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Martyn Knowles, Editor

Email martyn.knowles@kelsey.co.uk Follow us on Facebook @ Car Mechanics

MINI maintenance

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MINIs of the BMW sort seem to come my way from various sources. I do own six of them and I really must get one or two ready for sale next year – I can’t keep them all. The 2001-2006 R50 models are my favourites, but the R56 hatch is the one I’ve worked on recently – owned by a young lad who asked me to service his Cooper model and take it for its annual MOT. No problem!

Mannol engine oil is cheap on eBay. Very cheap in fact, at £16.50 for five litres (delivered to the door). I ventured down to my local ECP for a Mann oil filter. The job was done easily enough, raising the front wheels up on my plastic ramps. However, the owner had mentioned that the handbrake light was flickering every now and then. That usually means the rear pads are worn and sure enough after raising the rear of the MINI and taking off one of the back wheels, I could see the friction material was low.

My next move was to purchase a set of pads and discs. Now, the fun started. I couldn’t find my wind-back tool set. Had I lent it to someone?

Dropping into my preferred local garage the next day, I asked them if I could borrow a parking space outside to perform the MINI rear brake job there – so one, I can use their wind-back tool and two, if I needed any help they were on standby. I hadn’t considered the banter I would receive from my lack of ‘quickness’ in completing the brake job, but for me I didn’t need to rush. I’ll never be as fast as those pro mechanics that work on vehicles day in, day out.

Anyway, the main concern was the caliper piston – was it seized or would the wind-back tool get it moving? It was hard going and the tool digs into your hand. Fifteen minutes later, the offside caliper piston was back as far as it would go. Something I was aware of before

starting – the offside caliper has a wear sensor clipped onto the inner pad. You have to pull it out. Except, usually, it just snaps and is then unusable, which was the case here. The carrier shims were in a bad way too. One of them broke in half.

This is where the garage came in handy – I got them to order new shims and a pad wear sensor from one of their suppliers –the parts arrived within the hour.

As you can see the owner of the MINI had his monies worth out of those pads. In fact, the discs, I believe, were the originals from 2008.

The nearside caliper wound back a little easier but was still hard going and the job was completed after dropping it back on the ground, by operating the foot pedal a few times and then the handbrake. All good. Except the handbrake light was still illuminating.

The garage’s diagnostics tablet was plugged into the MINI, except it would not clear the handbrake wear sensor fault. The procedure is to use the onboard indicator stalk, running through the computer menu until to you get to ‘set/info’. The problem with this MINI was that the rev counter display for warnings (like overheating, low oil, etc)

doesn’t work. If it did, the handbrake symbol would be showing. Without any indication of what I was resetting, I just reset everything! Yes, that did the trick – the handbrake/pad low warning light extinguished after releasing the handbrake lever. Job done.

Or so I thought... the MINI failed the MOT on the fast idle emissions test. That’s another story for another time, where the original catalytic converter is swapped for a BM Catalysts replacement – a forthcoming feature in CM.

INSTANT EXPERT

Since the motorcar was invented, aftermarket companies have offered all sorts of potions, pledging to increase reliability and/or reduce running costs. Some of them delivered on their promises; others fell notably short. Yet, it would be unfair to judge additives used by our forebears as totally useless. Some of them were necessary, so much so that separate dispensers at petrol forecourts used to be popular. These upper cylinder lubricants reached the areas that oil alone could not and helped discourage carbon build. Refinements in engine design particularly rendered such additives redundant – or have they? The fact that additives have not just disappeared but have become more prolific indicates that their relevance has grown, rather than diminished.

Additives:

The modern significance

While modern power units are more fuel efficient, more powerful and cleaner than their ancestors, these advantages come at a cost. Reduced internal tolerances make them less tolerant to contaminations, which build as the vehicle ages. Furthermore, cars have become considerably more complicated, particularly with the proliferation of exhaust emission after-treatment systems. For these reasons, inhibiting and removing contamination build is the main aim of automotive additives.

One would expect manufacturers to endorse additives openly; but they do not. An explanation may be purely brand protection. As regular readers appreciate, taking carmakers’ advice is not always in our best interests, especially where

maintenance intervals are concerned. Experienced DIYers are, quite justifiably, suspicious of the official recommended engine oil change rates that tend to be too long, especially for sealed-for-life lubricants that are used in transmissions. Of course, CM readers’ definitions of what constitutes ‘life’ is likely to be more ambitious than that of car manufacturers, one of which revealed to us that it was seven years – a figure that is well below the current average car age in the UK.

Of course, additive manufacturers are vying for your hard-earned cash, which would make some readers suspicious of them. We should also consider that additives do not have to fulfil any formal technical specifications – unlike manufacturer-approved lubricants, for instance. While this fact might explain car manufacturers’ caution, it also means that you should buy with care.

ADDITIVE TYPES

In today’s cost-conscious times, supplementary additives promise means of cutting motoring costs but Rob Marshall studies whether you should dismiss them, or not.

 Additives of all varieties can be split into two categories. First, those that promise enhanced running, be that power/fuel efficiency advantages, or preventative maintenance. The second type is geared towards solving a problem, offering a faster-acting solution to rectify a fault, instead of extensive dismantling and/or component replacement. As with any product, decide on your aim, first.

Modern engines bring new problems and quality additive manufacturers are rising to the challenges.

Older cars relied on upper cylinder lubricants for optimum engine life. Regular use of fuel system cleaners helped to remove residues left behind by evaporated petrol.

CONTAMINATION  WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?

 The 2019 World Fuel Charter says: “The conformity of modern engines with their specified performance in terms of power, fuel consumption and emissions over time will depend largely on the cleanliness of their injectors”.

Contamination, therefore, is the antithesis of economical and reliable motoring. These undesirable deposits sap power, waste fuel and reduce mechanical life. Yet, fuel injectors are not the only affected components. Ironically, the need to make exhaust emissions cleaner has led to modern engines becoming dirtier internally, one reason for which is that they are forced to ingest and treat their own excreta.

Pour-in fuel additives

The most consumer-friendly types are those that are poured into the tank. Many additive companies report that these products are their best sellers and demand has risen in recent years. This has not been down to clever marketing alone but valid technical reasons. Changes to petrol and diesel formulations have made them more prone to leaving post-combustion deposits behind. These alterations have been made not just for environmental reasons, such as reducing the emissions of Volatile Organic Compounds and increasing the bio-fuel content, but also to ensure as much fuel is cracked as possible from each barrel of crude oil. Further complications with these blends include lower lubricity and a greater tendency to absorb moisture.

As these contaminations continue to build as the vehicle ages, engine efficiency drops. In turn, this accelerates deposit build until a failure occurs, or an engine Management Indicator Lamp illuminates. Further consequences of contamination build include higher emissions and fuel consumption, lower performance and even an increase in noise levels. Many additive manufacturers, therefore, have focussed their efforts on identifying, loosening and removing accumulated contamination, while discouraging future build. Using a decent additive correctly and in the appropriate situations can help reduce fuel costs and repair bills.

Therefore, fuel system cleaner additives are formulated to perform many functions and a huge variety of products are available at varying price points. Some types optimise the fuel, by enhancing its lubrication qualities and increasing the octane (petrol), or cetane (diesel) ratings. Others focus more on reducing oxidation/ ageing rates, ie. the speed at which the fuel reacts with the air and deteriorates. All these benefits should result in cleaner combustion. Additives can perform these tasks only to the fuel to which they are added. However, products that focus on cleaning should also soften existing carbon deposits and, in the case of diesel especially, help to kill microbe growth that can clog fuel lines.

Products advertised as fuel injector cleaners focus more on cleaning these delicate parts, thus avoiding the need for

Additive value

 Lucas Oil’s ‘Core 4’ is a good option for first-time additive users. It features four of the US oil and lubricant manufacturer’s best-selling products: Transmission Fix

Power Steering Stop Leak

Upper Cylinder Lubricant (UCL)

Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer

Transmission Fix smooths out problems, such as worn bands, leaking seals and high operating temperatures.

Power Steering Stop Leak does what it says.

UCL is the fuel additive solution for borderline diesel/petrol engine emission test failures.

Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer fortifies engine oils and protects against dry starts by leaving a thin protective coating on all moving parts.

relatively expensive and inconvenient removal and specialist ultrasonic cleaning. Yet, even this additive class is fragmenting. As gasoline direct injection (GDI) offers lower fuel consumption and CO2 emissions, compared to the earlier port/indirect petrol injection designs, where the injector was placed within the inlet manifold behind the valves, it has created other issues. As these fuel injectors are relocated within the combustion chamber, they are exposed to not only the heat but also the byproducts of the combustion process,

Overdosing additives can cause major problems, especially with DPF regeneration fuel additives that are added into the tank.

Power Steering fluid is subjected to very high pressures and heat. It degrades rapidly and cannot protect the pump gears and the seals. Some additives are available to support the fluid but buy with care. In addition, choose a decent quality fluid. Industry tests, such as ASTM D6186 (Oxidation Induction Time of Lubricating Oils by Pressure Differential Scanning Calorimetry), will validate which power steering fluids are up to the job.

Like those used in engine oil, flushes are beneficial for the cooling system too –helping remove scale and boost efficiency.

TYPES OF CONTAMINATION

 Combustion produces deposits that accumulate within the engine and its intake/exhaust systems as the years pass and mileages rise. They tend to comprise:

1. Sludge. Most readers will be familiar with this soft, black deposit (as pictured), especially as it can build most obviously within the valve covers. Within the engine, sludge results mainly from oil oxidisation, caused by neglected oil changes, higher temperatures and/or further contamination from moisture, coolant, or fuel.

Decide on your aims, before purchasing any additive.

2. Varnishes/lacquers. Like sludge, both contaminations result from oil (or fuel) oxidisation. Yet, they become baked to the surface and can be extremely stubborn to remove. Lacquer is a harder deposit than varnish but both strike not the engine but also fuel injectors, especially direct injection types that are exposed to the combustion process.

3. Soot/carbon. Known otherwise as ‘particulates’, these acidic carbon deposits are caused by imperfect combustion. Ironically, Gasoline Direct Injection (GDI) petrol engines produce more soot than earlier port-injection designs. Exhaust Gas Recirculation systems reduce in-cylinder temperatures to kerb NOx emissions, but they also raise soot emissions. On diesels, the soot is captured by the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and, on more recent petrol engines, by the Gasoline Particulate Filter (GPF). A major task of engine oil is to keep soot particles in suspension and stop them from forming lumps and causing blockages.

causing contaminations to become baked to the injector tip. This restricts the injectors’ fine nozzles, each of which possesses a smaller diameter than human hair, which alters the delicate spray pattern. Thankfully, sophisticated engine management will compensate for this injector fouling, by adjusting the fuel trim automatically but only to an extent. Once the long-term fuel trim deviates beyond a typical 25% from its standard setting, the engine malfunction indicator lamp is likely to illuminate –an instant MOT failure issue on most modern cars.

JLM Lubricants reports that additive technologies and means of testing them must keep up with engine development. When the company tested its GDIspecific injector cleaner at the Millbrook Proving Ground in Bedfordshire, it found that fuel consumption was reduced by 4% and deposit levels within the intake

manifold and behind the inlet valves did not increase.

While detergents are vital to clean varnishes and gums from pistons and injectors, one has to consider that some of these fuel additives end up in the engine oil, because a small quantity of exhaust gases bypass the piston rings. BG Products reports that, if the product used contains unstable cleansing chemicals, they can reduce engine oil life and increase the risk of sludge build. Interestingly, the Worldwide Fuel Charter warns against cheap fuel additives specifically, because they can leave extra deposits behind. Therefore, when looking at fuel additives that perform cleaning functions, check for ingredients that are effective against promoting additional deposits, such as PEA (polyether amine).

Some fuel additives are more bespoke. For classic cars, the advantages of fuel additives that combat valve seat recession

are a priority for cars with iron cylinderheads, especially. While the absence of lead in today’s petrol blends is not an issue for modern vehicles, last year’s increase in ethanol levels in petrol (up to 10% for 95RON) creates several complications. While corrosion is not so much of a problem for most post-2010 cars, E10 oxidises relatively quickly and a car running on fuel that has ‘gone off’ will not run at its optimum and the fuel will promote extra deposit build. Supplementary additives are designed to counteract the downsides of ethanol-laced petrol and help the fuel to last longer. They are ideal for low-mileage users, or those using plug-in hybrids mainly in electric-only mode. LIQUI MOLY, for instance, reports that its Fuel Protect additive is useful to combat the water-absorption qualities of modern ethanol-laced petrol, because it binds the water in the petrol, in addition to its corrosion protection benefits.

 Establishing whether additives work depends largely on the result you desire. Your expectations should also be reasonable. An additive that helps rejuvenate the active surfaces of a catalytic converter, for instance, cannot be expected to repair a smashed monolith. Similarly, an Exhaust Gas Recirculation carbon cleaner spray cannot repair an EGR valve with a head that has separated from its stem.

While additives are still subject to basic consumer rights law, their formulations are set by their manufacturers, which consider not just their effectiveness but also user safety and, of course, price.

Independent testing is involved, lengthy, costly and likely to be inconclusive. Therefore, after deciding your aims, research the available products. Those from a well-known brand, supplied by trustworthy outlets, are more likely to meet their claims than spurious alternatives, sourced from unknown sellers’ shops on marketplace websites. Products, aimed at garages, can be a good quality indicator, because the motor trade will ditch products quickly, if they are found to be ineffective. Conduct your research carefully and be prepared to ask the additive manufacturer questions. Be suspicious of any company that points solely to its hundreds/thousands of ‘satisfied’ customers on online review sites as justification for its product’s efficacy, instead of technical evidence.

Fuel additives for the MOT

While using additives to clean fuel injectors and keep fuel fresh for as long as possible will help to suppress exhaust emissions, you may look to additives as a relatively inexpensive means of bringing a borderline MOT emissions failure back from the brink. Should the tester think that a petrol engine’s catalytic converter is not working as it should, consider that its honeycomb-like monolith structure could be saturated with carbon, so its previous metal catalysts cannot react with the exhaust gases. Some additives, such as that promoted by Cataclean, are dosed into the fuel, pass through the engine and the resultant post-combustion vapours eradicate the contamination build, restoring the converter’s efficiency levels.

The range of fuel additives for diesel particulate filters (DPF), however, is more complex. For the uninitiated, these units are soot traps, built within the exhaust system, that capture and vaporise carbon particulates under high temperatures, preventing them from being expelled into the atmosphere, using a process called ‘regeneration’. Unfortunately, DPFs can become overwhelmed with soot, caused mainly by low speeds, short distances, or a fault, such as a split turbocharger hose. Yet, should a DPF-related fascia lamp appear, consider whether there is a fault at all. Many cars display a dashboard light (or message) that warns of a potential problem, which can be resolved by driving the car at a consistent higher speed, until the lamp extinguishes. This gives the DPF sufficient time and temperatures to complete the automatic regeneration process. This advice should not be ignored.

Some technically-minded owners reckon that a DPF blockage can be solved with brief full-throttle applications and high engine speeds. Alternatively, some experienced DIYers (and garages)

resort to ‘forced generations’, where a DPF cleaning programme is enacted diagnostically with the car stationary. Based in Ashington, Northumberland, the DPF Doctor network head, Darren Darling, reports that these techniques invite further mechanical damage; far preferable are mechanically-sympathetic, gentler methods.

Additives have a vital role to play in this kinder approach. The most widespread types of DPF fuel additive are regeneration aids. JLM Lubricants reports that additive formulations must evolve, as chemical technology advances. While its ‘Regen Plus’ additive reduces the temperature at which the soot within the DPF burns, the company has reformulated it, by replacing its iron ingredient with cerium. Aside from being more effective, the main advantages include making DPF damage less likely, should it be overdosed slightly.

When poured into the diesel tank, the active additive constituents survive the combustion process, enter the DPF and permit the soot to vapourise at a lower

temperature. Yet, Mr Darling reports that these products can cause more harm than good, if used incorrectly. Presuming that more additive means a faster and superior result, some car owners do not follow the instructions and over-dose the fuel tank deliberately. While the soot is burnt, the DPF internals overheat and collapse. Last August, for instance, the DPF Doctor network reported over 200 DPF blockages, caused not by soot but disintegrated internals. In severe cases, the DPF outer casing can melt, causing red hot particles to drop onto the ground, creating a fire risk.

Therefore, when considering a fuel additive to facilitate DPF regeneration, determine what you are trying to achieve and read the instructions carefully. To work properly, the procedure may not be as straightforward as adding a bottle of additive to a tank of diesel and driving off. Should the DPF become overloaded with soot, it may be too late to use a regeneration additive, because of the overheating risk. Professional on-car cleaning methods may involve injecting different additives into the DPF directly, via the hollow pressure differential tubes, which soften and dissolve carbon within the DPF. Yet, even garages must monitor DPF temperatures during this operation. Powerflow Ltd, for instance, which distributes the North American BG Products range of additives to the UK, reports that it supplies professional DPF cleaning machines only to technicians that employ DPF temperature monitoring equipment throughout the cleaning procedure. Therefore, when taking your car to a garage with a DPF blockage, provide the technician with as many truthful details as possible, including any DPF additives that you have dosed into the tank, from where you fill with fuel, your driving patterns and when the vehicle was serviced last.

ROB’S

TOP TIP

 Fuel injectors are precision parts and must be kept clean. Direct Injection (including petrol GDI) engines work at very high pressures within hostile environments and are highly sensitive to any deviation in fuel atomisation, which can result from contamination deposits. Image courtesy of Delphi

 Should the fuel tank not be replenished at least once every fortnight, consider using an additive that extends fuel life. These include fuel system driers and those that assist with biofuel degradation.

While modern fuel additives cannot be poured directly into the intake, such as that pictured earlier on an older carburettor car, some additives that are designed more for professional use can be dosed directly into the fuel filter housing. However, ensure the product you use is designed to be used at such a high concentration, without causing harm.

ONBOARD FUEL ADDITIVES

 Aside from some LPG converted cars being fitted with an automatic dosing system that dispenses a valve-seat protector additive, the most common automated fuel additive system is equipped to certain diesels, to reduce the temperatures at which soot particulates burn within the DPF. This not only makes the system less prone to blocking but it gives manufacturers freedom to mount the DPF further away from the hot engine.

The system comprises a separate tank that tends to be situated adjacent to the diesel tank beneath the car (pictured). Alternatively, a replaceable pouch may be used instead. These contain a fuel additive (the trade name of which is ‘Eolys’) that is dispensed into the fuel tank, soon after the diesel is topped-up. The quantity is assessed by a separate additive ECU that relies on inputs from the fuel level and fuel cap presence sensors. Just like the DPF regeneration additives mentioned within this feature already, Eolys works by surviving the combustion process and coating the resultant soot with a coating that burns at a lower temperature. When these enveloped particulates enter the DPF, the coating burns first and the resultant temperature rise vapourises the soot.

The system is surprisingly reliable but most issues occur when the additive needs replenishing. While the driver is warned by a dashboard message about the additive level running low, consider that most (if not all) systems especially do not possess an additive level sensor. Instead, the quantity of additive dispensed is measured and these counters require resetting diagnostically after the tank is replenished. Where fitted, additive pouches can be bought and refitted fairly easily but filling the tank is more involved.

While not refilling the additive tank, or doing so with diesel, is certain to promote a future DPF soot blockage, we have been made aware of ‘fake’ aftermarket additives being offered to both the public and the motor trade.

CDTi (the maker of PatFluid, an aftermarket alternative to Eolys branded additives) has become aware of such products being offered at very low prices. To find out more, the company submitted them to an external laboratory to evaluate how much active material they contain that permits them to work. Compared to the Original Equipment additives and PatFluid, the results showed that some of them contained less than half of the active material. Worryingly, many of them contained fewer than 90% of these essential ingredients. CDTi told CM that these low levels mean that they are unlikely to work effectively at all.

A method used by professional workshops is to plumb a dedicated additive dosing machine into the fuel filter inlet and outlets using a set of adapters, thus isolating the fuel system from the fuel tank. Pictured is an arrangement used by Terraclean.

 Modern cars suffer from intake manifold contamination, especially those with direct injection. The amount of contamination is not always obvious, because the fuel injection system will adjust the fuel trim to compensate but efficiency will be compromised. To save extensive dismantling, you can try to remove and inspect an intake sensor. This temperature sensor on this diesel is contaminated with a gungy mixture of oil and soot, emanating from both the crankcase ventilation and exhaust gas recirculation systems.

 Some additive aerosols are designed to be sprayed into the inlet with the engine running. Follow the instructions carefully. It is a slow process, because the product must be applied in short bursts, so it does not accumulate, ‘pool’ and cause an excessive quantity to enter as a liquid, rather than in an atomised form.

Look

You may decide to clean the MAF sensor but use a suitable product that is designed for the purpose, as some intake cleaner aerosols can leave a residue behind that could prevent it from working properly afterwards.

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Various EGR cleaning methods are available, some of which require the engine running. Generally, EGR valves can be considered worn out, once they have covered around 80,000 miles and so do not waste time cleaning one. Renew it instead.

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EGR coolers can also block with soot. Again, various on and off-car additives are available to loosen and remove the carbon. Should you notice a falling coolant level, check that this heat exchanger is not responsible. It is easy to confuse EGR cooler failure with that of the engine head gasket.

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If you can scrape out sludge with a finger, consider not using additives. Instead, it may be simpler, quicker and cheaper to remove the inlet manifold and ask a garage to soak it in its parts wash overnight. The manifold must be completely dry internally before refitting. Always fit new gaskets.

 Before fitting the manifold, you may wish to clean the intake ports, using the EGR/inlet additive spray and a lintfree cloth, and/or an old toothbrush. Use the product sparingly and allow sufficient time for it to evaporate.

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On diesels, you may decide to spray an intake cleaner through the EGR pipe aperture on the manifold. Again, follow any instructions carefully and consider that spraying intake additives into the engine can be performed as an annual maintenance procedure, prior to an oil change, not solely in the event of a fault.

Engine oil additives

Perhaps the most popular additive that DIYers consider is engine oil flush. This is dosed into the engine oil, just before draining the sump, to dissolve any accumulated contaminations and hold them in suspension, so they flow out after the sump plug is unscrewed. Some car owners worry that a flush will dislodge larger deposits and cause blockages. They have a point. Though, this situation tends to be caused by solvent-based flush products that dominate the UK market. Therefore,

 Some professional garages employ inlet manifold machines that use various cleaning additives that pass through the manifold and into the engine, as it runs at idling speeds.

 A major problem with direct injection vehicles is contamination build restricting not just the air supply but also valve movements. Direct injection petrol (GDI) cars suffer more from this latter problem, owing to the higher temperatures baking the sooty and oily sludge into a harder, rubbery deposit.

 Intake cleaning additives seem not to be sufficiently strong to loosen and remove this deposit. So far, the main accepted way of dealing with the problem is to use specialist equipment to inject crushed walnut shells under pressure into the cylinder-head intake port, with the valves closed.

 The loosened deposits are then vacuumed out, along with the walnut shells. If paying to have this work done, do not forget to have the intake manifold and EGR systems cleaned, too.

seek out a solvent-free flush, which is also more likely not to degrade oil seals.

In addition, check the Safety Data Sheet and ensure that the “Flash Point” ASTM D-93 is at 50°C, or below. This will reassure you that any oil flush product that remains in the sump will evaporate out of the new oil and not contaminate it.

Should you own a GDI car, consider that the low-tension piston rings, which are designed to reduce internal friction, can become gummed with deposits surprisingly early in the car’s life. This reduces compression, leading to inefficient combustion and increased crankcase blow-

by, all of which increase contamination build at the top and bottom of the engine. A further issue is the engine oil being tainted with fuel, leading to increased oxidisation and sludging risks. A good quality oil flush helps to remove these deposits and restore the rings’ compliance and sealing qualities.

Oil fortifiers

The Verification of Lubrication Specifications (VLS), the independent British organisation that checks whether, or not, the claims made by lubricants are true, warns that the smallest change in the formulation can have a real impact on the performance of the oil. It highlights to CM readers that,

“Aftermarket engine oil additives risk interfering with the lubricant’s ability to cool, clean, protect moving parts and emission control devices, which could result in unnecessary expense to customers”

LIQUI MOLY, however, produces both engine lubricants and additives and it reassures users that:

Some additives treat bespoke problems. This Revive Turbo Cleaner product, for instance, is designed to address sticking turbocharger variable vane geometry parts.

“Our additives are fully compatible with every common engine oil. If applied correctly, our additives cannot negatively affect the chemistry of the engine oil. As there are no standards for additives, it might be that products from competitors interfere with the formulation of the oil but definitely not ours.”

Perhaps unsurprisingly, additive companies insist that their fortifying products enhance the oil’s protective qualities. Yet, perhaps we should consider that oil blenders could formulate superior oil but, to do so, they would have to raise prices. BG Products reasons that several aspects of engine oil performance can be improved beyond current standards and highlights its balanced package of additives that do just that.

We should also consider that oils suffer a premature increase in viscosity and contamination, when exposed to extreme conditions. Such situations include high temperatures, long periods of idling/stop-start driving, and multiple cold runs. In these cases, dosing specific additives into the lubricant, such as antioxidants, acid neutralisers, detergents, and anti-wear metal protectors will enhance the oil’s life, hypothetically.

Before buying any oil fortifier, BG Products recommends that it should be evaluated to see whether it benefits the lubricant, or ruins it, because of a reckless addition of disproportionate, or low-quality ingredients. For instance, a hot topic in classic car circles is ZDDP, an anti-wear additive that is not so prolific in modern car engine oils, due to the damage it wreaks on catalytic converters. One might think that adding more ZDDP as possible to oil is ideal, but this stance may be counterproductive, by causing the oil to sludge.

BG Products highlights that its Advanced Formula MOA and Diesel Oil

Conditioner additives contain fortifiers that are well-researched, with solid science behind them to prove that they enhance the engine oil’s performance, without upsetting its chemical stability.

JLM Lubricants states that its Bortec oil additive raises the stock lubricant’s protective qualities, while neither interfering with the engine lubricant’s basic chemistry, nor clogging the oil filter. However, rather than relying on ingredients used by its competitors, such as molybdenum disulphide, JLM Lubricants has chosen boron nitrate, which can tolerate temperatures three

times higher than those more traditional additives, without sacrificing its protective qualities significantly. The additive also ‘clings’ to metallic surfaces, permitting extra protection on coldstarts, as the oil pressure builds. This is especially relevant, because most engine wear occurs on start-up. LIQUI MOLY has chosen a slightly different direction with its Cera Tec additive, which utilises ceramic particles. Tests performed for the company at the automotive engine test centre, APL in Germany, showed that engine oil wear protection rates double, when fortified with Cera Tec.

LIQUI MOLY anti-wear additives range starts with physical protection (Oil Additiv), which utilises molybdenum disulphide particles that adhere to the metal surfaces. Should physical protection not be desired, Motor Protect offers a chemical alternative that uses friction modifiers to smooth the metal surfaces. Combining the two technologies is the aforementioned Cera Tec that employs ceramic particles for its solid lubricant instead of molybdenum disulphide.

Naturally, you can select engine oil additives to fulfil a specific purpose. On engines that are prone to emitting a brief mechanical rattling after a cold start, one might wish to consider an additive that will address this oil starvation issue. Many people report positive experiences using Lucas Oil’s Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer on engines with a tendency for slow oil pressure build but the original formulation is too ‘thick’ for modern engines. Fortunately, the company has responded with a lowviscosity alternative for current models.

Minor oil leaks can be cured with a seal-swell additive, apart from those

It is not always easy for companies to test products, even independently. To prove that its K-seal could seal holes that could empty a cooling system in around 20 minutes, Kalimex sought to prove compliance with ASTM D-3147. Yet, with no test facilities in the UK, or North America, the company had to engage Brighton University to build a test rig. The result proved K-seal’s compliance.

Should you suspect severe contamination, consider that physical removal and cleaning may be the only option. This engine sump pan contained several centimetres of congealed sludge within its base.

LIQUI MOLY's DPF Protector is added before filling the tank with new fuel. Add every 1000 miles, or so. It is useful especially for vehicles that are used for short tips or city driving.

ROB’S TOP TIP

filter cleaning

Adblue is a distilled water/urea additive, which is vital on Euro VI diesel cars. It is not a fuel additive but is dispensed into a separate tank, from where it is injected into the exhaust system, when required. Never use AdBlue that has reached its expiration date and never overfill the tank. In some cars, this damages the additive ECU. This tank shows AdBlue overflow, evident by the white crystals.

caused by physical damage, such as a punctured seal. However, this product will act on all rubber components indiscriminately, such as valve stem oil seals. This is one reason, why engine seal-swell additives must never be used in automatic, or dual-clutch automated manual gearboxes, because they will swell all of the hydraulic seals as well. Several additives exist to help prolong

a highly worn engine, many of which thicken the oil to help enhance oil pressure. Such additives should be used with care and with consideration about whether the additive will help to cure the issue(s) experienced, such as excessive crankcase pressures. Whichever engine oil additive you choose, ensure that it will not increase deposits within the catalytic converter, or DPF.

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With constant attention being paid to air quality and emissions control, the need for a clean diesel particulate filter (DPF) has never been higher, says decarbonisation expert TerraClean.

Staying on top of maintaining the DPF can prevent longer-term issues arising, such as turbocharger failure, caused by increased back pressure, and failure of the MOT on emissions. Cleaning blockages of soot from the DPF is also far cheaper than a full replacement.

With 500 service centres across the UK, TerraClean provides a unique decarbonisation technology to reduce vehicle emissions and fuel consumption and improve performance.

To find your nearest centre, visit www.terraclean.co.uk

PROFESSIONAL vs RETAIL PRODUCTS

 You may discover additives from the same brand being marketed to car owners in retail shops that differ from those being offered to the motor trade. The most obvious difference is the labelling. Consumer product labels tend to be more informative for the average car owner and the additive is less likely to result in damage, if used incorrectly. For example, pouring a consumer-grade petrol fuel injector cleaner into a diesel fuel tank is unlikely to cause serious harm. This may not be the case with a professional product.

Products that are used by garages may be quicker acting because, in an environment where time is money, fast results are needed. This means that the formulations are either different to the retail alternative, or more concentrated. However, professional products tend to be less user-friendly to handle and the consequences of overdosing, for instance, could be more serious.

TerraClean urges the need for diesel particulate

Do not use additives as a substitute for regular maintenance.

COLUMN Peter Simpson

 These days, a lot of information which has previously been charged for can be found free online. Sometimes, though, things online aren’t quite what they seem, and a ‘service’ which you think is free turns out not to be. Usually, you are alerted to this at a late stage when you are asked to enter card details. However, a CM reader recently alerted me to one which doesn’t work this way. The site is called carrate.co.uk and it provides car valuations.

To provide a bit of context here, a number of firms do this. Probably the best-known is Parkers, whose website provides a basic price-range valuation free or for £4.99 a range of prices taking into account mileage, optional extras where they affect value, plus three separate figures for dealer, private sale and part-exchange price. What’s more, that £4.99 gives you 24 hours access and you can look up as many valuations as you like in that time. And for £9.99 you get a month’s access. There are other services too offering similar value, and of course if you’re sneaky you can get a pretty fair idea of a car’s trade value by looking at similar cars listed by auctions, many of which include trade prices.

Carrate.co.uk is different. The front page simply says: ‘Get a valuation in seconds’ with a British numberplate input area underneath and a click-box to continue, with ten lines of tiny small-print under that, and a tick-box to the side. This box is already ticked, so to not accept the terms you need to untick it – but when I tried, unticking the box seemed to make no difference and I still get through to the next stage. In any case, small print is, of course, the sort of thing that people don’t generally bother reading. This one, though, needs reading, because buried within the small print are the words “The service costs 70 GBP”.

Yep, you read that right – getting just one vehicle valuation from this company will cost you £70 – though because they write it as 70 GBP it probably isn’t as obvious in the skim-read which is the most that anyone generally does with T&Cs. You also don’t pay by card beforehand (which, of course, would make buyers fully aware of the cost); rather, the valuation, is accompanied by an invoice which you are expected to pay, by transferring money to a stated bank account, within 14 days – or you get charged an extra £20. And if you don’t pay within 30 days, the matter is referred to “an appropriate debt collection institution.” How this aspect actually pans out I don’t know, because I didn’t take it that far, though it’s possible that a legitimate debt collector could be used, though they should of course carry out due diligence first.

Where does the money go?

The bank account in question has the sort-code 23-14-70. This belongs to a firm called Wise (formerly known as Transferwise) who are an International banking operation that specialises in receiving money in different currencies. I stress here that Transferwise is totally legitimate and not in any way connected with any fraud that Carrate might be perpetuating. Using this does, though, mean that someone paying into the account has no idea who they are paying, or where in the world those funds will end up!

Clearly then, there does seem to be a case to answer, so I wanted to give Carrate a chance to defend themselves. Unfortunately, but perhaps unsurprisingly, I didn’t get very far with trying to contact them. I started by using the contact us section of the website – it wasn’t working. Then I tried the

email address; my message bounced straight back. With no listed phone number, I needed to investigate further. So, I googled the British address listed – Lavender Hill, London. This turned out to be short-term rented office space, and a place that’s used by a mail forwarding company. I tried the company name Quotient Int Ltd, and it is claimed to be registered in Ireland – which of course would put it outside the jurisdiction of the British courts. However, even that may not be right, as a search of Ireland’s Companies Registration Office showed no company with that name. Like the London one, the Irish address given also appears to be accommodation-office type premises.

All very odd. No, not odd actually. I’ll go as far as to say that the whole thing seems to be an extremely clever ploy to con people into accepting a service without being aware of the ludicrously high cost of it. I say that’s a scam. And an extremely nasty one. A lot of people who receive a bill of this kind probably won’t pay. Some, though, probably will, just to close the matter. And if only four or five people a day decide paying £70 is better than fighting, those behind Carrate are earning the equivalent over £100,000 a year…

So, what do we learn from all this? The first one is obvious. Do not use this service unless you are happy to pay £70 for a single car price, when just £4.99 will buy you as many as you want in 24 hours. Secondly, always look at the small print, especially when dealing with a business you haven’t used before. And if you have been ‘caught out’ by this and received an invoice, my recommendation would be to refuse to pay. You may get chased by ‘debt collectors’, and they can get a bit scary sometimes. However, no-one will be knocking on your door in respect of a £70/£90 debt – it just isn’t worth their while. And while many Debt Collectors do misrepresent what they can and cannot do, until a claim has been proved in court, all they can actually do is ask you to pay or, if you don’t, report back to their client that they have failed and “recommend” legal action. And what chance, realistically, do you think there is of a claim like this even getting that far, let alone being won?

Tales from the workshop

VOLKSWAGEN CADDY

Common-rail warning

 Whilst carrying out an injector replacement on this 2016 VW Caddy 1.6 TDI, I was reminded that I have heard of some owners still trying to test for an ineffective injector by slackening off the pipe to release the pressure to a single injector. Whilst this was a common practice and a great way to test an injector on an older diesel engine – this is something which should not be carried out on a modern common-rail system.

The injector pipes look accessible, and it may be tempting to slacken them off to carry out an old style test, but this should never be done on a common-rail diesel.

The pressures used in the common-rail system are around 2000 Bar/29,000psi, that is enough to cut through metal when directed correctly, but would certainly cut through skin forcing diesel fuel into the blood system.

Whenever working on the diesel injection system on a common-rail engine, it is imperative that the engine is allowed to stand for ten-fifteen minutes before slackening off any pipes to allow the pressure to abate before beginning any work.

As all the injectors are fed by the common-rail system, releasing the pipe to one injector would release the pressure in the complete system and so would be an ineffective way to test a single injector.

Misfire misery

 The owner of this little Abarth 500 1.4 took great pride in his vehicle and was upset if anyone called it a Fiat. A mistake I always avoided when he came in.

His latest visit was to ask if I could see why the motor was running a little sluggish, Plugging in my scanner I hid it from his view when I selected Fiat from the list, and then showed him the code I had of P1003 indicating a misfire on cylinder 3.

The motor was regularly serviced, and I knew the spark plugs were not that old and so I suspected that the coil pack may be at fault, but to confirm I swapped over the coil packs on cylinders two and three, before starting up again. This time I got code P1002 which was enough evidence to confirm the coil pack was the source of the trouble.

After a discussion with the owner, he was quite happy for all four to be replaced, saving any future troubles, and so a new set was ordered up and fitted, smoothing out the little Fiat Abarth.

The coil packs are easily accessed and swapping them round was a quick and easy test to ensure it was the coil pack at fault.

NISSAN KUBISTAR

Long way round

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The job time given to replace the starter motor on this 2008 Nissan Kubistar 1.5 dCi was 1.7 hours. At first glance that appeared rather generous. With the Nissan up on the ramp, and looking up from below, the starter securing bolts looked readily accessible and the job looked quite easy.

Disconnecting the battery and then unbolting the starter, it then became obvious why the extra time was needed. Once released from the engine the starter had nowhere to go, it could not come out from above or from the back, and the only way to remove it was to first disconnect the suspension and slide the driveshaft out of place.

As the driveshaft sits on an external splined drive from the gearbox, this option does not allow the loss of any oil from the gearbox, and once the shaft is removed, there is ample space to remove and replace the starter.

Once the driveshaft had been removed, there was plenty of room to remove the starter motor from its space.

Fixing advice from our garage proprietor Steve Rothwell

ABARTH 500

Airbag removal is a little awkward

 This 2010 Fiat Fiorino 1.3 MultiJet was in for the indicator/wiper switch assembly to be replaced as the driver had managed to break the wiper arm when being a little heavy handed in operating it.

The airbag needed to be removed and then the steering wheel, to allow the switch assembly to be swapped over for the new unit.

On quite a range of the Fiat models, the airbag is released by using a screwdriver placed from the back of the steering wheel to release the fixing clips. If the airbag has never been off before, then it can sometimes be difficult to locate where the clips should be released from. This is because when manufactured the

FORD TRANSIT CONNECT

Getting hot

 With the temperature gauge rising the owner of this 2006 Ford Transit Connect 1.8 TD had checked the coolant several times and it was spot on, he had also carefully inspected the engine for any signs of a leak, and none had been found. So he spent his Saturday morning shopping for a new thermostat and engine coolant and then the rest of the day fitting the new parts.

steering wheel trim cover, does not have the access holes, and these need to be pierced when used for the first time.

This can be confusing and the thought of puncturing the cover of the steering wheel, can be off putting. Thankfully the holes are at the back of the steering wheel out of sight during normal driving, and the locations are easily found due to the small dimples at the point the cover needs to be pierced.

Once the cover is pierced, the screwdriver can be inserted releasing the airbag, to then allow its removal. Don’t forget to disconnect the battery around fifteen minutes before starting the job.

The impeller had become detached and was spinning freely instead of pumping the coolant around.

Cylinderhead bolt replacement

 Tightening down the cylinder-head correctly after a head gasket replacement or other work which has required the removal of the cylinder-head, is an important part of the job. Many engines now demand that a fairly low initial torque setting is used, followed by the tightening in degrees, to the final setting.

Because that initial torque setting is low, it is important that this is correct and not hampered by any undue friction from the threads. For this reason, and because new head bolts are normally recommended, I always take the opportunity, as on this 2002 Peugeot 206 1.6 engine, to ensure the threads in the block are properly cleaned out, by using one of the old head bolts with a slot cut down it.

This will clean any swarf or residue that may have entered the thread area when the cylinder block was cleaned. Any residue will be trapped in the slot, and then removed as the bolt is taken out. This bolt only needs to be wound in by hand to ensure that when the new head bolts are fitted, they have the best opportunity to reach the correct torque setting.

With the job completed and the tools tidied away he set off on a short journey to see if the work he had carried out had done the trick.

He was upset to see that the temperature gauge was still rising and thought he may have head gasket problems and so decided to book the van in with me to sort things out.

The symptoms were still suggesting thermostat, as the cooling system pressure wasn’t rising and the radiator was remaining cool, suggesting a lack of coolant flow.

The book time to replace the water pump on this engine is two hours, but I was willing to risk this time rather than just whip the cylinder head off. This proved a good move as when the pump was removed, I found that the impeller was no longer attached to the pump drive and was now spinning freely, this was preventing it from sending the coolant around the engine as it should.

Using one of the old head bolts with a saw cut along its length, makes a good tool to clean out the threads in the block.

FIAT FIORINO

The airbag needs to be released by pushing a screwdriver through the holes in the rear of the steering wheel, these are covered by the steering wheel trim and will need piercing the first time they are used.

MAZDA MX5

Mucky job

 This Mazda MX-5 was registered in 2003 – yet is actually 28 years old –having spent the first years of its life in its native Japan. There is no time recommendation for the timing belt replacement only a mileage span of 60,000 miles.

This Mazda had now done 160,000 miles and having only covered around 3000 miles a year for the last ten years and having no service history, the new owner decided that is would be prudent to get this done. Even though this is one of the few engines on which a broken camshaft drive belt normally does not cause piston to valve contact, an unwanted breakdown is still best avoided.

The job is given a book time of under two hours, but that didn’t take into account the amount of time needed to clean things off on this one.

Oil and muck are not good for the belt, and as much time was spent on the clean up as was on the belt replacement.

With the new belt fitted and a having had a good service, this Mazda will hopefully give its new owner a few more years of use to come.

FORD FOCUS

Lack of response

 The owner of this 2005 Ford Focus 1.8 diesel phoned to ask if I could have a look at her vehicle, as it wasn’t doing as it was told. I asked her to clarify a little and she said that when she pushed her foot down on the accelerator, the engine wasn’t revving up as it should.

I asked her to bring the Focus along so that I could have a look, and when she arrived I checked out the problem. I often hear convoluted explanations of the problem, and so it is always best to actually check it out myself. In the case of this Focus, I realised that the problem was a lack of response from the throttle pedal, and I suspected that the fault was going to be the throttle pedal itself.

This can be checked using a scanner and sure enough once my scanner was plugged in, I was able to confirm that a press of the throttle pedal did not always relay the necessary information to the ECU.

The new pedal is easily fitted and as this is quite a common problem, the pedal was readily available from our local factor for just under £120.

The throttle pedal was the source of the problems and being a simple plug and play unit, once the new one was plugged in, the motor was ready to go.

Timing belt time

 The original replacement interval for the timing belt on this 1.4 TDI VW Polo for vehicles built up to 2003 was 60,000 miles or four years, this was increased for 2004 onward models to 80,000 miles or four years.

This 2004 Polo had now covered 168,000 miles and the owner had decided that although it was less than the four years or the 80,000 miles, he wasn’t going to take a risk on the belt failing.

With a 2.2-hour book time for the job, the small investment was well worth the peace of mind that would be achieved by having the belt replaced.

This engine like the majority would suffer terminal damage if the timing belt broke whilst the engine was motoring along, and the expense of that occurring far outweighs the cost of the replacement belt and the slight inconvenience of having the motor off the road for a day.

I am always impressed by the fabric of the timing belts on these VW engines, they appear to be far stronger than most, and with a what is quite a low mileage replacement interval.

VOLKSWAGEN POLO

A good clean up was needed before fitting the new belt into place, ensuring that nothing would be left to contaminate the new belt.

Tales from the Workshop

Inner boot job

 It is quite common to come across an outer CV gaiter which has perished and split, and when you consider that the CV joint is continually moving and flexing the boot, this is not unexpected. The inner gaiter which just sits there spinning away but does not need to flex as much, normally lasting much longer.

The inner boot on this 2004 Vauxhall Corsa was the original and so after 18 years it should not have come as a surprise that the boot had failed.

There are a few different approaches to doing this job, but the easiest in my mind is to remove the inner boot clip, disconnect the driveshaft and then slide the shaft out of place leaving the outer part of the inner joint in the gearbox. This saves the worry of any oil loss or having to remove the joint from the gearbox.

It is then just a simple matter of removing the C-clip to slide the inner joint off allowing the boot to be replaced. The joint can then be cleaned and greased up, fitting the new boot and sliding it all back into place.

SUBARU IMPREZA

Oil leak problems

 Oil leaks are never good news, the oil is messy and has a habit of covering the engine and can often be difficult to find exactly where the leak is coming from. This 2004 Subaru Impreza 2.0 DOHC was no different and the coating of oil was pretty much covering every part of the nearside of the engine. The only certain thing was that the leak was from around the cam cover area.

The first move was to give the engine a good clean and of course this must be done with care to prevent water from getting in any of the electrical components – gone are the days when you could cover up the distributor and just blast the engine clean – a more considered approach is now needed.

The CV gaiter had perished by the securing clip and needed replacing – removing the inner section of joint from the shaft is my preferred method. New cam cover gasket and seals were fitted to both sides ensuring no further oil leaks would appear.

AUDI A4

Heavy fuel consumption

 With the cost of fuel now at over £1.60 a litre, more motorists are getting wise to the fact that regular maintenance will help improve the MPG figure and lower motoring costs.

This 2007 Audi A4 2.0 petrol had shown a marked rise in the speed that the fuel gauge was dropping, and the owner was intending to have a service quite soon in an attempt to help the efficiency of the engine.

This idea was sped up by the distinct smell of petrol that was beginning to surround the motor. At first he thought he may have spilt some when filling up, but as the smell was getting stronger and not dispersing, he realised that this was not the case.

With the Audi up on the ramp the source of the heavy fuel consumption and the pungent smell was quickly identified – there was a tiny pin hole in the fuel filter which was allowing the leak of the precious fluid.

Amazingly the petrol filter on the A4 does not appear to have a designated service interval, but as this one proves it does need changing occasionally.

Once cleaned off, the engine could be run up and then inspected for the leaking oil. This turned out to be from several points around the nearside cam cover, including the centre seals. Stripping off the camshaft cover is quite a quick job and replacing the rubber gasket set was easily done.

After a good wipe around, the cam cover was replaced with the new gaskets and then road tested to confirm that the leak had been fixed.

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VAUXHALL CORSA

The fuel filter had a tiny pin hole under the securing bracket and was allowing the precious liquid to leak out under the motor – not only expensive but potentially lethal.

The Devil 700 has electriccontrolled ignition, making it easy to start. Supplied complete with handle, regulator and gas hose. Despite the heater’s small size, the Little Devil II heater emits an exceptional 35,000 Btu per hour/10kW heat output, easily enough to warm small areas up to a comfortable temperature quickly and efficiently. It comes complete with a regulator and heavy-duty gas hose.

Project Fiat Panda 1.4 100HP Springing into action

With the worsening economic situation and the decrease in new car sales for various reasons, more and more folk are hanging onto their existing cars and spending out on repairs and maintenance. This means that garages are as busy as never before with booking times running into weeks: it was for this reason that I had to crack on with Fiat repairs myself, only getting my preferred local garage (Parkside Autos in Worksop) to find a half-day slot to replace the timing belt that you can read all about next month.

As it arrived, the Panda had various issues. Worst was the appalling noise of a dying wheel bearing – and in second place a bad vibration from the frontend that simple wheel balancing didn’t cure. In the end, a buckled wheel was discovered and moved to the back for a temporary fix. The steering felt a bit stiff and the handling slightly odd, and

a previous MOT advisory for ‘misting’ of the offside front shock absorber meant that it was indeed knackered.

Editor Knowles thought the brakes were a bit ‘wooden’, and upon inspection, we found that the driver’s side (offside) rear wheel bearing was absolutely goosed. So, a long list of bits was given to series sponsors GSF – discs and pads all-round, front struts, top mounts, rear dampers and the usual filters, plugs and so on.

Strut one's stuff

However, the front struts proved elusive, and it seems that 100HP ones are Fiatonly and in the region of £400 a pair. Stuff that. Undoubtedly stiffer than a regular Panda, there had to be a way around this. I looked through various damper manufacturer catalogues, crossreferenced and found that both Monroe and GSF list the 1.3 Multijet diesel struts as the same part number. So, my

FRONT DISCS & PADS

 The front discs didn’t look that bad, but we replaced them anyway as they are pretty cheap. Start with the 13mm bolts that secure the caliper to the support bracket slider pins. These do not need holding with a spanner. Hang the caliper up on some wire on removal.  Use a decent sized flat-bladed screwdriver to gradually force the caliper across in order to push the piston back into the caliper housing. Ours moved easily, meaning that the piston wasn’t seized. On well-worn pads, keep any eye on the brake fluid level in the reservoir to avoid spillage.

local GSF in Sheffield had a pair of their Amtex equivalents in stock and on a ‘suck it and see’ basis. And yes, they are spot on. GSF part numbers AEX473319 and AEX473320 are the ones we used –and at 50 quid a side, are cheap enough. We fitted new top mounts as well – part number DTSBSH0463C.

The rest of the jobs were easy enough given the age of the car and inevitable rusty bolts – but compared to the previous Merc SLK project, it was a walk in the park. More car design like this please.

PART TWO: Our 2008 Panda 100HP is due an MOT test. In preparation, we go through the mechanicals and replace a few bits to make sure it’s fighting fit. Andrew Everett gets his hands dirty for once!

 The disc edges were a bit rusty but the discs themselves were still quite good and the brake pads not that worn – perhaps 60% remaining. The more friction material left means more capacity to retain brake heat and less to transfer into the caliper piston to heat the brake fluid.

 The caliper carrier comes off now, secured to the hub by 19mm bolts that are torqued up to 100Nm on reassembly. I tend to use a good threadlocking fluid as well as a belt and braces thing – my favourite is Würth green. Remove the two disc retaining bolts and the disc comes off as well.

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 Once again we are using GSF’s own brand DriveTec brake parts. Unlike a lot of budget discs these are silver painted to resist the inevitable corrosion and they do last well. They don’t have an oily protective film to clean off. Just bolt them on and the pads go to work straight away.

 Coat the hub flange with a very light smear of suitable brake grease and fit the disc. Fiats use a pair of 12mm retaining bolts with wheel locating prongs. Just nip this up hand tight – no need to go mad. Thread-lock the caliper carrier bolts (not essential) and torque them both up.

 You’ll have cleaned up the caliper carrier already, as well as the stainless pad shims – don’t ignore this as the new pads might be sticky and cause an issue. Lightly smear some brake grease on the pad ‘ears’, slide them into place, fit the caliper and nip the bolts up to 27Nm.

REAR DISCS & PADS

The Panda’s rear brakes were also in decent condition with OK discs, pads and a working handbrake. Disc and pad replacement is broadly similar to the fronts apart from the curse of the home mechanic – wind-back brake calipers. They can be a nuisance and you really need the correct tool.

Like fronts, start by removing the two disc-to-hub 12mm retaining bolts that are nipped up hand tight – 10Nm if you are really fussy. A bit of grease on the threads doesn’t hurt either. You may find as we did that one had broken off in the hub – it’s not a problem to have just one in place.

Before fitting the new disc, you must clean up the disc-to-hub mating flange. Rust forms here and if the hub isn’t perfectly clean, the disc won’t sit flat. I used a wire cup brush in an angle grinder to get a perfect finish.

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Unlike the front calipers where the slider pins only move in and out and do not rotate, the rear ones require holding with a 17mm spanner to prevent them from turning whilst you remove the 13mm bolts. Some new pads come with new bolts but ours didn’t – just thread-lock the old ones.

REAR DISCS & PADS CONTINUED

The caliper can now be removed but because we have wind-back pistons, it’s impossible to push them back with a screwdriver. The caliper is very light so it can be safely hung on the handbrake cable without straining the brake hose. The pads can now be carefully removed.

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Shown here are the two Allen bolts that secure the caliper carrier to the rear axle. We think they were 7mm, but they were pretty rusty, and needed a Torx bit hammering in to get a good grip. They are tightened up to 60Nm on reassembly and I again used thread-lock fluid.



Whilst the front brakes use four shims in each carrier – two per brake pad –the rear ones use two shims that go across the carrier. Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to carefully prise them out as shown here. Pull the slider pins out and grease them up if they feel like they might be sticking.

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Like the fronts, clean up the hub very thoroughly and bolt the new disc on followed by the caliper carrier. The pads clip into the carrier shims with a dab of brake grease – use this as opposed to copper grease as it just makes a neater job of it in our opinion. It’s cheap enough.

 Wind-back pistons need the correct tool to do this job. Forget about doing this job without one, you will fail. They are available for under £15 these days. Fit the tool as shown with the pegs on the disc locating into the slots on the piston and wind them clockwise. It can be tough going.

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You may find that you go to fit the new pads and caliper that they then won’t fit back on – well they will... the rear disc is jammed. This is because the locating pin on the rear of the brake pad isn’t locating into one of the four slots on the piston – just rotate the piston enough for the pin to engage.

The caliper carrier, like the front one, is cast iron and they can rust spectacularly on cars that have lived in harsh climates. Our car is quite good in that regard for a 14+ year old Fiat – and this is ours on removal. It will need a good clean up though and you can see the stainless shims.

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The offside rear bearing was so bad that we initially thought it was a front one – at 50mph it was like a Lancaster bomber was flying overhead. Spinning all four wheels soon found the culprit. To get to this stage, remove the caliper and disc as we have outlined.

 Remove the metal dust cap with a hammer and screwdriver – there is a new one with the bearing kit so you can be brutal. You will need a 32mm socket and a serious breaker bar to get the bearing retaining nut off as it is tightened up to a whopping 280Nm. A ¾-inch breaker bar is best.

REAR SPRINGS & DAMPERS

 We used GSF’s own brand of dampers. These being Amtex which we rate quite highly and especially for the little they cost. As you might be able to see, the upper and lower ‘eyes’ are wider on the Amtex units as opposed to the ones on the old units – I’ll try and find a home for these.

Our rear dampers had been replaced before, but with a make that we’re not over enamoured with so will remain nameless. With a trolley jack under the rear spring cup to just take some spring tension, undo and remove this 16mm damper upper retaining bolt. Easy for once.

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 Underneath the back of the car, you can then slacken and remove this lower bolt after which the damper can be prised out with a big screwdriver from the axle beam. On reassembly, fit the new damper and bolts, jack up the axle to normal ride height and torque the bolts up to 80Nm.

 As with the dampers, the rear springs are super easy to remove. Just disconnect the damper at one end, force the axle down and the spring just comes out – compare this to the previous Mercedes SLK project, Fiat actually put some intelligent thought into how it can be repaired.

Panda and 500 rear axles are known to rot however, both in the spring cups and in bad cases on the welded seams. We wanted to remove our rear springs mainly to assess the axle condition and do a bit of rust-proofing. Our spring cups looked a bit rusty but not terrible.

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 I started with a screwdriver to scrape all the mud and crap out as well as any flaky rust. Then I used a bit of coarse emery paper before spraying some zinc primer in there (seen here) followed by black Waxoyl. You could drill an extra water drain hole in there as well if you wanted.

 Here is the new DriveTec wheel bearing kit and like most these days it comes as a complete ‘slide off slide on’ unit which saves time and aggro driving out old bearing races. They are so cheap to buy that it’s probably worth replacing both if combining this with a brake service.

 Here, the new hub is on and is being torqued. If your ½-inch torque wrench doesn’t go up to 280Nm, thread-lock the new nut and do it as much as you can – then use a breaker bar and an extension pole to tweak it a bit more – realistically, it’s a self-locking nut and it’s not coming off.

Front dampers (each) £100.42

Front top mounts £19.07 Rear dampers (each) £49.96

With the car on axle stands and the wheels off, you need to undo the top strut plate 19mm nut. Don’t worry, the strut won’t all come apart as the main nut is underneath. You need a cranked spanner and a 4mm Allen key The top nut is torqued up to 50Nm on reassembly.

Under the arch, disconnect the anti-roll bar droplink from the strut body as seen here. Ours didn’t have a flat on the pin to hold with a spanner so we cleaned up the thread, used releasing fluid and undid the 16mm nut with a suitable Allen key (4mm here) to hold the pin. Easy enough.

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Not got a cranked spanner? Me neither, so I used a 19mm socket and some serious vice grips as shown here. If the dampers are scrap, you can even use the grips on the chromed damper rods but either way, the top plate nut can put up a bit of a fight. Use a good fitting Allen key as well.

Front discs (pair) £26.77

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More simple design. Unclip the brake hose and ABS sensor wire from the bracket. For the latter I always bend one of the tangs to avoid straining the sensor wire. Now undo and remove the two 18mm strut to hub bolts – they can rust in, but perseverance gets them out. Torque? 75Nm.

 We used GSF’s excellent Amtex struts on the front and we just could not find specific 100HP struts (apart from Fiat). Some cross-reference sleuthing told us that 1.3 Multijet diesel units were in fact the very same. I used spring compressors but you don’t need them. Fiat struts have so much thread for the top mount that the spring is decompressed by the time the 27mm top nut has been removed.



The old top mounts fell to bits when removed – notice all the ball bearings. We could have cleaned, greased, and reassembled but they are so cheap new from GSF that it’s not worth the bother.

Swap the dust boot and bump stop over to the new strut (ours were still good), fit the top retaining plate and the new top mount, and tighten the 27mm nut to 65Nm or decently hand tight if you don’t have a deep socket. Then refit the strut – the second strut took me 45 minutes in total.



When refitting the strut, make sure the pointy bit seen on the top mount points rearwards otherwise the steering castor angle will be incorrect, and the steering will feel a bit odd. With the new struts and top mounts fitted, the steering certainly felt lighter and the car drives very well.

Before you separate the strut from the hub, place some blocks of wood or similar underneath the disc as shown – this is to support it so it doesn’t hang down. On some cars like VW’s the driveshafts can pull out of the inner CV joints. Better to be safe than sorry, eh?

5

MOT test & replacing the driver’s door

PART FIVE: Rob Hawkins puts our Kia through its MOT test and then returns to his local bodyshop, who have a driver’s door ready and waiting to paint.

The Kia’s MOT is due next week,” remarked editor Knowles. Rob admitted he’d completely forgotten to check, so was relieved of the reminder and quickly booked a slot in with his local garage, MJ Motors, for the very day the old test expired. Fortunately, only a blown numberplate light bulb was identified and is not strictly a failure because one of the two was working, but Rob still changed it.

We had been holding out for several months in the hope that a second-hand driver’s door in Techno Orange would appear for sale on eBay, Gumtree or any of the popular selling sites, but eventually got to the point when we could wait no longer. And even if we had found a colour-matched door, there was no guarantee it wouldn’t need blending-in due to colour fade (exposure to sunlight). So, when we heard that our local bodyshop, Elite Accident Repair Centre, had a driver’s door that was initially meant for a customer, but was now going spare, we jumped at the chance. Elite had paint-repaired the nearside of our Kia in parts two and three of this project series, and we’d arranged to return to them when we were ready to replace the driver’s door.

The replacement driver’s door was originally painted silver and was in good shape overall. A minor dent on the exterior was the only blemish, which was straightforward to fix. It was a door that had been sold by a breaker, so it was

supplied stripped, although the window regulator mechanism was still fitted. As we discovered, it’s not too awkward to remove and surely worth selling if you are a breaker, so perhaps it was faulty. Whatever the reason, Gareth at Elite wisely advised us to use everything from our old door because we knew it was working. Apart from the driver’s door mirror, which works perfectly, but is a

MOT TEST

little wobbly, despite it doesn’t shake when the vehicle is being driven at high speed. We’ll have to replace it.

This month, we’re covering the prepwork for the respray, the stripdown of the driver’s door and applying new paint. Next month, we’ll conclude with fitting and assembly, flatting and polishing the paintwork – and hopefully fixing all the remaining jobs on the list.

 It was a close call with our Kia’s MOT test. Arranged on the day that the old certificate ran out, everyone breathed a sigh of relief when it passed, but perhaps this should have been expected considering all the work that had been done on it. Only a blown numberplate light bulb was identified, which was an advisory because one of the two bulbs was still working. Rob decided to renew it there and then.

BLOWING-IN PREP

The offside rear door will need to be blown-in (painted) to help blend with the replacement driver’s door. First, the exterior handle was removed to prep behind it. There’s an access hole on the rear edge to undo a 10mm bolt.

After undoing the 10mm bolt, the smaller part of the door handle was removed, although it was a little awkward and needed a little wiggling to release it. Then the longer part of the exterior door handle was removed.

 There were a couple of decals to remove, including the AWD lettering on the front wing, which was prised off with a trim tool. Some adhesive was left behind, which was cleaned with panel wipe.

 The OSR door had a small piece of clear vinyl, like the one we removed from the NSR door when it was painted (and we still haven’t fitted a new one). We needed to remove this from the OSR door and clean off the adhesive with panel wipe.

 Rob was almost ready to rub down the wing and door with Scotch-Brite, but was advised to protect the plastic wheelarch trims and adjacent panels with masking tape, so he was given a roll.

 Armed with a piece of grey Scotch-Brite, a bucket of water and some blend-prep, Rob got to work on the OSR door and the OSF wing, rubbing them down to take the shine off and key the surfaces for painting.

 A clean down with panel wipe helped to show whether he’d missed any patches and there were a few, including the rear edge of the front wing, which had to be rubbed down again with the Scotch-Brite.

 Through the dullness of the front wing and OSR door, several imperfections were now easier to spot. Gareth assured Rob they could be filled with a little stopper, so Rob finished off the prep-work by blowing over the panels with an air-line.

Gareth at Elite recommended removing the trim (scraper) across the top of the door panel to prep the paintwork behind it. Using a plastic trim tool, it was straightforward to release, while trying to avoid bending the trim.

Despite the replacement door had been stripped, it still needed a little masking-up where there were some black pieces of trim that we didn’t want to remove. Gareth tore off a few strips of masking tape.



Our replacement door needed to be painted inside and out in Techno Orange (we couldn’t find a colourmatched replacement), so Rob started to prep the inside surfaces with a piece of red Scotch-Brite.

 After cleaning down the inside surfaces with panel wipe, Gareth blew over them with an air-line and looked for any remaining shine in the paintwork. Rob had seemingly passed the test for his prep-work.

3 4 5

Gareth spotted one small dent in the exterior of our replacement door, which he quickly fixed with a panel-beating hammer and a dolly. He managed to flatten it out and there was no need for any filler.

 Next, the lower edge of the door was sanded down with a P240-grade paper. This area can get peppered with stonechips, so it was worthwhile cutting it back to remove any imperfections.

 Gareth sanded the remainder of the exterior of the door with P320 and P400 papers attached to the dual-action sander. Rob was let loose with a piece of Scotch-Brite inside the recess for the door handle.

 Finally, Gareth rubbed the door down by hand using a piece of P800 wet-and-dry with lots of soapy water. The paper was wrapped around a sanding block to help keep the sanding consistent.

 Attached to a stand that enabled the door to be supported upright and moved around, Rob cleaned it inside and out with panel wipe. We’re not sure what Gareth was thinking as he stood and watched. Perhaps he was working out how to tell Rob he couldn’t give him a permanent job.

However, Gareth wanted to remove all the paint around the dent, so armed with a Mirka dual-action sander that’s connected to a vacuum cleaner, he sanded the area with a P120-grade paper.

Next, the driver’s door mirror was removed. A trim panel on the inside of the door had already been prised off when removing the door card, so all that remained was to undo three 10mm bolts.



The old driver’s door was still in one piece and fitted, so Rob volunteered to remove all of the parts that would later need to be transferred to the replacement door. First, he removed the door card, secured with clips and three crosshead screws.

 The waterproof sheet on the inside of the door was secured with black sticky sealant. Rob managed to carefully prise it off using a flat-blade screwdriver and placed it safely aside for fitting on to the replacement door.

 Rob could now see he needed to lower the door glass to roughly the halfway mark to access two 10mm bolts that hold the glass to the window regulator. To lower the glass, the electric window switch panel from the door card was undone, secured with several crosshead screws.

 Having lowered the driver’s door window sufficiently to be able to see the two 10mm bolts securing the door glass to the window regulator, they were removed, then Rob lifted the glass out of the door.

The window regulator and lock assemblies can be removed together, so Rob undid three Torx T30 screws that secure the lock to the rear edge of the door, then removed the exterior door handle.

 The small screw shown here didn’t look as though it was obstructing the removal of the lock and window regulator assemblies, but it was removed along with the rubber gasket, and the plastic tags were released.

 A locating dowel for the window regulator needed releasing, and the wiring loom inside the door had to be unclipped, but finally, the large assembly was lifted free and placed aside for fitting into the replacement door.

Despite having undone six 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut for the window regulator assembly, it still couldn’t be freed. Inside the door rear, a channel was spotted for the door glass, secured with two 10mm nuts.

PREP FOR PAINTING

Meanwhile, Gareth had applied a few spots of stopper to help fill in any holes made by stonechips. Rob wet-flatted them afterwards with a piece of P800-grade wet-anddry paper wrapped around a sanding block.

After cleaning down the door and wing once again with panel wipe and blowing over them with an air-line, the final stages of masking began, starting with fitting strips along the edges of the rear door.

The strips of masking tape had their adhesive sides facing outwards, enabling another strip of masking tape to be fitted over them once the door had been closed. This helped to achieve an airtight seal.

Then our Kia was moved into the spray booth and covered in a clear sheet. Gareth, and apprentice Connor, cut out sections to be painted and masked around them.

Connor wiped down the wing and door once more with panel wipe, meticulously using one cloth for applying the panel wipe and another for carefully wiping it off in one direction.

Meanwhile, the door had already been moved into the spray booth, so Gareth gave it a clean with panel wipe and a couple of cloths. The exposed metal around the repaired dent was painted with an epoxy primer.

Ready to apply the first coat of paint to the replacement door, Gareth wiped over it with a tack rag to remove any remaining dust that could be electrostatically attached to the metalwork and blew over the surfaces with air from his paint gun.



The first coat of paint was applied to the door, left to dry for a few minutes before a second and third coat. A final coat of lacquer was applied later, and the door was left inside the spray booth overnight to dry.

 Gareth also painted the OSR door and the front wing, applying a couple of coats of Techno Orange and later two coats of lacquer.

Peter Simpson provides us with an insight into the automotive sales trading world – and beyond.

The demise of the main dealer?

 Please be in no doubt about it; the retail motor industry is changing more now than at any time in the 40+ years that I’ve been involved with it. Can you imagine the reaction of the average late-1990s/early noughties car dealer, complete with his leatherbound printed copy of Glasses Guide or CAP, or the average car buyer in the early noughties if they were told that, by 2022, around half the retail car sales in the UK would be ‘unseen’, British Car Auctions would have switched to online-only buying with no opportunity for pre-sale viewing and that even where live viewing is available, many cars are bought by the trade purely on the auctioneer’s description.

That, though, is the world in which we are living, and with the switch from face-to-face to online/distance selling, so the role of the main dealer is diminishing still further.

Once upon a time, they were in every respect a manufacturer’s local representative – they were in effect solely responsible for new-car sales within their area, generally kept a good stock of late used cars (mostly ones which they’d supplied new), had a well-stocked spares department and a service/repair operation which could basically tackle anything.

These days though, separate parts departments rarely exist, pretty-much anything you need has to be ordered (if a dealer keeps stock of something it’s usually a pretty good indicator that the item in question is a common weakness!) and with increased service intervals there’s less work for the service department. That leaves only retailing cars, and with new cars there’s less and less need to actually see a car before buying it; you can find pretty-much all you need to know online!

Therefore, the recent announcement by Stellantis of a massive cut in dealer numbers wasn’t actually a massive surprise to me. It’s a big cut though –by May 2023 138 dealerships across the Stellantis brands (that’s Vauxhall, Peugeot/Citroën/DS, Fiat, Alfa Romeo and Chrysler/Jeep in the UK) will have lost their franchised dealer status, leaving just 176 across the UK. Stellantis have also hinted pretty strongly that this won’t be the end of it, either.

It’s been suggested that the bulk of the losses will be among the solus GM/ Vauxhall franchises. Stellantis are keen to stress that the dealer network remains important, but it seems likely that the way forward is to be larger franchises offering the full range of Stellantis products from one site. A further nail in the coffin of the few remaining familyrun independents then, though perhaps one that isn’t that surprising.

What really matters to us, though, is the effect of all this on the aftermarket motor trade – those of us who basically feed on the crumbs which main dealers don’t want. Well, I see a number of things which might or might not happen. Firstly, the main dealer’s role in parts supply is likely to be further diminished; I can see a time when manufacturers parts operations find it easier to simply supply customers direct rather than through dealers.

The biggest changes, though, are likely to be in how part-exchanges that aren’t suitable for retail are disposed of. It’s likely that disposal routes for part-exchanges will become more streamlined, with far more ‘everything goes to auction’ arrangements than now. It’s also possible that the age of cars retailed by main dealers will become younger – with a greater number of potential part-exchanges

being offered from across the range of franchises they can afford to be choosier – and older, lower-priced cars generally mean smaller profit margins. We might even see a situation where dealers decide not to take part-exchanges that they don’t want themselves at all, and instead direct customers to the likes of webuyanycar.com

None of this is certain. But what I am sure of is that the next decade will see car retailing right across the vehicleage spectrum continue to change and evolve – and wise dealers will need to change with it.

TOP TIP

 Though traders usually look to breakers yards as a source of cheap parts, nowadays they may not be much, if any, cheaper than new or remanufactured aftermarket items.

New parts, if available, are usually easier to fit, look better and, generally speaking, there’s less likelihood of inadvertently buying the wrong item. It’s always worth spending a few minutes checking, though be aware that new stuff listed by onlineonly suppliers isn’t always the best quality.

“By May 2023 138 dealerships across the Stellantis brands (that’s Vauxhall, Peugeot/Citroën/DS, Fiat, Alfa Romeo and Chrysler/ Jeep in the UK) will have lost their franchised dealer status.”

DS divorce?

 Talking as we were a moment ago, about Stellantis, it seems that as well as the dealer network, the brand structure is also coming under review. Specifically, Alfa Romeo and DS are to form the Premium Division and, consequently, DS is going to be removed from its Citroën parent. I recently came across evidence of how seriously they are taking this change…

About a year ago, I signed up to the ‘Corgi Model Club’ – basically they are, in conjunction with brand-owners Hornby, re-releasing some of the classic Corgi toys of the 1960s, and though I’m not normally a fan of things like this, I do like getting a new-old Corgi model every month. The most recent re-release is the Citroën DS Monte Carlo rally car from 1965. Except that Stellantis won’t allow Hornby to call it a Citroën DS, as the two brands are now separate, and no amount of discussion could persuade them to change their mind! Consequently, the re-released model’s box, and baseplate, now describe it as a DS19 and despite the DS being almost certainly the finest Citroën ever made, Corgi can’t call their model a Citroën!

Half & half

 This is the time of year when, typically, a car battery may fail – and these days once a battery starts not holding charge it soon fails completely. It’s also far from unknown when this happens to someone who bought the car three or four months ago in the summer to ask the supplying dealer to contribute towards, or cover completely, the cost of renewal. Something like this is a grey area – on the one hand a battery failing could be construed as coming under the usual trader’s ongoing responsibility for up to six months after sale. Equally though a new battery on, say, a ten-year-old car, could be considered normal wear and tear and a routine replacement.

My approach, when this happens, is to offer a 50% contribution. Most people will accept that, especially if you also offer to obtain it for them from a nationwide chain such as GSF Car Parts or Halfords – others are, of course, available. That way your customer has the advantage of a worthwhile guarantee which is valid at any branch.

Green slip only?

There is also, though, a benefit to you. Here’s an example of how it can work. Let’s assume a battery costs £90 retail from, say, Halfords. If, though, you’ve got a Halfords Trade Card, you get 20% off that, and actually pay £72. However, your customer is not trade, so they are not entitled to the trade discount. You are therefore quite justified in charging them the retail price for their half – £45 – meaning you pay just £27 for your half, saving you £18. OK, £18 isn’t a fortune. But in these times every pound counts, and the difference between £45 and £27 might just be enough to tip the scales between you feeling justified in making a “50% goodwill contribution” and saying no.

 Thankfully, the days of goodness-knows-how-long delays in processing an application for a duplicate/ replacement V5C Registration Document do now seem to have ended – these days the typical turnaround time seems to be about five weeks, though this certainly isn’t guaranteed. Personally, I tend to avoid cars without a V5C anyway. It’s hassle that I don’t need, and it also means putting the car into my name for a short time, which quite apart from being something that might need explaining to buyers, brings with it the responsibility to either tax or SORN the car, and then process the sale as a private transaction.

There is, though, a potential trap if buying a car with only the green ‘new owner’ V5C2 section of the V5C. This is intended for use by a new keeper to tax a vehicle which is going through a change of ownership. But it can only be used once. So if, as is often the case, a ‘green slip only’ vehicle is at auction because a recent change in ownership hasn’t been processed properly, then chances are the V5C2 won’t be useable. You also won’t be able to use it if it’s been superseded – in other words if the V5C that it came from has been replaced by another, later issued one.

Of course, a car like this is suspicious anyway – why would someone be getting rid of something so soon after buying?

You are therefore quite justified in charging them the retail price for their half – £45 – meaning you pay just £27 for your half, saving you £18.

Buying, Owning & Improving

Ian Cushway searches out new and used parts prices

MINI CLUBMAN

If space and style are equally important, then this big MINI F54 might prove the perfect answer.

Remember, dear readers, the original ’60s Mini Clubman?

If the answer’s a nostalgic ‘yes’, then we’re from the same vintage! It was tiny, wasn’t it? Yet, like the modern-day namesake we’re focussing on here, it had precisely the same remit – to make the vehicle it was based upon moderately more practical for family buyers. The latest Clubman even has the same, charismatic rear barn doors as the original.

Being the least ‘mini’ of any of the MINIs, the F54 Clubman which arrived in 2015 is a bit of a giant compared to its classic counterpart. At 4253mm long and 2022mm wide, it even makes the Generation 2 Clubman (F55) – which, in truth, was little more than a squared-off Hatch – look compact. But here’s the thing; unlike its 2006-2013 predecessor, it has four proper side doors instead of the rear-hinged affair which bizarrely

Cooper S had the twin-scroll turbo and produced a whopping 189bhp in 2.0-litre petrol guise. The Cooper SD has similar power and offers rapid acceleration with 60mpg potential.

spat passengers out into the road on right-hand drive models.

Suffice to say that’s not the only difference because it also offers exceptional sophistication and the kind of luxuries and levels of comfort those first Clubman owners could only have dreamed of six decades ago. Believe it or not, there’s even a four-wheel drive (ALL4) version in the line-up.

SUV alternative

Having highlighted the contradiction that exists naming a car that’s now far bigger than most superminis a MINI, it’s worth identifying where the Clubman sits in the family car sector and, in particular, the rest of the MINI squad. In a nutshell, being sat on the larger UKL2 platform, it’s targetted at potential MINI Hatch buyers that need more space inside but don’t want to sacrifice style with the

more SUV-like MINI Countryman, or more conventional family SUVs. Those twin-opening rear doors are great for loading luggage and with 360-litres with all five seats in their upright position, the boot comes close in capacity to that of the Golf estate. Fold everything flat and space expands to 1250-litres.

Indeed, there’s a wonderful feeling of spaciousness inside that’s been absent on MINIs previously with generous legroom in the back thanks to the extra 72mm over the three-door MINI. Moreover, everything feels much more upmarket than before, and the quality of the interior fittings is right up there with the best prestige offerings from the likes of Audi and Mercedes.

In truth, it’s the fact it’s just a bit different that appeals, from the large central circular display that made its debut as a speedo (harking back to the original) on the very first BMW-MINIs in 2001, through to the now familiar toggle switches, chunky detailing and repeated nods towards the Union flag.

Clubman is over 40cm longer than the same era Hatch.

Engine component prices

OIL FILTER

Main dealer £22.22 independent from £20.47

CLUTCH KIT

Main dealer £342.37 independent from £283.79

TURBO

Main dealer £1928.28 independent from £1105.49

Clubmans introduced as part of the 2019 facelift (which added Apple CarPlay) even featured a representation of the flag in its LED rearlights and wheels. Oh, and did we mention the distinctive, unbroken loops of illumination in the form of front LED running lights which double up as turn indictors on the post-2019 models? In short, it all adds up to a stylish, practical and very chic family car package. Being so new, problems are few and far between so you’ll be able to buy with confidence. That said, it will still pay to be aware of some of the potential niggles – and the fact that by shopping around for parts you’ll shave money off your regular maintenance bills.

Engines

There was a choice of a three-cylinder 1.5 diesel or 1.5 petrol in the ONE, with a 2.0-litre diesel engine offered alongside the 1.5 petrol in the Cooper. The Cooper S came with either the 2.0-litre diesel SD or 2.0-litre petrol. There was a choice of

either manual or auto transmission, the latter in seven-speed DCT guise being particularly well-suited to this car.

The wild child in the Clubman range is the John Cooper Works (JCW) which has 306bhp on tap and can outrun most hot hatches. These come with 4x4 and sports autobox as standard.

Engine issues are rare, though there have been some reports of turbo failure on the diesel, probably because of missed oil changes – a new replacement is £1928.28 from BMW. Additionally, some Cooper S owners have reported high oil consumption and leaks from the rocker cover gasket, so keep an eye on levels and signs of oil in the bay on these.

Unsurprisingly given their origins, MINI engines employ a timing chain so replacing the filter and oil every two years/18,000 miles (sooner we say) is important.

Regarding upgrades, Lohen’s remap for the 1.5 diesel adds a useful 30bhp and 61Nm of torque and costs £399.

Which model?

 The three basic specs were ONE, Cooper and Cooper S with Classic, Sport and Exclusive trim being adopted after 2018. There was also a variety of special editions. While they become incrementally sportier, with the more recent Exclusive focussing more on luxury with its leather seats, in reality, given the seemingly endless list of options and option packs, no two Clubmans are likely to be the same.

This means when viewing cars, you’ll need to judge each one on its own merit based on how well kitted out it is. If it has a Chili option pack with its better seats and the Media XL sound system option you won’t go far wrong. Wheels are a grey area; 16in rims can look a little lost in the arches, while anything bigger can have a detrimental effect on ride.

Engine-wise, there seems to be a general sway towards petrol. And indeed, if you don’t do many miles, this is a sensible choice. Being more abundant, though, the 2.0D is a good bet and a Cooper with the aforementioned options will be the best buy.

Steering and suspension

While the extra length and width of the Clubman erodes the MINI’s legendary nimbleness, it will still feel planted and fun to drive. Beware though of cars with the optional sports suspension and the Cooper SD which was fitted with firmer suspension than the standard D model; some will find the ride too harsh, especially with 17in (and bigger) alloy wheels.

Otherwise, listen out for clunks from the front lower control arm bushes which

Buying, Owning & Improving

seem to wear on the Clubman. Powerflex supply an upgraded replacement front arm bush which retails at £33.66 (pair).

Brakes

MINI stoppers are strong, reassuring and usually without any issues – though we’ve noticed a few owners reporting premature wear on rear discs/pads. There’s an electronic parking brake, though it seems you don’t need to set the caliper to service mode and can wind back the caliper manually to replace discs/pads out back.

In terms of upgrades, Lohen offer a JCW sport brake kit with drilled and grooved

What to pay?

 Tantalisingly, the first diesel Clubmans from 2016 have now just ducked below the magic £10,000 mark. Still pricey, but good value given the entry price for a ONE D was £21,865 when new. Petrol models are slightly dearer, with £11,000-12,000 being the starting price for a 1.5 ONE. Meanwhile, the desirable Cooper S Clubman kicks off at £12,000, though you can expect to pay £20,000£22,000 for one that’s just a couple of years old with delivery mileage. Fancy the full works with a JCW? Be warned, you’ll need the best part of £40,000 in your pocket for one of those.

MINI

335x30mm front discs, 300x20mm rears and improved cooling for £1500. It’s suitable for 17in JCW wheels and up. A less costly solution is to fit EBC Yellow Stuff performance front brake pads which are £82.99 on the aftermarket.

Other things to look for

Build and reliability is excellent, so don’t expect many problems on a looked after used Clubman from this era. If we’re wanting to split hairs, some owners have mentioned creaks from the dash, faulty horn rings and door rubbers that rub through to the paint.

Some MINIs will have come with optional Dunlop runflat tyres and a question often asked by owners is whether these should be swapped for conventional tyres when they wear out. There’s are arguments for and against; runflats are generally noisier, have less grip, are less forgiving on rough road surfaces and are more expensive to buy. That said, you won’t need to take up valuable bootspace with a spare wheel, tools and a jack, or have the fiddle of using a repair kit and compressor if you puncture.

How much to run?

 The cheapest Clubman to run will be the 1.5 ONE D which is Group 15 to insure and will do 70mpg driven with a featherlight right foot. Depending on age, annual VED will be between nothing and £165. The petrol version ONE is Group 17 and returns 48.7mpg. The pokier 1.5 petrol Cooper comes in at Insurance Group 17, while the 2.0 D Cooper and Cooper SD are Group 18 and 23 respectively. The Cooper S petrol is Group 22 and will be between £165-£180 to tax. Unsurprisingly, the lunatic JCW is Insurance Group 30. Official figures suggest the 2.0-litre diesels will be capable of 60+mpg, though we predict driven enthusiastically around town (as would commonly be the case, we suspect) 40mpg would be a more realistic figure.

Other

Verdict

 Practical but stylish, quick, fun to drive and beautifully made –we’re struggling to find much in the way of negatives to say about the Clubman. It’s unique in the marketplace; a car-like estate that’s brimming with fun and idiosyncratic features. And with its charismatic retro feel inside, owning one is likely to prove a special experience. You won’t find too many bargains, but that’s to be expected with a classy, premium product with this much charisma. That said, with prices at under £10,000 they’re not too dear.

Apple CarPlay became a sought-after addition on post-2019 Clubmans.

Post-2019 Clubmans even had the Union flag symbolised in the rear lights.

Chunky switchgear is a lovely retro touch.

CM Insider

Ben Hackney-Williams brings you another month of news and reviews from the automotive industry

“Don’t mess with MOT frequency,” says IAAF to

 The chief exec of the Independent Automotive Aftermarket Federation is urging Mark Harper, the new secretary of state for transport, to strengthen the current 3-1-1 MOT testing regime through the addition of testing vehicles’ electronically-controlled safety systems.

The IAAF, along with UK AFCAR, is actively highlighting to ministers and their departments the dangers involved if the first MOT is conducted when the vehicle becomes four-years-old and the risks this creates that then threaten road safety.

“DVSA’s regulation of the MOT process and current testing frequency of 3:1:1 help to make the UK’s roads the second safest in Europe and while we look forward to working with the new ministers across both Department for Business, Energy & Industrial

Strategy (BEIS) and Department for Transport (DFT),” explains IAAF chief executive Mark Field. “We will fight any detrimental changes that threaten road safety and the automotive aftermarket.”

“Recent research from the RAC has shown that the majority of motorists consider that the UK MOT test is important for road safety and should not be changed and the wider industry is also firmly opposed to the idea of any changes to the 3-1-1 format.”

The IAAF had also spoken out against the financial shake-up by former chancellor Kwasi Kwarteng, saying the support issues were useless without backing and bolstering automotive legislation. These changes involved scrapping the additional tax rate, cancelling the planned rise in corporation

Your Euro road trip essentials in one travel kit

 Don’t forget, Brexit means Brexit, which also means that you need a UK sticker instead of the old GB alternative when you’re travelling around Europe. Don’t worry though, as Ring Automotive has got you covered, with a handy travel kit to quell your continental concerns.

The Essential European Travel Kit (RK002) features everything you need to keep you out of trouble with the law on the roads in Europe. Not only does it cover you legally, but it means that with this packed and ready to roll, you can concentrate on making sure your other essentials such as tickets and passports are the only things you need to focus on.

Included in the kid is a warning triangle, two high visibility jackets, a universal bulb kit, a pair of beam converters, a UK sticker, a first aid kit, and a foil blanket, all contained within a compact Ring-branded carrying case.

government

tax, and reversing the recently introduced rise in National Insurance. In an attempt to boost the UK economy, these measures had been set in place alongside the Government’s Energy Bill Relief Scheme which sets the wholesale cost of energy for businesses, including those across the automotive aftermarket.

Clarke trio offer heat



Heating any space has been a real hot topic over recent weeks, so when it comes to keeping cosy in the workshop you need a heat source that’s reliable and effective, every time.

Weighing in at just over 2.5kg, the Devil 2850 kicks things off with a tough steel casing for durability and a carry handle for ease of portability anywhere. One of a range of electric heaters, the Devil 2850 provides a two-stage heat output of 1.4-2.8kW.

Things starting hotting up even more with the Little Devil II, a gas fan heater with an output of 10.3kW. The corrosion resistant steel casing and sturdy handle make convenience key, while its fuel safety cut out brings peace of mind.

If it’s a diesel/paraffin fired space heater you’re after, Clarke’s XR80 model provides a heat output of up to 20.5kW, with other models in the range providing a maximum heat output of up to 61kW. Fuel tanks of up to 53-litres mean a run time of up to 13 hours. Once again, safety’s sorted as the 230V power supply is fitted inside a stainless steel combustion chamber with automatic flame failure cut out and a variable heat control thermostat to keep rooms at the perfect temperature.

 With over 300 price cuts over 6000 choices for tools and machinery, the new Machine Mart 484-page autumn-winter catalogue is out now! If the deals in print aren’t enough for you, there are even a further 15,000 additional products online. Visit machinemart.co.uk to order your copy or simply for more details. You can also visit your local store or call 0844 880 1265.

Crash criminal caught out after late insurance call

 A driver has had to pay over £2100 in fines and compensation costs after a false insurance claim following a collision. Octavian Radu, 28, crashed his Audi A4 into a house in Drayton, causing at least £85,000 worth of damage.The following investigation found that Radu then contacted an insurance company to obtain a policy. Oxford Magistrates’ Court found him guilty of driving without due care and attention. He admitted driving without valid insurance and, in addition to the fines, received eight penalty points.“It was one of the most blatant attempted deceptions I’ve seen in all my years as a motor insurance fraud investigator,” exclaims Philip Swift, former detective and now MD of Kent-based Claims Management & Adjusting. “Retrospectively getting cover, or ‘forward dating’ the event, is a common con, but this one was absurd, seemingly designed to fool the police he had purchased cover that very same day. This immediately set alarm bells ringing and prompt notification by our client enabled us to verify key facts while the shocking incident was still fresh in the memory of locals.

Hundreds of videos added to

training platform

 Celebrating the company’s 50th anniversary, Autodata Training, the world’s leading provider of technical training solutions for the automotive industry, has expanded its resource library with hundreds of new assets.

The addition of 350 high-quality training videos to its extensive library continues on Autodata’s success as the industry’s first on-demand multi-content platform of its kind. This latest iteration gives workshops easier access to building on knowledge and keeping skills up-to-date. What’s more, it helps to alleviate difficulties in recruitment and retention at a time when there’s an industry-wide people shortage. Visit autodata-training.com for more information.

These masks aren’t compulsory, but they are essential

 Forget the material face masks dominating news stories for the past couple of years… Leading UK PPE manufacturer, Globus Group, has brought out the big guns with a new range of protection for workers dealing with extremely hazardous substances in the workplace.

Designed and manufactured entirely in the UK, the Alpha Sentinel range has been designed with comfort in mind, with a large exhalation valve to minimise heat and moisture build-up.

The Alpha Sentinel range comes with a range of changeable filters to protect against solid particulates, liquid particulates, gases, and vapours.

Sights and sounds sorted with Philips

 Designed in consultation with mechanics, for mechanics, the Philips Xperion 6000 Flood, Flood Audio, and Flood Mini bring durability and incredible illumination to any task where visibility is an issue.

High-performance LEDs and an ergonomic smart-zoom knob – it allows you to adjust the beam, even with gloves on, and the range can produce up to 1000 lumens from just 10 watts of power. Even the compact Mini delivers an impressive 500 lumens.

The Xperion Flood or Flood Audio can even be remotely powered on or off just by waving a hand, operated by a specific double-wave gesture so as to ignore accidental or unintended movements. When it comes time to turn off and on again, the smart light remembers your last setting and restarts at the same intensity.

Last but not least on the features list, the Flood and Flood Audio can be used as a power bank to charge smartphones and other devices; as the name suggests, the Flood Audio also doubles up as a Bluetooth media player thanks to the integrated speakers.

Renault look to Castrol for partnership extension  Renault Group and Castrol (part of the BP group), extend their partnership for a further three years until the end of 2027. The two companies will continue to co-design and supply aftermarket engine oils to the global dealer network of Renault Group brands (Renault, Dacia and Alpine).

New pads, discs and accessories from Textar  Aftermarket braking specialist, TMD Friction, has expanded its Textar braking product lines. In addition to new pads, discs and accessories, newly introduced ABS sensors and wear leads for a wide range of manufacturers are now available. That’s not all, either, as a new range of lowviscosity (LV) DOT 4 brake fluid, is available in 250ml, 500ml, one litre and five litre quantities, too.Technicians and workshops can find out more online via the Textar Brakebook catalogue at textar.com/en/brakebook

Will you find a golden ticket?

 Ring Automotive has hidden 200 golden tickets in battery care and inspection lamp packs as part of a new promotion, with Amazon and Just Eat vouchers up for grabs. Mechanics and technicians purchasing Ring’s range of high-end inspection lamps and battery care equipment from motor factors, can check which prize their golden ticket has won them by visiting the Ring rewards site: ring-rewards.com

Hundreds of deals over thousands of Machine Mart goodies

REPAIR

It’s bewildering to think that replacement parts for a gearbox from a vehicle that was manufactured less than 20 years ago are no longer available, but when it comes to the Getrag manual ’box for the later R50 MINI One (early models had a Midlands gearbox), some parts are no longer available. Fortunately, most bearings are a common size, so they are readily available, but when we discovered the end of the main shaft inside our gearbox had worn and needed replacing, new ones are no longer available. Luckily, the gearbox specialist we visited, who generally only deals with the trade, had a solution. They proposed machining the end of the main shaft, fitting a sleeve and then reassembling the gearbox with a suitable new bearing for it. The following steps show the damage we found inside our Getrag gearbox, how it was fixed and the reassembly of the gearbox.

We took our Getrag gearbox to transmission specialist Stephen A Brear Gearboxes where they immediately noticed the wear on the main shaft and explained this is probably the cause of the excessive noise. Plus, it’s only a matter of time before this will fail.

Brear’s solution to such a common problem is to have the end of the main shaft machined down and sleeved (as shown on the right of this photo – the original shaft is on the left). New parts are not available any more for this gearbox – hence why Brear have modified spare shafts on the shelf.

PART TWO: Rob Hawkins discovers there are more problems to fix on the Getrag gearbox for a 2005 MINI, but luckily, a local specialist can save the day with some machine work and new bearings.

They also inspected the diff bearing and concluded it was worn, so that too would need renewing. In fact, they recommended fitting several new bearings to ensure the gearbox was in good condition.

Before fitting a new diff bearing race into the offside gearbox casing, John warmed up the alloy with a blowtorch to make it easier to fit. The heat helps the aluminium casing to expand, whereas the steel race is left cold.

We joined them after they had stripped out the gearbox, had the main shaft sleeved and were ready to assemble it. Technician John volunteered to complete the job and started with assembling the diff.

The new diff bearing was drifted into position using a suitably-sized hollow drift, of which Brears have a varied selection. They’ve also made their own tools or modified existing ones for particular gearbox jobs.

John lowered the new bearing race into position, then seated it using a hammer and drift, making sure he fitted it evenly.

The diff was trial-fitted and spun to ensure it rotated freely. Then it was removed as more parts were about to be fitted.

Taking the other half of the gearbox casing (the deeper offside section), John fitted another diff bearing race, warming up the alloy first and applying the gearbox specialist’s equivalent of thread lock.

The two halves of the gearbox casing were secured together, then John fed a screwdriver through into the differential to test the pre-load on the bearings. A pre-load gauge can be used here, but John has the experience to test it this way.

Next, John assembled the gears for the main shaft, some of which need to be press-fitted and others are secured with circlips.

The

There

After heating up the area where the two bearings sit, he fitted the bearings and drifted them into position.

Taking the offside gearbox casing, John warmed up the sealed recess where the end of the main shaft sits (the opposite end to where the sleeve has been fitted).

gear cluster and selector forks were assembled on the workbench, then lowered into position on the nearside half of the gearbox casing.

John now trial-fitted the nearside half of the gearbox casing over the gear cluster that was already sat in the offside half of the gearbox casing to check that the two could be fitted together.

were still a few more parts to fit inside the gearbox, so the two halves of the casing were separated, and the reverse idler gear was fitted alongside the gear clusters.

John wanted to replace the two bearings in the nearside half of the gearbox casing, which are for the main shaft and the input shaft, so he drifted them out.

He then fitted a new bearing into the recess and progressively seated it using a hammer and drift. Notice there’s an oil funnel/guide in the centre of the bearing.

Next, a small magnet was cleaned and refitted inside a slot in the gearbox casing. This collects metal filings with the aim of preventing them damaging the teeth of the gears.

John laid the differential in position, then applied a bead of sealant to the mating surface of the offside half of the gearbox casing, avoiding the mounting holes.

The two halves of the gearbox casing were joined together for a final time and all 17 of the Torx E12 bolts were progressively tightened.

The gearchange mechanism was fitted to the exterior of the gearbox. The ends of the gear linkage cables are attached to this mechanism, which in turn operate the selector forks.

John manually rotated the input shaft to check the gear clusters rotated smoothly. He also operated the gearchange mechanism to select and work through all five forward gears and reverse.

Satisfied the gearbox was working, John fitted a new driveshaft seal on the offside casing, drifting it into position.

Finally, he refitted the covers into the nearside half of the gearbox casing to protect the ends of the main and input shafts. All we had to do now was return to Mad4mini and refit the gearbox to the MINI.

Product Test

Rob Hawkins puts products through their paces

Most of us have at least one drawer of a cabinet or toolbox rammed full of old screwdrivers, and if their handles and tips are chewed, they still have their uses, so they are impossible to throw away. Even an old flatblade screwdriver with a bent shaft and half of its handle missing can still be used to open tins of paint and stir their contents.

Perhaps, however, it’s better to invest in a good quality set of screwdrivers, dispose of all those battered old ones and free up some drawer space. If so, then one of the following nine sets of screwdrivers may be the answer.

How many screwdrivers do you really need? Rob tries to figure it all out by testing a range of nine different sets from Clarke, Draper, Laser and Sealey.

 We confess that when it came to testing a variety of screwdrivers, we soon realised this wasn’t going to be as easy as anticipated. We couldn’t for instance, attempt to undo a rusty screw with one screwdriver from each set because there was no means of ensuring the condition and tightness of the screw was the same in all cases. Tightening new fastenings with the screwdrivers would help to see how comfortable each screwdriver is to use, but that’s an aspect of testing that’s far too opinionated and subjective. Instead, we decided to concentrate on the features included with each screwdriver set (magnetic tips, hammer thru’ shafts, Hexagonal bolster, soft-grip handles), the range of screwdrivers and tip sizes and whether they can be quickly identified. As you’ll discover from our findings, there’s a lot to consider and you may not agree with our scores or awards.

CLARKE 44PIECE HAMMER THROUGH SCREWDRIVER & BIT SET

PART NUMBER: 040213813 PRICE: £39.59 FROM: Machine Mart WEB: www.machinemart.co.uk CONTACT: 0115 956 5555

 The most comprehensive screwdriver set on test, comprising 17 screwdrivers, 10 Hex and Torx bits (with a separate screwdriver for them) and 16 Hex/Allen keys. Some of the tools feel a bit like overkill, especially those Hex/Allen keys, which are not only supplied in metric sizes from 1.5mm to 6mm, but also imperial from 1/16” to ¼”.

This is a neat and compact set with all of the tools stored in a plastic holder that can stand on a shelf or workbench, or be secured to a wall. Each screwdriver is located in a sturdy slot, and they are arranged so that the labelling on the handle for the type and size is easy to see. The two sets of Hex/Allen keys each have their own labelled holder, but are also located in dedicated slots and even the Torx and Hex bits are housed in a labelled hinged holder at the front of the plastic stand.

Shaft lengths of each screwdriver range from 75mm to 150mm (excluding handle length) and the tips cover flatblade/slotted widths from 3mm to 8mm, Phillips from PH0 to PH3, Pozidriv from PZ0 to PZ3 and Torx from T27 to T40. The only type of screwdriver missing is a stubby. The Torx bits cover from T7 to T20, whilst the Hex bits are from 3mm to 6mm. Along with the Torx screwdrivers, a wide range of Torx fastenings is catered for, whereas Hex sizes seem to be duplicated.

Each screwdriver handle has a soft-grip feel to it, which consists of a mixture of a plastic and rubber exterior. They’re ergonomically easy to hold and grip and the hammer thru’ end is sufficiently flat and wide to be able to hit it with a hammer, so hopefully it’s not so easy to slip and hit your hand. The shafts of the screwdrivers are made from chrome vanadium steel and have been tempered for greater strength and durability. The tips are magnetic, which helps with picking up a lost fastening or keeping it located on the end of the screwdriver when attempting to fit it. Despite the shafts being octagonal, they are too thin to use an open-ended spanner for greater leverage.

For the price, there are cheaper and similar screwdriver sets from Clarke and other manufacturers who have adopted the same design, but for roughly £10 less, check for features such as hammer thru’, Torx screwdrivers and magnetic tips. We liked all these features so chose this more expensive set.

There’s a lot more to a set of screwdrivers than simply having a few of them to undo crosshead and slotted screws. Short stubby screwdrivers are handy for tight spaces, whereas ones with a long shaft help to access fastenings that are similarly hard to access. Large screwdrivers, especially ones with a chunky handle, help to apply more force when undoing a fastening, and soft-grip handles can save your skin, whereas a Hex-shaped shaft enables a spanner to be attached to it for extra leverage. A hammer through (commonly known as hammer thru’) shaft means you can hit the top of the screwdriver with a hammer to help shock and release a fastening.

Magnetic tips can help to catch a metal fastening before it falls into the depths

of an engine bay, and it also helps with fitting a screw whereby it will remain attached to the end of the screwdriver.

The quality of those tips is also important. Whilst most screwdrivers’ shafts are made from steel and chromeplated to prevent corrosion, the tips aren’t. Instead, they may be tempered for greater durability.

One of the most confusing issues about screwdrivers concerns Phillips (PH) and Pozidriv (PZ) types. Most comprehensive sets of screwdrivers cover both, and include various numbered sizes in each range, but do you need all of them? Both designs or classifications were created by the Phillips Screw Company. The Phillips (PH) type was the first and originated in 1934 as an improvement over the slotted

DRAPER NINEPIECE CABINET PATTERN SCREWDRIVER SET

PART NUMBER: 29613 PRICE: £26.99 FROM: Draper Tools WEB: www.drapertools.com CONTACT: 023 8049 4333

SCORE 17 OUT

OF 20

 A seemingly solid set of screwdrivers that caters for the three popular types of fastening. The wipe-clean PVC-coated handles provide a good level of grip and are all clearly labelled. Plus, the screwdrivers are colour-coded, so you can quickly learn that orange is for flatblade, blue is for Phillips and green is for Pozidriv. Each group has three screwdrivers, with a bias to the flatblades having the longest shaft at 150mm (the rest have a maximum of 100mm). Flatblade/slotted widths range from 3.2mm to 8mm, and the PH and PZ sizes are from 0 to 2. The labelling on the smallest screwdrivers is quite small, so reading glasses or a magnifying glass may be required.

With chrome vanadium round steel shafts that have been tempered (the tips are sand-blasted), four of the largest screwdrivers have a Hexagonal bolster to enable an 8mm-10mm open-ended spanner to be fitted for extra leverage, although you’d need an extra-long 8mm spanner to make a difference.

We liked the range of screwdrivers included in this set and the quality of the handles. We also liked the carrycase, which has a clear plastic cover and a sliding lock. A couple of stubbies would have completed the collection, but as a set to replace all those old screwdrivers, or an addition that can be left in its carrycase, this is worth considering. Plus, they all come with a lifetime warranty.

Test SCREWDRIVER

flatblade design. It has a crosshead design with four radial slots to achieve a better grip and includes a range of sizes.

In 1959, the Pozidriv (PZ) arrived as an improvement over the Phillips, offering eight radial slots in the head of a screw instead of four, and a range of sizes.

Nowadays, few of us pay that much attention as to whether a crosshead fastening is a PH or PZ type and what size it actually is – most range from PH0 or PZ0 to PH3 or PZ3, but larger ones are available. We may try a larger or smaller screwdriver if the tip doesn’t fit into the head of the fastening – or it either jumps out or spins around when trying to undo the fastening. Having an understanding of sizes and types will help to get the most out of your screwdrivers.

 If you need a set of Phillips and flatblade/ slotted screwdrivers, then this 13-piece set from Sealey’s Siegen range is definitely worth a look. Note however, there are no Pozidriv (PZ) tips, only PH0 to PH3 and slotted widths from 3mm to 8mm wide, with shaft lengths from 38mm for the stubbies up to 200mm.

Each hammer thru’ shaft is made from chrome vanadium steel with a satin finish and shot-blasted and magnetised tips. The colour-coded (red for flatblade and blue for PH) soft-grip handles are labelled with the length of shaft and size and type of tip, making them easy to identify. The rubberised parts of the handle may after a while need a thorough scrub to remove traces of dirt and oil. We liked the rounded flat ends (opposite end to the tip) for hitting with a hammer, would have liked to have seen a Hexagonal bolster to fit an open-ended spanner, but were reassured by the lifetime guarantee. Should you have a spare drawer ready and waiting to store these 13 screwdrivers (no carrycase provided), then they are worth considering.

DRAPER 16PIECE ENGINEER’S SCREWDRIVER SET

PART NUMBER: 56773 PRICE: £75 FROM: Draper Tools

WEB: www.drapertools.com CONTACT: 023 8049 4333

 This set of screwdrivers does what it says on the tin and provides the best range of flablade/slotted, Phillips and Pozidriv sizes without having to fill in the gaps with bits. However, at two or nearly three times the price of many of the other screwdriver sets we’re testing, this is a no-nonsense set aimed at professionals who want the right tools for the job.

So, what’s in the kit that comes with a lifetime warranty? Typical of most of the sets we’ve tested, this one is biased towards flatblades, with seven out of the total of 16 screwdrivers that are for slotted fastenings. These range in tip width from 3.2mm to 8mm and in shaft length from 75mm to 200mm (excluding a stubby screwdriver with a shaft length of 38mm).

The Phillips tips range from PH1 to PH3 and also include a stubby with a PH2, whereas the Pozidrivs are from PZ0 to PZ3 and include a PZ2 stubby. We can guess as to why there’s one more PZ tip over the older PH and judging by the size and shape of the inside of the robust plastic carrycase, it would be difficult to squeeze any more inside.

Whilst the range of screwdrivers is impressive, their performance is also very good. Each shaft is made from SVCM steel in a satin chrome-plated finish with a sand-blasted tip. The larger screwdrivers have a Hexagonal bolster to enable an open-ended spanner (8-10mm) to be used for extra leverage, although you’ll need a longish spanner to help.

The colour-coded handles (red for slotted, green for PZ and blue for PH) are made from heavy-duty polypropylene, but have a soft-grip feel. The labelling on each handle for length of shaft and type of tip is displayed in white, so can easily get smothered in dirt, but the whole surface of the handle can be wiped clean.

CLARKE 10PIECE PRO SCREWDRIVER SET

PART NUMBER: 040211522 PRICE: £33.59 FROM: Machine Mart

WEB: www.machinemart.co.uk CONTACT: 0115 956 5555

 Supplied in an impressive-looking oval-shaped plastic carrycase with a see-through panel so that you know what’s inside. The two plastic clips that lock the carrycase are very flimsy and we can’t see them lasting too long before they break off. Inside, there’s a neat arrangement of slotted (flatblade) and Phillips (PH) screwdrivers, ranging in length from stubby to 150mm long (shaft length) and covering slotted from 3mm to 8mm wide and PH sizes from 0 to 3. There are no Pozidriv screwdrivers. The sizes are clearly displayed on the handle of each screwdriver. Each screwdriver clicks into position inside the plastic case, so they shouldn’t rattle around when being transported.

Apart from the two smallest screwdrivers, all the rest have a Hexagon-shaped top (opposite end to the tip), so a 11mm or 13mm spanner or socket can be fitted over it for greater leverage. Each handle is made from plastic but includes four lengths of dimpled rubber to help improve grip. The shaft of each screwdriver is made from S2 tempered steel along with the tips.

We liked the feel of these screwdrivers, especially with the soft-grip style handles, although we can see them being difficult to clean if they get covered in oil and dirt.

Despite these screwdrivers are not advertised as being a hammer thru’ type, the Hexagonal

shaft, so in theory, they could be hit with a hammer, although that could damage it and

SEALEY 21PIECE SCREWDRIVER SET

PART NUMBER: S0923 PRICE: £28.74 FROM: Sealey

WEB: www.sealey.co.uk CONTACT: 01284 757500

 Supplied in a plastic carrycase with a clear top that’s locked with two flimsy-looking catches, this 21-piece screwdriver set includes six colour-coded flatblade/slotted, Phillips and Pozidriv screwdrivers (two of each with PH and PZ 1-2 and 6-8mm wide flatblades), along with an assortment of bits. Those bits are a confusing mixture. Whilst there are Hex/Allen key bits ranging from 2mm to 6mm (seven bits in total), there are only two flatblades/slotted (4mm and 5mm), a couple of large PH3 and PZ3 bits and three Torx from T15 to T25, making most of them seem like a token gesture. Perhaps they could have been replaced with a couple of stubby screwdrivers instead.

If you ignore the bits, then the screwdrivers are worth a look with their rounded chrome vanadium shafts and shot-blasted and magnetised tips. The soft-grip handles are clearly labelled for the size and type of tip and even the length of the shaft (75mm150mm), although they may take a little scrubbing to remove ingrained dirt and oil, but you can’t have it all. We liked the hanging hole near the top of each screwdriver, so if you don’t want to use the carrycase, the screwdrivers can be hung on hooks instead.

A good value for money 21-piece screwdriver set that carries the Siegen quality approval and a lifetime guarantee.

them

part

Product Test SCREWDRIVER

SEALEY 33PIECE GRIPMAX SCREWDRIVER & BIT SET

PART NUMBER: AK4370 PRICE: £41.94 FROM: Sealey

WEB: www.sealey.co.uk CONTACT: 01284 757500

 A slightly confusing mixture of screwdrivers that manages to cover all the popular sizes in a roundabout way. There are 11 screwdrivers, which mainly have flatblade/slotted tips (five of them), so this type of fastening is well and truly catered for with magnetised shot-blasted tip sizes ranging from 3mm to 8mm and shaft lengths (round chrome vanadium steel in a satin finish) from 38mm for the stubbies to 200mm. The Phillips (PH) and Pozidriv (PZ) only cover sizes 1 and 2 but do include a size 2 for a stubby. Those missing PH and PZ sizes are catered for with a selection of bits and a couple of screwdriver bit holders (a stubby and a 100mm shaft, both with magnetised holders). The bits cover PH0 to PH3 and the same for PZ, but they also include flatblade/slotted sizes from 3mm to 6mm, five Torx bits from T10 to T30 and three Hex bits from 3mm to 6mm. Whilst the larger PH3 and PZ3 sizes have been covered by the range of bits, a more substantial screwdriver with a tip of this size is what’s missing from this screwdriver set to make it more complete.

Each screwdriver is equipped with a polypropylene and TPV rubber soft-grip handle that’s labelled at the end to show the type and size of tip. So even if you cover the handle in oil and dirt, the end of it should be easy to read and even if it’s also covered, it can be wiped clean. The rubbery soft-grip texture of the handle may need to be thoroughly scrubbed should it get really filthy.

We would have liked to have seen a Hexagonal bolster for fitting an open-ended spanner but were pleased to see hanging holes in the ends of the handles – there’s no carrycase. A promising-looking set of screwdrivers, providing you can manage with bits for PH3 and PZ3, and supplied with a lifetime guarantee.

DRAPER EXPERT EIGHTPIECE HEAVYDUTY SOFTGRIP SCREWDRIVER SET

PART NUMBER: 63589 PRICE: £35 FROM: Draper Tools WEB: www.drapertools.com CONTACT: 023 8049 4333

 A no-nonsense set of eight screwdrivers that promise better torsional properties than chrome vanadium because they have SVCM+ steel shafts. We couldn’t find out what SVCM+ stands for, but discovered plenty of information explaining that it’s a type of shock-resistant steel and the + symbol means it has been tempered to achieve a greater degree of hardness.

Draper’s online description of this set of screwdrivers says that it’s supplied in a PVC storage case, but ours arrived in plastic disposable packaging. Just as confusing is the bias of flatblade/slotted screwdrivers versus Phillips (called cross slot by Draper) and Pozidriv (PZ). There are four flatblade/ slotted screwdrivers ranging in width from 3mm to 8mm (and in shaft length from 75mm to 150mm), yet there are only two cross slot screwdrivers (PH1 and PH2, 75mm and 100mm) and similarly, only two Pozidrivs of the same specifications.

We did, however, like the quality and feel of the screwdrivers, particularly the soft-grip handles with useful labelling on the ends of each one that’s a lot easier to read than having it displayed along the length of the handle that can easily get covered in oil and dirt. The handles promise to be solvent-resistant, and they are easy to wipe clean, although the black rubberised sections may need more of a scrub, but perhaps that’s the price you pay for a better grip. Don’t be fooled by the flats at the base of each handle, which are not there for fitting an open-ended screwdriver – there are only five of them, so a spanner will not fit. However, we did like the holes at the top of each handle, enabling each screwdriver to be hung on a hook. And we were pleased to see that these screwdrivers are supplied with a lifetime warranty. As a replacement for your old screwdrivers, this set could do with a couple of stubbies and perhaps an extra PH and PZ.

 A potentially promising-looking set of screwdrivers with hammer thru’ for impact use and S2 steel octagonal shafts ranging in length from 75mm to 125mm. Confusingly, there are only two screwdrivers to cater for crosshead fastenings and they are only Pozidriv PZ1 and PZ2 (there are no Phillips PH tips), whereas there are four flatblade/slotted tips, ranging from 3.5mm wide to 6.5mm. Surely substituting two of the flatblade/slotted screwdrivers for Phillips would have been better?

We liked the flat tops of each screwdriver that provide a large area for hitting it with a hammer. We also liked the clear labelling on the rubberised handle of each screwdriver, which is displayed on a plastic surface that’s easy to wipe clean. These screwdrivers won’t replace your existing collection, but they are a useful and seemingly robust addition that you may find you rely on more and more, providing you don’t have an extensive range of Phillips screws to undo.

Scott Irwin

MIMI, Head

of Technical Training at TMD Friction’s aftermarket brake brand, Mintex, tells

 Being at the forefront of braking technology for more than 100 years, Mintex has continued to provide a complete aftermarket solution, delivering high braking standards and safely braking millions of families and motorsport champions worldwide.

However, while most mechanics concur with Mintex’s exceeding standards and replace brakes efficiently, some are cutting corners to save time, meaning simple tasks such as cleaning rust and dirt are often overlooked. Here, Mintex provides best practice tips, making sure these simple, yet effective steps aren’t ignored, which ultimately ensures customers don’t return with complaints such as brake judder.

flange. Once removed, use a brake cleaner to clean the surface and check the cleaned hub with a measuring gauge, such as a DTI gauge (product code: MTL1033), for any possible lateral run-out deviations.

During the cleaning process, it’s important to take great care not to damage the caliper bracket.

What lubricant do you need to use?

 Grease the newly cleaned areas with a non-conductive, heat-resistant and solids-free agent such as Mintex Ceratec Advanced Lubricant. Do not apply to the brake surface, or on the back of the pad where is has a FitShim or another noise fix. Also, do not use copper paste on any brake parts as it conducts heat and can react negatively with the vehicle’s ABS system and causes galvanic corrosion with dissimilar metals.

What’s the first stage of the brake repair process?

 Before beginning to repair the brakes, it’s key to look for uneven wear on the discs, as well as checking all components surrounding the axle and examining the hydraulic system or any broken parts. Parts showing signs of heavy wear or defectiveness should be replaced in accordance with the vehicle, system and brake manufacturer’s guidelines.

When dismantled, it’s imperative to remove any rust or residue from the contact surfaces and caliper bucket as this can result in brake judder, which gives a vibration through the brake pedal or steering wheel. To prevent the likelihood of brake judder, use a wire brush or a hub grinder (product code: MTL1018) to get rid of any rust from the contact surfaces and hub

What comes after greasing the disc?

 Fit the new brake disc onto the wheel hub and secure the newly fitted disc with the wheels bolts or nuts and use conical washers to secure. A DTI gauge should be used to check for any lateral run-out. We recommend a lateral run-out of 0.07mm below the maximum radius.

Ensure the pistons are put back into the caliper correctly

 Using the correct adjusting tools, the brake piston(s) must be moved back into position, taking note of any brake fluid that may spill out of the brake fluid reservoir. Also, be sure to pay attention to the different versions of the caliper and brake systems, as well as manufacturer-specific requirements and special tools.

Let’s not forget aftercare?

 To optimise braking performance, Mintex recommends the new brakes require approximately 200 miles to become fully conditioned. Hard or aggressive braking must be avoided during this period as it can affect the overall performance of the new system.

Brake gently from a maximum speed of 30mph/50kmh to ensure the coating does not become embedded in the friction surface of the brake pads.

Chinese badge engineering

he badge-engineered MG6 is based on the Chinese Roewe 550, reviving what MG became well known for doing to the Metro, Maestro and Montego. Although manufactured in China, the assembly of the MG6 was completed at Longbridge and lasted from 2010 to 2016. One of the most popular engines was the 1849cc twin-cam, common-rail diesel engine (available between 2014 and 2016), which is the one we’re servicing here with independent MG specialist Retro

Sports Cars. There was also a 1.8-litre turbocharged petrol, which was dropped in 2015 when the MG6 was facelifted.

Working on the MG6 is relatively straightforward for most of the servicing jobs. The cabin filter is potentially finger-crunching (see step 12) and the fuel filter is hidden by the battery and its tray, so they need to be taken out first. Otherwise, be prepared for some parts to be expensive, should you need them. A new front lower arm, for instance, costs £210 and a genuine radiator is £325.

Rob says

According to Retro Sports Cars, the fuel filter on the diesel engine MG6 is available as a complete assembly, which costs a whopping £274, although dealers are also selling a separate spin-on filter for £50, but the separate spin-on aftermarket filter shown in step 21 was found for £30.

Prise the cover off the top of the engine, then inspect the fuel hoses and breather pipes for perishing and leaks. The cover needs to be removed to complete several other engine jobs.

1 2

REMOVE ENGINE COVER

5 UNDERBONNET CHECKS

TOP-UP SCREENWASH

Lift the blue cap for the screenwash reservoir and top-up with the appropriate solution (not washing-up liquid). Operate the windscreen washers to check the spray from the washer jets is sufficient.

CHECK COOLANT LEVEL

Check the level of the translucent coolant reservoir is between the MIN and MAX markers on the side – shine a torch to help check the level. Top-up with whatever coolant has been used before.

3 4

SQUEEZE HOSES

CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL

Shine a torch on the side of the brake fluid reservoir in the offside corner of the engine bay. The level should be up to the MAX marker on the side of the reservoir. Top-up with DOT 4 fluid, or whatever has been used before.

GREASE BONNET RELEASE

Spray grease over the locking mechanism for the bonnet (on the top of the slam panel). Apply a little grease to all the door locks and hinges (including the tailgate). Operate them several times to work the grease inside.

CHECK PAS FLUID

Wipe over the power steering fluid reservoir cap, unscrew it, and wipe its dipstick clean before reinserting and removing it to check the level – look for markers on the dipstick. Top-up if required with CHF 202 fluid.

6

CHECK AUXILIARY BELT

The ribbed auxiliary drive belt can be partially inspected from above the engine bay (offside). Shine a torch around the belt and look for cracks across the ribs and fraying.

Extra

wear protection for the

engine

10

INSPECT FUSEBOX

There’s a small fusebox next to the battery, which also contains several relay switches. Release the plastic clips for its lid to look inside and see if there is any corrosion or damp.

11

REPLACE AIR FILTER

The air filter is located inside a plastic housing. Undo four crosshead screws that may be heavily corroded. Extract the old filter, clean inside the housing and fit a new one. The filter shown here is a reusable K&N, so only needs cleaning.

12

REPLACE CABIN FILTER

The cabin filter is awkward to access. Detach the trim panel across the scuttle panel to find it, then carefully extract it, remove any debris and fit a new one. There’s just enough room to do this without having to fully remove any trim.

13

DISCONNECT BATTERY

The fuel filter is between the battery and the nearside of the engine bulkhead. There’s no room to access it without removing the battery. Disconnect the wiring to its terminals and suspend the large positive connection.

REMOVE BATTERY

Look for a 10mm mounting bolt that secures the fabric strap to hold the battery in position. Undo this bolt, then carefully lift the battery out of the engine bay and place aside.

UNDO BATTERY TRAY BOLTS

The battery tray is secured with four Torx T40 bolts that can be seized, so spray over them with penetrating fluid first. If any of their heads have rounded off, they will need to be drilled out.

MOVE BATTERY TRAY

Undo a couple of 13mm bolts that secure the ECU to the battery tray, detach the wiring that’s clipped to the side of the tray and also the ECU, then the battery tray can be moved aside.

FIND FUEL FILTER

With the battery tray out of the way, the fuel filter can be seen. Detach a couple of fuel hoses attached to it, along with a couple of electrical plugs and a plug on the base.

18

REMOVE FUEL FILTER

Undo two 13mm bolts that secure the fuel filter in position, then carefully lift it up and out of its mounting. Make sure all the fuel hoses and electrical connectors mentioned in the last step have been detached.

19

DRAIN FUEL

Positioned over a container, unscrew the sensor from the base of the fuel filter and drain the fuel. Do not reuse this fuel as it will be contaminated with water.

REFIT FILTER, RUN ENGINE

Refit the filter assembly into the engine bay and reconnect all the hoses and plugs. Refit the battery, then switch on the ignition several times to help prime the new filter. Try to start the engine.

TOP TIP

Release the oil filler cap to help increase airflow when draining the oil.

25

DRAIN ENGINE OIL

Undo the 17mm oil drain plug and leave the old engine oil to drain into a waste container for several minutes. Afterwards, fit a new drain plug and tighten it to 20Nm.

20 21

FIT SENSOR

Check there are no remains of a seal on the sensor that was removed in the last step –there’s a new seal on the base of the filter. Screw the sensor into the base of the new filter.

REMOVE OLD FILTER

Secure the body of the fuel filter in a vice, then use water pump pliers to unscrew the old filter. Check it’s the same shape and size as the new one, then fit the new filter by hand.

REMOVE OIL FILTER

Using a 36mm socket, unscrew the oil filter, which is located at the back of the engine bay. This should be done before draining the engine oil to allow the oil from the filter housing to drain down first.

REMOVE UNDERTRAY

The engine undertray needs to be removed to be able to access the oil drain plug. It’s secured with eight 10mm bolts, which may be heavily corroded, so spray over them with penetrating fluid first.

26

FIT NEW OIL FILTER

Return to the top of the engine bay and extract the old oil filter from its plastic housing. Renew the seal around the housing, click a new filter into it, then refit and tighten to 25Nm.

27

5W-30 FULLY-SYNTHETIC

Measure five litres of 5W-30 fully-synthetic oil into a clean jug, then pour this into the engine. Check the level on the dipstick. It should be between the MIN and MAX markers but may be a little higher.

RUN ENGINE

Refit the oil filler cap, start the engine and check the oil pressure warning light goes out on the dashboard. Switch off, check around the engine for leaks, then recheck the level on the dipstick, which should now be halfway between the MIN and MAX markers.

CHECK TYRES

Inspect the condition of the tyres, looking for damage and bulges in the sidewalls and uneven tread wear. Look for the tread wear indicators between the tread blocks to help measure the depth of the tread. Check the tyre pressures.

INSPECT WIPER BLADES

Lift each wiper blade (including the rear wiper) and check the condition of the rubber that contacts the glass. Look for splits and tears in the rubber.

CHECK FUEL CAP SEAL

Release the fuel filler flap and unscrew the cap. Inspect the condition of the seal, which if damaged, could result in fumes escaping and if spotted at the MOT test could result in a fail.

UNDERSIDE INSPECTION

CHECK BRAKE DISCS

Visually inspect the condition of the brake discs through the spokes of the road wheels. Use a pair of Vernier calipers (or digital ones) to measure the thickness of the brake discs and see if there’s a noticeable lip on the outer edge, which could suggest the disc is worn.

CHECK PADS

Use a brake pad thickness gauge to measure the depth of the friction material on the inner and outer brake pads. For the MOT test, it should be a minimum of 1.5mm. We recommend at least 3mm so there’s enough material to last until the next service.

PINCH BOOTS

Squeeze the rubber gaiters on the ends of the driveshafts to look for cracks and the risk of grease escaping. If found, water and dirt can get inside the gaiters. Make sure each gaiter is securely fitted with suitable clips.

WIGGLE DROPLINKS

Shake the droplinks and the ends of the front and rear anti-roll bars to feel for excessive movement, which can result in a knocking noise when driving. A replacement droplink costs £27 or £44 (front/rear) and mounting bushes for the ARB cost around £16 for a pair.

INSPECT FRONT LOWER ARMS

Using a pry bar, check all of the bushes and the outer balljoint on the front lower suspension arms. Inspect the overall condition of the lower arm for corrosion –a replacement costs around £210.

CHECK ENGINE MOUNT

Use a pry bar to check the condition of the rubber bushes in the lower engine mount. The bushes can be replaced for polyurethane, or a new mount costs from around £50.

CHECK EXHAUST

Check the condition of the exhaust system, ensuring all hangers and clamps are secure and not damaged. If it’s safe to do so, run the engine to listen and feel for leaks from the exhaust system.

CHECK REAR LOWER ARMS

Use a pry bar to check the condition of the inner and outer mounting points for the rear lower suspension arms. Check over the arms for corrosion, particularly where the coil spring is sat.

CHECK REAR BEAM BUSH

Visually inspect the condition of the large rubber bushes that secure the rear beam and subframe to the bodywork. Also, check the condition of the subframe, looking for corrosion or even serious rot.

INSPECT BRAKE PIPES

Check all exposed brake pipes for corrosion and leaks. Clean any surface corrosion to make sure it hasn’t damaged the walls of the pipes. Also, check any brake flexi-hoses for perishing and leaks.

CHECK FRONT COIL SPRINGS

Inspect the front coil springs for fractures and corrosion. They can be viewed over the tops of the front tyres. Check the body of the MacPherson struts for excessive corrosion.

Help!

FORD CMAX

Reconnected wire

QI have had some problems with my 2004 Ford C-MAX 1.6 diesel. Whilst fiddling around with the plastic scuttle at the base of the windscreen I noticed that the two-wire terminal at the top of the fuel filter was disconnected, so I connected it, but was wary as to whether it was left off for a reason.

When restarting the engine it ran for a short while then died. I could not restart it. I then disconnected the same terminal but still no luck, at best it tried but would only run for a couple of seconds occasionally. I gave-up when the rain coupled with a depleted battery stopped play.

I have the feeling that the filter has emptied and not been allowed to refill for some reason due to the terminal being connected and tomorrow I will have to fill and bleed the filter. I think Haynes describe the connector as a water switch or similar. Do you have any idea on the terminal and its function?

The filter seems to be the less common type with one outlet on the top going backwards and the other at the rear not easily visible. I have had no problems of this nature before.

Dean Savage

AThere should be two connections on the top of the fuel filter, one for the water sensor – and this should illuminate the dash light if the presence of water is detected by the sensor, and the other is the fuel filter heater unit – this heats the fuel to prevent waxing on cold starts in the winter months.

The only scenario I can imagine that would cause the problem you have after connecting the wire is that the wire you have connected is the heater unit, which is overheating and possibly boiling the diesel. This would then create an air lock in the system, or it may have cracked the filter housing allowing air to be introduced.

Another consideration is that reconnecting the wire was one of those rare coincidences that can throw you off the track, but I would certainly follow the actions you have describe of bleeding out the system to ensure that air is not the source of the problems you are having.

It may also be advisable to check the wires that were refitted to ensure the relay

FORD KA

problems

Central locking

QI have a question about my 2010 Ford Ka 1.2 Mk2. I am finding it hard to unlock the vehicle with the key fob. I have changed the battery inside the fob, and it still has a job to unlock and lock. I have fitted a new 12V battery as well. Have you any advice on why my Ka has a job to unlock, etc. I do have to be really close to the car but then it still takes it time opening.

The key blade works OK, it is just pressing the unlock and lock button on the fob that’s the problem. It never used to be like that – it just opened on the first press, but now it takes about five times pressing the button on fob to open, then will not and have to use the key blade.

Also how do I remove the front Ford badge on the bonnet please?

Jayne Newbury

AThe central locking system is controlled by the vehicles body computer. The unit receives the signal via the aerial, which is located in the nearside door pillar. This connects to the body computer behind the passenger glovebox.

The readers photo of the bonnet badge she would like to remove.

The connections to the computer and the aerial should be checked, and it is possible that the aerial signal is not getting a good enough connection to operate. As the doors will lock and unlock using the key, then I am sure that the central locking system is operating correctly, and the problem will be with the signal from the key-fob to the aerial.

The front Ford badge is held in place with clips and will need to be gently prised off using a nylon tool to prevent damage to the paintwork.

for the heater unit (number 5 in the interior fusebox) is operational and not constantly on, this relay is powered by the fuse number 24 in the underbonnet fusebox.

FORD FUSION

Rear heater blows fuse

QI would appreciate if you could help with my dodgy rear screen heater on my 2009 Ford Fusion 1.4 petrol. It works for a day or two and then the 20-amp fuse blows.

I’ve followed the wiring along the bottom right-hand side and up to the roof and then lost it when it enters the tailgate. Is this a common fault or am I looking in the wrong direction please?

Mike Fenn

AThe 20-amp fuse which is blowing I am taking to be fuse number 26 in the main fuse board. This is the one which protects the circuit for the heated rear screen relay and is labelled as the multi-function control module. As there are other fuses in the circuit

which should protect the GEM (Generic Electronic Module) module and as the other functions performed by the GEM module are I presume operating without blowing any of the associated fuses, then I would suspect that the problem is due to a wiring short at some point in the rear screen heater circuit. This is also the direction that you are investigating. The most likely position for this to occur would be in the short section of loom between the rear tailgate and the body. As this loom is contained in a rubber sleeve it may be difficult at first to detect the problem, but a cracked wire in this area would be the most likely source of the problem. This loom flexes at every opening and closing of the rear hatch and after a few years of use is commonly found to create problems.

With this in mind I would also check if the blowing of the fuse is in anyway connected with perhaps the rear wiper being operated. This may suggest an overload of the earth circuit from the rear tailgate and another possible reason for the failure.

You may need to use an ohm meter to check the continuity of the circuit between the wire you can access and the terminal at the screen. This may then help confirm the source of the problem.

Your non-diagnostic vehicle-related

solved by Steve Rothwell

ROVER 75

ABS light

QI have a problem with my daughter's 2003 Rover 75 Tourer 1.8 turbo (K16 engine). The ABS light came on, so I took it to my local garage, and they put their up-to-date scanner on it, but they cannot get into the ABS system. It says, error occurred accessing ECU.

They wondered if their scanner had dropped some of the old vehicles out of the database. They lent me their old Snap-on scanner MT2500 which has the electronic key inserts. I’ve been through the set-up imputing the vehicle details and read all the other systems, but it also says error connecting to the ABS. It appears the readers can’t connect to the ABS ECU.

She did have a problem with the speedo reading – as the car was running the speedo would fall back to zero or a low speed (10 or 20mph). Reading on Rover 75 forums they said it would be the driver’s side ABS lead or bearing, so I changed them. The speedo seems fine now, but the ABS light stays lit and we cannot get into it to determine if there is another ABS fault. Have you any pointers to fix this problem?

The Rover only has 51,881 miles, it would be a shame to have to break it because of this fault.

Paul Brook

AUsing a scanner with the correct software you should be able to access the ABS system on the Rover 75 and as neither tool that has been tried has been able to access the ECU it may be the case that the

Front suspension

QI am worried about the fitting torque settings on my 2004 Rover 45 1.6, as I have just replaced the lower arm. On fitting the new rubber bush, I tighten the nuts up on the fitting and found they pull up to end of the threads compressing the bush down low before the torque of 22Nm.

Have I made a mistake?

Mike Kent

AYou have completed the procedure correctly and it is normal for the bushes to be compressed when the nut is torqued down. There are various systems used with the link arm bushes, and on yours the thread is set at the correct length to ensure the correct pressure is in the bush when tightened down.

Alternative systems would use a collar within the bush to limit the pressure exerted in use.

It also important to note that the final tightening of the link arm nuts should be done with the vehicle sitting on the ground.

connection to the ABS ECU is at fault, and this is preventing the scanner from communicating with the control unit.

I would first check the multiplug to the ABS control unit/modulator to ensure that no signs of corrosion can be seen on the multiplug or terminals.

If no fault can be found with the plug, then the feeds should be checked to the ABS unit to ensure it does have both working feeds and earths correctly powering the unit.

Looking at the plug you should see six large terminals and 36 small terminals, with the six large terminals at the top of the plug and facing you the large terminals are numbered 1-6 from left to right, this makes number one terminal the one closest to the outer edge of the plug. The small terminals continue on with 7, 8, 9, 10 on the top row then 11, 12

appropriately every 5K and this does seem to reduce the frequency of the start-up chatter.

I had a Google (bad idea!) and there seems to be a fix that Vauxhall has developed with a gasket that needs to be fitted but it is quite a big job to do. Have you any information on this?

etc., on the second row and 27-42 on the bottom row.

Using a voltmeter, terminals 2 and 6 should read battery voltage with the ignition off and terminals 1 and 5 should be directly connected to earth. Terminal 23 should read battery voltage with the ignition turned on.

The feed to the data link/EOBD socket and the ABS light is number 11 and it may also be worth checking this with a continuity meter. This should run through to terminal 8 on the datalink connector.

If all these feeds are present, and the scanner will still not connect to the ABS ECU, then it may be the case that the unit will need to be sent for repair. Ecu Testing (www.ecutesting.com) or BBA-Reman (www.bba-reman.com) could carry this out, testing and repairing the unit and then returning it with a full guarantee.

removing the old belt and feeding the new belt into place.

The belt is fitted from the crankshaft pulley in a clockwise direction around the tensioner, then driving the alternator, going under the guide wheel before driving the water pump and aircon compressor.

VAUXHALL ASTRA

Auxiliary belt replacement

I run an Astra diesel with the 1.6 Whisper engine. I wondered if you could advise me on how to change the auxiliary belt? It’s a 2016 model K and done about 55,000 miles so I thought it might need looking at.

On a separate matter I am still occasionally getting the chatter on start-up (timing chain tensioner?). I’m changing the oil

My thoughts are to keep changing the oil at half scheduled changes and hope this keeps the engine from any premature timing chain wear.

Ian Browning

Q AThe replacement of the auxiliary drive belt will require that the undershield is removed. The replacement is simple and only requires that the automatic tensioner is turned anti-clockwise to release the pressure on the belt. The tensioner can be locked off at this point using a pin in the top point to keep the tensioner back whilst

Once in position the automatic tensioner can be released (if pinned) to return the pressure/tension to the belt.

There is an improved gasket which should prevent the oil pressure loss from causing the engine chatter on your engine. The timing chain tensioner gasket part number is 55515025 and this effectively creates an oil reserve reservoir for timing chain tensioner, by holding oil in the tensioner when the engine is stopped.

The fitting of the gasket does involve the stripping off of the timing cover and is around a 4.7-hour job. The gasket itself also appears to be quite expensive at £57.

The photo sent by the reader of the anti-roll bar fixing tightened up.

VAUXHALL INSIGNIA

Alternator life

QMay I ask how long you would expect the average alternator to last please? My 2011 2.0 diesel Vauxhall Insignia has done about 120,000 miles and I would rather change the alternator at the best time than let it break down.

Thank you for an interesting magazine.

Dylan Montell

AThis really is a difficult question to answer as of course different circumstances can allow an earlier failure. If I were to go back to the early seventies I knew a mechanic who would always replace the alternator, starter and battery on any vehicle he bought – he was adamant it saved him from ever breaking down, but of course modern vehicles are more reliable now.

Having been through a number of past records on vehicles I have maintained over a long period, I would give the

average life of an alternator on a modern vehicle to be around 110,000 miles. Some of course will last longer and other less time, but from my records this is the average life.

VAUXHALL ZAFIRA

Cambelt replacement

QMy wife’s car is a 2010 Vauxhall Zafira B with the 1.8 engine (Z18XER). The car has done 72,984 miles and previously had the cambelt and pulleys changed at 44,295 miles (28,689 miles ago). But that was nearly six years ago. I sense a cambelt change might be due on time basis, regardless of the low mileage, but there is conflicting information on internet forums for the official change interval ranging from 100,000 miles/10 years to 60,000 miles/six years and even 40,000 miles/four years – my Haynes manual suggests the lower of these options.

Service airbag message

QI have an issue with a 2017 Vauxhall Corsa 1.4. Here is some history: The vehicle’s clutch was used and there was a noise inside the car. It was used again and there was another noise. After that there was excessive free play at the pedal. I got the vehicle home as it was still driveable in the shortterm. I realised that one of two things must have happened:

1) The pedal return spring had broken.

2) The pedal return spring had parted company from the pedal.

I did some research and realised that the pedal box had to come out which meant removing the dashboard (see photo).

I found that a tiny plastic clip connecting the pedal to the return spring had broken. I contacted Vauxhall who confirmed that the clip was not available separately and that I would need a new pedal box at £600, if I remember correctly, plus 4.5 hours labour.

The new pedal box would obviously still have a plastic clip which would break again, given time. This is apparently a common fault on these cars.

The clip was a complicated shape but using a hacksaw, file and oxy-acetylene, I was able to make my own version out of metal. I

I’ve visually inspected the belt and there are no signs of cracking or wear, but of course I know they can fail with no prior warning signs.

So, my question is, what is the correct official cambelt change interval for this car? Peter Davidge

AThe recommended replacement interval for the timing belt on the Z18XER engine does vary according to the year of production. For your vehicle built between 20062010 the interval is given as every 100,000 miles or ten years. It is also recommended that the crankshaft sprocket be inspected for wear.

The later vehicles built between 2011-2012 have a shorter time recommendation of six years, and this is very likely where the confusion arises, although the same distance of 100,000 miles is still applicable.

Given the last change of timing belt on your wife’s Zafira, I would expect this to be next due in a further three years, allowing for a safety margin.

fitted it to the vehicle and reassembled everything. This all took me a fortnight – and the battery was disconnected throughout the repair.

It drives well and the clutch action is back to normal but there is now a ‘Service Airbag’ message on the instrument panel.

This is also apparently a common fault on these cars and when it is repaired by the main dealer they usually claim to have reprogrammed the airbag ECU.

I have a code reader already. I have used it to diagnose and repair a catalytic converter failure on a 2004 Subaru Forester and an EGR issue on a 2008 Land Rover Defender so I know that it works.

However, it seems to just work on engine management issues and cannot help me with this problem with my Corsa. Do you know how I should proceed with this?

Is there such a thing as an airbag ECU fault code reader for example? I would really like to narrow this problem down first before attempting to repair it.

Do you know of any kit which might allow me to reprogram the airbag ECU, assuming this is necessary?

Andrew

AFrom you picture I can see that extensive measures were needed to gain access to the pedal box, and the airbag was taken out to allow the steering wheel to be removed.

I suspect that the system does only need resetting as is the case with quite a few vehicles. Whilst many can be dismantled and reassembled without issue, on some when the airbag circuit is disconnected the codes do need to be cleared on re-assembly.

Many code readers do only cover the engine systems as these are covered by the European on-board diagnostic socket regulations, whist the airbag and SRS systems often have a different protocol.

There are a number of tools that can be used to read and clear the airbag faults such as the Foxwell NT680 Lite 4 Systems Scan Tool at £199 from gendan.co.uk or the LAUNCH CRP123 PREMIUM at £180 from launchtech.co.uk

With a suitable reader I am sure it should be possible to retrieve and clear any associated codes, without the need for any reprogramming. If there is a fault present in the system, the code given should allow this to be discovered and rectified.

If reprogramming were needed, then professional level equipment would be required, and I would in this case recommend using the dealer, as re-writing the software may cause irreversible damage if not correctly executed.

VAUXHALL CORSA

Reader’s photo of the interior of his Corsa stripped out.

FIAT BRAVO

EGR valve blanking

QI have a 2008 Fiat Bravo 1.9 Multijet. When I bought it two years ago I blanked off the EGR valve because it was faulty, but the OBD light remained on. Is there a resistor that can be plugged into the loom to extinguish the light?

Tony Burbridge

AGiven the choice, I would rather replace or repair the EGR valve than blank it off. Although dirty EGR valves do cause problems, when working correctly they reduce the combustion temperature and harmful emissions emitted from the exhaust.

The code I would presume you are getting is ‘P0401’, which indicates flow insufficient. The PCM needs to actually detect a change in the values otherwise the code will be flagged, so a resistor in the circuit will not fool the system. The alternatives are to fit a blanking plate with a small hole to allow gases to pass through the EGR valve – this, of course, requires a working EGR valve – or else the system can be remapped to prevent the light from coming on, although this would require specialist equipment.

FIAT PUNTO

Brake bleeding

QLast year, a garage charged me £470 to fit a new master cylinder to my 1997 Fiat Punto Mk1 with ABS as they said they couldn’t bleed the brakes after fitting some new lines. The brakes have never felt very good underfoot – they worked OK, but the pedal was a bit spongy and the car has always felt too heavy for the brakes, with the pedal only coming alive during heavy stops. After the new master cylinder was fitted, I expected the brakes to be superb, but a year on and the pedal still feels a bit springy, despite discs and pads, a cleaning of the calipers and sliders, new vacuum hose and one-way valve, plus numerous bleeds and fluid flushes. Pumping it up when moving doesn’t improve the feel or bring it higher up.

My research suggests any new master cylinder should be bench-bled. Is this fact or fiction? The master cylinder does sit at an upwards-facing angle, so it’s plausible that air is trapped at the front. Is it worth removing it and bleeding it on the bench or is the system commercial pressure bleed only? I’m not sure if the ABS is holding air.

FIAT PANDA

HT lead corrosion

Have you ever come across really badly corroded High Tension lead plugs? It’s on my daughter's Fiat Panda which is used all the time, but it was playing up today and when I checked the leads – two terminals practically fell apart, yet I can’t see why because they stand vertical and are moulded in rubber.

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Dave Bennett

Q A

Yes, this is something that can occur and even though they are moulded in rubber and protected, the corrosion will occur due to the electrical reaction between the plug and lead. If the circuit begins to build up a resistance, then this will increase the problem and so increase the corrosion.

This is less of a problem where the connection is well protected by the rubber outer casing, but is certainly something which does still regularly occur.

I am also considering renewing the caliper spring clips, as they could be worn. My understanding is that they hold the caliper and carrier together to ensure the outer pad comes into contact with the disc squarely and that loose or worn springs can lead to a springy feel at the pedal. A replacement set only costs £6, so I have ordered some to rule that out.

Stuart Clarke

FIAT PUNTO

Steering issue

The ABS unit incorporates systems for brake pressure regulation. Given that the problem first occurred on your vehicle after the pipes were replaced, I suspect the system and ABS unit may have drained down. This could explain why the hydraulic brake system was difficult to bleed.

A

The Fiat manual doesn’t specify a particular bleeding method and does not suggest that the master cylinder needs to be bled before fitting. As the outlet pipes would not be connected, there would be a limited possibility for this to work. When bleeding the brakes, I would bleed the system with the ignition on. This could allow the ABS unit to purge itself of any air that may remain in the system.

To ensure the problem is not down to a caliper drawing in air, all four flexible brake hoses should be clamped off and the brake pedal tested – it should be fairly solid. Releasing each clamp in turn will help to identify any problem area. For instance, if releasing the nearside front clamp results in far greater pedal travel than when the offside front clamp is released, this would highlight a possible problem with the caliper or hose on the nearside front. After extensive attempts to bleed the system without any success, it may be the case that the servo unit is at fault; this might explain the extended travel and lack of pressure.

The brake caliper spring clips are designed to stop vibration at the brake pad, which may result in a squeal, but at £6 they are certainly worth fitting.

QI have a 54-plate Fiat Punto Active 1.2 petrol which has developed a steering issue. In the straight ahead position, and most noticeable at tickover, the wheel vibrates a few millimetres from left to right, as though it is trying to find dead centre. It seems to be accompanied by a noise from the electric steering motor. This problem was not preceded by any work on the steering or battery, I haven’t kerbed the front wheels, nor is the steering failure light illuminated.

Apart from this, the steering operation is fine, but I don’t want it to develop into a more serious issue.

Russell Munn

AAlthough it’s not the most common fault that occurs with the Fiat electric steering system, a vibration through the steering wheel is one of the possible results of a failing column. I would inspect the lower steering column U/J to ensure that the pinch bolt is tight and check for any wear in the joint itself. Providing this is secure and there’s no mechanical wear, you may be looking at the early signs of steering column failure. The ECU in the steering column controls the balance of the column and is calibrated to the output from the torque/position sensor. Code reading the system with a Fiat dedicated scanner should help to confirm if any faults are within the system.

If the unit does require replacing, there are two options available from www.ecutesting.com. They will either supply an exchange unit complete with the ECU for £160 + VAT and shipping, or they will test and rebuild your unit for £120 + VAT and shipping. Both units carry a lifetime guarantee.

KIA PICANTO

Rear brake adjustment

I have a 2009 Kia Picanto 2 with drum brakes at the rear. Although the brake shoes are good, the handbrake comes up about eight notches. Is it possible to adjust the rear brakes by hand? They are different from the usual adjusters in that they haven’t got a threaded bar.

John Evans

AThe specifications from Autodata do indicate that the handbrake should be set at eight notches, although there is some confusion as it appears the Picanto changed from rear disc brakes to drum brakes. From the details I have, the adjuster is the snail cam-type which moves a serrated cam as the shoes push out. When the shoes move sufficiently for the cam to travel another notch, the adjustment is made

Brake fluid loss

by preventing the shoes from returning, so the gap between the drum and the shoe is reduced.

This type of adjuster is quite efficient but, as with all automatic adjusters, there is normally slight room for a manual tweak. You can do this by placing a screwdriver between the shoe and the wheel cylinder and pushing the shoe outward. You should be careful not to over-adjust the shoes, which could cause the brakes to drag and overheat.

There is also the possibility that the serrated cam has stuck in place, in which case it will need freeing off before any adjustment can be made. To do this, the brake shoes will need to be removed.

KIA CEED

‘Water in fuel’ light on

The ‘water in fuel’ light on my 2007 Kia cee’d 1.6 CRDi is puzzling me. It comes on after about 30 minutes (15-20 miles) and stays on for about 10 seconds, then goes off. It’s been doing this

every day for about 1000 miles.

I’ve drained the filter but there didn’t seem to be any water in it.

I also tried a bottle of Wynn’s Dry Fuel in the tank, but it made no difference. Do you think I have a duff sensor, or do I actually have water in the fuel tank?

Les Lumb

You do not mention actually replacing the filter, and if you have not already done this I would renew the filter to ensure that it is not retaining moisture. The sensor is quite sensitive and when draining it down, some moisture may be retained in the filter element.

If you have already replaced as well as drained the filter and checked the contents for water, I would suspect that the sensor in the fuel filter is at fault. This detects any sign of water by generating an alternating voltage to the probe tip. The presence of water completes the circuit which, in turn, changes the condition of the transistor output, putting on the light.

As you say that the light always comes on after around 30 minutes of driving, I suspect that this is a temperature-induced problem and occurs only under the conditions met by the 15-20 miles drive.

I have a problem with my 64-plate Kia Sportage 2.0 CRDi with 49,000 miles. I noticed the fluid level in the brake master reservoir had dropped, yet there are no leaks in the braking system.

The clutch system is fed from the same reservoir and there appears to be fluid weeping from the device between the clutch master cylinder and the clutch housing (see picture). What is this device, what does it do, and could it be leaking? It looks easy enough to change but how would I bleed the clutch system?

Have you come across this problem?

Jim Millard

The unit is to absorb any shock/ vibration between the clutch release system and the pedal, so in effect a hydraulic vibration damper. It is likely that is could leak or draw in air and would be quite simple to change.

The clutch will need bleeding out afterwards, and according to the information I have, your Sportage with the 2.0 CRDi engine may have either an external or internal (concentric) slave cylinder, although this will make little difference to the method of bleeding out the clutch.

If you have an assistant who can operate the clutch pedal whist you open and close the bleed screw the bleeding out can be done by attaching a hose to the bleed screw which is then placed in a catch container. Then after opening the bleed screw have your assistant push the clutch pedal to the floor. The bleed screw is then tightened up after which the assistant should slowly release the clutch pedal back to the rest position.

Repeating this procedure a few times should ensure all the air is expelled from the system. The level of the brake/clutch fluid should be kept topped-up during the process.

If initially the fluid does not flow it may help to pump up the clutch pedal and then whilst holding it down release the bleed screw. This should give a sudden flow of fluid and can help disperse any air trapped in the pipes.

Surprisingly enough when I checked that the damper was available as a separate unit (which it is) I was rather shocked at its £140 plus VAT price tag.

KIA RIO Brake

pads

I want to change the front and rear brake pads on a 2012 Kia Rio 1.2. I believe the rear pistons need to be turned back in? Apart from checking the brake fluid level when I push the pistons back, will there be any issues with the ABS system?

Dave Fisher

When replacing the rear brake pads, you can providing there is room for the returning brake fluid, safely wind in the pistons without any problems occurring with the ABS system. After replacing the brake pads and then fitting the brake calipers back into position, the brake pedal should be pumped up to reposition the pads before then checking the handbrake operation.

You should also ensure that the handbrake levers on the rear of the brake calipers are fully back on the stop when the handbrake is off. If this is not the case the automatic adjusting mechanism on the brake calipers will not operate correctly and it can result in a loss of effort from the handbrake.

The torque setting for the brakes are:

Front caliper to carrier 27Nm +/- 4Nm

Front caliper carrier to hub 88Nm +/- 10Nm

Rear caliper to carrier 27Nm +- 4Nm rear caliper carrier to hub 54Nm +/- 5Nm When refitting the wheels the torque setting is 98Nm +/- 10Nm.

KIA SPORTAGE

Readers picture of the clutch damper.

HONDA

CIVIC

Stop-Start system

QI own a 2018 Honda Civic 1.5 Prestige. It drives well and is a very comfortable motor, but for one problem. The Stop-Start very rarely works and the battery symbol appears each time it does not operate.

The battery went flat and as it was under warranty I returned in to the garage, who looked into matter. They said that everything seemed OK. They advised me to have several longer journeys to charge-up the battery. I did this but the Stop-Start still rarely works. I test the battery regularly and the voltage is always around 12.4. Is this a problem with this system or will I need to top-up the battery every once in a while to prevent a battery failure in the future.

Ian Jones

AThe criteria for the Stop-Start system to operate is quite exacting, and not only does the battery need to be at a good voltage, the engine is required to be at full running temperature and the heater and ventilation system needs to be stable. So it is often the case with a vehicle which regularly is only used for shorter runs, that the Stop-Start system will fail to operate.

I would say that the failure of the system to operate is not detrimental to the running of the vehicle and providing the engine starts in normal use then it is not necessary to charge the battery just to ensure that the Stop-Start system will function.

To summarise, if you feel happier with the engine stopping at junctions, then keeping your battery on a conditioning charge when the vehicle is not being used will assist the criteria to be fulfilled for the system. But the system not operating will neither cause damage or lessen the functionality of your Honda in any other way.

HONDA JAZZ

Oil explained

I bought a 2016 Honda Jazz 1.3 with 27,000 miles on the clock. It came with a full Honda service history. I am trying to work out what oil to use at its annual service. The Honda service book indicates, US Honda ENG Oil # 1.0, or Honda Green oil. Further information indicates, Honda ENG # 1.0 is formulated to improve fuel economy. If Honda ENG oil #1.0, or Honda green oil, or 0W-20 is not available, use 5W-30 or 0W-30.

Looking at the service sheet, the last two

HONDA ACCORD

Captive nut

QReferring to the attached diagram and the arm numbered 11, I’m attempting to replace this on my 2005 Honda Accord 2.4 VTEC. I’ve managed to release the bolt numbered 26, but I’m having trouble with the bolt at the other end.

I was advised that I’d have to cut through it and replace it with a new one if I couldn’t get it loosened. I went to a Honda dealer and bought replacement bolts, but they couldn’t tell me whether the nut at its end is captive or loose. It’s not shown on the diagram, which makes me think it’s captive. I don’t want to grind through the bolt only to have more problems removing it. I started to round the bolt head and am now tempted to use a special socket with a reverse thread inside that digs into the bolt head. I’m not sure how to proceed.

Gary Mills

Diagram sent in by the reader.

AAs you say, the nut is not shown on the parts diagram and this would suggest to me that it’s captive. As you have realised, this means that cutting through the bolt would leave you with the thread of the bolt left in the captive nut. The most likely reason for the difficulty you are having is that the body of the bolt has seized in the metal sleeve in the bush. Once the bolt has moved in the bush it will be easier to remove. This can be confirmed by removing the other end of the arm and attempting to swing it down – if the bolt is stuck in the sleeve, it will not swing freely.

If this is the case, before attempting to remove the bolt, I would make some effort to release the grip between the bolt and the sleeve of the bush – soaking the area in penetrating fluid may help. As you are replacing the arm, then might consider drilling through the arm and bush and into the centre sleeve, as this will allow you to get the penetrating fluid into the section of the sleeve where the bolt is stuck. The problem with this approach is that you will need to drill through the rubber sleeve, which can be messy. A combination of seized components and limited access can make such jobs tricky, but with perseverance the obstacles can be overcome.

oil changes by Honda, the oil has been Shell fully-synthetic 5W-30 – there is no indication what oil was used at its first service, What is Honda ENG oil # 1.0, and Honda Green oil? What oil should I use when changing the oil at the annual service? I find it rather bemusing.

Albert Kirby

AStarting with what oil should you use; my personal choice would be Castrol EDGE 0W-30 A5/B5.

If you wish to stay with the Shell oil the recommendation from Shell for hybrid vehicles is Helix Ultra Professional AF 5W-30, whilst for non-hybrid vehicles they recommend Helix Ultra Professional AS-L 0W-20.

The name Honda green oil refers to its ultra-high fuel efficiency and is not a reference to the colour. They say, “It is an ultra-low emission high performance engine oil designed for use only in

Honda Hybrid Engines.” But then go on to say, “This oil is developed for use in all Honda Hybrid engines and safe for retroactive use in Honda first-generation Hybrid Vehicles.” Strongly recommended for use in all Honda Hybrid vehicles like Insight, Civic IMA, CR-Z and Jazz.

From the information I have, this oil appears to be a 0W-16 oil and the ultra-low viscosity is designed to improve its flow and as a result the efficiency of the engine.

The ENG oil # 1.0 is an oil formulated to give improved economy, but it does not appear to be readily available and little information is released for it.

One of the points I did find interesting is that your Honda dealer has used Shell fully-synthetic 5W-30 and not the Honda recommended oil. Whilst 5W-30 oil is given as an option for your Honda it is not the preferred choice in the range, which is as you have remarked bemusing.

Problem after clutch replacement

QI have just done a clutch change on my Mazda6 but now it won’t start, and something is pulling around 4-amps as soon as I connect the 12V battery. I was careful doing the job and can’t see any chafed wires. I’ve pulled some of the fuses from the fusebox, but the current draw is still there.

The flywheel rotated slightly when doing the clutch (1/8th turn at most) – could this be a clue?

Ian Gabbott

AI will first say that turning the flywheel whilst the gearbox is out will not have a detrimental effect on the engine, and it is quite common to spin the engine over a few times when replacing a clutch.

You have not mentioned if your Mazda is a petrol or diesel version and so I will have to generalise in my reply.

One of the components that can get damaged and would prevent the starting

MAZDA MX5

Non-start

of the engine would be the crankshaft sensor, but on your Mazda, this may be at the pulley end of the engine and so out of harm’s way.

Another point I would consider as you have a drain on the battery as well, is whether a cable has become trapped between the gearbox and engine on re-assembly, this is not uncommon and it can sometimes be difficult to see a wire trapped in a position that may not be easily visible.

It may also be a fuel hose which has become compromised and these should be checked to ensure they are kink-free and not been trapped.

If the visual checks cannot determine a component or wire which has been damaged during the clutch replacement, then the vehicle may need connecting up to a diagnostic scanner to determine the problem.

MAZDA3

Rough running

QMy 2004 Mazda3 TS 1.6 manual with the Z6 engine and 96,000 miles has recently been suffering from rough running and lower-than-normal fuel economy. This is especially noticeable at lower speeds and in cold weather, although it’s present even in warmer conditions. The EML comes on and I get

the code ‘P303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected’, which, if cleared, will usually return after the next cold restart. The car has a professionally-fitted LPG system but, at the moment, running is so poor when on LPG –the car judders to the point of conking out – that I am running it on petrol all the time. It drives better on petrol, but certainly not as well as it should.

I have changed the spark plugs and the coil pack on cylinder 3 (the third in from the offside), but there was no improvement. As the LPG system appears to join electrical connections to the wires leading to the coil packs, I have also resoldered these joints to make sure they were not failing, but again no improvement resulted.

Are you aware of general running problems similar to this on the Mazda3 or can you suggest where I should look for a cause?

I ought to mention that I do have issues with the driver’s door lock, which, on locking remotely, often locks and unlocks then needs re-pressing to lock properly. Although I looked at the wiring at the door hinges, it has made no difference.

John Bentley

AIt is always worth mentioning any issues with the vehicle that could have an influence on the primary problem, however, in this case, I do not believe that the door-locking fault would affect the running of the engine. The lock issue could be due to a sticking lock solenoid and it might be possible to lubricate the mechanism to overcome this problem.

I have inherited a 1992 Mazda MX-5 Euros (K-reg) which started first time, every time. I tried to get it out of the garage, but the clutch must have been stuck – there was a massive jolt and it stalled. Now it won’t start. There is no spark at the plugs – have these got a cut-out/accident button hidden somewhere? Mick Curry

As this is a 1992 model I am presuming it is the 1.6 engine. From the details I have, this engine does not have a cut-off fitted.

As there is no spark at the plugs, it would be worth carefully checking the engine wiring loom and connections to ensure that at the time of the jolt, that a connection has not been broken.

It is possible to read the fault codes out on this vehicle using a test light connected to the FEN terminal in the under bonnet diagnostic connector, and the TEN terminal to earth. The terminals should be marked in the base of the connector cover.

With the ignition turned on the fault codes should be flashed out in the test light – the first digit will be flashed for 1.2 seconds and the second digit will be flashed for 0.4 seconds with a 1.6 second gap between the two digits.

So, two long flashes followed by two short flashes would give the code 22 which indicates a fuel shut off valve problem.

Any codes starting with a seven will indicate an immobiliser or key error.

With regard to the misfire on cylinder three, as this occurs on both LPG and petrol, the possibility of an injection problem can be disregarded, leaving one of two possibilities.

The first and most obvious is the spark generation. As you have replaced the spark plugs and the coil pack, I would check the coil pack supply. Using a voltmeter, pin 2 on the coil pack should be fed with battery voltage – pin 3 is the ground connection and should show less than 0.2V on the meter. Next, test the continuity of the ECU feed. This is between pin 1 on the coil pack and B 2Q on the ECU, and the resistance should be below 1 ohm.

You are correct in saying that the cylinders are numbered one, two, three and four starting at the offside (timing gear end) of the engine. As a very quick test, I would swap the coil packs on cylinders two and three to confirm the problem.

The second possibility is that there is a loss of compression, possibly due to a tight or leaking valve. I would carry out a quick compression test to ensure that all the cylinders are equal. If cylinder three is down on compression, you should ensure the valve clearances on cylinder three are not closed. The valve clearances on your Mazda should be set cold and should be between 0.27-0.33mm.

The diagnostic plug showing the terminals needed to read off the codes using a test light.

NISSAN PIXO

Brake bleeding

When I tested the brake fluid in my 2010 Nissan Pixo using an electronic tester it showed the moisture content being at 3%, thus the fluid requires changing. Reading up on changing brake fluid in cars, the consensus seems to be to not do it the traditional way of pumping the brake pedal as this could damage the seals in the master cylinder – although this didn’t stop the Nissan mechanic from doing it this way when they changed the fluid in 2016.

I bought a Sealey VS820 pressure bleeder, but unfortunately the ‘fits most European models’ claim doesn't extend to Pixo. It also does not fit my 2012 Ford Fiesta Mk7. Both of these have bayonetstyle caps, not the screw-threaded type. Sealey offers a universal adaptor that uses a chain and a clamp, but seeing as they demonstrate it being used wrapped around the cylinder body this is not an option for me, as in both cars the reservoir extends well beyond the cylinder body.

Another company called Alba Diagnostics sells pressure brake bleeding systems, including a separately available adaptor pack that includes attachments for the Pixo and Fiesta Mk7. This would be perfect for my needs but, being a home mechanic, the cost is too high for the amount of use it would get. Instead, I have bought a Vitomile vacuum bleeder.

I understand that pressure bleeding is preferable to vacuum bleeding, but is this because there is a slight chance of introducing air into the system using the vacuum method? The vacuum causes air to enter through the bleed nipple thread when it is in a loosened state. It has been suggested to use PTFE tape on the threads to prevent this from happening, although I can’t see how the air would enter the system – surely it would only appear in the tube with the extracted fluid? Or is there a small amount of air left in the nipple area when it is closed off?

The instructions with the Vitomile vacuum pump say to start the brake bleed from the bleed nipple nearest to the master cylinder and work your way out to the furthest. This is obviously in reverse order from the traditional way, including pressure bleeding. Other vacuum pumps I have researched online say to do it in the order specified by the vehicle manufacturer, but I do not have this information. Other people have suggested that the traditional method of working from the furthest bleed nipple towards the closest is also outdated, because modern cars usually split the two

outputs from the master cylinder diagonally across the car for safety reasons. This means they should be bled in their diagonal order – probably something the manufacturers will specify, but I am not sure where you would find out this information.

Q AFor my Fiesta, I bought an OBD port reader with software that, among other features, allows me to run an ABS pump purge facility to change the fluid. I know of nothing similar for the Pixo and I don’t believe the Nissan mechanic used such a device when he bled the fluid two years ago. It has been suggested online that one way to overcome this is to change the brake fluid, then activate the ABS several times before changing the fluid again. I don’t think I will go this far, but wondered how many mechanics go to the trouble of purging the ABS pump when changing brake fluid? Trevor Nicholson

If you have a problem vehicle, Car Mechanics has the answer in the shape of our technical editor STEVE ROTHWELL. Contact Steve, as detailed below, for FREE advice on all car-related problems. Please help Steve to help you by giving as much information on the symptoms as you can – including the VEHICLE REGISTRATION NUMBER

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Let me first say that I once had a very long discussion as to why the brake fluid reservoir caps could not be made uniform. If a standard design were used, this would greatly help mechanics by eliminating the need for such a wide variety of adapters.

I have found vacuum bleeding to be every bit as good as pressure bleeding and, in some cases, using a vacuum bleeder has advantages. I do not believe using a vacuum bleeder will allow air to enter the system and I am sure this misconception is due to the condition you describe where air can be drawn in through the bleed screw thread and appear in the bleed pipe.

I would not attempt to use PTFE tape on the thread and believe this is unnecessary. The use of diagnostic equipment to operate the ABS unit while bleeding is also not required and the only problems that may occur in this area would be if the hydraulic system became completely dry. This would not happen when changing the brake fluid.

The order in which Nissan recommends the bleed screws to be bled out is as follows: rear left, front right, rear right and front left (left being nearside and right being offside). The level of the master cylinder reservoir should be maintained during the process.

It should be noted that it is as important to bleed modern diagonally split braking systems in the correct order as it was for the older single line systems. The bleed screws should be tightened to 10Nm (7ft/lb).

To access the listed web addresses starting with http://bit.ly just type these into your browser address line, rather than the search engine and they should work as intended.

Sourcing vehicle manuals

CM readers will know that Haynes publish the bibles for automotive mechanics with their authoritative line of owners workshop manuals. The Haynes website at Haynes.com should always be your first port of call when searching for a manual. And if there isn’t a specific manual available for your particular model, it’s worth checking whether your engine was fitted to any other vehicles, as this will give you basic servicing and maintenance advice. It’s also worth emailing Haynes and asking if they have a manual in the works for your vehicle. And bear in mind that Haynes are now producing video tutorials for various makes and models.

Failing that, you may be able to find a workshop manual online that you can download. Although there are a number of sites offering this service, care must be taken to find a reliable source. We have found the website emanualonline.com is a trusted source of digital manuals.

Like virtually all parts of the modern motor car, lighting has become more complicated.

CM finds that owners are not banished entirely from repairing, maintaining and upgrading.

FIAT SEICENTO

Trouble codes

QThis is my son‘s 2001 Fiat Seicento Sporting 1.1 which I think has the FIRE engine in. A couple of days ago he was driving home and the EML came on and it went into limp-mode. He managed to nurse it home and we have done the following: OBD-II code read P0351 - ignition coil primary/secondary circuit malfunction. It has suggested an open circuit.

We have checked the following: ignition coils, which seem to be getting power and sparking. Changed the HT leads as they looked like the originals! I couldn’t see an obvious wire break but didn’t delve too deeply.

I suspect the sensors – yellow ones on top of the injectors (I think) but have struggled to get any off to check – I don’t want to break them if it’s not likely to be them.

I’ve cleared the code, but EML is straight back on (unsurprised!). The car appears to be firing on three cylinders and is obviously idling very roughly. Mechanically I am happy doing things – but electrics have always stumped me a bit so any help gratefully received.

It’s booked in with a local Fiat independent soon, but I would at least like to have done some focused tests to see what it may be – every day’s a school day – regardless of me not liking electrics.

Richard Taylor

AThe code you have P0351 indicates that the ignition coil A, primary/secondary - circuit has a malfunction. This is indicating the coil which supplies cylinders 1 & 4. This may be in the loom, connections or the multiplug to the ECU. It may also be a problem in the ECU itself. But the problem will be in this area.

The first check is to swap the coils around. If the code remains the same then the coil is not the problem, if the code changes to P0352, then the coil is at fault and will need renewing.

If the swapping the coils around does not make a difference, then the next step, as you have already looked at the connecting plug on the coils, would be to check the ECU and look for any signs of corrosion or verdigris on the ECU terminals.

The wire from the coil A should go to terminal 1 on the ECU, and the wire from the coil B should go to terminal number 19.

If no problems can be seen on the actual terminals or connections, then the next step would be to use an ohm meter to check for any resistance in the wire between the coil and the ECU. This should highlight any problem in this area.

MORGAN PLUS 4

Hunting from cold

QI am having cold start issues with a 2014 Morgan 2.0 Plus 4. The car has a Ford Duratec GDI engine from the likes of a Focus ST and is hunting from cold, backfiring for the first couple of minutes and with a strong smell of running rich. Thereafter everything is fine when it gets warmer.

I had a dealer plug in the manufacturer code reader and found no error codes. In addition, I have cleaned the MAF sensor, changed the plugs and confirmed there is no leaks between the MAF sensor and the throttle valve. I was considering replacing the pre-cat O2 sensor with the Ford part number 8F9A 9Y460 GA. However, the local Ford dealership quoted over £300 for this! It’s a 5-wire sensor with White, Black, Red, Grey and Yellow wires.

Ken Wilson

AThe two symptoms you have are slightly contradictory to those I would expect. Normally it is a weak mixture which will cause a backfiring issue, but the hunting and the strong smell of fuel does suggest a rich mixture.

As things do settle when the engine temperature rises, I would as a first step ensure that the temperature reading from the air and coolant temperature senders are matching the actual temperature. It should be possible to check the temperatures using live data on a scanner and if the engine control module is receiving incorrect information, then this would explain why this problem is only apparent on a cold engine.

Faulty temperature sensor both coolant and air temperature which is normally recorded within the MAF

sensor can be incorrect without flagging up a fault code. I would also add that I have seen many faulty MAF sensors which do not trigger a code.

As a start it may be worth ensuring that the heater on the O2 sensor is good and using an ohm meter on the two heater wires should confirm that the heater is not open circuit, although I would expect this to flag up a code. The heater wires from the details I have should be white/ blue and white/green providing that Morgan have used the Ford wiring loom.

As this problem may be related to a timing issue, another common concern can be caused by the crankshaft sensor, and this may be a temperature related problem. As the crankshaft sensor is a cheap component which can be renewed quite easily, I would consider this as an option.

The Seicento coil which covers two cylinders.

JAGUAR STYPE

Performance limited

I have another longstanding niggle on my S-TYPE 2.7 TD in as much as it throws a performance limited message on the dash occasionally and always only after a cold start, never when the engine is warm. This is easy cured by restarting the engine, whereupon it works OK after that, no matter how often you have to restart the car on that particular day. I have hooked up the code reader and I am getting two codes P0046 and P004B these relate to the turbochargers.

Are the codes specific to one turbo (the engine has a turbo on each cylinder bank), ie. does P004B mean bank B which I take it would be the passenger side or could the fault be either side? I take it bank 1/A relates to the driver’s side and bank 2/B relates to the passenger side?

Steve Forsyth

The code P0046 refers to the Turbocharger (TC) boost control solenoid/ supercharger (SC) boost control solenoid - circuit range/performance, and the code P004B refers to the Turbocharger (TC)/supercharger (SC) boost pressure control B - circuit range/performance. The B in the code should indicate that the problem is in the circuit, not the mechanical operation of the unit. But the codes give no indication of which bank the problem is associated with. The Jaguar workshop manual lists only the seven-digit codes but these do not include the codes read from your vehicle.

The closest match I have is P0045 which is variable geometry turbocharger actuator open circuit right-hand bank, and P004A which indicates that the turbo actuator circuit is open on the right-hand bank. Or the code P0048 which indicates that the turbo actuator circuit is high on the right-hand bank.

It is unfortunately not unusual for the manufacturers code to not always cross over to an easily-detectable code when read from and EOBD scanner.

The turbochargers on the 2.7 diesel engine are variable geometry units which means that the amount of boost generated can be varied according to the engine load as well as the speed. The variable geometry solenoid is operated by the engine control module in response to the prevailing conditions.

With the codes and the symptoms you have, I would suspect that the fault is either due to a poor connection of the actuator or possibly an internal actuator failure. As the problem does only occur when the engine is cold, this is more likely to be the actuator, which once warmed up will then perform correctly, but after standing overnight or longer, may become sticky.

To narrow down the side of the problem, it may be necessary to disconnect one side at a time, and then see which codes are triggered by the disconnection of the actuator. This should give a good indication as to the side of the problem.

PEUGEOT 308

Retrieved codes

Sorry to bother you again but my 2013 Peugeot 308 1.6 HDi has got two fault codes. l took it to my local garage and the codes P2562 and P1497 came up but the mechanic could not find the fault. Can you help please? Will Beck

First let me say it’s not a bother, it’s what I am here for. The code P2562 indicates a fault in the turbocharger (TC) boost control position sensor, and the code is flagged due to a circuit malfunction. The code P1497 is indicating a fault in the turbocharger (TC) vane position sensor which is showing an under-boost condition. The most likely cause of both of these codes is a failure in the wiring circuit. And so, the wiring to the wastegate actuator would be the first area to check. If no signs of failure in the loom or connecting plug are visible, then the next check would be the actuator. There are three simple checks that can be done, the first is to ensure that the actuator has a 5V feed with the ignition on, this should be checked with the plug connected between pin number 3 on the actuator plug and earth. Providing the feed is good the next check is to ensure that whilst running the voltage between pin number 1 and earth is around 3.7V. This again is done with the multiplug connected. The last check is with the engine off and the multiplug disconnected, testing the ohm reading between terminals 2 and 3 this should read around 5000 Ω. If this reading is not correct then the actuator is the likely problem.

Diagnostics Doctor

Diagnostics Doctor is a FREE helpline service for CM readers – including trade readers – who are struggling with diagnostic/engine management related faults. Steve Rothwell will answer all your queries. He will need as much detail as possible: MAKE, MODEL, YEAR, ENGINE CODE and NUMBER PLATE of your vehicle –and the type of management system installed. Obviously, Steve will not be able to assess the vehicle up close, so his answer will be on the basis solely of your description. This is a FREE service and it may take some time to respond to certain problems. If you would like to receive a personal response via post, please enclose an SAE.

e-mail: cmdiagnostics@yahoo.co.uk

Write to:

DIAGNOSTICS DOCTOR CAR MECHANICS, KELSEY MEDIA THE GRANARY, DOWNS COURT YALDING HILL, YALDING, KENT ME18 6AL

Common abbreviations

ATS Air Temperature Sensor

AFM Air-Flow Meter – not a MAF type (see below). It could be, for example, a vane type

CAS Crank Angle Sensor

CPS Crank Position Sensor

CTS Coolant Temperature Sensor

ECT Engine Coolant Temperature

ECU Electronic Control Unit

EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation – meters exhaust gas back to the intake manifold

EML Engine Management Light

EMS Engine Management System

EPC Electronic Power Control

FCR Fault Code Reader

HT High Tension – ignition output to the spark plugs

IAV Idle Air Valve

ISCV Idle Speed Control Valve –usually operated by a motor controlled by the ECU

LOS Limited Operating Strategy – if the ECU detects a malfunction, it runs a programme to allow the car to still go, but at reduced efficiency

MAF Mass Air-Flow meter

MAP Manifold Air Pressure

MIL Malfunction Indicator Lamp

PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation – takes crankcase gases and recycles back to the inlet system

TBPS Turbo Boost Pressure Sensor – used by the ECU to regulate turbo output

TPS Throttle Position Sensor

VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor

WOT Wide Open Throttle

Diagnostics Electronic

C6 2.7 V6 HDi

Tracing and fixing faults in electronic engine management systems

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Electrical Services

The PSA-developed 2.7-litre V6 diesel engine has several wellknown problems to contend with, such as fractures around the oil pump housing and broken crankshafts, many of which have come to light because of its installation in several models of Land Rover and Jaguar. However, there is less known about this engine in the Citroën C6, an executive flagship saloon manufactured between 2005 and 2012.

Mark Shipman at Auto Electrical Services near York looks after a number of them and also has his own, so it was the ideal opportunity to find out more about a vehicle that promised so much when new, but typical of many top-end executive saloons, has become

overshadowed by more expensive and desirable German-manufactured vehicles from Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz.

Also typical of any older vehicle, parts availability is becoming a problem and when we discussed a relay issue with Mark, we weren’t surprised to discover two potential disasters; the first being that the relays are part of a fusebox, so they cannot be extracted and replaced; and the second being that some fuseboxes are no longer available new.

The following pages reveal more potential problems and how they can be resolved, along with the identification of the main sensors and components in the engine bay that can raise fault codes and help to resolve issues.

Engine 2720cc V6 quad-cam diesel

Engine code UHZ

Power 204bhp @ 4000rpm

Fuel consumption 32mpg

Management system Siemens SID201

Engine oil 5W-30 synthetic

Oil capacity (with filter) 5.5 litres

Coolant capacity 13.2 litres

TORQUE SETTINGS:

Drain plug 23Nm (+/- 3Nm) Oil filter 23Nm (+/- 3Nm) Road wheels 100Nm

Mark Shipman

Auto

owns the Citroën C6 shown here – we sent Rob Hawkins to discover the potential problems associated with this vehicle and its 2.7-litre diesel engine that’s found in many a Jaguar and Land Rover.

There are a couple of earth points on the nearside inner wing, which can corrode, resulting in earthing and electrical issues. There’s just enough space to be able to undo the two bolts shown here and clean them and the surrounding metalwork.

 The OBDII diagnostic socket is located between the front seats, inside a storage compartment. Here, Mark is using a Topdon Bluetooth receiver.



For lengthy diagnostic work, connect an external power source to the vehicle to reduce the risk of a drop in voltage or current and consequently false readings or an incorrectly diagnosed fault. Whilst the 12V battery is in the boot, there’s a live connection point in the NSF corner of the engine bay.

The 12V battery is in the nearside rear corner of the boot. It has a quickrelease connection for the negative terminal and a 10mm fastening for the positive. It’s secured with a clamp at the base and if replaced, it doesn’t need coding into the ECU.

 Mark explains that the front intake pipe to the air filter housing should be taken out to be able to access the front EGR valve and the rear belt that drives the diesel pump. The pipe is wedged into position.

 The frontmost EGR valve and its cooler can now be seen between the slam panel and the engine. Marks says that this EGR valve doesn’t often fail, but the one on the opposite side of the engine (near the bulkhead) does. And he warns that the two EGR valves have different part numbers.

 The suspension pump reservoir is in the offside of the engine bay, in front of the coolant reservoir. It uses the same fluid as the power steering and shares the reservoir.

 Twin mass airflow (MAF) sensors are fitted to the air filter housing in the nearside front corner of the engine bay. These sensors are interchangeable, so if a fault is raised on one of them, they can be swapped around or substituted to help diagnose any problem with them.

On the right side of the engine bay, next to the brake fluid reservoir, there’s the gearbox ECU (shown here) with the engine ECU underneath it. A black plastic cover should be protecting them, which is secured with quick-release plastic screws.

Typical Citroën C6 COMPONENTS

Next to the boost pressure sensor, there’s a fuel temperature sensor with a red plug. There’s a plastic tab to release for its connector plug. The sensor is part of the fuel return pipe, so it’s usually supplied as a complete assembly, although Mark has found some can be bought separately.

 There are six injectors. The three shown here are across the front of the engine bay, and there are three more near the back. Mark says they rarely fail and if they do, they are usually straightforward to remove.

 The coolant temperature sensor is secured to a coolant hose close to the expansion tank on the offside of the engine bay. There’s a plastic thermostat housing nearby in the centre of the vee of the engine, which is known to leak because its bonding fails.

 There’s an oil pressure switch near the engine lifting eye on the offside of the engine bay. If it has failed or has been accidentally disconnected, it will raise an oil pressure light on the dashboard.

 A swirl flap control solenoid can be found at the offside back of the engine bay, next to the left timing belt cover. If there’s a fault with this control solenoid, or if any vacuum pipes fail, this will usually result in a loss of low-end torque.

 There’s an inlet air temperature sensor for the inlet manifold on the offside rear of the engine. This is a separate sensor to the two MAF sensors outlined in step 9, which include their own air temperature sensors.

 This motorised throttle flap on the offside of the engine bay (near the left or rearmost timing belt cover) has nothing to do with the throttle pedal. Instead, it’s used for the EGR function. Upon switching off the engine, it pulls gases from the EGR into the engine and shuts off the fresh air supply.

The wiring and plug connector shown in the lower half of this photo is for the glow plug wiring. This helps to test the glow plugs, which are located in the vee of the engine. Mark assures us that the plugs are easy to access should you need to remove them, but they can sometimes be seized.

There’s a boost pressure sensor next to the oil filter housing, which is in the middle of the engine bay (between the two cylinder-heads). It’s secured with a Torx T25 screw.

There’s a fuel high-pressure fuel sensor in the back middle area of the vee of the engine, located above the highpressure diesel pump. Thanks to AES York Limited 01904 780149 autoelectricsyork.co.uk

 The fusebox on the nearside of the engine bay is located under a cover and contained in what’s known as the electronics box. It contains relays that can fail and result in a non-starting engine because the feed to the in-tank fuel pump is lost. See Fault 2 for further details.

Typical Citroën C6 FAULTS

SPLIT INLET MANIFOLD – Boost pressure and inlet airflow fault codes can be raised, which are often caused by a split in the plastic inlet manifold. Fault codes such as PO299 for low turbo boost pressure, P2279 for an intake air leak and P0101 for mass airflow range performance can be raised and not just one of them, but in some cases all of them. This will result in ‘limp-home’ mode if driven hard or uphill. Use an intake smoke meter to look for leaks. Look at both inlet manifolds for oily residue but confirm this with a smoke meter. The bonding fails for the plastic inlet manifold and it’s a labourintensive job to change because the injectors need to be removed.

NONSTARTING ENGINE – This can begin with a fuel pressure fault, which could be caused by a high-pressure pump failure or if the belt for the pump has snapped. However, Mark at AES recommends checking the live feed to the pump, which is under the rear seat. If there’s no live feed, then the chances are the relays have failed, which are located inside the fusebox on the nearside of the engine bay (see step 20 above). If the relays have failed (check the feeds to them), they cannot be replaced as they are incorporated in the fusebox assembly. A secondhand fusebox can be fitted, providing the 10-digit number on the body of it is the same. Some fuseboxes are no longer available new.

SEIZED TURBOCHARGER

– Fault code P010F for inconsistent signals between airflow meters may be raised – check live data readings. This results in a loss of performance and an EML on the dashboard. Usually, the rearmost turbo out of the two will have seized due to carbon deposits and a lack of routine maintenance. The oil feed pipes get full of carbon deposits.

EGR FAILURE – Fault code P0404 for the frontmost EGR can be raised because the valves jam mechanically and fail electrically. P0402 is for the rearmost EGR valve, although P0400 is for a generic EGR fault code. Replacement is the best solution. There are no issues with driving, but if the EML is illuminated on the dashboard, this problem must be fixed to pass the MOT test.

FAULT 4

GLOW PLUG FAILURE –

Often causes a lumpy idle because the glow plugs help to smooth out the idling of the engine. Look for fault code P1351. The engine will start without them, providing the ambient air temperature doesn’t drop below -4°C. If all the glow plugs have failed, this can result in DPF faults. Check the resistance at the connector plugs (see step 12). 2.5ohms is OK, but 12ohms could suggest a glow plug has burnt out.

FAULT 5

FAULT 3 FAULT 2

Humble Opinion

This year found Mike Humble swapping his spanners for a camera and microphone…

Moving people

 For this month, in homage to King Charles on his near fatal Klosters skiing holiday a good few years back, I’m going offpiste. This year, 2022, will go down in my memory banks as one of my busiest. Busy insofar as my daytime job as well as motor industry japes that pretty much fills in all the spare time I have. In point of fact, I’m actually jabbing away at the keyboard of my laptop as a fork lift truck clatters and bangs in the back of my HGV as I undertake an early morning bulk delivery in Newark – they call it ‘double productivity of time’. I suppose it beats listening to the wireless and picking my nose but when I hear people say there simply isn’t enough hours in the day, I fully and wholeheartedly agree. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining besides, when I do, no b**ger listens to me anyway – that’s life I guess but I do like to be busy.

Over the past few years, I have been sticking my toe into new waters. At some car show a little while back, some mush stuck a microphone under my hooter and camera in my face – and proceeded to interview me on my thoughts of a certain make and model of car. In my usual no-nonsense style, I was brutally honest with a soupcon of wit, and it went down a bomb. I seemingly had a knack for adlib banter and even though it was an alien experience, I thoroughly enjoyed it. For those who aren’t ‘in the swim’ about my passions and interests, it doesn’t solely revolve around cars and Indian food (ask the Ed for conformation). Buses and trucks – even some types of aircraft have been a serious interest of mine, to quote the late Fred Dibnah; ‘when I were a small boy’.

Which leads me to the present rather nicely, as I remained in contact with the aforementioned camera man – John Clancy. We went on to work in partnership on a DVD project on the Rover 75 and MG ZT called Codename R40. Editor Martyn featured in the film as did his 2001 Rover 75 V6.

The R40 project was a great success. So, with added eagerness I came up with an idea to celebrate the anniversary of a legend in passenger transport – the Leyland National bus, which this year marks fifty years since its launch. This was pretty much outside John’s comfort zone, more so than the R40 project which really tried our collective patience owing to lockdown and trying to keep former Rover managers and directors interested in helping us.

Getting involved with key people

This year, we were free of the aforementioned covid-related shackles, John was given a bucket load of information to swat upon and I went through my dirty book of industry contacts to see who was around, or still alive that could give our project some real clout – if the key people involved with Leyland were no longer with us or worse still ‘lost their marbles’ so to speak, we’d have to abort the idea. You see, bus and transport films are big business in enthusiast circles and every now and then I get sent them to review. Overall they are painfully lacking in detail and facts, often as not simply featuring loads of old archive film footage and a monotone narration. If we were going to do this it had to have a pace, be entertaining and above all stand head and shoulders over the other boring features I have seen.

What happened was nothing short of a miracle. A number of key Leyland managers and directors stepped forward and agreed

to be interviewed. We even managed to coax the technical director of Angel Trains – a current rolling stock leasing company to talk about the BR railbus, a development of the National bus.

We covered two massive gatherings that marked the 50th birthday at the British Motor Museum at Gaydon, Whitehaven harbourside in Cumbria and visited the site of the former factory in Workington. The result I’d like to think is a rather decent celebration that has a nice blend of fact, humour and that special ingredient – passion. Everyone we talked to and filmed seemed to bubble over with pride and emotion, it really comes over well on the screen with John and myself being forever grateful.

You really don’t want to know the cost of diesel for travelling, Premier Inn rooms and dining out that’s been involved over the past year getting this project afoot. One thing is for certain though, the former CM project Saab 9-3 has done the lions share of the graft and hasn’t missed a beat in the process.

The rough cut has been de-snagged and edited for human consumption, the sleeve design has been agreed upon, so now it’s just a case of spreading the word and getting the thing sold.

For me, the most memorable thing by far was the wonderful sight of seeing now long retired management all meeting each other for the first time in the same place in over half a century.

As is always the case in the motor industry, especially if you yourself have worked at the coal face, you’ll know that it isn’t always the actual end product that has that special place in the heart, it’s the engineers themselves who often, without credit, toiled and burned the midnight oil to create the bikes, buses, cars, trucks and vans. To see these people, interact and reminisce like it was only yesterday, for me is the best part of these kinds of projects – worth more than gold in some cases.

Anyway, if you want to get hold of a copy in either DVD or Blue-Ray, log-on to John Clancy’s website at www.triumphdvd.co.uk and follow the links. You will also find plenty of other motoring-related films too – ideal Christmas gift ideas – and all good quality stuff as well.

“As is always the case in the motor industry, especially if you yourself have worked at the coal face, you’ll know that it isn’t always the actual end product that has that special place in the heart, it’s the engineers themselves who often, without credit, toiled and burned the midnight oil to create the bikes, buses, cars, trucks and vans.”

The Leyland National –50-years-old in 2022.