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// restaurants // cafés // // bars // adventures // // activities // sightseeing

Who knoWs A city better?

Who knows a city better than its local taxi drivers? Whether you need a cab from the airport to your hotel or you want to check out the whales in Kaldfjorden, Tromsø Taxi is at your service 24/7.

Tromsø Taxi is Northern Norway’s largest taxi station. We have 123 vehicles, including 10 maxi taxis seating 9-16 passengers and can transport up to three wheelchair users per vehicle.

As well as transporting you from A to B, we offer sightseeing tours.

You decide what you want to see, or your driver can be your guide and show you the best sights in and around the city!

Tromsø Taxi – GeT where you’re GoinG fasTer

booKinG 2

Phone 1: +47 03011 | Phone 2: +47 776 03 000 | aPP: TaxiFix (Download free in AppStore and GooglePlay) e-mail: taxi@tromso-taxi.no | websiTe: www.tromso-taxi.no

Rent a Car Get off the plane at Tromsø airport, and go directly to our counter to get the key for your rental car.

Check out our website and choose the model you prefer.

(+47) 97 59 30 00 – reservation@sixt.no

www.sixt.com

Tromso.info Summer 2018 (8th edition) Publisher

Markedskompetanse Nord AS post@mk-nord.no Editor

John A. Angelsen john@mk-nord.no

THE

Contributing authors

Hans Olav Eriksen, Jan-Are K. Johnsen, Ruth Norstrøm, Tor Petter W. Christensen, John A. Angelsen, Ron Røstad, Johnny Hansen, Halvar Ellingsen, Thor A. Angelsen, Inger Storli, Peter Reinholdtsen, Gavin Tanguay.

OUTPOST

Design/layout

Thor A. Angelsen Ruth Norstrøm Marketing & advertising

Hans Olav Eriksen hoeriksen@gmail.com Ruth Norstrøm ruth@mk-nord.no Distribution

The magazine can also be downloaded as a pdf at issuu.com Circulation

10 000 printed copies Print

United Press English translation

Gavin Tanguay gavint-oversetting.no Photos

Marius Fiskum mariusfiskum.no, David Gonzales, Lloyd Rehnlund, Cover photo Shutterstock/V. Belov

T

OF CIVILISATION

his is the end of civilisation, and the beginning of the largest uninhabited wilderness area in Europe. The Municipality of Tromsø has a population of around 70,000, approximately 60,000 of whom live in or nearby the city of Tromsø. Tromsø is by far the largest city in Northern Norway, and is also the largest Nordic city north of the Arctic Circle. Tromsø has its own university and brewery. No other universities or breweries in the world are located this far north. The city is surrounded by hundreds of islands, dramatic mountains and deep fjords, and is only a two-hour flight from Oslo, the Norwegian capital.

The university provides many opportunities for scientists from all over the world, studying the Northern Lights, the Arctic environment, fisheries, climate change, oil resources in the ocean, and many other topics.

As a result of this activity, there are several museums dedicated to the Arctic life and nature, as well as an Arctic experience centre and aquarium. Tromsø, the Gateway to the Arctic, was founded in 1794, and from 1850 the town was central in fisheries and other marine-based activity. In the early 20th century, the town was also

the starting point for several famous expeditions in the Arctic waters and in the race to be the first person on the North Pole.

The activity a century ago led to a flourishing cultural life. The finer ladies in Tromsø could afford to wear the latest fashions from Paris and other cultural centres in Europe. In the Nordic countries this gave Tromsø the nickname “Paris of the North”.

The growing population and status as an Arctic capital, with a lasting boom in the cultural life, has maintained this image to this day. Tromsø has its own professional theatre, an international film festival, and many other festivals, concerts, and events throughout the year. Taking into consideration the size of the city, the nightlife in the many restaurants and bars is extraordinary. You will find restaurants serving everything from sushi to traditional Norwegian dishes.

Tromsø is where civilization meets the wild and enormous Arctic environment. You can take the cable car up to a mountain more than 400 metres above sea level and admire the panoramic view of the islands and high mountains surrounding the city.

Hans-Olav Holtermann Eriksen

4

Avinor's role in society is to own, operate and develop a national network of airports.

avinor.no/en Each year, around

Each year, around

passengers use Avinor airports

patients are carried aboard scheduled flights

Avinor is responsible for around

100,000 tonnes

50 million

815,000

aircraft movements per year

400,000

of fresh Norwegian salmon are flown to distant skies each year

The company has around

3,300 employees

TROMSĂ˜ AIRPORT has several daily flights from Oslo (OSL), the Norwegian capital. Flight time from Oslo International Airport (OSL) is 1hr 50min.

Avinor is the official Avinor app !

Offers up-to-date flight departure and arrival information for all of Avinor’s 45 airports in Norway.

OSLO AIRPORT (Gardermoen) Approximate flight times: London 1 hr 20 min Berlin 1 hr 55 min Rome 3 hr 10 min Madrid 3 hr 45 min Paris 2 hr 25 min Brussels 1 hr 55 min 5

A STROLL THROUGH THE PARI Tromsø is a metropolis by name, if not by fact, a place that has grown from being a tiny village into a small “big city” with a population rapidly approaching 100,000.

The population was only 80 in 1794 when the king in Copenhagen granted a town charter to the small settlement on the island of Tromsøya. Around 221 years later, the population is approaching 75,000 and growing rapidly.

Tromsø is a metropolis in name because ever since the mid 19th century the town has had a nickname that brings to mind the big metropolises of the world.

“Paris of the North” was in fact a name Tromsø inherited because its residents – and primarily the women – always dressed in the latest fashion. Yes, the women of Tromsø dressed like many of the women of Paris dressed. That was due to fact that the latest fashions quickly came to Tromsø by the mode of transport of the day – boats - transporting fish products from our latitudes and to continental Europe.

FRENCH PAVEMENTS

It was not only in the area of women’s fashion that inspiration from Paris rubbed off on the locals of Tromsø. It also became quite common to use French terms in everyday language.

In Tromsø, the Norwegian equivalent of pavement was never used. Instead, the paved areas beside the streets were called trottoir, just like Frenchmen described the pavements of Paris.

When Tromsø got two breakwaters to protect the inner harbour from strong currents and strong winds on harsh autumn and winter days, they were not referred to by the Norwegian name. No, they got the French name jetee, which is still used to this day.

Tromsø History 6

The latest fashions from Paris. The upper class and working class walked on opposite sides of Storgata.

ARCTIC COUNCIL

In recent years, Tromsø has become an important city internationally. In 2013 Tromsø was chosen as the permanent secretariat for the Arctic Council.

This is an intergovernmental forum among Arctic countries promoting cooperation and coordination on common Arctic issues, in particular in relation to sustainable development and environmental protection.

The member countries of the Arctic Council are Canada, Denmark including the Faroe Islands and Greenland, Finland, Iceland, Russia, USA, Sweden and Norway.

In other words, Tromsø is not only the capital of Northern Norway, but also the capital of the Arctic.

This council secretariat is housed in the Fram Centre, and this is a natural starting point for a city walk through Tromsø.

S OF T HE NORTH file:///Users/thorandersangelsen/ Downloads/shutterstock_505292473. jpg

POLARIA

The Fram Centre and adjacent Arctic experience centre Polaria were both completed just before the turn of the millennium.

The famous author Cora Sandel in the latest French fashion.

In addition to its unique architecture, the content of Polaria is of interest to the residents of Tromsø and the hundreds of thousands who visit Tromsø each year. Seals swim round in their own pool and there are aquariums containing fish species from the northern latitudes.

Many have asked how the building ended up with its unique design. The answer is easier than you may think.

The architect sat in his office one afternoon playing with a marker pen in search of an idea to create a building that illustrated the activity inside as well as one that the residents of Tromsø would develop a positive attitude towards. His pen suddenly stopped working. The architect fiddled with his pen to try to get it to work again. When he looked at the paper, he suddenly discovered that the lines he had drawn resembled the pack ice, which is a well known phenomenon in the Arctic. Aha, thought the architect. That was an idea he could develop further.

POLSTJERNA

A glass building housing the historic Arctic vessel Polstjerna stands right next door to Polaria.

This sealing vessel served a total of 33 seasons in the West Ice and East Ice in the Arctic.

Apparently more than 100,000 seals were caught from the vessel, which constituted an important part of the Arctic industry that at one stage was of great significance to Tromsø.

A memorial to Helmer Hanssen, Tromsø’s polar explorer who was Roald Amundsen’s right hand man on all Amundsen’s expeditions, has been erected adjacent to this building. These expeditions included the conquering of the Northwest Passage, the South Pole and their attempt to reach the North Pole aboard Maud. The memorial was unveiled on 14 December 2011, 100 years to the day that Roald Amundsen and his crew reached the South Pole.

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BAKER TURNED BREWER If you continue northwards along Storgata, it won’t take you long to reach what until a few years ago was the world’s northernmost brewery.

Mack’s Brewery produced beer and soft drinks in huge quantities on this site from the brewery’s establishment in 1877 up to 2013 when production was moved to the neighbouring municipality Balsfjord. The brewery premises remain as they have since the late 19th century.

Over the past couple of years, the former brewery has hosted the World Chess Olympiad in 2014 and European Bridge Championship in 2015. All the matches in both events were overseen by the man who established Mack’s Brewery in 1877, Ludwig Mack, whose bust adorns the building’s exterior.

TRAINED AS A BAKER

His family originated from Germany but moved to Tromsø in the mid 19th century and started a bakery. Ludwig Mack was to overtake his father’s bakery, so he returned to Germany to train as a baker and confectioner. However, while back in Germany, he dreamt of establishing his own brewery.

He was aged just 35 on 17 May 1878 when he realized his dream and the first bottles of Bayer beer were produced. His brewing business, which still produces beer to this day, was underway.

EMPLOYED 320 PEOPLE

For a long time, the brewery was a major employer in Tromsø. In the

Tromsø History 8

Ludwig Mack outside his brewery in Storgata late 1980s, around 320 people were employed at the brewery and adjacent pub Ølhallen (The Beer Hall), which has been very popular since it opened its doors on the Leap Day in 1928.

DRANK HAIR TONIC

Ludwig Mack had actually tried many years earlier to get permission to open an indoor taproom, but the temperance movement in Tromsø was very strong so he failed to get the required permission. However, his successor as director, son-in-law Lauritz Bredrup, eventually succeeded. He visited every councillor at their home in an attempt to persuade them to let him open an indoor taproom.

That didn’t help the first time he tried in

1924 despite the fact that there were no controls on drinking outdoors. Some local gangs known as the ”Denna gangs2 often sat outside and drank what was locally referred to as denna. This was a mixture of denatured alcohol and Salicylic acid, a fat-free hair tonic. Needless to say, the consumption of such beverages created uncontrolled situations, but this was insufficient to convince the temperance movement. They didn’t believe that permitting the brewery to open an indoor taproom would change the outdoor drinking pattern.

But Lauritz Bredrup didn’t give up. He repeated his round of visits to the local politicians in 1927. On this occasion he was successful and Ølhallen became a reality.

AMUNDSEN’S LAST STAY Continuing north along Storgata, it is natural to stop outside the house at Storgata 42. This was the house in which polar explorer Roald Amundsen slept for the last time.

Amundsen arrived in Tromsø in the early hours of 18 June 1928 on the flying boat Latham. He was en route to the polar ice to search for Italian Umberto Nobile, whose airship Italia had disappeared after flying over the North Pole. Italia had crashed and an organised search began on a scale the world had scarcely seen before.

Amundsen, who was commander of the airship Norge that flew over the North Pole in 1926 with Umberto Nobile at the controls, wanted to participate in the search. Amundsen’s good friend, pharmacist Fritz G. Zapffe, lived and worked at Storgata 42. Whenever Amundsen was in Tromsø, he always stayed with Zapffe. He even had his own room, which was later called the Amundsen room.

SUPPORTED BY MUSSOLINI

Amundsen slept here for a few hours before he and his French-Norwegian crew departed on Latham to search for Nobile.

The Italian had embarked on his expedition with the airship Italia because he and Italian dictator Benito Mussolini believed that Italy had received too little attention for their role with the Norge expedition a few years earlier. That was the reason why Nobile built his own airship, christened as Italia and embarked on his adventurous expedition.

A stamp honours Roald Amundsen´s contribution to aviation history. Pictured: The ”Latham”.

Storgata 42

CRASHED

As history shows, Amundsen was unsuccessful in his attempt to find Nobile.

Instead, his airship Latham crashed somewhere between the Norwegian mainland and the island of Bjørnøya. The only wreckage ever found was a float, which demonstrably was from Latham.

Zapffe celebrates after climbing up the church spire.

ZAPFFE’S CLIMB Zapffe’s son, Peter Wessel Zapffe, also lived at Storgata 42.

Zapffe junior was lawyer, philosopher and author. He was also a fearless mountaineer. In the mid 1930s he worked as a lawyer at the office of the urban district court judge.

He suddenly became bored with legal papers, went to the Tromsø Cathedral and decided to climb to the top of the church tower. People who witnessed this man climbing up the steep church tower – without any form of safety measures – were shocked, to put it mildly. Nevertheless, Zapffe reached the top with minimal effort and clung on while the city’s photographer preserved it all for posterity. In so doing, he secured evidence that Zapffe had actually climbed up the virtually impregnable church spire.

Throughout the more than 150-year history of the Tromsø Cathedral, Peter Wessel Zapffe is the only person to perform this dangerous stunt.

9

ROCKET KIOSK

GESTAPO ALLEY Another house associated with several historical events is located on the northern side of the cathedral.

about the German battleship Tirpitz, which lay damaged in the Kåfjord near Alta.

The house at Bankgata 13 was built in 1880 by the whaler Johannes Giæver and was the first residential building in Tromsø built of stone.

Another reason why it’s unique is that the famous writer Cora Sandel lived here during her childhood. During World War II the Gestapo took over the house and used it as a venue to torture people suspected of fighting against the interests of the occupying power Germany.

HEROIC DEED

REPORTED ON THE TIRPITZ

One of the people linked to this house was Norwegian resistance fighter Karl Rasmussen. He had been involved in sending messages from Alta to London

Tromsø History 10

After his arrest, Rasmussen was taken to Tromsø for very tough questioning inside this house. During a break in the questioning, he jumped out of a window on the second floor of the house and took his own life instead of divulging secrets to the Germans about his resistance comrades.

This heroic deed is one of the reasons why every morning on 17 May, Norway’s national day, the scout parade stops briefly outside Bankgata 13 to lay a wreath to commemorate the victims of the Gestapo during World War II.

If we continue walking northwards along Storgata, we reach a tiny building that has characterized the town square since 1911.

It is the small Løkkekiosken (the Løkke kiosk), which in recent years has been called Rakettkiosken (the rocket kiosk), apparently because it looks like a rocket.

The kiosk was built by an 18-year-old woman named Margit Løkke - hence the name Løkke kiosk. It has survived for more than a century, including the big city fire in the spring of 1969 that engulfed several blocks with flames.

Despite being in the midst of a sea of flames, the tiny kiosk survived.

It is now the centre of a major music festival called RakettNatt (rocket night) in honour of the tiny rocket kiosk.

SKANSEN

The last stop on our city walk is Skansen, the place in Tromsø with the longest history.

VERDENSTEATERET If you continue slightly further along Storgata, it’s natural to stop at Northern Europe’s oldest cinema in continuous operation.

It’s called Verdensteatret (the theatre of the world), and 2015 marks the 100th anniversary of the building of the cinema building. The first movie screened at the historic cinema was Sons of Destiny on 4 June 1916.

Ever since, films starring the likes of Charlie Chaplin, Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton and many, many more have entertained the residents of Tromsø, who have always filled this cinema regardless of whether war dramas or films about love and romance were screening.

building that still stands to this day and is simply referred to as Skansen. Construction began in 1789 and was completed in 1793 – the year before Tromsø received its town charter. It The history of Skansen stretis considered to be Tromsø’s ches right back to 1000 AD or oldest building. perhaps even further back.

As well as serving as a CustSkansen was originally a medioms house, it has been a school eval fortification designed to building, nursing home and defend the people and buildcity museum.

The building is ings of the time. the City of Tromsø’s residence No one knows with any for entertaining and was also certainty who built the fortifichosen as Tromsø’s millennium cation, but one cannot discount Olav Haraldsson, who was king site. of Norway between 1015 and 1030. Modern day excavations CULTURAL RELIC show that the fortress was sur- This building caught fire in the rounded by a 4-5 m wide moat, winter of 2003 but, owing to which in all likelihood was filled the tenacious efforts of the fire fighters, the building was saved. with water.

It was later restored and is still a magnificent building.

THE OLDEST BUILDING Skansen is considered to be In 1787, the Customs Service the best preserved fortified established itself in Tromsø, place in Northern Europe. It’s and Skansen was chosen as the obvious place as it offered a unique cultural monument the Customs officers an excel- in the city centre. If you look a little behind the facades, you lent view of the strait. One of will soon discover that it is a the first constructions was a museum in its own right.

This article is written

by Johnny Hansen.

In addition to a long career as an author, Hansen has been executive editor of the largest and oldest newspapers in the Tromsø region, iTromsø and Nordlys, for a total of 20 years.

Hansen is considered to be one of the leading authorities on Tromsø’s modern history.

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MALI ARNSTAD

Age: 44 Civil status: Married, children Lives in: Detached house Typical weekend food: Pizza Favourite café/bar: Risø kaffebar Tips for tourists: Hike up and take the cable car down Typical Sunday activity: Hike in the forest or go on a bike ride

The People of Tromsø

THE TYPEWRITER COLLECTOR Mali Arnstad’s day job is digital communication, but in her spare time she visits flea markets in search of Norwegian design treasures to sell to overseas buyers.

Even though Norway is not as well known for design as Sweden and Denmark, there are many treasures in the Norwegian design history.

“Norwegian vintage pillows and tablecloths, teak figures or Figgjo porcelain are desired by many people around the world.

I find these items at flea markets and resell them with a small profit. It’s mostly a hobby,” says Arnstad.

While at flea markets, Arnstad also looks for typewriters. She buys these too and has started a collection. Typewriters are also in demand.

“I sent a Hermes typewriter to USA, which was used at a wedding. Guests used the typewriter to write messages of congratulations to the bride and groom.

NO GUARANTEE OF SUMMER

Summer in Tromsø this year was completely average. In other words, the fine

I think children should learn to walk on the ice.

12

warm days were few and far between, and Tromsø residents need to travel south in order to find real summer weather.

Arnstad and her family have found a good solution.

“House swapping allows us to swap houses with people from all over the world.

This summer we were in Normandy, while the French family were cold, grey Tromsø.

I think they were just as satisfied as we were.”

Using a house swapping service is a bit like the lottery.

“If you don’t have a specific destination in mind, but for example want a beach and warm weather, you never know where you could end up. We have been in Belgium, Spain and Sardinia.”

SEPTEMBER IS THE BEST TIME

The best time of year in Tromsø is early autumn.

“In September you can pick mushrooms and wild berries and it’s a great to hike in the countryside. It still hasn’t got really cold yet.”

The Polar Night in Tromsø is something you have to accept as a challenge. The lack of daylight when the sun does not rise above the horizon can cause sleep disorders. Even though there is no evidence that this darkness causes depression, it is important to get some daylight, especially in terms of wellbeing.

“I’m part owner of Reddi, which produces web content for clients. It’s important

to get out of the office in the middle of the day when there is at least some light.”

Some workplaces have introduced schemes to help the staff get some light.

“Employees at the County Council get an extra break in the middle of the day so they can go outside when it’s light,” says Arnstad.

ARCTIC CHILDHOOD

Arnstad has three daughters of primary school age. Having children in the north involves several practical adjustments.

“I don’t buy crampons for my children. I think children should learn to walk on the ice. Learning to walk on icy roads is just a matter of practicing and this is an important skill if you live in Tromsø. Tourists who are not used to walking on ice and snow make a lot of basic mistakes and fall easily,” she says.

One way to adapt to the climate is not to keep children inside all the time. “If children are allowed to stay inside when the weather is bad, they would virtually never go outside,” she says.

Children in Tromsø play outside regardless of the weather. Children at kindergarten are expected to have warm and waterproof clothes so they can play outside no matter whether it’s cold or wet.

It’s important to have your equipment in order. “Lighter summer gloves and hat are a necessity in Tromsø.”

by Ron Røstad

PROUD SUPPLIER OF VIEWS SINCE 1961 Opening hours: 15 May – 15 August: 10.00 – 01.00 16 August – 14 May: 10.00 – 22.00 Departures on the half hour

Tickets: Buy online at fjellheisen.no/en Transport: Bus number 26 from Tromsø city centre

Web: fjellheisen.no Visit us: Solliveien 12, Tromsdalen

Regional Map

Vollan Gjestestue For locally produced and developed food with homemade cakes and bread, pay a visit to Vollan Gjestestue.

Malangen Resort For modern accommodation and a high quality restaurant right by the fjord, stay for a night or maybe a week at Malangen Resort.

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Aurora Spirit For spectacular mountains dropping vertically into the sea, visit the Lyngen Alps, and the distillery of Aurora Spirit.

Lyngsfjord Adventure, Camp Tamok For Northern Lights, dog sledding, reindeer sledding or snowmobile safaris, go to Camp Tamok and the daily excursions by Lyngsfjord Adventure.

Mountain Village At the heart of Troms county you will find Målselv Mountain Village, surrounded by beautiful white mountains. The inland climate here is perfect for northern lights and snow activities.

Elements Arctic Camp The camp is located by the seashore on the island of Rebbenesøya north of Tromsø.

Tere is no road access or electricity.

Elements Arctic Camp BESKRIVELSE AV OPPDRAGET:

Rentegning/oppfrisking av logo

KORREKTUR NR:

5 DIN KONTAKTPERSON:

Roland Strand TELEFON:

98441670 E-POST:

roland@rekmont.no GRAFISK ANSV:

Roland Strand

Korrekturen er et fysisk og/eller elektronisk dokument produsert av Rekmont AS for å sikre at den endelige leveransen blir i samsvar med partenes avtale. Den digitale korrekturen vil kunne avvike fra ferdig produsert materiell. Innholdet i korrekturen (layout og grafiske elementer) er for Rekmont AS sin eiendom å regne og er omfattet av ”Lov om opphavsrett til åndsverk m.v. (Åndsverkloven)”. Layout og grafiske elementer kan derfor ikke, helt eller delvis, benyttes uten samtykke fra Rekmont AS. Korrekturen anses for konfidensiell mellom kunde og Rekmont AS.

Experience a unique, private and personalized trip!

Two-day Arctic Camp with summer kayaking

Our trips are all inclusive. You will have the camp to yourself, stay in your own yurt, paddle in magnificent scenery, enjoy local food and have a close-up experience with the Arctic wildlife and coastal life.

Our camp is located by the seashore on the island of Rebbenesøya north of Tromsø. There is no road access or electricity. This is the place to Two-day trip Monday, Wednesday or Friday: Pick-up at 1pm (13.00), return following day at 6pm (18.00) Group size: maximum 4 (For larger groups, please contact us)

experience calmness, silence, changeable weather and the colours and uniqueness of the various seasons. From mid-May to mid-July, the golden rays of the Midnight Sun will shine throughout the night. No previous paddling experience is required, but you must be in reasonable physical shape. We will pick you up in downtown Tromsø or the surrounding area. We also offer three-day and customized trips.

Prices per yurt/two-day trip: 1-2 people: ............ NOK 7,900 3 people: ................ NOK 10,690 4 people: ................ NOK 13,480

BOOK: elementsarcticcamp.com II post@elementsarcticcamp.com II +47 907 89 699 15

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MOUNTAIN hiking O

ne of the highlights of the Lyngsfjord area are the Lyngen Alps - a majestic chain of high, steep mountains rising directly from sea level.

These mighty peaks surrounded by fjords appear impossible to conquer for anyone but experienced mountain climbers. However, hiking routes often lead up to the summits.

Our experienced local mountain guides know these routes like the back of their hand. On our exciting guided hikes, you can hike from “sea to summit” without previous skills or climbing equipment.

On our scenic mountain hike, your guide will lead you to the summit of Rasteby, a mountain peak more than 900 m above sea level. The route is not dangerous or demanding, but you must be in normal physical condition to complete such steep uphill and downhill hike.

When you reach the top, you will be served a hot meal and have time to rest before hiking down again. From the summit of Rasteby, you will also be rewarded with extraordinary views of the Lyngen Alps. Just remember your camera…

If you are unable to arrange your own transport, we can provide transfers from the Tromsø area. This must be booked well in advance. Details concerning price and meeting point are available on request.

INCLUDED ■■ A hot meal ■■ English-speaking guide RECOMMENDED ■■ Suitable and warm clothes ■■ Hiking shoes ■■ A small backpack ■■ A bottle with drinking water

HIKING

Season:....................................................... June – September Duration:.................................................... 5 hours Price:........................................................... NOK 1,495 pp (children 7-15 years: 50% discount) Booking:..................................................... www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 15:00)

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GLACIER hiking T

he glacier hiking takes place in the world-renowned Lyngen Alps – a majestic chain of steep, high mountains surrounded by fjords. You need no previous glacier walking or hiking skills to participate.

An introduction to glacier walking with special focus on safety will be given before the activity begins. Our experienced guides will accompany you on the spectacular Steindalen Glacier.

We started with a 2-3 hour hike up to the glacier. When we enter the glacier, you will walk in a rope team, meaning that for your safety you will be connected to each other by a long rope. You will wear helmets, ice axes and crampons attached to your boots. During this exciting tour, you will gain an insight into the fascinating Sami and Kven cultures, and the area’s unique geology.

The tempo and routes will be adjusted according to your previous skills and fitness. However, to participate on a hiking trip of this length you must be in normal physical condition.

If you are unable to arrange your own transport, we can provide transfers from the Tromsø area. This must be booked well in advance. Details concerning price and meeting point are available on request.

INCLUDED ■■ Transportation by bus/minibus ■■ Two meals ■■ All glacier walking equipment ■■ English-speaking guide providing instructions and insight into the glacier RECOMMENDED ■■ Clothing and hiking boots ■■ Small backpack and water bottle ■■ Vegetarian food will be provided if advance notice is given.

GLACIER HIKING

Season:....................................................... June – September Duration:.................................................... 9 hours Price:........................................................... NOK 1,695 (children age 7-15 years: 50% discount) Booking:..................................................... www.lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 15:00)

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RIVER canoeing L

yngsfjord Adventure offers experiences of the highest quality in the Lyngenfjord region, where beautiful fjords meet majestic mountains.

You will be served a hot meal based on North Norwegian traditions during the adventure. English-speaking guides will accompany you.

The Lyngenfjord region provides an excellent opportunity to experience the Midnight Sun during the summer!

The canoe trip is on the beautiful Signal river in the picturesque Signaldalen valley. You will paddle past the famous Otertind mountain.

You will also gain an insight into the fascinating Sami and Kven cultures, and the area’s unique flora and geology.

We recommend wearing suitable clothing and bringing extra warm clothes.

INCLUDED ■■ A hot meal based on Northern

Norwegian tradition ■■ English speaking guides

RECOMMENDED ■■ Suitable and extra warm clothes ■■ Hiking shoes ■■ A small backpack ■■ A bottle with drinking water

RIVER CANOEING Season:................................................ 1 July – 15 September Duration:............................................. 4 hours

Price:........................................................... NOK 1,695 (children age 7-15 years: 50% discount)

Booking:............................................lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 15:00)

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TROMSØ

OVERNIGHT STAY At Camp Tamok Camp Tamok is located in the Tamok Valley, a 75-minute drive from downtown Tromsø – and a 14-minute drive from the E6 highway.

This is the wilderness camp belonging to Lyngsfjord Adventure. It consists of

95 km 1 t 15’

several lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tents), timber cabins, an outdoor hot tub, sauna and toilet facilities. The heating and lighting is by open fire, wood-burning stoves and oil lamps. Although primitive, it’s authentic and genuine and has a special atmosphere.

Booking: www.lyngsfjord.com post@lyngsfjord.com +47 77 71 55 88 (09:00 - 15:00)

Nordkjosbotn 24 km 22’

65 km

14 km 14’

1t

Bardufoss

-

NIGHT IN WILDERNESS CABIN (NOT PRIVATE) 6 rooms/10 guests

The cabin has four bedrooms and two lofts and can accommodate up to 10 guests.

Staying in the cabin can be very social, as you can expect to meet and get to know other guests from all over of the world.

Price: .................. NOK 1,195 pp Children age 4-15 years: 50% discount

NIGHT IN AURORA CHALET (PRIVATE) 2 guests

The Aurora Chalet is our private accommodation for two guests.

These small cabins are heated but do not have running water. One of the roof sides has a window with a bed placed right under the window.

Price: .................. NOK 1,295 Children age 4-15 years: 50% discount.

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-

NIGHT IN THE GAMME (PRIVATE) 2 guests

The gamme is a private Sami-style tent for two guests.

It is heated to keep the gamme warm and cosy, but there is no running water. Each gamme is equipped with double bed, table and two chairs.

Price: .................. NOK 1,295 Children age 4-15 years: 50% discount.

-

NIGHT IN SAMI TENT (NOT PRIVATE) 6 berths/12 guests

You will sleep in our winter sleeping bags on top of reindeer skins. The lavvu has a capacity of 12 guests.

Please note that you will be sharing the lavvu with other visitors, but you will have your own sleeping berth. Not recommended for children under 12.

Price: .................. NOK 1,195 Children age 12-15 years: 50% discount.

-

NIGHT IN THE CHAR CABIN (PRIVATE) 2-4 guests It is perfect for 2-4 people.

The Char Cabin is a private cabin located about 100m from the camp, and has everything a proper cabin should, including a loft where you will sleep. There is no running water.

Price: .................. NOK 1,495 Children age 4-15 years: 50% discount.

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Download the app Visit» «Tromso Winter gle Play in App Store and Goo

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PERFECT PLACE TO STAY ON ROAD TRIP If you are exploring the Tromsø region by car, Malangen Resort is the perfect place to stay.

You can either stay overnight in relaxing surroundings to break up your journey or stay several days and use the resort as a base to explore the Tromsø region and Senja.

Guests can stay in spacious family cabins, deluxe cabins with sea views or stylish waterfront apartments.

Malangen Resort is centrally located for exploring by car, yet far removed from the hustle and bustle of city life. The quiet road passing the resort leads to the E6 highway (35 min) and to Tromsø via the Rya tunnel (70 min).

The comfortable accommodation, relaxing atmosphere, scenic views of the fjord and mountains and outdoor recreation activities on offer enable you to have a refreshing break before continuing by road.

There is little traffic on the road passing the resort, making it ideal for cycling or strolling beside the fjord. It’s ideal for families with young children and other travellers wishing to travel on a quiet, scenic route to or from Tromsø.

The area around Malangen Resort provides countless opportunities for short walks or longer hikes in the mountains. Freshwater fishing in idyllic mountain lakes is another option.

www.malangen.com +47 77 65 58 00 booking@malangenresort.com

APARTMENTS

Awake to the relaxing sound of waves.

SEA VIEW

Price............. NOK 1,245 Appartment facilities

Kitchenette, refrigerator, sea view, sofa, balcony, shower, toilet & bathroom

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Apartment size 45 m²

Beds

1 double bed and 1 bunkbed Please note that the cabins do not have cable TV, Wi-Fi access or direct fjord access.

-

SEA VIEW

Price............. NOK 2,395 Cabin facilities

Full kitchen, refrigerator, sea view, sofa, sea view balcony, shower, toilets & bathroom.

Size

102 m²

Bedrooms/beds

3 bedrooms, 1double bed + 2 bunkbeds Please note that the cabins do not have cable TV, Wi-Fi access or direct fjord access.

STANDARD CABINS Ideal for larger families or smaller groups.

-

Size

WATERFRONT

85 m²

Price............. NOK 2,150

Bedrooms/beds

3 bedrooms, 1double bed + various beds.

Cabin facilities

Kitchen, refrigerator, sea view, sofa, balcony, shower, toilet & bathroom.

Please note that the cabins do not have cable TV or Wi-Fi access.

-

SEA VIEW

Price............. NOK 1,895 Cabin facilities

Kitchen, refrigerator, sea view, sofa, balcony, shower, toilet & bathroom.

Size

85 m²

Bedrooms/beds

3 bedrooms, 1double bed + various beds.

Please note that the cabins do not have cable TV, Wi-Fi access or direct fjord access.

PANORAMIC CABINS

Ideal for larger families or smaller groups, these cabins provide the best views towards the fjord.

-

WATERFRONT Price............. NOK 2,695 Cabin facilities

Kitchen, refrigerator, sea view, sofa, 3 balconies, shower, 2 toilets, 1 bathroom.

Size

102 m²

Bedrooms/beds

3 bedrooms, 1double bed + various beds.

Please note that the cabins do not have cable TV or Wi-Fi access.

www.malangen.com +47 77 65 58 00 booking@malangenresort.com

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MAGNAR GULLIKSTAD JOHNSEN

The People of Tromsø

Age: 36 Civil status: Married Lives in: Detached house Typical weekend food: Things that take a bit longer like homemade pizza or rosted meat Favourite café/bar: Bardus Bar and Verdensteateret Bar og Kafé Tips for tourists: Northern Lights exhibition at Tromsø Museum Typical Sunday activity: Relaxing on a sofa with coffee and a newspaper

THE NORTHERN LIGHTS RESEARCHER The solar activity that causes the Northern Lights has an 11-year cycle. We are now entering a solar minimum, the quiet phase.

“We have heard that cruise lines have cancelled cruises because they thought the Northern Lights had finished for this cycle,” says Johnsen, who is a researcher at the Tromsø Geophysical Observatory at UiT The Arctic University of Norway.

Solar minimum means there are fewer solar storms or, to use more technical terms, fewer solar flares or coronal mass ejections.

“The Northern Lights can be seen in Southern Norway when there is major solar flare activity, but in Tromsø every day no matter where in the cycle the sun is. The Northern Lights in Tromsø are caused the day to day activity on the sun. This means although there will be less Northern Lights in the south, that will not be the case in Tromsø,” he says.

THE NORTHERN LIGHTS OBSERVATORY

The Geophysical Observatory is continuing the legacy of the former Northern Lights Observatory, which has a long history. “The

Tromsø is a centre of Northern Lights research. If there’s an alternative, it may be Fairbanks in Alaska.

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observatory was founded in 1928 using money from the Rockefeller Foundation. We hold continuous data from that time up to the present day. One of our most important tasks is collecting observations and maintaining continuity with this,” says Johnsen.

The observatory is located on top of the island of Tromsøya within walking distance of downtown Tromsø. The original buildings and measuring instruments are located here.

“Considering how close this is to light pollution from the city, there are good conditions for observing the Northern Lights up there.”

Johnsen’s department only has eight employees, but they do an important job.

“We monitor and forecast space weather.

The electromagnetic radiation from space can affect compasses. The oil industry uses compasses when drilling for oil. The further north the excavation work is taking place, the more vulnerable the compasses are to interference from the sun. We help them to adjust for such interference.”

THE CARRINGTON EVENT

The forces that create the Northern Lights can be dangerous.

“Strong solar flares create beautiful Northern Lights, but they can also cause damage to, for instance, the power grid,” he says, adding: “In 1989 Quebec was hit by a major power failure when a transformer station was overloaded by radiation from space. As a result, six million people were without power.”

The largest solar storm we know of occurred in 1859 and is known as the Carrington Event. It was so powerful that apparently telegraph lines started to produce sparks.

“We have not experienced anything like it since then, but we would be much more vulnerable in today’s society. We are unsure

exactly what could happen, but it has the potential to hit satellites and create long power outages,” says Johnsen.

CENTRE FOR NORTHERN LIGHTS RESEARCH

Johnsen is originally from Røros, an historic mining town in Trøndelag that is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Røros is so far south that Northern Lights activity is rare there although it does occur.

“My first memory of the Northern Lights was at home in Røros. My parents woke my brother and I up at night so we could see the Northern Lights.”

Although Johnsen’s main interest is the underlying physics, he is also fascinated by the visible Northern Lights.

“The dynamics and colours are unlike any other natural phenomenon and every aurora is unique, which means you never get tired of it.”

Johnsen lives in Tromsø with his wife, they are expecting their first child and he has no immediate plans to move back to Røros.

“Tromsø is a centre of Northern Lights research. If there’s an alternative, it may be Fairbanks in Alaska. It is located at the same geomagnetic latitude as Tromsø and consequently has just as much Northern Lights activity. But Fairbanks does not have the Gulf Stream so the winters there are much colder than here,” he says.

Johnsen is fond of Tromsø and he takes advantage of the nature areas as well as the cultural offerings. But one place stands out as his favourite in town.

“The observatory. It’s full of history. There are instruments there from the early 1920s.

Some of these were in use right up to the digitalization in the late 1980s,” says Johnsen.

by Ron Røstad

Located in the fabulous wilderness, close to an urban city life

tromsolodgeandcamping

29 www.tromsolodgeandcamping.no

Lake Rypdalsvatnan (of deep blue colour), Rypdalsbreen Glacier and surrounding mountains in the Lyngen Alps.

LYNGEN ALPS The wide chain of peaks starts out on the tip of the Lyngen Peninsula, between the two big fjords, the Ullsfjord and the Lyngen Fjord.

The peninsula between the fjords is 15-20 km wide, and in both fjords mountains higher than 1000 m drop vertically down in the blue water.

100 KM LONG

The mountain chain continues on the peninsula, all the way to the Swedish border. This makes the Lyngen Alps more than 100 km long, depending on definition.

Between the peaks, there are also more gentle hills and plateaus. Here you find 30

The mountain chain continues on the peninsula, all the way to the Swedish border.

beautiful valleys, forests, cascading rivers, and countless lakes.

Still the area is dominated by the wild peaks, several glaciers and deep ravines.

The highest mountain, Jiehkkevarri, is 1833 m above sea level. And “above sea level� in the Lyngen Alps area means that the sea it self is the foot of the mountain.

EXTRAORDINARY WILDLIFE

The first signs of settlement are from the Stone Age, but the first churches in the area came as late as the 18th century.

The population in the area today is still low and scattered. The largest settlement, Lyngseidet, has a population of approximately 800.

The wildlife is extraordinary, with whales, seals, white-tailed eagles and a wide variety of other bird species, as well as all kinds of Arctic mammals on land. You can catch cod, coalfish, wolf fish and haddock in the fjord. In the mountain lakes you can catch trout and Arctic char.

OFF-PISTE

The Lyngen Alps are famous for off-piste skiing. You can literally ski from the summits down to the sea. Several companies provide return transfers by boat to the most fabulous locations.

by John A . Angelsen

201 8

Summer Concerts Midnight Sun Concerts

Organ Concerts

Every night at 23:00 June 01 – August 15 NOK 180/50

Every day at 14:00 June 01 – July 31 NOK 80

The majestic architecture of the Arctic Cathedral makes for a memorable moment with a suitable and varied concert program with a combination of solo vocals, piano, trumpet and cello.

Experience organ music played on a huge instrument by professional organists from Norway as well as from other countries. Enjoy the great acoustics on a visit to the Arctic Cathedral, an architectural masterpiece.

Tickets at entrance or online www.ishavskatedralen.no

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THE WORLD’S NORTHERNM A visit to Scotland inspired the founding of the world’s northernmost distillery, situated at an old NATO base in Lyngen in Troms County in Northern Norway.

T

he story behind the Lyngen distillery is interesting in itself.

Hans-Olav Eriksen was a general practitioner who started with adventure tourism – Lyngsfjord Adventure – in 2008. It soon became apparent that the tourism industry needed a quality standard, and Eriksen travelled to Scotland in 2010 to investigate their Quality Assurance scheme. The trip proved to be an eye opener.

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RESEMBLES SCOTLAND

Eriksen observed that the Scottish fauna, landscape and nature had a striking similarity to where he grew up by the Lyngenfjord near Tromsø. The nature was the raw material for the Scots’ most important product: whiskey. Hence, it was entirely transferable to the conditions in the cold north.

Eriksen toyed with the idea of creating an Arctic whisky, but others

regarded this idea as a joke.

"However, the first batch of gin was finished in September 2016 and the whisky will be ready for storage in the middle of November", Tor Petter Christensen says. He is the CEO at the newly constructed distillery Aurora Spirits at Årøybukt in Lyngen in Northern Norway. The distillery has its name from the aurora borealis, more commonly known as the Northern Lights.

The world’s northernmost distillery

ACTIVITIES AT THE DISTILLERY Under the glow of the Northern Lights, or the warmth of the Midnight Sun, Aurora Spirit is proud to give you some of the best the Arctic has to offer. We offer interesting experiences and products, hand crafted at the foot of the majestic Lyngen Alps bordered by the Arctic Ocean.

Daily schedule*: 12:00

13:00

14:00

NATO Jacuzzi

ADE GWT

ADE

RIB

AXE DIE / MAE

ADE - Arctic Distillation Experience - NOK 299 NATO - NATO Base Experience - NOK 299 Jacuzzi - Lyngenfjord Jacuzzi Experience - NOK 499 RIB - The Lyngenfjord Experience - from NOK 990 GWT - Guided Whisky Tour- NOK 249 AXE - Arctic Axe Throwing Experience - NOK 299 DIE - Distillers Experience - NOK 399 MAE - Manager's Experience - NOK 899 *Subject to seasonal changes..

Please check out www.lyngen.com to be sure.

M OST DISTILLERY is built on a former NATO coastal fort from the Cold War and stores its casks in old tunnels once used for military purposes.

SHAPES LOCAL COMMUNITIES

Scottish distilleries directly inspired the creation of the distillery.

“We saw how distilleries shape the identity of local Scottish communities and attract tourism, and we wondered why we weren’t doing

the same,” Christensen admits.

He is now using Aurora Spirit Distillery's visitor centre to actively promote the identity, culture and heritage of the Arctic.

“The people of northern Norway are extremely social, outgoing and fun, but we still have a way to go in telling that story to the world. That’s changing fast, and I’m very optimistic about the future,” the CEO concludes.

Distances to AuroraSpirit : • From Tromso via Breivikeidet : 75 km (1h 45 min) • From Tromso via Nordkjosbotn 140 km (1 hr 50 min) • From Lyngseidet : 10 km (10 min) Free parking for cars and buses outside the distillery.

MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKING: www.lyngen.com Phone- all services: +47 919 04260 33

Challenge yourself in the Arctic wilderness

DAY 1 – DEPARTURE FROM NORWAY

We depart from Tromso at 08.30 in the morning and drive in pairs in Arctic Trucks to the wilderness centre of Camp Tamok. On arrival, you will receive your summer clothes and boots, and all necessary equipment. After lunch in a traditional lavvu (Sami herdsmen’s tent), we will continue driving to Sweden. On the way to the Joukesjarvi Ice Hotel, we will stop for guiding, to take photos and enjoy an early dinner. One of the photo stops will be at the Norway-Sweden border.

DAY 1 – ARRIVAL IN SWEDEN

We arrive at the Joukesjaervi Ice Hotel in the evening.

On arrival, we will have a guided tour of the largest ice structure in Europe and you can admire the fantastic ice sculptures. You will be served a delicious hot supper before spending your first night in your dome tent.

DAY 2 – MOVING TO FINLAND

Then it’s time to really test your driving skills. We will head into the wilderness in the Arctic Trucks and drive off-road for miles. We end the day with an authentic Finnish sauna and stay overnight in the dome tent in Finland.

DAY 3 – RIVER RAFTING IN LAPLAND

Today, river rafting is on the schedule! Before starting your guide will explain important safety instructions and show the basics about paddling. The rafting will start straight from the banks of the Harriniva shore.

With 6 km paddling, 4 rapids and 24 m drop in total.

No one will leave dry! After rafting, it’s nice to dry your clothes around fire while drinking coffee.

DAY 3 – RIB TO AURORA SPIRIT

After exciting River rafting, we will cross the international border back to Norway then park the Arctic Trucks and speed across the scenic Lyngen fjord in a rigid inflatable boat (RIB). We will arrive at the world’s northernmost distillery, Aurora Spirit, where you will go on a guided tour, have a private tasting, enjoy a delicious dinner then stay overnight in a comfortable, modern cabin.

DAY 4 – DEPARTURE TROMSO AND NORWAY

After breakfast at Aurora Spirit, we will drive back to Tromso. We will arrive in downtown Tromso around 13.00. We will send the photos to your private e-mail address. When you arrive in Tromso, you will have completed a four-day expedition by driving through three countries and participating in several exciting activities in the Arctic wilderness. The adventure may be over, but the memories will last a lifetime.

Well done!

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SEASON: 1. June - 30. September DEPARTURE: 08:30 from downtown Tromso (Scandic Ishavshotel) DURATION: 4 days/3 nights CAPACITY: 2-8 people

Norwegian fjords, Swedish domes and Finnish Lapland

SUMMER Our four-day expedition will take you from Tromso, Norway, through Sweden and Finland before heading back to Norway.

PRICE: NOK 68 500 p.p.

ALL INCLUSIVE: Accommodation, activities, meals, drinks, guiding, warm clothes and boots, use of Arctic Trucks and all necessary equipment

CONTACT INFORMATION

post@arcticcircleexpedition.com +47 777 15588

www.arcticcircleexpedition.com 35

WELCOME TO THE MOUNTAINS! You will find us in the Land of the Midnight Sun in Troms county. Målselv Mountain Village offers awide range of exciting activities year-round. In summer, you can enjoy some of the world’s most attractive fishing, experience exotic scenery, get to know the fascinating fauna and flora of the Arctic and much more. We can customize an experience package for the whole family.

TROMSØ 133 km 1 t 50’

FINNSNES

A C C O M M O D AT I O N

50 km

Stay comfortable and close to the nature. Choose between modern three-bedroom apartments with kitchen/living room, bathroom and sauna, or cosy, well equipped cabins designed for larger families.

SCENIC SURROUNDINGS Målselv Fjellandsby is situated in scenic surroundings within easy driving distance of the towns of Harstad, Narvik, Finnsnes and Tromsø.

The E6 highway passes through the municipality. The approximate driving time is 2 hours from Tromsø and Narvik, 2h 40 min from Harstad and just 45 min from Finnsnes and Senja. It is a 25-minute drive from Bardufoss Airport, which has several daily flights to/from Oslo.

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45’

HARSTAD

Bardufoss Airport

Målselv Mountain Village

250 km

BOOKING:

2h 40’ 142 km

NARVIK

2t

mountainvillage.no // booking@ mountainvillage.no // +47 9414 0000

SALMON FISHING – guided tour Målselv River is one of the most famous rivers in Norway for salmon fishing. Every summer from June to August, our guests can enjoy a fishing tour with an experienced guide who will take care of the whole experience. Fishing from land or from a boat, the guest will learn about Norwegian fishing tradition and the fish species in this Arctic river.

DURATION: From 2 hours INCLUDED: Guide, transport, fishing gear, coffee and snacks

HIKING – guided tour When the snow melts and the trees become green, our guide invite our guests to explore the beautiful nature in the Målselv region. The guests will hear about the fauna and flora, as well as the Norwegian outdoor lifestyle. Good hiking boots are required.

DURATION: 2.5 hours INCLUDED: Guide, transport (if needed), hot drink and snacks VISIT MÅLSELVFOSSEN WATERFALL Norway’s national waterfall, Målselvfossen, is 600 m long with three falls and vast volumes of water, surrounded by amazing scenery.

Guests will see Europe’s longest salmon ladder. The guide will share knowledge about the waterfall and the local fishing traditions.

DURATION: 2 hours INCLUDED: Guide, transport

POLAR PARK Polar Park is the world’s northernmost wildlife park and home to Norway’s large predators such as bears, wolves, and lynx, as well deer, moose, reindeer and muskox. The park offers photo guiding anda wolf visit, which enables the guests to meet the wolves inside the enclosure.

DURATION: 5 hours INCLUDED: Admission

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A Sami family poses by a lavvu 100 years ago.

PEOPLE OF THE NORTH The Sami history and ancient religion are full of tales and mysteries.

A long time before any national borders existed, the Sami people of Arctic Europe lived in a wide area that stretches over the regions now known as the northern parts of Norway, Sweden, Finland and the Russian Kola Peninsula. This area is internationally best known as Lapland, but the Sami people of Norway call their area Sapmi.

LARGEST POPULATION

Norway is the country with the largest population of Sami people, around 40,000.

In the village of Karasjok in Northern Norway, the Sami people have their own parliament, working to represent the Sami population, and to protect and promote their unique culture. The Sami flag has a circle as symbol for the sun (red) and the moon (blue). These colours may also be found in the characteristic detailed embroidery on the traditional Sami clothing.

Most of all the Sami people are known 40

for their free semi-nomadic mountain lives, constantly moving reindeer flocks between the summer grazing land by the coast and the Lapland tundra in the winter. There are about 100,000 reindeer in the Norwegian part of Lapland. The very tasty reindeer meat is considered to be healthy.

DUOJI

The clothing and traditional handicraft of the Sami people (known as duodji) shows that their society has always been very aesthetically oriented. Regular artefacts have been decorated and richly ornamented. Duodji training used to be a natural part of the upbringing and from ancient times was known as a Sami specialty.

In the old days, the Sami shamans (known as noaiddit) had a lot of respect in the area, also from other Norwegians.

There are countless stories of shaman achievements, both in terms of clairvoyance and their abilities to use witchcraft.

by John A . Angelsen

Pictured is Sami man Roar AndrĂŠ Kemi Nyheim, who owns the reindeer used in the tourism activities at Camp Tamok for Lyngsfjord Adventure. Nyheim is renowned for his exciting stories, which he will gladly share with the guests around the open fire at Camp Tamok.

Photo: Sweet Films

Welcome to our new Tourist Information Centre at Prostneset.

We love to give you information and to help you choose some cool arctic activities to make your stay unforgettable. You can also book your activities now online at www.visittromso.no.

We look forward to seeing you!

AN ARCHITECTURAL MIX Perhaps the first thing you will notice in Tromsø is the wooden houses.

In contrast to many other towns in North Norway, Tromsø was not destroyed during the war. It was not only the working class who lived in these wooden houses. Up to the start of last century, monumental buildings were often built of wood. This is modelled on big cities, and in downtown Tromsø you can find traces of Moscow, Athens, Amsterdam, Istanbul, Italy, Bergen and Tokyo. Even the small sausage kiosk on the main market square complete with its onion dome was based on similar buildings overseas. However, despite the attempt to be international, when you wander in Tromsø you will not think for a second that you are actually in Vienna or Paris.

In an effort to create a more unique local identity, some buildings have been inspired by nature, such as the Arctic Cathedral with its ice-like, white facade.

The Arctic experience centre Polaria and the hotel The Edge also have ice and the cold as themes. While this may be cool, you can also ask yourself if we have enough ice and cold as it is.

HAPPY AMATURERS

The do-it-yourself builder has left their mark on Tromsø.

There are many solutions that are clearly built by happy amateurs. This is particularly visible in residential areas, where you can see creative solutions for stairs, balconies or extensions. While some may think this is ugly, it has become part of our cultural heritage. The climate means that you think practically rather than aesthetically.

The city has its fair share of non-aesthetic, but practical solutions, which has led to Tromsø having a reputation as an ugly and chaotic city. Ugly or not, once you are here take a look at the buildings that we have built, which we live and work in.

In Tromsø, it’s not so common to draw the curtains at night. Feel free to take a discreet peek into our homes because one thing is certain, in Tromsø the inside of the houses is more important than the outside.

It’s inside the houses that we spend the most time, and this is where we really put our pride into making it nice.

FROM CINEMA TO LIBRARY

When Focus cinema opened in 1973, it was a modern and funky building. Nevertheless, this large cinema rapidly became outdated. In 2003 the entire old cinema building was demolished apart from its characteristic roof. A new library was built under the roof, and this new library is well worth a visit. You can warm up while enjoying a nice view of the city. If you visit the small bar Perez in the north of the city centre, you can sit on the old cinema seats.

DEBATE ABOUT HIGH-RISE BUILDINGS Building a high-rise hotel on this site has been planned since the early 1990s, but the height was so controversial that for a long time the municipal council opposed it. Every time high-rise buildings are proposed, it triggers debate. However, high-rise buildings have one undisputed advantage: the view from the top. A visit to the hotel’s Sky bar is recommended.

DOWNING STREET?

As you stroll along, it’s worth taking a closer look at the doors of the old wooden houses. They are often painstakingly made and inspired by antiquity, as was often the case elsewhere in the world at that time.

Sjøgata 10 is a good example. This door has columns carved in the wood and you can see a certain resemblance to the front door of a famous number 10, namely Number 10 Downing Street. by: Ron Røstad

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OLDEST STREET Sjøgata is the oldest street in Tromsø and Northern Norway.

This was the main street in Tromsø until Storgata took over in the late 19th century.

Many of the buildings were destroyed during the big fire in 1969, but thankfully some were preserved.

PLUSH TOWN

If you wander in the streets slightly above the city centre, you will find the so-called “plush town”. In the late 19th century, the privileged residents built their summer residences here. It was a never-ending party during the brief but bright summers.

It was not uncommon for the people here to go from house to house looking for a party without giving a thought to the time. Someone was always awake.

In time, these houses became permanent residences year-round, but to this day this is considered a better part of town.

WHAT TROMSØ WAS LIKE

A SQUARE TO WARM UP IN

Tromsø is a region that is rich in food. If you visit Kystens Hus, you can buy fish, meat and other products from traditional, local producers or enjoy local food in the restaurant. The big stairs in the middle of the building provide visitors the opportunity to sit down and watch life go by without freezing or sitting at a café. The architecture is controversial. Some think the black facades are sad, while others perceive it as a stylish, modern building. The Coastal House unites two things that are important to Tromsø: fish and controversial architecture.

Unlike Stockholm or Tallinn, Tromsø does not have an Old Town. Actually, all of downtown Tromsø is an old town. The oldest houses, which are up to 200 years old, are spread fairly evenly across the entire city. At the northern end of the city centre, you will find an area that is characterized by modern architecture to a lesser extent than otherwise. You will also find a street that is built on the model of Tromso in the 19th century. Several older wooden houses have been moved to this area and the street has streetlights that resemble the earliest electric street lights.

The street is “macadamised” and not asphalted. The pavement, or trottoir as it was called in Tromsø in the old days, consists of slate slabs and the gutter is made of cobblestones.

FIRST LINE OF DEFENCE The history of Tromsø dates back to the 13th century when a church and a fortress were established here. The fortress was originally situated on an islet with a clear view of the strait. In all likelihood, the fortress was surrounded by a palisade. Today, the fortress is not quite as impressive. There are no towers and walls, but there is a circular earth wall.

Modest or not, this was Norway’s first line of defence against a possible attack from Novgorod. It’s fair to say that Skansen was the Western European civilisation’s absolute outpost in the north and east and the beginning of 800 years (so far unfounded) of fear of Russian aggression.

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PER MARTINSEN

Age: 51 Civil status: Married with children Lives in: Apartment in an old hose in the city centre Typical weekend food: Variation is probably most common Favourite café/bar: Verdensteateret Bar og Kafé and Risø kaffebar Tips for tourists: Visit the suburbs of Stakkevollan, Håpet and Kroken Typical Sunday activity: Go on a hike or a city walk with a cup of coffee

The People of Tromsø

THE ARCTIC DJ Per Martinsen is a DJ and musician who lives in Tromsø. His interest in music started when he at age three he started playing single records on his mother’s old portable record player.

“The first record I bought myself was one

by T-Rex. I bought it at the local grocery store in 1972. Back then it was normal to sell LPs at grocery stores. I like the idea that music was classed alongside food as a primary need,” says Martinsen.

Martinsen grew up in Tromsø in the 1970s. Things were a lot different back then.

“We didn’t have much access to information. There was only one TV channel and one radio channel.”

Martinsen did not think there was anything unusual about growing up in Tromsø.

“It was only when I started to watch American youth films that it struck me how many toys and other things there were in what were supposed to be normal American children’s bedroom. The rooms were overflowing with things. This was before the wealth came to Norway along with oil in the

When I listened to Kraftwerk for the first time, the lights started flashing all over Tromsø.

44

1980s and we did not have so many things,” says Martinsen.

However, hobby electronics was one thing that existed. “I built my own FM radio, video games and other things. I was a real ‘hardware hacker’ who liked to unscrew things. My mother’s old record player ended up in small pieces and was never reassembled.”

He discovered electronic music through the German band Kraftwerk.

“When I listened to Kraftwerk for the first time, the lights started flashing all over Tromsø. There were a number of small power cuts in the city, as if it was a sign from the beyond. I realized that electronics and music could unite. Electronic music was for me,” says Martinsen.

ARCTIC SOUND

There was an electronic music wave in Tromsø in the 1990s, with names such as Bel Canto, Biosphere and Röyksopp. Martinsen lived in London at the time and produced industrial electronica without a hint of the Arctic, but he does not rule out that the environment influences the music of artists with links to Northern Norway.

“Music friends from London have described North Norwegian electronica and ambient music as distinctive. There are blankets of sound and more space. It may be related to the environment here. The darkness, the sky and the openness. Biosphere (Geir Jenssen) is best known for this,” he says.

However, the Arctic winter is not only dark. “When I think back to my childhood, I don’t remember the winter as being dark. I perceived it as light. Perhaps it’s because the snow changes the perception of darkness.

The darkest evenings I experienced were in Tanzania and India.”

LITTLE TOWN BLUES

Martinsen loves big cities. However, he moved back to Tromsø in 2005 after 20 years, including periods living in Oslo and Berlin. He has settled down with his wife and children.

“We moved back to Tromsø at a time when a lot was happening with the cultural life in the city. An art academy was established here and many cultural people moved here.”

Martinsen is married to Aggie Frost Peterson, who is also a musician, and they do a lot of things together.

“Among other things, we made music for silent films in conjunction with the Tromsø Film Festival. We went on a tour of Russia with the music. It has been an exciting time in Tromsø, but the big cities beckon constantly.

As father of young children, he thinks Tromsø is a good place for children, but other places also have qualities.

“The whole family lived in East London for a few months and we enjoyed life there.

They have made a major effort to make the area better for children and young people, including by building nice children’s play areas. I have a daughter and she cried when she saw the little slide at the play area at Strandtorget in Tromsø,” says Martinsen.

If you want to find the essence of Tromsø, Martinsen recommends walking along the quayside. “This is where you can see Tromsø’s character best. You can see the city, the boats, the Tromsø Bridge and landscape.”

W

e are a small, local family-run company. Since 2004, we have been providing guests adventures straight from our hearts. We offer various boat trips by RIB/Zodiac and Northern Lights trips in small groups. For us it’s more than “Miss Aurora” or the Midnight Sun; it’s also about meeting people.

We present the local culture while enabling you to experience the fresh sea air, peace and clear, beautiful colours surrounding us. We are deeply grateful to be part of the magical moments when Mother Nature reveals herself to you, in all her glory.

Welcome to authentic adventures in Arctic Norway!

JOIN US ON OUR TOURS: A TASTE OF NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD BY RIB Pick-up time Duration Price Approx. 2.5 hrs Adults: NOK 1 230 10:00 Age 7-11: NOK 630 SEA BIRDS, SEALS, AND MUSEUM VISIT INCLUDING RIB TRIP Duration Approx. 3 hrs

Pick-up time Price Adults: NOK 1 030 13:30 (1.30pm) Age 7-11: NOK 730 MIDNIGHT RIB ADVENTURE

Duration Aprox. 3 hrs

Pick-up time Price Adults: NOK 1 230 23:00 (11pm) Age 7-11: NOK 630

BOOK YOUR TOUR AT www.tromso-friluftsenter.no info@tromso-friluftsenter.no +47 9075 1583 45

With its superbl y firm white meat, this giant of the sea ranks among the most impressive and exquisite shellfish you can ser ve.

King Crab

ARCTIC DISHES Produce grown in the Arctic develops a unique taste. This may be attributed to several reasons: sun around the clock, a cold climate and a lack of pollution.

A

rctic produce has always been highly sought after. Some of our produce is renowned far beyond the countr y’s borders, while others are virtually unknown and are ready for a larger audience.

Here are a few details about some of the best known:

46

LAMB

The lambs are released onto the pastures in June and the North Norwegian summer, which is rarely too hot, provides an abundance of food and nourishing herbs.

Sheep and lamb are a bit fussy about their diet, but find many of their favourite foods in the Arctic regions. They enjoy a varied diet and often wander from mountain peak down to the seashore, which we have a lot of.

This generates ver y fit lambs with plenty of marbled fat and lots of flavour. You can almost

taste the North Norwegian nature when you eat the lamb.

They wander in the g reat outdoors almost from their birth until they are slaughtered and they consume minimal quantities of g rain feed. Since it is impossible to find better g rowing condition, lamb from the Arctic is among the ver y best in the world.

KING CRAB

For a long time, there was major debate about whether the king crab was actually welcome along

Pan roast of cod loin

The moose is Norway’s largest wild deer species. There is little commercial sale of moose meat, but the moose hunting season each autumn generates large revenues. Moose meat is lean and the taste varies according to the animal’s diet.

Ing redients (4 ser vings) 4 loins Norwegian cod fillets 1 kg potato, new 400 g g reen beans 1 lemon 4 cloves garlic 10 leaves sage 4 tbsp olive oil Pe pper, fresh cracked salt

Procedure

Moose

SPAWNING COD

Cod is perhaps the main reason why people live in the Arctic. It has been the most important commodity since time immemorial, for e xport as well as domestic

in olive oil and sage. Squeeze in lemon juice, tuck in the lemon skins and garlic cloves.

3. Season with a little salt and pepper

The Old Norwegian is a primitive and extremel y old species of shee p. The y are descendents of shee p that have existed in Norway for more than 3000 years. Combined with other shee p species , the Old Norwegian is light-footed and fast and can g raze outside all year round.

the Norwegian coast. One thing that is not up for debate is that it is a fresh ing redient from the ver y top shelf. The king crab is a versatile ing redient that can be prepared in a variety of ways. It is on a par with Norway lobster and the European lobster. Its legs are crammed full of delicious, juicy meat without a lot of bones and cartilage. As it has no enemies, the king crab has made its entr y along the entire North Norwegian coast and is thriving in our clean, unspoiled and cold waters.

1. Preheat oven to 200*C 2. In large roasting tin, toss potatoes

and roast in oven for 15 minutes.

4. Whilst potatoes roast, blanch green beans in a pan of boiling water for 3-4mins.

5. Drain well then toss through the

potatoes, ensure they are coated in oil.

6. Lay fish fillets on top and season consumption. Cod – and in particular the spawning cod in winter – remains a ver y important part of the North Norwegian livelihood. When the cod (known as skrei in Norwegian) finally reach the coast in Januar y/Februar y after a long mig ration from the Barents Sea, it is in e xcellent physical condition and ready to

with a little more salt and pepper.

Drizzle fish with a little olive oil and roast in oven for around 12 more minutes or until fish is opaque and cooked through (cooking time may vary depending on your fillet size).

7. Serve immediately, pouring over the delicious roasting juices.

Cod

47

Cloudber r y

The famous North Norwegian chef Adolf Henrik Lindstrøm, partisipated on expedtitions with Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen.

Lindstrøm is the inventor of the dish ’steak á la Lindstrøm”.

spawn. Owing to the long mig ration, the loin is much thicker and the meat quality is far higher than for other cod. It is packed full of flavour and has a wonderful te xture. The meat is as white as chalk and full of nutrients. The Arctic spawning cod is an ing redient that chefs worldwide recognize as something special. It is right up there with the likes of truffle, caviar and foie g ras. It’s a real luxur y product.

HALIBUT

Halibut is another fish with a long histor y in our Arctic region. It is also called hellefisk (translated as holy fish), which is derived from the Norse name heilag r fiskr. This indicates the status this fish has had throughout histor y. Rock art that is more than 10,000 years old has been found, which celebrates the halibut as a fish of the gods.

Halibut was often eaten on

Halibut 48

Fish farm

special occasions and remains a luxur y item. Halibut can be ver y large and it is not uncommon to catch halibut weighing well over 100 kg. The record for the largest halibut ever caught is 314.5 kg.

SHRIMPS

Shrimps from clean Arctic waters have plentiful access to food. As a result, the shrimps can g row big and fat and develop plenty of flavour. They almost taste a bit sweet. Shrimps can be eaten in the traditional manner with bread and mayonnaise or can be prepared in many different ways. Raw shrimps – shrimps that have not been boiled – have a sweet taste and can be perceived almost like fat on the palate. They are perfect for frying and very receptive to taste. Try shrimp in sushi or salad or perhaps in a wok dish.

In 2014 Norway’s exports of salmon and trout totalled NOK 46.2 billion. The average price for fresh whole salmon was NOK 41.06 per kilo, which re presented a 3.4% rise from the previous year.

CLOUDBERRIES

These small orange flavour bombs g row almost e xclusively in the Arctic. They thrive best in marshlands, but can also g row in common heath. They have a sweet characteristic, intense flavour that is a little reminiscent of peaches, but a completely unique and distinctive taste that simply must be e xperienced. Cloudberries are quite susceptible to weather and frost can destroy an entire cloudberr y crop. It takes a long time for cloudberries to ripen and they are often not ready to pick until the late summer or early autumn.

VEGETABLES/POTATOES Not all vegetables are suited to g rowing in the Arctic, but the vegetables that do g row here develop an e xceptional flavour.

Stockfish

Steak à la Lindstrøm Ing redients

400 g mince 1 tsp salt 1/4 tsp pe pper 1 egg 100 ml milk 2 boiled potatoes (diced) 2 T finel y chopped onion 2 T finel y chopped pickled beetroot 2 T gherkin (chopped) 1 T ca pers 2 T butter or cooking oil for fr ying

This article is written by Halvar Ellingsen.

He has been a regular member of the Norwegian Culinary Team since 2009.

Inspite of his young age, Ellingsen has won several awards. Ellingsen works at the well reputed Palace Grill restaurant in Oslo.

Procedure

1.

Mix the mince with salt and pepper and stir in the milk and beaten egg.

2. Stir the potato, onion, beetroot, gherkin and capers into the mixture.

3. Form into eight high patties. Melt the

butter in a frying pan and fry the patties over moderate heat for 2-3 minutes on each side.

Serve with fried potatoes, fried egg and pickled beetroot.

Reindeer

Slightly cool summers and slightly harsh growing conditions help the vegetables to develop far more flavour than vegetables that grow elsewhere. North of the Arctic Circle, we cultivate a wonderful potato called gulløye (literally translated as “yellow eye”). It has a delicate yellow flesh, a slightly floury texture and a strong potato flavour.

REINDEER

If there is one ing redient that is truly Arctic then it has to be reindeer. Large areas with abundant food make the Arctic perfect for reindeer. The reindeer is well equipped to sur vive the cold and snow in the north and it has few enemies. Reindeer meat is lean and full of flavour. The meat is tender and can be cooked in a

host of ways, ranging from stews and barbecues to pan-fr ying as steak.

These are but a few of the wonderful ingredients we have here. The excellent ingredients enable the chefs to create delicious dishes based on local ingredients.

49

GABRIELA CARLEHED JACOBSEN

The People of Tromsø

Age: 31 Civil status: Married, children Lives in: Apartment Typical weekend food: Taco, lasagne or a good soup Favourite café/bar: Svermeri in Skippergata Tips for tourists: Cable Car/Arctic Cathedral Typical Sunday activity: Sleep

THE SWEDE WITH AN EYE FOR A RESTAURANT

Gabriela Carlehed Jacobsen is from Lund in Southern Sweden, but lived in many places before finally settling in Tromsø with her husband and children. Not to mention a gastro bar that has become extremely popular.

“I have worked in the restaurant business for a long time and I was ready for a completely new challenge – to open something myself,” says Jacobsen.

She met four others who had the same dream while working at a restaurant in Lofoten. They decided to join forces and find a place to open their own restaurant.

“We spent a long time searching for the right place. We looked at premises in Oslo, Lund and Lofoten before finding the perfect place in Tromsø,” she says.

The five-strong group includes three from Tromsø, including her husband,

This is a nice city for children, especially when your grandparents live here. I also like having the nature close by.

50

Marius.

“When I got pregnant, another factor that made Tromsø a great choice was being close to his family.”

BAR IN AN HISTORIC HOUSE

Two years ago they opened the gastro bar Hildr in an historic house dating from the 1830s. The house has been home to people from the upper class, and in the 19th century it was an important venue for the town’s finer social happenings.

“The former residents of this house include the famous Norwegian writer Bernt Lie. The name Hildr is borrowed from the title of one of his books. It is important for us to preserve this history of this protected building,” says Jacobsen.

CHALLENGE THE CHEF

Hildr calls itself a gastro bar, but what this actually means is open to interpretation.

“We don’t want to put a label on our concept. We serve everything from parts of a course through to set five-course menus,” she says.

It is important that the chefs as well as the guests are constantly challenged.

“Each of the chefs create a five-course menu that lasts for two to three weeks.

They can choose whichever dishes they like, but they must create at least one dish that they have not cooked before,” says Jacobsen.

Hildr has proven popular with tourists and locals alike, but there is no typical Hildr guest.

“We are pleasantly surprised by the response. We thought it would take some time for the locals to discover us since we have a concept with a difference. The city has received us extremely well and the clientele is varied. A group of hip young people can be sitting at one table and businesspeople at the next.”

PARTY IN THE POLAR NIGHT

Jacobsen enjoys life in Tromsø, and she is not planning to move any time soon.

“This is a nice city for children, especially when your grandparents live here. I also like having the nature close by.”

The Polar Night is challenging, but Jacobsen has learned to live with it, even if it means sleeping more than in summer.

“There always seems to be festivals and other fun stuff happening in the city during the winter,” she says.

However, there is one thing that Jacobsen misses in Tromsø.

“It’s difficult to travel from Lund to Tromsø. There should be a direct flight to Copenhagen, which is just a short distance from Lund. I think this route would be popular,” says Jacobsen.

by R on R østad

OPENING HOURS SEE MATHALLENTROMSO.NO

BOOKING POST@MATHALLENTROMSO.NO P H O N E + 47 77 6 8 01 0 0 MATHALLENTROMSO.NO

THE RESTAURANT

THE DELI

Ingredients hand-picked by our chef are the secret behind our tasty lunches and delightful restaurant experiences. Menu items may change, but we always offer the absolute best in locally-sourced, seasonal meat and fish dishes, inspired by traditional northern Norwegian culinary tradition.

Mathallen offers great tasting, locally sourced products including fresh fish, meat products, cheeses, hams, and other delicious treats. In short: the best the culinary world has to offer.

FIND US AT GRØNNEGATA 58/60

51

CAFÉ AND WINEBAR Enjoy our charcuterie and cheese served with love and passion as wine and vinyl set the mood!

The food at Amtmandens is as simple as it is delicious. Tasty cheeses and meat products from Italy, France and Spain combined with local ingredients served on a board.

Every Saturday we serve open sandwiches from 12.00. amtmandens.no +47 928 34 206 Grønnegata 83 See City Map

OPENING HOURS: MON - THUR 15:00 - 01:00 FRIDAY 15:00 - 02:00 SATURDAY 12:00 - 02:00 CLOSED: 1-30 JULY

JØRN-HÅVARD EDVARDSEN

Age: 28 Civil status: Single Lives in: Apartment building Typical weekend food: Pizza Favourite café/bar: Compagniet Bar Tips for tourists: The Cable Car Typical Sunday activity: Relax with friends

The People of Tromsø

THE TAXI DRIVER WITH A WINDOW TO HEAVEN Jørn-Håvard Edvardsen drives a taxi in Tromsø. After recently investing in a new car, he can offer an attraction out of the ordinary.

“I think it’s important to enjoy my work and to have satisfied customers.

In order to achieve this, I want to offer something extra. My new car has a panoramic window in the roof so passengers can see the Northern Lights without being outside in the cold,” says Edvardsen.

Tourists wishing to see the Northern Lights are usually transported by bus.

“When you arrive after a bus trip, you watch the Northern Lights for 10 or 15 minutes before you head back, but some tourists wish to be out longer than that. Last winter I had three Chinese tourists with expensive cameras and tripods. I was out with them for three hours and they got to see and photograph the Northern Lights.

They had originally planned to be out

night.

54

Tromsø is a lively city and people go out every

for an hour and a half, but they decided to spend longer,” says Edvardsen.

They appreciated the panoramic window. “It was cold outside so they could sit inside and warm up but still check the sky,” says Edvardsen.

LIVELY CITY

Driving a taxi in Tromsø involves a lot of night work and meeting different people. Most passengers are permanent residents keen to get home after being out on the town.

“Tromsø is a lively city and people go out every night of the week. Driving at night means I get to hear a lot about people’s lives. People tell many things about themselves, especially when they are drunk. Sometimes I feel a bit like a hobby psychologist.”

Edvardsen is young and single, and he likes to go out too. “The best days are Thursday and especially Saturday.

On Friday, people often go out right after work and get tired early. There is less activity on Friday evenings than on Thursday or Saturday,” he says.

TROMSØ IS UNIQUE

For people from out of town, Tromsø seems like a challenging city to drive in. This is particularly the case in winter with slippery roads.

“I use non-studded winter tyres and have no trouble getting around. The biggest annoyance isn’t ice and snow, but the rule about giving way to the

right that applies in many intersections around the city,” he says.

Regardless of where in the world you are driving, there is one thing that always applies.

“Drive calmly. You won’t live any longer if you get agitated about things in traffic. The passengers also appreciate the driver being calm”.

REASONABLY PRICED

Visitors from other parts of the country experience some peculiarities when they travel by taxi.

“A survey a couple of years ago confirmed that Tromsø has the cheapest taxi fares in Norway. I have had passengers from Southern Norway who have been surprised by the price level. The other thing is that many people, especially Americans, ask if Uber exists in Tromsø. I haven’t heard of it here. Perhaps the market isn’t big enough here.”

Edvardsen enjoys life in Tromsø and has no plans to move.

“I especially enjoy the summer. I cycle a lot and go on mountain hikes. I lived for part of my childhood in Henrikvika, which is located just outside Tromsø. The nature there is wonderful and the hike up the mountain Nattmålsfjellet is great,” says Edvardsen.

by Ron Røstad

PHOTO: JOHN B. SLAATMO

NOK 7,770

PER GROUP

Private Midnight Sun Experience The tranquillity of watching a seemingly endless sunset turn into sunrise is hard to put into words. Experience it yourself by booking a private tour (maximum capacity 7 people).

We will take you tobeautiful places on the island of Kvaløya, west of Tromsø, to enjoy the best views of the setting sun - at midnight!

When we find a good spot, we take pictures, teach you the right tricks to take your own photos and have a hot drink and biscuits while we wait for the Midnight Sun to appear.

Although there is never a guarantee, we spot the Midnight Sun most of the time. Join us for a chase and experience the thrill!

Departure from outside Clarion Collection Hotel Aurora at 22:00 (10 pm) Return to Tromsø: 02:00 Duration: 4 hours The tour price includes: Transport, guide, hot drink, biscuits, tripod and high resolution photos from the trip Price per group (max. 7 people): NOK 7,770 Book at: www.fjordtourstromso.no E-mail: post@fjordtourstromso.no Phone: +47 957 21 007

55

THE ARCTIC SPA AND ADVENTURE BOAT Vulkana is the result of a wild idea and a dream of creating the ultimate base for adventures in the Tromsø region.

In cooperation with the renowned architect Sami Rintala, we have transformed an old fishing boat into a vessel unlike anything you have ever seen or experienced. Vulkana is a floating Arctic spa with an outdoor saltwater hot tub, a Finnish wood-fired sauna, a Turkish inspired steam bath/ hamam and a relaxation lounge with a fireplace. In the dining area, our chefs serve freshly made high quality meals based on local produce. We have comfortable sleeping cabins for guests who join us for overnight trips and private cruises.

Vulkana takes us into the fjords, around the islands and down the coast. We watch wildlife and nature and go hiking, biking and climbing. We eat, drink, talk, relax, meditate, swim and bathe. Vulkana is a place for activity and energy as well as an oasis for tranquillity and contemplation. Now, we look forward to welcoming you on board and to showing you our Arctic paradise!

Vulkana operates all year round and offers a great variety of trips: You can visit us for a spa experience at the pier or join us for a lunch or dinner cruise with spa in the fjords around Tromsø.

We also offer overnight trips and customised adventure trips for groups (of maximum 12 guests) wishing to spend more time exploring the region. We provide detailed planning and the highest possible level of personal service to make your Arctic adventure truly unique.

Read more about our trips, cruises, the boat, the crew and the kitchen at Vulkana.no. For details and offers, contact us at post@vulkana.no Welcome on board!

Arctic Summer Spa Join us for a complete Arctic spa experience: Heat up in the saltwater hot tub and the Finnish sauna, cool off by a plunge in the sea and relax in the Turkish steam bath/hamam. This is the ultimate treat for body and mind! Towel, slippers, snacks and tea is included. Other beverages for sale. Bring your own swimwear.

Price per person:............... NOK 695 Opening hours: ..................Sundays at 10 am, 1 pm, and 4 pm Season: .................................May-August Tickets/booking: ..............www.vulkana.no 56

OUTDOOR HOT TUB

ARCTIC PLUNGE

SAUNA WITH A VIEW

HIKING AND BIKING

EXCELLENT FOOD

HAMAM AND LOUNGE

57

TAKE A FERRY CRUISE IN T Tromsø’s most beautiful voyage starts just a 20-minute drive from the city centre. For just NOK 182, the Vengsøy ferry takes you on a summer cruise.

T

here used to be a special brochure promoting the legendary ferry ride from Belvika to Sandøya and back. But that is no longer the case. The county council now pays Torghatten Nord to sail between the beautiful islands on the outer coast every other day in addition to the daily route to Vengsøya. “ The ticket revenue now goes straight to the county,” says Able Seaman Kjell Hugo Jakobsen.

The new ferry MS “ Vengsøy ” sways easily in small swells from the open sea. Most of the passengers disembark on the island of Vengsøya. The next stop is Laukvika for trip, and the ferry trip will take another four hours.

The city ’s most beautiful voyage is no longer marketed. It ’s a hidden gem in the schematic timetable for Troms Fylkestrafikk, the division of the county council responsible for public transport.

FOOTSTEPS OF THE VIKINGS

Before international European routes, national highways and county roads became common terms, there was only one route – and it was by sea.

On the port side of the ferry, we pass the new pier at Musvær.

None of the six permanent resi-

58

dents are getting on or off. The old fishing village has been inhabited since the 18th century. The sights here are more interesting when you know a little about what you are looking at.

The same goes for Risøya. We pass the ferry landing in the early evening, and no one is waiting to get on or off here either. Apparently, the Vikings landed on the islands more than 1,000 years ago. Good, natural landings housed the Viking ships before the raids continued northeast in the spring. Sandvær, the second largest island in the archipelago of which Risøya is part, is mentioned in Heimskringla, the best known of the Old Norse kings’ sagas.

Risøya was the second largest egg and down site in the country after Vardøhus Fortress, which is about as far east as one can get in this country.

But the development of the modern society has left the beautiful islands behind as a backwater of society. However, with a little previous knowledge, it ’s easy to relax in one of the comfortable chairs in the ferry ’s lounge and let your mind wander back in time.

Among the other passengers going to Sandøya are the Rykkje family from Hardanger, an excep-

Sandøya

Risøya

Musvær Vengsøy Belvika

Tromsø

tionally beautiful part of Western Norway. The father of the family, Ole-Martin, says his grandparents are from Sandøya.

“My mother is also from Northern Norway. I have spent two weeks here every other year since the early 1970s,” he adds.

His son Kristian (18) is keen fisherman and is looking forward to hunting a giant halibut in the shallows around the island.

As we approach the quay at Mjølvik, we must agree that Reidun is right. It ’s easy to understand why someone could get homesick from here. Small islands

TROMSØ’S ARCHIPELAGO

JOY: The summer guests in Mjølvika wait at the quay to welcome the other ferry guests to the village.

encircle the old wooden pier and the little fish factory that was closed in the late 1970s.

A small welcoming committee of summer visitors is waiting on the quayside.

“We are related,” says Reidun, before taking the lift down to the car deck and soon after warmly greeting her relatives.

HIGH HEELS

The “ Vengsøy ” ferry pulls away from the quay to return to Belvika and repeat the voyage we have just made.

“If you not particularly interested in admiring the nature, the trip can become too long,” says Able Seaman Kjell Hugo Jakobsen.

He has worked on the ferry since 1999 and should know better than most.

“I remember one time a Swedish lady came on board nicely

dressed and wearing high heels. I looked at her and asked what she was doing on the ferry. It seemed like she expected to find a bar and music as if we were some sort of cruise ship. But I talked with her and told her about the voyage we were embarking on. When we returned to Belvika in the evening, she was extremely satisfied with the experience. In many ways, it ’s a shame this ferry route is now a bit hidden from people,” says Jakobsen. by: Thor Anders Angelsen, Marius Fiskum (photo)

59

Welcome to

Scandic Grand Tromsø Scandic Grand Tromsø, located in the heart of central Tromso, next to shopping outlets, restaurants and cafés.

Only 3 km from Tromsø airport and public transportations within walking distance.

FACILITY The Grand restaurant offers you a large breakfast buffet every day.

Our Gründer Café & Bar serves lunch and dinner in a casual atmosphere.

During the weekends it becomes a part of Tromso’s vibrant night life, and turns into popular Gründer by night.

Our 4 meeting rooms are large and bright, with natural daylight and free WiFi. The biggest room has a capacity for up to 150 participants.

Amedia Ressurs Harstad

”

THE STAFF WAS WELCOMING, THE BREAKFAST WAS AMAZING AND THE VIEW FROM OUR ROOM WAS INCREDIBLE! Livin4Vacati0n, Tripadvisor.com

BOOK: Phone: +47 77 75 37 77 • Fax: +47 77 75 37 78 • E-mail: grandtromso@scandichotels.com 60

WEB: www.scandichotels.com

LEGOLOFTET

Amedia Ressurs Harstad

and the old alike! g un yo e th r fo t es al treasure ch The Lego Loft is a re d fantasy & sci-fi an ga an m s, ok bo lection of comic , We have a huge se , Magic cards, Lego es am dg ar bo as l wel ial books in English as irts and many spec sh tol co , ts ki el mod Wars, Playmobil, plastic Harry Potter, Star , C D d an l ve ar M om collectors’ items fr e! rones etc. Welcom Th of e am G , gs in R Lord of the

FOR THAT EXTRA

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61

GIANTS OF THE SEA The sea outside Tromsø offers several locations where there is a high probability of observing these large and majestic marine mammals.

Some of the best locations for whale observations are Sommarøy (see page 82), located west of Tromsø City, and of the coast of the large island Senja (see page 84), southwest of Tromsø. Both these locations offer the opportunity to join guided tours with experienced crews.

The humpback whale and killer whale are the most common species found in shallow water close to the coast. There are also populations of smaller whales, several species of seal and a rich bird life.

THE HUMPBACK WHALE

The humpback whale, which reaches a length of between 15 and 18 metres, can weigh up to 50 tonnes. The female is a little bigger than the male. Humpback whales are easily distinguished from other whales by their 5 m long flippers and the hump on their backs.

The bumps found on the head are called tubercles. Each tubercle contains a single hair follicle, similar to a cat’s whisker. The humpback whale varies in colour from grey to black with white markings on their underside. The varying patterns on the tail flukes are sufficient to identify individuals. Humpbacks sing some of the most complex animal songs ever recorded. The sounds consist of a complex series of whistles and deep calls sung in a specific order, which may last for several minutes or sometimes as long as half an hour. Their songs are not inborn – they learn them from each other.

The whales feed on krill (small shrimp-like animals) and small fish and eat up to 1.5 tonnes of food a day. Their food is trapped to be swallowed by baleen plates, not teeth.

THE KILLER WHALE

The killer whale (Orcinus orca), also referred to as the orca, is a toothed whale of the dolphin family. These whales are found in all the world’s oceans. A typical killer whale has a black back, white chest and sides, and a white patch above and behind the eye. Killer whales typically range from 5 to 8 metres in length and can weigh up to six tonnes.

Some feed exclusively on fish, while others hunt marine mammals such as sea lions, seals and walruses. Sometimes a group of killer whales might even attack other whales. Orcas are apex predators, meaning that they lack any natural predators.

FAMILY GROUPS

Orcas (killer whales) live in family groups called pods, each containing up to 40 individual killer whales. A pod may contain up to four generations of orcas. Interestingly, most males never leave their mothers.

The average life span of a killer whale in the wild is 50 to 80 years.

The lifespan of killer whales in captivity is typically significantly shorter, usually less than 25 years. However, a few have reached their 40s.

Killer whales have their own culture, since their hunting techniques and vocalisations are passed down generations. Each group of whales has a unique dialect of calls. In general, their language.

by John A . Angelsen 62

VISIT THE ARCTIC AQUARIUM

Polaria has an Arctic aquarium, interesting knowledge-based exhibits, a panoramic cinema, a gift and souvenir shop and a cafeteria.

In our panoramic cinema, you can look forward to the Ivo Caprino film ”Svalbard Arctic Wilderness”. A little auk takes you on an airborne trip with you in a helicopter, along the west coast of Spitsbergen - the largest island in the group known as Svalbard.

We also show the film ”Northern Lights in Arctic Norway”. In this film, the famous Tromsø-photographer Ole C. Salomonsen show you Northern Lights as it can be in Tromsø in his beautiful work. After the film, visitors are taken to ”Priceless” where you can experience some of the elements of Arctic nature and the research that is performed in these areas.

PRICES & HOURS WINTER OPENING HOURS Sept. 1 - Dec. 31: 10.00 - 17.00 Jan. 1 – May 17: 10.00-18.00 TICKET PRICES (NOK) Adult: 130 / Children: 65 / Senior: 90 / Student: 70 / Family: 280 +47) 77 75 01 00 www.polaria.no

TRAINING AND FEEDING Training and feeding of the seals every day at 12:30 and 15:30 63

Amedia Ressurs Harstad

In the aquarium, the main attraction are the bearded seals and the harbour seals.

The bearded seal is an Arctic species, and they are very popular among children and adults alike, due to their quiet disposition and intelligent nature.

The aquarium also has interesting exhibits of the most common species of fish and other bottom species you can find in the Barents Sea.

BlĂĽst was established in 2002, and has become a natural stop for visitors to the Paris of the North.

The owners blow glass at the workshop virtually every day, and it might be possible to see the transformation from molten glass to the most beautiful objects. Be aware, it will be as hot as a sauna.

Production includes everything from drinking vessels of all kinds to vases and bowls for the more sculptural and unique items. All glass blowers participate in the formulation and design. Most likely, you will find something to your liking.

OPENING HOURS Monday - Friday 10-17 Saturday 10-16 facebook.com/nordensparistromso

Location: City map 64

Chasing the flawless skin …in the Arctic A vortex of Tromsø’s blooming life. Fusion of daily endurance of harsh arctic weather and ambitious sporty spirit of locals, gave rise to a special breed of people. A breed, fancying active, modern lifestyle at the supersonic speeds of XXI century. They have learned to make use the most recent technologies to make, say, both off-piste slalom mid pitch-black December, daily outdoor commute with the kids behind on a bike or skies both enjoyable, safe and comfortable. Living the heritage of arctic pioneers, who’s courageous faces were scarred by atrocious climate, novel homo norvegicus is not up to the same fate. Skin care stays central grooming routine for many here, and is warmly accepted and understood.

Ansikta Medica is a family-driven highly specialized beauty clinic in the heart of Tromsø, placed conveniently at Grønnegata 72. The founders, a doctor-couple Elena and Mikhail, both MD/PhDs, having a long-term carriers in academic medicine, saw a brilliant opportunity of coming back from a sabbatical stay at Harvard, Boston, to the lovely city of Tromsø to apply their skills and expertise to the field of esthetic dermatology.

Feeling virtually locals after soon twenty years in Norway, two doctors strive to brake the secret of eternally youthful skin for those living in Arctic. The palette of facials, laser treatments and (how could you guess?) injections heals well the dehydrated tired skin depleted by harsh weather, comfy energy-efficient habitats with dry recirculated air, and consuming liters of coffee, which most locals succumb to.

One will always receive an expert advice, on which skin care program will take best care of a particular issue.

Be it early wrinkles, deep lines or saggy cheeks, esthetic doctors come with the right treatment. Their product range is astonishing. German cosmetic brand Dr. med. Christine Schrammek Kosmetikk, with its 60 year-old tradition offers red carpet Green Peel facials. A medical-grade skin care products and salon facials designed by South African plastic surgery star Dr. Des Fernandes boosts skin vitality by loads of Vitamin A. American-made revolutionary line of products from Medicalia will address an extensive range of skin conditions requiring targeted “intensive care”. Locals tend to fancy the collection of glycolic acid-based cosmeceuticals from the Norwegian brand Elixir, which philosophy states that “No client is the same, and we take great pride in customizing a perfect combination of treatments”.

Elena Egorina, MD, PhD, co-founder and CEO of Ansikta Medica: “My secret to keep the skin hydrated and plumped during Arctic cold and windy winter is repetitive treatments with hyaluronic acid and vitamin-rich skinboosts from Juvederm, Teosyal or CytoCare. While in the wild on an arctic safari, apply a winter moisturizer from Environ or Elixir generously to the exposed areas.”

Mikhail Sovershaev, MD, PhD, co-founder of Ansikta Medica: “Thick long hair was a necessity for ancient Vikings. Not anymore due to modern high tech clothes. Active people of XXI century chose modern laser hair removal to forget daily shaving and irritated bumped skin. Use your spare time for something enjoyable instead: see the world, meet new people, taste the life.”

ANSIKTA MEDICA Medical beauty clinic | Grønnegt 72, Tromsø | +47 401 71 810 | ansikta.no | instagram.com/ansikta.medica | facebook.com/ansikta

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y ne ur Jo s O

Explorations of the first North Norwegian

th

er

e'

Tromsø The Wite Sea

Wessex

OTHERE’S JOURNEY In the late 9th century, a man named Ohthere (or Ottar in Norwegian) visited King Alfred the Great of Wessex. He told the king that he lived “north-most of all Norwegians”.

perspective – ranging from ancient Assyria to the author ’s own time. The work began with a brief geographical overview. However, this overview only covered the part of the world that Orosius had personal knowledge of; namely Europe south of the Alps.

Othere’s descriptions of the life in the northernmost part of the Viking ’s world, about different ethnic groups and travel routes, the aristocracy and trading places, make his account an invaluable contemporary source.

Ohthere’s account is one of our most important and most frequently cited sources from the Viking Age. Ohthere’s account is a contemporary account of the latter part of the 9th century AD. It has survived as an addition to an anonymous translation into an Anglo-Saxon, or Old English, version of a Latin historical book written early in the 5th century by Paulus Orosius called Historiarum Adversum Paganos Libri VII or Seven Books of History Against the Pagans.

His work was a historical overview – from a Christian

RECORDED BY SCHOLARS

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In conjunction with its translation into Old English, and possibly also as part of King Alfred’s own programme of education, the original work was supplemented by a description of Europe north of the Alps. It is in this context that we find Ohthere’s account.

It is believed that the account was recorded in writing by scholars at King Alfred’s court in connection with a journey Ohthere made at some stage during Alfred’s reign, in the period between 871 and 891 AD.

LENGTHY VOYAGE

En route to England, Ohthere visited two of Scandinavia’s

This article is written

by Inger Storli.

She is the head of the Department of Cultural Sciences at the Tromsø University museum.

Storli has a long list of publications on topics including the political conditions in Northern Norway from the 3rd to 10th century AD.

most important marketplaces, Skiringssal and Hedeby.

Skiringssal was located in what is now the Norwegian county of Vestfold, while Hedeby was located in Schleswig in what is now Germany, just south of the border with Denmark. Details in the account can indicate that this was not the first time Ohthere completed a journey of this distance.

He had also undertaken a lengthy voyage north and east, all the way to the White Sea, to explore lands unknown and also due to the walruses, “because these are very fine bone in their tusks – they took some such tusks to the king – and their skin is very suitable for ship’s ropes”.

Consequently, we can see for ourselves that the journey to the White Sea was undertaken before the journey to England precisely to obtain tusks that he could sell at markets, and which he also presented to King Alfred.

VIKING IN THE TRUE SENSE

No explanation is given in the text about Ohthere’s

motives for travelling to England or for visiting King Alfred. The trading places were clearly among his intended destinations, but we should not rule out the Original page from Othere’s possibility that he also plun- journey in the "Seven Books of dered when the opportunity History Against the Pagans". arose.

Admittedly his account contains no information about the Viking raids but, among the Vikings, dealings usually went hand in hand with plundering and robbery.

In the Viking ’s world, travels were of great importance for a man’s good reputation and were crucial for his political and social position. The travels were quite simply part of their refinement and created clever and wise men.

In that sense, Ohthere was a Viking in the true sense of the word.

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Rober t F. Scott

Helmer Hanssen

Fridtjo f Nanse n

Roald Amun dsen

POLAR HEROES The city of Tromsø has always been a hotspot for polar expeditions. Several of the most famous polar heroes were trained by local trappers.

Perhaps the best known polar hero is Roald Amundsen.

Amundsen led his famous expedition in the race to reach the South Pole in 1911. His rival was the British explorer Robert Falcon Scott.

Amundsen’s right-hand man was Helmer Hanssen from Tromsø. Hanssen was a navigator and a highly skilled musher.

Since only a short distance remained, Hanssen made it seem as if his dogs were tired so that Amundsen would become the first man to reach the South Pole.

THE TRAGEDY

Englishman Scott and his companions reached the South Pole a month later. They died on the way back from disap68

pointment, cold, exhaustion and scurvy. Hanssen was full of admiration for Scott’s achievement and thought that in terms of sheer willpower his expedition was far greater than the Norwegian expedition.

Scott and his crew pulled the heavy sledges themselves for great distances, while the Norwegians had learned from the Eskimos and used dogs to pull their sleds.

Describing Amundsen’s expedition, Hanssen wrote in his memoirs: “Amundsen’s brilliant planning, our comrades’ careful preparatory work and our dogs’ endurance had made the journey into a recreational trip.”

AMUNDSEN DIES

Like the other famous explorers, Amundsen learned seamanship from Tromsø’s many trappers. Most of his polar expeditions started in Tromsø, including what proved to be his final expedition - a rescue mission to save his Italian colleague, Umberto Nobile.

Nobile went missing in the far north in 1928. Amundsen went on a rescue mission using a seaplane. The plane

Roald Amundsen (left), Helmer Hanssen, Sverre Hassel and Oscar Wisting. Photo taken by the team’s fifth member Nils Bjaaland.

soil. A landing from a ship was added directly into the train that transported the Italian out of the country.

TRICKERY

The port of Tromsø in June 1928.

One of the last known photos of Amundsen and his seaplane "Latham". was last seen as it took off from the port of Tromsø in June 1928. No one has been able to find the wreck of Amundsen’s seaplane, but Nobile was found in good shape.

When he arrived in Norway, the grief of losing Amundsen was felt so badly that Nobile did not step onto Norwegian

The great explorer and Nobel Peace Prize winner Fritdjof Nansen also had Tromsø as a starting point. Nansen financed an expedition for Amundsen to conduct research in the Arctic.

Amundsen had other plans, and just after the ship had left the dock he told the crew that the destination was the South Pole. Nansen never forgave Amundsen for this, although the South Pole expedition was a success.

Ironically, Scott is the reason we can state with certainty that Amundsen’s expedition was the first to reach the South Pole. The finding of Scott’s tent, and thereby Scott’s diary and photographs of Amundsen’s tent, provides the proof that Amundsen had been to the South Pole.

by T hor A . Angelsen 69

uit.no/tmu

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Franklin D. Roosevelt pictured in 1900, the year before he visited Tromsø.

Tromsdalen (Troms Valley) with the mountain Tromsd

ROOSEVELT’S DRAMATIC HIKE A sitting American president has never visited Tromsø, but the ties between the White House and Tromsø abound nevertheless.

Americans with the title of President and Vice President have visited the city at nearly 70˚ North – both before and after serving in the famous house with the Oval Office.

Way back in 1901, the first man with links to the White House was in Tromsø – 32 years before becoming president. It was the legendary Franklin D. Roosevelt, the only man to have three periods as president owing to World War II. At age 19, he and his mother, Sara, were on a journey that took them to Norway’s North Cape. They were passengers on the German cruise ship Prinzessin Victoria Louise, which sailed along the Norwegian coast, giving the passengers great experiences of “Norwegian fjords”, mountains, towns and villages.

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They also experienced daily life in larger towns and smaller settlements. Roosevelt and his mother walked around among the locals without the locals having the slightest inkling that this 19-year-old would one day become one of the most powerful and famous men in the world.

Roosevelt arrived in Tromsø on 1 August 1901. One of the first things he noticed from the deck of Prinzessin Victoria Louise was the mighty mountain east of Tromsøya island – Tromsdalstind. Franklin D. Roosevelt was a sporty young man, and he decided there and then to climb to the top of the mountain.

If he had said that he wanted to climb to the top of the mountain, then that would be the case. Accompanied by classmate Theodore Douglas Robinson and two others who were on the same cruise, he made his way across the strait to Tromsdalen and walked up the valley before the ascent to the top of the mountain started.

Franklin D. Roosevelt visited Tromsø and the city’s famous mountain, Tromsdalstind, many years before he became the President of the United States.

The book Nordens Paradis by former editor Jonny Hansen was published in autumn 2017.

With the author’s permission, here is an excerpt from the book (translated to English).

alstind in the background.

E IN TROMSØ It proved to be a dramatic hiking trip, at least if we are to believe Sara Roosevelt. She claimed that her son came close to losing his life on Tromsdalstind. He fell so badly that it was a matter of life and death for young Franklin, she claimed.

One of those who was told the story of the dramatic mountain climb was the former Norwegian Foreign Affairs Minister, Halvdan Koht.

He was on an official visit to the United States in 1937, four years after Franklin D. Roosevelt became president. He was invited to the Roosevelt home in Hyde Park, New York. The topic of discussion was the state of international affairs. Adolf Hitler had long been in power in Germany, and the developments were ominous. Consequently, it was quite natural for the American President and Norwegian Foreign Affairs Minister to discuss the state of international affairs.

The present’s mother was also in attendance. When it was mentioned that Halvdan Koht had lived in Tromsø during his childhood, it was inevitable that both mother and son would raise their journey

of 1901 to the North Cape and the visit to Tromsø and Tromsdalstind. “Franklin fell down the mountain near the top and could have killed himself,” said Sara Roosevelt to Halvdan Koht, referring to the diary she had written at the time: Franklin and Teddy and 2 others climbed a high snow-covered hill and got back very late, much exhausted. A dangerous experiment, she wrote.

So, the question is where did Roosevelt fall so badly that his life was in danger? It was unlikely to have been the so-called “north face”.

Nor the route that goes up from the south. Neither of these are so dangerous that a life could be at risk. But perhaps Roosevelt and his hiking companions had chosen a different route to those that are now marked trails. In that case, he may have fallen and “been in mortal danger”.

No matter what: This dramatic mountain hike provides a permanent link between Tromsø and the 32nd President of the United States of America.

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AN ENGLISH SPEAKER’S GUIDE TO TROMSØ

THE SPERMING CLUB IN KARLSØY The place name once voted as the county’s funniest is Våtræva (wet arse), a large rock in Kvæfjord municipality near Harstad in South Troms. Another contender is Sædingsklubben in Karlsøy municipality. Named after an old dialect name for a breed of sea gull, the name of the hill literally means “the sperming club”.

Although Tromsø and the surrounding area are now popular tourist destinations virtually year-round, most place names and signs remain largely in Norwegian. Some common expressions get translated rather literally, too. This article is designed to provide English-speaking visitors with useful background information to add an extra dimension to the Tromsø experience.

ROAD FINANCED BY ALCOHOL SALES

A major road in Tromsø, Dramsveien (dram road), was financed by the sale of alcohol in the 19th century.

The term dram (a small measure of whisky) is also used in Scotland. Well before the establishment of the government-owned Vinmonopolet (Wine Monopoly), the Tromsø Samlag for Brændevinshandel (The Tromsø Cooperative for Liquor Sales) opened two sales outlets and three pubs in 1878.

THE STREETS OF TROMSØ

Storgata is the Norwegian version of the English high street. The section of Storgata in the city centre is a gågata (pedestrian street). Other street names in Tromsø include Tromsø’s oldest street, Sjøgata (sea street), Midnattsolvegen (Midnight Sun road), Nordlysveien (Northern Lights road), Idrettsveien (sports road), Havnegata (port street), Bankgata (bank street) and Turistvegen (tourist road), which leads to Fjellheisen (the Cable Car).

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THE NAMES AND MEANINGS OF TROMSØ’S MANY ISLANDS NOT REINDEER AND WATER ISLAND

...ØY = ISLAND

Tromsø is named after Tromsøya, the island on which the city centre is situated. The second part of the word means “island”, while the first part was probably derived from the word straumr meaning “strong stream”. Some believe that the island was originally called Lille Tromsøya (Little Tromsøya) because it’s beside a much larger island, now called Kvaløya. That island was previously called Store Tromsøya (Big Tromsøya) due to the characteristic mountain known as Tromma (the drum).

Two other nearby islands, Reinøya and Vannøya, have names that are often incorrectly translated into English. The former is often called “Reindeer island” but was originally named after another meaning of the word rein and actually means the “island with mountain ridges”. Many assume the rocky island Vannøya (also called Vanna) is named after a lake as vann means “water”, but the name is derived from varna meaning a “place giving protection”.

WEEKEND ISLAND?

Another nearby island Helgøya, no longer has a permanent population, but the picturesque wooden homes on the islands are popular holiday homes.

A direct translation of helg (weekend) would now be an appropriate name.

However, the name means den hellige øy (the holy island) from the Old Norse word helgi (holy). Helgøya has been a church site since the 13th century. The current church was erected in 1888 after being moved from Hamn i Senja.

Hamn (harbour) was an old trading post with a natural harbour and is now a popular tourist resort.

SOMMARØY = SUMMER ISLAND

A popular excursion from Tromsø is to the island of Sommarøy, which can be reached by bridge from Kvaløya. The name “Summer Island” originates to an historic Sami farm, part of which was only used during the summer months.

To this day, Sami reindeer husbandry involves winter pastures in the inland and summer grazing areas on the coast.

SEAL FJORD ON WHALE ISLAND

A highlight on Kvaløya is Ersfjord, a narrow fjord surrounded by high mountains rising directly from sea level. It was originally spelt Ertzfjord as ertz was an old name for the grey seal, which was a common sight near the island. Hence, there is a “seal fjord” on “whale island”.

KVAL = WHALE

Kvaløya, which is accessed by bridge from near Tromsø Airport, is commonly referred to as “Whale Island”. The name is appropriate given the large numbers of whales spotted off the coast of the island in recent years. Many local tour guides simply refer to it as Whale Island.

The island is 737 square kilometres, making it Norway’s fifth largest island.

The sixth largest island, Ringvassøya, is reached by tunnel from Kvaløya. The 10 km long lake Skogsfjordvatnet (forest fjord lake) is the largest lake on an island in the country. Literally translated, Ringvassøya means “Circle Lake Island”.

FUGL = BIRD

Further north is the island NordFugløya (North Bird Island). The island is protected as a nature reserve owing to the rich bird life. Birds nesting here include white-tailed eagle, puffin, the eider duck and the razorbill. People venturing out to the island on organised boat trips can also see otters and grey seals and in the autumn can pick the golden coloured cloudberry.

SKITTENELV = DIRTY RIVER

Other place names near Tromsø include Laksvatn (salmon lake), Skittenelv (dirty river), Grøtfjord (porridge fjord), Storsteinnes (large rock on a headland) and Skogsvika (forest bay).

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AN ENGLISH SPEAKER’S GUIDE TO TROMSØ

NORWEGIAN IS A DIALECT LANGUAGE

I'll write it behind my ear!

Don’t be surprised if Norwegians greet you by saying “Takk for sist” (Thank you for last time). They really mean “Nice to see you again”!

If your waiter says “Håper det smaker” (Hope it tastes) when serving your meal, they mean “I hope you enjoy your meal”!

By the way, a vacuum cleaner is a “støvsuger” (dust sucker), a fridge is a “kjøleskap” (cooling cupboard) and an electric kettle is a “vannkoker” (water boiler).

If a Norwegian says she will “write something behind her ear” (skriv noe bak øret), it’s a direct translation. She really means he will make a mental note or remember it.

If a Norwegian says she will “write something behind her ear” (skrive noe bak øret), it’s a direct translation. She really means he will make a mental note or remember it.

STENGT = CLOSED

Common signs in shop windows are åpen (open) and stengt (closed).

Opening hours are written using the 24-hour clock, usually stating weekdays followed by Saturday opening hours in brackets. Shops are generally closed on Sunday. An example of this is 08-22 (09-18), meaning the shop in question is open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. on weekdays and from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturdays. It’s worth noting that some shops and offices have different opening hours in summer and winter and reduced opening hours on the last day before a public holiday.

ROOF AVALANCHE

BLOOD ON YOUR TOOTH

Perhaps the most important sign of all for visitors to Tromsø to understand is Fare for takras (Risk of snow sliding from the roof). You can ignore this if you visit in summewr. However, if you are here in winter or spring, it’s not a good idea to walk near a slanted roof full of snow and ice as it may suddenly slide down in milder weather creating a “roof avalanche”. Pavements below such roofs should be cordoned off when there is a genuine risk, but this is quite rare in Tromsø. Although cases of people being killed by a “takras” are rare, people being covered by snow or damage to parked cars are far more common.

If If someone says you have “blood on your tooth” (blod på tannen), they really mean you are “inspired or driven to do something”. And if they tell you to have “ice in your stomach” (is i magen), they are just saying to bide your time or not to rush.

HIGH PARKING FINES It’s common to see parking signs stating “Maks 2 timer” (Maximum 2 hours). Obviously, the number of hours may change. As parking fines in Tromsø can be high, it’s inadvisable to take any chances.

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FARTS(HAHA!)DEMPERE = SPEED BUMPS Don’t try to stop a bus stating Ikke i rute (not in service) or use a cash dispenser that is i ustand (out of order). Many English-speaking tourists are highly amused by the street sign Farts dempere (speed bumps) and the automated sign stating Din fart (your speed). To avoid a hefty fine, it’s advisable to stick to the fartsgrense (speed limit).

THE NORWEGIAN WORD FOR SUIT IS DRESS You may think business people in Tromsø are casually dressed. It’s not uncommon to turn up for work wearing jeans and a casual shirt. However, people here save their finest clothes for holidays. Virtually everyone celebrates Christmas, New Year and perhaps even Easter wearing a suit or dress. Just to add to the confusion, the Norwegian word for suit is dress!

WHY DID YOU SAY ”BRA”?

If a Norwegian says “bra” to a female visitor, he is probably not asking to see her underwear. Instead, he simply means it’s “good”.

TO BE OR NOT TO BE IN THE BUTTER’S EYE If your guide does not speak English so well and says you are in “the middle of the butter’s eye”. Don’t worry, he/ she won’t throw butter at you. They are simply translating the common Norwegian expression (Å være midt i smørøyet) literally and really mean you’re in the “best possible spot”, e.g. to see the Midnight Sun.

If you enter someone’s house, it’s customary to remove your shoes and enter wearing socks.

WHAT’S UNDER YOUR LIP?

This Guide is written by Gavin Tanguay.

Gavin originates from New Zealand but has lived in Tromsø for many years. He runs a local company translating tourism-related texts (including this magazine) from Norwegian to English.

At first glance, you could be excused for thinking many Norwegian men (and some women) have a serious gum disease. It’s probably “snus”, a moist powder tobacco, which many put under their upper lip instead of smoking.

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