Tim warrington

life of a

Travel Writer WORDS BY LOUISE COOK PHOTOS BY TIM WARRINGTON

Tim Warrington, travel writer

The women’s market in Imphal, India

LIVING Hawke’s Bay editor, Louise Cook, talks to award-winning travel writer Tim Warrington, about his nomadic existence, the highs and lows of life on the road and ‘that llama incident’.

T

im Warrington, LIVING Hawke’s Bay magazine’s favourite travel writer, has recently returned from a trip to India, courtesy of Intrepid Travel. I caught up with him over coffee and he shared some of his wisdom and favourite stories.

You’ve been to many countries but which is your favourite?

“That’s like asking someone to pick a favourite child!” he laughs.

I’ll give you my top three: India, Sri Lanka and Japan – in no particular order, and for very different reasons. Sri Lanka is like India with training wheels. Japan is wild and crazy – maxes out the culture shock. India - well anyone who’s been will tell you there’s no place like it, but it’s definitely a love or hate destination.”

And which is it for you - love or hate?

Love. Most definitely – that’s why I keep going back. I’ve been a few times and each trip is different; it’s just so vast.

Recently, I was there covering a new Intrepid Travel tour

called ‘Tea and Tribes’ and we went right up to the far northeast – right by the Himalayas, Darjeeling, Sikkim.

“It was India like I’d never seen it before. Amazing.”

What’s your least favourite destination?

I don’t have one. There are places I don’t feel the need to go at the moment. The US isn’t on my radar right now. Neither is the UK. I grew up there so don’t have a burning desire to write about it.

Do you ever get lonely travelling on your own?

I don’t have time. People think my life is one long holiday while I’m on assignment. Yes I’m travelling. No I’m not on holiday…well…sometimes I am!

So, it’s not as glamorous as it sounds?

No, not really…okay, maybe – ask me the next time I’m at Raffles drinking Gin Slings. It’s a great job but like everything in life…it’s yin and yang. Some trips are tougher than others.

You’re English so what brought you to New Zealand and why Wairoa, Hawke’s Bay? When I was living in Sydney, most of my friends were from New Zealand. I was attracted by their laid-back attitudes and sense of fun. I’ve never met a Kiwi abroad I didn’t have an instant connection with, and I thought with so many good sorts coming out of the country, that’s a place I want to live. Hawke’s Bay was where my best friend lived. He always raved about the climate and the landscape, so when the opportunity arose to work for a Hawke’s Bay newspaper, I grabbed it.

and donates them to a local charity at the end of the trip – practical and generous - and more space for all the gifts you’ve bought!

What advice would you give to travellers?

How long have you got?

1. Don’t forget your passport. I’m not kidding … I see it all the time.

2. Travel with an open mind. People who complain that everything is better back home shouldn’t travel.

3. Be culturally sensitive and respectful of the places you visit.

4. Pack light. Roll your clothes; don’t fold. Quick-dry hiking gear is the best and take out half of what you think you need. A friend of mine takes clothes she no longer wants

When I started out in publishing I didn’t need to take photos, but things have changed and now you need to be a photographer as well as a writer.

What advice do you have for budding travel writers?

You won’t hit the bullseye with your first arrow so keep trying. Even experienced writers get knocked back time and again. Sometimes an editor will hack your story to pieces.

Occasionally a trip will fall through at the last minute. You need thick skin in this industry. Most importantly, just stick at it.

When you’re writing, take a moment in time not the whole trip. That’s what guidebooks are for. You might have 1,000 words; 2,000 if you’re lucky. You can’t cover everything.

Take advantage of tour groups. They offer good bang for your buck in terms of how much you can see in a short time.

The women’s market in Imphal, India

The Victoria Memorial in Kolkata

The flower market in Kolkata

A woman folding banana leaves in the women’s market

Buddhist monks in Sri Lanka Tim’s first taste of Indian street food, Thali

The Kangla Palace in Manipur, India

Kolkata at night

Invest in a great neck cushion for those long flights. And be open-minded.

I just spent three weeks in far northeast India with Intrepid Travel, and the trip notes said to bring a sense of humour and an open mind.

I thought that was great advice!

What’s the key to taking a great travel photo?

I would like to say it’s pure skill, but it’s not. So much of it is luck.

The picture of the two young monks sharing a bowl of water at Rumtek Monastery is one moment in time. Seconds later the bowl was cast to the floor and the two were play-fighting.

The best camera is one you have with you at the time. I have seen some awesome shots taken on smart phones.

What was your most memorable experience?

I was in India and the tour group had gone off to look around a temple. I wasn’t allowed in because I had a massive blister and couldn’t take my shoes off, so I hung around outside taking photos of a dilapidated palace and the family invited me in for a look around. That was pretty special.

Landing on the Franz Josef Glacier in a helicopter right after it snowed was amazing and sipping scotch at the skybar of a 747 and seeing the curve of the globe and the Andes 35,000 feet below was pretty memorable.

What have been your high points?

Coming overall runner-up, New Zealand Cathay Pacific Travel Writer of the Year last year. Scuba diving in the Scilly Isles. Seeing the Himalayas for the first time.

What are your future plans?

This year is already shaping up to be a big one.

I focused the first half on New Zealand, mainly the South Island (I still have to pinch myself that I live in such a beautiful country). Later

The flower market, Kolkata, India

Two young monks sharing a bowl of water in Rumtek Monastery, India

in the year I’ve got Italy, Switzerland, China, Mongolia, Russia, Norway, Sweden and Finland – different trips; different magazines and newspapers. I’m most excited about Russia as I’ve never been before.

What has been your most embarrassing moment?

A water skiing accident as a teenager made me somewhat cautious of water.

But on a trip to Vietnam, sitting on the poop deck of a Chinese junk sipping Pina Coladas, I decided it was the appropriate time to tackle my fear and go for a swim in the turquoise waters of Halong Bay. I handed my highball with cocktail umbrella to a nearby waiter and leapt in.

Leapt is a generous term to describe my plummet towards the ocean. I disappeared below the surface like a sack of potatoes.

What would, ordinarily, have been a slightly silly episode quickly turned ridiculous because I hit the water at such speed my clothes were ripped to shreds and were now surrounding me in tatters.

Naga woman, from Kigwema Village, India

My undies floated forlornly beside me. I still applaud the staff for their sensitivity in restoring my modesty as they plucked me from the ocean.

Now, tell me about the alpaca story.

Actually, it was llamas – one llama in particular!

I was on a weekend getaway to Byron Bay to write about food, wine and scotch. I had finally discovered whisky and felt all mature and clever, sipping like a grown-up. I grossly misjudged its potency and after several glasses decided to shimmy the farm stay’s fence and ride a llama.

Browsing shoes at the women’s market in Imphal

The Llamas were cute. A bit smelly, but they let me pat them. Except for the alpha llama. He was territorial and aggressive... and frisky!

I am not entirely sure what transpired during those 90 seconds but there were numerous body blows and kidney punches inflicted by some gnarly hoofs before I was rescued by the farmer and his broom-wielding wife.

Fortunately, my moleskin pants were heavy duty and resilient, and by the time I was rescued I was bitten and bruised but unsullied.

I imagine I will not be riding any alpacas either.

Children in traditional dress in Shillong, India

Sri Lankan dancers in traditional dress

For more information on Tim’s trip to India: intrepidtravel.com/nz/india/north-east-india-105162

Pack your bags and bring your foodie friends for a Winter weekend escape in Hawke’s Bay.Winter F.A.W.C! 2018 will dazzle your taste buds with 60+ events across four weekends in June.Savour the very best of Hawke’s Bay, prepared by our extraordinarily accomplished chefs,winemakers, foodies and other talented types, set in spectacular venues across the region.

Tickets on sale now from www.fawc.co.nz an afternoon with tom at church road winery, winter f.a.w.c! 2016