[SCENE] taste of the month <<<<<<<<<<<< BY RYAN M. PLACE Dominick’s has been an Ann Arbor institution for over 50 years. Not only is Dominick’s an outdoor eatery with an excellent patio in a great location, but it’s a three-level funhouse of cultural artifacts, ample seating and wonderful people—and it’s probably the closest thing to an authentic Italian café that I’ve seen in the United States. Located directly across from the sprawling, gothic U of M Law Quad and Cook Research Library, every summer Dominick’s outdoor patio fills with students and other patrons eager to partake in the restaurant’s famous sangria, pizza, pasta and more. In 1959, Dominick DeVarti moved to Ann Arbor to study engineering at U of M on the GI Bill and bought the current Dominick’s building before becoming part owner of Dominick’s Pizza with Tom Monaghan in 1960, which morphed into Domino’s Pizza. After his father died in 2001, Richard DeVarti bought his brother out and he has been the owner of Dominick’s for the last two years. Dominick’s is open from March to November each year. “Traditionally we’re open the first day after U of M’s spring break, and we close the day of the Wolverines’ last football game,” says Richard DeVarti, a former U of M student who loves Ann Arbor and the surrounding area. “Washtenaw County is a testament to diversity and tolerance. People are very accepting of each other here, and we encourage and respect that,” he says. Dominick’s is known for its colorful interior, and the interesting variety of ephemera on the walls gives the place a rare flavor. The décor is part Roman café and part college bar. On the second floor is an incredibly rare Italian movie poster for “Some Like it Hot,” and the cavernous multi-room basement features a fireplace, while the backyard is a massive beer garden with a fountain. Dominick’s is also known for its famous sangria—which happens to be my new favorite drink. Dominick’s Sangria comes in a mason jar with ice and two orange slices, and the recipe is a homemade secret. “I lived in Madrid, Spain in the early 70’s, and, when I returned to Ann Arbor, we started making the sangria here,” says Richard DeVarti. 10 i SPY APRIL 2011 PHOTO CREDIT: RYAN M. PLACE Sangria prices range from half pint ($4.50) to pint ($7.80), quart ($14.45) and half-gallon ($24.80). If sangria isn’t your thing, for $21 you can get a 50 ounce pitcher of Constant Buzz, a blended mixed drink consisting of strawberries, gin, rum, vodka, tequila, triple sec, pina colada and love. Dominick’s isn’t only famous for its drinks, but also for its pizza, pasta and large Italian sub with salami, provolone, shredded greens, onions and Italian dressing (it also comes in sandwich form). I recommend trying the pasta with Dominick’s homemade tomato sauce or the Butternut Squash Ravioli with Alfredo sauce, which comes with a cup of soup and small tossed salad. Dominick’s is a great meeting spot, a great place to hang out and chat, and a great place to drink and get some work done. Richard DeVarti’s lovely establishment offers something for everyone in the community. Dominick’s is a 21+ establishment all the time, unless accompanied by a parent and is located at 812 Monroe Street in Ann Arbor. Hours of operation are Monday—Saturday, 10 a.m.—10 p.m. www.mispymag.com