Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.29/abr. 2013

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dition E h s i l Eng 29 # e u s Is

CHANGING PLACES ISSN 2179-894X

The new bars, galleries and hotspots behind downtown’s cultural resurgence

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12/04/13 10:55

THE HISTORY OF THE THEATRO MVNICIPAL AND THE CITY OF SÃO PAULO ON YOUR BOOKSHELF ‘Theatro Mvnicipal de São Paulo - 100 anos Palco e Plateia da Sociedade Paulistana.’

A special edition with historic images, text by Márcia Camargos and an exclusive photo essay by Cristiano Mascaro.

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This month in São Paulo 10 April-9 May 2013

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Regulars 8

City beat

The word on the street.

SP Essentials

63

Inbox

66

Useful information for visitors, plus a handy city map.

The best of Time Out São Paulo online last month.

Shopping & Style Chaos theory

The bar-cum-thrift-store Caos opens a twin shop, for retro bargain finds.

Art 48 The Glass House, home of MASP’s architect, the late Lina Bo Bardi, opens its doors to the public.

Features Shooting past

10

Changing places

14

Film

Gay & Lesbian 56 Stand-up with Silvetty Montilla, one of SP’s favourite drag queens.

In a city like São Paulo, constant evolution comes with the territory. We look at some R OVE of the bright spots in the C TORY S changing urban landscape, and talk to some of the bright sparks behind them.

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Interesting craft beers are on the rise in Brazil. Beer enthusiast and label designer Randy Mosher reckons it’s as much about what’s on the bottle as what’s in it.

Bars & Cafés

Music & Nightlife

57

Sports & Fitness

60

The Best of Rio

61

We speak to Ziggy Marley, on finding his voice and his father’s legacy.

Felipe Gombossy/Press Image

Food & Drink

52

Nine months on from his dazzling opening ceremony for the London Olympic Games, we talk to Danny Boyle about his new film, Trance.

Love and mourning: – personal themes for a personal film. Hoje, by the SP director Tata Amaral, explores the effects of Brazil’s military dictatorship on a marriage.

Bottling it

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Hang solo Le French Bazar offers solo diners a comfy spot at the bar

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Step aside ceviche: it’s time to tuck into a lesser-known Peruvian treat – the sandwich – at La Sanguchería.

Football, football and more football, with a dose of diesel power from the São Paulo Indy 300.

Two major newcomers add gravitas to the Rio art scene.

lienio medeiros

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover image Part of the series ‘Mesas Calçada’, a collaboration between Yusuf Etiman and the art collective AVAF. Courtesy of Casa Triângulo gallery.

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Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

City at a crossroads Changes are afoot at SP’s iconic intersection

Mega museum Casa Daros in Rio

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City beat

Fabio Pazzini/press image

The big picture

On the up Rounding off last month’s outdoor dance festival, Visões Urbanas, Avoa! Núcleo Artístico performed ‘Micro Resistências #1’ in front of downtown’s historic Pátio do Colégio. It’s just one of an expanding calendar of cool cultural events being played out in the open air, for all to see. Look out for next month’s big one – the Virada Cultural – with 24 hours of music, film, performance and general revelry taking over the city centre on 18 and 19 May.

josé cordeiro/spturis

São Paulo insider Tips from the Time Out team I like to walk through the streets of Centro around 7am, before the hustle and bustle of the day begins. I soak up the area’s architecture, from the neoclassicism of the Theatro Municipal to the mix of styles in the Vale do Anhangabaú, taking in the splendour of the Santa Ifigênia viaduct, and the German façade of São Bento Monastery. The morning light accentuates the pink tones in the Edifício Martinelli (left), which was briefly, in 1934, the tallest building in Latin America. Do as I do, and end your morning stroll in the delightful Café Martinelli Midi. By Fabiana Caso. Café Martinelli Midi is at Rua Libero Badaró 508 (cafemartinellimidi.com.br). See Cafés.

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TIME OUT interview

Shooting past Filmmaker Tata Amaral talks to Marina Monzillo about love, mourning and Brazil’s military dictatorship, seen through the eyes of her new film, Hoje

B

razil’s military dictatorship (1964-1985) has been the theme for several Brazilian films, including 1997’s Four Days in September (‘O que É Isso Companheiro?’) and 2006’s The Year My Parents Went on Vacation (O Ano em que Meus Pais Saíram de Férias). Though those dark days play a role in São Paulo director Tata Amaral’s latest film, Hoje (meaning ‘today’ in English), the film, as its title suggests, mainly focuses on the present.

In the film, Vera (Denise Fraga) buys an apartment with money she has received from the government in compensation for the ‘disappearance’ of her husband, Luis. A militant

activist during the dictatorship, Luis (played by the Uruguyan César Troncoso), reappears – after a nearly 30-year absence.

Hoje is an adaptation of the book Prova Contrária by the São Paulo-based author Fernando Bonassi. This is the second of Bonassi’s novels that Amaral has made into a film, the first being Um Céu de Estrelas (A Starry Sky, 1997). And just as in her feature-length debut, the 53-year-old director shot the movie in a single location – in an apartment in downtown São Paulo.

Tata welcomed Time Out São Paulo to her production studio in Vila Madalena to talk about cinema, politics and her relationship with São Paulo, the city in which she was born, and where she currently lives and works.

Is Hoje a love story?

Yes, but it’s also about mourning and the possibility of being reunited with someone you loved very much. The film is very personal for me, because I lost my partner, my daughter’s father, when I was 19. It had nothing to do with politics, but it would be nice to be able to talk about the things that were left unsaid. I carry that with me to this day.

Despite discussing the dictatorship, the film deals with the present. Did you mean to make that clear with the title ‘Hoje’ (‘today’)?

Exactly. The thrust of the film is that our past persists, no matter how much we may want to sweep it under the carpet. Brazil, for example, did not deal with torturers in the way Chile and Argentina did.

We granted people amnesty. And in some ways, we

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TIME OUT interview

continue to practice and accept torture in our society – in Argentina today, you don’t find hundreds of people being killed in the poorest areas. Hoje is different to other films in that it addresses this subject, not as a flashback, but by having the past shed light on what’s happening today.

This isn’t a typical role for Denise Fraga. Why did you think of her when casting Vera?

It was intuition. I had a stack of photographs of possible actresses and her face kept staring back at me. She’s a great comedic actress; she has very good timing and is also brave, dedicated and generous. She made Vera into a more loving person than I could have imagined.

Which scene most shows this loving side?

The scene in which Luis asks: ‘If I reappeared, what would you do? You’d have to return the apartment.

And you’ve never had your own home. Now what?’

She doesn’t say anything, but you see everything.

What’s the most challenging part of shooting an entire film in one apartment?

It’s a challenge to make the space interesting all the time, and to let the viewer discover that environment. As such, the apartment ends up becoming a character in itself. We’ve had a photo of the 1950s Edifício Louvre, in downtown São Paulo, since the beginning of the Hoje project. When we finally got the money to make the film, and after much searching, we decided to look at the Louvre and this huge apartment was available.

We took it on despite the high rent, because the size gave us the space we needed for production.

‘A developing country can’t move forward without first identifying, and analysing what has happened’ Do you think the fact that the film’s release coincides with media coverage of the Truth Commission [which investigates human rights violations during the dictatorship], will help the film?

I hope so. The film addresses the role the Truth Commission is playing in terms of bringing events to light. A developing country can’t move forward without first highlighting, identifying, and analysing what has happened. Now we’re seeing police officers taking poor people into alleys and shooting them. It’s the same thing that was happening forty years ago.

Do you have memories of the dictatorship?

I was four when the coup took place. I remember the parades on Avenida Nove de Julho, and later, I heard stories that such-and-such had had his nails

divulgação

Have you been in contact with people whose relatives disappeared during the dictatorship?

I have. I ended up doing another film about it during the research process. It’s a mini-series, Trago Comigo (which loosely translates as ‘I bring it with me’), which was broadcast on TV

Cultura. I’m going to turn into a feature film. It’s a mix of fiction and reality, and several relatives of missing people were interviewed for it. Their state of mind seemed frozen, with no closure for their loss. There was one father who buried a suit. He was dying, and said he needed to mourn his son. And there are practical issues: a woman can’t remarry because she’s not officially a widow; minors can’t travel because they don’t have full parental authorisation, or a death certificate for the missing parent; you can’t sell a car or an apartment you share with the person, because you need their signature.

torn off in jail – that sort of thing. My cousin had a girlfriend whose family had to leave the country.

Were you part of a leftist organisation?

I was, at another time, in the late-1970s, during the student movement. The years up until 1974 were terrible years, when everyone died or disappeared.

I got involved in 1976, when I was in high school.

I participated in large rallies organised by the student movement, when we took over the city.

What’s your involvement in politics today?

None. I vote PT (the Workers’ Party) because they are redistributing income and we’re finally leaving the Truman era. It’s only now that there’s a change in the Marshall Plan, which allowed the USA to reorganise the post-war world, making Latin American economies more dependent. Latin American governments are systematically disparaged for this, including Chávez (the late Venezuelan president).

What was it like making films in the early 1990s, when Brazilian production was virtually non-existent?

I was a movie-lover, and chose to go to film school.

For my family, it was like saying I was going to become a Martian – it wasn’t a profession. At the time, I had a daughter and I was a widow. It was a challenge. I’ve had a lot of financial difficulties.

I worked in advertising, and was even a wardrobe assistant. My finances were all over the place and I never knew what would happen from one month to the next. The only things I own today are a refrigerator and a computer; I haven’t accumulated many material goods. My assets are my films.

After all these years of work, would you say that you’ve developed your own style?

I focus on characters, not on action, despite loving action films. I think all of my films have elements of suspense and eroticism.

What do you think of Brazilian cinematography today?

We are creating very powerful cinematography and there is investment, which is really important.

For years, I’ve seen filmmakers in Europe making a living from independent television projects.

ding musa/press image

São Paulo is often described as one of the ugliest cities in the world. As a filmmaker working here, what do you think about that?

São Paulo doesn’t hold on to its past, and that’s why it’s turned ugly. Neighbourhoods like Pinheiros and Vila Madalena, with their art-deco houses, are being destroyed. These properties should be protected. Even though you can see beautiful architecture downtown, for example, there’s no planning. My family has been in São Paulo since 1640.

I fight for São Paulo, I founded the group Moradores de Pinheiros contra a Verticalização do Bairro (Pinheiros Residents against the Verticalisation of the Neighbourhood). As a filmmaker, it’s possible to turn chaos into poetry.

Focused filmmaker Tata Amaral (left), on set with César Troncoso and Denise Fraga

Hoje is released on 19 April.

PORTUGUESE

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LIENIO MEDEIROS

Changing

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RISE AND SHINE The cult bar Riviera, coming back to life in the shadow of the TV Bandeirantes antenna

Going against the grain of the city’s tear-’em-downand-start-again approach to urban planning, a host of sparky new theatres, art galleries, bars and clubs are taking root in old buildings in the regenerating Centro. Claire Rigby and Evelin Fomin report

I

n contrast to the unthinking pride and tribalism of dwellers of some of the world’s other major cities, there’s a tendency in São Paulo for its inhabitants to err on the critical side, far from focusing on their city’s better points. Paulistanos are often ruefully aware of SP's shortcomings – bumper-to-bumper traffic and summer flooding, for instance; a lack of urban planning, and a social divide that causes seismic ripples of related problems.

And yet it’s their home and they love it – with a thoughtful, tender, exasperated kind of love.

But pushing the city’s self image in interesting new directions, a clutch of streetbased movements and pressure groups, inventive galleries and bars, and sparky little independent cultural centres has been sprouting in São Paulo in recent years. Both making change and hinting at changes to come, they’re places like the well-established Matilha Cultural centre, and Espaço Walden on Praça da República. Like Trackers audiovideo school and party hotspot, and the art gallery Estúdio Lâmina, both close to Vale de Anhangabaú. What they all have in common, aside from sharing an energetic, DIY outlook and a sense that the city could change, is their location in SP’s run-down Centro – the focal point of some of the most exciting aspects of this new wave of urban culture.

New; but not unprecedented. Deep in Luz, one of Centro’s most historic neighbourhoods, pioneers like theatre company Cia. Pessoal do Faroeste were already blazing a trail there in 1999. In the pages that follow, we speak to its director, Paulo Faria, on theatre and the evolution of the area, which suffers from some of the city’s worst levels of inner-city deprivation – and of his hopes for what might come next in Luz. There’s something in the air and in the zeitgeist – a sense that the city needs to change its ways in terms of urban planning and more urgently, in its urban usage – and it’s bubbling up all over. A major article in the New York Times’s T magazine last month featured an insightful piece on some of the changes taking place in the city; and leafing through the final proofs of this issue of the magazine as we wound up ready to go to press this month, we spotted references to the city’s problems, and some of the possible solutions, scattered in the most interesting places. They were in the

words of the film director Tata Amaral, in our feature interview (see previous page); and in the concepts behind a new set of artworks by the AVAF art collective – one of which graces our cover, in an image that remixes the design of São Paulo’s unmistakeable black-and-white paving tiles. In the notes accompanying the exhibition (see page 49), the curator writes, ‘The exhibition by the international collective AVAF sparks a debate inspired by São Paulo's growing and brutal real estate development.

The show questions the city’s current policies of verticalisation. These policies have been put in place without the least care for the neighbourhoods’ infrastructure: 30-storey buildings are erected in areas without public transport nearby, without a thought for the effects on local traffic, without the creation of green areas, etc., and the city explodes.’

New uses for much-loved old buildings are bucking that SP craze for tearing down the old to replace it with new – an approach that has led to some of the worst aspects of the city’s blocky, grey-and-white cityscape. In the heart of downtown, there’s Pivô, a new art space inside the Copan building. And facing onto the Vale de Anhangabaú, bar Balsa, set to open in June/July, has a huge terrace with the benefit of one of the city’s finest views: of the elegant Martinelli building, and the Empire State Building-esque ‘Banespão’. Balsa itself is located on the top floor and roof of an otherwise unremarkable old building that houses a slowly winding-down CD-distribution business; and there are hopes amongst some of those who’ve attended the nascent bar’s occasional private gatherings, that there might be space there, eventually, for galleries and other cultural hotspots – part of a number of interesting initiatives currently being discussed around the Anhangabaú area, which have kicked off with the new Praça das Artes centre for music and dance.

Like Balsa, also still in embryonic form is the resurrected version of the old-time bar Riviera, under development in a fine Modernist bulding on the iconic corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua da Consolação. It’s the brainchild of the young nightlife kingpin Facundo Guerra, in partnership with the city’s top chef, Alex Atala. We speak to Guerra, in a revealing interview over the following pages, about the bar’s pivotal role in the city’s cultural history, and mixing the old and the new to create compelling new venues, rich in history and back story. Claire Rigby

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Wild west theatrics

lienio medeiros

Once the heart of the city's film industry, Rua do Triunfo in run-down Luz is the frontline for the Cia. Pessoal do Faroeste theatre group, says Evelin Fomin, and an integral part of their performances, inspired by the area's rich history

lienio medeiros

Frontier land The Cia. Pessoal do Faroeste occupied three different downtown locations before staking their flag in the current headquarters, on Rua do Triunfo

Cultural connection Downtown's Wild West

IN a city SO full of contradictions, it’s unsurprising to find one of the most striking areas of São Paulo also one of its most run-down.

During the day, that area comes close to embodying its name, Luz (‘light’) , but at night, a darker world comes to the fore. Luz has been a meeting point for the city’s crack addicts since the 1990s, earning it the moniker ‘cracolândia’ – crackland. Several attempts have been made to revitalise the area, including the remodelling of the glorious Pinacoteca art museum in the 1990s, as well as the Centro Júlio Prestes (formerly the Estação Júlio Prestes), home to the stunning railway-station-turned-concert-hall Sala São Paulo, which reopened in 1999.

But those who assume the 1990s to have been the beginning of the area’s decline are mistaken.

Luz’s Rua do Triunfo used to be known as the ‘Boca do Lixo’ – loosely translated as ‘trash alley’. The red-light zone was at heart of the city's film industry in the 1950s, when directors rubbed shoulders with an underbelly of criminals, prostitutes and other interesting types. And it’s precisely where the Cia. Pessoal do Faroeste theatre company has been based for the past fifteen years, recreating Luz’s history on stage.

‘We call ourselves “The Western People’s Theatre Co.” because this is a kind of Wild West,’

explains Paulo Faria, the company’s director. ‘It’s the epitomy of the genre – a place where there are no laws, and where the occupation of the urban space is completely disorderly. Thinking back to the way we got here, there couldn’t be a better metaphor. And at the same time, the fact of our being here at all is important in drawing attention to the area.’ Faria hastens to clarify that though the neighbourhood undoubtedly has a darker side, the theatre company’s role there is far from being a charitable one, but is rather ‘an amazing story of living the history of cinema’.

The particular slice of Centro’s history on which the group focuses is rooted in the immediate environs of Rua do Triunfo. At the same time, as the theatre critic Sebastião Milaré stated at a series of research events run by Pessoal do Faroeste in 2011,

On weekdays, the streets around Estação da Luz are busy with commuters coming and going. At weekends especially (but even during the week), keep your wits about you in this very run-down area, carrying only minimal cash and valuables.

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‘Boca do Lixo is just a tiny part of the area – but a tiny piece that was so important that it affected everything in its vicinity.’ As an integral participant in the cultural movements that inhabited the area in the 1970s, Milaré says that in Boca do Lixo, ‘there was a willingness, even amongst filmmakers, to dive head first into experimentalism’. Experimentalism, it’s fair to say, is the order of the day at the Cia. Pessoal do Faroeste.

The theatre group’s productions to date have been reflections on two remarkable periods, both of which demonstrate the powerful role art can play in processes of urban change. In the 1940s, Rua do Triunfo was a stronghold for film distributors of the likes of Warner, Paramount and Universal. To help keep distribution costs down, they needed to be close to railway stations, so they set up around Rua do Triunfo and Rua General Osório, in the vicinity of Luz and Sorocabana railway stations (the latter is now Estação Pinacoteca, a secondary space belonging to the Pinacoteca art museum).

Boosting commerce in the region more generally, their presence also served as a magnet for local film studios and production companies, which eventually followed the distributors to Luz. Of all the films released between 1960 and 1980 in Brazil, 80 per cent were produced in the Boca do Lixo. And of all the genres that emerged, softcore porn (‘pornochanchada’) was for some one of the area’s high points – and, for others, the last nail in its coffin.

Some body Paulo Faria, actor, playwright and the director of the Cia. Pessoal do Faroeste theatre group

NOw playing …

Rua do Triunfo 305, Luz (3362 8883/ pessoaldofaroeste.com.br). In Portuguese.

lenise pinheiro/press image

Fast-forward to the 2000s, and we see a similar scenario not far away, at Praça Roosevelt, which since the arrival of the Os Satyros theatre company in 2005, has become a hub for the city’s alt. theatre scene, flanked by a clutch of thespian-packed bars, restaurants and, to this day, brothels. ‘We want to involve local residents in the urban guerilla effort in Luz,’ says Faria, of the Pessoal do Faroeste’s ambitions. ‘In some ways, it’s like what happened at Praça Roosevelt, where Os Satyros were fundamental in defining the area’s identity.’

The Cia. Pessoal do Faroeste’s productions start to take shape early on in the company’s research process. The 2011 play Cine Camaleão: Boca do Lixo, starring the Rio actress Mel Lisboa, was nominated for Shell Awards in three categories. The play shed comical light on the Boca do Lixo of the 1970s pornochanchada era. And in May, the company goes even further back in time with the play Homem Não Entra which, set in 1953, re-interprets the then mayor Jânio Quadros’s decree to expel the prostitutes from Bom Retiro, which results in them all relocating to … Rua do Triunfo. Made in the style of a Western movie – ‘the first Brazilian Western to have been written for the theatre’ Faria assures us – the play’s mission is to compare past episodes of social ‘cleansing’ to the more recent one, in 2011, when crack users were swept out of the area in an effort to ‘clean up’ downtown São Paulo.

So, is the idea to foment a cultural cluster in the area through theatre? ‘Well, some people assume we’re out to attract other theatre groups to the area,’ says Faria. ‘But they’re wrong: what we want is for the film-makers to come back. Because that's this neighbourhood’s true vocation.’

lienio medeiros

‘We want the film-makers to come back to Luz – that's the neighbourhood's true vocation’

• Borboleta azul A delicate, poetic story dealing with the relationship between a mother and daughter. 9.30pm Fri, 55 min, Ages 16 and over. Until 26 April.

• meio dia do fim A discussion about finance is the starting point for this portrait of a landowning couple, celebrating their 30th wedding anniversary. 9.30pm Sat. 60 mins. Ages 16 and over. Until 27 April.

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riviera resurrected

Cult corner The double-height glass-brick wall of bar Riviera, soon to be given a new lease of life

If there’s one thing São Paulo doesn’t have, it’s a shortage of new bar and restaurant openings. Every week brings a flurry of press releases on the latest contenders; but the really interesting ones are few and far between. They’re the ones that get people buzzing, building up a sense of anticipation until they become the most coveted place to be in town before they’ve even opened.

With an innate ability to generate that sort of excitement – and to create the kind of buzz that lasts long after the opening party is over – the young nightlife entrepreneur Facundo Guerra is the owner or part-owner of a string of well-loved bars and clubs in São Paulo. Guerra’s latest project is the resurrection of the bar Riviera, a onetime veteran of the SP bar scene, with none other than Alex Atala on board as Guerra’s business partner – the superstar chef already owns the restaurants Dalva e Dito and D.O.M., the latter currently ranked as the world’s 4th best restaurant.

Riviera taps into a very current appetite for uncovering the city’s past: along with the art venue Pivô, which opened in a wing of Oscar Niemeyer’s Copan building in 2012, it’s one of a handful of interesting ventures that mix old and new, excavating scraps of the city’s history from the incessant destruction/construction that has turned SP into a relentlessly concrete jungle. Because in contrast with other cities, where the past is written all over the building’s façades, in São Paulo you have to dig a little deeper to find the interesting bits.

Set on one of São Paulo’s most iconic corners, Avenida Paulista and Rua da Consolação, Riviera first opened in 1949, catering to an elite crowd from the nearby neighbourhoods of Pacaembu and Higienópolis. But the bar’s chic origins soon gave way to life as a more run-of-the-mill, albeit much-loved corner bar, as changing fortunes in the surrounding area conspired to lower the tone.

An early-1970s scheme by the then-mayor, Paulo Maluf, to channel Paulista’s traffic into a tunnel under the avenue succeeded only in taking a fraction of the road underground, stranding Riviera behind a wall of traffic and cutting it off from the leafy square across the road. After a run of more than half a century, remembered with great affection by the bar’s many patrons, Riviera slid into a decline and finally closed in 2006.

Directly opposite, on the other side of Rua da Consolação, the art-house cinema Belas Artes also shut down in 2011, and despite continuing hopes that it might yet be possible to reopen the cinema, for now, it’s just a boarded-up façade. All in all, it’s not an obviously auspicious setting for a new bar.

And yet news of Riviera’s imminent revival never fails to raise curious eyebrows on paulistano faces, followed by a knowing ‘Aha,’ more often than not, when Guerra is revealed as the man behind the venture. The nightlife entrepreneur is well respected in São Paulo for being the first to open a club down on gritty Rua Augusta, better known at that time for its sleazy sex clubs than for the

all-night rock’n’roll fun that goes on down there these days. The opening of Guerra’s club, Vegas, in 2006, was instrumental in triggering a rapid revitalisation of so-called ‘Baixo Augusta’ – the area around the end of Rua Augusta closest to Centro, just a hop, skip and a jump from Riviera. A similarly rapid process of gentrification led to the closing of Vegas last year, a victim of soaring rents and a wave of property investment that has seen a handful of new residential blocks rise – with more in the pipeline – on lots that once housed carparks and strip clubs.

The bars Volt and Z Carniceria (see Bar listings) are two of Guerra’s other business concerns nearby, as are the predominantly gay club Yacht, in Bixiga (see Gay listings), the downtown nightclub Lions, and Cine Joia (see Music & Nightlife listings), a music venue Guerra opened in 2011 in the traditionally Japanese neighbourhood of Liberdade. Cine Joia’s transformation from an Art Deco 1950s cinema to one of the best-programmed concert venues in town is trademark Guerra style: the half Brazilian, half-Argentinian entrepreneur has a zeitgeisty talent for blending the new with well-curated aspects of the past – he decorated Volt bar with discarded neon signs from Baixo Augusta sex clubs.

‘It’s never my intention, when I start a new business, to try and revitalise the area,’ he says when we meet one afternoon in March at a very dusty Riviera-in-progress – the interior is being totally replanned and reconstructed. ‘It would be arrogant of me to pretend that I’m doing what I do for the good of the city. I do it for my own financial well-being; and if the city benefits in some way from that, that’s great.’

The city often does benefit, and in the case of Riviera, beyond livening up the currently drab, famous intersection, there are even hopes that the existence of the new Riviera might aid the campaign for a reopened Belas Artes cinema across

Waldemir Filltei/press image

lienio medeiros

The nightlife entrepreneur Facundo Guerra kick-started the 2000s revitalisation of São Paulo's most down-and-dirty strip, Baixo Augusta. He talks to Claire Rigby about reopening the cult bar, Riviera, and his passion for the city, past and present

Man about town Club owner Facundo Guerra

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claire rigby

lienio medeiros

Modern gloss Riviera is inside one of the city’s first Modernist constructions, the 1941 Anchieta building

On the up Riviera – a work in progress

the road. The two are inextricably interlinked in the paulistano collective consciousness, and at the time of the closing-down of Belas Artes, when thousands of signatures were collected on petitions to keep it open, there was much talk of the old days, and of movie sessions followed by drinks over the road at Riviera.

‘Riviera become popular with the film crowd in the 1970s,’ says Guerra. ‘The thing to do was to take in a movie at Belas Artes, then head over to Riviera for a beer.’ The bar was frequented by an artsy set that included filmmakers as well as MPB musicians of the likes of Chico Buarque and Elis Regina in the 1960s; and an everyday crowd of regulars, passersby and students from the nearby faculties of USP, PUC and Mackenzie universities.

‘Throughout those years, it was always a focal point for the city’s intelligentsia,’ says Guerra.

During the military dictatorship that began in 1964, radicals would gather at Riviera to plot. ‘The place was a meeting point for the paulistano resistance,’ says Guerra, whose father was a communist activist during the period. ‘We’re going to create a homage to the old Riviera.’ The bar's famous red counter is referenced in its new incarnation, and

He talks on about the history of the bar, its former owners, staff and the characters who frequented it – the people and the stories behind the bar. ‘You have to find places you have a strong relationship with, an affinity for,’ he says. ‘For me that’s part of a new business strategy. You’ve got to be thinking about a narrative when you’re starting a new bar – you need to create a story for it. No matter how good the drinks are, if it doesn’t connect with people, then people are just not going to be able to relate to it.’ He takes a swipe at the rash of looky-likey bars that throng Vila Madalena – the ‘boteco carioca’ style of bars, as he calls them, referring to the classic Rio-style street-corner bar.

‘They’re a plague here in São Paulo. Why is it that in Vila Madalena, none of the bars have any personality? Because they’re all variations on the boteco carioca or “football player” themes.’

Why make Riviera a jazz bar? ‘I was asked if I wanted to create a new nightclub,’ says Guerra, ‘but I said no: I’ve done enough of that, and São Paulo doesn’t need another club. But there are hardly any jazz clubs in São Paulo – there’s Bourbon, there’s Teta – and I do think there’s space for a really good, small jazz club, with cheap food, at around R$40.’ Atala is creating a menu that riffs on some of the dishes that were served at the old Riviera, and the plan is to open every day for lunch, running on till 2am, with live music upstairs on Thursdays, Friday and Saturday nights.

As we step outside the bar, to where traffic thunders past on Consolação, Guerra surveys the corner that road makes with the mighty Avenida Paulista. ‘São Paulo is a strange city,’ he says. ‘The only postcard image we have to offer is Paulista – a street that was once full of theatres, cinemas, bars and restaurants, and is now lined with banks! But it’s not an ugly city,’ he goes on. ‘It has layers upon layers – an accumulation of things that I think make it lovely, and a kind of misshapen quality that’s uniquely ours. But I think to really like São Paulo, you have to get past your preconceptions of beauty – past the canon of what’s supposedly beautiful. You have to have been around and seen a few things, and to have a practiced eye.’

Guerra is installing a wall of books above the bar: ‘Marxist books – the kinds of books you could never have had here openly in the 1960s.’

As we pick our way over the dusty concrete floor of what will soon be the main bar, stepping over bags of sand and buckets of cement, Guerra points out the spot at the back reserved for a dumb waiter, to bring Atala’s food down to the bar from the kitchen above. Upstairs, tables and chairs face a small stage: ‘Mainly for jazz,’ says Guerra, ‘but also for a guitar and a voice, or a drumkit – maybe even for somebody to do a reading.’

What kind of public do they think will come, once it opens? ‘I don’t know. It’s really hard to predict who a place will end up appealing to –

alexandre tokitaka/pulsar imagens

‘This isn’t about nostalgia – it’s about respecting what was most important about the original Riviera'

Curtain call Belas Artes cinema closed in 2011

you can plan for a specific kind of public, but it always ends up changing. You can try and please other people, but that way, you usually end up pleasing no one. You have to make a place that you yourself would love, and hope other people share your taste. So far, it’s worked – I’ve found a lot of people like the same kind of things I do. For Riviera, Atala and I are making the kind of bar we both know we’ll like.’

That ability to hit the nail on the head culturally is one of the secrets of his success; another is his genuine passion for São Paulo’s past and, importantly, its present. ‘We’re not trying to revive Riviera, to recreate something that’s over, from another era. This isn’t about nostalgia – it’s not about creating a vintage bar. It’s about being inspired by the past, respecting what was most important about the original Riviera, and projecting aspects of that past into the future.’

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés

Rogério Voltan/press image

Eating Out 24 Bars & Cafés 38

Down to earth The playful dishes at Miya include this dessert, with soil-like chocolate crumbs and flowers

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Edward C. Bronson/press image

Bottling it

What’s on the outside Randy Mosher, craft beer label designer

Colorado Demoiselle Named for one of the Brazilian inventor Santos Dumont’s first planes, this porter is processed through a coffee filter. The Santos Dumonts were an important coffee-growing family.

Cultish craft suds are on the rise in Brazil, with vibrant labels as interesting as the beers they represent. Catherine Balston talks to label designer Randy Mosher

has been designing beer labels for about 23 years, most recently for one of Brazil’s craft beer pioneers – Colorado, brewed in São Paulo state.

Mosher, who has gone on to design labels for Brazilian brewers Amazon Beer, Bauhaus, Sante Fé, and a São Paulo startup brewery called Steck, talks about the power of the label.

More than 70 Brazilian breweries showcasing hundreds of craft beers had the southern city of Blumenau hopping at the Brazilian Beer Festival last month. It’s a sign of the times, as Brazil’s young but burgeoning craft beer scene gathers pace, providing a welcome antidote to the bland beers of the country’s industrial giants.

Thankfully, the clichéd image of middle-aged, bellied beer-lovers is making way for a younger generation of passionate brewers, pouring their personalities into pale ales, porters, lagers and stouts, and adding some cool credentials to craft beer.

But it’s as much about what’s on the bottle as in the bottle, as US designer Randy Mosher tells us. Mosher, a master of the art,

Interest in craft beer is on the rise. What does the term mean?

They’re very individualistic products, and they’re generally created by passionate people who want to make something artistic. They’re not looking at market segments and having focus groups and saying ‘what do people want?’ You know, that whole process of packaged goods development is not craft beer.

What can you tell us about the craft beer scene in Brazil?

The initial wave of craft beer was maybe about 15, 16 years ago, mostly in the South of Brazil and inspired by Germany. Now, we’ve got a new wave of young brewers who are full of energy and ideas. It’s like a religion.

Colorado vixnu The tongue-in-cheek seasonal beer Vixnu – an imperial IPA – was named after after Vishnu, one of the Hindu triad of deities, completed by Shiva and (arch Colorado brewing rival) Brahma.

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Food & Drink

Top brews Besides his favourite Colorado tipples, Randy Mosher rounds up three top Brazilian craft beers

Wäls

‘This brewery in Belo Horizonte is making some exceptionally good products. They make a beer that started as a home brew called “Petroleum” that’s an imperial stout, so it’s dark and rich and thick and syrupy.’

Where to drink it: Empório Alto dos Pinheiros, Rua Vupabussu 305, Pinheiros (3031 4328/ altodospinheiros.com.br).

Amazon beer Encroaching forest surrounds the clearing in the centre of each Amazon Beer label. In the forest design, spot each beer’s Amazonian ingredient, like bacuri fruit.

How important is the label for a craft beer?

Firstly, it attracts attention. The second job is to convey what the beer is. Next, you want to create a shelf presence – we call it ‘billboarding’, where several labels create a section on the shelf and really magnify the presence of the brand. The labels also need depth and lots of layers.

You discover little details – it’s like an Easter egg.

What does a craft beer label typically look like?

Generally, there is some historical reference. Budweiser’s label, for example, is mostly the same today as it was in 1880. It’s the same for Miller and Coors. You usually see symmetrical organisation and often times hops and malts sort of spring out from things. That’s true for mainstream labels as well as the craft labels, though generally the craft labels are more vivid, more intense.

Santa Fé There’s a cowboy-era feel to these lager labels, with the ‘Wild West’ strapline, and Victorian elements that hark back to the late-19th century, and to a time when beers were bolder.

Where do you start with a new design?

Well, first I help clarify the mission of the brewery. Some new brewers know what that is right away. But some people are like, ‘Oh, we just want some cool thing.’ But it has to come from their personality, from their dreams. You have to decide what you don’t want to be and then what you do want to be. So we go through that process. With Marcelo [Rocha, owner of Colorado] it was very easy.

How did you get started with the Colorado labels?

Well, I have thousands and thousands of JPGs of old labels from all over the world. For the last ten years, I’ve been searching for them on eBay and downloading the images. It’s very difficult to find good design reference books on old typography or old things. Everything is about being modern and new. So, after talking with Marcelo, I looked at some of

Vintage labels

the old Brazilian beer labels and I remember being struck by their sort of naïve sense of possibility.

Tell us more about the old Brazilian labels.

They’re trying a little to copy North American or maybe European labels, but kind of over-trying, which I find really charming. You can see that in the way they try to use every little thing on the page – they’re very cluttered, but that’s the style. It’s sort of a Victorian style, like ,‘Here’s some extra space, let’s fill it up with something’; or, ‘Let’s put a slogan here’. I like to work that way, but it’s anti-modern. Modern design is neat and clean. Another common theme is a sense of partying – that fun-loving quality in the Brazilian character.

There’s dynamism and, of course, they’re flamboyant, and trying to be wonderful. If you actually tasted the beer, well… let’s just say the old labels were aspirational.

BodeBrown

‘This Curitiba brewery is making some really tasty beers. There’s one that they wanted to call Venenosa (“poisonous”) but the government didn’t approve it. So they called it Peligrosa (“dangerous”) instead.’

Where to drink it: de Bruer, Rua Girassol 825, Vila Madalena (3812 7031)

Bamberg Bier

‘Alexandre Bazzo brews fantastic German-style beers, only 100km, from São Paulo.

He looked through an atlas to find a German city to name his beer after, and luckily his choice turned out to have a very long tradition of making beers with smoked malt, and beers that are brewed with hot stones. He makes a rauchbier, which is a smoked beer, which is quite delicious.’

Where to drink it: Melograno, Rua Aspicuelta 436, Vila Madalena (3031 2921/ melograno.com.br).

Part of Randy Mosher’s collection of old beer labels from around the world, these Brazilian labels date back to the early 1900s. Two are Brahma brews (a brand that now belongs to the world’s largest brewing company), while the curvy ballerina adorns a Porto Alegre beer, Cerveja Negrita.

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Food & Drink

Diner’s digest Reviews Domenico Culinary comings and

Ecully A multi-purpose space for budding gourmets, Ecully combines restaurant, cookery school and shop, stocking recipe books, utensils and the like. The food – a blend of Mediterranean and Brazilian – can even be enjoyed in the company of your pooch. Rua Coxotó 493, Perdizes (3853 3933/ecully.com.br).

Osaka Fusion is the watchword here, with ceviche rubbing tails with sushi on a menu that also flirts with Chinese and Thai cuisine. The eatery, the latest to open on the super-smart Rua Amauri, is part of a chain that has taken off in Lima, Santiago, Buenos Aires and Mexico City. Rua Amauri 234, Itaim Bibi (30730234/osaka.com.pe).

Peixaria Giant fishy sculptures hanging from the ceiling, a coal grill inside a canoe, and a tree growing up through the ceiling are just a few of the quirky design features at this spacious, colourful restaurant-cumfishmongers. Rua Inácio Pereira da Rocha 112, Pinheiros (2589 3963).

mauro holanda/press image

Sabores de mi Tierra A diminutive Colombian food factory by day, garage restaurant by night, Sabores de mi Tierra has just two tables to squeeze onto. The lowkey dining options include arepas (stuffed corn fritters) and Colombianstyle empanadas. Rua Lisboa 971, Pinheiros (3083 3114).

Round table Iberian eats at Chiado

Vera cucina The bright, airy interior of Rua Melo Alves’s newest dining spot

A Jardins newcomer has Italy in its DNA and talent in the kitchen

Adding some welcome buzz to the hushed environs of Rua Melo Alves – long the dull neighbour of the design-and-dining catwalk Rua Oscar Freire – is a small rash of new restaurants. The newest kid on this Jardins block, hot on the heels of the buzzy bistro Le Jazz Brasserie, is Domenico, an upmarket eatery with Italy in its DNA. Giving the

restaurant its name is Sicilian owner, Domenico Masi, while the young chef Rodolfo de Santis, from Puglia, heads up the kitchen – his talent helped cement the success of the excellent Biondi.

It may be stating the obvious, but authenticity is a given if any restaurant is to truly fly. And in a city like São Paulo, where all sorts gets served up in the name of Italian cuisine, it’s a delight to see Santis sticking to the rule book when it comes to technique, with pastas

and risottos all served al dente, and tomato sauces subtly sweet rather than acidic, thanks to the San Marzano tomatoes he uses.

We visited for Sunday lunch, and so did plenty of other people, which meant an hour-long wait at the bar, made all the easier by a portion of piping hot, crispy arancini (R$28) – beef and mozzarella saffron risotto balls – teamed with an Orange Dream (Campari and orange juice cocktail, R$26). To eat, the lobster tagliolini with a creamy rocket, tomato and shellfish sauce (R$86), or the fresh spaghetti with crusty homemade bread and anchovies (R$48) – a dish from the chef’s childhood – are both unmissable.

Wood- tiled floors, exposed brick walls, starched white tablecloths and leather-backed chairs strike a pleasant balance between elegance and informality. But for a more Italian ambience, weather permitting, head to the upstairs terrace for alfresco feasting. Silvio Giannini Rua Doutor Melo Alves 674, Jardim Paulista (3037 7323/ domenicoristorante.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$46-$94; couvert R$14.50.

Le French Bazar No-frills French fare draws lunching locals and low-key diners

Following a revamp last year, the fortunes of Le French Bazar are on the up, especially at lunchtime, when the people of Pinheiros seem willing and able to spend more than an hour on a three-course set lunch.

Dinner times, with its cosy, candlelit setting, are quieter and largely compromised of couples, packed in close – a little too close: on our last visit, we could follow every word of an awkward first date three tables down. Not that we were listening. Much.

Team one of the classic bistro options – we enjoyed a tender entrecotê (R$36) and a deliciously seasoned steak tartare (R$35), both served with salad and crispy fries – with a French pear cider (R$18.75 per glass) or one of the interesting wines.

Extra points are due for serving all wines on the menu by the glass. Plus

Felipe Gombossy/press image

Chiado Having cut his teeth in two of the city’s top Portuguese restaurants, A Bela Sintra and Trindade, the chef Arnaldo Eloi is going it alone with his own Iberian restaurant-cum-bar, named after the Lisbon neighbourhood. Rua Jurucê 776, Moema (5093 3523/ chiadorestaurante.com.br).

Henrique Peron/press image

goings around town

Cosy up The local vibe and affordable menu make for fine mid-week dining you won’t find any of the ubiquitous Argentinian or Chilean suspects: alongside a respectable choice of French wines is a curious assortment from countries that include Slovenia, Greece, Hungary, Israel and Morocco.

On balmy nights, solo diners should opt for one of the tall stools set at the bar out on the street, watching the

world go by. Catherine Balston Rua Fradique Coutinho 179, Pinheiros (2768 0504/lefrenchbazar. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$62; lunch R$26$33; couvert R$5.10-$8.10.

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Food & Drink

Restaurant listings How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes.

We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

Booze talking Porco bebinho

FRENCH Ici Bistrô This chic, classically French restaurant has won considerable acclaim since its 2002 opening. The appetisers includes the duo de lula panée, crisp and wonderfully spicy squid, although the modest portion is an appetite-whetting trick (long in use by the purveyors of haute-French cuisine).

The sesame-seed-encrusted tuna steak is supremely tender and well flavoured, and the desserts deserve equal praise, especially the icy profiteroles and the signature pain perdu – a heavenly slice of caramelised French toast served with a dollop of pear compote bathed in double cream. Rua Pará 36, Higienópolis (3259 6896/icibistro.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista.

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Fri; 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Sat; 12.305pm Sun. Main courses R$43-$113; lunch R$46-$56; couvert R$8.90.

We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

BRAZILIAN Varanda Copan Sitting at the foot of the Niemeyer-designed Copan, Varanda makes for a solid dining option should you find yourself famished on a busy night in Centro. A mix of professionals as well as groups of friends congregate mid-week to drink, chat and snack. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer wide views of the streetscape, still abuzz until late evening. The low-key menu matches the low-key vibe, with à la carte options including pasta and beef, or fish dishes such as grilled salmon with a caper sauce.

Avenida Ipiranga 200, República (3120 4442/varandacopan.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11.30am-midnight MonSat. Main courses R$25-$40, lunch R$35.90 per kilo; couvert R$5-$10.

catherine balston

ITALIAN Cantina e Pizzaria Piolin A

true survivor on Baixo Augusta, where it once lived a solitary life in the midst of sex clubs, Piolin is a cheap and cheerful Italian spot where everyone, it seems, is a regular. That might have something to do with its long-standing popularity with theatre-land’s grafters – the house sponsors local performances, whose casts eat half price. Try the tried and tested lasagna alla romanesca, with white sauce, peas, ham and mushrooms, and live it up with the luvvies. Rua Augusta 311, Consolação (3256 9356/ cantinaepizzariapiolin.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1.30am Mon-Fri; noon5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; noon-2am Sun. Main courses R$41-$68 (for two); lunch R$17.50; couvert R$12.50. BARGAIN

shrimp with parma ham risotto. The restaurant’s recreation of the classic Brazilian dessert known as Romeo and Juliet elevates a simple dessert to an exquisite guava soufflé in a queijo Catupiry (Brazilian cream cheese) sauce. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/ carlota.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$73; couvert R$11.

Caipirinha, the perfect balance of sweet, citrus and a punch of cachaça, is best served with a beautiful sunset and a round of pastéis (deep-fried savoury pastries) – except, that is, when used as the marinade for porco bebinho (R$22) at Vila Madalena’s Rothko. Chef Diego Belda roasts pork ribs in caipirinha for 24 hours until they’re a tender, sticky, glorious mess. See listings.

Consolação & Higienópolis ITALIAN Camelo What started out in

1957 as an Arabic restaurant serving esfihas and houmous has reinvented itself over the years, and is now one of the city’s most traditional pizza joints.

Vast, bright, busy and welcoming, Camelo serves crunchy-based pizzas, such as the house special – pizza Camelo – with endive, bacon, palm heart and olives, or a healthier rocket and sun-dried-tomato option. Deviating slightly from the Italian theme, another tasty option is the frango à passarinho (crispy, deep fried chicken). Rua Engenheiro Edgar Egídio de Souza 98,

Higienópolis (3822 5050/pizzariacamelo. com.br). Open 6pm-1am Fri-Sat; 6pmmidnight Sun-Thu. Main courses R$64-$116 (for two). Other locations Citywide.

ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom fettuccine is one example of why Carlota wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy

MIDDLE EASTERN Kebabel ‘Beer and kebabs’ is Kebabel’s tagline, and boy do they deliver on both those promises – as well as delivering to your home, too, if you live in the area. Served in a traditional pitta, the kebabs are skinny but packed full of flavour. Try a falafel kebab with vinaigrette, pickles, Arab spices, and tahini (sesame paste) on the side. Meat lovers can opt for lamb, chicken or kofta kebabs. Still hungry? Munch on a portion of fried cauliflower or smoked javali (wild boar) sausages. To quench your thirst, order an award-winning Colorado Appia or Indica (chope R$7.50), brewed in Ribeirão Preto, or one of a range of bottled imports like the Belgian Delirium Nocturnum (R$36). Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 22, Consolação (3259 1805/ kebabel.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noonmidnight Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 6pmmidnight Sun. Main courses R$18.90$22.90. Other location Rua João Moura 871, Pinheiros (3062 7530).

ECLECTIC La Frontera A lesser-known cousin of the well-loved Argentinian steakhouse, Martín Fierro, La Frontera opened in 2006 but still feels like a local secret, despite being sandwiched between two of the neighbourhood’s busiest roads.

The owner hails from Argentina but the menu is inspired by cuisines from all over South America. The paleta de leitão (suckling pig), cooked in the oven for three hours and topped with a crisp crackling and potato purée, was light, tender and full of flavour. Sommelier Ezequiel Rodrigues

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tadeu brunelli/press image

Food & Drink

A space for Italian cuisine and culture

Open from Monday to Maonday from 12pm to 2am

Starter’s orders The pork belly with cauliflower mousseline (R$31) is one of the outstanding starters at Ici Bistrô

The complete and best Italian restaurant

has put together an excellent selection of 120 wines, and it’s pure pleasure to hear him describe the options. Rua Coronel José Eusébio 105, Higienópolis (3255 8867/ lafrontera.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 12.30-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 12.30-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$27$87; lunch R$42.

BRAZILIAN Rota do Acarajé They do

Trattoria, Buffet, Wine Cellar, Bar and Whisky Club

Free transfers from the city’s main hotels

Rua Treze de Maio, 848 Bela Vista - São Paulo/SP Phone: 11 2842.9620 www.villatavola.com.br

a delicious acarajé here – a bean-paste patty in to which you stuff vatapá (shrimp paste), prawns, and lashings of chilli – which come conveniently mini-sized for sharing as a starter. For mains, try the Bahian moqueca – a spicy fish or prawn stew with coconut milk, enriched with a rainbow of tropical flavours. The no-frills decor and pavement tables all give the place an authentically unrefined Bahian feel – as does the friendly service, which is as agonisingly slow as it is in Bahia. But the beer is cold and the food is hot, so relax and switch off that São Paulo stopwatch: for the next hour or so, you’re in Bahia.

Rua Martim Francisco 529/533, Santa Cecília (3668 6222/rotadoacaraje.com. br). Metrô 3, Santa Cecília. Open noon11.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses R$54-$115 (for two).

ITALIAN Tappo Trattoria This dinky corridor of a restaurant, only ten tables long, serves fantastic Italian food and has a surprisingly romantic and cosy ambience to match. The carpaccio of filet mignon is succulent, while the ricotta balls cooked in a rich tomato sauce are tasty without overloading the palate. The main courses of lasagne Bolognese and spaghetti all’ amatriciana (with bacon, tomato and onion) are surprisingly light, defying the stereotype of carb-heavy Italian cooking.

Rua Consolação 2967, Consolação (3063 4864/tappo.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight TueFri; 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39$74; couvert R$6.

Lapa, Perdizes, & Barra Funda

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

PERUVIAN Killa The food at this amiable

INTERNATIONAL Arturito Intimate dark wood panelling, austere lighting, and stylish seating with cushions and throw pillows distinguish this luxurious member of the São Paulo dining scene. The wonderfully varied and ever-changing menu includes some uncommon dishes for Brazil, such as leg of lamb, ceviche (raw fish marinated in citrus juices) and the Argentinian specialty of grilled sweetbreads. The menu also features outstanding classics: freshly made pasta, prime beef (try the exquisite ojo de bife) and pork as well as an extensive wine list. Rua Artur Azevedo 542, Pinheiros (3063 4951/arturito.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Thu, Fri; 12.30-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$103; lunch R$45-$56.

local eatery is not just Peruvian, but novoandina – ‘new Andean’. Peruvian cuisine is increasingly important and the novoandina concept is to mix pre-Hispanic cooking techniques with other elements like European cooking. Here at Killa, the emphasis is on Peru’s wonderful signature dish: the raw fish salad, ceviche. And it’s delicious, with lightly-flavoured, delicate flakes of fish gently bathed in citric flavours. Our only criticism? The small portions, which might leave customers with a big appetite still hungry after lunch.

Killa recently moved to a new, bigger space just three blocks down the road from its original home. Rua Padre Chico 324 (08551 8511/killa.com.br). Open 7-11.30pm Tue-Thu; 7pm-midnight Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$39.

ECLECTIC Beato This cool, colourful in Vila Leopoldina, a fast-growing spot strikes a careful balance between hip neighbourhood in the west of the city, design and good food. From the lust green Mangiare packs in as many diners foliage on one of the ceilings upstairs to as possible to its expansive but cosy the super-sized white chairs, it’s an odd former warehouse space. The maltagliati hybrid of furniture showroom and Alice pasta with Bolognese ragoût (R$32) is a in Wonderland. The food isn’t as creative delicious option, but if you’re dining as the décor – this is a simple, unfussy à deux, try the la vera menu, peppered with the odd bisteca alla fiorentina attention-grabbing dish.

(R$120 for two people) – We ordered the prime rib a T-bone steak covered (R$45) – a tender pork rib in garlic and rosemary. served with a rosemary risotto. All in all, expect To top it all off, the trio dell’amore (R$15), made tasty, good-looking e m o h made with Brazilian dishes albeit with , like the new One of s on the menuith AMMA chocolate, bijou portion sizes that asta ppardelle w p is a triple treat. may leave big appetites the pa room ragoût Avenida Imperatriz unsated. Rua dos mush $45) (R Leopoldina 681,Vila Pinheiros 174, Pinheiros Leopoldina (3034 5074/ (2538 8107/beatorestaurante. mangiaregastronomia.com.br). com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7.30Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon11.30pm Mon-Fri; 1-7pm, 8pm-12:30am Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Main Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$29courses R$32-$60. $48; couvert R$6.

ITALIAN Mangiare Hidden away

GO FOR

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

MANHATTAN

Time Out São Paulo magazine is available at all the hotels featured above and at SP Turis offices, including at Guarulhos and Congonhas airports. It’s also available at Movida car rental agencies, and can be found at all the city’s best newsstands

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as eclectic as the venue. The chef doesn’t always hit the mark, as we discovered with a somewhat bland pumpkin risotto (R$27).

A better choice were the noodles crunch com frango ao curry (R$27) – a chicken curry topped with noodles, shaved carrot, and toasted almonds. And the wonderfully creative caipirinhas – think green fig and lime, or banana with ginger and rum – are unmissable. The same goes for the tapioca pudim (R$10), a beautifully presented dessert topped with baba de moça (a creamy egg yolk and coconut sweet) and a solitary purple pitanga berry. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (4305 7727).

Open noon-5pm Mon, Tue; noon-10pm Wed-Sat. Main courses R$27-$39.

BRAZILIAN Feijoada da Lana Most paulistanos have a favourite place to eat feijoada – the heavy stew of smoked and sun-dried meats with black beans and served with rice, kale, orange slices and farofa (toasted manioc flour). Lana, a journalist by trade, offers her hugely popular version inside a small but charming Vila Madalena house, where the rich stew might not be as elaborate as some of the more expensive varieties, but where smiling service and hearty goodness are guaranteed. Rua Aspicuelta 421, Vila Madalena (3814 9191). Open noon3.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-5:30pm Sat, Sun. Lunch midweek feijoada R$30; weekend feijoada and unlimited caipirinhas R$55.

VEGETARIAN GOA Chef and owner Augusto Pinto was one of the first chefs in São Paulo to use and promote organic ingredients, and continues to evangelise healthy, ecologically-aware eating through his courses and events.

The restaurant’s sumptuous decor, with red velvet banquettes and wrought-iron chandeliers, contrasts with the simple, healthy, lunch-only menu. Try the kibbeh with mint sauce or the delicious vegetarian cassoulet. The houmous and couscous also come highly recommended. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 1152, Pinheiros (3031 0680/goavegetariano.com.br). Open noon3.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$22.50-$28; lunch R$19BARGAIN $23.

ECLECTIC Feed Food The leafy backyard restaurant of hip boutique-cum-gallery Cartel 011, Feed Food serves up dishes

ECLECTIC Miya The talented young chef Flávio Miyamura cut his teeth at some of

the city’s top contemporary restaurants before setting up Miya in 2012, in a twostorey house in Pinheiros. The small eatery has an unassuming charm, with a long, brown leather banquette lining one of the exposed brick walls, while upstairs, an intimate cluster of tables leads through to the waiting area-cum-bar, set on an openair terrace. As for the food, the menu is compact and eclectic, drawing inspiration from throughout Miyamura’s career.

Don’t miss the foie gras terrine starter (R$42), or the crispy squid tempura. Rice dishes – creamy rice with duck, and a dark beer risotto with caramelised onions – are delicately sized, and served on striking, curved-rim plates. Rua Fradique Coutinho 47, Pinheiros (3259 8760/restaurantemiya. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$79; lunch R$45 (Tue-Fri).

CONTEMPORARY Rothko Artist Diego

Belda has turned his creative hand to cuisine at his restaurant Rothko, which opened in early 2011. Drawing inspiration from a number of cuisines, each dish is a beautiful composition of flavours and vibrant colours. Order a selection of small dishes – bocadilhos – or go for a less creative but equally tasty main course. The downsides? Slow service, and a fair few items missing from the menu.

Teething troubles, we hope. Rua Wisard 88, Vila Madalena (3032 4295). Open 6pm-midnight Wed-Fri, noon-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$43.

Jardins BRAZILIAN Amadeus The Masano

family’s passion for seafood has reached the second generation. Young chef Bella Masano practically grew up in Amadeus’s dining room, and then completed her studies at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris. For an unforgettable experience, go for the richly savoury moqueca da casa, a Bahian-style fish stew made with palm oil, fish and shrimp, cooked in a clay dish. A slightly lighter option is the camarão frisson no negro (flambéed shrimp with black rice).

Another great option is the dessert with banana and tamarind sauce, while the chocolate ice-cream and coffee liquor will leave you longing for more. Rua Haddock Lobo 807, Jardim Paulista (3061 2859/ restauranteamadeus.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm, 6pmmidnight Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-4.30pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$58-$178; lunch R$72; couvert R$12-$17.

Food & Drink

JAPANESE Dô Hidden away on a back street of Pinheiros, Dô offers a good deal in a bijou package: quality Japanese food at comparatively reasonable prices, in a dining room with a cool, modern design aesthetic. The combo platters are pleasingly flexible, and purises will delight in the dearth of cream cheese and mayonnaise. It’s one of the few places in which the white fish sashimi is a highlight rather than a disappointment. The location and intimate size make this an ideal trysting spot. Rua Padre Carvalho 224, Pinheiros (3816 3958/restaurantedo.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonFri; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Prices sushi set for one from R$61; lunch R$34.

VEGETARIAN Apfel It’s food with a conscience at Apfel, whose philosophy goes beyond just vegetarianism: the restaurant’s cultural agenda includes hosting evening walks around the Centro as well as funding small theatre groups.

Set in a delightful ivy-covered townhouse in Jardins, with a second location downtown, Apfel’s service is efficient and its friendly and the seasonally-changing menu spot on, featuring delights such as garlic mushrooms on wholemeal toast, and cauliflower gratin. But take it from

Executive lunch can be a great deal .

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Food & Drink

us: when the nhoque de mandioquinha recheado com queijo de cabra (sweet parsnip gnocchi with goat’s cheese filling) is on the menu, you’d be a fool to resist. Rua Bela Cintra 1343, Jardim Paulista (3062 3727/apfel.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista.

Open 11.30am-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm, 7.30-11.30pm Sat; 11.30am-4pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$38; lunch R$24. Other location Rua Dom José de Barros 99, Centro (3256 7909).

what’s good that day, or go straight for the tasting menu (R$260). Round things up with the delicious tempura de figo com sorvete de matchá (fig tempura with green tea ice-cream, R$18.50). Rua Lisboa 55, Jardim Paulista (3088 6019). Open 7pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 7pm-1am FriSat. Main courses R$43.50-$63; couvert R$18.

BURGER Lanchonete da Cidade This is one of the best of São Paulo’s many ’50s-style diners: the originals, of course, are the city’s thousands of humble streetBRAZILIAN Dalva e Dito When in Brazil, corner lanchonetes. Here at the slightly do as the Brazilians do with a daily dose more upmarket Lanchonete da Cidade, it’s of rice and beans. A taste of traditional all about the burgers, with the succulent Brazilian cooking at Dalva e Dito Bom Bom most in demand – a may just be the most expensive 220g churrasco-style burger rice and beans you can eat in with homemade tomato sauce.

São Paulo, but many would Lanchonete’s french fries are argue that it’s worth the cost. also good, but paulistanos Chef Alex Atala, whose swear by the batatas culinary prowess has gone rústicas – crispy fried discs Noh rs a global, has plucked the best of of crunchy potato scattered See B regional dishes from across the with rosemary and cloves of country at this sister restaurant sweet, juicy garlic. Alameda to D.O.M. Unusual local ingredients Tietê 110, Jardim Paulista (3086 from the Amazon to the cerrado create 3399/lanchonetedacidade.com.br). Metrô some really unique tastes such as the 2, Consolação. Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; surubim, a fresh water fish served with noon-3am Fri, Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main a lemongrass sauce and jambu – a lipcourses R$14.50-$41. Other locations tingling green herb. Choose from two Rua Amauri 334, Itaim Bibi; Shopping types of moqueca – capixaba or the spicier Higienópolis, Avenida Higienópolis 674, baiana. To complete the experience, sit by Higienópolis; Shopping Morumbi, Avenida the big kitchen window to watch the chefs Magalães de Castro 12.000, Morumbi; at work. Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Avenida Macuco 355, Moema.

Jardim Paulista (3068 4444/dalvaedito.

BRAZILIAN Maní Tucked away on a classy, com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight quiet street in Jardins, Maní manages to Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noonbe contemporary and sophisticated and 3pm, 7pm-3am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main yet artfully unpretentious. Whether you courses R$42-$107; lunch R$55; couvert choose a table inside or out, you’re assured R$8-R$16. of an excellent meal amid the natural, SPANISH Eñe The Brazilian capital earthy ambience of one of São Paulo’s of gastronomy was still aching for a most popular and innovative restaurants. signature Spanish addition as recently as The modern cuisine is served here with 2007, when the twin brothers Sergio and flair, and chefs Daniel Redondo and Javier Torres Martinez from Barcelona Helena Rizzo deserve all the praise they’ve stepped onto the culinary scene with this received for their creative, wide-ranging small, high-quality, Catalan-influenced menu. Try their award-winning fish entrée restaurant. All concrete and dark wood on served with tucupi and bananas; or the the outside, inside the space is sleek lines roast beef in a lapsang souchong crust. and smooth surfaces. The restaurant’s Reservations strongly recommended. Rua preoccupation with beauty extends to the Joaquim Antunes 210, Jardim Paulistano food – the menu’s selection of fish and (3062 7458/manimanioca.com.br). vibrant vegetables with bold Spanish Open noon-3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; spices are all beautifully presented. Don’t noon-3pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Fri; 1-4pm, miss the pecan pie – a great example of 8.30pm-12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. the robust flavours the twins are famed for.

Main courses R$35-$68; lunch R$35; Rua Dr. Mário Ferraz 213, Jardim Europa couvert R$13-$15.

(3816 4333/enerestaurante.com.br). Open MEDITERRANEAN Ráscal With six noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noonbranches throughout the city (four of them 3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 1pm-4pm, 8pm-1am inside malls) Rascál spoils vegetarians silly Sat. Main courses R$48-$68; lunch with arguably the best salad bar in town.

R$47; couvert R$15.

For R$55, you can get your fill of quiches, JAPANESE Jun Sakamoto Chef-inmarinated vegetables, cheeses galore, fashion Jun Sakamoto has been manning breads and green salads from among the the sushi counter at his eponymous Jardins forty different items, not to mention the eatery since 2000. The small, stylish yet speciality hams and hot dishes. If the salad under-stated restaurant is well established bar feels too much like a healthy option, as a favourite among the paulistano elite. the pizza corner is generous, as are the Which means you’d be wise to book pasta and grill sections. For a delicate and ahead, especially if you want to worship colourful meal, try the ravioli Ráscal – at the temple of Sakamoto with a seat spinach ravioli with buffalo mozzarella in at the counter, where the master himself a fresh tomato sauce. Shopping Iguatemi, prepares sushi. One of Sakamoto’s bestAvenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, known dishes is the tartar de atum com Jardim Paulista (3816 3546/rascal.com.br). foie gras (tuna tartare with foie gras, Open noon-3.15pm, 7-10.15pm MonR$27). Another unexpected combination is Thu; noon-3.15pm, 7-11.15pm Fri; noonthe vieiras com sal trufado (scallops with 5.15pm, 7pm-11.15pm Sat; noon-5.15pm, truffle salt, R$12 per piece). Side step the 7-10.15pm Sun. Main courses R$26Other almost imcomprehensible menu and ask $65; buffet R$55-$65. locations throughout the city. the staff for their recommendations on

Foto: Johnny Mazzilli

IN THE AREA

s t h g i l e nd a i l a t I azil in Br

Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite, 523 Pinheiros São Paulo SP T 11 3088 4920 | 11 3064 4094

www.percussi.com.br

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MEDITERRANEAN Trebbiano Elegant

and refined, the neoclassical dining room of the L’Hotel, in pink hues, sandalwood and a touch of velvet, is popular with a very smart set of business people for both lunch and dinner. Chef Luiz Pinheiro presides over the kitchen, and the restaurant’s signature dish – lamb with a herb crust (R$71) – is a firm favourite.

The lunchtime set menu (R$70) includes a green salad and a fish or meat dish, plus dessert. Upgrade to the ‘Menu Exclusivité’ (R$125), which includes a glass of wine to accompany each course. L’Hotel, Alameda Campinas 266, Jardim Paulista (2183 0500/lhotelportobay.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp. Open noon-3pm, 7.3011pm daily. Main courses R$40-$75, lunch R$70.

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Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia STEAKHOUSE 348 Parilla Porteña At weekends, you’ll spot this steakhouse at least a block away thanks to the crowds milling about outside, drinking cold beers while they wait for a table. This joint is Argentinian by name and Argentinian by nature, down to the myriad authentic cuts of meat on the menu. The jury is out on whether the vacio (also known as the ‘corte especial 348’) reigns supreme over the bife de chorizo, but get a group together (each order feeds at least two) and you can decide for yourself. The pork ribs are the dish to go for as an alternative to beef, and the empanadas are said to be the best in São Paulo.

Exposed roof beams, rustic wooden tables and plants lend this former neighbourhood bungalow a homely feel.

Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 348, Vila Olímpia (3849 0348/restaurante384.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$59.50-$100.

Other location Rua Bahia 364, Higienópolis (4306 0348).

STEAKHOUSE Baby Beef Rubaiyat

The Iglesias family has over the years mastered the art of raising cattle. Their excellent home-reared beef is served in restaurants that combine austerity with an elegant modernity, and impeccable service.

The branches on Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and Alameda Santos are both favourites for business meetings. To see

and be seen, however, park up among the beautiful people under the giant fig tree of the sister restaurant, A Figueira Rubaiyat, in Jardins. International jetsetters will also find a Rubaiyat restaurant in Madrid as well as Buenos Aires. It’s big business – the whole portfolio was bought by an investment fund for a whopping $59.5 million in 2012. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2954, Itaim Bibi (3165 8888/ rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-12.30am Fri, Sat; noon6pm Sun. Main courses R$76-$215.

Other locations Alameda Santos 86, Paraíso (3170 5100) BARBECUE Barbacoa Priced on a

par with Fogo do Chão, the city’s other top rodízio (all-you-can-eat) meat-athon, Barbacoa isn’t cheap, but its range and quality of both cuts and creatures, including fish and wild boar, is outstanding. While many churrascarias have all the ambience of an airport lounge, the gentlemen’s club-esque atmosphere here, with an abundance of dark wood and leather armchairs, adds to the sense of self-indulgence, and the bar is a cosy spot for a pre-dinner caipirinha.

Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 65, Itaim Bibi (3168 5522/barbacoa.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon6pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Fixed price R$94.90. Other locations D&D Shopping, Avenida das Nações Unidas 12,555, Brooklin (3042 9244); Morumbi Shopping, Avenida Roque Petroni Jr. 1089, Morumbi (5181 6898).

ITALIAN Biondi Whether you go for the simple lunch menu or the full tasting menu (surprisingly good value, at R$140 for 6 courses), this is glorious good Italian food. In the tasting menu, a series of finely crafted dishes – classic Italian cooking adapted to Brazilian ingredients – arrive beautifully presented. We started with a Caprese salad and ended on a trio of panna cotta, via a series of pasta, seafood and meat dishes. The talented duo behind the venture have created an elegant setting, all hushed tones, woods and beige leather.

Floor-to-ceiling windows make for a bright, airy space during the day, while in the evening, large lamps and naked lightbulbs lend an intimate glow. On the refreshingly simple à la carte menu, the rich creamy porcini risotto is a great choice. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1026, Itaim Bibi (3078 5273/biondirestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7.30pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$46-$79.

Food & Drink

JAPANESE Sushiguen Sharp-dressed Asian businessmen, slick paulistanos and the odd tourist fill the rows of this singular sushi restaurant. A capsule of oriental perfection, Sushiguen is the perfect escape from the bustling thoroughfare of nearby Avenida Paulista. Serving up the finest fish for more than 35 years, sushi man Shimizu is clearly doing something right – and we can attest to it. Try the tirashi (R$40-$77), a fish salad in which several types of fish – including salmon, tuna and sea urchins – are placed with geometric precision atop a bed of rice in a bowl. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 2367, Jardim Paulista (3289 5566). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11pm Mon-Sat. Prices two sushi pieces from R$10$17.50; lunch menu R$24-R$40.

CONTEMPORARY Cantaloup The

contemporary architect Arthur Casas, the name behind restaurants Kosushi and Kaá, has transformed this former bakery into an impressive restaurant space. Step through the 10-foot-high wooden door to a glass-roofed winter garden, and then on into the dining room, where the highceiling, exposed beams, white-washed brick and starched white tablecloths create a sophisticated, clean, industrial look.

The food, with roots in French and Italian cuisine, is given a well-presented, modern twist, and the wine cellar, on display in

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PERUVIAN La Mar Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently. Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu.

Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce. The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth. Rua Tabapuã 1410, Itaim Bibi (3073 1213/lamarcebicheria.com). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35$60; lunch R$42.

JAPANESE Nagayama Proudly serving some of the tenderest, freshest fish in town, the thoroughly authentic Nagayama isn’t cheap; but it’s a pure delight, from the

cosy, comfortable space and the welcoming service to the virtuoso sushi and sashimi.

The delicious sushi and sashimi set for two (R$124) is easily enough for three; and try, too, the exquisite baterá – it’s a pressed rice disc jewelled with chives and dotted with tiny crunches of salmon roe, topped with even crunchier tempura (R$16 for two).

Brilliant. Rua Bandeira Paulista 355 and 369, Itaim Bibi (3079 7553/nagayama. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-12.30am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-12.30am Sat. Main courses R$37$72.50; lunch R$45.50; couvert R$6.

Other location Rua da Consolação 3397, Jardim Paulista (3064 0110).

Wobbly New menu at Miya

STEAKHOUSE North Vila Nova The

original North Grill, built years ago in Shopping Frei Caneca, recently opened a glamorous branch in the increasingly gourmet Vila Nova Conceição – one of the city’s most expensive neighbourhoods.

Despite the surrounding competition, North Grill holds its own thanks to a solid selection of premium beef, including Australian cuts and Wagyu – Japanese cattle prized for their tender meat and marbled fat. Leather seats, wood floors and an abudance of indoor foliage add up to a pleasant interior. And the prices aren’t as eye-watering as you might expect, with the set-lunch menu a particularly tempting deal. Rua Jacques Félix 365, Vila Nova Conceição (3044 4885/northvilanova.com. br). Open 11.30am-3.30pm, 7-11pm TueFri; 11.30am-11.30pm Sat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Main courses R$34.50-$95; lunch R$49; couvert R$15.

Rogério Voltan/PRESS IMAGE

Food & Drink

the restaurant, has 400 labels from 10 countries. Don’t leave without having coffee or you’ll miss the chance to taste the sublime petits fours. Rua Manuel Guedes 474, Itaim Bibi (3078 3445/cantaloup.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Fri; 7.30pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$110; lunch R$61; couvert R$9.

In business for less than a year, chef Flávio Miyamura of Miya has already reinvented his menu, presenting interesting ingredients in ever more playful – and wobbly – ways. Take the seared tuna cubes with bloody mary jelly (R$38, see above) – a starter grid of bite-sized meltin-the-mouth cubes. Or the dessert of soil-like chocolate cake crumbs sprinkled with flowers, red fruit jelly and a quenelle of goat’s cheese ice cream (R$16). See listings.

Ibirapuera & Moema ITALIAN Bráz We have heard it said that the pizza in São Paulo is so good, even the Italians are jealous. It’s a bold statement, but if you’re prepared to give it any credence at all, Bráz is probably a good place in which to make up your own mind, having been voted the city’s best pizzeria seven times by Veja. A typical meal, at the original Moema joint or any of the three other locations, should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas. There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu; but standouts include the Fosca (smoked ham, mozzarella and catupiry cheese) and the four-cheese Favorita, with taleggio, pecorino, caciocavallo and gorgonzola. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com. br). Open 6.30pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 6.30pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-12.30am Sun. Medium pizza R$45-$55.

Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090).

BARBECUE Costelaria Moema It’s all

about ribs at this barbecue joint and the secret to its success lies in the engineering marvel tucked away in its kitchen. The tall ovens are specially designed to roast an entire side of beef ribs for forty hours at a low temperature. Gratification comes quicker, however: the ribs are sliced up and served still smoking, in eight different cuts, including the spaguetinho and matambre.

The simple but sizeable sides include fried polenta, fried plantain, rice, beans and

salad. Avenida dos Imarés 758, Moema (5096 3213/costelariamoema.com.br).

Open 11.30am-4pm Mon, Tue; 11.30am11pm Wed-Sat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Fixed price R$51.90 (Mon, Tue); R$59.90 Wed-Sun.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana VEGETARIAN Alfredo Despite being just

a skip and a hop from Avenida Paulista, this vegetarian lunch spot has been mostly overlooked by the lunchtime crowds – although not by Captain Sensible of the Damned, who reviewed the place for us on his visit in April 2012.

The new branch of the Alfredo that has been delighting veggies for over sixty years downtown is reassuringly unchanged: pay by weight for your pick of delicious salads and hot dishes, or go fixed price for all you can eat. Happily, Alfredo do not renounce flavour along with flesh: they make the most of beans, quinoa, pasta and rice in their hot dishes and offer a selection of highly quaffable hot drinks for your post-prandial reverie, including ginger tea and dark, strong ‘coffee’ made from roasted corn.

Alameda Ribeirão Preto 160, Bela Vista (3251 4070). Open 11am-3pm. Prices R$31.90 per kilo; buffet R$21.90. Other location Largo do Café 14, 2nd floor, Sé, (3104 9970).

JAPANESE Shin-Zushi It might be set on an isolated Paraíso corner away from Liberdade, São Paulo’s traditional Japanese neighbourhood, but Shin-Zushi

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still delights fans of Japanese food, and was awarded the best sushi in town by Estado de São Paulo’s demanding Paladar gastronomy magazine. The sushi is cut from top quality fish and it shows; while the rice dumpling, made from authentic Japanese grains, crumbles deliciously on the tongue. There’s also a good range of imported delicacies – if your wallet will stretch to it, try at least one toro tuna sushi – an unforgettable, if greasy, piece of tuna belly. Rua Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraíso (3889 8799). Metrô 1 or 2, Paraíso.

Open 11.30am-2pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat. 6-10pm Sun. Prices two sushi pieces R$14; lunch R$28; couvert R$8.

Food & Drink

The South SPANISH Maripili Paulistanos in search of authentic Spanish grub head straight for Maripili – a small, simple restaurant whose owner, chef and waiting staff all have Spanish roots. Try a pintxo de tortilla and follow it up with a nice cup of espresso. Maripili also serves a very good gazpacho and rabo de toro (oxtail), cooked in red wine. Rua Alexandre Dumas 1152, Santo Amaro (5181 4422/maripili.com. br). Open noon-5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$10-$34.

VEGETARIAN Moinho de Pedra

BRAZILIAN Sobaria It might seem

Frustrated vegetarians will be in for a pleasant surprise at Tatiana Cardoso’s elegant restaurant. Cardoso trained in a number of vegetarian restaurants in San Francisco before opening her own place, where she combines creativity with seasonal ingredients. Choose from one of two daily specials – served with either salad or soup for R$35 or R$45 on Saturdays – or another main course option from the blackboard. White bean stews and grilled courgette tart are just two highlights. The creamy yoghurt dessert with honey and an organic red fruit sauce is a simple delight. Rua Francisco de Morais 227, Santo Amaro (5181 0581/moinhodepedrarestaurante. com.br). Open 8.30-11am, noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 9-11am, noon-4pm Sat. Prices set menu R$35-$45.

unusual to find soba noodles heading up the menu of a restaurant specialising in food from Mato Grosso do Sul. But soba is standard street food in cities like Campo Grande, where Japanese immigrants settled at the turn of the 20th century. Whatever their origin, the noodles are the star of the show here, served with strips of cooked egg, grated ginger and spring onions in a bowl of steaming, meaty broth (R$24-$28). Other specialities include the comforting sopa paraguaia (Paraguayan soup, R$20) – a paradoxically solid corn cake made with cheese and onion – and the tender cupim ao leite – strips of meat from the hump of the zebu cow. Rua Áurea 343, Vila Mariana (5084 8014). Open 10am-11pm Mon-Thu; 10am-midnight Fri-Sun. Main courses R$22-$38; lunch BARGAIN R$17.90-$21.90.

Critics’ choice Superior sushi

Foto: Johnny Mazzilli

JAPANESE Uo Katsu Once upon a time it was a fishmongers; today, Uo Katsu is a restaurant offering delicious sashimi charged by weight. One of Paraíso’s hidden gems, the place is simplicity itself, with communal tables and footstools for seats; but the fish is always fresh – and all for a very reasonable price. Leave a tip when you pay to hear them call ‘caixinha!’, at which point everyone behind the counter will thank you. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, so arrive early or be prepared to wait. Rua Manoel da Nóbrega 1180, Paraíso (3051 5855) Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Prices sashimi (per 100g) R$6-$20; sushi (per piece) BARGAIN R$1.80-$8.50.

rs o v a l f n Italiaazil in Br

PORTUGUESE Bacalhoeiro Tatuapé, in São Paulo’s endless Zona Leste, or East Zone, has been one of São Paulo’s fastest growing bairros in recent years, with deluxe real estate shooting up all over the place. It’s good news for gourmets, thanks to the ambitious new restaurants that just keep opening. This relaxed, elegant restaurant is one of them, and it serves a classic of Portuguese cuisine: bachalhau (salt cod). Kick things off with the octopus starter, fried in bacon fat with coarse salt, followed by the perfectly-salted bacalhau a lagareiro – salt cod with golden onion, served with garlic slices, broccoli, green olives and baked potato. For dessert, both the sweet rice powdered with cinnamon and the delicate sericaria do Alentejo – a milk-and-egg pudding – are delicious..

Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main courses R$58$98; lunch R$39; couvert R$17.

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Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé

Nagayama Rub shoulders with Itaim’s moneyed crowd at this longtime sushi favourite. The price tag is as much for the cool credentials as the sublime fish.

Shin-Zushi Chef Ken Mizumoto mans the counter at this top Japanese restaurant. For the full immersion, opt for the tasting menu (R$180-$280).

Uo Katsu A hidden gem in Paraíso, Uo Katsu is a no-frills sushi experience that won’t break the bank. Sashimi is charged by weight, and sushi by piece.

Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite, 523 Pinheiros São Paulo SP T 11 3088 4920 | 11 3064 4094

www.percussi.com.br

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Bars & Cafes Review

Bar listings

La Sanguchería

How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites.

For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

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NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options. is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Hello yellow The sunny façade of this recently opened Perdizes sandwich spot

Peruvians may have been eating it for millennia, but ceviche didn’t get its international moment in the spotlight until the last couple of years, when variations on the limemarinated fish theme popped up on restaurant menus all over the world.

Killa, a frontrunner in São Paulo’s ceviche stakes, cashed in on that last year, upscaling to a bigger space, with bigger fish to, er, marinate.

In its place – a dimunitive corner spot in Perdizes – Killa’s owner is now paying homage to a less glamorous Peruvian staple: the sandwich. La Sanguchería, with its bright, new, yellow façade (the décor inside has barely changed since the Killa days) serves up a choice of eight or so sandwiches plus hot snacks – all laid out on a handy placemat menu.

On clement days, park up at a table on the sidewalk, the stomping ground for the Perdizes yummy mums and dads, ambling past with tots and preened pooches.

Hearty sandwich fillings include pork ribs with sweet potato, and the comforting ‘primo del atlántico’ with crunchy, golden chunks of fried manjubinha fish served with crispy lettuce, mayonnaise and red onion, bookended by ciabatta.

The triple clássico – crustless soft

white bread alternating colourful slices of avocado, tomato and egg – was good, though didn’t equate to more than the sum of its parts.

Peru’s neighbours are the inspiration for the hot snacks, with salteñas (R$6) – Bolivian-style empanadas – and dense chickenstuffed corn tamales (R$6) – both a delight, though little more than two mouthfuls each. Homemade sauces, such as ají chilli or black olive, add an extra flavour dimension.

If the petite sandwiches haven’t filled you up, there’s always dessert.

Though before you know it you’ll have spent R$25 – for good, humble food, at not so humble prices.

Catherine Balston Rua Tucuna 689, Perdizes (3872 1625). Open 11.30am-10.30pm Tue-Fri; 12.30pm-11.30pm Sat. Prices sandwiches R$12-$15; sandwich, drink and dessert R$17.

Wedgie ‘Primo del atlántico’ sarnie

Caos In a compact little space on Baixo Augusta, Caos crams in more of everything than most bars. More funloving customers, bumping elbows at the bar or packed tight on the dance floor.

More eclectic DJ sets. And more – well, tat, with walls and shelves brimming with momentoes from the ’80s and ’90s, from film posters to telephones and door knobs – all for sale during the day, too. Even the ceilings aren’t spared, with a bicycle and Lord knows what else suspended over the convivial crowd. Shoulder your way to the bar and order a beer or a Geisha – a grape-and-lychee, saké-and-green-tea delight. Rua Augusta 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584.com.br). Open 7pm-2am Tue-Fri; 9pm-2am Sat; 7pm2am Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$20-$40.

Volt Sunglasses are in order at this fashionable joint: after the city banned ‘visual pollution’ in the form of outdoor ads and signs, proprietor Facundo Guerra bought neon lights from local brothels and placed them in the bar, hence the name. The variation on the margarita here is delicious: a reduction of ginger and passion fruit juice replaces lemon juice. Rua Haddock Lobo 40, Consolação (2936 4041/barvolt.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 9pm-2am Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; minimum spend R$30-$40.

Amigo Leal Germans originally popularised beer in Brazil, and this woodpanelled bar has a credible Rhine River feel. The name means ‘loyal friend’, and the businessmen who’ve been coming to relax here after a hard day’s work in the city centre for decades would no doubt agree.

Z Carniceria This converted butcher’s Quality draught beer, pastéis and German shop makes no attempt to hide its origins, dishes like Eisbein (pigs’ knees) are all with stuffed cow heads, a on the cards. Rua gory butcher’s mural and Amaral Gurgel 165, butcher hooks hanging República (3223 from rails on the wall.

6873/amigoleal.

The decor gives com.br). Metrô it a delightfully 3, República. perverse, Open 4pmd alternative feel, 1am Mon-Fri; co foo g for the te o b t s in n Be and the place noon-1am Sat; the run val’s best in is l a ti buzzes happily 5pm-midnight migo Le di Buteco fes . Give it a A to match with Sun. Prices chope Comida d competition your vote. a crowd revving R$5.40; caipirinha bar foo nd then cast dbute. up for the nearby R$11. whirl, a j.mp/TOSP_c clubs. Rua Augusta See ntil 12 May U Papo, Pinga e 934, Consolação (2936 Petisco This informal, 0934/zcarniceria.com.br). lively bar is right on São Open 7pm-1am Tue, Wed; Paulo’s bohemian frontline – on 7pm-2am Thu-Sat; 7pm-midnight the bustling pavement of Praça Roosevelt, Sun Prices chope R$6; caipirinha facing a concrete wasteland that’s R$14.90; minimum spend R$25-$30 currently undergoing a major face lift, (varies by night). due to be completed by the end of 2012.

The bar’s name means ‘chat, cachaça and snacks’. There’s a cut-out of Elvis Lapa, Perdizes surrounded by flashing lights outside, & Barra Funda racks of old vinyl inside, and its big O Catarina If the city won’t go to wooden tables are invariably full of loud the beach, bring the beach to the city. chat, expansive gestures and oh, go on That’s the creed of Florianópolis then, a saideira: the Brazilian version of fisherman Renato Silvy Andrade, who one for the road. Praça Roosevelt 118, recently opened this small boteco. With Centro (3257 4106). Metrô 3, República. its scattering of tables outside on the Open 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-2.30am pavement, and a handful inside, it’s a Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50; family affair here, and as simple and caipirinha R$11. No credit cards.

R O F O G

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Step aside ceviche – make way for the Peruvian sandwich

­Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Consolação & Higienópolis

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Valadares This bright yellow corner boteco in Lapa is full of local charm, from the faithful clientele to the walls adorned with framed football shirts that cross the ages and divides. The menu is an unconventional nibbles nirvana. The thought of a bread-crumbed bullfrog, rã touro à milanesa (R$12), might not leave you salivating, but it has plenty of delicious light, white meat. Cocks’ testicles (testículos de galo) weren’t available, sadly, when we visited, but bulls’ balls (testículos de boi) in garlic (R$26.90) are apparently a firm favourite.

The drinks menu is as extensive as the snacks, but the batidas (cocktails whizzed up in a blender) go down well.

Rua Faustolo 463, Lapa (3862 6167/ barvaladares.com.br). Open 11am12.30am Mon-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$3.50; caipirinha R$10.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bow-tied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel.

But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon. Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent red-and-black bar with some of the best cocktails in town. Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (3815 1364/barastor.com.br/subastor.com. br). Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-2am Tue, Wed; 6pm-3am Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat, noon-6pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50.

Botequim do Cesinha Cesinha and his wife Marisa run this small but perfectlyformed boteco, barely bigger than a garage, where the size and simple decor belie a truly impressive selection of beer.

Two fridges, filling almost a third of the space, are stocked with 80 Brazilian and foreign beers. Team up a Newcastle Brown Ale, Colorado Ale, Spitfire or Bishops Finger, with a meticulously prepared tábua de frios (cheeses and cold meats, from R$21) or the roast beef sandwich (R$10).

Rua Delfina 66, Vila Madalena (3032 0058/botequimdocesinha.com). Open 1pm-11.35pm Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$5; caipirinha R$12.

Finnegan’s Pub Named after the Irish genius James Joyce’s notoriously difficult novel Finnegan’s Wake, this is perhaps the most traditional and authentic Irish bar in the city, and a cosy spot to while away a few hours in the company of some well-poured pints. Regular rock bands and

a darts board keep punters entertained, or for a more cerebral evening join in the annual ‘Bloomsday’ event on 16 June to commemorate the life of James Joyce by reading sections of his last novel Ulysses.

Rua Cristiano Viana 358, Pinheiros (3062 3232/finnegans.com.br). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Prices Guinness pint R$18; chope R$4.80; caipirinha R$ 12; cover R$8-R$10.

Food & Drink

welcoming as if you were at a beach barraca (tent). Feast on the plump oysters, delivered from Floripa by plane on Tuesdays and Fridays, and served fresh (R$27 for half a dozen), with lime.

Team them with an artisanal cachaça (R$3), followed by a plate of heavenly, crunchy fried sardines (R$15 for four) or a casquinha de siri – stuffed crab shell (R$12). Rua Ministro Ferreira Alves 131, Perdizes (2369 5657). Open 4pm-1am Tue-Fri; 1.30pm-1am Sat; 1.30pmmidnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$16.

Gràcia ‘Catalonia is not Spain’, you hear? The masterminds behind this Catalonian-themed bar clearly had a comprehensive checklist when it came to the details, from the separatist sentiments daubed (in English, curiously) on the wall along with a map of the Barcelona Metrô, to the vivid Gaudi-style mosiac madness, and even a menu written in Catalan. Jugs of sangria grace most tables, with a plethora of fruits and flavours to choose from. Go in a group for happy hour, but move on before the unbearably loud house music kicks off around 10pm. Rua dos Coropés 87, Pinheiros (2306 5478/graciabar.com. br). Open 6pm-late Tue-Fri; noon-late Sat; 4pm-late Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$18; cover R$0-$30.

Melograno In this oasis of calm in the midst of the Vila Madalena chaos, you can find a comprehensive menu of beers from around the world and, if you’re lucky, settle at a table in the leafy garden at the C back. Melograno is a discreetly stylish M little bar; and the food’s not bad, either, covering Brazilian bar snacks, paninis and Y comforting classics like fish and chips, served wedged into a pint glass. The beer CM menu was relaunched in 2012 with a smaller but still impressive selection of 130 MY brews, some of which are grouped into setprice tasting menus. Rua Aspicuelta 436, CY Vila Madalena (3031 2921/melograno. com.br). Open 6pm-midnight MonCMY Thu; 6pm-1am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$7; caipirinha R$18.

K Twelve Bistro It’s all about beer and tasty, home-cooked food here. The eclectic menu – created by the Australian owner and chef Gregor Caisley – is well executed.

The curried lamb pastéis with mango chutney (R$16), a tasty take on the muchloved deep-fried Brazilian snack, are a good bet to start. Team them with one of a respectable selection of beers, with plenty of Brazilian options to choose from, including the popular Colorado brand.

Beers from around the world also get a good look in. Rua Simão Álvares 1018,Vila Madalena (3562 7550/twelvebistrot.com. br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Sat; noon7pm Sun. Prices chope R$4.90; caipirinha R$14.

Jardins Bar da Dida Candle-lit by moonlight, this ace little bar on the edge of Jardins doesn’t get going till the hairdressers’ next door winds down – that’s because the sought-after, humble plastic tables are set out on the salon’s parking spaces. Huge caipirinhas and a buzzing atmosphere make this simple, friendly spot one of our absolute faves. Rua Doutor Melo Alves 98, Jardim Paulista (3088 7177/ bardadida.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 6.30pm-1am Tue-Sat; 5.30pmmidnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

Divine Wine Bar In a city in which a decent glass of wine can be hard to find without sitting down to eat, this is a welcome addition to the nightscape.

With around fifty wines on the menu, twenty of them are available by the glass, although the cheapest is a steep R$20.

The clever Enomatic machine, which dispenses perfectly-preserved wine, is a good (though equally expensive) place to start if you want to taste a few, in either a snifter (25ml), a slug (75ml) or a small bucket (160ml). A mere fifteen tables are packed cosily together in this intimate basement space, keeping the crowd small and select. Our only question: what’s with the loud disco music? Alameda Jaú 1844C, Jardim Paulista (3063 3961/divinewinebar.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista.Open 7pm1am Tue-Sat. Prices wine glass R$28$96; wine bottle R$76-$918.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

Noh On first impressions, Noh is exactly what you might imagine an upmarket bar in an expensive city to be – classy, low-lit and peopled by attractive punters clutching sophisticated drinks. But as the evening wears on and the covers band starts up, the bar’s true colours came shining through – more upscale Cheers than high-flying Gordon Gecko hangout.

The decent, at times ambitious cocktail menu never quite hits the high notes the bar is going for – molecular flourishes like the Fresh Hot (R$23), a grape martini accompanied by a strawberry injected with chilli, are passable rather than revelatory. Rua Bela Cintra 1709, Jardim Paulista (2609 3673/nohbar.com.br).

Open 6-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 7pm-1.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; caipirinha R$18, cover R$20-R$70.

Botequim do Hugo This charming, homely bar is in stark contrast to the relentlessly upmarket restaurants and bars of Itaim, especially if there’s no room in the rustic yard and you have to sit in the back room with the beer crates, the fish tanks, and the deep freeze. It’s the Brazilian equivalent of an English country pub, except that the beer is cold, and the buracos quentes (minced meat and cheese-stuffed rolls) are excellent. Don’t dilly-dally on the way, because it closes early. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1014, Itaim Bibi (3079 6090/botequimdohugo.com.br).

Open 4-10pm Mon-Fri. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Bardot ‘Eat, drink, flirt’ is the mantracum-slogan of this hangout for the wellheeled: an extensive menu deals with the first two, whilst a DJ keeps the beautiful people grooving decoratively, with mirrors dotting the walls and ceilings to make it easy to survey the talent. Glam it up with a martini, a champagne cocktail or the ‘Brigitte,’ a cocktail with raspberry vodka, Chambord raspberry liqueur and cranberry juice. Sunday afternoon sessions (with live music and a cover charge of R$20-$40) are a big hit with a young crowd. Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 260, Itaim Bibi (3071 2859/botecobardot. com.br). Open 5pm-late Mon-Fri; noonlate Sat; 2pm-late Sun.Prices chope R$5-$5.50; caipirinha R$16-$18, cover R$0-40.

O’Malley’s This big, noisy gaff would love to be called a traditional Irish pub, and a home-from-home for every expat in town. But O’Malley’s is just as popular with Brazilians as it is with homesick airline pilots looking for someone to talk to – or more – on a layover. It’s more like one of the chain pubs you find inside London railway stations than a cosy country boozer; but there are beers from Mexico, the Czech Republic and Belgium, and there’s nowhere better to get drunk while watching Irish rugby, if that’s your bag. Alameda Itú 1529, Jardim Paulista (3086 0780/omalleysbar.net). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-4am Mon-Thu; noon-5am Fri, Sat; noon-4am Sun. Prices chope R$10; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$35 (after 9pm).

Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled by the hum of chatter as you approach Bottagallo, or by the huddles of people outside, relaxing on the long benches with a beer or standing around chatting.

Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; and happily – because the wait is well worth it. Kick off with one of the no-fuss house cocktails to get things going – the Vesper martini, with a hint of lemon, is a good call, whether piccolo (R$18) or regular (R$23). Once inside and settled at one of the rustic wooden tables, just let the efficient, friendly waiters keep the cold chope coming, and order a plate or two of the delicious, made-for-sharing tapas. Rua Jesuíno Arruda 520, Itaim Bibi (3078 2858/bottagallo.com.br). Open 6.30pmmidnight Mon; 6.30pm-1am Tue-Thu; 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; noon2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$16.50.

Tutto Italiano Bar & Cucina Tacked on to the side of its sister restaurant, Tutto Italiano Bar has all the hallmarks of a New York speakeasy. Its art deco finish – mirrors, chrome, woods and leather banquettes – is beautifully lit in soft yellow by wall lamps, making it a sophisticated spot for trysting or a drink alone, with that rare-to-find-in-SP quality of seating at the bar. A good selection of Italian bitters go into interesting cocktails. If you’re more in the mood for a glass of wine, best look elsewhere: there’s just one option by the glass here, and it’s an overpriced Frascati (R$17).

Rua Melo Alves 191, Jardim Paulista, (3061 9639/tuttoitaliano.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-2am Fri; noon-2am Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$15.

MyNY Bar Rolling in its tumbler like a heavy crystal ball, the spherical ice in MyNY’s Old Fashioned cocktail is designed to melt at the perfect rate: slowly. Designed? Ice? Oh yes.

As ambitious in its mixology as it is unpretentious in its old-school Manhattan decor and service, MyNY Bar is the kind of place that imports a Japanese ice machine, then matches each piece of ice to its drinks. It’s a nerdy attention to detail that extends into the all-round experience of a night in the bar, slotted into a ground-floor booth or overseeing the bartenders from a table on the mezzanine walkway. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1285, Itaim (3071 1166/mynybar.com.br).

Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-1.30am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2.30am Thu; 6pm3.30am Fri; 8pm-3am Sat. Prices chope R$6.40; caipirinha R$18.

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Bar do Juarez There is a subtle art decoaesthetic at work in the ever-popular Bar do Juarez, packed with older crowds drawn to the wide selection of whiskies and cachaças. The self-service, per-kilo spread of bar snacks blows most other bars right out of the water with its olives and cheeses, cold cuts and pickles; but avoid the watery caipirinhas with their thinsliced lime. Avenida Jurema 324, Moema (5052 4449/bardojuarez.com.br). Open 5pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$14.

Other locations Avenida Deputado Franco de Lacerda 642, Pinheiros (3578 5228); Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 1164, Itaim (3078 3458); Rua Joaquim Nabuco 325, Brooklin (3969 4988).

Bottega Paradiso After working up a thirst in Parque do Ibirapuera, you can’t go wrong with the Italian eats and cold beer at Bottega Paradiso. Just a five-minute walk beyond the park’s portão (gate) 9, Bottega Paradiso is, like its owner, part Brazilian, part-Italian. Try the elaborate crostini ai fichi – grilled figs drizzled with honey, balsamic vinegar, melting Camembert cheese, Parma ham and rocket, on bread (R$23.10). Classic Italian rice balls – arancini – are a delight, too. And if the sun is shining, pull up a pew under the striped beige awning of the outdoor terrace. Rua

Critics’ choice Cocktail hour

Pirapora 218, Ibirapuera (3052 1473/ bottegaparadiso.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14.

Food & Drink

Ibirapuera & Moema

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Pacha Ynti Bar Salsa! Merengue!

Mambo! They’re doing all that and the cha-cha-cha (possibly) here at Pacha Ynti, a cosy, low-lit Latin dancehall. Step through the doors and dance your corazón out; or simply park up on one of the rows of round tables with a mojito, and watch the smart-stepping duos kick up a storm.

Rua 13 de Maio 192, Bela Vista (3257 9556/pachaynti.com.br). Open 10pm-4am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.90; caipirinha R$12-$18; cover R$12-$20.

Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts. Hopefully not though. Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm-12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini

Mauro Holanda/press image

Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo. References to his work pepper the bar, from his cheery face in photos and caricatures lining the walls right down to the menu, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar. com.br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am-2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

MyNY Drinks mixed with the likes of homemade bitters and ginger beers deserve to be sipped slowly. Settle into a leather banquette at this lowlit cocktail spot and take your time.

SubAstor Arrive early to bag a seat at this sassy basement bar. The way to go is with the riffs on classic cocktails. Make yours the Chef Killed Bloody Mary (R$21).

Tutto Italiano A good spot for a drink à deux, Tutto Italiano is all yellow hues and art deco elegance. Pucker up to a Negroni Sbagliato with Campari, Aperol, vermouth and a dash of prosecco (R$23).

The North Chama da Serra Day trippers to Parque da Cantareira should keep their eyes peeled for this bar-cum-deli delight – the perfect pitstop for refreshments in the middle of one of the biggest urban forests in the world. Team a platter of cheese, cold cuts or one of the homemade pasta dishes with all manner of liquid gratification from the bar, which is surprisingly well stocked given its remote location. Barrels of locally distilled artisanal cachaça in fruity flavours line up next to wooden racks of wine, and shelves stacked with a range of award-winning Colorado beers from Riberão Preto. Estrada Santa Inês 3190, Mairiporã (4485 0292). Open noon-9pm Tue-Sun. Prices 600 ml beer R$5-$6; caipirinha R$15.

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Food & Drink

Café listings How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 24 hours daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.50; sandwiches R$4-$22. 24 HR

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana

CAFÉ Café Floresta Slotted in on

CAFÉ Fran’s Café Set at the foot of

the immense apartment block opposite Vila Madalena Metrô, this homely Fran’s Café is a favourite with night owls and homeward-bound clubbers. Tons of magazines to browse and decent, straightforward food – try the Croque Monsieur – make it a great spot for a solo dinner and a read. Avenida Heitor Penteado 1326, Vila Madalena (3675 3444/ franscafe.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 24 hours daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.80; sandwiches R$14-$25.

24 HR Other locations Citywide.

café Lady Fina This recently opened

the ground floor of Oscar Niemeyer’s immense Copan building, this standingroom-only café is arguably the best old-school spot for coffee downtown.

It’s tiny, and simple, and it’s open on all sides – more like a hole-in-the-wall coffee stand than a cosy café. But step up to the counter and order a coffee and you’ll feel just like a local, lined up alongside the Copan residents stepping out into the world for the day and the coffee lovers stopping in for a well-pulled shot. Avenida Ipiranga 200, República (3259 8416/cafefloresta.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 8am-10pm daily.

Prices cafezinho R$3.

NEW

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro LANCHONETE Bar e Lanches Estadão A pioneer in 24-hour service, Estadão, as it’s best known, is a boho hangout from the old school. With a simple, egalitarian atmosphere, the place hosts a crowd that includes artists, taxi drivers, policemen, executives and motoboys – bike couriers.

The magnificent pernil (pork) sandwich is the signature dish. Viaduto Nove de Julho 193 (3257 7121/estadaolanches.

CAFÉ Café Martinelli Midi In keeping

with the emblematic Martinelli building, which became South America’s first skyscraper when it opened in 1929, the building’s café transports customers back to a bygone era, with 1920s furniture and décor. In this dreamy setting, sip a coffee made in the traditional filter method with brands such as IAO and Armonizzare, or go for a more inventive coffee. The French-inspired kitchen’s croques (R$17.90), the leek quiche (R$4.50), vol-auvents (R$23) or the pear tart with almonds (R$8.90) make the perfect accompaniment.

Rua Líbero Badaró 508, República (3104 6825/cafemartinellimidi.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.30; sandwiches R$5-$18.

homely spot, with airs of a West Berlin café, is the result of two years of planning by the owner, ex-model Laura Wie. She dug out old family recipe books to put together a menu, whose highlights are the German-style desserts and pastries – original recipes from Wie’s grandmothers – like the Frau Sampio, an orange flan (R$9.50).

The vibrant reds and floral prints at this recently-opened café provide bonus interior design inspiration. Rua Loefgreen 2481, Vila Mariana (2359 2080). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$16.30-$19.80.

Jardins PÂTISSERIE Pâtisserie Mara Mello As you might expect from the swanky location on São Paulo’s ‘design avenue’, this sweet shop and patisserie may be small, but its contents are most certainly perfectly formed. Immaculately presented sweets and macaroons are hidden safely away from wandering hands in glass cabinets, looking almost too perfect to eat.

Team a sweet treat with a cup of coffee at one of a handful of tables. Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1308, Jardim Paulistano (3081 5229/maramello.com. br). Prices cafezinho R$3. Open 10am7pm Mon Fri; 10.30am-5.30pm Sat.

Santo Amaro & Campo Belo café Café des Fleurs What Café

des Fleurs lacks in space – there are just seven tables – it makes up for in cosy ambience, with a cute Provençal décor. The espresso (R$3.90), made with Orfeu beans, as well as Nespresso options, go well with the homemade croque monsieur (R$23.90), followed by a mil-folhas – custard cream (R$13.50).

Divine. Rua Gabriele D’annunzio 1291, Campo Belo (5093 2003). Open 11.30am-10pm Tue-Fri; 9am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.90; sandwiches R$8.90-$19.90.

CAFÉ Paris 6 Café Imagine you are an

extra in Midnight in Paris as you slide in to the red leather banquette in this Art Nouveau-style café. Literary genius here may be restricted to postcards and tweeting, but it’s a cosy spot nonetheless to enjoy a coffee and a Nutella crêpe. For more substantial eats, the bistro-style menu includes sandwiches, omelettes and quiches. Alameda Tietê 279, Jardim Paulista (3085 1595/paris6.com.br).

Open 8-1am daily. Prices cafezinho R$4.80; sandwiches R$25-$35.

Critics’ choice Late-night bites

this bakery, café and sorveteria (icecream parlour) all in one, the glassedin, European-style veranda and the charming red-velvet interior are perfect settings for a cup of tea and a sampling of the brilliant desserts – the heavenly vanilla slice (R$8.70), for instance.

Alameda Jaú 554, Jardim Paulista (3262 3542/patisseriedoucefrance.com.br).

Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp. Open 8am8pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.90; sandwiches R$14.90-$18.50.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia BAKERY Saint Germain Smack bang

in the middle of the bustling business neighbourhood of Itaim, this bakery makes for a perfect pitstop between meetings.

Look past the kitsch, alpine-style façade: originally from Curitiba, Saint Germain in São Paulo has kept its reputation for both the quality and variety of its breads, and has one of the crispiest pães na chapa (buttered toast, R$1.80) we’ve had the good fortune to try. The espresso (R$2.80) comes with a little chunk of homemade brownie.

Rua Manoel Guedes 110, Itaim Bibi (3167 5400/saintgermain.com.br). Open 6am10pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.10; sandwiches R$12.20-21.50.

Ike Levy/press image

CAFÉ Pâtisserie Douce France At

Estadão A standing spot at the counter and a hot pernil (ham) sandwich here, in the early hours of the morning, are the stuff dreams are made of.

Fran’s Café␣ Join the studious types and insomniacs, the post-club ravers and the early-morning workers at Fran’s all-hours cafe.

Paris 6 Café While not a 24-7 joint, it’s nonetheless one of SP’s more sophisticated spots for a posttheatre bite and caffeine fix.

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Shopping & Style

vinicius nunes/press image

Markets, malls and beauty

Double take Baixo Augusta’s trusty fun-times bar Caos opens a shop for daytime browsing

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Shopping & Style

Alex Korolkovas/press image

Reinaldo Meneguim photos/press image

Chaos theory

Pop-up purchase The bar-cum-thrift-store Caos (left and above), with owners Tibira and Carrô, and a glimpse of the new pop-up, Mad House

Head out in search of a retro bargain at Caos Store, the new sibling to Baixo Augusta’s bar-cumthrift-store, Caos. Evelin Fomin investigates Brazil might be a so-called New World country, but with more than half a millenia of history under its belt, it’s a travesty that the new so often reigns supreme over the old. Antiques are a case in point, with precious few places in São Paulo in which to pick up a piece

of furniture predating the 21st century – that you’d actually want in your front room, that is. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde in Pinheiros, with its clutch of antique shops and furniture restorers is, perhaps, the only exception.

Vintage clothing stores are easier to find, but good old-fashioned thrift shops, stocking everything from second-hand clocks and china to retro toys, at bargain prices, are as rare as hen’s teeth. Which is why the bar-cum-thrift-store Caos, with a jumble of more than 3,500 retro knick-knacks from the ’80s and ’90s hanging from every available wall

and ceiling space, was such a hit when it opened last year.

Shop by day, bar by night, Caos is now set to open a sister shop – Caos Store – at the beginning of May, at the opposite end of Rua Augusta, in Jardins. ‘For the less experienced bargain hunter, it’s not easy to shop here [at Caos],’ says Jose Tibiriçá, best known as ‘Tibira’ – the collector, nightlife entrepreneur and one of the owners of Caos. ‘In the new Jardins store, we want to organise the collection better, categorising objects by region, for example.’

Like its older sibling, Caos Store is

also part of a multi-purpose space, the currently monikered Mad House – a pop-up which set up residence in Dive Bar last month. The cavernous, industrial-style hangout will also comprise a coworking space by day, with free Wi-Fi and sofas, and a cultural and events space by night, and a different shop or brand hosting a market each Sunday afternoon.

Caos is on Rua Augusta 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584. com.br). See Bar listings.

Caos Store (at Mad House) is at Rua Augusta 2,559, Jardim Paulista (3081 4431).

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Malls & markets

Felipe Pinheiro /press image

Cidade Jardim There are more malls in São Paulo than you could visit in a lifetime, but only one for which Kate Moss serves as the public face, having recently bumped Sarah Jessica Parker off the bill. The lavishly swish mall, with its picturesque roof terrace, features Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Montblanc and Brazilian designer Carlos Miele. Don’t miss Chocolat du Jour, possibly the best chocolate store in town. Taxi, private car or helicopter are the only means of arrival allowed. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (3552 1000/shoppingcidadejardimjhsf.com. br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun, holidays. Hours at food kiosks and restaurants vary.

Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, one of Avenida Paulista’s most famous landmarks. This David Libeskind project from 1958 is innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops.

Revamped after a fire broke out in 1978, the complex is home to the bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura, and to one of São Paulo’s best cinemas, Cine Bombril. The digital clock and thermometer that crown the building are a landmark and a daily reference for countless paulistanos. Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (3179 0000/ccn.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat, Sun & holidays.

Eldorado This mall’s previous incarnation was as a branch of a 1980s department store, and those powershoulder-pad days still haunt the place, at least in terms of the interior design.

Eldorado’s two basement levels cater to every need, from dog grooming to cellphone repairs; or for a bit of light, chilly relief from consumption, conspicuous or otherwise, one of the only permanent ice-skating rinks in town is located in the second basement (R$35 for 30 minutes). Avenida Rebouças 3970, Jardim Paulistano (2197 7800/shoppingeldorado. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary.

Frei Caneca Located close to Avenida Paulista, this mall is at the heart of São Paulo and is famous not only for marketing culture, but also for generating it – amongst its numerous shops, nine cinemas and two theatres, it also hosts events and conferences, and has a professional drama school named after Wolf Maya, one of Brazil’s most prestigious soap opera directors. Its cinema is known for being eclectic, with national and international movies on the menu, whether commercial or cult. The food court tends to get a bit crowded at lunchtime, so you might find yourself sharing a table.

Rua Frei Caneca 569, Consolação (3472 2000/freicanecashopping.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-10pm Mon-

New in town Lapinha Urbana

One of Brazil’s oldest spas, Lapinha, located 70km outside Curitiba, the capital of Paraná state, arrived in São Paulo last month in a waft of scented oils. Small and perfectly formed, the new branch, Lapinha Urbana, has set up on the top floor of an Itaim medical centre, with four massage rooms, a yoga and Pilates room and a chill-out veranda. Massages, with 12 different types to choose from, start from R$180. Rua Joaquim Floriano 533, 17th floor, Itaim Bibi, (3377 4473/lapinha.com.br).

Open 11am-9pm Mon-Fri; 11am-6pm Sat. Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary.

Galeria Ouro Fino São Paulo’s wealthier alternative crowd heads to this gallery. There are tattoo studios, lingerie shops and hairdressers; and above all, there are small-scale designer shops selling creative or unusual outfits like US Army-inspired fatigues at the appropriately named US Army. Rua Augusta 2690, Jardim Paulista (3082 7860/galeriaourofino.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat. Galeria do Rock A haven for rockers and emos, affectionately known as ‘emoland’ by city satirists, the Galeria do Rock is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to the various facets of the music scene. CDs, vinyl, T-shirts, accessories, flags and posters – you name it, it’s here and it’s ready to rock. The bottom floor is dedicated solely to hip hop and ‘black music’, as Brazilians term it. The prices are lower than at equivalent speciality shops in other areas around the city; and on Saturdays, a battalion of teenage rockers invades. Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (3337 6277). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat.

Ibirapuera One of the biggest shopping centres in town, Ibirapuera has more than 400 stores plus a gourmet food area. Charming small shops can also be found outside the mall, on avenidas BemTe-Vi and Gaivota, and ruas Pavão and Normandia. Avenida Ibirapuera 3103, Moema (5095 2300/ibirapuera.com. br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am10pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Iguatemi This, the city’s oldest shopping centre, still manages to hold its own in terms of sophistication and class, despite a rash of new high-class malls. Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton and Ermenegildo Zegna are just some of the designer dreams on display, while Tiffany & Co has a street-front store on the ground floor. Check out the Brazilian high-fashion shops like Rosa Chá and Maria Bonita, or for slightly more affordable international style, head for Zara and Diesel. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulistano (3816 6116/iguatemisaopaulo.com.br).

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, food court 11am-10pm; shops 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

JK Iguatemi A two-month delay in the opening of the deluxe new shopping mall JK Iguatemi, the result of its having failed to comply with traffic-calming measures, hasn’t dampened any of its opulence.With its slick, high-shine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls.

Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri) and predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop and its brother brand, Topman. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary.

Market Place This is a small, bijou mall that goes for quality, not quantity of stores. A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, it also has an excellent food court with a huge variety of options. Go for baby back ribs at Outback, check out Mango’s Smoothies and Brigaderia, and don’t miss the shops Doc Dog and Calvin Klein. Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan 902, Brooklin (3048 700/marketplace. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Morumbi Morumbi is a favourite with young executives in the area for its firstfloor gym (Companhia Athletica) as well as for its branch of the Fnac bookstore, which hosts music shows, art events and book releases. The food court has gourmet restaurants including Ganesh (Indian food) and Barbacoa (meat). Brazilian brands Animale, Gloria Coelho and Mara Mac are also worth a look. Avenida Roque Petroni Jr 1089, Brooklin (4003 4132/ morumbishopping.com.br). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Pátio Higienópolis Located on a pleasantly leafy boulevard in this lovely upmarket neighbourhood, this mall is at first hard to distinguish from the mansions and 1950s residential buildings around it.

It’s popular for its branch of the high-end pizza joint Bar des Arts, and brands like Calvin Klein underwear and L’Occitane.

Avenida Higienópolis 618, Higienópolis (3823 2300/patiohigienopolis.com.br).

Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun & holidays.

Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Pátio Paulista The largest mall on Avenida Paulista is home to chains like Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering. The sleek interior appeals to Avenida Paulista businessmen, primarily for midday trips to the food court, while kids flock to its small three-screen movie theatre. Rua Treze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 1100/shoppingpaulista.com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm MonSat, 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Shopping

Shopping malls

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Capitão Pinto Ferreira Street Market Of São Paulo’s many street markets, this one in Jardim Paulista, one of São Paulo´s wealthiest neighbourhoods, is particularly good.

There’s a huge range of fresh fruit and vegetables, and top quality fish and seafood. Rua Capitão Pinto Ferreira, Jardim Paulista. Open 7.30am12.30pm Fri. CEAGESP If you’re interested in buying plants, flowers or fruits, try the state market CEAGESP (also known as Ceasa), located in the west of town close to Parque Villa-Lobos. The wholesale market feeds the entire city, but offers a number of retail sales as well, with prices that take some beating.

Tuesdays and Fridays are plant and flower days. Get there early to find good deals and fresh products. For fruit, Wednesdays (at night) and weekends (in the morning) are the peak times. And if all the healthy, fresh produce and natural aromas get a bit much, outside the entrance you’ll find a hot dog stand, open 24 hours a day, with ‘dogs made the paulistano way, with mashed potatoes, cheese, corn and potato matchsticks. Avenida Dr Gastão Vidigal 1946, Vila Leopoldina (3643 3700/ ceagesp.gov.br). Open 5am-10am Tue; 4-10pm Wed; 5-10am Fri; 7am-noon Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. No credit cards.

Feira da Água Branca Enough of agro-toxic and transgenic products: this market is pro-nature and pro things as they should be found in nature. All the produce here is certified by the Brazilian Organic Agriculture Association. Parque da Água Branca, Água Branca (3875 2625). Open 7am12pm Tue, Sat & Sun. Feira de Antiguidades e Arte do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast everything from antique clocks and furniture, clothes and records to vintage watches, brooches and sunglasses.

There’s also a number of excellent food stalls, selling a plethora of delicacies, including homemade Italian cuisine inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s nearby version of Little Italy. Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the many things to be found at this beautiful market underneath the hulking body of the MASP. Although the prices can be quite hefty, only oneof-a-kind articles are purveyed here.

Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista.

Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am5pm Sun. Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da Liberdade) This weekly fair has been going since 1975, and remains one of São Paulo’s best loved Sunday passeios.

Its 240 stalls mostly compete for your stomach, with a vast range of Japanese and Chinese fast-food treats on offer at a reasonable price. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Melona ‘creamsicles’ – a curious and delicious South Korean ice-cream phenomenon – have become synonymous with Liberdade, and are available in most

grocery stores and some restaurants. stand well into the afternoon, but try Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 to get there before 4pm. Praça Benedito 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open Calixto, Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto.

9am- 6pm Sat, Sun. com.br). Open 8am-7pm Sat. Feira de Artes, Cultura Feira da República e Lazer da Praça Running continuously Benedito Calixto since 1956, this openSurrounded by gift air centre has 600 and furniture shops, stands and a wide this Saturday selection of market sells bricfood, including à-brac as well as Japanese antique furniture yakisoba; – do stay on your acarajé, the Apfel e Saturday th guard, as many deep-fried ute to downtown ro n e ff e goods are copies – Bahian shrimp Stop o t at Apfel, th h veggie tc e o -n vinyl, clothes and treat; and mark of a top branch lunch buffet. jewellery. It’s busiest common or garden ts n ra in the afternoons, hot dogs. There stau See Re when live music, is also a large chorinho, kicks in from open-air gallery 2.30 to 6.30pm, and a buzzing where local artists gay scene spills onto the pavements sell paintings. Praça da República, outside some of the square’s bars and República. Metrô 3, República. Open cafés. Vendors’ stalls are up early and 9am-5pm Sat, Sun.

IN THE AREA

Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying an incredibly colourful array of fruit and vegetables. There’s an abundance of native fruits, as well as exotic offerings from Asia. Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. Beware, though: if you start buying fruit to take away, you can rack up a bill of R$100 or more in one small bagful . The famous bacalhau (Portuguese-style salt cod), with its aroma of olive oil and a melt-in-yourmouth quality, is a Mercadão favourite.

It can be tried in the form of a pastry at Hocca Bar, or bought at a number of shops in the labyrinthine market. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/mercadomunicipal.com. br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

Dishy Oxford Porcelanas

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Shopping

Markets

To celebrate sixty years in business as Oxford Porcelanas, one of Brazil’s oldest ceramics manufacturers, the prolific industrial designer, Egyptian-born Karim Rashid, was invited to create 14 commemorative crockery collections. Comprising enough dinner-tea-and-coffee-sets and glassware to fit out a palace, the collections align Rashid’s ultra-modern approach with the trademark freshness of the firm, based in Oxford, Santa Catarina, in southern Brazil. Look out for the easy-grip ‘Knukle’ mugs (R$15.78-$27.28), their handles moulded to accommodate fingers, in graduating tones of green and white. Or the evocatively Brazilian fluid black, white and grey curves of the ‘Loop Toss’ dinner set (above). Available at Du Chapéu Presentes, Avendia Vautier 455, Pari (2126 5700).

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Out & About

PORAS CHAUDHARY/PRESS IMAGE

This month in S達o Paulo

Art & Museums Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Sports & Fitness

48 52 56 57 60

Pop of colour Portuguese pop band, The Gift, make it to the stages of Brazil for Rock in Rio 2013

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Art & Museums Art of glass Get a glimpse inside Lina Bo Bardi’s striking Casa de Vidro, at a prestigious group exhibition inspired by the building. Matt Phipps heads inside

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As the architectural style the city arguably does best, Modernism regularly amazes visitors to São Paulo in the form of its most emblematic buildings, from the squat art box MASP and the pyramidal FIESP, both neighbours on Avenida Paulista, to the curving Copan building and the red-tongued concert hall, Auditório Ibirapuera, the latter two by the late architect Oscar Niemeyer. But chances to examine the style up close in its domestic form are rarer – which makes an exhibition being held this month at the former home of Lina Bo Bardi (1914-1992), one of the city’s defining architects, a don’tmiss opportunity.

Widely regarded as the seminal Bo Bardi creation, the 1951 Casa de Vidro (‘Glass House’) was home to Bo Bardi and her husband Pietro Maria Bardi. It’s a stunning glass-walled house in the leafy neighbourhood of Morumbi that appears to rise above, yet remain deliriously entangled within the surrounding rainforest. The paradox is deliberate, embodying a dialogue between European Modernism and the lush strains of its Brazilian counterpart, and it’s this kind of interplay that recurs in all of Bo Bardi’s best work,

Treehouse Vegetation barely reached the first floor of the Casa de Vidro when its construction was completed in 1951 this time between Bo Bardi’s work and the artists who have drawn inspiration from it. The concept is simple: Obrist gives a set of invited artists freedom to respond to any aspect of the Casa de Vidro, and the resulting site-specific artworks transform the house into a gesamtkunstwerk, or ‘total artwork’. The ensuing ‘complex organic system’ will, Obrist believes,

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from the floating monolith of MASP (1968) to the SESC Pompeia (1982) arts and leisure centre – a utopian space built from the remains of an old factory complex.

With the exhibition at Casa de Vidro, ‘The Insides are on the Outside’, Hans Ulrich Obrist, the director of London’s Serpentine Gallery, has created a show intended to stimulate yet more interaction –

In installments Art in action with Gilbert & George (left) and Cinthia Marcelle’s musical collage in the making

reveal hitherto invisible aspects of the house and confirm its status as ‘a box of tools for the continued practice of art and architecture’.

So far, so conceptual. But here’s the thing: it works. Following on from similar interventions at the houses of the Mexico City architect Luis Barragán and the Spanish playwright Federico García Lorca, the current show was also preceded by ‘Prelude’ – a one-day, invite-only premiere of several of the artists’ works at the Casa de Vidro held during the opening week of the 2012 São Paulo Bienal.

Happily for us, the works unveiled that day remain incorporated in the house for this leg of the show. Look out, then, for Gilbert & George’s photographic record of their moment as living sculptures inside the house, and listen out for the recording made by the Brazilian artist Cinthia Marcelle of a 10-piece ensemble performing a polyphonic collage of music from Lina and Pietro’s record collection – a vinyl recording of which has been put back into the original collection. In a multisensory

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‘The Insides are on the Outside’ is on until 30 May at the Casa de Vidro and SESC Pompeia.

Casa de Vidro is at Rua General Almério de Moura 200, Morumbi (3744 9902/institutobardi.com. br). Open 11am-5pm Tue-Sun. Prices free, or R$10-$20 for a group booking with tour guide.

SESC Pompeia is at Rua Clélia 93, Pompéia (3871 7700/sescsp.org. br). Open 9am-9pm Tue-Sun. FREE

Art listings Transience Transgeométricas How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres.

Recommended institutions are marked with a .

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista behind a blank façade that the gallery sometimes uses as a canvas. Inside, in a set of spaces designed by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists, investing considerable care and effort into their careers. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/galeriavermelho.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

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Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

Write up Art by Waltercio Caldas

Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Sergio Romagnolo, Joana Vasconcelos, young British artist Jack Strange, and psychedelic rangers Assume Vivid Astro Focus are some of the many artists represented by this always interesting gallery. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Luciana Brito Galeria This elegant gallery represents 20 high-calibre artists from Brazil and abroad, including iconic

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Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

Geometric blocks in black, white and blood red, overlaid on images of transgender bodies, comprise the series ‘transgeométricas’. The collective behind the works, AVAF (Assume Vivid Astro Focus), made up of the artists Eli Sudbrack and Christophe Hamaide Pierson, have been using trans people as symbols of change for years, and here that change represents São Paulo’s abrupt verticalisation, leaving neighbourhoods all but unrecognisable from one decade to the next, in an apparent planning vacuum. The geometric shapes that overlay the portraits pay homage to the city’s Constructivist past.

Another series of works in the show, ‘Mesas Calçada’, is a collaboration with the Turkish artist Yusuf Etiman that remixes SP’s classic paving-stone design, whose monochrome geometric shapes echo the shape of the state of São Paulo. The resulting patterns have been embedded on a series of tables that are stacked inside the gallery – and one of the images also features on the cover of this issue of Time Out São Paulo, tying in neatly with our ‘Changing places’ cover story.

‘Transgeométricas’ is part of the exhibition ‘alisabel viril apagão fenomenal’, at Casa Triângulo until 4 May. See gallery listings.

names like Marina Abramovic, Regina Silveira and Mônica Nador, as well as emerging artists like Pablo Lobato.

Rua Gomes de Carvalho 842, Vila Olímpia (3842 0634/lucianabritogaleria. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Oscar Cruz Oscar Cruz has been dealing in contemporary art in São Paulo for over 15 years, and takes part in the major international art fairs. The large gallery space, split over two floors, focuses on the work of contemporary Brazilian artists, covering a broad range of media from painting and photography to installation and sculpture. Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 526, Itaim Bibi (3167 0833/ galeriaoscarcruz.com.br). Open 11am7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Arte Aplicada Galeria Brazilian contemporary artists using techniques including painting, drawing, sculpture and photography, are represented at this glass-fronted two-storey gallery. Rua Haddock Lobo 1406, Jardim Paulista (3064 4725/arteaplicada.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Cartel011 This long, thin, two-floor building in Pinheiros is a multi-purpose space that contains a stylish shop as well as a salon, a restaurant out back (Feed Food), and the gallery space. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (3081 4171/ cartel011.com.br). Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. The new building features a striking facade made of exposed bricks placed sideways-on to create a surface with hundreds of perforations. Inside, a classic white-cube exhibition space leads up to a large office the gallery plans to share with other creatives, as a kind of hub. And right on top, a terrace, looking out over the treetops of leafy Jardins.

Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/emmathomas.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat.

Jardins AM Galeria Horizonte After seven years located in Vila Nova Conceição, this gallery moved to a new larger space in Jardins in 2011. The curator, Angela Martins, represents a roster of artists both in São Paulo and at AM Galeria’s other branch in Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais.

Rua Estados Unidos 273, Jardim Paulista (3044 1057/galeriahorizonte.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. No credit cards.

Art & Museums

installation by the veteran conceptual artist Cildo Meireles, the smell of coffee combines with an archive recording of Pietro Bardi asking his radical socialist wife to make a coffee, recreating the moments when Pietro sought to defuse (or possibly inflame) a looming political argument with a request for refreshments.

For this final phase of the show, similar highlights include new work by Olafur Eliasson, conceptual art by Paulo Nazareth, found (or seemingly found) objects

by Jonathas de Andrade, and the subtly mind-bending architectural interventions of Renata Lucas.

Meanwhile, at the more spacious SESC Pompeia, installations by Ernesto Neto and Dan Graham feature alongside a set of video artworks: don’t miss the spellbinding Feitiço – the name means ‘spell’ – by Pedro Barateiro, which meshes found footage of theatre productions in São Paulo and Lisbon with images of the Casa de Vidro.

If you’ve been hankering for a look inside the Casa itself, our advice would be to seize the moment, because once this show closes, the house reverts to admission by prior arrangement only. You’ll still need a little patience: during the exhibition, limited space means visitors are restricted to ten inside at any time.

Still, these are small prices to pay for a chance to see the worlds of art, architecture and urbanism laid one over the other until they become as translucent as Bo Bardi’s panes of glass, flooded with light.

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Perdizes & Pompéia Gravura Brasileira Opened in 1998

by Alberto Fuks and Eduardo Besen to showcase classic and contemporary print art, Gravura Brasileira has since staged more than 100 exhibitions from its Perdizes headquarters. This is one of precious few print-only galleries in Brazil, and its exhibitions are both reliably interesting and of consistently high artistic quality. Rua Dr Franco da Rocha 61, Perdizes (3624 0301/ gravurabrasileira.com). Open 11am-6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat.

Pinheiros Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. In early 2013, it closed its much loved original gallery space at Rua João Moura, concentrating its activities at what was formerly its second location. It has played a significant role in promoting the city’s street art, and if you find livewire curator/co-owner Baixo Ribeiro on the premises and up for a chat, you’ll come out wiser on this and many other art-related subjects. Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 2365/ choquecultural.com.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat. Galeria Estação Gallery director Vilma Eid’s focus is on the cream of Brazilian popular art, displaying a collection of

In focus Cao Guimarães

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Art & Museums

Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s.

With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as midcareer artists such as Alexandre da Cunha.

Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/galerialuisastrina. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Mônica Filgueiras & Eduardo Machado Mônica Filgueiras, who sadly passed away in 2011, was a highly respected veteran of the São Paulo art scene. She had only recently teamed up with the gallerist Eduardo Machado to form this new joint gallery, featuring edgy street art by the likes of Ozi, Bugre and Gejo as well as works by the Modernist Italian-Brazilian sculptor Victor Brecheret, whose immense Monumento às Bandeiras statue sits in front of Parque do Ibirapuera. Rua Bela Cintra 1533, Jardim Paulista (3081 9492). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2.pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Nara Roesler With her son Alexandre running online gallery Galeria Motor (galeriamotor.com.br), and herself a busy and experienced player, Nara Roesler is an influential name in São Paulo art. Japanese ‘old school contemporary’ painter Tomie Ohtake, founder of the institute that bears her name (see Major institutions), is just one of her artists, as are fashionable young painters like Rodolpho Parigi.

Avenida Europa 655, Jardim Europa (3063 2344/nararoesler.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards..

Taking over three floors of Itaú Cultural, ‘Ver é uma Fabula’ (‘Seeing is a fable’) is a major exhibition of works by Cao Guimarães, tracing the development of the artist’s career in video, photography and film – eight of his features will also be screened. The exhibition name hints at the artist’s narratives, left deliberately open for viewers to imagine their own endings. Head to the third floor to see his photo series ‘Gambiarra’ – the Portuguese word for an improvised solution – captured beautifully in images like this one, with a length of coloured wire giving spectacles a new lease of life.‘Ver é uma Fábula’ is at Itaú Cultural until 1 June. See listings. fascinating works, including sculpture and painting by artists such as José Antônio da Silva and Nuca. Books and local crafts are also for sale. Rua Ferreira de Araújo 625, Pinheiros (3813 7253/ galeriaestacao.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards.

Smith Galeria A new arrival on the Pinheiros art circuit, Smith aims to resist the exclusive bent of swankier galleries and make itself a haven for art mavens and curious dabblers alike. High ceilings and a spacious back yard make it ideal for installations and larger works.

New exhibitions open five-weekly, but whatever the show of the moment, Smith dedicates its entire space to it – that’s three storeys of arty goodness. Rua João Moura 417/419, Pinheiros (3259 7513/ smithgaleria.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Galeria Virgílio The airy exhibition spaces and pleasant cafe of Galeria Virgílio are a hangout for the Pinheiros art crowd, and the place is unashamedly intellectual. So don’t be surprised to find a social-media journalism course or a jazz show by multi-instrumentalist Renato Anesi happening alongside exhibitions by home-grown artists like Diego Belda, who is also the chef and owner of Rothko restaurant. Rua Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto 426, Pinheiros (2373 2999/galeriavirgilio. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Santa Cecília Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has also developed particularly good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Her gallery occupies a large, airy, industrial space in the rising art district of Barra Funda, where it has the floor space for large installations. Rua Barra Funda 216, Barra Funda (3666 6489/barogaleria. com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena DOC Galeria This dynamic little gallery upstairs from Post 6 bar (the gallery owner is also a partner in the lively night spot) specialises in photography, running the Mostra, Vila Madalena’s annual photo festival, as well as a series of workshops and events. Highly recommended. Rua Aspicuelta 662, Vila Madalena (3938 0130/docgaleria.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat..

Central Galeria One of the newer players on São Paulo’s contemporary art scene, this gallery opened its doors on the ground floor of a residential building on

bustling Avenida Rebouças at the end of 2010, moving on in 2012 to team up with Galeria Ímpar in a larger space in Vila Madalena. With a mission to discover some of the talent emerging from São Paulo’s art schools, the gallery represents a varied line of young artists. Look out for the unique, compelling self-portraits by Nino Cais – one of the hits at the 2012 São Paulo Bienal. Rua Mourato Coelho 751, Vila Madalena (2645 4480/centralgaleriadearte. com). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Fortes Vilaça Even an art ignoramus will feel the quality at this gallery, one of the most established Brazilian names on the international circuit. They’ve got some big names on the roster: the worldrenowned installation artist Ernesto Neto, and Beatriz Milhazes and her beautiful, colourful paintings. Look out too for the work of the always interesting Adriana Varejão. If there’s something on in particular, the Galpão (warehouse) is well worth a visit, too – but the area isn’t great, so it’s probably best to take a taxi there. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena (3032 7066/fortesvilaca.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards. Other location Galpão Fortes Vilaça (warehouse), Rua James Holland 71, Barra Funda (3392 3942). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri.; 10am6pm Sat. No credit cards..

Galeria Millan André Millan is a mainstay of the Brazilian contemporary art market, and represents, amongst others, the artists Tatiana Blass, Artur Barrio and Ana Maria Maiolino. Millan also shows photographers like Bob Wolfenson, and Miguel Rio Branco, one of the godfathers of contemporary Brazilian photography.

Rua Fradique Coutinho 1360, Vila Madalena (3031 6007/galeriamillan.com. br).Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Transversal A new Vila Madalena outpost for the two-year-old Barra Funda gallery, this space is double the size of the original, at 400m2. Swing by to check it out, and combine it with a trip to the nearby galleries Fortes Vilaça and Galeria Millan. The older space will only be used for occasional exhibitions and courses and also as the ‘acervo’ – the back room; so call to check before heading to Barra Funda. Rua Fidalga 545, Vila Madalena (3392 5287/galeriatransversal.com.br).

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-6pm Sat. Other location Rua do Bosque 206, Barra Funda (3392 5287). Open 11am8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat.

Vila Mariana White Cube São Paulo It’s one of the first major international galleries to arrive in São Paulo – but we’re wagering it won’t be the last. Opened in December 2012, London’s White Cube gallery kicked off with a solo show by one of its Brit Art stars, Tracey Emin. It also represents Antony Gormley, love-him-or-hate-him art bad boy Damien Hirst, and a huge list of major international talent, some of whom are already jockeying for a show in SP. As well as bringing artists from its current roster to show in SP, the gallery will be showing Brazilian artists at its new, immense London space in Bermondsey, and possibly even in its Hong Kong branch. Rua Agostinho Rodrigues Filho 550, Vila Mariana (whitecube.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat.

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Museums & cultural centres

Art & Museums

Caixa Cultural Owned by the Caixa and Brazilian art in South America – even Econômica Federal bank, this gallery if only around 500 of the museum’s 7,000 contains 2,000 artworks including works are on show at any given time. paintings, sculptures and carvings by Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/ generations of Brazilian artists. Praça da masp.art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Sé 111, Centro (3321 4400/caixacultural.

Open 10am-6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm com.br) Open 9am-9pm Tue-Sun.w Thu; 10am-6pm Fri-Sun (ticket office Fundação Ema Gordon Klabin An open until half an hour before closing). eclectic, personal mix of exhibits reflects Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free collector Ema Klabin’s interests over to all Tue. Museu do Futebol The fascinating four decades. Pre-Columbian, European, Museu do Futebol uses modern Asian and African art, decorative arts, technology to tell the story of Brazilian and silverware adorn this beautiful football. A large collection of video, house, itself a work of art. Guided tours photos and documents are on show, as are take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays and interactive games and events to stimulate Fridays at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm, and on young supporters into learning the Saturdays at 10am, 11.30am and 2pm, facts behind their favourite sport. Praça and they can be booked by phone or Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/ by completing a form on the museum’s museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10amwebsite. The museum also stages regular 6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 musical events. Rua Portugal 43, Jardim reductions; free under-7s and Thu. Europa (3062 5245/emaklabin.org.br).

Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) Open 2-4pm Tue, Thur-Fri; 10am-2pm A makeover in 2008 revitalised this stark, Sat, public holidays. Admission R$10; concrete building, which is home to a R$5 reductions.

Itaú Cultural This bank-owned collection of 30,000 items in the shape cultural centre stages some of the best of photos, films and records. It also shows in town, from standout fine art to stages innovative temporary exhibitions regular exhibitions on all sorts of aspects and retrospectives, as well as the very of culture, including digital. It also has a popular Green Sunset series of parties, library containing audiovisual research monthly on Saturday afternoons. Avenida material as well as more traditional Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/ sources. Avenida Paulista 149, Bela Vista mis-sp.org.br). Open noon-9pm Tue(2168 1777/itaucultural.org.br). Open Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Admission R$4; 9am-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. R$2 reductions; seniors free. No credit Matilha Cultural A socially-minded cards.

Museu Lasar Segall A jewel in São cultural space in the Centro, Matilha Paulo’s roster of museums, the Museu Cultural organises events, courses, film Lasar Segall is the former home of screenings and art exhibitions, Lithuanian-born Modernist artist which are generally free.

Lasar Segall, who moved to With the environment in Brazil in 1923. Established mind, Matilha was built in 1967, ten years after using certified and reclaimed Segall’s death, the multiwood and serves vegetarian use space encompasses a food in its café. Rua Rego ta s re printing workshop, small Freitas 542, (3256 2636/ Café Floafés cinema, café and temporary matilhacultural.com.br).

See C exhibition spaces as well as Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; a semi-permanent collection noon-10pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. of Segall’s paintings, sculpture and Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) furniture, created throughout his career.

Founded in 1948 and based on New Rua Berta 111, Vila Mariana (2159 York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), 0400/museusegall.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila the MAM contains over 5,000 works by Mariana. Open 11am-7pm Mon,Wedacclaimed Brazilian artists of the likes Sun. of Regina Silveira, Cildo Meireles and Pivô Set in the heart of one of SP’s Leonilson. Its mission is to showcase most iconic buildings – Oscar Niemeyer’s contemporary and modern Brazilian Copan – this sprawling space opened art, and it also has a 6,000-square-metre during the Bienal in 2012. Run by an sculpture garden. Rua Pedro Álvares energetic bunch of arty types, the huge Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5085 1300/ gallery kicked off with an ambitious, mam.org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. brilliantly realised group show that took Admission R$5.50; free reductions. Free over most of its many spaces, and has to all Sun. Museu de Arte de São Paulo since also been a venue for performance (MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum pieces. A mission to interact with some of is an imposing red concrete-and-glass SP’s other galleries and institutions has box suspended on four concrete columns, so far resulted in shows at Pivô by the which dominates Avenida Paulista. hip young galleries Emma Thomas and Inside, it’s the Greatest Hits of World Mendes Wood. If there’s something on at Art, Vols. 1-10. There’s a Picasso, a Pivô, don’t miss the chance to get inside Gainsborough, a Hieronymus Bosch and a this amazing building. Avenida Ipiranga Goya, as well as big Brazilian names like 200, loja 48, Centro (3255 8703/pivo.

Cândido Portinari and Anita Malfatti. In org.br). Metrô 1, República. Open noonshort, it’s the best collection of European 6pm Tue-Sat.

IN THE AREA

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Film

fox filmes/press image

Interview: Danny Boyle

A spectacle Director Danny Boyle poses for a photograph at the premiere of his latest film, ‘Trance’

The director talks to Dave Calhoun about his latest film, Trance Last year, it took a smiley bloke from Lancashire to wipe the grimace clean off London’s face. Danny Boyle was in charge of the national anti-depressant that was the 2012 Olympic opening ceremony. He’s the film and theatre director best known for movies including Trainspotting and 28 Days Later, and for winning an Oscar in 2009 for Slumdog Millionaire. But for one night only, this 56-year-old was the nation’s entertainer-in-chief. We feared watching through our fingers at X Factor-style theatrics and a guest appearance from Status Quo. Instead, Boyle gave the world dancing nurses, flaming rings and an enormous clip of the lesbian snog from Brookside.

He became a national hero overnight.

Seven months after the ceremony, Boyle is still hard at work: he has a new film, Trance [see review, right], in cinemas next month. When we meet to talk about Trance, he’s wearing a black suit with a smart

shirt and tie. He had to be just as dapper when he turned up at Buckingham Palace last summer to film the Queen and Daniel Craig.

Was Her Maj a pro under his direction? ‘She was great. She deals with cameras all the time, it’s part of her life. She’s sharp. She astutely judged that the Jubilee would be very formal and this could be less

directing something on the scale of a Bond movie? ‘I love people like Christopher Nolan and Ridley Scott, and I love watching their films. But I like a smaller crew. I like it being a little more guerrilla, which you can only get with a small team.’

His film debut, Shallow Grave, made in 1994 after more than a decade working as a director and

‘We’d have bizarre days where you’re blowing someone’s head off on set, then go into a meeting about the Queen’ so. But it was insane trying to get them in the same room. There was a feeling that we should shoot them separately, but I was like, “No, we’ve got to do them together!” She also wanted some of her people to be in it – like this guy Paul, who’s a footman and has been with her for donkey’s years. I thought: That’s cool.’

Now that Boyle has marshalled such a huge project as the Olympic opening ceremony and had 007 perform for him, can he see himself

producer in TV, and as a director for the Royal Court and RSC in theatre, was such a guerrilla film.

Trainspotting followed in 1996, and since then he’s applied his zesty, loud and frenetic style to the zombie movie 28 Days Later, sci-fi flick Sunshine, and souped-up fantasy-realist film Slumdog Millionaire.

The new film, Trance, is a Londonset psychological mind game of a movie that sees James McAvoy as a slick employee at a high-class

auction house who’s dragged into a fast-moving conspiracy when he’s hit over the head during a robbery at work and loses his memory. The thieves – including a vicious Vincent Cassel – need him to remember where a painting is hidden – which in turn leads to hypnotherapy sessions with Rosario Dawson, and plunges the film into a tricksy storytelling vortex.

It’s not easy to write about a film that hinges on some key twists (Boyle sent me a letter before a screening, asking me to help him ‘protect the film’s most intimate secret’). When he talks about it, he mentions films like Memento and Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind – films unafraid to take a story somewhere a bit head-scratchy. It’s very much a Boyle film: choppy, fast, inventive, with pumping music and colourful performances. It’s also violent: there’s a scene where we see a bullet blowing apart someone’s head in slow motion and in close-up.

Boyle says Trance emerged from the dark side of the Olympic dream.

‘It’s what happens to your brain when you’re trying to do the Olympics,’ he laughs, ‘the savagery you’re not allowed to depict when you’ve got the job of being family-orientated and celebratory!’ He shot it right in the middle of planning the opening ceremony. ‘On paper, the Olympics was two years’ work, and if you want to sit around a table for two years, you can. But it will drive you insane.’

Time off for other projects took a bit of the pressure off: ‘We negotiated two sabbaticals, one for Frankenstein at the National Theatre, and the other to shoot Trance. They were the antithesis to the celebratory nature of the Olympics. We’d have bizarre days where you’re blowing someone’s head off on set, and then you’d go into a meeting about the Queen.’

Somehow Boyle pulled it off, and along with Skyfall director Sam Mendes, he made 2012 the year when British film directors became household names. ‘One of the things people think we’re good at – and fucking cool at – in this country is culture.’ And no one is more responsible for that at the moment than Danny Boyle.

Trance (Em Transe) is released on 3 May.

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Film of the month Dir. Tata Amaral, Brazil, 2011. Denise Fraga and César Troncoso. 82 mins.

Writing on the wall Denise Fraga (Vera) encounters an unexpected guest

Troncoso seems an odd choice for the role.

Hoje is both powerful and delicate, exemplifying Amaral’s cinematography, which includes Um Céu de Estrelas (1996), Através da Janela (2000) and Antônia (2006).

Set entirely in one location – Vera’s apartment – Hoje has

a special type of poetic feel.

Occasionally, however, its slow theatrical pace and the pareddown, no-frills look can feel a bit strained. But for fans of slower films, Hoje is an easy-to-digest delicacy. Marina Monzillo

Tthat it’s his sleekest outing yet is at least as mind-boggling as the film in question, Trance, imagines itself to be. It’s a circuitous, psychosexy heist thriller, the engagingly silly plot mechanics of which are tricky to describe without giving the game away.

This much you can know: sharp-suited London auctioneer Simon (James McAvoy) is the inside man for art thief Franck (Vincent Cassel). When his planned double-cross during the theft of a prized Goya goes awry, Simon loses all memory of where he’s hidden the painting. Enter alluring hypnotherapist Elizabeth (Rosario Dawson), who may or may not know more than she’s letting on.

Adapted from Joe Ahearne’s 2001 TV film, it’s essentially ‘Eternal Inception of the Spellbound Mind’, though its shallow mind games are strictly disconnected from the heart.

Like a jigsaw puzzle of a priceless painting, the fun lies in putting it together, and not in contemplating the fractured final product.

Still, after Slumdog Millionaire and the stifling 127 Hours, it’s a kick to see Boyle back in licketysplit genre mode. Reunited with screenwriter John Hodge, and with a game, sideburned McAvoy as a Ewan McGregor proxy, this is the kind of film he might have made in the ’90s, only flashing all the technical elan he’s gained since then. Due respect to McAvoy, but it’s cinematographer Anthony Dod Mantle and his gorgeous, radioactive vision of our city that are the true stars here. It’s a different London celebration to the one Boyle directed last summer, but no less enticing. Guy Lodge

Film

In 1995, under Law 9.140, those persecuted for being involved in political activities during Brazil’s dictatorship (1964-1985) were granted compensation. The law also allowed for the families of those who disappeared after being taken into government custody between 1961 and 1979, to have their loved ones officially recorded as deceased. In São Paulo director Tata Amaral’s latest film, Hoje, the lead character Vera is one of those indemnified family members.

As the widow of one of the disappeared, Vera uses her husband’s compensation to buy an old apartment in downtown São Paulo. This is where we find her, eager to resume a ‘normal’ life, dealing with practicalities like organising her move.

When a man suddenly appears in her apartment, his identity and relationship to Vera are a mystery until it is revealed gradually that he is her husband Luis, who has reappeared

after an almost 30 year-long absence.

Hoje is not a drama-filled soap opera. There are no jawdropping theatrics during the surprise reunion. The emotions are intense but subtle – words that aptly describe Tata Amaral’s work.

The remainder of the movie is made up of dialogue, memories, sexual tension, and catharsis.

The obvious questions are never answered: where had Luis been all this time? How did he find her at the apartment? Amaral creates doubt as to whether Luis has in fact returned, or if his appearance is some sort of psychological manifestation.

Projected images of newspaper clippings on walls add to the narrative layers of the film. The love between Vera and Luis is touching, beautifully portrayed by the talented Denise Fraga.

However, in a movie largely centred around the dialogue between two characters, native Portuguese speakers may find the Uruguayan actor César Troncoso’s performance somewhat jarring. Indeed, a non-native speaker like

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Hoje

Hoje is released on 19 April.

PORTUGUESE

Reviews Trance That Danny Boyle directed a film in the midst of preparations for last year’s mammoth Olympic opening ceremony is impressive enough.

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Dir. Danny Boyle, UK, 2013. James McAvoy, Rosario Dawson, Vincent Cassel. 101 mins.

Guns for hire Vincent Cassel plays an art thief in the heist film ‘Trance’

Trance (Em Transe) is released on 3 May.

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To The Wonder

Illicit embrace Affleck and McAdams are old friends having an affair

Film

Dir. Terrence Malick, USA, 2012.

Ben Affleck, Javier Bardem, Rachel McAdams, Olga Kurylenko. 113 min.

Terrence Malick’s To the Wonder is another spiritual inquiry launched by this erratic poet of US cinema from the bosom of an intimate story: here, it’s the troubled

romance between Marina (Olga Kurylenko) and Neil (Ben Affleck), an American in France. Unlike 2011’s The Tree of Life, this film may not lunge back to the dawn of time for its answers, but it guns for similar Big Questions. Its feet may hover marginally closer to the ground than its predecessor, but it’s also a more aloof, hollow work.

Whispery voiceovers, magic-hour photography, travelling cameras, short scenes and quick cuts dominate again and offer a fluid, loose sense of time and place. But the thrust of To the Wonder is roughly chronological.

Neil and Marina’s romance begins in Paris, with an early, enchanting visit to Mont Saint-Michel in Normandy. The pair move to the Oklahoma suburbs with Marina’s young daughter where Neil works as a construction engineer. But the couple have trouble settling. Marina moves away; Neil has an affair with an old friend (Rachel McAdams); Marina returns, but questions of commitment and contentment continue to dog their relationship.

There’s barely any dialogue. Most talk emerges in voiceovers by Neil, Marina and a priest, Father Quintana, played by Javier Bardem. Quintana offers confused Marina some succour, but more crucially his presence helps Malick to frame his debate – already dominated by an interpretation of love as a Garden of Eden awaiting corruption and ideas of good, evil and temptation. If The Tree of Life felt like a deeply spiritual film with nods to the Christianity of its

characters, To the Wonder operates more clearly within the theatre of Christian thought.

Big events are either buried or over quickly, and repetition and an over-familiarity of Malick’s visual tics and style begin to grate. Neil and Marina’s love is characterised by endless skipping through gardens, fields or parks. Endless skies, sunsets seen through trees, hands running through corn fields and spray from garden hoses all begin to feel like parody.

A sterile sheen does the film no favours either: interiors, exteriors, clothes and nature alike feel overly groomed and too neat and clean to be real. As if employing a counterpoint to this glossiness, Malick presents a series of grizzled local characters in Oklahoma and yet their presence jars against the Hollywood finesse and good-looks of his main cast. There’s a phoniness to the film’s people and places that keeps us at a fatal distance from the big ideas with which To the Wonder seeks to engage us. Dave Calhoun To The Wonder (Amor Pleno) is released on 12 April.

2 Days in New York

No, you’ve not got déjà vu. The title might look familiar. But this is French actress and filmmaker Julie Delpy taking to heart the line that directors make the same film over and over. In 2007, Delpy wrote and directed the spiky romcom 2 Days in Paris, starring as a photographer, Marion, who takes her uptight New Yorker boyfriend back to Paris to meet the parents. Five years later, and Delpy has reversed the roles: la famille is in New York to meet the boyfriend (a new one, Mingus, played by Chris Rock). And it’s more of the same, with diminishing returns: less bite and more screwballish, madcap farce.

This time, Marion and journalist Mingus are living the Manhattan dream in a loft with kids (each has a child from a previous relationship).

All hell breaks loose with the French invasion: Marion’s dad (Albert Delpy, the director’s father), who is busted by customs for having sausages taped to his chest; her nymphomaniac sister Rose (Alexia

california filmes filmes/press image

Dir. Julie Delpy, France, Germany, Belgium, 2012. Vincent Gallo, Chris Rock, Julie Delpy. 96 mins.

Role reversal Julie Delpy’s latest film carries on with the director’s theme of cross-cultural interaction

Landeau); and Rose’s stoner boyfriend (Alexandre Nahon). Delpy has a sharp eye for cross-cultural comic clangers. Mingus introduces Marion’s dad to an Obama staffer.

‘Socialist!’ the old leftie cheers. The staffer backs away horrified.

In the last film, Marion was a Woody Allen-ish kook. Here, she’s borderline certifiable within five

minutes of her family landing at JFK (although if Woody is watching, he might get ideas from seeing Rock beautifully pull off Mingus’s neuroses). What’s missing are the sharp edges of 2 Days in Paris, a film that was a riff of sorts on the pair of movies Delpy made with Richard Linklater (Before Sunrise, Before Sunset). Falling in love is the

easy bit, was her acid message – try staying together. Serial monogamy as a fact of modern life felt like a daring direction for a romcom.

Taking pot shots at the French does not – those frisky, sex-mad soap dodgers! Cath Clarke 2 Days in New York (2 Dias em Nova York) is released on 26 April.

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Main cinemas

of films, videos, photos and musical compositions, as well as innovative temporary exhibitions and concerts.

Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br). 2 screens, 66177 seats. Tickets R$ 4; R$2 reductions.

Reserva Cultural This pleasant spot has a small café and a restaurant-bar with large windows through which you can watch the comings and goings along the city’s main avenue. Avenida Paulista 900, Bela Vista (3287 3529/ reservacultural.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro or Trianon-Masp. 4 screens, 110-190 seats. Tickets R$17-$24; R$8.50-$12 reductions.

Box fresh Brazilian DVD

How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues.

Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

Consolação & Higienópolis Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca Despite being located in a shopping centre, this cinema has a welcoming ambience. Mainstream movies and arthouse titles screen daily.

Rua Frei Caneca 569, 3rd floor, Frei Caneca Shopping, Consolação (3472 2365/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 9 screens, 103-268 seats.

Tickets R$16-$22; 3D film tickets R$26-$28.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations, with some screens available for 3D films.

Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa (3024 3851/ cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18-$24; R$9-$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28.

Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens,

Brazilian film might be best known for a wave of gritty films over recent decades, of the likes of 2002’s Cidade de Deus, but there’s more to it than just explosive social commentary. In the comedy De Pernas Pro Ar 2 – a sequel to the 2010 box-office hit by the same name – we catch up with Alice (Ingrid Guimarães), whose success in the sex shop industry has grown, along with her workaholism. Though under doctor’s orders to destress, with the international expansion of her company underway Alice has too much at stake to slow down, and makes her way to NYC, where, as in the first film, she must conceal her work from her family. De Pernas Pro Ar 2 is released on DVD on 24 April.

60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37; R$12,50-$18,50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues.

It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE CINUSP Paulo Emílio A small cinema at the heart of the enormous University of São Paulo campus, CINUSP shows free films to an audience of movie buffs.

Rua do Anfiteatro 181, Colméia Favo 4, Cidade Universitária, Butantã (3091 3540/usp.br/cinusp). 1 screen, 100 seats.

FREE

Jardins Playarte Bristol Located on the top

floors of Shopping Center 3. Playarte Bristol has large screening rooms (more long than wide), and is a good option of where to spend a couple hours while waiting for traffic on Avenida Paulista to let up. Screens mainstream films. Shopping Center 3, Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3289 0509/ playartepictures.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 7 screens, 115-444 seats.

Tickets R$19-$23; R$9,50-$11.50 reductions.

Cine Livraria Cultura Next door to the excellent Livraria Cultura bookshop, inside a mammoth commercial building, this venue is part of a vibrant block on Avenida Paulista. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats.

Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions.

CineSESC This charming cinema on Rua Augusta has a bar at the back, separated by a glass screen, where you can enjoy a drink as you watch a film. Rua Augusta 2075, Consolação (3087 0500/sescsp.org.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Tickets R$1-$4.

Museu da Imagem e do Som This cinema is located inside the MIS – the Museum of Image and Sound.

The stark, concrete, white building in Jardins houses an impressive archive

Kinoplex Itaim Housed in the Brascan complex, this cinema is located near a food court with a great variety of restaurants as well as a number of bars for longer nights out. Screens have comfortable armchairs with adjustable head and armrests. Screens mainstream films. Rua Joaquim Floriano 466, Itaim Bibi (3131 2004/kinoplex.com.br). 6 screens, 155-312 seats. Tickets R$10$26; R$5-$13 reductions; 3D films R$28$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Centro Cultural São Paulo – Sala Lima Barreto This intimate cinema is part of a large, layered, steel and concrete building that also houses theatre, music and dance programmes, and art exhibitions. Established in 1982, the Centro Cultural was one of the city’s first multidisciplinary cultural centres, and its library, the second largest in the city, has excellent art and Braille sections. The cinema has a second screen with an additional 100 seats as of January 2013. Screenings are at a token cost (R$1). Rua Vergueiro 1000, Paraíso (3397 4054/centrocultural.sp.gov. br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE Sala Cinemateca This former municipal slaughterhouse, a beautiful brick building with a garden in its interior patio, houses an important Brazilian film archive and an arthouse cinema that hosts events from the Mostra Internacional de Cinema de São Paulo, the city’s international film festival.

Largo Senador Raul Cardoso 207, Vila Mariana (3512 6111/cinemateca.gov.br).

2 screens, 108-210 seats. Tickets R$8; R$4 reductions.

Film

Cine Olido This wonderful little cinema forms part of a cultural complex, along with a theatre, dance space and photo gallery, that’s housed in a classic downtown building. Cine Olido has eclectic year-round programming, often hosting film festivals related to topical national and international cultural events. Avenida São João 473, Centro (3397 0171/galeriaolido.sp.gov.br).

Metrô 3, República. 1 screen, 236 seats.

Tickets R$1; R$0.50 reductions. No credit cards.

Playarte Marabá Open from 1944 to 2007, this theatre reopened its doors in 2009. It was once known as the only survivor of the ‘cinelândia’ – downtown area of São Paulo that housed many theatres in the mid 20th century. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Ipiranga 757, Centro (5053 6881/playartepictures.com. br). Metrô 3, República. 5 screens, 122430 seats. Tickets R$4,50-$19.

mariana vianna/PRESS IMAGE

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cinemark Cidade Jardim Has gigantic screens, digital sound and projection, and love seats. Also includes two screens in the Cinemark Premier style, reclineable leather armchairs with foot rests, a lounge area, wine list, and special popcorn seasoned with flavoured oils – all with a high price tag. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Cidade Jardim (3552 1800/cinemark.com.br).

7 screens, 72-274 seats. Tickets R$22$53; R$11-$26,50 reductions; 3D films R$28-$57; R$14-$.28,50 reductions.

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Gay & Lesbian Listings

What a drag Terça Insana

How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

Bars ‘Bar da Lôca’ The always-crowded ‘bar on the corner’ is actually the neighbourhood bakery-cum-watering hole officially named Bar Tom Zé. Its proximity to nearby club A Lôca turned it into the club’s unofficial waiting room. The crowd is mixed, sheltering twinks, bears and closet cases. It’s often standing-room only.

Rua Frei Caneca 106, Consolação (3256 1946). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Farol Madalena This venue is a triple threat: bar, restaurant and concert hall. It serves a full menu of traditional petiscos (appetisers) and dishes named after Brazilian beaches, while offering a change of pace from the typical club with live, contemporary Brazilian music.

It’s a particularly popular destination with the ladies. Rua Jericó 179, Vila Madalena (3032 6470/farolmadalena. com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 7pm-1am Wed, Thu; 7pm-2am Fri, Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$12; cover R$10$15;

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Clubs

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This PRESS IMAGE

Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, eclectic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies.

One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings. The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35.

Club Yacht The maritime theme at this gorgeous Bixiga club has fished aesthetic inspiration from the nautical stripes of Jean Paul Gaultier, and the tattoos of Sailor Jerry, with references to Atlantis and Yemanja thrown in for good measure. The airy space, with a large dancefloor flanked by two mezzanines, is decked out with blue walls and mirrored bars, and topped by a high ceiling, encrusted with shells and flashing lights that lend something of a glam ’80s feel. Two giant palms, one inside and one in the smoking area, add a tropical touch and bartenders dressed in character, are a good way to get in the mood. Rua 13 de Maio 701, Bela Vista, (3104 7157/ clubyacht.com.br). Open 11.30pm5am Wed-Thu; midnight-5am Fri; midnight-9am Sat. Prices small bottle beer (600ml) R$8; caipirinha R$12; minimum spend R$40-120.

Danger Head downtown and prepare yourself for a hardcore experience. There’s a live, 20-minute sex show at 2am in which three couples of varying sexuality do the do. They switch places on stage, giving everyone an excellent view. The crowd is a tad rough’n’tumble, but if you go to the dark room or have a couple of extra sips, you may not even notice. Rua Rego Freitas 470, Centro (3211 0371/dangerdanceclub. blogspot.com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-6am. Admission R$18.

com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$20. BEST NIGHT Sundays.

SP’s stand-up comedy scene has a way to go before it reaches the heights of cities like New York, Chicago and Toronto; but try telling that to the weekly Terça Insana (‘Insane Tuesday’) troupe, now in its twelfth year. A new Friday edition starting in April will feature scintillating drag sensation Silvetty Montilla (above) who joins Tuesday’s lineup permanently in

May. The racy paulistana, who has been on the stand-up circuit for over 25 years, likes to get the audience involved, so choose your outfit wisely: you might find yourself sharing the stage with the queen bee. Teátro Itália, Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (2122 2474/ teatroitalia.com.br) on 12 and 19 April at 11.57pm; and Tuesdays at 9pm starting 7 May. PORTUGUESE

Espaço Muss Can’t get up to Salvador?

Head downtown to this crowded, steamy spot for a sweet taste of Afro-Brazil. The tiny dancefloor is packed wall-to-wall with men jamming to live samba and DJ spun axé, hip hop and funk carioca. Rua Bento Freitas 66, República (3361 4160/ espacomuss.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open 8pm-late Wed; 9pm-late Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$15.

Glória This club used to be a church, but on Fridays it’s fashionista Sin City. It attracts classy crowds thanks to its opulent

decor, with beds, mirrors and champagne bars. Expect a flamboyant crowd. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/ clubegloria.com.br). Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Admission R$10-$50.

Tunnel With exuberant music in the main room and vintage pop on the lower level, this party is full of young boys new to the gay scene. It gets a bit crowded, but there’s always the restaurant upstairs for a break and a snack. Don’t get too drunk, though: the place is full of stairs. Rua dos Ingleses 355, Bela Vista (3285 0246/tunnel.

lively café-cum-bar, recently relocated to a larger space with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. The tasty mojito is a good way to get in the mood. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/freycafe.com.br). Open 4pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15.

SHOP Acessórios Arco Íris A group of jewellery designers, focusing on bringing quality, inexpensive jewellery and accessories to the LGBT market, launched this amply stocked emporium.

Badges, necklaces, bracelets, T-shirts, belts, keyrings, underwear and swimsuits, all emblazoned with the rainbow flag, rainbow flag, can be found at their virtual and physical locations.

Rua Vitória 833, República (3337 3768/ acessoriosarcoiris.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; 4pm-10pm Sun. SHOP Shopping Center 3 Located near the region’s most interesting street, Rua Augusta, this modern shopping mall isn’t as cruisy as Frei Caneca, but it isn’t too far behind. Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3285 2458/shoppingcenter3. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação Open 10am-10pm daily.

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Music & Nightlife Albums

Ziggy Marley

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Suede

Bloodsports (Warner Music Group)

Son rise Ziggy Marley, the Grammy-award-winning musician has made five solo albums

Ziggy Marley speaks to Stuart Holmes about finding his own voice within the Marley legacy, and his hopes for his children’s musical future When your father is – let’s face it – a music icon, it can’t be easy to go out on your own. But for David ‘Ziggy’ Marley, the eldest son of Bob Marley, there was no such pressure. Instead, his musical upbringing liberated him to become an accomplished artist in his own right.

‘It was a growing process,’ explains Ziggy, from his residence in Los Angeles. ‘You start out young, emulating what you see, and then grow up trying to find your own expression. Today, I have my own voice, but it can’t be separated from my father because music is naturally a part of what we [Marleys] do.’

There are inescapable comparisons to his father’s sound, both lyrically and rhythmically.

You can hear the sublimity of Bob’s signature vocal tone over the upbeat groove of Ziggy’s recent single, ‘Forward to Love’ – the song itself mirrors his father’s hit, ‘One Love/People Get Ready’. And like his father, the son digs deep in the song-writing process to find a message he wants to share. ‘I’m not so much into the beats. I’m more into the spiritual side of the music,’ he tells us. You can hear that on his 2012 album, In Concert – a collection of live performances recorded by the artist while on tour in 2012 – which he will bring to the stages of São Paulo this month.

Music undeniably flows through the veins of the Marleys, but would Ziggy encourage any of his six children to continue the legacy?

‘If it’s what they want to do, and it has a purpose, then sure. But it should be about what is true to them,’ he says.

Whether they continue the family trend or not, Ziggy firmly believes that music is crucial to a child’s upbringing, and not just for his own children, having been an official supporter of the Little Kids

Rock charity for four years. The organisation restores and revitalises music education in disadvantaged schools, which is work close to his heart. ‘Music is one of the most essential things in life,’ he vouches.

‘It is what teaches us.’

The hard-working singer has now released four solo albums, and won an impressive five Grammy awards; an accolade his father never received during the academy’s pre-reggae category days (though he was honoured with a belated Lifetime Achievement Award in 2001). But the gilded gramophones and industry acclaim don’t come close to what Ziggy considers his biggest triumph as a musician.

‘It’s the freedom that I’ve gained.

Nobody owns me, or my music,’ he says proudly. ‘This is what my father envisioned for himself, and now I am free too. That is my greatest achievement.’

Ziggy Marley plays HSBC Brasil, Rua Bragança Paulista 1281, Chácara Santo Antônio (4003 1212/ ingressorapido.com.br) 8pm on 14 April. Tickets R$75-$300.

While most hailed Suede as the sordid saviours of British indie after they emerged in 1992, some just wrote them off as glam hams with a Bowie fixation. True, they’re back only weeks after ‘the guvnor’, but even the bitterest cynic would admit they’ve defined themselves rather well.

Bloodsports is a great album, and a defiant reminder of their consistency.

Unblemished by pointless excursions into stadium rock or pop, from the bombastic guitar crunch of opening songs like ‘Snowblind’, to the deeper melancholia of ‘Faultlines’, Brett Anderson’s band remain what they always were: a mainline fix of sleazy and ruinous London glamour.

Oliver Keens

Justin Timberlake The 20/20 Experience (RCA)

Music has become smarter since JT last released an album, with the Frank Oceans and Weeknds of the world setting a higher standard for modern R&B soloists. Timberlake, and his producer Timbaland, recognise this, and while it’s not excessively minimal or modern, the album they’ve made together is both blissfully nostalgic and coolly new.

The 20/20 Experience is pure pop for grown-ups. Harriet Gibsone

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Live previews Caetano Veloso

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The Bahian MPB maestro returns to showcase his new album, Abraçaço, says Doug Gray

Caetano Veloso plays at HSBC Brasil, Rua Bragança Paulista 1281, Chácara Santo Antônio (4003 1212/ingressorapido.com.br) on 11 April, 9.30pm; 12-13 April, 10pm. Tickets R$60-$240.

The Gift Márcio Cruz talks to Portuguese pop bandleader Nuno Gonçalves ahead of his band’s tour dates in Brazil The pop music world hasn’t always been able to tell stories as inspiring as those of the Portuguese band The Gift, an indie psych-pop group that was created in 1994 by childhood friends Sónia Tavares (vocals), John Gonçalves (keyboards and bass), Miguel Ribeiro (electric guitar and bass), and the eponymous Nuno Gonçalves (keyboards), who are coming back to Brazil for the third time to play two shows at SESC Pompeia early this month.

The tight-knit quartet has released five albums to date – all under their own independent label, La Folie – and has continued to grow organically thanks in large part to the band’s main composer, Nuno Gonçalves, not to mention a couple of big breaks along the way.

Their first break came in 2005 when they went on tour with The Flaming Lips. The band won over a new wave of fans – and MTV Europe’s award for Best Portuguese Act, to boot – but despite the surge in popularity abroad, they were still relative unknowns back home.

Their second break wouldn’t come until 2009, when Sónia and Nuno took part in a tribute album for Amália Rodrigues – queen of the melancholic Portuguese musical genre, fado – finally making a name for the band in its native Portugal. Capitalising on newfound momentum yet again, they released albums in two successive years.

The first of the two, Explode (2011), rocketed all the way to the top of the charts in its first week, serving as a culmination of sorts to the band’s long journey. Less than a year later, the band released Primavera (2012), a 12-song album recorded over a mere ten days. The former has dominated their recent shows, which fill the stage with orchestral and choral arrangements accompanied by string instruments,

resonant of the work of Danish band Efterklang, Canada’s Arcade Fire and even Rufus Wainwright.

‘Since 1999, we have worked on The Gift with special care, and for that reason, our music sells, and we’ve managed to survive the great fall of multinationals. Nowadays only those who survive can be

considered victorious,’ said Nuno Gonçalves.

Having wowed the crowds in Rock in Rio 2011, victory is well within the reach for them in Brazil.

The Gift SESC Pompeia, Rua Clélia 93, Pompeia (3871 7700). 4 and 5 May, 9pm. Prices TBC.

Poras Chaudhary/press image

Music & Nightlife

Hugs abound Veloso’s latest tour focuses on Cê’s third album, ‘Abraçaço’

If the first sign of Tropicália legend Caetano Veloso forging something of a new musical path was his production of Gal Costa’s 2011 album Recanto, last year’s release of his own album, Abraçaço, confirmed that certain melancholic blues were beginning to inform his work.

The first new music from the notoriously prolific Bahian’s pen since 2009’s Zii e Zie, last year’s record completed a trilogy that Veloso says began with Cê in 2006.

If its predecessor held a heavier, rockier thread as a result of being written and test-driven largely on tour, Abraçaço is a more complex beast, flitting between influences as diverse as funk carioca and pagode, only rarely pandering to the welltrodden, more radio-friendly ends of the samba and MPB spectrum.

And as a sign of his ever-inventive nature, Veloso explained that the album’s name, Abraçaço, actually stems from online experiences. ‘I

sometimes use Abraçaço [a made-up superlative of abraço, or hug] at the end of my emails. It not only alludes to a big hug, but also a long and strong hug,’ the musician explained via Twitter.

On the accompanying tour that began last month in Rio (and sold out in a flash), the full album is sprinkled in between a set that spans five decades, as ever, bridging the impressive generation gaps invariably found in the audiences of his shows. The singer’s mellifluous vocal style may still be considerably more appealing than some of his on-stage moves; but the man is untouchable in the hearts of his devotees, and the breadth of his audience simply grows with each new decade. Aside from a trawl of the well-received new album, expect some mass singalongs as well as more austere, politically charged reflection from the back catalogue.

Colourful quartet The bilingual band wowed crowds their last time here

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Nightclubs Pop the bubbly Banda Uó

Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/ clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs and live music venues. A marks our favourite spots.

Indie & rock Cine Joia This former cinema close to the Praça da Sé is the newest jewel in the crown of São Paulo’s alternative music scene. Lovingly restored, it opened its doors in 2011, revealing to the world a diamond-shaped bar, elegantly sloping parquet floors (promoting good views, even from the back) and a top-notch video-mapping system. So far, the lineups of arty indie have been as disarming as the stunning mosaic façade outside, with the only let-down being a slightly feeble PA. Praça Carlos Gomes, 82, Liberdade (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv). Open 9pmlate, days vary – check website Metrô 1 Liberdade. Prices small bottle beer R$8; vodka with cranberry juice, R$16.

Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno, down towards the bottom end of busy Baixo Augusta. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres, like funk, get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Escape to the mezzanine for a bird’s-eye view. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/infernoclub.com. br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Samba After a lively, crowd-pleasing performance at 2012’s Planeta Terra festival, the effusive group Banda Uó brings its genre-bending brand of tecnobrega – a Brazilian form of synth-pop which translates to ‘cheesy pop’ – back to São Paulo on 13 April at Cine Joia. See listings. Doors open at 10pm (show starts at 1am). Tickets R$25-$50.

Tapas Another nonchalantly cool hangout on the Augusta strip, Tapas is a two-storey bar that looks like an upmarket squat from 1970s Amsterdam.

The ground-floor bar is small, but a long mirror behind the bar doubles up as a space-amplifier and menu, with prices written on it in white ink. DJs and live bands pack out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of ages and musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Lines can reach round the corner, so make sure to arrive early. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação (tapasclub.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 9pm5am Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-R$15.

Electronica Casa 92 Exploring the premises and its quirky decor is all part of the experience at this 1950s house-turnedclub, from the kitchen with its retro fridge and saucepan lids on the walls to the sofas and family portraits sideby-side with the DJ decks in the living room. The action is out the back though,

where media types and rich kids flit up and down the steps between two treecovered courtyards, each with its own bar and dancefloor. DJs spin everything from electro rock and ‘80s disco to house.

Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92.blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50.

D–Edge D–Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace.

The crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours.

Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Open midnight7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; cover R$20-$80.

Disco To describe Disco as an upmarket operation would be to run it down. Put it this way, Gisele Bundchen and Naomi Campbell have both been seen here. This club is a favourite with the city’s young, beautiful and rich, although it’s quite small and often beyond crowded. The highlight of the space is the glittering mirrored corridor that takes you from the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio

Bar Brahma Bar Brahma is a São Paulo institution for its line-up of live samba, MPB, choro and jazz. Avenida São João 677, República (3333 3030/barbrahmasp. com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11amlate daily. Shows 10.30pm weekdays; 2pm & 9pm Sat; 1.30pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.10-$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50-$19.20; cover R$10-$68.

Casa da Bisa Located up in Casa Verde, this house has a wide garden that is perfect for a feijoada with live samba on a sunny day. The crowd is young and, as it closes early, generally off somewhere else afterwards. Avenida Baruel 651, Casa Verde (3951 6472/casadabisaeventos.com. br). Open 2-11pm Thu-Sat. Ó do Borogodó This compact space is the best samba venue in town if you love to dance, drink and sing along from Monday through Saturday. On Mondays, Gafieira Nacional come highly recommended for their purist musical aplomb. Rua Horácio Lane 21, Pinheiros (3814 4087). Open 9pm-3am MonFri; 1pm-3am Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices cover R$15-$20; chope R$5-$6; caipirinha R$7.50-$9.50.

Pau Brasil Bar Walk into the body heat of this packed little hole-in-thewall bar, named after the pau-Brasil (Brazilwood) tree out front, and you may feel like you’ve discovered São Paulo’s most authentic Brazilian boteco. And you might even be right. This hidden gem in Pinheiros offers an excellent roda de samba (samba circle), with Tuesday’s roda featuring exclusively São Paulo samba.

Rua Inácio Pereira da Rocha 54, Vila Madalena (3816 1494). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 10pm-late Wed-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50-$6.50; caipirinha R$10; cover R$7-$10.

Music & Nightlife

Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wall-towall MPB. Stylishly decorated and with a haphazard, beatnik vibe, Alberta #3 might be small, but its three-floor split works well, with a busy dancefloor down in the basement. Rock up for happy hour (6-10pm), when admission is free, including on Saturday nights., when you may need to queue. Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm).

Bar SecretoThis isn’t exactly a bar, in spite of its name – it’s definitely a balada, or nightclub. But set in a discreet corner of Pinheiros close to the FNAC bookstore, Bar Secreto does, on the other hand, have a slightly secretive air about it. You can’t call, for example – contact is only via email.

The guest list is carefully managed by the hostess on the door; and some nights, a secret password gives entry a little extra frisson. All very well – if your name’s on the list. Once you’re in, you’ll find a candlelit room with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers and lots of paintings on the walls, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and electronic. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm5am Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$22; cover R$80.

Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has a slightly exclusive air, with high ceilings and decor inspired by 19thcentury gentlemen’s clubs. There’s no red carpet outside though, nor even a sign, so note down the address before you head out. Inside, you’ll find two dancefloors – one with a stage for the occasional live gig, while the other, separated from the first by a rotating door, feels more classically club-like, with mirrors all round and top lighting effects. But the real star of the show is the terrace, from which you can gaze over at the Catedral da Sé. For a downtown joint, and though there are nights here for most tastes, it attracts its fair share of playboys and young heiresses – the most expensive night is Thursday’s Groovelicious, when the place bumps with hip hop, soul and funk. For the gay-friendly crowd, Ultralions on Fridays is a highlight.

Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com. br). Open midnight-6am Tue, Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$30-$120.

IVAN ERICK/press image

Eclectic

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Sports & Fitness Mired in a slump, São Paulo should look east for a winning formula, says Cecília Gianesi

Perhaps they should follow the lead of their crosstown rival, Corinthians. Tite, the Corinthiano coach, has a simple solution for choosing who will play – meritocracy. Whoever is playing better will see more time on the field, regardless of tenure, stature or past performance.

Emerson Sheik, for one, was a hero during the team’s 2012 title run, but finds himself riding the pine nonetheless. Pato – the most expensive purchase in Brazilian football history – had his time there as well. But regardless of which player keeps the bench warm, no one questions Tite and the emphasis is always on the team. So is there merit in the meritocracy? The proof is in the pudding – the team has won three major titles in the last year and a half, despite a lack of superstars.

This recent success has been attributed to the Brazilian saying ‘a união faz a força’, which roughly translates to ‘united we stand’. If São Paulo wants to win, they’ll have to stop worrying about who’s on the bench and start using Corinthians as a benchmark.

Marcos Bezerra/Futura Press

In a game where only eleven players can be on the field at any one time, and substitutions regularly sway the outcome of a game, it would seem reasonable for players to expect to spend some time on the bench at one point or another. Not so, judging by the petulant behaviour of São Paulo Futebol Club’s players as of late, and the team’s woes have continued as a result.

Despite having one of the country’s most talented rosters – on paper, at least – they haven’t been able to put it together as a group.

Combining former Brazil national team standouts Luís Fabiano, Lúcio and Rogério Ceni with upand-coming stars Paulo Henrique Ganso, Jadson and Osvaldo, the team should be hitting full stride in its current Libertadores campaign.

Instead, they seem tactically lost, and tempers are starting to flare.

The first episode of the latest footie soap began when Ganso, who helped lead Santos to the 2011 Libertadores title, voiced his displeasure over being pulled early in the second half of the Palmeiras derby. Not to be outdone, Lúcio left the field without greeting his substitute in a match against Arsenal de Sarandí, and headed straight to the bus, and not the bench as is customary. Luxury coaches may be comfier than benches for 34-year-old veterans, but when asked why he’d stormed off the pitch, he replied: ‘when I left, it was 0x0’, a not-so-subtle slight at the coach’s decision, as Arsenal won 2x1.

Lúcio had to apologize publicly for his diva-esque stunt, and rode the bench for the following match as punishment. São Paulo Futebol Club Coach Ney Franco – who’s on the brink of losing support from the dressing room – threatened to relegate him to the bench permanently if it were to happen again. Finding themselves at the brink of elimination in Libertadores, São Paulo must start playing as a team, and fast.

From first class to coach Lúcio’s childish antics earned him a temporary demotion to the bench

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Setting the bench mark

The IndyCar series takes to the tarmac of Anhembi Parque’s Sambódromo, says Juan Cifrian Anhembi Parque’s Sambódromo (above) is ground zero for São Paulo’s samba schools during Carnival. But the São Paulo Indy 300, returning on 5 May for its fourth edition, brings an equally enthralling kind of pageantry to the city’s race car faithful.

Located in the Northern neighborhood of Santana, birthplace of local legend Ayrton Senna, the Indy 300’s circuit takes over the normally traffic-congested Marginal Tietê as well as the Sambódromo itself. The latter’s concrete surface is a stark contrast to the Marginal’s more suitable asphalt, adding an element of danger that even the loftiest of samba school pyrotechnicians would envy, with drivers struggling for grip at speeds of up to 300 km per hour.

Don’t rule samba out altogether though – Brazilian standout and former Dancing with the Stars (the US version of the UK’s Strictly Come Dancing) winner Hélio Castroneves’s fancy footwork may lead him to the winners’ podium.

Together with countrymen Tony Kanaan and Bia Figueiredo – one of two women drivers in the 2013 IndyCar championship – they’ll be taking aim at Australian Will Power, who has remarkably won the three previous races in São Paulo.

The São Paulo Indy 300 takes place at Anhembi Parque, Avenida Olavo Fontoura 1209, Santana (indycar.com) on 4-5 May, noon.

Open 8am. Tickets R$55-$800 (tkt1.com.br).

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The Best of Rio

fabio caffé/press image

Marvellous new museums

Open house Casa Daros will foster the arts amidst lush surroundings

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and the institution’s visitors.

The art collector Ruth Schmidheiny’s extensive collection of contemporary Latin American work occupies the top floor of the lovingly restored neoclassical mansion. Below, set around the imperial-palm-lined courtyard, an excellent art shop and Mira! restaurant ease the centre towards becoming a truly first-class venue.

The opening exhibition, ‘Cantos Cuentos Colombianos’, runs until mid-September, with curator Hans-Michel Herzog presenting 75 works by ten contemporary Colombian artists through the building’s maze-like corridors and spaces. Among the highlights are José Alejandro Restrepo’s ‘Musa Paradisiaca’, a multi-sensorial installation that uses banana bunches, videos and mirrors to depict killings that took place in Colombia’s banana plantations in the 1980s-1990s, and the compelling video ‘Re/Trato’ by Oscar Muñoz, in which the artist is in a constant battle with the disappearing face he tirelessly re-paints.

New wave Jean-Luc Godard Sonoridades The eclectic music fest brings pianist and composer Daniel Jobim, rock group Panamericana and electro bossa nova wizard Silva along for its third edition. Oi Futuro Ipanema, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 54, Ipanema (21 3201 3010/ oifuturo.org.br). Fridays and Saturdays in April. Doors open at 9pm. R$20.

The Billabong Rio Pro 2013 Kelly Slater and surfing’s top dogs storm Rio’s beaches for the Brazilian leg of the ASP World Championships.

The Billabong Rio Pro takes place at Arpoador (posto 7) and Barra da Tijuca (posto 1) beaches from 8-19 May.

The Museu de Arte do Rio (MAR) is at Praça Mauá, Centro (21 2203 1235/museumar.com.br).

Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. R$8 (free Tuesdays).

Casa Daros, Rua General Severiano 159, Botafogo (21 2275 0246/casadaros.net). Open noon8pm Wed-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. R$12.

Comida di Buteco The city’s watering holes wage battle for the public’s vote in this long-running pub grub throwdown. Comida di Buteco runs from 12 April to 12 May, see official site for list of participating bars (comidadibuteco.com.br).

Classic Even President Dilma attended MAR’s highly-anticipated opening

EXPO®GODARD: Viagens em Utopia French new wave pioneer Jean Luc Godard’s career is celebrated over three floors of exhibits, ranging from interactive installations to lectures on the influential filmmaker’s life.

Oi Futuro Flamengo, Rua Dois de Dezembro 63, Flamengo (21 3131 3060/oifuturo.org. br). Open 2pm-8pm Tue-Sun. 7 May-30 June. Free.

The Best of Rio

One was spawned when the city’s Olympic bid was a mere flicker in President Lula’s eye, while the other is the centrepiece of the mayor of Rio’s most important piece of pre-Games urban regeneration.

Regardless of origin though, Casa Daros and the MAR (Museu de Arte do Rio) are equally vital additions to the city’s art scene as the World Cup and the Olympics loom large on the horizon.

Serving as one of the two flagship museums of ‘Porto Maravilha’ – the planned commercial and cultural hub in Rio’s old port zone, still at only the most embryonic stages of its revamp – the MAR opened in March on the city’s 448th birthday, a fitting touch given its prominent role in the area’s revitalisation. The museum offers an in-depth look at the city’s development – from the vibrant watercolours of the first European visitors to the ongoing struggle between favela residents and the authorities to occupy the hillsides. But it’s the release of one of the city’s most important private collections from the confines of a local art dealer’s flat that steals the show with the expansive show, ‘O Colecionador’ (‘The Collector’).

Formed of two buildings – the architecturally eclectic Palacete Dom João VI is joined by a fifthfloor walkway to the Modernist Escola de Olhar – the MAR’s eight exhibition halls are set over four floors, with each floor focused on a different theme, and the ‘Escola’ serving as an educational centre for schoolchildren from across the city.

Meanwhile, over in Botafogo, Casa Daros seeks to actively avoid words like ‘museum’ and ‘cultural centre’, preferring to position itself as an interactive launch pad for a new strand of dialogue between artists from all over the continent,

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Events of the month

Ascom/Riotur

Rio’s art scene continues to flourish, with two longawaited museums now open, says Doug Gray

RIO F L OW Head to our

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Rio essentials

Where to stay

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Eating out

Tasteful art Bistro Riso’s pop art backdrop makes for a unique setting

Aprazível Hidden in the hills of Santa Teresa, Rio’s most charming neighbourhood, Aprazível, with its treetop tables and thatched canopies, is a restaurant like no other. Its proximity to the Tijuca Forest and the panoramic views of the city centre and Guanabara Bay make it the perfect setting for a romantic dinner. Rua Aprazível 62, Santa Teresa (21 2507 7334/aprazivel.com.br). Open noon11pm Tue-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$62-$107.

Exquisite cauliflower cheese, creamy quinoa risotto, stuffed tomatoes and arroz malouco are among the delights on offer to accompany a great burger, chateaubriand, ribs, baby beef or excellent, chunky namorado fish fillets. Rua Dias Ferreira 636, Leblon (21 2529 2329/ctboucherie.com.br).

Open noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Main courses R$32-$188.

Pizzaria Stravaganze This is Rio’s favourite pizza spot for those in the know. And those who know even more Bistro Riso The house specialities book a table on the upstairs balcony at this art-gallery-cum-bistro are of this stunning converted house, for risottos, but anyone in the market for a side-on view out over the Lagoa. a post-beach mojito will be equally The pizza selection is large but not well served at Riso. The eclectic and off-putting; the classics are all there modern Brazil-meets-Italy design, iPad but the specialities are original, with menus and colourful Romero Britto combinations like goat’s cheese and fig, pop art on the walls all contribute to an or fennel and chilli. The famous pão unusual dining experience. Rua Aníbal calabresa (sausage-stuffed bread) starter de Mendonça 175, Ipanema (21 2147 and creamy burrata mozzarella steal 8259). Open noon-midnight Tue-Sun. the show though. Rua Maria Main courses R$40-$79.

Quitéria 132, Ipanema (21 2523 2391/stravaganze.

Oui Oui Botafogo has com.br). Open 7pmdeveloped quite the midnight Mon-Thu; reputation for culinary 7pm-2am Fri, Sat; 7pmexcellence in recent years, MAR new The midnight Sun. Main a trend no more visible page ing fac See courses R$41-$63. than in art deco-inspired Oui Oui. Small portions are Severyna The food might the order of the day, with be spicy, but it’s the live music lamb crostinis, caramelised at Severyna that really heats the place ribs and risottos served in an array up. Even on a sleepy Monday night of pots and pans almost as visually the locale is bristling with the sound pleasing as their contents. Rua Conde of forró. Like the music, the Northde Irajá 85, Botafogo (21 2527 3539/ East dominates the menu, with tábuas restauranteouioui.com.br). Open (mixed platters) a great bet for larger noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Mon-Fri; groups. The moqueca is also excellent, 8pm-1.30am Sat, Sun. Main courses especially with some of the fiery house R$26-$48. chilli oil. A relaxed crowd of locals and Brazilian tourists abounds, and CT Boucherie Celebrity chef Claude chances are you’ll be asked for a dance Troisgrois brings a twist to the all-youlater on in the night. Rua Ipiranga 54, can-eat meat rodízio concept. Instead Laranjeiras (21 2556 9398/severyna. of waiters buzzing about with skewers com.br). Open noon-1am daily. Main of filé mignon, here it’s all about the courses R$24-$64. ever changing side orders of vegetables.

Casa Beleza Casa Beleza encapsulates all that is charming about Santa Teresa and its idiosyncratic architecture: turrets, hidden garden passageways and views across Guanabara Bay that call for a sizeable cocktail at sunset. A B&B in the truest sense – for this is also a family home – the layout is such that you can still feel like you own the place and barely see another soul if that’s how you want to play it. Rua Laurinda Santos Lobo 311, Santa Teresa (21 2224 7403/casabeleza. com). Rates R$220-$300 double.

O Veleiro A short climb from Botafogo beach, up an almost forgotten stretch of cobbled road, sits this rustic hideaway escape. The colonial-style B&B consists of three simple, comfy rooms, with an extra guest able to be accommodated for a surcharge of R$90. A dip in the pool or a hang in the hammock under the eucalyptus and mango trees, and the city suddenly seems a very long way away indeed. Rua Mundo Novo 1440, Botafogo (21 2554-8980/oveleiro.com).

Rates R$205-$255 double.

Copacabana Palace Possibly the most famous hotel in South America, the ‘Copa’ elegantly lords over Copacabana beach, in a neighbourhood not always renowned for such dignity. The whole operation exudes luxury, epitomised by the gorgeous poolside bar and restaurants, not to mention the stucco façade, lit-up by night. The rooms are far from designer, but an illustrious roll call of guests and accompanying anecdotes (Ava Gardner reportedly trashed her room after breaking up with Sinatra) help make amends. Avenida Atlântica 1702, Copacabana (21 2548 7070/copacabanapalace.com.br). Rates R$1490-$2940 double.

Utropico Utropico is a unique island hideaway nestled between the sea and mountains, a short boat ride from Barra da Tijuca’s bustling Avenida Armando Lombardi. The owner’s former workshop has been converted into two spaces – a loft and a studio – both of which have an airy, rustic simplicity and have been individually decorated by the artists behind this gem. Ilha Primeira, Barra da Tijuca (21 2492 7150/utropicoguesthouse. com.br). Rates R$300-$440 double (minimum stay 3 nights).

Fasano Ipanema’s prettiest boy toy has been breaking hearts and packing in the celebs, Madonna included, since it opened back in 2007. It’s the ultimate spot to see and be seen in Rio; but you should also take the time to look around at the vistas. The roof terrace pool bar affords wildly lovely views and the Philippe Starck-designed beachfront hotel is also a thing of beauty itself.

Avenida Vieira Souto 80, Ipanema (21 3202 4000/fasano.com.br). Rates R$1.550-$1.900 double.

Z.BRA Leblon’s Z.BRA hostel was at the forefront of a now growing trend towards more affordable, designer accommodation in the city. In keeping with Leblon’s vibe, it’s a stylish affair, with ’40s and ’50s furniture offsetting the modernist exterior. The sleek, retro bunks have compartments for iPods and laptops, and one of the two nine-berth, air-conditioned dorms is wheelchair accessible. The luxury private room (R$295) is pretty sumptuous if petite, and you would be hard-pushed to find better in Leblon for the same price.

Avenida General San Martin 1212, Leblon (21 3596 2386/zbrahostel.com).

Rates R$90 dorm; R$295 double.

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The Best of Rio

IN THE AREA

Rustic refuge Utropico’s unique island setting is perfect for a getaway

For hundreds more bar and restaurant reviews, plus the best of Rio culture and nightlife, head to timeout.com/rio/en

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EMERGENCIES Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

HEALTH

TELEPHONES

For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

DiaLling & codes

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski. com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil.

Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$100 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of a notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuablelooking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are

Diego3336/flickr

SP Essentials

São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit).

The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.

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Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket. A ride to any destination costs R$3 and tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria.

With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which your licence was issued.

Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Thrifty 2085 2085/thrifty.com

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

CYCLING

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App or SaferTaxi.

Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand.

Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

DRIVING

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

WALKING

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot.

The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo.com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img. org.br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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