Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.31/jun. 2013 by Time Out São Paulo

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dition E h s i l Eng 31 Issue # ISSN 2179-894X

NEW KIDS ON THE

BLOCK

The first-time restauranteurs cooking up some of the freshest food in town

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TH O IN B

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

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and Congonhas airports. It’s also available at Movida car rental agencies, and can be found at all the city’s best newsstands ADS.indd 3

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This month in São Paulo 15 June-14 July 2013

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Regulars 6

City beat

The word on the street.

Features

Around Town 46 The highly-adorned Surma and Mursi tribes of West Africa’s Omo river feature in an unmissable photo exhibition at the Museu Afro Brasil.

ER COV RY STO

Art 50 The German artist Florian Foerster

First timers

We uncover the city’s freshest, funkiest new eateries – and they’re all being opened by first-time restauranteurs.

Pedro Almodóvar

explains his gritty São Pauloinspired works.

Film 53 Actress Carey Mulligan on playing

The legendary Spanish director talks about his new comedy, and about politics, sex, drugs and aeroplanes.

the leading lady role in Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby.

Gay & Lesbian 57

Food & Drink

A photography exhibition celebrates Pride month, with portraits of transgender subjects.

Big-screen bars

With the Confederations Cup kicking off this month, we list ten bars where you can catch some football action on-screen.

Bars & Cafés

Music & Nightlife

A newly-crafted menu reinvigorates a high-end cocktail bar, and a cafémeets-playspace offers a respite for parents and plenty of room to run about for the little ones.

Shopping & Style

We dip into SP’s heavy metal scene, plus an afrobeat art exhibition, and an eco-minded music festival.

Football The FIFA Confederations Cup

comes to Brazil.

Going analogue

SP Essentials 63 Essential information for visitors,

Press Image

We take a look at some successful e-commerce sites that have brought their online storefronts into the real world.

True blue The vibrant entrance to the guest house that’s home to Restô 607

and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your images in print.

Quote of the month

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover photography Shutterstock

Hans Silvester/Press Image

Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

I never show [the subjects] the photographs, because if they were to see these pictures, they would change the way they make their decorations.

Face value A child from Hans Silvester’s Omo River tribe photo exhibition

Hans Silvester, photographer of ‘As Fotografias do Vale do Rio Omo’. See page 46

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City Beat

catherine balston

Street galerista

Celestial body Evoking something of the ethereal other-worldliness seen in the unforgettable series of Dr. Seuss’s children’s books, fiery purple and pink-plumed birds, with tentacle-like wings, cover a stretch of wall in Vila Madalena’s infamous graffiti alley, the ‘Beco do Batman’. Stretching across two long expanses of wall, the celestial birds float gracefully, at odds with the stained concrete pavement below and the crown of barbed wire.

Letter from the editor It’s not going be the star of the show this time: São Paulo missed out on hosting any matches in the FIFA Confederations Cup, from 15 to 30 June. It was a frustrating omission for the city, which sees itself as the powerhouse at the heart of Brazilian life, but which has yet to make the final leap into recognition as a watchword for Brazil internationally. That honour still rests with Rio de Janeiro, SP’s better-looking rival city – and to a lesser extent,

arguably, with the capital, Brasília. But with São Paulo set to host the first game in next year’s World Cup (and with work on its Itaquerão stadium taking place at a frantic pace to ensure that’s possible), the city is nevertheless about to go football mad, along with the rest of the country. Turn to our football section for more on that, and head for Eating Out, too, where we’ve picked out ten bars for catching the matches on-screen. Or it you’d rather let the whole

thing wash right over you, join us in discovering some of the most delightful new restaurants we’ve come across for some time. It’s not that the city lacks new eateries – far from it – but what sets these ones apart is the freshness and imagination of first-time restauranteurs, and prices that, while not necessarily cheap, feel fair. Bon appétit – e vamos, Brasil!

Claire Rigby

KEEP UP Read the cover story from our May-June issue at j.mp/TOSP_cowork

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Stay up to date with the best of what’s happening in São Paulo daily by heading to timeout.com/ sao-paulo. Join us on the social networks too: we’re on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Time Out São Paulo is published by Editora Dansville Ltda. Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil. Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini

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Coming up on the site

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy Editor (Portuguese) Marina Monzillo Contributing Assistant Editors Rafael Argemon, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Sarah LeBaron von Baeyer, Mariana Leite, Christopher Mack, Christine Puleo Proofreader Fabiana Caso Rio de Janeiro Editor (English) Doug Gray Editor (Portuguese) Alice Moura

Head online for hundreds of reviews of restaurants, bars, cafés and clubs, as well as features and images from our previous editions. You’ll find most of what’s featured in this issue there, too – plus constantly updated extra events.

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Design Art and Picture Editor Bia Gomes Print Production Gráfica Aquarela Contributors Text Dave Calhoun, Cath Clarke, Márcio Cruz, Anna Fitzpatrick, Tom Huddleston, Eric Hynes, Ben Walters Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro

Press image

Administration Finance Director Gregório Correa de Ávila Finance Analyst Sueli Maria da Silva

Festival do japão The Japanese mega-fest is back, with music, dance, a beauty pageant and food stalls representing each of Japan’s 47 prefectures. 19-21 July. j.mp/TOSP_jap13

Festa junina Warm up the chilly winter month of June in São Paulo at a countryfied festa junina – (‘June festival’). We bring you some of the best places to release your inner hillbilly. Yee ha! j.mp/TOSP_fjuni

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD Cathy Runciman International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins

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Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

FIFA Confederations Cup Maracanã stadium is finally open for business, and set to host two group matches plus the final of the FIFA Confederations Cup 2013. bit.ly/TORJconfed

Ascom/Riotur

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No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.

Olympe An exquisite new

tasting menu has been unveiled to go with the redesigned interior of this Rio favourite, Claude and Thomas Troisgros’s restaurant Olympe. bit.ly/TORJolympe

Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

Rolé Carioca Monthly walking

tours that take in the charms of historic neighbourhoods, rather than the standard tourist sights, set out from Cinelândia starting in July. bit.ly/TORJrole

The key to our five-star rating system

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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Satisfeito goes to Mexico The movement grows internationally, with 100 restaurants in Mexico.

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First

timers Good food and value for money: a new crop of first-time restauranteurs are betting on that classic formula. Catherine Balston investigates

To the pass Chef Ique Lopes at the helm in the new Nama Baru kitchen

catherine balston

ão Paulo is a city proud of its culinary traditions. And though they all too often involve eyewateringly expensive, albeit excellent food, there’s a whole raft of city favourites out there, too, that are loved for their lack of pretentiousness, and their spot-on balancing of quality and value. We’re talking about restaurants like downtown’s Acrópoles and La Casserole, which pack in the customers year after year with their good food, delightful atmospheres and reasonable prices. Or the jewel in Zona Norte’s crown: the outstanding North-Eastern cuisine at Mocotó, a no-frills spot that chef Rodrigo Oliveira took over from his father Seu Zé a decade or so ago, and who just last month opened the more sophisticated Esquina Mocotó, right next door. Others have less of a history, but an enviable ability to attract crowds every day of the week: take the buzzing French bistro Le Jazz Brasserie or Spanish spot Maripili (see Eating Out for all restaurant listings). Basking in the glow of a series of great dinners out recently, at new or newish restaurants, we realised that, beyond their commitment to quality and value, these spots had something else in common: they’re all run by first-time restauranteurs. These are young, creative restaurants, serving imaginative, delicious food that doesn’t cost the earth. We’re not talking cheap and cheerful – we’re talking excellent value for money. Fresh and funky but deadly serious about their craft, they’re the kinds of places where you’ll always find the owners on the premises, whether in the kitchen, or circulating the room. It’s the kind of passion the restaurant trade demands; and though they might not all survive the rough and tumble of the city’s sometimes fickle dining scene, we’re willing to bet that some of these could end up sticking around for a long while to come. Read on to discover the brand new kids on the block.

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Beato

FIRST TIMERS

TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

In business for just over a year, Beato has cleared the tough first-anniversary hurdle, and is still on the up

Fine tuning The seared tuna with a citrus risotto remains Beato’s signature dish on the recently revamped menu

For us, having excellent food was all about finding good suppliers, and always buying the best. Our suppliers are our partners.

TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

WHEN IT COMES to tender-aged wisdom, look no further than the A-list impresarios-in-the-making behind Beato, which celebrated its first year in business in April. The partners are are all under thirty, and include Bruno Ventre who, at 27 years old, barely looks old enough to drive a car let alone run a business, alongside his younger brother Leonardo and their partner Stefano Martins. ‘It was always a dream to have a restaurant, to own our own place,’ Bruno Ventre tells us. ‘We spent three years developing the idea for Beato. We wanted to create a family restaurant, offering the best quality for the lowest possible price.’ The result is a two-storey eatery that has been buzzing from the get go, packed with quirky-meets-rustic design details, and an unpretentious menu. ‘When we opened Beato, we were one of the first restaurants on Rua dos Pinheiros,’ says Ventre of the street that’s become something of a magnet

BRUNO VENTRE, far right, opened Beato with his brother Leonardo, far left, and partner Stefano Martins

TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

for aspiring restauranteurs over the last year or two. ‘Things are happening around here. There are people out and about on the street.’ The food is not as creative as the decor, but that was precisely the idea. ‘Right from the start, we wanted to have a varied, small menu with something for everyone; beef, veggie and fish dishes, as well as pastas and risottos.’ And the result, with main courses starting at R$38, draws a varied crowd, from young groups to elderly couples and families. To celebrate its first year, Beato has relaunched its menu with some new dishes, including a plaited cut of beef shoulder, with a stuffed tomato and rocket salad (R$52), although Bruno’s favourite dish, the restaurant’s signature dish, remains the seared tuna with a citrus risotto and fig chips (R$55). ‘Opening any business is difficult. And a restaurant is really difficult. It’s difficult to hold on to waiting staff and to maintain the quality,’ says Ventre. 'Which is why finding good suppliers was one of the key challenges for us. But we’re there every day, taking care of the day-to-day stuff’ – an all-too-rare quality for a São Paulo restaurant, many of which are owned by consortiums of investors.

Shining path A golden spiral staircase connects the two floors at Beato

Rua dos Pinheiros 174, Pinheiros (2538 8107/beatorestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$38-$73; lunch R$39; couvert R$6.

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Jiquitaia

FIRST TIMERS

Friendly Jiquitaia is the tasty filling sandwiched between the busy bar strip Baixo Augusta, and gay-centric Rua Frei Caneca

PRESS IMAGE

BROTHER AND SISTER duo Carolina Correia Bastos and Marcelo Correia Bastos opened the no-frills Jiquitaia 16 months ago, after quitting their jobs – Marcelo (aged 31) had been working as a lawyer, while younger sister Carolina had spent most of her twenties at IBM. Marcelo, long an amateur gastronome, put himself through cookery school and interned at a handful of restaurants before asking his sister to join him in setting up Jiquitaia. Now in business for 14 months, the pair may have left the rat race behind, but life is more frenetic than ever, as Carolina tells us one afternoon in the lull between the lunch and dinner service that they run six days a week. ‘Marcelo is the chef and the buyer. I’m the admin person, the boss, the accountant and the HR manager. We both take on a lot of roles. It’s one way to keep the costs down. We’re not a luxury place, not like restaurants in Jardins. We don’t have a sommelier or valet parking.’ The pair spent a year looking for the right spot, and found it in the form of a bright, airy, two-up, two-down building, sandwiched on a traffic-heavy road between the gritty nightspot Rua Augusta and the gay-centric Rua Frei Caneca. A blackboard, chalked up with the day’s lunch specials, marks the entrance. ‘Lunch was busy from the start, mostly with an office crowd from the nearby Avenida Paulista,’ continues Carolina. ‘That gave us a guarantee of being able to pay the bills. Filling up the place at dinner took much longer. We had no PR. The first few months were really difficult.’

PRESS IMAGE

Consumer panel Dine, or just sip an ice-cold beer, at Jiquitaia's bar

The first few months were really difficult. We had no PR. But from the moment we were out in the local press, everything changed.

CAROLINA CORREIA BASTOS, runs Jiquitaia with her brother Marcelo

PRESS IMAGE

These days the restaurant – a series of interconnecting white rooms, punctuated with patches of exposed brick, and sparsely decorated wooden tables – buzzes with a young crowd, a mix of couples, gay and straight, and small groups. ‘We get a lot of foreigners here, too,’ adds Carolina. The evening à la carte menu, more elaborate and a tad more expensive than the lunch menu, is concise, featuring twists on classic Brazilian recipes. The result is dishes that are fresh and intensely flavoured without being showy. ‘Dishes come and go on the menu, but the most popular ones stay,’ says Carolina ‘like the moqueca (fish stew, R$37) and the pato no tucupi,’ the latter inspired by a classic Northern dish, usually served by boiling roasted, shredded duck meat in tucupi – a shouty, acidic yellow sauce made from wild manioc root. Here, Marcelo serves a magret – the duck breast shiny pink under a seared skin (though not quite crisp enough, on our visit) – with tucupi, and rice, studded with the lip-tingling flowering herb jambu (R$39). Other bold flavours include tangy tamarind, smothered in a glistening barbecue sauce over tender pork ribs (R$39). ‘In São Paulo, there are lots of good restaurants, but few that are good and affordable,’ says Caroline. ‘And that’s exactly what we wanted to achieve.’

Sweet root Gorgonzola, Brazil nuts and biquinho chillis atop a sweet potato

Rua Antonio Carlos 268, Consolação (3262 2366/jiquitaia.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-midnight Sat. Prices main courses R$25-$39; lunch R$35.

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Nama Baru

FIRST TIMERS

With the paint barely dry on the walls, Ique Lopes and Talita Vasconcelos are finding their feet in a slick, new space THAI RESTAURANTS are a tough nut to crack in São Paulo – a handful have opened and closed over the last decade, despite having buckets of cash thrown at them. For chef Ique Lopes, it's the opposite story. The miniscule lunch-only spot that he opened with his wife Talita in 2009, serving up Asian-inspired salads, stir-fries and curries, did so well that it was eventually bursting at the seams, pushing the couple to upscale to a new space, about four times the size, which opened a month ago on a quiet residential street just a few blocks away. ‘The building project took two years, when it was supposed to take six months,’ says Talita, the general manager. ‘We transformed an old house, knocking through all the internal walls.’ Ique is at the helm in the kitchen, on show in his chef’s whites and bandana through a window set into a concrete wall, masterfully sculpted to look like slate bricks. For Ique, it’s all about adapting to local tastes; ‘I used Thai chillis in my curry pastes and they were infernally hot for the Brazilian palate. Now I use Brazilian chillis. My menu is a real mix of Asian influences.’ New slick space, new bigger menu, albeit with some of the old favourites, including the crunchy tempura squid salad (R$38), and the curry with slow-roast pork belly and tamarind (R$46). The dishes are beautifully presented, sprinked with fresh herbs and edible flowers. The vibe has remained true to the original Nama Baru – local and low-key. ‘We didn’t want a formal restaurant. People can come however they want – they can even come in flipflops.’

CATHERINE BALSTON

I asked to have a window in the kitchen. I like to see clients eat their first forkful – it’s my only real feedback of what’s happening.

Open house Hidden away on a quiet street, Nama Baru draws a local crowd

CATHERINE BALSTON

IQUE LOPES, chef and co-owner, alongside his wife Talita (left)

CATHERINE BALSTON

Rua Barão do Bananal 991, Pompeia (2548 7749/namabaru.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8-11pm Tue-Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$35-$58; lunch R$42.

Sticky stack The generously proportioned sticky char siu pork ribs, served with sweet ginger-topped soba noodles and gently pickled onions (R$44).

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Ella

FIRST TIMERS

I keep my margins low, have a small team and opened in a neighbourhood that’s a bit off the beaten track.

ALEXANDRE ROMANO, chef and owner of Ella

of the city’s top Italian chefs, as well as at Aguzzo, an excellent Italian run by another ex-Fasano employee. Set in a quiet residential area on the west side of Avenida Faria Lima – which we’d bet our lunch money on becoming the city’s next gourmet hotspot – Ella is small without feeling cramped, lined with mirrors, and with a red-leather banquette running along one exposed brick wall. Sunlight pours through its large front window during the day, lighting up a kaleidoscope of spaghetti-like coloured lines wiggling their way across one wall, and looking out on a pleasant outdoor terrace with a handful of tables. Rua Costa Carvalho 138, Pinheiros (3034 1267). Open noon-3pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7-11pm Thu, Fri; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sat, Sun. Prices main courses R$24-$54; lunch R$30; couvert R$6.

KIKO FERRITE/PRESS IMAGE

AT THIS PINHEIROS newcomer, it’s not just getting the right ingredients but getting the right equipment that has proven to be one of the restaurant’s big challenges in its first few months in business. The signature dish – bigoli – a thick, rustic-style spaghetti, made by Ella’s chef and owner Alexandre Romano, using a machine imported from Italy, was off the menu on our visit, just one month after opening, with the machine already broken and awaiting (goodness knows how long) a replacement to arrive from Italy. We took the manager’s advice and opted for some of the other very reasonably priced pastas on the menu – the delicate, beautifully cooked tortelli (R$26), stuffed with an interesting combination of bright pink beetroot and ricotta, glistening with butter and sprinkled with crispy fried sage leaves. And the agnolotti dal plin (R$26) – pasta parcels with a more robust filling of roasted, shredded beef and a meaty, sage-infused gravy, topped with freshly grated parmesan. A clean plate is generally a good sign of a tasty meal. True only in part, in our case, with portion sizes only just about big enough to take the edge off a hungry appetite. Our tip, fill up on the couvert (R$6), with housemade breads, including focaccia, and dips of aubergine pátê and sardella – a paste of anchovy and red pepper. Not all the dishes hit the high notes on the flavour front – the taglioni (R$26), a generous bowl of thin spaghetti with a delicate pesto, lacked the promised asparagus, served instead with overpowering green pepper. The essence of Italian cooking is in the ingredients, and there’s no better test than a salada caprese (R$26), which didn’t deliver here, with tomatoes that lacked sweetness and a mozzarella without the requisite soft creaminess. Ella seems to be off to roaring start, nonetheless, packing young groups and families into its colourful space in Pinheiros, while Norah Jones croons through the speakers. Perhaps it’s the reasonable prices, or Romano’s credentials – the chef has worked at the Fasano (see Restaurant listings), a once-bastion of Italian cuisine in São Paulo, and a training ground for many

KIKO FERRITE/PRESS IMAGE

Owned and run by a former Fasano chef, Ella is off to a roaring start, serving reasonably priced Italian cuisine

His and hers Cosy up on the banquette or eat alfresco out on the terrace

Baby bites Roast shoulder of lamb with fregola (small pasta beads)

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Restô 607

FIRST TIMERS

PRESS IMAGE

Chanelling a colourful Californian vibe, this miniscule restaurant, inside a boutique guest house, serves beautiful Brazilian food

Potted perfection Anazonian fish with a lime farofa (toasted manioc flour)

Simply red The small restaurant space leads out onto an outdoor terrace

SIMPLE BUT beautifully executed Brazilian food is at the heart of the miniscule menu at Restô 607, an informal bar-restaurant inside the boutique guest house Guest 607. Small and brightly lit with arresting, stencilled orange-red walls, and wooden ballerinas hanging in the ceiling spotlights, the interior here feels part country café and part grown-up toy-store. As you might expect, our fellow diners are an international bunch, ranging from French backpackers to a lone Columbian traveller, Skyping home on his laptop. The co-owner, the exuberant Cássia Saldanha, spent ten years living and working in London and Italy, and travelling extensively in the USA before coming back to her native São Paulo to set up Guest 607, which Saldanha describes as a boutique hotel rather than a hostel (although it has one dorm room as well as five compact private rooms). ‘On my travels, working as well as visiting bed and breakfasts, I picked up the best of what each place had to offer and incorporated them here,’ says Saldanda, who was shooting for a ’40s Californian beach vintage look in the colourful décor. In the restaurant, occupying one half of the guest house’s ground floor, with a few tables spilling out onto a street-facing patio, the fixed-price lunch changes every day, with a small à la carte offering in the evening. ‘I wanted to do Brazilian cuisine, with just a few dishes to choose from. I brought a chef from Pará,’ says Saldanha about the chef, the calm, measured Gustavo Rodrigues, who spent a couple of years working in Belém’s outstanding restaurants, Remanso do Bosque and Remanso do Peixe, before joining Saldanha to set up the restaurant. Rodrigues constructed a tiny but divine menu, which changes every few weeks. There may be fewer dishes than you can count on one hand, but even

PRESS IMAGE

Prices in Brazil are exorbitant. I wanted to introduce affordable eating in a different way, with a small menu but the best quality.

CÁSSIA SALDANHA, owns Guest 607 along with her partner, Eduardo Quadrado

then it’s almost impossible to decide. On our visit, we tried and loved the slowroasted pork belly with a garlickey mashed potato (R$43), and the peixe no leite de coco (R$48) – served in a red casserole dish big enough to feed two, steaming with two thick fillets of filhote fish covered in a creamy coconut fish stock and studded with Brazil nuts. The fillets of filhote, a super-sized Amazonian fish, were brought down in person by Rodrigues. Travelling from Belém on a passenger plane with fresh fish is not unusual, Rodrigues assures us: ‘Most people travel with large isopors (polystyrene cool boxes), packed with fresh food, on the plane down to São Paulo.’ Luckily, Restô 607 also has a good fish supplier at the Mercadão, since we learnt as we went to press that Rodrigues has since left, with a new chef – Antonio Castro – now at the helm. Unlike the reasonably priced mains, the drinks are on the more expensive side, with cocktails priced at R$19 and the caipirinhas – imaginative twists that team cachaça with the likes of cashew fruit juice and ginger syrup, or pineapple, grape, mint and hibiscus syrup – costing R$16. For Saldanha, the first six months have not been without their teething troubles. ‘Managing people is the most complicated part. There are lots of jobs here in São Paulo, so people don’t have that dedication, they don’t take it so seriously,’ she explains, though that doesn’t stop her from dreaming about her next venture. ‘All in good time, though’, she says, wise for her 29 years. Rua João Moura 607, Pinheiros (2619 6007/guest607.com.br). Open 7.30am10.30am, noon-5pm Mon; 7.30am-10.30am, noon-11pm Tue-Sat; 7.30am10.30am, noon-5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$41-$48; lunch R$28.

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PARIS FILMES/PRESS IMAGE

The

TIME OUT interview

Flying high The Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar talks to Dave Calhoun about passion, death and returning to comedy in his new in-flight film, I’m So Excited

ever has switching my phone to ‘airplane mode’ before an interview felt so appropriate. Spanish director Pedro Almodóvar’s new film, I’m So Excited (original title Los Amantes Pasajeros) is an airborne farce: a highly strung comic melodrama bordering on panto, about a planeload of passengers circling 10,000ft above Spain during a technical failure. Three gay stewards drug the economy-class passengers and get high themselves. At one point, this camp trio break out into a dance routine and sing the tune by The Pointer Sisters that gives the film its name. Meanwhile, the married pilot is having it off with a male steward behind his wife’s

back and the business-class section is a rogue’s gallery of corruption, desperation and deception. The film is short, sharp and saucy, harking back to his more frenetic, more madly comic films – like 1988’s Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown. It’s silly, yes, but not without serious things to say about modern Spain, despite the distracting chaos of a story overflowing with sex, drink and drugs. After more than 30 years in the director’s chair, 63-year-old Almodóvar is now a byword for stylish and subversive filmmaking. Since he started making his punkish, anarchic films in the early 1980s, he has given us extremity and outrage while nearly always offering warmth and humour at the same time. Lately, films including 2004’s Bad Education,

2006’s Volver and 2009’s Broken Embraces have shown a darker, less colourful side of this gay filmmaker, who has near-singlehandedly built the reputation of Spanish cinema around the world. Your last two films, The Skin I Live In and Broken Embraces were quite morbid and reflective. Why the change of tone? ‘I’ve wanted to make another comedy for a while now, and I had this idea back when I was making Broken Embraces in 2009. But I live with my stories for a long time. Also, at the moment, Spain is living through the worst moment since democracy was established. I like the idea that the audience will go and see the film and feel better when they come out than they did when they went in.’

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TIME OUT interview

Were you curious to see if you could still make this sort of film? ‘What I wanted to do was rediscover the tone of those early films. Maybe I was really trying to recapture my youth? I’m 33 years older than when I started. I wanted to see if that tone which characterised me in the ’80s was still there. There’s always been a lot of humour in my films, but I hadn’t done a pure comedy since Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown. I do think I was able to write with the lightness of that era.’

Much of the film exists in a state of heightened sexual arousal within this claustrophobic plane cabin. Is sex the ultimate escape from a dark reality in your story? ‘The meaning of the sexual orgy is that, in this moment of danger, when they could all end up dead, I wanted them to enjoy themselves. I wanted them to enjoy one of the great gifts that nature has given us, which is sex. I’m not saying it’s a solution to all tragedies, but it’s a great way of saying goodbye to life, just in case. It deserves to be celebrated. When I wrote the film, it had a taste of the way I wrote my first films in the early ’80s. The film is a homage to the early 1980s in Spain. It was a moment of real freedom of expression, with a new democracy, and there was huge promiscuity in the best sense of the word.’ Do you think Spain is in a similar period of upheaval as it was when you started during the 1980s, during the cultural thaw of ‘la movida’ (the movement) after the long rule of General Franco and fascism? ‘Yes, but the upheaval now is for the worse. The films I made in the early ’80s, they would be much more scandalous now than they were at that time.

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I’m So Excited is light and frothy, but you’ve also said that it reflects the difficult political and economic reality in Spain today. How? ‘It’s a metaphor for Spanish society right now. These people on the plane go round in circles. They don’t know when they’re going to land. They know it’s going to be an emergency landing and it’s going to be dangerous. There’s uncertainty and fear. That represents the moment we’re living in. But it’s a comedy. Everything finishes well. In reality, we don’t know how it’s going to finish.’ Total setup With some helpful hands, Blanca Suárez stays balanced on the set of ‘I’m So Excited’

This new film was scandalous, too – not that I was conscious of that when I was writing it. Now things in Spain are closing in, not opening up.’ Have some people in Spain found I’m So Excited scandalous then? ‘Spain is a right-wing country. The government says it’s centre right, but no, it’s right. Not extreme right, but right. There’s a big problem at the moment with the royal family and accusations of corruption. The biggest problem in Spain, bigger than the crisis, is the corruption of politicians working with financiers. And it’s all in the film. Also, the dominatrix in the film talks about Opus Dei, the Catholic organisation. These are strong institutions in Spain. Also, people have reacted against the film because I’ve turned the catastrophe in Spain into a party. But in terms of sexuality, nothing is seen. There’s something, too, in the story that disturbs heterosexuals who at some time have had a homosexual fantasy.’

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You’re talking about the pilot in your film who is having an affair with a male steward. Do you think some people find it difficult that you show repressed homosexuality? ‘I’m dealing with bisexuality. Nobody really talks about it, but it’s much more common than we think … But I’m beginning to sound like the film is making people uncomfortable all over the place, and it’s not! It’s doing really well in Spain even though the market has reached a new low. But let’s not talk about tragedies!’

In plane sight Almodóvar gets himself focused

There’s a lot of medicating and self-medicating in the film. You knock out the whole economy class section, and everyone in business class is off their heads. ‘My intention with economy class was to sublimi-

nally show an abuse of power on the part of the pilots. So once they’ve given them the medication, they’re trying to silence an entire class. Nobody’s going to come and annoy them. In business class on planes, which is where I travel and where I live, auto-medicating is a way of life. It’s what people do! Here, the stewards drug the business-class passengers with a Valencian cocktail, which is a real cocktail and very popular. It’s a mix of alcohol, juice and mescaline, and it was around a great deal in the ’80s. You get a really euphoric effect, and it’s an aphrodisiac too. It makes people very social. You let down your hair. Everything is fun. It’s a re-emergence of a real ’80s cocktail.’ You say you always fly business class. So has a lifetime of observation gone into this film? ‘Yes, but I don’t look around much on planes. I just want to read. But I’ve written many of my movie ideas on planes. Something makes me concentrate so much more than elsewhere. There’s something about the movement, about how time and space is fluid, that makes me focus in a profound way.’ We tend to think a lot about sex and death on planes. Does I’m So Excited bring that tendency to life too? ‘Yes. Without being over-dramatic, death is present from the moment you get on a plane. And yes, the fantasy of having sex on a plane is very common too.’ I was thinking a bit more generally than that specific fantasy! ‘That’s because you’re British and I’m Mediterranean!’ I’m So Excited is released on 28 June. For review, see Film.

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés

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Eating Out Bars & Cafés

Swanky sipping for expensive tastes The Coachella at the decidedly upscale Bar Numero

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Eating Out Catch the cup

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The Confederations Cup may not be coming to São Paulo, but there are plenty of bars where you can tune in, say Juan Cifrian and Catherine Balston

On theme The friendly old-timer, São Cristóvão, packs thousands of football photos and memorabilia onto its walls

Artilheiros Set on a quiet strip of Rua Mourato Coelho, just a skip and a hop from Vila Madalena’s busy bar scene, modest Artilheiros Bar is all about football, from the array of team scarves and vintage football magazines adorning the white-washed brick walls, to its commitment to broadcasting all the

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All Black The ultra-chic designer shopping street, Rua Oscar Freire, is the last place you might expect to find a good pub. True to its surroundings, though, All Black is an upmarket pub, catering to a sophisticated crowd while recreating the feel of a classic pub, with a black façade, dark wood throughout the interior and two projection screens for broadcasting big games. All the usual suspects from across the pond are on tap behind the bar. But you can’t have it all at All Black: despite its merits, the bar is closed on Sundays, one of the principal match days. Rua Oscar Freire 163, Jardim Paulista (3088 7990/allblack.com. br). Prices half pint of beer R$8; cover R$15-$45.

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The FIFA Confederations Cup is finally upon us, and while São Paulo might not have made the cut as one of the host cities, its bars will be buzzing anyhow during the games. Whichever team you’re supporting, read on for our round-up of bars for the best game-day experience.

Screen grab The king of SP sports bars, with 22 big screens, is Hooters

Brazilian league, Euro League and Champions League football games. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the space fills with natural light in the afternoons. The crowd is a bit more sophisticated than your average bar full of football fans, albeit some of them are decked out in their football strips. Almost every spot in the bar has a good vantage point of one of the four 50-inch screens. The only downside here is the limited beer selection. Keep it local and share a 600ml bottle of Original. A R$5 cover charge on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays covers live MPB and samba rock. When the football’s not on, naturally. Rua Mourato Coelho 1194, Pinheiros (2922 0314/ artilheirosbar.com.br). Prices 600ml beer R$7.60; caipirinha R$16. Blue Pub Downstairs, this is one of the cosiest little pubs in town, while on an ordinary weekday, the simple upstairs makes for a decent spot in which to pull up a barstool, or to slink round the back for a quiet table and some basic pub grub. When there’s football on, though – and that might be the Brazilian league, Libertadores, UEFA or any number

of other important international matches – the place gets absolutely packed, with a lively cadre of fans jostling for a look at one of the five TV screens. It’s not one for the claustrophobic. Note that there’s a R$15-$30 minimum spend for the Confederations Cup semi-finals and the final. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 384, Bela Vista (3284 8338/ thebluepub.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP Prices half pint of beer R$11; caipirinha R$16. Boteco São Bento Located in the heart of Itaim, the spacious, high-ceilinged São Bento buzzes most nights of the week with post-work office crowds, with a higher contingent of short skirts and stilettoes at weekends. On match afternoons the vibe is a little more low-key, with big groups gathering in front of two large-screen TVs and a projector broadcasting Brazilian league games and the Champions League. If you want a good view of the screens, arrive early – or bring binoculars. On sunny afternoons, the awnings are rolled back, making this a pleasant spot to catch some rays, though putting a dampener on the match acoustics. The service here

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is fast and efficient – they’ll have a fresh chope (draught beer) in your hands before you’ve finished the last one. Rua Leopoldo Couto Magalhães Júnior 480, Itaim Bibi (3074 4389/ botecosaobento.com.br). Prices chope R$5.60; caipirinha R$15.

Posto 6 Holding down one quarter of the busiest crossroads in Vila Madalena, flanked by bars on all sides, this classic corner choperia is decked out with vintage photos and celebrity caricatures, and named after the iconic surfing spot on Rio’s Copacabana beach. While it may be a far cry from its oceanfront namesake, Posto 6 is always busy, especially on match days. The best view for evening games is an alfresco one, with matches projected onto the white façade of the bar opposite (Cervejaria Patriarca), for the viewing pleasure of the Posto 6 patrons seated out on the sidewalk. Rua Aspicuelta 644, Vila Madalena (3812 4342/posto6.com). Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$17.

São Cristóvão Set in the heart of Vila Madalena’s bustling bar scene, this cosy, football-themed charmer has a low-key, local crowd, making it one of the more relaxed bars in which to tune into the action, though with only three TVs, it’s not the best viewing experience in town. Devoted to Rio’s São Cristóvão football team, its red façade – as well as what seems like every square-inch of wall space inside – pays homage to the eponymous squad, as does its expansive collection of football photos and memorabilia. To guarantee a spot, you can reserve a table until noon – a good excuse to make an afternoon of it over a hearty lunch. Rua Aspicuelta 533, Vila Madalena (3097 9904). Prices chope R$5.70; caipirinha R$13; cover charge R$12 (Mon, Sun).

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Hooters It may be trashy, and yes, there are scantily-clad Hooters girls serving up the beers in the São Paulo branch of this US chain of bars, but there is no denying Hooters’ credentials as one of the best bars in town for watching sport. In the spacious Hooters in Vila Olímpia, more than twenty 42-inch TVs line the timberclad walls, showing everything from national and international football games to golf tournaments, tennis, baseball, basketball and UFC. It’s Americana all the way with burgers, chicken wings and ribs on the menu, though the draught beer (Devassa) is Brazilian and as un-PC as Hooters, with its pin-up girl logo. There’s even a glass-walled play area for kids, if that’s your family’s kind of outing. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 1575, Itaim Bibi (3842 3300/hootersbrasil. com.br). Prices half pint of beer R$8.50; caipirinha R$16.50.

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Casa do Espeto The ‘Espeto’ in the name of this small chain of bars refers to its edible offerings – espetos (grilled skewers) – circulated on trays by the (at times slow) waiting staff. If it can be skewered, they skewer it here, from sausage to chicken hearts, chunks of garlic bread and even chocolatecoated strawberries. The food is not the main draw though – far from it, to be honest: it’s the expanse of urban garden hidden out the back, at the Pompeia branch. Head through the bar and down through the cascading levels of tree-covered patios to find a table. In addition to the bar’s 10 TV screens, three projectors are set up outside on match days, with live MPB to bookend the games. Rua Cotoxó 582, Pompeia (3676 0436/

casadoespeto.com.br). Prices 600ml beer R$7.50; capirinha R$18, cover R$5 (Tue-Sun).

Queen’s Head Punctuating its packed Thursdaythrough-Sunday schedule of live music, the Queen’s Head broadcasts football matches, though only the finals for major Brazilian leagues when São Paulo teams are playing, and international championship finals. The latter are shown on two large TVs and projected onto a 100-inch screen. Expect a sizeable British contingent when the England side is playing – the pub is on the ground floor of the Brazilian British Centre, a contemporary building that’s also home to São Paulo’s British Consulate, British Council and Cultura Inglesa language school. The pub has had a crack at bringing some atmosphere to an otherwise charmless, windowless box of a space, aided by a solid selection of Scotch whiskies, and beer on tap, including London Pride and Old Speckled Hen. Rua Tucambira 163, Pinheiros (3774 3778/queenshead.com.br). Prices half pint of beer R$10; caipirinha R$13; cover R$0-20.

Food & Drink

Safe bet Football? Rugby? You name it, they’ll (probably) show it at O’Malley’s

O’Malley’s While far from being an authentic Irish pub, O’Malleys does a good job as a substitute local boozer for homesick expats, with stools at the bar, ales on tap, and an extensive menu of comfort foods including fish and chips, bangers and mash and an all-day Irish breakfast. Another big draw is the sports, with 13 large-screen TVs scattered through its two-storey maze of dark, low-ceilinged rooms, broadcasting pretty much every local, national and international football game that punters might want to watch. O’Malley’s doesn’t stop there, also showing ice hockey, rugby, American football and even the occasional tennis match. And if it’s not available via cable TV, they stream it from the internet via a projector, though the broadband speed is not always up to the task. For the big games, brace yourself for rowdy crowds. Alameda Itú 1529, Jardim Paulista (3086 0780/omalleysbar.net). Metrô 2, Consolação. Prices half pint of beer R$7; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$35 (after 10pm).

Rio outpost Cold beers and sizzling steaks fuel the laid-back crowd at Posto 6

Corner boozer More dull grey than blue, The Blue Pub is a fun spot anyhow

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Food & Drink

Reviews

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Meats

Sizzle it Fast food becomes fancy food at this upmarket burger joint

The humble burger goes haute cuisine in Pinheiros

Original Burger. Vintage Burger. General Prime Burger. Butchers’ Market. Rock ’n’ Roll Burger. St Louis. If there’s one thing paulistanos adore, it’s a good hamburger: the simple perfection of a hot meat patty sandwiched between two buns. Search and you’ll

find all manner of variations on that formula, from steamed burgers to duck burgers, prawn burgers and veggie burgers. Broadband connected? Make it iBurger. Then there’s the ones that fell by the way side and closed, like Dim Burger. Perhaps the clue was in the name. The city’s worship of the humble patty seems to know no bounds, peaking last month with a fortnight dedicated to hamburgers in the

second SP Burger Fest, with 42 eateries taking part, each serving a limited-edition burger. Just one of a constant parade of trumped-up ‘celebrations’ of this or that food, the burger festival nevertheless touched a nerve on my timeline, popping up on Facebook and Instagram regularly for the duration. Riding the wave deftly is Meats, a gourmet burger joint that opened at the end of last year. It joined a profusion of burger restaurants on the same street, bustling Rua dos Pinheiros, and launched just a few months after its gourmet burger neighbour, Meat Chopper, on the opposite side of the road. Like the very New Yorky Butchers’ Market, which opened in Itaim Bibi to much acclaim in 2011, Meats has a funky vibe – and a sense of soul that many of SP’s formulaic American diner replicas seem so short of. With soft-lighting, its name writ large in naked bulbs behind the bar, a decent wine menu and a selection of cocktails, Meats clearly aspires to restaurant rather than casual diner status. The burgers are fat, juicy and pink on the inside, just as they should be, with prices starting at R$19 and

going up to R$29 (not including side orders). Gourmet combinations include the ‘zucchini’, a beef burger with goat’s cheese, courgette, bacon and mint sauce, or the ‘hooligan’ with cheese, bacon and horseradish mayo (both R$29). The fries (R$19) – a tasty mix of regular and sweet potato chips – were perfectly crispy, as were the delightfully sweet thick onion rings, fried with panko breadcrumbs (R$19). Less good were the chicken hot wings (R$24) – nice and spicy, but greasy rather than sticky. The steak tartare, served with a slice of crispy Guinness bread and a slice of olive-oil bread, plus coinshaped fries, came artfully presented on a wooden board, but lacked a depth of seasoning. Are these the best burgers in the city? They might be: they’re good. But how many burgers do you need to try to be sure? I’ll leave it to the confirmed burger addicts to fight that one out. Catherine Balston Rua dos Pinheiros 320 (2679 6323/facebook: MEATS). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon1am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$13-$38.

Hearty Eastern European fare that’s perfect for chilly days

Open for just over a year, Maria Escaleira is run by a husbandand-wife-team – a trans-Atlantic duo comprising Brazilian Vanessa Medrado Wica front of house, with her husband, the Polish chef Andrzej Wica, backstage in the kitchen. The couple’s speciality is moderately priced Polish classics – a taste of home for expat Poles and a novelty for most others, since save for stroganoff, a paulistano staple hailing from Russia originally, Eastern and Central European cuisine is thin on the ground in São Paulo. Maria Escaleira’s location, just like its menu, is homely and unpretentious: just two storeys of sparsely decorated rooms connected by an ageing wooden staircase. With just three or four tables per room, big groups can take one over and raise the roof should the spirit move them, while couples may find themselves dining in discreet

murmurs alongside just one or two other couples. Wica, a chef with 15 years’ experience under his belt, is returning to his roots and cooking Polish food for the first time professionally. It took him about a year, and a lot of creativity, to source the right Brazilian ingredients to create his menu. With one of the only imported Polish products in Brazil being vodka – try Maria Escaleira’s exceedingly smooth Zubrowka (na zdorovie!) – local Polenghi cream cheese stands in for sour cream, a Polish basic. It’s used in a garlicky dip alongside caramelised red onion jelly, with delicious deep-fried salty-sweet langos breads (R$16.90); and it’s stuffed inside the pierogi (R$29.50) – a satisfying mix of potato and cheese in ravioli-style parcels, with or without crispy bacon bits on top. Other menu highlights include the bigos (R$30.50), a robust, intensely flavoured stew with pork meat, which Wica cooks at a low temperature with wine for at least two days, adding

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Maria Escaleira

Pole to pole Pierogi parcels, the epitomy of Polish comfort food smoked sausage, bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms and sauerkraut. Less satisfying were the placki ziemniaczane (R$14.50) – overly greasy flat potato pancakes with a creamy garlic dip – but the barszcz (beetroot soup, R$16.90), more than made up for it with its dark red, velvety smoothness. The epitomy of Maria Escaleira’s comfort food, it’s warm, delicious and reasonably

priced. Winter is coming? We say bring it on… Catherine Balston Rua Conego Eugenio Leite 1055, Pinheiros (2364 9913/ mariaescaleira.com.br). Open noon3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6-11pm TueThu; noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$28.50-$31.50; lunch R$23.90-$28.50.

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How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes. We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

State affair São Paulo flavours

GREEK Acrópoles You can imagine Acrópoles landing a minor part in a Woody Allen movie, or a cameo role in Seinfeld as the quintessential familyowned neighbourhood joint. Weekends can get uncomfortably packed despite the outmoded downtown location. The decor is beyond faded, with wonky photos of crumbling temples, and the veteran owners look like they might have had a hand in building the original Acrópolis. The steaming kitchen rolls out Greek classics such as moussaka and baked lamb, along with some nods to Italian classics. Nothing’s spectacular – but it’s good, solid, home-made stuff. Rua da Graça 364, Bom Retiro (3223 4386/ restauranteacropoles.com.br). Open noon11pm daily. Main courses R$30-$60; couvert R$25-$45. BARGAIN FRENCH La Casserole It first opened in 1954, and since then little has changed in this frozen-in-time bistro – which is no bad thing. The service is friendly and charming, and the food is good, solid, bourgeois cooking. The menu doesn’t pander or dumb down, though – there are classics like tripes à la mode de Caen and kidneys in beaujolais wine, alongside well cooked lamb and the tried-and-tested coq au vin. It’s worth spending a little time walking round the neighbourhood by day (be careful in the area after nightfall) to get a flavour of the way São Paulo was before the wreckers’ balls took over. Largo do Arouche 346, Centro (3331 6283/ lacasserole.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

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Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Consolação & Higienópolis BARBECUE Angélica Grill Make sure

you’re feeling carnivorous when you visit this large rodízio – it’s all-you-can-eat meat, fresh off the grill. Waiters circle the brightly lit dining room with any of 25 types of carne, and fill your plate until you surrender. Supplement your meal with side dishes from the extensive salad bar (sushi, bread, veggies and more), but be careful not to overload here, or you will not be able to take full advantage of the meat bonanza. Rodízio plate management is a practiced art. If you are vying for the title of World’s Biggest Glutton, servers will tempt your sweet tooth with a rolling dessert cart or cook up delicious banana flambé while you watch. Note that Friday is seafood and fish day, and that desserts and beverages are charged separately. Avenida Angélica 430, Santa Cecília (3664 0070/angelicagrill.com). Metrô 3, Santa Cecília and and Marechal Deodoro. Open 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39.90-$55.

We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers. BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

Food & Drink

Restaurant listings

São Paulo state is simply vast, trumping Great Britain and a number of other European countries in size. It’s no surprise, therefore, to discover that it’s also home to a rich array of cuisines. Bringing them all together under one roof, the Festival Gastronômico Sabor de São Paulo is the culmination of a quest to find the most emblematic dishes, from São Paulo’s coastal towns all the way inland to the vast expanses of countryside. Sample dishes from thirty shortlisted establishments during the two-day festival. How about slow-

cooked pork belly with crackling (barriga de porco à pururuca, see photo) from Araraquara, 275 km inland from São Paulo? Or crystallised fruits from the even remoter São José do Rio Preto? From the coast, try fish smoked in banana leaves from Cananéia, a town best known for its mangrove oysters. Visitors can also nose around stalls of local handicrafts and stock up on organic groceries from some of the state’s small farms. 11am-9pm, 29-30 June, Parque da Água Branca, Avenida Francisco Matarazzo 455, Barra Funda (sabordesaopaulo.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$38.50-$72.50; lunch R$42$52; couvert R$10-$14.

sponsors local performances, whose casts eat half price. Utterly unpretentious, the place has been open for 40 years under the guidance of José Alves de Godoy, known to all as Mosquito. Try his tried and tested invention – lasagna alla romanesca, with white sauce, peas, ham and mushrooms. Rua Augusta 311, Consolação (3256 9356/cantinaepizzariapiolin.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1.30am Mon-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; noon-2am Sun. Main courses R$41-$68 (for two); lunch R$17.50; couvert R$12.50. BARGAIN

ITALIAN Cantina e Pizzaria Piolin A true survivor on Baixo Augusta, where it once lived a solitary life in the midst of sex clubs, Piolin is a cheap and cheerful Italian spot where everyone, it seems, is a regular. That might have something to do with its long-standing popularity with theatre-land’s grafters – the house

ITALIAN Camelo What started out in 1957 as an Arabic restaurant serving esfihas and houmous has reinvented itself over the years, and is now one of the city’s most traditional pizza joints. Vast, bright, busy and welcoming, Camelo serves crunchybased pizzas, such as the house special – pizza Camelo – with endive, bacon, palm heart and olives, or a healthier rocket and sun-dried-tomato option. Deviating slightly from the Italian theme, another tasty option is the frango à passarinho (crispy, deep fried chicken). Rua Engenheiro Edgar Egídio de Souza 98, Higienópolis (3822 5050/ pizzariacamelo.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Fri-Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun-Thu. Main courses R$64-$116 (for two). Other locations Citywide. FRENCH Ici Bistrô This chic, classically French restaurant has won considerable acclaim since its 2002 opening. The appetisers includes the duo de lula panée, crisp and wonderfully spicy squid, although the modest portion is an appetitewhetting trick (long in use by the purveyors of haute-French cuisine). The sesame-seed-encrusted tuna steak is supremely tender and well flavoured, and the desserts deserve equal praise, especially the icy profiteroles and the signature pain perdu – a heavenly slice of caramelised French toast served with a dollop of pear compote bathed in double cream. Rua Pará 36, Higienópolis (3259 6896/icibistro. com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Fri; 12.304pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$43-$113; lunch R$46-$56; couvert R$8.90.

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kebabs’ is Kebabel’s tagline, and boy do they deliver on both those promises – as well as delivering to your home, too, if you live in the area. Served in a traditional pitta, the kebabs are skinny but packed full of flavour. Try a falafel kebab with vinaigrette, pickles, Arab spices, and tahini (sesame paste) on the side. Meat lovers can opt for lamb, chicken or kofta kebabs. Still hungry? Munch on a portion of fried cauliflower or smoked javali (wild boar) sausages. To quench your thirst, order an awardwinning Colorado Appia or Indica (chope R$7.50), brewed in Ribeirão Preto, or one of a range of bottled imports like the Belgian Delirium Nocturnum (R$36). Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 22, Consolação (3259 1805/kebabel. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-midnight Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$18.90-$22.90. Other location Rua João Moura 871, Pinheiros (3062 7530).

ECLECTIC La Frontera A lesser-known cousin of the well-loved Argentinian steakhouse, Martín Fierro, La Frontera opened in 2006 but still feels like a local secret, despite being sandwiched between two of the neighbourhood’s busiest roads. The owner hails from Argentina but the menu is inspired by cuisines from all over South America. The paleta de leitão (suckling pig), cooked in the oven for three hours and topped with a crisp crackling and potato purée, was light, tender and full of flavour. Sommelier Ezequiel Rodrigues has put together an excellent selection of 120 wines, and it’s pure pleasure to hear him describe the options. Rua Coronel José Eusébio 105, Higienópolis (3255 8867/lafrontera.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 12.30-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 12.30-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$87; lunch R$42. FRENCH La Tartine You can’t go wrong with friendly La Tartine for an informal bite to eat with friends. This small bistro has three cosy rooms: two on the ground floor and one upstairs, where you can also settle into one of the sofas while you wait – although don’t be surprised to find a queue forming down the stairs at weekends. The menu is small and reasonably priced, featuring traditional French fare such as quiche and salad, steak au poivre and coq au vin. Rua Fernando Albuquerque 267, Consolação (3259 2090). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7.30pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$24-$38. BARGAIN INDIAN Madhu In a city as cosmopolitan as São Paulo, it’s a surprise to find so few options for food from the Indian subcontinent. So it’s an even bigger surprise to find a fastfood Indian restaurant that not only serves damn good curry, but serves it in combos featuring a top-notch array of side dishes. Chapatis come as standard, but there are tough choices to be made: which chutney? Rice, or flat appam rice-bread? Samosa or kofta? The easy bit is the bill – you can have the lot with change from a R$20 note. Rua Augusta 1422, Consolação (3262 5535/madhurestaurante.com.br). Open noon-10pm Mon-Wed; noon-11.30pm

Thu; noon-midnight Fri; 1pm-1am Sat; 1-10.30pm Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$12.90-$24.90.

sauce are tasty without overloading the palate. The main courses of lasagne Bolognese and spaghetti all’ amatriciana (with bacon, tomato and onion) are surprisingly light, defying the stereotype of carb-heavy Italian cooking. Rua Consolação 2967, Consolação (3063 4864/tappo.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm, 7.30pmmidnight Tue-Fri; 12.30-4pm, 7.30pmmidnight Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$74; couvert R$6.

CONTEMPORARY Rex Restaurante Few things warm the heart more than a tale of one man and his dog. In the case of Rex, the funky late-night supper club from the chef Cassio Machado, the dog in question is one Baboo, Machado’s late Rottweiler. Baboo is reproduced in kitschy sculpture form by a number of local artists in the narrow, whimsical space. Soak up the eclectic, sensory overload decor as you browse the menu of creative burgers and simple bistro fare with a twist, like filet mignon with wasabi, ginger and rosemary (R$49), or salmon tweaked with a tart raspberry vinaigrette (R$54). Another pleasant surprise, beyond the sophisticated dining at 4am, are the wines by the glass, which you can try before you buy. Rua da Consolação 3193, Jardim Paulista (2506 7386/rexrestaurante.com. br). Open 8pm-4am Mon-Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Main courses R$28-$55; couvert R$6.50.

Lapa, Perdizes, & Barra Funda BARBECUE Fogão Gaúcho This

expansive steakhouse is a lone beacon of competence in a semi-industrial area in the north of the city. The quality of its cuts, the salting of the meat, and the skill at the grill all work in perfect harmony. Its super-efficient waiting staff, clad in white shirts, leather boots and loose gaúcho trousers – scores it bonus points. The architecture – a series of bland cojoining rooms – is nothing to write home about, but the quality woods and marbles throughout, and an excellent bar area, make up for any design deficiencies. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767B, Barra Funda (3611 3008/fogaogaucho.com.br). Open

BRAZILIAN Rota do Acarajé They do

a delicious acarajé here – a bean-paste patty in to which you stuff vatapá (shrimp paste), prawns, and lashings of chilli – which come conveniently minisized for sharing as a starter. For mains, try the Bahian moqueca – a spicy fish or prawn stew with coconut milk, enriched with a rainbow of tropical flavours. The no-frills decor and pavement tables all give the place an authentically unrefined Bahian feel – as does the friendly service, which is as agonisingly slow as it is in Bahia. But the beer is cold and the food is hot, so relax and switch off that São Paulo stopwatch: for the next hour or so, you’re in Bahia. Rua Martim Francisco 529/533, Santa Cecília (3668 6222/ rotadoacaraje.com.br). Metrô 3, Santa Cecília. Open noon-11.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses R$54$115 (for two). CONTEMPORARY Sal Gastronomia From the outside, the black façade looks more like the entrance to a deviant dungeon than a fine dining experience. Venture round the back, and grab a seat in the courtyard – a space that the restaurant shares with cutting edge Galeria Vemelho – or inside where the narrow space would be claustrophobic were it not for the bustle of the kitchen seen behind a glass wall. The gnocchi were excellent, in a rich, tomato and lamb sauce, and the cupim – a cheap cut from the hump of the zebu cow, which can be tough – was served semi-shredded and wholly delicious. This is good eating that is easy on the pocket too, right down to the wine menu with its simple sauvignon blancs. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3151 3085/ salgastronomia.com.br). Open noon3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-3pm, 8.30pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$38-$68; couvert R$6-$12. ITALIAN Tappo Trattoria This dinky corridor of a restaurant, only ten tables long, serves fantastic Italian food and has a surprisingly romantic and cosy ambience to match. The carpaccio of filet mignon is succulent, while the ricotta balls cooked in a rich tomato

Critics’ choice No corkage

11.30am-4pm, 6-11.30pm Mon-Thu; 11.30am-11.30pm Fri, Sat; 11.30am10pm Sun. Fixed price R$72 (dinner); R$78 (lunch). PERUVIAN Killa The food at this amiable local eatery is not just Peruvian, but novoandina – ‘new Andean’. Peruvian cuisine is increasingly important and the novoandina concept is to mix pre-Hispanic cooking techniques with other elements like European cooking. Here at Killa, the emphasis is on Peru’s wonderful signature dish: the raw fish salad, ceviche. And it’s delicious, with lightly-flavoured, delicate flakes of fish gently bathed in citric flavours. Our only criticism? The small portions, which might leave customers with a big appetite still hungry after lunch. Killa recently moved to a new, bigger space just three blocks down the road from its original home. Rua Padre Chico 324 (08551 8511/killa.com.br). Open 7-11.30pm Tue-Thu; 7pm-midnight Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$39. Japanese Zendô Head straight for a

seat at the counter, order the combinado do chef (R$80) and prepare to be immersed in the Brazilian-Japanese creations that sushi purists would call sacrilege; others, a damn good contemporary twist. The sashimi here is fabulously fresh. We tried haro hot – shimeji mushrooms wrapped inside crunchy spring-roll batter, followed by the pantanal – salmon uramaki topped with deep fried kale. Be prepared to arrive with an open mind, and leave with a belly swelling to sumo-sized proportions. Rua Desembargador do Vale 438, Perdizes (3554 3433/zendosushi. com.br). Open 7-11pm Tue; noon-3pm; 7-11pm Wed, Thu; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Friday; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; 1-4pm Sun. Main courses set for one from R$44.90; lunch R$29.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

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Food & Drink

MIDDLE EASTERN Kebabel ‘Beer and

Marcel Dining out in São Paulo can be an expensive pastime, and drinking wine can as much as double the bill. Bring your own special bottle to contemporary French eatery Marcel, where the corkage costs a big, fat zero. Martín Fierro Do a decent steak justice with a sublime bottle of red. At this Argentinian steakhouse, you can bring your own wine and only pay corkage (R$25 per bottle) after the second bottle. Robin des Bois Hearty French fare – moulesfrites and the like – is the order of the day at this cosy bistro. Pay no corkage if you dine with your own wine.

INTERNATIONAL Arturito Intimate dark wood panelling, austere lighting, and stylish seating with cushions and throw pillows distinguish this luxurious member of the São Paulo dining scene. It’s positively bursting at the weekend, since word got around about the restaurant and its trendy Argentinian chef and co-proprietor, Paola Carosella, and it’s now on the must-do list of every well-to-do paulistano. The wonderfully varied and ever-changing menu includes some uncommon dishes for Brazil, such as leg of lamb, ceviche (raw fish marinated in citrus juices) and the Argentinian specialty of grilled sweetbreads. The menu also features outstanding classics: freshly made pasta, prime beef (try the exquisite ojo de bife) and pork as well as an extensive wine list. Rua Artur Azevedo 542, Pinheiros (3063 4951/arturito.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Thu, Fri; 12.304pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$103; lunch R$45$56. VEGETARIAN Casa Prema When hunger hits at lunchtime, head to this modest little Pinheiros restaurant for home-

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JAPANESE Dô Hidden away on an unprepossessing back street of Pinheiros, Dô offers a good deal in a bijou package: quality Japanese food at comparatively reasonable prices, in a dining room with a cool, modern design aesthetic. The combo platters are pleasingly flexible, and traditionalists will delight in the dearth of cream cheese and mayonnaise. It’s also one of the few places in which the succulent white fish sashimi is a highlight rather than a disappointment. The location, low lighting and intimate size make this an ideal trysting spot. Rua Padre Carvalho 224, Pinheiros (3816 3958/ restaurantedo.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 7pmmidnight Sat. Prices sushi set for one from R$61; lunch R$34.

BRAZILIAN Feijoada da Lana Most paulistanos have a favourite place to eat feijoada – the heavy stew of smoked and sun-dried meats that’s brewed up in cauldrons with black beans and served with rice, kale, orange slices and farofa (toasted manioc flour). Lana, a journalist by trade, offers her hugely popular version inside a small but charming Vila Madalena house, where the rich stew might not be as elaborate as some of the more expensive varieties, but where smiling service and hearty goodness are guaranteed. Settle in for a long Saturday afternoon session, and wallow in a delightful food-induced paralysis. Rua

VEGETARIAN Integrão This simple

family restaurant has been serving fantastic vegetarian and macrobiotic dishes for more than thirty years. Try the grilled salmon with wholegrain rice or the delicious prato normal, with rice, manioc balls, a tofu pancake and a green side salad. This is one of the few à la carte vegetarian spots in town, but while you’ll find juice and (non-alcoholic) beer on the menu, the restaurant’s macrobiotic focus means that no sodas are sold here. Rua Joaquim Antunes 377, Pinheiros (3085 3707/integrao.com.br). Open 11.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am5pm Sat. Main courses R$19.25-$36.

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BRAZILIAN Consulado Mineiro Step into this creaky yellow house and you may feel like a João Guimarães Rosa character (Brazil’s most famous modernist novelist was from the state of Minas Gerais). The homey atmosphere, wooden tables and paintings of the Minas countryside evoke well-preserved colonial towns, like Ouro Preto. As is the custom in Minas, all the plates are intended for two, but really, a third person could easily partake in this hearty, reasonably-priced meal. Try the tutu especial or the tutu à Mineira, the most famous dishes from this huge central state. The former comes with beans, sausage and eggs, pork cutlets and mandioca (manioc) with banana, a couve salad (chopped and steamed kale, with garlic and butter), and rice. If you’re in the mood for home cooking as opposed to a refined meal, this is the place. Praça Benedito Calixto 74, Pinheiros (3088 6055/3064 3882/ consuladomineiro.com.br). Open noonmidnight Tue-Fri; noon-8pm Sat; noon11pm Sun. Main courses R$54-$71 for two; lunch R$20.90-$28.

New in town Esquina Mocotó

in awe as the Japanese veteran plys his trade with precision behind the counter, all while keeping up a good-humoured banter. The sushi sets, while not cheap (R$70 for 14 pieces; R$150 for a more elaborate 16 pieces), are good value, and the variety, always seasonal, is truly impressive. Avenida Pedroso de Moraes 393, Pinheiros (3813 1586/hamatyo. com.br). Open 6.30-11pm Mon-Sat. Prices sushi set for one R$70-$150.

Food & Drink

cooked lacto-vegetarian fare, though as the place fills up, don’t be surprised to find yourself sharing a table. Follow your fellow diners’ footsteps and make more than one trip to the buffet table – the choice, which changes daily, is impressive. The mango and pineapple chutneys are packed with flavour and make the perfect complement to the sweet potato kibe and the tofu curry. The buzz of the lunchtime rush lends some energy and atmosphere to a space that might otherwise feel a little shabby. Rua Diogo Moreira 312, Pinheiros (3815 1448/casaprema.com/inicial.html). Metrô 4, Faria Lima.Open 11.30am3pm Mon-Fri; noon-3.30pm Sat. Prices buffet R$19 or $31.20 per kilo.

Mocotó is a São Paulo living legend – a no-frills barrestaurant, where the faithful and the uninitiated queue for hours at weekends to eat hearty North-Eastern fare. The latest chapter in the saga is the newly opened, Esquina Mocotó, chef Rodrigo Oliveira’s colourful spotnext-door. With the same dedication to sourcing the best Brazilian produce, Oliveira is serving up a smaller but more sophisticated menu here. There’s even a sommelier, and cocktails made using artisanal cachaças, naturally. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1104, Vila Medeiros (2949 7049/esquinamocoto.com.br). Prices main courses R$26.90-$41.90; lunch R$34.90.

Aspicuelta 421, Vila Madalena (3814 9191). Open noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-5:30pm Sat, Sun. Lunch midweek feijoada R$30; weekend feijoada and unlimited caipirinhas R$55. ECLECTIC Feed Food The leafy backyard restaurant of hip boutiquecum-gallery Cartel 011, Feed Food serves up dishes as eclectic as the venue. The chef doesn’t always hit the mark, as we discovered with a somewhat bland pumpkin risotto (R$27). A better choice were the noodles crunch com frango ao curry (R$27) – a chicken curry topped with noodles, shaved carrot, and toasted almonds. And the wonderfully creative caipirinhas – think green fig and lime, or banana with ginger and rum – are unmissable. The same goes for the tapioca pudim (R$10), a beautifully presented dessert topped with baba de moça (a creamy egg yolk and coconut sweet) and a solitary purple pitanga berry. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (4305 7727). Open noon-5pm Mon, Tue; noon-10pm Wed-Sat. Main courses R$27-$39. VEGETARIAN Goshala Rustic heavy

woods, from the front door to the tables and chairs inside, exude an understated

quality from the get go at this recently opened veggie spot. An internal courtyard affords more seating and looks like a promising alfresco dining spot away from the noisy street. The menu is for the most part Brazilian, with an Indian twist – aromatic and gently spicy dishes sit alongside contemporary Brazilian fare. We started with cheese and palmfruit samosas and a baked Camembert, served with relish and a chapati. For mains, the tangy, aromatic paneer curry was a highlight. Look out, too, for the dish of the day (R$22 or R$26 including dessert), chalked up on the blackboard and published on the website each day. Rua dos Pinheiros 267, Pinheiros (3063 0367/goshala.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7-10pm Thu-Sat. Main courses R$22-$23; lunch R$22$26. JAPANESE Hamatyo Known universally as ‘that little place on Pedroso’, it takes only 20 bottoms to fill all the seats at this cosy, informal Pinheiros spot. There are no pratos quentes (hot dishes) here – chef Ryoichi Yoshida serves only sushi and sashimi, and has earned a solid reputation for his careful selection of ingredients, as well as the personal attention he gives to each customer. Watch

BRAZILIAN Las Chicas Gourmet Garage Chefs Carla Pernambuco and Carolina Brandão, of restaurant Carlota fame, have turned their epicurean expertise to this smaller, more informal venture in Pinheiros. Las Chicas is an all-day eaterie in a converted garage, whose small space has been filled with bright colours and cutesy, feminine touches. Go for breakfast, lunch, a light evening bite or just a post-shoppingspree coffee (it’s a five-minute walk from the Rua Oscar Freire boutiques). The lunch buffet may be pricey, but the quality is excellent, with interesting salads and hot dishes such as roast beef and sweet potato purée with orange. Indulge a sweet tooth with a capuccino with doce de leite or one of the chocolate desserts, served in adorable, tiny tin mugs. Rua Oscar Freire 1607, Pinheiros (3063 0533/ laschicas.net.br). Metrô 2, Clínicas. Open 9am-11pm Mon-Sat; 9am-6pm Sun. Main courses R$37-$48; lunch R$45-$55.

FRENCH Le Jazz Brasserie A small French bistro with a big reputation, Le Jazz is packed, more often than not. Having secured a table, we opted for the tabu de charcuterie starter (R$38.50). Its deep, rich terrine de campagne (a pâté-like mix of meats) and magret fumé (smoked duck breast) were instant hits, as were the rillettes (pâté), torresmo (crunchy pork fat), and the variety of meats and pickles. If we’d left at this point, all would have been tudo de bom. But on we went. Perhaps thanks to a flustered kitchen in the Friday night rush, the entrecôte (R$38.50) came sadly overcooked; and the tagine de cordeiro (lamb tagine, R$5) – well, the chef must be in love, as they say round here. Oversalted, its sublime touches were lost in translation. Possibly we were unlucky, given those superb starters, but Le Jazz left these particular diners singing les bleus. Rua dos Pinheiros 254, Pinheiros (2359 8141/lejazz.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-3.30pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$21-$43; couvert R$5.50.

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Food & Drink

BARBECUE Martín Fierro If meat’s in order tonight, then this enduringly popular Argentinian restaurant may be just the ticket. There are a handful of Brazilian cuts on the menu; but aside from those, you can pretend you’re in Buenos Aires to excellent effect with the very good bife de chorizo (sirloin) and the asado de tira (beef thin ribs). The side salad is possibly a little too simple – just like in Buenos Aires, in fact – but some empanadas to start with are a good idea. Rua Aspicuelta 683, Vila Madalena (3814 6747/martinfierro.com.br). Open noon-midnight daily. Main courses R$21-$78; couvert R$4.10. ECLECTIC Miya The talented young

chef Flávio Miyamura cut his teeth at some of the city’s top contemporary restaurants before setting up Miya in 2012, in a two-storey house in Pinheiros. The small eatery has an unassuming charm, with a long, brown leather banquette lining one of the exposed brick walls, while upstairs, an intimate cluster of tables leads through to the waiting area-cum-bar, set on an open-air terrace. As for the food, the menu is compact and eclectic, drawing inspiration from throughout Miyamura’s career. Don’t miss the foie gras terrine starter (R$42), or the crispy squid tempura. For mains, the pork with miso, Japanese chard and a sesame sauce (R$38) is a good choice. Rice dishes – creamy rice with duck, and a dark beer risotto with caramelised onions – are delicately sized, and served on striking, curved-rim plates. Rua Fradique Coutinho 47, Pinheiros (3259 8760/restaurantemiya.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight TueFri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$79; lunch R$45 (Tue-Fri).

MIDDLE EASTERN Pita Kebab The

owners of this local bar and eaterie may be Italian, but they make a mean kebab with their own blend of spices. Lamb and kafta kebabs are the stars of the show, served either wrapped up in pitta bread, or on their own with salad. For something lighter, go for the mini falafel balls or, for an Italian twist, grilled courgettes in raspberry vinegar. To drink, don’t miss the refreshing homemade lemonade with mint (suco de limão com hortelã) or the eclectic beer menu. Thursday and Friday nights get busy with a student crowd, packing out the leafy, glass-covered patio. Rua Francisco Leitão 282, Pinheiros (3774 1790/pitakebabbar.com.br). Open noon1am Mon-Thu; noon-2am Fri; 1pm-2am Sat; 1pm-1am Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$13-$20.90.

Rua Thomaz Gonzaga, 51 Liberdade São Paulo - SP | Tel.: 11 3277.4286 Open Monday to Saturday: 11am - 3pm | 6 - 10.30pm Sundays: 11am - 3pm | 6 - 9pm www.lamenkazu.com.br

ITALIAN Spadaccino The sight of Spadaccino – a traditional Italian family restaurant with a yard out front – in the midst of the Vila Madalena nighttime chaos is like coming across the Red Cross in the midst of battle. It’s the sort of place where the sight of three generations of the same family eating together is the rule, rather than the exception, and where they know how to do traditional Italian food brilliantly. The prawn risotto is tasty and has half a dozen big meaty prawns in it; the penne with mushrooms is spot on, and the crème brûlée is deliciously rich, and green – yes, green – with a perfectly

crunchy crust on top. Rua Mourato Coelho 1267, Vila Madalena (3032 8605 /spadaccino.com.br). Open 7-11pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 10am-1am Sat; noonmidnight Sun. Main courses R$30$53; lunch R$32-$42; couvert R$8. PERUVIAN Suri Ceviche takes centre stage at this contemporary Pinheiros restaurant, with ten different varieties on the menu. But this isn’t ordinary ceviche. Here, it’s been given a thoroughly modern makeover, with varying degrees of success. The clasico with corvina (white fish), onion, lime and coriander is a safe bet. The chifa, with prawn, squid and corvina is tender and tasty. But the tierra y mar, with tuna, sour cream and bacon, is an unusual and borderline unpleasant combo. The portions are generous, so going with a group means more options to try, whilst solo diners can perch at the bar and watch the chefs in action. Rua Mateus Grou 488, Pinheiros (3034 1763/suri. com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$65; couvert R$10.

NORTH AFRICAN Tanger With exposed

brickwork, colourful tiling and a palette of deep, earthy reds and yellows, Tanger is more a treat for the eyes than the taste-buds. This upscale Moroccan restaurant, recently relocated to an increasingly restaurant-packed part of Vila Madalena, serves an assortment of mezzes, tagines and couscous dishes. The Royal Couscous, a signature dish of succulent lamb, is particularly good, though the set lunch menu can be more miss than hit. The busiest nights are at the weekend and on Wednesdays, when there’s a live belly dance performance. Rua Harmonia 359, Vila Madalena (3037 7223/restaurantetanger.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$21-$45; lunch R$19.50$29.50; couvert R$7.50.

ITALIAN Vinheria Percussi Founded

in 1985 by Luciano Percussi, an Italian from Liguria, Vinheria Percussi quickly became a classic. Luciano’s daughter Silvia Percussi now runs the kitchen, while her brother Lamberto oversees the salon and the excellent wine cellar. The scaloppine di pollo al limone con gnocchi di ricotta e spinaci (chicken in lemon sauce with spinach and ricotta gnocchi) and the marvellous filetto al gorgonzola (filet mignon covered in gorgonzola sauce) are standout dishes. To finish, try the wonderful classic tiramisu made with mascarpone and coffee. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 523, Pinheiros (3088 4920/vinheriapercussi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7.30pm-1am Sat; noon-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$105; lunch R$42; couvert R$6.90-$8.10.

AUSTRIAN Wolf’s Garten Markus, from the Alpine ski resort of Lech, opened Wolf’s Garten with his Brazilian wife Monica in 2007, bringing the only Austrian-speciality restaurant to town. Markus, who takes pride in delivering the food to your table himself more often than not, has made this cosy home a surprising delight. Try the perfectly-

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ASIAN Yakissoba da Vila This informal little eaterie, with chopstick and bowl stencils covering the outside wall, is ideal for picking up a stir fry or ordering a delivery. It’s popular for not just its tasty food but also for the reasonable prices – the 33 varieties of yakissoba start from R$8.50. If indecision is your middle name, then go straight for the special yakissoba with beef, shrimp, chicken and mushroom, and leave the tough decision-making to which type of fresh fruit juice to have. Rua Fradique Coutinho 695, Pinheiros (3032 2785). Open noon-10pm Mon- Thu; noon11pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$8.50$25. Cash and debit cards only.

Jardins BRAZILIAN Amadeus The Masano family’s passion for seafood has reached the second generation. Young chef Bella Masano practically grew up in Amadeus’s dining room, and then completed her studies at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris. For an unforgettable experience, go for the richly savoury moqueca da

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casa, a Bahian-style fish stew made with palm oil, fish and shrimp, cooked in a clay dish. A slightly lighter option is the camarão frisson no negro (flambéed shrimp with black rice). Another great option is the dessert with banana and tamarind sauce, while the chocolate ice-cream and coffee liquor will leave you longing for more. Rua Haddock Lobo 807, Jardim Paulista (3061 2859/ restauranteamadeus.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm, 6pmmidnight Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-4.30pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$58$178; lunch R$72; couvert R$12-$17.

filling) is on the menu, you’d be a fool to resist. Rua Bela Cintra 1343, Jardim Paulista (3062 3727/apfel.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista. Open 11.30am-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm, 7.30-11.30pm Sat; 11.30am-4pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$38; lunch R$24. Other location Rua Dom José de Barros 99, Centro (3256 7909).

BRAZILIAN Brasil a Gosto Ready for a taste of the Amazon? Chef Ana Luiza Trajano floats the finest ingredients of the jungle river to your table. Start your adventure by ordering the lovely strawberry and caju caipirinha, artfully VEGETARIAN Apfel decorated with the head It’s food with a of the caju fruit (the conscience at Apfel, unfamiliar, inedible a ri le Ga whose philosophy cover of the cashew Zipper os Unidos goes beyond just nut). The mini acarajé a EstadJardins, u R vegetarianism: the appetiser is a treat in 1494, aleria. restaurant’s cultural which you assemble zipperg .br agenda includes shrimp, avocado, pumpkin com hosting evening walks and the delicious hot sauce around the Centro as well and onion vinaigrette into as funding small theatre groups. a brilliant, self-made recreation of the Set in a delightful ivy-covered townhouse classic Bahian sandwich. For a main in Jardins, with a second location course, try the abadejo grelhado com downtown, Apfel’s service is efficient and crosta de baru (grilled haddock with its friendly and the seasonally-changing a crust of Brazilian baru nut), or the menu spot on, featuring delights such as grilled pirarucu – the largest freshwater garlic mushrooms on wholemeal toast, fish in the world. Finish off with a and cauliflower gratin. But take it from tasting of the plum or banana cachaça us: when the nhoque de mandioquinha – the sugar-cane tipple here reaches recheado com queijo de cabra (sweet the level of a fine cognac. Reservations parsnip gnocchi with goat’s cheese are recommended. Rua Azevedo de

IN THE AREA

Amaral 70, Jardim Paulista (3086 3565/ brasilagosto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Thu; noon-5pm, 7pm1am Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$46-$90; lunch R$44; couvert R$8-$12. CONTEMPORARY Chez MIS The modern design aesthetic and a novel location in the garden of the MIS (Museu da Imagem e do Som) have made Chez MIS an instant hit with a fashionable crowd. So if you have to wait for a table, kick things off with a cocktail by the bar – though not, perhaps, the pisco sour (R$27), which was all pisco and not enough sour. Team your drink with the sublime cheesy fried polenta sticks (R$20) and goats cheese and grape bruschetta (R$25). Once seated, the cheeseburger (R$34) is a well-proportioned, tasty hunk of ground beef that was only let down on our visit by lukewarm shoestring fries. The mozzarella-filled gnocchi (R$41) is a safe bet, deliciously rich and covered in a nutmeggy cream sauce and topped with crunchy bread crumbs. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (3467 3441/chez.com.br/chezmis). Open noon3pm; 6pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$32-$109.

Food & Drink

cooked lamb cutlet, or the house special duck breast, served with banana da terra – plantain – followed by a phenomenal apfelstrudel. It’s not all fondue on the slopes. Rua Lisboa 284, Pinheiros (3088 4367/wolfsgarten.com) Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses R$38-$51; lunch R$23$31; couvert R$9.

BRAZILIAN Dalva e Dito When in Brazil, do as the Brazilians do with a daily dose of rice and beans. A taste of traditional Brazilian cooking at Dalva e Dito may just be the most expensive rice

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Food & Drink

and beans you can eat in São Paulo, but many would argue that it’s worth the cost. Chef Alex Atala, whose culinary prowess has gone global, has plucked the best of regional dishes from across the country at this sister restaurant to D.O.M. Unusual local ingredients from the Amazon to the cerrado create some really unique tastes such as the surubim, a fresh water fish served with a lemongrass sauce and jambu – a lip-tingling green herb. Choose from two types of moqueca – capixaba or the spicier baiana. To complete the experience, sit by the big kitchen window to watch the chefs at work. Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Jardim Paulista (3068 4444/dalvaedito.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon- 3pm, 7pm-3am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42$107; lunch R$55; couvert R$8-R$16.

what we mean when you try the bigoli (thick strands of pasta, shaped using a special machine) with duck and juniper sauce (R$54). One bite and you’ll realise that you’re eating the same spectacular pasta you’d eat at the Fasano – but for less. Avenida Cidade Jardim 60, Jardim Europa (3062 6000/girarrosto.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sun (pizza only). Main courses R$41-R$-69; couvert R$12.50. BRAZILIAN Maní Tucked away on

a classy, quiet street in Jardins, Maní manages to be contemporary and sophisticated and yet artfully unpretentious. Whether you choose a table inside or out, you’re assured of an excellent meal amid the natural, earthy ambience of one of São Paulo’s most popular and innovative SPANISH Eñe The restaurants. The Brazilian capital of modern cuisine is gastronomy was still served here with ie p n a c aching for a signature flair, and chefs The pe avours are t fl Spanish addition Daniel Redondo s robuse’s cooking is It as recently as 2007, and Helena Rizzo what Eñ ll about when the twin brothers deserve all the praise a Sergio and Javier they’ve received for Torres Martinez from their creative, wideBarcelona stepped onto ranging menu. Try their the culinary scene with this small, highaward-winning fish entrée served with quality, Catalan-influenced restaurant. tucupi and bananas; or the roast beef in All concrete and dark wood on the a lapsang souchong crust. Reservations outside, inside the space is sleek lines strongly recommended. Rua Joaquim and smooth surfaces. The restaurant’s Antunes 210, Jardim Paulistano (3062 preoccupation with beauty extends 7458/manimanioca.com.br). Open to the food – the menu’s selection of noon-3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noonfish and vibrant vegetables with bold 3pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Fri; 1-4pm, Spanish spices are all beautifully 8.30pm-12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. presented. Rua Dr. Mário Ferraz Main courses R$35-$68; lunch R$35; 213, Jardim Europa (3816 4333/ couvert R$13-$15. enerestaurante.com.br). Open noonFRENCH Marcel The lone weak point 3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noonof this excellent restaurant is its location 3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 1pm-4pm, 8pm-1am inside a tasteless block of short-let flats. Sat. Main courses R$48-$68; lunch But get past that and you’ll be presented R$47; couvert R$15. with a set of unforgettable dishes, ITALIAN Fasano Head right through superbly executed by chef Raphael the elegant lobby of the Fasano hotel Despirite. A starter of frogs’ legs in to the eponymous restaurant – a grand garlic cream is a case in point; as are the atrium awash with black marble and impeccable soufflés – whether they be dark wood in an unmistakeable, classic of the smoky seafood variety, or a sweet 1930s style. The best dishes, which don’t dessert soufflé of cupuaçu – just some come cheap, include the silky, perfumed of the unusual dishes that make this fine raviolini d’Anitra al profumo d’arancia restaurant such a memorable experience. (R$99) – pasta filled with duck meat and Rua da Consolação 3555, Jardim orange sauce, an inspired deconstruction Paulista (3064 3089/marcelrestaurante. influenced by the classic French canard com.br). Open noon-2.30pm, 7pmà l’orange – and the costoletta di vitello midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight alla Milanese (veal Milanese, R$113), a Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main classic dish that’s been on the menu here courses R$39-$107; lunch R$42-$48; since the distant ’90s, when the Italian couvert R$7.80-$12.80. chef Luciano Boseggia was at the helm.. ITALIAN Margherita Allow yourself Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista to be drawn to the brightly-lit, inviting (3062 4000/fasano.com.br). Open aspect of this pizzeria, just off Avenida 7.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses Paulista. Inside, red-and-white checked R$89-$270; couvert R$29. tablecloths are reminiscent of a ITALIAN Girarrosto A jaw-dropping traditional Italian pizzeria, though the R$10 million was allegedly spent on this menu also includes Brazilian touches immense Italian eatery, which opened such as requeijão (cream cheese) in early 2012 in the spot formerly home toppings. The namesake pizza is a to one of the city’s best-loved bars, must, while slightly more adventurous Pandoro. After a series of disappointing diners might like to try the Campesina, early reviews, the restaurant’s fortunes featuring aubergine, parmesan cheese have been on the up since the arrival of and olives. Alameda Tiête 255, Jardim Italian chef Salvatore Loi, who spent Paulista (2714 3000/margherita.com.br). 13 years at the forefront of the Fasano Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6.30pmbefore his move to Girarrosto. Loi takes 1.30am Sun-Thu; 6.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. perfection to extremes. You’ll understand Main courses R$42-$59.

GO FOR

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ITALIAN Primo Basílico Well-heeled

families wait patiently for tables on Sunday evenings at this popular yet relaxed spot, taking the edge off their hunger with bread stuffed with oozing buffalo cream cheese and zingy calabresa. The restaurant is buzzing most other nights too, though getting a table doesn’t pose such a problem. Three tables outside offer an alfresco option, though most of the action is inside, where you can see the pizzas sliding in and out of a huge brick oven. The traditional pizza bases are ciabattaesque – thick and doughy – or there’s a

thin crust option too. Give the Brigitte a whirl if you’re feeling daring and you’ll discover what we did: that Brie, asparagus and honey is a surprisingly good combo. Committed carnivores should go for an Obelix, whose wild-boar sausage will satisfy any self-respecting Gaul. Avenida Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1864, Jardim América (3082 8027/ primobasilico.com.br). Open 6pm12.30am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-12.30am Sun. Main courses R$48-$63. MEDITERRANEAN Ráscal With six

branches throughout the city, Rascál spoils vegetarians silly with arguably the best salad bar in town. For R$55, you can get your fill of quiches, marinated vegetables, cheeses galore, breads and green salads from among the forty different items, not to mention the speciality hams and hot dishes. If the salad bar feels too much like a healthy option, the pizza corner is generous, as are the pasta and grill sections. Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulista (3816 3546/ rascal.com.br). Open noon-3.15pm, 7-10.15pm Mon-Thu; noon-3.15pm, 7-11.15pm Fri; noon-5.15pm, 7pm11.15pm Sat; noon-5.15pm, 7-10.15pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$65; buffet Other locations R$55-$65. throughout the city.

FRENCH Robin des Bois This cosy, candle-lit bistro named after Sherwood

Forest’s most famous bandido, with antique-frame mirrors and an intimate outdoor space. Don’t miss the Sherwood Special sharing platter (R$62) laden with pâté, creamy French cheeses, salad and dried fruits and nuts. The mussels in cream and white wine sauce (R$36) easily feeds two, and other hearty dishes include cassoulet and boeuf bourguignon. And if, like Friar Tuck, you should wake up with a sore head of a Sunday, their brunch (R$33, until 4pm) is a good hair of the dog with either a Bucks Fizz or Absolut Pepper Bloody Mary included. Rua Capote Valente 86, Jardim Paulista (3063 2795/robindesbois.com.br). Metrô 2, Clínicas. Open 7pm-midnight MonThu; 7pm-2am Fri; noon-2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$29$49; couvert R$5.80. BARBECUE Rodeio One of São Paulo’s

original churrascarias, Rodeio was for decades a favourite with the city’s wealthy elite, the aroma of sizzling meats mingling with that of expensive perfume. Until, that is, its glamour started to go up in the smoke of newer competitors. Rodeio has – contrary to expectations – hung on in there, and regained some of its original lustre with a modernising makeover. Its recentlyrising fortunes saw the opening of a second, slick branch, designed by illustrious architect Isay Weinfeld, inside the city’s luxury Shopping Iguatemi mall. Don’t miss the sliced picanha (top sirloin) and biro-biro rice studded with

bacon. Rua Haddock Lobo 1498, Jardim Paulista (3474 1333/rodeiosp.com. br). Open 11.30am-3.30pm, 6.30pmmidnight Mon-Fri; 11.30am-midnight Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun. Main courses R$80-$105; couvert R$24.50. Other location Shopping Iguatemi (See Shopping listings).

Food & Drink

FRENCH Paris 6 The ‘6’ in the name is for the Parisian 6th arrondissement, encompassing Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and the ornate decoration and low-lit interior of Paris 6 is a conspicuous replica of that trés chic neighbourhood. But Brazilian touches have snuck their way in here, too, from the big-screen TV showing futebol to the minor celebrities whose names adorn some of the dishes on the menu. The food seems better some days than it does others, though the steak frites and the house red are reliably good, and the almond trout – truite aux amandes – with mash is a buttery delight. The real draw here is that it stays open (and busy) 24 hours a day. Rua Haddock Lobo 1240, Jardim Paulista (3085 1595/paris6.com.br). Open 24 hours daily. Main courses R$36-$79; lunch R$39-$49; couvert R$12.

AMERICAN St. Louis Decked out in a smart, kitsch Americana style, this small, unpretentious US-style burger joint is a comfortable, well-managed spot that doesn’t try to be too many things to too many people. The result? A damn good burger that’s priced a touch more fairly than many other comparable São Paulo burgers. Fans of poivre will genuflect at the kitchen door after devouring the excellent Pepper Crust burger (R$28.50) – 220g of pepper-charred beef with Swiss cheese, grilled onions, crunchy potato sticks, pickles and Dijon mayo. Paired with the excellent fries and chased with raspberry lemonade, it’s a combo that teeters precariously on the brink of shock and awe. Rua Batataes 242, Jardim Paulista (3051 3435/stlouisburger.com.br). Open 6.30-10.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6.3011pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 6.30-11.30pm Sat; 6.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$18-$57. BRAZILIAN Tordesilhas Fans of Brazilian high gastronomy will not be disappointed by this rare example of a famous chef making truly

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Food & Drink

A space for Italian cuisine and culture

Open from Monday to Maonday from 12pm to 2am

The complete and best Italian restaurant

traditional dishes. Mara Salles was inspired by her roots in Pernambuco (a state on the north-east coast) to work mostly with local ingredients and to highlight regional dishes. Salles’s culinary wizardry is best sampled in the pato no tucupi (duck and manioc stew). For dessert, try the cupuaçu ice cream – a mind-blowingly tangy Amazonian fruit. Tordesilhas regulars will miss the restaurant’s excellentvalue tasting menu, which was taken off the menu following a change of address in May 2013, to the upmarket Jardins neighbourhood. Alameda Tietê 489, Jardim Paulista (3107 7444/ tordesilhas.com). Open 5pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$53-$77.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia STEAKHOUSE Baby Beef Rubaiyat The Iglesias family has over the years mastered the art of raising cattle. Their excellent home-reared beef is served in restaurants that combine austerity with an elegant modernity, and impeccable service. The branches on Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and Alameda Santos are both favourites for business meetings. To see and be seen, however, park up among the beautiful people under the giant fig tree of the sister restaurant, A Figueira Rubaiyat, in Jardins. International jetsetters will also find a Rubaiyat restaurant in Madrid as well as Buenos Aires. It’s big business – the whole portfolio was bought by an investment fund for a whopping $59.5 million in 2012. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2954, Itaim Bibi (3165 8888/ rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-12.30am Fri, Sat; noon6pm Sun. Main courses R$76-$215.

Other locations Alameda Santos 86, Paraíso (3170 5100) JAPANESE Kinoshita Improvisation is the key at this Japanese sensation. Kinoshita practises a concept called Kappo cuisine: immaculately presented, unique creations prepared spontaneously by master sushi chef Tsuyoshi Murakami and his team. After a hearty welcome, the maître d’ directs you to menu gems such as mini Nametaki mushrooms caramelised in lemon and Shoyu conserve, delicately served in a hollowed lime. Innovations such as scallops and cod roe served in a lime and orange juice, downed in a martini glass, are joys to sample – with the accompanying steep price, of course. Rua Jacques Félix 405, Vila Nova Conceição (3849 6940/ restaurantekinoshita.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$30-$75; lunch R$49-$68; couvert R$8. PERUVIAN La Mar Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently. Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu. Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce. The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth. Rua Tabapuã 1410, Itaim Bibi (3073 1213/ lamarcebicheria.com). Open noon-3pm,

7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$60; lunch R$42. JAPANESE Nagayama Proudly serving

some of the tenderest, freshest fish in town, the thoroughly authentic Nagayama isn’t cheap; but it’s a pure delight, from the cosy, comfortable space and the welcoming service to the virtuoso sushi and sashimi. The delicious sushi and sashimi set for two (R$124) is easily enough for three; and try, too, the exquisite baterá – it’s a pressed rice disc jewelled with chives and dotted with tiny crunches of salmon roe, topped with even crunchier tempura (R$16 for two). Brilliant. Rua Bandeira Paulista 355 and 369, Itaim Bibi (3079 7553/nagayama.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm12.30am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-12.30am Sat. Main courses R$37-$72.50; lunch Other R$45.50; couvert R$6. location Rua da Consolação 3397, Jardim Paulista (3064 0110). ITALIAN Spago At first sight, the menu at this latest venture from Zena Caffé chef Carlos Bertolazzi is startlingly uninventive: a smallish set of simple classics like spaghetti and meatballs (R$29) and chicken marsala (from R$29). But sometimes there’s comfort in the classics, which is where Bertalozzi’s kitchen shines. Spago’s spaghetti and meatballs will forever alter your perception of the dish. The meatballs are made from ground picanha (top sirloin) and doused in a tomato sauce that has been simmered for six hours, adding up to a satisfying, complex experience. The frozen banoffee pie is a transcendent bulls-eye of a dessert. And all for a fair price – something that’s not so easy to

Ricardo D’Angelo/PRESS IMAGE

Trattoria, Buffet, Wine Cellar, Bar and Whisky Club

Free transfers from the city’s main hotels

Rua Treze de Maio, 848 Bela Vista - São Paulo/SP Phone: 11 2842.9620 www.villatavola.com.br

Crunch time Paca (a large rodent) with grilled pineapple (R$360, serves 4) is on the limited-edition menu at Brasil a Gosto, inspired by the chef Ana Luiza Trajano’s visit to the Yawanawá tribe in the Amazon. Until September. See listings.

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Ibirapuera & Moema MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively TexMex themed bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families. The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheese-and-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos, accompanied by a fun, fairly lowbrow selection of cocktails. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday. Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/sisenor.com.br). Open noon-3pm; 6pm-midnight MonFri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42. Other locations Citywide.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana CHINESE Chi Fu Just a quick hop from Liberdade Metrô lies the recently

renovated Chi Fu. The clientele, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date). There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephonedirectory-sized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best. The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap. Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am-4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN STEAKHOUSE Dinho’s The star of the

meaty menu at Dinho’s is the US-style prime rib – all 700g of it, packed with flavour and an immense Fred Flintstonestyle bone. The steakhouse, which was recently given a modernising makeover, draws a lunchtime crowd of top execs from the nearby Avenida Paulista. For a younger crowd, head to the former Mabella e Ton Ton in Itaim Bibi, owned by the same family and rebranded in 2012 as Dinho’s Steak House (Rua Jerônimo Da Veiga 153). Alameda Santos 45, Paraíso (3016-5333/dinhos.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$58$110; couvert R$18. Other location Rua Jerônimo Veiga 153, Itaim Bibi (3079 1049).

JAPANESE Shin-Zushi It might be set on an isolated Paraíso corner away from Liberdade, São Paulo’s traditional Japanese neighbourhood, but Shin-Zushi still delights fans of Japanese food, and was awarded the best sushi in town by Estado de São Paulo’s demanding Paladar gastronomy magazine. The sushi is cut from top quality fish and it shows; while the rice dumpling, made from authentic Japanese grains, crumbles deliciously on the tongue. There’s also a good range of imported delicacies – if your wallet will stretch to it, try at least one toro tuna sushi – an unforgettable, if greasy, piece of tuna belly. Rua Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraíso (3889 8799). Metrô 1 or 2, Paraíso. Open 11.30am2pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat. 6-10pm Sun. Prices two sushi pieces R$14; lunch R$28; couvert R$8.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini ITALIAN Vicolo Nostro Hidden amongst the gleaming corporate towers of Berrini, Vicolo Nostro is one of the few quality restaurants in the area that opens beyond lunchtime. The vast terracotta-coloured space, with creepers growing up the walls, is popular for power lunches and business dinners, but not exclusively so. Expect authentic Italian food: it won the Ospitalità Italiana seal of

approval in 2011 for following the traditions of Italian cuisine to the letter. For mains, the chef’s recommendation of conger eel with a crab crust and black rice was impressive, though the cappelletti a little over-salted. It’s a touch on the pricey side, but if you’re good for it, the charm and good food make this an excellent choice for toasting that million-dollar contract. Rua Jataituba 29, Brooklin (5561 5287/ vicolonostro.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$39-$105; lunch R$38-$56; couvert R$16.

Food & Drink

find here in São Paulo. Rua Leopoldo Couto de Magalhães 681, Itaim Bibi (3078 0796). Open noon 3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Thu, Fri; noon-midnight Sat. Main courses R$26-$34.

The South SPANISH Maripili Paulistanos in search of authentic Spanish grub head straight for Maripili – a small, simple restaurant whose owner, chef and waiting staff all have Spanish roots. Try a pintxo de tortilla and follow it up with a nice cup of espresso; then close your eyes and imagine you’re in Madrid – because this potato tortilla has all the volume, texture and moisture you’d find at any good Spanish diner. Maripili also serves a very good gazpacho and rabo de toro (oxtail), cooked in red wine. Rua Alexandre Dumas 1152, Santo Amaro (5181 4422/ maripili.com.br). Open noon-5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$10$34.

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Bars & Cafes Bar listings Shake up Bar Numero How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites.

Kabul Tucked away in a two-storey house-turned-bar on a side street just off traffic-choked Rua da Consolação, Kabul offers a mixed bag of soulful musical styles to match its mixed drinks. Patrons sit in various earthtoned parlours decorated with abstract panels and paintings by local artists, while the bartenders hustle together orders of strawberry, kiwi or pineapple caipirinhas destined for tables full of twenty-something hipsters. There’s often standingroom only for the jammin’ live samba, soul and rock shows. Rua Pedro Taques 124, Consolação (2503 2810/ kabul.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 9pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices 600ml beer R$7.98; caipirinha R$14.95; cover R$10$20.

For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options. is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Papo, Pinga e Petisco This informal, lively bar is right on São Paulo’s bohemian frontline – on the bustling pavement of Praça Roosevelt, alongside a handful of alternative theatre companies. The bar’s name means ‘chat, cachaça and snacks’. There’s a cut-out of Elvis surrounded by flashing lights outside, racks of old vinyl inside, and its big wooden tables are invariably full of loud chat, expansive gestures and oh, go on then, a saideira: the Brazilian version of one for the road. Praça Roosevelt 118, Centro (3257 4106). Metrô 3, República. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-2.30am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11. No credit cards. Terraço Itália You could almost be in a London gentlemen’s club at the bar at the top of landmark Edificio Itália, if it weren’t for the floor-to-ceiling windows providing a 360-degree view of the city. Here on the 41st floor, you are above the

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Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Bar Léo Dating back to the 1940s, Bar Léo is a famous old-time botequim with echoes of the time when T-shirts and unaccompanied women weren’t allowed inside bars. Petiscos (appetisers) are excellent, especially the bolinhos de bacalhau (fried cod fish balls), though they’re only served on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The area directly around the bar can be sketchy at night, so it closes very early; but for early evening drinks, the boisterous, happy atmosphere is unbeatable. Rua Aurora 100, Santa Ifigênia (3221 0247/barleo.com.br). Metrô 1, Luz. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am–4pm Sat. Prices chope R$5.10.

exquisito.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6pm-1.30am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu; 6pm-late Fri, Sat; 6pm-1.30am Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$14.

When it comes to sexy hangouts, Bar Numero is downright X-rated, all dramatic spotlights, mirrors and sink-in leather sofas. It’s all about the cocktails here, with a brand new menu hot off the press, created by awardwinning barman Derivan de Souza. Join the glam gang sipping a cocktail: try the martini wasabi (an eye-watering R$38), or the Coco Fruit (see photo, R$38) – a mocktail featuring blackberries, raspberries, strawberry slices, raspberry syrup and coconut water. See listings. city’s other skyscrapers bar none, and even above the helicopters below. The unobstructed view comes at a cost: R$30 added to your bill, but it’s worth it. Settle into one of the brown leather chairs, and enjoy the classic vibe over a caipirinha with saké and basil while you gaze in wonder at the city below. The bar scores high on warm service, too. 41st floor, Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (2189 2929/terracoitalia.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-1am Mon-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$22; cover R$30.

Consolação & Higienópolis Exquisito! The giant murals and retro posters coupled with the colourful decor, voluble chatter and general sense of life give this bar-cum-restaurant a uniquely Latin American vibe. No wonder you sometimes have to queue for a table, even on a Sunday night. They serve food from all over the continent, but the ceviche is particularly recommended and the chilli con carne will feed three. Rua Bela Cintra 532, Consolação (3854 6522/

Sancho Bar y Tapas A classier alternative to Rua Augusta’s more lowrent watering holes, Sancho Bar y Tapas carries its Spanish theme from the menu – a mix of tapas dishes to share and individual pintxo-style portions of bread with ambrosial toppings, lined up along the long, underlit bar – through to the décor, with an eclecticism that takes in everything from vintage bullfighting posters to Basque flags. The music, too, blends Spanish chart tunes and rock, with the live flamenco guitar show a real treat for Mondays and Wednesdays (8.3010.30pm). Rua Augusta 1415, Consolação (3141 1956/sanchobarytapas.com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-1am Thu; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-3am Fri; 5.30pm-3am Sat; 5.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14. Z Carniceria This converted butcher’s shop makes no attempt to hide its origins, with stuffed cow heads, a gory butcher’s mural and butcher hooks hanging from rails on the wall. They say they’re not morbid, just raw, like crazy Rua Augusta, bustling past in the dark outside. We agree. The decor gives it a delightfully perverse, alternative feel, and the place buzzes happily to match with a crowd revving up for the nearby clubs. Rua Augusta 934, Consolação (2936 0934/ zcarniceria.com.br). Open 7pm-1am Tue, Wed; 7pm-2am Thu-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$14.90; minimum spend R$25-$30 (varies by night).

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Pé Pra Fora Stuck out on its lonesome, just far enough off the beaten track to have a Cheers-like quality, this bar is frequented by neighbourhood regulars. Pé Pra Fora has been serving cold ones for 42 years, and with quality service

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Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

The walls are covered with caricatures of famous personalities and photos of the 1960s. Pair your drinks with some of the best fried mandioca (fried yucca) in town, and dream of Rio. Rua Aspicuelta 644, Vila Madalena (3812 4342/posto6.com). Open 6pm-late Mon-Fri; 2pm-late Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.10; caipirinha R$14.40.

Food & Drink

too – when the waiters haven’t got one eye on the football match, that is. On the flipside, this is an excellent, no-fuss place to catch a game. The tables are scattered across the pavement in a large, airy space dominated by a wall painting of a bare foot kicking you onto the street, and the place is reliably bustling on lazy Saturday afternoons, when you can feast on what some hold to be the best feijoada in the city. Avenida Pompéia 2517, Perdizes (3672 4154/pepraforabar.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open noon-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-8pm Sat, Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$4.70; caipirinha R$11.10.

Queen’s Head For those seeking a pint in a pub-like atmosphere, the Queen’s Head pub on the ground floor of the Centro Brasileiro Britânico (Brazilian British Centre) might be a welcome stand-in for the real thing. And while it might feel more like a Disney-recreation of a pub than anything more genuine, concentrating on their wide selection of Scotch whiskies, or five beers on tap may lessen your inclination to gripe. If the live rock bands crashing about on stage at the weekend get too much, escape to the expansive tropical beer garden – a much-needed contrast to the windowless pub. Rua Tucambira 163, Pinheiros (3774 3778/queenshead.com.br). Open 5pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 5pm-2am Thu, Fri; 7pm-3am Sat. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$13; cover R$0-35.

Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bow-tied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel. But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic Vianna Bar Looking to escape the soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon. crowds after an afternoon at Downstairs is Sub Astor, the nearby Benedito Calixto a ritzy, decadent redSaturday market? Stop by and-black bar with some Vianna for food ranging of the best cocktails in from traditional pastas town. Rua Delfina 163, to Greek spanakopita Vila Madalena (3815 s ta ru (R$21.90) and Lebanese 1364/barastor.com. Tonic F as a e T kafta kebab (R$26.90), br/subastor.com.br). ermelh on’s gin, V as well as attentive Open 6pm-1am Mon; of Gord fruits d n le b A service. And if the 6pm-2am Tue, Wed; a, red berry te tar anise. weather’s good, linger 6pm-3am Thu; noonds n a on into the early evening, 3am Fri, Sat, noon-6pm R$25 where the sought-after tables Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; outside under the awning fill up caipirinha R$16.50. quickly with those out to enjoy a Brahma or a fruity caipirinha. Rua Cristiano Cachaçaria Paulista There are Viana 315, Pinheiros (3082 8228). Open seemingly as many varieties of cachaça, 6pm-2am Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat, Sun. the fiery, home-grown sugar-cane liquor Prices chope R$3; caipirinha R$11.90. that forms the basis of the caipirinha, as there are of Scotch whiskey. And Brazilians take just as much pride in their national drink as the Scots do in theirs. Jardins This bar has more than 300 varieties to Bar Numero This slick bar is in the choose from, and live music every night. uptown, top-ranking category, no doubt Rua Mourato Coelho 593, Vila Madalena whatsoever. Just to get up its striking (3815 4756/cachacariapaulista.com.br). walkway and through the door means Open 9pm-4am Fri-Sat. Prices 600ml a minimum spend of R$100 per person, beer R$6, caipirinha R$8; minimum spend plus a reservation; but if you get the R$20. chance to step inside, take it. The dramatic interior is emblematic of its Piratininga Welcome to ye olde São Paulo architect Isay Weinfeld’s virtuoso touch, at this intimate, low-lit live music joint. as is Número’s mysterious facade, where Everything from the decor (think faded a set of monolithic numbers in relief on sepia photos of the city) to the waiters, the wall, like the enigmatically placed dressed in flat caps and bow ties – some contents of a typesetter’s box, is the only of them have been working here since the sign the bar needs. Rua da Consolação bar opened twenty years ago – evokes 3585, Jardim Paulista (3061 3995/ days of yore, though it’s all done in a barnumero.com.br). Open 7pm-late thoroughly charming and tasteful way. Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; Up on the mezzanine, bands play jazz and caipirinha R$28; mimimum spend R$100MPB while down below, a mix of couples $200. and groups of all ages tap their toes whilst tucking into caipiroskas and pastéis. Rua Divine Wine Bar In a city in which Wisard 149, Vila Madalena (3032 9775/ a decent glass of wine can be hard to piratiningabar.com.br). Open 6pm-2am find without sitting down to eat, this is Mon-Thu; 6pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices a welcome addition to the nightscape. chope R$6.90; caipirinha R$12; cover With around fifty wines on the menu, charge R$12-$15. twenty of them are available by the glass, although the cheapest is a steep R$20. Posto 6 Smack bang on the busiest The clever Enomatic machine, which crossroads in Vila Madalena is this grand dispenses perfectly-preserved wine, is a old dame of choperias, probably the best good (though equally expensive) place to of the bars that crowd this buzzing corner.

GO FOR

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Food & Drink

start if you want to taste a few, in either a snifter (25ml), a slug (75ml) or a small bucket (160ml). A mere fifteen tables are packed cosily together in this intimate basement space, keeping the crowd small and select. Our only question: what’s with the loud disco music? Alameda Jaú 1844C, Jardim Paulista (3063 3961/divinewinebar.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista.Open 7pm1am Tue-Sat. Prices wine glass R$28$96; wine bottle R$76-$918. Noh On first impressions, Noh is exactly what you might imagine an upmarket bar in an expensive city to be – classy, low-lit and peopled by attractive punters clutching sophisticated drinks. But as the evening wears on and the covers band starts up, the bar’s true colours came shining through – more upscale Cheers than high-flying Gordon Gecko hangout. The decent, at times ambitious cocktail menu never quite hits the high notes the bar is going for – molecular flourishes like the Fresh Hot (R$23), a grape martini accompanied by a strawberry injected with chilli, are passable rather than revelatory. And the food – an international roll call of snacks from mini burgers to batatas bravas – was tasty, but nothing to write home about. Rua Bela Cintra 1709, Jardim Paulista (2609 3673/nohbar.com.br). Open 6-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 7pm-1.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; caipirinha R$18, cover R$20-R$70.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Eu Tu Eles Bang, smack in the middle of one of São Paulo’s proliferating financial centres, this spacious bar is a popular happy-hour hangout. The faux-rustic decor, with naked light bulbs and adobe mud walls, may seem slightly incongruous with the executive crowd, but the combination of good beers (including Serramalte and Quilmes), tasty bites – try the tapioca parcels with gorgonzola (R$19.90) – and handy location is a winning one. Sunday afternoon’s live pop-rock music draws a good-looking, flirtatious crowd. Anyone who has been in Salvador for more than a nanosecond will recognise the coloured strips of material hanging from the ceiling, from the Nosso Senhor do Bomfim church. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2902, Itaim Bibi (3071 4535/eutuelesbar.com.br). Open 6pm-1.30am Tue-Fri; 4pm-1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$7.70; caipirinha R$19.90; cover R$0-$40. Seo Gomes The Fifties-inspired decor and warm, inviting glow makes walking past Seo Gomes a tricky proposition. Sparkling tiles line the walls and floor, set off by a decidedly retro shade of green paint. And with smart waiters in flat caps buzzing around with trays of chopes, it wouldn’t seem out of place if Mad Men’s Don Draper were to walk in, light up a ciggie and order himself a whisky. A predominantly male (and often loud) crowd can drown out the live bossa nova; but the evening buffet is a definite plus for hungry drinkers. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 1214, Vila Olímpia (3846 3625/ seogomes.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15; cover R$7.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Choperia Liberdade A gloriously kitsch and raucous atmosphere prevails at this karaoke hangout in the heart of São Paulo’s Japanese district. The bar also has a big back room full of pool tables, which tends to fill up atmospherically with smoke from the grill. The food isn’t amazing, the dancefloor is more of an ad-hoc space cleared in the throng; and the karaoke singers tend to be more miss than hit; but it’s great for a messy, drunken night out. At weekends, it’s packed, and note that you’ll need to get your name down early if you want your three minutes of fame. Rua da Glória 523, Liberdade (3207 8783). Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 7pm-5am Tue-Thu; 7pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-5am Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$0-$10. Pacha Ynti Bar Salsa! Merengue! Mambo! They’re doing all that and the cha-cha-cha (possibly) here at Pacha Ynti, a cosy, low-lit Latin dancehall. Step through the doors and dance your corazón out; or simply park up on one of the rows of round tables with a mojito, and watch the smart-stepping duos kick up a storm. Rua 13 de Maio 192, Bela Vista (3257 9556/pachaynti.com.br). Open 10pm-4am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.90; caipirinha R$12-$18; cover R$12-$20. Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype and the varied awards, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts. Hopefully not though. Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/ velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm-12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm-12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite in the office-packed neighbourhood of Brooklin requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo. References to his work pepper the bar, from his cheery face in photos and caricatures lining the walls to excerpts from his books on the napkins, and even in the menu too, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book. Find savoury snacks like the delicious battered brie with chilli jam (R$30) on the menu under ‘piriris’ – a word of Veríssimo’s own invention, meaning little bites to eat. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar. com.br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am-2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

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Food & Drink

Café listings

New in town Mamusca

JUICE BAR Madureira Sucos In this

bright and breezy spot, a seat at the counter for açaí or coffee makes the ideal pitstop. The upstairs tables get packed out at lunchtime, when the huge portions of veggie torta – thick slices of cheesey quiche – make for an excellent choice. Rua João Cachoeira 217, Itaim Bibi (3078 7367/madureirasucos.com.br). Open 8am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am-10pm Sat-Sun. Prices cafezinho R$2.90; sandwiches R$10.95-$19.95.

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

BAKERY Itiriki This bakery in Liberdade

is packed with more than 500 varieties of Asian, European and Brazilian treats. Try Japanese specialities like the melonpan (R$4.20) – bread with a touch of vanilla essence and buttery peel, or the ichigo daifuku (R$3.90), made with strawberries, a layer of rice and bean paste. Rua dos Estudantes 24, Liberdade (3277 4939/ bakeryitiriki.com). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 8am-7pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.90; sandwiches R$3.50.

CAFÉ Gourmet Tea Company You’ll be greeted by a striking array of brightly coloured tins of tea behind the counter at this emporium-cum-tea-house. Park up at one of the few wooden tables to take part in a modern take on a tea ceremony. It involves a stopwatch and a quick-release teapot-and-cup-in-one contraption, and the result is – apparently – the perfect infusion. Rua Matheus Grou 89, Pinheiros (2936 4814/thegourmettea.com.br). Open 10am9pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.40; tea R$4.90; lunch R$19.70-$24.70. CAFÉ Sofá Café This funky two-storey

café is all mis-matched furniture and bright colours. Upstairs there’s a bright and airy meeting room that’s perfect for informal meetings. To eat? The menu covers light morning choices like yogurt with granola and honey, or the vitamina de café – a breakfast smoothie with banana, yogurt, honey, cinnamon and coffee. Avoid the lunchtime rush though – its proximity to Faria Lima draws the office crowds. Rua Bianchi Bertoldi 130, Pinheiros (3034 5830/sofacafe.com.br). Open 7.30am-6pm Mon-Wed; 7.30am9.30pm Thu, Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$4.50-$6.50.

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LANCHONETE Bar e Lanches Estadão

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

CAFÉ Forneria San Paolo Tis chic

diner–restaurant, with its glassed-in kitchen, hanging lamps, and surprisingly loud music, is always packed. The house has a large selection of ‘Italian-style’ sandwiches, plus hot dishes and salads. Rua Amauri 319, Itaim Bibi (3078 0099/restauranteforneria.com.br) Open noon-2am Sun-Wed; noon-3am Thu-Sat. Prices cafezinho R$6; sandwiches R$38$45. Other location Avenida Chedid Jafet 131, Vila Olímpia (3841 9680).

How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

A pioneer in 24-hour service, Estadão, as it’s best known, is a boho hangout from the old school. Its name is a reference to the Estado de S. Paulo newspaper, which was next door in the 1970s. With a simple, egalitarian atmosphere, the place hosts a crowd that includes artists, taxi drivers, policemen, executives and motoboys – bike couriers. The magnificent pernil (pork) sandwich is the signature dish. Viaduto Nove de Julho 193 (3257 7121/estadaolanches.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 24 hours daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.50; sandwiches R$4-$22. 24 HR

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

A delightful hangout for little ones, and a breather for battle-worn parents, the playspace-cum-café Mamusca, is a brand new sociable venture, fusing retro-hipster aesthetics with angular São Paulo concrete. The long, thin space hosts a suite of rooms for kids to play in, with magical wendy houses, fancy dress boxes, sandpits and even an atelier at the back for cookery and art classes. At the front, a funky café serves baby food made in-house and kid-sized snacks alongside grown-up fare. Rua Joaquim Antunes 778, Pinheiros (2362 9303/mamusca.com.br). Prices cafezinho R$3.80; sandwiches R$12-$18; play groups R$58-$75.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini ICE CREAM Mil Frutas This icecream parlour has delicious gelati made with tropical fruit and exotic ingredients from all over the world, but with certain exceptions: they use no preservatives or hydrogenated fat. The ice-cream isn’t cheap, but if you take up the offer to taste a flavour or two before you buy, you can move one step closer to maximum pleasure. 1st floor, Shopping Cidade Jardim, Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (3552 5900/milfrutas.com.br). Open 10am-10.15pm Mon-Sat; 1-9pm Sun. Prices ice-cream R$9.

Santo Amaro & Campo Belo Jardins BAKERY Dengosa This ever-popular

spot in Jardins has been baking bread for over 30 years, and maintains some of its retro charm. There are no stools, so patrons stand at the stainless steel counter and sip on Dengosa’ s coffee of choice: the média (R$4.20), a frothy white coffee. Eye up one of the delicious sandwich combinations on the menu. Rua Doutor Melo Alves 281, Jardim Paulista (3061 2919). Open 6am10pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.70; sandwiches R$6.30-$18.80.

CAFÉ Suplicy Café At this small,

high-end local coffee chain, the baristas are friendly and the brewers take their coffee seriously – in the Jardins branch, you can watch the beans being roasted in a huge contraption that looks like it might have come straight out of Willy Wonka’s Factory. Alameda Lorena 1430, Jardim Paulista (3061 0195/suplicycafes.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7.30am-10pm MonThu; 8.30am-11pm Fri, Sat; 8.30am10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$5; sandwiches R$11.90-$18.90. Other locations Citywide.

café Il Barista This café was one of the city’s gourmet café pioneers when it opened in 2003. It has since spawned a further three locations, all of which serve the in-house line of coffee blends. Their full-bodied espresso competes with other drinks such as the freddo limone (R$13), an iced cappuccino with lime-flavoured ice-cream. Rua Verbo Divino 1385, Santo Amaro (5181 1671/ilbarista.com. br). Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$4; sandwiches R$8.80-$14. Other locations Alameda Lorena 1731, Jardim Paulista; Rua Mário Ferraz 414, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Morumbi.

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Shopping & Style

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Markets and malls

Offline browsing A real-live showroom for the online retailer Oppa

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Shopping & Style Going analogue Taking the online offline, Anna Fitzpatrick hunts down the e-commerce brands opening up stores and showrooms across São Paulo

Augusta in May 2011, with plans underway to upscale to a bigger location (Rua Aspicuelta 300, Vila Madalena) in early July. For Renato Guidolin, the business brain behind the homegrown label, the motive for setting up a store was to have a more reliable source of income: ‘Visitor numbers to the site go up and down, whereas sales from the store are steadier,’ he explains. Storve tees can be also be bought in the trendy multi-purpose gallerycum-shop-cum-salon Cartel 011 (Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Jardim Paulista, 3081 4171, cartel011. com.br), in the streetwear shop Guadalupe Store (Rua Três Rios 126, Bom Retiro, 3229 0020,

facebook.com/Guadalupestoresp) and alongside spray paint and other urban art accessories at King Cap (Rua Fidalga 23, Vila Madalena, 3569 7940, facebook.com: King Cap Sp). Prices start at R$59 for a T-shirt and R$99 for a cap, so if you spot something you like, snap it up quick – they only produce 100 examples of each design. Just like Storvo, Leite-com (Avenida Pedroso de Morais 785, Pinheiros, 3459 2781, leite-com. com.br) also started out as a blog, in 2011. The blogger, Juliana Rosa, had moved into a white-walled apartment (hence the name ‘milkcom’) – the blank canvas that inspired her to create, along with her business partner Wil Júnior, a

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The era of the sofa-based shopping spree is putting down ever firmer roots in Brazil, with e-commerce sites popping up all over the internet, cutting out expensive rents and overheads for enterprising brands and budding designers, and giving shopaholics the chance for a quick retail fix before they’ve even got dressed. Dafiti. com.br for fast fashion, netshoes.

com.br for sneakers and sports accessories, and livo.com.br for designer eyewear are just a few of the big online hits to launch over the last few years. A handful of enterprising brands, however, are beating a less-trodden path, making the transition from online to offline as their e-commerce sites spawn tangible spaces, from showrooms to shops. One such site is Storvo, which started life online as a blog, run by a group of friends, designing, printing and selling indie streetwear T-shirts to friends, and friends of friends. That was seven years ago, and what began as just a bit of fun has gained traction, pushing Storvo to open its own store on Rua

City in print São Paulo’s favourite neighbourhoods adorn cushions, prints and bags in Leite-com’s first collection, now on sale in its Pinheiros store

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line of colourful, affordable home accessories designed to liven up the apartments of her fellow big city dwellers. The first collection was created with the help of the site’s followers, who were invited to vote for which São Paulo neighbourhoods they wanted to see depicted on everything from cushion covers (from R$89) to mugs (R$34) and reusable shopping bags (R$69). ‘We wanted products that reminded us that we love and are proud of living in this crazy and fascinating metropolis,’ says Rosa. The result includes a series of prints depicting Centro in an Art Deco-style (from R$89, unframed) and a quaint storybookstyle illustration of Pinheiros that adorns posters, mugs and bags. Expanding their horizons, and creating a showcase for their work,

Rosa and Júnior opened a charming, well-stocked boutique on the fringes of Vila Madalena in December last year, where Leite-com fans can now try before they buy, so to speak, mixing and matching bold sofa throws with printed cushions and curtains from the first collection along with pieces from the new collection, which is still under wraps, and due to launch in June. ‘Lots of people don’t know about our store yet’ says Andre Filippe, the marketing manager, ‘but this area is perfect for designled brands, and having a showcase of our work is really going to help.’ Another Vila Madalena newcomer is the somewhat unimaginatively named Beer4u (Rua Cristovão de Burgos 74, 3031

Statement garment The Storvo crew create their own T-shirt designs, with print runs of just 100.

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catherine balston

E-commerce bubbles Buy beers online, and now in store, at Beer4u

6599, beer4u.com.br), a functional space selling artisanal beers from Brazil and abroad. Opening a store wasn’t part of the original business plan, explains the owner Ériton Soares: ‘I launched the site in August last year, selling a selection of beers, but figured that since we were paying to store our stock anyhow, we might as well use the space to sell to customers.’ Conviently located just one block from Vila Madalena metrô, the store, which opened in April this year, has two long shelves stocked with local suds such as Colorado, Amazon Beer and Paulistânia, alongside imported beers by the likes of craft brewers Rogue, Brew Dog and the Dutch De Molen – the most expensive beer in the store, priced at R$135.90 for the Lief & Leed sour ale (750ml). A fridge, table

Shopping

Oh sit down Give Oppa furniture a test run before you buy, at the recently opened showroom in Vila Madalena

and chairs, set up in one corner of the store, invite customers to sample the beers first, though note that you pay for what you consume. An enterprise on an altogether different scale, Oppa (oppa.com. br) is the brainchild of German entrepreneur Max Reichel, who spotted an opportunity to sell Brazilian-designed and -made contemporary furniture and décor online without the extortionate prices that seem to be standard practice among some local retailers. Reichel reportedly raised US$13million worth of investment for his start-up, which launched in March 2011, and while the business is still 100 per cent e-commerce, you can now sit on, lie on, push, pull or prod the products before you buy, in Espaço Oppa – the showroom which opened in Vila Madalena at the beginning of the year (Rua Aspicuelta 153, Vila Madalena, 2738 0555). On our visit one Saturday afternoon, the light, spacious showroom was packed out with young couples and families looking to kit out their apartments with statement, primary-coloured pieces. Looking and touching is as far as it goes, however. If you want to know prices or buy anything, grab one of the iPads and check it out online. Sofas come in at under R$3000, and home accessories start at around R$59.90 for, say, a bicycle-print cushion. Sales assistants are also on hand to help you finalise your order over a Nespresso. Like the coffee cup? Hell, why not add a set to your basket (online, naturally) while you’re at it?

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Shopping malls Cidade Jardim The lavishly swish mall, with its picturesque roof terrace, features Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Montblanc and Brazilian designer Carlos Miele. Don’t miss Chocolat du Jour, possibly the best chocolate store in town. Taxi, private car or helicopter are the only means of arrival allowed. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (3552 1000/ shoppingcidadejardimjhsf.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun, holidays. Hours at food kiosks and restaurants vary. Eldorado This mall’s previous incarnation was as a branch of a 1980s department store, and those powershoulder-pad days still haunt the place, at least in terms of the interior design. Eldorado’s two basement levels cater to every need, from dog grooming to cellphone repairs. Avenida Rebouças 3970, Jardim Paulistano (2197 7800/ shoppingeldorado.com.br). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary. Galeria Ouro Fino São Paulo’s wealthier alternative crowd heads to this gallery. There are tattoo studios, lingerie shops and hairdressers; and above all, there are small-scale designer shops selling creative or unusual outfits like US Army-inspired fatigues at the appropriately named US Army. Rua Augusta 2690, Jardim Paulista (3082 7860/galeriaourofino.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat. Ibirapuera One of the biggest shopping centres in town, Ibirapuera has more than 400 stores plus a gourmet food area. Charming small shops can also be found outside the mall, on avenidas Bem-Te-Vi and Gaivota, and ruas Pavão and Normandia. Avenida Ibirapuera 3103, Moema (5095 2300/ibirapuera.com.br). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. JK Iguatemi With its slick, high-shine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri) and predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop and its brother brand, Topman. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 10am11pm Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary. Market Place This is a small, bijou mall that goes for quality, not quantity of stores. A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, it also has an excellent food court

Mobile accessories Olook

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Shopping

Malls & markets

We’re all about old-school analogue this month, hunting down the online brands that have set up spaces offline, too (see previous page). One that’s harder to keep track of is Olookmóvel – the refitted 1968 VW Kombi and mobile showroom for fast fashion e-commerce site olook.com. Inside the Kombi you can rummage through shoes, bags and jewellery from big-name São Paulo designers such as Juliana Jabour and Iódice, as well as Olook’s own designs, though you’ll need to go online to buy. This month, they’re going big on blackand-gold-studded ankle boots, lace-up Oxfords and maxi-necklaces. To see if they’re parking up on a street near you, go to olook.com.br/olookmovel, or follow their progress on Instagram (@olook) and Twitter (@olook). 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sat. with a huge variety of options. Go for 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm Monbaby back ribs at Outback, check out Sat, 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at Mango’s Smoothies and Brigaderia, and stores, bars and restaurants vary. don’t miss the shops Doc Dog and Calvin Villa-Lobos Close to Parque Villa-Lobos, Klein. Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan this mall has a good selection of quality 902, Brooklin (3048 700/marketplace. shops and restaurants. Check out Arezzo, com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; arguably Brazil’s best chain store for 11am-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars gorgeous leather bags and shoes and restaurants vary. (prices rarely dip below R$100 Pátio Paulista The largest for shoes and R$250 for bags); mall on Avenida Paulista and Folic, another Brazilian is home to chains like chain with beautifully Zara, Luigi Bertolli and designed clothing and i h s u -Z Hering. The sleek interior great bags. The Livraria Shin ting a E appeals to Avenida Paulista Cultura on the top floor has See t u O businessmen, primarily for a small auditorium. Avenida midday trips to the food Das Nações Unidas 4777, court, while kids flock to its Alto de Pinheiros (3024 4200/ small three-screen movie theatre. Rua shoppingvillalobos. com.br). Open 10amTreze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 10pm Mon-Sat; 12-9pm Sun. Hours at 1100/shoppingpaulista.com.br). Metrô stores, bars and restaurants vary.

IN THE AREA

Markets Feira da Água Branca Enough of agro-toxic and transgenic products: this market is pro-nature and pro things as they should be found in nature. All the produce here is certified by the Brazilian Organic Agriculture Association. Parque da Água Branca, Água Branca (3875 2625). Open 7am-12pm Tue, Sat & Sun. Feira de Antiguidades e Arte do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast everything from antique clocks and furniture, clothes and records to vintage watches, brooches and sunglasses. There’s also a number of excellent food stalls, selling a plethora of delicacies, including homemade Italian cuisine inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s nearby version of Little Italy. Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the many things to be found at this beautiful market underneath the hulking body of the MASP. Although the prices can be quite hefty, only one-of-akind articles are purveyed here. Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da Liberdade) This weekly fair has been going since 1975, and remains one of São Paulo’s best loved Sunday passeios. Its 240 stalls mostly compete for your stomach, with a vast range of Japanese and Chinese fast-food treats on offer at a reasonable price. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun. Feira de Artes, Cultura e Lazer da Praça Benedito Calixto Surrounded by gift and furniture shops, this Saturday market sells bric-à-brac as well as antique furniture – do stay on your guard, as many goods are copies. It’s busiest in the afternoons, when live music, chorinho, kicks in from 2.30 to 6.30pm, and a buzzing gay scene spills onto the pavements outside some of the square’s bars. Vendors’ stalls stand well into the afternoon, but try to get there before 4pm. Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto. com.br). Open 8am-7pm Sat. Mercado Municipal The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying an incredibly colourful array of fruit and vegetables. There’s an abundance of native fruits, as well as exotic offerings from Asia. Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/mercadomunicipal. com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

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Out & About This month in S達o Paulo

HANS SILVESTER/PRESS IMAGE

Around Town Art Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Football & World Cup 2014

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Body art Unique, compelling West African portraits at the Museu Afro Brasil

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Around Town

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Body of art

An unmissable photo exhibition reveals the ancestral body art of West African tribes. Márcio Cruz reports From the muddy banks of the Omo River on Ethiopia’s border with Kenya, and what is today South Sudan, dark and slender figures bedecked in accessories and covered in impressive body paint can be seen in plain sight. Wrapped in pieces of branches, ripe fruits and fresh or dried bean pods, their bodies are virtually camouflaged in the surrounding scrub in a striking act of mimicry. Those who visit the astonishing

exhibition, ‘As Fotografias do Vale do Rio Omo’, on display until 25 August at Parque do Ibirapuera’s Museu Afro Brasil, will feel as if they’ve been whisked off to virgin lands inhabited by beings every bit as enchanting as those created by director James Cameron for the fantasy epic, Avatar (2009). The exhibition consists of 63 large images of natives from the Surma and Mursi groups engaged in ancestral rites that date back many millennia, though they probably don’t go back quite as far as man’s presence in the region, where remains have been found of humans who lived there as long as 250,000 years ago. In order to bring their allnatural ensembles together,

Hans Silvester/press image

Embodied art Without having ever seen themselves in a mirror, the Surma and Mursi tribes are acclaimed for their elaborate adornments

Arts & crafts Tribal children are involved in the art from the outset

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inspiration,’ he points out. ‘They’ve never made the same decoration twice – there is no repetition.’ Very few of the tribes have access to mirrors, and so the paintings only take on meaning in the eyes of their beholders. ‘When I take these pictures, I never show them the photographs, because if they were to see these pictures, they would change the way they make the decorations’, Silvester writes. ‘A

works in the museum’s collection – in particular the Work and Slavery section, which includes illustrations by German painter Johann Moritz Rugendas. The late artist was a master at depicting human diversity, and his portrayal of the many African ethnicities brought to Brazil in the 19th century include the Cabinda and Mina peoples of Angola, who also practiced body painting.

‘I never show them the photos. If they were to see these pictures, it would have the same effect as a mirror, so the decorations wouldn’t be as good’

As Fotografias do Vale do Rio Omo is at the Museu Afro Brasil, Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, no number, Portão 10, Parque do Ibirapuera (3320 8900/ museuafrobrasil.org.br). 10am-5pm Tue-Sun. Until 25 August. FREE

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Sadly, the vivacity in the Omo Valley peoples’ work brings on an inevitable sense of melancholy in those who are aware of the region’s problems – many tribes go to war because of disputes over grazing lands for their herds of goat. A further, arguably inevitable issue is the population’s increasing proximity to large cities and outside

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photo would have the same effect as a mirror, so the decorations wouldn’t be as good.’ When seen in the context of a conventional gallery, Silvester’s photographs immediately cast light on the contradictions between ethnological documentation and art. This issue is further intensified by the imposing presence of other

visitors, which may in part be due to the quantity of Silvester’s portraits online. Acclaimed for their talents, some tribes have already been coopted by the tourism industry, their work sought out by avid amateur photographers keen to snap up souvenir shots to post on their Flickr and Instagram pages. ‘And so they pull up in their 4x4s, around 10am, and locals are ready to greet them, showing off their accessories and painted bodies for the occasion. This somewhat surreal show goes on until midday when the tourists head off and the “performers” are paid in local money… Money which immediately gets spent on alcohol or arms – two highlyprized commodities’, writes Silvester, adding depressingly but perhaps presciently, ‘It all seems destined for tragedy.’

Around Town

the resourceful locals gather a hodgepodge of branches, fruits, bean pods and bird feathers to adorn their inimitable costumes, the creativity of which may well have caused a frisson of envy among designers from Milan and New York when the photographs first appeared in the book Ethiopia: Peoples of the Omo Valley, produced by the British publisher Harry N. Abrams, in 2007. ‘These body paintings are completely freeform and as such they are never repeated’, explains the German photographer Hans Silvester, 74, in the introductory text to the exhibition. ‘It’s not a figurative system. Each one is extraordinarily new. The techniques and skills involved in the decoration, in the infinite variations, are learned when they are still very young, when mothers paint their babies.’ Nevertheless, Silvester – who has amassed a photographic archive of people in other remote landscapes including Peru, India and Greece – thinks the young people are the most enthusiastic. ‘They have so much imagination, they don’t need outside

Blending in Using everything from tree branches and bird feathers to ripe fruits and bean pods, the Omo River people are one with their environment

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Walk the line in sp

Ocupação Mário de Andrade

From literature to history and architecture, there’s a sightseeing walking tour to sate your touristic hunger

Super Mário A curator of culture

Discover the Brazilian Modernist author’s lesser-known side, says Marina Monzillo In 1935, São Paulo was a city of a million inhabitants. With a diverse, emerging immigrant population, it was known as the Chicago of South America, a city in the midst of industrialisation and urbanisation dealing with housing and educational growing pains. It was in this context that writer Mário de Andrade ran the Municipal Department of Culture of São Paulo (DC) – the equivalent of today’s Municipal Secretary of Culture.

The exhibition ‘Ocupação Mário de Andrade’ focuses on work by the writer – best known as one of the founders of Brazilian Modernism, a key player in the 1922 Week of Modern Art, and author of avant-garde books such as Pauliceia Desvairada and Macunaíma. Curator Silvana Rubino and her staff present 400 items, including letters, films, photographs and objects at the exhibition, which is the 14th event in the Série Ocupação (Occupation Series), held at Itaú Cultural since 2009. ‘Mário invented a cultural policy. Some of his ideas are still impressive and current; this is a journey that deserves to be revisited,’ says Rubino. During his administration, de Andrade proposed innovative activities including a public music library (note that in 1935, people had little access to records), a travelling library, and ethnographic research groups, among other initiatives. He also developed projects for schools while at the DC, for students to participate in activities including sports and art. ‘It’s very similar to the current CEUs (community education centres),’ Rubino says. There could hardly be a more apt name for SP’s municipal library than the one it proudly carries – ‘Mário de Andrade’. Ocupação Mário de Andrade, Itaú Cultural. Avenida Paulista 149, Bela Vista (2168 1776/itaucultural. org.br). Open 9am-8pm Tue to Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. From 28 June to 28 July. For all ages. FREE

City CentrE Night Walk Two hours long, the Caminhada Noturna tour may change its route depending on what participants are most interested in, but usually includes the most important sites of the city. Starts at Theatro Municipal, Praça Ramos de Azevedo (no number), República (3256 7909/caminhadanoturna.com. br). 8pm Thu. FREE Literary Walk Visitors with good Portuguese will enjoy the Caminhada Literária (‘literary walk’), learning about the lives of Brazilian authors and hearing snippets of their works while visiting the places where they lived. Starts at Pátio do Colégio, Sé (3042 4513/institutomobilidadeverde. wordpress.com). 9am, last Friday of the month. FREE

SAMPAPÉ Sampapé uses crowdsourcing to pick which neighborhoods to explore, so you’ll have to check their site for each month’s location, meeting point, date, time and e-mail address to book (sampape. com.br). June’s tour will be in Vila Madalena, 3pm Sat, 22 June. Prices R$15. SP Walking Tours These extensive tours – Centro and Avenida Paulista – last about four hours, so bring your walking shoes. The Centro tour starts at Praça da República, next to the tourist information centre. 11.30am Wed, Sat. The Avenida Paulista tour starts on the corner of Rua Augusta and Avenida Paulista, in front of the Banco do Brasil 3.30pm Thu, Sun. (spfreewalkingtour.com). FREE

jose cordeiro/spturis

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Around Town

Previews

Centro stroll Get an up-close look at downtown’s Theatro Municipal

youPIX

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Worlds collide and smart phones are set aside for this web culture gathering

Offline chat Rest your thumbs and join the conversation live at Você no Palco

Bringing the online world together offline has been trendy as of late – think tweet-ups and social network socials – but the youPIX festival has been fostering the in-person celebration of internet culture for aeons in tech time with 13 editions under its belt. After turns in Rio and Porto Alegre, the 14th edition of the now-itinerant fest comes to SP, with the same offline focus: events take place in real time, in a real place and with real people. Discussing the influence of web

technology in an array of fields, the ‘people and pixels’ event gathers professors, professionals and ordinary internet users for more than 170 hours and 300 lectures and events at six different stages. This year’s SP event features Tobias Andersson, a spokesperson for the polarising filesharing giant, The Pirate Bay, and the festival’s popular crowdsourced roundtable discussions, Você no Palco. Juan Cifrian youPIX Festival takes place at the Bienal building at Parque do Ibirapuera. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral. 5-6 July. Registration and full programme at youpix.com.br. FREE

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Museums & cultural centres Catavento Cultural Located in

An eclectic, personal mix of exhibits reflects collector Ema Klabin’s interests over four decades. Pre-Columbian, European, Asian and African art, decorative arts, and silverware adorn this beautiful house, itself a work of art. Guided tours take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm, and on Saturdays at 10am, 11.30am and 2pm, and they can be booked by phone or by completing a form on the museum’s website. The museum also stages regular musical events. Rua Portugal 43, Jardim Europa (3062 5245/ emaklabin.org.br). Open 2-4pm Tue, Thur-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat, public holidays. Admission R$10; R$5 reductions. Itaú Cultural Lodged in a typical Avenida Paulista glass building and run by one of the country’s largest banks, Banco Itaú, this institute holds temporary, contemporary art exhibitions. The initial goal of the centre was to set up a computer database on which it could store information on Brazilian arts and culture, and in 2000 a large collection of online works was made available to the public through the Enciclopédia Itaú Cultural. In 2002, the institute moved into its current building, from which it supports and stimulates the development of digital media art and interdisciplinary productions. Avenida Paulista 149, Paraíso (2168 1700/itaucultural.org.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 9am-8pm Wed-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. FREE

Graphic The Design Bienal

Museu Histórico da Imigração Japonesa no Brasil This

museum houses photos, documents and archives that span the 100-year history of Japanese immigration to Brazil. Rua São Joaquim 381, Liberdade (3208 1755/bunkyo.org.br). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 1.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5; reductions free-$2.50.

Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) A major makeover in 2008

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Fundação Ema Gordon Klabin

to the 21st centuries, but the museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. There’s a great restaurant here too – Quinta do Museu – and, on Sunday mornings, the terrace and garden are the site of free music performances. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2705, Jardim Paulistano (3032 3727/mcb.sp.gov.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; free Sun. Museu do Futebol The fascinating Museu do Futebol uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football. A large collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events to stimulate young supporters into learning the facts behind their favourite sport. Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu.

Around Town

the beautiful Palácio das Industrias, Catavento is a participative cultural and educational museum. Well laid out, its mission is to provide children (and adults) with fun and interactive ways to learn, and it covers topics including space, the human body and Brazilian geography and wildlife. No tickets sold after 4pm. Palácio das Indústrias, Praça Cívica Ulisses Guimarães, Parque Dom Pedro II, Centro (cataventocultural. org.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; free-R$3 reductions. Centro Cultural São Paulo São Paulo’s aerodynamic-looking Cultural Centre, perched atop a steep hill beside the Avenida 23 de Maio thoroughfare, is quite an impressive and clever architectural feat. Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the vast, multi-level space. A spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden where you can sit and enjoy views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural. sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE Centro da Cultura Judaica This Torah-shaped building was designed by well-known architect Roberto Loeb and is set behind high gates. The impressive edifice has a bookstore and puts on film festivals and plays. Rua Oscar Freire 2500, Sumaré (3065 4333/ culturajudaica.org.br). Metrô 2, Sumaré. Open noon-9pm Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun, public holidays. FREE

Much to the chagrin of bookworms, books are undoubtedly going to be judged by their covers at the Bienal Brasileira de Design Gráfico, the Brazilian Graphic Design Bienal, which celebrates its tenth edition this month. More than 400 design projects produced in Brazil or by Brazilian designers are divided into the categories of Identity and Branding, Printed Editorials, Printed Promotional, Digital, Spatial, Typography and Frontiers. At the opening ceremony, the public will view about 70 works selected and commented

Matilha Cultural A socially-

minded cultural space in Centro, Matilha Cultural organises events, courses, film screenings and art exhibitions, which are generally free. With the environment in mind, Matilha was built using certified and reclaimed wood and serves vegetarian food in its café. Rua Rego Freitas 542, (3256 2636/matilhacultural. com.br). Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; noon10pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Museu Afro Brasil The AfroBrazil museum is, quite simply, one of the jewels in the crown of Parque do Ibirapuera. Due to its late abolition,

on by judges from 14 countries. The programme, organised by the Association of Graphic Designers (ADG), includes exhibitions, workshops and lectures by South American artists. A parallel conference brings together local and foreign professionals during the first weekend of the show. The Bienal Brasileira de Design Gráfico will be held at the Memorial da América Latina, Avenida Auro Soares de Moura Andrade 664, Barra Funda (3823 4600/bienaladg.org.br) from 9am6pm Tue-Sun, 14 June-30 June. FREE

slavery is still an open wound in Brazil’s history; and a closer look at the impressive collection of paintings, photographs and clothing in this museum emphasises the impact African culture has had on modern Brazil. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Parque do Ibirapuera (4004 5006/museuafrobrasil. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. FREE

Museu da Casa Brasileira

Previously owned by the Prado family, powerful local coffee barons, this beautifully preserved mansion houses a museum focused on interior design. The collection includes furniture from the 17th

revitalised this stark, concrete building, which is home to a collection of 30,000 photos, films and records. There are recorded statements by modernist artist Tarsila do Amaral and Tom Jobim (the father of bossa nova). It also stages frequent, innovative temporary exhibitions. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br). Open noon-10pm Tue-Sat; 11am-9pm Sun, public holidays. Admission R$4; free-R$2 reductions; free Sun.

Museu da Língua Portuguesa

The Portuguese language is a meeting point for distant countries and diverse cultures, and the imposing totems on this museum’s first floor make for a brilliant visual introduction to the encounter that gave birth to Brazil’s language. The exhibits are visually striking, though note that there are no signs in English. Praça da Luz, Centro (3326 0775/ museudalinguaportuguesa.org.br). Metrô 1, Luz. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; Admission R$4; reductions free; free Sat. PORTUGUESE

Museu Paulista da USP (Museu do Ipiranga) Up on a hill

overlooking Parque da Independência, the Museu do Ipiranga is set inside a gorgeous Renaissance-style building dating from 1895. Inside, it traces the history of Brazil, from the early settlers to the 1950s. The museum and the gardens offer great views of the city, and the Parque da Independência (free entry) is a great place to kick off your shoes and lounge in the shade. Parque da Independência, Ipiranga (2065 8000/ mp.usp.br). Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$3 reductions; free under-6s, over-60s, first Sun of the month. Includes admission to the nearby (and disappointing) Museu de Zoologia.

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Art

FRES PAINTH Find o ur pic m

onth ko online ’s art exhibf this at tim itions sao-paeout.com/ ulo

Into the light

Beyond borders German artist Florian Foerster in his Berlin studio

The German artist Florian Foerster talks to Fabiana Caso about the artistic bridge he’s built between SP and Berlin An apartment studio located in Berlin’s borough of Neukölln might be the last place you’d expect to come across a cache of prints depicting São Paulo’s downtown neighbourhoods of Luz and Brás. Twenty-two of these images, made by the German artist Florian Foerster and inspired by the beautiful Jardim da Luz park, next to the Pinacoteca do Estado art museum, will be on display at the gallery Gravura Brasileira (see listings) in an exhibition entitled ‘Luz – Decay and Transformation’. The works reveal a dense and somewhat gloomy vision, with organic shapes that intertwine and confound, suggesting familiar

yet curious human and natural contours. It’s a second solo exhibition at the gallery for Foerster, and has just been announced as forming part of the official Year of Germany in Brazil. In late August, he is also slated to take part in a group exhibition at the Oficina Cultural Oswald de Andrade, alongside Brazilian artists, with dates to be confirmed. Born in the small German town of Oldenburg, Foerster studied art in Manchester, England. His interest in São Paulo emerged during a visit to the city in 1991, when he took part in a print workshop at the Museu Lasar Segall. He has since returned three times, spending four months on each visit, ‘obsessively’ drawing Brás and Centro, and creating paintings, collages and watercolours inspired by these older, and often neglected, areas. Foerster uses a single copper plate for the entire series of Jardim da Luz prints, observing

Is São Paulo the biggest inspiration in your works? I’ve felt very attracted to specific places in the cities in which I’ve lived. In Manchester, where I lived for many years, there were two locations that I drew obsessively for fifteen years. In many ways, I like the way some things seem out of step – if I were to show all my work in one exhibition, you might think they were by different painters. It’s like the poetry of Fernando Pessoa, which has different characters for different places. I like that feeling. If I’m going to draw something, I need a long time – years. The work is a mixture of memory, observation, imagination; and there are themes

that follow me, or that I’ve sought out now for many years. When I’m in São Paulo, or working on artworks themed on it, I feel a great deal of affinity – I feel at home, perhaps because it contrasts with the place where I was born, which was very quiet and provincial. Your work is a process of digestion of these places. You digest the place, the place digests you, and you react to it. Then you get older, memory changes, your experience of the place is different, or the way you respond to the experiences is. In São Paulo, the actual physical reality of the city changes. Visiting over a period of a few years, with long gaps between the visits, that process of change becomes a strong artistic stimulus. There’s an energy greater than the idea of planning it or controlling it. This city is a natural organism, as opposed to those in Europe, where things are static. Many foreigners get frustrated because São Paulo is disorganised – it’s constantly evolving, and historically its growth was never controlled. In Europe, there’s a lot more planning. In Brazil, people live in the present.

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fabiana caso

its deterioration after successive immersions in acid. ‘I thought it would last a few months, but it took two-and-a-half years to wear out.,’ he says, speaking to Time Out at his studio in Berlin, the city he moved to five years ago, and where he has held exhibitions of his São Paulo-themed works. ‘What I do is like excavation, as if I were an archaeologist of the city, of these places. I try to understand how the energy of each of them works.’

Shadows of Luz Pinacoteca’s adjacent garden inspires many engravings

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Art & Museums

Secret urban interiors A depiction of São Paulo’s Luz neighbourhood Manchester. I’ve made many, many drawings of Edifício São Vito and other deteriorating buildings that were later demolished. Can you explain the process of reusing the same copper plate? I wanted to find out how long it would last until it was actually destroyed, recording the prints at each step. As I got more involved in the process I became fascinated – I thought it would last a few months, but it took two-and-a-half years to wear out. It was like being in nature; if you look at the trees, they also disintegrate, changing with time just like we do. With art you can work in this destructive way, as in the case of the copper plate, and create something beautiful. Luz – Decay and Transformation is at Galeria Gravura Brasileira. Rua Dr. Franco da Rocha, 61, Perdizes (3624 9193/ gravurabrasileira.com). Open Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm; Saturday, 11am-1pm. 11 June-3 July. FREE

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There is a dark atmosphere in the prints; the Jardim da Luz is seen from a rather unexpected perspective. For me, the Jardim da Luz is particularly special. Because everyone seems to go there with a wish. Some older men visit it seeking out prostitutes, and before that was the norm, there was a gay scene there. But it’s very quiet and calm inside. On Sundays, musicians go there to play. It’s melancholy, but it’s beautiful. It’s a place for fun. People go there with their hopes and dreams, seeking happiness for a while. During the 1990s, when the park entrance was still on Avenida Tiradentes, everything seemed really dreamlike. It was bright, but the further you walked into it, the darker it became because of the trees, many of which they’ve since cut down while they were remodeling the Pinacoteca. I also really like the neighbourhood of Brás, with its smells and workshops. Because it was industrial, it reminded me of

Change of scenery Capturing the dynamic, industrial qualities of Brás

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Art listings Tcharafna Gui Mohallem

Art & Museums

Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check. How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

Major institutions Instituto Tomie Ohtake Housed in an imposing dark glass skyscraper, the Instituto dominates the Pinheiros skyline, and isn’t afraid to shock with challenging exhibitions. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 201, Pinheiros (2245 1900/institutotomieohtake.org.br). Open 11am-8pm Tue-Sun. Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) Founded in 1948 and based on New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), the MAM contains over 5,000 works by acclaimed Brazilian artists of the likes of Regina Silveira, Cildo Meireles and Leonilson. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5085 1300/mam. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5.50; free reductions. Free to all Sun. Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum is an imposing red concrete-and-glass box that dominates Avenida Paulista. Inside? The best collection of European and Brazilian art in South America. Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/masp.art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm Thu; 10am6pm Fri-Sun (ticket office open until half an hour before closing). Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free to all Tue. Pinacoteca do Estado São Paulo’s oldest, most traditional major institution features works by many of the most important Brazilian Modernists, Cândido Portinari, Anita Malfatti and Di Cavalcanti included. Praça da Luz, Luz (3324 1000/pinacoteca.org.br) Metrô 1, Luz. Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; students R$3. Free to all Sat. No credit cards. Pivô Inside one of SP’s most iconic buildings – the Copan – this sprawling space is run by an energetic bunch of arty types, the huge gallery kicked off with an ambitious, brilliantly realised group show that took over most of its many spaces, and has since also been a venue for performance pieces. Avenida Ipiranga 200, loja 48, Centro (3255 8703/pivo.org.br). Metrô 1, República. Open noon-6pm Tue-Sat.

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How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s major institutions (art museums and publicly and privately owned collections), then commercial galleries, the latter ordered by area. Recommended galleries are marked with a .

The result of a six-week artists’ residency in Lebanon last year, the exhibition ‘Tcharafna’, is a series of 13 works by the photographer Gui Mohallem. Named after an Arabic expression meaning ‘nice to meet you’, ’Tcharafna’ consists of photos, videos and objects that the young photographer, from Minas Gerais but of Lebanese descent, created during and after his spell in Beirut and Fakiha, the latter his family’s native town.‘Tcharafna’ runs from 7 June-18 July at Emma Thomas. See listings.

Galleries Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/ galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm MonFri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/galeriavermelho. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia.

Galeria Marília Razuk Marília Razuk has been showing artists of great stature since 1992. The roster includes the neo-concretist maestro Amilcar de Castro. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 131, Itaim Bibi (3079 0853/ galeriamariliarazuk.com.br) Open 10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat.

Pinheiros Galeria Estação Gallery director Vilma Eid’s focus is on the cream of Brazilian popular art, displaying a collection of fascinating works, including sculpture and painting by artists such as José Antônio da Silva and Nuca. Books and local crafts are also for sale. Rua Ferreira de Araújo 625, Pinheiros (3813 7253/galeriaestacao. com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Logo In a versatile white space with a basement area that means two shows can run concurrently, Galeria Logo is a favourite with the skate/ graffiti/meeja crowd, and got off to a flying start when it opened in 2011 with a series of ambitious, large-scale shows. We particularly like Walter Nomura’s complex, colourful, messy paintings and Flávio Samelo’s striking photographs. Rua Artur de Azevedo 401, Pinheiros (3062 2381/galerialogo.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat.

Santa Cecília Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. Rua Barra Funda 216, Barra Funda (3666 6489/ barogaleria.com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena Jardins Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/emmathomas.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the contemporary art circuit since the 1970s. Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/galerialuisastrina.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Nara Roesler Japanese ‘old school contemporary’ painter Tomie Ohtake, founder of the institute that bears her name (see Major institutions), is just one of the artists here, as are fashionable young painters like Rodolpho Parigi. Avenida Europa 655, Jardim Europa (3063 2344/nararoesler.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards..

Perdizes & Pompéia Gravura Brasileira Opened in 1998 by Alberto Fuks and Eduardo Besen to showcase classic and contemporary print art, Gravura Brasileira has since staged more than 100 exhibitions from its Perdizes headquarters. Rua Dr Franco da Rocha 61, Perdizes (3624 0301/ gravurabrasileira.com). Open 11am6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat.

Fortes Vilaça Even an art ignoramus will feel the quality at this gallery, one of the most established Brazilian names on the international circuit. They’ve got some big names on the roster: São Paulo graffiti stars OsGemeos, the world-renowned artist Ernesto Neto, and Beatriz Milhazes and her beautiful, colourful paintings. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena (3032 7066/fortesvilaca.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Millan The charming André Millan is a mainstay of the Brazilian contemporary art market, and represents, amongst others, the artists Tatiana Blass, Artur Barrio and Ana Maria Maiolino. Millan also shows photographers like Bob Wolfenson, and Miguel Rio Branco.. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1360, Vila Madalena (3031 6007/galeriamillan.com.br).Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Transversal A new Vila Madalena outpost for the two-year-old Barra Funda gallery, this space is double the size of the original, at 400m2. Swing by to check it out, and combine it with a trip to the nearby galleries Fortes Vilaça and Galeria Millan. The older space will only be used for occasional exhibitions and courses and also as the ‘acervo’ – the back room; so call to check before heading to Barra Funda. Rua Fidalga 545, Vila Madalena (3392 5287/ galeriatransversal.com.br). Open 11am7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-6pm Sat. Other location Rua do Bosque 206, Barra Funda (3392 5287). Open 11am-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat.

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Film

Watc ONLINh Find lo E ts inte more fi

The forgettable face of Gatsby

lm r rvie featur ws, trailerseviews, es on and timeo ut.comour site, / s a opaulo

Carey Mulligan and Baz Luhrmann had a ritual during filming of The Great Gatsby. Every morning, the director would knock at the door of his leading lady’s trailer, take her hand, walk her to the set and fix her dress. The point, says Mulligan, was ‘to make me feel like a lady’. It’s first thing on an overcast Wednesday. Over a cup of tea at Claridges, Mulligan is as collected and possessed as you’d expect, but also a bit of a giggle. I’m surprised: she always looks so fashionably poised when she stops for the snappers on the red carpet. ‘God, no!’ Mulligan looks shocked. ‘I don’t like photos. I used to be much worse on the red carpet. I’d just sort of stand there…’ She tenses her face, putting on a comedy stiff smile. ‘By the time I’d got to the end I’d be in tears. My publicist would have to clean me up, smooth me down and push me into whatever event I was going to. I’m slightly better now. But people looking at me, that freaks me out…’ Perhaps that’s why she has such a talent for disappearing into characters. She came out of nowhere with An Education as the brainy sixth-former who gets a lesson in love from a dodgy older man. Since then, no two roles have been the same: wise beyond her years in Never Let Me Go, messy and selfdestructive in Shame. ‘It helps that I’ve got a forgettable face,’ she laughs before adding seriously, ‘I like doing something dramatically different every time. I don’t want the audience to think of me as myself. Gatsby is Romeo + Juliet director Luhrmann’s mega-million-dollar glitzy adaptation of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s Roaring Twenties tale of greed, social climbers and doomed love. Leonardo DiCaprio is Jay Gatsby, the mystery man who makes and loses a fortune – for love. Mulligan plays rich, beautiful Daisy Buchanan, the woman who commands his undying devotion. It was the most sought-after Hollywood leading lady role in years,

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Carey Mulligan talks to Cath Clarke about her starring role in Baz Luhrmann’s latest epic

Green-lighted golden girl Mulligan as money-loving Daisy Buchanan in the latest version of ‘The Great Gatsby’

and Luhrmann considered every actress you could think of: Scarlett Johansson, Michelle Williams, Blake Lively, Keira Knightley and Natalie Portman. When Mulligan got the call three days before her audition she hadn’t read Gatsby. She shrugs: ‘I didn’t study it at school.’ She flew to New York for a 90-minute ‘mad circus’ casting with Luhrmann,

if she’d got the part. ‘I’d had a martini. And you know, one martini is enough for me. He came over.’ She stands up awkwardly. ‘And we chatted. And I’m thinking: Is my face red? Am I being articulate?’ Luhrmann was still working his way through the audition tapes at the time. ‘He gave me this whole speech’ – she puts on a gruff voice – ‘“Well,

‘At least I could say to myself, “Well, I did this crazy audition. I got to act with Leonardo DiCaprio for an hour-and-a-half”’ Leonardo DiCaprio and a room full of cameras. The whole thing seemed so ‘beyond the realms of possibility’ that she wasn’t even nervous: ‘But at least I could say to myself, “Well, I did this crazy audition. I got to act with Leonardo DiCaprio for an hourand-a-half.”’ She takes masochistic delight in telling me the story of how she bumped into Luhrmann at a LA restaurant a couple of weeks after her audition – still not knowing

you know, Carey, I’m a scientist…” And he’s talking in this really poetic, cryptic language. I was like, am I drunk or are you not making any sense?’ A week later, she burst into tears when he called with the words ‘Hello Daisy’. Daisy Buchanan is one of literature’s hardest-to-like heroines. Fitzgerald describes her as ‘the golden girl’, a Southern belle, who chooses money over love. ‘She’s difficult to crack because she

doesn’t really know herself,’ reckons Mulligan. ‘I always imagined her as someone who, with everything she says and does, it’s as if she’s watching a movie of her own life.’ She compares Daisy to the Kardashians: ‘She is always giving this performance and that’s all she gives. So you can’t ever really tell.’ Mulligan read everything she could about the two women who inspired Daisy: Fitzgerald’s troubled wife Zelda, and his first love Ginevra King. Beautiful and damned, Zelda and Scott were a celebrity couple before celebrity couples existed – and their marriage was as twisted as anything in his novels. Isn’t she a teensy bit freaked out at the thought of the mega-celebrity this film may bring? Mulligan’s face darkens. ‘Definitely: this is nervewracking.’ Her voice trails off. ‘I don’t really know the deal…’ She recovers, smiling too brightly, and says finally, ‘But you know, it’s funny, no one ever recognises me.’ This time next week, I wouldn’t be so sure. The Great Gatsby (O Grande Gatsby) is released on 7 June. See review, next page.

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Reviews The Great Gatsby

Film

Romeo + Juliet and Moulin Rouge! showed us that Australian director Baz Luhrmann can throw a hell of a party. Now, after the epic drabness of Australia, he pulls the stereo out of storage and does it again. The best scene in this fast and furious stab at F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 1925 state-of-thenation novel comes early, as we gatecrash a wild shindig at the Long Island home of filthy rich Jay Gatsby. Gatsby’s wide-eyed poorer neighbour Nick Carraway (Tobey Maguire) cuts through the layers of flappers and frippery and meets his elusive host (Leonardo DiCaprio, never more than an enigma; maybe rightly so) amid the throng on an elevated terrace. The scene is Luhrmann at his best: swirling cameras, mad excess, look-at-me costumes and big musical statements. In Luhrmann’s world, everything is bigger, noisier, brighter and quicker even than the far-from-humdrum universe of Fitzgerald’s story. That’s fine when the party’s raging, and the scene has some of the heart-thumping, first-meet excitement of the Claire Danes-DiCaprio fishtank moment in Romeo + Juliet. But when the music stops and the lights go up, dawn casts an unflattering glow on

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Dir. Baz Luhrmann, Australia/USA, 2013. Leonardo DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire, Carey Mulligan. 142 mins.

Love and death on Long Island Mulligan and DiCaprio in F. Scott Fitzgerald’s iconic Daisy and Gatsby roles

the bulk of the film’s quieter, more intimate moments. One of the niggling problems with Luhrmann’s film is that it never knows whether it’s about the doomed love between Gatsby and Nick’s cousin, flighty Southern belle Daisy (Carey Mulligan) who lives across the water with her brutish husband Tom (Joel Edgerton), or about the longing, questioning, horrified gaze of

Carraway. He’s an outsider in a rarefied world, comparable to Charles Ryder in Brideshead Revisited, and arguably that’s where the real emotional pull of Fitzgerald’s story lies. Yet there’s a whole swathe in which Carraway recedes from view and Luhrmann focuses on the push and pull between Daisy and Gatsby. The scenes are sluggish as romance and cold as tragedy.

What Luhrmann makes intoxicating is a sense of place – the houses, the rooms, the city, the roads – and the sense that all this is unfolding in a bubble like some mad fable. Where he falters is in persuading us that these are real, breathing folk whose experiences and destinies can actually move us. Dave Calhoun The Great Gatsby (O Grande Gatsby) is released on 7 June.

Dark Skies

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Dir. Scott Charles Stewart, USA, 2013, Keri Russell, Josh Hamilton, Dakota Goyo. 97mins.

A real mess Not much good dropping from the muck of ‘Dark Skies’

Aliens do the darnedest things! Or so this batty, Z-grade abduction shocker would have us believe. Though considering these spooky actions include bothering pigeons and sneaking into kids’ bedrooms in the middle of the night, it’s entirely possible that writer-director Scott Stewart has got extraterrestrials confused with dirty old men. Keri Russell plays Lacy, a suburban mum who begins to fear for her family after a series of unexplained events (all of them tiresomely familiar to anyone who’s seen either Signs,

Paranormal Activity, The X-Files or The Birds). Time and again, Stewart squanders the opportunity to do anything remotely interesting or worthwhile: the characters are cardboard, the visuals bland, the plot simultaneously overfamiliar and completely baffling. Worst of all, the entire film is totally humourless, making for occasional moments of unintended hilarity – the scene where a trancedout Russell smashes her face repeatedly into a plate-glass door has definite comedy value – but an overall mood of unrelenting pofaced drudgery. Tom Huddleston Dark Skies (Os Escolhidos) is released on 5 July.

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Dir. Pedro Almodóvar, Spain, 2013. Javier Cámara, Carlos Areces, Raúl Arévalo. 90 mins.

signature concerns are all aboard and ready for take-off. An opening disclaimer disavows any connection between the film and reality, but still I’m So Excited is something like a state-ofthe-nation screwball farce. Business class bubbles with a handful of high-stakes plots with oblique socio-political resonance, revolving around a celebrity diva (Cecilia Roth), a dodgy banker (José Luis Torrijo), a mysterious Mexican (José María Yazpik) and a psychic virgin (Lola Dueñas). Economy is out cold en masse. The flight is in trouble. The cabin crew (Javier Cámara, Carlos Areces, Raúl Arévalo) are dedicated to distraction, a hot mess of booze, drugs, blow-jobs and lipsyncs. There’s a dance break, a sex break, a lot of tequila. It’s crazy fun, even if it’s not always clear where it’s going. As with any Almodóvar film, connections with his earlier work abound: we might think of the gazpacho from Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown, the queasy bedside ethics of Talk to Her, the terrorist hijackers of Labyrinth of Passion. Indeed, with its sprawling satire and knockabout tone,

Surely you can’t be serious The wild crew pauses for a pensive moment

I’m So Excited is the closest Almodóvar has come in years to early romps like Labyrinth, Pepi, Luci, Bom and What Have I Done to Deserve This? The context, of course, has shifted from post-Franco liberation in Spain to post-meltdown anxiety: having endured one crash,

these characters face another. The auteur’s advice is to try honesty and get laid. Fasten your seatbelts – it’s going to be a bumpy night. Ben Walters

Film

One litmus test for auteurism could be whether a director is able to do his or her thing in a tightly confined space. Stagecoach and Lifeboat are unmistakably the work of John Ford and Alfred Hitchcock, despite being largely confined to, well, a stagecoach and a lifeboat. Some thrive on this model, others seem perversely ill-suited to it: Roman Polanski’s Repulsion is in many ways his creation story, while part of the appeal of 127 Hours was seeing how the ceaselessly kinetic Danny Boyle would tell a story about a man stuck under a massive rock. The vast majority of Pedro Almodóvar’s I’m So Excited takes place on board a passenger jet, and there’s no question of it having been made by anyone but this Spanish filmmaker. High camp and high drama, family secrets and festering lies, the uses of storytelling and abuses of the unconscious, supernatural twists and melodramatic turns, telephones and television, the power of patterns – his

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I’m So Excited

I’m So Excited (Os Amantes Passageiros) is released on 28 June.

The Oranges

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Dir. Julian Farino, USA, 2011. Hugh Laurie, Leighton Meester, Adam Brody. 90 mins.

No-win situation Try as they might, Meester and Laurie come up empty

Oh, suburbia: how we love condescending to thee. This latest spin around the manicured block takes place in the bedroom community of West Orange, New Jersey, where the Wallings and the Ostroffs have always been more like an extended family than neighbours. But their intimacy is tested when self-exiled daughter Nina Ostroff (Leighton Meester) retreats home after a bad breakup, setting her sights on père David Walling (Hugh Laurie), who, thanks to a sexless union with wife Paige (Catherine Keener), proves hot to trot. While the Ostroffs (Allison Janney and Oliver Platt) pirouette in horror, the Wallings fall apart, with David trying to normalise his May-December affair and his placid spouse attempting vehicular

homicide on Christmas Eve. Veteran TV director Julian Farino (Entourage) and screenwriters Ian Helfer and Jay Reiss are credited with this risible farce, but such a punitive pose basically writes itself: a nicely mowed lawn in the first act will be mulched by the third; courteous marriages will be proved loveless; and women over the age of 50 will be punished for their screeching, meddlesome controlfreakishness. Neither Janney nor Keener can rise above the rote hatefulness of their madwoman caricatures, whereas Laurie and Meester fare better at playing liberated dreamers who go against the dreaded grain. But shooting fish in a barrel tends to unintentionally conjure sympathy for the fish – or, in this case, for perfectly unhappy suburbanites. Eric Hynes The Oranges (A Filha do Meu Melhor Amigo) is released 14 June.

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How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues. Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

Film

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Built in 1901 and restored in 1927 as the first Banco do Brasil in São Paulo, this imposing former bank in the middle of the old city is now a cultural centre, with a café, art exhibitions, theatre and educational programmes. The CCBB cinema programme often includes engrossing retrospectives of internationally renowned directors. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/bb.com.br/cultura). Metrô 1 or 3, Sé or São Bento. 1 screen, 70 seats. Tickets R$4; R$2 reductions. Playarte Marabá Open from 1944 to 2007, this theatre reopened its doors in 2009. It was once known as the only survivor of the ‘cinelândia’ – downtown area of São Paulo that housed many theatres in the mid 20th century. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Ipiranga 757, Centro (5053 6881/playartepictures.com.br). Metrô 3, República. 5 screens, 122-430 seats. Tickets R$4.50-$19.

Consolação & Higienópolis Cinemark Pátio Higienópolis This cinema, inside the Shopping Pátio Higienópolis mall, has a good projection system with seats at a steep enough gradient that you’ll always get a good view, even when the cinema is packed. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Higienópolis 646, Higienópolis (3823 2875/cinemark.com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. 6 screens, 98-264 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; R$8-$11 reductions. 3D film tickets R$26-$28; R$3-$4 reductions. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Augusta This cinema, which until recently was known as Espaço Unibanco, is divided into two spaces on either side of Rua Augusta. If you arrive before the movie showtime, feel free to visit the small bookstore. Rua Augusta 1470 and 1475, Consolação (3288 6780/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 5 screens, 51-263 seats. Tickets R$14-$22; R$7-$11 reductions; R$10-$20. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca Despite being located in a shopping centre, this cinema has a welcoming ambience. Mainstream movies and arthouse titles screen daily. Rua Frei Caneca 569, 3rd floor, Frei

Caneca Shopping, Consolação (3472 2365/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 9 screens, 103-268 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; 3D film tickets R$26-$28.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations, with some screens available for 3D films. Priority is given to blockbusters though cult films are sometimes shown on the smaller screens. Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa (3024 3851/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18$24; R$9-$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37; R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros CINUSP Paulo Emílio A small cinema at the heart of the enormous University of São Paulo campus, CINUSP shows free films to an audience

of movie buffs. Rua do Anfiteatro 181, Colméia Favo 4, Cidade Universitária, Butantã (3091 3540/usp.br/cinusp). 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

Jardins Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. It also also has the advantage of location – next door to the excellent bookshop Livraria Cultura, on the ground floor of the Conjunto Nacional building, on the bustling corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats. Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions. CineSESC This charming cinema on Rua Augusta has a bar at the back, separated by a glass screen, where you can enjoy a drink as you watch a film. One of the most popular cinemas for film buffs, it screens art-house movies and hosts a number of annual film festivals. Rua Augusta 2075, Consolação (3087 0500/sescsp.org.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Tickets R$8-$12. Reserva Cultural This pleasant spot has a small café and a restaurant-bar with large windows through which you can watch the comings and goings along the city’s main avenue. Avenida Paulista 900, Bela Vista (3287 3529/ reservacultural.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro or Trianon-Masp. 4 screens, 110-190 seats. Tickets R$17-$24; R$8.50-$12 reductions.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Cinépolis JK Opened in 2012 in the swish JK Iguatemi shopping mall, this cinema is all about luxury – of its eight screening rooms, one uses Imax technology and the other, with 4D capacity, can use up to 20 special effects to enhance the viewing experience. It doesn’t come cheap though – tickets are are much as R$68. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, 4th floor, Vila Olímpia (3152 6605/jk.cinepolis.com.br). 8 screens, 67-382 seats. Tickets R$34-$68; R$17$34 reductions. Kinoplex Itaim Housed in the Brascan complex, this cinema is located near a food court with a great variety of restaurants as well as a number of bars for longer nights out. Screens have comfortable armchairs with adjustable head and armrests. Screens mainstream films. Rua Joaquim Floriano 466, Itaim Bibi (3131 2004/kinoplex.com.br). 6 screens, 155-312 seats. Tickets R$10$26; R$5-$13 reductions; 3D films R$28$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Sala Cinemateca This former municipal slaughterhouse, a beautiful brick building with a garden in its interior patio, houses an important Brazilian film archive and an arthouse cinema that hosts events from the city’s international film festival. Largo Senador Raul Cardoso 207, Vila Mariana (3512 6111/ cinemateca.gov.br). 2 screens, 108-210 seats. Tickets R$8; R$4 reductions.

Film festival Latin American cinema A festival spotlights Latin America movie greats, says Cecília Gianesi There’s no disputing Latin America’s track record in producing great movies, with quality, not quantity, the watchword. The list includes titles like Argentina’s The Official Story, Central do Brasil and No from Chile – all three of which have been nominated for the Best Foreign Film at the Oscars. The 8th edition of the Festival de Cinema Latino Americano de São Paulo (São Paulo’s Latin American Film Festival) takes place at CineSESC, Cinemateca Brasileira, CINUSP Paulo Emílio, CINUSP Maria Antônia (see listings) and Memorial da América Latina (Avenida Auro Soares de Moura Andrade 664, Barra Funda, 3823 4600/memorial.org.br). Festival highlights include the Cuban director Jorge Perugorría’s Amor Crônico, which follows the New York-based Cuban singer

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Main cinemas

Heavy stuff Toiling Brazilian miners from ‘Cobrador, In God We Trust’ Cucu Diamantes on a tour of her homeland, intertwining performances with a narrative driven by a fictional love story. For a pan-Latin American (and European) production, catch Mexican film-maker Paul Leduc’s Cobrador, In God We Trust (2006), which tells the story of a mugger

who breaks into a New Year’s Eve party, only to face profound questions about human values and the globalisation of violence. The 8th Festival Latino Americano de São Paulo is from 11-18 July. See full programme at memorial.org.br. FREE

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11/06/13 12:49

Gay & Lesbian Listings

Transformational Crisálidas

How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

Clubs Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings. The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35. Danger Head downtown and prepare yourself for a hardcore experience. There’s a live, 20-minute sex show at 2am in which three couples of varying sexuality do the do. They switch places on stage, giving everyone an excellent view. The crowd is a tad rough’n’tumble, but if you go to the dark room or have a couple of extra sips, you may not even notice. Rua Rego Freitas 470, Centro (3211 0371/dangerdanceclub. blogspot.com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-6am. Admission R$18. Glória This club used to be a church, but on Fridays it’s fashionista Sin City. It attracts classy crowds thanks to its opulent decor, with beds, mirrors and champagne bars. Expect a flamboyant crowd. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/ clubegloria.com.br). Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Admission R$10-$50. The L Club In this girls’ club, you get all sorts: from Ellen DeGeneres and Portia de Rossi types to everything in between. On Friday’s, there’s live MPB in the outside lounge area, but the main dance floor rocks with tribal house. Rua Luís Murat 370, Vila Madalena (2604 3393/thelclub. com.br). Open 11pm-6am Fridays only. Admission R$15-$20. The Society The owner of The Week recently opened this plush, clubhousestyle nightspot, and it doesn’t disappoint,

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Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Marking the one-year anniversary of the Museu da Diversidade – which is less museum and more barebones temporary exhibition space, inside República Metrô station – the photo exhibition Crisálidas (‘pupae’) comprises a series of portraits of transgender people, shot by Madalena Schwartz (1921-1993). She was a Hungarian immigrant to São Paulo who became fascinated by the eccentricity of her subjects during the city’s edgy 1970s. Schwartz took many of the photos in her own apartment in the iconic Copan building, lending a certain intimacy to the images. The Museu da Diversidade (museudadiversidade.com.br) is inside Metrô Republica station, and opens from 10am-8pm, Tue-Sun, Until 30 September. FREE with a cosy dancefloor downstairs and a gauzy, carpeted lounge area upstairs. Here, shirts stay on, with DJ Paulo Pacheco spinning pop faves. Rua Marquês de Paranaguá 329, Consolação (3154 1669/thesociety.com.br). Open midnightlate Fri; 9pm-late Sun. Admission R$60-$80. The Week This party is what every other club (gay or straight) is trying to copy. It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with summerseason clones in Rio and Florianópolis, and an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. It’s already gone international, with parties popping up in Barcelona, London and Mexico

City. While the club often hosts other parties during the week, Babylon on Saturdays is the official club party, and the night to go. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/theweek.com.br). Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$60-$80. Tunnel With exuberant music in the main room and vintage pop on the lower level, this party is full of young boys new to the gay scene. It gets a bit crowded, but there’s always the restaurant upstairs for a break and a snack. Don’t get too drunk, though: the place is full of stairs. Rua dos Ingleses 355, Bela Vista (3285 0246/tunnel.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$20.

Bars ‘Bar da Lôca’ The always-crowded ‘bar on the corner’ is actually the neighbourhood bakery-cum-watering hole officially named Bar Tom Zé. Its proximity to nearby club A Lôca turned it into the club’s unofficial waiting room. The crowd is mixed, sheltering twinks, bears and closet cases. It’s often standing-room only. Rua Frei Caneca 106, Consolação (3256 1946). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8. Farol Madalena This venue is a triple threat: bar, restaurant and concert hall. It serves a full menu of traditional petiscos (appetisers) and dishes named after Brazilian beaches, while offering a change of pace from the typical club with live, contemporary Brazilian music. It’s a particularly popular destination with the ladies. Rua Jericó 179, Vila Madalena (3032 6470/farolmadalena. com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 7pm-1am Wed, Thu; 7pm-2am Fri, Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$12; cover R$10-$15;

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This

lively café-cum-bar, recently relocated to a larger space with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. The tasty mojito is a good way to get in the mood. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/ freycafe.com.br). Open 4pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15. SAUNA Splash 720 Inaugurated in December 2011, Splash 720 is a venue exclusively for the gay crowd, and a very handy option for people leaving the nearby nightclub The Week, but who want to keep the high-octane party going. Splash features a heated swimming pool and about 40 private rooms (singles and doubles). You’ll have to book either a room or a locker in order to get in. Rua Guaicurus 720, Lapa (4329 0204/ splash720.com.br). Open 24 hours daily Prices Locker rental R$30; single room R$75; double room R$146. SHOP Shopping Frei Caneca This shopping mall consolidated its position as a gay epicentre back in 2003 after a Frei Caneca security guard asked two gay men at the mall’s entrance to stop kissing. The mall’s management made up for it with a special, kiss-themed promotional event. It’s the cruisiest mall on Earth. Consolação (3472 2000/ freicanecashopping.com). See Shopping & Style for venue details.

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Music & Nightlife Black celebrations

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São Paulo’s heavy metal scene might not be instantly apparent: much of the action takes place with little in the way of public advertising, or in neighbourhoods slightly off the beaten track for visitors. But if the steady flow of major metal acts that come through SP are anything to go by, the fanbase is huge: Black Sabbath and Megadeth are both headed this way in October, and a three-hour spectacular by Avantasia, the German vocalist Tobias Sammett’s operatic supergroup, has already sold out HSBC on 29 June. June also brings the commercially-minded, faux-metal posturing of the rock act Halestorm. Grammy-award-winners in their native USA, in SP the band will be playing the modest, 1,700-capacity Carioca Club (Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 2899, Pinheiros, 3813 8598, liberationstore.net. 6pm, 16 June, R$160). Maybe it’s a sign of metalheads’ traditional insularity, but it’s the lesser-known groups that continue to draw a steady crop of black-T-shirt-clad audiences. According to Fernando Oster, drummer for the band Woslom, a wide array of ‘high quality local bands playing lower-priced shows’ keep SP’s metal fans satisfied. And if you’d like to check that for yourself, two upcoming festivals offer very reasonably priced routes into the local strains of metal’s many subgenres. Up first, Panzer Fest rolls into the usually more indie-friendly confines of Cine Joia on 15 June. The eponymous headliners Panzer, a Chilean band from the 1980s, are the night’s closest example of the classic heavy metal sound, built on a foundation of sweeping anthemic lines (sung in Spanish) and twin guitars à la Iron Maiden. The five-band bill also includes a great deal of uncompromisingly hard-hitting local talent. Look out

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From touring international acts to festivals arranged by local purists, São Paulo’s diverse heavy metal scene caters to all tastes, says CM Gorey

Defenders of the faith (clockwise from top) Avantasia’s Tobias Sammett, SP’s NervoChaos and Chilean band Panzer

for longtime paulista favourites NervoChaos, whose death metal and hardcore mix fuel the mosh-ready breakdowns from 2012’s album, To The Death. The lineup is completed by early thrash-inspired purists Woslom, the groove-oriented riffing of Command6, and the dramatic precision of openers Forka. If your idea of an evil night begs a more occult feel than a regular music venue can provide, consider the intimate bookstorecum-bar Livraria da Esquina, which welcomes the charmingly named Brotherhood Deathfest on 7 July, showcasing four national bands with a commitment to the death metal sound. Think infernally low-pitched and complex guitar figures, bewildering drum

violence, and growled, guttural vocals describing all things vile and grisly. Unintelligibly. The bands Vomepotro, Anarkhon and the mainly female Insanity Force open for Ayin, a methodical Mato Grosso do Sul trio releasing their debut album, Ordo Ab Chao. It’s sure to be a loud, dark and relentless night. If that sounds potentially terrifying, the Xtreme Noise Festival also begins this month, scattered over six dates between 15 June and 3 July at Teatro Mars and Inferno Club. The Xtreme title is somewhat of a misnomer: the overriding vibe is more mid-1990s southern Californian skate rock. Metalheads would likely argue that despite the event’s best intentions, the music won’t be nearly as extreme or as

noisy – and certainly not as heavy – as their tastes demand. Panzer Fest takes place at Cine Joia, Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv) on 15 June, 8pm. Tickets R$25. Brotherhood Deathfest takes place at Livraria da Esquina, Rua do Bosque 1254, Barra Funda (3392 3089/livrariadaesquina.com.br) on 7 July, 6pm. Tickets R$15. Xtreme Noise Festival takes place at Teatro Mars, Rua João Passalacqua 80, Bela Vista (3384 5115/teatromars.com.br) and Inferno Club, Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/infernoclub.com.br) between 15 June-3 July. Tickets R$150. For the full programme, see last.fm/festival/3528797.

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11/06/13 13:02

This month in music Fela Kuti – Album Graphic Designs

Festa Junina Get in touch with your country side in the heart of the megalopolis with a three-act show featuring the sounds of Brazil’s North-Eastern hinterlands

Irmãos Aniceto, Chico Paes de Assaré and Joquinha Gonzaga play at Auditório Ibirapuera, Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, no number, Portão 3, Parque do Ibirapuera (5908 4290/auditorioibirapuera.com.br) at 7pm on 22 June. FREE

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Fela Kuti – O Design Gráfico dos LP’s is at Museu Afro Brasil, Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral, no number, Portão 10, Parque do Ibirapuera (3320 8900/ museuafrobrasil.org.br) Open TueSun., 10am-5pm. FREE

Afrobeat manifestos Fela Kuti LP covers by the Nigerian designer Lemi Ghariokwu helped define the genre

The works of sleeve designer Lemi Ghariokwu take centre stage at the Museu Afro Brasil. Márcio Cruz reports Horns, drums and dance. Some of the major elements of afrobeat are as simple – and complex – as samba. Perhaps this is why the style that started with an initial half-dozen or so vocal enthusiasts, has now won over a large portion of faithful São Paulo fans. Or at the very least, the revellers at Festa Fela, Safári 70 and Bafafá, and followers of the band Bixiga 70, heroes of the independent scene. (see box, below) Up until now, the genre’s most memorable moment locally has been 2012’s Virada Cultural performance by Seun Kuti, son of the legendary Nigerian musician, composer, political activist and afrobeat founder Fela Kuti (1938-1997). Seun Kuti’s show drew thousands of paulistanos – and hundreds of African immigrants – to soak up afrobeat’s captivating

blend of jazz, funk and West African Yaruba music. The latest homage to afrobeat is the exhibition ‘Fela Kuti – O Design Gráfico dos LP’s’ (Fela Kuti – Album Graphic Designs). There’s a total of 41 covers on display by the artist Lemi Ghariokwu, who hails from the ‘Kalakuta Republic’, Kuti’s nickname for the communal compound where he lived with his family, friends and other musicians in Lagos, Nigeria. Ghariokwu’s vibrant and anarchic aesthetic continues to influence the genre, from afrobeat party flyers to other musicians’ album art. Most of Kuti’s record sleeves function as illustrated political manifestos, using collage, irregular typography and handwriting. Coupled with the combative songs penned by Kuti – a staunch opponent of the authoritarian regime gripping Nigeria in the 1970s – Ghariokwu’s covers served as a counterpoint to afrobeat’s vivacious musicality. The selection will be displayed on the Museu Afro Brasil’s ground floor until 18 August (those who prefer

Music & Nightlife

a chronological narrative should begin at the end of the exhibition), and will also appeal to fans anxious to hear the live albums for the first time (collectors tend to battle for the rare LPs). To help contextualize Nigeria’s troubled political scene, Ghariokwu appears in a video, where he also reveals his favourite Kuti works, Before I Jump Like Monkey Give Me Banana (1976) and the incendiary Zombie (1977), the latter being the musician’s most popular album in Nigeria. The art was donated by the Cuban ethnologist, political scientist and current Salvador resident Carlos Moore, author of the 1981 biography Fela – This Bitch of a Life (Nandyala, R$40), which Moore self-released for Brazilian readers in 2011.

Rustic charm is usually hard to come by amidst São Paulo’s concrete landscape, but this month brings Brazil’s countryside into the city with an abundance of festa junina parties – countrified gatherings – including this musical tribute to the sertão region in SP’s greenest space, Ibirapuera Parque. Kicking off the festivities, Irmãos Aniceto, a centuries-old institution from the state of Ceará, continues its tradition of folkloric major-key fifeand-drum performance, complete with synchronised moves and matching outfits. Perhaps less mercurial with his moves than the Irmãos, the lively, gleeful melodies from octogenarian Chico Paes de Assaré’s quick fingers continue to impress, solidifying his reputation as an accordian virtuoso. Rounding out the night of down-home fun, Joquinha Gonzaga (nephew of the King of Baião, Luiz Gonzaga) and his band continue in the footsteps of his legendary uncle and the Pernambucan musical style he helped to create. CM Gorey

Afrobeat IN São Paulo Dig deeper into the work of the Nigerian musician Fela Kuti via bands, parties and blogs The Parties Safári 70 A party headed by the journalist and DJ Ramiro Zwetsch, at Boteco Prato do Dia (Rua Barra Funda 34, Barra Funda, 2371 8534, botecopratododia.org). Catch the next edition on 19 July. Bafafá is a diverse mix of hypnotic Moroccan gnawa music, Angolan kuduro and semba styles, and Brazilian genres like coco and boi. It’s an itinerant event, but stay in the loop about

their upcoming clubnigh ts by visiting the group’s Facebook page (facebook/bafafa.festa). Festa Fela, DJs Ramiro Zwetsch and Mzk’s annual event dating back to 2007, is held close to Fela Kuti’s birthday, 15 October (pt-br.facebook.com/festa.fela). THE Website Also created by Zwetsch, radiolaurbana.com.br features entire programmes dedicated solely to afrobeat and Fela Kuti.

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The Bands Bixiga 70, who draw inspiration from the afrobeat of Fela Kuti, samba and Afro-Brazilian drumming, are a standout on the São Paulo circuit. ‘Balboa da Silva’, from the band’s self-titled debut album was lauded by The Guardian as one of the global music scene’s best tracks. Clube de Bolso, an instrumental band of Unicamp students, boasts a repertoire of funk, afrobeat and Brazilian pieces.

Folksy ways Irmãos Aniceto hit it

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11/06/13 13:03

Nightclubs Sustainable festival multi.art How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots.

Indie & rock

Funhouse Set in a house in the typical style of this neighbourhood, Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club. On its off days, Funhouse can be a little empty and depressing; but when the party’s good the queue can go round the block. Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/funhouse. com.br). Open 10pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50. Inferno Club Located towards the bottom end of busy Baixo Augusta, live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres, like funk, get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Escape to the mezzanine for a bird’s-eye view. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/infernoclub. com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

Music & Nightlife

Eclectic

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Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wall-to-wall MPB. Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm). Bar Secreto More of a club than a bar, this candle-lit room is decked out with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers, lots of paintings on the walls, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and electronic. This exclusive club (you can’t call – contact is only via email), caters to fashionistas and hipsters. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm-5am Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$22; cover R$80. Gloria Functioning as a go-to gay club during the rest of the week, on Thursday nights this former church in Bela Vista rocks a mixed crowd of university kids and B-boys from the ‘periphery’ – São Paulo’s grittier outer reaches – with hip hop, soul and dancehall. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/clubegloria. com.br). Open 11pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$9; caipirinha R$18; cover R$20-$50. Hot Hot Big with the fashion crowd and rich kids, Hot Hot has a plush upstairs bar decorated in lurid 1970s wallpaper. Downstairs a dark dancefloor has one of the best soundsystems in the city, pumping out electronic beats from Brazilian and international DJs. Rua Santo Antônio 570, Bela Vista (2985 8685/hothotsite.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$30-$80. Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has a slightly exclusive air, with high ceilings and decor inspired by 19thcentury gentlemen’s clubs, right down to the stuffed animal heads on the walls. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com. br). Open midnight-6am Tue, Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$30-$120. Love Story Love Story isn’t about the music – it’s about a decadent party that doesn’t get going until well after 2.30am, when party animals, off–duty hookers, tourists, clubbers and whoever else is still awake lets loose until the early hours. Rua Araújo 232, República (3231 3101/danceterialovestory.tur.br). Metrô 3, República. Open midnight-late MonSat. Prices cover R$60.

glittering mirrored corridor that takes you from the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

Returning for its tenth edition, the festival that fuses music with technology, art and sustainability, Sony INNER multi.art has expanded to the point that this year’s event requires three stages. The Swedish duo Drop Out Orchestra (pictured above) and the US remixer Goldroom headline the main stage’s electronic lineup. DJ Nu-Mark gets top billing on the hip-hop and soul-centric Red Bull Music Academy stage, while Sâo Paulo DJ duo Database highlight the new Damn Fridays stage. But despite the event’s

Electronica Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s houseturned-club, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. DJs spin everything from electro rock and ‘80s disco to house. Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92. blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50. Clash Club The young, pretty crowd at this swish, ultra–modern club gets seriously animated to the latest electronic music. Rua Barra Funda 969, Barra Funda (3661 1500/clashclub. com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. Open midnight-late Tues, Fri, Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; cover R$50-$60. D–Edge D–Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a

Serralheria Espaço Cultural Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, this no-frills venue in a small warehouse in Lapa has a laid-back vibe organic growth and self-proclaimed and super-friendly owners. Blending bar and exhibition space, you’ll find constant ‘beta’ state, DJ and everything from photography to video creator Dré Guazzelli, of Lions art and sculpture on display in the Club, D-Edge and Casa 92 fame, covered outdoor bar area, while eclectic has kept the event close to its live music sets are hosted in the indoor roots: all the rubbish produced space. Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 at the festivities is slated for 0124/escapeserralheria.org). Open recycling, and much of the decor 9pm-2am Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices originates from reused materials. small bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10. Tapas Another nonchalantly cool This year’s theme is ‘colours, trips hangout on the Augusta strip, Tapas and celebration’, and will once is a two-storey bar that looks like an again feature live graffiti, photo upmarket squat from 1970s Amsterdam. exhibitions and circus performers. The ground-floor bar is small, but a long TW Eventos Rua Guaicurus, 820, mirror behind the bar doubles up as a Lapa (3868 9944/innermultiart. space-amplifier and menu, with prices com). 9pm, 26 June. R$50-70. written on it in white ink. DJs and live bands pack out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, jazz. Lines can reach round the corner, so pulsing in time to the relentless beats, be sure to arrive early. Rua Augusta 246, and a beautiful terrace. The crowd Consolação (tapasclub.com.br). of wild young things gets Metrô 2, Consolação. Open there late and stays until 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; 8pmthe early hours. Alameda 2am Sun. Prices chope Olga 170, Barra Funda R$5.80; caipirinha (3665 9500/d-edge.com. R$11; cover R$5-$15. br). Open midnightRey Castro In 7am Mon, Wed-Sat. this Cuban-style ago p S ly Prices can of beer R$8; manse straight outta asonab s re d n a caipirinha R$12; cover Havana, Latin expats Hearty Italian classic R$20-$80. and other picante priced Eating Out e Se Disco This club is a types dance to salsa, favourite with the city’s merengue, reggaeton and young, beautiful and Latin pop by DJs and live rich, although it’s quite small and bands. There’s hip hop and soul often beyond crowded, so it might take on Tuesdays. Rua Ministro Jesuíno a little patience until you find your Cardoso 181, Vila Olímpia (3044 4383/ spot out there on the dancefloor. The reycastro.com.br). Open 7pm-late Tuehighlight of the space – a creation of Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha the architect Isay Weinfeld – is the R$14; cover R$18-$50.

IN THE AREA

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11/06/13 13:08

Football & World Cup 2014 Wider goals

Back in January, during a game in the Paulistão championship, Santos came onto the pitch in their trademark black and white shirts, except this time, they bore a subtle yet momentous change: in addition to the sponsor logos, the front and back of the players’ kits displayed the initials INJR – Instituto Neymar Junior (neymaroficial.com), a social project which had been established and launched by the team’s star striker Neymar that same month. Neymar followed the launch of his institute, which aims to help sectors of the Brazilian population in need through sporting, educational and social activities, with some major moves both on and off the pitch – the virtuoso attacker was able to secure partnerships with NGOs and private businesses before being transferred to Spain’s Barcelona club. Now, on the eve of the FIFA Confederations Cup, in which he is poised to be one of the Brazilian team’s stars, Neymar has launched his most expressive project yet – The Sede de Vencer (thirst to win) project, which will take drinkable water to around 85,000 Brazilians in five of

Marcos Bezerra/Futura Press

The Instituto Neymar Jr. aims to take drinking water to communities in the FIFA Confederations Cup cities. Marina Monzillo reports

Got his back Neymar and his former Santos clubmates sport his insitution’s name boldly across their shirts

the tournament’s cities. The project will donate 850 filters, designed to clean and purify water drawn from the soil, developed by the Waves for Water NGO (wavesforwater.org), which was founded by North American ex-surfer Jon Rose in partnership with the INJR. He’s still new to the field of social responsibility, but Neymar’s charisma is his greatest asset, and has made him one of Brazil’s most

sought after faces in advertising. By using his mass appeal to do good, he may be hitting goals every bit as beautiful as those he famously nets on the pitch. Despite Neymar’s act of solidarity, the reality is that very few of Brazil’s football stars are committed to their own social projects. Corinthians defender Paulo André, whose IPA institute (institutopauloandre.org.br) seeks to tackle social exclusion in the

outskirts of Campinas (SP), and former São Paulo, European and national team players Raí and Leonardo, whose NGO Fundação Gol de Letra (goldeletra.org.br) reaches out to around 1,300 children and young adults through a slew of activities in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, may be Neymar’s best role models for the moment. Nonetheless, the sky’s the limit as Neymar learns how to leverage sports marketing for social good.

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13/06/13 12:15

Eight teams meet in five Brazilian cities this month in the Confederations Cup. Cecília Gianesi discovers how seriously people take this World Cup run-through The Confederations Cup (Copa das Confederações) is usually regarded as just a lead-up to what really matters: the FIFA World Cup. But at the matches in practice – which take place exactly a year before the big event – emotions ride a lot higher than if it were just a regular training or friendly match. Argentina, for example, took its 4-1 defeat very seriously back in 2005, when Kaká, Ronaldinho, and Adriano led the team with a whole lot of samba. Olé, Argentina’s main sports newspaper, went to press without a cover the next day, pretending something had gone wrong in order to avoid commemorating their sworn rivals’ victory in print. Started in 1992, this alternative international tournament was, in its first two incarnations, held in Saudia Arabia under the name of the King Fahd Cup. In 1997, the ball was passed to FIFA, which gave it its current name and took over the organisation of the tournament with eight participating countries. As in the all-important World Cup, Brazil has already established itself as champion, having won the Confederations Cup three times.

This year, the hosts are also the tournament’s defending champions. And although Messi’s team didn’t qualify, leaving Brazil free from worrying about Argentinian revenge, it doesn’t mean that things are going to be easy. Brazil’s group faces an array of formidable opponents. In the first phase alone, Coach Felipão’s team faces traditional threats Italy, and Mexico, which prevented Brazil from winning the ever-so-coveted Olympic gold last year. Brazil will also have to overcome both FIFA’s first-ranked Spain, and Uruguay, winner of the 2011 Copa América. With the Brazilian team already set, they’re counting on the skills of forward star Neymar, who leaves for Barcelona at the tournament’s end; the versatility of defensive midfielder Paulinho; and the safety of centre back player Thiago Silva, in order to win their way back to being one of the best teams in the world. Held in five different Brazilian state capitals, the Confederations Cup is expected to draw throngs of yellow-and-green-outfitted fans to the new and freshly renovated stadiums. São Paulo, which is slated to host the opening of the World Cup, isn’t part of this year’s circuit, which means that paulistanos will have to travel elsewhere to see any games in person. Even if Brazil loses this year’s contest, it should gain some consolation from the superstitious belief that the Confederations Cup champion stands little chance of winning the World Cup: to date, no team has won both tournaments’ cups two years in a row in any

Rafael Ribeiro/CBF

Confederations Cup 2013

Test flight The Confederations Cup should show Brazil’s readiness for 2014

of the eight Confederations Cup competitions. Should Brazil take the international contest’s top spot, however, where better to reverse this curse than right here at home?

Group A

Group B

Italy

Japan

Sat 15 June 4pm Brasília

BRA

vs.

JAP

Sun 16 June 4pm Rio de Janeiro

MEX vs.

ITA

Wed 19 June 4pm Fortaleza

BRA

vs. MEX

Wed 19 June 7pm Recife

JAP

vs.

ITA

Sat 22 June 4pm Salvador

BRA

vs.

ITA

Sat 22 June 4pm Belo Horizonte

JAP

vs. MEX

Semi-final 1

Mexico

Semi-final 2

Wed 26 June – 4pm Belo Horizonte

Thu 27 June – 4pm Fortaleza

Spain 3rd round 2nd round 1st round

3rd round 2nd round 1st round

Sports

Brazil

FIFA Confederations Cup 2013. 15-30 June, in Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte, Salvador, Fortaleza, Brasília and Recife. For tickets and information, see fifa.com.

Nigeria

Tahiti

Uruguay

Sun 16 June 7pm Recife

SPA

vs. URU

Mon 17 June 4pm Belo Horizonte

TAH

vs. NGA

Thu 20 June 4pm Rio de Janeiro

SPA

vs.

TAH

Thu 20 June

7pm Salvador

NGA vs.

URU

Sun 23 June

4pm Recife

URU vs.

TAH

Sun 23 June

4pm Fortaleza

NGA vs.

SPA

3rd PLACE

Sun 30 June – 1pm Salvador

final

Sun 30 June – 7pm Rio de Janeiro

1st Group A

1st Group B

Loser Semi-final 1

Winner Semi-final 1

2nd Group B

2nd Group A

Loser Semi-final 2

Winner Semi-final 2

62 timeout.com/sao-paulo June 2013 790 FOOTBALL_11June_bia.indd 62

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SP Essentials 64 66

CAIO PIMENTA/SPTURIS

Map Resources

Walk this way Pedestrians trek along Avenida Paulista,one of São Paulo’s most famous streets

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Resources Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

HEALTH For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil. Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of a notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação

da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

instant São Paulo

INST

@timeoutsp

TELEPHONES DiaLling & codes

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

juan cifrian (@10kjuan)

EMERGENCIES

Submit your Instagram pics of SP for a chance to see them on this page. Our own Juan Cifrian (@10kJuan) captured this telephone repair worker on the wires close to our office. To share your shots with us, just tag them with #timeoutsp, and we’ll pick the best one each month. tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

your licence was issued. Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

CYCLING

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit). The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3.20, or for R$5 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand. Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

WALKING

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3.20), or use a Bilhete Único. Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket. A ride to any destination costs R$3.20 and

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot. The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo. com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img.org. br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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