Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.32/jul. 2013 by Time Out São Paulo

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dition E h s i l Eng 32 Issue # ISSN 2179-894X

+ TIJUANA PRINT ART FAIR + LOCAL ARTISANAL CHEESES + JOSS WHEDON INTERVIEW

SP UNCORKED Sip and swirl your way around the city’s new wave of wine bars

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This month in São Paulo 22 July-21 August 2013

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Regulars

Art & Museums

City beat

The word on the street.

Features Joss Whedon

The Much Ado About Nothing director talks about his love of Shakespeare, and shooting an entire film in his own house.

Brave new world

Film 50 Reviews of this month’s releases, plus a way-in to the 485-strong animation lineup at the Anima Mundi festival.

Gay & Lesbian 54

A new crop of bars across R town are giving wine the OVE attention it deserves. We CSTORY discover the best spots to sample both Brazilian and imported wines.

Discover Projeto Purpurina, a support group for the city’s young gay community and their families.

Music & Nightlife

Food & Drink Say cheese

Bars & Cafés

Football After the highs of Brazil’s

Diego Rousseaux/Press Image

Shopping & Style

1990s alt-rock favourites, The Breeders, come to town, plus reviews of the new Kanye West and Sigur Rós releases.

The people and places promoting the country’s underrated and undervalued artisanal cheeses.

Freshly baked organic breads and an airy, comforable space at Le Pain Quotidien. Plus the best beers to drink this winter.

The Tijuana print art fair returns for its fifth edition, bringing cultural excitement to the neighbourhood of Bom Retiro.

Confederations Cup glory, plenty of challenges still loom large for 2014’s World Cup.

Spoilt for choice The sky-high selection of wines at Enoteca Decanter

SP Essentials 59 Essential information for visitors, and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your pix in print.

Design in mind

Portuguese design maven Mónica Penaguião brings her store Poeira to São Paulo, with a wealth of creative, high-end home furnishings.

Quote of the month

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover photography Shutterstock

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Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

I am currently gathering forces to defend the queijo colonial from the west of Santa Catarina and Paraná. We have to defend this cheese. If not, it will be history before too long. Pack of cards Artistic postcards at the Feira de Arte Impressa do Tijuana

Bruno Cabral, creator of Mestre Queijeiro See page 25

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City Beat

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Big Picture

Heated campaign Kicking off in June, days after Brazilians hit the streets in their thousands, originally against public transport fare rises, the Confederations Cup took place amid a sea of protest mixed with more predictable football fever – not least when Brazil won the tournament. In this image, on Avenida Paulista on 18 June at the height of the unrest, a street collector gathers Coke cans from a Confederations Cup display, set alight during the disturbances.

Editor’s letter June 2013 will surely go down in the annals of Brazilian history. This time last month, when we were writing in eager anticipation of the forthcoming Confederations Cup, seems like a lifetime ago. The competition came and went, along with a wave of street protests – the largest the country has seen in more than two decades. Brazil found itself a fixture in world headlines, and that looks set to continue as next year’s World Cup approaches, the protest movement

evolves, and the government – federal, state and municipal – strains to keep up with it all. From Brazil’s complex federal politics to the politics of cheese – yes, cheese, and yes, politics – in Eating Out we’ve taken a look at the state of artisanal Brazilian cheese, talking to two passionate promoters of the stuff, who are seeking out, supporting and selling the produce of cheesemakers from across the country. And what better to team with

cheese than wine? In our cover story, we raise a glass to the emerging wine scene here in São Paulo, spearheaded by a new wave of wine bars and adding an eminently welcome new dimension to the city’s bar scene. And from there to Hollywood, we speak to director Joss Whedon to find out how he transformed Shakespeare’s verse into a film, in his own backyard.

Catherine Balston Deputy Editor

KEEP UP Read the cover story from our June-July issue at j.mp/TOSP_1strest

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Find us online … timeout.com/sao-paulo

Stay up to date with the best of what’s happening in São Paulo daily by heading to timeout.com/ sao-paulo. Join us on the social networks too: we’re on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Time Out São Paulo is published by Editora Dansville Ltda. Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil. Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini

Tell us what you love about the city on our Facebook page – facebook.com/ timeoutsaopauloenglish

Snap São Paulo and share it with us on Instagram, using the hashtag #timeoutsp. Follow us at @timeoutsp

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy Editor (Portuguese) Marina Monzillo Contributing Assistant Editors Rafael Argemon, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Christine Puleo Proofreader Fabiana Caso Rio de Janeiro Editor (English) Doug Gray Editor (Portuguese) Alice Moura

Coming up online Head to timeout.com/sao-paulo and timeout.com/rio/en to find our curated selection of art exhibitions, gigs, concerts and club nights, day by day, in both São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Read on for a taster of what’s online.

são Paulo timeout.com/sao-paulo

Design Art and Picture Editor Bia Gomes Contributing Art and Picture Editor Emerson Cação Print Production Gráfica Aquarela Contributors Text Geoff Andrew, Brent DiCrescenzo, David Fear, Anna Fitzpatrick, Eric Hynes, James Manning, Matt Phipps, Kevin Raub, Anna Veciana Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro

Administration Finance Director Gregório Correa de Ávila Finance Analyst Sueli Maria da Silva

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Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro

PARAMORE Hayley Williams and company arrive with their emo brand of pop-punk to close out the month with two dates at Espaço das Américas, on 30-31 July. j.mp/TOSP_param

LUCIEN FREUD The exhibition ‘Corpos e Rostos’ (‘bodies and

faces’) brings the work of the famed Berlin-born, British painter to the MASP, with a spotlight on his print-making. j.mp/TOSP_lfreud

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD Cathy Runciman International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins

Rio de janeiro timeout.com/rio/en

THE CAT EMPIRE The Latino

rhythm-loving Australian ska and funk ensemble make their debut on carioca soil, on 2 August. bit.ly/TORJcat

Lima Restobar The Peruvian food resurgence continues apace at Botafogo’s newest ceviche restaurant and pisco bar. bit.ly/TORJlima

No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all. Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

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Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

The key to our five-star rating system

Urban Arts Rio finally

receives its very own version of São Paulo’s original street art gallery and poster store. bit.ly/TORJurb

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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From Buffy to the Bard

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The American director behind Buffy the Vampire Slayer, Joss Whedon, talks to David Fear about shooting a Shakespeare film in less than two weeks

ans of Joss Whedon have learned to expect little other than the unexpected from the game-changing producer, writer and director. This is an artist who would take a TV series about vampire killing with the goofiest, most Valley-girlish title imaginable and transform it into the most incisive show about teen angst ever. He may take a troubled boob-tube project – a Western set in outer space, no less – and force it to rise, phoenix-like, from the ashes as a summer sci-fi blockbuster, Firefly. Or he might decide to follow up the biggest boxoffice hit of the year, one chock-full of special effects and men in tights, with a scrappy blackand-white adaptation of a Shakespeare comedy shot for less than the cost of a day’s catering on The Avengers. Which is exactly what Whedon did, in fact; where mere mortals might spend a break from filming the aforementioned Marvel superhero epic unwinding, the 48-year-old filmmaker instead gathered a gaggle of actor friends and shot a guerilla production of Much Ado About Nothing literally in his own backyard. The combination of Shakespeare’s verse and the well-honed crack-sarcastic comic timing of various Whedonverse alumni (Amy Acker, Alexis Denisof, Nathan Fillion) initially suggests a lost episode of Buffy the Vampire Slayer, but the cult auteur isn’t courting irony. As he told Time Out, this off-the-cuff production was the culmination of a long infatuation with the Big Bard’s tale of bickering lovers. So you were on an 11-day break from production on The Avengers, and naturally, you decided to shoot something… No, no, we shot it in 12 days. I mean, c’mon, to try and shoot something in 11 days – that would be madness. You’d finished production on The Avengers but hadn’t started post-production, correct? It was a month after we finished production but while we were still working on post-production; we’d been editing and tweaking stuff as we were shooting the film, simply because the schedule was so accelerated. Some people at Marvel were even offended by the idea that I was going to take a vacation, but I told them, ‘Look, this was a grueling shoot; I need a week off.’ About a month before we took the time off, however, my wife [executive producer Kai Cole] suggested out of the blue that, instead of relaxing on a beach, how about we shoot Much Ado About Nothing around our house? For some odd reason, I thought: this is a great idea. One of her

strengths as a producer is that she just wants people to do things she knows they can do well. It’s something we have in common, and I wanted Alexis and Amy to head up a movie. I wanted people to see how funny Nathan (Fillion) could be with the language. I knew they could do these things beautifully. So, filled with this ridiculous sense of giddiness, I just threw myself into it. ‘Yes, I can adapt this play in two weeks! Yes, I will rehearse it every other afternoon! Yes, I shall take advantage of the fact that my friends are insanely talented and know this text very well!’ This essentially started with you hosting Sunday afternoon Shakespeare readings at your house over the years, right? It probably starts even further back then that, when my mom and stepdad would host readings over Thanksgiving. But yeah, around season five of Buffy, we started hosting these Shakespearecentric lazy Sundays, which were inspired by my family’s holiday pastime. This particular play was one we’d done at the house

‘I don’t kill anyone this time, okay? I promise you, no beloved Shakespearean characters die by my hand’ several times, with Alexis and Amy reading the parts of the lovers Benedick and Beatrice – and with those songs you hear in the film, which I’d written specifically for one of the readings. There was always a great energy around those particular stagings, so when Kai and I started talking about filming something in the interim, this was the first thing that came to mind. Had you ever thought of filming this play before, either in the interim between TV shows or around the time of the 2007–08 writers’ strike? No, because as much as I’d seen great productions of it over the years and I’ve always loved the writing, I didn’t feel like I really understood the coherent whole of what Shakespeare was doing with the narrative. I didn’t feel like I had a cinematic take on it. Then when Kai gave me the book during The Avengers shoot, it was like reading it for the first time. Suddenly, I thought, oh, I know exactly how to do this. Then it was go time.

Do you remember the first production of Much Ado About Nothing you saw? It was a letter-perfect production of it at the Regent’s Park Open Air Theater when I was in high school in London. I saw it three times; they were doing it in rep with A Midsummer Night’s Dream, which I also saw three times. I remember the way the actor who was playing Benedick said the line ‘This can be no trick!’ – and just losing my shit, it was so gut-bustingly funny. I had great love for the play, though it was years before I really got that the story is presenting two sides of the same coin. Shakespeare is deliberately juxtaposing a very light tale with a very dark tale, and he’s saying that what we think we believe and feel are basically the manipulations of what our society expects us to think and feel. All that, plus it’s got a happy ending…I mean, that’s a story worth telling. [He sticks his face very, very close to the recorder] Everyone out there, I’m just going to say this once: I don’t kill anyone this time, okay? I promise you, no beloved Shakespearean characters die by my hand. I’d wager that if you lined up 20 different writers and asked them what they love about Shakespeare’s writing, you’d get 20 different answers… Wait, are we going to do that right now? [Looks around frantically] Are 20 writers preparing to spring out of the shadows? They are, aren’t they? Where should I get in line? We are not going to do that, no, but given that I’ve got you, Joss Whedon, here, let me ask: What is it about his work that keeps you coming back to it? You know what it boils down to? He loves everything and everybody so much. I mean, his love of language is obvious, as is his love of storytelling; the guy could switch genres or moods at the drop of a dime. But Shakespeare is the sort of dramatist who will give you insight into the souls of his stock characters, much less his lead characters. He will wow you with the intensity of a major revelation into the emotional DNA of humanity – and then he will give you a pratfall. You can go back to his writing for the laughs, for the ideas, for the way the little details and the big picture come together…you could get high off one of his syllables. It’s the complete package. He gives beautiful lines to gravediggers and jesters, much less princes and kings. Right. And no matter how big or small the part is, you always get the sense that every gesture and line counts. I remember when I was directing Adam Baldwin in the Firefly pilot, he kept playing up the part’s anger. I mean, his character is kind of a thug, but it felt off. So I took him aside

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Watch your language Amy Acker (left) as sharp-tounged Beatrice, and Jillian Morgese as kindly-but-strong Hero in ‘Much Ado About Nothing’

It starts with asking questions… …and ends with you wanting to find out what those answers are. That’s why I needed to do this, really. [Pause] It’s because Borachio is in love with Hero, by the way. That’s the only explanation for me. Once you realise that, it opens up the text in this really incredible way. It also makes Margaret’s story so compelling and sad as well. So knowing that I had all these great actors ready to go, I wanted to make sure that there was a reason for them to show up every day, even if the parts weren’t that big. That’s a recurring theme in your work: the notion of people banding together for a common cause. It’s there in Buffy, in Firefly, in The Avengers and, to a certain degree, in this. It may be Shakespeare’s text, but this film definitely feels like a Joss Whedon project. Well, a filmmaker has to be specific and go beyond what’s been written – even if said writer is the most brilliant English-language author ever. You have to skew the material to what moves

you, and the notion of a community coming together to face darkness is an appealing notion to me. The same goes for powerful female characters – not just Beatrice, who’s obviously a strong role, but with a supporting role like Hero, who could not be simpering. I wanted her line readings to implicitly say, ‘I have a right to stand up, and have my say.’ That’s very much part of my world as well. So yes, this play had a lot of overlap with thematic stuff I’ve been exploring for a while. Having gone from shooting The Avengers to shooting a movie in 12 days at your house, do you think that the process of doing a smaller, more guerilla-ish production

Greg Gayne/ press image

and said ‘Adam, don’t play him as a criminal. You aren’t the mad guy, you’re the cool guy and this story is really all about you. Think of the character as a lead.’ And he adjusted perfectly. That’s how I think about Shakespeare’s characters, particularly the ones in Much Ado. Someone came up to me after the premiere and said, ‘Wow, this is so different from The Avengers.’ And I thought, actually, it really isn’t. You have to make each of those superheroes shine, and get the audience to feel like they know where each of those people are coming from before they collectively save the world. I had to know why they were willing to risk everything.

Hands-on approach Whedon directed his latest movie in the comfort of his own home

like this will alter how you work on bigger projects in the future? There’s never enough time to work on something whether you’re doing it in 12 days or 12 months, really, and necessity is always the mother of invention regardless of the project’s size. You need that for creative inspiration; the one thing I don’t want is, well, everything. We had enough problems with The Avengers, in terms of juggling schedules and getting sets built on time, that it was a guarantee things would never be that easy. But there would be days when we’d be on these beautiful, perfect locations, and I’d just be stymied on what to do. Then we’d move to go a very difficult place to shoot in – and I’d be in heaven. [Laughs] The more you bump against the realities of the world, the more you’re forced to make creative decisions that feel more lived in, more believable, or just more exciting and daring. I feel like the restrictions are part of what makes things work. What it all boils down to, though, with whatever I do – is to try to make something for everybody. Shakespeare wrote for the masses, his work was and is incredibly popular, and I know that there are still some people who simply won’t go see a Shakespeare movie, period. But I showed the movie to a few friends of mine, and both of them told me, I’d never go see something like this in a million years, and I loved it. We didn’t make a movie where [affects lordly falsetto] ‘We’re here to stately declaim blah blah blah.’ It’s a romantic comedy. People may take a minute to adjust to the language, but it’s about two people who do ridiculous things in the name of love. Who can’t relate to that? Much Ado About Nothing is released on 26 July. Turn to the Film section for our review.

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NEW world

xperimental cocktail clubs and craft beer bars may be the height of fashionable boozing in the most cosmopolitan of cities across the globe. Here in São Paulo, however, it’s wine that is promising to add a new dimension to the city’s bar scene that has traditionally catered to less-than-discriminating beer drinkers. The winds of change smell of chardonnay and merlot. ‘In Brazil, until a few years ago, we drank expensive and bad wines,’ says São Paulo-based Daniela Romano, creator of Selo 7 Sommeliers, a Brazilian rating system for wines. ‘But technology has meant that better, younger wines can now be produced for lower prices’, say explains. And as Brazilians’ disposable incomes have gone up – especially in São Paulo – so has interest not only in drinking wine, but also in learning more about it. Wine courses, enotourism and wine drinking clubs are all on the rise. We are experiencing a boom.’ And while drinking wine is certainly no novelty in the upper echelons of São Paulo society – the best restaurants having long been home to substantial wine lists and knowledgeable sommeliers – the bar scene is finally catching up with the public’s growing thirst for wine. Sleek new wine bars, basement taverns, and wine-shop-cum-bar hybrids have started to spring up over the last two years, offering a refreshing alternative to the chope (draught beer) and caipirinhas that are standard orders at most casual corner bars. For the most part, imported Old World labels and Brazil’s New World neighbours Argentina and Chile dominate the wine lists at the new crop of bars, though there are good local wines to be found. The wine bar and restaurant Bravin, owned by one of the city’s best-known sommeliers, Daniela Bravin, is one of the best bets for exploring boutique Brazilian wines, be it by the bottle or glass. ‘I think Brazilian beer is worse than Brazilian wine, so I’d rather have an imported beer and a Brazilian wine,’ says Bravin, who seeks out interesting local wines, with forty or so to choose from in her cellar. Other sommeliers are more radical; ‘I would recommend pairing a Cave Geisse Rosé Brut with feijoada,’ says Aldo Assada, the sommelier at the recently-opened high-tech wine bar Bardega, suggesting a sparkling rosé from one of Rio Grande do Sul’s boutique wineries to go with the traditionally humble Brazilian bean and pork stew. Although it’s posible to find fabulous local boutique wines by the glass in the city’s growing ranks of wine bars, it’s still way more difficult than it ought to be. Difficult, but not impossible, as you’ll discover in our round-up of ten of the city’s best wine bars. We’ve sniffed out tips on superior local tipples from the bars’ sommeliers, and where there aren’t any on the menu, we’ve recommended an affordable imported alternative. For those looking for a bottle or two to take home or out for a meal, we’ve also scoured town for the best-stocked wine shops, as well as the restaurants that don’t charge corkage, meaning you can sip your favourite vintage – or the cheapest wine you could find, if that’s more your style – without paying a pricey mark-up. We’ll drink to that.

SHUTTERSTOCK

A growing taste for wine is adding a new dimension to the city’s bar scene. Kevin Raub goes in search of SP’s best wine bars, and a good Brazilian vintage

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WINE BARS

Alameda Jaú 1844, Jardim Paulista (3063 3961/divinewinebar.com.br).

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Bravin

INSIDER TIP Every once in a while Bravin opens for a ‘Domingueira’ – a special Sunday barbecue with wine pairings, announced via Daniela’s Instagram: @danielabravin BEST BRAZILIAN BY THE GLASS 2012 Routhier e Darricarrère Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot (R$23) BEST VALUE BRAZILIAN BOTTLE The limited-edition A.R.M.M., Cab. Lot 3 (R$110)

Divine Wine Bar

INSIDER TIP Live Thursday night jazz from 9.30pm (cover R$20) is money well spent BEST VALUE BOTTLE 2010 Alento Tinto, Portugal (R$100) SPLASH OUT BOTTLE 2009 Stoneburn Pinot Noir, New Zealand (R$138)

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DESCENDING INTO the cellar-like depths of Divine feels exactly the way a wine bar should: low-lit and sexy. Moody yellow spotlights illuminate the striking exposed stone and brick walls, with limited seating making this an intimate spot. Despite having only 16 or so wines by the glass (R$19 to R$90), Divine is nonetheless a devoted wine bar. Help yourself to a glass of one of the additional line-up of higher-end wines in the eight-bottle Enomatic wine dispensing machine; the tiny 25ml pour brings expensive vintages into the reach of ordinary mortals. Divine’s stronghold is New World wines (bottles start from R$76), earmarked on the menu where appropriate with symbols denoting exceptional vintages, biodynamic wines and house recommended choices. You’ll find four Brazilian sparkling wines amongst the 120-bottle list, including some from the coveted Cave Geisse boutique winery, in Rio Grande do Sul. The hide-away atmosphere here coupled with the good eats – go for the excellent microraviolis with camembert, macadamia nuts and sage (R$38) – make this the perfect spot for settling in with a bottle or two. Park up at one of the more private high banquettes and make an evening of it.

WINE DEVOTEES of the city unite at the bar and restaurant Bravin, where the unconventional owner, the shaven-headed, tattooed sommelier, Daniela Bravin, has an approach to wine that’s as non-conformist as her appearance. There is no list. Patrons place themselves completely in her hands, accompanying her to the cellar for the night’s best choice based on price, preference and – let’s be honest here – Bravin’s whim. Over a well chosen soundtrack of Brazilian oldies, Bravin peruses her exquisitely curated cellar, some 40 deep in Brazilian boutique wines alone, though loyal to the world over. If you don’t want to opt for a whole bottle, choose one of around six wines, opened each night and available by the ‘glass’, served in very generous 250ml mini decanters, and priced between R$19 and R$23. An insider, speakeasy air pervades the downstairs bar, separate from the more elegant restaurant above. Decadent nibbles include the breaded brie wedge with fruit compote (R$47) or the trio of artisanal sausages (R$28). Upstairs, hearty fare comprises the menu, though one gets the feeling the food is just the supporting act for the wine show. It all feels very bold, and just what the city’s wine scene needs. Rua Mato Grosso 154, Consolação (2659 2525)

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WINE BARS

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Bardega

INSIDER TIP Black dots on the Enomatic machines indicate wines that are 2-for-1 during happy hour (6.30-8.30pm Tue-Thu) BEST VALUE BOTTLE 2011 Eugen Müller Forster Mariengarten Riesling Kabinett, Germany (R$96) BEST GO BIG BOTTLE 2005 La Rioja Alta Viña Alberdi Reserva, Spain (R$180)

IT’S EASY TO BE intimidated by Bardega, whether by the huge range of wines to choose from, or by the technology. The sleek newcomer is one of the latest wine bars to open in Itaim, cementing the business-centric neighbourhood as the go-to place for oenophiles. Frequented by a mostly post-work crowd, Bardega’s interior – a barn-like space with exposed wooden beams and an assortment of dangling lamps – is dominated by an entire wall of self-serve Enomatic wine dispensing machines. The machines are both Bardega’s blessing and its curse. Almost 100 wines can be tasted by the glass, dispensed in snifters of 30ml and 60ml, or in the more generous 120ml size, and ranging in price from R$4 to R$320. Grab a glass, insert your keycard and away you go. The blessing is that you can try famous, outlandishly unaffordable wines like Château d’Yquem and Vega Sicilia without draining your retirement fund; the curse is that this is the wine lovers’ equivalent of being a kid in a candy store, where deciding which buttons to push can be dizzying. Strategically placed iPads provide reading material for each wine at the touch of (another) button. Nibble on dishes from the Mediterranean menu. You can’t go wrong with the plate of delicious Spanish and Italian cheeses (R$25 to R$37), or the lamb loin with asparagus (R$32), though the mushroom risotto (R$22) was on the dry side. Just don’t let the wine go to your head – those push-button samplers can add up quick. Rua Doutor Alceu de Campos Rodrigues 218, Itaim Bibi (2691 7579/bardegawinebar.com.br).

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WINE BARS

INSIDER TIP In the evenings, almost any bottle in the shop can be ordered by the glass BEST BRAZILIAN BOTTLE 2010 Cave Geisse Brut (R$79) BEST VALUE BOTTLE 2010 Viña Chocalan Gran Reserva, Chile (R$99)

Rouge Bar a Vin ON A STRETCH OF Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz that’s synonymous with highend hobnobbing, the newcomer Rouge Bar a Vin offers a pleasant change of scenery. The unpretentious attitude towards wine teamed with prices that won’t leave you in tears means it’s easy to while away an evening here. Moody lounge music plays while you peruse the choice of mostly French and Old World wines by the glass (R$11 to R$29), conveniently presented on a handy dry/light/fruity/full-bodied ordering chart. To complement the wine, the menu offers sandwiches, salads, grilled meats and a few culinary curveballs thrown in the mix, such as the bolinho croque – a deep fried ball of ham, cheese and bechamel (R$24.50). The space itself is all exposed brick and ruby reds, with naked bulbs suspended from the high ceiling. Sit out on the breezy front patio to watch the world go by, or tuck yourself covertly away in the back garden, though you’ll need to arrive early if you want to bag a table mid-week – the excellent 2-for1 on wines by the glass during happy hour (6-8pm, Tue-Fri) draws the city’s well-heeled oenophiles, as well as the bargain-thirsty drinkers, out in droves. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 561, Itaim Bibi (2628 8377/rougebar.com.br)

THIS CURITIBA-BASED upmarket chain is part wine emporium, part Italian restaurant and is an ultra casual spot to overindulge. Find a space at the U-shaped bar – the centrepiece of the emporium and a popular spot for solo diners wanting to grab an after-work trattoria tipple without the accompanying table-for-one self-consciousness. The early evening suit-and-tie crowd gives way to cuddling couples and families by dinner time, when substantial eats like oxtail with red wine (R$49) or gnocchi doused in spare-rib ragoût (R$35) can be paired with some 570 bottles, including a dozen bottles of Brazilian wine. Look out for the excellent 2008 Quinta do Seival, made with Portuguese grapes in the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul (R$99), or opt for one of over 300 daily-changing wines available by the glass (R$16 to R$19). Themed tastings are hosted from time to time – often to the tune of live music – if you're interested in delving a little deeper. Rua Professor Tamandaré de Toledo 51, Itaim Bibi (3078 6442/lojavino.com.br).

Shining path A golden spiral staircase connects the two floors at Beato

INSIDER TIP: Fresh oysters are flown in from Santa Catarina on Thursday nights BEST BY THE GLASS: 2009 Château Lagrézette Purple Malbec, France (R$23) SPLASH OUT BOTTLE: 2009 E. Guigal CrozesHermitage, France (R$192)

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Vino!

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WINE BARS

Best of the rest

It’s La Rioja by way of Pinheiros, and French flair in Jardins at these wine bars, says Catherine Balston

the back garden if the weather is right. Or for a more intimate tête à tête, head to one of the quieter corners of the recently opened upstairs floor. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 1,127, Pinheiros (3034 0344/lamadrilenasp.com.br).

Continental charm The French-focused Bodega Franca serves and sells wine

Wine bar may comprise two thirds of the name of this rustic Jardins spot, but with no more than 12 wines available by the glass, it certainly doesn’t live up to its name. Ample seating at the long wooden bar – ideal for the solo patron – goes some way to make up for that, however. Thick-set wooden tables and terracotta-coloured walls lend an Italian taverna vibe, and Italy is the main focus of the menu, with

AVEK

An upstairs, downstairs set-up at the recently opened Bodega Franca incorporates a brightly lit wine store on the ground floor with a charming candle-lit restaurant down in the basement, where suspended rusted iron chandeliers and small jabuticaba fruit trees are covered by a green awning. To stop by for just a glass of wine, find a spot outside on the street-facing terrace or settle into the back corner of the shop where two tables make for a cosy hideaway. To drink? Pore over the menu or peruse the store’s shelves for a wider choice. All the bottles on display – more than 350 in total – can be consumed there and then, with no mark-up. The focus is on French and Italian wines,

SACRA ROLHA

On the up Wine shop, bar and restaurant in one, Avek is a Jardins newcomer with an affordable choice of South American wines that includes a Chilean Molineiro Carmenère 2011 at R$39. For an indulgent appetiser, go for the bite-sized baked lobster pastries (pierogi de lagosta, R$39) brushed with truffle butter. Alameda Franca 1045, Jardim Paulista (3081 3870/bodegafranca.com.br).

20 bottles of Italian wine, and risottos, steaks and pastas, as hearty accompaniments. If you’re looking

With a mosaic of wine crates comprising the façade of this self-styled ‘champanharia’, it’s clear from the get go that the décor here has gone down the ‘themed’ route rather than the sophisticated elegance you’d normally associate with a champagne bar. That said, the space is pleasant enough – opt for the leafy front courtyard when the weather is clement. Choose from around 130 wines, twelve of which are available by the glass (R$16). If you’re not a purist, opt for one of the wine cocktails, like the caipi-champagne, with bubbly, fresh fruits and ice (R$17). Rua Rio Grande 304, Vila Mariana (4304 0300/sacrarolha.com.br).

LA MADRILEÑA

This Pinheiros wine bar is a delight, thanks to the friendly service from the English-speaking Spanish/Brazilian owners Edson Sarabia and Emerson Mafra, and the novelty of picking your tipple from a tightly curated rack of 45 reasonably priced Spanish wines – sourced mostly from Rueda, Ribera Del Duero and La Rioja. Tapas are made by Sarabia’s mum, adding to the homely vibe. Score a table in

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BODEGA FRANCA

Open case Al fresco is the way to go at Vila Mariana’s Sacra Rolha

for buzz, don’t expect to find it here after 10pm. Alameda Jaú 1595, Jardim Paulista (4323 1667/rubiwinebar.com.br).

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Open for just three months, Avek has got a long way to go until its service is as polished as its sparkling new wine glasses. A beautifully designed, seductively-lit back room, with a maze of lamps mapped out across one wall, comprises the restaurant, while the brighter front space, with a double-height whitewashed brick wall, blends wine shop and bar. There, boxes and racks of wine compete for space with tables and chairs, and a bar lined with stools. Chow down on French fare – like a half dozen oysters (R$12) and plates of charcuterie (R$16), though avoid the steak tartare (R$38) with its lumps of cooked egg – while sipping on a choice of over 100 wines. Rua Joaquim Antunes 48, Jardim Paulistano (2507 5932).

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RUBI WINE BAR

Leg up Cured hams are one of the authentic Spanish eats at La Madrileña Dono

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

MANHATTAN

Time Out São Paulo magazine is available at all the hotels featured above and at SP Turis offices, including at Guarulhos and Congonhas airports. It’s also available at Movida car rental agencies, and can be found at all the city’s best newsstands

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WINE SHOPS AND B.Y.O

CASA DO PORTO Biodynamic and organic wines are still very much a niche in São Paulo, with just a handful of restaurants taking it seriously on their menus – the top contemporary D.O.M. (see Restaurant listings) and the romantic bistro Enoteca Saint VinSaint (Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 811, Vila Nova Conceição, 3846 0384, saintvinsaint.com.br) to name just two. Casa do Porto stocks around 20 biodynamic and organic wines from France and Spain. The store, which has branches in a handful of other cities, has two or three of its 600 or so wines open for customers to taste by the glass (R$12-$30). Bottles of wine start at R$25 and go all the way up to R$2,500 for a Château Mouton Rothschild Magnum. Alameda Franca 1225, Jardim Paulista (3061 3003/ casadoportovinhos.com.br). BEST AFFORDABLE BRAZILIAN WINE 2007 Maximo Boschi Brut. R$39.

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ENOTECA DECANTER Owned by the wine importer Decanter, Enoteca Decanter is another upmarket wine shop turned bar. Despite offering gourmet bites and 80 wines by the glass (R$6.92-$177) the vibe is still very much that of a sleek store. Leather chairs, mirrored walls, and double-storey wine racks are just the sort of setting to attract high-end wine clients who stop by to try out a few wines before buying a few cases. Rua Joaquim Floriano 838, Itaim Bibi (3702 2020/ enotecadecantersp.com.br). BEST AFFORDABLE BRAZILIAN WINE 2011 Matiz Touriga Nacional, Rio Grande do Sul. R$53.15.

Bring your own Book in to the restaurants with no or low corkage

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VINCI This boutique wine importer sells over 1,500 wines online, over the phone, and in their elegant Jardins store, with one of their specialities being the wines from the family-run vineyard Vina Errazuriz in the Aconcagua valley in Chile. Ask the staff for advice, or go on Saturdays when you’ll usually find a couple of bottles open for tasting. Rua Pamplona 917, Jardim Paulista (3130 4500/vinci.com.br). BEST AFFORDABLE BRAZILIAN WINE 2008 Angheben Barbera, Rio Grande do Sul. R$45.50.

Baby Beef Rubaiyat Dining out in São Paulo can be a costly habit, and drinking wine can as much as double a restaurant bill. Baby Beef Rubaiyat is far from being a budget option, but with no corkage to pay on the first bottle (R$35 thereafter) it’s a good choice for dinner à deux. Team a good red with the new Burger Royal (see photo, above) – 220g of prime beef (R$55). Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2954, Itaim Bibi (3165 8888/ rubaiyat.com.br).

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EXPAND This prolific Brazilian wine distributor sells online and in shopping centres across São Paulo, with a shop-cum-wine-bar rubbing shoulders with designer boutiques inside the upmarket Shopping Cidade Jardim (see Shopping listings). At the weekends, a small selection of their catalogue of over 1,000 wines are served by the glass (prices vary). Shopping Cidade Jardim, Avenida Magalhães Castro 12,000, Cidade Jardim (3552 2115/adegaexpand. com.br). BEST AFFORDABLE BRAZILIAN WINE 2010 Casa Valduga Raízes Cabernet Sauvignon, Rio Grande do Sul. R$62.

Where to buy a good vintage or a Brazilian gem

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Wine shops

VINEA Set across two adjoining houses in Ibirapuera, this wine store sells a small selection of imported wines, mostly from Italy and France; you won’t find any Brazilian wines here. Reds are the focus, with just a handful of sparkling wines for sale. Outside the city, in the upmarket western suburb of Alphaville, the Vinea store has taken a more gourmet approach, with a wine bar and restaurant, and a space for budding enophiles to do courses. Rua Manoel da Nóbrega 1014, Ibirapuera (3059 5200/vineastore.com. br). Other location Alameda Araguaia 540, Alphaville (2078 7880). BEST WINE FOR UNDER R$75 2007 Joffre e Hijas Gran Reserva, Malbec, Argentina. R$70.

Brasil a Gosto While this Brazilian restaurant does a commendable job of supporting local producers when it comes to its wine list, there’s no corkage charge if you’d rather bring your own. Rua Azevedo de Amaral 70, Jardim Paulista (3086 3565/ brasilagosto.com.br). Marcel If you’ve been saving a bottle for a special occasion, make a night of it at Marcel, with excellent contemporary French food coupled with no corkage charge. Rua da Consolação 3555, Jardim Paulista (3064 3089/ marcelrestaurante.com.br). Martín Fierro Do a decent steak justice with a sublime bottle of red. At this Argentinian steakhouse, you can bring your own wine and only pay corkage after the second bottle (R$25 per bottle). Rua Aspicuelta 683, Vila Madalena (3814 6747/ martinfierro.com.br). Robin des Bois Hearty French fare is the order of the day at this cosy bistro. Pay no corkage if you dine with your own wine. Rua Capote Valente 86, Jardim Paulista (3063 2795/ robindesbois.com.br).

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafĂŠs

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Eating Out 24 Bars & CafĂŠs 36

Cubist Grilled salmon cubes in a wasabi emulsion at Thai-fusion restaurant Tian

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Eating Out Say (Brazilian) cheese

Corner store Set on a quiet street corner in Vila Madalena, the charming A Queijaria sells hard-to-find Brazilian cheeses

flavour whatsoever. The wealthier paulistanos buy imported cheeses. The decent Brazilian cheeses simply aren’t available to buy.’ Oliveira’s regular cheese-hunting expeditions across the country have stocked his shelves (alongside jams, chorizo and other handmade goodies) with a plethora of wholly artisanal, largely unpasteurised cheeses. Small slabs of slate, marked up with chalk, denote each cheese’s origin, from Minas Gerais to inland São Paulo, Santa Catarina, Rio Grande do Sul and even the North-

catherine balston

from the ashes of the now defunct Casa da Li restaurant, just a few doors down, where Oliveira sold his cheeses for three months as a test bed to gauge interest. ‘The demand for our cheeses was huge, and that gave us the security to know that the shop would work,’ Oliveira tells us. The idea had been maturing for some time, and the result is now one of the few options for those looking to buy quality local cheese in the city. ‘Supermarkets have a really weak choice of Brazilian cheeses, and those they do sell have no

catherine balston

When it comes to artisanal fare, Brazilians are spoilt for choice, from the endless array of traditional sweets that read like an anthropology of local history and ingredients, to the more ubiquitous savouries, like pão de queijo – cheesey bread balls. If there’s one artisanal food you probably wouldn’t associate with Brazil, however, it’s cheese. Sure, there’s no shortage of stringy mozzarrella loading up pizzas, or creamy Catupiry and requeijão sneaking their way into everything from deep-fried pastéis to sushi, or the squeaky sticks of queijo coalho, sizzling on barbecues at the weekends. And no self-respecting Brazilian breakfast table would be complete without a few slices of bland, processed cheese. But Brazil has a rich, underexploited heritage of cheese-making. We’re talking interesting cheeses made by small producers from north to south, but which are surprisingly hard to buy in São Paulo. Which is exactly what cheese enthusiast Fernando Oliveira hoped to change when he opened São Paulo’s first shop dedicated to Brazilian cheese – A Queijaria – in April this year. The bright corner shop is set in a pretty Vila Madalena house, infused with the ripe scent of maturing cheese - ‘queijo’, in Portuguese. It rose

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A Queijaria is the city’s first shop dedicated solely to Brazilian artisanal cheese. Matt Phipps tucks in

Cheesey hits Fernando Oliveira (right) goes in search of interesting artisanal cheeses to stock his newly-opened shop

Eastern state of Pernambuco. The best-known cheeses hail from Minas Gerais. Take the queijo da Canastra, for example, a hard cow’smilk cheese from the fertile Serra da Canastra region. The Canastra Real (R$60 per kilo) comes in a big wheel, as mellow as a good Emmental, while the Ze Mário (R$55 per kilo) is smaller – a pale yellow, dense, salty cheese. Some lesser-known Mineiro varieties to try are the Serra do Salitre (R$30 per 600-800g unit), a salty number not unlike a pecorino, though it’s made from cow’s milk rather than ewe’s milk. The Serrano do Rio Grande do Sul (R$68 per kilo) is a dependable, buttery hard cheese with a hint of the pastures where it is made – up in the mountains of Campos de Cima da Serra in Rio Grande do Sul, which has one of the coldest climates in Brazil. The real revelations on our visit, however, came in the form of the Campo Redondo (R$48 per kilo), a Mineiro cheese that packs a rounded punch of sweetness, saltiness and creaminess when it’s really young, maturing quickly to become a harder, Parmesan-like cheese when it’s 4-6 months old. And the sublime Suape – a sweet, Emmental-inspired cheese

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catherine balston

Rua Aspicuelta 35, Vila Madalena (3812 6449/alimentosustentavel. com.br). Open 10am-7pm MonFri; 10am-4pm Sat.

Aboard Discover the names of cheesess, chalked up on slate boards

The cheese master

Food & Drink

A passionate enthusiast, Bruno Cabral launched mestrequeijeiro.com.br to sell a curated selection of Brazilian artisanal cheese. He talks to Matt Phipps How did Mestre Queijeiro start? In 2010, I was living in Barcelona and decided to come back to Brazil to learn about artisanal cheeses. Cheese is my true passion. I travelled 6,000 km through Minas Gerais, visiting farms, talking to producers, recording production methods and studying laws regarding the sale of unpasteurised-milk cheese. That was when I decided to create Mestre Queijeiro. I noticed that the law was hindering the sale of traditional and artisanal Brazilian cheeses and, worse still, Brazilians knew a lot about imported cheeses, but nothing about Brazilian cheese. I had to do something to change that. What are you hoping to achieve with Mestre Queijeiro? The most important job for me is to advocate for the artisanal producer. They’re the keepers of a secular tradition; they’re part of Brazil’s history. I want to urge them to keep believing in themselves and their product. Getting the consumers interested in, and talking about, these cheeses, and thereby making sure that markets sell them, is also important. And I want to try to and change the obsolete, antiquated 1952 law that governs products of animal origin, which places no value on culture and tradition. Which cheeses do you sell? I only sell Brazilian artisanal cheese, from Minas Gerais, São Paulo, Ceará, and sometimes from Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul. The most famous one is the artisanal cheese from the Serra da Canastra, in

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from Pernambuco that’s one of the shop’s priciest (R$80 per kilo). Soft cheeses seem to be less of a focus, though Oliveira had just had some new deliveries in as we went to press, like the Reblochon-like cheese Mangabeira, from Pernambuco (R$80 per kilo), and a strong blue goat’s cheese, Azul do Bosque (R$50 per 300g piece) from Joanópolis in São Paulo state. Chances are no two visits will meet with the same selection, be it in different varieties of cheese, or the same cheeses that have matured – but that element of surprise is precisely one of the pleasures. Look out, for example, for the cheeses stored in a wood-and-gauze box – they’re unpasteurised cow’s-milk cheeses that are less than 60 days old, which Oliveira cannot sell by law – until they come of legal age, that is. It’s an antiquated law that dates back to 1952, and Oliveira is hopeful that it may change this year, following a long-running campaign. Not least since – ironically – it contradicts a more recent law protecting the artisanal cheese-making methods in Minas Gerais, as part of Brazil’s cultural heritage. Oliveira seems happy to talk about cheese for hours. Just make sure he keeps slicing you off tasters while he waxes lyrical.

Wheel of fortune Bruno Cabral, the self-styled cheese master

Minas Gerais. These days, Mineiro cheese is the best-known and most consumed cheese in Brazil. There are 30,000 families living off the cheese produced there, and the state represents one fifth of milk produced in Brazil.

Order the cheeses on mestrequeijeiro. com.br via contato@mestrequeijeiro. com.br or calling 96411 6196. Delivery charges vary.

Taste test

Do you promote rarer cheeses? Across the country we have more than ten kinds of traditional cheeses being produced for more than a century. I am currently gathering forces to defend the queijo colonial from the west of Santa Catarina and Paraná. This cheese was traditionally produced by immigrants from Italy or Germany who brought the recipes with them. In 1985, there were 41,404 producers and in 2006, there were 3,389. These numbers are alarming. We have to defend this cheese. If not, it will be history before too long.

When Bruno Cabral is not hunting down cheeses, he’s the chef at the Basque tapas bar Donostia (see Bar listings), where he also hosts cheese tastings. Join the next tasting on 24 July and 21 August, with three local cheeses – an ash-coated goat’s cheese, a Mineiro raclette and a São Paulo blue goat’s cheese – as well as Spanish cheeses and hams. Price R$70-$80 (doesn’t include drinks). Reservations via 3034 0996 or contato@donostia.com.br.

Empório Cruzília Also in the Mercado Municipal, Empório Cruzília stocks its own suprisingly good local versions of brie, camembert, gouda and gorgonzola (approx R$10 per cheese), made in the town of Cruzília, in the south of Minas Gerais. Rua D, box 8, Mercado Municipal, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3228 0814/cruzilia.com.br).

EAT Empório Restaurante Blending restaurant, bakery and organic grocery store, EAT is a gourmand’s paradise. Alongside imported cheeses, you’ll find local La Bufalini buffalo mozzarella and Serra das Antas goat’s cheese and brie. Avenida Doutor Cardoso De Melo 1191, Vila Olímpia (5643 5353/ emporioeat.com.br).

Extra Cheese Still hungry? Read on for where else to stock up on decent Brazilian cheeses Queijos Roni Gracing one of the entrances to the Mercado Municipal, the Queijos Roni stall is run by Roque Bruno Tadeu Peta, better known as just Roni, the

fourth generation of a family of cheesemakers, originating from Italy. Roni supplies cheese for many of the official ‘Mercadão’ events. Look out for the long provolones dangling from the ceiling, and don’t miss Roni’s fresh ricotta and mozzarella. Rua D, box 2, Mercado Municipal, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3326 1488/queijosroni.com).

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Diner’s digest

Tian A welcome addition to the city’s Asian dining scene, with contemporary dishes to share

Paulo’s increasingly cosmopolitan credentials, it’s suprising there aren’t more options when it comes to Thai food. Some no-expensesspared restaurants serving authentic Thai cuisine have opened up – and closed shortly thereafter. One restaurant that has weathered the years is Mestiço (see listings), and the clue to its success

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There’s a Japanese restaurant on every other corner in São Paulo. Chinese and Korean restaurants abound, too, if you know where to look. But for a city with São

Culinary comings and goings around town

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Ringside Wok-fried rice with squid, crispy duck, carrot and basil leaves (R$28)

Fancy façade A hostess greets guest at the sleek new Itaim restaurant

is perhaps in the name – ‘mixed race’, blending Asian and Brazilian flavours, and toning down the spice levels for the local palate. Mestiço was opened in 1997 by the Thai chef Marina Pipatpan, who went on to spend ten years living abroad before moving back to São Paulo recently to open Tian. Like Mestiço, Tian brings a mix of cuisines to its menu, with nods to Thailand, China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam and the Philippines. The setting for the new venture is sleek and contemporary: pink glass separates the kitchen from the dark, sexy dining space, with a large window overlooking the sidewalk. Whether you’re there in a group or as a couple, the way to go is by ordering a sequence of dishes to share. We suggest starting with the delectable squid rings fried in a beer-based take on tempura batter, accompanied by a kimchi sauce made from the Korean spiced cabbage dish, let down only by the lack of spiciness you’d expect from the original (R$22). Mestiço regulars will love Tian’s Golden Baskets (R$15) – extracrunchy pastry cups filled with chicken and corn – a miniature, more delicate version of Mestiço’s popular starter, kratong tong. Tom kha, a classic Thai soup with chicken, Kaffir lime leaves, shimeji mushrooms, coconut milk, galangal and lemon grass is smooth and intoxicating (R$20). For wok dishes, try the rice with Chinese sausage, shrimp, ginger and fried egg (R$25) – a classic combination in Asia. To taste some lighter fare, order the fresh fillet of grouper, marinated for hours in miso (soybean paste) and then cooked in a champagnebased sauce (R$38). Round off your personalised tasting menu with something sweet, like the koaniew mamuang (R$12) – moti rice with a coconut and mango sauce. The ultra-modern setting and reasonable prices (reasonable, depending on your appetite) have been an instant hit, and set Tian apart from its pricey Itaim neighbours. Silvio Giannini Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 36, Itaim Bibi (2389 9399/tianrestaurante. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Thu, Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-mignight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices sharing dishes R$16-$38.

Ponto Natural For a healthy lunch choice within spitting distance of Avenida Paulista, the brand new Ponto Natural, set in a only 1940s house, serves up a buffet of salads, hot dishes and homemade desserts. Rua Haddock Lobo 187, Consolação (2306 2117/ restaurantepontonatural.com.br). Mozza Dedicated to mozzarella in myriad forms, Mozza has opened up where the Spanish restaurant Alma María shut down last year, with much of the stunning Arthur Casas design still intact. The team behind the venture are big league restauranteurs behind some of the city’s top Italian eateries. Rua Oscar Freire 439, Jardim Paulista (3063 5820). Casa Santo Antônio A surprising number of Italian restaurants in the city are owned by former Fasano staff. The latest to open is Casa Santo Antônio, set in a spacious ’50s house in the southern suburb of Granja Julieta. Avenida João Carlos da Silva Borges 764, Granja Julieta (4328 6205). iSushi Catering to the Vila Olímpia office lunch crowd, iSushi claims to offer a high-tech, healthy, self-service midday meal. Individually-wrapped sushis can be mixed and matched, while those with less patience can opt for a pot of yakissoba or an oriental salad. Rua Doutor Cardoso de Melo 1679, Vila Olímpia (3044 6207/ isushistore.com.br). Wagaya Offering a welcome alternative for the office crowd around Metrô Vila Madalena, this spacious sushi spot does a fixed-price all-you-can-eat rodízio at lunchtime (R$38.90) and dinner (R$46), or à la carte options that include grilled fish, temaki and yakisoba. Avenida Pompeia 2549, Pompeia (3675 5604).

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Food & Drink

Reviews

Sole focus Mozza’s funky interior

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Food & Drink

The hot list – dining How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes. We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so. We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers. BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro ITALIAN Cantina e Pizzaria Piolin

A true survivor on Baixo Augusta, where it once lived a solitary life in the midst of sex clubs, Piolin is a cheap and cheerful Italian spot where everyone, it seems, is a regular. That might have something to do with its long-standing popularity with theatre-land’s grafters – the house sponsors local performances, whose casts eat half price. Utterly unpretentious, the place has been open for 40 years under the guidance of José Alves de Godoy, known to all as Mosquito. Try his tried and tested invention – lasagna alla romanesca, with white sauce, peas, ham and mushrooms, and live it up with the luvvies. Rua Augusta 311, Consolação (3256 9356/ cantinaepizzariapiolin.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1.30am Mon-Fri; noon5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; noon-2am Sun. Main courses R$41-$68 (for two); lunch R$17.50; couvert R$12.50. BARGAIN

under R$20 midweek, or a bit more on Sundays, though curiously it shuts up shop on Saturdays. A newer, slicker Vila Olímpia branch opened a few years ago, bringing this top veggie lunch option to that area’s hordes of office workers. Viaduto Nove de Julho 160, 1st Floor (3255 4263/ nutrisom.com.br). Open 11am-3.15pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am4.30pm Sun. Prices buffet R$19.90 Other location (R$27 Sundays). Rua Ramos Batista 443, Vila Olímpia (2639 5799). BRAZILIAN Varanda Copan Sitting

at the foot of the Niemeyer-designed Copan, Varanda makes for a solid dining option should you find yourself famished on a busy night in Centro. A mix of professionals as well as groups of friends congregate mid-week to drink, chat and snack. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer wide views of the streetscape, still abuzz until late evening. The low-key menu matches the low-key vibe, with à la carte options including pasta and beef, or fish dishes such as grilled salmon topped with a tangy caper sauce (R$42). If you’re in that part of town come the weekend, settle in for the popular lunch buffet (loaded with all the Brazilian favourites, and then some). Just don’t expect the best service in the world. Avenida Ipiranga 200, República (3120 4442/varandacopan. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$25-$40, lunch R$35.90 per kilo; couvert R$5-$10.

Consolação & Higienópolis AMERICAN 210 Diner Done out in the style of a classic American diner, albeit a swish, upgraded one, 210 Diner has quickly become a go-to spot in Higienópolis for those in search of a hearty slice of Americana. We’d consider the mushroom-flecked macaroni cheese as a possible side order for our last-ever meal – consider, we said; and the tuna-melt sandwich ain’t half bad either. Burgers are a good choice too – get us a piggie burger while you’re in there, will you? It’s hunky and chargrilled, and topped with deboned pork ribs in barbecue sauce. Rua Pará 210, Higienópolis (3661 1219/210diner.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 7-11.30pm Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10.45pm Sun. Main courses R$16$52; lunch R$27-$49. ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom fettuccine is one example of why Carlota wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy shrimp with parma ham risotto. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/ carlota.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight

Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48$73; couvert R$11. MIDDLE EASTERN Kebabel ‘Beer and kebabs’ is Kebabel’s tagline, and boy do they deliver on both those promises – as well as delivering to your home, too, if you live in the area. Served in a traditional pitta, the kebabs are skinny but packed full of flavour. Try a falafel kebab with vinaigrette, pickles, Arab spices, and tahini (sesame paste) on the side. Meat lovers can opt for lamb, chicken or kofta kebabs. To quench your thirst, order an award-winning Colorado Appia or Indica (chope R$7.50), brewed in Ribeirão Preto, or one of a range of bottled imports like the Belgian Delirium Nocturnum (R$36). Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 22, Consolação (3259 1805/kebabel. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-midnight Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$18.90-$22.90. Other location Rua João Moura 871, Pinheiros (3062 7530). ECLECTIC Mestiço A grand dame of fusion restaurants, GLS-friendly Mestiço continues to update itself by regularly changing the artwork and trying out new menu items, while sticking to its guns of good cooking. The water feature at the back and the table layout might be a tad dated, but the food continues to be a draw. Order a veggie or Thai curry for mains, and you’ll get decent portions served

to 1980, this is one of the old guard of vegetarian buffets in downtown São Paulo, and it remains the one to beat. The simple, somewhat dated décor may not create the best first impression, but the food is always made with an imaginative twist. Start off by grazing on a variety of salads or a bowl of soup, and then hit the hot food counter, which typically features a dozen or so Brazilian dishes that vary each day. Cheesecake and ice-cream round off this high-quality buffet, and it’s a steal at

Keiny Andrade/PRESS IMAGE

VEGETARIAN Nutrisom Dating back

Lid on it Help yourself to a bowl of velvety mandioquinha soup this winter at fancy lunch buffet, Beth Cozinha de Estar

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CONTEMPORARY Sal Gastronomia From the outside, the black façade looks more like the entrance to a dungeon than a fine dining experience. Venture round the back, and grab a seat in the courtyard – a space that the restaurant shares with cutting edge Galeria Vemelho – or inside where the narrow space would be claustrophobic were it not for the bustle of the kitchen seen behind a glass wall. The gnocchi were excellent, in a rich, tomato and lamb sauce, and the cupim – a cheap cut from the hump of the zebu cow, which can be tough – was served semi-shredded and wholly delicious. This is good eating that is easy on the pocket too, right down to the wine menu with its simple sauvignon blancs. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3151 3085/ salgastronomia.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-3pm, 8.30pmmidnight Sat. Main courses R$38-$68; couvert R$6-$12. BARBECUE Sujinho The best time to get

down and dirty at Sujinho is in the small hours of the morning before it shuts at 5am, when you’ll find meat-hungry punters tucking in to big hunks of picanha and espeto misto (mixed grilled meats). This traditional bisteca is still known to many old-school paulistanos as ‘Bar das Putas’ (the whores’ bar) for its clientele, who would come to relax after work back in the ’70s and ’80s, when Consolação was a place to pick up prostitutes. These days Sujinho has smartened up its image considerably and there are now three restaurants plus a hamburger joint. Rua da Consolação 2078, Consolação (3231 1299/sujinho. com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.30am-5am daily. Main courses R$30.25-$78.75 (for two); couvert R$9. No credit cards. Other locations Rua da Consolação at 2063 and 2068 (3231 1299); Avenida Ipiranga 1058, República (3229 9986). BRAZILIAN Tordesilhas Fans of Brazilian high gastronomy will not be disappointed by this rare example of a famous chef making truly traditional dishes. Mara Salles was inspired by her roots in Pernambuco (a state on the north-east coast) to work mostly with local ingredients and to highlight regional dishes. Salles’s culinary wizardry is best sampled in the pato no tucupi (duck and manioc stew). For dessert, try the cupuaçu ice cream – a mind-blowingly tangy Amazonian fruit. Tordesilhas regulars will miss the restaurant’s excellent-value tasting menu, which is no longer being served following a change of address in May to the upmarket Jardins. Alameda Tietê 489, Jardim Paulista (3107 7444/ tordesilhas.com). Open 5pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$53-$77.

Lapa, Perdizes, & Barra Funda

Food & Drink

with steaming jasmine rice. Chocoholics will love the brownies – ask the waiter to load up on the sweet, custardy chocolate sauce. And as a finishing touch, the bill shouldn’t break the bank – a bonus in a city where restaurant prices can occasionally seem tantamount to daylight robbery. Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 277, Consolação (3256 3165/mestico.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.45ammidnight Mon; 11.45am-1am Tue-Thu; 11.45am-2am Fri, Sat; 11.45ammidnight Sun. Main courses R$34$72.50; lunch R$41-$44.

PERUVIAN Killa The food at this amiable local eatery is not just Peruvian, but novoandina – ‘new Andean’. Peruvian cuisine is increasingly important and the novoandina concept is to mix preHispanic cooking techniques with other elements like European cooking. Here at Killa, the emphasis is on Peru’s wonderful signature dish: the raw fish salad, ceviche. And it’s delicious, with lightly-flavoured, delicate flakes of fish gently bathed in citric flavours. Our only criticism? The small portions, which might leave customers with a big appetite still hungry after lunch. Rua Padre Chico 324 (08551 8511/killa.com.br). Open 7-11.30pm Tue-Thu; 7pm-midnight Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$39. ITALIAN Mangiare Hidden away

in Vila Leopoldina, a fast-growing neighbourhood in the west of the city, Mangiare packs in as many diners as possible to its expansive but cosy former warehouse space. After initial teething troubles, Mangiare is now running like a finely tuned orchestra – pastas are served al dente, grilled meats are succulent, and the waiters are calm and collected. Don’t skip the delicious couvert of homemade breads. The maltagliati pasta with Bolognese ragoût (R$32) is a delicious option, but if you’re dining à deux, try the la vera bisteca alla fiorentina (R$120 for two people) – a T-bone steak covered in garlic and rosemary. Avenida Imperatriz Leopoldina 681,Vila Leopoldina (3034 5074/mangiaregastronomia.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight MonSat; noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Main courses R$32-$60.

Thai Namga Satisfying a craving for Thai food in São Paulo is no easy task, so when we heard about this progeny of the much-loved takeaway Tele-Thai, we were in there like a shot. Thai classics like fragrant green curry, light and crunchy pad Thai and khao soi kai – a mild curry noodle soup – are on the menu alongside more inventive dishes like the succulent pork-filled squid. For a sensory overload, order the miang kham – build-your-own bundles of Japanese spinach filled with lemon, chillies, coconut and nuts. Rua Apiacás 92, Perdizes (2507 1774/namga. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$23-$39. Japanese Zendô Head straight for a

seat at the counter, order the combinado do chef (R$80) and prepare to be immersed in the Brazilian-Japanese creations that sushi purists would call sacrilege; others, a damn good contemporary twist. The sashimi here is fabulously fresh. We tried haro hot – shimeji mushrooms wrapped inside crunchy spring-roll batter, followed by the pantanal – salmon uramaki topped with deep fried kale. Be prepared to arrive with an open mind, and leave with a belly swelling to sumo-sized proportions. Rua Desembargador do Vale 438, Perdizes (3554 3433/zendosushi. com.br). Open 7-11pm Tue; noon-3pm; 7-11pm Wed, Thu; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Friday; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; 1-4pm Sun. Main courses set for one from R$44.90; lunch R$29.

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Winter warmer Yosenabe

INTERNATIONAL Arturito Intimate

dark wood panelling, austere lighting, and stylish seating with cushions and throw pillows distinguish this luxurious member of the São Paulo dining scene. It’s positively bursting at the weekend, since word got around about the restaurant and its trendy Argentinian chef and co-proprietor, Paola Carosella, and it’s now on the must-do list of every well-to-do paulistano. The wonderfully varied and ever-changing menu includes some uncommon dishes for Brazil, such as leg of lamb, ceviche (raw fish marinated in citrus juices) and the Argentinian specialty of grilled sweetbreads. The menu also features outstanding classics: freshly made pasta, prime beef (try the exquisite ojo de bife) and pork as well as an extensive wine list. Rua Artur Azevedo 542, Pinheiros (3063 4951/arturito.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Thu, Fri; 12.304pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$103; lunch R$45$56. ITALIAN Buttina Dine alfresco under half

a dozen jabuticaba trees, or inside this gorgeous converted vintage house, where the tree boughs are allowed to wind freely through the airy space. Chef Filomena Chiarella has gained legions of followers for her authentic recipes, learned in her native Basilicata, in Italy’s balmy South. Chiarella’s signature dishes include artisanal gnocchi and the delicious jabuticaba ice-cream (R$8), served while the delicious purple fruits are in season, in September and October. Rua João Moura 976, Pinheiros (3083 5991/buttina.com. br). Open noon-2.30pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-2.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Fri; 1pm-12.30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$20.80-$49.80; lunch R$31.50.

Eclectic Gardênia Old(ish)-timers will have seen the metamorphosis in 2005 that transformed the no-frills-bar Café Gardênia into simply Gardênia. After a big refurbishment, under the new ownership of Carlos Moraes, Gardênia has emerged as the restaurant in São Paulo in which to eat mouth-wateringly good lamb, which is raised on their own farm. With over seven lamb options on the menu, choosing is the hard part. Try the rack of lamb with mint pesto or the tender paleta de cordeiro –shoulder of lamb – marinated in white wine, garlic and rosemary and served either individually or as the whole shoulder for sharing. A seat out the front affords a lush view of the towering trees clumped together on Praça dos Omaguás. Gardênia spread its wings in 2009, opening a second branch in Jardins. Praça dos Omaguás 110, Pinheiros (3815 9247/ gardeniaresto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 1-9pm Sun. Main courses R$37$49; couvert R$7. Other location Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 726, Jardim Paulistano (3088 3044). VEGETARIAN GOA Chef and owner

Augusto Pinto was one of the first chefs in São Paulo to use and promote organic ingredients, and continues to evangelise healthy, ecologically-aware

6747/martinfierro.com.br). Open noonmidnight daily. Main courses R$21$78; couvert R$4.10. ITALIAN Pasquale It’s not Don Pasquale,

Donizetti’s most famous opera, that this restaurant is named after but the proprietor who was born in the Puglia region of Italy. For aficionados of Italian cuisine – which means, arguably, most of us – this restaurant offering the right combination of antipasti, pasta and wines, should hit the spot. In its new incarnation in Vila Madalena (the restaurant moved in 2011), what the restaurant may have lost in cosy charm, it makes up for in added space. For antipasti, try the tender marinated eggplant, the rich and tiny boursin cheese balls, and some generous hunks of salami (cured on the premises); it all might just lead you to attempt a top-of-your-lungs Pavarotti number. Rua Girassol 66, Vila Madalena (3081 0333/pasqualecantina. com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$21.50-$41.

Henrique Peron/press image

Food & Drink

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

MIDDLE EASTERN Pita Kebab The

The upmarket Aizomê is among the top Japanese restaurants in town, and the chef-owner Shinya Koike’s ‘East meets West’ approach is best sampled with tasting menus like his new one, tailored especially for the winter. Though the sequence of dishes changes daily, the warming mains will include either a sukiyaki (Japanese hot pot), sobá noodles in a duck broth, or yosenabe (see photo) – a miso-based stew with a choice of chicken, tofu, seafood or vegetables. R$180 (7 courses). See listings. eating through his courses and events. The restaurant’s sumptuous decor, with red velvet banquettes and wrought-iron chandeliers, contrasts with the simple, healthy, lunch-only menu. Try the kibbeh with mint sauce or the delicious vegetarian cassoulet. The houmous and couscous also come highly recommended. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 1152, Pinheiros (3031 0680/goavegetariano. com.br). Open noon-3.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$22.50-$28; lunch R$19-$23. BARGAIN

JAPANESE Hideki Don’t let its rather modest exterior, or its location on a busy party street, put you off: inside Hideki, the focus is on the freshest of fresh fish, served in a convivial, family-friendly and decidedly non-trendy atmosphere. The sashimi and sushi are a cut above, albeit with prices to match, and the tempura is light, crispy perfection. The emphasis here is on quality rather than quantity, though the lunchtime buffet is a relatively economical way to sample Hideki’s delights. To drink go for saké, which is served in a masu – a square cup – with the chilled liquid spilling out over the sides. It’s all in the name of good luck, apparently. Rua dos Pinheiros 70, Pinheiros (3086 0685/hidekisushi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonSat; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sun. Prices sushi set for one from R$90. Other locations Rua dos Imarés 542, Moema

(5049 3224); Rua Treze de Maio 1050, Bela Vista (3283 1833). FRENCH L’Aperô Well away from the Vila Madalena hustle and bustle, L’Aperô is a great little spot for dinner under the stars. Sit outside at one of a scattering of tables, covered in red-and-white checkered tablecloths, and peruse the menu, which you’ll find unceremoniously glued to the back of a wine bottle. The food is nothing to write home about, but the laid-back charm and modest prices make this an ideal neighbourhood bolt-hole. Our tip? Avoid the gritty moules and go for one of the salads, served in large bowls with a satisfying ratio of lettuce to tasty bits, such as crispy sautéed potatoes or melted goat’s cheese on croutons. Rua Mourato Coelho 1343, Vila Madalena (3814 2445/lapero. com.br). Open 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$24-$36; couvert R$10. BARGAIN

BARBECUE Martín Fierro If meat’s

in order tonight, then this enduringly popular Argentinian restaurant may be just the ticket. There are a handful of Brazilian cuts on the menu; but aside from those, you can pretend you’re in Buenos Aires to excellent effect with the very good bife de chorizo (sirloin) and the asado de tira (beef thin ribs). The side salad is possibly a little too simple – just like in Buenos Aires, in fact – but some empanadas to start with are a good idea. Rua Aspicuelta 683, Vila Madalena (3814

owners of this local bar and eaterie may be Italian, but they make a mean kebab with their own blend of spices. Lamb and kafta kebabs are the stars of the show, served either wrapped up in pitta bread, or on their own with salad. For something lighter, go for the mini falafel balls or, for an Italian twist, grilled courgettes in raspberry vinegar. To drink, don’t miss the refreshing homemade lemonade with mint (suco de limão com hortelã) or the eclectic beer menu. Thursday and Friday nights get busy with a student crowd, packing out the leafy, glass-covered patio. Rua Francisco Leitão 282, Pinheiros (3774 1790/pitakebabbar.com.br). Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; noon-2am Fri; 1pm2am Sat; 1pm-1am Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$13-$20.90.

CONTEMPORARY Rothko Artist Diego Belda has turned his creative hand to cuisine at his restaurant Rothko, which opened in early 2011. Drawing inspiration from a number of cuisines, each dish is a beautiful composition of flavours and vibrant colours. Order a selection of small dishes – bocadilhos – or go for a less creative but equally tasty main course. The downsides? Slow service, and a fair few items missing from the menu. Teething troubles, we hope. Rua Wisard 88, Vila Madalena (3032 4295). Open 6pm-midnight Wed-Fri, noon-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$43.

GERMAN Schnapshaus The checkered tablecloths and Deutschland posters of this family-style tavern have been transporting diners to a land of schnitzel and beer since it first opened in 1977. Try the tender pork in a paprika sauce, which comes with a huge portion of mashed potatoes and rice, or the best dish on the menu: paprika schnitzel. Many of the main courses will easily feed two. Rua Diogo Moreira 119, Pinheiros (3031 9886/schnapshaus.com.br). Open noon4pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-11pm Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$18.30-$41.50; lunch R$18-$28. NORTH AFRICAN Tanger With exposed

brickwork, colourful tiling and a palette of deep, earthy reds and yellows, Tanger is more a treat for the eyes than the taste-

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blocks south when he opened Aizomê in 2007. The two-storey restaurant, in an PORTUGUESE Adega Santiago A cosy old house in Jardins (look for the large tavern with dishes inspired by Iberian ‘39’ on the wall as there’s no sign) serves cuisine, Adega (as it’s known to regulars) a mix of sushi, sashimi and hot Japanese combines good food, a great atmosphere dishes. Koike is best known for rolling out and a fine wine list. Seafood lovers should ‘East meets West’ fusion sushi, adapted go for the polvo à lagareira (chargrilled with Brazilian ingredients. The sushi octopus) – with a side of buttered may not match the reputation of chefs vegetables, which makes a simple like Jun Sakamoto, but the all-round but mouth-watering Japanese food experience is one duo. More expensive of the best in town. Alameda fish dishes, such as Fernão Cardim 39, bacalhoada na lenha Jardim Paulista (3251 (oven-baked salt cod 5157/aizome.com.br). with potato, onion, Open noon-2.30pm; ra peppers, olives and 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; hot, sugh a g in ip p eggs) at R$135, are 6.30-11pm Sat. Prices The rros wit ite u h c d BRAZILIAN Vila das Meninas Step designed to serve two. R$12-$48 for individual coate doce de le . f g o in p pot through the discreet entrance to find a Rua Sampaio Vidal small dishes; lunch R$38l) for dip scattering of tables set under a large tree 1072, Jardim Paulistano $100. (carame$18.50) (R hung with lanterns, in the back yard of a (3081 5211/adegasantiago. BRAZILIAN Brasil a Gosto beautifully converted house. An illustrated com.br). Metrô 4, Faria Ready for a taste of the Amazon? menu the size of a paperback reveals Lima. Open noon-3pm, 6-11pm Chef Ana Luiza Trajano floats the finest soulful dictums and the story behind Mon; noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tue-Thu; ingredients of the jungle river to your the restaurant, as well as a selection of noon-12.30am Fri, Sat; noon-10pm Sun. table. Start your adventure by ordering dishes that pay homage to the owners’ Main courses R$38-$135; couvert Other location Shopping the lovely strawberry and caju caipirinha, homeland – Minas Gerais. The confit de R$4.90. Cidade Jardim, 4th floor, Avenida artfully decorated with the head of the frango com jiló caramelizado is a good Magalhães de Castro 12000 (3758 4446/ caju fruit (the unfamiliar, inedible cover pick – tender chicken served with the adegasantiago.com.br). of the cashew nut). The mini acarajé famously bitter fruit jiló, transformed appetiser is a treat in which you assemble into delightfully thick, caramelised slices. JAPANESE Aizomê If you can judge a shrimp, avocado, pumpkin and the Finish up with a fork-fight over a round place by its clientele, then chef Shinya delicious hot sauce and onion vinaigrette of doces caseiros (homemade sweets) with Koike was clearly doing something into a brilliant, self-made recreation of queijo minas (Minas Gerais cheese). Rua right when he ran A1 – a small izakaya the classic Bahian sandwich. For a main Padre Carvalho 139, Pinheiros (3037 (Japanese bar with hot food) and longcourse, try the abadejo grelhado com 7773/viladasmeninas.com). Open noonrunning favourite with the Japanese crosta de baru (grilled haddock with a 3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, suits at the nearby Bank of Tokyo, on crust of Brazilian baru nut), or the grilled 7pm-12.30am Thu-Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main Timeout_Zucco_Meia-pagina_portugues.pdf 1 15/07/13 16:44 Avenida Paulista. Koike relocated a few pirarucu – the largest freshwater fish in courses R$42-$60; lunch R$38.

Jardins

GO FOR

the world. Finish off with a tasting of the plum or banana cachaça – the sugar-cane tipple here reaches the level of a fine cognac. Reservations are recommended. Rua Azevedo de Amaral 70, Jardim Paulista (3086 3565/brasilagosto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Thu; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$46-$90; lunch R$44; couvert R$8-$12.

Food & Drink

buds. This upscale Moroccan restaurant, recently relocated to an increasingly restaurant-packed part of Vila Madalena, serves an assortment of mezzes, tagines and couscous dishes. The Royal Couscous, a signature dish of succulent lamb, is particularly good, though the set lunch menu can be more miss than hit. The busiest nights are at the weekend and on Wednesdays, when there’s a live belly dance performance. Rua Harmonia 359, Vila Madalena (3037 7223/ restaurantetanger.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$21-$45; lunch R$19.50-$29.50; couvert R$7.50.

INTERNATIONAL Chez Lorena It’s no surprise at all to find Chez Lorena hitting the spot between chic and descolado (cool) with pitch-perfect precision: it’s owned by the same hip cabal of owners as Bar Secreto. We recommend the ceviche and the risotto with tomato, broccoli and grilled baby calamari from the Spanish– Italian influenced menu; a seat on the front terrace for the see-and-be-seen brigade; and table at the back, intimately lit by candles at night, for those discreet about dining. Alameda Lorena 1989, Jardim Paulista (3081 2966/chez.com. br/chezlorena). Open noon-1am TueFri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 12.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$36-$66; lunch R$21.90-$25.90. BRAZILIAN D.O.M. D.O.M. is the fiefdom of tattooed celebrity chef Alex Atala, who absorbs molecular gastronomy tendencies and gives them a very Brazilian twist. The food is balanced and harmonious, particularly in the tasting menus, and the vegetarian version is served with carefully selected juices and fruit essences to provide contrasts of colours and textures. If you’re prone

CMY

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Food & Drink

to passing out at the sight of large bills, try the lunchtime executive menu, which gives a beautifully presented spin on home-made Brazilian food, using crunchy, toasted manioc farofa with beans, rice and chicken or John Dory. It sounds simple, but Atala takes it to a different level, earning the restaurant the number six ranking in the San Pellegrino world’s 50 best restaurants award, in 2013. Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardim Paulista (3088 0761/domrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$107-$145; lunch R$59; couvert R$20.

Hot hot Chilli challenge

JAPANESE Sushiguen Sharp-dressed

BURGER Lanchonete da Cidade This is one of the best of São Paulo’s many ’50s-style diners: the originals, of course, are the city’s thousands of humble streetcorner lanchonetes. Here at the slightly more upmarket Lanchonete da Cidade, it’s all about the burgers, with the succulent Bom Bom most in demand – a 220g churrasco-style burger with homemade tomato sauce. For vegetarians, the delicious mushroom-and-grilled-vegetable burger is a treat. Paulistanos swear by the batatas rústicas – crispy fried discs of crunchy potato scattered with rosemary and cloves of sweet, juicy garlic. Alameda Tietê 110, Jardim Paulista (3086 3399/ lanchonetedacidade.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main courses R$14.50-$41. Other locations Rua Amauri 334, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Higienópolis, Avenida Higienópolis 674, Higienópolis; Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Magalães de Castro 12.000, Morumbi; Avenida Macuco 355, Moema. FRENCH Marcel The lone weak point of this excellent restaurant is its location inside a tasteless block of short-let flats. But get past that and you’ll be presented with a set of unforgettable dishes, superbly executed by chef Raphael Despirite. A starter of frogs’ legs in garlic cream is a case in point; as are the impeccable soufflés – whether they be of the smoky seafood variety, or a sweet dessert soufflé of cupuaçu – just some of the unusual dishes that make this fine restaurant such a memorable experience. Rua da Consolação 3555, Jardim Paulista (3064 3089/marcelrestaurante.com. br). Open noon-2.30pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$107; lunch R$42-$48; couvert R$7.80-$12.80.

Ligia GBrosch/press image

SPANISH Eñe The Brazilian capital

of gastronomy was still aching for a signature Spanish addition as recently as 2007, when the twin brothers Sergio and Javier Torres Martinez from Barcelona stepped onto the culinary scene with this small, high-quality, Catalan-influenced restaurant. All concrete and dark wood on the outside, inside the space is sleek lines and smooth surfaces. The restaurant’s preoccupation with beauty extends to the food – the menu’s selection of fish and vibrant vegetables with bold Spanish spices are all beautifully presented. Don’t miss the pecan pie – a great example of the robust flavours the twins are famed for. Rua Dr. Mário Ferraz 213, Jardim Europa (3816 4333/enerestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 1pm-4pm, 8pm1am Sat. Main courses R$48-$68; lunch R$47; couvert R$15.

the middle. Spot is an enduring Sampa favourite – so come prepared to wait, over a drink at the bar or outside on the terrace, for a table in the thick of the action, in amongst the chattering diners. On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot. com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação. Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71.

For fans of ultra-spicy food, the Chinese–Peruvian restaurant Chifa Wok presents the Bruce Lee challenge: eat the plate of stir-fried chicken with peanuts, vegetables and a mix of Chinese and Peruvian chillis without drinking anything for three minutes after you’ve finished, and the R$30 dish is yours for free. Offer only available in the evenings. See listings. ITALIAN Mercearia do Conde A tumble

down the rabbit hole might – just might – prepare you for Mercearia do Conde. The ceiling groans under a collection of bewinged angels and pink, wand-bearing fairies that gently rotate overhead, while the plates are gaily and wantonly mismatched. The food can be good, but is occasionally patchy and errs a little on the conventional side. The chicken pie has long been a favourite of ours; but last time, pluckier, we went for duck with rice ‘old Lisbon style’, which came with shredded duck, cooked pear pieces and a dusting of garam masala – good and homely, but not revving up the taste buds too much. Rua Joaquim Antunes 217, Jardim Paulistano (3081 7204/ merceariadoconde.com.br). Open noon4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noonmidnight Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pm1am Sat; 12.30-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$85; lunch R$45.

MEXICAN Obá There is a serious lack of decent Mexican food in São Paulo – no doubt because of the serious lack of Mexicans. Restaurateur Hugo Delgado solves both problems: he’s a living, breathing chilango from Mexico City and, though sometimes hampered by inaccessibility to certain ingredients, he does a fabulous job on the portion of Obá’s menu that’s dedicated to his homeland – the carnitas (braised pork tacos), refried beans, guacamole and margaritas. The kitchen also sends out an array of Thai, Italian and Brazilian dishes to the convivial tables in this colourfully converted Jardins home. Rua Melo

Alves 205, Jardim Paulista (3086 4774/ obarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-4.30pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$39.90$67; lunch R$21.90. ITALIAN Primo Basílico Well-heeled

families wait patiently for tables on Sunday evenings at this popular yet relaxed spot, taking the edge off their hunger with bread stuffed with oozing buffalo cream cheese and zingy calabresa. The restaurant is buzzing most other nights too, though getting a table doesn’t pose such a problem. Three tables outside offer an al fresco option, though most of the action is inside, where you can see the pizzas sliding in and out of a huge brick oven. The traditional pizza bases are ciabatta-esque – thick and doughy – or there’s a thin crust option too. Committed carnivores should go for an Obelix, whose wild-boar sausage will satisfy any self-respecting Gaul. Avenida Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1864, Jardim América (3082 8027/ primobasilico.com.br). Open 6pm12.30am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-12.30am Sun. Main courses R$48-$63.

INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down classic restaurants. It’s centrally located – a handy place for lunch if you’re on Avenida Paulista – and decorated brightly and stylishly, if simply, with all-round windows and a circular bar in

Asian businessmen, slick paulistanos and the odd tourist fill the rows of this singular sushi restaurant. A capsule of oriental perfection, Sushiguen is the perfect escape from the bustling thoroughfare of nearby Avenida Paulista. Serving up the finest fish for more than 35 years, sushi man Shimizu is clearly doing something right – and we can attest to it. Try the tirashi (R$40$77), a fish salad in which several types of fish – including salmon, tuna and sea urchins – are placed with geometric precision atop a bed of rice in a bowl. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 2367, Jardim Paulista (3289 5566). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11pm Mon-Sat. Prices two sushi pieces from R$10-$17.50; lunch menu R$24-R$40.

Jewish Z Deli This run-of-the-mill albeit charming deli, with just a handful of tables and a self-service counter full of delicious salads, is Jewish dining at its best. Gefilte fish can be had here not just on Passover, but all year round; or for another taste of Eastern-European cuisine, try the vareniks – breaded meats and fish. The roasted chicken (Z Deli frango) and the cheese gnocchi aren’t to be missed, either. If you have the time and the appetite opt for the all-you-caneat buffet (R$45, or R$39 for just salad; R$55 on Saturdays), rather than the lunch menu (three hot dishes for R$39). And while the prices may be steep, this is the closest you’ll get to Katz’s Deli outside of Manhattan. Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1350, Jardim Paulistano (3064 3058). Open noon-6pm Mon-Fri; noon4.30pm Sat. Buffet R$39-$55; set menu R$30-$39. ITALIAN Zucco A floor-to-ceiling glass

exterior gives a sneak preview of the sleek, modern interior of this Italian restaurant. Weather permitting, the windows slide right back to create an alfresco terrace backed by a vertical garden. The broad menu offers a modern take on traditional Italian cuisine: to start, tuck into the paper-thin focaccia, with rock salt and rosemary. Fresh pasta is a good choice for a main course – try the squid ink taglioni with shrimps and clams. If there’s a queue for a table, pull up a stool at the bar and sip a glass of bubbly from the comprehensive wine list, or a Zucco Martini, with strawberry, vanilla-flavoured vodka and a balsamic vinegar reduction. Rua Haddock Lobo 1416, Jardim Paulista (3897 0666/ zuccorestaurante.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-12.30am MonThu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$39-$89; lunch R$52; couvert R$12.90.

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ITALIAN A Tal da Pizza It started down

a dirt track – an out-of-town, family-run pizzeria with no cutlery, no waiters, and a cult following among SP’s elite. A Tal da Pizza’s city progeny is an altogether different setup, and its Louis XV-style chairs and velvet sofas are a far cry from country simplicity. The pizza is good, including adventurous combos like the Scaramouche, with aubergine, raisins, prunes, peppers, mozzarella and cashew nuts. On our Thursday night visit, we were among just a handful of diners. Perhaps paulistanos know where to get pizza that’s just as good, for less, elsewhere. Either way, roll up your sleeves – it’s faithful to the original, so you won’t find any cutlery here – and dig in. Rua Doutor Mario Ferraz 351, Itaim Bibi (3079 3599/ataldapizza.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 7pm-1am Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Large pizza R$75.

BARBECUE Barbacoa Priced on a

par with Fogo do Chão, the city’s other top rodízio (all-you-can-eat) meat-athon, Barbacoa isn’t cheap, but its range and quality of both cuts and creatures, including fish and wild boar, is outstanding. While many churrascarias have all the ambience of an airport lounge, the gentlemen’s club-esque atmosphere here, with an abundance of dark wood and leather armchairs, adds to the sense of self-indulgence, and the bar is a cosy spot for a pre-dinner caipirinha.

Expect a feast of seriously good flesh; menu (surprisingly good value, at elasticated waistbands recommended. R$140 for 6 courses), this is glorious Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 65, good Italian food. In the tasting menu, a Itaim Bibi (3168 5522/barbacoa.com. series of finely crafted dishes – classic br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Italian cooking adapted to Brazilian Mon-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pmingredients – arrive beautifully midnight Sat; noon-6pm, presented. We started with a 7pm-11pm Sun. Fixed Caprese salad and ended on price R$94.90. Other a trio of panna cotta, via a locations D&D Shopping, series of pasta, seafood and Avenida das Nações Unidas meat dishes. Floor-to-ceiling r a 12,555, Brooklin (3042 windows make for a bright, ifesto B n a M 9244); Morumbi Shopping, airy space during the day, sic See Mu Avenida Roque Petroni Jr. while in the evening, large 1089, Morumbi (5181 6898). lamps and naked lightbulbs lend an intimate glow. On the refreshingly simple à la carte menu, the rich creamy BRAZILIAN Beth Cozinha de Estar porcini risotto is a great choice. Rua Beth is in her fifties and is almost always Pedroso Alvarenga 1026, Itaim Bibi behind the self-service counter, helping (3078 5273/biondirestaurante.com.br). her diners decide on the best homecooked Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tueoption. Catering mostly to suits who Fri; 7.30pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main work in Itaim Bibi, this buffet joint offers courses R$46-$79. a selection of salads and dressings, PERUVIAN Chifa Wok Of all possible fish, chicken and beef creations, and fusion-food combinations, few feel as comforting sides such as spinach or corn right as the type practised in Lima’s in white sauce, kale, or grilled vegetables many ‘chifa’ restaurants, blending and bananas. Wednesdays and Saturdays Chinese and Peruvian cuisine with artful feature the traditional feijoada, and a light simplicity. The pleasant, low-key Chifa version with the pork and black beans Wok specialises, as its name suggests, served separately. If you have room for in unpretentious dishes filled with fastdessert, you won’t be disappointed by the cooked, wok-fried goodies. You can’t flan or the coconut mousse. Rua Pedroso go wrong with a classic arroz chaufa Alvarenga 1061, Itaim Bibi (3073 0354/ (R$30-$36) – fried rice with a choice of bethcozinha.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm meat or seafood. We went for the roast Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat. Prices fixedpork one to accompany a kam lu wantan price buffet R$48-$59. (R$36) – a colourful jumble of flavours, ITALIAN Biondi Whether you go for the featuring morsels of duck, chicken and simple lunch menu or the full tasting pork flash fried with veggies and slivers

IN THE AREA

of peach, topped with a tamarind sauce and a crown of light fried won tons. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 513, Itaim Bibi (4324 7868/chifawok.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 8-11pm Sat. Main courses R$20-$48; lunch R$30.

Food & Drink

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

Mediterranean Di Bistrot Only the

most unobservant of diners will fail to notice the eclectic, and at times kitsch, decor as they step through the door at this Itaim restaurant. Think leopard print upholstery, cup-and-saucer chandeliers and a profusion of art. The eccentric personality of the original chef, Cassio Machado, is imprinted quite literally on the walls – the decor and showcase of paulistano art was created in homage to Brazilian artist Di Cavalcanti. The main attraction though is the outstanding food created by Mariana Fonseca, the new chef and owner, who has taken inspiration from Portugal and Greece, where she worked for many years. Be transported straight to a Greek taverna with the outstanding polvo grelhado – grilled octopus with paprika. Rua Jacurici 27, Itaim Bibi (3079 9098/dibistrot.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$34-$58; lunch R$29.90; couvert R$12.

FRENCH/ITALIAN Kaá Avenida Juscelino

Kubitschek, with its eight lanes of traffic, might be the last place you’d expect to find one of the city’s most tranquil restaurants. But behind an anonymous white wall lies a veritable Garden of

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Open from Monday to Maonday from 12pm to 2am

The complete and best Italian restaurant

Trattoria, Buffet, Wine Cellar, Bar and Whisky Club

STEAKHOUSE North Vila Nova The original North Grill, built years ago in Shopping Frei Caneca, recently opened a glamorous branch in the increasingly gourmet Vila Nova Conceição – one of the city’s most expensive neighbourhoods. Despite the surrounding competition, North Grill holds its own thanks to a solid selection of premium beef, including Australian cuts and Wagyu – Japanese cattle prized for their tender meat and marbled fat. Leather seats, wood floors and an abudance of indoor foliage add up to a pleasant interior. And the prices aren’t as eye-watering as you might expect, with the set-lunch menu a particularly tempting deal. Rua Jacques Félix 365, Vila Nova Conceição (3044 4885/northvilanova.com.br). Open 11.30am-3.30pm, 7-11pm Tue-Fri; 11.30am-11.30pm Sat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Main courses R$34.50-$95; lunch R$49; couvert R$15. AMERICAN P.J. Clarke’s Longing for the Big Apple? You can track down a karaoke bar in Liberdade and butcher a few stanzas of ‘New York, New York’, or hit this São Paulo clone of the famous Manhattan establishment once frequented by Frank Sinatra. The NYC original created the ‘Cadillac’ burger, which was not only a favourite of the Chairman of the Board but also of Marilyn Monroe. PJ Clarke’s attempts to recreate (quite successfully) the postwar glory years sanctum of American authenticity, with tables draped in redchecked cloth – the old-style diner even had its chandeliers shipped over from New York. The ambience fits the home fries and the delicate onion rings perfectly. For dessert, the strawberry and raspberry cheesecake is exceptional, and short of flying 11 hours to Junior’s in Brooklyn, you won’t find anything else quite like it. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 568, Itaim Bibi (3078 2965/pjclarkes. com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; 9.30ammidnight Sun. Main courses R$26$47; lunch R$37. ARGENTINIAN Pobre Juan You could

Free transfers from the city’s main hotels

Rua Treze de Maio, 848 Bela Vista - São Paulo/SP Phone: 11 2842.9620 www.villatavola.com.br

put the expansion of this Buenos Airesinspired restaurant down to clever marketing, if it weren’t for the fact that the food here is seriously good. There are now four branches in São Paulo – the most charming being the one on the top of Shopping Cidade Jardim, with views out over the city – as well as in Campinas and Brasília. Don’t miss Pobre Juan’s eponymous steak – a juicy top layer from the strip loin. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 525, Vila Olímpia (3845 4965/pobrejuan.com.br). Open

Sunday lunch Gourmet market

tadeu brunelli/press image

Food & Drink

A space for Italian cuisine and culture

Eden. Narrow and tall, the dining space at Kaá is dominated by a spectacular 8m-high and 70m-long wall covered in more than 7,000 plants native to Brazil’s Atlantic forest. Architect Arthur Casas’s aim here was to transport the diner away from the urban chaos: once inside, there’s no visual connection with the city outside. To get the full experience of rainforest elegance, a table outside must be reserved in advance. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 279, Vila Olímpia (3045 0043/ kaarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$68; lunch R$56; couvert R$13.

We loved the first run of the Feirinha Gastronômica – a series of Sunday food fairs with chefs and amateur enthusiasts alike serving up dishes. The only downside was the tight squeeze in a charmless car park in Vila Madalena. The food fairs are coming back, only this time bigger (with 30 stalls on rotation each Sunday) and better located – in a space with a retractable cover in the leafy Praça Benedito Calixto,

best known for its Saturday afternoon flea market. Over the first few Sundays you’ll be able to try gnocchi (R$15) from the team behind Italian restaurants Per Paolo, macaroons (R$4 each) from D’Macarons and Mexican tostadas (see photo, R$10) from Obá (see listings). Sundays, from 4 August. Praça Benedito Calixto 85, Pinheiros (feirinhagastronomica.com. br). For more details, see j.mp/ TOSP_gastron.

noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$42.90-$84; couvert R13.90. Other locations Shopping Cidade Jardim (see Shopping listings); Rua Tupi 979, Higienópolis (3825 0917).

Ibirapuera & Moema

MIDDLE EASTERN Zaatar A bright,

no-frills Lebanese eatery, Zaatar doesn’t score too highly in terms of first impressions. The functional space lacks anything in the way of warmth or charm, but its location just a stone’s throw from the Kinoplex shopping complex make it a handy option for the Itaim office crowd. The menu raises the bar with a solid choice of traditional Lebanese snacks, dips, salads, kebabs and sandwiches (including the beirute – the made-in-Brazil-but-never-in-Beirut pitta bread sandwich), all presented on a compact, one-page menu. A good lunch choice is the ‘prato do dia’ (R$25) – a daily-changing midday meal – or a sandwich. For the latter, choose from two types of bread; saj, a flat bread cooked on the eponymous dome-shaped metal ovens just by the front door; or manoushe, a softer, round, baked flat bread. Rua Bandeira Paulista 485, Itaim Bibi (3071 2398/zaatarrestaurante.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm MonSat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$17-$29.50.

ITALIAN Bráz A typical meal at this awardwinning pizzeria should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas. There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com. br). Open 6.30pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 6.30pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-12.30am Sun. Medium pizza R$45-$55. Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090). MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively Tex-Mex bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families. The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheeseand-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday. Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/ sisenor.com.br). Open noon-3pm; 6pmmidnight Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pmmidnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42. Other locations Citywide.

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CHINESE Chi Fu Just a quick hop

from Liberdade Metrô lies the recently renovated Chi Fu. The clientele, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date). There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephone-directorysized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best. The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap. Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am-4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN

KOREAN Cho Sun Ok Korean-food

virgins can’t go wrong at this Liberdade local: just order the Korean barbecue.

nicole fialdini/press image

Critics’ choice Posh pizza

It comes with sweet beef and a huge helping of mushrooms and vegetables, cooked right there at the table (R$85), and is served with an array of side dishes including kimchi (fermented vegetables). Pure shots of Soju (R$24, 360ml bottle), Korea’s national tipple – a kind of smooth saké, distilled from cereals – are de rigueur. Thankfully for your brain cells, the evening session closes early; but Cho Sun Ok also does a weekday executive lunch (R$48) with a spreads of hot and cold dishes chosen by the chef. Avenida da Aclimação 502, Liberdade (3271 9621/3208 2116). Open noon-3pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$29$50; lunch R$48. JAPANESE Lamen Kazu Expect to find

the real deal at this Japanese noodle house. The star ingredient used to be imported from Japan until Lamen Kazu’s newer sibling, Espaço Kazu, opened up over the road along with space for the noodles to be made from scratch. Whether it’s a mid-week dinner or a weekend lunch, expect to join a long-ish queue made up of hungry punters of mostly Japanese extraction. Opting for a lessis-more approach, there’s little variation on the menu. First pick your broth (miso, shoyu or salt-based shio) then add optional – and genuinely spicy – chillies, followed by one of three toppings; a generous meat-free pile of carrots, onion and cabbage, or slices of roast pork, or the traditional topping with beansprouts, wakame (seaweed) and spring onions. The accompanying gyoza are fairly unexciting. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, why not head to the Liberdade street market for dessert? Rua Tomaz Gonzaga 51, Liberdade (3277 4286/lamenkazu. com.br). Open 11am-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6pm-9pm Sun. Main courses R$19-$39; accepts only visa credit and debit cards.

miss with classic Indian dishes – go for the lamb or chicken curries or one of the tandoori specials for best results. Rua Princesa Isabel 379, Brooklin (5092 4816/govindarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon4pm 7pm-midnight Sat.; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$32.90-$66.90; lunch R$33.90; couvert R$17.90.

Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé PIZZA Castelões This classic Italian restaurant, located in one of the city’s traditional Italian neighbourhoods, was founded in 1924, and its dusty decor and antique pictures give it an authentically nostalgic feel that many newer pizzerias try and fail to copy. The Castelões pizza, with handmade sausage and mozzarella, is recommended, as is the house margherita; but no matter which one you pick, rest assured that the dough will be light, the crust scorched and sensual, and the tomato sauce packed with basil. Rua Jairo Góis 126, Brás (3229 0542). Metrô 3, Brás. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight daily. Main courses R$39-$64; couvert R$9.

The South VEGETARIAN Moinho de Pedra Frustrated vegetarians will be in for a pleasant surprise at Tatiana Cardoso’s elegant restaurant. The word is out about her gourmet take on healthy veggie food, and the lunchtime queues form early. Cardoso combines creativity with seasonal ingredients. Head straight to the counter

where you can choose from one of two daily specials – served with either salad or soup for R$35 or R$45 on Saturdays – or another main course option from the blackboard. White bean stews, grilled courgette tart, and mandioquinha (sweet parsnips) gnocchi with a fresh tomato sauce are just a few of the highlights. Rua Francisco de Morais 227, Santo Amaro (5181 0581/moinhodepedrarestaurante. com.br). Open 8.30-11am, noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 9-11am, noon-4pm Sat. Prices set menu R$35-$45.

Food & Drink

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana

The North BRAZILIAN O Compadre The Lar

Center shopping mall, which mostly sells furniture, may seem an odd spot to find a restaurant, but O Compadre is popular, nonetheless. During the weekend the vast space packs out with families, and it serves as a handy lunch choice for visitors to the immense, glassy Expo Center Norte convention centre nearby. In contrast, the restaurant’s rustic Brazilian farm theme comes complete with wooden rafters, cow hide-covered bar stools, wagon wheels and a cart by the entrance. Fill up your plate at the buffet – there are sixty dishes, including beans, pastas, moquecas (fish stew) and salads. For grilled meats, order your favourite cut – top sirloin cap (picanha) is a good bet – from the chef manning the charcoal grill at the centre of the buffet. Avenida Otto Baumgart 500, Vila Guilherme (2252 3131/compadre.com. br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm MonFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-5.30pm. Price buffet R$59.90-$66.90.

STEAKHOUSE Templo da Carne

Bráz Pizza is a serious weekend fixture in São Paulo; so much so that the city’s upscale pizzerias know no bounds when it comes to gourmet toppings. At Bráz, the Caprese (R$73.50) is the best-seller, with buffalo mozzarella, basil, caqui tomatoes, and black olive pesto. Primo Basílico A popular spot for well-heeled families, Primo Basílico pizzas can be split three ways if you want to try different toppings. The Romana (R$69.90) teams Italian alici (sardine-like fillets) with mozzarella while the Brigitte (R$35.90) comes with brie, honey and fresh asparagus. A Tal da Pizza The baby grand and velvet sofas here are the first clues that this isn’t a Hawaiian-with-stuffedcheese-crust kind of pizza place. For a no-expense-spared pizza, go for the Au Champagne (R$80 for 12 slices) with white truffles, mascarpone cheese, poppy seeds and truffle oil.

Marcos Bassi If Brazil still had a monarchy, the late Marcos Bassi just might have been granted a knighthood for making butchery a noble craft. Bassi’s near-encyclopaedic knowledge made him synonymous with top quality meat in São Paulo – he ran courses on the subject, and sold cuts of beef and other Bassi-branded gourmet products in top supermarkets across town. The restaurant that carries his name serves the signature dishes fraldinha (flank steak), as well as bom-bom (a cut taken from the heart of a rump steak). Rua Treze de Maio 668, Bela Vista (3805 4284/marcosbassi.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$58-$78; couvert R$18.18.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini INDIAN Govinda It’s Krishna by way of

Lisboa at this classic dining spot, situated snugly in the middle of a residential area. The 30-year-old Govinda represents an interesting mixture of Luso-Brazilian architecture and Indian decor. The ceiling is supported by open wooden beams (in a former 19th-century life, the house was a grease-processing factory), while sumptuous sub-continent furniture occupies the various rooms. The couvert is a great start for the meal; eight different sauces with the house bread. You can’t

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Bars & Cafes From Belgium to Brazil

Daily bread Croissants, loaves, cookies, tarts and other sweet treats on display at Le Pain Quotidien in Vila Madalena The omelette with mushrooms and cheese (R$18), as pale and colourless as any omelette I’ve ever seen, was in a similar, under-

flavoured predicament. There were a few tasty slivers of mushroom in there, but so little cheese it was barely discernible, and it came

catherine balston

There’s no lack of choice when it comes to cosy cafés in Vila Madalena. And if you’re willing to spend a bit extra on a cup of decent coffee and a Wi-Fi hookup, the choice has become all the greater of late, with a raft of gourmet bakerycum-cafés opening in the last year or so. Passing through the Vila recently, in the mood for a posh coffee and with an hour to kill, we stopped in at one such place – Le Pain Quotidien – an upmarket Belgian chain that has gone from zero to four SP branches in less than a year. Free Wi-Fi in a bright, airy space? Check. Neutral jazz on the stereo? Check. Large communal table full of cappuccinos and PowerBooks, and creative types fiddling on Facebook and pretending it’s work? Those, too. Plus, in true SP style, valet parking at the door. Heading inside past stacks of pastries and beautiful, crusty loaves of bread, a glance at the price of the jars of nut and chocolate spreads on the shelves was a little sobering – R$39.90 – with jams from R$22.90. But we were in luck: verging on lunchtime, it was nevertheless still officially breakfast at Le Pain (until noon, or 3pm at weekends), and each table was laid with a selection of the aforementioned spreads to go with breakfast choices such as toast with ham and Emmental cheese (R$10.90), and a basket of breads, croissant or pain au chocolat, with orange juice and a hot drink (R$22). We ordered a basket of assorted slices of bread (R$13.90 for two), and dipped in to try the spreads. Rhubarb jam: very sugary, but also nicely rich and tart. Hazelnut spread: sumptuously nutty and delicious. White chocolate spread: horribly over-sweet, with little of the warmth and unctuousness of white chocolate. The list of ingredients on the jar, in order of quantity, was enough to explain that one: ‘Sugar, vegetable oil, skimmed milk powder, whey powder, white chocolate (7%)’.

press image

The organic breads and gourmet coffee at Le Pain Quotidien may just be worth the high price tag, says Claire Rigby

New boiler Organic boiled egg and a mix of breads, on the breakfast menu

garnished with a salad with only the vaguest suggestion of a dressing. Looking on the bright side, though, the service was thoughtful and attentive, and the space just lovely, with an immense mirror soaring up the wall opposite the mezzanine space overhead. The cappuccino (R$6.50) was just as it should be – free of the chocolate sludge you sometimes find at the bottom of cappuccinos here in Brazil, and served in a très français handleless bowl. The bread, the flagship product, and on sale by the loaf or half loaf, is simply delicious – don’t miss the raisin and nut flute; and the lunch we saw beginning to be served up around us looked amazing. We’ll be back to try it again, PowerBooks and all. Rua Wisard 138, Vila Madalena (3031 6977/lepainquotidien.com.br). Open 7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4,90; sandwiches R$10.90-R$31. Other locations Shopping Vila Olimpia, Rua das Olimpiadas 360 (3047 6541); Rua Pais de Araujo 178, Itaim Bibi (3078 0383); Shopping Cidade Jardim, Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12,000 (3758 3597).

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THE SAILOR revista TIMEOUT -ABRIL2013- 83 x 240.pdf 1 02/04/2013 17:02:28

How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. We visits bars anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks. For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Amigo Leal Germans originally popularised beer in Brazil, and this wood-panelled bar has a credible Rhine River feel. The name means ‘loyal friend’, and the businessmen who’ve been coming to relax here after a hard day’s work in the city centre for decades would no doubt agree. Quality draught beer, pastéis and German dishes like Eisbein (pigs’ knees) and Kassler (pork chops) are all on the cards. Rua Amaral Gurgel 165, República (3223 6873/amigoleal. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 4pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat; 5pmmidnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.40; caipirinha R$11. Rose Velt Taking its name from Praça Roosevelt – the recently remodelled square opposite – Rose Velt has become a hangout for students, actors and creative types. Not surprisingly, given its location next to the intimate Espaço Parlapatões theatre. Inside, dim lights and other interesting decor details include a street surface recreated along one wall, complete with chunks of pavement and manhole covers, lending a trash-chic edge. Go on Wednesday nights for live music or any night to sample one of more than 120 types of cachaça, served straight up or in a caipirinha – we love the perfectly spiced chilli one. Praça Franklin Delano Roosevelt 124b, Consolação (3129 5498/rosevelt.com. br). Open 7pm-12.30am Tue; 6.30pm12.30am Wed, Thu; 7pm-2.30am Fri; 8pm-2.30am Sat; 7-11.30pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$13. Terraço Itália You could almost be in a London gentlemen’s club at the bar at the top of landmark Edificio Itália, if it weren’t for the floor-to-ceiling windows providing a 360-degree view of the city. Here on the 41st floor, you are above the

Food & Drink

Bar listings city’s other skyscrapers bar none, and even above the helicopters below. The unobstructed view comes at a cost: R$30 added to your bill, but it’s worth it. Settle into one of the brown leather chairs, and enjoy the classic vibe over a caipirinha with saké and basil while you gaze in wonder at the city below. The bar scores high on warm service, too. 41st floor, Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (2189 2929/terracoitalia.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-1am Mon-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$22; cover R$30.

Consolação & Higienópolis Papillon de Nuit Soft lighting glows from the chandeliers, casting a lustrous sheen on the scarlet wallpaper and transporting the clientele to what could be a sultry nightspot in the bohemian Parisian neighbourhood of Pigalle. This is the intimate setting of charming Papillon de Nuit, conveniently located in the buzz of Consolação, but just far C enough away from Rua Augusta to avoid the chaos. The menu may be simple, M but the nibbles are tasty, making it the perfect spot for a drink and catch up Y with friends, or a post-cinema pitstop. Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 255, CM Consolação (3151 6221). Metrô 4, MY Paulista. Open 8pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$6.50; CY caipirinha R$14. CMY

Suíte Savalas It’s a curious facet of modern life that anything from the K ’70s is cool. Especially if it was on TV. Cashing in on that trend, the name of Greek-American actor Aristotelis ‘Telly’ Savalas, best known for starring in the ’70s crime drama Kojak, is the moniker of choice of this bar, while inside, photos of cult TV shows and films adorn the walls. But cinematic references aside, what Suíte Savalas is really all about is being a New York-style, no-nonsense bar – eminently welcome in a city with such a gaping void between pavement boteco and upwardly mobile, designer lounge poncery. The low red lights and clean-without-beingpristine interior fill up with a young, agreeably mixed bunch of customers. We like. Rua Mato Grosso 398, Consolação (3259 4355). Open 9pm-3am WedSat. Prices small bottle beer R$6.50; caipirinha R$15; cover R$15. Volt Sunglasses are in order at this fashionable joint: after the city banned ‘visual pollution’ in the form of outdoor ads and signs, proprietor Facundo Guerra bought neon lights from local brothels and placed them in the bar, hence the name. The variation on the margarita here is delicious: a reduction of ginger and passion fruit juice replaces lemon juice. Rua Haddock Lobo 40, Consolação (2936 4041/barvolt.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 9pm-2am Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; minimum spend R$30$40.

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Food & Drink

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Lebowski This cosy Barra Funda bar crams in as many references to the 1998 Coen brothers movie, The Big Lebowski, as possible, from bowling-pin lights to an alley-styled bar counter, and most important of all, a menu dedicated to the white russian. Those who aren’t partial to The Dude’s milky-coffee cocktail of choice can pick from a solid selection of other vodka-based drinks, and even some vodka-based twists on other classics, such as the (rumless) vodka mojito. Take ten steps into this bar and you’ll have already scoped out the entire space. But while it may be small, there’s still room for a tiny, darkened dancefloor, where DJs spin a loud post-hipster soundtrack from the back of the house. Rua Barra Funda 1070, Barra Funda (lebowskisp.com.br). Open 11pm-5am Fri-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7,50; caipiroska R$16. No credit cards. Pie in the Sky Pie-man turned restaurateur Ryk Preen opened this restaurant-cum-bar in 2009, incorporating his former pie shop in to the package. Preen serves up what is arguably the best fish’n’chips in São Paulo (R$40, weekends only), but what’s also a delight is the variety of lamb on the menu, with options including lamb shanks and mutton burger. Other classic Brisith dishes include beef Wellington and bangers and mash. The only downside? No British beer. Rua Ministro Gastão Mesquita 234,

Perdizes (2361 3033/thebristoltavern. com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Wed; noon12.30am Fri, Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$16.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Bar do Biu You could easily miss this low-key boteco, unless it’s a Saturday afternoon, when crowds spill out the door. Quench your thirst here after a trip to the Benedito Calixto market, or a nose around Choque Cultural, just a few steps away. Be prepared to wait for a table outside, or head inside to grab a table in a space adorned with football team strips. Don’t miss the famed baião de dois (from R$28) – a north-eastern buttery rice dish studded with jerky. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 776, Pinheiros (3081 6739/ bardobiu.com.br). Open 11am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$10. Cervejaria Nacional No beer in São Paulo travels a shorter distance from barrel to glass than at this microbrewery-cum-bar. Sit at the counter on the first floor overlooking the vast fermentation tanks below, or head up to the top-floor dining area for a cosier spot. If you like beer, go the whole hog with the degustação (R$19.90) – a 150ml sampler of all five of the home brews – a weiss beer, a lager, an India pale ale (IPA), a brown ale and a stout. Friendly service and good food make

this an excellent choice for a group night out: go for the live jazz on Tuesday nights and blues on Thursdays. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros (3628 5000/cervejarianacional.com.br). Open 5pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 5pm-1.30am Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$7.90; caipirinha R$14; cover R$12.

Jardins Baretto Low-lit and elegant, with comfy leather chairs and shiny wooden tables, Baretto is as chic as the hotel in which it’s housed. Everything about it, from the spot-on service to the well-curated roster of musicians who keep the MPB, jazz and bossa nova flowing, screams Fasano – the hotel and the family who, with half a century of practice, have become arguably the finest hoteliers in Brazil. Order a whiskey or a martini and soak up the atmosphere. Rua Vittório Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista (3896 4000/ fasano.com.br). Open 7pm3am Mon-Fri; 8pm-3am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$21; caipirinha R$26; cover R$37.

Donostia Named after the Basque seaside town reputed to have the most bars per square kilometre, this pintxo (Basque-style tapas) bar is as much about eating as it is drinking. Legs of imported jamón Ibérico (R$125 per serving) and jamón serrano (R$56 per serving) as well as artfully presented plates of pintxos – tasting Squat The squatters juicy garlic prawns, Cheese chef Bruno ’s a ti in this two-storey thick wedges of tortilla, Donos l runs regular hangout tend to be stuffed roasted peppers Cabra se nights. e e ch trendy twentysomethings and the like – top the ting See Ea who set up camp for L-shaped wooden bar. ut O parties and pre-club warm-up Pull up a stool and drinks. The place gets packed graze your way, one out from Thursdays to Saturdays by delicious one, through the varied when DJs – spinning anything from rock options on the menu, or just help yourself to Latino tunes – liven up the crowd. Flirt to whatever catches your eye on the bar. your socks off downstairs or bag a table With six different red wines by the glass, upstairs in the mezzanine where, with the and cava at R$9 per glass, the evening’s volume turned down a notch, conversation only challenge is what to choose first. is more audible. Alameda Itu 1548, Jardim Rua Simão Álvares 484, Vila Madalena Paulista (3081 4317/barsquat.com.br). (3034 0996/donostia.com.br). Open Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small 7pm-midnight Tue-Wed; 7pm-1am Thubottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$16; minimum Fri; 1pm-1am Sat. Prices small bottle spend R$25-$60. beer R$12.

GO FOR

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Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled by the huddles of people outside, relaxing on the long benches with a beer or standing around chatting. Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; and happily – because the wait is well worth it. Kick off with one of the no-fuss house cocktails to get things going – the Vesper martini, with a hint of lemon, is a good call, whether piccolo (R$18) or regular (R$23). Once inside and settled at one of the rustic wooden tables, just let the efficient, friendly waiters keep the cold chope coming, and order a plate or two of the delicious, made-for-sharing tapas. Rua Jesuíno Arruda 520, Itaim Bibi (3078 2858/bottagallo.com.br). Open 6.30pm-midnight Mon; 6.30pm-1am TueThu; 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; noon-2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$16.50. Seo Gomes The Fifties-inspired decor and warm, inviting glow makes walking past Seo Gomes a tricky proposition. Sparkling tiles line the walls and floor, set

Mariana Buck/press image

Critics’ choice Winter brews

Cervejaria Nacional Two limited-edition winter beers are currently on tap at this microbrewery-cum-bar; Saravá Imperial Stout and Pé de Bode, a strong, malty German-style lager. Try them before the barrels are drunk dry (R$17 per pint). Melograno This gourmet beer bar has a nerdy attention to detail. For cold evenings, they recommend Fuller’s London Porter (R$27 for 500 ml) or Colorado Quattro (R$59.90 for 500 ml) – a seasonal dark beer celebrating the four year anniversary of the São Paulo craft brewer. Frangó A mecca for beer lovers, this friendly bar in the Zona Norte has a beer menu of biblical proportions. Keep it cosy with the Dark Side smooth stout from British brewer Bath Ales (R$8.50 for 500 ml).

off by a decidedly retro shade of green paint. And with smart waiters in flat caps buzzing around with trays of chopes, it wouldn’t seem out of place if Mad Men’s Don Draper were to walk in, light up a ciggie and order himself a whisky. A predominantly male (and often loud) crowd can drown out the live bossa nova; but the evening buffet is a definite plus for hungry drinkers. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 1214, Vila Olímpia (3846 3625/seogomes.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm-1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15; cover R$7.

Food & Drink

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

Ibirapuera & Moema Bar Ao Vivo This charming little nightspot is somewhere between dark jazz bar and cheerful little pub, and as its name – which roughly translates as Live Music Bar – suggests, it’s a good place to catch musicians doing their thing. And those can include respected Brazilian performers like bossa nova veterans Zimba Trio. For drinks, try the chef’s martini, made with premium vodka, Cointreau and Blue Curaçao. Rua Inhambu 229, Moema (5052 0072/aovivomusic.com.br). Open 7pm-2am Mon-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$10-$40.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss. There’s limited space inside, so expect to wait for a seat, or settle for standing-room on the pavement outside, next door to the extraordinary Sabesp water-tank building. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts. Hopefully not though. Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/ velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm-12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

The North Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city in northern suburb Freguesia do Ó is a São Paulo mecca for chicken and beer. Go early on a sunny afternoon and bag a table outside on the square overlooking the church. Kick things off with the infamous chicken and catupiry coxinha. Beer lovers should try one of the beer-tasting menus, which meander through Brazilian, British and even rare Trappist beers. Each one is served at the right temperature and in the correct shape of glass. Consider lining your stomach first with a frango completo – a spit-roast chicken served with polenta, farofa and salad. Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (3932 4818/frangobar.com.br) Open 11ammidnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.60; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

The hot list – cafés How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice-cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches. We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers. NEW

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro CAFÉ Café Floresta Slotted in on the ground floor of Oscar Niemeyer’s immense, stunning Copan building, this standing-room-only café is arguably the

best old-school spot for coffee downtown. It’s tiny, and simple, and more like a holein-the-wall coffee stand than a cosy café. But step up to the counter and order a coffee and you’ll feel just like a local, lined up alongside the Copan residents and the coffee lovers stopping in for a well-pulled shot. Regulars opt for the espresso, which goes well with a slice of homemade cake. Avenida Ipiranga 200, República (3259 8416/cafefloresta.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 8am-10pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.

Consolação & Higienópolis BAKERY Benjamin Abrahão The Jardins branch of this citywide bakery is the most modern and trendy; but this Higienópolis version, older and considerably more traditional, is still sought out for its sweets and croissants, especially the ham croissant, a spot-on snack. Rua Maranhão 220, Higienópolis (3258 1855/benjaminabrahao.com.br). Open 6am-8.30pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.70; sandwiches R$7.90-$10.20. Other locations Citywide.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

makes an excellent, refreshing choice. Rua Tabapuã 961, Itaim Bibi (3071 2535/ cafesophie.com.br). Open 11am-9pm MonSat. Prices cafezinho R$4.30; sandwiches R$14.30-$16.90.

CAFÉ Empório São João Close your eyes for a moment and you could be in Greece or Italy: rough terracotta walls, cool tiled floors and plenty of greenery make this a great place for a coffee, lunch or a Ibirapuera & Moema light supper. Head for a table in the bright, BAKERY Blés D’Or Temptation awaits leafy garden at the back. The lunchtime here in the form of bread fresh salad buffet is great value at from the bakery, or sweet R$14.40. Rua dos Pinheiros delights from the pâtisserie, 456, Pinheiros (3063 0114/ such as eclairs, mille feuilles emporiosaojoao.com.br). and tarte tatin. Stop in Open 9am-midnight Tuefor a coffee or go for the Sat; 9am-7pm Sun. Prices weekend brunch buffet, cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches Logo a ri le a G with scrambled eggs, crêpes R$2-$7.20. See Art and cakes. Rua Tuim 653, Moema (5532 0183/blesdor.com. br) Open 7.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; Jardins 8.30am-10.30pm Sat; 8.30am-6pm Sun. CAFÉ Cristallo Cristallo’s mosaic-like Prices cafezinho R$3.20; sandwiches Mona Lisa façade is arguably the most R$19-$28. attractive storefront on Rua Oscar Freire. The chocolate-and-pastries shop opened in 1953; and since then, Cristallo has Liberdade, Bela Vista been serving the best panettone and & Vila Mariana paninis in town. Grab a seat outside for café Lady Fina This homely spot, with an espresso and some people-watching, airs of a West Berlin café, is the result of and don’t leave without trying a two years of planning by the owner, exchocolate-covered bomba (R$5.20). Rua model Laura Wie. She dug out old family Oscar Freire 914, Jardim Paulista (3082 recipe books to put together a menu, whose 1783/cristalloonline.com.br). Metrô highlights are the German-style desserts 2, Consolação. Open 9.30am -10pm and pastries – original recipes from Wie’s Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat-Sun. Prices grandmothers – like the Frau Sampio, cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$10.50an orange flan (R$9.50). The vibrant reds $26. Other locations Citywide. and floral prints provide bonus interior CAFÉ Tea Connection Argentina design inspiration. Rua Loefgreen 2481, might not be revered the world over for Vila Mariana (2359 2080). Open 11amits love of tea, but this Argentinian chain 7pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; is nevertheless a gem. Striking the right sandwiches R$16.30-$19.80. balance between bland, coffee house chain and cosy café, Tea Connection has just the right amount of choice on the Santo Amaro & menu, with plenty of options for nonCampo Belo tea-drinkers too. Traditionalists will love café Café des Fleurs What Café des the Earl Grey, though the Green Apple Fleurs lacks in space it makes up for in – green tea with apple pieces, makes an cosy ambience, with a cute Provençal unusual alternative. Alameda Lorena décor. The espresso (R$3.90), made 1271, Jardim Paulista (3063 4018/ with Orfeu beans, as well as Nespresso teaconnection.com.br). Open 8am-11pm options, go well with the homemade Mon; 8am-midnight Tue-Thu; 8am-1am croque monsieur (R$23.90), followed by a Fri; 9am-1m sat; 9am-11pm Sun. Prices mil-folhas – custard cream (R$13.50). Rua cafezinho R$4; tea R$7.50; sandwiches Gabriele D’annunzio 1291, Campo Belo R$25-$33. (5093 2003). Open 11.30am-10pm TueFri; 9am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.90; sandwiches R$8.90-$19.90 Itaim Bibi

IN THE AREA

& Vila Olímpia

CAFÉ Café Sophie One of the most and

elegant romantic coffee shops in town, this Itaim spot has a decadent boudoir feel, with red velvet curtains, crystal chandeliers and faux vintage decor. Think Audrey Hepburn and George Peppard rather than Harry and Sally as you sup the sensual Sophie Apaixonada – a tall glass of coffee mixed with chocolate, red fruit jelly, a touch of freshly grated nutmeg and a small jug of whiskey on the side. The roast beef wrap is a lovely lunchtime treat, and on sunny days, the iced coffee

café Casa Pilão Pilão is one of Brazil’s household coffee brands, and this eponymous café is all about the brand experience. The bright red space has plenty of large tables, making it good for group get-togethers. The coffee is prepared in a vacuum coffeemaker called the globinho, comprised of two glass cylinders and a boiling plate, providing a bonus chemistry spectacle. Avenida Roque Petroni Júnior 1089, Santo Amaro (5181 7338/pilao.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat. Prices cafezinho R$3.60; pão de queijo (cheese bread) R$2.80.

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Shopping & Style

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Markets, malls and beauty

Front row seats Fornasettiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watchful Lux Gstaad chairs complete a room setting at Poeira

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Shopping & Style An eye for design

Face time The Lux Gstaad chairs from Italy are part of Poeira’s curated line-up of imported designer objects

Wired Contemporary lamps

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Shelf life Ceramics and crockery

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Rua Doutor Melo Alves 276, Jardim Paulista (2305 7616/poeiraonline. com). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Sat.

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yielding to the touch (R$800- $1,990). If money is no object, go the whole hog and have your entire house designed and filled by Penaguião. Or settle for just one piece from the store, be it a statement sofa or something more portable like designer, coloured toilet paper, imported all the way from Portugal (R$10 per roll).

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Sharing the same stretch of street as upscale boutiques, residential high-rises and a stalwart bakery Dengosa (see Café listings), Poeira, is an eye-catching newcomer to Jardins, its pink neon sign glowing against a façade of dark grey walls. Blending interiors store and design consultancy, it’s the design dream of Portuguese interior designer Mónica Penaguião, and a far cry from her first store which she opened aged just fifteen, in Lisbon, back in 1981. ‘It was in a place that was lent to me by my uncle,’ says Penaguião. ‘I sold everything from buttons to tables and sofas. The only thing that mattered to me was that I liked it.’ Fast forward thirty-two years and Penaguião pours the same passion today into what has become an international brand; Poeira opened in Rio de Janeiro in 2010, and Maputo in Mozambique, and São Paulo, last year. Exposed, white-brick walls, sliced through by green-wallpapered columns, are the bright, airy canvas for the quirky collection on display in the São Paulo store. Penaguião’s own trademark pieces – distressed white timber tables and kitchen units – can be found alongside sofas, wallpaper, lamps and cushions, designed by international and Brazilian designers. High-end, imported pieces mean high prices. We’re talking up to R$2,300 per metre for Missoni fabrics, for example. Brazilian-designed pieces go for less, though there’s no such thing as a bargain when it comes to designer interiors. We love the eccentric chairs made from skateboards from Rio designers Studio Zanini – the limited edition pieces come in at R$5,480. And the cheeky Lux Gstaad chairs, by Italian design house Fornasetti, with watchful eyes peering out from beneath bobble-topped balaclavas. Though at R$27,000 each, you’ll want to make sure your guests sit sensibly on them. Look out for the work of another imaginative Italian designer, Gaetano Pesce – his resin vases look like glass until you squeeze them,

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A Jardins newcomer, Poeira does end-to-end interior design, reports Anna Fitzpatrick

Dusting off Poeira in São Paulo is the fourth branch of the originally Portuguese interiors shop to open up

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Malls & markets

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Center 3 Thanks to its location on the iconic Avenida Paulista, this mall draws legions of visitors to its four floors for a quick fix of lunchtime shopping or to take advantage of its many services – think tailors, shoe repairers, watch repairers, key cutters, hairdressers, banks and more. The mall has reinvented itself by bringing back some of the glamour its cinemas had back in the 1970s; the spacious but antiquated Cine Bristol is now the modern Multiplex Bristol, with seven screens. There’s also a food court with more than thirty eating options, including the sweets and cakes to accompany a good cup of coffee at Cristallo. Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3285 2458/shoppingcenter3. com.br). Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat; 10am-10pm Sun and holidays. Eldorado This mall’s previous incarnation was as a branch of a 1980s department store, and those powershoulder-pad days still haunt the place, at least in terms of the interior design. Eldorado’s two basement levels cater to every need, from dog grooming to cellphone repairs; or for a bit of light, chilly relief from consumption, conspicuous or otherwise, one of the only permanent ice-skating rinks in town is located in the second basement (R$35 for 30 minutes). Avenida Rebouças 3970, Jardim Paulistano (2197 7800/ shoppingeldorado.com.br). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary. Frei Caneca Located close to Avenida Paulista, this mall is at the heart of São Paulo and is famous not only for marketing culture, but also for generating it – amongst its numerous shops, nine cinemas and two theatres, it also hosts events and conferences, and has a professional drama school named after Wolf Maya, one of Brazil’s most prestigious soap opera directors. Its cinema is known for being eclectic, with national and international movies on the menu, whether commercial or cult. The food court tends to get a bit crowded at lunchtime, so you might find yourself sharing a table. Rua Frei Caneca 569, Consolação (3472 2000/ freicanecashopping.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary. Galeria Ouro Fino São Paulo’s wealthier alternative crowd heads to this gallery. There are tattoo studios, lingerie shops and hairdressers; and above all, there are small-scale designer shops selling creative or unusual outfits like US Army-inspired fatigues at the appropriately named US Army. Rua Augusta 2690, Jardim Paulista (3082

Getting a leg up Andarilhas

The artsy all-rounder Camila Nuñez – a self-described stylist, fashion producer, actress and designer – has just launched a collection of hand-painted tights, ‘Andarilhas’. Nuñez has always been a fan of customising her own tights, but is only now selling her creations. Each pair is unique, with styles ranging from Jackson Pollock-esque besplattered monochromatics to vibrant tie-dye stripes. R$55 each. Available by emailing nunez.camila@gmail.com or calling 98415 1194. 7860/galeriaourofino.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat. Galeria do Rock A haven for rockers and emos, affectionately known as ‘emoland’ by city satirists, the Galeria do Rock is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to the various facets of the music scene. CDs, vinyl, T-shirts, accessories, flags and posters – you name it, it’s here and it’s ready to rock. The bottom floor is dedicated solely to hip hop and ‘black music’, as Brazilians term it. The prices are lower than at equivalent speciality shops in other areas around the city; and on Saturdays, a battalion of teenage rockers invades. Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (3337 6277). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Ibirapuera One of the biggest shopping centres in town, Ibirapuera has more than 400 stores plus a gourmet food area. Charming small shops can also be found outside the mall, on avenidas BemTe-Vi and Gaivota, and ruas Pavão and Normandia. Avenida Ibirapuera 3103, Moema (5095 2300/ibirapuera.com. br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am10pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Iguatemi This, the city’s oldest shopping centre, still manages to hold its own in terms of sophistication and class, despite a rash of new high-class malls. Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton and Ermenegildo Zegna are just some of the designer dreams on display, while Tiffany & Co has a street-front store on the ground floor. Check out the Brazilian high-fashion shops like Rosa Chá and Maria Bonita, or for slightly more affordable international style, head for Zara and Diesel. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulistano (3816 6116/iguatemisaopaulo. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, food court 11am-10pm; shops 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. JK Iguatemi A two-month delay in the opening of the deluxe new shopping mall JK Iguatemi, the result of its having failed to comply with traffic-calming measures, hasn’t dampened any of its opulence.With its slick, high-shine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri) and predictable

synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop and its brother brand, Topman. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary. Market Place This is a small, bijou mall that goes for quality, not quantity of stores. A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, it also has an excellent food court with a huge variety of options. Go for baby back ribs at Outback, check out Mango’s Smoothies and Brigaderia, and don’t miss the shops Doc Dog and Calvin Klein. Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan 902, Brooklin (3048 700/marketplace. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Pátio Higienópolis Located on a pleasantly leafy boulevard in this lovely upmarket neighbourhood, this mall is at first hard to distinguish from the mansions and 1950s residential buildings around it. It’s popular for its branch of the high-end pizza joint Bar des Arts, and brands like Calvin Klein underwear and L’Occitane. Avenida Higienópolis 618, Higienópolis (3823 2300/patiohigienopolis.com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Pátio Paulista The largest mall on Avenida Paulista is home to chains like Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering. The sleek interior appeals to Avenida Paulista businessmen, primarily for midday trips to the food court, while kids flock to its small three-screen movie theatre. Rua Treze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 1100/shoppingpaulista.com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm MonSat, 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Top Center After being acquired in 2007 by one of the biggest shopping centre groups in the country, Top Center has had a facelift and become a pleasant, modernised option for those in search of shopping options around Avenida Paulista. On the ground floor, Starbucks attracts a young crowd in search of great coffee and a good Wi-Fi connection. Casual urban fashion is catered for by stores such as M.Officer, Any Any, AnaCapri and Hering, amongst others. Services handy for tourists include a Bureau de Change, car rental (Localiza) and travel agencies (CVC and H.I.S. Turismo). You’ll find all the standard fast food outlets (Subway, Viena, McDonald’s, Rizzo, Spoleto, Giraffas, Divino Fogão, among others) and there’s even a good Japanese restaurant, Miyabi. Avenida Paulista 854, Bela Vista (3145 1819/ topcentershopping.com.br). Open 9am9pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun and holidays. Food court open 11am-9pm; shops noon-6pm.

Shopping

Shopping malls

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Shopping

Villa-Lobos Close to Parque VillaLobos, this mall has a good selection of quality shops and restaurants. Check out Arezzo, arguably Brazil’s best chain store for gorgeous leather bags and shoes (prices rarely dip below R$100 for shoes and R$250 for bags); and Folic, another Brazilian chain with beautifully designed clothing and great bags. The Livraria Cultura on the top floor has a small auditorium. Avenida Das Nações Unidas 4777, Alto de Pinheiros (3024 4200/shoppingvillalobos. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 129pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

New in town Sick ‘n’ Silly

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Capitão Pinto Ferreira Street Market Of São Paulo’s many street markets, this one in Jardim Paulista, one of São Paulo´s wealthiest neighbourhoods, is particularly good. There’s a huge range of fresh fruit and vegetables, and top quality fish and seafood. Rua Capitão Pinto Ferreira, Jardim Paulista. Open 7.30amHaving outgrown its original location on Alameda Jaú, 12.30pm Fri. CEAGESP If you’re interested in Sick ‘n’ Silly, the decidedly 1990s punk-styled skate buying plants, flowers or fruits, try the shop and tattoo parlour, is stretching out in its new, larger state market CEAGESP (also known as Ceasa), located in the west of town close digs on nearby Rua Augusta, hoping to prove it can thrive to Parque Villa-Lobos. The wholesale in the environs of fashionable Jardins. Rounding out market feeds the entire city, but offers a number of retail sales as well, with prices their stock of roller derby and skateboarding equipment, that take some beating. Tuesdays and imported vinyl records, and their own clothing lines (Sick Fridays are plant and flower days. Get there early to find good deals and fresh Mind for men, Silly Girl for women), they’ve brought along products. For fruit, Wednesdays (at night) their roster of resident tattoo artists, and have branched and weekends (in the morning) are the peak times. Avenida Dr Gastão Vidigal out to offer hair salon services as well, providing an 1946, Vila Leopoldina (3643 3700/ added draw beyond their art exhibitions and small-scale ceagesp.gov.br). Open 5am-10am Tue; 4-10pm Wed; 5-10am Fri; 7am-noon Sat; gigs. Rua Augusta 2056, Jardim Paulista (3081 3899/ 7am-1pm Sun. No credit cards. sickmind.com.br). Open 10am-8pm, Tue-Sat; 1-7pm, Sun. Feira da Água Branca Enough of agro-toxic and transgenic products: this market is pro-nature and pro things as they should be found in nature. All the produce here is certified by the Brazilian Its 240 stalls mostly compete for your Feira da República Running Organic Agriculture Association. Parque stomach, with a vast range of Japanese continuously since 1956, this open-air da Água Branca, Água Branca (3875 and Chinese fast-food treats on offer centre has 600 stands and a wide selection 2625). Open 7am-12pm Tue, Sat & Sun. at a reasonable price. Jewellery, bonsai of food, including Japanese yakisoba; Feira de Antiguidades e Arte trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen acarajé, the deep-fried Bahian shrimp do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast utensils are merely secondary. Melona treat; and common or garden hot dogs. everything from antique clocks and ‘creamsicles’ – a curious and There is also a large open-air gallery furniture, clothes and records delicious South Korean where local artists sell paintings. Praça da to vintage watches, brooches ice-cream phenomenon – República, República. Metrô 3, República. and sunglasses. There’s also have become synonymous Open 9am-5pm Sat, Sun. a number of excellent food with Liberdade, and Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The stalls, selling a plethora are available in most Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of delicacies, including grocery stores and some of the edible, spanning all of the city’s u F i Ch homemade Italian cuisine restaurants. Praça da most important ethnic cuisines and g n ti a E inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 displaying an incredibly colourful See t u O nearby version of Little Italy. 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. array of fruit and vegetables. There’s Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun. an abundance of native fruits, as well (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Artes, Cultura e as exotic offerings from Asia. Linger Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista Lazer da Praça Benedito Calixto interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s Surrounded by gift and furniture shops, invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey lace and antique photographs are just this Saturday market sells bric-à-brac as or mangostim; or just pick up slices a few of the many things to be found well as antique furniture – do stay on your of cold pineapple and more unusual at this beautiful market underneath the guard, as many goods are copies – vinyl, fruit salads for a few reais. The famous hulking body of the MASP. Although the clothes and jewellery. It’s busiest in the bacalhau (Portuguese-style salt cod), with prices can be quite hefty, only one-of-aafternoons, when live music, chorinho, its aroma of olive oil and a melt-in-yourkind articles are purveyed here. Avenida kicks in from 2.30 to 6.30pm, and a buzzing mouth quality, is a Mercadão favourite. Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, gay scene spills onto the pavements It can be tried in the form of a pastry Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun. outside some of the square’s bars and at Hocca Bar, or bought at a number of Feira de Arte, Artesanato e cafés. Vendors’ stalls are up early and shops in the market. Parque Dom Pedro Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da stand well into the afternoon, but try to get II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 Liberdade) This weekly fair has been there before 4pm. Praça Benedito Calixto, 1326/mercadomunicipal.com.br). Metrô going since 1975, and remains one of Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto.com.br). 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; São Paulo’s best loved Sunday passeios. Open 8am-7pm Sat. 6am-4pm Sun.

IN THE AREA

Shopping areas Bom Retiro The shopping streets in Bom Retiro, especially along Rua José Paulino, Rua Ribeiro de Lima and Rua Aimorés, are incredibly popular with those looking for bargain-priced clothes. While the majority of the stores are wholesale, some do sell retail. Try to avoid going on Fridays and Saturdays, when the pavements are so crowded that you’d frequently be better off walking on top of the cars. Brás Ruas Oriente, Maria Marcolina and Silva Teles are at the centre of this, the country’s biggest clothing market, said to be worth around R$7 billion. Its 55 streets have turned what used to be an industrial area into a wholesale district, but retail sales are also possible, mostly on Saturdays, on Rua Oriente in particular. Come on a Tuesday and meet the sacoleiros (bag people) who come from all over the country to sell their wares, or check out Latin America’s biggest wholesale mall, Mega Polo Moda (Rua Barão de Ladário 566-670 (3311 2800/megapolomoda.com.br). Largo da Concórdia, Brás (2694 0823/alobras. com.br). Metrô 3, Brás. Open 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; 8am-2pm Sat. . Jardim Paulista (the area most commonly known as ‘Jardins’) National and international designer stores are concentrated here, especially along the ultra-chic Rua Oscar Freire, Alameda Lorena, Rua Bela Cintra and Rua Haddock Lobo. Shops are open from Monday to Saturday, generally from 9am or 10am to 7pm or 8pm. Some of them may also be open on Sundays, especially on the busiest blocks of Rua Oscar Freire, between Rua Melo Alves and Rua Augusta. Pinheiros & Vila Madalena In Pinheiros, antiques stores rule around Rua Cardeal Arcoverde and Praça Benedito Calixto. Not far from there, in Vila Madalena, Rua Aspicuelta, Rua Girassol and Rua Harmonia are home to boutiques and used clothing stores, with the surrounding streets well worth an explore too. Rua da Consolação Located on the Jardins side of Avenida Paulista, this is the street for the city’s best vintage clothing stores as well as some excellent boutiques. If you cross over Avenida Paulista and head towards the centre of the city, you’ll find yourself passing the sparkling lights of São Paulo’s biggest concentration of lighting shops, before you hit Consolação cemetery. Rua 25 de Março Roughly 3,000 shops fill this outdoor market, concentrated in only eight city blocks, where everything from computer games to underwear and watches can be found. More than 400,000 people work and shop here every day. Around Christmas, the number grows to one million shoppers. Don’t forget to also have a look around inside of nearby shopping centres like Mundo Oriental (Rua Barão de Duprat 323, (3229 8089/ mundooriental.com.br) and Galeria Pagé (Rua Barão de Duprat 315, (32 27 3582/ galeriapage.com.br). Rua 25 de Março, Centro (3227 1473/vitrine25demarco. com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 8am6pm Mon-Fri; 8am-2pm Sat.

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Out & About This month in S達o Paulo

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Art & Museums Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Football & World Cup 2014

Restoration process A film screening at the newly revitalised Casa do Povo cultural centre in Bom Retiro

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Art & Museums Welcome to Tijuana

Top table A whimsical stall offering works of printed art at the first Feira de Arte Impressa do Tijuana in 2009

Built in 1953 by Bom Retiro’s immigrant Eastern European Jewish community as a living monument to victims of the Holocaust, the building functioned as a social and cultural hub, hosting innovative dance, political theatre and the

offices of a newspaper, Nossa Voz. During Brazil’s military dictatorship, the Casa do Povo came under scrutiny when it regularly held debates, invited voices of dissent and sheltered those suffering political persecution.

The centre’s founding organisation, the Instituto Cultural Israelita Brasileiro, has made sure that the Casa do Povo never closed its doors – it has been continually functioning since its founding, although in various stages of disrepair – but a new interest in paying homage to the founders’ ideals of critical thinking and progressive expression have helped bring the fair to its main space, adding extra energy and arty spirit to the cultural revitalisation of both the building and Bom Retiro.

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While there’s plenty to be said about the experience of studying art firsthand in a museum or gallery, there’s an intimacy in having printed works you can take home, continually revisit and study at length. With this idea in mind, the fifth edition of the Feira de Arte Impressa do Tijuana – The Tijuana Fair of Printed Art – brings together forty different publishers offering treasures ranging from conceptual graphic microzines to weighty and sumptuously produced art books and posters. This year’s fair marks the first time since its inception in 2009 that it will take place outside its namesake space within Galeria Vermelho, relocating instead to the neighbourhood of Bom Retiro, where it will occupy a section of the immense Casa do Povo cultural centre as well as the nearby Oficina Oswald de Andrade. There, the event will incorporate workshops on book binding, screen printing and the creation of a huge ‘collective book’ of calligraphy by a team of artists in the building’s reading room. The main draw of the fair is the incredible variety of art available for sale, from publishers ranging from São Paulo-based bigwig Cosac Naify, the highly creative, inventive art books by the indie publishers A Bolha from Rio de Janeiro, and Buenos Aires contemporary art museum La Eñe. But the event also aims to reflect on the importance (or lack thereof) of the printed visual arts: debates led by Capacete Entretenimentos’ educational group Máquina de Escrever (‘typewriter’), the online magazine Maré and nationally-minded Turnê Literária, will focus on critical writing’s place in the visual arts, and the potential of virtual platforms versus expression in traditional print media. Visitors to Tijuana will likely be impressed by both the assortment of publications and by the stunning location of the fair – the Casa do Povo is a renovated work in progress, with historic significance and lofty goals for the future.

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The don’t-miss print art fair returns, but moves to an historic location. CM Gorey reports

Moving on up The stairway at the entrance of the Casa do Povo

The 5th Feira de Arte Impressa do Tijuana is at at Casa do Povo, Rua Três Rios 252, Bom Retiro (facebook.com/ casadopovoxxi) and Oficina Oswald de Andrade, Rua Três Rios 363, Bom Retiro (3361 4976/ oficinasculturais.org.br). Open noon8pm (Casa do Povo), 10am-6pm (Oficina Oswald de Andrade). 27 and 28 July. FREE

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Art listings Dust in the wind Instabilidade How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres. Recommended institutions are marked with a .

Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista behind a blank façade that the gallery sometimes uses as a canvas. Inside, in a set of spaces designed by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists, investing considerable care and effort into their careers. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/galeriavermelho.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Marília Razuk Currently based in a highly discreet Itaim location, Marília Razuk has been showing Brazilian and international artists of great stature since 1992. An impressive roster includes the neo-concretist maestro Amilcar de Castro. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 131, Itaim Bibi (3079 0853/galeriamariliarazuk.com.br)

Hailing from the mining-heavy state of Minas Gerais, the Brazilian artist Lais Myrrha uses a variety of media – from video to sculpture and even photography and cartography – to do some digging of her own, exploring the ephemeral nature of the world around us, and questioning the prudence and attainability of ideas such as permanence, independence and equality. The exhibition shares a name with Myrrha’s latest series of works, ‘Zona da Instabilidade’ (instability zone), a trio of pieces featuring concrete dust as a symbol for impermanence and transformation, and portraying these ideas as

mere promises that only exist in the abstract. The temporary and unstable nature of solidity, for instance, is prominent in the concrete sculpture, ‘Pódio para Ninguém’ (‘Podium for Nobody’, above). Other notable works include ‘Dicionário do Impossível’ – a marble reproduction of several of these ‘impossible’, idealised words accompanied by their Portuguese dictionary entries – and ‘O Tempo Corre Para o Norte’, an hourglass whose sand lies static in the upper half, defying all notion of time. ‘Zona da Instabilidade’ is at Caixa Cultural until 25 August. See Museums & Cultural Centres.

Open 10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am3pm Sat. Galeria Oscar Cruz Oscar Cruz has been dealing in contemporary art in São Paulo for over 15 years, and takes part in a number of major international art fairs. The large gallery space, split over two floors, focuses on the work of contemporary Brazilian artists, covering a broad range of media from painting and photography to installation and sculpture. Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 526, Itaim Bibi (3167 0833/ galeriaoscarcruz.com.br). Open 11am7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

and photography, are represented at this glass-fronted two-storey gallery. Rua Haddock Lobo 1406, Jardim Paulista (3064 4725/arteaplicada.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Canvas-SP Galeria After four years operating as a high-end art auction house, Canvas SP has opened a gallery in the same space. They’re keeping the auction and gallery arms of the business separate, although works by various well-known international artists appear in both. Look out for a sign that reads ‘Galeria de Arte’ on an all-glass facade on which the word ‘e-art’ is repeated in blue, as aside from these clues, the address is unmarked. Rua Joaquim Antunes 187, Jardim Paulistano (3061 5715/canvasspgaleria.com.br). Open 10am-7pm MonFri; noon-4pm Sat. Cartel011 This long, thin, two-floor building in Pinheiros is a multi-purpose space that contains a stylish shop as well as a salon, a restaurant out back (Feed Food), and the gallery space. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (3081 4171/ cartel011.com.br). Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. The new building features a

Jardins AM Galeria Horizonte After seven years located in Vila Nova Conceição, this gallery moved to a new larger space in Jardins in 2011. The curator, Angela Martins, represents a roster of artists both in São Paulo and at AM Galeria’s other branch in Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais. Rua Estados Unidos 273, Jardim Paulista (3044 1057/galeriahorizonte.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. No credit cards. Arte Aplicada Galeria Brazilian contemporary artists using techniques including painting, drawing, sculpture

Art & Museums

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

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Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

striking facade made of exposed bricks placed sideways-on to create a surface with hundreds of perforations. Inside, a classic white-cube exhibition space leads up to a large office the gallery plans to share with other creatives, as a kind of hub. And right on top, a terrace, looking out over the treetops of leafy Jardins. Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/emmathomas.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s. With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as mid-career artists such as Alexandre da Cunha. Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/galerialuisastrina.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards. Mendes Wood Injecting a dash of youthful zest and daring into the city’s art scene, Mendes Wood is owned by galleristas Pedro Mendes, Felipe Dmab and Matthew Wood, the latter from the USA. This is a cutting-edge gallery whose artists now include Brazil’s foremost conceptual artist, Tunga, as well as a roster of bright young things. Rua da Consolação 3358, Jardim Paulista (3081 1735/ mendeswood.com). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards. Mônica Filgueiras & Eduardo Machado Mônica Filgueiras, who sadly passed away in 2011, was a highly respected veteran of the São Paulo art scene. She had only recently teamed up with the gallerist Eduardo Machado to form this new joint gallery, featuring edgy street art by the likes of Ozi, Bugre and Gejo as well as works by the Modernist Italian-Brazilian sculptor Victor Brecheret, whose immense Monumento às Bandeiras statue sits in front of Parque do Ibirapuera. Rua Bela Cintra 1533, Jardim Paulista (3081 9492). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2.pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Nara Roesler With her son Alexandre running online gallery Galeria Motor (galeriamotor.com.br), and herself a busy and experienced player, Nara Roesler is an influential name in São Paulo art. Japanese ‘old school contemporary’ painter Tomie Ohtake, founder of the institute that bears her name (see Major institutions), is just one of her artists, as are fashionable young painters like Rodolpho Parigi. Avenida Europa 655, Jardim Europa (3063 2344/nararoesler.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards.. Zipper Galeria The emphasis at this gallery, owned by the experienced galerista Fabio Cimino, is on the new and the pop. We love the now-iconic, voyeuristic photos of unknowing city balcony sunbathers by fashion/ art photographer Felipe Morozini, and the strangely resonant portraits by the young painter Rodrigo Cunha; but with excellent curation and two spaces, upstairs and down, there’s always something on that’s worth seeing here. Rua Estados Unidos 1494, Jardim Paulista (4306 4306/zippergaleria.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat. No credit cards.

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minimalist ground floor space fool you. The stairs lead to a arsenal of artworks, packed floor-to-ceiling with works from almost all fourteen artists on Paralelo’s roster. The gallery, open since 2010, invests in promising new artists like Spain’s Jesús Herrera, as well as seasoned practitioners like the British photographer Jamie Stewart-Granger, who lives in Bahia and whose sensitive photos of the area are simply exquisite. Rua Artur de Azevedo 986, Pinheiros (2495 6876/ paralelogallery.com). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Smith Galeria A new arrival on the Pinheiros art circuit, Smith aims to resist the exclusive bent of swankier galleries and make itself a haven for art mavens and curious dabblers alike. High ceilings and a spacious back yard make it ideal for installations and larger works. New exhibitions open five-weekly, but whatever the show of the moment, Smith dedicates all three storeys to it. Rua João Moura 417/419, Pinheiros (3259 7513/ smithgaleria.com.br). Open 1-7pm TueFri; 10am-2pm Sat. Galeria Virgílio The airy exhibition spaces and pleasant cafe of Galeria Virgílio are a hangout for the Pinheiros art crowd, and the place is unashamedly intellectual. So don’t be surprised to find a social-media journalism course or a jazz show alongside exhibitions by artists like Diego Belda, who is also the chef and owner of Rothko restaurant. Rua Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto 426, Pinheiros (2373 2999/galeriavirgilio.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Perdizes & Pompéia Gravura Brasileira Opened in 1998 by Alberto Fuks and Eduardo Besen to showcase classic and contemporary print art, Gravura Brasileira has since staged more than 100 exhibitions from its Perdizes headquarters. This is one of precious few print-only galleries in Brazil, and its exhibitions are both reliably interesting and of consistently high artistic quality. Rua Dr Franco da Rocha 61, Perdizes (3624 0301/ gravurabrasileira.com). Open 11am-6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat.

Amoa Konoya Arte Indígena Walter Gomes da Silva’s relationship with Brazil’s numerous indigenous tribes goes back to 1984, when members of the União da Nações Indígenas (Union of Indigenous Nations) asked him to market their handiwork. So he knows what he’s talking about. Today, the arts and crafts gallery he runs with Silvana Costa sells work from 60 indigenous settlements, from geometrically-patterned ceramics to arrowheads. Rua João Moura 1002, Pinheiros (3061 0639/amoakonoya.com. br). Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Galeria Estação Gallery director Vilma Eid’s focus is on the cream of Brazilian popular art, displaying a collection of fascinating works, including sculpture and painting by artists such as José Antônio da Silva and Nuca. Rua Ferreira de Araújo 625, Pinheiros (3813 7253/galeriaestacao. com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Logo In a versatile white space with a basement area that means two shows can run concurrently, Galeria Logo is a favourite with the skate/ graffiti/meeja crowd, and got off to a flying start when it opened in 2011 with a series of ambitious, large-scale shows. Rua Artur de Azevedo 401, Pinheiros (3062 2381/galerialogo.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. Galeria nuVEM You might mistake this off-the-wall shop/gallery for a toy shop, with its window display full of dolls and fanciful insect models, which the Korean-born artist Sang crafts from Barbie parts, animal figurines and plastic soap containers. But for a more traditional gallery feel, head to the second floor to see the occasional shows of political and urban themed works by other artists, many of whom are also from Korea, or from other parts of South America. Rua Mateus Grou 355, Pinheiros (3061 1237/ galerianuvem.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Galeria Moura Marsiaj The veteran gallery owners, Laura Marsiaj of Rio de Janeiro and Mariana Moura of Recife, have joined forces to set up shop in São Paulo at Moura Marsiaj in Pinheiros. Your visit might coincide with a show by any one of the thirty-odd up-andcoming artists Laura and Mariana collectively represent. It’s possible to request a viewing of the backroom permanent collection, and best to call ahead for visits between December and February – activity slows down here significantly during the holidays. Rua Mateus Grou 618, Pinheiros (3031 1061/ mouramarsiaj.com.br). Open 10.30am7pm Tue-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. Paralelo Gallery Don’t let the

Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has also developed particularly good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Her gallery occupies a large, airy, industrial space in the rising art district of Barra Funda, where it has the floor space for large installations. Rua Barra Funda 216, Barra Funda (3666 6489/barogaleria. com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. In early 2013, it closed its much loved original gallery space at Rua João Moura, concentrating its activities at what was formerly its second location. It has played a significant role in promoting the city’s street art, and if you find live-wire curator/co-owner Baixo Ribeiro on the premises and up for a chat, you’ll come out wiser on this and many other art-related subjects. Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 2365/choquecultural. com.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat.

Favela chic Dom da Periferia

DOC Galeria This dynamic little gallery upstairs from Posto 6 bar (the gallery owner is also a partner in the lively night spot) specialises in photography, running the Mostra, Vila Madalena’s annual photo festival, as well as a series of workshops and events. Highly recommended. Rua Aspicuelta 662, Vila Madalena (3938 0130/ docgaleria.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat.. Fortes Vilaça Even an art ignoramus will feel the quality at this gallery, one of the most established Brazilian names on the international circuit. They’ve got big names on the roster: São Paulo graffiti stars OsGemeos, the world-renowned installation artist Ernesto Neto, and Beatriz Milhazes and her beautiful, colourful paintings. Look out for the work of the always interesting Adriana Varejão. If there’s something on in particular, the Galpão (warehouse) is well worth a visit, too – but the area isn’t great, so it’s best to take a taxi. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena (3032 7066/fortesvilaca.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards. Other location Galpão Fortes Vilaça (warehouse), Rua James Holland 71, Barra Funda (3392 3942). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri.; 10am6pm Sat. No credit cards.. Galeria Millan The charming André Millan is a mainstay of the Brazilian contemporary art market, and represents, amongst others, the artists Tatiana Blass, Artur Barrio and Ana Maria Maiolino. Millan also shows photographers like Bob Wolfenson, and Miguel Rio Branco, one of the godfathers of contemporary Brazilian photography. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1360, Vila Madalena (3031 6007/galeriamillan.com. br).Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Transversal A new Vila Madalena outpost for the two-year-old Barra Funda gallery, this space is double the size of the original, at 400m2. Swing by to check it out, and combine it with a trip to the nearby galleries Fortes Vilaça and Galeria Millan. The older space will only be used for occasional exhibitions and courses and also as the ‘acervo’ – the back room; so call to check before heading to Barra Funda. Rua Fidalga 545, Vila Madalena (3392 5287/galeriatransversal.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-6pm Sat. Other location Rua do Bosque 206, Barra Funda (3392 5287). Open 11am8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat.

Vila Mariana

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Art & Museums

Pinheiros

Santa Cecília

The journey from favela fashion alum to backstage designer at São Paulo Fashion Week – Brazil’s biggest fashion event – is arduous and usually inconceivable, but for a group of four aspiring designers, the dream came to fruition. But don’t take our word for it: the Dutch photographer Ahmet Polat was around to document it in two separate instances, six years apart, starting with their day-to-day grind early on in the gritty neighbourhood of Campo Limpo, and culminating in all four finding success in their own separate ways. ‘O Dom da Periferia’ runs from 27 June-31 July at DOC Galeria. See listings.

White Cube São Paulo It’s one of the first major international galleries to arrive in São Paulo – but we’re wagering it won’t be the last. Opened in December 2012, London’s White Cube gallery kicked off with a solo show by one of its Brit Art stars, Tracey Emin. It also represents Antony Gormley, love-him-or-hate-him art bad boy Damien Hirst, and a huge list of major international talent, some of whom are already jockeying for a show in SP. As well as bringing artists from its current roster to show in SP, the gallery will be showing Brazilian artists at its new, immense London space in Bermondsey, and possibly even in its Hong Kong branch. Rua Agostinho Rodrigues Filho 550, Vila Mariana (whitecube.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat.

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Museums & cultural centres

and silverware adorn this beautiful house, itself a work of art. Guided tours take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm, and on Saturdays at 10am, 11.30am and 2pm, and they can be booked by phone or by completing a form on the museum’s website. The museum also stages regular musical events. Rua Portugal 43, Jardim Europa (3062 5245/emaklabin. org.br). Open 2-4pm Tue, ThurFri; 10am-2pm Sat, public holidays. Admission R$10; R$5 reductions. Itaú Cultural This bank-owned cultural centre stages some of the best shows in town, from standout fine art to regular exhibitions on all sorts of aspects of culture. It also has a library containing audiovisual research material as well as more traditional sources. Avenida Paulista 149, Bela Vista (2168 1777/itaucultural.org.br). Open 9am8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Museu Afro Brasil The AfroBrazil museum is, quite simply, one of the jewels in the crown of Parque do Ibirapuera. Due to its late abolition, slavery is still an open wound in Brazil’s history; and a closer look at the impressive collection of paintings, photographs and clothing in this museum emphasises the impact African culture has had, and still has, on modern Brazil. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Parque do Ibirapuera (4004 5006/museuafrobrasil.org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. FREE Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC) The MAC contains over 10,000 works by the likes of Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Tarsila do Amaral, Portinari and Di Cavalcanti on its three sites, the newest of which is located in a huge Niemeyer building across the road from Parque do Ibirapuera. The other branches are on the University of São Paulo campus in Cidade Universitária, and a smaller space inside the Bienal building, also in Ibirapuera. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral 1301, Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac.usp.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Other locations Pavilhão Ciccillo Matarazzo, 3rd floor, Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac. usp.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Cidade Universitária, Rua da Praça do Relógio 160 (3091 3039/mac.usp. br). Open 10am-4pm Sat, Sun, public holidays. Museu do Futebol The fascinating Museu do Futebol uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football. A large and engaging collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events to stimulate young supporters into learning the facts and history behind their favourite sport. Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/ museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu.

Art & Museums

Acervo Artístico dos Palácios do Governo do Estado de São Paulo This institution, owned by the State of São Paulo, has an interesting collection of Brazilian modern and baroque art, plus furniture and ceramics, which it displays in exhibitions scattered across its three palaces: Palácio dos Bandeirantes, Palácio do Horto and Palácio Boa Vista – the latter in the town of Campos do Jordão. Palácio dos Bandeirantes, Avenida Morumbi 4500, Morumbi (2193 8282/acervo. sp.gov.br). Open 10am-5pm Tue-Sun. Palácio do Horto, Rua do Horto 931, Horto Florestal (2193 8623/acervo. sp.gov.br). Open 9am-3pm Wed-Sun. Palácio Boa Vista, Avenida Adhemar de Barros 3001, Alto da Boa Vista, Campos do Jordão/SP (12 3662 1122/acervo.sp.gov.br). Open 10am5pm Wed-Sun. Caixa Cultural Owned by the Caixa Econômica Federal bank, this gallery contains 2,000 artworks including paintings, sculptures and carvings by generations of Brazilian artists. Praça da Sé 111, Centro (3321 4400/ caixacultural.com.br) Open 9am-9pm Tue-Sun. Centro Cultural São Paulo São Paulo’s aerodynamic-looking Cultural Centre, perched atop a steep hill beside the Avenida 23 de Maio thoroughfare, is quite an impressive and clever architectural feat. Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the vast, multi-level space. A spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden where you can sit and enjoy views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural. sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE Centro da Cultura Judaica This Torah-shaped building was designed by architect Roberto Loeb and is set behind high gates. (Since the bombing of two Jewish institutions in Argentina in the 1990s, many South American Jewish cultural centres and synagogues have stepped up their security.) The impressive edifice has a bookstore and puts on film festivals and plays. Rua Oscar Freire 2500, Sumaré (3065 4333/culturajudaica.org.br). Metrô 2, Sumaré. Open noon-9pm Tue-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun, public holidays. FREE Espaço Cultural BM&F BOVESPA Combine a visit to one of the temporary exhibitions at the Espaço Cultural, housed inside the entrance hall to São Paulo’s stock exchange, with a guided tour of the financial institution – ask at the reception desk. Praça Antonio Prado 48, Centro (2565 6826). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm. FREE Fundação Ema Gordon Klabin An eclectic, personal mix of exhibits reflects collector Ema Klabin’s interests over four decades. Pre-Columbian, European, Asian and African art, decorative arts,

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Film Film of the month

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Camille Claudel, 1915

Work of art Dumont’s film stars Binoche (left) as the French sculptor during her time in an asylum, where non-actors play the other inmates

Dir. Bruno Dumont, France, 2013. Juliette Binoche, Jean-Luc Vincent, Emmanuel Kauffman. 95 mins.

That date in the title of Bruno Dumont’s Camille Claudel, 1915 is doubly crucial. Not only does it reflect the story’s focus on a specific moment in the life of the sculptor, but it differentiates this film from an earlier movie of almost the same name from 1988, starring Isabelle Adjani. That was a fittingly energetic account (deploying Adjani’s raw intensity) of Claudel’s younger years, as a successful artist taught by, romantically involved with and rivalling

Rodin. Unsurprisingly, this film from the director of L’Humanité and Hadewijch is an altogether more restrained affair, depicting her later incarceration in an asylum near Avignon. It’s arguably the writerdirector’s finest achievement yet. Atypically, he makes use of professional actors in the lead roles, and is rewarded by fine work from Jean-Luc Vincent as the hapless heroine’s poet brother Paul, and by a wonderful performance by Juliette Binoche as Camille. Conveying the intelligence, anxiety, anger and isolation of an artist abandoned by her family, unable to work and forced to live with women

mostly far less capable even of surviving than herself, Binoche displays both eloquent expertise and an admirable control wholly in keeping with the simplicity and clarity of Dumont’s uncompromisingly authentic script and direction. (Rightly, if perhaps controversially, the other inmates of the asylum are mostly played by non-professionals who are themselves severely disabled in real life.) Such story as there is deals with Claudel’s despair at her situation and her forlorn hope of release. Mercifully, even though the last third of the film allows Paul to

discuss – at perhaps too great length – his passionate Catholic beliefs, this is not one of Dumont’s woolly ventures into mystificatory abstraction; sticking to various historical documents, he simply focuses on Claudel’s painful predicament as a woman, an artist, a depressive, and a sentient, intelligent human being. Eschewing metaphor and mysticism (save insofar as his characters adopt them), he has for once given us a film of immense visual beauty, thematic clarity and subtle resonance. Geoff Andrew Camille Claudel, 1915 is released on 9 August.

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Reviews Much Ado About Nothing

No big fuss Fran Kranz (left) and Nathan Fillion co-star in Whedon’s modern take on the Shakespeare comedy verse, and the misty landscapes glisten magically and ominously as the story winds its way through misunderstanding, manipulation, tragedy and romantic triumph. Yet there’s an unfortunate frivolousness to the way the filmmaker treats many of the

darker narrative turns – especially in the case of the easily duped Claudio (Fran Kranz) and his inamorata, Hero (Jillian Morgese) – as if he’s rushing through the hardship to get to the happy ending. The movie feels like too much of a lark. To paraphrase the play’s voice

of reason, Friar Francis, it would be better if Whedon paused awhile and let his counsel sway us more. Keith Uhlich

Film

Angst-ridden vampire slayers. Musically inclined mad-scientist bloggers. The ever-expanding stable of po-faced Marvel superheroes. Joss Whedon has tackled all the great archetypes of our era. What challenge remains but the characters of William Shakespeare, that timeless poet of star-crossed lovers and existentially agitated royalty? The Bard’s mid-career comic romance is in many ways a natural fit for Whedon’s blithe sensibilities, with its slyly lighthearted tone and swoonily amorous entanglements. He’s updated the setting to a modern-day hill manor and made an alluringly idiosyncratic choice to shoot in black and white. The appealing cast is comprised primarily of Whedon alums: Amy Acker and Alexis Denisof are caustic courters Beatrice and Benedick, and a delightfully clueless Nathan Fillion is that ‘ass’ of a constable, Dogberry. No one tongue-trips over the

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Dir. Joss Whedon, USA, 2012. Amy Acker, Alexis Denisof, Fran Kranz. 109 mins.

Much Ado About Nothing (Muito Barulho por Nada) is released on 26 July.

Just Like a Woman

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Dir. Rachid Bouchareb, USA, UK, France, 2012. Sienna Miller, Golshifteh Farahani, Roschdy Zem. 96 mins.

On the wrong track Sienna Miller as an aspiring belly dancer

Marilyn (Sienna Miller) is stuck with a deadbeat spouse, a dead-end job and dreams of being a belly dancer. Mona (Golshifteh Farahani) is an Arab immigrant made to feel guilty over having not given her husband (Roschdy Zem) a child yet. Unexpected unemployment, infidelity and accidental matri-inlaw-icide find this Chicago twosome hightailing toward Santa Fe, where an audition offers Marilyn a brighter future. You can see several narrative off-ramps that Rachid Bouchareb’s drama might take: a Thelma & Louise-like road movie about female empowerment; some Full Monty-ish cutesy-quirk involving liberation through hip-shaking; or a vehicle for a starlet whose looks distract from her talent and who believes that a dowdy turn will establish her

thespian bona fides. So imagine your relief when Just Like a Woman only cherrypicks elements from each, forgoing formulas in favour of the sort of gentler character study the FrancoAlgerian filmmaker excels in. Only the drifting, observational structure he’s set up here never really gels; Bouchareb gives his actors room to roam, but you still get only skindeep sketches instead of flesh-andblood women. Worse, when clichés do start popping up – those phone calls back home, an unexpected if convenient act of violence – the overall looseness makes them stand out that much more. Movies genuinely attuned to the nuances of female bonding are regrettably rare; so, it seems, are ones that know how to make good on their promise without breaking just like a little girl. David Fear Just Like a Woman (Simplesmente uma Mulher) is released on 19 July.

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The Big Wedding

Film

They don’t make matrimonial comedies like they used to. Not only are recent titles cleansed of distinguishing terms like ‘fat’ and ‘Greek’, they can’t even wait five screen minutes before showing Robert De Niro torpedoing his bristly goatee into Susan Sarandon’s willing crotch. (That it takes another ten minutes for Katherine Heigl to projectile vomit seems classily restrained by comparison.) In this cloyingly crude and dispiritingly typical ensemble Hollywood farce, Don (De Niro) and Bebe (Sarandon) are hosting a wedding celebration for their adopted son Alejandro (Ben Barnes) and his bride-to-be Missy (Amanda Seyfried). Things get wacky when Alejandro doesn’t have the heart to tell his visiting ultra-Catholic Colombian birth mother that Don is no longer married to Ellie (Diane Keaton), the woman that raised him, prompting the bickering divorcés to reunite for one wild weekend of bed-hopping, face-punching and eleventh-hour reconciling. Building on his script for The Bucket List, budding auteur of

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Dir. Justin Zackham, USA, 2013. Robert De Niro, Katherine Heigl, Diane Keaton. 89 mins.

Party pooper Decidedly lowbrow gags and cheap plot devices render this wedding comedy a terribly sad affair

geriatric sex Justin Zackham panders to his wizened (and apparently very horny) target audience with a film that’s shot like a pharmaceutical commercial and references tantric orgasms, penile pumps and extramarital

peccadilloes. But in between spikes of soapy sensationalism, The Big Wedding has a seriously hard time getting it up. De Niro and Keaton gamely summon semblances of characters from the tin-eared potty talk, but even

they can’t save this impotent film from amounting to a big nothing. Eric Hynes The Big Wedding (O Casamento do Ano) is released on 30 August.

Film festival Anima Mundi Probert, and the Brazilian Ennio Torresan, fresh from a stint at DreamWorks where he worked on Madagascar and the Kung Fu Panda films. For the general public there are five days jam-packed with film screenings – this edition features a prodigious 485 animations from 53 countries, largely from Brazil, but with a strong presence from France, the USA, the UK and Germany. As if that collection didn’t offer enough choice, there are also dedicated kids’ sessions, another category exclusively for innovative Brazilian works and interesting additional viewing at Anima Multi – a strand covering everything from video games to interactive art.

First held in 1993 by four Brazilian directors who feared for the health of Brazil’s ailing animation industry, Anima Mundi has likely quelled these fears – in this, its 21st annual edition, it’s the second largest film festival of its kind in the world. Catering to filmmakers both established and emerging, the festival hosts a ‘Papos Animados’ (‘lively chats’) series of workshops and panels for amateur auteurs, and a more in-depth forum for pros, the ‘Master Classes’. This year’s roll call of distinguished speakers includes Oscarwinning director Chris Wedge (who worked on the blockbuster Ice Age films), the storyboard creator of ’80s classics Airwolf and Back to the Future, Andrew

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The animation fest brings SP’s movie scene back to life, says Doug Gray

‘The Me Bird’ The vivid short is an interpretation of a poem by Pablo Neruda

Anima Mundi runs from 1418 August at Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca, see listings. For the full programme, see animamundi.com.br. FREE

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Main cinemas

Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. It also also has the advantage of location – next door to the excellent bookshop Livraria Cultura, on the ground floor of the Conjunto Nacional building, on the bustling corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats. Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions. Museu da Imagem e do Som This cinema is located inside the MIS – the Museum of Image and Sound. The stark building in Jardins houses an impressive archive of films, videos, photos and musical compositions, and hosts innovative temporary exhibitions and concerts. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org. br). 2 screens, 66-177 seats. Tickets (for special exhibitions) R$4; R$2 reductions.

Box seats Caixa de Cinema

How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Consolação & Higienópolis Cinemark Pátio Higienópolis This cinema, inside the Shopping Pátio Higienópolis mall, has a good projection system with seats at a steep enough gradient that you’ll always get a good view, even when the cinema is packed. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Higienópolis 646, Higienópolis (3823 2875/cinemark.com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. 6 screens, 98-264 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; R$8-$11 reductions. 3D film tickets R$26-$28; R$3-$4 reductions. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Augusta This cinema, which until recently was known as Espaço Unibanco, is divided into two spaces on either side of Rua Augusta. If you arrive before the movie showtime, feel free to visit the small bookstore located on the odd numbered side of the street, which holds many cultural works and has a good café. Rua Augusta 1470 and 1475, Consolação (3288 6780/itaucinemas.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 5 screens, 51263 seats. Tickets R$14-$22; R$7-$11 reductions; R$10-$20. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca Despite being located in a shopping centre, this cinema has a welcoming ambience. Mainstream movies and arthouse titles

Perhaps conceived to bridge the gap between a full featurefilm cinema experience and our quenchless thirst for on-demand entertainment in the form of YouTube clips, the Caixa de Cinema may just be the anecdote to our dwindling attention spans. The photobooth-cum-jukebox meets impatient film buffs halfway, showing short – albeit very memorable – movie scenes in an intimate booth, complete with two cinema-quality seats, a velvet curtain and an ottoman for good measure. The clips – featuring

120 classic scenes from movies like Pulp Fiction, The Wizard of Oz, and Brazil’s own City of God – are just long enough to enchant us with a bit of movie magic, and can be selected by a touchscreen using multiple search options, including title, actors and genre, among others. With only three scenes allowed per sitting, you’ll find yourself yearning for more when the credits roll. Caixa de Cinema is at the Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) until the end of the year. Open noon-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-9pm Sat, Sun. See listings. FREE

screen daily. Rua Frei Caneca 569, 3rd floor, Frei Caneca Shopping, Consolação (3472 2365/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 9 screens, 103-268 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; 3D film tickets R$26-$28.

R$25-$37; R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations, with some screens showing 3D films. Priority is given to blockbusters though cult films are sometimes shown on the smaller screens. Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa (3024 3851/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18$24; R$9-$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still boasts the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is a VIP room with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas. com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16$24; R$8-$12 reductions. IMAX tickets

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues. It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

Jardins Playarte Bristol Located on the top floors of Shopping Center 3, Playarte Bristol has large screening rooms (more long than wide), and is a good option for passing a couple hours while waiting for traffic to let up. Shopping Center 3, Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3289 0509/playartepictures.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 7 screens, 115444 seats. Tickets R$19-$23; R$9,50$11.50 reductions.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Cinépolis JK Opened in 2012 in the swish JK Iguatemi shopping mall, this cinema is all about luxury – of its eight screening rooms, six are VIP. The other two aren’t too shabby, either: one uses Imax technology and the other, with 4D capacity, can use up to 20 special effects to enhance the viewing experience. It doesn’t come cheap though – tickets are are much as R$68. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, 4th floor, Vila Olímpia (3152 6605/jk.cinepolis.com.br). 8 screens, 67-382 seats. Tickets R$34$68; R$17-$34 reductions. Kinoplex Itaim Housed in the Brascan complex, this cinema is located near a food court with a great variety of restaurants as well as a number of bars for longer nights out. Screens have comfortable armchairs with adjustable head and armrests. Screens mainstream films. Rua Joaquim Floriano 466, Itaim Bibi (3131 2004/kinoplex.com.br). 6 screens, 155-312 seats. Tickets R$10$26; R$5-$13 reductions; 3D films R$28$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions. Kinoplex Vila Olímpia Considered one of the best in town, this cinema, inside Shopping Vila Olímpia, screens mainstream movies and is spotlessly clean, with comfortable screening rooms and friendly staff. Rua Olimpíadas 360, Vila Olímpia (3131 2006/kinoplex.com. br). 7 screens, 98-189 seats. Tickets R$22-$53; R$11-$26.50 reductions.

Film

Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Built in 1901 and restored in 1927 as the first Banco do Brasil in São Paulo, this imposing former bank in the middle of the old city is now a cultural centre, with a café, art exhibitions, theatre and educational programmes. The CCBB cinema programme often includes engrossing retrospectives of internationally renowned directors. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/bb.com.br/cultura). Metrô 1 or 3, Sé or São Bento. 1 screen, 70 seats. Tickets R$4; R$2 reductions. Cine Olido This wonderful little cinema forms part of a cultural complex housed in a classic downtown building. Cine Olido has eclectic yearround programming, often hosting film festivals related to topical national and international cultural events. Avenida São João 473, Centro (3397 0171/galeriaolido.sp.gov.br). Metrô 3, República. 1 screen, 236 seats. Tickets R$1; R$0.50 reductions. No credit cards.

Alisson Louback/PRESS IMAGE

Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

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Gay & Lesbian Family affair Projeto Purpurina Bars

Listings How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

Clubs A Lôca If the image of Alice in Wonderland’s Queen of Hearts as the club’s logo doesn’t say it all, then the names of the parties – Tapa na Pantera (Brazilian slang for getting high) and Loucuras – Portuguese for madness – say the rest. Rua Frei Caneca 916, Consolação (3159 8889/aloca. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open midnight-7am Thu-Sat; 8pm-6am Sun. Admission R$25. ABC Bailão This is a favourite with the over-50s crowd and its admirers. The music ranges from romantic ballads and vintage pop to sertanejo (Brazilian country music) and axé (Bahian music). Rua Marquês de Itu 182, República (3361 7964/abcbailao.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 9pm-3am Thu; 11pm-5am Fri, Sat; 9pm-3am Sun. Admission R$15-$20. Bubu Lounge On Fridays, this club can get crowded and it can get hot, in every way imaginable. Get there early to avoid the queue, but once inside, be ready for some action, with hip beats in the entrance lounge, house and electronic on the dancefloor, and shake-your-booty songs upstairs. Once a month, there’s Bubu Só Para Elas: ladies only. Bubu Lounge, Rua dos Pinheiros 791, Pinheiros (3081 9659/bubulounge.com.br). Open 11.30pm-late Wed-Sat: 7pm-late Sun. Admission R$10-$60. Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35. Flex In the war for the hottest shirtless boys in town, Flex is fighting with the

PRESS IMAGE

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

When the university professor Marcelo Modesto came out as gay in 1992, at the age of 19, it wasn’t only him but also his mother Edith who found herself facing prejudice. With that in mind, the pair created Projeto Purpurina, a support group for young gay people aged 13-24. The group meets on the first and third Sundays of each month, with a film screening on the third Sunday, followed by a discussion. On 21 July, the discussion will be about disability, with the film Love! Valour! Compassion! (above) recounting the lives and loves of eight gay friends, one of whom is blind. Rua Major Sertório 292, República (3031 2106/gph.org.br) 3pm, 21 July; 3pm 4 August. big guns: a huge dancefloor, a booming sound system, go-go dancers to spice it all up and an open-air space for dancing and chilling out. Despite all its efforts, the club hasn’t managed to lure all the pretty boys away from The Week. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767, Barra Funda (3612 4402/flexclub.com.br) Open midnight8am Sat. Admission R$25-$45. Glória This club used to be a church, but on Fridays it’s fashionista Sin City. It attracts classy crowds thanks to its opulent decor, with beds, mirrors and champagne bars. Expect a flamboyant crowd. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/clubegloria.com.br). Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Admission R$10-$50. The L Club In this girls’ club, you get all sorts: from Ellen DeGeneres and Portia de Rossi types to everything in between. On Friday’s, there’s live MPB in the outside lounge area, but the main dance floor rocks with tribal house. Rua Luís Murat 370, Vila Madalena (2604 3393/thelclub.

com.br). Open 11pm-6am Fridays only. Admission R$15-$20. The Week This party is what every other club is trying to copy. It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with summer-season clones in Rio and Florianópolis, and an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. It’s already gone international, with parties popping up in Barcelona, London and Mexico City. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/theweek.com.br). Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$60$80. Tunnel With exuberant music in the main room and vintage pop on the lower level, this party is full of young boys new to the gay scene. It gets a bit crowded, but there’s always the restaurant upstairs. Don’t get too drunk, though: the place is full of stairs. Rua dos Ingleses 355, Bela Vista (3285 0246/tunnel.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$20.

Farol Madalena This venue is a triple threat: bar, restaurant and concert hall. It serves a full menu of traditional petiscos (appetisers) and dishes named after Brazilian beaches, while offering a change of pace from the typical club with live, contemporary Brazilian music. It’s a particularly popular destination with the ladies. Rua Jericó 179, Vila Madalena (3032 6470/farolmadalena. com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 7pm-1am Wed, Thu; 7pm-2am Fri, Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$12; cover R$10$15; O Gato One of the oldest joints in the area, O Gato is a mixture between bar and club. Thursdays are for romance, with a live band and background music. On Fridays and Saturdays, both floors come into play, with a live band and DJ on the first floor, and electronic music on the second. Come and try your luck. Rua Frei Caneca 462, Consolação (3256 3656/ogato.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10pm-6am Thu-Sat. Prices can of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$15.

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This lively café-cum-bar, located in a space with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. The tasty mojito is a good choice. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/freycafe. com.br). Open 4pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15. SAUNA Splash 720 Inaugurated in December 2011, Splash 720 is a venue solely for the gay crowd, and a very handy option for people leaving the nearby nightclub The Week, but who want to keep the party going. Splash features a heated swimming pool and about 40 private rooms (singles and doubles). You need to book either a room or a locker in order to get in. Rua Guaicurus 720, Lapa (4329 0204/ splash720.com.br). Open 24 hours daily Prices Locker rental R$30; single room R$75; double room R$146. SPORT SP Gay Bikers Brazil’s first gay cycling group does weekly weekend bike rides around town and sometimes outside the city. The only requirements: be over 18, have your own bicycle, and wear a helmet. If it rains, the ride is cancelled. Meet 10am Sun, Greengrocer fruit shop, Praça Cordeiro de Farias, Consolação (sp-gay-bikers.blogspot.com). FREE

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Music & Nightlife

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Lasting impression

Splashing back The Breeders (Kelley Deal, Josephine Wiggs, Kim Deal and Jim MacPherson ) will perform their famed 1993 release, ‘Last Splash’

The Breeders return to São Paulo to play the LP Last Splash, which turns 20 this year, reports Rafael Argemon The Breeders was the result of a side project by Kim Deal, who balked when Black Francis (guitarist, vocalist and leader of their then-group, the Pixies) gave the compositions by the bassist (and future vocalist) short shrift. But what were meant to be a few seasons of freedom and respite from Francis, resulted in a band

capable of achieving the kind of commercial success that the Pixies only garnered after splitting up and returning years later, capitalising on the band’s cult status. Deal’s comeback began with Last Splash, The Breeders’ second album, which she recorded with twin sister Kelley (guitar/vocals), Josephine Wiggs (bass) and Jim MacPherson (drums). Since it’s often considered one of the most important records of the 1990s, label 4AD has released LSXX, a bonus-filled edition commemorating its 20-year anniversary. And to promote the recent reissue, the band is set to play the beloved

album in its entirety at its 24 July performance at Cine Joia. This is the third trip to Brazil for the Deal sisters and company following visits in 2003 and 2008. Local fans will be rocking forward to two of The Breeders’ biggest hits, ‘Cannonball’, with its hypnotic, unforgettable bass line and the dulcet and heartfelt longing of ‘Divine Hammer’. Beside these altrock staples, expect strong tracks like the equally catchy ‘Invisible Man’, the sweet rustic swing of ‘Drivin’ on 9’, and the punk-pop feel of ‘I Just Wanna Get Along’. In addition to the first album, 1990’s Pod, The Breeders recorded

three more albums. But none of them mirrored the success of Last Splash, which showcased the strength of Kim’s compositions, previously ignored by Francis Black’s reign over the Pixies. Incidentally, Deal left the group permanently last month to devote herself exclusively to The Breeders. For those who want to relive or possibly experience this treasure of 1990s indie rock for the first time, this is a must-see event.

honour of her mother, the iconic singer Elis Regina. Rita insists that she’s still overwhelmed by the presence of Regina. ‘As my mother is part of the national collective consciousness, it’s important for me to represent and rediscover her legacy. It’s my mission to do everything I can to keep her alive.’ The tour, which is now longer

than originally planned, and takes in most Brazilian cities as well as dates in Lisbon, Porto and Buenos Aires, was the brainchild of Rita herself, who chose many of the classics, like ‘Águas de Março’, ‘Arrastão’, ‘Vida de Bailarina’, ‘O Bêbado e a Equilibrista’, ‘Como Nossos Pais’, ‘Alô, Alô Marciano’, ‘Maria, Maria’ and ‘Fascinação’. Fans in need of a sneak preview

should check out the well-received CD or DVD of the show, which were awarded platinum certification for 80,000 and 50,000 sales, respectively.

The Breeders play at Cine Joia, Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv) on 24 July, 11.30pm. Tickets R$100-$200.

Maria Rita The daughter of vocalist Elis Regina keeps the idol’s memory alive, says Anna Veciana Following a spell out of the spotlight, on maternity leave, the Brazilian singer Maria Rita returns to the stage with her show ‘Redescobrir’ (‘rediscover’), in

Maria Rita plays at Credicard Hall, Avenida das Nações Unidas 17955, Santo Amaro (4003 5588/ credicard.com.br/credicardhall) at 10pm on 19 and 20 July. Tickets R$80-$220.

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Album reviews Sigur Rós

A man after his own heart West’s childish self-love sabotages his latest work

For all the hype around the rapper’s sixth record, it turns out to be frustratingly juvenile says Brent DiCrescenzo Yeezus (Def Jam)

It begins in college. He is naive, idealistic and a preternaturally talented orator. Next he is in New York, working at a paint factory that has perfected the formula for high gloss. Then he is wounded, hooked to a machine in a glass box. Later, he is brought into the world of the elite, where he is seduced by white women. He is asked by his bosses to deliver a speech, to start a movement, but he goes a little too far, gets a little too up his own ass and over people’s heads. Finally, he is disillusioned and becomes militant. He goes underground, living in a room filled with nothing but light fixtures, playing an old soul record over and over.

That is (very) roughly the plot of Ralph Ellison’s novel Invisible Man. Spot any parallels with Kanye West’s career? His picaresque discography runs from The College Dropout to the slick and colorful Graduation to the damaged and mechanical 808s & Heartbreak to this brash and angry latest. Ellison’s unnamed protagonist ends up hiding in a bunker of light bulbs; Kanye claims his new LP was inspired by a lamp. Yeezus H. Christ, I know, it’s pretty unbearable when a critic compares a record to a classic novel. It is tenuous; Yeezus does not equate to one of the great works of American literature. But the pop persona of Kanye West strikes me as a character Ellison would invent had he lived today. West is intoxicated by the power of his voice, but increasingly unsure of how to wield it, and unsure for what greater good it serves. There is one key difference between the Invisible Man and Yeezus. Ellison’s title character claims he is invisible because ‘people refuse to see me’; Kanye has been fading to invisibility because he refuses to let us see him.

It’s difficult to believe that a megalomaniac like Kanye would hang in a studio with a down-to-earth indie dude like Justin Vernon of Bon Iver (who lends his hands to two cuts here), or allow his work to be redacted and tweaked by a Svengali like Rick Rubin at the 11th hour, or keep his ear to the underground to cherry pick collaborators like Evian Christ (‘I’m In It’) and TNGHT (‘Blood on the Leaves’). Vainglorious idiots do not typically surround themselves with this much brainpower. Kanye is a savvy appropriator. His greatest talent is in melding, in the way he can pull together disparate elements like Daft Punk, Vernon, Chief Keef, Nina Simone, TNGHT and his trademark soul samples into a cohesive vision. In that manner, the ’80s pop icon Kanye most recalls is Madonna. Unfortunately, Yeezus is his American Life. If you want to observe West’s keen marketing skills, look at how successful he’s been at convincing writers that Yeezus is some kind of punk statement. Sure, the record certainly begins in a bracing, belligerent manner. The shrill alarm of the opening ‘On Sight’ pushes levels into the red with electroshock bleeps. ‘Black Skinhead,’ far and away the best track, turns a Gary Glitter glam stomp into a goosestepping protest march. There’s a playful obnoxiousness to the deep bass and cheap haunted house jolts of ‘I Am a God.’ This strong opening suite, all produced by Daft Punk to the punishing fuck-you standards of Human After All, leads into ‘New Slaves,’ a cut which begins brilliantly before collapsing into the disappointing, dick-obsessed stupidity of the back stretch. Kanye used to weave captivating narratives of his life and struggles. Today, Kanye talks about his dick. A lot. The major letdown of Yeezus is that for those few vital rants on the corporate prison system and consumerism, the record is largely about a certain penis. Ghostwriters litter the production credits to Yeezus in a blockbuster-like litany that shatters any notion of this record being raw or spontaneous. Check the fine print. Those Rage Against the Machine polemics on ‘Black Skinhead’? Lupe Fiasco is credited. Rhymefest gets noted for ‘On Sight’ and ‘New Slaves’. Invisible men penning lyrics for an invisible man. This CD comes encased in nothingness, in clear plastic. It is an invisible album.

Kveikur (XL)

In 2005, the Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Rós released Takk…, an album of dreamy, ambient music fated to soundtrack a thousand Sky Sports goal montages. Jónsi Birgisson and his group have created some gorgeous sounds, but their placid, drifting songs have tended to fade into the background. It’s a problem the band seem to be aware of, and since Takk… Sigur Rós have been searching for new ways to sharpen their music into something which can’t be ignored. They tried acoustic folk elements on Með suð í eyrum við spilum endalaust (‘With a Buzz in Our Ears We Play Endlessly’) in 2008, and last year’s Valtari added extra synths and a baroque choir. Both were nice enough, but their latest album is something else entirely. Kveikur piles thick layers of distortion and discord onto the beautiful, swooning melodies that made the band’s name. It’s a storming record, showcasing a new direction that could reposition them as one of the world’s best noise-rock bands. The opening track ‘Brennisteinn’ sets this new tone with huge, fuzzy, guitars, and ‘Stormur’ and ‘Kveikur’ deliver thudding, pulsing, churning industrial textures underneath some of the album’s most uplifting harmonies. ‘Rafstraumur’ matches an enormous, howling distorted guitar part and insistent drums with some sugar-sweet singing, while ‘Bláþráður’ is full of weird grinding noises, like huge dark things moving on the very edge of the sound field. Even the gentle strings on the final track, ‘Var’, play long, teeth-grittingly discordant notes. Kveikur is an aural assault from start to finish: an album which refuses to fade into the background. It’s exactly what Sigúr Ros needed to do, and they’ve done it splendidly. For the first time in a long time, Jónsi and company sound surprising. James Manning

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Music & Nightlife

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Kanye West

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Nightclubs New in town Le Rêve

photography to video art and sculpture on display in the covered outdoor bar area, while eclectic live music sets are hosted in the cosier indoor space. Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 0124/ escapeserralheria.org). Open 9pm-2am Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10. Tapas Another nonchalantly cool hangout on the Augusta strip, Tapas is a two-storey bar with DJs and live bands packing out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of ages and musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Lines can reach round the corner, so be sure to arrive early. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação (tapasclub.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-R$15.

How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots. Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Eclectic

Electronica Clash Club The young, pretty crowd at this swish, ultra–modern club gets seriously animated to the latest electronic music. Rua Barra Funda 969, Barra Funda (3661 1500/clashclub.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. Open midnightlate Tues, Fri, Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; cover R$50-$60. D–Edge D–Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace. The crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours. Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Open midnight7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; cover R$20-$80. Disco This club is a favourite with the

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Jazz

Presenting a luxury alternative to the typically trashy Centro end of Rua Augusta, the newly opened Le Réve is a multi-floor club inside a stunning, restored mansion, rocking a playlist of hits from the last twenty years. Rua Marquês de Paranaguá 329, Consolação (3045 8144/ lereveclub.com.br). Open 10pm-late Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$10-$12; caipirinha R$18; cover R$60-$75. city’s young, beautiful and rich, although it’s quite small and often beyond crowded. The highlight of the space – a creation of the architect Isay Weinfeld – is the glittering mirrored corridor that takes you from the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

Indie & rock Beco 203 From rock to electro, go nuts with the fantastic Brazilian and international – mainly rock – bands that take the stage at the paulistano branch of the Porto Alegre nightspot. Indie kids, hipsters and rockers mix on the crowded dance floor, while the upstairs mezzanine provides a calmer view of the stage. While bands are the main draw here, Beco also hosts regular parties, like Indierokkers on Saturdays and the all-you-can-drink-for-R$50 party Fuck Rehab! on Wednesday nights. Smokers might consider quitting for the night, since the indoor smoking area is claustrophobically small. Rua Augusta, 609, Consolação(2339 0351/ beco203.com.br). Open midnight-late Wed-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$14; cover R$20-$40. Manifesto Bar Not just for the mullet and torn jeans set, this small space focusing on hard rock and heavy metal cover bands is actually quite fun. Rua Iguatemi 36C, Itaim Bibi (3168 9595/ manifestobar.com.br). Open 9pm-late Thu; 10pm-late Fri, Sat; 6pm-late Sun.

Shows 10.30pm Thu; 11.30pm Fri, Sat; 8pm Sun. Prices can of beer R$3.90; caipirinha R$10.90; cover R$0-$20. Hangar 110 This gritty, longestablished punk venue is in a grotty and desolate downtown area. Shows finish early so the crowd can get the last metrô home, because you don’t want to hang around late at night. Rua Rodolfo Miranda 110, Bom Retiro (9389 3365/ hangar110.com.br). Metrô 1, Armênia. Open 7-11.30pm. Prices can of beer R$4; cover R$10-$20. Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno, down towards the bottom end of busy Baixo Augusta. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres, like funk, get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Escape to the mezzanine for a bird’s-eye view. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/infernoclub.com. br). Open 11pm-6am; ThuSun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

Bourbon Street Music Club This New Orleans-style bar is big with upmarket paulistanos, who come to hear live jazz and blues. There are shows every night. Rua dos Chanés 127, Moema (5095 6100/bourbonstreet.com. br). Open 8pm Tue, Wed, Sun; 9pm Thu, Fri, Sat. Shows 11pm Tue-Thu; midnight Fri, Sat; 11pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.50-$12; caipirinha R$11.50. Casa de Francisca This tiny, rustic live music bar tucked away in Jardins has live jazz nightly. Rua José Maria Lisboa 190, Jardim Paulista (3052 0547/casadefrancisca.art.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 8pm-1am Tue-Sat; 9.30pm-12.30am Sun. Prices 355ml beer R$8; caipirinha R$12.50. Jazz nos Fundos This is what a jazz dive should feel like: dark (bar the low red light), spartan and unpretentious. It’s basically a hole-in-the-wall in a parking lot, but the music is excellent and it is, after all, all about the jazz. Nice. Rua João Moura 1076, Pinheiros (3083 5975/jazznosfundos.net). Open 8pm-2.30am Thu-Sat; shows 10pm, 1am. Prices cover R$13-$19; small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11.

MPB

Bar do Cidão This spot is beloved by its diehard regulars, and has live samba and chorinho every night. Rua Deputado Lacerda Franco 293, Pinheiros (3813 3111/cidaobar.com.br). Open 7pm-late Mon-Sat. Prices 600ml beer R$5.50-$6.50; caipirinha R$11; cover R$8. Grazie a Dio! This medium-sized, unpretentious, and charming place is one of the best live venues in São Paulo to hear great samba, samba rock and MPB. Get close, dance, and smell the sweat – or sit out back and have dinner. There’s live music Tuesday-Sunday nights, but Friday nights with no the excellent samba rock Melograars combo Clube de Balanço, are See B recommended. On Sundays, Marquinho Dikuã, one of MPB & Latin São Paulo’s leading sambistas, puts Serralheria Espaço Cultural on a fiery show with the Sambasonics. Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, Rua Girassol 67, Vila Madalena (3031 this no-frills venue in a small warehouse 6568/grazieadio.com.br). Open 8pm-late in Lapa has a laid-back vibe and friendly Tue-Sun; shows 10pm Tue, Wed; 11pm owners. Blending bar and exhibition Thu-Sun. Prices cover R$15-$25; small space, you’ll find everything from bottle beer R$4.40; caipirinha R$10.40.

Music & Nightlife

Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wall-to-wall MPB. Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm). Bar Secreto More of a club than a bar, this candle-lit room is decked out with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers and lots of paintings on the walls, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and electronic. The exclusive club (you can’t call – contact is only via email), caters to fashionistas and hipsters. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm-5am Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$22; cover R$80. Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s houseturned-club, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. DJs spin everything from electro rock and ‘80s disco to house. Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92.blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50. Gloria Functioning as a gay club during the rest of the week, on Thursday nights this former church in Bela Vista rocks a mixed crowd of university kids and B-boys from the ‘periphery’ – São Paulo’s grittier outer reaches – with hip hop, soul and dancehall. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/clubegloria.com.br). Open 11pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$9; caipirinha R$18; cover R$20-$50.

IN THE AREA

July 2013 timeout.com/sao-paulo 57 760 MUSIC_19July_bia.indd 57

19/07/13 13:50

Football & World Cup 2014 Next stop, the World Cup

The Confederations Cup, which drew to a close with an impressive victory for Brazil on 30 June, has given Brazil a little taster of what lies ahead with next year’s World Cup. We’re not just talking about how victory might feel on home turf, but about what hosting the games in 2014 is going to entail. Although the Confederations Cup is the smallest of the three major sporting events Brazil will host this decade, it’s had a big impact nonetheless, giving the fans something to be excited about, and bringing the organisers some peace of mind. Faith in the Brazilian team was low when it made its debut in the tournament, just over a month ago. Uninspired play coupled with a change of coach in November had raised a number of concerns, and the team was even booed in some of its warm-up games. But that faith was duly restored when the national side beat the Spanish team in the final, giving the five-time champs their confidence back. Neymar, who needed to prove he could live up to his reputation as the star of his generation, scored four times in five games, also doing justice to his number 10 jersey, once worn by the legendary Pelé. Even Fred, who wears the number

Football listings How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the matches of São Paulo’s four major teams this month. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s always best to check before heading out to a match. Tickets can be purchased online at ingressofacil.com.br and futebolcard.com.br.

Rafael Ribeiro/CBF

Brazil has passed the Confederations Cup test, but there is still plenty of room for improvement, says Cecília Gianesi

Threepeat Brazil’s third-straight Confederations Cup is cause for celebration, but the World Cup still looms large 9 jersey, was commended for his play by Brazil’s modern-day icon, Ronaldo, who made history in that same shirt. Coach Felipão seems to have built the team’s foundation for the World Cup, and should only solidify it in the upcoming friendlies against Switzerland and Portugal. But while Brazil surprised as a team, it merely met expectations as a host country. FIFA president Joseph Blatter said the Confederations Cup was a successful test, though he

didn’t fail to mention what needs to be improved. The widespread demonstrations that consumed the country throughout the Cup are cause for concern. Poor public transport, the intial catalyst for the protests, needs to be resolved. Ticket distribution, with people queueing for hours, was considered a failure. During some matches, the stadiums ran out of food, and were criticised for overpriced refreshments and

unreliable mobile connectivity. All this in a tournament that involved just eight teams and six stadiums, as opposed to the World Cup, which will feature 32 teams and 12 stadiums. The angry protests in June even included calls for the cancellation of the World Cup, criticised for its huge cost to the public purse. That’s highly unlikely; but there’s still room for improvement before the big test. Here’s hoping Brazil will surprise it’s critics yet again.

17 JULY Recopa: Corinthians vs. São Paulo A draw will suffice for Corinthians to get their hands on the South American equivalent of the UEFA Super Cup, as they beat São Paulo 2-1 in the first leg, with gaffs from both teams’ goalkeepers. 9.50pm, Pacaembu. 20 JULY Brasilerão: São Paulo vs. Cruzeiro The teams find themselves in similar positions on the Brasileirão tables, fighting for first place and an early-season edge in the championship. 6.30pm, Morumbi. 21 JULY Brasileirão: Santos vs. Coritiba The team from Paraná was atop the standings for the first 5 rounds, and is trying to keep up the pace, while the Neymar-less paulista team tries to climb out of 16th. 4pm, Vila Belmiro.

28 JULY Brasilerão: Corinthians

14 AUG Brasileirão: Santos vs. Vasco The score in the last three matches was 2-0, with Santos winning two of the encounters. Vasco has the chance to even that out, though hopefully with a score other than a 2-0, to bring an end to this wacky statistic. 10pm, Vila Belmiro.

vs. São Paulo Just 11 days after they decide the Recopa, the rivals will meet again, this time aiming for 3 points in the run for the Brasileirão. It may mean revenge for the losers, or reassertion for the champion. 4pm, Pacaembu. 31 JULY Brasilerão: Corinthians vs. Grêmio Grêmio will look to their new coach Renato Gaúcho for support in the second half of the tournament, and to get through this match on home turf for the Timão. 9pm, Pacaembu. 7 AUG Brasileirão: Santos vs. Corinthians Both teams are trying to find their way after losing their stars to Europe. With Neymar off to Barcelona and Paulinho to Tottenham, who will be missed the most? 4pm, Vila Belmiro.

Football stadium Pacaembu Praça Charles Miller, Pacaembu (3664 4650). Metrô 2, Clinicas. Tickets R$30-$120. Morumbi Praça Roberto Gomes Pedrosa 1 (3749 8000). Tickets R$30-$120. No credit cards. Vila Belmiro Rua Princesa Isabel, no number, Santos (13 3257 4000). Tickets R$20-$60.

58 timeout.com/sao-paulo July 2013 790 FOOTBALL_Bia_19july.indd 58

19/07/13 13:54

SP Essentials 60 62

SHUTTERSTOCK

Map Resources

Lowlights Dusk traffic flows along Avenida 23 de Maio towards the iconic Banesp達o building, in Centro

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19/07/13 13:56

Resources Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

HEALTH For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil. Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of a notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação

da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

instant São Paulo

INST

@timeoutsp

TELEPHONES DiaLling & codes

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Celso Tinôco Cavalcanti (@CELSOTINOCO)

EMERGENCIES

On Instagram? In São Paulo? Submit your best pics of the city for a chance to see them on this page. This month’s featured ’gram is of Edifício Torre Paulista, taken by Celso Tinôco Cavalcanti (@CelsoTinoco). To share your shots with us, just tag them with #timeoutsp. tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

your licence was issued. Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

CYCLING

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit). The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3.20, or for R$5 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App, or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand. Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

WALKING

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3.20), or use a Bilhete Único. Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket. A ride to any destination costs R$3.20 and

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot. The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo. com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img.org. br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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