Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.33/ago. 2013

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dition E h s i l Eng 33 # e u s s I

+ HERBIE HANCOCK + GRETA GERWIG + SP-ARTE/FOTO

ISSN 2179-894X

& ALL THAT

JAZZ

SP’s finest jazz clubs • Bourbon Street Festival Jazz na Fábrica • Restaurants with live music COVER_33_silhueta_biae_19Aug.indd 1

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

You can also find copies of Time Out

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São Paulo magazine at the city’s best newsstands, at the SPTuris stands in Guarulhos and Congonhas airports, and at Movida Rent a Car.

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This month in São Paulo 22 August-21 September 2013

City Beat The word on the street.

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Shopping & Style

6

Features 10

SP-Arte/Foto

Film 53 We speak to Greta Gerwig, the star

From the abstract to the provocative, the focus is on Brazilian photography at this sister event to SP’s annual art fair.

and co-writer of the dark comedy Frances Ha; plus reviews of the month’s new releases.

16

All That Jazz

Getting into the swing of things, São Paulo gears up ER for a pair of big-name jazz COV RY O T S festivals. Plus, we present our favourite spots for dining to the sound of live jazz every night of the week, and our pick of the city’s jazz clubs.

Gay & Lesbian 57 Clubs, bars, cafés and outings: our pick of the city for SP’s LGBT crowd.

Music & Nightlife

Food & Drink Gourmet bars

24

Bars & Cafés

41

52

From mega-malls to crafts and antiques markets, find what you’re looking for, citywide.

58

Herbie Hancock talks to Time Out about his fifty years in jazz, and his second career as a goodwill ambassador for the UN.

We reveal the new bars cooking up unexpectedly fine food options to accompany their perfectly mixed drinks.

Football

62 Santos and Corinthians look to the future, and to coping with the departure of their superstars Neymar and Paulinho.

Art & Museums

SP Essentials 63 Essential information for visitors,

Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover photography Shutterstock

Fresh treat Fruit gazpacho with yogurt sorbet, brand new at Brado

plus a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your images in print.

Quote of the month

This drives me nuts: Oscar-nominated actresses playing the babe role in stupid superhero movies.

Those parts should go to random babes. If great actresses are taking those roles, it means there’s nothing out there.

luiz braga/courtesy of galeria da gavea

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A solo show by the artist Sesper showcases his technique of reworking trash into chaotic human forms; and Italian Renaissance masterpieces grace this month’s exhibitions.

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The city’s top spots for serious night-time sipping, and eye-opening coffee brews.

Home on the range One of Luiz Braga’s stunning portraits, at SP-Foto

GRETA GERWIG interviewed in Film

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sabbre.com

Forget about tasteless refined plates.

Real food is well-served, preferably on a big table, full of beloved people. Here at O Compadre, the plenty and the true taste from the farm rule. Do not slight, come lick your fingers!

Av. Otto Baumgart, 500

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Lar Center Mall Parking Lot

Tel.: + 55 11 2252-3131

www.compadre.com.br

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City Beat

Arnaldo Pappalardo/press image

The Big Picture

Time to reflect Sharing remixed perspectives of our surroundings via pre-programmed sets of filters has become a daily vice for Instagram addicts. And it’s behind the ‘Tavoletta’ series of photographs, too, by the artist Arnaldo Pappalardo. Except that rather than simply applying a filter, Pappalardo fragments a well known vista – the square in front of the Theatro Municipal, in this case – by inserting a mirror into the frame, scrambling the cityscape by way of the reflection. Find more of Pappalardo’s urban visions at the Museu da Casa Brasileira, until 22 Sep. See Art and Museums.

Editor’s letter SP’s art scene is on the ascent again. With sales of Brazilian art up – and prices, too – there’s even more of a buzz than usual around the art world. And there’s nothing like SP-Arte/Foto, getting into gear as the magazine hits the stands this month, for slipping in through one of art’s most instant, accessible portals: that of photography.

Like SP-Arte itself, the annual photography fair is mostly about commerce, with hefty sums changing hands at the stands of participating galleries, oiled by a whirl of dinners and cocktail parties that takes place

CORRECTION around the event – for the select few, that is.

But we love it for the chance to drift inside, mingling with the gallerists, collectors, artists and aficionados to get our fix of some of the finest art photography it’s possible to see. Try not to miss it – or if you do, turn straight to our SP-Foto feature (p. 10), where we’ve picked out some of the best images from this year’s annual photography extravaganza.

Claire Rigby Editor-in-chief

A photo of the restaurant Maria Escaleira, sent to us by the establishment for publication alongside our review of the restaurant in issue 31, was missing the correct credit. In place of ‘Press image’, it should have read ‘Ailin Aleixo/ Gastrolândia’. It was also published on our website. A second image by the same author, this time of the restaurant Nama Baru, was also published on our website without the correct credit and, unbeknownst to us, without express authorisation. Both images have been removed from the site.

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Find us online … timeout.com/sao-paulo

Stay up to date with the best of what’s happening in São Paulo daily by heading to timeout.com/ sao-paulo. Join us on the social networks too: we’re on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

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Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil.

Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini

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Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy Editor (Portuguese) Marina Monzillo Contributing Assistant Editors Rafael Argemon, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Christine Puleo Proofreader Fabiana Caso

Coming up on the website

Rio de Janeiro Editor (English) Doug Gray Editor (Portuguese) Alice Moura

It’s a sensory overload in São Paulo with clouds of colour flying high at the Hindu-inspired Holi One colour fest, and an Italian feast in Bixiga. Meanwhile over in Rio, keep it strictly cultural with the best music, dance and art events.

Design Art Director Bia Gomes Print Production Gráfica Aquarela Contributors Cath Clarke, Márcio Cruz, Roseanne Hanley, Eric Hynes, Andrzej Lukowski, James Manning, Joshua Rothkopf, Keith Uhlich

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Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro

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Administration Finance Director Gregório Correa de Ávila Finance Analyst Sueli Maria da Silva

Festa de nossa senhora de achiropita Join the

masses chowing down on plates of pasta and pizza at this annual fundraiser on the streets of São Paulo’s ‘Little Italy’, Bixiga. Until 1 Sep. j.mp/TOSP_achiro

Holi ONe For the chance to get dusted in dye, sign up to this after-

noon of colour-chucking mayhem at the Praça Cívica at Barra Funda’s Memorial da América Latina, inspired by the Holi day, when Hindus celebrate Spring. 17 Aug. j.mp/TOSP_hone

Rio de janeiro timeout.com/rio/en

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD Cathy Runciman International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

Rock in Rio Beyoncé, Justin

Timberlake and Bruce Springsteen are among the superstar headliners at September’s sell-out music festival. Get the lowdown on the line-up. bit.ly/TORJrockrio

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No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.

alvin ailey AMERICAN DANCE THEATER The legendary

New York choreographer’s dance company takes to the stage at Barra da Tijuca’s Cidade das Artes. 11-15 Sep. bit.ly/TORJalvail

Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

Artrio Vibrant collages by

part-time Rio resident Vik Muniz are just some of the heavy-weight contemporary artworks on display at the city’s third annual art fest.

5-8 Sep. bit.ly/TORJartrio

The key to our five-star rating system

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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Treat yourself to a look at the cream of Brazilian and international photography at SP-Foto, says Claire Rigby

mila mayer/courtesy of ArtEEdições

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Tropicalia I – by Mila Mayer, on show at the stand belonging to São Paulo’s ArteEdições gallery

EYE SPY SP-Arte/Foto

n ongoing testament to the importance of photography in contemporary art, SP-Foto is the perfect complement to its sister event, SP-Arte. And if you had the pleasure of visiting the art fair, which took place in April, take it from us: a trip to SP-Foto is an equally rewarding experience, and on a more compact, manageable scale at that.

Unlike SP-Arte, which attracts an elite pack of international galleries, the four-day SP-Arte/Foto, to give it its full name, is all about Brazilian galleries this year. And though many of the galleries feature cosmopolitan rosters of photographers, for many visitors, the fair is an annual chance to take the measure of Brazil’s art photography scene – not to mention a chance to soak up some of the best of Brazilcentric imagery, featuring the country in all its wanton, profligate beauty.

Tropical heat rises almost visibly from the sultry images by the photographer Luiz Braga at Galeria da Gávea, in the form of a set of portraits taken on Marajó Island, in the Amazon River delta. The images raise the question, with their sumptuous textures in black and white, of how painting can possibly compete with this: with the subjects’ skin glowing into the camera; with the gaze, dreaming into the distance or looking back at us; with the moment, captured in an instant.

Braga’s portraits are familiarly, warmly human, and yet done with a vivid artistry and loveliness that life rarely presents in the flesh.

At Luciana Brito’s stand, Thomaz Farkas’s 1960 image showing ordinary Brazilians seeing the Congress building for the first time in their new capital, Brasília, is complemented by a contemporary image of the city that forms part of a selection at Brasília’s A Casa da Luz Vermelha, a newcomer to SP-Foto. The untitled image (above right), by Anderson Schneider, has all the midcentury-modern air of an episode of Mad Men, not least for the drama inbued in the shot, and yet was taken in 2007, as part of the series ‘Brasília Concreta’.

Abstract masterpieces by the likes of Geraldo de Barros and Gaspar Gasparian, and complex, photo-montage landscapes by Claudia Jaguaribe give the lie to any notion of photography’s unmediated ‘realness’, while questions like this will be up for discussion at a series of debates held in the auditorium of Shopping JK’s Livraria da Vila bookstore (2nd floor). One of the art year’s most rewarding, approachable events, SPFoto is highly recommended: catch it if you can.

SP-Arte/Foto (sp-arte.com) is at Shopping JK Iguatemi (see Shopping) from 22-25 August,and opens from 2pm-8pm daily. Free.

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Anderson Schneider/courtesy of A casa da luz vermelha

SP FOTO

Giorgio Colombo/courtesy of jaqueline martins

joão paulo Barbosa/courtesy of a casa da luz vermelha

Untitled – by Anderson Schneider, part of the series ‘Brasília Concreta’, at the Brasília gallery A Casa Da Luz Vermelha, which is at SP-Foto for the first time

Concert for TV Cello – by Charlotte Moorman & Nam June Paik

Eu Lírico III – by Sheila Oliveira, from the series ‘Anotações Herméticas’, at Fauna Galeria

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martin parr/courtesy of galeria lume

SP FOTO

tony camrago/courtesy of sim galeria

albano afonso/courtesy of casa triângulo

The Last Resort 40 – by Martin Parr, at Galeria Lume

FP62 – by Tony Camargo. Laminated photographic poster on MDF structure, at SIM Galeria.

luiz braga/courtesy of galeria da gávea

Cristalização da Paisagem – by Albano Afonso

Descansando na Canoa – by Luiz Braga, at Galeria da Gávea. The image is from a set of photos taken on Ilha de Marajó, an island at the mouth of the Amazon River

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Tinko czetwertynski/courtesy of eduardo fernandes

chico albuquerque/courtesy of instituto moreira salles

SP FOTO

Disc Wash – by Tinko Czetwertynski, at Galeria Eduardo Fernandes

haruo ohara/courtesy of instituto moreira salles

Bonde Elétrico – by Chico Albuquerque, at Instituto Moreira Salles (IMS)

Hans Eijkelboom/courtesy of fotospot

vicente de mello/courtesy of eduardo fernandes

Originalidade – by Haruo Ohara, at IMS

Photo Note, November 15, 1996, Ketelstraat, Arnhem NL – by Hans Eijkelboom at Fotospot

Les Yeux de la Renaissance – by Vicente de Mello

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And All That

JAZZ

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Finding live jazz in São Paulo has never been a problem – but two festivals and a number of longawaited jazz joints are ready to propel the genre into a full-blown musical trend, says Márcio Cruz

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ON THE HORNS Trombonist Jorginho Neto is one of Jazz na Fabrica’s countless acts

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inásio do Parque do Ibirapuera, São Paulo, November 1957. The crowd is buzzing with anticipation, and the venue – a sports supercentre that had debuted in January of that year – is packed with restless concertgoers. Tonight’s main attraction, the American singer, jazz trumpeter and all-time great, Louis Armstrong, is dressed in his typically distinctive attire, joking around in the dressing room – and making a pass, as rumour had it at the time, at the singer Sapoti, also known as Ângela Maria, the then-queen of Brazilian radio. The concert is already 45 minutes behind schedule, when a chant breaks out out front, in the audience: ‘Hello, Dolly, this is Louis, Dolly.’

In just his second Brazilian appearance (the first took place two days earlier at the Teatro Paramount), Armstrong has São Paulo chomping at the bit for his brand of jazz. A little over a year earlier, another legendary trumpeter, Dizzie Gillespie, had visited Brazil. And, in 1960, the country welcomed jazz great Ella Fitzgerald, who was greeted with enthusiasm by audiences and the press. Nevertheless, the city failed to keep the momentum of these legendary performances.

‘Dude, that was more than 40 years ago,’ says the paulistano guitarist Ricardo Baldacci, 35, the eponymous leader of a swing jazz trio that plays regularly at a lindy hop (a popular jazz dance) SP nightclub. ‘Jazz is either music for the old, or for the alternative,’ he continues. ‘Brazil has excellent jazz musicians. But there’s no culture of consuming jazz here. For Brazilians, Coltrane and Chet Baker are all the same. Trumpet and saxophone are the same thing,’ he complains.

In turn, despite jazz’s humble origins – it emerged in early-20th-century New Orleans and spread into other southern cities before reaching New York and becoming a cultural phenomenon in the USA – Baldacci feels the genre has evolved into something only consumed by an elite few in São Paulo.

São Paulo’s relationship with jazz, however, has begun to change over the last decade, with the opening of new venues. Bars such as Madeleine in Vila Madalena, and Teta and Jazz nos Fundos in Pinheiros, have invested in charming spaces, from chic to rustic, to suit the tastes of jazz aficionados of every stripe.

Joining the city’s growing ensemble of establishments, and boasting good prices, menus, service and facilities, two new establishments were opened in July. The Jazz nos Fundos partners opened Jazz B, a few steps away from the Praça da República, and meanwhile, in Vila Madalena, QualCasa, a mix between a gallery and bar, with a space for weekend jazz concerts, recently opened on Rua Simão Alvares.

In early September, bar Riviera, at the intersection of Avenida Paulista and Rua da Consolação, will reopen; the businessman Facundo Guerra, partner at Lions Club, Yacht and Cine Joia, among others, and the superchef Alex Atala, owner of restaurants Dalva e Dito and the worldclass D.O.M., are the duo at the helm. With two nights a week dedicated to jazz, Guerra is hoping to attract a younger contingent to the genre. ‘When you travel abroad, to New York, Paris, you find more jazz spots than you do in São Paulo,’ says Guerra. ‘And while the clientele here tends to be older, the jazz bars abroad attract a younger crowd, from twenty-something to thirty. Every time I travel abroad, I come back with the intention of opening a jazz venue here,’ he continues.

‘Riviera will offer a complete experience. Good infrastructure, good music, good drinks and fair prices,’ says Guerra. With a house band composed of four musicians, the fifth band member each time will be an invited guest. Saturday nights, the band will play classic jazz albums in their entirety – and in what we like to think of as an excellently auspicious omen, the premiere will feature none other than Time Out (1959), by the American pianist Dave Brubeck (1920-2012), the first jazz album to go platinum.

Apparently, we’re not the only ones who think this turn of the tide is cause for celebration: SP’s jazzed-up local scene is poised to peak this month, with two large jazz festivals, and a concert by Herbie Hancock (turn to Music for our interview with Hancock). The first of the two festivals, Jazz na Fábrica, is in its third edition, and features names like the legendary pianist McCoy Tyner, and the guru of the Hammond B-3 organ, Lonnie Smith. The second, the Bourbon Street Fest, is an annual New-Orleans-themed romp presented by its namesake, Bourbon Street, a jazz and blues club that’s been going strong for nearly 20 years. The vibrant schedule makes this 11th edition a must for anyone who wants to better understand the evolution of jazz throughout the 20th century, and potentially experience jazz’s tipping point in São Paulo.

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jazz bars

Jazz nos Fundos

dim the lights Candlelit crowds soak up a variety of sets at this cosy charmer

Rafael Furquim/press image

Experimental space attracts avantgarde and international jazz fans

Madeleine Jazz Bar A comfortable space with a solid line-up, this alluring resto-bar in Vila Madalena attracts jazz purists and romantic couples alike B-3, with Wagner Vasconcelos on drums and Daniel Daibem on guitar. The latter presented Rádio Eldorado FM’s much-loved programme ‘Sala dos Professores’ from 2003-11, and though that programme is no more, part of the band’s appeal is in Daibem and the other band members’ inter-song musical chat, sharing a wealth of jazz knowledge.

Adding to the educational theme, the trio Groofboogaloo’s set, ‘A Musical Adventure’, traces the evolution of boogaloo (a type of danceable Latin jazz), and offers brief lessons on the influences of the subgenre – very popular in the USA in the 1960s – on funk and drum’n’bass. If all that food for thought gives you an appetite, try chef Ana Soares’s signature Bistrô Pizza dish – pasta with red wine, mushrooms, asparagus, goat camembert, raisins and prosciutto (R$52).

Rua João Moura 1076, Pinheiros (3083 5975/ jazznosfundos.net). Open 8pm-2.30am Tue-Sat. Shows 10pm, 1am. Metrô 2, Sumaré. Prices chope R$6.50; caipirinha R$11; cover R$13-$19.

nook and cranny Squeeze into this pintsized Pinheiros dive

Rua Aspicuelta 201, Vila Madalena (2936 0616/ madeleine.com.br). Open 7pm-last client Tue to Sat. Shows 9.30pm. Prices chope R$8.60; caipirinha; R$16.90; cover R$17-$26 (minimum spend R$50 on Sat).

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In this cosy restaurant and jazz bar on Rua Aspicuelta, a few blocks from the buzzing epicentre of Vila Madalena, look out for the guys in the pork pie hats – a look popular among the USA’s black population from the 1920s-1950s. They’re the waiters of Madeleine Jazz Bar, attending to candlelit tables to the rhythm of bands playing jazz, blues, choro and MPB – Brazilian popular music.

Opened in 2009, the bar attracts mostly attentively-listening couples and groups of friends who can select from four welcoming spaces. The main hall, with exposed brick walls and images of architectural details of the old city centre, is front and centre to the stage, and perfect for groups of friends. The mezzanine and basement are ideal for those who prefer a more reserved environment, while the balcony is also available for group reservations and events.

The spot is open from Tuesday to Sunday, with varied line-ups on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

However, real devotees should be sure to check out Thursday nights, with Hammond Grooves, a trio made up of Daniel Latorre on the Hammond

If the term ‘garage jazz’ exists, it might have been coined in this diminutive dive, which has invigorated the São Paulo jazz scene and won over a faithful audience in a space tucked behind a parking lot on Rua João Moura. Its entryway isn’t visible from the street, and you need to pass through the car park and down a hallway to reach it, one of SP’s finest hidden gems. The project began as a party for friends and remained a secret of sorts for years. ‘Not much has changed. We don't do much publicity. We understand that publicity is through word of mouth and also make sure that the house doesn’t exceed capacity [150 people],’ says employee Danilo Tavares, 23.

The dimly-lit, rustic space is filled with well-worn chairs and tables and works from artist and videographer Daniel Bernadinelli. Names from the international jazz circuit, like pianists Walter Lang from Germany, Ricardo Castellanos from Cuba and the French-Swiss quartet No Square, have all played here. The bar has a good range of beers and cocktails, and you can even get a taste of Creole culture with the hearty Muffuletta sandwich of New Orleans fame (R$12-$34).

best of the rest Bourbon Street Music Club

Piano Bar at the Terraço Itália

QualCasa

Voted amongst the world’s top 150 jazz clubs by the US jazz magazine Downbeat, Bourbon Street is probably the city’s highest calibre jazz bar, hosting top local and international artists playing jazz, blues, soul and Latin swing, as well as organising one of SP’s biggest annual jazz festivals (see page 22). Rua dos Chanés 127, Moema (5095 6100/bourbonstreet.com.br). Open 8pm Mon-Tue; 9pm Wed-Sat; 8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.90-$9.50; caipirinha R$17.

From its vantage point on the 42nd floor of the Edifício Itália, the Piano Bar – part of the Terraço Itália restaurant – entertains tourists and couples alike with panoramic views, leather armchairs, a self-service Enomatic wine machine and live jazz. Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (2189 2929/terracoitalia.com. br). Open 3pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 3pm1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Shows 9pm. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$22; cover R$30-$40.

Opened just last month, QualCasa blends exhibition space, design store and café in one, and has a changing roster of jazz bands playing (7-11pm) on the ground floor.

Behind the new venture are Gil Barbosa, who used to run Teta (see opposite page), and the musician and artist Mario Netto. Rua Simão Álvares 951, Pinheiros (3798 7508/ qualcasa.arte.br). Open 11am-11pm Thu-Fri; 4pm-11pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$2.50; small bottle beer R$7.

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Jazz B Jazz nos Fundos’s outpost in the city centre has its own charm, and grandstand-style seating for shows JAZZ B IS THE HAPPY RESULT of Jazz nos Fundos’s pop-up appearance at Brahminha in 2012, which encouraged its partners to launch a location in the city centre, a few steps from the Praça da República. If you frequent Jazz nos Fundos, you’ll be surprised how easily you can stumble upon the new space – the house is plainly visible from the street, a stark contrast from the Pinheiros hideaway that spawned this jazz joint.

The venue, which opened in July, boasted a jazz pedigree even before its debut – it’s located at the same address as the now-closed Jazz Bar B – but the new space has been totally revamped.

Two areas are connected to the stageless performance area. On one side, a studious audience sits in a small, crowded grandstand. On the other, most of the crowd ignores the tables and remains standing while nursing drinks – often a Santa-Catarina-brewed Saint Bier draft (R$7-$11). Tuna cubes with a spicy sauce (R$19) or cheese skewers with honey and mint pesto ($R16) are good calls if you’re hungry. The house typically presents a different lineup from its sibling bar, but the same acts sometimes play at both bars on different days.

Rua General Jardim 43, Vila Buarque (3257 4290/jazzb.net). Open 8pm-2am Wed-Sat. Prices chope R$6-$10; caipirinha R$14; cover R$25.

All of Jazz

BIJOU SPOT Guitarist Tony Babalu keeps it tight at compact Teta

This go-to spot for traditional jazz also welcomes new talent

RONE BENTO

ONE OF THE CITY’S oldest jazz bars, All of Jazz was launched in August 1995, on the birthday of Canadian pianist Oscar Peterson (1925-2007), one of the all-time greats. The tributes to the genre’s stars don’t stop there, as photos of Miles Davis, Billie Holiday and Chet Baker cover the walls of the pub, which is complemented by dark wood tables and bar. While honouring stars from the past, owner Antônio Augusto Deleuse, 68, is also known for his generosity towards young musicians. All of Jazz features more experienced musicians, such as Argentine saxophonist Hector Costita and Joseval Paes, but Monday through Thursdays are for new groups or budding artists,’ says guitarist Ricardo Baldacci, who played there monthly from 2005 to 2007. The second floor features a record store, open during regular club hours, with a good collection of jazz classics and bossa nova, in addition to DVDs and books on the topic of music. The only weakness might be the confusing English name of the place, which is an improvised riff (like all the best jazz) on the song ‘All That Jazz’ – with results that sound awkward to native ears.

Teta Jazz Bar e Restaurante Synonymous with bohemia in Pinheiros, this bar combines good music with food and flirting

Rua João Cachoeira 1366, Itaim (3849 1345/allofjazz.com.br). Open 8pm-late Mon-Fri; 9pm-late Sat and holidays. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinha R$17; cover R$15-$35.

ALL OF THE GREATS This traditional joint is full of jazz tributes

Serralheria

Ton Ton Jazz

A low-key warehouse space in the offthe-beaten-path neighbourhood of Lapa, Serralheria is not known for its acoustics, but draws a music-savvy crowd nonetheless who pack in along wooden benches to listen to an eclectic roster of bands. Friday nights usually feature contemporary jazz.

Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (98272 5978/ escapeserralheria.org). Open 9pm Thu; 10pm Fri-Sat; 6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$12; cover R$20.

Set in a barn-like space with a stage at one end facing the bar at the other, Ton Ton Jazz has live music every night of the week, with bands playing everything from reggae and soul to pop and classic rock.

A late-thirties-and-up crowd go for the jazz – a permanent fixture for Saturday nights.

Alameda dos Pamaris 55, Moema (3804 0856/tontonjazz.com.br). Open 7.30pm-late Tue-Sun. Prices chope R$6.50; caipirinha R$15; cover R$25.

ANA PUPULIN

GRMISITI/PRESS IMAGE

IN PLAIN SIGHT Jazz B opens its doors downtown

TABLES CRAMMED close together, patrons regularly colliding, and a cozy atmosphere: at Teta, one of the oldest jazz bars in Pinheiros, a casual and improvisational mood extends beyond the music.

Whether at tables and couches in the anteroom, or next to the stage alongside a Schumann piano, the bar’s regulars make themselves very much at home. Perhaps that's because Teta blurs the lines between the house’s performers, audience and employees (nearly all artists). Standing between the tables, a tall man in a beret grabs his order and chats with the waiters. It’s 23-year-old musician Conrado Dess. A former waiter at Teta, he often returns to see friends and to listen to DJ music.

‘I love the background music. Here you hear everything from Edith Piaf to Nina Simone. ’ Amongst the house’s specialties are the filé aperitivo – filet mignon slices in a gorgonzola-and-wine sauce (R$54) – , the queijo camembert – a warm, creamy camembert cheese pastry covered in honey (R$46.50) and a homemade ‘Smirnoff ice’ – Smirnoff vodka, lemon juice, sugar and lemonade soda (R$17).

The unique bar, led by the brotherly duo of Marcelo and Marcos Zaccarelli, has operated for about 10 years at the former address of rock venue Nosferatu and is one of the city’s favourite jazz joints, so you’ll want to make reservations or arrive early to snag a comfortable space near the band. Another option is avoiding the weekend, and opting for quieter nights, like Wednesdays, which feature performances by the guitarist, violinist and composer Pollaco. But those looking for fun till dawn can simply wait for the early birds to file out – on Fridays and Saturdays, the curtains fall at 5am.

Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 1265, Pinheiros (3031 1641). Open 7.30pm-5am Tue-Sat. Prices can of beer R$6.50-$7.20; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$15.

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restaurants

Soundtrack to your supper If you want to hear some jazz, you go to a jazz club. But who said you couldn’t multitask while you’re at it, by dining to the strains of live jazz? If you, like us, can’t think of any genre of music you’d rather dine to, then read on for our day-by-day round-up of restaurants and bars where you can team dinner with jazz

Monday

Tuesday

Right opposite the smart Fasano hotel in the heart of designer Jardins, the luxe Alucci Alucci draws a moneyed crowd for contemporary eats in a flamboyant setting. The musician Guerreiro and band liven up every other Monday night (19 August, 9 September), playing the likes of Ray Charles and Cole Porter. Rua Vitório Fasano 35, Jardim Paulista (3086 1252/alucci.com.br). Cover R$15.

Each month sees a different band take to the stage above the mighty brewing tanks at this microbrewery-cum-bar. In August, the father-and-son duo Renato Anesi and Erico will be playing instrumental blues and improv (20, 27 August). To eat, expect excellent bar fare and beyond, with salads, soups, risottos and meat dishes. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros (3628 5000/ cervejarianacional.com.br). Cover R$12. See Bar listings.

São Cristóvão

While most of its neighbouring botecos take a night off after Vila Madalena’s reliably frenetic weekends, remaining firmly closed, the friendly, low-key São Cristóvão keeps a discerning crowd fed and watered to the tune of live jazz every Monday night. Team it with a plate of hearty fare, such as bacalhau em lascas (salted cod with beans, R$21), to soak up the last of Saturday and Sunday’s suds.

Rua Aspicuelta 533, Vila Madalena (3097 9904). Cover R$25 inside. R$18 outside.

sophisticate Guerreiro and his band entertain Jardins' upmarket crowd

Cervejaria Nacional

Buttina

One of the big draws of this old-school Italian trattoria is the space – a high-ceilinged interior leads out to an open-air terrace, under the shade of stately jabuticaba trees – as well as its roster of Tuesday-night guest musicians, from Brazil and abroad, playing live jazz as well as MPB and bossa nova. Check the programme at facebook.com/restaurantebuttina. Rua João Moura 976, Pinheiros (3083 5991/buttina.com.br).

Cover R$25-$30. See Restaurant listings.

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jazz is brewing Cervejaria Nacional welcomes live blues

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Alucci Alucci

Wednesday Ruella

bar.

The upstairs floor at this recently-opened gastrobar transforms into a dancefloor on certain nights as the music ramps up and the tables are cleared away to make space for boogying. Wednesdays are all about jazz, with groove on Thursdays. Rua Joaquim Antunes 248, Jardim Paulistano (3061 3810/barbar.com.br). Cover R$20.

dinner for deux Ruella’s local acts follow its French fare

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The cutesy, candlelit interior and affordable French-inspired bistro fare make this a popular spot for young couples and groups of friends. ‘Dinner Jam Ruella’ is an added draw on Wednesday nights, with a roster of local stars, of the calibre of Blubell (a folk-leaning contemporary singer on the rise), stepping up to the mic with their backing bands. Check the line-up online. Rua Vupabuçu 199, Pinheiros (3097 9257/ruella.com.br). Cover R$28.

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Friday AMADEO

A relative newcomer to Vila Mariana’s busiest bar and restaurant strip, Amadeo’s calling card is its music. The post-work crowds pile in on Friday nights to tune in to the live contemporary jazz trio play. Helpings of pastas or steaks are a good way to soak up the suds. Rua Joaquim Tavora, 1078, Vila Mariana (2538 2628/ baramadeo.com.br). Cover R$5.

ENOTECA SAINT VIN SAINT

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An impossibly charming restaurant, with just 12 tables, a chalkboard menu of Mediterranean eats, and one of the best selections of organic and biodynamic wines in the city, Enoteca Saint Vin Saint ramps up the romance with jazz sax on Thursday nights, and a jazz duet on Friday nights. Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 811, Itaim Bibi (3846 0384/saintvinsaint.com.br). Cover R$15.

TERRACE TRIO Le Serges liven up dinner at the artsy Brado

WINE AND DINE Pair wine and jazz at Enoteca Saint Vin Saint

Thursday DOMENICO

Thursdays are the unrivalled best nights for dining out with jazz. From the basement dinner-and-jazz sessions at the Pinheiros antique shop Restaurateur (read more at j.mp/TOSP_jazzfood) to the light suppers with jazz at the gourmet coffee house Octávio Café (see Café listings), you’ll be spoiled for choice. The recently opened, upmarket Italian restaurant Domenico is getting in on the act, too, hosting a jazz quartet that play the likes of Miles Davis, Ella Fitzgerald and Billie Holiday. Rua Doutor Melo Alves 674, Jardim Paulista (3037 7323/domenicoristorante.com.br). Cover none as of August 2013.

BRADO

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With a commendable attitude towards promoting the arts, Brado sponsors theatre productions, hosts the occasional art exhibition, and transforms its diminutive front terrace into a stage for the jazz trio, Le Serges, playing their own blend of Brazilian-infused French jazz, on Thursday nights. This is one for warmer nights, when the restaurant pushes back the sliding terrace doors to maximise its diners’ acoustic pleasure. Rua Joaquim Antunes 381, Pinheiros (3061 9293/bradorestaurante.com.br).

Cover none. See Eating Out for our feature review.

Saturday VERÍSSIMO

Everything at this Brooklin bar pays homage to Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo, from the quotes peppering the napkins to the names of the imaginative drinks and tapas-style sharing dishes.

Saturday afternoons featuring feijoada (pork-and-bean stew) and choro music are followed by live jazz from 8pm. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar.com.br). Cover R$7. See Bar listings.

BLÚ BISTRÔ

Serving up decent bistro classics such as French onion soup (sopa de cebola gratinada, R$25) and steak tartare (R$38), this cosy Perdizes eatery has a certain kitsch-meets-quirky charm, with an interior featuring street lamps, shuttered windows and a tiny upstairs balcony. The latter comprises the stage for a jazz trio – acoustic guitar, double bass and trumpet – that plays from Wednesdays through Saturdays, from 9pm. Rua Monte Alegre 591, Perdizes (3871 9296/blubistro.com.br). Cover R$9 (optional).

Sunday PRESS IMAGE

PARIBAR

BALCONY VIEW Add some charm to your jazz dinner at Blú

Poached egg with mushrooms and a muffin (R$18.90) and US-style pancakes (R$9.80) join the old-timers like eggs Benedict (R$25.90) on the new à la carte Sunday brunch menu at the classic boho hangout, Paribar. It’s not the food, however, but the setting, on a leafy square in the heart of downtown São Paulo, that make this worth the trip, now with the added bonus of a changing roster of jazz trios and quartets (11am-2pm), soothing the late-rising, Saturday night party crowd. Praça Dom José Gaspar 42, Centro (3237 0771/paribar.com.br). Cover none.

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JAZZ FESTIVALS

Dynamic duo A pair of festivals converges in São Paulo this month, kicking the city’s jazz scene up a notch into a new stratosphere with an ensemble of jazz greats like McCoy Tyner, Lonnie Smith, and soul sensation Trombone Shorty

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GRAY MATTER The US singer features at Jazz na Fabrica

SÃO PAULO’S JAZZ SCENE gets an added boost between the months of August and September. In addition to regular nights at jazz clubs and bars, the city plays host to two major festivals.

The first is part of a decade-long cultural programme known as the ‘cultural mission’ of New Orleans in São Paulo, which has brought many dozens of fine jazz and blues musicians to the city.

This year, the Bourbon Street Fest, sponsored

by Bourbon Street, one of the city’s best venues for blues, soul and jazz (see p.18), presents its 11th edition with free opening (18 August) and closing (25 August) shows at Parque Ibirapuera, and a line-up that has the rhythm of Soul Train. Take, for example, trombonist and trumpeter sensation Troy ‘Trombone Shorty’ Andrews, who plays at the opening party at 7pm. Just 27 years old and with rock-star appeal, the New Orleans musician has played on five continents, performing from his Grammy-nominated album For True (2010).

When he’s on top form, his shows become gripping displays of jazz, soul and rock.

And rock seems to set the tone for the New Orleans festival this year, as well. In keeping with the tradition that transforms the festival’s final shows into a great catharsis, the Bourbon Street Fest closes the event with Soul Rebels, a brass band that boasts shows with Metallica, Arcade Fire and Green Day on its résumé.

Not be outdone, Jazz na Fábrica will celebrate jazz and its influences within the beloved brick walls of SESC Pompeia. This year offers the best

and most comprehensive programme since Jazz na Fábrica’s debut in 2011. Artists from the most traditional lines of jazz, soul and R&B and jazz-influenced world music, especially from Brazil, in addition to those offering up a sampling of experimentalism and avant-garde, will perform there from 1 August to 1 September.

‘Geographic diversity is something that we wanted to maintain this year,’ says curator and

‘We’re interested in the way jazz has absorbed other influences’ producer Thiago Freire, also responsible for the 2013 line-up. ‘We’re interested in the way jazz has been absorbed, and has absorbed other influences,’ he says, noting the participation of names such as Cameroonian bassist, singer, songwriter Richard Bona (17-18 August), who will play an intimate repertoire that references Latin jazz, African pop and French cabaret, as well as the Franco-Swiss quartet No Square (16 August), with its electric and nocturnal brand of jazz.

Another treat this year for traditional jazz fans is the chance to hear legends like the organist ‘Doctor’ Lonnie Smith (31 August and 1 September), a maestro of the Hammond B-3, who can

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BRASS TACKS Troy Andrews electrifies Bourbon Street Fest

take the most common standards to immeasurably higher levels in his live performances.

Local musicians like pianist and composer João Donato (24-25 August), winner of the Grammy for Best Latin Jazz Album for Sambolero (2010), and trombonist and composer Raul de Souza (8 August), playing jazz, samba and choro, serve as Brazilian representatives at the festival, which also promotes educational events for audiences.

Check out the schedule of the workshops ‘Será que dá Jazz?’ (21, 28 August), with open discussions (in Portuguese) about the interplay of jazz with Brazilian music and the nature of jazz festivals in Latin America.

Macy Gray (Choperia, 23-24 August), who has played four times for paulistano crowds, sings jazz versions of pop hits, accompanied by a big band led by American saxophonist David Murray. After touring Europe and the USA, the show, with arrangements created especially for Gray, should easily rev up the Brazilian audience, who are very familiar with her biggest hits, like ‘When I See You’ and ‘I Try’, which have been heard on the soundtracks of some of Brazil's most popular soap operas.

Bourbon Street Fest is from 18 to 25 August, Parque Do Ibirapuera, Events Arena, Gate 10, from 4pm FREE 19-24 August, Bourbon Street, from 9pm. Prices R$65-$95.

Jazz Na Fábrica is from 1 August to 1 September at SESC Pompeia, Rua Clelia 93, Pompéia (3871 7700/sescsp.org.br). Prices R$10-$50.

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés

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Eating Out Bars & Cafés

Chocolate drops The Toblerone mousse (R$19) at the Pinheiros newcomer, Barteco

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Eating Out Take five... gourmet bars

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Look east Partners at Minato

Eat my crust The ‘carta’ thin-crust pizza (R$31), with Parma ham and a drizzle of balsamic and honey, at Forquilha

price blocks – petiscos (snacks) are either R$14 or R$19, while all main dishes are R$39 – punters can let their whim rather than their budget guide them. Even the wine list is conveniently priced this way, with bottles at either R$69 or R$99.

Caipirinhas get a contemporary makeover here, shaken up with herbs and spices – go for the lychee caipirinha with basil (R$16).

Cocktails raise the bar further – the Campeche blends cashew, lychee, lima da persia, chilli and mint (R$38). On warm evenings, a table outside on the pavement makes for good people watching.

At the opposite end of Rua dos Pinheiros, Minato Izakaya (Rua dos Pinheiros 1308, Pinheiros, 3814 8065, Facebook: Minato Izakaya) is the city’s latest izakaya – a very Japanese take on the gastropub theme, and traditional stomping ground for post-work crowds, alternating between rounds of saké and hot dishes.

Here at the minuscule, low-lit Minota, arrive early to find a perch on the row of stools that flanks each

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A bucket of cold beers and a bowl of salty peanuts simply won’t cut the mustard these days when it comes to a good watering hole.

Serving up ever more gourmet eats – from oysters to steak tartare and upscale salads – a bar is no longer a busy bar if its kitchen isn’t also tickling our tastebuds.

Eating out in bars is certainly no novelty in São Paulo. Botecos have long been the go-to places for hearty Saturday lunches of feijoada (pork-and-bean stew). And some of our favourites places for dinner – Bar da Dona Onça and Bottagallo (see Bar listings), to name just two – call themselves bars, despite pasta-laden platters topping tables at both. With ever more bars sliding towards restaurant territory, we’re keeping tabs on the latest ones to open with gourmet appeal.

Taking an upscale approach to traditional boteco food, the bright and cheery Barteco (Rua dos Pinheiros 220, Pinheiros, 2619 2880) is a two-storey newcomer to the gourmet strip, Rua dos Pinheiros.

With a chef who has worked in top São Paulo restaurants including Kaá (see Restaurant listings), this is restaurant-quality food at bar prices.

Start off with a round of Tuscan sausage croquettes or slow-roasted pork chops, served with a spicy, sweet and sour sauce. With the menu conveniently grouped into

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For laid-back dining, head to one of the city’s new bars, where the dishes share centre stage with the drinks, says Catherine Balston

Italian animation A young crowd tucks into the Italian fare at Forquilha side of the bar. ‘I tried to create a little piece of Japan in São Paulo,’ explains one of the owners, Fabio Koyama. ‘After five years working in izakayas in Japan, I’ve tried to incorporate as many authentic elements as possible – there are no tables, the counter is at the heart of

the place, each dish serves just one.’

When it comes to ordering, follow the lead of your neighbours, or be guided by the chef as to what’s best on the menu that day. The food here – unlike at most izakayas – also includes sushi and sashimi. To drink, keep it strictly saké – Minato

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Crunch time Pork ribs in a raspberry sauce with Chinese buns (bottom), at bar.

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Madalena, 3097 9353), due to open in early September. Diverging from their winning classic Rio botequim formula, tipified by bow-tied waiters and tiled floors, Mundial is more bar than boteco, all wood, concrete and glass inside, leading out to a large terrace. One thing Mundial does share with its siblings, however, is its focus on good food, and in line with the bar’s name (‘worldwide’), you can expect to satisfy a craving for curry and hamburgers, and nurture a new one for hot, savoury pastries from far-flung corners of the globe: classic Brazilian deep-fried pastéis, Japanese guioza, Indian samosas, Argentinian empanadas and Jewish varenikes.

Over in Jardins, bar. (Rua Joaquim Antunes 248, Jardim Paulistano, 3061 3810, barbar.com.br) is setting itself conspicuously apart from its restaurant neighbours, and not just in name. Going big on cocktails, there are over forty libations on the menu, with the barman game for shaking up any classic that’s not listed.

Upstairs becomes a dancefloor, as the live jazz on Wednesdays and groove on Thursdays get the glitzy crowd going. On the menu, expect unusual combinations like pork ribs with a raspberry sauce (R$43), and ‘lychee surprise’ (R$23) – a surprise indeed, and we’re not convinced it’ll be an altogether pleasant one, in the form of lychees stuffed with cream cheese and wasabi.

Food & Drink

serves around ten sakés imported from Japan – a measure costs from R$17 to R$43, or a small 300ml bottle between R$36 and R$71.

From one gourmet strip to another one in the making, the brand new Forquilha (Rua Vupabussu 347, Pinheiros, 2371 7981) joins a burgeoning brigade of bars and restaurants on the west side of Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima.

Coupling an informal bar vibe with an Italian menu, Forquilha’s central feature (and a handy heating device for wintry evenings) is a wood-fired oven, from which thin-crust pizzas emerge steaming alongside pasta dishes like the Mamadi lasagne (R$36) – with ham, mozzarella, provolone, parmesan and tomato sauce. The lasagne is circulated on a trolley and doled out in generous portions at the table. Desserts even get the wood-fired finish, like the frutas de lenha (R$18) – fruits baked with a touch of honey and served with mascarpone. To drink, wine is a good bet, with sixty bottles on the menu and six available by the glass from the self-service Enomatic wine dispensing machines.

In nearby Vila Madalena, the four Altman brothers – owners of three of the neighbourhood’s most enduring upmarket botecos, namely Genésio, Filial e Genial (see Bar listings) are adding a fourth string to their bow – Mundial (Rua Girassol 354, Vila

Cornered On warm evenings, grab a pavement table at the new Barteco and make your order a Campeche (right) with cachaça, cashew, lychee and lima da persia

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Food & Drink

Reviews

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Tartar&Co

Raw emotion Chef Erick Jacquin’s eatery is devoted to the delights of tartare

Stick to what they do best – the tartare – at this funky newcomer

When is tartare not tartare? How about when it’s made with tuna or salmon? Or diced-up beetroot or profiteroles? Stretching the notion of tartare – a simple classic of

finely chopped raw beef, raw egg yolk and various seasonings – into unrecognisable new forms, this seven-month-old venture is sure to polarise; irritating the purists, delighting the adventurous and perplexing those for whom raw meat is inedible until it’s had at the very least a flash in the pan.

We had high hopes for Tartar&Co – the French restaurant La Brasserie Erick Jacquin, in Itaim, serves one of the best steak tartares we’ve had in São Paulo, and the eponymous chef is one of the owners here.

They’re gunning for a clubby vibe, with mirrored columns, exposed concrete shot through with reds and blacks, and a DJ mixing the pop-rock soundtrack. It would be ideal for a warm-up to a group night out if it weren’t for the small, round tables which are unconducive for being pushed together. But living up to its name, the tartare certainly didn’t disappoint.

As with any dish that involves little or no cooking, the key is all in the ingredients and the preparation.

The classic steak tartare (R$39) was rich and perfectly seasoned, properly chopped rather than minced, and served on a striking piece of slate with a handful of leaves, and some fries that let the dish down with their lack of crunch. Other hits were the salmon and tuna tartares (R$39 and R$46 respectively), also served with salad.

You can order the same trio as ‘tartines’, served with foie gras (salmon R$22; beef R$22; tuna R$48)

and a slice of whole-wheat bread from upmarket bakery Le Pain Quotidien, though the delicately flavoured fish tartares were overpowered by the somewhat bitter bread. The more daring can try culinary mash-ups like the ‘couleurs de Brésil’ (R$47) – raw salmon with guacamole, tomatoes, peas and roasted pupunha (palm fruit).

It’s not all about raw food, however. There are steaks, grilled fish dishes and risottos under the ‘bistronomia’ section of the menu, though it’s not the restaurant’s forte. We tried an unexceptional grilled tuna steak with chilli sauce (R$47.50), and a tough fraldinha (flank steak, R$38.50).

Don’t miss the cocktails – the dry martini (R$22-$27) was perfectly chilled and packed a punch, while the tequila cocktail, with orange juice, Cointreau and black pepper (R$22-$27) was dangerously moreish. Catherine Balston Avenida Pedroso de Morais 1003, Pinheiros (3031 1020/tartarandco. com). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6pm-12.30am Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 6pm-1am Fri; 12.30pm1am Sat; 1.30-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$47-R$61.

Fun, reasonably priced, globalised food in a lively, inviting setting

Young, buzzy and inviting, Brado welcomes you in, sits you down, surprises you with its unconventional menu, gets you a little giddy with decent Malbec for under R$50 a bottle, and sends you on your way, happy, well-fed and not feeling out of pocket. In short, it’s our kind of place.

The colourful, open-plan space spanning the ground floor and yard of a 1950s white-washed brick house charms by day, with sunlight shining through the vines on the yard’s glass roof, and enchants by night, when legions of hanging candles are lit.

The menu – a fun, broadsheetsized affair, packed with arty illustrations – is eclectic, to say the least. Fish korma sits alongside the likes of chimichurri steak and wok-fried chicken. Brado describes it as ‘food with a conscience’, with buzzwords like ‘local’ and ‘seasonal’ peppering their website. The menu

changes twice a year, winter and summer, though with more than twenty possible mains, the menu feels a bit big to be wholly seasonal, while ingredients like salmon – imported from Chile – rack up the food miles.

But maybe we’re just sore at only spotting the free filtered water option once our waiter had opened and poured six bottles of mineral water.

Eco-credentials aside, what Brado’s menu is all about is fun, vibrant and reasonably priced food. Foams feature here and there without being pretentious – more of a playful approach to comfort food than a beginner’s attempt at contemporary cuisine. Our pork ribs (R$42), slow-roasted and tender, came with a sweet, not-quite-stickyenough molasses coating, toasted manioc flour farofa, the boiled root veg mandioquinha, and a zingy lime foam. Other highlights were the fantastically crunchy batatas bravas (R$20) – potato wedges smothered in aioli and chilli sauce. Less gratifying was the lamb dish, parmentier de

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Brado

Foam party Brado’s brownie with coffee ice cream and passion fruit foam

cordeiro (R$40), whose layers of pesto brocolli and mashed potato were crying out for some sauce or gravy.

Whatever you do, leave room for one of the beautifully-presented desserts – we loved the chocolate brownie with intense coffee ice cream and a sour squirt of passion

fruit foam (R$16). Catherine Balston Rua Joaquim Antunes 381, Pinheiros (3061 9293/bradorestaurante.com. br). Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon6pm Sun. Main courses R$22-$45; lunch R$22-35; couvert R$6.

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Food & Drink

Restaurant listings How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes.

We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

Go local Caminhos do Brasil

We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro GREEK Acrópoles You can imagine

Acrópoles landing a minor part in a Woody Allen movie, or a cameo role in Seinfeld as the quintessential familyowned neighbourhood joint. Today, word is out that the food is good and paulistanos from all over town flock here, spilling onto the pavement outside and drinking draught beer as they wait patiently for a table to come free. In fact, weekends can get uncomfortably packed despite the outmoded downtown location. The decor is beyond faded, with wonky photos of crumbling temples, and the veteran owners look like they might have had a hand in building the original Acrópolis. The steaming kitchen rolls out Greek classics such as moussaka and baked lamb, along with some nods to Italian classics. Nothing’s spectacular – but it’s good, solid, home-made stuff. Rua da Graça 364, Bom Retiro (3223 4386/ restauranteacropoles.com.br). Open noon-11pm daily. Main courses R$30$60; couvert R$25-$45. BARGAIN

ITALIAN Cantina e Pizzaria Piolin A

true survivor on Baixo Augusta, where it once lived a solitary life in the midst of sex clubs, Piolin is a cheap and cheerful Italian spot where everyone, it seems, is a regular. That might have something to do with its long-standing popularity with theatre-land’s grafters – the house sponsors local performances, whose casts eat half price. Utterly unpretentious, the place has been open for 40 years under the guidance

Consolação & Higienópolis AMERICAN 210 Diner Done out in the style of a classic American diner, albeit a swish, upgraded one, 210 Diner has quickly become a go-to spot in Higienópolis for those in search of a hearty slice of Americana. We’d consider the mushroom-flecked macaroni cheese as a possible side order for our last-ever meal – consider, we said; and the tuna-melt sandwich ain’t half bad either. Burgers are a good choice too – get us a piggie burger while you’re in there, will you? It’s hunky and chargrilled, and topped with deboned pork ribs in barbecue sauce. Rua Pará 210, Higienópolis (3661 1219/210diner.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 7-11.30pm Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10.45pm Sun. Main courses R$16$52; lunch R$27-$49.

Marcio Shaffer/PRESS IMAGE

NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

spending a little time walking round the neighbourhood by day (be careful in the area after nightfall) to enjoy the small flower market nearby, and to get a flavour of the way São Paulo was before the wreckers’ balls took over. Largo do Arouche 346, Centro (3331 6283/ lacasserole.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight TueFri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$38.50-$72.50; lunch R$42-$52; couvert R$10-$14.

Showcasing artisanal products and the finest local ingredients is the commendable aim of the Caminhos do Brasil series of gourmet dinners. The first venue to act as host is the casual, low-lit bar-restaurant Casa de Maria Madalena, where dishes include the shimeji, cheeseand-rocket-stuffed tapioca (see photo), and a homage to the north of Brazil in the risotto with wild manioc root tucupi, flowering herb jambu and grilled freshwater fish tambaqui. Each course will be served to the sound of live jazz, and even the wines are strictly local, all hailing from vineyards in the south of Brazil. 8pm, 28 August at Casa de Maria Madalena, Rua Inácio Pereira da Rocha 87, Vila Madalena. Tickets R$125 (includes wine), sold via foodpass.com.br. For more details, see j.mp/TOSP_cdbr. of José Alves de Godoy, known to all as Mosquito. Try his tried and tested invention – lasagna alla romanesca, with white sauce, peas, ham and mushrooms, and live it up with the luvvies. Rua Augusta 311, Consolação (3256 9356/ cantinaepizzariapiolin.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1.30am Mon-Fri; noon5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; noon-2am Sun. Main courses R$41-$68 (for two); lunch R$17.50; couvert R$12.50. BARGAIN

FRENCH La Casserole It first opened

in 1954, and since then little has changed in this frozen-in-time bistro – which is no bad thing. The service is friendly and charming, and the food is good, solid, bourgeois cooking. The menu doesn’t pander or dumb down, though – there are classics like tripes à la mode de Caen and kidneys in beaujolais wine, alongside well cooked lamb and the tried-and-tested coq au vin. It’s worth

ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom fettuccine is one example of why Carlota wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy shrimp with parma ham risotto. The restaurant’s recreation of the classic Brazilian dessert known as Romeo and Juliet elevates a simple dessert to an exquisite guava soufflé in a queijo Catupiry (Brazilian cream cheese) sauce. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/carlota.com.br). Open 7pmmidnight Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$73; couvert R$11.

FRENCH Ici Bistrô This chic, classically French restaurant has won considerable acclaim since its 2002 opening. The appetisers includes the duo de lula panée, crisp and wonderfully spicy squid, although the modest portion is an appetite-whetting trick (long in use by the purveyors of haute-French cuisine). The sesame-seed-encrusted tuna steak is supremely tender and well flavoured, and the desserts deserve equal praise, especially the icy profiteroles and

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Food & Drink

the signature pain perdu – a heavenly slice of caramelised French toast served with a dollop of pear compote bathed in double cream. Rua Pará 36, Higienópolis (3259 6896/icibistro.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Fri; 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$43-$113; lunch R$46$56; couvert R$8.90.

in question is one Baboo, Machado’s it is in Bahia. But the beer is cold and late Rottweiler. Baboo is reproduced in the food is hot, so relax and switch off kitschy sculpture form by a number of that São Paulo stopwatch: for the next local artists in the narrow, whimsical hour or so, you’re in Bahia. Rua Martim space. Soak up the eclectic, sensory Francisco 529/533, Santa Cecília (3668 overload decor as you browse the menu 6222/rotadoacaraje.com.br). Metrô 3, of creative burgers and simple bistro Santa Cecília. Open noon-11.30pm fare with a twist, like filet mignon Tue-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses with wasabi, ginger and rosemary R$54-$115 (for two).

(R$49), or salmon tweaked with a tart CONTEMPORARY Sal Gastronomia raspberry vinaigrette (R$54). Another From the outside, the black façade pleasant surprise, beyond the looks more like the entrance sophisticated dining at to a deviant dungeon than 4am, are the wines a fine dining experience. by the glass, which Venture round the back, you can try before and grab a seat in the you buy. Rua da courtyard – a space that Consolação 3193, the restaurant shares Jardim Paulista with cutting edge Galeria (2506 7386/ Vermelho – or inside rexrestaurante.com. elho rm e V where the narrow space br). Open 8pm-4am Galeria e Art would be claustrophobic Mon-Sat; 6pm-2am Se were it not for the bustle Sun. Main courses of the kitchen seen R$28-$55; couvert R$6.50. behind a glass wall. The gnocchi BRAZILIAN Rota do Acarajé They do were excellent, in a rich, tomato and a delicious acarajé here – a bean-paste lamb sauce, and the cupim – a cheap patty in to which you stuff vatapá cut from the hump of the zebu cow, (shrimp paste), prawns, and lashings of which can be tough – was served semichilli – which come conveniently minishredded and wholly delicious. This is sized for sharing as a starter. For mains, good eating that is easy on the pocket try the Bahian moqueca – a spicy fish or too, right down to the wine menu with prawn stew with coconut milk, enriched its simple sauvignon blancs. Rua Minas with a rainbow of tropical flavours. The Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3151 3085/ no-frills decor and pavement tables all salgastronomia.com.br). Open noongive the place an authentically unrefined 3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-3pm, Bahian feel – as does the friendly 8.30pm-midnight Sat. Main courses service, which is as agonisingly slow as R$38-$68; couvert R$6-$12.

FRENCH La Tartine You can’t go wrong with friendly La Tartine for an informal bite to eat with friends. This small bistro has three cosy rooms: two on the ground floor and one upstairs, where you can also settle into one of the sofas while you wait – although don’t be surprised to find a queue forming down the stairs at weekends. The menu is small and reasonably priced, featuring traditional French fare such as quiche and salad, steak au poivre and coq au vin. Bon appétit. Rua Fernando Albuquerque 267, Consolação (3259 2090). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7.30pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$24-$38. BARGAIN

IN THE AREA

INDIAN Madhu In a city as cosmopolitan as São Paulo, it’s a surprise to find so few options for food from the Indian subcontinent. So it’s an even bigger surprise to find a fastfood Indian restaurant that not only serves damn good curry, but serves it in combos featuring a top-notch array of side dishes. Chapatis come as standard, but there are tough choices to be made: which chutney? Rice, or flat appam rice-bread? Samosa or kofta?

The easy bit is the bill – you can have the lot with change from a R$20 note.

Rua Augusta 1422, Consolação (3262 5535/madhurestaurante.com.br). Open noon-10pm Mon-Wed; noon-11.30pm Thu; noon-midnight Fri; 1pm-1am Sat; 1-10.30pm Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$12.90-$24.90.

Meal deal Restaurant Week

ECLECTIC Mestiço A grand dame of

CONTEMPORARY Rex Restaurante Few things warm the heart more than a tale of one man and his dog. In the case of Rex, the funky late-night supper club from the chef Cassio Machado, the dog

down and dirty at Sujinho is in the small hours of the morning before it shuts at 5am, when you’ll find meat-hungry punters tucking in to big hunks of picanha and espeto misto (mixed grilled meats). This traditional bisteca is still known to many old-school paulistanos as ‘Bar das Putas’ (the whores’ bar) for its clientele, who would come to relax after work back in the ’70s and ’80s, when Consolação was a place to pick up prostitutes. These days Sujinho has smartened up its image considerably.

This, the original restaurant – there are now three of them, plus a hamburger joint – has a roof terrace on the third floor, where by day you can watch the hubbub of Rua da Consolação below and graze on free torresmo (pork scratchings) and caldinho de feijão (bean soup) whilst you wait for a table. Rua da Consolação 2078, Consolação (3231 1299/sujinho.com.br).

Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.30am-5am daily. Main courses R$30.25-$78.75 (for two); couvert R$9. No credit cards.

Other locations Rua da Consolação at 2063 and 2068 (3231 1299); Avenida Ipiranga 1058, República (3229 9986).

Lapa, Perdizes, Vila Leopoldina & Barra Funda PERUVIAN Killa The food at this amiable local eatery is not just Peruvian, but novoandina – ‘new Andean’. Peruvian cuisine is increasingly important and the novoandina concept is to mix pre-Hispanic cooking techniques with other elements like European cooking.

Here at Killa, the emphasis is on Peru’s wonderful signature dish: the raw fish salad, ceviche. And it’s delicious, with lightly-flavoured, delicate flakes of fish gently bathed in citric flavours. Our only criticism? The small portions, which might leave customers with a big appetite still hungry after lunch. Killa recently moved to a new, bigger space just three blocks down the road from its original home. Rua Padre Chico 324 (08551 8511/killa.com.br). Open 7.3011.30pm Tue-Thu; 7.30pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$39.

Thai Namga Satisfying a craving for

Rafael Wainberg/PRESS IMAGE

fusion restaurants, GLS-friendly Mestiço continues to update itself by regularly changing the artwork and trying out new menu items, while sticking to its guns of good cooking. The water feature at the back and the table layout might be a tad dated, but the food continues to be a draw. Order the krathong thong – crunchy pastry with spicy Thai chicken and corn, with an extra sprinkle of chilli dust – and then a veggie or Thai curry for mains, and you’ll get decent portions served with steaming jasmine rice. Chocoholics will love the brownies – ask the waiter to load up on the sweet, custardy chocolate sauce. And as a finishing touch, the bill shouldn’t break the bank – a bonus in a city where restaurant prices can occasionally seem tantamount to daylight robbery.

Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 277, Consolação (3256 3165/mestico.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.45ammidnight Mon; 11.45am-1am Tue-Thu; 11.45am-2am Fri, Sat; 11.45ammidnight Sun. Main courses R$34$72.50; lunch R$41-$44.

BARBECUE Sujinho The best time to get

The discount dining fortnight Restaurant Week will for the first time be setting a theme – ‘flowers and fruits’ – for its set three-course lunch and dinner menus, hopefully injecting a touch of creativity into an event that has lost some of its sparkle in recent editions.

See our tips on the best restaurants at j.mp/TOSP_ restweek. 2-9 Sep, with an exclusive week from 26 Aug for Mastercard Black card holders. For the full list of menus and restaurants, go to restaurantweek.com.br.

Prices R$34.90 (lunch); R$47.90 (dinner).

Thai food in São Paulo is no easy task, so when we heard about this progeny of the much-loved takeaway Tele-Thai, we were in there like a shot. The trickling fountains, candles and ambient music might give it the slight air of a spa, but it’s all about the food here, which, while neither wholly authentic nor generously proportioned, is delicious. Thai classics like fragrant green curry, light and crunchy pad Thai and khao soi kai – a mild curry noodle soup – are on the menu alongside more inventive dishes like the succulent pork-filled squid. For a sensory overload, order the miang kham – build-your-own bundles of Japanese spinach filled with lemon, chillies, coconut and nuts. Round things off with the chef’s dessert, khanom kluay, whose black rice and coconut ice-cream combo is a sensation in both texture and taste. Rua Apiacás 92, Perdizes (2507 1774/namga.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$23-$39.

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seat at the counter, order the combinado do chef (R$80) and prepare to be immersed in the Brazilian-Japanese creations that sushi purists would call sacrilege; others, a damn good contemporary twist. The sashimi here is fabulously fresh. We tried haro hot – shimeji mushrooms wrapped inside crunchy spring-roll batter, followed by the pantanal – salmon uramaki topped with deep fried kale. Be prepared to arrive with an open mind, and leave with a belly swelling to sumo-sized proportions. Rua Desembargador do Vale 438, Perdizes (3554 3433/ zendosushi.com.br). Open 7-11pm Tue; noon-3pm; 7-11pm Wed, Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Friday; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; 1-4pm Sun. Main courses set for one from R$44.90; lunch R$29.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros NEW ECLECTIC Beato Opened at an increasingly gourmet end of Rua dos Pinheiros, Beato is a cool, colourful spot that strikes a careful balance between hip design and good food.

From the lust green foliage on one of the ceilings upstairs to the supersized white chairs, it’s an odd hybrid of furniture showroom and Alice in Wonderland. The food isn’t quite as creative as the décor – this is a simple, unfussy menu, peppered with the odd

attention-grabbing dish. We ordered the prime rib (R$45) – a tender pork rib served with a rosemary risotto.

The tagliarini ao limone with crunchy Parma ham (R$39) was perfectly al dente, though the promised ham was mostly notable by its absence. All in all, expect tasty, good-looking dishes albeit with bijou portion sizes that may leave bigger appetites a bit unsated.

Rua dos Pinheiros 174, Pinheiros (2538 8107/beatorestaurante.com.br).

Open noon-3.30pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 1-7pm, 8pm-12:30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$48; couvert R$6.

ITALIAN Buttina Dine alfresco under

half a dozen jabuticaba trees, or inside this gorgeous converted vintage house, where the tree boughs are allowed to wind freely through the airy space. Chef Filomena Chiarella has gained legions of followers for her authentic recipes, learned in her native Basilicata, in Italy’s balmy South. Chiarella’s signature dishes include artisanal gnocchi and the delicious jabuticaba ice-cream (R$10), served while the delicious purple fruits are in season, usually in September and October, and a bit after as well. Rua João Moura 976, Pinheiros (3083 5991/buttina.com. br). Open noon-2.30pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-2.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Fri; 1pm-12.30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$20.80-$49.80; lunch R$31.50.

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BRAZILIAN Consulado Mineiro Step into this creaky yellow house and you may feel like a João Guimarães Rosa character (Brazil’s most famous modernist novelist was from the state of Minas Gerais). The homey atmosphere, wooden tables and paintings of the Minas countryside evoke well-preserved colonial towns, like Ouro Preto. As is the custom in Minas, all the plates are intended for two, but really, a third person could easily partake in this hearty, reasonably-priced meal. Try the tutu especial or the tutu à Mineira, the most famous dishes from this huge central state. The former comes with beans, sausage and eggs, pork cutlets and mandioca (manioc) with banana, a couve salad (chopped and steamed kale, with garlic and butter), and rice.

If you’re in the mood for home cooking as opposed to a refined meal, this is the place. Praça Benedito Calixto 74, Pinheiros (3088 6055/3064 3882/ consuladomineiro.com.br). Open noonmidnight Tue-Fri; noon-8pm Sat; noon11pm Sun. Main courses R$54-$71 for two; lunch R$20.90-$28.

CHILEAN El Guatón You may be greeted and seated here by a portly moustachioed man with specs: that will be Señor Guatón. He’s from Chile, and has been running the front of house of this husband-and-wife neighbourhood restaurant for nearly 15 years. His wife, Dona Elba, keeps regulars happy with deliciously simple homemade Chilean food: ceviche (raw white fish with lime,

6:29 PM

PROMOVENDO AS TRADIÇÕES. INOVANDO NAS SOLUÇÕES.

onion and coriander), baked empanadas, and the comforting pastel de choclos – a chicken pie topped with a gratinated corn puree – are our favourites. Look out when Señor Guatón, with a twinkle in his eye, offers you one of his fiery homemade chilli oils. Rua Artur de Azevedo 906, Pinheiros (3085 9466/ elguaton.com). Open noon-3pm, 5pm1am Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$75; lunch R$13.50-$25.

Food & Drink

Japanese Zendô Head straight for a

BRAZILIAN Feijoada da Lana Most paulistanos have a favourite place to eat feijoada – the heavy stew of smoked and sun-dried meats that’s brewed up in cauldrons with black beans and served with rice, kale, orange slices and farofa (toasted manioc flour). Lana, a journalist by trade, offers her hugely popular version inside a small but charming Vila Madalena house, where the rich stew might not be as elaborate as some of the more expensive varieties, but where smiling service and hearty goodness are guaranteed. Settle in for a long Saturday afternoon session, and wallow in a delightful food-induced paralysis. Rua Aspicuelta 421, Vila Madalena (3814 9191). Open noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-5:30pm Sat, Sun. Lunch midweek feijoada R$30; weekend feijoada and unlimited caipirinhas R$55.

VEGETARIAN Goshala Rustic heavy woods, from the front door to the tables and chairs inside, exude an understated quality from the get go at this recently

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JAPANESE Hideki Don’t let its rather

modest exterior, or its location on a busy party street, put you off: inside Hideki, the focus is on the freshest of fresh fish, served in a convivial, familyfriendly and decidedly non-trendy atmosphere. The sashimi and sushi are a cut above, albeit with prices to match, and the tempura is light, crispy perfection. The emphasis here is on quality rather than quantity, though the lunchtime buffet is a relatively economical way to sample Hideki’s delights. To drink go for saké, which is served in a masu – a square cup – with the chilled liquid spilling out over the sides. It’s all in the name of good luck, apparently. Rua dos Pinheiros 70, Pinheiros (3086 0685/hidekisushi.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sun. Prices sushi set for one from R$90.

Other locations Rua dos Imarés 542, Moema (5049 3224); Rua Treze de Maio 1050, Bela Vista (3283 1833).

BRAZILIAN Las Chicas Gourmet Garage Chefs Carla Pernambuco and Carolina Brandão, of restaurant Carlota fame, have turned their epicurean expertise to this smaller, more informal venture in Pinheiros. Las Chicas is an all-day eaterie in a converted garage, whose small space has been filled with bright colours and cutesy, feminine touches. Go for breakfast, lunch, a light evening bite or just a post-shoppingspree coffee (it’s a five-minute walk from the Rua Oscar Freire boutiques).

The lunch buffet may be pricey, but the quality is excellent, with interesting salads and hot dishes such as roast beef and sweet potato purée with orange.

Indulge a sweet tooth with a capuccino with doce de leite or one of the chocolate desserts, served in adorable, tiny tin mugs. Rua Oscar Freire 1607, Pinheiros (3063 0533/laschicas.net.br). Metrô 2, Clínicas. Open 9am-11pm Mon-Sat; 9am-6pm Sun. Main courses R$37$48; lunch R$45-$55.

FRENCH Le Jazz Brasserie A small French bistro with a big reputation, Le Jazz is packed, more often than not.

Having secured a table, we opted for the tabu de charcuterie starter (R$38.50). Its deep, rich terrine de campagne (a pâté-like mix of meats) and magret fumé (smoked duck breast) were instant hits, as were the rillettes (pâté), torresmo (crunchy pork fat), and the variety of meats and pickles. If we’d left at this point, all would

Finger food Dinner in the dark

PRESS IMAGE

Food & Drink

opened veggie spot. An internal courtyard affords more seating and looks like a promising alfresco dining spot away from the noisy street. The menu is for the most part Brazilian, with an Indian twist – aromatic and gently spicy dishes sit alongside contemporary Brazilian fare. We started with cheese and palm-fruit samosas and a baked Camembert, served with relish and a chapati. For mains, the tangy, aromatic paneer curry was a highlight.

Look out, too, for the dish of the day (R$22 or R$26 including dessert), chalked up on the blackboard and published on the website each day. Rua dos Pinheiros 267, Pinheiros (3063 0367/goshala.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7-10pm Thu-Sat. Main courses R$22-$23; lunch R$22$26.

PERUVIAN Suri Ceviche takes centre

stage at this contemporary Pinheiros restaurant, with ten different varieties on the menu. But this isn’t ordinary ceviche. Here, it’s been given a thoroughly modern makeover, with varying degrees of success. The clasico with corvina (white fish), onion, lime and coriander is a safe bet. The chifa, with prawn, squid and corvina is tender and tasty. But the tierra y mar, with tuna, sour cream and bacon, is an unusual and borderline unpleasant combo. The portions are generous, so going with a group means more options to try, whilst solo diners can perch at the bar and watch the chefs in action. Rua Mateus Grou 488, Pinheiros (3034 1763/suri.com.br).

Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$65; couvert R$10.

BRAZILIAN Vila das Meninas Step

With blindfolds on and senses sharpened, intrepid diners at the itinerant Jantar no Escuro (‘dinner in the dark’) evenings are in for one of the city’s more unusual epicurean experiences. Each dinner follows a theme, devised by the Jantar no Escuro team together with the host restaurant’s chef. Next up is a gourmet twist on countryside cuisine, eaten with no cutlery, at the Pinheiros restaurant, Beato (see listings). 8.30pm, 28 August. Price R$150 with wine. Email contato@ atelienoescuro.com.br to reserve. See j.mp/TOSP_dark for more details. have been tudo de bom. But on we went.

Perhaps thanks to a flustered kitchen in the Friday night rush, the entrecôte (R$38.50) came sadly overcooked; and the tagine de cordeiro (lamb tagine, R$5) – well, the chef must be in love, as they say round here. Oversalted, its sublime touches were lost in translation. Possibly we were unlucky, given those superb starters, but Le Jazz left these particular diners singing les bleus. Rua dos Pinheiros 254, Pinheiros (2359 8141/lejazz.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-3.30pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$21-$43; couvert R$5.50.

ECLECTIC Marcelino Pan y Vino The

team behind the excellent Lola Bistrot recently opened this no-frills restaurant, overlooking the Orleans jazz bar, and its large but unfussy menu includes hot dogs, burgers, wraps and the like. This isn’t fast food, though (and we’re not just talking about the painfully slow service) – the sauces are all homemade and meats are roasted in the wood-fired oven, which looms large in the openplan kitchen. Go for one of the gourmet wraps and sandwiches, or one of the sharing platters (small R$39, medium R$48), with a veggie version available as well. The fresh fruit juices are delicious and come served in a mini carafe with a straw. Rua Girassol 451, Pinheiros (3034 0461/marcelinopanyvino.com. br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 1-11pm Sun. Main courses R$16.20-$34; lunch R$19.90; couvert R$3.50.

CONTEMPORARY Rothko Artist Diego Belda has turned his creative hand to cuisine at his restaurant Rothko, which opened in early 2011. Drawing inspiration from a number of cuisines, each dish is a beautiful composition of flavours and vibrant colours. Order a selection of small dishes – bocadilhos – or go for a less creative but equally tasty main course. The downsides?

Slow service, and a fair few items missing from the menu. Teething troubles, we hope. Rua Wisard 88, Vila Madalena (3032 4295). Open 6pm-midnight Wed-Fri, noon-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$43.

ECLECTIC Santa Gula Santa Gula is best experienced at night, when around 200 candles are glowing and the multilevel environment gains a charming and bucolic air. Walk down the candle-lit alleyway that leads from the road to the main house, and you`ll enter a dream space. At night, it’s ideal for intimate gatherings and popular with families on weekends. The menu varies from traditional French and Italian-inspired dishes to Asian and Brazilian fusion.

Everything you see is for sale here – if you like one of the rustic sculptures, check the price tag. Rua Fidalga 340, Vila Madalena (3812 7815/santagula.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-12.45am Tue-Thu; noon-3.30pm, 8pm-1.45am Fri; noon-4.45pm, 8pm-1.45am Sat; noon4.45pm Sun. Main courses R$21-$70; lunch R$32; couvert R$11.

through the discreet entrance to find a scattering of tables set under a large tree hung with lanterns, in the back yard of a beautifully converted house. An illustrated menu the size of a paperback reveals soulful dictums and the story behind the restaurant, as well as a selection of dishes that pay homage to the owners’ homeland – Minas Gerais. The confit de frango com jiló caramelizado is a good pick – tender chicken served with the famously bitter fruit jiló, transformed into delightfully thick, caramelised slices. Finish your meal up with a fork-fight over a round of doces caseiros (homemade sweets) with queijo minas (Minas Gerais cheese). Rua Padre Carvalho 139, Pinheiros (3037 7773/viladasmeninas. com). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-12.30am Thu-Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$60; lunch R$38.

ASIAN Yakissoba da Vila This

informal little eaterie, with chopstick and bowl stencils covering the outside wall, is ideal for picking up a stir fry or ordering a delivery. It’s popular for not just its tasty food but also for the reasonable prices – the 33 varieties of yakissoba start from R$8.50. If indecision is your middle name, then go straight for the special yakissoba with beef, shrimp, chicken and mushroom, and leave the tough decision-making to which type of fresh fruit juice to have. Rua Fradique Coutinho 695, Pinheiros (3032 2785). Open noon-10pm Mon- Thu; noon-11pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$8.50-$25. Cash and debit cards only.

Jardins VEGETARIAN Apfel It’s food with a

conscience at Apfel, whose philosophy goes beyond just vegetarianism: the restaurant’s cultural agenda includes hosting evening walks around the city’s historic downtown area, Centro, as well as funding small theatre groups. Set in a delightful ivy-covered townhouse in Jardins, with a second location downtown, Apfel’s service is efficient and its friendly and the seasonallychanging menu spot on, featuring delights such as garlic mushrooms on wholemeal toast, and cauliflower gratin.

But take it from us: when the nhoque

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BRAZILIAN Bolinha Set up in 1946 by taxi driver Affonso Paulillo, and now run by his two sons, Bolinha is all about feijoada. The service is top notch (as you’d hope, given the hefty prices), and when prompted, the waiters will happily tell you more about the humble slave origins of this hearty black-bean-and-pork stew, guiding you through choices including the classic, old-fashioned version of the dish – nose-to-tail eating, Brazilian style – a more modern version, without the scary bits; and a ‘light’ version, in case you don’t have the luxury of a post-meal nap. Avenida Cidade Jardim 53, Jardim Europa (3061 2010/bolinha.com.br).

Open 11am-5pm Mon; 11am-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses R$52-$97.

caipirinha, artfully decorated with the in São Paulo, but many would argue head of the caju fruit (the unfamiliar, that it’s worth the cost. Chef Alex inedible cover of the cashew nut). The Atala, whose culinary prowess has gone mini acarajé appetiser is a treat in global, has plucked the best of regional which you assemble shrimp, avocado, dishes from across the country at this pumpkin and the delicious hot sauce sister restaurant to D.O.M. Unusual and onion vinaigrette into a brilliant, local ingredients from the Amazon to self-made recreation of the classic the cerrado create some really unique Bahian sandwich. For a main course, tastes such as the surubim, a fresh try the abadejo grelhado com crosta water fish served with a lemongrass de baru (grilled haddock with a crust sauce and jambu – a lip-tingling of Brazilian baru nut), or the grilled green herb. Choose from two types pirarucu – the largest freshwater of moqueca – capixaba or the fish in the world. Finish spicier baiana. To complete off with a tasting of the experience, sit the plum or banana by the big kitchen cachaça – the sugarwindow to watch cane tipple here the chefs at work. reaches the level Rua Padre João of a fine cognac.

Manuel 1115, Reservations are Jardim Paulista A recommended.

LINHAD chicken-and- (3068 4444/ A G Rua Azevedo de dalvaedito. eekly ve samba Dito’s w li Amaral 70, Jardim com.br). Open Dalva e st comes with m, Sat. Paulista (3086 noon-3pm, 7pmrice fe . Midnight-3a too 3565/brasilagosto. midnight MonR$59 com.br). Open Thu; noonnoon-3pm, 7pm-1am 3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Thu; noon-5pm, 7pmFri; noon- 3pm, 1am Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. 7pm-3am Sat; noon-5pm Main courses R$46-$90; lunch R$44; Sun. Main courses R$42-$107; couvert R$8-$12. lunch R$55; couvert R$8-R$16.

BRAZILIAN Brasil a Gosto Ready for a taste of the Amazon? Chef Ana Luiza Trajano floats the finest ingredients of the jungle river to your table. Start your adventure by ordering the lovely strawberry and caju

BRAZILIAN Dalva e Dito When in Brazil, do as the Brazilians do with a daily dose of rice and beans. A taste of traditional Brazilian cooking at Dalva e Dito may just be the most expensive rice and beans you can eat

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BRAZILIAN D.O.M. D.O.M. is the fiefdom of tattooed celebrity chef Alex Atala, who absorbs molecular gastronomy tendencies and gives them a very Brazilian twist. The food is balanced and harmonious,

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particularly in the tasting menus, and the vegetarian version is served with carefully selected juices and fruit essences to provide contrasts of colours and textures. If you’re prone to passing out at the sight of large bills, try the lunchtime executive menu, which gives a beautifully presented spin on homemade Brazilian food, using crunchy, toasted manioc farofa with beans, rice and chicken or John Dory. It sounds simple, but Atala takes it to a different level, earning the restaurant the number six ranking in the San Pellegrino world’s 50 best restaurants award, in 2013. Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardim Paulista (3088 0761/ domrestaurante.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$107-$145; lunch R$59; couvert R$20.

Food & Drink

de mandioquinha recheado com queijo de cabra (sweet parsnip gnocchi with goat’s cheese filling) is on the menu, you’d be a fool to resist. Rua Bela Cintra 1343, Jardim Paulista (3062 3727/ apfel.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista. Open 11.30am-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm, 7.30-11.30pm Sat; 11.30am-4pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$38; lunch R$24.

Other location Rua Dom José de Barros 99, Centro (3256 7909).

STEAKHOUSE A Figueira Rubaiyat

The number of architecturally significant and gastronomically superb restaurants in São Paulo is astounding.

Even so, finding gentrified country dining a block away from Rua Oscar Freire is a surprise. A huge 130-yearold fig tree dominates the dining area of A Figueira Rubaiyat, lending it an intimate, romantic air. The restaurant is famed for serving some of the best beef in the city and for catering to paulistano power couples and the financial elite.

The appetiser of carpaccio di funghi in truffle oil is a must, as are the pães de queijo. A main course mainstay is the

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ITALIAN Girarrosto A jaw-dropping

R$10 million was allegedly spent on this immense Italian eatery, which opened in early 2012 in the spot formerly home to one of the city’s best-loved bars, Pandoro. After a series of disappointing early reviews, the restaurant’s fortunes have been on the up since the arrival of Italian chef Salvatore Loi, who spent 13 years at the forefront of the Fasano before his move to Girarrosto.

Loi takes perfection to extremes. You’ll understand what we mean when you try the bigoli (thick strands of pasta, shaped using a special machine) with duck and juniper sauce (R$54). One bite and you’ll realise that you’re eating the same spectacular pasta you’d eat at the Fasano – but for less. Avenida Cidade Jardim 60, Jardim Europa (3062 6000/ girarrosto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm, 7pmmidnight Sun (pizza only). Main courses R$41-R$-69; couvert R$12.50.

BURGER Lanchonete da Cidade This is one of the best of São Paulo’s many ’50s-style diners: the originals, of course, are the city’s thousands of humble street-corner lanchonetes.

Here at the slightly more upmarket Lanchonete da Cidade, it’s all about the burgers, with the succulent Bom Bom most in demand – a 220g churrascostyle burger with homemade tomato sauce. For vegetarians, the delicious mushroom-and-grilled-vegetable burger is a treat. Lanchonete’s french fries are also good, but paulistanos swear by the batatas rústicas – crispy fried discs of crunchy potato scattered with rosemary and cloves of sweet, juicy garlic. Alameda Tietê 110, Jardim Paulista (3086 3399/lanchonetedacidade. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main courses R$14.50-$41. Other locations Rua Amauri 334, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Higienópolis, Avenida Higienópolis 674, Higienópolis; Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Magalães de Castro 12.000, Morumbi; Avenida Macuco 355, Moema.

bistro-style fries (possibly São Paulo’s best); and there’s a manageable wine list that’s heavy on France and South America. The space, decked out in sexy reds and blood-red velvet curtains, feels slightly overdone, as you might expect from the fashionista/architect team that owns the place. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 17, Jardim Europa (3034 5324/bistroentrecote.com.br) Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon-11pm Sun. Main course R$58; couvert R$4.80.

BRAZILIAN Maní Tucked away on a classy, quiet street in Jardins, Maní manages to be contemporary and sophisticated and yet artfully unpretentious. Whether you choose a table inside or out, you’re assured of an excellent meal amid the natural, earthy ambience of one of São Paulo’s most popular and innovative restaurants.

The modern cuisine is served here with flair, and chefs Daniel Redondo and Helena Rizzo deserve all the praise they’ve received for their creative, wide-ranging menu. Try their awardwinning fish entrée served with tucupi and bananas; or the roast beef in a lapsang souchong crust. Reservations strongly recommended. Rua Joaquim Antunes 210, Jardim Paulistano (3062 7458/manimanioca.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon3pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Fri; 1-4pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$68; lunch R$35; couvert R$13-$15.

FUSION/ASIAN Marakuthai

Marakuthai started out as a relaxed, upscale restaurant on Ilhabela before its beachside success spawned this urban sister. And though the much-pr aised restaurant’s name might suggest a straight up-and-down Thai joint, in fact Indian, Moroccan and Brazilian also get a look-in on the menu with dishes like the khiri khiri starter – prawn balls in a cashew crust with a saké and chilli sauce (R$24). The presentation is flawless, from the green tea in tall glass jugs with mint, herbs and citrus fruits to the food, thoughtfully laid out on attractive platters: all in all, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

Nevertheless, we’d love to see a touch more oomph to the menu. Alameda Itu 1618, Jardim Paulista (3062 FRENCH L’Entrecôte 7556/ d’Olivier You won’t marakuthai. have any trouble com.br).

MIS ) om S do deciding what to Metrô 2, Imagem e de eu us (M eat at the restaurant Consolação.

See Art formally known as Open 8pmL’Entrecôte de Ma midnight MonTante – all gastronomic Wed; noon-3pm, dilemmas cease once you 8pm-midnight Thu; walk through the door, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-4pm, because celebrity chef Olivier Anquier 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$29serves just one dish: an entrecôte in a $79. greenish sauce, supposedly his aunt’s FRENCH Marcel The lone weak point secret recipe. We can’t help wondering of this excellent restaurant is its location what has happened to the formerly inside a tasteless block of short-let flats. eponymous aunt; but whatever her fate, But get past that and you’ll be presented the solo star of the show, a traditional with a set of unforgettable dishes, French rib eye steak, is good. It’s superbly executed by chef Raphael served with a pile of all-you-can-eat

IN THE AREA

New in town Fusion food

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Food & Drink

sumptuous picanha sumus – premium top sirloin. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (3087 1399/rubaiyat. com.br). Open noon-12.30am MonThu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$74-$235; couvert R$23.50.

Seafood given the Korean, Japanese, French or Italian treatment is the totally unique approach to dining at the new Fisherman’s Table. ‘A mix of everything that Jae and I have eaten around the world, and which we miss here in São Paulo,’ is how Ryan Kim, one half of the duo behind this venture, describes it. That fusion plays out in dishes like the misso mussels (see photo, R$48), with mussels cooked in saké and miso, with toasted bread. The décor works the same industrial chic look – think exposed bricks and wood – of the pair’s first São Paulo restaurant, the smash-hit burger joint Butcher’s Market. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 554, Itaim Bibi (3167 3605).

Despirite. A starter of frogs’ legs in garlic cream is a case in point; as are the impeccable soufflés – whether they be of the smoky seafood variety, or a sweet dessert soufflé of cupuaçu – just some of the unusual dishes that make this fine restaurant such a memorable experience.

Rua da Consolação 3555, Jardim Paulista (3064 3089/marcelrestaurante. com.br). Open noon-2.30pm, 7pmmidnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$107; lunch R$42-$48; couvert R$7.80-$12.80.

ITALIAN Margherita Allow yourself

to be drawn to the brightly-lit, inviting aspect of this pizzeria, just off Avenida Paulista. Inside, red-and-white checked tablecloths are reminiscent of a

traditional Italian pizzeria, though the menu also includes Brazilian touches such as requeijão (cream cheese) toppings. The namesake pizza is a must, while slightly more adventurous diners might like to try the Campesina, featuring aubergine, parmesan cheese and olives. Alameda Tiête 255, Jardim Paulista (2714 3000/margherita. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6.30pm-1.30am Sun-Thu; 6.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses R$42-$59.

ITALIAN Mercearia do Conde A

tumble down the rabbit hole might – just might – prepare you for Mercearia do Conde. The restaurant’s ceiling groans under a collection of bewinged angels and pink, wand-bearing fairies that gently rotate overhead, while

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MEXICAN Obá There is a serious lack of decent Mexican food in São Paulo – no doubt because of the serious lack of Mexicans. Restaurateur Hugo Delgado solves both problems: he’s a living, breathing chilango from Mexico City and, though sometimes hampered by inaccessibility to certain ingredients, he does a fabulous job on the portion of Obá’s menu that’s dedicated to his homeland – the carnitas (braised pork tacos), refried beans, guacamole and margaritas. The kitchen also sends out an array of Thai, Italian and Brazilian dishes to the convivial tables in this colourfully converted Jardins home;

but though pretty much everything is good here, with such a gap in the city for truly good Mexican restaurants, it only leaves us wondering ¿por qué?

Rua Melo Alves 205, Jardim Paulista (3086 4774/ obarestaurante.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-4.30pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$39.90-$67; lunch R$21.90.

FRENCH Paris 6 The ‘6’ in the name is for the Parisian 6th arrondissement, encompassing Saint-Germain-desPrés, and the ornate decoration and low-lit interior of Paris 6 is a conspicuous replica of that trés chic French neighbourhood. But Brazilian touches have snuck their way in here, too, from the big-screen TV showing futebol to the minor celebrities whose names adorn some of the dishes on the menu. The food seems better some days than it does others, though the steak frites and the house red are reliably good, and the almond trout – truite aux amandes – with mash is a buttery delight. The real draw here, though, is that the restaurant stays open (and busy) 24 hours a day. And the clientele? Beautiful enough, for the most part, to be halfway to making their way onto the menu themselves.

Rua Haddock Lobo 1240, Jardim Paulista (3085 1595/paris6.com.br).

Open 24 hours daily. Main courses R$36-$79; lunch R$39-$49; couvert R$12.

INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down classic restaurants. It’s centrally located – a handy place for lunch if you’re on Avenida Paulista – and decorated brightly and stylishly, if simply, with all-round windows and a circular bar in the middle. Spot is an enduring Sampa favourite – so come prepared to wait, over a drink at the bar or outside on the terrace, for a table in the thick of the action, in amongst the chattering diners.

On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty, though it came sadly unaccompanied – follow our lead and order some of the delicious roasted vegetables and smooth, creamy mash as a side dish. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação. Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71.

AMERICAN St. Louis Decked out in

a smart, kitsch Americana style, this small, unpretentious US-style burger joint is a comfortable, well-managed spot that doesn’t try to be too many things to too many people. The result?

A damn good burger that’s priced a touch more fairly than many other comparable São Paulo burgers. Fans of poivre will genuflect at the kitchen door after devouring the excellent Pepper Crust burger (R$28.50) – 220g

of pepper-charred beef with Swiss cheese, grilled onions, crunchy potato sticks, pickles and Dijon mayo. Paired with the excellent fries and chased with raspberry lemonade, it’s a combo that teeters precariously on the brink of shock and awe. Rua Batataes 242, Jardim Paulista (3051 3435/ stlouisburger.com.br). Open 6.3010.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6.30-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 6.30-11.30pm Sat; 6.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$18-$57.

Food & Drink

the plates are gaily and wantonly mismatched. The food can be quite good, but is occasionally patchy and errs a little on the conventional side. The chicken pie has long been a favourite of ours; but last time, pluckier, we went for duck with rice ‘old Lisbon style’, which came with shredded duck, cooked pear pieces and a dusting of garam masala – good and homely, but not revving up the taste buds too much. The desserts are mainly unexciting – we’ve tried several, and most of them can comfortably be given a big, pink raspberry. Rua Joaquim Antunes 217, Jardim Paulistano (3081 7204/ merceariadoconde.com.br). Open noon4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noonmidnight Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pm1am Sat; 12.30-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$85; lunch R$45.

JAPANESE Sushiguen Sharp-dressed

Asian businessmen, slick paulistanos and the odd tourist fill the rows of this singular sushi restaurant. A capsule of oriental perfection, Sushiguen is the perfect escape from the bustling thoroughfare of nearby Avenida Paulista. Serving up the finest fish for more than 35 years, sushi man Shimizu is clearly doing something right – and we can attest to it. Try the tirashi (R$40$77), a fish salad in which several types of fish – including salmon, tuna and sea urchins – are placed with geometric precision atop a bed of rice in a bowl.

Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 2367, Jardim Paulista (3289 5566). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11pm Mon-Sat. Prices two sushi pieces from R$10-$17.50; lunch menu R$24-R$40.

JAPANESE Temakeria e Cia You certainly can order sushi at this tiny Japanese eaterie devoted to temaki

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Open from Monday to Maonday from 12pm to 2am

The complete and best Italian restaurant

(seaweed-wrapped cones of fresh fish, rice and other ingredients), but it wouldn’t be the wisest move. Instead, revel in the delicious temaki creations of chef Cássio Tanabe. Fire up your imagination with the ‘creative temaki’, which gives you free rein to concoct your own combo of ingredients. Rua Oscar Freire 507, Jardim Paulista (3062 3920/temakeriaecia.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noonmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices temakis $8-$19.50. Other locations citywide.

raisins, prunes, peppers, mozzarella and cashew nuts. On our Thursday night visit, we were among just a handful of diners. Perhaps paulistanos know where to get pizza that’s just as good, for less, elsewhere. Either way, roll up your sleeves – it’s faithful to the original, so you won’t find any cutlery here – and dig in. Rua Doutor Mario Ferraz 351, Itaim Bibi (3079 3599/ataldapizza.com.br).

Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 7pm1am Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Large pizza R$75.

BARBECUE Vento Haragano

The Iglesias family has over the years mastered the art of raising cattle.

Their excellent home-reared beef is served in restaurants that combine austerity with an elegant modernity, and impeccable service. The branches on Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and Alameda Santos are both favourites for business meetings. To see and be seen, however, park up among the beautiful people under the giant fig tree of the sister restaurant, A Figueira Rubaiyat, in Jardins. International jetsetters will also find a Rubaiyat restaurant in Madrid as well as Buenos Aires.

It’s big business – the whole portfolio was bought by an investment fund for a whopping $59.5 million in 2012.

Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2954, Itaim Bibi (3165 8888/rubaiyat.com. br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-12.30am Fri, Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$76-$215. Other locations Alameda Santos 86, Paraíso (3170 5100)

The display of perfectly-charred carcasses laid across an open flame at the entrance to this gaúcho-style set-price barbecue (rodízio), hint at the restaurant’s ‘go big or go home’ approach. It’s pricier than many a churrascaria, but Vento Haragano faithfully delivers, most memorably with its garlic-laced picanha, the unusual wild boar served with jabuticaba jelly, and a ridiculously good grilled mozzarella. The traditional gaúcho outfits worn by the staff smack slightly of Disneyland, and there’s no lack of tourists to complete the picture; but trust us: the meat is so good here, you won’t mind a jot. Avenida Rebouças 1001, Jardim Paulista (3083 4265/ ventoharagano.com.br). Open 11.30am4pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 11.30ammidnight Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun..

Fixed price R$103.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia STEAKHOUSE 348 Parilla Porteña At

Trattoria, Buffet, Wine Cellar, Bar and Whisky Club

weekends, you’ll spot this steakhouse at least a block away thanks to the crowds milling about outside, drinking cold beers while they wait for a table.

This joint is Argentinian by name and Argentinian by nature, down to the myriad authentic cuts of meat on the menu. The jury is out on whether the vacio (also known as the ‘corte especial 348’) reigns supreme over the bife de chorizo, but get a group together (each order feeds at least two) and you can decide for yourself. Team your beef – which comes as bloody as you want it – with the papa tasso – crunchy fried potato slices. The pork ribs are the dish to go for as an alternative to beef, and the empanadas are said to be the best in São Paulo. Exposed roof beams, wicker chairs, rustic wooden tables and plants lend this former neighbourhood bungalow a real homely, traditional feel. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 348, Vila Olímpia (3849 0348/ restaurante384.com.br). Open noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noonmidnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$59.50-$100. Other location Rua Bahia 364, Higienópolis (4306 0348).

ITALIAN A Tal da Pizza It started down

Free transfers from the city’s main hotels

Rua Treze de Maio, 848 Bela Vista - São Paulo/SP Phone: 11 2842.9620 www.villatavola.com.br

a dirt track – an out-of-town, family-run pizzeria with no cutlery, no waiters, and a cult following among SP’s elite. A Tal da Pizza’s city progeny is an altogether different setup, and its Louis XV-style chairs and velvet sofas are a far cry from country simplicity. The pizza is good, including adventurous combos like the Scaramouche, with aubergine,

midnight Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$128; lunch R$66-$92; couvert R$8-$12.

BRAZILIAN Beth Cozinha de Estar Beth is in her fifties and is almost always behind the self-service counter, helping her diners decide on the best homecooked option. Catering mostly to suits who work in Itaim Bibi, this buffet joint offers a selection of salads and dressings, fish, chicken and beef creations, and comforting sides such as spinach or corn in white sauce, kale, or grilled vegetables and bananas.

Wednesdays and Saturdays feature the traditional feijoada, and a light version with the pork and black beans served separately. If you have room for dessert, you won’t be disappointed by the flan or the coconut mousse. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1061, Itaim Bibi (3073 0354/bethcozinha.com.br). Open noon3.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat. Prices fixed-price buffet R$52-$74.

STEAKHOUSE Baby Beef Rubaiyat

BARBECUE Barbacoa Priced on a par with Fogo do Chão, the city’s other top rodízio (all-you-can-eat) meat-a-thon, Barbacoa isn’t cheap, but its range and quality of both cuts and creatures, including fish and wild boar, is outstanding. While many churrascarias have all the ambience of an airport lounge, the gentlemen’s club-esque atmosphere here, with an abundance of dark wood and leather armchairs, adds to the sense of self-indulgence, and the bar is a cosy spot for a pre-dinner caipirinha. Expect a feast of seriously good flesh; elasticated waistbands recommended. Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 65, Itaim Bibi (3168 5522/ barbacoa.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-6pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Fixed price R$94.90. Other locations D&D Shopping, Avenida das Nações Unidas 12,555, Brooklin (3042 9244); Morumbi Shopping, Avenida Roque Petroni Jr. 1089, Morumbi (5181 6898).

FRENCH/ITALIAN Bar des Arts It’s a feast for all the senses here, from the postcard perfection of this old mansion with its manicured garden and the gentle gurgle of water in the marble fountain to the delectable food. Go for lunch on a sunny day, when you can choose between the excellent lunch buffet and à la carte options, or at night when the candlelit setting makes for a magical date. The menu features mostly French and Italian cuisine, with the odd touch of Brazilian. If you’re just stopping by for a drink, the appetiser menu is well worth a look too. Rua Pedro Humberto 9, Itaim Bibi (3074 6363/bardesarts.com.br). Open noon-

AMERICAN Butcher’s Market

Chalkboard walls, phonograph lampshades and meatpacking brica-brac bring a slice of the Big Apple to the bustling Butcher’s Market, where carefully prepared gastronomic Americana – spicy chicken wings, toasted marshmallow milkshakes, pork

Critics’ choice Minas Gerais

PRESS IMAGE

Food & Drink

A space for Italian cuisine and culture

Consulado Mineiro A home from home for hungry Mineiros (natives of the neighbouring state of Minas Gerais), Consulado Mineiro serves up hearty Mineiro cooking in oversized portions.

O Compadre Exposed beams, wagon wheels and hundreds of cachaças are just a few of the rustic, countryside touches at this Minas-themed buffet.

Vila das Meninas Both hailing from rural Minas, the two chef-owners at this charming little eatery take classic ingredients from Mineiro country kitchens and transform them into attractive, homely dishes.

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a kam lu wantan (R$36) – a colourful jumble of flavours, featuring morsels of duck, chicken and pork flash fried with veggies and slivers of peach, topped with a tamarind sauce and a crown of light fried won tons. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 513, Itaim Bibi (4324 7868/chifawok.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 8-11pm Sat. Main courses R$20-$48; lunch R$30.

CONTEMPORARY Clos de Tapas Opened in January, the kitchen at Clos de Tapas carries some serious weight in the form of the collective experience and acclaim of its two chefs, Spain’s Raul Jimenez and the Brazilian Ligia Karazawa. The way to go here is the eight-course VEGETARIAN Cachoeira tasting menu (R$185), which Tropical Nostalgic rivals anything to which for a college dining Michelin might attach experience? This one of its coveted stars. self-service Give yourself up to the restaurant offers experience and journey great, simple, through a meal that’s e rs u o t-c vegetarian food studded with standouts, he eigh menu T at a set price in like the queijo coalho tasting 85 a cafeteria-style served with a spectrum R$1 environment. Sample of tastes (spicy with grac all you want, choosing de bode peppers, and sour between a variety of salads, with lime foam), or carvão de hot dishes and desserts, for less bacalhau (salt cod with an almond than R$20 a sitting, or go for the threeand squid ink coating). Along the way, course option. The other two branches your other senses are tickled too in serve fish and chicken dishes. Rua moments that include the arrival of João Cachoeira 275, Itaim Bibi (3167 a bowl of moss, brought to life with 5211/cachoeiratropical.com.br). Open dry ice to fill the table with the aroma 11am-3pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm of a damp forest. Rua Domingos Sat, Sun. Main courses R$18-$20.

Fernandes 548, Vila Nova Conceiçao Other location Avenida São Gabriel (3045 2154/closdetapas.com.br). Open 300 (3884 8868), Rua Gaivota 1330, noon-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Thu; Moema (5542 9561). BARGAIN noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main CONTEMPORARY Cantaloup The courses R$15-$32; lunch R$48; contemporary architect Arthur Casas, couvert R$12. the name behind restaurants Kosushi ITALIAN Due Cuochi Cucina and Kaá, has transformed this former Positively buzzing with energy, this bakery into an impressive restaurant Itaim Bibi mainstay is arguably the space. Step through the 10-footfinest Italian restaurant in town. The high wooden door to a glass-roofed space is lined with dozens of windows, winter garden, and then on into the and is popular with both families and dining room, where the high-ceiling, business people. The most affordable exposed beams, white-washed brick way to try this eaterie is to come for the and starched white tablecloths create delicious prix fixe lunch (R$51) Monday a sophisticated, clean, industrial to Friday, which includes a light snack, look. The food, with roots in French an appetiser, a main course and a and Italian cuisine, is given a welldessert. If you’re choosing from the a presented, modern twist, and the wine la carte menu, try the tagliolini ao sugo cellar, on display in the restaurant, with shrimp – all the pastas are homehas 400 labels from 10 countries. Don’t made. While the restaurant highly leave without having coffee or you’ll recommends its beefsteak florentine, miss the chance to taste the sublime the meat can be a bit chewy. Lunch petits fours. Rua Manuel Guedes 474, reservations are not accepted, so come Itaim Bibi (3078 3445/cantaloup.com. early, around 12.30pm at the latest, br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight to get a seat. Rua Manoel Guedes 93, Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Fri; Itaim Bibi (3078 8092/duecuochi.com.

7.30pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight courses R$39-$110; lunch R$61; Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; couvert R$9. noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm PERUVIAN Chifa Wok Of all possible Sun. Main courses R$35-$78; lunch Other fusion-food combinations, few feel as R$57; couvert R$13.50. location Shopping Cidade Jardim, right as the type practised in Lima’s Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, many ‘chifa’ restaurants, blending 3rd floor (3758 2731).

Chinese and Peruvian cuisine with artful simplicity. The pleasant, lowFRENCH/ITALIAN Kaá The newest key Chifa Wok specialises, as its name French-Italian addition to the scene suggests, in unpretentious dishes filled from celebrated chef Pascal Valero with fast-cooked, wok-fried goodies. is another of São Paulo’s exquisite You can’t go wrong with a classic arroz Amazonian retreats, designed by chaufa (R$30-$36) – fried rice with a architect Arthur Casas. The outside choice of meat or seafood. We went seating (with a retractable roof) is for the roast pork one to accompany

GO FOR

overlooked by a monumental wall covered by 7,000 tropical plants. (Kaá means ‘forest’ in the Tupi language.)

Valero, who came to Brazil in 2002 from France, has already headed two of the city’s finest establishments: Le Coq Hardy and the Eau restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Hotel. His signature dish is peixe do momento (fish of the moment), with mushrooms and truffle oil. For dessert, the chocolate fondue with coconut cream and bananas is a must. To get the full experience of rainforest elegance, a table outside must be reserved in advance. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 279, Vila Olímpia (3045 0043/kaarestaurante.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$68; lunch R$56; couvert R$13.

Mediterranean Di Bistrot Only the

most unobservant of diners will fail to notice the eclectic, and at times kitsch, decor as they step through the door at this Itaim restaurant. Think leopard print upholstery, cup-and-saucer chandeliers and a profusion of art. The eccentric personality of the original chef, Cassio Machado, is imprinted quite literally on the walls – the decor and showcase of paulistano art was created in homage to Brazilian artist Di Cavalcanti. The main attraction though is the outstanding food created by Mariana Fonseca, the new chef and owner, who has taken inspiration from Portugal and Greece, where she worked for many years. Be

transported straight to a Greek taverna with the outstanding polvo grelhado – grilled octopus with paprika. Don’t miss the chef’s signature dish – atum fresco – tender tuna served with a wasabi and mustard cream. Leave room for dessert: Fonseca’s creativity doesn’t stop at the mains. Try the terrine de goiabada (a guava sweet) with cheese sauce. Simply delicious. Rua Jacurici 27, Itaim Bibi (3079 9098/dibistrot.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm1am Sat. Main courses R$34-$58; lunch R$29.90; couvert R$12.

Food & Drink

ribs with hash browns – can be scarfed down at prices just high enough to stave off addiction. English-language menu items include the succulent mushroom burger – a thick patty of grilled prime beef smothered with melted mozzarella and tasty, seasoned mushrooms – and artery-clogging but oh-so-good cheese chilli fries (aka chilli cheese fries in the USA). If you’re not the type to be kept waiting, the less-crowded lunchtime seating might be your best bet. It’ll also give you the rest of the day to work off those happily ingested calories.

Rua Bandeira Paulista 164, Itaim Bibi (2367 1043/butchersmarket.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat. Main courses R$23-$43; lunch R$30.

MEXICAN Hecho en Mexico Few

Mexican restaurants here in São Paulo are worthy of the Meh-hee-coe in their names – but this is one of them. Hecho en Mexico is a simple and tasty taquería where you can get a good feed for under R$20. Team a cold bottle of Dos Equis with the totopos – homemade nachos served with salsa or (slightly bland) guacamole. Or try one of the ‘Pe Efes’, basic midday meals that come in lucha libre wrestler-sized portions with meat, rice, refried beans, guacamole and an optional fried egg (R$15.90-$17.90).

We’ve yet to scope out the territory here after dark, but reckon the margarita machine and brightly-painted open courtyard at the back should make this the perfect setting for a cheap and cheerful night out. Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 538, Itaim Bibi (3073 0833/hechoenmexico.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$15.90-17.90. BARGAIN

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PERUVIAN La Mar Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently.

Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu. Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce. The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth. Rua Tabapuã 1410, Itaim Bibi (3073 1213/lamarcebicheria.com).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; noon4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$60; lunch R$42.

JAPANESE Nagayama Proudly serving

some of the tenderest, freshest fish in town, the thoroughly authentic Nagayama isn’t cheap; but it’s a pure delight, from the cosy, comfortable space and the welcoming service to the virtuoso sushi and sashimi. The delicious sushi and sashimi set for two (R$124) is easily enough for three; and try, too, the exquisite baterá – it’s a pressed rice disc jewelled with chives and dotted with tiny crunches of salmon roe, topped with even crunchier tempura (R$16 for two). Brilliant.

Rua Bandeira Paulista 355 and 369, Itaim Bibi (3079 7553/nagayama. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight TueThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-12.30am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-12.30am Sat. Main courses R$37-$72.50; lunch R$45.50; Other location couvert R$6.

Rua da Consolação 3397, Jardim Paulista (3064 0110).

AMERICAN P.J. Clarke’s Longing for the Big Apple? You can track down a karaoke bar in Liberdade and butcher a few stanzas of ‘New York, New York’, or hit this São Paulo clone of the famous Manhattan establishment once frequented by Frank Sinatra. The NYC original created the ‘Cadillac’ burger, which was not only a favourite of the Chairman of the Board but also of

Marilyn Monroe. PJ Clarke’s attempts to recreate (quite successfully) the postwar glory years sanctum of American authenticity, with tables draped in redchecked cloth – the old-style diner even had its chandeliers shipped over from New York. The ambience fits the home fries and the delicate onion rings perfectly. For dessert, the strawberry and raspberry cheesecake is exceptional, and short of flying 11 hours to Junior’s in Brooklyn, you won’t find anything else quite like it. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 568, Itaim Bibi (3078 2965/pjclarkes. com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; 9.30ammidnight Sun. Main courses R$26$47; lunch R$37. Other location Rua Oscar Freire 497, Jardim Paulista (2579 2765).

ARGENTINIAN Pobre Juan You could

put the expansion of this Buenos Airesinspired restaurant down to clever marketing, if it weren’t for the fact that the food here is seriously good. There are now four branches in São Paulo – the most charming being the one on the top of Shopping Cidade Jardim, with views out over the city – as well as in Campinas and Brasília. Don’t miss Pobre Juan’s eponymous steak – a juicy top layer from the strip loin. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 525, Vila Olímpia (3845 4965/pobrejuan.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$42.90-$84; couvert R13.90. Other locations Shopping Cidade Jardim (see Shopping listings); Rua Tupi 979, Higienópolis (3825 0917).

br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$41-$75; couvert R$9.

STEAKHOUSE Varanda Grill This

steakhouse took years to earn the almost unanimous approval it enjoys todays among the city’s restaurant critics. On Time Out São Paulo’s early visits, the service was affable but standards in the kitchen were careless, with steak served dry on two occasions. We finally reached red-meat nirvana, however, at Varanda’s new sibling inside the recently opened luxury shopping mall – JK Iguatemi.

The deliciously juicy steak and impeccably timed service were worthy of a champion. Rua General Mena Barreto 793, Itaim Bibi (3887 8870/ varandagrill.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Thu; noon-3.30pm, 7-11pm Fri, noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$52-$81.50; lunch R$84.50; couvert R$19.50. Other locationsShopping JK Iguatemi (see Shopping listings)

Ibirapuera & Moema ITALIAN Bráz We have heard it said that the pizza in São Paulo is so good, even the Italians are jealous. It’s a bold

statement, but if you’re prepared to give it any credence at all, Bráz is probably a good place in which to make up your own mind, having been voted the city’s best pizzeria seven times by Veja. A typical meal, at the original Moema joint or any of the three other locations, should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas.

There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu; but standouts include the Fosca (smoked ham, mozzarella and catupiry cheese) and the four-cheese Favorita, with taleggio, pecorino, caciocavallo and gorgonzola. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com.br). Open 6.30pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 6.30pm1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-12.30am Sun. Medium pizza R$45-$55.

Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090).

BARBECUE Costelaria Moema It’s all about ribs at this barbecue joint and the secret to its success lies in the engineering marvel tucked away in its kitchen. The tall ovens are specially designed to roast an entire side of beef ribs for forty hours at a low temperature. Gratification comes quicker, however: the ribs are

ASIAN Tantra Although the nightly entertainment here can’t be beaten – a belly dancer with an albino snake and a sword – we recommend coming here for lunch. This large warehouse, isolated in the heart of Vila Olímpia, has a fantastic Mongolian grill (R$29.90 for lunch on weekdays, and R$62.60 for dinner). Pick your ingredients wisely, and hope that your choices match up.

If you prefer a safer option, the limited menu offers a selection of pricier Asian and Pacific-inspired dishes. Rua Chilon 364, Vila Olímpia (3846 7112/ tantrarestaurante.com.br). Open noon3pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 6pm2am Fri; 1-5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$32-$56; lunch R$29.90.

ITALIAN Tre Bicchieri If cooking were a Shakespeare play, fish would be its Hamlet. Done right, the most difficult of the Bard’s works will slay audiences.

Done wrong, and it can lapse into pomp and absurdity. Tre Bicchieri, which opened in June, serves a delicious robalo – a rich, flaky sea bass – in a light crust with perfectly crisped vegetables. For dessert, a Tre Brûlée: three pots of crème brûlée in vanilla, pistachio and orange flavours. The orange was just a touch too sweet; the pistachio crème had just the right nutty tang, and the vanilla pud was creamy perfection – emblematic of a restaurant that doesn’t need to twist food into contortions to draw a crowd; that’s swanky without being ostentatious; and that does an excellent Hamlet without unnecessary drama. Rua General Mena Barreto 765, Itaim Bibi (3885 4004/trebicchieri.com.

Luna Garcia/PRESS IMAGE

Food & Drink

JAPANESE Kinoshita Improvisation is the key at this Japanese sensation.

Kinoshita practises a concept called Kappo cuisine: immaculately presented, unique creations prepared spontaneously by master sushi chef Tsuyoshi Murakami and his team.

After a hearty welcome, the maître d’ directs you to menu gems such as mini Nametaki mushrooms caramelised in lemon and Shoyu conserve, delicately served in a hollowed lime. Innovations such as scallops and cod roe served in a lime and orange juice, downed in a martini glass, are joys to sample – with the accompanying steep price, of course. Rua Jacques Félix 405, Vila Nova Conceição (3849 6940/ restaurantekinoshita.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$30-$75; lunch R$49-$68; couvert R$8.

Bag it The winter cheese menu at P.J. Clarke’s on Rua Oscar Freire includes this baguette with camembert, chicken and raspberry jam (R$33). Until 31 Aug.

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BRAZILIAN Sobaria It might seem

New in town Geiko-san

unusual to find soba noodles heading up the menu of a restaurant specialising in food from Mato Grosso do Sul. But soba is standard street food in cities like Campo Grande, where Japanese immigrants settled at the turn of the 20th century. Whatever their origin, the noodles are the star of the show here, served with strips of cooked egg, grated ginger and spring onions in a bowl of steaming, meaty broth (R$24-$28). Other specialities include the comforting sopa paraguaia (Paraguayan soup, R$20) – a paradoxically solid corn cake made with cheese and onion – and the tender though slightly over-salted cupim ao leite – strips of meat from the hump of the zebu cow – served with rice and manioc chips. Rua Áurea 343, Vila Mariana (5084 8014).

Open 10am-11pm Mon-Thu; 10ammidnight Fri-Sun. Main courses R$22BARGAIN $38; lunch R$17.90-$21.90.

MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively TexMex themed bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families.

The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheese-and-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos, accompanied by a fun, fairly lowbrow selection of cocktails. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday. Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/sisenor.com. br). Open noon-3pm; 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42. Other locations Citywide.

ITALIAN Cantina Roperto When

choosing a restaurant from a street chock-full of options like Bixiga’s 13 de Maio, the time-honoured trick of opting for the one with the longest queue is not one for the hungry. But for those willing to be patient, the huge portions of excellent pasta at this old-school classic are well worth the wait. At Sunday lunch, expect a roaringly full restaurant (and up to an hour’s wait); but once you’re seated, the good couvert and the poignant pictures of the oncesemi-famous on the walls should keep you entertained until the mains arrive.

Each pasta dish is plenty for two: give the spaghetti with homemade pesto or the carbonara a whirl, though nonBrazilian palates may find the penne alla puttanesca over-salted. Choose your wine with care: some of the Italian reds can be an unwelcomingly attention-grabbing part of the meal. Rua 13 de Maio 634, Bixiga (3288 2573/cantinaroperto.com. br). Open 11.30am-midnight Mon-Thu; 11.30-1am Fri, Sat; 11.30am-11.30pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$130 (for two); couvert R$7-$9.50.

CHINESE Chi Fu Just a quick hop

from Liberdade Metrô lies the recently renovated Chi Fu. The clientele, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date). There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephone-directorysized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best. The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap. Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698).

Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am-4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN

ITALIAN Speranza This is one of

Giuliana Nogueira/PRESS IMAGE

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana

Food & Drink

sliced up and served still smoking, in eight different cuts, including the spaguetinho and matambre. The simple but sizeable sides include fried polenta, fried plantain, rice, beans and salad.

Avenida dos Imarés 758, Moema (5096 3213/costelariamoema.com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm Mon, Tue; 11.30am11pm Wed-Sat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Fixed price R$51.90 (Mon, Tue); R$59.90 Wed-Sun.

A long counter lines one half of the ground floor of the new, two-storey Jardins restaurant Geiko-san, with big, colourful murals brightening the walls throughout.

Italy meets Japan is the unlikely philosophy behind the menu here. We’re talking meticulously presented dishes like seaweed tagliatelle with caviar and sesame seeds (R$28). A marriage made in heaven, or a shortlived affair? Time will tell. Rua Haddock Lobo 1416, Jardim Paulista (3061 0150).

STEAKHOUSE Dinho’s The star of the meaty menu at Dinho’s is the enormous US-style prime rib – all 700g of it, packed with flavour and an immense Fred Flintstone-style bone you can admire as a trophy of sorts, assuming you manage to eat it all.

The steakhouse, which was recently given a modernising makeover, draws a lunchtime crowd of top execs from the nearby Avenida Paulista thanks to its expansive buffet options. For a younger crowd, head to the former Mabella e Ton Ton in Itaim Bibi, owned by the same family and rebranded in 2012 as Dinho’s Steak House (Rua Jerônimo Da Veiga 153). Alameda Santos 45, Paraíso (3016-5333/dinhos. com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pmmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-3.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$58-$110; couvert R$18.

Other location Rua Jerônimo Veiga 153, Itaim Bibi (3079 1049).

JAPANESE Shin-Zushi It might be set on an isolated Paraíso corner away from Liberdade, São Paulo’s traditional Japanese neighbourhood, but ShinZushi still delights fans of Japanese food, and was awarded the best sushi in town by Estado de São Paulo’s demanding Paladar gastronomy magazine. The sushi is cut from top quality fish and it shows; while the rice dumpling, made from authentic Japanese grains, crumbles deliciously on the tongue. There’s also a good range of imported delicacies – if your wallet will stretch to it, try at least one toro tuna sushi – an unforgettable, if greasy, piece of tuna belly that’s difficult to find, even in sushi-centric Liberdade. Rua Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraíso (3889 8799). Metrô 1 or 2, Paraíso. Open 11.30am-2pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat. 6-10pm Sun. Prices two sushi pieces R$14; lunch R$28; couvert R$8.

the most famous pizzerias in the city, founded in the late-1950s in Bixiga, one of the city’s Italian neighbourhoods per definizione. Order a hunk of sausage bread as a starter, pending the arrival of the pizza of your dreams. Because take it from us: the pizza marinara DOC and the margherita caprese – made with an exquisite tomato sauce, all Italian ingredients and within the norms established by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana – are the kind of pizza you could find yourself dreaming of, once you’ve sampled one, for a very, very long time. Rua 13 de Maio 1004, Bela Vista (3288 8502/pizzaria.com.br). Open 6pm1.30am Mon-Fri; 6pm-2am Sat; 6pm1am Sun. Main courses R$42-$68.50.

Other location Avenida Sabiá 786, Moema (5051 1229).

STEAKHOUSE Templo da Carne Marcos Bassi If Brazil still had a monarchy, the late Marcos Bassi just might have been granted a knighthood for making butchery a noble craft.

Bassi’s near-encyclopaedic knowledge made him synonymous with top quality meat in São Paulo – he ran courses on the subject, and sold cuts of beef and other Bassi-branded gourmet products in top supermarkets across town. The restaurant that carries his name serves the signature dishes fraldinha (flank steak), as well as bom-bom (a cut taken from the heart of a rump steak). Rua Treze de Maio 668, Bela Vista (3805 4284/marcosbassi.com.br). Open noonmidnight Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$58-$78; couvert R$18.18.

JAPANESE Uo Katsu Once upon a time

it was a fishmongers; today, Uo Katsu is a restaurant offering delicious sashimi charged by weight, with the sushi priced by unit. One of Paraíso’s hidden gems, the place is simplicity itself, with communal tables and footstools for seats; but the fish is always fresh – and all for a very reasonable price. Leave a tip when you pay to hear them call ‘caixinha!’, at which point everyone behind the counter will thank you. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, so arrive early or be prepared to wait. Rua Manoel da Nóbrega 1180, Paraíso (3051 5855) Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Prices sashimi (per 100g) R$6-$20; sushi (per piece) BARGAIN R$1.80-$8.50.

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Food & Drink

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini

authentically nostalgic feel that many newer pizzerias try and fail to copy. The Castelões pizza, with handmade sausage and mozzarella, is recommended, as is the house margherita; but no matter which one you pick, rest assured that the dough will be light, the crust scorched and sensual, the tomato sauce packed with basil, and it’ll be topped off with cheese of impeccable quality.

Rua Jairo Góis 126, Brás (3229 0542).

Metrô 3, Brás. Open noon-4pm, 7pmmidnight daily. Main courses R$39$64; couvert R$9.

INDIAN Govinda It’s Krishna by way

of Lisboa at this classic dining spot, situated snugly in the middle of a residential area. The 30-year-old Govinda represents an interesting mixture of Luso-Brazilian architecture and Indian decor. The ceiling is supported by open wooden beams (in a former 19th-century life, the house was a grease-processing factory), while sumptuous sub-continent furniture occupies the various rooms.

The couvert is a great start for the meal; eight different sauces with the house bread. You can’t miss with classic Indian dishes – go for the lamb or chicken curries or one of the tandoori specials for best results. Rua Princesa Isabel 379, Brooklin (5092 4816/ govindarestaurante.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm 7pm-midnight Sat.; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$32.90-$66.90; lunch R$33.90; couvert R$17.90.

The South BARBECUE Fogo de Chão Brazil’s best-known barbecued meat franchise has three restaurants in São Paulo, plus branches in Brasília, Salvador, Belo Horizonte and across the USA. The owners are gaúchos, from Brazil’s South – the country’s cattle hotspot. So unlike some rodízios, Brazilian steak house restaurants, they don’t bother mucking up the menu with irrelevant sushi: just the best cuts of Brazilian meat, like picanha, fraldinha and maminha. Grab your pincers and select the bits you like the look of from the big chunks of deliciously salted flesh the waiters bring around. Note that Fogo has one of the most extensive wine lists in the city.

For dessert, try the chocolate mousse with port. Avenida Santo Amaro 6824,

VEGETARIAN Recanto Vegetariano

Overshadowed by skyscrapers along Avenida Berrini, this pleasant, allinclusive vegetarian buffet serves some of the best organic food in town.

Recanto Vegetariano exemplifies the energy of natural food lovers the world over: frustrated by the lack of fresh ingredients, these enterprising locals decided not only to open their own restaurant, but to also supply it with their very own homegrown organic vegetables – the owners even provide photographic proof of their agricultural prowess. Rua Flórida 1442, Brooklin (5506 8944/recantovegetariano.com.br).

Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; noon4pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$29. No credit cards.

Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé PIZZA Castelões This classic Italian

restaurant, located in one of the city’s traditional Italian neighbourhoods, was founded in 1924, and its dusty decor and antique pictures give it an

SPANISH Maripili Paulistanos in

search of authentic Spanish grub head straight for Maripili – a small, simple restaurant whose owner, chef and waiting staff all have Spanish roots.

Try a pintxo de tortilla and follow it up with a nice cup of espresso; then close your eyes and imagine you’re in Madrid – because this potato tortilla has all the volume, texture and moisture you’d find at any good Spanish diner. Maripili also serves a very good gazpacho and rabo de toro (oxtail), cooked in red wine. Rua Alexandre Dumas 1152, Santo Amaro (5181 4422/maripili.com.br). Open noon-5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$10-$34.

VEGETARIAN Moinho de Pedra Frustrated vegetarians will be in for a pleasant surprise at Tatiana Cardoso’s elegant restaurant. The word is out about her gourmet take on healthy veggie food, and the lunchtime queues form early. Cardoso trained in a number

New menu Clos de Tapas

peu reis/PRESS IMAGE

ITALIAN Vicolo Nostro Hidden amongst the gleaming corporate towers of Berrini, Vicolo Nostro is one of the few quality restaurants in the area that opens beyond lunchtime. The vast terracotta-coloured space, with creepers growing up the walls, is popular for power lunches and business dinners, but not exclusively so. Expect authentic Italian food: it won the Ospitalità Italiana seal of approval in 2011 for following the traditions of Italian cuisine to the letter. Start with the divine couvert of Italian breads, goat’s cheese and olives.

For mains, the chef’s recommendation of conger eel with a crab crust and black rice was impressive, though the cappelletti a little over-salted. It’s a touch on the pricey side, but if you’re good for it, the charm and good food make this an excellent choice for toasting that million-dollar contract. Rua Jataituba 29, Brooklin (5561 5287/vicolonostro. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$39-$105; lunch R$38-$56; couvert R$16.

Santo Amaro (5524 0500/fogodechao. com.br). Open noon-midnight MonSat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Fixed price R$103. Other locations Avenida dos Bandeirantes 538, Vila Olímpia (5505 0791); Avenida Moreira Guimarães 964, Moema (5056 1795); Travessa Casalbuono 120 (Shopping Center Norte), Vila Guilherme (2089 1736).

Solo at the helm of the contemporary restaurant Clos de Tapas since December, when her partner Raúl Jiménez García returned to his native Spain, chef Ligia Karazawa has relaunched the menu, with new tapas, starters and mains, as well as her own tasting menu, blending Brazilian influences with her memories of the years spent living and working in Spain (R$150, six courses). The grilled angus steak (see photo) is served with porcini mushrooms and a millefeuille made with the sweet root vegetable mandioquinha (R$71). See listings.

of vegetarian restaurants in San Francisco before opening her own place, where she combines creativity with seasonal ingredients. Head straight to the counter where you can choose from one of two daily specials – served with either salad or soup for R$35 or R$45 on Saturdays – or another main course option from the blackboard. White bean stews, grilled courgette tart, and mandioquinha (sweet parsnips) gnocchi with a fresh tomato sauce are just a few of the highlights. The creamy yoghurt dessert with honey and an organic red fruit sauce is a simple delight. Rua Francisco de Morais 227, Santo Amaro (5181 0581/moinhodepedrarestaurante. com.br). Open 8.30-11am, noon3.30pm Mon-Fri; 9-11am, noon-4pm Sat. Prices set menu R$35-$45.

The North BRAZILIAN Mocotó Serving up arguably the best Brazilian food in the city, Mocotó is a foodie’s delight.

Located in the anonymous mass of higgledy-piggledy houses in the far northeastern suburbs, what it takes to eat at Mocotó is time, both in getting there and waiting for a table; so come with patience and a hearty appetite.

The restaurant’s young chef, Rodrigo Oliveira, creatively updates traditional North Eastern dishes such as baião de dois (black eyed peas, rice and a rennet cheese) or carne de sol – sun-cured beef – served with a whole head of garlic and baby chillies on the side.

Oliveira even makes his own pork scratchings – torresmo. To finish, don’t miss the homemade ice-cream studded with pieces of rapadura – a solid fudge of unrefined sugarcane juice. And a shot or two of cachaça, don’t you think?

– to aid digestion, of course. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (2951 3056/mocoto.com.br).

Open noon-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$15-$60; couvert R$3.90-$6.90.

BRAZILIAN O Compadre The Lar Center shopping mall, which mostly sells furniture, may seem an odd spot to find a restaurant, but O Compadre is popular, nonetheless. During the weekend the vast space packs out with families, and it serves as a handy lunch choice for visitors to the immense, glassy Expo Center Norte convention centre nearby. In contrast, the restaurant’s rustic Brazilian farm theme comes complete with wooden rafters, cow hide-covered bar stools, wagon wheels and a cart by the entrance. Fill up your plate at the buffet – there are sixty dishes to choose from, including beans, pastas, moquecas (fish stew), salads and some side dishes like fried okra and the bitter vegetable jiló, two of the house specialities. For grilled meats, order your favourite cut – top sirloin cap (picanha) and entrecôte are good bets – from the chef manning the charcoal grill at the centre of the buffet.

Finish things off with one of their 200-strong line-up of cachaças from Minas Gerais. Avenida Otto Baumgart 500, Vila Guilherme (2252 3131/ compadre.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-5.30pm. Price buffet R$59.90-$66.90.

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Bars & Cafes Bar listings Top tipples New at SubAstor How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites.

For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar.

Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Consolação & Higienópolis Drosophyla With a chaotically colourful, charming decor – a style they call ‘contemporary baroque’, but which might be better described as ‘eccentric gentleman artist’s upmarket squat’ – this discreet little bar is popular with a slightly older, more bohemian crowd. From the outside, it’s just a quiet doorway on a gloomy street. But inside, the main event is a leafy, warmly illuminated garden scattered with mismatched tables and chairs. Glowing with lights at one end is a cosy little shed with a bar inside; and up a flight of steps is a smoker’s patio which even has a few plants choking in the fumes. Rua Pedro Taques 80, Consolação (3120 5535/ drosophyla.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista.

Open 7pm-2am Mon-Wed; 8pm-2am Thu; 8pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$13; minimum spend R$20-$40.

NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options. is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Papo, Pinga e Petisco This informal, lively bar is right on São Paulo’s bohemian frontline – on the bustling pavement of Praça Roosevelt, alongside a handful of alternative theatre companies. The bar’s name means ‘chat, cachaça and snacks’.

There’s a cut-out of Elvis surrounded by flashing lights outside and its big wooden tables are invariably full of loud chat, expansive gestures and oh, go on then, a saideira: the Brazilian version of one for the road. Praça Roosevelt 118, Centro (3257 4106). Metrô 3, República. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-2.30am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11.

No credit cards.

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Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Bar da Dona Onça Don’t be misled by the ‘bar’ in the name – this classic Centro destination is as much restaurant as watering hole, and its extensive menu, including pasta and meat dishes, draws crowds for both lunch and dinner. It’s well worth a visit even if it’s only to suss out the location, tucked in on the ground floor of Niemeyer’s iconic Copan building, and within walking distance of many of the city’s historic sights. Inside, tonguein-cheek leopard-print decor and wood panelling lend a cosy charm. Don’t miss the cashew caipiroska, or one of the delicious sharing dishes like the aptly named croc milanesa – a sensationally crunchy beef schnitzel sliced up for sharing. Rua Ipiranga 200, loja 2729, Centro (3257 2016/bardadonaonca.com. br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon11pm Mon-Wed; noon-midnight ThuSat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7, caipirinha R$18.

with saké and basil while you gaze in wonder at the city below. The bar scores high on warm service, too. 41st floor, Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (2189 2929/terracoitalia.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-1am Mon-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$22; cover R$30.

Fresh from two years at London’s sophisticated Montgomery Place, Fabio la Pietra is the new head at the sultry basement bar SubAstor. The Italian makes his own bitters, tonic water and fizzy coconut water, mixing them into 27 new cocktails, including a ‘Hall of Fame’ set of tipples, inspired by the rich and famous.

The Barbosa Fizz (see photo) is a nod to the revered samba singer and composer Adoniran Barbosa, with tequila, sweet vermouth, Campari, fresh grapefruit juice and a head of beer (R$25). See listings.

Terraço Itália You could almost be in a London gentlemen’s club at the bar at the top of landmark Edificio Itália, if it weren’t for the floor-to-ceiling windows providing a 360-degree view of the city.

Here on the 41st floor, you are above the

city’s other skyscrapers bar none, and even above the helicopters below. The unobstructed view comes at a cost: R$30 added to your bill, but it’s worth it. Settle into one of the brown leather chairs, and enjoy the classic vibe over a caipirinha

Sancho Bar y Tapas A classier alternative to Rua Augusta’s more lowrent watering holes, Sancho Bar y Tapas carries its Spanish theme from the menu – a mix of tapas dishes to share and individual pintxo-style portions of bread with ambrosial toppings, lined up along the long, underlit bar – through to the décor, with an eclecticism that takes in everything from vintage bullfighting posters to Basque flags. The music, too, blends Spanish chart tunes and rock, with the live flamenco guitar show a real treat for Mondays and Wednesdays (8.3010.30pm). Rua Augusta 1415, Consolação (3141 1956/sanchobarytapas.com.br).

Open 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-1am Thu; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-3am Fri; 5.30pm-3am Sat; 5.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14.

Z Carniceria This converted butcher’s shop makes no attempt to hide its origins, with stuffed cow heads, a gory butcher’s mural and butcher hooks hanging from rails on the wall. They say they’re not morbid, just raw, like crazy Rua Augusta, bustling past in the dark outside. We agree. The decor gives it a delightfully perverse, alternative feel, and the place buzzes happily to match with a crowd revving up for the nearby clubs. Rua Augusta 934, Consolação (2936 0934/ zcarniceria.com.br). Open 7pm-1am Tue, Wed; 7pm-2am Thu-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$14.90; minimum spend R$25-$30 (varies by night).

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Lebowski This cosy Barra Funda bar crams in as many references to the 1998 Coen brothers movie, The Big Lebowski, as possible, from bowling-pin lights to an alley-styled bar counter, and most important of all, a menu dedicated to the white russian. Those who aren’t partial to The Dude’s milky-coffee cocktail of choice can pick from a solid selection of other vodka-based drinks, and even some vodka-based twists on other classics, such as the (rumless) vodka mojito. Take ten steps into this bar and you’ll have already scoped out the entire space.

But while it may be small, there’s still room for a tiny, darkened dancefloor, where DJs spin a loud post-hipster soundtrack from the back of the house.

Rua Barra Funda 1070, Barra Funda (lebowskisp.com.br). Open 11pm-5am Fri-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7,50; caipiroska R$16. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Artilheiros Football is at the heart of this laid-back bar, from the team scarves and vintage football magazines adorning the white-washed brick walls, to its commitment to broadcasting all the major football games from South America and Europe. You won’t find rowdy fans in here, though – it’s not that kind of place. A R$5 surcharge on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays

covers live MPB and samba rock, when the football’s not on, that is. The only downside here is the limited menu and beer selection. The pumpkin and dried meat croquettes – recommended by our waiter as the best thing to pick – were over-fried on our last visit. Rua Mourato Coelho 1194, Pinheiros (2922 0314/ artilheirosbar.com.br). Open 8pmmidnight Wed, Thu; 8pm-3am Fri; 3pm3am Sat; 4pm-10.30pm Sun Prices 600ml beer R$7.60; caipirinha R$16.

Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bowtied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel. But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon. Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent red-and-black bar with some of the best cocktails in town.

Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (3815 1364/barastor.com.br/subastor.com.br).

Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-2am Tue, Wed; 6pm-3am Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat, noon-6pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50.

Cervejaria Nacional No beer in São Paulo travels a shorter distance from barrel to glass than at this microbrewery-cum-bar. Sit at the counter on the first floor overlooking the vast fermentation tanks below, or head up

Jardins

to the top-floor dining area for a cosier spot. If you like beer, go the whole hog with the degustação (R$19.90) – a 150ml sampler of all five of the home brews – a weiss beer, a lager, an India pale ale (IPA), a brown ale and a stout. Friendly service and good food make this an excellent choice for a group night out: go for the live jazz on Tuesday nights and blues on Thursdays. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros (3628 5000/ cervejarianacional.com.br). Open 5pmmidnight Mon-Wed; 5pm-1.30am Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$7.90; caipirinha R$14; cover R$12.

All Black Somewhat incongruous with its designer neighbours on the chic shopping street, Rua Oscar Freire, All Black is nevertheless an upmarket take on the pub concept, with a black façade, dark wood throughout the interior and two big screens for broadcasting football and rugby matches (though don’t expect to catch a game on Sunday, as you’ll find it shut). All the usual suspects from across the pond are on tap behind the bar, including Guinness, at an eye-watering R$19.50 per pint, which can be paired with the Guinness burger (R$20) – a juicy beef patty with gooey mozzarella cheese, let down only by its side of fries that lacked any crunch. Rua Oscar Freire 163, Jardim Paulista (3088 7990/allblack.com.br).

Open 6pm-midnight Mon; 6pm-1am Tue, Wed; 6pm-3am Thu, Fri; 7pm3.30am Sat. Prices half pint of beer R$8; cover R$15-$45.

Filial This bar is owned by the Altman brothers, who opened their first Vila Madalena bar in 1980 and dedicated it to choro. Since then the bar, once called the Clube do Choro and now known as Filial, has moved around the area, but it’s still the after-show bar of choice for local musicians. There’s an impressive list of caipirinhas – try the cachaça with lima da pérsia (lime). Sit outside and watch the Vila Madalena wildlife stumble by. Rua Fidalga 254, Vila Madalena (3813 9226/barfilial.com. br). Open 5pm-4am Mon-Fri; noon3am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.

Baretto Low-lit and elegant, with comfy leather chairs and shiny wooden tables, Baretto is as chic as the hotel

Critics’ choice Whisky drinkers

Genésio Ignore the pizza and pasta, even though they’re rather good, and forget the white-shirted waiters rushing by: what really makes Genésio buzz is its clientele. That could mean an archaeology professor, a classical dancer, or just a gaggle of club kids ­– they all feel at home here, and will wait half an hour just for an outside table.

It’s owned by Filial’s Altman brothers (as is the boteco Genial) and has a good selection of cachaças. Rua Fidalga 265, Vila Madalena (3812 6252/bargenesio. com.br). Open 5pm-2.30am Mon; 5pm3.30am Tue-Thu; noon-4.30am Fri, Sat; noon-2.30am Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.

Genial The tiled floors, the oldfashioned charm and the good-natured bustle of this classic Vila Madalena choperia make it a good place to watch a football game on a Sunday afternoon, or to tuck into a plate of pasta late on a Tuesday night. It also has a pleasant patio out front and a games room with a pool table. Rua Girassol 374, Vila Madalena (3812 7442/bargenial. com.br). Open 5pm-3am Mon-Sat; noon-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.

Jacaré Grill Wind your way to the entrance of this watering-hole through a row of Harleys, and through throngs of locals and bikers, beers in hand, waiting patiently for an hour or more for a table on sunny weekend afternoons. It’s all about the meat here, which comes in biker-sized portions.

Don’t miss the grilled palm-heart or the morcilla (blood sausage), followed by any of the six of more flavours of linguiça (sausage), served in hunks with chilli jam. Once you’ve eaten, settle in on the patio until the sun goes down.

Rua Harmonia 317, Vila Madalena (3816 0400/jacaregrill.com.br). Open noon-2am Tue-Fri; noon-11pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$7.60; caipirinha R$13.

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Food & Drink

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda

All Black Johnnie Walker is ubiquitous in the city’s bars and botecos, but more interesting blends and single malts can be found if you know where to look.

Catering to an upmarket crowd, All Black has ten Scotch whiskys behind the bar.

Baretto Cocktails, live MPB and bossa nova, and comfy leather chairs make this bar on the ground floor of the Fasano hotel a sophisticated choice. The whisky collection, along with that of the bar in the Fasano restaurant, is one of the city’s best.

Blue Pub A lively, post-work crowd frequents this corner pub, just off Avenida Paulista. You’ll find almost as many single malts here as there are blends – if you can find a seat, savour one of the smoky Isle of Islay malts.

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Bar Numero This slick bar is in the uptown, top-ranking category, no doubt whatsoever. Just to get up its striking walkway and through the door means a minimum spend of R$100 per person, plus a reservation; but if you get the chance to step inside, take it.

The dramatic interior is emblematic of its architect Isay Weinfeld’s virtuoso touch, as is Número’s mysterious facade, where a set of monolithic numbers in relief on the wall, like the enigmatically placed contents of a typesetter’s box, is the only sign the bar needs. Rua da Consolação 3585, Jardim Paulista (3061 3995/barnumero.com.br). Open 7pmlate Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$28; mimimum spend R$100-$200.

Blue Velvet Inspired by the David Lynch film of the same name, the deep tones and soft shadows of this bar

draw you into its flirty abyss. Head through the blue velvet curtains to the bar where mini-chandeliers light the way on towards the très petite dance space, where a rotating selection of rock, soul and disco will help you get down. Take a seat on one of the dark leather sofas near the bar and sip a Long Island Iced Tea or an Isabella Rossellini – a sparkling wine, melon liqueur and lemonade cocktail. The crowd tends to be a solid mix of youthful business travellers, glossy socialites and T-shirt-wearing hipsters, all sipping the same sapphire-stained spirits. Rua Bela Cintra 1541, Jardim Paulista (3063 5232/bluevelvet.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista.

Open 8pm-late Wed-Fri; 9pm-late Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$14; minimum spend R$20-$30.

together in this intimate basement space, keeping the crowd small and select. Our only question: what’s with the loud disco music? Alameda Jaú 1844C, Jardim Paulista (3063 3961/divinewinebar. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista.Open 7pm-1am Tue-Sat. Prices wine glass R$28-$96; wine bottle R$76-$918.

Mercearia São Roque This neighbourhood bar-cum-eaterie, with a sister bar at the Jockey Club, and an even newer sibling, the Mercearia Grill (Rua Jorge Coelho 162, Itaim Bibi), may be hidden away down a leafy residential street, but it’s by no means a secret, filling out most nights of the week with a smart professional crowd.

The conversation, which flits between fun Divine Wine Bar In a city in and fund which a decent glass of wine management, Hour y p p a H can be hard to find without Mid-week , Wednesdays reaches its ays sitting down to eat, this is peak on warm On TuesdThursdays, a a welcome addition to the evenings and is e in w d nightscape. With around fifty when gangs of selecte r-1 2-fo wines on the menu, twenty well-groomed of them are available by the guys and gals vie glass, although the cheapest is a steep for tables outside.

R$20. The clever Enomatic machine, A comprehensive menu which dispenses perfectly-preserved includes everything from nibbles, salads wine, is a good (though equally and sandwiches to full hot meals. Rua expensive) place to start if you want to Amauri 35, Jardim Europa (3085 6647/ taste a few, in either a snifter (25ml), a merceariasaoroque.com.br). Open noonslug (75ml) or a small bucket (160ml). midnight daily. Prices chope R$5.80; A mere fifteen tables are packed cosily caipirinha R$17.

GO FOR

Noh On first impressions, Noh is exactly what you might imagine an upmarket bar in an expensive city to be – classy, low-lit and peopled by attractive punters clutching sophisticated drinks. But as the evening wears on and the covers band starts up, the bar’s true colours came shining through – more upscale Cheers than high-flying Gordon Gecko hangout. The decent, at times ambitious cocktail menu never quite hits the high notes the bar is going for – molecular flourishes like the Fresh Hot (R$23), a grape martini accompanied by a strawberry injected with chilli, are passable rather than revelatory. And the food – an international roll call of snacks from mini burgers to batatas bravas – was tasty, but nothing to write home about. Rua Bela Cintra 1709, Jardim Paulista (2609 3673/nohbar.com.br).

Open 6-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 7pm-1.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; caipirinha R$18, cover R$20-R$70.

Food & Drink

in which it’s housed. Everything about it, from the spot-on service to the wellcurated roster of musicians who keep the MPB, jazz and bossa nova flowing, screams Fasano – the hotel and the family who, with half a century of practice, have become arguably the finest hoteliers and restaurateurs in Brazil. Order a whiskey or a martini and soak up the atmosphere. Rua Vittório Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista (3896 4000/fasano.com.br). Open 7pm3am Mon-Fri; 8pm-3am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$21; caipirinha R$26; cover R$37.

Skye Regarded as one of the city’s modern architectural wonders, Hotel Unique’s half-moon design is certainly eye-catching. And it’s the only place many visiting star DJs and other high flyers will stay. Consequently, the hotel’s signature rooftop poolside bar is as selfconsciously fashionable as you might expect – but the view and the pool are simply stunning, especially on a clear, sunny day. Order a mojito and lounge on one of the outside deck chairs under the mood-enhancing lighting. Hotel Unique, Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700,

Imagine somewhere arretado!

ers Main courses, appetuizsic! and live Brazilian m

Madalena, 'll find the Brazillian beer At Canto Madalena, you lena. neighborhood, Vila Mada created in honor of the Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque, 471- Vila Madalena Reservations: (11) 3813-6814 | facebook/cantomadalena Open Tuesday to Friday: 12pm - 4pm and 6pm - 1am / Saturday sand holidays: 12pm -1am / Sunday: 12pm - 6pm

A tranquil corner in bustling Vila Madalena

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Food & Drink

Jardim Paulista (3055 4710/skye.com. br). Open 6pm-12.30am Mon-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$12; caipirinha R$26.

Squat The squatters in this twostorey hangout tend to be trendy twentysomethings who set up camp for parties and pre-club warm-up drinks.

The dim lighting creates an intimate atmosphere though be warned, the place gets packed out from Thursdays to Saturdays when DJs – spinning anything from rock to Latino tunes – liven up the crowd. Flirt your socks off downstairs or bag a table upstairs in the mezzanine where, with the volume turned down a notch, conversation is just a tad more audible. Alameda Itu 1548, Jardim Paulista (3081 4317/ barsquat.com.br). Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$16; minimum spend R$25$60.

The View There was no pussyfooting about when it came to naming this 30th-floor penthouse bar. Let’s sell it like it is, they decided: it’s an upmarket hotel-style bar with floor-to-ceiling windows and a terrace that’s perfectly placed for seeing the city by night.

But that view doesn’t come cheap: there’s a cover charge and only a few wines are less than R$100 a bottle.

The better bets are the well-made cocktails, with the kir royales and margaritas particularly recommended.

Transamerica International Plaza, Alameda Santos 981, Jardim Paulista (3266 3692/theviewbar.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP or Brigadeiro. Open 6pm-midnight Mon; 6pm-2am Tue-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$18; cover R$22 (after 9pm).

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Tutto Italiano Bar & Cucina Tacked on to the side of its sister restaurant, Tutto Italiano Bar has all the hallmarks of a New York speakeasy. Its art deco finish – mirrors, chrome, woods and leather banquettes – is beautifully lit in soft yellow by wall lamps, making it a sophisticated spot for trysting or a drink alone, with that rare-to-findin-SP quality of seating at the bar. A solid selection of Italian bitters go into interesting cocktails like the Negroni Sbagliato (R$23), a perfectly balanced red concoction of Campari, Aperol and red vermouth, with a sweet dash of prosecco. If you’re more in the mood for a glass of wine, best look elsewhere: there’s just one option by the glass here, and it’s an overpriced Frascati (R$17).

Rua Melo Alves 191, Jardim Paulista, (3061 9639/tuttoitaliano.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-2am Fri; noon-2am Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$15.

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Yellow K This dark and dingy bar is an anomaly in this otherwise exclusive part of Jardins, but it’s a welcome pitstop nonetheless when everywhere else is shut and you’re still raring to go. And – bonus! – it’s a karaoke bar. Go with a group and be ready to sing your heart out with a young and eclectic crowd ranging from wannabe Lady Gagas to try-hard Tom Jobims.

On Mondays, Tuesdays, the 2-for-1 on beers and caipirinhas serve as a double

dose of Dutch courage for the too-shyto-warble. Alameda Lorena 514, Jardim Paulista (3884 2151/yellowk.com.br).

Open 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 7pm4am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$20.

No credit cards.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled by the hum of chatter as you approach Bottagallo, or by the huddles of people outside, relaxing on the long benches with a beer or standing around chatting.

Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; and happily – because the wait is well worth it. Kick off with one of the no-fuss house cocktails to get things going – the Vesper martini, with a hint of lemon, is a good call, whether piccolo (R$18) or regular (R$23). Once inside and settled at one of the rustic wooden tables, just let the efficient, friendly waiters keep the cold chope coming, and order a plate or two of the delicious, made-for-sharing tapas. Rua Jesuíno Arruda 520, Itaim Bibi (3078 2858/bottagallo.com.br). Open 6.30pmmidnight Mon; 6.30pm-1am Tue-Thu; 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; noon-2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$16.50.

Seo Gomes The Fifties-inspired decor and warm, inviting glow makes walking past Seo Gomes a tricky proposition.

Sparkling tiles line the walls and floor, set off by a decidedly retro shade of green paint. And with smart waiters in flat caps buzzing around with trays of chopes, it wouldn’t seem out of place if Mad Men’s Don Draper were to walk in, light up a ciggie and order himself a whisky. A predominantly male (and often loud) crowd can drown out the live bossa nova; but the evening buffet is a definite plus for hungry drinkers. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 1214, Vila Olímpia (3846 3625/ seogomes.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15; cover R$7.

Ibirapuera & Moema Bar do Juarez There is a subtle art deco-aesthetic at work in both branches of the ever-popular Bar do Juarez. Both get packed with older crowds drawn to the wide selection of whiskies and cachaças, and the table-top mini grill for juicy beef cuts always goes down a storm, even if it tends to fill the secondary salon at this, the original Moema branch, with a rather unsavoury smell. The excellent self-service, perkilo spread of bar snacks blows most other bars right out of the water with its olives and cheeses, cold cuts and pickles; but avoid the nasty, watery caipirinhas with their thin-sliced lime.

Avenida Jurema 324, Moema (5052 4449/bardojuarez.com.br). Open 5pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha Other locations Avenida R$14.

Deputado Franco de Lacerda 642, Pinheiros (3578 5228); Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 1164, Itaim (3078 3458); Rua Joaquim Nabuco 325, Brooklin (3969 4988).

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As Mineiras Set on a quiet residential street, this bar and its adjacent store are a twin homage to São Paulo’s neighbouring state of Minas Gerais.

Folk art chickens and bottles of hot peppers from Minas adorn the shelves around the bar. Take a seat beneath the wagon-wheel chandeliers and take your pick of shareable mineiro staples like pastel de angú (corn meal fritters) and bolinhos de feijão (bean balls). The real draw, though, is the drinks menu, with a comprehensive selection of cachaças and bonus happy hour specials that includes 2-for-1 caipirinhas every day except Saturday. Rua França Pinto 965, Vila Mariana (5083 5835/ asmineiras.com.br). Open 4-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

The Blue Pub Set just round the back of the Maksoud Plaza hotel, The Blue Pub is a good place for after-work drinks on a Friday. The main upstairs bar has the feel of an old pub that’s been given a brush-up; while in the low-lit downstairs, things are cosier, with a classic pub bar. The bar has an array of good imported bottled beer, and Heineken, Newcastle Brown and Guinness on tap – plus spicy vegetable pasties. It’s not, however, blue at all – it’s more of a mousy, steely grey. How very British. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 384, Bela Vista (3284 8338/thebluepub. com.br). Open 4pm-2am Mon-Wed; 4pm-3am Thu-Sat; 3pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$11; caipirinha R$16; minimum spend R$15-$30.

Choperia Liberdade A gloriously kitsch and raucous atmosphere prevails at this karaoke hangout in the heart of São Paulo’s Japanese district. The bar also has a big back room full of pool tables, which tends to fill up atmospherically with smoke from the grill. The food isn’t amazing, the dancefloor is more of an ad-hoc space cleared in the throng; and the karaoke singers tend to be more miss than hit; but it’s great for a messy, drunken night out. At weekends, it’s packed, and note that you’ll need to get your name down early if you want your three minutes of fame. Rua da Glória 523, Liberdade (3207 8783). Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 7pm-5am Tue-Thu; 7pm6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-5am Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$0-$10.

Ludus Close to Avenida Brigadeiro, Ludus is a convivial bar in which the games people play are about as simple and easy to discern as they could possibly be. The bar staff will even come round and explain the rules, for heaven’s sake – we are speaking, of course, of board games, which is what Ludus is all about. There are hundreds of games in the three-storey bar’s games cabinet, and they’re being played at every table, whether it’s couples strategising over battleships, realpolitikal workmates frowning over games of Risk, or jolly groups of friends bumping elbows over Monopoly. Rua 13 de Maio 972, Bela Vista (3253 8452/ludusluderia.com.br).

Open noon-3pm Mon, Tue; noon-3pm,

6pm-midnight Wed, Thu; noon-3pm, 6pm-3am Fri; 6pm-3am Sat; 11am11pm Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.80; caipirinha R$12.80; cover R$10-$25.

Food & Drink

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana

Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss.

There’s limited space inside, so expect to wait for a seat, or settle for standingroom on the pavement outside, next door to the extraordinary Sabesp watertank building. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts.

Hopefully not though. Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/ velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm-12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo.

References to his work pepper the bar, from his cheery face in photos and caricatures lining the walls to excerpts from his books on the napkins, and even in the menu too, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book.

Find savoury snacks like the delicious battered brie with chilli jam (R$30) on the menu under ‘piriris’ – a word of Veríssimo’s own invention, meaning little bites to eat. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar.com. br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am-2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

The North Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city in northern suburb Freguesia do Ó is a São Paulo mecca for chicken and beer. Go early on a sunny afternoon and bag a table outside on the square overlooking the church.

Kick things off with the infamous chicken and catupiry coxinha. Beer lovers should try one of the beertasting menus, which meander through Brazilian, British and even rare Trappist beers. Each one is served at the right temperature and in the correct shape of glass. Consider lining your stomach first with a frango completo – a spit-roast chicken served with fried polenta, farofa and salad.

Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (3932 4818/ frangobar.com.br) Open 11ammidnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.60; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

The hot list – cafés How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice-cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

New in town La Churreria

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

NEW means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

CAFÉ Café Floresta Slotted in on

the ground floor of Oscar Niemeyer’s immense, stunning Copan building, this standing-room-only café is arguably the best old-school spot for coffee downtown.

One of a series of Café Florestas, this original Centro location has 37 years of history behind it, with murals on the walls and an air of low-key, old-world nostalgia. Regulars opt for the creamy espresso, which goes well with a slice of homemade cake – take your pick from orange, coconut or banana (R$6.50).

Avenida Ipiranga 200, República (3259 8416/cafefloresta.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 8am-10pm daily.

Prices cafezinho R$3.

Consolação & Higienópolis BAKERY Benjamin Abrahão The Jardins branch of this citywide bakery is the most modern and trendy; but this Higienópolis version, older and considerably more traditional, is still sought out for its sweets and croissants, especially the ham croissant, a spot-on snack accompanied by coffee or juice.

Rua Maranhão 220, Higienópolis (3258 1855/benjaminabrahao.com.br). Open 6am-8.30pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.70; sandwiches R$7.90-$10.20.

Other locations Citywide.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros CAFÉ Coffee Lab If you’re looking

for a full immersion in the world of Brazilian coffee, this is the place.

Fittingly, the café resembles a lab, with staff kitted out in overalls making coffee with a nerdy attention to detail.

All that’s missing are the Bunsen burners, but there’s an array of coffee-

Ibirapuera & Moema BAKERY Blés D’Or Temptation awaits

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Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

with beans from the Alta Mogiana region of inland São Paulo state. Try them in a simple espresso or one of the more inventive espressos like the romano, served with a twist of lime peel. On sunny days, opt for an iced coffee outside on the terrace. To eat, there’s a full lunch menu, or simply team your coffee with sugar-coated rabanada – French toast (R$13.80).

Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2996, Itaim Bibi (3074 0110/octaviocafe. com). Open 7.45am-10pm Mon-Fri; 9am-11pm Sat; 9am-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$5.10; sandwiches R$14.50-$34.

Churros, Spain’s hot, crunchy batons of deep-fried dough, are the mainstay of the brand new La Churreria.

Order them the Spanish way – thin and crispy (R$4) with a chocolate dip (R$2.50), or Brazilian-style – a sugary hit filled with doce de leite caramel (R$7 each).

Couple it with a coffee (R$3.90), or a hot chocolate with rum (R$9). Avenida São Gabriel 549, Itaim Bibi (2619 2054/lachurreria.com.br). making paraphernalia to make up for it: the coffee-zealot menu boasts all manner of brewing methods as well as beans, including a ‘ritual’ (R$9-$13), in which two cups of the same coffee are presented, one made with a French press and the other with an AeroPress. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1340, Vila Madalena (3375 7400/coffeelab.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$4.50.

Jardins CAFÉ Oscar Café Retro-chic is the

vibe at this Oscar Freire favourite, all mirrored tables and, in the back, an area straight from The Jetsons, where a futuristic TV and lamps create a cosy, relaxed atmosphere. The downstairs café offers some of the best espressos in the area, while upstairs there’s a bar and restaurant with set meals from R$32.20-$40.40, including a glass of wine at dinner, plus an à la carte menu.

Rua Oscar Freire 727, Jardim Paulista (3063 5209/oscarcafe.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-midnight MonSat; 10am-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.80; sandwiches R$23.30-$28.80.

BAKERY St. Etienne This popular

meeting-point bakery and confectioner has a great breakfast buffet (R$11.90 Mon-Fri; R$28 Sat, Sun), a popular happy hour, and tables out on the pavement. It’s open 24/7 and the buzz is constant, whether for chope-drinking or soup-sipping, sweet treats or cold cuts. Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 1417, Jardim Paulista (3885 0691/santaetienne.com.br). Open 24 hours daily Prices cafezinho R$3.30; sandwiches R$8.90-$29.50. Other location Avenida Diógenes Ribeiro de Lima 2555, Alto de Pinheiros (3021 1200). 24 HR

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia CAFÉ Octavio Café Incongruous

with the gleaming towers of finance that flank busy Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, Octavio Café is a vast, curvaceous, timber-clad temple to the bean. The location, speedy service, comfy seats and acres of space make this a sought-after spot for a business meeting or to settle in for an afternoon’s remote working. Coffees are prepared

here in the form of bread fresh from the bakery, or sweet delights from the pâtisserie, such as eclairs, mille feuilles and tarte tatin. Stop in for a coffee or go for the weekend brunch buffet, with scrambled eggs, crêpes and cakes to brighten your day. Rua Tuim 653, Moema (5532 0183/blesdor. com.br) Open 7.30am-10.30pm MonFri; 8.30am-10.30pm Sat; 8.30am6pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.20; sandwiches R$19-$28.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana café Nicecup One of the best cafés in

the Vila Mariana and Chácara Klabin area, Nicecup has something of a retro air, its ample space replete with varnished wood, and red armchairs.

The espressos (R$4.30) are made with their own brand coffee and team up well with a plate of mini churros (R$17,50) and hot chocolate sauce. Rua Pedro Nicole 1, Vila Mariana (5083 1012/ nicecup.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Thu; noon-midnight Fri-Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4.30; sandwiches R$19-$28.

Santo Amaro & Campo Belo café Casa Pilão Pilão is one of

Brazil’s household coffee brands, and this eponymous café is all about the brand experience. The bright red space has plenty of large tables, making it good for group get-togethers or impromptu meetings. The coffee is prepared with your choice of beans (there are three blends of varying qualities) in a vacuum coffeemaker called the globinho, comprised of two glass cylinders and a boiling plate, providing a bonus chemistry spectacle.

Avenida Roque Petroni Júnior 1089, Santo Amaro (5181 7338/pilao.com.br).

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat. Prices cafezinho R$3.60; pão de queijo (cheese bread) R$2.80.

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Out & About This month in São Paulo

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Art & Museums Shopping Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Football & World Cup 2014

Master stroke Paolo Veronese’s depiction of the battle of Lepanto, in the CCBB’s Renaissance exhibition

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Art & Museums Cut-and-paint The overall effect of the cut-andpaste style might easily become clichéd in the wrong hands, with some elements bordering on an adolescent use of crude sexual references, and heavy use of the punk standard of the mismatchedmagazine-headline ransom note.

But Sesper manages to avoid these pitfalls by continually surprising, turning his vivid, colour-popping palette with their scraps of text and cross-cut scientific diagrams into an intriguing and cathartic example of personal expression that’s enriched by, rather than derivative of, the work of those who have come before him.

‘Reprovado’ is at Galeria Logo, until 5 October. See listings.

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offering viewers the challenge of deciphering the artist’s intent.

Building on the design ideas present in his previous mixed media creations, Sesper’s large, vibrant panels incorporate personal artefacts with found objects, and unexpected meanings emerge from overlapping layers of materials that would otherwise be thrown away. And within these disparate elements – magazine clippings, educational posters, fragments of cassette tape: the debris of mid-to-late-20th-century society – remains an attention to the human figure. Reels of tape become a pair of eyes in Belong to Us; book jackets form the bodies of twins in Siames Dream; and a photo of a typewriter is a strangely toothsome mouth, in Dois ou 3 Passos.

Incorporating unlikely elements, Sesper’s painted collages are vividly engaging, says CM Gorey All art, you might say, is the crystallisation of an artist’s experience in one way or another.

For Sesper, aka Alexandre Cruz, who has a solo show at Galeria Logo this month, a long history of skate, punk and street art inform his intriguing panels: a chaotic mix of collage, acrylic paint, pencil and silk screening. The Santos-born street artist first made a name for himself as a designer of T-shirts, fanzines and record covers back in the early 1990s, and as the vocalist for the

hardcore band Garage Fuzz, with whom he still performs.

There’s an underground skater aesthetic and a punk political bent to his work that borrows heavily from the black humour of the early flyer art made famous in Gee Voucher’s provocative monochromatic collages for the band Crass in the 1980s. And although Sesper’s works are generally less explicit and much more colourful than Vaucher’s, theyre no less thought-provoking.

The exhibition, titled ‘Reprovado’ (‘Failure’, or ‘Rejection’), isn’t nearly as negative or insular as the name might suggest: Sesper’s works are bright, engaging and instantly accessible, while still

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Reel-to-unreal ‘Belong To Us’ features tape reels, text, graphite and paint

Double-take Human forms, as in ‘Siames Dream’ (above), are a constant

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Art listings Italian Renaissance Masters How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres.

Recommended institutions are marked with a .

Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

Butantã

Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista behind a blank façade that the gallery sometimes uses as a canvas.

Inside, in a set of spaces designed by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists, investing considerable care and effort into their careers. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/ galeriavermelho.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Sergio Romagnolo, Joana Vasconcelos, young British artist Jack Strange, and psychedelic rangers Assume Vivid Astro Focus are some of the many artists represented by this always interesting gallery. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Luciana Brito Galeria This elegant gallery represents 20 high-calibre artists

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Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

A single trip to the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil offers visitors the chance to see works from some of the best-known artists of the High Renaissance, such as Titian (including his Penitent Magdalene, pictured above), Tintoretto, Botticelli, and the trinity of great painters, Raphael, Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci.

‘Masters of the Renaissance: Italian Masterpieces’ spreads 57 classic pieces, exemplary of the period, over four floors of CCBB’s grandiose space. At CCBB until 23 September. See Museums & Cultural Centres listings. from Brazil and abroad, including names like Marina Abramovic, Regina Silveira and Mônica Nador, as well as emerging artists like Pablo Lobato. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 842, Vila Olímpia (3842 0634/ lucianabritogaleria.com.br). Open 10am7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Marília Razuk Currently in a highly discreet Itaim location, Marília Razuk has been showing Brazilian and international artists of great stature since 1992. An impressive roster includes the neo-concretist maestro Amilcar de Castro. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 131, Itaim Bibi (3079 0853/ galeriamariliarazuk.com.br) Open 10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Galeria Oscar Cruz Oscar Cruz has been dealing in contemporary art in São Paulo for over 15 years, and takes part in the major international art fairs. The large gallery space, split over two floors, focuses

on the work of contemporary Brazilian artists, covering a broad range of media from painting and photography to installation and sculpture. Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 526, Itaim Bibi (3167 0833/ galeriaoscarcruz.com.br). Open 11am7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Jardins Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. Inside, a classic white-cube exhibition space leads up to a large office the gallery plans to share with other creatives, as a kind of hub. And right on top, a terrace, looking out over the treetops of leafy Jardins. Rua Estados

Art & Museums

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/emmathomas.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s. With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as mid-career artists such as Alexandre da Cunha. Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/galerialuisastrina.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Mendes Wood Injecting a dash of youthful zest and daring into the city’s art scene, Mendes Wood is owned by galleristas Pedro Mendes, Felipe Dmab and Matthew Wood, the latter from the USA. This is a cutting-edge gallery whose artists now include Brazil’s foremost conceptual artist, Tunga, as well as a roster of bright young things.

Rua da Consolação 3358, Jardim Paulista (3081 1735/ mendeswood.com).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Mônica Filgueiras & Eduardo Machado Mônica Filgueiras, who sadly passed away in 2011, was a highly respected veteran of the São Paulo art scene. She had only recently teamed up with the gallerist Eduardo Machado to form this new joint gallery, featuring edgy street art by the likes of Ozi, Bugre and Gejo as well as works by the Modernist Italian-Brazilian sculptor Victor Brecheret, whose immense Monumento às Bandeiras statue sits in front of Parque do Ibirapuera.

Rua Bela Cintra 1533, Jardim Paulista (3081 9492). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-2.pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Nara Roesler With her son Alexandre running online gallery Galeria Motor (galeriamotor.com.br), and herself a busy and experienced player, Nara Roesler is an influential name in São Paulo art.

Japanese ‘old school contemporary’ painter Tomie Ohtake, founder of the institute that bears her name (see Major institutions), is just one of her artists, as are fashionable young painters like Rodolpho Parigi.

Avenida Europa 655, Jardim Europa (3063 2344/nararoesler.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards..

Zipper Galeria The emphasis at this gallery, owned by the experienced galerista Fabio Cimino, is on the new and the pop. We love the now-iconic, voyeuristic photos of unknowing city balcony sunbathers by fashion/ art photographer Felipe Morozini, and the strangely resonant portraits by the young painter Rodrigo Cunha; but with excellent curation and two spaces, upstairs and down, there’s always something on that’s worth seeing here.

Rua Estados Unidos 1494, Jardim Paulista (4306 4306/zippergaleria.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Perdizes & Pompéia Gravura Brasileira Opened in 1998

by Alberto Fuks and Eduardo Besen to showcase classic and contemporary print art, Gravura Brasileira has since staged more than 100 exhibitions from

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its Perdizes headquarters. This is one of precious few print-only galleries in Brazil, and its exhibitions are both reliably interesting and of consistently high artistic quality. Rua Dr Franco da Rocha 61, Perdizes (3624 0301/ gravurabrasileira.com). Open 11am6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat.

Child’s play SESC Pompeia

Santa Cecília Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has also developed particularly good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Her gallery occupies a large, airy, industrial space in the rising art district of Barra Funda, where it has the floor space for large installations.

Rua Barra Funda 216, Barra Funda (3666 6489/barogaleria.com).

Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. In early 2013, it closed its much loved original gallery space at Rua João Moura, concentrating its activities at what was formerly its second location. It has

Gal Oppido/PRESS IMAGE

Art & Museums

Pinheiros Galeria Estação Gallery director Vilma Eid’s focus is on the cream of Brazilian popular art, displaying a collection of fascinating works, including sculpture and painting by artists such as José Antônio da Silva and Nuca. Books and local crafts are also for sale. Rua Ferreira de Araújo 625, Pinheiros (3813 7253/galeriaestacao. com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Logo In a versatile white space with a basement area that means two shows can run concurrently, Galeria Logo is a favourite with the skate/ graffiti/meeja crowd, and got off to a flying start when it opened in 2011 with a series of ambitious, large-scale shows.

We particularly like Walter Nomura’s complex, colourful, messy paintings and Flávio Samelo’s striking photographs.

Rua Artur de Azevedo 401, Pinheiros (3062 2381/galerialogo.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. Galeria Virgílio The airy exhibition spaces and pleasant cafe of Galeria Virgílio are a hangout for the Pinheiros art crowd, and the place is unashamedly intellectual. So don’t be surprised to find a social-media journalism course or a jazz show by multi-instrumentalist Renato Anesi happening alongside exhibitions by home-grown artists like Diego Belda, who is also the chef and owner of Rothko restaurant. Rua Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto 426, Pinheiros (2373 2999/galeriavirgilio.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

colourful paintings. Look out too for the work of the always interesting Adriana Varejão. If there’s something on in particular, the Galpão (warehouse) is well worth a visit, too – but the area isn’t great, so it’s probably best to take a taxi there. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena (3032 7066/ fortesvilaca.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards. Other location Galpão Fortes Vilaça (warehouse), Rua James Holland 71, Barra Funda (3392 3942).

Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri.; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards..

Galeria Millan The charming André Millan is a mainstay of the Brazilian art market, and represents, amongst others, the artists Tatiana Blass, Artur Barrio and Ana Maria Maiolino. Millan also shows photographers like Bob Wolfenson, and Miguel Rio Branco, one of the godfathers of contemporary Brazilian photography. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1360, Vila Madalena (3031 6007/galeriamillan.com.br).Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. In 1982, the architect Lina Bo Bardi inaugurated a new No credit cards.

Galeria Raquel Arnaud building, SESC Pompeia, organising a major exhibition Contemporary art curator Raquel of toys to launch the space. Thirty years on, ‘Mais de Arnaud specialised in geometric abstraction at her São Paulo gallery Mil Brinquedos para a Criança Brasileira’, (‘More than Gabinete de Arte since 1980, 1,000 Toys for Brazilian Children’), a larger version of showcasing talent such as Lygia Clark.

In March 2011, she moved to this the same show, returns to the place where it all began. new, larger gallery, split over three Spinning tops, shuttlecocks, papier mâché dolls, building storeys, in which the lower ground floor is a permanent archive for her blocks, cars, planes – and even a 5th-century BC Greek important collection of works by the pottery figurine – are laid out like an immense toy factory.

Constructivist artist Sergio Camargo.

Rua Fidalga 125, Vila Madalena Visitors can climb ramps, scoot through tunnels, pass (3083 6322/raquelarnaud.com). Open along conveyor belts, and find hidden windows – and a 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat. No cards. thousand ways to play, without an iPad or joystick in sight. credit Galeria Transversal A new Vila SESC Pompeia, Rua Clelia 93, Pompeia (3871 7700/ Madalena outpost for the two-yearold Barra Funda gallery, this space is sescsp.org.br). Until 2 February 2014. FREE double the size of the original, at 400m2.

Swing by to check it out, and combine it with a trip to the nearby galleries Fortes Vilaça and Galeria Millan. The older space will only be used for occasional played a significant role in promoting São Paulo Bienal. Rua Mourato Coelho exhibitions and courses and also as the city’s street art, and if you find live751, Vila Madalena (2645 4480/ the ‘acervo’ – the back room; so call to wire curator/co-owner Baixo Ribeiro on centralgaleriadearte.com). Open 10amcheck before heading to Barra the premises and up for a chat, you’ll 7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No Funda. Rua Fidalga 545, come out wiser on this and many other credit cards.

Vila Madalena (3392 5287/ art-related subjects. Rua Medeiros de Galeria Eduardo galeriatransversal.com.br).

Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 Fernandes Don’t be Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 2365/choquecultural.com.br). Open intimidated by the high 11am-6pm Sat. Other 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat. wall that faces the street location Rua do Bosque DOC Galeria This dynamic little in front of this gallery. rill G ré a c Ja 206, Barra Funda (3392 gallery upstairs from Post 6 bar (the Ring the bell, and you’ll be rs 5287). Open 11am-8pm gallery owner is also a partner in greeted by smiling staff and See Ba Tue-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat. the lively night spot) specialises in led through a bamboo-lined photography, running the Mostra, Vila courtyard to the modern, Madalena’s annual photo festival, as well white-walled gallery space out back.

Vila Mariana as a series of workshops and events.

Wander between two exhibition rooms White Cube São Paulo It’s one of Highly recommended. Rua Aspicuelta and the gallery’s permanent collection, the first major international galleries 662, Vila Madalena (3938 0130/ contemplating contemporary works by to arrive in São Paulo – but we’re docgaleria.com.br). Open 11am-7pm impressive international names. Rua wagering it won’t be the last. Opened Mon-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat..

Harmonia 145, Vila Madalena (3032 in December 2012 in Brazil, London’s Central Galeria One of the newer 6380/galeriaeduardohfernandes.com).

White Cube gallery represents Antony players on São Paulo’s contemporary Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Gormley, Tracey Emin, love-him-orart scene, this gallery opened its doors Sat. No credit cards.

Fortes Vilaça Even an art hate-him art bad boy Damien Hirst, on the ground floor of a residential ignoramus will feel the quality at this and a huge list of major international building on bustling Avenida Rebouças gallery, one of the most established talent. As well as bringing artists from at the end of 2010, moving on in 2012 Brazilian names on the international its current roster to show in SP, the to team up with Galeria Ímpar in a circuit. They’ve got some big names gallery will be showing Brazilian artists larger space in Vila Madalena. With on the roster: São Paulo graffiti stars at its new, immense London space in a mission to discover some of the OsGemeos (though graffiti doesn’t Bermondsey, and possibly even in its talent emerging from São Paulo’s art accurately describe their magicalHong Kong branch. Rua Agostinho schools, the gallery represents a varied realist paintings), the world-renowned Rodrigues Filho 550, Vila Mariana line of young artists. Look out for the installation artist Ernesto Neto, and (whitecube.com). Open 11am-7pm unique, compelling self-portraits by Beatriz Milhazes and her beautiful, Tue-Sat. Nino Cais – one of the hits at the 2012

IN THE AREA

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Museums & cultural centres

music performances. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2705, Jardim Paulistano (3032 3727/mcb.sp.gov.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; free Sun. Museu do Futebol The fascinating Museu do Futebol uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football. A large collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events to stimulate young supporters into learning the facts behind their favourite sport.

Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu. Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) A makeover in 2008 revitalised this stark, concrete building, which is home to a collection of 30,000 items in the shape of photos, films and records.

It also stages innovative temporary exhibitions and retrospectives. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br). Open noon-9pm Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; seniors free. No credit cards.

Museu Lasar Segall A jewel in São Paulo’s roster of museums, the Museu Lasar Segall is the former home of Lithuanian-born Modernist artist Lasar Segall, who moved to Brazil in 1923. Established in 1967, ten years after Segall’s death, the multi-use space encompasses a printing workshop, small cinema, café and temporary exhibition spaces as well as a semi-permanent collection of Segall’s paintings, sculpture and furniture, created throughout his career. Rua Berta 111, Vila Mariana (2159 0400/museusegall.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Mariana. Open 11am-7pm Mon,Wed-Sun. Museu da Língua Portuguesa The Portuguese language is a meeting point for distant countries and diverse cultures, and the imposing totems on this museum’s first floor make for a brilliant visual introduction to the encounter that gave birth to Brazil’s language. Praça da Luz, Centro (3326 0775/museudalinguaportuguesa.org.br).

Metrô 1, Luz. Open Tue-Sun 10am6pm; Admission R$4; reductions free; free Sat. PORTUGUESE Pinacoteca do Estado São Paulo’s oldest, most traditional major institution was designed in 1897 by Ramos de Azevedo, and originally housed São Paulo’s first art school. Many of the most important Brazilian Modernists are on display here, Cândido Portinari, Anita Malfatti and Di Cavalcanti included.

Praça da Luz, Luz (3324 1000/pinacoteca. org.br) Metrô 1, Luz. Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; students R$3. Free to all Sat. No credit cards.

Other location Estação Pinacoteca, Largo General Osório 66, Centro (3335 4990). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission Included in Pinacoteca admission price.

Art & Museums

Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Built in 1901 and restored in 1927 as the first Banco do Brasil in São Paulo, this imposing former bank in the middle of the old city is now a cultural centre, with a café, art exhibitions, theatre and educational programmes. The cinema programme often includes engrossing retrospectives of internationally renowned directors. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/ bb.com.br/cultura). Open 10am-10pm Instituto Tomie Ohtake Housed in an imposing dark glass skyscraper intertwined with steel waves of purple and maroon, and named after the iconic Japanese-Brazilian artist, the Instituto dominates the Pinheiros skyline, and isn’t afraid to shock with challenging exhibitions. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 201, Pinheiros (2245 1900/ institutotomieohtake.org.br). Open 11am-8pm Tue-Sun. Itaú Cultural This bank-owned cultural centre stages some of the best shows in town, from standout fine art to regular exhibitions on all sorts of aspects of culture, including digital. It also has a library containing audiovisual research material as well as more traditional sources. Avenida Paulista 149, Bela Vista (2168 1777/itaucultural. org.br). Open 9am-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am8pm Sat, Sun. Museu Afro Brasil The AfroBrazil museum is, quite simply, one of the jewels in the crown of Parque do Ibirapuera. Due to its late abolition, slavery is still an open wound in Brazil’s history; and a closer look at the impressive collection of paintings, photographs and clothing in this museum emphasises the impact African culture has had, and still has, on modern Brazil. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Parque do Ibirapuera (4004 5006/museuafrobrasil.org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. FREE Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum is an imposing red concrete-and-glass box suspended on four concrete columns, which dominates Avenida Paulista.

Inside, it’s the Greatest Hits of World Art, Vols. 1-10: in short, it’s the best collection of European and Brazilian art in South America. Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/masp.art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm Thu; 10am-6pm Fri-Sun (ticket office open until half an hour before closing). Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free to all Tue. Museu da Casa Brasileira Previously owned by the Prado family, powerful local coffee barons, this beautifully preserved mansion houses a museum focused on interior design.

The collection includes furniture from the 17th to the 21st centuries, but the museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. There’s a great restaurant here, too and, on Sunday mornings, the terrace and garden are the site of free

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Shopping & Style Shopping malls

CTRL+P Metamáquina

Laura Sobenes/PRESS IMAGE

Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, one of Avenida Paulista’s most famous landmarks. This David Libeskind project from 1958 is innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops. Revamped after a fire broke out in 1978, the complex is home to the bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura, and to one of São Paulo’s best cinemas, Cine Bombril.

Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (3179 0000/ccn.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat, Sun & holidays.

Galeria do Rock A haven for rockers and emos, the Galeria do Rock is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to the various facets of the music scene. CDs, vinyl, T-shirts, accessories, flags and posters – you name it, it’s here. The bottom floor is dedicated solely to hip hop and ‘black music’, as Brazilians term it. The prices are lower than at equivalent speciality shops in other parts of the city. Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (3337 6277). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am-6.30pm MonFri; 10am-6pm Sat. Iguatemi This, the city’s oldest If, like us, your mind is still a-whirl trying to envision shopping centre, still manages to hold the possible applications of 3D printing, then pay its own in terms of sophistication and class, despite a rash of new high-class a visit to the wizard team behind Brazil’s first 3D malls. Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton printer manufacturers, Metamáquina. On Tuesdays and Ermenegildo Zegna are just some of the designer dreams on display, and Thursdays at 3pm, you can book a visit to their while Tiffany & Co has a street-front Barra Funda studio, where they’ll open your mind store on the ground floor. Check out the Brazilian high-fashion shops like Rosa to the possibilities – they count architects, doctors Chá. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and universities among their clients – while you 2232, Jardim Paulistano (3816 6116/ iguatemisaopaulo.com.br). Open 10ammarvel at their recently launched second model, the 10pm Mon-Sat, food court 11am-10pm; Metamáquina 2. Built using open-source software, and shops 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. able to print objects that measure 20 x 20 x 15 cm, it JK Iguatemi With its slick, high-shine can be yours for R$3,900. Book a visit via contato@ floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping metamaquina.com.br or 3666 4899. centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri) Pátio Higienópolis Located on a Villa-Lobos Close to Parque Villaand predictable synonyms for luxury pleasantly leafy boulevard, this mall Lobos, this mall has a good selection like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for is at first hard to distinguish from of high quality shops and restaurants. real coups like the first Brazilian the mansions and 1950s residential Check out Arezzo, which is arguably branches of Sephora, and buildings around it. It’s popular for Brazil’s best chain store for leather of London’s Topshop its branch of the high-end pizza bags and shoes (prices rarely dip and its brother brand, joint Bar des Arts, and brands below R$100 for shoes, and R$250 for Topman. Avenida like Calvin Klein and L’Occitane. bags); and look out for Folic, another Presidente Juscelino Avenida Higienópolis 618, Brazilian chain with beautifully Kubitschek 2041,Vila Higienópolis (3823 2300/ designed clothing and great bags. r e in D 0 21 Olímpia (3152 6813/ patiohigienopolis.com.br).

Avenida Das Nações Unidas 4777, ng ti a E e Se jkiguatemi.com.br).

Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro.

Alto de Pinheiros (3024 4200/ t u O Open 10.30am-11pm Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; shoppingvillalobos. com.br). Open Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am-8pm Sun & holidays.

10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 12-9pm Sun. 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at Hours at stores, bars and Hours at stores, bars and restaurants shops, bars and restaurants may vary. restaurants vary. may vary.

IN THE AREA

Markets Capitão Pinto Ferreira Street Market Of São Paulo’s many street markets, this one in Jardim Paulista, one of São Paulo’s wealthiest neighbourhoods, is particularly good.

There’s a huge range of fresh fruit and vegetables, and top quality fish. Rua Capitão Pinto Ferreira, Jardim Paulista.

Open 7.30am-12.30pm Fri. Feira de Antiguidades e Arte do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast everything from antique clocks and furniture, clothes and records to vintage watches, brooches and sunglasses.

There are also excellent food stalls selling delicacies including homemade Italian cuisine inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s version of Little Italy. Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the many things to be found at this beautiful market underneath the hulking body of the MASP. Although the prices can be quite hefty, only one-of-akind articles are purveyed here. Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da Liberdade) This weekly fair has been going since 1975, and remains one of São Paulo’s best loved Sunday passeios.

Its 240 stalls mostly compete for your stomach, with a vast range of Japanese and Chinese fast-food treats on offer at a reasonable price. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 5090).

Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun. Feira de Artes, Cultura e Lazer da Praça Benedito Calixto Surrounded by gift and furniture shops, this Saturday market sells bric-à-brac as well as antique furniture – do stay on your guard, as many goods are copies – vinyl, clothes and jewellery. Vendors’ stalls are up early and stand well into the afternoon, but try to get there before 4pm. Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto.com.br). Open 8am-7pm Sat. Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying an incredibly colourful array of fruit and vegetables. Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/mercadomunicipal.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

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16/08/13 16:43

Film The accidental ‘it’ girl of Frances Ha

‘Maybe I shouldn’t talk about this,’ says Greta Gerwig, sipping tea in a Soho hotel. Conversation has turned to how few decent roles there are for actresses in Hollywood. The careersensible thing for her to do now is keep quiet. But she pulls a what-theheck face and tells it how it is.

‘It drives me nuts. You see tip-top actresses who’ve been nominated for Oscars playing the babe role in stupid superhero movies. Those parts should go to random babes. If great actresses are taking those roles, it means there’s nothing out there.

Which is depressing.’

She talks like this, in perfect paragraphs. And she isn’t whingeing.

Like Kristen Wiig and a growing list of funny, smart actresses sick of one-dimensional girlfriend roles, Gerwig is writing her own films. In her brilliant new comedy Frances

press image

She’s friends with Lena Dunham and has discovered the best way to get a killer role is to write it for yourself. Meet Greta Gerwig, the actress everyone’s talking about.

By Cath Clarke

Smiling in the face of failure Greta Gerwig takes on the titular role of the lost lead in the comedy ‘Frances Ha’ Ha – co-written with her boyfriend, director Noah Baumbach – she gives one of the performances of the year as daffy Frances. A struggling dancer, she lives with her best friend

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‘I’ve never been fashionable or cool. I’m too sincere to be a hipster. I go to the gym and read self-help books’

Still trying to find her footing Gerwig as a struggling apprentice dancer

Sophie (Mickey Sumner) in Brooklyn – ‘like an old lesbian couple that doesn’t have sex’.

Frances is stuck in that just out of university, can’t-pay-the-rent phase. Trouble is she’s 27. Unlike Frances, Gerwig’s own twenties looked effortless. After writing and starring in tiny indie films, she became an accidental ‘it’ girl when Baumbach cast her in Greenberg with Ben Stiller. Films with Woody Allen and Whit Stillman followed. ‘I had a lot of luck early on,’ is her take on success. ‘And it never feels secure.

It always feels like it could crumble underneath you.’

Frances Ha isn’t an autobiographical film, but the emotional core of the main character comes from Gerwig’s life – the panicky, jealous feelings early in her career. ‘I think that in your twenties, envy is so central to everything. It always feels like somebody is doing it better, faster, younger.’ These days – she turns 30 soon – she’s more comfortable with who she is. ‘I was always so defensive in my early twenties. Like I needed to prove myself. Now I care less.’

She met Baumbach, who’s 43,

making Greenberg. He was married to the actress Jennifer Jason Leigh; the couple divorced not long after. Gerwig and Baumbach got together halfway through filming Frances Ha. Did dating change their professional relationship? ‘No. We work together the same way we always have. We’ve just got someone to go out to dinner with.’

Inevitably, people are comparing Frances Ha to Girls. Gerwig has been mates with Lena Dunham for years and is flattered – ‘but I think they’re totally different. Lena’s show is much more about sexuality. And my film is less directly funny.’

Like Dunham, she is officially a poster girl for hipster cool. Which is weird: ‘I’ve never been fashionable or cool. I’m too sincere to be a hipster.

I go to the gym and read self-help books.’ Hipsters don’t exercise?

‘No. I feel like a hipster girl doesn’t work at it. They just ride their old bikes around New York looking awesome. It’s summer and they’re not sweating. I sweat. And if you sweat you can’t be a hipster.’

Frances Ha is on release now.

See review, next page.

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Reviews Frances Ha

film e of th h t n o m

Film

‘I’m not a real person yet,’ blurts out Frances, who’s 27, lives in Brooklyn and has got that lurchy, what-the-hell-am-I-doing feeling about her life. Frances (Greta Gerwig) doesn’t have a proper job or a boyfriend (‘undateable’ is how she describes herself).

What she does have is a best friend, Sophie (Mickey Sumner, Sting’s daughter). ‘We’re the same person with different hair’, says Frances. They live together, hang out together and fall asleep together in Sophie’s bed watching movies (there’s nothing sexual). But Sophie is outgrowing their friendship – and when she begins dating a banker and becomes a dinner-party-girl, she ditches Frances.

The movies are full of bromances, but we hardly ever see a decent film about friendships between women (when was the last?

Bridesmaids?). This charming, drifty indie comedy, shot in gorgeous black and white, is a love story between Frances and

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Dir. Noah Baumbach, USA, 2012.

Greta Gerwig, Mickey Sumner, Adam Driver. 86 mins.

Slap-happy Gerwig (left) as Frances and Sumner as Sophie playfight in this fresh film take on female friendships

Sophie. Like Lena Dunham’s Girls, it feels totally honest. In your twenties you decide on the final version of you. Sophie is working on it; Frances is stuck in her crazy, clueless, can’t-paythe-rent stage. She’s getting it all wrong but is sweetly cocky – a kooky clumsy cool girl in the

tradition of Annie Hall.

The script, co-written by Gerwig and her boyfriend Noah Baumbach (who directs), is full of spiky-real one-liners – like this, when someone compares Frances to Sophie: ‘Are you older than her? You have an older face.’ You’ve got to love

Gerwig for writing lines like that for herself. If you’ve not seen her in a film before, you will walk out of Frances Ha having watched your new favourite actress. Cath Clarke Frances Ha (Frances Ha) is released on 16 August.

The Internship

fox filmes/press image

Dir. Shawn Levy, USA, 2013.

Owen Wilson, Vince Vaughn, Will Ferrell. 119 mins.

Puzzlingly bad Wilson (left) and Vaughn in a weak product-placement comedy

Thanks to his unvaryingly untucked insouciance, Vince Vaughn appears to be slouching toward mass ignominy. But in truth he’s been hustling of late, having taken up screenwriting and penned three recent snark-coms, including this dispiriting reteam with fellow Wedding Crasher Owen Wilson. Vaughn’s Billy is a smooth-talking salesman who, alongside his chummy partner Nick, finds himself professionally obsolete. As quickly as you can mutter ‘high concept’, the techilliterate duo charm their way into age-inappropriate internships at Google, where, thanks to old-school moxie and Hollywood shorthand, they show nerds how to party and become patron saints of second chances.

The Internship is all too eager to affirm the go-bro status quo, and so as not to alienate any multiplexgoer, the film’s brainy young interns are made out to be cuddly Big Bang Theory-ish cartoons – the tiger mama’s boy, the cosplay-curious virgin. Nothing surprises here, save the ease with which Bridesmaids standout Rose Byrne is sidelined as an ornamental love interest and the unabashedness of the film’s teatsuck brand worship. Supersizing product placement to the level of full-on corporate sponsorship, director Shawn Levy envisions the internet giant’s Bay Area compound as an amusement park Shangri-La of gleaming surfaces and unlimited refills. Alas, such kowtowing is indicative of a movie sorely bereft of ideas, laughs and justification for the comic duo’s undifferentiating self-regard. Eric Hynes The Internship (Os Estagiários) is released on 30 August.

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warner bros/press image

The Conjuring

Retro-styled scare tactics ‘The Conjuring’ successfully incorporates the often-forgotten tropes of horror classics

So much is thrown at us by today’s hyperventilating horror

that stillness has become the scariest move. Actually, that’s always been the case, but it takes a retro-fashioned winner like The Conjuring to remind us that if the creaky, old house ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Styled like a forgotten Nixon-era classic and set in the

autumn of 1971, James Wan’s latest sheds all traces of Cabin in the Woods snark: no cell phones, natch, but no sarcasm either, as based-on-real-life heroes Lorraine and Ed Warren (Vera Farmiga and Patrick Wilson), a married pair of self-described demonologists,

Film

Dir. James Wan, USA, 2013.

Vera Farmiga, Patrick Wilson, Mackenzie Foy, Lili Taylor, Ron Livingston. 112 mins.

deliver a college lecture about possession to a respectful class of longhairs. (Even they haven’t seen The Exorcist yet.)

A famous case in Amityville is still a while off for the Warrens when they’re approached by Carolyn (Lili Taylor), mother of five girls, who begs for some paranormal assistance: It seems her family’s rural home, recently occupied, is yielding far too many bumps in the night for the typical fixer-upper. You know the setup from Poltergeist, but this film’s commitment to drawn-out shivers feels almost radical: Children’s games of ‘hide and clap’ yield unwelcome participants; a spooky jack-in-the-box found on a dusty shelf springs the unexplainable.

Wan cut his teeth on the first Saw and 2010’s half-realised Insidious, but he’s clearly been hiding an inner Val Lewton, attuned to lingering pauses.

And like the wood-grained farmhouse itself – a beautiful piece of production design by Julie Berghoff – The Conjuring has an analogue solidity that makes the terror to come almost unbearable.

Joshua Rothkopf The Conjuring (Invocação do Mal) is released on 13 September.

White House Down

Olympus has fallen again! A seemingly mundane day for our commander in chief, James Sawyer (Jamie Foxx), turns nearapocalyptic when hostile forces blow up the Capitol building and take over the White House.

The TV talking heads start pontificating: Could it be those damn Arabs? Nope, merely a group of disgruntled American militants led by a traitorous government operative (James Woods), who are out for vengeance and a huge payday. Fortunately, low-rung Secret Service agent John Cale (Channing Tatum) is on the premises. He quickly teams up with the more-resourceful-than-he-looks POTUS, and both of ’em start showing these unpatriotic bastards a bullet-riddled thing or two.

There should be a special kind of charge in seeing even a

fictional leader of the free world brandishing a comically oversize rocket launcher (expect plenty of ‘O-BLAM!-a’ memes to surface on ye ol’ Interwebz). But director Roland Emmerich has been to this self-mockingly jingoistic well way too often. What played as rousingly dumb fun in Independence Day (1996) – all those pie-eyed nationalistic monologues, and US. landmarks reduced to rubble – now come off as callously insensitive, even with tongue firmly in cheek.

It doesn’t help that all the action scenes, as with many modern Hollywood blockbusters, are seemingly edited with a Cuisinart, or that the copious CGI would barely pass muster in one of those Asylum DTV quickies.

Cheap, shoddy, dull, instantly forgettable – this is the America, and American cinema, we know all too well. Keith Uhlich White House Down (O Ataque) is released on 6 September.

sony pictures/press image

Dir. Roland Emmerich, USA, 2013. Channing Tatum, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Jamie Fox 137 mins.

Bearing arms In this disposable action flick, even the president packs heat

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Main cinemas

Box-fresh Brazilian film on DVD

How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

Film

PRESS IMAGE

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Cine Olido Cine Olido stays eclectic year-round, often hosting film festivals.

Avenida São João 473, Centro (3397 0171/galeriaolido.sp.gov.br). Metrô 3, República. 1 screen, 236 seats. Tickets R$1; R$0.50 reductions. No credit cards.

Playarte Marabá Open from 1944 to 2007, this theatre reopened its doors in 2009. It was once known as the only survivor of the ‘cinelândia’ – downtown area of São Paulo that housed many theatres in the mid 20th century. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Ipiranga 757, Centro (5053 6881/playartepictures.com. br). Metrô 3, República. 5 screens, 122430 seats. Tickets R$4.50-$19.

As many failed rock biopics have proven, a good story doesn’t guarantee a successful film. Unfortunately for Somos Tão Jovens, the telling of the early days of Brasília’s best-known rock vocalist, Renato Russo of the legendary band Legião Urbana (who died in 1996), is out of tune throughout, as director Antonio Carlos da Fontoura employs all of the genre’s usual riffs. Still, the film will undoubtedly strike a chord with fans of the band.

Somos Tão Jovens is released on DVD on 7 August.

Consolação & Higienópolis Cinemark Pátio Higienópolis This cinema, inside the Shopping Pátio Higienópolis mall, has a good projection system with seats at a steep enough gradient that you’ll always get a good view, even when the cinema is packed.

Screens mainstream films. Avenida Higienópolis 646, Higienópolis (3823 2875/cinemark.com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. 6 screens, 98-264 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; R$8-$11 reductions. 3D film tickets R$26-$28; R$3-$4 reductions.

Espaço Itaú de Cinema Augusta This cinema is divided into two spaces on either side of Rua Augusta. If you arrive before the movie showtime, visit the small bookstore located on the odd numbered side of the street, which holds many cultural works and has a good café. Rua Augusta 1470 and 1475, Consolação (3288 6780/itaucinemas. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 5 screens, 51-263 seats. Tickets R$14-$22; R$7$11 reductions; R$10-$20.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations, with some screens available for 3D films.

Priority is given to blockbusters though cult films are sometimes shown on the smaller screens. Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa (3024 3851/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18-

Museu da Imagem e do Som This cinema is located inside the MIS – the Museum of Image and Sound. The stark, concrete, white building in Jardins houses an impressive archive of films, videos, photos and musical compositions, and hosts innovative temporary exhibitions and concerts.

Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br). 2 screens, 66-177 seats. Tickets R$ 4; R$2 reductions.

$24; R$9-$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28.

Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37; R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues.

It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE CINUSP Paulo Emílio A small cinema at the heart of the University of São Paulo campus, CINUSP shows free films to an audience of movie buffs.

Rua do Anfiteatro 181, Colméia Favo 4, Cidade Universitária, Butantã (3091 3540/usp.br/cinusp). 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

Jardins Playarte Bristol Located on the top floors of Shopping Center 3, Playarte Bristol has large screening rooms (more long than wide), and is a good option for passing a couple hours while waiting for traffic on Avenida Paulista to let up. Screens mainstream films. Shopping Center 3, Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3289 0509/ playartepictures.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 7 screens, 115-444 seats.

Tickets R$19-$23; R$9,50-$11.50 reductions.

Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100300 seats. Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions.

Cinemark Iguatemi With the classic Cinemark layout including comfortable armchairs and good quality image and sound projection, this cinema, on the top floor of Shopping Iguatemi, has standard and 3D sceenings of mostly mainstream films. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Iguatemi Shopping, Jardim Paulistano (3815 8713/cinemark. com.br). 6 screens, 129-266 seats.

Tickets R$6-$28; R$3-$14 reductions; 3D films R$28-$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions.

Cinépolis JK Opened in 2012 in the swish JK Iguatemi shopping mall, this cinema is all about luxury – of its eight screening rooms, six are VIP. The other two aren’t too shabby, either: one uses Imax technology and the other, with 4D capacity, can use up to 20 special effects to enhance the viewing experience. It doesn’t come cheap though ­– tickets are are much as R$68. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, 4th floor, Vila Olímpia (3152 6605/jk.cinepolis.com.br).

8 screens, 67-382 seats. Tickets R$34$68; R$17-$34 reductions.

Kinoplex Itaim Housed in the Brascan complex, this cinema is located near a food court with a great variety of restaurants as well as a number of bars for longer nights out. The screens have comfortable armchairs with adjustable head and armrests. You’ll find mostly mainstream films here. Rua Joaquim Floriano 466, Itaim Bibi (3131 2004/kinoplex.com.br). 6 screens, 155312 seats. Tickets R$10-$26; R$5-$13 reductions; 3D films R$28-$31; R$14$15,50 reductions.

Kinoplex Vila Olímpia Considered one of the best in town, this cinema, inside Shopping Vila Olímpia, screens mainstream movies and is spotlessly clean, with comfortable screening rooms and friendly staff. Rua Olimpíadas 360, Vila Olímpia (3131 2006/kinoplex.com. br). 7 screens, 98-189 seats. Tickets R$22-$53; R$11-$26.50 reductions.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Centro Cultural São Paulo – Sala Lima Barreto This intimate cinema is part of a large building that also houses theatre, music and dance programmes, and art exhibitions. Established in 1982, the Centro Cultural was one of the city’s first cultural centres, and its library, the second largest in the city, has excellent art and Braille sections.

The cinema has a second screen with an additional 100 seats as of January 2013.

Screenings are at a token cost (R$1).

Rua Vergueiro 1000, Paraíso (3397 4054/centrocultural.sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE Sala Cinemateca This former slaughterhouse, a beautiful brick building with a garden in its interior patio, houses an important Brazilian film archive and an arthouse cinema that hosts events from the Mostra Internacional de Cinema de São Paulo, the city’s international film festival.

Largo Senador Raul Cardoso 207, Vila Mariana (3512 6111/cinemateca.gov. br). 2 screens, 108-210 seats. Tickets R$8; R$4 reductions.

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Gay & Lesbian Listings

Bars

LGBT film of the month

‘Bar da Lôca’ The always-crowded ‘bar on the corner’ is actually the neighbourhood bakery-cum-watering hole officially named Bar Tom Zé. Its proximity to nearby club A Lôca turned it into the club’s unofficial waiting room. The crowd is mixed, sheltering twinks, bears and closet cases. It’s often standing-room only. Rua Frei Caneca 106, Consolação (3256 1946). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Espaço Caê On Saturday and Sunday afternoons at this friendly spot, there’s a live samba band followed by samba rock, axé and funk. But it’s the Thursday and Friday nights that draw the big crowds, for one reason only: karaoke. Rua Aurora 737, Centro (3852 5637/espacocae.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 7pm-midnight Thu; 7pm-1am Fri; 8.30pm-1am Sat; 7pmmidnight Sun. Prices can of beer R$4; caipirinha R$7. Cover R$10.

How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions.

Clubs A Lôca If the image of Alice in Wonderland’s Queen of Hearts as the club’s logo doesn’t say it all, then the names of the parties – Tapa na Pantera (Brazilian slang for getting high) and Loucuras – Portuguese for madness – say the rest. Things can get crazy in this cavernous space where techno and pop music keeps the crowd dancing. Rua Frei Caneca 916, Consolação (3159 8889/ aloca.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open midnight-7am Thu-Sat; 8pm-6am Sun. Admission R$25.

ABC Bailão This is a favourite with the over-50s crowd and its admirers.

The music ranges from romantic ballads and vintage pop to sertanejo (Brazilian country music) and axé (Bahian music).

Rua Marquês de Itu 182, República (3361 7964/abcbailao.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 9pm-3am Thu; 11pm-5am Fri, Sat; 9pm-3am Sun. Admission R$15-$20.

Blue Space The tea dance at this spot culminates with the funniest drag shows in town – and some of the hottest go-go boys. Most of the stage productions, which have inspired a cult following on YouTube, are so elaborate they could teach Cher a thing or two about costume changes. The crowd is mixed: postadolescents share space with muscle marys. Rua Brigadeiro Galvão 723, Barra Funda (3666 1616/bluespace.com. br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. Admission R$20-$28.

Bubu Lounge On Fridays, this club can get crowded and it can get hot, in every way imaginable. Get there early to avoid the queue, but once inside, be ready for some action, with hip beats in the entrance lounge, house and electronic on the dancefloor, and shake-your-booty songs upstairs. Once a month, there’s Bubu Só Para Elas: ladies only. Bubu Lounge, Rua dos Pinheiros 791, Pinheiros (3081 9659/bubulounge.com.br). Open 11.30pm-late Wed-Sat: 7pm-late Sun. Admission R$10-$60.

imagem filmes/PRESS IMAGE

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

The much-praised US film Reaching for the Moon is set against a sumptuous Rio background, and kicks off in 1951, when the poet Elizabeth Bishop (Miranda Otto) travels from her native New York to Rio de Janeiro to visit a college friend, Mary. The shy but poised Bishop both antagonises and attracts Mary’s partner, the flamboyant architect Lota de Macedo Soares (Glória Pires), and the women become lovers, in a volatile relationship that spans two decades. It’s a visually lush film, with incandescent performances from its two stars.

Reaching for the Moon (Flores Raras) is on release now.

Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings.

The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35.

Glória This club used to be a church, but on Fridays it’s fashionista Sin City.

It attracts classy crowds thanks to its opulent decor, with beds, mirrors and champagne bars. Expect a flamboyant crowd. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/clubegloria.com.br). Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Admission R$10-$50.

The L Club In this girls’ club, you get all sorts: from Ellen DeGeneres and Portia de Rossi types to everything in

between. On Friday’s, there’s live MPB in the outside lounge area, but the main dance floor rocks with tribal house. Rua Luís Murat 370, Vila Madalena (2604 3393/thelclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am Fridays only. Admission R$15-$20.

The Society The owner of The Week recently opened this plush, clubhouse-style nightspot, and it doesn’t disappoint, with a cosy dancefloor downstairs and a gauzy, carpeted lounge area upstairs. Here, shirts stay on, with DJ Paulo Pacheco spinning pop faves. Rua Marquês de Paranaguá 329, Consolação (3154 1669/thesociety. com.br). Open midnight-late Fri; 9pm-late Sun. Admission R$60-$80.

The Week This party is what every other club (gay or straight) is trying to copy. It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with summer-season clones in Rio and Florianópolis, and an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/theweek.com.br). Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$60-$80.

Out & about RESTAURANT Bella Paulista Casa de Pães Brightly lit and always crowded, this 24-hour bakery-cum-restaurant is a gay institution. From early evening to th e wee hours of the morning, party-goers and TV stars hob-nob and flirt over tasty sandwiches, pastas and pastries. The service, however, can be patchy. Rua Haddock Lobo 354, Consolação (3214 3347/bellapaulista. com). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 24 hours daily.

SAUNA Splash 720 Inaugurated in December 2011, Splash 720 is a venue solely for the gay crowd, and a very handy option for people leaving the nearby nightclub The Week, but who want to keep the party going. Splash features a heated swimming pool and about 40 private rooms (singles and doubles). You need to book either a room or a locker in order to get in. Rua Guaicurus 720, Lapa (4329 0204/ splash720.com.br). Open 24 hours daily Prices Locker rental R$30; single room R$75; double room R$146.

SHOP Shopping Frei Caneca The cruisiest mall on Earth.

Probably. Consolação (3472 2000/ freicanecashopping.com). See Shopping & Style for venue details.

SPORT SP Gay Bikers Brazil’s first gay cycling group does weekly weekend bike rides around town and sometimes outside the city. The only requirements: that you should be over 18 years of age, have your own bicycle, and wear a helmet. If it rains, the ride is cancelled.

Meet 10am Sun, Greengrocer fruit shop, Praça Cordeiro de Farias, Consolação (sp-gay-bikers.blogspot.com). FREE

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19/08/13 13:12

Music & Nightlife Interview: Herbie Hancock

Album reviews

The stellar jazz musician talks to Roseanne Hanley about taking risks and working for the UN

Pet Shop Boys Electric (x2)

Talking of transformations, you have been through many in your career, taking risks to explore new projects. Do you think you have to take risks to become successful?

Yeah. I think risk-taking is a great adventure. And life should be full of adventures. If you wanna go through life skating along when everything is just nice and just pleasant it’s gonna be a very dull life – and that’s not the kind of life I want to have. How can you learn courage if you haven’t taken chances? If you haven’t put yourself out on a limb. That’s what makes things exciting, when you try things you haven’t tried before and do things that you believe in, even if nobody else does. Figure out a way

Douglas Kirkland/press image

You’ve been playing for more than fifty years so will know better than most … were there really any ‘good old days of jazz’ back in the day?

Back in the day for me was a great time in my life – I was in my twenties.

Most people refer to their experiences in their twenties as being a highlight in their life. It’s a period of time where you often develop your own way, your own sound, your own identity, and that happened with me, when I was with a great teacher – Miles Davis. But these are great times too.

I mean I could point to any of the five decades I’ve been playing in as having fine experiences; many of them have been transformational.

Key changer After fifty years in jazz, Hancock turns his attention to tolerance to make it work – that’s how you become a winner.

You are a UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador – how do you think music, jazz, culture can affect change and make a real impact on the mission for world peace?

One of music’s functions can be entertainment, but that isn’t the only function that it can have. It can also affect the human heart and it can encourage and heal people. There’s data that can attest to that. This concept of being an ambassador fortunately doesn’t require that I confine myself in the position to

music either. I also wanna have symposiums about conflict and about how we very often demonise cultures and ideas outside of that which comes from our own and that is what can create problems. Anything that I can do to encourage the elevation of the concept of desiring to become a global citizen is the goal that I have as a goodwill ambassador to UNESCO. Herbie Hancock plays at Credicard Hall, Avenida das Nações Unidas 17955, Santo Amaro (4003 5588/credicard.com.br/credicardhall) at 9.30pm on 22 August. Tickets R$40-$450.

Alternately scintillating and smirking, Pet Shop Boys’ 12th album marks a ‘return to the dancefloor’ for the veteran synth-pop pair, and an almighty raising of the tempo after last year’s polite Elysium.

Anticipation has been high, largely because – some live performances aside – the PSB’s prolific last decade has been a little dry in the fun stakes.

And Electric undeniably sounds like it was an absolute hoot for Neil Tennant, Chris Lowe and producer Stuart Price to make. At its lightest, it’s a rollicking electro mess around, painted in bold shades of contemporary chart-pop and knowing ’80s-isms. Tracks like the sinuous ‘Axis’ and vocodor-ific ‘Shouting in the Evening’ are great, trashy fun… yet it’s hard to feel wholly invested.

Much of Electric feels like the ordinarily deadpan duo have curated a series of modern ideas that amuse them, rather than created the best songs within their power.

Nothing wrong with a bit of dilettantism, but Electric’s more earnest songs are patently its best.

‘Love Is a Bourgeois Construct’ is wonderful, a sweetly poignant ditty about an embittered socialist, and the brooding electro one-two of ‘Fluorescent’ and ‘Inside a Dream’ feel more convincing than the forced euphoria on display elsewhere.

The Pet Shop Boys can cut it on the dancefloor – but that’s not actually why we fell for them in the first place. Andrzej Lukowski

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How would you define jazz today?

Well, jazz has been defined in a lot of different ways. One thing that sticks in my mind is that jazz means freedom and openness. It’s a music that, although it developed out of the African American experience, speaks more about the human experience than the experience of a particular people. You know, like it’s ability to take sometimes the worst of circumstances and challenges of life and turning them into something of beauty and creativity. So it has continued to evolve over the years.

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Live previews

Daughn Gibson

Beyoncé

After Rock in Rio, Queen B. heads straight for SP, says CM Gorey Despite the hordes of international musicians set to converge on one of the world’s largest music festivals, Rock in Rio (13-15 and 19-22 September), paulistano audiences needn’t feel left out: headliners like

Bruce Springsteen (18 September), Iron Maiden (20 September) and John Bon Jovi (21 September) are stretching out their Brazil trips to perform here in São Paulo as well.

But the first major player to arrive is the US pop superstar Beyoncé, who brings her Louis XVI-themed Mrs. Carter Show World Tour to town in all its costume-changing, multiple-staging glory.

Just how big is this show? The

Beyoncé plays at Estádio do Morumbi, Praça Roberto Gomes Pedrosa 1, Morumbi (3749 8000/ livepass.com.br) at 7.30pm on 15 September. Tickets R$90-$630.

Beach House Having built a reputation for their atmospheric songs, the two-piece materialise in São Paulo With their unapologetically ethereal, ephemeral dream pop, the US duo Beach House floats into town to take to the stage of Cine Joia in their first show for Brazilian audiences. Breaking through with Teen Dream in 2010, the Baltimore band attracted still more interest with its most recent effort, Bloom (2012), managing to satisfy the indie crowd and music journalists alike with its more elaborate arrangements, albeit never straying very far from their initial aesthetic.

The vocalist and keyboard player Victoria Legrand’s airy voice continues to invite comparisons to singers like Elizabeth Fraser of the

Scottish band Cocteau Twins and the icy deadpan of Nico. They’re comparisons which are backed up

by Legrand’s ability to imbue the songs’ major key melodies with a deep, underlying sadness, and by her vaguely hopeful lyrics, which leave questions hanging in the air over the dulcet reverberating guitar tones of Alex Scally, generating a kind of distant ambience. It’s an updated, shoegazy sound that feels like an invitation to audiences to completely lose themselves in the music – but beware: it may take a certain level of emotional maturity and physical fortitude to endure all that celestial, head-nodding beauty in a venue with no seats. CM Gorey Beach House plays at Cine Joia, Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv) on 28 August, 11.30pm. Tickets R$90-$180.

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Wife, mother, bootyshaker Beyoncé in one of her many glamourous outfits

numbers tell the tale: her wardrobe has been created by over a dozen designers, and boasts a gold bodysuit encrusted with 30,000 Swarovski crystals, while Stuart Weitzman fashioned nearly fifty pairs of footwear for the Grammy-amassing singer. Ten dancers trained by fifteen choreographers will step beside her, while her eleven-piece, all-female band Suga Mama, provides the necessary finesse to persevere through the two-dozen songs from Beyoncé’s catalogue of mega-hits.

The diva, who established herself in the Houston, Texas-based girl group Destiny’s Child, surpassed the success of her former band with four solo albums that yielded some of the best-known singles of the last ten years. All those charttoppers dominate her show’s music selection, but she still draws heavily from 2011’s 4. The self-proclaimed feminist who saw nothing peculiar about naming her tour after the fact that she’s Jay-Z’s wife, trots out many of her woman-empowering tracks such as the hard-thumping ‘Run the World (Girls)’ and the no-tears breakup ballad, ‘Irreplaceable’.

Music & Nightlife

Is he a country singer? Is he a gothrocker? Is he an electronic knobtwiddler? Is that even his real name?

Yes, yes, yes – and no. Josh Martin named himself after Nashville icon Don Gibson, but he might just as well have called himself Knack Cave, because it’s impossible to separate out just one strand from his muscular blend of guitars and fiddles, beats and bass, and creepy baritone vocals.

Me Moan is Gibson’s second album, and comes out just over a year after his debut, All Hell. Last time we heard from him, he was crate-digging in Philadelphia record shops and stitching together oddly-matched samples (country, gospel, alt rock), then crooning like Johnny Cash over the results. On Me Moan, everything is bigger. The baritone is still there, but expanded from Cash only to a groaning, wailing one-man choir. The pick-and-mix of musical elements is even more mind-boggling: ‘Mad Ocean’ packs in bagpipes and glitchy drums, while ‘Won’t You Climb’ accompanies a keyboard solo with syrupy strings that’d be at home on a classic Perry Como number. Weirdest of all, perhaps, is ‘The Pisgee Nest’, a creepy-as-hell tale of small-town prostitution which kicks off like a dub remix of Snoop Dogg’s ‘Gin and Juice’ before a bent-out-of-shape guitar line ushers the verse in.

What makes Me Moan special, though, is the thing which prevents all of these elements from falling apart. Gibson is a top-class songwriter and producer, with the ability both to write a killer hook and to make sure it sinks in by giving it the space it needs. Just take the galloping, key-changing chorus on ‘The Sound of Law’ that comes out of nowhere, or the poignant, acoustic ‘All My Days Off’. If you took away the bass, the beats and the bagpipes, Me Moan would still be a solid listen. As it is, it’s pretty much indispensable. James Manning

press image

Me Moan (Sub Pop)

Lofty Beach House’s melodies soar

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Nightclubs Eco-extreme fest Electrance How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots.

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Eclectic

Music & Nightlife

Leonardo Sales/PRESS IMAGE

Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wallto-wall MPB. Stylishly decorated and with a haphazard, beatnik vibe, Alberta #3 might be small, but its three-floor The eighth edition of the electronic music festival split works well, with a busy dancefloor down in the basement. Rock up for Electrance, held 30km from downtown SP on the happy hour (6-10pm), when admission outskirts of São Bernardo do Campo, goes both is free, including on Saturday nights, when you may need to queue – so factor environmental and vertical: the organisers have taken in the wait if you’re planning to save pains to diminish the event’s carbon footprint, and have on the entry fee. Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br). incorporated a half-pipe showcasing skateboarders and Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late freestyling BMXers. The main draw, though, remains the Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm). music, distributed across three stages and featuring Bar SecretoThis isn’t exactly a bar, a lineup of international producers and DJs headlined in spite of its name – it’s definitely a balada, or nightclub. But set in a discreet by the German veteran Chris Liebing. Electrance is at corner of Pinheiros close to the FNAC Estrada Névio Carlone 3, Riacho Grande, São Bernardo bookstore, Bar Secreto does, on the other hand, have a slightly secretive air about do Campo (4317 3108/electrance.com.br). 10pm, 31 it. You can’t call, for example – contact is August; 6pm, 1 September. R$80-110. only via email. The guest list is carefully managed by the hostess on the door; and some nights, a secret password gives entry a little extra frisson. All very well Lions This downtown club in a 1950s tourists, clubbers and whoever else is – if your name’s on the list. Once you’re building has a slightly exclusive air, still awake in the edgy downtown party in, you’ll find a candle-lit room with a with high ceilings and decor inspired by zone lets loose until the early hours. For piano, leather couches, chandeliers and 19th-century gentlemen’s clubs, right the unitiated, forking out for a table may lots of paintings on the walls, and a down to the stuffed animal heads on be a wise manoeuvre, both for the VIP soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and the walls. There’s no red carpet outside escort through the throng and the prime electronic. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros though, nor even a sign, so note down view of the podiums – possibly the most (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm-5am Tuethe address before you head out. Inside, fascinating people-watching opportunity Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; you’ll find two dancefloors; but the in town. Rua Araújo 232, República caipirinha R$22; cover R$80. real star of the show is the (3231 3101/danceterialovestory.tur.br).

Caos In a compact little space terrace, shared by smokers Metrô 3, República. Open midnight-late on Baixo Augusta, Caos crams and non-smokers alike, Mon-Sat. Prices cover R$60. in more of everything than from which you can gaze most bars. More fun-loving over at the Catedral da customers, bumping elbows ous Sé. For a downtown at the bar or packed tight on crumpti Electronica s A joint, and though there the dancefloor. More eclectic Geisha il are nights here for most Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the DJ sets. And more – well, ta k c co tastes, it attracts its fair summer heat at this 1950s house-turnedtat, with walls and shelves share of playboys and young club, or sit by a real log fire when the brimming with momentoes heiresses – the most expensive nights turn cold. Exploring the house from the ’80s and ’90s, from night is Thursday’s Groovelicious, when and its quirky decor is all part of the film posters to telephones and door the place bumps with hip hop, soul experience, from the kitchen with its knobs – all for sale during the day, too. and funk. For the gay-friendly crowd, retro fridge and saucepan lids on the Even the ceilings aren’t spared, with Ultralions on Fridays is a highlight. walls to the sofas and family portraits a bicycle and Lord knows what else Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, side-by-side with the DJ decks in the suspended over the convivial crowd.

Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com. living room. The action is out the back, Shoulder your way to the bar and order br). Open midnight-6am Tue, Thu-Sat. where media types and rich kids flit up a beer or a Geisha – a grape-and-lychee, Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha and down the steps between two treesaké-and-green-tea delight. Rua Augusta R$18; cover R$30-$120. covered courtyards, each with its own 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584.

Love Story Love Story isn’t about the bar and dancefloor. DJs spin everything com.br). Open 7pm-2am Tue-Fri; music – it’s about a decadent party that from electro rock and ‘80s disco to house.

9pm-2am Sat; 7pm-2am Sun. Prices doesn’t get going until well after 2.30am, Members and VIPs even have their own chope R$6; caipirinha R$15.90; cover when party animals, off–duty hookers, exclusive ‘house next door’, Casa da R$20-$40

GO FOR

Familia, which opened last year, and is open to all on Wednesday nights.

Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92.blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50.

D–Edge D–Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace.

The crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours. Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Open midnight-7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; cover R$20-$80.

Disco To describe Disco as an upmarket operation would be to run it down. Put it this way, Gisele Bundchen and Naomi Campbell have both been seen here. This club is a favourite with the city’s young, beautiful and rich, although it’s quite small and often beyond crowded, so it might take a little patience until you find your spot out there on the dancefloor.

Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/clubdisco.com.br).

Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

Indie & rock Estúdio Emme Tending to attract a younger crowd, Estúdio Emme incorporates a boutique, salon, bookshop (alright – a bookshelf) and a live venue and performance space. Dance till dawn on its spacious dancefloor, where DJs may be spinning anything from indie to disco. The crowd gets friskier with each drink – go for the delicious Apple Fizz or the Emme Shot to find out why. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 1036, Pinheiros (3814 7383/estudioemme.com.br).

Open 10pm-6am Wed; 11.30pm-6am Thu-Sat. Prices can of beer R$7; cover R$20-$50.

Funhouse Set in a house in the typical style of this neighbourhood, Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club. It may take your eyes a few moments to adjust to the dark space, but once your night vision kicks in you’ll make out the bar straight ahead, stairs to the right, and a long curtain to the left. Head upstairs to the chillout area where pretty young girls and boys serve drinks to patrons on sofas.

Downstairs behind the curtain, you’ll find a little black box of a dancefloor where they might be blaring electro dance music, pop anthems, hard rock, or funk carioca. Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/funhouse.com. br). Open 10pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50.

Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno, down towards the bottom end of busy Baixo Augusta. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres, like funk, get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Escape to the mezzanine for a bird’s-eye view. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/ infernoclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

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Music venues Classical Sala São Paulo One of the most celebrated concert halls in Latin America, Sala São Paulo was constructed in a Louis XVI-style 1938 train station and redesigned as a cultural centre and concert hall. Praça Júlio Prestes 16, Luz (3367 9500/ salasaopaulo.art.br). Open box office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri or before concert; 10am-4.30pm Sat on performance days; 2hrs before concert Sun. Prices R$20-$110.

MPB Grazie a Dio! This medium-sized, unpretentious, and charming place is one of the best live venues in São Paulo to hear great musicians play samba, samba rock and MPB. Get close, dance, and smell the sweat – or sit out back and have dinner. There’s live music Tuesday-Sunday nights, but Friday nights with the excellent samba rock combo Clube de Balanço, are recommended. On Sundays, Marquinho Dikuã, one of São Paulo’s leading sambistas, puts on a fiery show with the Sambasonics. Rua Girassol 67, Vila Madalena (3031 6568/grazieadio.com. br). Open 8pm-late Tue-Sun; shows 10pm Tue, Wed; 11pm Thu-Sun. Prices cover R$15-$25; small bottle beer R$4.40; caipirinha R$10.40.

Rock & indie

e Instituto Alfa de Cultura presents

Trisha Brown Dance Company Farewell tour company.

A tribute to the grand dame of American dance.

Samba Bar Brahma Bar Brahma is a São Paulo institution for its line-up of live samba, MPB, choro and jazz. Avenida São João 677, República (3333 3030/ barbrahmasp.com). Metrô 3, República.

Open 11am-late daily. Shows 10.30pm weekdays; 2pm & 9pm Sat; 1.30pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.10-$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50-$19.20; cover R$10-$68. Ó do Borogodó This compact space is the best samba venue in town if you love to dance, drink and sing along from Monday through Saturday. On Mondays, Gafieira Nacional come highly recommended for their purist musical aplomb, and Wednesdays are rammed for Dona Inah and her group.

Rua Horácio Lane 21, Pinheiros (3814 4087). Open 9pm-3am Mon-Fri; 1pm-3am Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices cover R$15-$20; chope R$5-$6; caipirinha R$7.50-$9.50.

Pau Brasil Bar Walk into the body heat of this packed little hole-in-thewall bar, named after the pau-Brasil (Brazilwood) tree out front, and you may feel like you’ve discovered São Paulo’s most authentic Brazilian boteco. And you might even be right. This hidden gem in Pinheiros offers an excellent roda de samba (samba circle), with Tuesday’s roda featuring exclusively São Paulo samba. Rua Inácio Pereira da Rocha 54, Vila Madalena (3816 1494). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 10pm-late WedSun. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50$6.50; caipirinha R$10; cover R$7-$10.

Vila do Samba This no-frills joint specialises in live ‘roots’ samba, played in a ring in the middle of a big, comfy yard. The audience, mainly twenty-somethings, know their music and come to dance. Saturday has feijoada; Sundays churrasco. Rua João Rudge 340, Casa Verde (3858 6641/ viladosamba.com.br). Open TueThu 8pm-2.30am; Fri 9pm-4am; Sat 1-11.30pm; Sun 2-11pm. Prices 600ml beer R$5.50; caipirinha R$10.

Sertanejo/Country Villa Country This country music theme park features a faux-rustic saloon, restaurant, clothes shop, bars, dancefloors and down-home Brazilian country music – sertanejo – everywhere.

Try it: you might like it. Live bands every night from midnight are the Vila Country Band and Anderson e Alyson.

Avenida Francisco Matarazzo 774, Barra Funda (3868 5858/villacountry. com.br). Metrô 7, 8 or 3, Barra Funda.

Open restaurant from 8pm daily; bars & dancefloors 11pm-late daily; shows from midnight daily. Prices cover R$20-$35; can beer R$5; caipirinha R$10-$16.

13th to 15th September Friday, 9:30 p.m. | Saturday, 8:00 p.m.

Sunday, 6:00 p.m.

Music & Nightlife

Beco 203 From rock to electro, go nuts with the fantastic Brazilian and international – mainly rock – bands that take the stage at the paulistano branch of the Porto Alegre nightspot.

Indie kids, hipsters and rockers mix on the crowded dance floor, while the upstairs mezzanine provides a calmer view of the stage. Rua Augusta, 609, Consolação(2339 0351/beco203. com.br). Open midnight-late WedSun. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$14; cover R$20-$40.

Café Aurora Located in the alwayshappening Bixiga section of Bela Vista, this house is a hot spot for rock lovers.

The bar, small dancefloor – where the live shows take place – and relaxing lounge give it a homely feel. Rua Treze de Maio 112, Bela Vista (3237 1247/ cafeaurora.com.br). Open 8.30pm-late Tue-Sun Prices R$25-$40.

Cine Joia This former cinema close to the Praça da Sé is the newest jewel in the crown of São Paulo’s alternative music scene. Lovingly restored, it opened its doors in 2011, revealing to the world a diamond-shaped bar, elegantly sloping parquet floors (promoting good views, even from the back) and a top-notch video-mapping system. So far, the lineups of arty indie have been as disarming as the stunning mosaic façade outside, with the only let-down being a slightly feeble PA. Praça Carlos Gomes, 82, Liberdade (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv). Open 9pm-

late, days vary – check website Metrô 1 Liberdade. Prices small bottle beer R$8; vodka with cranberry juice, R$16.

Inferno Club Located on the Rua Augusta strip, the club has a wide dance-floor and a big stage for eclectic shows and DJs, although rock is the speciality. Try hanging out on the mezzanine to get a full view of the action. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/infernoclub.com.br). Open 11pm-late Thur-Sun. Prices R$10-$30.

R. Bento Branco de Andrade Filho, 722 - Santo Amaro TICKET OFFICE: 11 5693.4000 e 0300 789 33 77 www.teatroalfa.com.br

patrocínio

apoio

realização

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Football & World Cup 2014 Continental drift Championship, the 2012 FIFA Club World Cup, and the Paulista Championship of 2013.

Currently competing in the Brazilian Championship, these two São Paulo state teams are looking to restructure game strategies after losing key players. Santos should have more work, because it depended more on Neymar. The team was essentially ‘Neymar’s Santos’, while Corinthians, although relying greatly on Paulinho, was never a one-player-team; a full team effort was its main strength.

Despite this, Santos coach Claudinei Oliveira has already said that he does not fear for the future and believes in the new generation of meninos da Vila (Vila is the name of Santos’ stadium), with Gabriel Barbosa (‘Gabigol’) and Neilton – who is already being called ‘the new Neymar’. Both started in Santos’s youth ranks.

On the other hand, Corinthians seems to be more predictable without its midfielder, and commentator Walter Casagrande has said that without Paulinho, the team lacks the element of surprise, making it easy for its opponents to mark it. Corinthians coach Tite still has well-known, experienced Renato Augusto and Pato in his arsenal, to bring an element of unpredictability to the field. In the meantime, fans with heavy hearts have something to hold on to: both Neymar and Paulinho have sworn to return one day.

24 AUG Brasilerão: Santos vs.

Vitória Vitória is within striking distance of the leaders in the standings, while the ‘boys from the Vila’ fight to stay out of the relegation zone. 6.30pm, Vila Belmiro.

25 AUG Brasilerão: São Paulo vs.

Fluminense Both nicknamed ‘Tricolor’, these teams are both fighting to break out of the slump they find themselves in.

4pm, Pacaembu 1 SEP Brasileirão: Corinthians vs.

Flamengo Worlds collide as the two teams with the largest fanbases in Brazil duel in this national classic. Chicão, a former Corinthians player, faces his former team for the first time since his transfer. 4pm, Pacaembu.

11 SEP Brasileirão: São Paulo vs.

Ponte Preta Coach Paulo Autuori tries

to quell São Paulo’s fans’ fears, as his new team’s horrid slide finds it dangerously close to relegation. 10pm, Morumbi.

15 SEP Brasileirão: Santos vs.

Botafogo Shaping up well in the Brasilerão so far – at least as we go to press – the Rio team will be hoping to solidify itself as a championship threat against Santos. 4pm, Vila Belmiro.

15 SEP Brasilerão: Corinthians vs.

Goiás Back in 2007, Corinthians was relegated to second division, replacing Goiás – which won the last match of the season – at the very last moment. Both teams are fighting to separate themselves from the mid-table jam. 4pm, Pacaembu.

18 SEP Brasileirão: São Paulo vs. Atlético Mineiro São Paulo seeks revenge against the Libertadores

champion, which eliminated them from contention in the Copa. 10pm, Morumbi.

22 SEP Brasileirão: Corinthians vs.

Cruzeiro With both teams climbing the tables and contending for the leadership, this match should be a hard-fought nailbiter. 4pm, Pacaembu

Alex Livesey - FIFA/FIFA via Getty Images

example, bid goodbye to the thenpromising Ronaldo in 1994, after he had been playing for the Minas Gerais-based team for just a year.

In the latest round of transfers in July, two major Brazilian players packed their bags for Europe but to the delight of fans, it had been a long time coming. Neymar and Paulinho, who for years have been difference-makers at Santos and Corinthians, respectively, bid

farewell to their clubs only after winning the Confederations Cup for the Brazilian national team, taking home the gold and bronze ball trophies earned for being named the tournament’s best and thirdbest player, respectively. Spanish player Iniesta won the silver ball.

Neymar debuted at Santos in 2009, and at only age 17, he shone alongside fellow newcomer Paulo Henrique Ganso. Between dribbles, goals and victory dances, the striker led the team to victory in three Paulista Championships, the Brazilian Cup and the Libertadores Cup, which Santos hadn’t won, at the time, for 49 years.

He became the face of the team and a worldwide sensation – the target of money-bags proposals from abroad. The club managed to hold onto its major star, bucking the trend of Brazilian football quickly selling off its greatest talents. But after four years of turning down numerous proposals, Neymar finally left Santos to realise his dream and play alongside Lionel Messi at Barcelona.

Paulinho left Corinthians to play in the British Premier League, for Tottenham Hotspur, after three victorious years as a Timão midfielder. His name also went down in the club’s history books with the unprecedented Libertadores of America win, reaching the final unbeaten. He also participated in the successful campaigns of the 2011 Brazilian

The goodbye boys Paulinho (left) and Neymar have left for Europe clubs

Cecilia Gianesi explains how Santos and Corinthians are managing without Neymar and Paulinho In football, saying goodbye to a star as they travel on the road to an international career is just part of the game. Cruzeiro, for

Football listings How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the matches of São Paulo’s major teams this month.

Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s always best to check before heading out to a match. Tickets can be purchased online at ingressofacil.com.br and futebolcard.com.br.

Football stadiums Pacaembu Praça Charles Miller, Pacaembu (3664 4650). Metrô 2, Clinicas. Tickets R$30-$120.

Morumbi Praça Roberto Gomes Pedrosa 1 (3749 8000). Tickets R$30$120. No credit cards.

Vila Belmiro Rua Princesa Isabel, no number, Santos (13 3257 4000).

Tickets R$20-$60.

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SP Essentials 64 66

SHUTTERSTOCK

Map Resources

Down under As the sun goes down, the car lights come on, winding their way along Avenida Paulista

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16/08/13 18:11

Resources Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

HEALTH For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil.

Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of a notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação

da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

instant São Paulo

INST

@timeoutsp

TELEPHONES DiaLling & codes

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

debora cunha (@debcunha)

EMERGENCIES

On Instagram? In São Paulo? Submit your best pics of the city for a chance to see them on this page. This month’s featured shot is of the platform at Trianon-Masp metrô station, taken by Debora Cunha (@debcunha). To share your shots with us, tag them with #timeoutsp. tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

your licence was issued.

Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

CYCLING

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit). The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains.

One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App, or SaferTaxi.

Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand.

Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

WALKING

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.

Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket.

A ride to any destination costs R$3 and

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot.

The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins.

When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo. com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img.org. br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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