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Sate your hunger for art – and treat yourself to tea while you’re at it, at our pick of SP’s museum cafés and restaurants

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This month in São Paulo 22 September-21 October 2013

City Beat The word on the street.

Features

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Shopping & Style

6 ER COV RY STO

10

Coffee + culture

44

From mega-malls to crafts and antiques markets, find what you’re looking for, citywide.

For a quick bite, a spot of coffee, cocktails or a multi-course meal, museum and gallery restaurants are fine spaces for whiling away the afternoon in the company of great works of art.

Film 45 The 37th São Paulo Film Festival,

Food & Drink

Gay & Lesbian 49

the Mostra, pays tribute to the US director Stanley Kubrick, plus this month’s film reviews.

Clubs, bars, cafés and outings: our pick of the city for SP’s LGBT crowd.

18

New in town

We stop in for down-home dining at Jacarandá, no-frills curries at Made in Thai, and precision-made burgers at H3 Hamburgology.

33

Beer Experience returns for its third year, with this latest expanded edition in a larger space, showcasing hundreds of varieties of microbrews, gastronomical pairings and live music.

Art & Museums

40

With his signature black-and-white works, the eco-photographer Sebastião Salgado’s new exhibition captures the natural world in its most remote and unspoiled locales.

50

The international party band Gogol Bordello swings into town.

Alexandre dos Santos Silva/© Galeria Paulo Kuczynski

Bars & Cafés

Music & Nightlife

Football

54 Facing relegation, São Paulo finds itself in crisis mode.

SP Essentials 55 Essential information for visitors, and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram @timeoutsp for a chance to see your images in print.

Face-off The strange formations of Maria Martins’s sculpture ‘O Impossivel’

Quote of the month

Cover design Bia Gomes e Rafaela Garcez Cover photography Shutterstock Artwork image Shutterstock/©Neftali

LucasTerribili/Press Image

Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

I wanted to show a fully balanced world. I hope that people, upon viewing the exhibition, will rediscover that a landscape – just like a human being – has dignity.

Pretty cheesy A dish of fresh burrata cheese with asparagus at Mangiare

SebastiãO SALGADO, Photographer See Art section

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City Beat

Élen soares

The Big Picture

Rowdy red-breast Wildlife persists in the unlikeliest of places, sometimes: head to the top of the Edifício Itália, the best vantage point in town, and you might even spot a vulture, sailing over the city. But the one bird you will almost definitely see in São Paulo is the sabiá-laranjeira (Turdus rufiventris) – the rufous-bellied thrush. Unmistakeable with its rusty orange belly, it’s the state of São Paulo’s official symbol, but has had some city-dwellers up in arms this month: the birds are warbling in the spring with their incessant song, even during the night. We say sing on, little bird.

Editor’s letter There’s no disputing the power of business and finance when it comes to making São Paulo tick. But where our mission in life as Time Out São Paulo is concerned – that is, bringing the city’s culture, nightlife and food and drink scenes to life on our pages and on our site – art and gastronomy are the areas in which the city shines brightest.

That fact, which we sense again and again as we put the magazine together each month, made

researching and reviewing the theme for this month’s cover story a double whammy of pleasure.

Drawing SP’s two specialities together, we’ve delved into some of our favourite museums and cultural centres to find the best possible places for mixing culture with a spot of lunch, or for following up a thought-provoking exhibition with coffee and a conversation.

So whether you make gastronomy an excuse for an

afternoon’s sightseeing, or the other way round, jump in and check out our picks: breezy Santinho at the Museu da Casa Brasileira, slick Chez MIS for post-exhibition drinks, and Pret do MAM, for long lunches in sight of the parkland beyond the Museu de Arte Moderna. And stay tuned, too, for two new venues about to ramp up SP’s arts and dining selection.

Claire Rigby

KEEP UP Find our August-September cover story at j.mp/TOSP_jzbrs

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Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil.

Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini

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Editorial Editor-in-chief Claire Rigby Deputy editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy editors (Portuguese) Fabiana Caso, Marina Monzillo Contributing assistant editors Rafael Argemon, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Christopher Mack, Christine Puleo, Melina Mance

Coming up online

Rio de Janeiro Editor (English) Doug Gray Editor (Portuguese) Alice Moura

From art exhibitions to gigs and gourmet excursions, head online to timeout.com/sao-paulo and sister site timeout.com/rio/en to find our curated selection of the best that each city has to offer.

Design Art director Bia Gomes Design intern Rafaela Garcez Print production Gráfica Aquarela

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Contributors ​Text ​Dave Calhoun, Anna Fitzpatrick, Evelin Fomin​, ​Danielle Goldstein, Tom Huddleston, Joshua Rothkopf​. Photo Ju Martinez Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales director Elcio Farigo Account managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro

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Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & new business director Virgínia Castro Administration Finance director Gregório Correa de Ávila Finance analyst Sueli Maria da Silva

Tame impala Kevin Parker

and co. bring their buzzy brand of dream-rock jams to Cine Joia for the second time in just over a year. 16 October. j.mp/TOSP_ tameimpa

Gastronômade Join a well-heeled crowd for an al fresco banquet

in the countryside, 125km from São Paulo, as part of the latest series of Gastronômade rustic-chic lunches. 6 October j.mp/TOSP_gnmde

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD David Woodley International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins

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Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

Black Sabbath Bringing its Brazilian tour to a close, the legendary British heavy metal band brings the noise to Rio’s Sambódromo. 13 October. j.mp/TOR_bsab

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No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.

PIPO Chef Felipe Bronze, best known for the top contemporary Rio restaurant Oro, turns his hand to classic boteco food (with a twist) at Pipo, his new Leblon eatery. j.mp/TOR_pipo

Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

SÍTIO ROBERTO BURLE MARX

One of the most important legacies of the landscape artist, the sítio opens a new space featuring sculptures plus historic books. j.mp/TOR_blmx-eng

The key to our five-star rating system

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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Culture

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SHELF LIFE The bright interior of the new Santinho, inside the Museu da Casa Brasileira

Hungry culture vultures can get their fill in more than ways than one, at the city’s best museum and gallery eateries, say ANNA FITZPATRICK and CATHERINE BALSTON

A

n ace café with quite a nice museum attached’.

That cheeky slogan, dreamed up by the advertising agency Saatchi & Saatchi in 1988 for London’s Victoria & Albert museum (aka the ‘V&A’) used a dash of classic British understatement to draw visitors into the museum, and to draw attention to its lavish collection of art and design objects, spanning the globe and the centuries. The ad caused a small kerfuffle at the time, with members of the board up in arms at what they saw as its overly flip tone – the campaign also featured lines like, ‘Where else do they give you £100,000,000 worth of objets d’art free with every egg salad?’ – but has since found its way into the textbooks as an indisputable, highly successful attention grabber.

One of its less commented aspects was the simple, almost subliminal suggestion that a day out at the museum might include the chance for a glorious anticipatory lunch beforehand, or a leisurely afternoon tea while you digest all you’d just seen.

In our view, there’s no better way to do high culture than to mix it with a little of what you fancy, be that a simple coffee and cake at the Pinacoteca, overlooking the lush, verdant gardens of Parque da Luz; or cocktails at Chez MIS, as one of the Museu da Imagem e do Som’s hip events kicks off next door. Tea at the Fundação Maria Luisa e Oscar Americano in Morumbi is a slightly far-flung delight, but well worth the trip thanks to the fascinating art collection that comes attached; and the buffet lunch at the MAM, at the restaurant Pret do MAM, is another great favourite with the art crowd.

Blazing the trail for a tendency that’s about to take off, with the imminent opening of two new art-related gastronomy spaces, the São Paulo restaurant Capim Santo kicked things off in January 2011, when it opened a satellite branch of its acclaimed eatery inside the Instituto Tomie Ohtake, followed by a second inside the Museu da Casa Brasileira (see page 12). In the same vein, there’s a pair of contenders in the pipeline, starting with a brand new bar currently under construction in the space upstairs from the buzzy restaurant Sal Gastronomia, just across the courtyard from Galeria Vermelho (see Art listings). The nautical-themed bar, set to open in October, is Admiral Place, a new venture by, amongst others, Sal’s chefproprietor, Henrique Fogaça. Also on the horizon, a restaurant/bar inside the downtown art space Pivô is set to open at the beginning of next year, run by an as-yet undisclosed existing restaurant, and bringing the art-and-a-bite-to-eat options to a delightfully eclectic head. Coffee and culture? Don’t mind if we do.

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Flor Café

@ Pinacoteca

Overlooking the verdant Jardim da Luz, Flor Café makes for a perfect urban escape

Flor Café at the Pinacoteca, Praça da Luz, no number, Luz (3313 1583/ pinacoteca.org.br). Open 10am-5.30pm Tue-Wed; 10am-7.30pm Thu; 10am-5.30pm Fri-Sat. Main courses R$23.50-R$35; cafezinho R$3.50.

Carla Oliveira/press image

It’s location, location, location at the inside-outside Flor Café situated in the stately Pinacoteca art musuem. Head through the dim basement café and straight out to the real gem: a black-and-whitemarble-floored patio, where parkside tables allow visitors to peer out over the neighbouring Jardim da Luz. The oldest public park in the city, it’s a people-watchers’ paradise, packed with curious details like bandstands, centuries-old trees dating back to its first incarnation as a botanical garden in the 18th century, and more than fifty sculptures from the Pinacoteca’s collection – not to mention a cast of interesting characters, from construction workers napping on their lunch breaks to a handful of older prostitutes, soliciting for a spot of afternoon work.

The classic British-designed railway station, the Estação da Luz, can also be spotted through the trees. Take in the view while you order a coffee (R$3.50) and a slice of cake (R$4). Uninspired lunches can also be had: the lasagne (R$23.50) and penne pasta salad (R$27) are both decent, if rather plain options.

Shady business Flor Café affords visitors an eyeful of the park and the Pinacoteca sculpture garden from under the cover of sunshades

Santinho

Rodrigo Zorzi/press image

Museum visitors and business lunchers get in line for the buffet at this opulent mansion's restaurant

Natural lighting Glassy construction and garden views at Santinho

@ Museu da

Casa Brasileira

One of the few remaining vestiges of the city’s early 20th-century coffee boom, The Museu da Casa Brasileira (mcb.sp.gov.br) endures on the now business-centric traffic-choked Avenida Faria Lima. Standing in stark contrast to the neighbouring glass office towers, the museum is an elegant mansion that was once home to the wealthy Prado family, but has been transformed into a space for design and architecture-related exhibitions. Come lunchtime, however, it’s the food rather than the museum that’s the main attraction, with office crowds queueing at the new Santinho restaurant for the special of the day, like Thursday’s moqueca de peixe (fish stew) with cashew rice, farofa (toasted maniac flour) and coconut for a fixed R$49, including dessert. Comprising the right-hand wing of the mansion, and opening onto the museum’s peaceful rear garden, Santinho replaces the Quinta do Museu restaurant, and is run by Morena Leite, the chef responsible for the excellent Brazilian restaurant Capim Santo (see Restaurant listings). If the dish of the day doesn't appeal, opt for the buffet which, at R$43 during the week and R$69 at weekends, is a lunch to linger over, especially on Sundays, when the museum gardens play host to a morning of live bossa nova. Leave an equally open schedule if you head to the original Santinho, located on the ground floor of the landmark Institute Tomie Ohtake (Avenida Faria Lima, 201, Pinheiros, 2245 1900, institutotomieohtake.org.br), just a mile up the road, in Pinheiros – where it’s easy to make a long afternoon of it, with a look around the institute’s latest exhibitions. Both Santinhos feature bright colours on the chairs, the braces of the waiting staff, and the pots bubbling away on the buffet, creating a stark contrast to the white backdrop of the museum’s walls.

Santinho at The Museu da Casa Brasileira, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2705, Jardim Paulista (3032 2277/capimsanto.com.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Prices set menu R$49; buffet R$43-$69.

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Citron

@ Centro Cultural São Paulo

Cradled inside the architecturally intriguing CCSP, this buffet restaurant and snack bar is spot on for a fast bite

Citron at the Centro Cultural São Paulo (CCSP), Rua Vergueiro 1000, Paraíso (3203 0656/centrocultural.sp.gov.br). Restaurant: Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Sat. Prices R$3.90/100g. Snack Bar: Open 9am-4pm Mon; 9am-9pm Tue-Sat; 9am-8pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$6.50-$8.50.

Salão de Chá

João Mussolin/press image

Primary colours are an eye-catching feature of the new Citron restaurant, on the first floor at the Centro Cultural São Paulo (CCSP) – although the bold reds, greens and yellows on the plastic chairs are more akin to those of a nursery school than a sophisticated cultural hub. The tables are arranged under a canopy roof with pleasant views over the garden in the courtyard below – a great choice for a sunny day, though rest assured that there are tables inside for when the weather turns blustery.

Citron is a buffet-style weigh-and-pay affair (R$3.90/100g), and while there’s none of the creativity of Santinho here, it’s a perfectly passable lunch filler. If you just want to get a coffee and a quick bite before visiting the CCSP, Citron also has a snack bar, with decent options like sandwiches and the Brazilian pão de queijo (cheese bread). Don’t think of this as a destination in itself, but rather as a decent pit stop while exploring this spacious cultural centre – an impressive architectural feat of open space, suspended walkways, glass-panelled walls and four floors that house libraries, an exhibition space, and an unusual roof terrace, complete with its own lawn.

Culture club Citron's bright and breezy outdoor seating under a canopy roof makes for a pleasant pit stop during a visit to CCSP

@ Fundação Maria Luisa

Siomara Amadeu Limongi/press image

Elegant floral table settings and impeccable afternoon tea service

Cups and cakes The impressive spread of Salão de Chá’s afternoon tea

e Oscar Americano

the Fundação Maria Luisa e Oscar Americano, in the hilly western suburbs of Morumbi, feels like a world away from the usually congested streets of São Paulo. Nestled within 75,000 square metres of parkland, the foundation is the former home of the São Paulo engineer Oscar Americano, his wife Maria Luisa and their two sons. The striking modernist house in the shape of a white concrete box is perched on the side of a gentle hill, with the columned underside creating a pleasant, shaded courtyard where the Salão de Chá serves simple lunches and afternoon tea. A peaceful place thanks to its remote location, it makes for a perfect mid-week getaway in the company of local ladies-that-lunch and retired gentlefolk. The scattering of round tables fills up with families at the weekend, packing out on the fortnightly Sundays on which the Foundation hosts a morning classical musical recital. The somewhat pricey afternoon tea (R$55) pulls out the stops with silver teapots and dainty tiered cake servers, and can be had anytime – although a phone reservation is recommended. A better bet is one of the simple lunches, like a generous slice of quiche or tart with salad (R$25), a croissant (R$7) or a grilled tostex sandwich (R$9). And if you’re feeling indulgent, order a bottle of the Carmen white wine (R$30 for 375ml; R$60 for 750ml) and follow it up with a slice of homemade cake (R$8.50). Inside the house, you can browse the Americano’s sizeable art collection, which includes imperial-era portraits, crockery and works by one of Brazil's best-known modernists, Candido Portinari. Be sure to stop into Oscar Americano’s study: appointed with wood furniture, paintings and his book collection, it’s the one room still in its original 1960s style – just as Oscar left it. Admission to the house is R$10, but it’s free on the first Saturday of the month.

Salão de Chá at Fundação Maria Luisa e Oscar Americano, Avenida Morumbi 4077 (3742 0077/fundacaooscaramericano.org.br). Open 10am-5pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$22-$25; cafezinho R$4; sandwiches R$7-$9.

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Chez MIS

@ Museu da

Imagem e do Som

Weekday lunch specials and a solid drinks menu make this well worth a visit

Chez MIS at Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS), Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (3467 3441/chezmis.com.br). Open noon-3pm; 6pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$32-$109.

Rudá Cabral/press image

While not on the same scale as the vast gardens of the Fundação Maria Luisa e Oscar Americano, the leafy setting of the innovative Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) is a highlight of lunch at Chez MIS – the restaurant is set inside a glass box amidst the museum's open-plan gardens.

Minimalist black-and-white décor gives a modern design aesthetic that matches the look of the museum, but the atmosphere here is decidedly laidback. Sink into one of two stretch leather couches alongside Chez’s hipster clientele, and peruse a menu comprised of mostly salad and sandwich options. There’s also a weekday lunch special, which comes with a mini fried polenta or salad appetiser plus a choice of main course and dessert (R$35).

Chez MIS is also a good spot for an after-work drink, or a post-exhibition dinner, when the back wall of the restaurant lights up with candles amidst a wax waterfall. Consider a watermelon Martini (R$22-$37) or an aged honey daiquiri (R$27-$32), or keep it simple with a pisco sour (R$27), teamed with Serrano ham chips (R$24), or perhaps, salmon tartar on toast (R$28).

Stretch out One of the two luxurious leather couches inside Chez MIS

Best of the rest Il Pastaio Pan Aroma Café @ Casa das Rosas Patricia Corvo/press image

luigi stavale/press image

A hidden-gem café on Avenida Paulista, tucked behind one of its oldest surviving mansions. Avenida Paulista, 37, Bela Vista (3289 8897/ilpastaio.com.br).

Uni @ MASP Excellent lunches in the airy restaurant below the city’s premiere art museum.

Avenida Paulista, 1578, Bela Vista (3253 2829).

Pret do MAM Go for the fixed-price buffet with views of Parque do Ibirapuera, inside the Museum of Modern Art. Parque Ibirapuera, Portão 3, Vila Mariana (5085 1306/mam.org.br/visite/restaurante).

CCBB café

Pick a sunny day and a table on the pedestrianised boulevard outside this magnificent downtown cultural centre. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651).

Sal Gastronomia @ Galeria Vermelho Fine dining across the courtyard from the exceptional art gallery, at the top of Avenida Paulista. Rua Minas Gerais 352 Consolação (3151 3085/salgastronomia.com.br).

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés

ju martinez

Eating Out 18 Bars & Cafés 33

Countryside cuisine One of the flavourful takes on uncomplicated rustic dishes at Jacarandá

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Eating Out Reviews

ju martinez

Jacarandá

Tree house Giving the restaurant its name, a large jacaranda tree grows up through the centre of the space

Rua Alves Guimarães 153, Pinheiros (3083 3003). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses R$39-$65. Tatu Bar & Palco: 8pm-1am Thu-Sat.

ju martinez

You’d be forgiven for missing the entrance to Jacarandá, still a relative newcomer to the city’s dining scene, having opened last November.

Concealed behind terracotta walls, a garden path leads patrons down to the restaurant, set around the eponymous jacaranda tree, encased like a jewel in a glass box, and forming part of a quaint winter garden that allows natural light and fresh air to filter into the dining area. Tables and chairs surround the winter garden, in a space that is rustic and simple, decorated with refreshing restraint.

Our culinary journey began with a couvert of freshly baked crusty bread, teamed with a choice of olive oil, creamy butter and sea salt, followed by a pair of perfectly seasoned empanadas (R$10), both generously filled, one with cheese, and the other with beef. On to the mains, where a streamlined ten-dish menu makes choosing a straightforward task.

For the carnivores, the pork ribs, served with roasted sweet potato

tomato sauce. Those looking for lighter offerings, perhaps for lunch, should consider the many omelette options, including one served in breadcrumbs filled with cod and chickpeas that piqued our interest.

To round off, we ordered the pudim de queijo da Serra (R$15) – flan made with cheese from the neighbouring state of Minas Gerais.

We also opted for chocolate cake

ju martinez

(R$51), were a hit – tender and full of flavour. The grilled steak (Argentinian ‘chorizo’ cut) with roasted pumpkin and gravy (R$65), was good, albeit forgettable.

Vegetarians will love Jacarandá’s popular pumpkin, spinach and Canastra cheese lasagne (R$39) which, despite a slight dominance of spinach, was delicious – crunchy on top and creamy inside, with a sweet

Country cusine and a towering tree are at the heart of this newcomer

with cream (R$12) – divine, creamy, and perfectly sweetened, trumped only by the delightful pudim de doce de leite (caramelised sweetened condensed milk flan, R$12).

There’s no need to let the gourmet experience end with coffee, either. Following the path back out, you’ll spot a rustic pantry on the left, with wooden shelves stocked with traditional goodies for sale.

Take a taste of the countryside home with you, whether in mini portions of homemade doce de leite sweets, cheese and guava jelly from Minas Gerais, or specialist farmhouse coffees supplied by one of São Paulo’s most gourmet cafés and coffee brands, Coffee Lab (see Café listings).

Or make your next stop a nightcap: at the beginning of the year, the owners opened Tatu Bar & Palco, a piano bar down in the restaurant’s basement. Head down the stairs to the lowlit, classy space with red leather sofas lining the walls, swivel chairs at the bar, and a little stage that may just beckon you up to sing something shamelessly sultry. Evelin Fomin

Armed and ready Grilled octopus with potatoes, and Jacarandá’s Uruguayan chef, Luciana Lopes da Silva

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The burger bandwagon rolls on and on. There’s even a chain – Hamburgology H3 – treating the pursuit of the perfect patty as a science. We love the idea – after all, a good burger is a serious issue, and here, they certainly deliver on the ambitious name.

With locations now open across ten São Paulo shopping malls, including Shopping Eldorado and Shopping Morumbi (see Shopping listings), H3 Hamburgology focuses exclusively on hamburgers. Each patty contains 200 grams of meat, grilled the way each customer likes it. But don’t plan on getting your hands dirty – burgers are served here without a bun, and with cutlery. You can team your burger with a choice of sides: fries, salad or – gasp – rice.

There’s also a menu of sauce

Best Burg er

options to top off your Look o burger. guide ut for our p o t Try the – at So SP’s bestcket-sized P b H3 Tuga hotelsTuris stand urgers s, , and (opposite), a t 150 in bars c it y w ide. a homage to the chain’s Portuguese origins: the burger comes topped with a fried egg and the sauce is made with a reduction of beer, garlic and bay leaves.

With locations sprouting up in São Paulo, Salvador and Recife, the chain has clearly got burgers down to a science, and to a fine art too.

Silvio Giannini Avenida Roque Petroni Júnior 1089, Morumbi (4003 4132/ h3.com/br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sun. Burgers R$15.45-$22.95 (includes fries). Other locations Citywide

press image

The science of the perfect burger comes to São Paulo’s malls

Food & Drink

H3 Hamburgology

On the sunny side The H3 Tuga beef patty is crowned with a fried egg

Hole-in-the-wall Thai joint hits the mark with its tasty, typical fare

‘Can you eat Thai food?’ A waiter at one of Bangkok’s smarter eating establishments may well ask you this out of genuine concern for your well-being, doubting your ability to handle their spicier dishes. In SP, though, it’s more likely to be frustrated Thai food lovers asking the question – and the answer is often no. It’s as difficult to find decent Thai in São Paulo as it is to devour a green curry without breaking a sweat. The

handful of worthwhile spots are far from traditional – think long-time fusion favourite Mestiço (see listings), the Mex/Thai/Brazilian options of the excellent Obá (see listings), or the takeout-turned-restaurant Namga (see listings).

Enter Made in Thai, owned by the Brazilian chef Camila Paludi, who studied the Southeast Asian cuisine on Koh Samui island and returned hellbent on opening a no-frills Thai joint. Dispensing with decorum and with chic decor, Paludi’s focus is on the food, inspired by Thailand’s spectacular street food culture.

Rua Augusta 1524, Consolação (3253 1677). Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat. Main courses R$20-$24. Metro 2, BARGAIN Consolação.

juan ciifrian

Thai treat The fried rice with Panang curry is one of three lunch options

Simplicity is evident from the get go in the restaurant’s menu – scrawled on a blackboard over an otherwise bare white wall – and the unassuming Paludi, who cooks your order in an open kitchen.

Aside from a few Buddhist ornaments and a promising downstairs refuge, the hole-in-thewall eatery, nestled in a small space on a cobblestoned corridor off hectic Rua Augusta, lacks the ambience and exuberance that most people might expect from a Thai restaurant, but offers a welcome respite from the area’s run-of-the-mill lunches nonetheless. And the food more than delivers on expectations. The Khao Pad – aromatic fried rice with Panang curry (R$20) – was light and creamy, albeit a bit mild to really excite. The green curry (R$20) on the other hand – a delicious coconut milk concoction – was not quite hot enough to worry that Thai waiter, but satisfyingly spicy nonetheless. The shrimp pad Thai (R$25) was light and full of flavour, with all the requisite toppings and served with a fork and spoon. For dessert, we cooled our palettes with the only Brazilian-Thai fusion dish on the menu: the brigadeiro de cidreira (R$4), a lighter, lemon-grass version of the popular Brazilian chocolate and condensed-milk sweet.

Can you eat Thai food? Yes, you can, and this compact, refreshingly simple little spot is an excellent place to do it. Juan Cifrian

press image

juan ciifrian

Made in Thai

No-frills Lemon grass brigadeiro (top) and the menu chalked up on the wall

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Food & Drink

Restaurant listings How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes.

We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

Eat Italy Regional cuisine week

NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro FRENCH La Casserole It first opened in 1954, and since then little has changed in this frozen-in-time bistro – which is no bad thing. The service is friendly and charming, and the food is good, solid, bourgeois cooking. The menu doesn’t pander or dumb down, though – there are classics like tripes à la mode de Caen and kidneys in beaujolais wine, alongside well cooked lamb and the tried-and-tested coq au vin. It’s worth spending a little time walking round the neighbourhood by day (be careful in the area after nightfall) to enjoy the small flower market nearby, and to get a flavour of the way São Paulo was before the wreckers’ balls took over. Largo do Arouche 346, Centro (3331 6283/ lacasserole.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$38.50-$72.50; lunch R$42$52; couvert R$10-$14.

ITALIAN Cantina e Pizzaria Piolin A

true survivor on Baixo Augusta, where it once lived a solitary life in the midst of sex clubs, Piolin is a cheap and cheerful Italian spot where everyone, it seems, is a regular. That might have something to do with its long-standing popularity with theatre-land’s grafters – the house sponsors local performances, whose casts eat half price. Utterly unpretentious, the place has been open for 40 years under the guidance of José Alves de Godoy, known to all as Mosquito. Try his tried and tested invention – lasagna alla romanesca, with

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We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

The diversity of Italy’s cuisine is thanks in no small part to its origin as a series of states, each with its own customs and cuisines. Celebrate that local gastronomy with the special menus at twenty of São Paulo’s Italian restaurants – each representing a different region – in the second ‘Semana da Cozinha Regional Italiana’ (Regional Italian Cuisine Week). Start with Emilia-Romagna at family-friendly Spadaccino, before moving south for a taste of Marche with the mixed-meat lasagne vincisgrassi at Abruzzo, rounding things off in Abruzzo by way of the Pinheiros old-timer Vinheria Percussi. 13-20 October.

See listings for restaurant details, and go to j.mp/TOSP_ italweek to see prices and all participating restaurants. white sauce, peas, ham and mushrooms, and live it up with the luvvies. Rua Augusta 311, Consolação (3256 9356/ cantinaepizzariapiolin.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1.30am Mon-Fri; noon5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; noon-2am Sun. Main courses R$41-$68 (for two); lunch R$17.50; couvert R$12.50. BARGAIN BRAZILIAN Varanda Copan Sitting at the foot of the Niemeyer-designed Copan, Varanda makes for a solid dining option should you find yourself famished on a busy night in Centro. A mix of professionals as well as groups of friends congregate mid-week to drink, chat and snack. Floor-to-ceiling windows offer wide views of the streetscape, still abuzz until late evening. The low-key menu matches the low-key vibe, with à la carte options including pasta and beef, or fish dishes such as grilled salmon topped with a tangy caper sauce (R$42). If you’re in that

part of town come the weekend, settle in for the popular lunch buffet (loaded with all the Brazilian favourites, and then some). Just don’t expect the best service in the world. Avenida Ipiranga 200, República (3120 4442/varandacopan.com. br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11.30ammidnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$25-$40, lunch R$35.90 per kilo; couvert R$5-$10.

Consolação & Higienópolis ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom

fettuccine is one example of why Carlota wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy shrimp with parma ham risotto. The restaurant’s recreation of the classic Brazilian dessert known as Romeo and Juliet elevates a simple dessert to an exquisite guava soufflé in a queijo Catupiry (Brazilian cream cheese) sauce. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/carlota.com.br). Open 7pmmidnight Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$73; couvert R$11.

FRENCH Ici Bistrô This chic, classically French restaurant has won considerable acclaim since its 2002 opening. The appetisers includes the duo de lula panée, crisp and wonderfully spicy squid, although the modest portion is an appetite-whetting trick (long in use by the purveyors of haute-French cuisine).

The sesame-seed-encrusted tuna steak is supremely tender and well flavoured, and the desserts deserve equal praise, especially the icy profiteroles and the signature pain perdu – a heavenly slice of caramelised French toast served with a dollop of pear compote bathed in double cream. Rua Pará 36, Higienópolis (3259 6896/icibistro.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista.

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Fri; 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Sat; 12.305pm Sun. Main courses R$43-$113; lunch R$46-$56; couvert R$8.90.

FRENCH La Tartine You can’t go wrong with friendly La Tartine for an informal bite to eat with friends. This small bistro has three cosy rooms: two on the ground floor and one upstairs, where you can also settle into one of the sofas while you wait – although don’t be surprised to find a queue forming down the stairs at weekends. The menu is small and reasonably priced, featuring traditional French fare such as quiche and salad, steak au poivre and coq au vin. Rua Fernando Albuquerque 267, Consolação (3259 2090). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 7.30pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$24-$38. BARGAIN INDIAN Madhu In a city as cosmopolitan as São Paulo, it’s a surprise to find so few options for food from the Indian subcontinent. So it’s an even bigger surprise to find a fast-food Indian restaurant that not only serves damn good curry, but serves it in combos featuring a top-notch array of side dishes.

Chapatis come as standard, but there are tough choices to be made: which chutney? Rice, or flat appam rice-bread?

Samosa or kofta? The easy bit is the bill – you can have the lot for less than R$25.

Rua Augusta 1422, Consolação (3262 5535/madhurestaurante.com.br). Open noon-10pm Mon-Wed; noon-11.30pm Thu; noon-midnight Fri; 1pm-1am Sat; 1-10.30pm Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$12.90-$24.90.

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Food & Drink

ECLECTIC Mestiço A grand dame of

fusion restaurants, GLS-friendly Mestiço continues to update itself by regularly changing the artwork and trying out new menu items, while sticking to its guns of good cooking. The water feature at the back and the table layout might be a tad dated, but the food continues to be a draw. Order the krathong thong – crunchy pastry with spicy Thai chicken and corn, with an extra sprinkle of chilli dust – and then a veggie or Thai curry for mains, and you’ll get decent portions served with steaming jasmine rice. Chocoholics will love the brownies – ask the waiter to load up on the sweet, custardy chocolate sauce. And as a finishing touch, the bill shouldn’t break the bank – a bonus in a city where restaurant prices can occasionally seem tantamount to daylight robbery.

Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 277, Consolação (3256 3165/mestico.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.45ammidnight Mon; 11.45am-1am Tue-Thu; 11.45am-2am Fri, Sat; 11.45ammidnight Sun. Main courses R$34$72.50; lunch R$41-$44.

CONTEMPORARY Rex Restaurante Few things warm the heart more than a tale of one man and his dog. In the case of Rex, the funky late-night supper club from the chef Cassio Machado, the dog in question is one Baboo, Machado’s late Rottweiler. Baboo is reproduced in kitschy sculpture form by a number of local artists in the narrow, whimsical space. Soak up the eclectic, sensory overload decor as you browse the menu of creative burgers and simple bistro fare with a twist, like filet mignon with wasabi, ginger and rosemary (R$49), or salmon tweaked with a tart raspberry vinaigrette (R$54). Another pleasant surprise, beyond the sophisticated dining at 4am, are the wines by the glass, which you can try before you buy. Rua da Consolação 3193, Jardim Paulista (2506 7386/rexrestaurante.com. br). Open 8pm-4am Mon-Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Main courses R$28-$55; couvert R$6.50.

Lapa, Perdizes, Vila Leopoldina & Barra Funda

Our only criticism? The small portions, which might leave customers with a big appetite still hungry after lunch. Killa recently moved to a new, bigger space just three blocks down the road from its original home. Rua Padre Chico 324 (08551 8511/killa.com.br). Open 7.3011.30pm Tue-Thu; 7.30pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$39.

BARBECUE Fogão Gaúcho This expansive steakhouse is a lone beacon of competence in a semi-industrial area in the north of the city. The quality of its cuts, the salting of the meat, and the skill at the grill all work in perfect harmony. Its super-efficient waiting staff, clad in white shirts, leather boots ITALIAN Mangiare Hidden away and loose gaúcho trousers – scores in Vila Leopoldina, a fast-growing it bonus points. The architecture – a neighbourhood in the west of the city, series of bland cojoining rooms – is Mangiare packs in as many diners nothing to write home about, but the as possible to its expansive but cosy quality woods and marbles former warehouse space. After throughout, and an excellent initial teething troubles, bar area, make up Mangiare is now for any design running like a finely deficiencies. tuned orchestra Avenida – pastas are Marquês de São served al dente, Vicente 1767B, grilled meats are Barra Funda succulent, and the (3611 3008/ i waiters are calm fogaogaucho. ebowsk this themed L and collected. com.br). Open es at ive id b ’a e d Don’t skip the 11.30am-4pm, ‘The Du Barra Funda d rs delicious couvert of 6-11.30pm MonSee Ba homemade breads.

Thu; 11.30amThe maltagliati pasta 11.30pm Fri, Sat; with Bolognese ragoût 11.30am-10pm Sun. (R$32) is a delicious option, Fixed price R$72 but if you’re dining à deux, (dinner); R$78 (lunch). try the la vera bisteca alla fiorentina PERUVIAN Killa The food at this (R$120 for two people) – a T-bone steak amiable local eatery is not just covered in garlic and rosemary. To top Peruvian, but novoandina – ‘new it all off, the trio dell’amore (R$15), Andean’. Peruvian cuisine is made with Brazilian AMMA chocolate, increasingly important and the is a triple treat. Avenida Imperatriz novoandina concept is to mix preLeopoldina 681,Vila Leopoldina (3034 Hispanic cooking techniques with 5074/mangiaregastronomia.com.br). other elements like European cooking.

Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight MonHere at Killa, the emphasis is on Peru’s Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Main wonderful signature dish: the raw fish courses R$32-$60. salad, ceviche. And it’s delicious, with ASIAN Nama Baru With a kitchen lightly-flavoured, delicate flakes of no bigger than an elevator, this is a fish gently bathed in citric flavours.

IN THE AREA

small but perfectly formed spot for a lunchtime fix of pad Thai noodles and South-East Asian curries. The husband (chef) and wife (front of house) owners are from Santos, and chef Ique learnt his craft at the helm of a pub kitchen in London – so it’s hardly what you’d call ‘authentic Asian’, but the food is simple, beautifully presented and delicious nonetheless. The Buda salad (R$27) is a must-try – an explosion of taste and texture with crunchy tempura squid, raw vegetable julienne, coriander, Thai mint and peanuts. The geng han lae (R$32) – a heavy curry with slow-roast pork belly and tamarind – is ideal for bigger appetites. Avenida Pompéia 1227, Perdizes (2548 7749/namabaru. com.br). Open noon-3pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$27-$44; lunch R$25.

Thai Namga Satisfying a craving for Thai food in São Paulo is no easy task, so when we heard about this progeny of the much-loved takeaway Tele-Thai, we were in there like a shot. The trickling fountains, candles and ambient music might give it the slight air of a spa, but it’s all about the food here, which, while neither wholly authentic nor generously proportioned, is delicious.

Thai classics like fragrant green curry, light and crunchy pad Thai and khao soi kai – a mild curry noodle soup – are on the menu alongside more inventive dishes like the succulent pork-filled squid. For a sensory overload, order the miang kham – build-your-own bundles of Japanese spinach filled with lemon, chillies, coconut and nuts. Round things off with the chef’s dessert, khanom kluay, whose black rice and coconut ice-cream combo is a sensation in both texture and taste. Rua Apiacás 92, Perdizes (2507 1774/namga.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$23-$39.

down and dirty at Sujinho is in the small hours of the morning before it shuts at 5am, when you’ll find meat-hungry punters tucking in to big hunks of picanha and espeto misto (mixed grilled meats). This traditional bisteca is still known to many old-school paulistanos as ‘Bar das Putas’ (the whores’ bar) for its clientele, who would come to relax after work back in the ’70s and ’80s, when Consolação was a place to pick up prostitutes. These days Sujinho has smartened up its image considerably.

This, the original restaurant – there are now three of them, plus a hamburger joint – has a roof terrace on the third floor, where by day you can watch the hubbub of Rua da Consolação below and graze on free torresmo (pork scratchings) and caldinho de feijão (bean soup) whilst you wait for a table. Rua da Consolação 2078, Consolação (3231 1299/sujinho. com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 11.30am-5am daily. Main courses R$30.25-$78.75 (for two); couvert R$9.

No credit cards. Other locations Rua da Consolação at 2063 and 2068 (3231 1299); Avenida Ipiranga 1058, República (3229 9986).

leo feltran/press image

BARBECUE Sujinho The best time to get

In the round Taking its toppings seriously, the swanky Bráz pizzeria has launched seven new pizza combinations in its Pinheiros branch, including the Norma (see photo, R$63.50) with aubergine, tomato, ricotta and basil.

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ECLECTIC AK Vila The AK in the name is for the chef Andrea Kaufmann, who ran a Jewish restaurant before setting up AK Vila in 2011. Classic Central European dishes such as goulash are now just one part of a more eclectic menu (think Peruvian soup alongside Scottish smoked haddock), with the main focus being on seasonal ingredients and straightforward (though pricey) grills.

The stinco de cordeiro (R$72, braised lamb shank) we had was fall-apart tender, and both the pork ribs starter (R$36) and the roast chicken (R$41) were superbly cooked. Vegetables need to be ordered separately (three dishes should be enough for two) – make the smoky aubergine one of your choices. The long, thin space, with a wood-decked terrace at the front, has a striking, industrial-chic design with bare concrete walls, naked lightbulbs and faded grey leather upholstery. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1240, Vila Madalena (3231 4496/akvila.com.br). Open Noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight TueThu; noon-3.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Fri; 12.30pm-4.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 12.30pm-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$49-$93.

ITALIAN Buttina Dine alfresco under

half a dozen jabuticaba trees, or inside this gorgeous converted vintage house, where the tree boughs are allowed to wind freely through the airy space. Chef Filomena Chiarella has gained legions of followers for her authentic recipes, learned in her native Basilicata, in Italy’s balmy South. Chiarella’s signature dishes include artisanal gnocchi and the delicious jabuticaba ice-cream (R$8), served while the delicious purple fruits are in season, in September and October. Rua João Moura 976, Pinheiros (3083 5991/buttina.com. br). Open noon-2.30pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-2.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Fri; 1pm-12.30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$20.80-$49.80; lunch R$31.50.

BRAZILIAN Chef Vivi Having struck gold in China during the Beijing Olympics with her much-fêted restaurant Alameda, chef Viviane Gonçalves is back with her latest venture, Chef Vivi. Set in simple premises on a quiet corner of Vila Madalena, the concept is refreshingly spontaneous: organic, seasonal ingredients on a small, daily-changing menu. On our visit, we tried the tasty chancliche cheese starter with zaatar spice mix, grilled mango and sautéed radishes (R$27.50) followed by a perfect oven-roasted rack of lamb in red wine sauce (R$67.50). Whatever you go for, save room for the dessert tasting menu (R$20), which features five colourful delights that should help offset the depression caused by a hefty bill. Alternatively, hunt out the weekday set lunch: an appetiser, main course and dessert for a more modest R$39.50. Rua Girassol 833, Vila Madalena (3031 0079/chefvivi.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Thu, Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39.50-$67.50; lunch R$39.50.

Plated history Tasting menu

mauro holanda/PRESS IMAGE

Food & Drink

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

São Paulo’s chef of the moment, Jefferson Rueda, has won awards in next to no time with his restaurant Attimo’s unusual combination of Italian and paulista countryside cuisine. Taking it to the next level, Rueda has just launched his first tasting menu, in which the chef takes diners on a journey through the history of the state’s immigration, in 14 courses. His take on virado à paulista (see photo), transforms a comforting local staple of rehashed beans with pork, sausage, rice, a fried egg and kale, into a thing of bite-sized beauty. R$220. Reservations essential. See listings.

JAPANESE Dô Hidden away on an unprepossessing back street of Pinheiros, Dô offers a good deal in a bijou package: quality Japanese food at comparatively reasonable prices, in a dining room with a cool, modern design aesthetic. The combo platters are pleasingly flexible, and traditionalists will delight in the dearth of cream cheese and mayonnaise. It’s also one of the few places in which the succulent white fish sashimi is a highlight rather than a disappointment. The location, low lighting and intimate size make this an ideal trysting spot. Rua Padre Carvalho 224, Pinheiros (3816 3958/ restaurantedo.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 7pmmidnight Sat. Prices sushi set for one from R$61; lunch R$34.

CHILEAN El Guatón You may be greeted and seated here by a portly moustachioed man with specs: that will be Señor Guatón. He’s from Chile, and has been running the front of house of this husband-and-wife neighbourhood restaurant for nearly 15 years. His wife, Dona Elba, keeps regulars happy with deliciously simple homemade Chilean food: ceviche (raw white fish with lime, onion and coriander), baked empanadas, and the comforting pastel de choclos – a chicken pie topped with a gratinated corn puree – are our favourites. Look out when Señor Guatón, with a twinkle in his eye, offers you one of his fiery

VEGETARIAN GOA Chef and owner

Augusto Pinto was one of the first chefs in São Paulo to use and promote organic ingredients, and continues to evangelise healthy, ecologically-aware eating through his courses and events.

The restaurant’s sumptuous decor, with red velvet banquettes and wroughtiron chandeliers, contrasts with the simple, healthy, lunch-only menu. Try the kibbeh with mint sauce or the delicious vegetarian cassoulet. The houmous and couscous also come highly recommended. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 1152, Pinheiros (3031 0680/ goavegetariano.com.br). Open noon3.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$22.50-$28; lunch BARGAIN R$19-$23.

JAPANESE Hideki Don’t let its rather modest exterior, or its location on a busy party street, put you off: inside Hideki, the focus is on the freshest of fresh fish, served in a convivial, family-friendly and decidedly non-trendy atmosphere.

The sashimi and sushi are a cut above, albeit with prices to match, and the tempura is light, crispy perfection. The emphasis here is on quality rather than quantity, though the lunchtime buffet is a relatively economical way to sample Hideki’s delights. To drink go for saké, which is served in a masu – a square cup – with the chilled liquid spilling out over the sides. It’s all in the name of good luck, apparently. Rua dos Pinheiros 70, Pinheiros (3086 0685/hidekisushi. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sun. Prices sushi set for one from R$90.

Other locations Rua dos Imarés 542, Moema (5049 3224); Rua Treze de Maio 1050, Bela Vista (3283 1833).

BRAZILIAN Las Chicas Gourmet

Garage Chefs Carla Pernambuco and Carolina Brandão, of restaurant Carlota fame, have turned their epicurean homemade chilli oils. Rua Artur de expertise to this smaller, more informal Azevedo 906, Pinheiros (3085 9466/ venture in Pinheiros. Las Chicas is an allelguaton.com). Open noon-3pm, 5pmday eaterie in a converted garage, whose 1am Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noonsmall space has been filled with bright 4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$75; colours and cutesy, feminine touches. lunch R$13.50-$25.

Go for breakfast, lunch, a light evening bite or just a post-shopping-spree coffee BRAZILIAN Feijoada da Lana Most (it’s a five-minute walk from the Rua paulistanos have a favourite place to eat Oscar Freire boutiques). The lunch feijoada – the heavy stew of smoked buffet may be pricey, but the quality is and sun-dried meats excellent, with interesting salads and that’s brewed up in hot dishes such as roast beef and cauldrons with sweet potato purée with orange. black beans and Indulge a sweet tooth with a served with rice, capuccino with doce de leite or kale, orange one of the chocolate desserts, slices and served in adorable, tiny tin farofa (toasted ultural is C e u q o Ch mugs. Rua Oscar Freire manioc nch at th. lu ff o 1607, Pinheiros (3063 0533/ Walk t art gallery flour). Lana, a e e str laschicas.net.br). journalist by See Art Metrô 2, Clínicas. Open 9amtrade, offers her 11pm Mon-Sat; 9am-6pm Sun. hugely popular Main courses R$37-$48; lunch version inside R$45-$55. a small but charming Vila Madalena house, where the rich stew FRENCH Le Jazz Brasserie A small might not be as elaborate as some of French bistro with a big reputation, the more expensive varieties, but where Le Jazz is packed, more often than not. smiling service and hearty goodness are Having secured a table, we opted for the guaranteed. Settle in for a long Saturday tabu de charcuterie starter (R$38.50). afternoon session, and wallow in a Its deep, rich terrine de campagne (a delightful food-induced paralysis. Rua pâté-like mix of meats) and magret fumé Aspicuelta 421, Vila Madalena (3814 (smoked duck breast) were instant hits, as 9191). Open noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; were the rillettes (pâté), torresmo (crunchy noon-5:30pm Sat, Sun. Lunch midweek pork fat), and the variety of meats and feijoada R$30; weekend feijoada and pickles. If we’d left at this point, all would unlimited caipirinhas R$55.

IN THE AREA

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ECLECTIC Miya The talented young chef Flávio Miyamura cut his teeth at some of the city’s top contemporary restaurants before setting up Miya in 2012, in a two-storey house in Pinheiros. The small eatery has an unassuming charm, with a long, brown leather banquette lining one of the exposed brick walls, while upstairs, an intimate cluster of tables leads through to the waiting area-cum-bar, set on an open-air terrace. As for the food, the menu is compact and eclectic, drawing inspiration from throughout Miyamura’s career. Don’t miss the foie gras terrine starter (R$42), or the crispy squid tempura. For mains, the pork with miso, Japanese chard and a sesame sauce (R$38) is a good choice. Rice dishes – creamy rice with duck, and a dark beer risotto with caramelised onions – are delicately sized, and served on striking, curved-rim plates.

Rua Fradique Coutinho 47, Pinheiros (3259 8760/restaurantemiya.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$79; lunch R$45 (Tue-Fri).

ITALIAN Pasquale It’s not Don

Pasquale, Donizetti’s most famous opera, that this restaurant is named after but the proprietor who was born in the Puglia region of Italy. For aficionados of Italian cuisine – which means, arguably, most of us – this restaurant offering the right combination of antipasti, pasta and wines, should hit the spot. In its new incarnation in Vila Madalena (the restaurant moved in 2011), what the restaurant may have lost in cosy charm, it makes up for in added space.

For antipasti, try the tender marinated eggplant, the rich and tiny boursin cheese balls, and some generous hunks of salami (cured on the premises); it all might just lead you to attempt a top-of-your-lungs Pavarotti number.

Rua Girassol 66, Vila Madalena (3081 0333/pasqualecantina.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$21.50-$41.

ITALIAN Spadaccino The sight of Spadaccino – a traditional Italian family restaurant with a yard out front – in the midst of the Vila Madalena nighttime chaos is like coming across the Red Cross in the midst of battle. It’s the sort of place where the sight of three generations of the same family eating together is the rule, rather than the exception, and where they know how to do traditional Italian food brilliantly.

The prawn risotto is tasty and has half a dozen big meaty prawns in it; the penne with mushrooms is spot on, and the crème brûlée is deliciously rich, and green – yes, green – with a perfectly crunchy crust on top. Rua Mourato Coelho 1267, Vila Madalena (3032

Sergio Mastrocola/press image

Food & Drink

have been tudo de bom. But on we went.

Perhaps thanks to a flustered kitchen in the Friday night rush, the entrecôte (R$38.50) came sadly overcooked; and the tagine de cordeiro (lamb tagine, R$5) – well, the chef must be in love, as they say round here. Oversalted, its sublime touches were lost in translation. Possibly we were unlucky, given those superb starters, but Le Jazz left these particular diners singing les bleus. Rua dos Pinheiros 254, Pinheiros (2359 8141/lejazz.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-3.30pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$21-$43; couvert R$5.50.

Layer cake Unpretentious food made with good ingredients is at the heart of the ever-changing menu at AK Vila. Try one of the latest dishes, like the Dobos Hungarian cake, served with pistachio ice cream (R$18).

8605 /spadaccino.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 10am-1am Sat; noon11.30pm Sun. Main courses R$30$53; lunch R$32-$42; couvert R$8.

NORTH AFRICAN Tanger With exposed

Cônego Eugênio Leite 523, Pinheiros (3088 4920/vinheriapercussi.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7.30pm-1am Sat; noon-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$105; lunch R$42; couvert R$6.90-$8.10.

brickwork, colourful tiling and a palette AUSTRIAN Wolf’s Garten Markus, of deep, earthy reds and yellows, from the Alpine ski resort of Lech, Tanger is more a treat for the eyes than opened Wolf’s Garten with his Brazilian the taste-buds. This upscale Moroccan wife Monica in 2007, bringing the only restaurant, recently relocated to an Austrian-speciality restaurant to town. increasingly restaurant-packed part of Markus, who takes pride in delivering Vila Madalena, serves an assortment of the food to your table himself more mezzes, tagines and couscous dishes. often than not, has made this cosy home The Royal Couscous, a signature dish a surprising delight. Try the perfectlyof succulent lamb, is particularly good, cooked lamb cutlet, or the house special though the set lunch menu can be more duck breast, served with banana da miss than hit. The busiest nights terra – plantain – followed by a are at the weekend and on phenomenal apfelstrudel. It’s Wednesdays, when not all fondue on the slopes. there’s a live belly Rua Lisboa 284, Pinheiros dance performance.

(3088 4367/wolfsgarten.

Rua Harmonia 359, Vila com) Open noon-3pm Madalena (3037 7223/ yal o R e h T Mon; noon-3pm, 7pmrestaurantetanger.com.br). us o c s u o C midnight Tue-Sat. Main Open noon-3pm, 7pmcourses R$38-$51; lunch midnight Tue-Thu; noonR$23-$31; couvert R$9.

3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses ASIAN Yakissoba da Vila This R$21-$45; lunch R$19.50-$29.50; informal little eaterie, with chopstick couvert R$7.50. and bowl stencils covering the outside ITALIAN Vinheria Percussi Founded wall, is ideal for picking up a stir fry in 1985 by Luciano Percussi, an Italian or ordering a delivery. It’s popular for from Liguria, Vinheria Percussi quickly not just its tasty food but also for the became a classic. Luciano’s daughter reasonable prices – the 33 varieties Silvia Percussi now runs the kitchen, of yakissoba start from R$8.50. If while her brother Lamberto oversees the indecision is your middle name, then go salon and the excellent wine cellar. The straight for the special yakissoba with scaloppine di pollo al limone con gnocchi beef, shrimp, chicken and mushroom, di ricotta e spinaci (chicken in lemon and leave the tough decision-making to sauce with spinach and ricotta gnocchi) which type of fresh fruit juice to have. and the marvellous filetto al gorgonzola Rua Fradique Coutinho 695, Pinheiros (filet mignon covered in gorgonzola (3032 2785). Open noon-10pm sauce) are standout dishes. To finish, Mon- Thu; noon-11pm Fri, Sat. Main try the wonderful classic tiramisu courses R$8.50-$25. Cash and debit made with mascarpone and coffee. Rua cards only.

GO FOR

Jardins VEGETARIAN Apfel It’s food with a

conscience at Apfel, whose philosophy goes beyond just vegetarianism: the restaurant’s cultural agenda includes hosting evening walks around the Centro as well as funding small theatre groups. Set in a delightful ivy-covered townhouse in Jardins, with a second location downtown, Apfel’s service is efficient and its friendly and the seasonally-changing menu spot on, featuring delights such as garlic mushrooms on wholemeal toast, and cauliflower gratin. But take it from us: when the nhoque de mandioquinha recheado com queijo de cabra (sweet parsnip gnocchi with goat’s cheese filling) is on the menu, you’d be a fool to resist. Rua Bela Cintra 1343, Jardim Paulista (3062 3727/apfel. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista. Open 11.30am-3pm, 7.3011.30pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm, 7.30-11.30pm Sat; 11.30am-4pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$38; lunch R$24.

Other location Rua Dom José de Barros 99, Centro (3256 7909).

BRAZILIAN Bolinha Set up in 1946 by taxi driver Affonso Paulillo, and now run by his two sons, Bolinha is all about feijoada. The service is top notch (as you’d hope, given the hefty prices), and when prompted, the waiters will happily tell you more about the humble slave origins of this hearty black-bean-andpork stew, guiding you through choices including the classic, old-fashioned version of the dish – nose-to-tail eating, Brazilian style – a more modern version, without the scary bits; and a ‘light’ version. Avenida Cidade Jardim 53, Jardim Europa (3061 2010/bolinha. com.br). Open 11am-5pm Mon; 11ammidnight Tue-Sun. Main courses R$52-$97.

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BRAZILIAN Capim Santo Morena

Leite’s Jungle Book restaurant features two gardens. The front bar patio is reminiscent of Bahian beaches, with wooden benches and throw pillows; and the stunning back garden is fit for Amazonian royalty (to sit here, reservations are a must). For an appetiser, go for a pastelzinho (a small fried pastry) or duck rolls with tangerine sauce. The

couvert comes with crackers and vatapá (fish paste with dried shrimp and dendê oil). Try the shrimp with pupunha (palm fruit) served in a green coconut shell. Last but not least, the waiters are attentive, warm, and entirely tuned in to the needs of the diners – they round out a perfectly divine dining experience. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 471, Jardim Paulista (3068 8486/capimsanto.com.br) Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$59-$89; lunch R$49-$73; couvert R$16.50.

BRAZILIAN Dalva e Dito When in

INTERNATIONAL Chez Lorena It’s no surprise at all to find Chez Lorena hitting the spot between chic and descolado (cool) with pitch-perfect precision: it’s owned by the same hip cabal of owners as Bar Secreto (see Nightclubs). The restaurant, which opened in 2010, has rapidly become a favourite casual-chic dining spot and attracts thinking-man’s celebs like Philippe Stark, spotted there in November. We recommend the ceviche and the risotto with tomato, broccoli and grilled baby calamari from the Spanish– Italian influenced menu; a seat on the front terrace for the see-and-be-seen brigade; and table at the back, intimately lit by candles at night, for those discreet about dining. Alameda Lorena 1989, Jardim Paulista (3081 2966/chez.com. br/chezlorena). Open noon-1am TueFri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 12.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$36-$66; lunch R$21.90-$25.90.

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Brazil, do as the Brazilians do with a daily dose of rice and beans. A taste of traditional Brazilian cooking at Dalva e Dito may just be the most expensive rice and beans you can eat in São Paulo, but many would argue that it’s worth the cost.

Chef Alex Atala, whose culinary prowess has gone global, has plucked the best of regional dishes from across the country at this sister restaurant to D.O.M. Unusual local ingredients from the Amazon to the cerrado create some really unique tastes such as the surubim, a fresh water fish served with a lemongrass sauce and jambu – a lip-tingling green herb. Choose from two types of moqueca – capixaba or the spicier baiana. To complete the experience, sit by the big kitchen window to watch the chefs at work. Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Jardim Paulista (3068 4444/dalvaedito.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon- 3pm, 7pm-3am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$107; lunch R$55; couvert R$8-R$16.

BRAZILIAN D.O.M. D.O.M. is the fiefdom of tattooed celebrity chef Alex Atala, who absorbs molecular gastronomy tendencies and gives them a very Brazilian twist. The food is balanced and harmonious, particularly in the tasting menus, and the vegetarian version is served with carefully selected juices and fruit essences to provide contrasts of colours and textures. If you’re prone to passing out at the sight of large bills,

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try the lunchtime executive menu, which gives a beautifully presented spin on home-made Brazilian food, using crunchy, toasted manioc farofa with beans, rice and chicken or John Dory. It sounds simple, but Atala takes it to a different level, earning the restaurant the number six ranking in the San Pellegrino world’s 50 best restaurants award, in 2013. Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardim Paulista (3088 0761/domrestaurante.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$107-$145; lunch R$59; couvert R$20.

Food & Drink

BRAZILIAN Brasil a Gosto Ready for a taste of the Amazon? Chef Ana Luiza Trajano floats the finest ingredients of the jungle river to your table. Start your adventure by ordering the lovely strawberry and caju caipirinha, artfully decorated with the head of the caju fruit (the unfamiliar, inedible cover of the cashew nut). The mini acarajé appetiser is a treat in which you assemble shrimp, avocado, pumpkin and the delicious hot sauce and onion vinaigrette into a brilliant, self-made recreation of the classic Bahian sandwich. For a main course, try the abadejo grelhado com crosta de baru (grilled haddock with a crust of Brazilian baru nut), or the grilled pirarucu – the largest freshwater fish in the world. Finish off with a tasting of the plum or banana cachaça – the sugar-cane tipple here reaches the level of a fine cognac. Reservations are recommended.

Rua Azevedo de Amaral 70, Jardim Paulista (3086 3565/brasilagosto.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Thu; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$46-$90; lunch R$44; couvert R$8-$12.

ITALIAN Emiliano Once you’ve sampled

Emiliano’s fresh robalo (snook) in a savoury crust with hot peppers, accompanied by sautéed tomato, aubergine and courgette, you’ll come to see why this restaurant, which goes by the same name as the hotel that houses it, is considered to have one of the best chefs in the city at its helm. If pasta appeals, try the potato-stuffed tortelli with caramelised onion in black truffle sauce, on parmesan shavings; or go for the pescada amarela (grey snapper) in salmoriglio sauce with clams and asparagus crostini. The restaurant has a lovely vertical garden that’s particularly picturesque at lunchtime, when it’s bathed in natural light. Rua Oscar Freire 384, Jardim Paulista (3068 4393/emiliano. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses R$43-$163; lunch R$53; couvert R$14-$15.

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Food & Drink

ITALIAN Fasano Head right through the elegant lobby of the Fasano hotel to the eponymous restaurant – a grand atrium awash with black marble and dark wood in an unmistakeable, classic 1930s style. The best dishes, which don’t come cheap, include the silky, perfumed raviolini d’Anitra al profumo d’arancia (R$99) – pasta filled with duck meat and orange sauce, an inspired deconstruction influenced by the classic French canard à l’orange – and the costoletta di vitello alla Milanese (veal Milanese, R$113), a classic dish that’s been on the menu here since the distant ’90s, when the Italian chef Luciano Boseggia was at the helm..

Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista (3062 4000/fasano.com.br). Open 7.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$89-$270; couvert R$29.

The cure Artisanal cold cuts

ITALIAN Margherita Allow yourself to be drawn to the brightly-lit, inviting aspect of this pizzeria, just off Avenida Paulista. Inside, red-and-white checked tablecloths are reminiscent of a traditional Italian pizzeria, though the menu also includes Brazilian touches such as requeijão (cream cheese) toppings. The namesake pizza is a must, while slightly more adventurous diners might like to try the Campesina, featuring aubergine, parmesan cheese and olives. Alameda Tiête 255, Jardim Paulista (2714 3000/ margherita.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 6.30pm-1.30am Sun-Thu; 6.30pm2am Fri, Sat. Main courses R$42-$59.

STEAKHOUSE A Figueira Rubaiyat

The number of architecturally significant and gastronomically superb restaurants in São Paulo is astounding.

Even so, finding gentrified country dining a block away from Rua Oscar Freire is a surprise. A huge 130-year-old fig tree dominates the dining area of A Figueira Rubaiyat, lending it an intimate, romantic air. The restaurant is famed for serving some of the best beef in the city and for catering to paulistano power couples and the financial elite.

The appetiser of carpaccio di funghi in truffle oil is a must, as are the pães de queijo. A main course mainstay is the sumptuous picanha sumus – premium top sirloin. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (3087 1399/rubaiyat. com.br). Open noon-12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$74-$235; couvert R$23.50. is one of the best of São Paulo’s many ’50s-style diners: the originals, of course, are the city’s thousands of humble streetcorner lanchonetes. Here at the slightly more upmarket Lanchonete da Cidade, it’s all about the burgers, with the succulent Bom Bom most in demand – a 220g churrasco-style burger with homemade tomato sauce. For vegetarians, the delicious mushroom-and-grilled-vegetable burger is a treat. Lanchonete’s french fries are also good, but paulistanos swear by the batatas rústicas – crispy fried discs of crunchy potato scattered with rosemary and cloves of sweet, juicy garlic. Alameda Tietê 110, Jardim Paulista (3086 3399/ lanchonetedacidade.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat; noon-1am Sun. Main courses R$14.50-$41. Other locations Rua Amauri 334, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Higienópolis, Avenida Higienópolis 674, Higienópolis; Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Magalães de Castro 12.000, Morumbi; Avenida Macuco 355, Moema.

FRENCH L’Entrecôte d’Olivier

You won’t have any trouble deciding what to eat at the restaurant formally known as L’Entrecôte de Ma Tante – all gastronomic dilemmas cease once you walk through the door, because celebrity chef Olivier Anquier serves just one dish: an entrecôte in a greenish sauce, supposedly his aunt’s secret recipe. We can’t help wondering what has happened to the formerly eponymous aunt; but whatever her fate, the solo star of the

MEXICAN Obá There is a serious lack of decent Mexican food in São Paulo – no doubt because of the serious lack of Mexicans. Restaurateur Hugo Delgado solves both problems: he’s a living, breathing chilango from Mexico City and, though sometimes hampered by inaccessibility to certain ingredients, he does a fabulous job on the portion of Obá’s menu that’s dedicated to his homeland – the carnitas (braised pork tacos), refried beans, guacamole and margaritas. The kitchen also sends out an array of Thai, Italian and Brazilian dishes to the convivial tables in this colourfully converted Jardins home; but though pretty much everything is good here, with such a gap in the city for truly good Mexican, it only leaves us wondering ¿por qué? Rua Melo Alves 205, Jardim Paulista (3086 4774/ obarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-4.30pm, 8pm1am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$39.90-$67; lunch R$21.90.

LucasTerribili/PRESS IMAGE

BURGER Lanchonete da Cidade This

com.br). Open noon-2.30pm, 7pmmidnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$107; lunch R$42-$48; couvert R$7.80-$12.80.

Flours, oils, and even tomatoes imported from Italy are more often than not considered a stamp of authenticity on the menus of many of the city’s Italian restaurants.

Not so at Mangiare, however, which has just launched five new dishes whose star ingredients are the artisanal cured meats sourced from a small producer in São Bento do Sapucaí, up in the hills in the São Paulo countryside. Go for the Piatto di Salumeria Artigianale (see photo, R$60) – a platter of freshly sliced cured meats and fruits, served only on Saturdays. See listings. Until December 2013. show, a traditional French rib eye steak, is good. It’s served with a pile of all-youcan-eat bistro-style fries (possibly São Paulo’s best); and there’s a manageable wine list that’s heavy on France and South America. The space, decked out in sexy reds and blood-red velvet curtains, feels slightly overdone, as you might expect from the fashionista/architect team that owns the place. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 17, Jardim Europa (3034 5324/ bistroentrecote.com.br) Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon-11pm Sun. Main course R$58; couvert R$4.80.

FRENCH Marcel The lone weak point of this excellent restaurant is its location inside a tasteless block of short-let flats.

But get past that and you’ll be presented with a set of unforgettable dishes, superbly executed by chef Raphael Despirite. A starter of frogs’ legs in garlic cream is a case in point; as are the impeccable soufflés – whether they be of the smoky seafood variety, or a sweet dessert soufflé of cupuaçu – just some of the unusual dishes that make this fine restaurant such a memorable experience.

Rua da Consolação 3555, Jardim Paulista (3064 3089/marcelrestaurante.

FRENCH Paris 6 The ‘6’ in the name is for the Parisian 6th arrondissement, encompassing Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and the ornate decoration and low-lit interior of Paris 6 is a conspicuous replica of that trés chic neighbourhood.

But Brazilian touches have snuck their way in here, too, from the big-screen TV showing futebol to the minor celebrities whose names adorn some of the dishes on the menu. The food seems better some days than it does others, though the steak frites and the house red are reliably good, and the almond trout – truite aux amandes – with mash is a buttery delight. The real draw here is that it stays open (and busy) 24 hours a day. And the clientele? Beautiful enough, for the most part, to be halfway to making their way onto the menu themselves. Rua Haddock Lobo 1240, Jardim Paulista (3085 1595/ paris6.com.br). Open 24 hours daily.

Main courses R$36-$79; lunch R$39$49; couvert R$12.

INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down classic restaurants. It’s centrally located – a handy place for lunch if you’re on Avenida Paulista – and decorated brightly and stylishly, if simply, with all-round windows and a circular bar in the middle. Spot is an enduring Sampa favourite – so come prepared to wait, over a drink at the bar or outside on the

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AMERICAN St. Louis Decked out in a

smart, kitsch Americana style, this small, unpretentious US-style burger joint is a comfortable, well-managed spot that doesn’t try to be too many things to too many people. The result? A damn good burger that’s priced a touch more fairly than many other comparable São Paulo burgers. Fans of poivre will genuflect at the kitchen door after devouring the excellent Pepper Crust burger (R$28.50) – 220g of pepper-charred beef with Swiss cheese, grilled onions, crunchy potato sticks, pickles and Dijon mayo.

Paired with the excellent fries and chased with raspberry lemonade, it’s a combo that teeters precariously on the brink of shock and awe. Rua Batataes 242, Jardim Paulista (3051 3435/stlouisburger.com. br). Open 6.30-10.30pm Mon; noon3pm, 6.30-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 6.30-11.30pm Sat; 6.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$18-$57.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia ITALIAN Attimo Set in a 1950s Modernist house, this newish restaurant (winner of Wallpaper* magazine’s prestigious Best New Restaurant award in 2012) retains many of the building’s original features, with a contemporary bar, decked out in swathes of stainless steel, tacked onto the side. Just as interesting as the design is the cuisine – a fusion dubbed ‘Italo-caipira’, blending Italian cooking with that of the ‘hick’ cooking of rural, inland São Paulo where the chef, Jefferson Rueda, grew up. Standout dishes include the sweet-potato gnocchi with pigs’ ears (R$43). To finish, don’t miss the Romeo and Juliet pavê (R$18) – a flamboyant remix of a simple Brazilian cheese-and-guava dessert, served here with a Catipury cheese cream and six textures of guava. Rua Diogo Jácome 341, Vila Nova Conceição (5054 9999/ attimorestaurante.com.br). Open noon4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$79; couvert R$12.80.

STEAKHOUSE Baby Beef Rubaiyat

The Iglesias family has over the years mastered the art of raising cattle.

Their excellent home-reared beef is served in restaurants that combine austerity with an elegant modernity, and impeccable service. The branches on Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and Alameda Santos are both favourites for business meetings. To see and be seen,

however, park up among the beautiful barbacoa.com.br). Open noon-3pm, people under the giant fig tree of the 7-11.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pmsister restaurant, A Figueira Rubaiyat, midnight Sat; noon-6pm, 7pm-11pm in Jardins. International jetsetters Sun. Fixed price R$94.90.

Other locations D&D will also find a Rubaiyat Shopping, Avenida restaurant in Madrid as das Nações Unidas well as Buenos 12,555, Brooklin Aires. Avenida (3042 9244); Brigadeiro Faria Morumbi Lima 2954, Itaim Shopping, Bibi (3165 8888/ Avenida rubaiyat.com.

Som o d e Roque Petroni br). Open noonImagemte perusing a d u e Jr. 1089, midnight Mon-Thu; Mus p an appeti xhibitions e u Morumbi (5181 noon-12.30am Fri, Work ’s innovative ks at n ri IS d 6898).

Sat; noon-6pm Sun. the M linger over – or Chez MIS. Main courses t FRENCH/ITALIAN R$76-$215. Other See Ar Bar des Arts It’s a locations Alameda feast for all the senses Santos 86, Paraíso (3170 here, from the postcard 5100) perfection of this old mansion BARBECUE Barbacoa Priced on a par with its manicured garden and the gentle with Fogo do Chão, the city’s other top gurgle of water in the marble fountain rodízio (all-you-can-eat) meat-a-thon, to the delectable food. Go for lunch Barbacoa isn’t cheap, but its range on a sunny day, when you can choose and quality of both cuts and creatures, between the excellent lunch buffet and including fish and wild boar, is à la carte options, or at night when the outstanding. While many churrascarias candlelit setting makes for a magical have all the ambience of an airport date. The menu features mostly French lounge, the gentlemen’s club-esque and Italian cuisine, with the odd touch atmosphere here, with an abundance of Brazilian. If you’re just stopping by of dark wood and leather armchairs, for a drink, the appetiser menu is well adds to the sense of self-indulgence, and worth a look too. Rua Pedro Humberto the bar is a cosy spot for a pre-dinner 9, Itaim Bibi (3074 6363/bardesarts. caipirinha. Expect a feast of seriously com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Fri; good flesh; elasticated waistbands noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main recommended. Rua Doutor Renato Paes courses R$42-$128; lunch R$66-$92; de Barros 65, Itaim Bibi (3168 5522/ couvert R$8-$12.

IN THE AREA

Food & Drink

terrace, for a table in the thick of the action, in amongst the chattering diners.

On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty, though it came sadly unaccompanied – follow our lead and order some of the delicious roasted vegetables and smooth, creamy mash as a side dish. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação. Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71.

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Open from Monday to Maonday from 12pm to 2am

The complete and best Italian restaurant

AMERICAN Butcher’s Market Chalkboard walls, phonograph lampshades and meatpacking brica-brac bring a slice of the Big Apple to the bustling Butcher’s Market, where carefully prepared gastronomic Americana – spicy chicken wings, toasted marshmallow milkshakes, pork ribs with hash browns – can be scarfed down at prices just high enough to stave off addiction. English-language menu items include the succulent mushroom burger – a thick patty of grilled prime beef smothered with melted mozzarella and tasty, seasoned mushrooms – and artery-clogging but oh-so-good cheese chilli fries (aka chilli cheese fries in the USA). If you’re not the type to be kept waiting, the less-crowded lunchtime seating might be your best bet. It’ll also give you the rest of the day to work off those happily ingested calories. Rua Bandeira Paulista 164, Itaim Bibi (2367 1043/butchersmarket.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat. Main courses R$23-$43; lunch R$30.

PERUVIAN Chifa Wok Of all possible fusion-food combinations, few feel as right as the type practised in Lima’s many ‘chifa’ restaurants, blending Chinese and Peruvian cuisine with artful simplicity. The pleasant, low-key Chifa Wok specialises, as its name suggests, in unpretentious dishes filled with fastcooked, wok-fried goodies. You can’t go wrong with a classic arroz chaufa (R$30-$36) – fried rice with a choice of meat or seafood. We went for the roast pork one to accompany a kam lu wantan (R$36) – a colourful jumble of flavours, featuring morsels of duck, chicken and pork flash fried with veggies and slivers of peach, topped with a tamarind sauce and a crown of light fried won tons. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 513, Itaim Bibi (4324 7868/chifawok.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 8-11pm Sat. Main courses R$20-$48; lunch R$30.

FRENCH/ITALIAN Kaá Avenida Juscelino

Trattoria, Buffet, Wine Cellar, Bar and Whisky Club

Free transfers from the city’s main hotels

Rua Treze de Maio, 848 Bela Vista - São Paulo/SP Phone: 11 2842.9620 www.villatavola.com.br

Kubitschek, with its eight lanes of traffic, might be the last place you’d expect to find one of the city’s most tranquil restaurants. But behind an anonymous white wall lies a veritable Garden of Eden. Narrow and tall, the dining space at Kaá is dominated by a spectacular 8m-high and 70m-long wall covered in more than 7,000 plants native to Brazil’s Atlantic forest. Architect Arthur Casas’s aim here was to transport the diner away from the urban chaos: once inside, there’s no visual connection with the city outside. To get the full experience of rainforest elegance, a table outside must be reserved in advance. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 279, Vila Olímpia (3045 0043/kaarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$68; lunch R$56; couvert R$13.

JAPANESE Kinoshita Improvisation is the key at this Japanese sensation.

Kinoshita practises a concept called Kappo cuisine: immaculately presented, unique creations prepared spontaneously by master sushi chef Tsuyoshi Murakami and his team.

After a hearty welcome, the maître d’

New in town Benedictine

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Food & Drink

A space for Italian cuisine and culture

The latest establishment to join one of the city’s finer dining streets is Benedictine – a bright space with exposed brick walls, punctuated by an exuberant vertical garden. The Brazilian chef-owner Marcilio Araujo, formerly at the helm of the French chain Le Vin, has his sights set on Italy, here, importing a handful of Italian pasta machines to churn out the likes of bigole (R$49), a type of fat spaghetti, and cavatelli (R$48) – small pasta shells – all made fresh each day. Rua Dr. Mario Ferraz 37, Itaim Bibi (3034 3125). directs you to menu gems such as mini Nametaki mushrooms caramelised in lemon and Shoyu conserve, delicately served in a hollowed lime. Innovations such as scallops and cod roe served in a lime and orange juice, downed in a martini glass, are joys to sample – with the accompanying steep price, of course. Rua Jacques Félix 405, Vila Nova Conceição (3849 6940/ restaurantekinoshita.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$30-$75; lunch R$49-$68; couvert R$8.

ARGENTINIAN Pobre Juan You could put the expansion of this Buenos Aires-inspired restaurant down to clever marketing, if it weren’t for the fact that the food here is seriously good. There are now four branches in São Paulo – the most charming being the one on the top of Shopping Cidade Jardim, with views out over the city – as well as in Campinas and Brasília.

Don’t miss Pobre Juan’s eponymous steak – a juicy top layer from the strip loin. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 525, Vila Olímpia (3845 4965/ pobrejuan.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$42.90-$84; couvert R13.90. Other locations Shopping Cidade Jardim (see Shopping listings); Rua Tupi 979, Higienópolis (3825 0917).

Ibirapuera & Moema ITALIAN Bráz We have heard it said that the pizza in São Paulo is so good, even the Italians are jealous. It’s a bold statement, but if you’re prepared to give it any credence at all, Bráz is probably a good place in which to make up your own mind, having been voted the city’s best pizzeria seven times by Veja. A typical meal, at the original Moema joint or any of the three other locations, should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas. There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu; but standouts include the Fosca (smoked ham, mozzarella and catupiry cheese) and the four-cheese Favorita, with taleggio, pecorino, caciocavallo and gorgonzola. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com.br). Open 6.30pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 6.30pm1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-12.30am Sun. Medium pizza R$45-$55.

Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090).

MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively TexMex themed bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families.

The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheese-and-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos, accompanied by a fun, fairly lowbrow

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Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana ITALIAN Cantina Roperto When

choosing a restaurant from a street chock-full of options like Bixiga’s 13 de Maio, the time-honoured trick of opting for the one with the longest queue is not one for the hungry. But for those willing to be patient, the huge portions of excellent pasta at this old-school classic are well worth the wait. At Sunday lunch, expect a roaringly full restaurant (and up to an hour’s wait); but once you’re seated, the good couvert and the poignant pictures of the oncesemi-famous on the walls should keep you entertained until the mains arrive.

Each pasta dish is plenty for two: give the spaghetti with homemade pesto or the carbonara a whirl, though non-

Critics’ choice

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Late-night nosh

Paris 6 All-night bakeries and cafés are ten a penny for a late-night bite, but Paris 6, SP’s grand dame of the night, is one of the only restaurants in the city that truly never sleeps.

Rex Dining at 3am doesn’t have to mean a greasy burger and chips. Go for the likes of salmon with a raspberry sauce, or filet mignon with a glass of wine, at this quirky restaurant.

Sujinho Waiters in bow-ties glide about this trad bisteca delivering meat in all its many guises, as steaks, burgers and beyond.

Brazilian palates may find the penne alla puttanesca over-salted. Choose your wine with care: some of the Italian reds can be an unwelcomingly attention-grabbing part of the meal. Rua 13 de Maio 634, Bixiga (3288 2573/cantinaroperto.com. br). Open 11.30am-midnight Mon-Thu; 11.30-1am Fri, Sat; 11.30am-11.30pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$130 (for two); couvert R$7-$9.50.

MACROBIOTIC Satori If you think

macrobiotic food is just for the brownrice-and-sandals brigade, Satori may just surprise you. It’s hidden away above a shop in an old Liberdade building, where patrons ring the buzzer next to an anonymous door to be let in. Inside and up the stairs, you’ll find a rustic and simple place with no menu. The chef, Tomio Kikuchi – a macrobiotic evangelist who is credited with having introduced macrobiotic food to Brazil – serves the lunch sitting, while his son Eiichi does dinner. Just don’t ask for a can of Coke. Praça Carlos Gomes 60, Liberdade (3242 9738). Open 11.30am2.30pm, 6-8pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am2.30pm Sat. Main courses R$10-$18.

JAPANESE Shin-Zushi It might be set on an isolated Paraíso corner away from Liberdade, São Paulo’s traditional Japanese neighbourhood, but Shin-Zushi still delights fans of Japanese food, and was awarded the best sushi in town by Estado de São Paulo’s demanding Paladar gastronomy magazine. The sushi is cut from top quality fish and it shows; while the rice dumpling, made from authentic Japanese grains, crumbles deliciously on the tongue. There’s also a good range of imported delicacies – if your wallet will stretch to it, try at least one toro tuna sushi – an unforgettable, if greasy, piece of tuna belly. Rua Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraíso (3889 8799).

Metrô 1 or 2, Paraíso. Open 11.30am2pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat. 6-10pm Sun. Prices two sushi pieces R$14; lunch R$28; couvert R$8.

of the pizza of your dreams. Because take it from us: the pizza marinara DOC and the margherita caprese – made with an exquisite tomato sauce, all Italian ingredients and within the norms established by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana – are the kind of pizza you could find yourself dreaming of, once you’ve sampled one, for a very, very long time. Rua 13 de Maio 1004, Bela Vista (3288 8502/pizzaria.com.br). Open 6pm1.30am Mon-Fri; 6pm-2am Sat; 6pm1am Sun. Main courses R$42-$68.50.

Other location Avenida Sabiá 786, Moema (5051 1229).

INDIAN Tandoor With only a handful of Indian restaurants in São Paulo, curry cravings can be hard to satisfy unless you go the home-cooked route. However, with fresh flavours and an impressive range of dishes, Tandoor is a good choice. To try a good mix, go for the meat-based thali – a mixed platter that includes rice, samosas, lentils, raita, lamb curry and tandoori chicken – the latter clearly cooked in a genuine clay oven. Our favourite dish, though, was the perfectly spiced chicken karahi – a genuine taste of India. Our only criticisms were the over-cooked naan bread, slow service and a less-than-lively atmosphere. Not to mention the expense, with main courses costing R$32-$50.

Though given the lack of competition, this is probably your best bet for a curry fix in São Paulo. Rua Doutor Rafael de Barros 408, Paraíso (3885 9470/tandoor. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10pm Sun. Main courses R$25.90-$55.90; lunch buffet R$29.90.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini INDIAN Govinda It’s Krishna by

way of Lisboa at this classic dining spot, situated snugly in the middle of a residential area. The 30-year-old Govinda represents an interesting mixture of Luso-Brazilian architecture and Indian decor. The ceiling is supported by open wooden beams (in a former 19th-century life, the house was a grease-processing factory), while sumptuous sub-continent furniture occupies the various rooms.

The couvert is a great start for the meal; eight different sauces with the house bread. You can’t miss with classic Indian dishes – go for the lamb or chicken curries or one of the tandoori specials for best results.

Rua Princesa Isabel 379, Brooklin (5092 4816/govindarestaurante.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm 7pm-midnight Sat.; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$32.90-$66.90; lunch R$33.90; couvert R$17.90.

Food & Drink

selection of cocktails. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday. Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/sisenor.com.br).

Open noon-3pm; 6pm-midnight MonFri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42. Other locations Citywide.

VEGETARIAN Recanto Vegetariano Overshadowed by skyscrapers along Avenida Berrini, this pleasant, allinclusive vegetarian buffet serves some of the best organic food in town.

Recanto Vegetariano exemplifies the energy of natural food lovers the world over: frustrated by the lack of fresh ingredients, these enterprising locals decided not only to open their own restaurant, but to also supply it with their own homegrown organic

BRAZILIAN Sobaria It might seem unusual to find soba noodles heading up the menu of a restaurant specialising in food from Mato Grosso do Sul. But soba is standard street food in cities like Campo Grande, where Japanese immigrants settled at the turn of the 20th century. Whatever their origin, the noodles are the star of the show here, served with strips of cooked egg, grated ginger and spring onions in a bowl of steaming, meaty broth (R$24-$28). Other specialities include the comforting sopa paraguaia (Paraguayan soup, R$20) – a paradoxically solid corn cake made with cheese and onion – and the tender though slightly over-salted cupim ao leite – strips of meat from the hump of the zebu cow – served with rice and manioc chips. Rua Áurea 343, Vila Mariana (5084 8014). Open 10am-11pm MonThu; 10am-midnight Fri-Sun. Main courses R$22-$38; lunch R$17.90BARGAIN $21.90.

ITALIAN Speranza This is one of

the most famous pizzerias in the city, founded in the late-1950s in Bixiga, one of the city’s Italian neighbourhoods per definizione. Order a hunk of sausage bread as a starter, pending the arrival

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Food & Drink

veggie food, and the lunchtime queues form early. Cardoso trained in a number of vegetarian restaurants in San Francisco before opening her own place, where she combines creativity with seasonal ingredients. Head straight to the counter where you can choose from one of two daily specials – served with either salad or soup for R$35 or R$45 on Saturdays – or another Brás, Mooca main course option from & Tatuapé the blackboard. White bean stews, grilled PORTUGUESE courgette tart, and Bacalhoeiro mandioquinha Tatuapé, in São (sweet parsnips) Paulo’s endless gnocchi with a Zona Leste, or fresh tomato East Zone, has sauce are just been one of São areiro g la a u a a few of the Paulo’s fastest Bacalh rfectly salted highlights. growing bairros The pe us cod is the o The creamy in recent years, eponymature dish at yoghurt dessert with deluxe real sign iro e o lh a c Ba with honey and estate shooting up an organic red fruit all over the place. sauce is a simple delight.

It’s good news for Rua Francisco de Morais gourmets, thanks 227, Santo Amaro (5181 0581/ to the ambitious new restaurants moinhodepedrarestaurante.com.br). that just keep opening. This relaxed, Open 8.30-11am, noon-3.30pm Monelegant restaurant is one of them, and it Fri; 9-11am, noon-4pm Sat. Prices set serves a classic of Portuguese cuisine: menu R$35-$45. bachalhau (salt cod). Kick things off with the octopus starter, fried in bacon fat with coarse salt, followed by the perfectly-salted bacalhau a lagareiro The North – salt cod with golden onion, served BARBECUE Churrascaria Anhembi with garlic slices, broccoli, green olives Smack bang next to Anhembi Parque and baked potato. For dessert, both the arena, this churrascaria feeds the five sweet rice powdered with cinnamon and thousand – and then some – that pass the delicate sericaria do Alentejo – a through Anhembi each month for all milk-and-egg pudding – are delicious.. manner of concerts and conventions. The Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé gaúcho traditions have been abandoned (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open in favour of a more crowd-pleasing noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; approach, with an array of international noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main dishes, ranging from sushi and grilled courses R$58-$98; lunch R$39; couvert snapper to classic Italian and Lebanese R$17. vegetables – the owners even provide photo proof of their agricultural prowess. Rua Flórida 1442, Brooklin (5506 8944/recantovegetariano.com.br).

Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; noon4pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$29.

No credit cards.

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dishes, served alongside its solid selection of meats. This eclectic combination may scare off the purists, but it’s a hit with legions of locals. Expect a no-frills space, but with especially attentive waiting staff.

Avenida Olavo Fontoura 327, Santana (2221 4146/churrascariaanhembi.com.br).

Open 11.30am-11.30pm daily. Fixed price R$71.90.

ARMENIAN Garabed A brisk 15-minute march uphill from Santana Metrô, Garabed is one of the city’s better-known off-the-beaten track restaurants, like nearby Mocotó. Unlike in most of São Paulo’s Middle Eastern joints, the bread here is homemade; and it’s good, light and chewy. Babaganoush comes doused with toasted pine nuts and herbs, and without the usual underlying acidity, and the juicy, meaty kaftas are served with fluffy rice. Of the imaginative range of esfihas, don’t miss the tasty and surprisingly light Armenian dried-meat version. The excellent food should help soothe the trauma of the decor, which has all the timeless ambience of an Eastern European waiting room. The only visual relief comes from watching the chefs up at the counter, busy shaping dough next to rows of glistening baklava. Rua José Margarido 216, Santana (2976 2750/casagarabed.com. br). Open noon-11pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$28.50-$58.

BRAZILIAN Mocotó Serving up arguably the best Brazilian food in the city, Mocotó is a foodie’s delight. Located in the anonymous mass of higgledypiggledy houses in the far northeastern suburbs, what it takes to eat at Mocotó is time, both in getting there and waiting for a table; so come with patience and a hearty appetite. The restaurant’s young chef, Rodrigo Oliveira, creatively updates traditional North Eastern dishes such

as baião de dois (black eyed peas, rice and a rennet cheese) or carne de sol – sun-cured beef – served with a whole head of garlic and baby chillies on the side. Oliveira even makes his own pork scratchings – torresmo. To finish, don’t miss the homemade ice-cream studded with pieces of rapadura – a solid fudge of unrefined sugarcane juice. And a shot or two of cachaça, don’t you think?

– to aid digestion, of course. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (2951 3056/mocoto.com.br).

Open noon-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$15-$60; couvert R$3.90-$6.90.

BRAZILIAN O Compadre The Lar Center shopping mall, which mostly sells furniture, may seem an odd spot to find a restaurant, but O Compadre is popular, nonetheless. During the weekend the vast space packs out with families, and it serves as a handy lunch choice for visitors to the immense, glassy Expo Center Norte convention centre nearby.

In contrast, the restaurant’s rustic Brazilian farm theme comes complete with wooden rafters, cow hide-covered bar stools, wagon wheels and a cart by the entrance. Fill up your plate at the buffet – there are sixty dishes, including beans, pastas, moquecas (fish stew), salads and some side dishes like fried okra and the bitter vegetable jiló, two of the house specialities. For grilled meats, order your favourite cut – top sirloin cap (picanha) and entrecôte are good bets – from the chef manning the charcoal grill at the centre of the buffet. Finish things off with one of their 200-strong line-up of cachaças from Minas Gerais. Avenida Otto Baumgart 500, Vila Guilherme (2252 3131/compadre.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-5.30pm. Price buffet R$59.90-$66.90.

The South

Rogério Voltan/press image

BARBECUE Fogo de Chão Brazil’s best-known barbecued meat franchise has three restaurants in São Paulo, plus branches in Brasília, Salvador, Belo Horizonte and across the USA. The owners are gaúchos, from Brazil’s South – the country’s cattle hotspot. So unlike some rodízios, Brazilian steak house restaurants, they don’t bother mucking up the menu with irrelevant sushi: just the best cuts of Brazilian meat, like picanha, fraldinha and maminha.

Grab your pincers and select the bits you like the look of from the big chunks of deliciously salted flesh the waiters bring around. Note that Fogo has one of the most extensive wine lists in the city.

For dessert, try the chocolate mousse with port. Avenida Santo Amaro 6824, Santo Amaro (5524 0500/fogodechao. com.br). Open noon-midnight MonSat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Fixed price R$103. Other locations Avenida dos Bandeirantes 538, Vila Olímpia (5505 0791); Avenida Moreira Guimarães 964, Moema (5056 1795); Travessa Casalbuono 120 (Shopping Center Norte), Vila Guilherme (2089 1736).

VEGETARIAN Moinho de Pedra

Frustrated vegetarians will be in for a pleasant surprise at Tatiana Cardoso’s elegant restaurant. The word is out about her gourmet take on healthy

Rib tickler The slow-roast rib sandwich with horseradish mustard and rocket (R$36), new at Miya. See listings.

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Bars & Cafés Beer weekender

Cups runneth over Exhibitors will serve more beer varieties than visitors will likely have time (or stomach) to try

Beer and skittles Thirsty crowds enjoying themselves at 2012’s festival

Beer Experience is at Pavilhão da Bienal, Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Portão 3, Parque do Ibirapuera (beerexperience.com.br/2638 7000) from 6pm-1am 27 September, 2pm-2am 28 September and noon8pm 29 September. Admission R$170 for three days; R$580 for three days with VIP entry.

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priced dishes, paired with complementary beer choices.

Accompanying the ongoing tastings are performances by carioca ‘countrycore’ rockers Matanza on opening night, MPB funkster Seu Jorge on the event’s second evening, and the 70-yearold samba institution, legendary Demônios da Garoa, closing out the festivities on the final day.

Continuing with the musical theme – gimmicky as it may be – an area dedicated to rock band-branded brews like Iron Maiden’s Trooper and Sepultura’s Weizen will be on hand, while the mezzanine’s Karavelle VIP area provides highrolling attendees an open bar and canapé buffet.

Serginho Massa/press image

two spacious floors will host fifty exhibitors and welcome an estimated 20,000 beer lovers.

Highlights of the three-day event include the popular itinerant food fair, Chefs na Rua, where some of the city’s top culinary stars will serve up reasonably

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Beer nerds, rejoice: a shift in the market is underway. Brazil’s bogstandard watery, mass-produced beers won’t be going anywhere in a hurry, but they’re being joined more and more by seriously good local brews. Within the last few years, microbreweries like Cervejaria Nacional in Pinheiros (see listings) have opened up, offering ales and stouts made on-site, and pricier artisanal brands such as the Ribeirão Preto-based Colorado, Baden Baden from Campos do Jordão and Belo Horizonte’s Wäls have been infiltrating the market with wellcrafted beers ranging from IPAs to Belgian strong ale styles.

Capitalising on the rising tide of passion for premium suds comes Beer Experience, a festival bringing together over 500 labels, plus beer-related cuisine and live music. Returning to the city for the third time, this edition has expanded to meet public demand by relocating to the immense Pavilhão da Bienal in Parque do Ibirapuera, where the building’s

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Bringing together hundreds of craft brews, good food and live music, the Beer Experience returns to tantalise beer lovers, says CM Gorey

Sip ’n’ sing (from top) Matanza, Seu Jorge and Demônios da Garoa

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How to use the listings We visit bars anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks. For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable.

NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the menu has full meal options is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Alberta #3 ‘Let your hair hang low’ is the motto at Alberta #3, one of the most buzzing joints in town. Upstairs is a comfy, low-ceilinged bar, while downstairs the DJs might be playing vinyl that customers (who tend to be little older than the youth that throng Rua Augusta) have brought along. The dancefloor could be jumping to anything from indie to disco.

Stylishly decorated, but with a haphazard, beatnik vibe, Alberta #3 is just as good

for happy hour (7-10pm) as it is on Saturday nights, when you may need to queue. Avenida São Luís 272, República (3151 5299/alberta3.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm).

Bar da Dona Onça Don’t be misled by the ‘bar’ in the name – this classic Centro destination is as much restaurant as watering hole, and its extensive menu, including pasta and meat dishes, draws crowds for both lunch and dinner. It’s well worth a visit even if it’s only to suss out the location, tucked in on the ground floor of Niemeyer’s iconic Copan building, and within walking distance of many of the city’s historic sights. Inside, tonguein-cheek leopard-print decor and wood panelling lend a cosy charm. Don’t miss the cashew caipiroska, or the aptly named croc milanesa – a sensationally crunchy beef schnitzel sliced up for sharing. Rua Ipiranga 200, loja 2729, Centro (3257 2016/bardadonaonca.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-11pm Mon-Wed; noon-midnight Thu-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7, caipirinha R$18.

Consolação & Higienópolis

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda

Drosophyla With a chaotically colourful, charming decor – a style they call ‘contemporary baroque’, but which might be better described as ‘eccentric gentleman artist’s upmarket squat’ – this discreet little bar is popular with a slightly older, more bohemian crowd and is a great spot for a romantic night out. From the outside, it’s just a quiet doorway on a gloomy street. But inside, the main event is a leafy, warmly illuminated garden scattered with mismatched tables and chairs. Glowing with lights at one end is a cosy little shed with a bar inside; and up a flight of steps is a smoker’s patio which even has a few plants choking in the fumes.

Rua Pedro Taques 80, Consolação (3120 5535/drosophyla.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 7pm-2am Mon-Wed; 8pm-2am Thu; 8pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$13; minimum spend R$20-$40.

Lebowski This cosy Barra Funda bar crams in as many references to the 1998 Coen brothers movie, The Big Lebowski, as possible, from bowling-pin lights to an alley-styled bar counter, and most important of all, a menu dedicated to the white russian. Those who aren’t partial to The Dude’s milky-coffee cocktail of choice can pick from a solid selection of other vodka-based drinks, and even some vodka-based twists on other classics, such as the (rumless) vodka mojito. Take ten steps into this bar and you’ll have already scoped out the entire space. But while it may be small, there’s still room for a tiny, darkened dancefloor, where DJs spin a

Critics’ choice Top pub grub

Exquisito! The giant murals and retro posters coupled with the colourful decor, voluble chatter and general sense of life give this bar-cum-restaurant a uniquely Latin American vibe. No wonder you sometimes have to queue for a table, even on a Sunday night.

They serve food and cocktails from all over the continent, but the ceviche is particularly recommended and the chilli con carne will feed three. Rua Bela Cintra 532, Consolação (3854 6522/exquisito.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6pm-1.30am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu; 6pm-late Fri, Sat; 6pm-1.30am Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$14.

Sancho Bar y Tapas A classier alternative to Rua Augusta’s more low-rent watering holes, Sancho Bar y Tapas carries its Spanish theme from the menu – a mix of tapas dishes to share and individual pintxo-style portions of bread with ambrosial toppings, lined up along the long, underlit bar – through to the décor, with an eclecticism that takes in everything from vintage bullfighting posters to Basque flags. The music, too, blends Spanish chart tunes and rock, with the live flamenco guitar show a real treat for Mondays and Wednesdays (8.30-10.30pm). Spanish wine can be ordered by the glass (R$15-$30), though you’ll need psychic powers to interpret the cryptic cocktail menu, with house concoctions like the ‘Sancho’ listed by name but devoid of any kind of explanation. Rua Augusta 1415, Consolação (3141 1956/sanchobarytapas.com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-1am Thu; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-3am Fri; 5.30pm-3am Sat; 5.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

The hot list – bars

O’Malley’s For hearty pub grub, the buzzy expat hangout O’Malley’s serves up ruddy good bangers and mash (R$34), and Irish Stew (R$29) – a creamy take on the mutton and veg stew.

All Black The black stuff (that’s Guinness, by the way) can be had in this upmarket pub’s pies (R$17), in its burgers (R$15), or the old-fashioned way – in a pint glass (R$18).

Twelve Bistro British pub classics are as likely to be teamed with a good wine as they are an ale at this bistro.

Go for the Australian chefowner’s latest speciality, the bolovo (R$12, see photo) – aka Scotch egg – a classic British picnic treat of egg wrapped in sausage meat.

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O Catarina If the city won’t go to the beach, bring the beach to the city. That’s the creed of Florianópolis fisherman Renato Silvy Andrade, who recently opened this small boteco.

With its scattering of tables outside on the pavement, and a handful inside, it’s a family affair here, and as simple and welcoming as if you were at a beach barraca (tent). Feast on the plump oysters, delivered from Floripa by plane on Tuesdays and Fridays, and served fresh (R$27 for half a dozen), with lime. Team them with an artisanal cachaça (R$3), followed by a plate of heavenly, crunchy fried sardines (R$15 for four) or a casquinha de siri – stuffed crab shell (R$12). Rua Ministro Ferreira Alves 131, Perdizes (2369 5657). Open 4pm-1am Tue-Fri; 1.30pm-1am Sat; 1.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$16.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Artilheiros Football is at the heart of this laid-back bar, from the team scarves and vintage football magazines adorning the white-washed brick walls, to its commitment to broadcasting all the major football games from South America and Europe. You won’t find rowdy fans in here, though – it’s not that kind of place. A R$5 surcharge on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays covers live MPB and samba rock, when the football’s not on, that is. The only downside here is the limited menu and beer selection. The pumpkin and dried meat croquettes – recommended by our waiter as the best thing to pick – were over-fried on our last visit. Rua Mourato Coelho 1194, Pinheiros (2922 0314/artilheirosbar.com.br). Open 8pm-midnight Wed, Thu; 8pm-3am Fri; 3pm-3am Sat; 4pm-10.30pm Sun Prices 600ml beer R$7.60; caipirinha R$16.

Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bow-tied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel. But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons.

The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon. Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent redand-black bar with some of the best cocktails in town. Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (3815 1364/barastor.com. br/subastor.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-2am Tue, Wed; 6pm-3am Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat, noon-6pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50.

Cervejaria Nacional No beer in São Paulo travels a shorter distance from barrel to glass than at this microbrewery-cum-bar. Sit at the

counter on the first floor overlooking the vast fermentation tanks below, or head up to the top-floor dining area for a cosier spot. If you like beer, go the whole hog with the degustação (R$19.90) – a 150ml sampler of all five of the home brews – a weiss beer, a lager, an India pale ale (IPA), a brown ale and a stout. Friendly service and good food make this an excellent choice for a group night out: go for the live jazz on Tuesday nights and blues on Thursdays. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros (3628 5000/ cervejarianacional.com.br). Open 5pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 5pm-1.30am Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$7.90; caipirinha R$14; cover R$12.

Filial This bar is owned by the Altman brothers, who opened their first Vila Madalena bar in 1980 and dedicated it to choro. Since then the bar, once called the Clube do Choro and now known as Filial, has moved around the area, but it’s still the aftershow bar of choice for local musicians.

There’s an impressive list of caipirinhas – try the cachaça with lima da pérsia (lime). Sit outside and watch the Vila Madalena wildlife stumble by. Rua Fidalga 254, Vila Madalena (3813 9226/barfilial.com.br). Open 5pm-4am Mon-Fri; noon-3am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.

Food & Drink

loud post-hipster soundtrack from the back of the house. Rua Barra Funda 1070, Barra Funda (lebowskisp.com.br).

Open 11pm-5am Fri-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7,50; caipiroska R$16. No credit cards.

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Pirajá It’s set on a traffic-heavy corner of Faria Lima, but somehow the trees outside and the bright, pleasant atmosphere inside conspire to make Pirajá customers feel a million miles from the traffic jams and the long schlep home. Very far in fact, since it’s modeled on Rio’s classic botequins, and has a reputation for being the most carioca of all São Paulo bars. The lovely decor, all warm wood and neat white tiling, combined with the smart, prompt service make an evening here a pleasure – as does the excellent menu.

Get there early to bag a spit-roasted chicken – franguinho na TV (R$36), named after the glass-fronted, TVlike oven – they sell out fast. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 64, Pinheiros (3815 6881/piraja.com.br). Open noon-1am Mon-Wed; noon-2am ThuSat; noon-7pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.70; caipirinha R$16.50.

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Twelve Bistro It’s all about beer and tasty, home-cooked food here.

The eclectic menu – created by the Australian owner and chef Gregor Caisley – is well executed but there’s still a sense here that the bar (opened in 2011) has yet to properly hit its stride. On a Friday night recently, the pleasant terrace fronting the street – the quieter end of Simão Álvares – was only half full. The curried lamb pastéis with mango chutney (R$16), a tasty take on the much-loved deepfried Brazilian snack, are a good bet to start. Team them with one of a respectable selection of beers, with plenty of Brazilian options to choose from, including the popular Colorado brand. Rua Simão Álvares 1018,Vila Madalena (3562 7550/twelvebistrot. com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Sat; noon-7pm Sun. Prices chope R$4.90; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

Jardins

Imagine somewhere arretado!

All Black Somewhat incongruous with its designer neighbours on the chic shopping street, Rua Oscar Freire, All Black is nevertheless an upmarket take on the pub concept, with a black façade, dark wood throughout the interior and two big screens for broadcasting football and rugby matches (though don’t expect to catch a game on Sunday, as you’ll find it shut). All the usual suspects from across the pond are on tap behind the bar, including Guinness, at an eye-watering R$19.50 per pint, which can be paired with the Guinness burger (R$20) – a juicy beef patty with gooey mozzarella cheese, let down only by its side of fries that lacked any crunch. Rua Oscar Freire 163, Jardim Paulista (3088 7990/allblack.com. br). Open 6pm-midnight Mon; 6pm-1am Tue, Wed; 6pm-3am Thu, Fri; 7pm3.30am Sat. Prices half pint of beer R$8; cover R$15-$45.

Bar Balcão Find a space at the curvy wooden counter that snakes all the way around the ground floor of this welcoming, friendly bar. Then settle in with a chope and soak up the atmosphere.

Popular with journalists, artists and descolado Jardins residents, the twists and turns of the communal bar and the convivial atmosphere make this the best bar in town for conversation, including those struck up between customers, cheek by jowl at the bar. There’s no music and no fuss here – it’s simple and stylish, attracting a slightly older, funky crowd.

The food, like the service, is simple but good quality – and that giant pop art painting on the wall? It’s a genuine Roy Lichtenstein. Rua Dr. Melo Alves 150, Jardim Paulista (3063 6091). Open 6pm1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.60; caipirinha R$11.80.

Main courses, drinks and brazilian appetizers

Feijoada on Saturdays at this Samba Spot Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque, 471- Vila Madalena Reservations: (11) 3813-6814 | facebook/cantomadalena

O’Malley’s This big, noisy gaff would love to be called a traditional Irish pub, and a home-from-home for every expat in town. But O’Malley’s is just as popular with Brazilians as it is with homesick airline pilots looking for someone to talk to – or more – on a layover. It’s more like one of the chain pubs you find inside London railway stations than a cosy country boozer; but there are beers from Mexico, the Czech Republic and Belgium, and there’s nowhere better to get drunk while watching Irish rugby, if that’s your bag. Alameda Itú 1529, Jardim Paulista (3086 0780/omalleysbar. net). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon4am Mon-Thu; noon-5am Fri, Sat; noon-4am Sun. Prices pint of beer R$7-$20; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10$35 (after 10pm).

Skye Regarded as one of the city’s modern architectural wonders, Hotel Unique’s half-moon design is certainly eye-catching. And it’s the only place many visiting star DJs and other high flyers will stay. Consequently, the hotel’s signature rooftop poolside bar is as selfconsciously fashionable as you might expect – but the view and the pool are simply stunning. Order a mojito and lounge on one of the outside deck chairs under the mood-enhancing lighting. Hotel Unique, Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700, Jardim Paulista (3055 4710/skye. com.br). Open 6pm-12.30am Mon-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$12; caipirinha R$26.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Botequim do Hugo This charming, homely bar is in stark contrast to the relentlessly upmarket restaurants and bars of Itaim, especially if there’s no room in the rustic yard and you have to sit in the back room with the beer crates, the fish tanks, and the deep freeze. It’s the Brazilian equivalent of an English country pub, except that the beer is cold, and the buracos quentes (minced meat and cheese-stuffed rolls) are excellent. Don’t dilly-dally on the way, because it closes early. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1014, Itaim Bibi (3079 6090/botequimdohugo.com.br).

Open 4-10pm Mon-Fri. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled by the hum of chatter as you approach Bottagallo, or by the huddles of people outside, relaxing on the long benches with a beer or standing around chatting.

Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; and happily – because the wait is well worth it. Kick off with one of the no-fuss house cocktails to get things going – the Vesper martini, with a hint of lemon, is a good call, whether piccolo (R$18) or regular (R$23). Once inside and settled at one of the rustic wooden tables, just let the efficient, friendly waiters keep the cold chope coming, and order a plate or two of the delicious, made-for-sharing tapas. Rua Jesuíno Arruda 520, Itaim Bibi (3078 2858/bottagallo.com.br). Open 6.30pmmidnight Mon; 6.30pm-1am Tue-Thu; 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; noon2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$16.50.

Ibirapuera & Moema Bar do Juarez There is a subtle art deco-aesthetic at work in both branches of the ever-popular Bar do Juarez. Both get packed with older crowds drawn to the wide selection of whiskies and cachaças, and the table-top mini grill for juicy beef cuts always goes down a storm, even if it tends to fill the secondary salon at this, the original Moema branch, with a rather unsavoury smell. The excellent self-service, per-kilo spread of bar snacks blows most other bars right out of the water with its olives and cheeses, cold cuts and pickles; but avoid the nasty, watery caipirinhas with their thin-sliced lime. Avenida Jurema 324, Moema (5052 4449/bardojuarez. com.br). Open 5pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope Other R$5.30; caipirinha R$14. locations Avenida Deputado Franco de Lacerda 642, Pinheiros (3578 5228); Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 1164, Itaim (3078 3458); Rua Joaquim Nabuco 325, Brooklin (3969 4988).

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana As Mineiras Set on a quiet residential street, this bar and its adjacent store are a twin homage to São Paulo’s neighbouring state of Minas Gerais. Folk art chickens and bottles of hot peppers from Minas adorn the shelves around the bar. Take a seat beneath the wagon-wheel chandeliers and take your pick of shareable mineiro

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Barnaldo Lucrécia This beautiful yellow period house in Paraíso is where many paulistanos go to celebrate their birthdays around the big wooden tables upstairs – with pastéis, plenty of beer, and if the live band playing Brazilian hits is good enough, a conga around the bar. And with the bar staff acting as cheerleaders and distributing party hats and streamers, be warned: there’s no graceful way to avoid getting involved.

Rua Abílio Soares, 207, Paraíso (3052 2145/barnaldolucrecia.com.br). Metrô 1, Paraíso. Open 7pm-1am Tue, Wed; 7pm1.30am Thu; 7pm-3am Fri; 8pm2.45am Sat; 7.30pm-1.30am Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7.80; caipirinha R$17.80; minimum spend R$0-$35.

The Blue Pub Set just round the back of the Maksoud Plaza hotel, The Blue Pub is a good place for after-work drinks on a Friday. The main upstairs bar has the feel of an old pub that’s been given a brush-up; while in the low-lit downstairs, things are cosier, with a classic pub bar.

The bar has an array of good imported bottled beer, and Heineken, Newcastle Brown and Guinness on tap – plus spicy vegetable pasties. It’s not, however, blue at all – it’s more of a mousy, steely grey.

How very British. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 384, Bela Vista (3284 8338/thebluepub. com.br). Open 4pm-2am Mon-Wed; 4pm3am Thu-Sat; 3pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$11; caipirinha R$16; minimum spend R$15-$30.

Choperia Liberdade A gloriously kitsch and raucous atmosphere prevails at this karaoke hangout in the heart of São Paulo’s Japanese district. The bar also has a big back room full of pool tables, which tends to fill up atmospherically with smoke from the grill. The food isn’t amazing, the dancefloor is more of an ad-hoc space cleared in the throng; and the karaoke singers tend to be more miss than hit; but it’s great for a messy, drunken night out. At weekends, it’s packed, and note that you’ll need to get your name down early if you want your three minutes of fame. Rua da Glória 523, Liberdade (3207 8783). Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 7pm-5am Tue-Thu; 7pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-5am Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$0-$10.

Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss. There’s limited space inside, so expect to wait for a seat, or settle for standing-room on the pavement outside, next door to the extraordinary Sabesp water-tank building. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas,

as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts.

Hopefully not though. Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/ velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm-12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

Food & Drink

staples like pastel de angú (corn meal fritters) and bolinhos de feijão (bean balls).

The real draw, though, is the drinks menu, with a comprehensive selection of cachaças and bonus happy hour specials that includes 2-for-1 caipirinhas every day except Saturday. Rua França Pinto 965, Vila Mariana (5083 5835/asmineiras. com.br). Open 4-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cervejaria Ô Fiô Ale aficionados and lager lovers will be drawn to this bar’s more-than-comprehensive beer menu.

Come on a sunny afternoon to enjoy the pleasant outdoor patio space while you make a start on trying the hundreds of Brazilian and international beers. The Brazilian beers are divided by region, with more than 25 beers from São Paulo state alone. Baden Baden’s smooth stout gives Guinness a sub-tropical run for its money; or how about one of the ten labels from Rio Grande do Sul, where the influence of Brazil’s German immigrants is most obvious? A varied clientele comes on Saturday afternoons to listen to live samba de raiz while lining their stomachs with a filling feijoada (R$32). Rua Lício Marcondes Amaral 51, Morumbi (3721 6636/cervejariaofio.com.br). Open 6pmlate Mon-Fri; noon-late Sat, Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.50-$200; caipirinha R$12; cover R$7-$9.

Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo. References to his work pepper the bar, from his cheery face in photos and caricatures to excerpts from his books on the napkins, and even in the menu too, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book. Find savoury snacks like the delicious battered brie with chilli jam (R$30) on the menu under ‘piriris’ – a word of Veríssimo’s own invention, meaning little bites to eat. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar. com.br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am-2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

The North Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city in northern suburb Freguesia do Ó is a São Paulo mecca for chicken and beer. Go early on a sunny afternoon and bag a table outside on the square overlooking the church. Kick things off with the infamous chicken and catupiry coxinha. Beer lovers should try one of the beer-tasting menus, which meander through Brazilian, British and even rare Trappist beers. Each one is served at the right temperature and in the correct shape of glass. Consider lining your stomach first with a frango completo – a spit-roast chicken served with polenta, farofa and salad. Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (3932 4818/frangobar.com.br) Open 11am-midnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.60; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

The hot list – cafés How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice-cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

New in town Frida & Mina

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

NEW means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

ICE CREAM Cuor di Crema Peer through the window on your way into this gelateria and you may see ingredients being spooned into the vertical churner for that day’s latest batch of creamy Italian gelato. Inside, twenty or so different tubs of ice-cream, each topped with an elegant stainless steel lid, can make choosing a time-consuming process. We loved the smooth and creamy pistachio and nutty nocciola, though the Brazilian fruta do conde was a bit bland.

Shiny white tables and overly bright lighting lend a clinical feel to the interior, livened up on our visit by brigades of mums and sugar-high kids. Rua Manuel Guedes, 394, Itaim Bibi (3071 3147/ courdicrema.com). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Thu; 10am-midnight Fri, Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.30-$8.50; small pot of ice-cream R$9.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro LANCHONETE Bar e Lanches Estadão

A pioneer in 24-hour service, Estadão, as it’s best known, is a boho hangout from the old school. Its name is a reference to the Estado de S. Paulo newspaper, which was next door in the 1970s. With a simple, egalitarian atmosphere, the place hosts a crowd that includes artists, taxi drivers, policemen, executives and motoboys – bike couriers. Viaduto Nove de Julho 193 (3257 7121/estadaolanches.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 24 hours daily.

Prices cafezinho R$2.50; sandwiches R$4-$22. 24 HR

CAFÉ Café No Vidro Former businessman Aldo de Rosa opened this no-frills café as a place in which to preserve the traditional filter coffee method. His sister-in-law Rossana Loureiro is in charge of the brewing – she only makes two litres of coffee at a time. With each new batch, she rings a brass bell to let passersby know that the fresh coffee is served. Rua Sete de Abril 111, República (3129 8523).

Open 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri. Prices filter coffee R$1.50; sandwiches R$4.50-$6.50.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros CAFÉ Coffee Lab If you’re looking for a full immersion in the world of Brazilian coffee, this is the place. Isabela Raposeiras, the renowned barista and proprietress of Coffee Lab, has created a quirky space here in Vila Madalena, complete with a Diedrich coffee roaster. That’s one of the best roasters in the world, FYI, and a wonderfully Heath-Robinson looking contraption it is too. Fittingly, the café resembles a lab, with staff kitted out in overalls making coffee with a nerdy attention to detail. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1340, Vila Madalena (3375 7400/coffeelab. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$4.50.

BAKERY A Quinta do Marquês It’s worth making a special trip to this bakery-cum-restaurant just to slowly devour one of the Portuguese custard tarts (pastel de nata), with a cremoso doce (R$4.50) – a sweet, creamy coffee.

For something savoury, try the bolinhos de bacalhau – fried codfish balls (R$1.80 each). Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 1853, Jardim Paulistano (3371 2300/ aquintadomarques.com.br). Open 6am11.30pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3, sandwiches R$7-$8. Other location Rodovia Castelo Branco km 57.

Ibirapuera & Moema

Organic milk is in the custard base for the ice cream, churned out daily, at Frida & Mina Sorvete Artesanal, a new venture with an artisanal approach. Whether you opt for classic flavours like coffee – made using beans grown in the São Paulo countryside – and mint choc chip, with flakes of Bahian chocolate, or go modish with salted caramel or strawberry with balsamic vinegar, the approach here is as fresh and local as it comes. Rua Artur de Azevedo 1147, Pinheiros (2579 1444/fridaemina.com. br). Prices cafezinho R$5; ice cream R$7-$13.

Jardins ICE CREAM Bacio di Latte Join the queues waiting to savour the incredible ice-cream at this chic part-Scottishowned gelataria on Rua Oscar Freire.

The gelato machines, ice-cream cabinets

and even the spatulas, were all imported from Italy, but the ice-cream is made right here. Rua Oscar Freire 136, Jardim Paulista (3662 2573/baciodilatte.com).

Open noon-10pm Mon-Wed; noon11pm Thu-Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4; ice-cream R$8-$12.

CAFÉ Pain et Chocolat This is the place for a blowout weekend breakfast (R$32.90), with everything from cakes, breads, fruits and cheeses to eggs and crêpes. Amongst the treats on the menu are the Maria Fernanda (R$8.90) – chocolate mousse with banana crème brûlée. Rua Canário 1301, Moema (5094 0550/painetchocolat.com.br). Open 11am-10pm Tue-Fri; 8.30am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$16.50-$19.90.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana café Lady Fina This homely spot, with airs of a West Berlin café, is the result of two years of planning by the owner, exmodel Laura Wie. She dug out old family recipe books to put together a menu, whose highlights are the German-style desserts and pastries – original recipes from Wie’s grandmothers – like the Frau Sampio, an orange flan (R$9.50). The vibrant reds and floral prints provide bonus interior design inspiration. Rua Loefgreen 2481, Vila Mariana (2359 2080). Open 11am7pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$16.30-$19.80.

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Out & About This month in São Paulo

Rochelle Costi/press image

Art & Museums 40 Shopping & Style 44 Film 45 Gay & Lesbian 49 Music & Nightlife 50 Football & World Cup 2014 54

Ocean view An idyllic scene from Rochelle Costi’s career retrospective at Luciana Brito Galeria

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Art & Museums Far away, so close

Among the women One of Salgado’s images of the Amazonian Zo’e tribe in a moment of repose

animals and isolated villages. This time around, the environmental focus is on the pure and preserved areas of Earth. And within them, humans are still in the frame, but as

SEBASTIÃO SALGADO/press image

Politically correct as it may be to espouse eco-causes, few artists walk the walk like the Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado.

Having been internationally recognised for his virtuoso portraits, his forty-year career in photojournalism has also led him to capture a variety of groups directly impacted by industrialisation and environmental changes. With projects like ‘Trabalhadores e Êxodos’ (Workers and Exodus), he has won prestigious awards and fame; and more importantly, a platform for raising awareness and bringing attention to global problems.

‘Genesis’, the most recent work of the Minas Gerais-based economistturned-photographer, resulted in a book, a documentary by the German director Wim Wenders, and a show featuring 245 images opening this month at SESC Belenzinho.

With his trademark aesthetic of luxurious black-and-white scenes revealing contrasts and textures so perfect they almost look airbrushed, Salgado’s latest work shifts his focus to more untouched aspects of life on Earth: pristine landscapes, exotic

SEBASTIÃO SALGADO/press image

Sebastião Salgado’s photographs provide a rare insight into the world that was, and is, says Marina Monzillo

Tailpiece Salgado’s unforgettable shot of a southern right whale lobtailing

an integral part of nature.

Over the course of eight years, Salgado traveled to remote places such as the Galapagos Islands, Ethiopia, New Guinea and Sumatra to complete his work. In Argentina’s Patagonia, he captured a southern right whale lifting its tail from the water, in a close-up so sharply focused that the ribbed texture of the mammal’s flesh is visible. In Siberia, he faced the -45C cold to snap shots of the nomadic Nenets people. In the Amazon, he lived amongst the Zo’e tribe, which only fifteen years earlier had never had any contact with the outside world. After Salgado and the tribe established a trusting bond, he recorded their everyday activities, such as body painting with annatto and making arrows (above).

Unveiling the project, Salgado claimed that he ‘wanted to show a fully balanced world’, and hoped that viewers of the exhibition would ‘rediscover that a landscape – just like a human being – has dignity’.

Salgado does his part to preserve

the planet via the Earth Institute, an initiative that raises funds for restoring devastated green areas and promotes education.

But it’s Salgado’s art that remains the most persuasive tool for furthering his cause. At SESC Belenzinho, his images are first revealed outside of the exhibition itself – and without signs – obscuring the vast size of the show, which is divided into five sections by the ecosystems each represents.

One striking shot of a herd of buffalo Salgado photographed from inside a balloon, stands out due to its immense 13-by-10-metre size.

The silvery light captured in the magnificent image invites viewers to dive into this unrivalled collection of a fantastic and unspoiled world.

‘Genesis’ is at SESC Belenzinho, Rua Padre Adelino 1000, Belém (sescsp.org.br/belenzinho/2076 9700).

Open 10am-9pm Tue-Sat; 10am7.30pm Sundays and holidays. Until 1 December. FREE

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Art listings Retrospective Rochelle Costi How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres.

Recommended institutions are marked with a .

Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/ galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm MonFri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista behind a blank façade that the gallery sometimes uses as a canvas. Inside, in a set of spaces designed by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists, investing considerable care and effort into their careers. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/galeriavermelho.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Sergio Romagnolo, Joana Vasconcelos, young British artist Jack Strange, and psychedelic rangers Assume Vivid Astro Focus are some of the many artists represented by this always interesting gallery. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Luciana Brito Galeria This elegant gallery represents 20 high-calibre artists from Brazil and abroad, including iconic names like Marina Abramovic, Regina

With a practice that seeks out the beauty in the ordinary, the Brazilian artist Rochelle Costi opens a major solo show this month with two series of works.

The first, ‘O Tempo Todo’ (‘all the time’), comprises a retrospective of her career from the mid-1980s to the present day; and ‘Lugar Comun’ (‘ordinary place’) is a new series of images featuring the everyday objects Costi collects, as a kind of incessant personal archive of the mundane. At Luciana Brito Galeria (see listings).

25 September to 1 November.

Silveira and Mônica Nador, as well as emerging artists like Pablo Lobato. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 842, Vila Olímpia (3842 0634/lucianabritogaleria.com.br).

Open 10am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Marília Razuk Based in a highly discreet Itaim location, Marília Razuk has been showing Brazilian and international artists of great stature since 1992. An impressive roster includes the neo-concretist maestro Amilcar de Castro.

Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 131, Itaim Bibi (3079 0853/galeriamariliarazuk.com.br) Open 10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am3pm Sat. Galeria Oscar Cruz Oscar Cruz has been dealing in contemporary art in São Paulo for more than 15 years, and takes part in the major international art fairs. The large gallery space, split over two floors, focuses on the work of contemporary Brazilian artists, covering a broad range of media from painting and photography to installation and sculpture.

Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 526, Itaim Bibi (3167 0833/galeriaoscarcruz.com.br).

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Jardins AM Galeria Horizonte After seven years located in Vila Nova Conceição, this gallery moved to a larger space in Jardins in 2011. The curator, Angela Martins, represents a roster of artists both in São

Paulo and at AM Galeria’s other branch in Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais. Rua Estados Unidos 273, Jardim Paulista (3044 1057/galeriahorizonte. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. No credit cards.

Arte Aplicada Galeria Brazilian contemporary artists using techniques including painting, drawing, sculpture and photography, are represented at this glass-fronted two-storey gallery. Rua Haddock Lobo 1406, Jardim Paulista (3064 4725/arteaplicada.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Canvas-SP Galeria After four years operating as a high-end art auction house, Canvas SP has opened a gallery in the same space. They’re keeping the auction and gallery arms of the business separate, although works by various well-known international artists appear in both. Look out for a sign that reads ‘Galeria de Arte’ on an all-glass facade on which the word ‘e-art’ is repeated in blue, as aside from these clues, the address is unmarked. Rua Joaquim Antunes 187, Jardim Paulistano (3061 5715/canvasspgaleria.com.br). Open 10am-7pm MonFri; noon-4pm Sat. Cartel011 This long, thin, two-floor building in Pinheiros is a multi-purpose space that contains a stylish shop as well as a salon, a restaurant out back (Feed Food), and the gallery space. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (3081 4171/ cartel011.com.br). Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat.

Art & Museums

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

Rochelle Costi/PRESS IMAGE

Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. The new building features a striking facade made of exposed bricks placed sideways-on to create a surface with hundreds of perforations. Inside, a classic white-cube exhibition space leads up to a large office the gallery plans to share with other creatives, as a kind of hub. And right on top, a terrace, looking out over the treetops of leafy Jardins.

Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/emmathomas.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s.

With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as mid-career artists such as Alexandre da Cunha. Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/ galerialuisastrina.com.br). Open 10am7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Mendes Wood Injecting a dash of youthful zest and daring into the city’s art scene, Mendes Wood is owned by galleristas Pedro Mendes, Felipe Dmab and Matthew Wood, the latter from the USA. This is a cutting-edge gallery whose artists now include Brazil’s foremost conceptual artist, Tunga, as well as a roster of bright young things. Rua da Consolação 3358, Jardim Paulista (3081 1735/ mendeswood.com). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Nara Roesler With her son Alexandre running online gallery Galeria Motor (galeriamotor.com.br), and herself a busy and experienced player, Nara Roesler is an influential name in São Paulo art. Japanese ‘old school contemporary’ painter Tomie Ohtake, founder of the institute that bears her name (see Major institutions), is just one of her artists, as are fashionable young painters like Rodolpho Parigi.

Avenida Europa 655, Jardim Europa (3063 2344/nararoesler.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards..

Zipper Galeria The emphasis at this gallery, owned by the experienced galerista Fabio Cimino, is on the new and the pop. We love the now-iconic, voyeuristic photos of unknowing city balcony sunbathers by fashion/art photographer Felipe Morozini, and the strangely resonant portraits by the young painter Rodrigo Cunha; but with excellent curation and two spaces, upstairs and down, there’s always something on that’s worth seeing here. Rua Estados Unidos 1494, Jardim Paulista (4306 4306/ zippergaleria.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Perdizes & Pompéia Gravura Brasileira Opened in 1998

by Alberto Fuks and Eduardo Besen to showcase classic and contemporary print art, Gravura Brasileira has since staged more than 100 exhibitions from

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its Perdizes headquarters. This is one of precious few print-only galleries in Brazil, and its exhibitions are both reliably interesting and of consistently high artistic quality. Rua Dr Franco da Rocha 61, Perdizes (3624 0301/ gravurabrasileira.com). Open 11am6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat.

Retrospective 30 x Bienal

Amoa Konoya Arte Indígena Walter Gomes da Silva’s relationship with Brazil’s numerous indigenous tribes goes back to 1984, when members of the União da Nações Indígenas (Union of Indigenous Nations) asked him to market their handiwork. So he knows what he’s talking about. Today, the arts and crafts gallery he runs with Silvana Costa sells work from 60 indigenous settlements, from geometricallypatterned ceramics to arrowheads. Rua João Moura 1002, Pinheiros (3061 0639/amoakonoya.com. br). Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Galeria Logo In a versatile white space with a basement area that means two shows can run concurrently, Galeria Logo is a favourite with the skate/ graffiti/meeja crowd, and got off to a flying start when it opened in 2011 with a series of ambitious, large-scale shows.

We particularly like Walter Nomura’s complex, colourful, messy paintings and Flávio Samelo’s striking photographs.

Rua Artur de Azevedo 401, Pinheiros (3062 2381/galerialogo.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. Galeria Moura Marsiaj The veteran gallery owners, Laura Marsiaj of Rio de Janeiro and Mariana Moura of Recife, have joined forces to set up shop in São Paulo at Moura Marsiaj in Pinheiros.

Your visit might coincide with a show by any one of the thirty-odd up-andcoming artists Laura and Mariana collectively represent. It’s possible to request a viewing of the backroom permanent collection, and best to call ahead for visits between December and February – activity slows down here significantly during the holidays. Rua Mateus Grou 618, Pinheiros (3031 1061/mouramarsiaj.com.br). Open 10.30am-7pm Tue-Fri; noon-6pm Sat. Paralelo Gallery Don’t let the minimalist ground floor space fool you.

The stairs lead to a arsenal of artworks, packed floor-to-ceiling with works from almost all fourteen artists on Paralelo’s roster. The gallery, open since 2010, invests in promising new artists like Spain’s Jesús Herrera, as well as seasoned practitioners like the British photographer Jamie Stewart-Granger, who lives in Bahia and whose sensitive photos of the area are simply exquisite.

Rua Artur de Azevedo 986, Pinheiros (2495 6876/paralelogallery.com). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. Smith Galeria Smith aims to resist the exclusive bent of swankier galleries and make itself a haven for art mavens and curious dabblers alike. High ceilings and a spacious back yard make it ideal for installations and larger works.

New exhibitions open five-weekly, but whatever the show of the moment, Smith dedicates its entire space to it – that’s three storeys of arty goodness.

Rua João Moura 417/419, Pinheiros (3259 7513/smithgaleria.com.br). Open 1-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat.

PRESS IMAGE

Art & Museums

Pinheiros

Looking back over the thirty São Paulo Art Bienals that have been held since the first, in 1951, this retrospective boasts archival images and documents, as well as some of the artworks shown by more than 100 of the Brazilian artists featured in the Bienal over the years. This is an chance to dip into the cream of Brazilian art from Maria Martins to Tatiana Blass, and to trace out the symbiosis between the Bienal and Brazilian art over the years. ‘30 x Bienal - Transformações na arte brasileira da 1ª à 30ª edição’ is at Pavilhão da Bienal, Parque do Ibirapuera, Portão 3 (5576 7600/bienal.org. br) from 21 September to 8 December.

Galeria Virgílio The airy exhibition spaces and pleasant cafe of Galeria Virgílio are a hangout for the Pinheiros art crowd, and the place is unashamedly intellectual. So don’t be surprised to find a social-media journalism course or a jazz show by multi-instrumentalist Renato Anesi happening alongside exhibitions by home-grown artists like Diego Belda, who is also the chef and owner of Rothko restaurant. Rua Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto 426, Pinheiros (2373 2999/galeriavirgilio.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Santa Cecília Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has also developed good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Her gallery occupies a large, airy, industrial space in the rising art district of Barra Funda, where it has the floor space for large installations. Rua Barra Funda 216, Barra Funda (3666 6489/barogaleria. com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro.

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena

to discover some of the talent emerging from São Paulo’s art schools, the gallery represents a varied line of young artists. Look out for the compelling self-portraits by Nino Cais – one of the hits at the 2012 São Paulo Bienal. Rua Mourato Coelho 751, Vila Madalena (2645 4480/centralgaleriadearte.com).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Fortes Vilaça Even an art ignoramus will feel the quality at this gallery, one of the most established Brazilian names on the international circuit. They’ve got some big names on the roster: São Paulo graffiti stars OsGemeos (though graffiti doesn’t accurately describe their magical-realist paintings), the world-renowned installation artist Ernesto Neto, and Beatriz Milhazes and her beautiful, colourful paintings.

If there’s something on in particular, the Galpão (warehouse) is well worth a visit, too – but the area isn’t great, so it’s probably best to take a taxi there. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena (3032 7066/fortesvilaca.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards. Other location Galpão Fortes Vilaça (warehouse), Rua James Holland 71, Barra Funda (3392 3942).

Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri.; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards..

Galeria Millan The charming André Millan is a mainstay of the Brazilian contemporary art market, and represents, amongst others, the artists Tatiana Blass, Artur Barrio and Ana Maria Maiolino. Millan also shows photographers like Bob Wolfenson, and Miguel Rio Branco, one of the godfathers of contemporary Brazilian photography.

Rua Fradique Coutinho 1360, Vila Madalena (3031 6007/galeriamillan. com.br).Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Raquel Arnaud Contemporary art curator Raquel Arnaud specialised in geometric abstraction at her São Paulo gallery Gabinete de Arte since 1980, showcasing talent such as Lygia Clark.

In March 2011, she moved to this new, larger gallery, split over three storeys, in which the lower ground floor is a permanent archive for her important collection of works by the Constructivist artist Sergio Camargo. Rua Fidalga 125, Vila Madalena (3083 6322/raquelarnaud. com). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon4pm Sat. No credit cards.

Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. It has played a significant role in promoting the city’s street art, and if you find livewire curator/co-owner Baixo Ribeiro on the premises and up for a chat, you’ll come out wiser on this and many other art-related subjects. Rua Medeiros de Vila Mariana Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 White Cube São Paulo It’s one 2365/choquecultural.com.br). Open of the first major international 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat. galleries to arrive in São DOC Galeria This dynamic Paulo – but we’re wagering little gallery upstairs from it won’t be the last. Opened Posto 6 bar (see Bar listings) in December 2012, London’s specialises in photography, White Cube gallery kicked running the Mostra, Vila y Fina d a L off with a solo show by one Madalena’s annual photo Cafés e e S of its Brit Art stars, Tracey festival, as well as a series of Emin. It also represents workshops and events. Highly Antony Gormley, love-him-orrecommended. Rua Aspicuelta 662, hate-him art bad boy Damien Hirst, and Vila Madalena (3938 0130/docgaleria. a huge list of major international talent, com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; some of whom are already jockeying for 11am-2pm Sat.. a show in SP. As well as bringing artists Central Galeria One of the newer from its current roster to show in SP, the players on São Paulo’s contemporary gallery will be showing Brazilian artists at art scene, this gallery opened its doors its new London space in Bermondsey, and on the ground floor of a residential possibly even in its Hong Kong branch. building on bustling Avenida Rebouças Rua Agostinho Rodrigues Filho 550, Vila at the end of 2010, moving on in 2012 to Mariana (whitecube.com). Open 11amteam up with Galeria Ímpar in a larger 7pm Tue-Sat. space in Vila Madalena. With a mission

IN THE AREA

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Museums & cultural centres

Tue-Sun. Admission R$5.50; free reductions. Free to all Sun. Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum is an imposing red concrete-and-glass box suspended on four concrete columns, which dominates Avenida Paulista.

Inside, it’s the Greatest Hits of World Art, Vols. 1-10. Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/masp.art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm Thu; 10am-6pm FriSun (ticket office open until half an hour before closing). Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free to all Tue. Museu de Arte Sacra Frei Galvão, the first Brazilian to be canonised (in 2007), founded this monastery in 1774. The museum houses a fantastic collection of over 4,000 pieces of art, of which about 800 are on display. Avenida Tiradentes 676 (3326 1373/.museuartesacra.org. br). Open 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; free reductions. Free to all Sat. No credit cards..

Museu do Futebol The fascinating museum uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football.

A large collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events for young supporters into learning the facts behind their favourite sport. Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/ museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu. Museu Histórico da Imigração Japonesa no Brasil This museum houses photos, documents and archives that span the 100-year history of Japanese immigration to Brazil. Rua São Joaquim 381, Liberdade (3208 1755/bunkyo.org.br). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 1.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5; reductions free-$2.50.

Museu Paulista da USP (Museu do Ipiranga) Up on a hill overlooking Parque da Independência, the Museu do Ipiranga is set inside a gorgeous Renaissance-style building dating from 1895. Inside, it traces the history of Brazil, from the early settlers to the 1950s. The museum and the gardens offer great views of the city. Parque da Independência, Ipiranga (2065 8000/ mp.usp.br). Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$3 reductions; free under-6s, over-60s, first Sun of the month. Includes admission to the nearby (and disappointing), Museu de Zoologia.

Pivô Set in the heart of one of SP’s most iconic buildings – Oscar Niemeyer’s Copan – this sprawling space opened during the Bienal in 2012. A mission to interact with some of SP’s other galleries and institutions has so far resulted in shows at Pivô by the hip young galleries Emma Thomas and Mendes Wood. If there’s something on at Pivô, don’t miss the chance to get inside this amazing building. Avenida Ipiranga 200, loja 48, Centro (3255 8703/pivo.org.br). Metrô 1, República. Open noon-6pm Tue-Sat.

Art & Museums

Catavento Cultural Located in the beautiful Palácio das Industrias, Catavento is a cultural and educational museum. Well laid out, its mission is to provide children with fun and interactive ways to learn, covering topics including space, the human body and Brazilian geography and wildlife. No tickets sold after 4pm. Palácio das Indústrias, Praça Cívica Ulisses Guimarães, Parque Dom Pedro II, Centro (cataventocultural. org.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; free-R$3 reductions.

Centro Cultural São Paulo São Paulo’s aerodynamic-looking Cultural Centre is quite an impressive and clever architectural feat. Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the vast, multi-level space. A spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden where you can sit and enjoy views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural. sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE Espaço Cultural BM&F BOVESPA Combine a visit to one of the temporary exhibitions at the Espaço Cultural, housed inside the entrance hall to São Paulo’s stock exchange, with a guided tour of the financial institution – ask at the reception desk. Praça Antonio Prado 48, Centro (2565 6826). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm. FREE Matilha Cultural A socially-minded cultural space in the Centro, Matilha Cultural organises events, courses, film screenings and art exhibitions, which are generally free. Rua Rego Freitas 542, (3256 2636/matilhacultural.com.br).

Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; noon-10pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC) The MAC contains over 10,000 works by the likes of Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Tarsila do Amaral, Portinari and Di Cavalcanti on its three sites, the newest of which is located in a huge Niemeyer building across the road from Parque do Ibirapuera. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral 1301, Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac.usp.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Other locations Pavilhão Ciccillo Matarazzo, 3rd floor, Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac.usp.br).

Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Cidade Universitária, Rua da Praça do Relógio 160 (3091 3039/mac.usp.br). Open 10am-4pm Sat, Sun, public holidays.

Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) Founded in 1948 and based on New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), the MAM contains over 5,000 works by acclaimed Brazilian artists of the likes of Regina Silveira, Cildo Meireles and Leonilson. Its mission is to showcase contemporary and modern Brazilian art, and it also has a 6,000-square-metre sculpture garden. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5085 1300/mam.org.br). Open 10am-6pm

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Shopping & Style Shopping malls

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Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, one of Avenida Paulista’s most famous landmarks. This David Libeskind project from 1958 is innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops. The complex is home to the bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura. Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (3179 0000/ccn.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat, Sun & holidays.

Eldorado This mall’s previous incarnation was as a branch of a 1980s department store, and those powershoulder-pad days still haunt the place, at least in terms of the interior design.

Eldorado’s two basement levels cater to every need, from dog grooming to cellphone repairs. Avenida Rebouças 3970, Jardim Paulistano (2197 7800/ shoppingeldorado.com.br). Open 10am10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary.

Frei Caneca Located close to Avenida Paulista, this mall is at the heart of São Paulo and is famous not only for marketing culture, but also for generating it – amongst its numerous shops, nine cinemas and two theatres, it also hosts events and conferences, and has a professional drama school. Its cinema is known for being eclectic, with national and international movies on the menu.

Rua Frei Caneca 569, Consolação (3472 2000/freicanecashopping.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-10pm MonSat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary.

Galeria Ouro Fino São Paulo’s wealthier alternative crowd heads to this gallery.

There are tattoo studios, lingerie shops and hairdressers; and above all, there are smallscale designer shops selling creative or unusual outfits. Rua Augusta 2690, Jardim Paulista (3082 7860/galeriaourofino.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am8pm Mon-Sat. JK Iguatemi With its slick, high-shine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary.

Morumbi Morumbi is a favourite with young executives in the area for its firstfloor gym (Companhia Athletica) as well as for its branch of the Fnac bookstore, which

New in town Orbi

Originally set up by two Brazilian expats in London, the design store Orbi is building on the success of its first Brazilian branch, in Belo Horizonte, to open a new São Paulo outpost. In London, the shop specialises in limitededition furniture by the crème de la crème of Brazilian designers; while in Brazil, neatly flipping the focus, it’s all about the exquisite furniture, lamps, rugs and artworks by a handful of international designers, including the British artist Rory Dobner. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 285, Jardim Paulistano (3083 5426/orbibrasil.com). hosts music shows, art events and book releases. Brazilian brands Animale and Mara Mac are also worth a look. Avenida Roque Petroni Jr 1089, Brooklin (4003 4132/morumbishopping.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Pátio Higienópolis Located on a leafy boulevard in this lovely upmarket

neighbourhood, this mall is popular for its branch of the buffet restaurant Bar des Arts, and brands like L’Occitane.

Avenida Higienópolis 618, Higienópolis (3823 2300/patiohigienopolis.com.br).

Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Markets CEAGESP If you’re interested in buying plants, flowers or fruits, try the state market CEAGESP (also known as Ceasa), located in the west of town close to Parque Villa-Lobos. The wholesale market feeds the entire city, but offers a number of retail sales as well, with prices that take some beating. Tuesdays and Fridays are plant and flower days.

For fruit, Wednesdays (at night) and weekends (in the morning) are the peak times. Avenida Dr Gastão Vidigal 1946, Vila Leopoldina (3643 3700/ceagesp.gov. br). Open 5am-10am Tue; 4-10pm Wed; 5-10am Fri; 7am-noon Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. No credit cards.

Feira de Antiguidades e Arte do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast everything from antique clocks and furniture, clothes and records to vintage watches, brooches and sunglasses. There’s also a number of excellent food stalls, selling a plethora of delicacies, including homemade Italian cuisine inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s nearby version of Little Italy. Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the many things to be found at this beautiful market underneath the hulking body of the MASP. Although the prices can be quite hefty, only one-of-akind articles are purveyed here. Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Feira de Artes, Cultura e Lazer da Praça Benedito Calixto Surrounded by gift and furniture shops, this Saturday market sells bric-à-brac as well as antique furniture – do stay on your guard, as many goods are copies – vinyl, clothes and jewellery. It’s busiest in the afternoons, when live music, chorinho, kicks in from 2.30 to 6.30pm, and a buzzing gay scene spills onto the pavements outside some of the square’s bars and cafés. Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto. com.br). Open 8am-7pm Sat. Feira da República Running continuously since 1956, this open-air centre has 600 stands and a wide selection of food. There is also a large open-air gallery where local artists sell paintings.

Praça da República, República. Metrô 3, República. Open 9am-5pm Sat, Sun. Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying an incredibly colourful array of fruit and vegetables. Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/mercadomunicipal.com. br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

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Film Festival atmosphere Two years after the death of its founder, the film critic Leon Cakoff – who managed to create it during Brazil’s censor-prone dictatorship – São Paulo’s annual Mostra film festival is always worth a look, showcasing an eclectic selection of movies, from winners and participants from other famed festivals to independent releases from off the beaten track.

This year’s show boasts a strong programme including works by directors such as Jean-Luc Godard and Peter Greenaway (3x3D), Hirokazu Koreeda (Like Father, Like Son), Bille August (Night Train to Lisbon) and Jafar Panahi (Pardé), as well as up-and-coming filmmakers like Marjane Satrapi (La Bande des Jotas), Anthony Chen, winner of this year’s Golden Camera at Cannes (Ilo Ilo), Diego Quemada-Diez (La Jaula de Oro) and Diederick Ebbinge (Matterhorn).

Not mere child’s play Kubrick’s adaptation of Vladmir Nabokov’s ‘Lolita’ features Sue Lyon as the underage lead

Curated by Hans-Peter Reichmann of the Deutsches Film Museum of Frankfurt, and with the collaboration of Christiane Kubrick, the filmmaker’s widow, the MIS show features costumes, props, documents and original photos from Kubrick’s films.

Coinciding with the museum exhibition, the publisher Cosac Naify also releases Conversations

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Stanley Kubrick The big honouree this year is none other than Stanley Kubrick, one of the most influential directors of all time. In addition to screenings of true modern classics such as Dr. Strangelove, 2001: A Space Odyssey, A Clockwork Orange, Lolita and The Shining, an exhibition at MIS will illustrate his impressive career.

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The 37th SP Film Festival – the ‘Mostra’ – features a homage to Kubrick.

Rafael Argemon reports

Tech unfriendly Man vs. machine in Kubrick’s ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’

with Kubrick, in which the French critic Michel Ciment reviews the director’s work, combining analysis with interviews and texts from the American filmmaker.

The book also includes a preface from another preeminent director, Martin Scorsese.

Other retrospectives and special screenings Another tribute is planned for the Filipino filmmaker Lav Diaz, known for addressing the current political and social issues in his country. Diaz has already garnered praise at other international festivals, having won the 2007 Golden Lion Special Mention at the Venice Film Festival for Death in the Land of Encantos, while his latest film, Norte, the End of History, was an official selection at this year’s edition of Cannes.

Among the special screenings at this year’s festival are a restored copy of Nathan der Weise (Nathan the Wise), a classic German silent film from 1922, directed by

Manfred Noa. The rarely seen film, which will be projected outdoors, at the Auditório of the Ibirapuera, went missing in 1930, until a copy was finally discovered in Moscow in 1996. Origially banned upon its release by the censorship committee of the pre-Nazi German government, Nathan der Weise will be accompanied by music specially written for the film by Lebanese composer Rabih Abou-Khalil, and performed by the Petrobras Symphony Orchestra, conducted by maestro Armando Prazeres.

Another highlight, on what would have been Yasujiro Ozu’s 110th birthday, are three films by the great master of Gendai-Geki – Japanese family dramas: Tokyo Monogatari (Tales of Tokyo, 1953), Higanbana (Equinox Flower,1958), and Sanma No Aji (Routine Has Its Charm, 1962), his final work.

37th São Paulo Film Festival is on 17-31 October. Opening time and locations: programme will be announced shortly.

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Reviews Elysium

Film

Something about this first US studio feature from the South African-born director of District 9 just doesn’t feel right. While Neill Blomkamp’s 2009 debut was a bracing blast of whipsmart sci-fi, the work of a committed writerdirector with talent and integrity to burn, Elysium feels like the product of a cautious Hollywood committee. It retains the actionmovie-with-a-social-conscience template of District 9, but ditches that film’s sense of dizzying, anything-goes vitality.

Matt Damon is sturdy – if a little faceless – as the futuristic blue-collar grunt whose life nosedives when he receives a fatal-in-five-days radioactive blast at work. His only hope is to get to Elysium, the orbiting paradise reserved exclusively for the rich and heartless, run by Jodie Foster’s clipped, frosty and unconvincingly French CEO. There are moments in Elysium that recapture the breath-stopping

intensity of Blomkamp’s debut, most of them involving South African actor Sharlto Copley as a mangled Afrikaans mercenary, the only character here with any spark (although it’s worth noting that the cast also includes Brazilian actors Alice Braga and Wagner Moura, made famous by the role of Captain Nascimento in the two Tropa de Elite films). The special effects are uniformly superb, and a handful of action sequences – including a magnificent mid-film Smart-car heist – justify the price of admission.

But this is a messy, poorly structured film, riddled with plot holes and lacking any kind of satisfying conclusion. Perhaps it’s another case of raised expectations: from a first-timer, Elysium might seem more exciting.

But in the wake of District 9, we’re all too aware what this risk-taking filmmaker is capable of, and it’s far more than this conceptually bold, sporadically engaging but ultimately bland blockbuster. Tom Huddleston Elysium (Elysium) is released on 20 September.

Stephanie Blomkamp/press image

Dir. Neill Blomkamp, USA, 2013.

Matt Damon, Sharlto Copley, Jodie Foster, Alice Braga. 109 mins.

Where’s your head at Wagner Moura and Matt Damon in ‘Elysium’

This Is the End ‘There’s a party at Franco’s...’ If these words, uttered a few minutes into Superbad writers Seth Rogen and Evan Goldberg’s directorial

debut, make you feel apprehensive, you’re not alone. Is this going to be one of those ‘look at me’ comedies, intended to provoke

Suzanne Hanover/press image

Dirs. Evan Goldberg and Seth Rogen, USA, 2013. James Franco, Jonah Hill, Seth Rogen. 107 mins.

The party’s over Co-director Seth Rogan (left) and his Tinseltown pals play themselves in this apocalyptic comedy

love, awe and sympathy for LA’s wayward movie brats? Then Michael Cera gets a lamppost through the ribcage, and things begin to look up ...

This Is the End stars Rogen and a litany of major and minor comic talents as themselves, each of them stuck in James Franco’s arty, concrete mansion as the Book of Revelations comes horribly true outside. Yes, it’s indulgent and scrappy, demanding a high level of familiarity with the leading players and an equally high tolerance for weed smoking and masturbation gags. But it can be truly funny (Cera’s cokesnorting, ass-grabbing wildman is a highlight) and there’s room for a few sharp sideswipes at infantile masculinity and Hollywood hipsterism. No comedy classic, then, but a good natured and engaging slice of goonish selfmockery. Tom Huddleston This Is the End (É o fim) is released on 27 September.

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Foxfire: Confessions of a Girl Gang The French director Laurent Cantet follows his 2008 Palme d’Or winner The Class with this Englishlanguage adaptation of Joyce Carol Oates’s early 1990s novel, Foxfire:

Confessions of a Girl Gang. Set in the 1950s, it’s the story of alienated teenage girls in smalltown upstate New York, who react to misogyny (and abuse) by ganging together

imovision/press image

Dir. Laurent Cantet, France and Canada, 2012. Raven Adamson, Katie Conseni, Madeleine Bisson.

143 mins.

A gang of their own A happy moment between wreckage and beatings in ‘Foxfire: Confessions of a Girl Gang’

and committing random acts of vandalism and violence.

The beauty of The Class was the electric sense of a tight ensemble that Cantet achieved with a group of real-life Parisian schoolkids. He aims for the same here by casting a group of non-professionals to play the gang members, but the effect is less successful. Some of the performances are awkward – even if Raven Adamson has real charisma as leader Legs – and, compared to The Class, the storytelling doesn’t feel as taut and purposeful. Where Cantet does succeed is in offering a sense of time and place, and persuading us that these girls’ actions and attitudes are understandable, even justified, in a world where men treat them as stupid or sex toys. In lesser hands, the same story could feel like a misguided, girl-power exploitation flick. Dave Calhoun.

Foxfire: Confessions of a Girl Gang (Foxfire: Confissões de uma gangue de garotas) is released on 20 September.

Film

R.I.P.D.

Even with the goodwill a playful Jeff Bridges performance can supply (he riffs on his ornery True Grit character as another Wild West lawman out of joint), the deadening elements of this instantly forgettable action comedy pile up like unburied corpses.

First comes handsome stiff Ryan Reynolds, the blandest of Hollywood leading men, who once again can’t animate an expensive production swirling around him.

Given a backstory of a shady Boston cop worried about letting down his doting wife, Reynolds takes too quickly to the movie’s zany purgatorial afterlife; his partner in crime (Kevin Bacon) shoots him in the face and suddenly there’s a new job waiting as a ghostly flatfoot rounding up ‘deados’. (Count up at least four more pesky bodies: the credited writers behind a clichéd script that belongs on top of Will Smith’s reject pile, itself a scant stack given the evidence of After Earth.)

Tired byplay between Reynolds’s mystified straight man and Bridges’s supernatural old pro will kill off any fond memories you

have of zesty buddy films past and present. Unique wrinkles – a subplot involving Indian food, mainly – are scarce. But who’s the cadaver really stinking up the joint? It has to be that of hack director Robert Schwentke, whose featureless competency with Ghostbusters-styled chases and

weightless PG-13 mayhem comes to feel like a choking vice of blahness.

It’s really something when much of Beantown comes crashing down in a hail of digitally rendered comic wreckage, yet you feel nothing.

R.I.P.D. only has significance in today’s conversation about our summer of unfortunate wanna-be

blockbusters (White House Down, The Lone Ranger, etc.). All bow too slavishly to the stale popcorn of yore; how about starting with a killer script instead? Joshua Rothkopf R.I.P.D (Agentes do Além) is released on 27 September.

Universal Pictures/press image

Dir. Robert Schwentke, USA, 2013.

Ryan Reynolds, Kevin Bacon, Jeff Bridges. 96 mins.

Shooting blanks With a weak plot, hackneyed dialogue and dull action sequences, ‘R.I.P.D.’ fails on every level

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How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues.

Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

Film

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Built in 1901 and restored in 1927 as the first Banco do Brasil in São Paulo, this imposing former bank in the middle of the old city is now a cultural centre, with a café, art exhibitions, theatre and educational programmes.

The CCBB cinema programme often includes engrossing retrospectives of internationally renowned directors. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/bb.com.br/cultura). Metrô 1 or 3, Sé or São Bento. 1 screen, 70 seats.

Tickets R$4; R$2 reductions.

Consolação & Higienópolis Espaço Itaú de Cinema Augusta This cinema, which until recently was known as Espaço Unibanco, is divided into two spaces on either side of Rua Augusta. If you arrive before the movie showtime, visit the small bookstore, which holds many cultural works and has a good café. Rua Augusta 1470 and 1475, Consolação (3288 6780/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 5 screens, 51-263 seats.

Tickets R$14-$22; R$7-$11 reductions; R$10-$20.

Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca This welcoming cinema screens mainstream movies and arthouse titles.

Rua Frei Caneca 569, 3rd floor, Frei Caneca Shopping, Consolação (3472 2365/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 9 screens, 103-268 seats.

Tickets R$16-$22; 3D film tickets R$26-$28.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations, with some screens available for 3D films.

Priority is given to blockbusters though cult films are sometimes shown on the smaller screens. Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa (3024 3851/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18-$24; R$9$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28.

Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger

reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37; R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues.

It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE CINUSP Paulo Emílio A small cinema at the heart of the enormous University of São Paulo campus, CINUSP shows free films. Rua do Anfiteatro 181, Colméia Favo 4, Cidade Universitária, Butantã (3091 3540/usp.br/cinusp). 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

Jardins Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. It also also has the advantage of location – next door to the excellent bookshop Livraria Cultura, on the ground floor of

the Conjunto Nacional building, on the bustling corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats.

Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions.

Cinemark Iguatemi With the classic Cinemark layout including comfortable armchairs and good quality image and sound projection, this cinema, on the top floor of Shopping Iguatemi, has standard and 3D sceenings of mostly mainstream films. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Iguatemi Shopping, Jardim Paulistano (3815 8713/cinemark.com. br). 6 screens, 129-266 seats. Tickets R$6-$28; R$3-$14 reductions; 3D films R$28-$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Cinépolis JK Opened in 2012 in the swish JK Iguatemi shopping mall, this cinema is all about luxury – of its eight screening rooms, six are VIP. The other two aren’t too shabby, either: one uses Imax technology and the other, with 4D capacity, can use up to 20 special effects to enhance the viewing experience. It doesn’t come cheap though ­– tickets are are much as R$68. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, 4th floor, Vila Olímpia (3152 6605/jk.cinepolis.com.br). 8 screens, 67-382 seats. Tickets R$34-$68; R$17-$34 reductions.

Kinoplex Vila Olímpia Considered one of the best in town, this cinema, inside Shopping Vila Olímpia, screens mainstream movies and is spotlessly clean, with comfortable screening rooms

and friendly staff. Rua Olimpíadas 360, Vila Olímpia (3131 2006/kinoplex.com. br). 7 screens, 98-189 seats. Tickets R$22-$53; R$11-$26.50 reductions.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Centro Cultural São Paulo – Sala Lima Barreto This intimate cinema is part of a large, layered, steel and concrete building that also houses theatre, music and dance programmes, and art exhibitions. Established in 1982, the Centro Cultural was one of the city’s first multidisciplinary cultural centres, and its library, the second largest in the city, has excellent art and Braille sections.

The cinema has a second screen with an additional 100 seats as of January 2013.

Screenings are at a token cost (R$1).

Rua Vergueiro 1000, Paraíso (3397 4054/centrocultural.sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cinemark Cidade Jardim Has gigantic screens, digital sound and projection, and love seats. Also includes two screens in the Cinemark Premier style, reclineable leather armchairs with foot rests, a lounge area, wine list, and special popcorn seasoned with flavoured oils – all with a high price tag. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Cidade Jardim (3552 1800/cinemark.com.br).

7 screens, 72-274 seats. Tickets R$22$53; R$11-$26,50 reductions; 3D films R$28-$57; R$14-$.28,50 reductions.

Hot topics Setembro Verde The social- and politicallyminded festival focuses on the issues affecting Brazil’s native population, says Cecília Gianesi Keeping with Matilha Cultural’s philosophy of inviting debate on controversial subjects, this year’s Setembro Verde (Green September) festival is no different.

Entitled ‘Resistência Indígena’ (Indigenous Resistance), the thematic collection of workshops, exhibitions, lectures and films examines the struggle of the Brazilian Indians.

This, the fifth edition of the multimedia event, features a screening of the 2012 film Belo Monte: Anúncio de uma Guerra (28 September, 8pm) – a Brazilian documentary about the conflict surrounding the planned construction of a hydroelectric plant on Amazônia’s Xingu river, and the plight of the local tribes who have declared war against a government they believe threatens

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Main cinemas

Hot dam A still from the film ‘Belo Monte: Anúncio de uma guerra’ their way of life. (The film can also be watched in its entirety online at belomonteofilme.org.)

Another highlight of the film schedule, Muito Além do Peso (22 and 24 September, 8pm; 25 September, 3pm), a documentary from 2012, explores the factors responsible for Brazil’s childhood

obesity problem, which affects 33 per cent of the nation’s youth.

Setembro Verde runs from 17 September to 31 October at Matilha Cultural, Rua Rêgo Freitas 542, República (3256 2636). See the full programme at matilhacultural.com.br. FREE

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Gay & Lesbian Listings

Book it SPTuris LGBT guide

How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

Bars

A Lôca If the image of Alice in Wonderland’s Queen of Hearts as the club’s logo doesn’t say it all, then the names of the parties – Tapa na Pantera (Brazilian slang for getting high) and Loucuras – Portuguese for madness – say the rest. Things can get crazy in this cavernous space where techno and pop music keeps the frisky twinks and trannies dancing. Rua Frei Caneca 916, Consolação (3159 8889/aloca. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open midnight-7am Thu-Sat; 8pm-6am Sun. Admission R$25.

Blue Space The tea dance at this spot culminates with the funniest drag shows in town – and some of the hottest go-go boys. Most of the stage productions, which have inspired a cult following on YouTube, are so elaborate they could teach Cher a thing or two about costume changes. The crowd is mixed: postadolescents share space with muscle marys. Rua Brigadeiro Galvão 723, Barra Funda (3666 1616/bluespace.com. br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. Admission R$20-$28.

Bubu Lounge On Fridays, this club can get crowded and it can get hot, in every way imaginable. Get there early to avoid the queue, but once inside, be ready for some action, with hip beats in the entrance lounge, house and electronic on the dancefloor, and shake-your-booty songs upstairs. Bubu Lounge, Rua dos Pinheiros 791, Pinheiros (3081 9659/bubulounge. com.br). Open 11.30pm-late Wed-Sat: 7pm-late Sun. Admission R$10-$60.

Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party

JOSÉ CORDEIRO/SPTURIS

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Clubs

the place is full of stairs. Rua dos Ingleses 355, Bela Vista (3285 0246/tunnel. com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$20.

With São Paulo hosting one of the largest yearly Pride parades, it’s only fitting that the city finally recognised LGBT tourism by producing its first specifically gay city guide.

The SPTuris publication contains fairly generic highlights like museums, restaurants and clubs, but it also includes a helpful week-long itinerary. Available at cidadedesaopaulo.com/download. when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings.

The area is a little sketchy, but there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35.

Danger Head downtown and prepare yourself for a hardcore experience. There’s a live, 20-minute sex show at 2am in which three couples of varying sexuality do the do. They switch places on stage, giving everyone an excellent view. The crowd is a tad rough’n’tumble, but if you go to the dark room or have a couple of extra sips, you may not even notice. Rua Rego Freitas 470, Centro (3211 0371/dangerdanceclub. blogspot.com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-6am. Admission R$18.

Flex In the war for the hottest shirtless boys in town, Flex is fighting with the big guns: a huge dancefloor, a booming sound system, go-go dancers to spice it all up and an open-air space for dancing and chilling out. Despite all its efforts, however, the club hasn’t managed to lure all the pretty boys

away from The Week. Still, the crowd is young and fun. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767, Barra Funda (3612 4402/ flexclub.com.br) Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$25-$45.

The L Club In this girls’ club, you get all sorts: from Ellen DeGeneres and Portia de Rossi types to everything in between. Rua Luís Murat 370, Vila Madalena (2604 3393/thelclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am Fridays only. Admission R$15-$20.

The Week This party is what every other club (gay or straight) is trying to copy. It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors.

Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/ theweek.com.br). Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$60-$80.

Tunnel With exuberant music in the main room and vintage pop on the lower level, this party is full of young boys new to the gay scene. It gets a bit crowded, but there’s always the restaurant upstairs for a break and a snack. Don’t get too drunk, though:

‘Bar da Lôca’ The always-crowded ‘bar on the corner’ is actually the neighbourhood bakery-cum-watering hole officially named Bar Tom Zé. Its proximity to nearby club A Lôca turned it into the club’s unofficial waiting room. The crowd is mixed, sheltering twinks, bears and closet cases. It’s often standing-room only. Rua Frei Caneca 106, Consolação (3256 1946). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Vermont República This traditional boteco is a long-time gay institution. At night, it’s mostly the laydeez soaking up the pheromone-charged atmosphere.

Pop ditties spew from the speakers until a live band covers cheesy, emotive hits from MPB muses like Ana Carolina and Simone. Avenida Doutor Vieira de Carvalho 10, República (3222 5848/ vermontrepublica.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 6am-1am Mon-Thu; 6am-2am Fri-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$12; cover R$3-$4.

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This

lively café-cum-bar with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/freycafe.com. br). Open 4pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15.

RESTAURANT Bella Paulista Casa de Pães Brightly lit and always crowded, this bakery-cum-restaurant is a gay institution. From early evening to the wee hours of the morning, party-goers and TV stars hob-nob and flirt over tasty sandwiches, pastas and pastries.

The service, however, can be patchy.

Rua Haddock Lobo 354, Consolação (3214 3347/bellapaulista.com). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 24 hours daily.

SAUNA Splash 720 Splash 720 is a venue solely for the gay crowd, and a handy option for people leaving The Week, but who want to keep the party going. Splash features a heated swimming pool and about 40 private rooms (singles and doubles). You need to book either a room or a locker to get in.

Rua Guaicurus 720, Lapa (4329 0204/ splash720.com.br). Open 24 hours daily Prices Locker rental R$30; single room R$75; double room R$146.

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Music & Nightlife

press image

Have fun – will travel

Musical chairs Although the lineup has changed over the years, Gogol Bordello has stuck close to its punk-meets-Eastern-European-folk-music aesthetic

The International Gypsy punks Gogol Bordello return to SP with tracks from their new party playlist, says CM Gorey

grandiose – the perfect grubby, vodka-drenched party soundtrack – the band’s sound remains instantly recognisable even when it veers into other genres like dub and assorted flavours of world music.

With a continually evolving

Since forming in New York City in 1999, Gogol Bordello’s increasing success has crowned the band as the foremost promoters of the ‘Gypsy punk’ sound: think insistent, stomp-along beats, poignantly harmonic minor-tinged vocals, and stringy rock riffs giving way to shuffling, rhythmic acoustic guitars.

And it’s all punctuated by enough accordions, horns and strings to maintain the intense, underlying presence of traditional Gypsy and Eastern-European music for which the band is best known. Furiously

The latest record doesn’t break any ground, but rather, effectively continues in the band’s own unusual tradition line-up that currently features members from Russia, China, Belarus, Ethiopia, Ecuador, the USA and Brazil, the band arrives in São Paulo after three other national dates (including a Rock in Rio gig) in support of Pura Vida Conspiracy, the follow-up to

2010’s Trans-Continental Hustle.

The latest record doesn’t break any ground or provide much in the way of unexpected deviations, but rather, effectively continues in the band’s own unusual tradition; the song ‘Malandrino’ shines with its

absorbing Mexican brass touches; the chugging garage guitar of ‘Lost Innocent World’ jumps up with a monumental chorus fleshed out with feverish melodic string lines; while the mellow café feel of ‘I Just Realized’ provides a soothing respite from the record’s otherwise

buoyant madness.

When singing in English – which is the majority of the time, though the lyrics are peppered with Ukrainian and Spanish, among other languages – thick-accented frontman Eugene Hütz still comes across as if he’s putting on an act as a direct-article-challenged Sovietera stereotype. But that detail actually works in the band’s favour, lending an extra bit of authenticity to a group comprised of persistently touring citizens of the world, who require no further proof of their hard-line commitment to a blissfully good time.

Gogol Bordello plays at HSBC Brasil, Rua Bragança Paulista 1281, Santo Amaro (5646 2120/ hsbcbrasil.com.br) at 9pm on 25 September. Tickets R$50-$280.

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Live previews The Bahian singer pays tribute to a beloved MPB and glam rock album, says Rafael Argemon It’s hard to believe that 40 years have passed since the release of one of the most important albums in the history of popular Brazilian music: Secos e Molhados’s self-titled debut.

The revolutionary album came out at the height of the repressive military dictatorship (1964-1985), and although its lyrics contained serious social criticism, it sold over a million copies, thrusting the band’s androgynous vocalist, Ney Matogrosso, into the public eye.

Classic tracks like ‘Sangue Latino’, ‘O Vira’ and ‘Rosa de Hiroshima’ unleashed a potent blend of glam rock laced with references to Brazilian folklore that continues to influence Brazilian artists today.

Among them is the Bahian singer and songwriter Karina Buhr, who will be interpreting the songs from this seminal record for the 73 Rotações project, which invites contemporary Brazilian artists to

play famous albums from 1973.

‘It’s all so full of emotion that anyone who has ever heard this album, or has seen the band live or seen footage of them years later, continues to be influenced by Secos e Molhados in some way,’ Buhr tells us. But despite the fact that her own sound has a lot in common with the band formed by Matogrosso, João Ricardo and Gérson Conrad, Buhr points out that this isn’t the type of project she had always dreamed of doing.

‘This thing of interpreting other people’s songs – or a whole album – isn’t exactly something that makes me feel very comfortable. For a while I thought I might not accept SESC’s invitation, but then I thought the idea was so wonderful, because this record is really precious.

The idea is not to just repeat it or do some wildly surprising arrangement, but to sing, to play, to be on stage feeling these songs that have always moved me and still move me so much. It’s a real challenge I’ve set for myself.’

Buhr’s show is the first of the 73 Rotações performance series

Andrezza Fonseca/press image

Karina Buhr interprets Secos e Molhados

Under the influence Karina Buhr with Secos e Molhados’s debut record

programme which, also includes Cidadão Instigado playing Pink Floyd’s The Dark Side of The Moon (27 September); Céu doing Bob Marley’s Catch a Fire (28 September); and Fred 04 singing the tragic sambista Nelson Cavaquinho’s

eponymous album (29 September).

Karina Buhr plays at SESC Santana, Avenida Luiz Dumont Villares 579, Santana (2971 8700/sescsp.org.br) at 9pm on 26 September. Tickets R$12-R$24.

Music & Nightlife

Album review King Krule

Krule and unusual Archy Marshall, the highly original, teenaged King Krule

Archy Marshall, who goes by the name King Krule, has created a debut LP that is nothing short of phenomenal. Why? Well, let’s start with his south London roots. His finger-picked guitars echo Peckham scene-mates Filthy Boy on ‘Out Getting Ribs’, while ‘Will I Come’ and ‘Foreign 2’ show south-east London’s leaning towards plaintive post-dubstep. Yet the album as a whole still manages to sound unique, fresh and accessible to anyone from Forest Hill to Finchley – and beyond. Even when Marshall throws in complicated jazz riffs, they add depth to, rather than detracting from, his guitar hooks.

Lyrically, the graduate of the suburban London arts-based Brit School pines over dead-end jobs in the same way he does over failed relationships. ‘One day I can have you, but for now I don’t care,’ he wails

in his sombre baritone on ‘A Lizard State’. It’s shocking to think he’s been composing tracks like this for years – having penned album opener ‘Easy Easy’ when he was only 12. That was about the age that most of us bought our first ever singles (Britney’s ‘Baby One More Time’, since you ask).

Writing ballads about urban malaise isn’t your usual prepubescent pastime, but Marshall is different, and what he’s doing is truly special. He deserves your attention.

Give it to him. Danielle Goldstein

press image

Jamie-James Medina/press image

6 Feet Beneath the Moon (XL)

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Nightclubs Old guard Peter Hook How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots.

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Music & Nightlife

Eclectic

Indie & rock Stefano Masselli/PRESS IMAGE

Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wall-towall MPB. Stylishly decorated and with a haphazard, beatnik vibe, Alberta #3 might be small, but its three-floor split works well, with a busy dancefloor down in the basement. Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br).

Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm).

Bar Secreto More of a club than a bar, this candle-lit room is decked out with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and electronic. The exclusive club (you can’t call – contact is only via email) caters to fashionistas and hipsters. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm-5am Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$22; cover R$80.

Caos In a compact little space on Baixo Augusta, Caos crams in more of everything than most bars. More funloving customers, bumping elbows at the bar or packed tight on the dance floor.

More eclectic DJ sets. And more – well, tat, with walls and shelves brimming with film posters, telephones and door knobs – all for sale during the day, too.

Rua Augusta 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584.com.br). Open 7pm-2am Tue-Fri; 9pm-2am Sat; 7pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$20-$40.

Gloria This former church in Bela Vista normally functions as a gay club frequented by hipster types, but they also host hip hop nights drawing in a mixed crowd of university kids and B-boys from the ‘periphery’ – São Paulo’s grittier outer reaches. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/clubegloria. com.br). Open 11pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$9; caipirinha R$18; cover R$20-$50.

Hot Hot Big with the fashion crowd and rich kids, Hot Hot has a plush upstairs bar, while downstairs a dark dancefloor has one of the best soundsystems in the city, pumping out electronic beats from Brazilian and international DJs. Rua Santo Antônio 570, Bela Vista (2985 8685/hothotsite.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$30-$80.

Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has a slightly exclusive air, with high ceilings and decor inspired by 19th-century gentlemen’s clubs, right

blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50.

Clash Club The young, pretty crowd at this swish, ultra–modern club gets seriously animated to the latest electronic music. Rua Barra Funda 969, Barra Funda (3661 1500/clashclub.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. Open midnightlate Tues, Fri, Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; cover R$50-$60.

D–Edge D–Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace.

The crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours.

Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Open midnight7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; cover R$20-$80.

Disco This club is a favourite with the city’s young, beautiful and rich, although it’s quite small and often beyond crowded. The highlight of the space – a creation of the architect Isay Weinfeld – is the glittering mirrored corridor that takes you from the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

A welcome opportunity to catch peerless songs performed live if you missed them back in the day, or a cynical exercise by New Order’s estranged former bassist, Peter Hook? Whatever your take, the wearer of the lowest-slung bass ever will be delving into New Order’s back catalogue at this show, performing 1981’s Movement and 1983’s Power, Corruption & Lies in their entirety with backing band The Light. 10pm, 4 October at Cine Joia, Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé (cinejoia. tv/3231 3705). Tickets R$60-$160. down to the stuffed animal heads on the walls. But the real star of the show is the terrace, shared by smokers and non-smokers alike, from which you can gaze over at the Catedral da Sé.

Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com. br). Open midnight-6am Tue, Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$30-$120.

Love Story Love Story isn’t about the music – it’s about a decadent party that doesn’t get going until well after 2.30am, when party animals, off–duty hookers, tourists, clubbers and whoever else is still awake in the edgy downtown party zone lets loose until the early hours. A mix of house and dance music keeps the energy levels high until long after

sunrise. Rua Araújo 232, República (3231 3101/danceterialovestory.tur.br).

Metrô 3, República. Open midnight-late Mon-Sat. Prices cover R$60.

Electronica Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s houseturned-club, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. The action is out the back, where media types and rich kids flit up and down the steps between two tree-covered courtyards, each with its own bar and dancefloor. DJs spin everything from electro rock and ’80s disco to house. Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92.

Funhouse Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club.

Behind the curtain, you’ll find a little black box of a dancefloor where they might be blaring electro dance music, pop anthems, hard rock, or funk carioca.

Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/funhouse.com.br). Open 10pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50.

Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/ infernoclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

MPB & Latin Serralheria Espaço Cultural Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, this no-frills venue in a small warehouse in Lapa blends bar and exhibition space, where you’ll find everything from photography to video art and sculpture on display in the covered outdoor bar area, and live music in the indoor space.

Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 0124/ escapeserralheria.org). Open 9pm-2am Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10.

Tapas Another nonchalantly cool hangout on the Augusta strip, Tapas is a two-storey bar with DJs and live bands packing out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of ages and musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação (tapasclub.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-R$15.

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Ministério da Cultura and Instituto Instituto Alfa de Cultura

Ministério da Cultura, Petrobras and Instituto Alfa de Cultura

presents

presents

in Por 7 Vezes

Umusuna September 28 and 29 in

Quasar: Daniele Fernandes

Sankai: © Sankai Juku

October 5 and 6

The Brazilian tour performed with the help of ACA (Agency for Cultural Affairs) Government of Japan 2013

support:

Beauty and perfection in the spectacle of most important contemporary dance company in Japan.

Por sete vezes, a new spetacle to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Quasar.

R. Bento Branco de Andrade Filho, 722 – Santo Amaro Ticket office: 11 5693.4000 e 0300 789 33 77 www.teatroalfa.com.br |

/teatroalfa

@teatroalfa

L

sponsor:

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ADS_34.indd 53

realization:

23/09/13 15:45

Football & World Cup 2014 Falling short of goal

‘I have Libertadores, I don’t need to rent a stadium. I’m a six-time champion, I’ve never been relegated. I am, I am tri-colour.’ Ringing out from the stands at São Paulo FC matches, the chant is a favourite among supporters, and an apt representation of the team whose fans deservedly call it Soberano (Sovereign), a nickname it has cherished throughout its history. But São Paulo’s recent showing is far from befitting a king.

Although 2012 ended on a high note with the Copa Sudamericana title, 2013 once again found it singing the blues. The side struggled from the onset of the Copa Libertadores, and was at the brink of an unprecedented early exit before narrowly clinching the final spot in the round of 16.

It was a short stay of execution, though: it was promptly knocked out

by Atlético Mineiro, which went on to win the title. The team suffered a similar fate at the hands of rival and eventual champion Corinthians in the 2013 Campeonato Paulista.

And things continue to go wrong in the Brasileirão. The paulistano team has gotten off to a worse start than did Corinthians in 2007 and Palmeiras in 2012 – the respective years in which their in-town rivals were relegated to Série B – and it has amassed a slew of record lows: that’s

Football listings How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the matches of São Paulo’s major teams this month.

Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s always best to check before heading out to a match. Tickets can be purchased online at ingressofacil.com.br and futebolcard.com.br.

Helio Suenaga/LatinContent/Getty Images

Accustomed to winning, São Paulo is in the midst of its biggest-ever crisis.

Cecília Gianesi analyses its current state of play

Playing for keeps Goalkeeper Rogério Ceni (above) is fighting to avoid his swan song in Série A

fourteen games without a victory, and eight consecutive defeats, six of which were at home. Adding insult to injury, the team has also beaten its previous record period of time without scoring a goal.

Now, with the midway point of the season upon it, São Paulo continues to lurk close to the relegation zone. But with a starstudded cast of players that includes Paulo Henrique Ganso, Jadson and Osvaldo, what exactly is keeping the team from gelling?

Despite their talents and accomplishments, veterans Rogério

Ceni and Luís Fabiano don’t seem to be able to offer as much as they used to; and the somewhat dictatorial President Juvenal Juvêncio, who’s been in charge since 2006, has been singled out as a villain on a team that was once held up as an example for its administration and organisation.

Controversy and finger-pointing has dominated off the pitch, too, with the manager, Paulo Autuori, being fired and Muricy Ramalho brought back in the hopes that the good results of his previous stint might be due a repeat. He got off to a flying start, snagging three victories in a

row against competitors also fighting relegation: Ponte Preta, Vasco da Gama and Atlético-MG. But perhaps Série B would be good for São Paulo: Corinthians rose from the ashes of relegation to win the following Copa do Brasil.

A similar fall from grace could help São Paulo return to ‘sovereignty’, too. Try telling that to SP’s supporters – they’d much rather keep singing about never having gone down. The players will have to do everything in their power to make sure the words to that song continue to ring true.

29 SEP Brasileirão: São Paulo vs.

Grêmio São Paulo needs the victory to stay out of the relegation zone and avoid a historic fall into Série B, while Grêmio wants the win to keep fighting for the trophy. 4pm, Morumbi.

2 OCT Brasilerão: Corinthians vs. Bahia Bahia temporarily found itself close to the top of the tables – a win against upstart Corinthians could help it claw its way into next year’s Libertadores. 10pm, Pacaembu 2 OCT Brasileirão: Santos vs. São Paulo Paulo Henrique Ganso, who shared the spotlight in Santos with recently transferred Neymar – now in Barcelona – hopes to finally shine wearing São Paulo’s jersey, even if it is against his old team. 10pm,Vila Belmiro.

13 OCT Brasileirão: São Paulo vs.

new promising star, Gabigol – who will prevail? 10pm, Vila Belmiro.

22 OCT Brasileirão: Corinthians vs. Criciúma Every win counts for Corinthians, as it seeks a Libertadores berth to compete for a second title in three years. 4pm, Pacaembu

Corinthians São Paulo hasn’t defeated Corinthians in its home stadium since 2007. As SP creeps closer to relegation, now would be a good time to reverse that trend. 4pm, Morumbi.

13 OCT Brasileirão: Santos vs.

Ponte Preta The new ‘boys from the Vila’ try to give Santos fans something to celebrate in the wake of Neymar’s exit. 4pm, Vila Belmiro.

16 OCT Brasilerão: São Paulo vs Náutico Both teams need to turn things around fast if they plan on staying in the main division of the championship.

10pm, Morumbi.

16 OCT Brasileirão: Santos vs.

Internacional The experienced Uruguayan striker Forlán faces Santos’s

Football stadiums Pacaembu Praça Charles Miller, Pacaembu (3664 4650). Metrô 2, Clinicas. Tickets R$30-$120.

Morumbi Praça Roberto Gomes Pedrosa 1 (3749 8000). Tickets R$30-$120. No credit cards.

Vila Belmiro Rua Princesa Isabel, no number, Santos (13 3257 4000).

Tickets R$20-$60.

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SP Essentials 56 58

SHUTTERSTOCK

Map Resources

Dancing waters The fountains at Parque do Ibirapuera provide a soothing respite from SP’s daily grind

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23/09/13 15:40

Resources Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

HEALTH For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil.

Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of a notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação

da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

instant São Paulo

INST

@timeoutsp

TELEPHONES DiaLling & codes

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Rodrigo G Silva (@rodgsilva)

EMERGENCIES

On Instagram? In São Paulo? Submit your best pics of SP for a chance to see them on this page. This month’s featured photo, taken across from the MASP on Avenida Paulista, is by Rodrigo G. Silva (@ rodgsilva). To share your shots with us, tag them with #timeoutsp. tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

your licence was issued.

Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

CYCLING

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit). The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains.

One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App, or SaferTaxi.

Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand.

Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

WALKING

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.

Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket.

A ride to any destination costs R$3 and

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot.

The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins.

When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo. com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img.org. br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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FO L LO W U S : twitter.com/cidadejardim facebook.com/shoppingcidadejardim Instagram: cidadejardimshopping cidadejardimshopping.com.br

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