Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.35/out. 2013 by Time Out São Paulo

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dition E h s i l Eng 35 Issue #

ISSN 2179-894X

+ WOODY ALLEN + VIDEOBRASIL + PLANETA TERRA

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BLOOM TOWN

See the orchids in all their splendour at one of SP’s hothouses

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

You can also find copies of Time Out

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MANHATTAN

SĂŁo Paulo magazine at the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best newsstands, at the SPTuris stands in Guarulhos and Congonhas airports, and at Movida Rent a Car.

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This month in São Paulo 22 October-21 November 2013

City Beat The word on the street.

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Shopping & Style

Features 10

Woody Allen

Film 45 The Banquetes no Cinema event

We speak to the legendary director about working abroad, writing female roles, and his latest film, Blue Jasmine.

Blooming marvellous

serves up dinner and a movie, plus this month’s film reviews.

Gay & Lesbian 49

From modern orchidariums to the blooms adorning ER trees on many an SP COV RY O T S street, we highlight the best places in town to appreciate orchids.

With a host of LGBT-themed film, theatre, performance, dance and karaoke attractions, the Mix Brasil Festival celebrates diversity in a multimedia style.

Food & Drink

Music & Nightlife

Fish tales

We review the Vila Madalena fishmonger-cum-restaurant Peixaria, and reel in some of the most interesting ways to eat fish in São Paulo.

Bars & Cafés

Football 54 Facing tough schedule changes,

Brazilian footballers have organised to fight for their rights.

SP Essentials 56 Essential information for visitors,

Leo Feltran/Press Image

One of Latin America’s most important art festivals, Videobrasil, returns for its 18th edition with competitive exhibitions, retrospectives, lectures and more.

The annual Planeta Terra Festival brings some of indie rock’s biggest international acts to town.

Oktoberfest celebrations roll on into November, plus the city’s best bars and cafés.

Art & Museums

From mega-malls to crafts and antiques markets, find what you’re looking for, citywide.

and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your image in print.

High spirits Prawns flambéed in pisco (R$39), on the menu at Maremotto

Quote of the month

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover photography Shutterstock

CaetanoDias/Press Image

Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

More times than not, I finish it and have a negative feeling. I think: ‘Oh my God, I had such a great idea and look what I did with it.’ Faraway From ‘Rabeca’ by the Bahian multimedia artist Caetano Dias

WOODY ALLEN, Director See page 10

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Some addresses are meant to be shared

Sense of detail and service of a Palace combined with a warm and family atmosphere. Hôtel - la Grand’ViGne restaurant - la table du laVoir - Caudalie spa - and muCH more... ★★★★★

Chemin de smith Haut lafitte 33650 bordeaux-martillac t. +33 (0)5 57 83 83 83 www.sources-caudalie.com

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City Beat

Paulo Whitaker/reuters

The Big Picture

Red head The imposing Monumento às Bandeiras beside Parque do Ibirapuera is one of SP’s postcard images, created by the sculptor Victor Brecheret and unveiled in 1954. It represents the bandeirantes, 17th-century explorers who scoured Brazil for mineral riches and territory for the Portuguese flag, enslaving indigenous people in the process. Activists last month defaced the sculpture in protest at proposed changes to the law determining the demarcation of indigenous lands.

Editor’s letter Anyone who’s spent more than a few days in São Paulo in recent weeks and months will be as disorientated as we are as to what kind of weather each new day will bring. We’ve been gripped in a merry-go-round of sunny days alternating with chilling polar fronts, and of extra blankets on the bed followed by warm nights spent kicking off the covers. Dressing for the climate has never been harder, with lightweight

scarves joining umbrellas – and sunglasses, and sunscreen – in the bags of canny paulistanas, who are usually equal to whatever this four-seasons-in-one-day city might throw at them. With spring in the air, though, opportunities to get outside are multiplying. The current wave of outdoor food stands and gastronomic events continues to build, and the Planeta Terra one-day festival brings a chance to

catch Blur in the open air, topping a bill that also includes Lana Del Rey, Travis, Beck and dozens of other local and international acts. Or simply seize the next sunny moment and head out into the city’s green spaces – and into its gorgeous orchidariums, where even if a sudden shower threatens, you can stay dry and soak up the beauty of the exotic blooms inside.

Claire Rigby

CATCH UP Find the cover story from our Sept-Oct issue at j.mp/arteats

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Stay up to date with what’s happening in São Paulo daily by heading to timeout.com/sao-paulo. Join us on the social networks too: we’re on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Time Out São Paulo is published by Editora Dansville Ltda. Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil. Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini

Tell us what you love about the city on our Facebook page – facebook.com/ timeoutsaopauloenglish

Snap São Paulo and share it with us on Instagram, using the hashtag #timeoutsp. Follow us at @timeoutsp

Online at timeout.com/sao-paulo From art exhibitions to gigs, tours, gourmet excursions and the mighty season finale of the Formula One Grand Prix, timeout.com/sao-paulo is packed with the best that São Paulo has to offer.

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy Editor (Portuguese) Fabiana Caso Contributing Assistant Editors Rafael Argemon, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Christopher Mack Proofreader Marina Monzillo Rio de Janeiro Editor Alice Moura Design Art Director Bia Gomes Design Intern Rafaela Garcez Print Production Gráfica Aquarela Contributors Kim Taylor Bennett, Dave Calhoun, Grace Fan, David Fear, Nigel Floyd, Bella Todd, Gibby Zobel

Coming up on the site

Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro

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Administration Finance Analyst Sueli Maria da Silva

Bienal de arquitetura

Urban mobility is one of the topics being explored in this year’s Architecture Bienal, which is – fittingly – taking place at venues all across town. Until 1 Dec. j.mp/xbarq

São Paulo F1 Grand Prix 2013 With Sebastian Vettel holding a tight grip on the Formula One world title, São Paulo’s Grand Prix brings the season to a close, on 22-24 November. j.mp/SPF12013

last month’s most viewed

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD David Woodley International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

SP Free walking tour

Heading out on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, this group tour in English is a good entry-level guide to the city’s key spots. j.mp/freewalk

márcio cruz

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MURILO LAIZA/press image

No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.

Ten Wi-Fi cafés Grab your

laptop, get out of your home or hotel room, and settle in for an afternoon online, cup of coffee in hand, at one of the city’s best cafés with Wi-Fi. j.mp/tospWiFi

Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

Vila madalena street art walk With graffiti jostling

for space, Vila Madalena’s colourful, narrow alleyways are the perfect places in which to get lost for a few hours. j.mp/strtartSP

The key to our five-star rating system

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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IMAGEM FILMES/PRESS IMAGE

The

TIME OUT interview

Blue streak Now in the sixth decade of his career, Woody Allen is as productive as ever. His new movie, Blue Jasmine, is among his greatest works, says Dave Calhoun

hen I meet Woody Allen in Paris, the legendary filmmaker looks exactly as you would expect: thick glasses on his nose, beige trousers pulled up high, scared-rabbit look in his eyes and a frame so slight that you feel a draught from under the door might topple him over. Yet don’t be deceived by his fragile appearance: the 77-year-old is enjoying a remarkable boom in his sunset years. Two years ago, Midnight in Paris rivalled his 1970s hits Annie Hall and Manhattan at the box office. Now his latest, Blue Jasmine, is set to do the same. Allen is the quintessential New Yorker, and throughout the 1970s, ’80s and ’90s, he turned his

city into a stage for films that radically redefined screen comedy. He was at the heart of most of them, playing variations on the wound-up, paranoid, hopelessly romantic intellectual. But for the past decade, he’s packed his bags most summers to film in Europe. These days, you’re as likely to spot him shooting Cassandra’s Dream in Kentish Town as you are to see him playing his regular Monday gig with his jazz band near Central Park. True to form, Allen spent this summer on the Côte d’Azur making a film with Colin Firth. But today he’s in Paris to talk about another one. Blue Jasmine is one of his increasingly rare USset stories. A tragedy with dashes of humour, it tells of a wealthy New Yorker (Cate Blanchett) who seeks refuge in San Francisco with her less monied sister (Sally Hawkins). It’s one of his best films in years.

You’ve spent eight of the last ten summers making films abroad. Do these new cities give you fresh ideas and energy as you reach 80? I enjoy it because it gives my family a chance to have a vacation. We just got back from the south of France; I worked there all summer. My wife loved it, the kids loved it. It’s interesting and provocative for me, but it’s limiting: there aren’t many places I want to spend three months. I made four films in London because it’s a nice place to work. But I would not want to make a picture in Damascus. Can you think of anywhere else in the world you’d actually want to live? If I couldn’t live in New York, I’d probably live in Paris, then London. But if I had to be some place in the United States that wasn’t New York, San Francisco is probably where I’d go.

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The

TIME OUT interview

You’re from a very modest Brooklyn background but your films are full of wealthy people and intellectuals. Why is that? It’s the life I’m familiar with. I’m familiar with the lower classes too because I grew up in the lower classes. But I was 19 when I moved into New York. Over the decades, the people who I know and whose experiences I could record have all been people who lived in Manhattan: they’ve been better educated, more financially secure. They range from middle to upper class to even wealthy class – and I was lower class. They interest me. They’re amusing. The fact that they have education and money doesn’t prevent them from making tremendous fools of themselves and having tragic lives. But sometimes a story will occur to me like Broadway Danny Rose, and I like that. Do you know when you’ve made a good film? I know by my standards, but that doesn’t bear any relation to the public response. If I get an idea in my bedroom, and I love what I write, and I make the film, once in a while I think: ‘This is perfect, I made exactly what I set out to make.’ More times than not, I finish it and have a negative feeling. I think: ‘Oh my God, I had such a great idea and look what I did with it.’ Usually you get an unpleasant surprise when you see what you’ve done. Once in a while, you think it’s what you wanted, and then the public has to like it or not. What films of yours are you most happy with? The Purple Rose of Cairo, I thought that hit right on the nose. Bullets Over Broadway did. Husbands and Wives did. Midnight in Paris did. They were just what I wanted to make. They were what I conceived in my bedroom, where I write. I’ve always worked in my bedroom. I get up in the morning, have breakfast, do the treadmill, get the kids off to school, and then I go back into the bedroom and lay down on the bed and write. That’s how it works. Do you write quickly? I write very quickly. Really quickly. People could ask me for a rewrite of a scene and I could be in the restroom with them and grab it and rewrite it in five minutes. I’m not a perfectionist. I don’t obsess over the right word. Not at all. I’m a careless, fast writer. Cate Blanchett is terrific as a damaged woman in Blue Jasmine. It’s a tragedy with dashes of humour. Do you think you’re better at writing serious roles for women than men? It’s more comfortable for me, I don’t know why. When I started writing years ago, I only wrote

imagem filmes/PRESS IMAGE

Blue Jasmine is set there. A decade ago, that would have been cause for comment for someone so strongly identified with New York and the East Coast… Yes, but San Francisco is the good West Coast! It’s lovely and beautiful. It’s not like Los Angeles … That’s got better, I have friends there, but it’s boring. San Francisco is not: it’s charming and interesting. Jasmine in the film needed to visit her sister somewhere, and I needed somewhere I could live graciously for a few months.

Totally focused Woody Allen (centre) directing Cate Blanchett and Alec Baldwin in ‘Blue Jasmine’

for men, and I was the lead. People would say I’m always writing for the guy and the guy’s point-ofview, and it was limiting. Then, after I was living with Diane Keaton [actress in eight of his films and his partner in the 1970s], and I got to know her well, she was very impressive to me and very influential. I was able to write Annie Hall for her. It was the first, really significant woman’s part I ever wrote. Then I found myself writing for women most of the time. It evolved unconsciously, and now, you’re right, particularly when the character is to be more

‘It makes life easier if I’m the star. It’s not twice as difficult to direct yourself. It’s half as difficult’ serious and the story is more complex, I gravitate to the problems of women. Do you find it easier to be funny about men? Yes, it’s much easier. I’m much more comfortable feeling the perspective of men when I’m doing comedy. I guess it’s because I’m a comedian. I just feel it from my own experience. How about in your life, do you prefer the company of men or women? Oh, I prefer the company of women, and I don’t mean that in a joking way. I’m surrounded by women. My producer is my sister, I have two daughters and I find myself in female company all the time. I feel more relaxed around women. It shouldn’t be

like that because my mother was the strict disciplinarian and my father was an easygoing guy who took me to baseball games. And yet my natural tendency is to gravitate towards women’s company. You’re acting less in your films these days. Do you miss it? I’m going to be in a movie that the actor John Turturro directed [Fading Gigolo: Allen plays an amateur, late-life pimp] and I had a small role in that. I don’t write for myself at the moment. It’s only because there was a time for decades when I could believably get the girl and be the hero. But, when you get older, the possibility for parts diminishes. I can no longer play the husband longing for the neighbour’s wife or the guy who’s lusting after the girl. It’s not believable. It’s hard for me to find parts for myself that are funny. I don’t want to play geriatric parts. I want to play something that’s funny. If, tomorrow, there’s a great part for me, I’ll do it in a minute. It makes life easier if I’m the star of the picture. It means I don’t have to direct anybody. It cuts down on the conversations. It’s not twice as difficult to direct yourself. It’s half as difficult. The number of films you make suggests you never stop working. Do you? I don’t work hard compared to a taxi driver or a teacher or a policeman. People think making a film every year is overwhelming. It’s not. Once you have the money and the script, how long does it take? It’s not that big a deal. I have plenty of time to play with my children, go to basketball games, see movies, take walks, play with my jazz band. The problem is making good films, that’s the hard part. Making films is not difficult. Blue Jasmine is released on 15 November. See review in Film.

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ensorial, sensual, delicate and rare, orchids are the celebrities of the plant world. But don’t just ogle them in magazines like this one: get out and gaze upon their perfection in the flesh at the excellent Orquidário Ruth Cardoso, which opened in 2010, in Parque Villa-Lobos. The modern, translucent dome of the orchidarium that stands proud in a corner of the park contains a huge variety of more than 170 species from around the world – Brazil, India, Mexico and Thailand – so that there are always flowers in bloom. Named in memory of the anthropologist and wife of ex-President Fernando Henrique Cardoso, the giant greenhouse was designed by the architect Décio Tozzi in a dome shape inspired by ocas – indigenous dwellings – with natural light and constant air circulation key elements of the design. Pride of place is given to Rhynchosophrocattleya Ruth Cardoso – an orchid that flowers in November and December and which, racily, is a part hybrid with Sophrocattleya Ayrton Senna. At the centre of the dome are columns of rusting metal intended to give the look of wood, filled with a mosaic of multi-coloured blooms. ‘Have a smell of this one,’ encourages Geraldo Neto, known as Trisca, who has spent his life cultivating orchids, and is part of the team at Florestal Atlântica, the company which maintains the orchids in the park’s orchidarium. ‘People say it’s just like white chocolate.’ And sure enough, Maxillaria rufescens (the light fox-red maxillaria), although not a spectacular flower, has a whiff of that sweet aroma. Another orchid, while smelling putrid, has fascinating

intricate moving parts. ‘It all depends on the type of pollinator the orchid wants to attract,’ says Trisca, whose love of orchids started early. ‘When I was a child, there were orchids that left me enchanted,’ he says, ‘but they were so expensive that I’d be happy just to see them. Today, we have the bonus of being able to make hybrids, so from the same plant you can get an orchid that would cost R$500 for R$15.’ Regardless of selling price, orchids are a good investment if nurtured well: with an estimated 20,000 species, 70,000 if you count hybrids, they’re the most numerous family in the plant world for good reason. ‘An orchid is always reborn. If you look after it well, it can last your whole life and be passed from generation to generation’, says the biologist Alexandre Soares, of Florestal Atlântica. And he should know. ‘A good part of this collection here is from my grandmother, Lavinha. She looked after them until her last days,’ he says. There are even orchids here that were rescued – some literally from bins – during the construction of São Paulo’s ring road, the Rodoanel. ‘There’s a legend that orchids are bad for the human spirit,’ says Trisca. ‘But it originated from the white man lying to indigenous people [in Brazil], telling them orchids would bring bad luck to the villages, and then stealing the plants for themselves.’ The legend clearly wasn’t much of a success, though, since Brazil boasts the richest biodiversity of orchids in the world. Orquidário Ruth Cardoso, Parque VillaLobos, Rua Professor Fonseca Rodrigues 2001, Alto de Pinheiros (3023 0316). Open 9am-5pm daily. Monthly workshops are held to teach the care of orchids: email pvl@ambiente.sp.gov.br.

Other

orchidariums Jardim Botânico

With the arrival of spring, Gibby Zobel goes in search of the city’s most spectacular orchids

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Gibby Zobel Gibby Zobel

Hothouse flowers From purples to pinks, reds and yellows, orchids come in a vibrant spectrum of colour

At this haven for nature and tranquility in the south of the city, you’ll find 1,159 species of plants, as well as dozens of fresh-water streams, in more than 36 acres of botanical gardens. Explore the museum, themed gardens and water-lily ponds and wander amongst beautiful landscaping. To head straight for the orchids, look out for the greenhouse – built in 1928 – which houses hundreds of the perfectly-petalled flowers. Avenida Miguel Stéfano 1331. Água Funda (5073 6300/ibot.sp.gov.br). Open 9am-5pm TueSun. Admission R$2.50-$5.

Orquidário Morumby

This orchidarium, which sells a myriad of different orchid species, is also the place to take your ailing orchid if it’s in anything less than blooming health. At the orchid ‘ward’, the kindly staff will tell you everything you need to know about taking care of your plant. Enjoy a cup of coffee, or a spot of lunch while you’re there. Avenida Professor Vicente Rao 1513. Brooklin Paulista (5041 2391/morumby. com.br). Open 9am-7pm Tue-Sat; 9am5pm Sun. FREE

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Tree

huggers

ana moraes

Gibby Zobel finds orchids clinging gracefully to trees across town

Keep your eyes peeled as you walk the streets of São Paulo, and chances are you’ll soon stumble upon a orchid, improbably sprouting from a tree trunk. Look closer and you’ll see it’s been attached by wire – a gesture of civil kindness for the appreciation of all. This neighbourly practice to brighten up the city’s streets and squares can be traced to a law passed in 2004, banning the sale of the endangered samambaia fern – known locally as ‘xaxim’ – which is used as mulch for orchids in vases. ‘It’s only really started happening in the last few years because of the lack of xaxim,’ says orchid expert Trisca (see previous page), explaining why it has become harder to grow orchids indoors. ‘To put an orchid on a tree, all you need is a piece of dried coconut bark. It’s a good idea to fix it three metres up the trunk as there’s always some clever little sod who might think of taking it home,’ he adds. The orchids are not a parasite to host trees and can be easily attached to a trunk by wrapping wire around the bark, leaving nature to do the rest. The orchids don’t need as much water or care as when they’re tiny shoots, so a quick spray on the strip of coconut bark every couple of weeks will do the trick. When cared for properly, they can reflower for life. ‘People get orchids as presents for Valentine’s Day or Mother’s Day, but when the flower dies and they don’t have a lot of space in their apartments, they put them up on the trees nearby,’ says Alexandre Soares, of Florestal Atlântica. ‘I’ve done it lots of times. When there are roadworks or construction in a place where orchids grow, I rescue them and put them up on trees. It’s just a nice thing to do for the city – and for the orchids,’ he says.

ana moraes

Cling ons The kindly, civil gesture of attaching orchids to trees can be spotted on streets all over São Paulo

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés 18 38

TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

Eating Out Bars & Cafés

Good catch Salt cod with creamy polenta and olives (R$89), a new entry on the menu at Kaá

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Eating Out Review Peixaria Bar e Venda Meca is one of a selection of giant river fish that also include pirarucu, filhote, and tambaqui. The Chapa Andaluzia mixed grill (R$68) came with pieces of meca plus shrimp, octopus, mussels and disappointingly undercooked lagostins (crayfish). Coffee (R$5.50) is done the old fashioned way with individual coffee filters dripping into tin mugs, served with cake and shavings of rapadura (unrefined sugar), nicely rounding off the novelty, rustic charm at Peixaria’s heart. Catherine Balston Rua Inácio Pereira da Rocha 112, Vila Madalena (2589 3963). Open 6pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses R$24.90-$95.

catherine balston photos

camarão na moranga (shrimpstuffed pumpkin, R$24.90) and the like – as well as foreign classics such as paella (R$48). Order some caipirinhas (R$14), which come in glass jars, ready shaken, and sit back and take your time. The food, while good, is far from five star, so this is one for a fun, laid-back lunch rather than a gourmet treat. Our fried starters – octopus balls (R$28) and crab pastries (R$26) – were high on the filling-to-pastry ratio, though a little on the greasy side. A coal-fired barbecue in an upturned canoe churns out grilled fish and seafood – we tried the meca (R$32), a meaty, tasty fillet, served with black-eyed peas, tomato salsa and farofa (toasted manioc flour).

Hooked A giant hanging fish is one of Peixaria’s quirky design details

The seaside comes to the city at this fishmonger-cum-restaurant

Fish is the forgotten cousin of São Paulo dining culture. Other than sushi, which is a local obsession, the spoils of the sea seem to be more often consumed at the seaside than in town. Bringing a bit of beach culture, not to mention wrigglingly fresh fish, to the heart of the city, however, is Peixaria, whose fishmongermeets-restaurant formula is still commanding hour-long lunch queues after almost a year in business. Deck chairs, cheerful orange buoys, baskets of fresh fruit and

veg and fairy lights in fishing nets adorn the quirky, colourful space, striking a note somewhere between supersized beach hut, fisherman’s shed, and rural grocery store. Groups of diners are escorted to tables outside on the pavement, or up on one of the restaurant’s two mezzanine floors, over one of which presides a doughty old tree, left to grow up through the glass roof. In the main atrium, look up and you’ll come face to face with a giant plastic fish, suspended from the ceiling like a leftover from the set of Jaws. The menu is expansive, covering all the Brazilian fishy favourites – that is, moqueca fish stew (R$48),

Street wise Pavement tables (left) and fried squid (right) at Peixaria

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Food & Drink

gone fishing

Diner’s digest

Find more fresh fish fixes with one of these SP foodie experiences, says Catherine Balston

Culinary comings and goings around town

Ceviche Sundays at Suri

The wholesale market CEAGESP estimates that a whopping 60,000 tonnes of fish and seafood is sold under its mammoth roof each year. And to offer the culinary curious a glimpse of the diversity of the produce sold, the good folk at the market are running an allyou-can-eat seafood buffet, with paella, shrimp, seafood salads and pastas, moquecas (fish stews) and a weekly changing menu of grilled fish. Price R$59.90, doesn’t include drinks. Gate 3, CEAGESP (See Shopping listings). Open 6pm-midnight Wed, Thu; 6pm-2am Fri, Sat. Until 2 November (festivaldopescadoceagesp.wordpress.com).

Cauê Moreno/press image Zeka Videira/press image

Seafood buffet at CEAGESP

Chez Burger First there was Lorena 1989, which then become Chez Lorena. Then there was Chez Burger. Chez MIS followed. Then Chez Burger closed. And now it has reopened. Still with us? In a coming-and-going of names and locations, the fashionable team behind the Chez group of restaurants has set up the latest incarnation of Chez Burger in a hole-in-the-wall space next to the group’s nightclub, Bar Secreto (see Nightclubs), serving classic burgers and fries over the counter until 4am Wednesday through Saturday. Rua Cunha Gago 620, Pinheiros (3804 7755/chezburger.com.br).

Acarajé at Praça Benedito Calixto

Rogerio Gomes/press image

For a taste of North-Eastern street food, there’s nothing quite like acarajé – piping-hot blackeyed-pea patties, deep fried in palm oil then stuffed with dried shrimp and vatapá (a shrimp and peanut paste). Get messy eating them at the food stalls at the Saturday flea market at Praça Benedito Calixto (j.mp/TOSP_calx), or at the Acarajé da Barra stall, at the square’s Sunday gourmet food fair, Feirinha Gastronômica (j.mp/TOSP_gastron).

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Moqueca do Tutu

DJ Tutu Moraes is best known for banging out Brazilian beats at São Paulo’s itinerant club night, Santo Forte. What’s less known, however, is that the DJ also makes a mean moqueca (fish stew), Bahian style – one of the best we’ve ever had, even – with a delicately seasoned sauce of coconut milk, onion, tomatoes, palm oil and coriander. Try it at Moqueca do Tutu – a monthly gathering with Moraes, where an arty crowd gathers to while away the afternoon sipping on caipirinhas between trips to the buffet table. Price R$44 (doesn’t include drinks). 3-10pm, 9 November. Venue TBC. j.mp/TOSP_mtutu

Le Bilboquet A smart address for a smart import – New York’s French bistro Le Bilboquet has opened a branch in São Paulo opposite the five-star Fasano hotel, serving up some of the same Gallic standards as its US sibling. Le Bilboquet is the latest in a recent burst of blow-ins from abroad, including New York’s Bistrot Bagatelle (Rua Padre João Manuel 950, Jardim Paulista, 3062 5870, bistrotbagatelle.com.br) and St. Tropez’s Brasserie des Arts (Rua Padre João Manuel 1231, Jardim Paulista, 3061 3326, brasseriedesarts.com), all vying for the same high-rolling customers within just a few blocks of each other. Time will tell whether brunch – a popular draw at the Big Apple original – catches on. Rua Vitório Fasano 49, Jardim Paulista (2615 1510/lebilboquet.com.br).

Maremotto Peruvian cuisine isn’t showing any signs of going out of food fashion. Here in São Paulo, the latest opening with one foot in the Peru camp is Maremotto, where chef-owner Daniel Jitsuya – a Peruvian with Japanese roots – blends the two countries’ cuisines in contemporary dishes that have just a hint of Brazil, too. Maremotto arrives hot on the heels of the recently opened Osaka – a ceviche-sushi hybrid and the latest branch of a South American chain, of which Jitsuya, conincidentally was once an owner. Rua Doutor Mario Ferraz 479, Itaim Bibi (2309 3060/mare-motto.com).

Yesh! A stone’s throw from both the office-lined Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and the Instituto Tomie Ohtake – an art institute where the culturally curious can happily while away an afternoon – the new lunch-only spot Yesh! serves up a rich diversity of Jewish diaspora cuisine, buffet style. From Eastern European dishes such as gelfite fish to North African and Middle Eastern classics including houmous and baba ganoush, diners can either opt for just cold dishes (R$26) or go hot, too, for an extra R$4. Rua Cunha Gago 770, Pinheiros (3032 4128/yeshrestaurante.com).

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On the last Sunday of the month, the Colombian chef Dagoberto Torres of Suri Ceviche Bar (see listings) will be setting up a stall outside his friendly restaurant, on a quiet street in Pinheiros, for the Domingo Cevichero (‘Ceviche Sunday’). Chow down on pots of classic ceviche (R$12), paired with pisco sours (R$14) while the sounds of salsa and cumbia bring the weekend to a delightfully Latino close. 6-9pm, Sunday 27 October, 24 November.

Square deal Crispy nigiri at Maremotto

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Food & Drink

Restaurant listings How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes. We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

Stew pot A taste of Tuscany

NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers. BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro GREEK Acrópoles You can imagine Acrópoles landing a minor part in a Woody Allen movie, or a cameo role in Seinfeld as the quintessential familyowned neighbourhood joint. Today, word is out that the food is good and paulistanos from all over town flock here, spilling onto the pavement outside and drinking draught beer as they wait patiently for a table to come free. In fact, weekends can get uncomfortably packed despite the outmoded downtown location. The decor is beyond faded, with wonky photos of crumbling temples, and the veteran owners look like they might have had a hand in building the original Acrópolis. The steaming kitchen rolls out Greek classics such as moussaka and baked lamb, along with some nods to Italian classics. Nothing’s spectacular – but it’s good, solid, home-made stuff. Rua da Graça 364, Bom Retiro (3223 4386/ restauranteacropoles.com.br). Open noon11pm daily. Main courses R$30-$60; couvert R$25-$45. BARGAIN FRENCH La Casserole It first opened in 1954, and since then little has changed in this frozen-in-time bistro – which is no bad thing. The service is friendly and charming, and the food is good, solid, bourgeois cooking. The menu doesn’t pander or dumb down, though – there are classics like tripes à la mode de Caen and kidneys in beaujolais wine, alongside well cooked lamb and the tried-and-tested coq au vin. It’s worth spending a little time walking round the neighbourhood by

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We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Despite still being a relative newcomer to the city’s Italian dining scene, Tre Bicchieri hasn’t wasted any time in garnering a loyal following. Favourites on its Tuscan menu include the Cacciucco Livornese (R$52), a fish stew from the Tuscan port city of Livorno. See listings.

serves crunchy-based pizzas, such as the house special – pizza Camelo – with endive, bacon, palm heart and olives, or a healthier rocket and sun-dried-tomato option. Deviating slightly from the Italian theme, another tasty option is the frango à passarinho (crispy, deep fried chicken). Rua Engenheiro Edgar Egídio de Souza 98, Higienópolis (3822 5050/ pizzariacamelo.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Fri-Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun-Thu. Main courses R$64-$116 (for two). Other locations Citywide. ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom fettuccine is one example of why Carlota wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy shrimp with parma ham risotto. The restaurant’s recreation of the classic Brazilian dessert known as Romeo and Juliet elevates a simple dessert to an exquisite guava soufflé in a queijo Catupiry (Brazilian cream cheese) sauce. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/carlota.com.br). Open 7pmmidnight Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$73; couvert R$11. MIDDLE EASTERN Kebabel ‘Beer and

day (be careful in the area after nightfall) to enjoy the small flower market nearby. Largo do Arouche 346, Centro (3331 6283/lacasserole.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$38.50-$72.50; lunch R$42-$52; couvert R$10-$14. VEGETARIAN Nutrisom Dating back

to 1980, this is one of the old guard of vegetarian buffets in downtown São Paulo, and it remains the one to beat. The simple, somewhat dated décor may not create the best first impression, but the food is always made with an imaginative twist. Start off by grazing on a variety of salads or a bowl of soup, and then hit the hot food counter, which typically features a dozen or so Brazilian dishes that vary each day. Cheesecake and ice-cream round off this high-quality buffet, and it’s a steal at under R$20 midweek, or a bit more on Sundays, though curiously it shuts up shop on Saturdays. A newer, slicker Vila Olímpia branch opened a few years ago, bringing this top veggie lunch option to that area’s hordes of office workers. Viaduto Nove de Julho 160, 1st Floor (3255 4263/ nutrisom.com.br). Open 11am-3.15pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4.30pm Sun. Prices buffet R$19.90 (R$27 Sundays). Other location Rua Ramos Batista 443, Vila Olímpia (2639 5799).

Consolação & Higienópolis BARBECUE Angélica Grill Make sure

you’re feeling carnivorous when you visit this large rodízio – it’s all-you-can-eat meat, fresh off the grill. Waiters circle the brightly lit dining room with any of 25 types of carne, and fill your plate until you surrender. Supplement your meal with side dishes from the extensive salad bar (sushi, bread, veggies and more), but be careful not to overload here, or you will not be able to take full advantage of the meat bonanza. Rodízio plate management is a practiced art. If you are vying for the title of World’s Biggest Glutton, servers will tempt your sweet tooth with a rolling dessert cart or cook up delicious banana flambé while you watch. Note that Friday is seafood and fish day, and that desserts and beverages are charged separately. Avenida Angélica 430, Santa Cecília (3664 0070/angelicagrill.com). Metrô 3, Santa Cecília and and Marechal Deodoro. Open 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39.90-$55.

ITALIAN Camelo What started out in 1957 as an Arabic restaurant serving esfihas and houmous has reinvented itself over the years, and is now one of the city’s most traditional pizza joints. Vast, bright, busy and welcoming, Camelo

kebabs’ is Kebabel’s tagline, and boy do they deliver on both. Served in a traditional pitta, the kebabs are skinny but packed full of flavour. Try a falafel kebab with pickles, Arab spices, and tahini (sesame paste) on the side. Meat lovers can opt for lamb or kofta kebabs. Still hungry? Munch on a portion of fried cauliflower or smoked javali (wild boar) sausages. To quench your thirst, order an award-winning Colorado Appia or Indica (chope R$7.50), brewed in Ribeirão Preto, or one of a range of bottled imports like the Belgian Delirium Nocturnum (R$36). Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 22, Consolação (3259 1805/ kebabel.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noonmidnight Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 6pmmidnight Sun. Main courses R$18.90$22.90. Other location Rua João Moura 871, Pinheiros (3062 7530).

ECLECTIC La Frontera A lesser-known cousin of the well-loved Argentinian steakhouse, Martín Fierro, La Frontera opened in 2006 but still feels like a local secret, despite being sandwiched between two of the neighbourhood’s busiest roads. The owner hails from Argentina but the menu is inspired by cuisines from all over South America. The paleta de leitão (suckling pig), cooked in the oven for three hours and topped with a crisp crackling and potato purée, was light, tender and full of flavour. Sommelier Ezequiel Rodrigues has put together an excellent selection of

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Food & Drink

120 wines, and it’s pure pleasure to hear him describe the options. Rua Coronel José Eusébio 105, Higienópolis (3255 8867/ lafrontera.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 12.30-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 12.30-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$27$87; lunch R$42.

Amazonian fruit. Tordesilhas regulars will miss the restaurant’s excellent-value tasting menu, which was taken off the menu following a change of address in May 2013, to the upmarket Jardins neighbourhood. Alameda Tietê 489, Jardim Paulista (3107 7444/tordesilhas. com). Open 5pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$53-$77.

FRENCH La Tartine You can’t go wrong

with friendly La Tartine for an informal bite to eat with friends. This small bistro has three cosy rooms: two on the ground floor and one upstairs, where you can also settle into one of the sofas while you wait – although don’t be surprised to find a queue forming down the stairs at weekends. The menu is small and reasonably priced, featuring traditional French fare such as quiche and salad, steak au poivre and coq au vin. Rua Fernando Albuquerque 267, Consolação (3259 2090). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7.30pm-12.30am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$24-$38. BARGAIN

Lapa, Perdizes, & Barra Funda BARBECUE Fogão Gaúcho This

expansive steakhouse is a lone beacon of competence in a semi-industrial area in the north of the city. The quality of its cuts, the salting of the meat, and the skill at the grill all work in perfect harmony. Its superefficient waiting staff, clad in white shirts, leather boots and loose gaúcho trousers – scores it bonus points. The architecture – a series of bland cojoining rooms – is nothing to write home about, but the quality woods and marbles throughout, and an excellent bar area, make up for any design deficiencies. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767B, Barra Funda (3611 3008/fogaogaucho.com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm, 6-11.30pm Mon-Thu; 11.30am-11.30pm Fri, Sat; 11.30am10pm Sun. Fixed price R$72 (dinner); R$78 (lunch).

CONTEMPORARY Rex Restaurante Few things warm the heart more than a tale of one man and his dog. In the case of Rex, the funky late-night supper club from the chef Cassio Machado, the dog in question is one Baboo, Machado’s late Rottweiler. Baboo is reproduced in kitschy sculpture form by a number of local artists in the narrow, whimsical space. Soak up the eclectic, sensory overload decor as you browse the menu of creative burgers and simple bistro fare with a twist, like filet mignon with wasabi, ginger and rosemary (R$49), or salmon tweaked with a tart raspberry vinaigrette (R$54). Another pleasant surprise, beyond the sophisticated dining at 4am, are the wines by the glass, which you can try before you buy. Rua da Consolação 3193, Jardim Paulista (2506 7386/ rexrestaurante.com.br). Open 8pm-4am Mon-Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Main courses R$28-$55; couvert R$6.50.

BRAZILIAN Tordesilhas Fans of Brazilian high gastronomy will not be disappointed by this rare example of a famous chef making truly traditional dishes. Mara Salles was inspired by her roots in Pernambuco (a state on the north-east coast) to work mostly with local ingredients and to highlight regional dishes. Salles’s culinary wizardry is best sampled in the pato no tucupi (duck and manioc stew). For dessert, try the cupuaçu ice cream – a mind-blowingly tangy

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BRAZILIAN Rota do Acarajé They do a delicious acarajé here – a bean-paste patty in to which you stuff vatapá (shrimp paste), prawns, and lashings of chilli – which come conveniently minisized for sharing as a starter. For mains, try the Bahian moqueca – a spicy fish or prawn stew with coconut milk, enriched with a rainbow of tropical flavours. The no-frills decor and pavement tables all give the place an authentically unrefined Bahian feel – as does the friendly service, which is as agonisingly slow as it is in Bahia. But the beer is cold and the food is hot, so relax and switch off that São Paulo stopwatch: for the next hour or so, you’re in Bahia. Rua Martim Francisco 529/533, Santa Cecília (3668 6222/ rotadoacaraje.com.br). Metrô 3, Santa Cecília. Open noon-11.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses R$54$115 (for two).

ITALIAN Mangiare Hidden away in Vila Leopoldina, a fast-growing neighbourhood in the west of the city, Mangiare packs in as many diners as possible to its expansive but cosy former warehouse space. After initial teething troubles,

Mangiare is now running like a finely Vila Madalena tuned orchestra – pastas are served al & Pinheiros dente, grilled meats are succulent, and INTERNATIONAL Arturito Intimate dark the waiters are calm and collected. Don’t wood panelling, austere lighting, and skip the delicious couvert of homemade stylish seating with cushions and breads. The maltagliati pasta with throw pillows distinguish this Bolognese ragoût (R$32) is a luxurious member of the delicious option, but if you’re São Paulo dining scene. It’s dining à deux, try the la vera positively bursting at the bisteca alla fiorentina (R$120 weekend, since word got for two people) – a T-bone r e n in -d around about the restaurant steak covered in garlic and A pre 25) $ (R i n and its trendy Argentinian rosemary. To top it all off, negro chef and co-proprietor, Paola the trio dell’amore (R$15), Carosella, and it’s now on the made with Brazilian AMMA must-do list of every well-tochocolate, is a triple treat. Avenida do paulistano. The wonderfully varied Imperatriz Leopoldina 681,Vila Leopoldina and ever-changing menu includes some (3034 5074/mangiaregastronomia.com. uncommon dishes for Brazil, such as br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Monleg of lamb, ceviche (raw fish marinated Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Main in citrus juices) and the Argentinian courses R$32-$60. specialty of grilled sweetbreads. The Japanese Zendô Head straight for a seat menu also features outstanding classics: at the counter, order the combinado do freshly made pasta, prime beef (try the chef (R$80) and prepare to be immersed exquisite ojo de bife) and pork as well as in the Brazilian-Japanese creations that an extensive wine list. Rua Artur Azevedo sushi purists would call sacrilege; others, 542, Pinheiros (3063 4951/arturito.com. a damn good contemporary twist. The br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, sashimi here is fabulously fresh. We tried Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Thu, Fri; haro hot – shimeji mushrooms wrapped 12.30-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-4pm inside crunchy spring-roll batter, followed Sun. Main courses R$42-$103; lunch by the pantanal – salmon uramaki topped R$45-$56. with deep fried kale. Be prepared to arrive ECLECTIC Beato Opened at an with an open mind, and leave with a belly increasingly gourmet end of Rua dos swelling to sumo-sized proportions. Rua Pinheiros, Beato is a cool, colourful spot Desembargador do Vale 438, Perdizes that strikes a careful balance between hip (3554 3433/zendosushi.com.br). Open design and good food. From the lust green 7-11pm Tue; noon-3pm; 7-11pm Wed, foliage on one of the ceilings upstairs to Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Friday; the super-sized white chairs, it’s an odd 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; 1-4pm Sun. hybrid of furniture showroom and Alice Main courses set for one from R$44.90; in Wonderland. The food isn’t as creative lunch R$29. as the décor – this is a simple, unfussy menu, peppered with the odd attentiongrabbing dish. We ordered the prime rib (R$45) – a tender pork rib served with a rosemary risotto. The tagliarini ao limone with crunchy Parma ham (R$39) was perfectly al dente, though the promised ham was mostly notable by its absence. All in all, expect tasty, good-looking dishes albeit with bijou portion sizes that may leave big appetites unsated. Rua dos Pinheiros 174, Pinheiros (2538 8107/ beatorestaurante.com.br). Open noon3.30pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 1-7pm, 8pm-12:30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$48; couvert R$6.

Number 46 in the world, and number five in South America: It’s been a big year for Maní, if you set any store by the World’s 50 Best Restaurant awards, published by the British magazine Restaurant. Prizes or no, we’re huge fans of Helena Rizzo and Daniel Redondo’s fresh, modern and playful approach to cooking. For Brazilian ingredients at their best, go for dishes like the peach palm and pumpkin tortelli (R$59, see photo). See listings.

VEGETARIAN Casa Prema When hunger hits at lunchtime, head to this modest little Pinheiros restaurant for homecooked lacto-vegetarian fare, though as the place fills up, don’t be surprised to find yourself sharing a table. Follow your fellow diners’ footsteps and make more than one trip to the buffet table – the choice, which changes daily, is impressive. The mango and pineapple chutneys are packed with flavour and make the perfect complement to the sweet potato kibe and the tofu curry. The buzz of the lunchtime rush lends some energy and atmosphere to a space that might otherwise feel a little shabby. Rua Diogo Moreira 312, Pinheiros (3815 1448/casaprema.com/ inicial.html). Metrô 4, Faria Lima.Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-3.30pm Sat. Prices buffet R$19 or $31.20 per kilo. ECLECTIC Chou Clearly designed with romance in mind, Chou is an atmospheric spot for dinner, whether you sit in the vintage-Provençal-style interior or out in

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BRAZILIAN Consulado Mineiro Step

into this creaky yellow house and you may feel like a João Guimarães Rosa character (Brazil’s most famous modernist novelist was from the state of Minas Gerais). The homey atmosphere, wooden tables and paintings of the Minas countryside evoke well-preserved colonial towns, like Ouro Preto. As is the custom in Minas, all the plates are intended for two, but really, a third person could easily partake in this hearty, reasonably-priced meal. Try the tutu especial or the tutu à Mineira, the most famous dishes from this huge central state. The former comes with beans, sausage and eggs, pork cutlets and mandioca (manioc) with banana, a couve salad (chopped and steamed kale, with garlic and butter), and rice. If you’re in the mood for home cooking as opposed to a refined meal, this is the place. Praça Benedito Calixto 74, Pinheiros (3088 6055/3064 3882/consuladomineiro. com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-8pm Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$54-$71 for two; lunch R$20.90-$28.

ECLECTIC Feed Food The leafy backyard restaurant of hip boutiquecum-gallery Cartel 011, Feed Food serves up dishes as eclectic as the venue. The chef doesn’t always hit the mark, as we discovered with a somewhat bland pumpkin risotto (R$27). A better choice were the noodles crunch com frango ao curry (R$27) – a chicken curry topped with noodles, shaved carrot, and toasted almonds. And the wonderfully creative caipirinhas – think green fig and lime, or banana with ginger and rum – are unmissable. The same goes for the tapioca pudim (R$10), a beautifully presented dessert topped with baba de moça (a creamy egg yolk and coconut sweet) and a solitary purple pitanga berry. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (4305 7727). Open noonmidnight Tue-Sat; 1pm-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$39. Eclectic Gardênia Old(ish)-timers will have seen the metamorphosis in 2005 that transformed the no-frills-bar Café Gardênia into simply Gardênia. After a big refurbishment, under the new ownership of Carlos Moraes, Gardênia has emerged as the restaurant in São Paulo in which to eat mouth-wateringly good lamb, which is raised on their own farm. With over seven lamb options on the menu, choosing is the hard part. Try the rack of lamb with mint pesto or the tender paleta de cordeiro –shoulder of lamb – marinated in white wine,

Birthday menu La Mar

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Food & Drink

the covered backyard, where fairy lights dangle between the trees. The speciality here is succulent meat and fish, cooked on a charcoal grill tucked away at the back of the house, which means the smokiness lingers only on the food, rather than the hair. The Mediterranean-style side dishes are creative and packed with fresh herbs, like the mint risoni with pecans (R$14). The service can be inattentive, so console yourself while you wait with one of the brilliantly imaginative drinks. All in all, a delightful choice for dinner, though expect to pay upwards of R$150 per head for three courses and a drink. Rua Mateus Grou 345, Pinheiros (3083 6998/chou. com.br). Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses R$36$76; couvert R$9.50.

La Mar, São Paulo’s outpost for Peru’s most prolific celebrity chef, Gastón Acurio, is celebrating its fourth birthday with a makeover; new crockery, new décor, a new soundtrack and a series of new dishes, bringing yet more of Peru’s crossroads cooking – we’re talking Andean, Spanish, Italian, Chinese and Japanese influences – to its menu. For ceviche – the citrus-cured seafood that has quickly become an SP favourite – don’t miss the Nikey (R$27), with tuna or salmon steeped in lime, soy, tamarind, sugar and Peruvian aji chilli. To drink, make it a pisco, in a pisco sour (R$23), or in the refreshing Inka Guaraná (R$21), with fizzy guaraná and lime juice. See listings. garlic and rosemary and served either individually or as the whole shoulder for sharing. A seat out the front affords a lush view of the towering trees clumped together on Praça dos Omaguás. Gardênia spread its wings in 2009, opening a second branch in Jardins. Praça dos Omaguás 110, Pinheiros (3815 9247/ gardeniaresto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 1-9pm Sun. Main courses R$37$49; couvert R$7. Other location Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 726, Jardim Paulistano (3088 3044). VEGETARIAN Goshala Rustic heavy

woods, from the front door to the tables and chairs inside, exude an understated quality from the get go at this recently opened veggie spot. An internal courtyard affords more seating and looks like a promising alfresco dining spot away from the noisy street. The menu is for the most part Brazilian, with an Indian twist – aromatic and gently spicy dishes sit alongside contemporary Brazilian fare. We started with cheese and palm-fruit samosas and a baked Camembert, served with relish and a chapati. For mains, the tangy, aromatic paneer curry was a highlight. Look out, too, for the dish of the day (R$22 or R$26 including dessert), chalked up on the blackboard and published on the website each day. Rua dos Pinheiros 267,

Pinheiros (3063 0367/goshala.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7-10pm Thu-Sat. Main courses R$22$23; lunch R$22-$26. JAPANESE Hamatyo Known universally as ‘that little place on Pedroso’, it takes only 20 bottoms to fill all the seats at this cosy, informal Pinheiros spot. There are no pratos quentes (hot dishes) here – chef Ryoichi Yoshida serves only sushi and sashimi, and has earned a solid reputation for his careful selection of ingredients, as well as the personal attention he gives to each customer. Watch in awe as the Japanese veteran plys his trade with precision behind the counter, all while keeping up a good-humoured banter. The sushi sets, while not cheap (R$70 for 14 pieces; R$150 for a more elaborate 16 pieces), are good value, and the variety, always seasonal, is truly impressive. Avenida Pedroso de Moraes 393, Pinheiros (3813 1586/hamatyo.com. br). Open 6.30-11pm Mon-Sat. Prices sushi set for one R$70-$150. FRENCH L’Aperô Well away from the Vila Madalena hustle and bustle, L’Aperô is a great little spot for dinner under the stars. Sit outside at one of a scattering of tables, covered in redand-white checkered tablecloths, and peruse the menu, which you’ll find unceremoniously glued to the back of

a wine bottle. The food is nothing to write home about, but the laid-back charm and modest prices make this an ideal neighbourhood bolt-hole. Our tip? Avoid the gritty moules and go for one of the salads, served in large bowls with a satisfying ratio of lettuce to tasty bits, such as crispy sautéed potatoes or melted goat’s cheese on croutons. Rua Mourato Coelho 1343, Vila Madalena (3814 2445/lapero.com.br). Open 7pm1am Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$24-$36; couvert R$10. BARGAIN FRENCH Le Jazz Brasserie A small French bistro with a big reputation, Le Jazz is packed, more often than not. Having secured a table, we opted for the tabu de charcuterie starter (R$38.50). Its deep, rich terrine de campagne (a pâté-like mix of meats) and magret fumé (smoked duck breast) were instant hits, as were the rillettes (pâté), torresmo (crunchy pork fat), and the variety of meats and pickles. If we’d left at this point, all would have been tudo de bom. But on we went. Perhaps thanks to a flustered kitchen in the Friday night rush, the entrecôte (R$38.50) came sadly overcooked; and the tagine de cordeiro (lamb tagine, R$5) – well, the chef must be in love, as they say round here. Oversalted, its sublime touches were lost in translation. Possibly we were unlucky, given those superb starters, but Le Jazz left these particular diners singing les bleus. Rua dos Pinheiros 254, Pinheiros (2359 8141/lejazz.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-3.30pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$21-$43; couvert R$5.50. BARBECUE Martín Fierro If meat’s in order tonight, then this enduringly popular Argentinian restaurant may be just the ticket. There are a handful of Brazilian cuts on the menu; but aside from those, you can pretend you’re in Buenos Aires to excellent effect with the very good bife de chorizo (sirloin) and the asado de tira (beef thin ribs). The side salad is possibly a little too simple – just like in Buenos Aires, in fact – but some empanadas to start with are a good idea. Rua Aspicuelta 683, Vila Madalena (3814 6747/martinfierro.com.br). Open noon-midnight daily. Main courses R$21-$78; couvert R$4.10. MIDDLE EASTERN Pita Kebab The

owners of this local bar and eaterie may be Italian, but they make a mean kebab with their own blend of spices. Lamb and kafta kebabs are the stars of the show, served either wrapped up in pitta bread, or on their own with salad. For something lighter, go for the mini falafel balls or, for an Italian twist, grilled courgettes in raspberry vinegar. To drink, don’t miss the refreshing homemade lemonade with mint (suco de limão com hortelã) or the eclectic beer menu. Thursday and Friday nights get busy with a student crowd, packing out the leafy, glass-covered patio. Rua Francisco Leitão 282, Pinheiros (3774 1790/pitakebabbar.com.br). Open noon1am Mon-Thu; noon-2am Fri; 1pm-2am Sat; 1pm-1am Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$13-$20.90.

CONTEMPORARY Rothko Artist Diego Belda has turned his creative hand to cuisine at his restaurant Rothko, which opened in early 2011. Drawing inspiration

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IN THE AREA

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reveals soulful dictums and the story behind the restaurant, as well as a selection of dishes that pay homage to the owners’ homeland – Minas Gerais. The confit de frango com jiló caramelizado is a good pick – tender chicken served with the famously bitter fruit jiló, transformed into delightfully thick, caramelised slices. Finish up with a fork-fight over a round of doces caseiros (homemade sweets) with queijo minas (Minas Gerais cheese). Rua Padre Carvalho 139, Pinheiros (3037 7773/viladasmeninas.com). Open noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; noon3pm, 7pm-12.30am Thu-Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$60; lunch R$38. ITALIAN Vinheria Percussi Founded in 1985 by Luciano Percussi, an Italian from Liguria, Vinheria Percussi quickly became a classic. Luciano’s daughter Silvia Percussi now runs the kitchen, while her brother Lamberto oversees the salon and the excellent wine cellar. The scaloppine di pollo al limone con gnocchi di ricotta e spinaci (chicken in lemon sauce with spinach and ricotta gnocchi) and the marvellous filetto al gorgonzola (filet mignon covered in gorgonzola sauce) are standout dishes. To finish, try the wonderful classic tiramisu made with mascarpone and coffee. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 523, Pinheiros (3088 4920/ vinheriapercussi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7.30pm-1am Sat; noon4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$105; lunch R$42; couvert R$6.90-$8.10.

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Jardins PORTUGUESE Adega Santiago A cosy tavern with dishes inspired by Iberian cuisine, Adega (as it’s known to regulars) combines good food, a great atmosphere and a fine wine list. Seafood lovers should go for the polvo à lagareira (chargrilled octopus) – with a side of buttered vegetables, which makes a simple but mouth-watering duo. More expensive fish dishes, such as bacalhoada na lenha (oven-baked salt cod with potato, onion, peppers, olives and eggs) at R$135, are designed to serve two. Rua Sampaio Vidal 1072, Jardim Paulistano (3081 5211/ adegasantiago.com.br). Metrô 4, Faria Lima. Open noon-3pm, 6-11pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon12.30am Fri, Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Main courses R$38-$135; couvert R$4.90.

Food & Drink

from a number of cuisines, each dish JAPANESE Tanuki The mischief-making, is a beautiful composition of flavours shape-shifting badger creature of legend and vibrant colours. Order a selection graces both the name and symbol of of small dishes – bocadilhos – or go for this traditional Japanese joint, whose a less creative but equally tasty chef Shigeru Hirano has main course. The downsides? more recently opened Slow service, and a fair Shigueru in Itaim Bibi, few items missing from leaving Koje Yamasaki the menu. Teething in charge of Tanuki. If troubles, we hope. you can navigate the Rua Wisard 88, Vila somewhat inaccessible ro d Madalena (3032 menu, you’ll find some São Pe t this a ri a e 4295). Open 6pmreal gems, such as Merc ho crowd a o b midnight Wed-Fri, a fish version of the Join a -key favourite low noon-midnight Sat; more traditionally meaty e Bars e S noon-5pm Sun. Main fondue-style shabu-shabu courses R$25-$43. – named after the sizzling sound as the food hits the hot PERUVIAN Suri Ceviche takes oil (fish version R$155; meat version centre stage at this contemporary R$135; feeds two). It’s also a rare chance Pinheiros restaurant, with ten different to try fugu, the poisonous puffer fish, varieties on the menu. But this isn’t but check availability: ‘It’s two weeks ordinary ceviche. Here, it’s been given since it last came in.’ At the sushi bar, a thoroughly modern makeover, with tuck into the Tanuki especial (R$110), a varying degrees of success. The clasico combination of 40 pieces of sushi and with corvina (white fish), onion, lime and sashimi. Rua Jericó 287, Vila Madalena coriander is a safe bet. The chifa, with (3814 3760/tanukisushi.com.br). Metrô prawn, squid and corvina is tender and 2, Vila Madalena. Open noon-3pm, tasty. But the tierra y mar, with tuna, 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 7pmsour cream and bacon, is an unusual midnight Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main and borderline unpleasant combo. The courses R$39-$98; lunch R$26-$31; portions are generous, so going with a couvert R$3.50. group means more options to try, whilst BRAZILIAN Vila das Meninas Step solo diners can perch at the bar and through the discreet entrance to find a watch the chefs in action. Rua Mateus scattering of tables set under a large Grou 488, Pinheiros (3034 1763/suri. tree hung with lanterns, in the back yard com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; of a beautifully converted house. An 1-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main illustrated menu the size of a paperback courses R$26-$65; couvert R$10.

JAPANESE Aizomê If you can judge a place by its clientele, then chef Shinya Koike was clearly doing something right when he ran A1 – a small izakaya (Japanese bar with hot food) and longrunning favourite with the Japanese suits at the nearby Bank of Tokyo, on Avenida Paulista. Koike relocated a few blocks south when he opened Aizomê in 2007. The two-storey restaurant, in an old house in Jardins (look for the large ‘39’ on the wall as there’s no sign) serves a mix of sushi, sashimi and hot Japanese dishes. Koike is best known for rolling out ‘East meets West’ fusion sushi, adapted with Brazilian ingredients. The sushi may not match the reputation of chefs like Jun Sakamoto, but

CMY

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Food & Drink

the all-round Japanese food experience – best sampled in the tasting menu (R$155 for 5 dishes; R$180 for 6 dishes) – is one of the best in town. Alameda Fernão Cardim 39, Jardim Paulista (3251 5157/aizome. com.br). Open noon-2.30pm; 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; 6.30-11pm Sat. Prices R$12$48 for individual small dishes; lunch R$38-$100.

ITALIAN Emiliano Once you’ve sampled

Emiliano’s fresh robalo (snook) in a savoury crust with hot peppers, accompanied by sautéed tomato, aubergine and courgette, you’ll come to see why this restaurant, which goes by the same name as the hotel that houses it, is considered to have one of the best chefs in the city at its helm. If pasta appeals, try the potato-stuffed tortelli with caramelised onion in black truffle sauce, on parmesan shavings; or go for the pescada amarela (grey snapper) in salmoriglio sauce with clams and asparagus crostini. The restaurant has a lovely vertical garden that’s particularly picturesque at lunchtime, when it’s bathed in natural light. Rua Oscar Freire 384, Jardim Paulista (3068 4393/emiliano. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight

BRAZILIAN Amadeus The Masano

family’s passion for seafood has reached the second generation. Young chef Bella Masano practically grew up in Amadeus’s dining room, and then completed her studies at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris. For an unforgettable experience, go for the richly savoury moqueca da casa, a Bahian-style fish stew made with palm oil, fish and shrimp, cooked in a clay dish. A slightly lighter option is the camarão frisson no negro (flambéed shrimp with black rice). Another great option is the dessert with banana and tamarind sauce, while the chocolate ice-cream and coffee liquor will leave you longing for more. Rua Haddock Lobo 807, Jardim Paulista (3061 2859/ restauranteamadeus.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm, 6pmmidnight Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-4.30pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$58-$178; lunch R$72; couvert R$12-$17.

Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses R$43-$163; lunch R$53; couvert R$14-$15. SPANISH Eñe The Brazilian capital

of gastronomy was still aching for a signature Spanish addition as recently as 2007, when the twin brothers Sergio and Javier Torres Martinez from Barcelona stepped onto the culinary scene with this small, high-quality, Catalan-influenced restaurant. All concrete and dark wood on the outside, inside the space is sleek lines and smooth surfaces. The restaurant’s preoccupation with beauty extends to the food – the menu’s selection of fish and vibrant vegetables with bold Spanish spices are all beautifully presented. Don’t miss the pecan pie – a great example of the robust flavours the twins are famed for.

Spirited Cachaça pairing

design aesthetic and a novel location in the garden of the MIS (Museu da Imagem e do Som) have made Chez MIS an instant hit with a fashionable crowd. So if you have to wait for a table, kick things off with a cocktail by the bar – though not, perhaps, the pisco sour (R$27), which was all pisco and not enough sour. Team your drink with the sublime cheesy fried polenta sticks (R$20) and goats cheese and grape bruschetta (R$25). Once seated, the cheeseburger (R$34) is a well-proportioned, tasty hunk of ground beef that was only let down on our visit by lukewarm shoestring fries. The mozzarella-filled gnocchi (R$41) is a safe bet, deliciously rich and covered in a nutmeggy cream sauce and topped with crunchy bread crumbs. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (3467 3441/chez.com.br/chezmis). Open noon-3pm; 6pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$32-$109.

ITALIAN Girarrosto A jaw-dropping

Rogério Voltan/press image

do as the Brazilians do with a daily dose of rice and beans. A taste of traditional Brazilian cooking at Dalva e Dito may just be the most expensive rice and beans you can eat in São Paulo, but many would argue that it’s worth the cost. Chef Alex Atala, whose culinary prowess has gone global, has plucked the best of regional dishes from across the country at this sister restaurant to D.O.M. Unusual local ingredients from the Amazon to the cerrado create some really unique tastes such as the surubim, a fresh water fish served with a lemongrass sauce and jambu – a lip-tingling green herb. Choose from two types of moqueca – capixaba or the spicier baiana. To complete the experience, sit by the big kitchen window to watch the chefs at work. Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Jardim Paulista (3068 4444/ dalvaedito.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon- 3pm, 7pm-3am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$107; lunch R$55; couvert R$8-R$16.

ITALIAN Fasano Head right through the elegant lobby of the Fasano hotel to the eponymous restaurant – a grand atrium awash with black marble and dark wood in an unmistakeable, classic 1930s style. The best dishes, which don’t come cheap, include the silky, perfumed raviolini d’Anitra al profumo d’arancia (R$99) – pasta filled with duck meat and orange sauce, an inspired deconstruction influenced by the classic French canard à l’orange – and the costoletta di vitello alla Milanese (veal Milanese, R$113), a classic dish that’s been on the menu here since the distant ’90s, when the Italian chef Luciano Boseggia was at the helm.. Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista (3062 4000/fasano.com.br). Open 7.30pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$89-$270; couvert R$29. STEAKHOUSE A Figueira Rubaiyat The number of architecturally significant and gastronomically superb restaurants in São Paulo is astounding. Even so, finding gentrified country dining a block away from Rua Oscar Freire is a surprise. A huge 130-year-old fig tree dominates the dining area of A Figueira Rubaiyat, lending it an intimate, romantic air. The restaurant is famed for serving some of the best beef in the city and for catering to paulistano power couples and the financial elite. The appetiser of carpaccio di funghi in truffle oil is a must, as are the pães de queijo. A main course mainstay is the sumptuous picanha sumus – premium top sirloin. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (3087 1399/rubaiyat. com.br). Open noon-12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$74-$235; couvert R$23.50.

CONTEMPORARY Chez MIS The modern

BRAZILIAN Dalva e Dito When in Brazil,

Rua Dr. Mário Ferraz 213, Jardim Europa (3816 4333/enerestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 1pm-4pm, 8pm1am Sat. Main courses R$48-$68; lunch R$47; couvert R$15.

There’s a whole lot more to cachaça – Brazil’s sugarcane spirit – than caipirinhas, as any connoisseur will know. Bringing it beyond the boundaries of the city’s bars to the dinner table, fusion restaurant Marakuthai is serving a three-course menu, with each dish concealing a hint of cachaça, and matched with a cachaça cocktail. The starter (see photo) – goat’s cheese, plums, cachaça jam, and baru nuts on toasted bread – is served with a short, dry blend of Terra Roxa cachaça, sparkling wine, pomegranate syrup and a sprig of rosemary. R$95 for three courses and three drinks. 8 November-7 December. See listings.

R$10 million was allegedly spent on this immense Italian eatery, which opened in early 2012 in the spot formerly home to one of the city’s best-loved bars, Pandoro. After a series of disappointing early reviews, the restaurant’s fortunes have been on the up since the arrival of Italian chef Salvatore Loi, who spent 13 years at the forefront of the Fasano before his move to Girarrosto. Loi takes perfection to extremes. You’ll understand what we mean when you try the bigoli (thick strands of pasta, shaped using a special machine) with duck and juniper sauce (R$54). One bite and you’ll realise that you’re eating the same spectacular pasta you’d eat at the Fasano – but for less. Avenida Cidade Jardim 60, Jardim Europa (3062 6000/girarrosto.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sun (pizza only). Main courses R$41-R$-69; couvert R$12.50.

ITALIAN Italy Chef Paulo Barros is one of the shining stars in São Paulo’s burgeoning Italian restaurant scene, notching up numerous ‘best Italian restaurant’ badges at the popular Due Cuochi. At this, his newest venture, you’ll find some of his signature dishes like egg yolk-filled ravioline (R$38), each

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JAPANESE Jun Sakamoto Chef-in-

fashion Jun Sakamoto has been manning the sushi counter at his eponymous Jardins eatery since 2000. The small, stylish yet under-stated restaurant is well established as a favourite among the paulistano elite. Which means you’d be wise to book ahead, especially if you want to worship at the temple of Sakamoto with a seat at the counter, where the master himself prepares sushi. One of Sakamoto’s best-known dishes is the tartar de atum com foie gras (tuna tartare with foie gras, R$27). Another unexpected combination is the vieiras com sal trufado (scallops with truffle salt, R$12 per piece). Side step the almost imcomprehensible menu and ask the staff for their recommendations on

what’s good that day, or go straight for the tasting menu (R$260). Round things up with the delicious tempura de figo com sorvete de matchá (fig tempura with green tea ice-cream, R$18.50). Rua Lisboa 55, Jardim Paulista (3088 6019). Open 7pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 7pm-1am Fri-Sat. Main courses R$43.50-$63; couvert R$18. BRAZILIAN Maní Tucked away on a classy,

quiet street in Jardins, Maní manages to be contemporary and sophisticated and yet artfully unpretentious. Whether you choose a table inside or out, you’re assured of an excellent meal amid the natural, earthy ambience of one of São Paulo’s most popular and innovative restaurants. The modern cuisine is served here with flair, and chefs Daniel Redondo and Helena Rizzo deserve all the praise they’ve received for their creative, wide-ranging menu. Try their award-winning fish entrée served with tucupi and bananas; or the roast beef in a lapsang souchong crust. Reservations strongly recommended. Rua Joaquim Antunes 210, Jardim Paulistano (3062 7458/manimanioca.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Fri; 1-4pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$68; lunch R$35; couvert R$13-$15.

FUSION/ASIAN Marakuthai Marakuthai started out as a relaxed, upscale restaurant on Ilhabela before its beachside success spawned this urban sister. And though the much-praised restaurant’s name might

suggest a straight up-and-down Thai joint, the taste buds too much. Rua Joaquim in fact Indian, Moroccan and Brazilian Antunes 217, Jardim Paulistano (3081 also get a look-in on the menu with dishes 7204/merceariadoconde.com.br). Open like the khiri khiri starter – prawn balls noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noonin a cashew crust with a saké and chilli midnight Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pmsauce (R$24). The presentation is flawless, 1am Sat; 12.30-11pm Sun. Main from the green tea in tall glass jugs with courses R$39-$85; lunch R$45. mint, herbs and citrus fruits to the food, MEXICAN Obá There is a serious lack thoughtfully laid out on attractive platters: of decent Mexican food in São Paulo – no all in all, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable doubt because of the serious lack of experience. Nevertheless, we’d love to Mexicans. Restaurateur Hugo Delgado see a touch more oomph to the menu. solves both problems: he’s a living, Alameda Itu 1618, Jardim Paulista breathing chilango from (3062 7556/marakuthai.com.br). Mexico City and, though Metrô 2, Consolação. Open sometimes hampered 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; by inaccessibility to noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight certain ingredients, he Thu; 8pm-1am Fri; does a fabulous job on 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat. , u n the portion of Obá’s Main courses R$29bird me nd y rl a e menu that’s dedicated $79. The new aller dishes a to his homeland – the with smounted prices ITALIAN Mercearia do carnitas (braised disc 0pm, Conde A tumble down pork tacos), refried 7.30-8.3hu -T e u T the rabbit hole might – just beans, guacamole and might – prepare you for margaritas. The kitchen Mercearia do Conde. The ceiling also sends out an array groans under a collection of bewinged of Thai, Italian and Brazilian dishes to angels and pink, wand-bearing fairies that the tables in this colourfully converted gently rotate overhead, while the plates are Jardins home; but though pretty much gaily and wantonly mismatched. The food everything is good here, with such a gap can be good, but is occasionally patchy in the city for truly good Mexican, it only and errs a little on the conventional side. leaves us wondering ¿por qué? Rua Melo The chicken pie has long been a favourite Alves 205, Jardim Paulista (3086 4774/ of ours; but last time, pluckier, we went obarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, for duck with rice ‘old Lisbon style’, which 7pm-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pmcame with shredded duck, cooked pear 12.30am Fri; 1-4.30pm, 8pm-12.30am pieces and a dusting of garam masala Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses – good and homely, but not revving up R$39.90-$67; lunch R$21.90.

Food & Drink

carefully packed with spinach, ricotta and an entire egg yolk, alongside a large selection of pastas and risottos. Unorthodox combinations include tagliorini with prawns, artichokes and shitake mushrooms (R$51) – a generous bowl of pasta with a satisfying number of large, juicy prawns. A shiny elevator connects the three floors of the restaurant which, combined with the fierce airconditioning and charmless decor, lends it the slight air of a hotel lobby. The roof terrace, and the simple meat of fish of the day, are redeeming features. Rua Oscar Freire 450, Jardim Paulista (3168 0833/ italyrestaurante.com.br). Open noonmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$33$59; couvert R$5.90.

GO FOR

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Food & Drink

A space for Italian cuisine and culture

Open from Monday to Maonday from 12pm to 2am

original churrascarias, Rodeio was for decades a favourite with the city’s wealthy elite, the aroma of sizzling meats mingling with that of expensive perfume. Until, that is, its glamour started to go up in the smoke of newer competitors. Rodeio has – contrary to expectations – hung on in there, and regained some of its original lustre with a modernising makeover. Its recently-rising fortunes saw the opening of a second, slick branch, designed by illustrious architect Isay Weinfeld, inside the city’s luxury Shopping Iguatemi mall. Don’t miss the sliced picanha (top sirloin) and biro-biro rice studded with bacon. Rua Haddock Lobo 1498, Jardim Paulista (3474 1333/ rodeiosp.com.br). Open 11.30am-3.30pm, 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 11.30ammidnight Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun. Main courses R$80-$105; couvert R$24.50. Other location Shopping Iguatemi (See Shopping listings).

ITALIAN Primo Basílico Well-heeled

families wait patiently for tables on Sunday evenings at this popular yet relaxed spot, taking the edge off their hunger with bread stuffed with oozing buffalo cream cheese and zingy calabresa. The restaurant is buzzing most other nights too, though getting a table doesn’t pose such a problem. Three tables outside offer an alfresco option, though most of the action is inside, where you can see the pizzas sliding in and out of a huge brick oven. The traditional pizza bases are ciabatta-esque – thick and doughy – or there’s a thin crust option too. Give the Brigitte a whirl if you’re feeling daring and you’ll discover what we did: that Brie, asparagus and honey is a surprisingly good combo. Committed carnivores should go for an Obelix, whose wild-boar sausage will satisfy any self-respecting Gaul. Avenida Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1864, Jardim América (3082 8027/ primobasilico.com.br). Open 6pm12.30am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-12.30am Sun. Main courses R$48-$63.

INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down classic restaurants. It’s centrally located – a handy place for lunch if you’re on Avenida Paulista – and decorated brightly and stylishly, if simply, with all-round windows and a circular bar in the middle. Spot is an enduring Sampa favourite – so come prepared to wait,

MEDITERRANEAN Ráscal With six

Trattoria, Buffet, Wine Cellar, Bar and Whisky Club

Free transfers from the city’s main hotels

Rua Treze de Maio, 848 Bela Vista - São Paulo/SP Phone: 11 2842.9620 www.villatavola.com.br

BURGERS Ritz Ritz has a hard time determining what city it’s in, and providing you can get in, you’ll also have a hard time believing that you’re still in São Paulo, and not in Paris or the East Village. It has the look of a French bistro with mirrors and red leather banquettes; and is popular with gay folk and trust-fund bohemians. As for the food, it’s best known for its great hamburgers and delicious pastas. For an appetiser, try the bolinhos de arroz (fried rice balls), a speciality you’re not likely to find outside of São Paulo. The portions are generous, and if you’re not too hungry, feel free to share your entrée – the penne mediterraneo is a great for-two option. Although the tunes lean towards indie rock, the drinks are far from dive-bar prices (a caipirinha will set you back R$14.90). Alameda Franca 1088, Jardim Paulista (3088 6808). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3.10pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Wed; noon3.10pm, 8pm-1.30am Thu, Fri; 12.30pm1.30am Sat; 12.30pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26.60-$56.60; lunch Other location R$35.70-$45.80. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 141, Itaim Bibi (3079 2725); Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulista (2769 6752). BARBECUE Rodeio One of São Paulo’s

Critics’ choice Bargain French

Jewish Z Deli This run-of-the-mill albeit charming deli, with just a handful of tables and a self-service counter full of delicious salads, is Jewish dining at its best. Gefilte fish can be had here not just on Passover, but all year round; or for another taste of Eastern-European cuisine, try the vareniks – breaded meats and fish. The roasted chicken (Z Deli frango) and the cheese gnocchi aren’t to be missed, either. The catch is that since the food tastes better than it looks, you’re liable to accidentally overeat, and spend longer here than you expected. If you have the time and the appetite opt for the all-you-can-eat buffet (R$45, or R$39 for just salad; R$55 on Saturdays), rather than the lunch menu (three hot dishes for R$39). And while the prices may be steep, this is the closest you’ll get to Katz’s Deli outside of Manhattan. Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1350, Jardim Paulistano (3064 3058). Open noon-6pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat. Buffet R$39$55; set menu R$30-$39. ITALIAN Zucco A floor-to-ceiling glass

PRESS IMAGE

The complete and best Italian restaurant

branches throughout the city (four of them inside malls) Rascál spoils vegetarians silly with arguably the best salad bar in town. For R$55, you can get your fill of quiches, marinated vegetables, cheeses galore, breads and green salads from among the forty different items, not to mention the speciality hams and hot dishes. If the salad bar feels too much like a healthy option, the pizza corner is generous, as are the pasta and grill sections. For a delicate and colourful meal, try the ravioli Ráscal – spinach ravioli with buffalo mozzarella in a fresh tomato sauce. Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulista (3816 3546/rascal.com. br). Open noon-3.15pm, 7-10.15pm Mon-Thu; noon-3.15pm, 7-11.15pm Fri; noon-5.15pm, 7pm-11.15pm Sat; noon5.15pm, 7-10.15pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$65; buffet R$55-$65. Other locations throughout the city.

over a drink at the bar or outside on the terrace, for a table in the thick of the action, in amongst the chattering diners. On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty, though it came sadly unaccompanied – follow our lead and order some of the delicious roasted vegetables and smooth, creamy mash as a side dish. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação. Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71.

L’Aperô Candle-lit tables out under the night sky more than make up for the hit-and-miss menu – glued on the back of wine bottles – at this friendly French bistro. Le Jazz Brasserie The formula of reasonably priced bistro classics and a buzzy atmosphere has been an enduring hit, with an hour-or-so wait still par for the course at the Pinheiros original, and its newer Jardins sibling. La Tartine You can’t go wrong with a quiche and salad at this popular spot, just a stone’s throw from the bustling Baixo Augusta.

exterior gives a sneak preview of the sleek, modern interior of this Italian restaurant. Weather permitting, the windows slide right back to create an alfresco terrace backed by a vertical garden. The broad menu offers a modern take on traditional Italian cuisine: to start, tuck into the paper-thin focaccia, with rock salt and rosemary. Fresh pasta is a good choice for a main course – try the squid ink taglioni with shrimps and clams. If there’s a queue for a table, pull up a stool at the bar and sip a glass of bubbly from the comprehensive wine list, or a Zucco Martini, with strawberry, vanilla-flavoured vodka and a balsamic vinegar reduction. Rua Haddock Lobo 1416, Jardim Paulista (3897 0666/ zuccorestaurante.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-12.30am MonThu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$39-$89; lunch R$52; couvert R$12.90.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia STEAKHOUSE 348 Parilla Porteña At weekends, you’ll spot this steakhouse at least a block away thanks to the crowds milling about outside, drinking cold beers while they wait for a table. This joint is Argentinian by name and Argentinian by nature, down to the myriad authentic cuts of meat on the menu. The jury is out on whether the vacio (also known as the ‘corte especial 348’) reigns supreme over the bife de chorizo, but get a group together (each order feeds at least two) and you can decide for yourself. Team

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location Avenida São Gabriel 300 (3884 8868), Rua Gaivota 1330, Moema (5542 9561). BARGAIN

Food & Drink

your beef – which comes as bloody as you want it – with the papa tasso – crunchy fried potato slices. The pork ribs are the dish to go for as an alternative to beef, and the empanadas are said to be the best in São Paulo. Exposed roof beams, wicker chairs, rustic wooden tables and plants lend this former neighbourhood bungalow a homely, traditional feel. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 348, Vila Olímpia (3849 0348/restaurante384.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon6pm Sun. Main courses R$59.50-$100. Other location Rua Bahia 364, Higienópolis (4306 0348).

CONTEMPORARY Cantaloup The

contemporary architect Arthur Casas, the name behind restaurants Kosushi and Kaá, has transformed this former bakery into an impressive restaurant space. Step through the 10-foot-high wooden door to a glass-roofed winter garden, and then on into the dining room, where the high-ceiling, exposed beams, white-washed brick and starched white tablecloths create a sophisticated, clean, industrial look. The food, with roots in French and lo u g n â ri Italian cuisine, is given Casa T Art e Se STEAKHOUSE Baby Beef a well-presented, modern Rubaiyat The Iglesias twist, and the wine cellar, on family has over the years display in the restaurant, has mastered the art of raising cattle. 400 labels from 10 countries. Don’t Their excellent home-reared beef is leave without having coffee or you’ll served in restaurants that combine miss the chance to taste the sublime austerity with an elegant modernity, petits fours. Rua Manuel Guedes 474, and impeccable service. The branches Itaim Bibi (3078 3445/cantaloup.com. on Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Alameda Santos are both favourites for Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Fri; business meetings. To see and be seen, 7.30pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main however, park up among the beautiful courses R$39-$110; lunch R$61; couvert people under the giant fig tree of the R$9. sister restaurant, A Figueira Rubaiyat, in CONTEMPORARY Clos de Tapas Opened Jardins. International jetsetters will also in January, the kitchen at Clos de Tapas find a Rubaiyat restaurant in Madrid as carries some serious weight in the form well as Buenos Aires. It’s big business of the collective experience and acclaim – the whole portfolio was bought by an of its two chefs, Spain’s Raul Jimenez and investment fund for a whopping $59.5 the Brazilian Ligia Karazawa. The way to million in 2012. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria go here is the eight-course tasting menu Lima 2954, Itaim Bibi (3165 8888/ (R$185), which rivals anything to which rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-midnight Michelin might attach one of its coveted Mon-Thu; noon-12.30am Fri, Sat; noonstars. Give yourself up to the experience 6pm Sun. Main courses R$76-$215. Other locations Alameda Santos 86, and journey through a meal that’s studded Paraíso (3170 5100) with standouts, like the queijo coalho served with a spectrum of tastes (spicy ITALIAN Biondi Whether you go for the with grac de bode peppers, and sour simple lunch menu or the full tasting with lime foam), or carvão de bacalhau menu (surprisingly good value, at R$140 (salt cod with an almond and squid ink for 6 courses), this is glorious good coating). Along the way, your other senses Italian food. In the tasting menu, a series are tickled too in moments that include of finely crafted dishes – classic Italian the arrival of a bowl of moss, brought to cooking adapted to Brazilian ingredients life with dry ice to fill the table with the – arrive beautifully presented. We started aroma of a damp forest. Rua Domingos with a Caprese salad and ended on a trio Fernandes 548, Vila Nova Conceiçao of panna cotta, via a series of pasta, (3045 2154/closdetapas.com.br). Open seafood and meat dishes. The setting noon-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Thu; is elegant, all hushed tones, woods and noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Fri; 1-4pm, beige leather. Floor-to-ceiling windows 8pm-midnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main make for a bright, airy space during the courses R$15-$32; lunch R$48; couvert day, while in the evening, large lamps R$12. and naked lightbulbs lend an intimate MEXICAN Hecho en Mexico Few glow. On the refreshingly simple à la Mexican restaurants here in São Paulo carte menu, the rich creamy porcini are worthy of the Meh-hee-coe in their risotto is a great choice. Rua Pedroso names – but this is one of them. Hecho Alvarenga 1026, Itaim Bibi (3078 5273/ en Mexico is a simple and tasty taquería biondirestaurante.com.br). Open noonwhere you can get a good feed for under 3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7.30pmR$20. Team a cold bottle of Dos Equis 1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses with the totopos – homemade nachos R$46-$79. served with salsa or (slightly bland) VEGETARIAN Cachoeira Tropical guacamole. Or try one of the ‘Pe Efes’, Nostalgic for a college dining experience? basic midday meals that come in lucha This self-service restaurant offers great, libre wrestler-sized portions with meat, simple, vegetarian food at a set price in rice, refried beans, guacamole and an a cafeteria-style environment. Sample all optional fried egg (R$15.90-$17.90). We’ve you want, choosing between a variety of yet to scope out the territory here after salads, hot dishes and desserts, for less dark, but reckon the margarita machine than R$20 a sitting, or go for the threeand brightly-painted open courtyard at course option. The other two branches the back should make this the perfect serve fish and chicken dishes. Rua João setting for a cheap and cheerful night out. Cachoeira 275, Itaim Bibi (3167 5211/ Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 538, cachoeiratropical.com.br). Open 11amItaim Bibi (3073 0833/hechoenmexico. 3pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm Sat, Sun. com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$18-$20. Other Main courses R$15.90-17.90. BARGAIN

IN THE AREA

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Food & Drink

MIDDLE EASTERN Gibran There’s no

New menu Kaá

shortage of Middle Eastern delights in São Paulo, from humble lanchonete kibes and esfihas to some very fine dining establishments. But with a menu of fresh, healthy Lebanese and other specialities, Itaim’s Gibran, more than most, serves the sort of thing you might find in a contemporary Beirut dining room – a million miles from the heavier, oilier dishes of much diaspora cookery. Soft pillowy esfihas with cheese and basturme – an Armenian form of pastrami – and the deeply savoury mohamara – a redpepper-and-walnut dip, less spicy than the classic Turkish version, are some of the don’t-miss standouts at this bright, airy bistro. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 296, Itaim Bibi (2083 1593/ restaurantegibran.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$14-$38; lunch R$22$30.

JECLECTIC Tiger The stripes on this tiger

PERUVIAN La Mar Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently. Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu. Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce. The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth. Rua Tabapuã 1410, Itaim Bibi (3073 1213/lamarcebicheria.com). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35$60; lunch R$42. BARBECUE Montana Grill Scoring high

on celebrity credentials, Montana Grill was set up almost twenty years ago by Brazil’s most famous country singers – brothers Chitaozinho and Xororó. The first branch was in Campinas, but there are now Montana Grills in Goiania, Porto Alegre and here in Itaim Bibi. The São Paulo location is a touch soulless and lacks the glamour of some of its competitor churrascarias, with one giant dining

tadeu brunelli/PRESS IMAGE

FRENCH/ITALIAN Kaá Avenida Juscelino

Kubitschek, with its eight lanes of traffic, might be the last place you’d expect to find one of the city’s most tranquil restaurants. But behind an anonymous white wall lies a veritable Garden of Eden. Narrow and tall, the dining space at Kaá is dominated by a spectacular 8m-high and 70m-long wall covered in more than 7,000 plants native to Brazil’s Atlantic forest. Architect Arthur Casas’s aim here was to transport the diner away from the urban chaos: once inside, there’s no visual connection with the city outside. To get the full experience of rainforest elegance, a table outside must be reserved in advance. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 279, Vila Olímpia (3045 0043/ kaarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$68; lunch R$56; couvert R$13.

ITALIAN Spago At first sight, the menu at this latest venture from Zena Caffé chef Carlos Bertolazzi is startlingly uninventive: a smallish set of simple classics like spaghetti and meatballs (R$29) and chicken marsala (from R$29). But sometimes there’s comfort in the classics, which is where Bertalozzi’s kitchen shines. Spago’s spaghetti and meatballs will forever alter your perception of the dish. The meatballs are made from ground picanha (top sirloin) and doused in a tomato sauce that has been simmered for six hours, adding up to a satisfying, complex experience. The frozen banoffee pie is a transcendent bulls-eye of a dessert. And all for a fair price – something that’s not so easy to find here in São Paulo. Rua Leopoldo Couto de Magalhães 681, Itaim Bibi (3078 0796). Open noon 3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Thu, Fri; noon-midnight Sat. Main courses R$26-$34.

Two of the biggest names in Italian dining in São Paulo, chefs Paulo Barros and former Fasano restaurant grandee Salvatore Loi, have relaunched the menu at Kaá, pairing Italian and French cuisine in dishes such as steak with foie gras and a Marsala and truffle sauce (R$88), and bauletti pasta parcels stuffed with guineafowl and ricotta (R$53, see photo). The setting – with its striking jungle of plant life springing forth from the restaurant’s long, high wall – remains unchanged, we’re pleased to report. See listings. room, not dissimilar to the large family restaurants common in the São Paulo countryside. The meat and the service are impeccable, however. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 816, Itaim Bibi (3078 0999/churrascariamontanagrill.com. br). Open 11.30am-4pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Fixed price R$71 (Mon-Fri); R$77 (Sat, Sun). JAPANESE Nagayama Proudly serving some of the tenderest, freshest fish in town, the thoroughly authentic Nagayama isn’t cheap; but it’s a pure delight, from the cosy, comfortable space and the welcoming service to the virtuoso sushi and sashimi. The delicious sushi and sashimi set for two (R$124) is easily enough for three; and try, too, the exquisite baterá – it’s a pressed rice disc jewelled with chives and dotted with tiny crunches of salmon roe, topped with even crunchier tempura (R$16 for two). Brilliant. Rua Bandeira Paulista 355 and 369, Itaim Bibi (3079 7553/nagayama. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm

Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-12.30am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-12.30am Sat. Main courses R$37$72.50; lunch R$45.50; couvert R$6. Other location Rua da Consolação 3397, Jardim Paulista (3064 0110). JAPANESE Shigueru The veteran sushiman, Shigeru Hirano, who has been behind the counter at Tanuki in Vila Madalena since 2004, promises a more traditional approach to Japanese food in this clean, Zen environment. The menu changes with the seasons, so ask the staff what’s good. The bento boxes are a safe bet, but the adventurous should try the exotic house specials: uni (sea urchin), anago (eel), or foie gras (goose liver). For a mixed feast, go for the combinado that’s simply called Jô. Rua Leopoldo Couto de Magalhães Jr 275, Itaim Bibi (3079 2200/ shiguerusushi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon4pm Sun. Prices sushi set for 1 from R$33; lunch R$35-$46; couvert R$6.

belong to two distinct cultures and three different chefs: one prepares Thai dishes, while two experts, one on hot and one on cold Japanese cuisine, complete the culinary triumvirate. The result? A bestof-both-worlds dining experience. The à la carte menu offers traditional dishes like pad thai, at R$70, as well as a variety of sushi, maki and tempura. The restaurant recently started serving alcohol for the first time; and the décor is a hit, with wooden furniture and sparkling white walls that reflect Tiger’s adherence to the principles of simplicity and good taste. Rua Jacques Félix 694, Vila Nova Conceição (3045 2200/tigerrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$80; tasting menu R$65-$110; lunch R$ 45; couvert R$4.

ITALIAN Tre Bicchieri If cooking were a Shakespeare play, fish would be its Hamlet. Done right, the most difficult of the Bard’s works will slay audiences. Done wrong, and it can lapse into pomp and absurdity. Tre Bicchieri, which opened in June, serves a delicious robalo – a rich, flaky sea bass – in a light crust with perfectly crisped vegetables. For dessert, a Tre Brûlée: three pots of crème brûlée in vanilla, pistachio and orange flavours. The orange was just a touch too sweet; the pistachio crème had just the right nutty tang, and the vanilla pud was creamy perfection – emblematic of a restaurant that doesn’t need to twist food into contortions to draw a crowd; that’s swanky without being ostentatious; and that does an excellent Hamlet without unnecessary drama. Rua General Mena Barreto 765, Itaim Bibi (3885 4004/trebicchieri.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$41-$75; couvert R$9.

Ibirapuera & Moema ITALIAN Bráz We have heard it said that the pizza in São Paulo is so good, even the Italians are jealous. It’s a bold statement, but if you’re prepared to give it any credence at all, Bráz is probably a good place in which to make up your own mind, having been voted the city’s best pizzeria seven times by Veja. A typical meal, at the original Moema

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BARBECUE Costelaria Moema It’s

all about ribs at this barbecue joint and the secret to its success lies in the engineering marvel tucked away in its kitchen. The tall ovens are specially designed to roast an entire side of beef ribs for forty hours at a low temperature. Gratification comes quicker, however: the ribs are sliced up and served still smoking, in eight different cuts, including the spaguetinho and matambre. The simple but sizeable sides include fried polenta, fried plantain, rice, beans and salad. Avenida dos Imarés 758, Moema (5096 3213/costelariamoema. com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm Mon, Tue; 11.30am-11pm Wed-Sat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Fixed price R$51.90 (Mon, Tue); R$59.90 Wed-Sun.

BUFFET Prêt no MAM Hobnob with

designers, journalists, artists and fashionistas dressed to kill at this stunning architectural gem with a fantastic (if pricey) lunch buffet, set inside the small Museu de Arte Moderna in Parque do Ibirapuera. The bright and lovely modern dining room is half-moon shaped, with glass walls that afford fantastic views of the sculpture garden designed by Roberto Burle Marx. On any given day, the dishes might range from ocean-fresh salmon to mouth watering meatloaf (the restaurant boasts that the chef’s daily picks come from an archive of 1,600 international recipes). This is your best bet for quality food if you’re spending the entire day at São Paulo Fashion Week, the Art Bienal, or one of the myriad other cultural activities that take place in the park. MAM, Parque do Ibiraupera (no number), Ibirapuera (5085 1306). Open 10am-6pm TueSun. Buffet R$49-$56.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana VEGETARIAN Alfredo Despite being just

a skip and a hop from Avenida Paulista, this vegetarian lunch spot has been mostly overlooked by the lunchtime crowds – although not by Captain Sensible of the Damned, who reviewed the place for us on his visit in April 2012. The new branch of the Alfredo that has been delighting veggies for over sixty years downtown is reassuringly unchanged: pay by weight for your pick of delicious salads and hot dishes, or go fixed price for all you can eat. Happily, Alfredo do not renounce flavour along with flesh: they make the most of beans, quinoa, pasta and rice in their hot dishes and offer a selection of highly quaffable hot drinks for your post-prandial reverie, including ginger tea and dark, strong ‘coffee’ made from roasted corn. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 160, Bela Vista (3251 4070). Open 11am-3pm. Prices R$31.90 per kilo; buffet R$21.90. Other location Largo do Café 14, 2nd floor, Sé, (3104 9970).

CHINESE Chi Fu Just a quick hop

from Liberdade Metrô lies the recently renovated Chi Fu. The clientele, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date). There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephone-directorysized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best. The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap. Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am-4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN

KOREAN Cho Sun Ok Korean-food

virgins can’t go wrong at this Liberdade

local: just order the Korean barbecue. It comes with sweet beef and a huge helping of mushrooms and vegetables, cooked right there at the table (R$85), and is served with an array of side dishes including kimchi (fermented vegetables). Pure shots of Soju (R$24, 360ml bottle), Korea’s national tipple – a kind of smooth saké, distilled from cereals – are de rigueur. Thankfully for your brain cells, the evening session closes early; but Cho Sun Ok also does a weekday executive lunch (R$48) with a spreads of hot and cold dishes chosen by the chef. Avenida da Aclimação 502, Liberdade (3271 9621/3208 2116). Open noon-3pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$29$50; lunch R$48. JAPANESE Lamen Kazu Expect to find the real deal at this Japanese noodle house. The star ingredient used to be imported from Japan until Lamen Kazu’s newer sibling, Espaço Kazu, opened up over the road along with space for the noodles to be made from scratch. Whether it’s a mid-week dinner or a weekend lunch, expect to join a long-ish queue made up of hungry punters of mostly Japanese extraction. Opting for a lessis-more approach, there’s little variation on the menu. First pick your broth (miso, shoyu or salt-based shio) then add optional – and genuinely spicy – chillies, followed by one of three toppings; a generous meat-free pile of carrots, onion and cabbage, or slices of roast pork, or the traditional topping with beansprouts, wakame (seaweed) and spring onions. The accompanying gyoza are fairly unexciting. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, why not head to the Liberdade street market for dessert? Rua Tomaz Gonzaga 51, Liberdade (3277 4286/lamenkazu. com.br). Open 11am-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6pm-9pm Sun. Main courses R$19-$39; accepts only visa credit and debit cards. JAPANESE Espaço Kazu This new

Japanese deli/bistro sets out to centralise an array of Japanese specialities into one unintimidating space. It breaks down like this: the main dining space (main courses R$23-$35) is a busy, Japanesestyle cafeteria specialising in udon (noodles), yakitori (skewered chicken) and teppanyaki (iron-grilled meats and fish), as well as sushi. Upstairs, there’s Kazu Sake Emporium – a straight-outof-Shibuya sake bar boasting over 100 types of sipping sakes (R$25-$450) and Go!Go!Curry, which whips out a small menu of Japanese curries (R$26-$38), the highlight being the kanazawa curry – perfectly-breaded pork swimming in a mild, mud-hued curry sauce. The latter was authentic (the sauce is imported) and surprisingly tasty, but may seem a tad pricey for what is essentially Japanese fast food. Rua Thomaz Gonzaga 84, Liberdade (3208 6179/kazusaopaulo. com.br). Open 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6-9pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$42.

Food & Drink

joint or any of the three other locations, should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas. There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu; but standouts include the Fosca (smoked ham, mozzarella and catupiry cheese) and the four-cheese Favorita, with taleggio, pecorino, caciocavallo and gorgonzola. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com.br). Open 6.30pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 6.30pm1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-12.30am Sun. Medium pizza R$45-$55. Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090).

JAPANESE Sushi Yassu Offering a

long and varied menu of sushi, sashimi and hot dishes, Sushi Yassu offers an all-you-can-eat buffet on one side of the restaurant; but depending on how hungry you are (or how long it seems the fish has been out of the water), you may want to opt for a combo platter from the menu instead. The ambience here is nothing special, but the food is authentic and delicious. Rua Tomás Gonzaga 98, Liberdade (3209 6622/sushiyassu.com. br). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11.30am3pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-3.30pm, 6-11.30pm Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Prices sushi set for 1 R$58.

STEAKHOUSE Templo da Carne

Marcos Bassi If Brazil still had a monarchy, the late Marcos Bassi just might have been granted a knighthood for making butchery a noble craft. Bassi’s near-encyclopaedic knowledge made him synonymous with top quality meat in São

Mex themed bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families. The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheese-and-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos, accompanied by a fun, fairly lowbrow selection of cocktails. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday. Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/sisenor.com.br). Open noon-3pm; 6pm-midnight MonFri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42. Other locations Citywide.

Ricardo D’Angelo/press image

MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively Tex-

Pretty as a picture Spring is ringing in the changes to the menu at Amadeus, with colourful dishes like the Prato Pescador (R$96), featuring grilled white fish, octopus, scallop, squid and tiger prawn, and roasted onions and peppers.

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Food & Drink

Paulo – he ran courses on the subject, and sold cuts of beef and other Bassi-branded gourmet products in top supermarkets across town. The restaurant that carries his name serves the signature dishes fraldinha (flank steak), as well as bombom (a cut taken from the heart of a rump steak). Rua Treze de Maio 668, Bela Vista (3805 4284/marcosbassi.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$58-$78; couvert R$18.18.

Soup kitchen Tacacá no Tietê

VEGETARIAN Moinho de Pedra Frustrated vegetarians will be in for a pleasant surprise at Tatiana Cardoso’s elegant restaurant. The word is out about her gourmet take on healthy veggie food, and the lunchtime queues form early. Cardoso trained in a number of vegetarian restaurants in San Francisco before opening her own place, where she combines creativity with seasonal ingredients. Head straight to the counter where you can choose from one of two daily specials – served with either salad or soup for R$35 or R$45 on Saturdays – or another main course option from the blackboard. White bean stews, grilled courgette tart, and mandioquinha (sweet parsnips) gnocchi with a fresh tomato sauce are just a few of the highlights. The creamy yoghurt dessert with honey and an organic red fruit sauce is a simple delight. Rua Francisco de Morais 227, Santo Amaro (5181 0581/ moinhodepedrarestaurante.com.br). Open 8.30-11am, noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 9-11am, noon-4pm Sat. Prices set menu R$35-$45.

JAPANESE Uo Katsu Once upon a time it was a fishmongers; today, Uo Katsu is a restaurant offering delicious sashimi charged by weight, with the sushi priced by unit. One of Paraíso’s hidden gems, the place is simplicity itself, with communal tables and footstools for seats; but the fish is always fresh – and all for a very reasonable price. Leave a tip when you pay to hear them call ‘caixinha!’, at which point everyone behind the counter will thank you. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, so arrive early or be prepared to wait. Rua Manoel da Nóbrega 1180, Paraíso (3051 5855) Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Prices sashimi (per 100g) R$6-$20; sushi (per piece) BARGAIN R$1.80-$8.50.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini

The North

Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé PORTUGUESE Bacalhoeiro Tatuapé, in São Paulo’s endless Zona Leste, or East Zone, has been one of São Paulo’s fastest growing bairros in recent years, with deluxe real estate shooting up all over the place. It’s good news for gourmets, thanks to the ambitious new restaurants that just keep opening. This relaxed, elegant restaurant is one of them, and it serves a classic of Portuguese cuisine: bachalhau (salt cod). Kick things off with the octopus starter, fried in bacon fat with coarse salt, followed by the perfectly-salted bacalhau a lagareiro – salt cod with golden onion, served with garlic slices, broccoli, green olives and baked potato. For dessert, both the sweet rice powdered with cinnamon and the delicate sericaria do Alentejo – a milk-and-egg pudding – are delicious..

Iara Venanzi/PRESS IMAGE

ITALIAN Vicolo Nostro Hidden amongst

the gleaming corporate towers of Berrini, Vicolo Nostro is one of the few quality restaurants in the area that opens beyond lunchtime. The vast terracotta-coloured space, with creepers growing up the walls, is popular for power lunches and business dinners, but not exclusively so. Expect authentic Italian food: it won the Ospitalità Italiana seal of approval in 2011 for following the traditions of Italian cuisine to the letter. Start with the divine couvert of Italian breads, goat’s cheese and olives. For mains, the chef’s recommendation of conger eel with a crab crust and black rice was impressive, though the cappelletti a little over-salted. It’s a touch on the pricey side, but if you’re good for it, the charm and good food make this an excellent choice for toasting that million-dollar contract. Rua Jataituba 29, Brooklin (5561 5287/vicolonostro.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$39-$105; lunch R$38-$56; couvert R$16.

5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$10-$34.

It may be a long way from the banks of the Amazon, but the pavement outside the Brazilian restaurant Tordesilhas will just have to do as a São Paulo substitute for broadening your culinary horizons with a taste of the humble Northern dish, tacacá. Every month or so, the team at Tordesilhas sets up a stall outside the restaurant to serve the one-of-a-kind, soup-like dish, made with tucupí (a manioc root extract), lip-tingling herb jambu, dried shrimp and gloopy lumps of manioc starch. R$12$16 per bowl. 5-8pm, 14 November. See listings.

Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main courses R$58$98; lunch R$39; couvert R$17. PIZZA Castelões This classic Italian

restaurant, located in one of the city’s traditional Italian neighbourhoods, was founded in 1924, and its dusty decor and antique pictures give it an authentically nostalgic feel that many newer pizzerias try and fail to copy. The Castelões pizza, with handmade sausage and mozzarella, is recommended, as is the house margherita; but no matter which one you pick, rest assured that the dough will be light, the crust scorched and sensual, the tomato sauce packed with basil, and it’ll be topped off with cheese of impeccable quality. Rua Jairo Góis 126, Brás (3229

0542). Metrô 3, Brás. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight daily. Main courses R$39-$64; couvert R$9.

The South SPANISH Maripili Paulistanos in search of

authentic Spanish grub head straight for Maripili – a small, simple restaurant whose owner, chef and waiting staff all have Spanish roots. Try a pintxo de tortilla and follow it up with a nice cup of espresso; then close your eyes and imagine you’re in Madrid – because this potato tortilla has all the volume, texture and moisture you’d find at any good Spanish diner. Maripili also serves a very good gazpacho and rabo de toro (oxtail), cooked in red wine. Rua Alexandre Dumas 1152, Santo Amaro (5181 4422/maripili.com.br). Open noon-

ARMENIAN Garabed A brisk 15-minute march uphill from Santana Metrô, Garabed is one of the city’s better-known off-the-beaten track restaurants. Unlike in most of São Paulo’s Middle Eastern joints, the bread here is homemade; and it’s good, light and chewy. Babaganoush comes doused with toasted pine nuts and herbs, and without the usual underlying acidity, and the juicy, meaty kaftas are served with fluffy rice. Of the imaginative range of esfihas, don’t miss the tasty and surprisingly light Armenian dried-meat version. The excellent food should help soothe the trauma of the decor, which has all the timeless ambience of an Eastern European waiting room. The only visual relief comes from watching the chefs up at the counter, busy shaping dough next to rows of glistening baklava. Rua José Margarido 216, Santana (2976 2750/ casagarabed.com.br). Open noon-11pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$28.50-$58. BRAZILIAN Mocotó Serving up arguably the best Brazilian food in the city, Mocotó is a foodie’s delight. Located in the anonymous mass of higgledy-piggledy houses in the far northeastern suburbs, what it takes to eat at Mocotó is time, both in getting there and waiting for a table; so come with patience and a hearty appetite. The restaurant’s young chef, Rodrigo Oliveira, creatively updates traditional North Eastern dishes such as baião de dois (black eyed peas, rice and a rennet cheese) or carne de sol – sun-cured beef – served with a whole head of garlic and baby chillies on the side. Oliveira even makes his own pork scratchings – torresmo. To finish, don’t miss the homemade icecream studded with pieces of rapadura – a solid fudge of unrefined sugarcane juice. And a shot or two of cachaça, don’t you think? – to aid digestion, of course. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (2951 3056/mocoto.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$15-$60; couvert R$3.90-$6.90.

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Bars & Cafés Bar listings Novemberfest Coisa Boa

scattered with mismatched tables and chairs. Glowing with lights at one end is a cosy little shed with a bar inside; and up a flight of steps is a smoker’s patio which even has a few plants choking in the fumes. Rua Pedro Taques 80, Consolação (3120 5535/drosophyla.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 7pm-2am Mon-Wed; 8pm-2am Thu; 8pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$13; minimum spend R$20-$40.

How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. We visits bars anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks. For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Kabul Tucked away in a two-storey house-turned-bar on a side street just off traffic-choked Rua da Consolação, Kabul offers a mixed bag of soulful musical styles to match its mixed drinks. Patrons sit in various earth-toned parlours decorated with abstract panels and paintings by local artists, while the bartenders hustle together orders of strawberry, kiwi or pineapple caipirinhas destined for tables full of twenty-something hipsters. There’s often standingroom only for the jammin’ live samba, soul and rock shows. Rua Pedro Taques 124, Consolação (2503 2810/kabul.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 9pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices 600ml beer R$7.98; caipirinha R$14.95; cover R$10-$20.

NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Amigo Leal Germans originally popularised beer in Brazil, and this wood-panelled bar has a credible Rhine River feel. The name means ‘loyal friend’, and the businessmen who’ve been coming to relax here after a hard day’s work in the city centre for decades would no doubt agree. Quality draught beer, pastéis and German dishes like Eisbein (pigs’ knees) and Kassler (pork chops) are all on the cards. Rua Amaral Gurgel 165, República (3223 6873/amigoleal. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 4pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat; 5pmmidnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.40; caipirinha R$11. Bar Léo Dating back to the 1940s, Bar Léo is a famous old-time botequim with echoes of the time when T-shirts and unaccompanied women weren’t allowed inside bars. The petiscos (appetisers) are excellent, especially the bolinhos de bacalhau (fried cod fish balls), though they’re only served on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The area directly around the bar can be sketchy at night, so it closes very early; but for early evening drinks, the boisterous, happy atmosphere is unbeatable. Rua Aurora 100, Santa Ifigênia (3221 0247/barleo.com.br). Metrô 1, Luz. Open 11am-8.30pm Mon-Fri; 11am–4pm Sat. Prices chope R$5.10. Papo, Pinga e Petisco This informal, lively bar is right on São Paulo’s bohemian frontline – on the bustling pavement of Praça Roosevelt, alongside a handful of alternative theatre

Ricardo Camilatto/PRESS IMAGE

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

As the southern Brazilian city of Blumenau recovers from the hangover of its Oktoberfest – the 30th edition inspired by the original Bavarian beer fest – São Paulo’s craft beer bars are keeping the German party going on into November. Head to Coisa Boa for Germaninspired snacks, such as eisbein à passarinho (R$36, see photo) – cubes of smoked, boiled ham hock – with weissbier (wheat beer) on tap from the Bavarian State Brewery Weihenstephan (R$22). See listings. companies. The bar’s name means ‘chat, cachaça and snacks’. There’s a cut-out of Elvis surrounded by flashing lights outside, racks of old vinyl inside, and its big wooden tables are invariably full of loud chat, expansive gestures and oh, go on then, a saideira: the Brazilian version of one for the road. Praça Roosevelt 118, Centro (3257 4106). Metrô 3, República. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-2.30am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11. No credit cards.

Consolação & Higienópolis Drosophyla With a chaotically colourful, charming decor – a style they call ‘contemporary baroque’, but which might be better described as ‘eccentric gentleman artist’s upmarket squat’ – this discreet little bar is popular with a slightly older, more bohemian crowd. From the outside, it’s just a quiet doorway on a gloomy street. But inside, the main event is a leafy, warmly illuminated garden

Z Carniceria This converted butcher’s shop makes no attempt to hide its origins, with stuffed cow heads, a gory butcher’s mural and butcher hooks hanging from rails on the wall. They say they’re not morbid, just raw, like crazy Rua Augusta, bustling past in the dark outside. We agree. The decor gives it a delightfully perverse, alternative feel, and the place buzzes happily to match with a crowd revving up for the nearby clubs. Rua Augusta 934, Consolação (2936 0934/ zcarniceria.com.br). Open 7pm-1am Tue, Wed; 7pm-2am Thu-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$14.90; minimum spend R$25-$30 (varies by night).

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda O Catarina If the city won’t go to the beach, bring the beach to the city. That’s the creed of Florianópolis fisherman Renato Silvy Andrade, who recently opened this small boteco. With its scattering of tables outside on the pavement, and a handful inside, it’s a family affair here, and as simple and welcoming as if you were at a beach barraca (tent). Feast on the plump oysters, delivered from Floripa by plane on Tuesdays and Fridays, and served fresh (R$27 for half a dozen), with lime. Team them with an artisanal cachaça (R$3), followed by a plate of heavenly, crunchy fried sardines (R$15 for four) or a casquinha de siri – stuffed crab shell (R$12). Rua Ministro Ferreira Alves 131, Perdizes (2369 5657). Open 4pm-1am Tue-Fri; 1.30pm-1am Sat; 1.30pmmidnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$16.

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Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bow-tied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel. But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon. Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent red-and-black bar with some of the best cocktails in town. Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (3815 1364/barastor.com.br/subastor.com. br). Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-2am Tue, Wed; 6pm-3am Thu; noon-3am Fri, Sat, noon-6pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50. Bar do Biu You could easily miss this low-key boteco, unless it’s a Saturday afternoon, when crowds spill out the door. Quench your thirst here after a trip to the Benedito Calixto market, or a nose around Choque Cultural, just a few steps away. Be prepared to wait for a table outside, or head inside to grab a table in a space adorned with football team strips. Don’t miss the famed baião de dois (from R$28) – a north-eastern buttery rice dish studded with jerky. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 776, Pinheiros (3081 6739/bardobiu.com. br). Open 11am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$10. Finnegan’s Pub Named after the Irish

genius James Joyce’s notoriously difficult novel Finnegan’s Wake, this is perhaps the most traditional and authentic Irish bar in the city, and a cosy spot to while away a few hours in the company of some well-poured pints. Regular rock bands and a darts board keep punters entertained, or for a more cerebral evening join in the annual ‘Bloomsday’ event on 16 June to commemorate the life of James Joyce by reading sections of his last novel Ulysses. Rua Cristiano Viana 358, Pinheiros (3062 3232/finnegans.com.br). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Prices Guinness pint R$18; chope R$4.80; caipirinha R$ 12; cover R$8-R$10. Genial The tiled floors, the old-fashioned charm and the good-natured bustle of this classic Vila Madalena choperia make it a good place to watch a football game on a Sunday afternoon, or to tuck into a plate of pasta late on a Tuesday night. It also has a pleasant patio out front and a games room with a pool table. Rua Girassol 374, Vila Madalena (3812 7442/ bargenial.com.br). Open 5pm-3am MonSat; noon-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50. Jacaré Grill Wind your way to the entrance of this watering-hole through a row of Harleys, and through throngs of locals and bikers, beers in hand, waiting patiently for an hour or more for a table on sunny weekend afternoons. It’s all about the meat here, which comes in biker-sized portions. Don’t miss the grilled palm-heart or the morcilla (blood sausage), followed by any of the six of more flavours of linguiça (sausage),

served in hunks with chilli jam. Settle in on the patio until the sun goes down. Rua Harmonia 317, Vila Madalena (3816 0400/jacaregrill.com.br). Open noon-2am Tue-Fri; noon-11pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$7.60; caipirinha R$13.

friendly service, and is being welcomed back by the locals looking for respite from the neighbourhood’s multitude of livelier, more jostling bars. A striking black-and-white mural of the city skyline covers an entire wall of the unpretentious interior – see if you can spot the Copan and the Viaduto do Chá. Settle at a window seat and order one of the unusual caipirinhas (the lime, lemon and lima da persia slipped down well) and some home-cooked comfort food: the spicy escondidinho (beef pie topped with manioc purée) and the tender fried tongue are both good choices. Rua Purpurina 370, Vila Madalena (3032 1617). Open 7pm-midnight; 7pm-3am Tue-Fri; 1pm-3am Sat. Prices chope R$5.10; caipirinha R$12.

Melograno In this oasis of calm in the midst of the Vila Madalena chaos, you can find a comprehensive menu of beers from around the world and, if you’re lucky, settle at a table in the leafy garden at the back. Melograno is a discreetly stylish little bar; and the food’s not bad, either, covering Brazilian bar snacks, paninis and comforting classics like fish and chips, served wedged into a pint glass. The beer menu was relaunched in 2012 with a smaller but still impressive selection of 130 brews, some of which are grouped into setprice tasting menus. Rua Aspicuelta 436, Vila Madalena (3031 2921/melograno. com.br). Open 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 6pm-1am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$7; caipirinha R$18.

Vianna Bar Looking to escape the crowds after an afternoon at the nearby Benedito Calixto Saturday market? Stop by Vianna for food ranging from traditional pastas to Greek spanakopita (R$21.90) and Lebanese kafta kebab (R$26.90), as well as attentive service. And if the weather’s good, linger on into the early evening, where the sought-after tables outside under the awning fill up quickly with those out to enjoy a Brahma or a fruity caipirinha. Rua Cristiano Viana 315, Pinheiros (3082 8228). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$3; caipirinha R$11.90.

Mercearia São Pedro Straightforward and buzzing, this boteco is something of a city institution, doubling up as a bookshop and video rental joint, with shelves stacked with old VHS tapes, dust-covered books and erotic manga comics. Head here for the cheap buffet lunch (R$16-$17.50), though in the evenings expect slow service and to wait at least an hour for a table. For more immediate gratification, squeeze through the groups of media and artsy types gathered outside and order a beer at the bar inside, where you get the sense that things can’t have changed much since it opened more than forty years ago. Rua Rodésia 34, Vila Madalena (3815 7200/ merceariasaopedro.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 11am-1am Mon-Sat; 1-6pm Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$12. Pé de Manga So the clientele here can be a little – how shall we put this? – hoity toity. It’s worth it for the greenery, the mango trees, the pond and the waterfall. Not to mention the celebrity-themed sandwiches, the mini-acarajé appetisers, and the mixed-fruit caipiroskas (try the lychee, mango and passion fruit), which stray happily beyond the standard bar-style fare. Rua Arapiraca 152, Vila Madalena (3032 6068/www.pedemanga. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.40; caipirinha R$10. Posto 6 Smack bang on the busiest crossroads in Vila Madalena is this grand old dame of choperias, probably the best of the bars that crowd this buzzing corner. The walls are covered with caricatures of famous personalities and photos of the 1960s, and the name is a homage to the eponymous lifeguard post and associated hangout spot on Ipanema beach. Pair your drinks with some of the best fried mandioca (fried yucca) in town, and dream of Rio. Rua Aspicuelta 644, Vila Madalena (3812 4342/posto6.com). Open 6pm-1am Mon-Fri; 2pm-3am Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.90-R$6.60; caipirinha R$17. Sabiá Reopened in May 2012 after a couple of years out of action, strippeddown Sabiá ticks all the boxes when it comes to good food and drink and

Critics’ choice Outdoor drinks

PRESS IMAGE

Food & Drink

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

Drosophyla Cosy up to bohemian types in this tucked-away little bar off Rua da Consoloção. A large tree-covered garden out back is the perfect spot for a cocktail on a balmy evening. Mercearia São Roque Booze a sunny day away at this outdoor drinking destination, where high prices and lightning-quick waiters make for a dangerous combination. Pé de Manga Sit in the shade of the tall mango trees at one of the city’s biggest bar gardens. Warm up the night here before getting intimate in Sub Astor (see listings), over the road.

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At Nine Or should that be At Nineties? Because pleasant as this cocktail bar is, with its leather-and-wood interior, black and white Marilyn Monroe photos and designer chillout beats pulsating politely – and a little too loudly – out of the sound system, it does feel like you’ve stepped into a designer hotel bar around 1999. It’s all about the cocktails here, and the Strawberry Pepper (R$31) comes recommended, though you might not be able to find it without one of the little torches they give customers to read the menus, so dark is it back in 1999. Rua da Consolação 2893, Jardim Paulista (3061 3933/atnine.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7pm-late Mon-Fri; 8pm-late Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$23; minimum spend R$10-$50. Bar da Dida Candle-lit by moonlight, this ace little bar on the edge of Jardins doesn’t get going till the hairdressers’ next door winds down – that’s because the sought-after, humble plastic tables are set out on the salon’s parking spaces. Huge caipirinhas and a buzzing atmosphere make this simple, friendly spot one of our absolute faves. Mill about and wait for a table if necessary, or give up and retire to Bar Balcão, a short walk away. Rua Doutor Melo Alves 98, Jardim Paulista (3088 7177/bardadida.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6.30pm-1am Tue-Sat; 5.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$14. Baretto Low-lit and elegant, with comfy leather chairs and shiny wooden tables, Baretto is as chic as the hotel in which it’s housed. Everything about it, from the spot-on service to the well-curated roster of musicians who keep the MPB, jazz and bossa nova flowing, screams Fasano – the hotel and the family who, with half a century of practice, have become arguably the finest hoteliers and restaurateurs in Brazil. Order a whiskey or a martini and soak up the atmosphere. Rua Vittório Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista (3896 4000/ fasano.com.br). Open 7pm-3am Mon-Fri; 8pm-3am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$21; caipirinha R$26; cover R$37. Bar Numero This slick bar is in the uptown, top-ranking category, no doubt whatsoever. The dramatic interior is emblematic of its architect Isay Weinfeld’s virtuoso touch, as is Número’s mysterious facade, where a set of monolithic numbers in relief on the wall, like the enigmatically placed contents of a typesetter’s box, is the only sign the bar needs. Rua da Consolação 3585, Jardim Paulista (3061 3995/barnumero.com.br). Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$28; mimimum spend R$100$200. Mercearia São Roque This neighbourhood bar-cum-eaterie, with a sister bar at the Jockey Club, and an even newer sibling, the Mercearia Grill (Rua Jorge Coelho 162, Itaim Bibi), may be hidden away down a leafy residential street, but it’s by no means a secret, filling out most nights of the week with a smart professional crowd. The conversation, which flits between fun and fund management, reaches its peak on warm evenings when gangs of well-groomed guys and gals vie for tables outside. A comprehensive menu includes everything

from nibbles, salads and sandwiches to full hot meals. Rua Amauri 35, Jardim Europa (3085 6647/merceariasaoroque.com.br). Open noon-midnight daily. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$17. Noh On first impressions, Noh is exactly what you might imagine an upmarket bar in an expensive city to be – classy, low-lit and peopled by attractive punters clutching sophisticated drinks. But as the evening wears on and the covers band starts up, the bar’s true colours came shining through – more upscale Cheers than high-flying Gordon Gecko hangout. The decent, at times ambitious cocktail menu never quite hits the high notes the bar is going for – molecular flourishes like the Fresh Hot (R$23), a grape martini accompanied by a strawberry injected with chilli, are passable rather than revelatory. And the food – an international roll call of snacks from mini burgers to batatas bravas – was tasty, but nothing to write home about. Rua Bela Cintra 1709, Jardim Paulista (2609 3673/nohbar.com.br). Open 6-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 7pm-1.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; caipirinha R$18, cover R$20-R$70.

Food & Drink

Jardins

Imagine somewhere arretado!

Squat The squatters in this twostorey hangout tend to be trendy twentysomethings who set up camp for parties and pre-club warm-up drinks. The dim lighting creates an intimate atmosphere though be warned, the place gets packed out from Thursdays to Saturdays when DJs – spinning anything from rock to Latino tunes – liven up the crowd. Flirt your socks off downstairs or bag a table upstairs in the mezzanine where, with the volume turned down a notch, conversation is more audible. Alameda Itu 1548, Jardim Paulista (3081 4317/barsquat.com.br). Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$16; minimum spend R$25$60. The View There was no pussyfooting about when it came to naming this 30thfloor penthouse bar. Let’s sell it like it is, they decided: it’s an upmarket hotel-style bar with floor-to-ceiling windows and a terrace that’s perfectly placed for seeing the city by night. But that view doesn’t come cheap: there’s a cover charge and only a few wines are less than R$100 a bottle. The better bets are the wellmade cocktails, with the kir royales and margaritas particularly recommended. Transamerica International Plaza, Alameda Santos 981, Jardim Paulista (3266 3692/theviewbar.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP or Brigadeiro. Open 6pm-midnight Mon; 6pm-2am Tue-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$18; cover R$22 (after 9pm). Yellow K This dark and dingy bar is an anomaly in this otherwise exclusive part of Jardins, but it’s a welcome pitstop nonetheless when everywhere else is shut and you’re still raring to go. And – bonus! – it’s a karaoke bar. Go with a group and be ready to sing your heart out with a young and eclectic crowd ranging from wannabe Lady Gagas to try-hard Tom Jobims. Alameda Lorena 514, Jardim Paulista (3884 2151/yellowk.com.br). Open 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 7pm4am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$20. No credit cards.

Main courses, drinks and brazilian appetizers.

Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque, 471- Vila Madalena Reservations: (11) 3813-6814 | facebook/cantomadalena October 2013 timeout.com/sao-paulo 35

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Food & Drink

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Bardot ‘Eat, drink, flirt’ is the mantracum-slogan of this hangout for the wellheeled: an extensive (and expensive) menu deal with the first two, whilst a DJ keeps the beautiful people grooving decoratively, with mirrors dotting the walls and ceilings to make it easy to survey the talent. Glam it up with a martini, a champagne cocktail or the ‘Brigitte,’ a cocktail with raspberry vodka, Chambord raspberry liqueur and cranberry juice. Sunday afternoon sessions (with live music and a cover charge of R$20-$40) are a big hit with a young crowd. Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 260, Itaim Bibi (3071 2859/botecobardot.com.br). Open 5pm-late Mon-Fri; noon-late Sat; 2pm-late Sun.Prices chope R$5-$5.50; caipirinha R$16-$18, cover R$0-40.

might call an Irish pub with a Brazilian twist. Chope and caipirinhas are served alongside pints of Guinness, and an eclectic menu covers options like pizza, baked potato and Thai chicken. Most nights are set to the sound of a live band followed by DJ, making this a great place for an impromptu boogie. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 178, Vila Olímpia (3044 4149/dublin.com.br). Open 6pm-late, Tue-Fri; 8pm-late Sat. Prices pint of beer R$13; caipirinha R$14.50; cover R$5-R$60.

Eu Tu Eles Bang, smack in the middle of one of São Paulo’s proliferating financial centres, this spacious bar is a popular happy-hour hangout. The fauxrustic decor, with naked light bulbs and adobe mud walls, may seem slightly incongruous with the executive crowd, but the combination of Bar do Arnesto With good beers (including its high ceilings and a Serramalte and Quilmes), multicoloured tiled floor, tasty bites – try the Arnesto is modelled on a tapioca parcels with ’60s samba theme, with gorgonzola (R$19.90) photographs of samba – and handy location t legends on the walls is a winning one. Rubaiyared f e e B and live bands kicking Sunday afternoon’s Baby enses-spa p x off at about 8.30pm live pop-rock music A no-e t marathon. a e t m most nights of the week. draws a good-looking, ting Ou See Ea A young crowd packs flirtatious crowd. Anyone in after work; but despite who has been in Salvador the world-beating selection of for more than a nanosecond over 500 types of cachaça, Bohemia will recognise the coloured strips of remains the drink of choice for most. material hanging from the ceiling, from the Rua Ministro Jesuino Cardoso 207, Vila Nosso Senhor do Bomfim church. Avenida Olímpia (3848 9432/ bardoarnesto.com. Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2902, Itaim Bibi br). Open 5pm-late Tue-Fri; 1pm-late Sat; (3071 4535/eutuelesbar.com.br). Open 4pm-late Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$8.50; 6pm-1.30am Tue-Fri; 4pm-1am Sat, Sun. caipirinha R$15.50; cover R$5-$10. Prices chope R$7.70; caipirinha R$19.90; cover R$0-$40. Botequim do Hugo This charming, Na Mata Café Blending cocktail bar, homely bar is in stark contrast to the restaurant and live music hotspot, Na relentlessly upmarket restaurants and Mata Café serves a constituency of bars of Itaim, especially if there’s no room animated professionals in suits, and social in the rustic yard and you have to sit in butterflies in figure-hugging clothes and the back room with the beer crates, the heels. Airy electronica accompanies the fish tanks, and the deep freeze. It’s the late cocktail hour, with exotic grape-andBrazilian equivalent of an English country key-lime caipirinhas and Red Bull party pub, except that the beer is cold, and the combos for any gang of friends in need buracos quentes (minced meat and cheeseof an extra pick-me-up. The not-verystuffed rolls) are excellent. Don’t dilly-dally well-appointed dining area – rectangular, on the way, because it closes early. Rua with rows of tables on two levels running Pedroso Alvarenga 1014, Itaim Bibi (3079 parallel to the bar – does have comfy, 6090/botequimdohugo.com.br). Open plush seating, perfect for a satisfying 4-10pm Mon-Fri. Prices 600ml beer R$6; dish of duck breast in wine sauce, or a caipirinha R$8. less pretentious cheeseburger. Stay on Coisa Boa This glass-walled bar for the rotating musical acts – from pop dedicated to interesting ales comprises a to rock, dance and MPB – that perform wooden deck on the street, a main bar and on weeknights, especially if the Stevie a quieter mezzanine. But the best table in Wonder tribute band is on. Rua da Mata the house is the largest one – a long, low 70, Itaim Bibi (3079 0300/namata.com. communal table (technically the waiting br). Open noon-3.30pm Mon; noonarea) beside the supermarket-style chiller 3.30pm, 7.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices cabinet from where you can survey an chope R$9; caipirinha R$13.90; cover impressive range of more than 200 brews R$30-$50. from around the world. Help yourself to a bottle of pale ale, weissbier or porter, or ask the friendly ‘beer sommelier’ for Ibirapuera & Moema help navigating the selection. To soak Bar Ao Vivo This charming little up the suds, we sampled the picadinho nightspot is somewhere between dark jazz with a brie sauce (R$35) – a (not quite hot bar and cheerful little pub, and as its name enough) mound of beef strips sitting on – which roughly translates as Live Music a cheesey sauce with bread for mopping. Bar – suggests, it’s a good place to catch Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 909, Itaim Bibi musicians doing their thing. And those (3073 0773). Open 5pm-midnight Tuecan include respected Brazilian performers Fri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Prices like bossa nova veterans Zimba Trio. small bottle beer R$10.90-$159.90, For drinks, try the chef’s martini, made caipirinha R$19. with premium vodka, Cointreau and Blue Dublin With its classic dark wood and Curaçao. Rua Inhambu 229, Moema dim lights aesthetic, Dublin is what you (5052 0072/aovivomusic.com.br). Open

IN THE AREA

CMY

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Bar do Batista Great food and music are the soul of this Moema boteco, where owner Batista describes the clientele as ‘friends not customers’. The original owners were the estranged parents of MPB queen Elis Regina. She never set foot in the bar but today, many musicians still while away the afternoons here. ‘Our food is nothing elaborate but it’s well made’ says the owner. And we can testify to that. Don’t miss the prawn pastéis and bolinhos de bacalhau (fried cod balls). Avenida Ceci 868, Moema (5055 1435). Open 7am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am6pm Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4; caipirinha R$6. Bottega Paradiso After working up a thirst in Parque do Ibirapuera, you can’t go wrong with the Italian eats and cold beer at Bottega Paradiso. Just a five-minute walk beyond the park’s portão (gate) 9, Bottega Paradiso is, like its owner, part Brazilian, part-Italian. Chefs Luciano Moreira and Erivaldo Alcântara do specials at the weekend, but the everyday petiscos (snacks) are where it’s really at. Try the elaborate crostini ai fichi – grilled figs drizzled with honey, balsamic vinegar, melting Camembert cheese, Parma ham and rocket, on bread (R$23.10). Classic Italian rice balls – arancini – are a delight, too. And if the sun is shining, pull up a pew under the striped beige awning of the outdoor terrace. Rua Pirapora 218, Ibirapuera (3052 1473/bottegaparadiso.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight MonFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Bar da Vila The attentive staff will have a beer in your hand before you sit down at this unpretentious joint. Join a more mature crowd unwinding after work, and grab a plate of bolinhos de arroz (rice balls stuffed with cheese), a beer or one of a good selection of whiskies. Live music is the soundtrack most nights of the week, except on Wednesdays, when football takes centre stage. Rua Joaquim Távora 1322, Vila Mariana (5539 4887/ bardavila.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$5. The Blue Pub Set just round the back of the Maksoud Plaza hotel, The Blue Pub is a good place for after-work drinks on a Friday. The main upstairs bar has the feel of an old pub that’s been given a brush-up; while in the low-lit downstairs, things are cosier, with a classic pub bar. The bar has an array of good imported bottled beer, and Heineken, Newcastle Brown and Guinness on tap – plus spicy vegetable pasties. It’s not, however, blue at all – it’s more of a mousy, steely grey. How very British. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 384, Bela Vista (3284 8338/thebluepub. com.br). Open 4pm-2am Mon-Wed; 4pm3am Thu-Sat; 3pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$11; caipirinha R$16; minimum spend R$15-$30. Choperia Liberdade A gloriously kitsch and raucous atmosphere prevails

at this karaoke hangout in the heart of São Paulo’s Japanese district. The bar also has a big back room full of pool tables, which tends to fill up atmospherically with smoke from the grill. The food isn’t amazing, the dancefloor is more of an ad-hoc space cleared in the throng; and the karaoke singers tend to be more miss than hit; but it’s great for a messy, drunken night out. At weekends, it’s packed, and note that you’ll need to get your name down early if you want your three minutes of fame. Rua da Glória 523, Liberdade (3207 8783). Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 7pm-5am Tue-Thu; 7pm6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-5am Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$0-$10.

Food & Drink

7pm-2am Mon-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$10-$40.

Pacha Ynti Bar Salsa! Merengue! Mambo! They’re doing all that and the cha-cha-cha (possibly) here at Pacha Ynti, a cosy, low-lit Latin dancehall. Step through the doors and dance your corazón out; or simply park up on one of the rows of round tables with a mojito, and watch the smart-stepping duos kick up a storm. Rua 13 de Maio 192, Bela Vista (3257 9556/pachaynti.com.br). Open 10pm-4am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.90; caipirinha R$12-$18; cover R$12-$20.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo. References to his work pepper the bar, from caricatures lining the walls to excerpts from his books on napkins, and even in the menu too, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book. Find savoury snacks like the delicious battered brie with chilli jam (R$30) on the menu under ‘piriris’ – a word of Veríssimo’s own invention, meaning little bites to eat. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar.com. br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am-2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

The North Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city in northern suburb Freguesia do Ó is a São Paulo mecca for chicken and beer. Go early on a sunny afternoon and bag a table outside on the square overlooking the church. Kick things off with the infamous chicken and catupiry coxinha. Beer lovers should try one of the beer-tasting menus, which meander through Brazilian, British and even rare Trappist beers. Each one is served at the right temperature and in the correct shape of glass. Consider lining your stomach first with a frango completo – a spit-roast chicken served with polenta, farofa and salad. Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (3932 4818/frangobar.com.br) Open 11am-midnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.60; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

The hot list – cafés How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice-cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

Italian import Brera panini

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. NEW means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

CAFÉ Café No Vidro Dedicated to

doing it the old fashioned way, Aldo de Rosa’s downtown establishment is all about filter coffee. With Brazil’s growing taste for espresso, de Rosa opened this no-frills café as a place in which to preserve the traditional filter coffee method. His sister-in-law Rossana Loureiro is in charge of the brewing – she only makes two litres of coffee at a time. With each new batch, she rings a brass bell to let passersby know that the fresh coffee is served. Rua Sete de Abril 111, República (3129 8523). Open 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri. Prices filter coffee R$1.50; sandwiches R$4.50-$6.50.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros CAFÉ Gourmet Tea Company You’ll be greeted by a striking array of brightly coloured tins of tea behind the counter at this emporium-cum-tea-house. Park up at one of the few wooden tables to take part in a modern take on a tea ceremony. It involves a stopwatch and a quick-release teapot-and-cup-in-one contraption, and the result is – apparently – the perfect infusion. Rua Matheus Grou 89, Pinheiros (2936 4814/thegourmettea.com.br). Open 10am-9pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.40; tea R$4.90; lunch R$19.70$24.70. CAFÉ Sofá Café A charming newcomer in Pinheiros, this funky two-storey café is all mis-matched furniture and bright colours. Tucked just off busy Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, it’s a pleasant oasis of calm in which to sink in to a sofa or – if the sun is shining – sit out in the narrow but leafy terrace out back. To eat? The menu covers light morning choices like yogurt with granola and honey, or the vitamina de café – a breakfast smoothie

JUICE BAR Madureira Sucos In this bright and breezy spot, where the service is as cheery as the pink-and-green tiles that deck the walls, a seat at the counter for açaí or coffee makes the ideal pitstop. The upstairs tables get packed out at lunchtime, when the huge portions of veggie torta – thick slices of cheesey quiche – make for an excellent choice. Choose a salad to go with it for best results. Rua João Cachoeira 217, Itaim Bibi (3078 7367/madureirasucos.com. br). Open 8am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am10pm Sat-Sun. Prices cafezinho R$2.90; sandwiches R$10.95-$19.95.

Ibirapuera & Moema Greg Salibian/PRESS IMAGE

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

The humble sandwich has yet to have its golden moment in São Paulo. But that might just be changing. A few blocks from the gourmet Z Deli Sanduíches, the recently opened Brera – Il Panino Italiano boasts Italian credentials, from its owners, who hail from Milan, to the ingredients – think parma ham, bresaola and taleggio cheese – that are packed into its panini and paminis (in diminutive sizes). It’s more restaurant than upmarket take-out, so sit in and team your panino with a glass of wine, coffee and a dessert. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 1068, Jardim Paulista (3804 7755). Open noon-midnight daily. Prices cafezinho R$4.50; panini R$19.90-$29.90; paminis R$9.50-$15.50.

with banana, yogurt, honey, cinnamon and coffee. Rua Bianchi Bertoldi 130, Pinheiros (3034 5830/sofacafe.com.br). Open 7.30am-6pm Mon-Wed; 7.30am9.30pm Thu, Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$4.50-$6.50.

2573/baciodilatte.com). Open noon10pm Mon-Wed; noon-11pm Thu-Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4; ice-cream R$8-$12. CAFÉ Santo Grão This elegant temple

to the coffee bean on chic Rua Oscar Freire has some of the best java in town, and is a great people-watching outpost. Jardins The acoustics in the front area can make ICE CREAM Bacio di Latte Join conversation tricky; head to the the queues waiting to savour back for best results. Rua Oscar the incredible ice-cream at Freire 413, Jardim Paulista this chic part-Scottish(3082 9969/santograo.com. owned gelataria on Rua br). Open 9am-1am Mon; a Oscar Freire. The gelato new Vil . 8am-1am Tue-Thu; 8amt h g ri b ch machines, ice-cream 2am Fri, Sat; 8am-midnight The na bran cabinets and even the Sun. Prices cafezinho R$5; Madale armonia H a u R spatulas, were all imported sandwiches R$11.90-$18.90. 337 Other location Rua from Italy, but the ice-cream Jerônimo da Veiga 179, Itaim Bibi is made right here. Rua (3071 3169). Oscar Freire 136, Jardim Paulista (3662

GO FOR

CAFÉ Pain et Chocolat This is the place for a blowout weekend breakfast (R$32.90), with everything from cakes, breads, fruits and cheeses to eggs and crêpes. Amongst the treats on the menu are the Maria Fernanda (R$8.90) – chocolate mousse with banana crème brûlée. Rua Canário 1301, Moema (5094 0550/painetchocolat.com.br). Open 11am-10pm Tue-Fri; 8.30am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$16.50-$19.90.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana BAKERY Itiriki This bakery in Liberdade

is packed with more than 500 varieties of Asian, European and Brazilian treats. Try Japanese specialities like the melonpan (R$4.20) – bread with a touch of vanilla essence and buttery peel, or the ichigo daifuku (R$3.90), made with strawberries, a layer of rice and bean paste. Or play it safe with a chocolate heart with brigadeiro filling. Rua dos Estudantes 24, Liberdade (3277 4939/bakeryitiriki.com). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 8am-7pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.90; sandwiches R$3.50.

Santo Amaro & Campo Belo café Il Barista Set up by Minas Gerais

native Gelma Franco, this café was one of the city’s gourmet café pioneers when it opened in 2003. Their full-bodied espresso competes with other drinks such as the freddo limone (R$13), an iced cappuccino with lime-flavoured ice cream. For filter coffee fans, the breakfast (R$5.30), served until 10am, is a good combo, with cake and a baguette or panini. Rua Verbo Divino 1385, Santo Amaro (5181 1671/ilbarista.com. br). Open 8am-8pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$4; sandwiches R$8.80$14. Other locations Alameda Lorena 1731, Jardim Paulista; Rua Mário Ferraz 414, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Morumbi (see Shopping listings).

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Out & About This month in São Paulo

BILL PHELPS/press image

Art & Museums 40 Shopping & Style 44 Film 45 Gay & Lesbian 49 Music & Nightlife 50 Football & World Cup 2014 54

Luxury goods ‘Chanel’ by Bill Phelps, one of the works available at the Feira Parte art fair

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Art & Museums Living on video

One of Latin America’s pre-eminent contemporary art festivals is coming of age this year. The 18th edition of the biannual Videobrasil festival – or to give it its full title, the 18º Festival de Arte Contemporânea Sesc_Videobrasil – kicks up its heels with all the verve of a feisty newcomer when it gets underway on 6 November, thirty years since its first edition in 1983. What started as a festival dedicated solely to video art has evolved to include different electronic art forms, and now embraces contemporary art in all its guises although, perhaps not surprisingly, a majority of works remain video-centric. This year, the festival, which takes place at SESC Pompeia and CineSESC and also includes a full schedule of discussions and lectures, includes the long-running art competition ‘Panoramas do Sul’ (‘Southern Panoramas’) plus a marathon 20-hour video retrospective, ‘30 Anos’ (‘30 Years’). Festival founder Solange Farkas and a her curatorial team whittled down a submission list of more than 2,000 pieces to the works of 94 artists from 32 countries for the Southern Panoramas exhibition. A five-

Sebastian Diaz/press image

With 18 editions under its belt, the Videobrasil festival of contemporary art comes of age. Grace Fan tunes in

High definition view An observer watches the 2012 video work ‘Insight’ by the artist Sebastian Diaz Morales

Jeanno Gaussi/press image

Linger a while, and out of the rich river of video flotsam that emerges, masterpieces and historical gems alike will surface

Collage Jeanno Gaussi’s ‘Ordinary Heroes’ from his Kabul Fragments series

member international jury panel will award prizes at the end of the first week of the festival, though all works will remain on show until the event ends, on 2 February 2014. Although prominent new-media artists such as Brazil’s Lucas Bambozzi, Argentina’s Sebastian Diaz Morales, and Lebanon’s Akram Zaatari have all made the cut this year, there is a refreshing focus on younger, up-and-coming artists, including rising Brazilian stars Pedro Motta,

whose main medium is photography, Marcellvs L., best known for his video and sound installations, and the Peruvian video artist Maya Watanabe, with nuanced, provocative works from all three. The themes of the works span a plethora of contemporary concerns: the devastation of war in Mali; marginalised Christian Palestinian families in Israel; the ecstatic elation of dancers in a club. Lovers of the sublime may gravitate towards

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Lucas Bambozzi/press image

Art & Museums

Fluid footage Lucas Bambozzi’s video ‘WYSIWYG’, filmed in Utrecht

under a day to watch in its entirety. Linger a while, and out of the rich river of video flotsam that emerges, masterpieces and obscure historical gems alike will surface. Accompanied by a soundtrack created by the Brazilian audio art collective O Grivo, this is an exuberant patchwork of interviews and works by art world luminaries such as Nam June Paik, Marina Abramovic, and the star of 2011’s festival, the Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson, as well as British filmmakers Derek Jarman and Peter Greenaway. Rubbing shoulders with them on screen are works by celebrated Brazilian counterparts Eder Santos, Cao Guimarães, Tunga, Tadeu Jungle and Fernando Meirelles (of City of God and The Constant Gardener fame), all on screen, all immortalised in video, and speaking polyphonically on over 200 monitors. The 18th Festival de Arte Contemporânea Sesc_ Videobrasil runs from 6 Nov-2 Feb 2014, at CineSESC (see Film listings) and SESC Pompeia, Rua Clélia 93, Pompeia (3871 7700/ sescsp.org.br). FREE

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Chilean artist Gianfranco Foschino’s breathtaking Fluxus, a silent, three-metre video sculpture showing a glacial waterfall in Chile, which doubles as an environmental protest at the Chilean government’s ongoing support of hydroelectric projects. In a similar vein, Argentina’s Charly Nijensohn films a tiny band of travellers braving the magnificent, desolate peaks of Patagonia’s ice fields in El exodo de los olvidados (The exodus of the forgotten), while Pakistan’s Basir Mahmood steers into more personal territory with his video My Father, focusing on an elderly man trying and failing to thread a sewing needle in an intimate and humbling portrait of old age. In this age of instant Vine and Instagram videos that last seconds and are forgotten seconds later, the show offers a bracing reminder that video remains a dazzling and vertiginous platform for artistic expression. If this sort of stuff energises you, don’t miss the second exhibition, simply titled ‘30 Anos’ (‘30 Years’), a video retrospective of the festival’s illustrious history compressed from a wide-ranging 5,000 hours into a composite that will still take just

Play time Still from Orit Ben-Shitrit’s ‘Men Die and They Are Not Happy’

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Art listings The price is right Feira PARTE How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres. Recommended institutions are marked with a .

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista behind a blank façade that the gallery sometimes uses as a canvas. Inside, in a set of spaces designed by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/galeriavermelho. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Sergio Romagnolo, Joana Vasconcelos, young British artist Jack Strange, and psychedelic rangers Assume Vivid Astro Focus are some of the many artists represented by this always interesting gallery. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards. Luciana Brito Galeria This elegant gallery represents 20 high-calibre artists from Brazil and abroad, like iconic names like Marina Abramovic, Regina Silveira and Mônica Nador, as well as emerging artists like Pablo Lobato. Rua Gomes de

Pinheiros

Silvia Carvalho/PRESS IMAGE

Art & Museums

Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

gravurabrasileira.com). Open 11am6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat.

The thought of visiting a gallery to buy a piece of art is enough to set the nerves of most amateur artlovers on edge: far from being a pleasurable shopping expedition, the sense of needing to be well informed about the art market, as well as simply knowing what you like when you see it, can make the experience uniquely nervewracking. With the intention of taking some of the mystery out of the process, the annual PARTE art fair invites 33 Brazilian and four international galleries to display affordable works from their archives, with clear prices as well as information on the artists and techniques in question. This year, higher-priced works will also be on display alongside hundreds of artworks priced at less than R$8,000 – the painting above by Silvia Carvalho, O beijo

da tartaruga [‘The turtle’s kiss’] is priced at R$ 3,000). A team of voluntary art consultants – unpaid and working without receiving commissions on sales – will also be on hand to discuss possible purchases and help orientate rookie buyers. A bookshop, a gastronomy area and an art/ design section curated by Olivia Yassudo of Coletivo Amor de Madre, complete the four-day experience, with online sales, too, from 1 November-25 December, at the website nailonwall.com. For those in SP, though, take it from us: this event is well worth the schlep to the University of São Paulo (USP) campus. Feira PARTE (feiraparte.com.br) is at Paço das Artes, Avenida da Universidade 1, Cidade Universitária, from 7 to 10 November. Open 2-10pm 7, 8 Nov; noon-8pm 9, 10 Nov. FREE

Carvalho 842, Vila Olímpia (3842 0634/ lucianabritogaleria.com.br). Open 10am7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

2471/galerialuisastrina.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards. Zipper Galeria The emphasis at this gallery, owned by the experienced galerista Fabio Cimino, is on the new and the pop. With excellent curation and two spaces, upstairs and down, there’s always something on that’s worth seeing here. Rua Estados Unidos 1494, Jardim Paulista (4306 4306/zippergaleria.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Jardins AM Galeria Horizonte After seven years in Vila Nova Conceição, this gallery moved to a new larger space in Jardins in 2011. The curator, Angela Martins, represents a roster of artists both in São Paulo and at AM Galeria’s other branch in Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais. Rua Estados Unidos 273, Jardim Paulista (3044 1057/galeriahorizonte. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. No credit cards. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which covers the entire ground floor of an office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s. With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as mid-career artists such as Alexandre da Cunha. Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088

Perdizes & Pompéia Gravura Brasileira Opened in 1998 by Alberto Fuks and Eduardo Besen to showcase classic and contemporary print art, Gravura Brasileira has since staged more than 100 exhibitions from its Perdizes headquarters. This is one of precious few print-only galleries in Brazil, and its exhibitions are both reliably interesting and of consistently high artistic quality. Rua Dr Franco da Rocha 61, Perdizes (3624 0301/

Amoa Konoya Arte Indígena Walter Gomes da Silva’s relationship with Brazil’s numerous indigenous tribes goes back to 1984, when members of the União da Nações Indígenas (Union of Indigenous Nations) asked him to market their handiwork. So he knows what he’s talking about. Today, the arts and crafts gallery he runs with Silvana Costa sells work from 60 indigenous settlements, from geometrically-patterned ceramics to arrowheads. Rua João Moura 1002, Pinheiros (3061 0639/amoakonoya.com. br). Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Galeria Logo In a versatile white space with a basement area that means two shows can run concurrently, Galeria Logo is a favourite with the skate/ graffiti/meeja crowd, and got off to a flying start when it opened in 2011 with a series of ambitious, large-scale shows. We particularly like Walter Nomura’s complex, colourful, messy paintings and Flávio Samelo’s striking photographs. Rua Artur de Azevedo 401, Pinheiros (3062 2381/galerialogo.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat.

Santa Cecília Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has also developed good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Rua Barra Funda 216, Barra Funda (3666 6489/ barogaleria.com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena Choque Cultural This unpretentious and influential gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. It has played a significant role in promoting the city’s street art, and if you find livewire curator/co-owner Baixo Ribeiro on the premises and up for a chat, you’ll come out wiser on this and many other art-related subjects. Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 2365/choquecultural.com.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat. 7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards. Fortes Vilaça Even an art ignoramus will feel the quality at this gallery, one of the most established Brazilian names on the international circuit. They’ve got some big names on the roster: São Paulo graffiti stars OsGemeos, the world-renowned installation artist Ernesto Neto, and painter Beatriz Milhazes. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena (3032 7066/fortesvilaca.com.br). Open 10am7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards. Other location Galpão Fortes Vilaça (warehouse), Rua James Holland 71, Barra Funda (3392 3942). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri.; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards.

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Museums & cultural centres Itaú Cultural This bank-owned cultural centre stages some of the best shows in town, from standout fine art to regular exhibitions on all sorts of aspects of culture, including digital. It also has a library containing audiovisual research material as well as more traditional sources. Avenida Paulista 149, Bela Vista (2168 1777/itaucultural.org.br). Open 9am-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun. Matilha Cultural A socially-minded cultural space in the Centro, Matilha Cultural organises events, courses, film screenings and art exhibitions, which are generally free. With the environment in mind, Matilha was built using certified and reclaimed wood and serves vegetarian food in its café. Rua Rego Freitas 542, (3256 2636/matilhacultural. com.br). Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; noon10pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Museu Afro Brasil The Afro-Brazil museum is, quite simply, one of the jewels in the crown of Parque do Ibirapuera. A closer look at the impressive collection of paintings, photographs and clothing in this museum emphasises the impact African culture has had, and still has, on modern Brazil. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Parque do Ibirapuera (4004 5006/museuafrobrasil.org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. FREE

Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) The MAM contains over 5,000 works by acclaimed Brazilian artists of the likes of Regina Silveira, Cildo Meireles and Leonilson. Its mission is to showcase contemporary and modern Brazilian art, and it also has a 6,000-square-metre sculpture garden. Rua Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5085 1300/ mam.org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5.50; free reductions. Free to all Sun. Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum is an imposing red concrete-and-glass box suspended on four concrete columns, which dominates Avenida Paulista. Inside, it’s the Greatest Hits of World Art, Vols. 1-10. There’s a Picasso, a Gainsborough, a Hieronymus Bosch and a Goya, as well as big Brazilian names like Cândido Portinari and Anita Malfatti. In short, it’s the best collection of European and Brazilian art in South America – even if only around 500 of the museum’s 7,000 works are on show at any given time. Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/masp. art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm Thu; 10am-6pm Fri-Sun (ticket office open until half an hour before closing). Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free to all Tue.

Museu da Casa Brasileira This beautifully preserved mansion houses a museum focused on interior design with a collection that includes furniture from the 17th to the 21st centuries. There’s a great restaurant here too – Quinta do Museu – and, on Sunday mornings, the terrace and garden are the site of delightful free music performances. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2705, Jardim Paulistano (3032 3727/mcb.sp.gov.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; free Sun. Museu do Futebol This fascinating museum uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football. A large collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events. Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu. Museu Histórico da Imigração Japonesa no Brasil This museum houses photos, documents and archives that span the 100-year history of Japanese immigration to Brazil. Rua São Joaquim 381, Liberdade (3208 1755/bunkyo.org.br). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 1.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5; reductions free-$2.50.

Art & Museums

Caixa Cultural This gallery contains 2,000 artworks including paintings, sculptures and carvings by Brazilian artists. Praça da Sé 111, Centro (3321 4400/caixacultural.com.br) Open 9am9pm Tue-Sun. Centro Cultural São Paulo Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in this vast, multi-level space. A rooftop garden views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural. sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE Instituto de Arte Contemporânea Part of the enormous University of São Paulo, its illustrious alumni include Brazil’s former president Fernando Henrique Cardoso. Rua Doutor Álvaro Alvim 90 (1st floor), Vila Mariana (3255 2009/iacbrasil.org.br). Open 10am-8pm Tue-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Instituto Tomie Ohtake Named after the iconic Japanese-Brazilian artist, the Instituto dominates the Pinheiros skyline. It was designed by Tomie Ohtake’s son, Ruy Ohtake, and isn’t afraid to shock with challenging exhibitions. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 201, Pinheiros (2245 1900/institutotomieohtake.org.br). Open 11am-8pm Tue-Sun.

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Shopping & Style New in town Studio Decor Café Markets

Center 3 Thanks to its location on the iconic Avenida Paulista, this mall draws legions of visitors to its four floors for a quick fix of lunchtime shopping or to take advantage of its many services – think tailors, shoe repairers, watch repairers, key cutters, hairdressers, banks and more. The mall has managed to reinvent itself by bringing back some of the glamour its cinemas had back in the 1970s; the spacious but antiquated Cine Bristol is now the modern Multiplex Bristol, with seven screens, one of which is 3D. Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3285 2458/ shoppingcenter3.com.br). Open 8am10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat; 10am10pm Sun and holidays. Galeria do Rock A haven for rockers and emos, affectionately known as ‘emoland’ by city satirists, the Galeria do Rock is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to the various facets of the music scene. CDs, vinyl, T-shirts, accessories, flags and posters – you name it, it’s here and it’s ready to rock. The bottom floor is dedicated solely to hip hop and ‘black music’, as Brazilians term it. The prices are lower than at equivalent speciality shops in other areas around the city; and on Saturdays, a battalion of teenage rockers invades. Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (3337 6277). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Ibirapuera One of the biggest shopping centres in town, Ibirapuera has more than 400 stores plus a food area. Charming small shops can also be found outside the mall, on avenidas Bem-Te-Vi and Gaivota, and ruas Pavão and Normandia. Avenida Ibirapuera 3103, Moema (5095 2300/ ibirapuera.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary. JK Iguatemi With its high-shine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri) and predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora and Topshop. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary. Morumbi Morumbi is a favourite with young executives in the area for its firstfloor gym (Companhia Athletica) as well as for its branch of the Fnac bookstore, which hosts music shows, art events and book releases. The food court has gourmet restaurants including Ganesh (Indian food) and Barbacoa (meat). Brazilian brands

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Shopping malls

The name of this recently opened venue – Studio Decor Café – says it all. Artists’ studio, home design store and café all combine into one in the airy, threestory space on a side street at the Centro end of the bustling nightspot, Baixo Augusta. Retro furniture sits alongside kitsch pieces of decor – think sparkly Turkish lamps, and cushions adorned with hearts, the Mona Lisa and a Facebook thumbs-up. At weekends, the space plays host to an eclectic cultural line-up, from jam sessions to live painting and performance art. Rua Marquês de Paranaguá 363, Consolação (3129 8482/ studiodecorcafe.com.br). Open 9am-9pm daily. Animale, Gloria Coelho and Mara Mac interior appeals to Avenida Paulista are also worth a look. Avenida Roque businessmen, primarily for midday trips Petroni Jr 1089, Brooklin (4003 4132/ to the food court, while kids flock to its morumbishopping.com.br). Open 10amsmall three-screen movie theatre. Rua 10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at Treze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 1100/ stores, bars and restaurants vary. shoppingpaulista.com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Pátio Higienópolis Located on a Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, pleasantly leafy boulevard in this lovely 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at upmarket neighbourhood, this mall stores, bars and restaurants vary. is at first hard to distinguish from the Villa-Lobos This mall has a good mansions and 1950s residential buildings selection of quality shops and restaurants. around it. It’s popular for Check out Arezzo, arguably Brazil’s its branch of the high-end best chain store for gorgeous pizza joint Bar des Arts, and leather bags and shoes (prices brands like Calvin Klein rarely dip below R$100 for underwear and L’Occitane. shoes and R$250 for bags); Avenida Higienópolis 618, and Folic, another Brazilian Higienópolis (3823 2300/ chain with beautifully rlota a C patiohigienopolis.com.br). designed clothing and great Eating e e S Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. bags. The Livraria Cultura Out Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; on the top floor has a small 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours auditorium. Avenida Das Nações at stores, bars and restaurants vary. Unidas 4777, Alto de Pinheiros (3024 Pátio Paulista The largest mall on 4200/shoppingvillalobos. com.br). Open Avenida Paulista is home to chains like 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 12-9pm Sun. Hours Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering. The sleek at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

IN THE AREA

CEAGESP If you’re interested in buying plants, flowers or fruits, try the state market CEAGESP (also known as Ceasa), located in the west of town close to Parque Villa-Lobos. The wholesale market feeds the entire city, but offers a number of retail sales as well, with prices that take some beating. Tuesdays and Fridays are plant and flower days. Get there early to find good deals and fresh products. For fruit, Wednesdays (at night) and weekends (in the morning) are the peak times. Avenida Dr Gastão Vidigal 1946, Vila Leopoldina (3643 3700/ceagesp.gov.br). Open 5am-10am Tue; 4-10pm Wed; 5-10am Fri; 7amnoon Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. No credit cards. Feira da Água Branca Enough of agro-toxic and transgenic products: this market is pro-nature and pro things as they should be found in nature. All the produce here is certified by the Brazilian Organic Agriculture Association. Parque da Água Branca, Água Branca (3875 2625). Open 7am-12pm Tue, Sat & Sun. Feira de Antiguidades e Arte do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast everything from antique clocks and furniture, clothes and records to vintage watches, brooches and sunglasses. There’s also a number of excellent food stalls, selling homemade Italian cuisine inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s nearby version of Little Italy. Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the many things to be found at this beautiful market underneath the hulking body of the MASP. Although the prices can be quite hefty, only one-of-akind articles are purveyed here. Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Feira da República Running continuously since 1956, this openair centre has 600 stands and a wide selection of food, including Japanese yakisoba; acarajé, the deep-fried Bahian shrimp treat; and common or garden hot dogs. There is also a large open-air gallery where local artists sell paintings. Praça da República, República. Metrô 3, República. Open 9am-5pm Sat, Sun. Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines. There’s an abundance of native fruits, as well as exotic offerings from Asia. Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/mercadomunicipal.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

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Film Reviews

europa filmes/press image

Jeune & Jolie

Teenage wasteland Marine Vacth turns in a breakout performance as a high-class, teenage Parisian prostitute

François Ozon tiptoes gracefully through a minefield in Young & Beautiful, the story of a 17-yearold girl, Isabelle (former model Marine Vacth), from a comfortable Parisian background, who decides to become a high-class prostitute in between school and negotiating the normal ups and downs of family life. Isabelle isn’t poor; there’s no obvious evidence of abuse; and any problems she has at home are common enough. And yet, from the film’s early scenes, when Isabelle discusses a holiday fling with her pre-teen brother, rejecting the intimacy of a real romance, we realise that something is seriously wrong when it comes to sex, her body and her relationships with men. It’s a sit-up-and-watch

premise as Isabelle launches herself into a series of paid-for encounters in hotel rooms with much older men – but one that Ozon only scratches at the surface of, taking an approach that flits between soft and severe. It’s to Ozon’s credit that he never serves up easy answers, and even after ample scenes of sex and showdowns with those closest to Isabelle, and even a scene with a psychologist, we’re none the wiser as to what’s driving her. Such openness is welcome, and it puts great emphasis on Vacth’s performance – and on the film as a character study – as we strain to read her behaviour, her few words, even the look in her eyes. It goes without saying that Vacth’s embrace of the frank and frequent sex scenes is bold and brave. But she offers more than this. There’s a steeliness in her eyes, tempered by vulnerability, that’s deeply saddening. She’s

hard and experienced beyond her years; but she’s also lost and deeply unhappy. A scene late at night with her stepfather (Frédéric Pierrot) is uncomfortable and upsetting as she brings home the superficial

Jeune & Jolie (Jovem e Bela) is released on 15 November.

europa filmes/press image

Dir. François Ozon, France, 2013. Marine Vacth, Géraldine Pailhas, Frédéric Pierrot. 95 mins.

charm she uses to win over clients. Her testy relationship with her understanding, if distracted, mother (Géraldine Pailhas) is skillfully drawn and quietly unknowable. But this welcome openness is contradicted by other decisions that Ozon makes. The film’s fourseason structure – we move from summer to spring – is suffocating and squeezes complex ideas into an over-simple framework. The songs that mark the change of seasons are trite and obvious (‘The little girl you knew is no more,’ offers one, bluntly), and other attempts to counter Isabelle’s opacity, such as her classmates reciting the French poet Rimbaud, feel similarly forced. Pleasingly, Ozon upends a late episode with a new boyfriend in which it feels like matters are being wrapped up far too cleanly and neatly. But then, an even later appearance in a small role by Charlotte Rampling as the wife of one of Isabelle’s clients is simply strange and impossible to believe. At a fatal juncture, it distracts attention from the film’s important questions and from Vacth’s noble attempts to address them with a subtlety and a confidence that marks the arrival of a genuine new star. Dave Calhoun

A beautiful lie Ozon’s bold sex scenes push the envelope in ‘Jeune & Jolie’

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imagem filmes/press image

Film

Blue Jasmine

film e of th h t n o m

House of cards Blanchett (left) is brilliant as the wife of Baldwin’s pyramid schemer in Woody Allen’s latest film

Dir. Woody Allen. USA, 2013. Cate Blanchett, Alec Baldwin, Peter Sarsgaard. 98 mins

For Woody Allen fans, watching

his recent films has been like prising your eyes open after an earthquake. Will everything be just as it once was? Or will it look like Cassandra’s Dream, his 2007 low, starring Colin

Farrell as a London mechanic? For now, we can breathe a sigh of relief. Blue Jasmine is Allen’s strongest film overall since Vicky Cristina Barcelona, but you have to dig deep in

the New Yorker’s back catalogue to find a single performance as affecting and well-judged as the one Cate Blanchett delivers. Her brittle, shivery Jasmine is a Manhattan socialite whose world crumbles after the collapse of a Ponzi scheme run by her bigger-than-life fraudster husband, Hal (Alec Baldwin). Broke, with nowhere else to go, Jasmine moves in with her downto-earth sister, Ginger (Sally Hawkins) in San Francisco. As she tries to get back on her feet, Allen gives us flashbacks to the high life she once shared with Hal in New York. Blanchett’s Jasmine slips between ingratiating and alienating. Is she a victim? Or the architect of her own demise? Should we care about how damaged she is? Some of Allen’s strongest films – such as 1978’s Interiors and 1988’s Another Woman – have put the gags on hold and found richness in troubled women. Jasmine doesn’t steer clear of comedy, but its best humour is of the black, squirming sort, such as when Jasmine’s new dentist boss comes on to her (‘Have you ever got high on nitrous oxide?’). But there’s no disguising the trauma of its final shot and the interest at its heart: a sad woman in freefall. Dave Calhoun Blue Jasmine is released on 15 November.

The Purge

America, 2022. Violent crime and unemployment have been eradicated since the introduction of the annual Purge Night: a 12-hour spree of cathartic anarchy and violence during which the well-armed rich emerge from the their gated communities to vent their frustrated anger on the underclass. When the Sandin family give a black homeless veteran refuge (Edwin Hodge), the masked rich kids chasing him threaten to trespass on their home’s state-

of-the-art security and wreak murderous havoc. Writer-director James DeMonaco’s satirical, futuristic home invasion movie lacks the plot logic and political context needed to lend substance to its central conceit. It’s hard not to root for Ethan Hawke’s complacent home security salesman, his wife (Lena Headey) and their teenage kids. But the film’s would-be subversive ideas about the kneejerk appeal of social violence undeniably get lost in the mix. Nigel Floyd The Purge (Uma noite de crime) is released on 1 November.

universal pictures/press image

Dir. James DeMonaco, USA, France, 2013. Ethan Hawke, Lena Headey, Max Burkholder. 85 mins.

Oh, that’s rich The affluent pause during the ultra-violence of ‘The Purge’

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Lore

europa filmes/press image

Dir. Cate Shortland, Germany, Australia, UK, 2012. Saskia Rosendahl, Kai-Peter Malina, Nele Trebs. 109 mins.

Lore is released on 11 October.

Film

The forest for the trees Saskia Rosendahl as the titular character of ‘Lore’

We’ve become accustomed – some would say inured – to seeing characters living like fugitives in stories about WWII’s devastation of Europe. Indeed, upon meeting the protagonist of Cate Shortland’s drama, there’s every reason to think that Hannelore Dressler (Saskia Rosendahl), Lore for short, is another screen heroine trying to stay one step ahead of the Gestapo’s genocide industry. Only something feels strange, as this young woman and her siblings are instructed by their mother (Lardi) to flee the household. We soon find out why: These are not persecuted Jewish children but the well-heeled offspring of an SS officer, who are avoiding Allied troops as news spreads of Der Führer’s death. The longer these Hitler youth run wild through the Black Forest to ‘Omi’s house’ like Grimm fairy-tale moppets, the more Lore’s feral

desperation brings out her blatant anti-Semitism. We have seen the enemy – and we are supposed to sympathize with her. It’s a bold move, testing the audience’s emotional pressure points, as the still-nazified Lore, her kin and a vulnerable infant traipse across the film’s postapocalyptic Germany Year Zero landscape. And like the Aussie director’s coming-of-age debut, Somersault (2004), Shortland’s sophomore effort has a knack for using abstract, claustrophobic close-ups – a stubbed cigarette, dripping water, ants on a corpse – to emphasise moments of beauty and horror as its female lead negotiates a brutal world of wolves. (With a fawn-asinnocence metaphor to boot!) After a while, however, Lore’s horror show starts to feel less like a means to an end than the end itself: What starts as a flipped survival tale turns into historical tragisploitation that wallows in its slog of endless suffering. David Fear

The Music Never Stopped

Based on a case study by neurologist Oliver Sacks, Jim Kohlberg’s familial saga pits hard-nosed, middle-class engineer Henry Sawyer (Simmons, solid as usual) against his free-spirit son, Gabriel (Pucci) – or rather, his now-adult offspring’s amnesia. Back in 1968, Gabriel was just another hippie kid tuning in, turning on and aching to drop out; after he and Pops get into it over Nam, college, and that damned rock ‘n’ roll racket, the teen hightails it. Cut to the mid-’80s, when, after decades of estrangement, the family is reunited as Gabriel rehabilitates from a brain-tumour removal. There’s one problem: He remembers nothing past Woodstock. So Henry trades in his Count Basie albums for acid rock – specifically Gabriel’s favorite, the Grateful Dead – in order to communicate with his boy. Welcome to How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love a 27-Minute Version of ‘Dark Star.’ Music not only soothes the savage beast, it can heal all generation-gap rifts as well. (That this takes place during the Reagan era, when ’50s

europa filmes/press image

Dir. Jim Kohlberg, USA, 2011. Lou Taylor Pucci, J.K. Simmons, Julia Ormond. 105 mins.

The times they are not a-changin’ Sawyer (left) and Pucci star in this cloying drama about a son stuck in the 1960s

conservatism and ’60s nostalgia duked it out for cultural supremacy, is doubly ironic. Apparently everyone could have just, like, bonded over ‘Truckin’’!) These kinds of disease-fueled dramas already tend to be soap-operatic, but

Kohlberg isn’t taking any chances; by the time father and son end up at a Dead show in matching tie-dyed outfits, the director has aggressively, insistently overplayed audience heartstrings like Jerry Garcia in a long-winded solo. The music

eventually winds down; the movie’s mawkishness, however, goes on and on and on. David Fear The Music Never Stopped (A música nunca parou) is released on 15 November.

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Main cinemas

Thematic dining Show chow

How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

Film

Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Built in 1901 and restored in 1927 as the first Banco do Brasil in São Paulo, this imposing former bank in the middle of the old city is now a cultural centre, with a café, art exhibitions, theatre and educational programmes. The CCBB cinema programme often includes engrossing retrospectives of internationally renowned directors. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/bb.com.br/cultura). Metrô 1 or 3, Sé or São Bento. 1 screen, 70 seats. Tickets R$4; R$2 reductions. Cine Olido This wonderful little cinema forms part of a cultural complex, along with a theatre, dance space and photo gallery, that’s housed in a classic downtown building. Cine Olido has eclectic year-round programming, often hosting film festivals related to topical l cultural events. Avenida São João 473, Centro (3397 0171/galeriaolido.sp.gov. br). Metrô 3, República. 1 screen, 236 seats. Tickets R$1; R$0.50 reductions. No credit cards.

Consolação & Higienópolis Cinemark Pátio Higienópolis This cinema, inside the Shopping Pátio Higienópolis mall, has seats at a steep enough gradient that you’ll always get a good view, even when the cinema is packed. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Higienópolis 646, Higienópolis (3823 2875/cinemark.com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. 6 screens, 98-264 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; R$8-$11 reductions. 3D film tickets R$26-$28; R$3-$4 reductions. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca Despite being located in a shopping centre, this cinema has a welcoming ambience. Mainstream movies and arthouse titles screen daily. Rua Frei Caneca 569, 3rd floor, Frei Caneca Shopping, Consolação (3472 2365/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 9 screens, 103-268 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; 3D film tickets R$26-$28.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations,

imagem filmes/PRESS IMAGE

Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

CineSESC This charming cinema on Rua Augusta has a bar at the back, separated by a glass screen, where you can enjoy a drink as you watch a film. One of the most popular cinemas for film buffs, it screens art-house movies and hosts a number of annual film festivals. Rua Augusta 2075, Consolação (3087 0500/sescsp.org.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Tickets R$6-$12.

Put aside the popcorn and sharpen your table manners for a series of gourmet dinners at the cinema. After the sell-out success of the British dinner served during the screening of Diana, the São Paulo chef Benny Novak is preparing the menu for the second edition of Banquetes no Cinema (‘banquets at the cinema’). Next up is Woody Allen’s latest flick, Blue Jasmine (see Film of the Month), giving moviegoers a US flavour with dishes like mussel sweetcorn chowder. 9pm, 12 November at Cinépolis JK (see listings). Tickets R$165, via foodpass.com.br. with some screens available for 3D films. Priority is given to blockbusters though cult films are sometimes shown on the smaller screens. Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa (3024 3851/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18$24; R$9-$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28. Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37; R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues. It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

CINUSP Paulo Emílio A small cinema on the enormous University of São Paulo campus, CINUSP shows free films to an audience of movie buffs. Rua do Anfiteatro 181, Colméia Favo 4, Cidade Universitária, Butantã (3091 3540/usp. br/cinusp). 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

Jardins Playarte Bristol Located on the top floors of Shopping Center 3, Playarte Bristol has large screening rooms (more long than wide), and is a good option for passing a couple hours while waiting for traffic on Avenida Paulista to let up. Shopping Center 3, Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3289 0509/ playartepictures.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 7 screens, 115-444 seats. Tickets R$19-$23; R$9,50-$11.50 reductions. Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. It also also has the advantage of location – next door to the excellent bookshop Livraria Cultura, on the ground floor of the Conjunto Nacional building, on the bustling corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats. Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions.

Cinépolis JK Opened in 2012 in the swish JK Iguatemi shopping mall, this cinema is all about luxury – of its eight screening rooms, six are VIP. The other two aren’t too shabby, either: one uses Imax technology and the other, with 4D capacity, can use up to 20 special effects to enhance the viewing experience. It doesn’t come cheap though – tickets are are much as R$68. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, 4th floor, Vila Olímpia (3152 6605/jk.cinepolis.com.br). 8 screens, 67-382 seats. Tickets R$34$68; R$17-$34 reductions. Kinoplex Itaim Housed in the Brascan complex, this cinema is located near a food court with a great variety of restaurants as well as a number of bars for longer nights out. Screens have comfortable armchairs with adjustable head and armrests. Screens mainstream films. Rua Joaquim Floriano 466, Itaim Bibi (3131 2004/kinoplex.com.br). 6 screens, 155-312 seats. Tickets R$10$26; R$5-$13 reductions; 3D films R$28$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Sala Cinemateca This former slaughterhouse, a beautiful brick building with a garden in its interior patio, houses an important Brazilian film archive and an arthouse cinema that hosts events from the Mostra Internacional de Cinema de São Paulo, the city’s international film festival. Largo Senador Raul Cardoso 207, Vila Mariana (3512 6111/cinemateca.gov.br). 2 screens, 108-210 seats. Tickets R$8; R$4 reductions. Cine Segall This small-screen cinema forms part of the Lasar Segall Museum, a charming period house named after the Lithuanian-born artist who once lived there. The cinema also houses an art library and a café. Rua Berta 111, Vila Mariana (2159 0400/museusegall.org. br). Metrô 1, Vila Mariana. 1 screen, 92 seats. Tickets R$10; R$5 reductions.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cinemark Cidade Jardim Has gigantic screens, digital sound and projection, and love seats. Also includes two screens in the Cinemark Premier style, reclineable leather armchairs with foot rests, a lounge area, wine list, and special popcorn seasoned with flavoured oils – all with a high price tag. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Cidade Jardim (3552 1800/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 72-274 seats. Tickets R$22$53; R$11-$26,50 reductions; 3D films R$28-$57; R$14-$.28,50 reductions.

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Gay & Lesbian Mix it up

Listings

Bars

How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

‘Bar da Lôca’ The always-crowded ‘bar on the corner’ is actually the neighbourhood bakery-cum-watering hole officially named Bar Tom Zé. Its proximity to nearby club A Lôca turned it into the club’s unofficial waiting room. The crowd is mixed, sheltering twinks, bears and closet cases. It’s often standing-room only. Rua Frei Caneca 106, Consolação (3256 1946). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8. Espaço Caê On Saturday and Sunday afternoons at this friendly spot, there’s a live samba band followed by samba rock, axé and funk. But it’s the Thursday and Friday nights that draw the big crowds, for one reason only: karaoke. Rua Aurora 737, Centro (3852 5637/ espacocae.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 7pm-midnight Thu; 7pm-1am Fri; 8.30pm-1am Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices can of beer R$4; caipirinha R$7. Cover R$10. O Gato One of the oldest joints in the area, O Gato is a mixture between bar and club. Thursdays are for romance, with a live band and background music. On Fridays and Saturdays, both floors come into play, with a live band and DJ on the first floor, and electronic music on the second. Come and try your luck. Rua Frei Caneca 462, Consolação (3256 3656/ogato.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10pm-6am Thu-Sat. Prices can of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$15.

FESTIVAL MIX BRASIL/press image

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Clubs Long story short ‘O Amor Que Não Ousa Dizer Sue Nome’ will be competing

With an expansive, eclectic programme featuring film and a wide array of arts, this year’s Festival Mix Brasil’s diversity comes two-fold Right as the curtains are falling on another São Paulo International Film Festival (the ‘Mostra’), movie buffs and champions of the arts alike are about to turn their attention to the Festival Mix Brasil de Cultura da Diversidade (Mix Brasil Festival of Cultural Diversity), which will feature 36 LGBT-themed attractions – including theatre, performance, dance and karaoke – and over 140 LGBT-themed films in this, its 21st and largest edition to date. This year’s edition of Latin America’s largest LGBT festival will opens its film programme with the controversial Interior. Leather Bar. – a graphic re-creation of the mythological 40 minutes of gay S&M footage which was allegedly cut from the borderline pornographic film, Cruising (1980), starring Al Pacino. The film was co-directed by the actor and gay

rights activist, James Franco, and the director, Travis Matthews, whose work – which includes I Want Your Love (2012) and the In The Room series – will be featured throughout the event. Other highlights include 2013’s Queer Palm winner, the French film, L’inconnu du Lac (A Stranger by the Lake), and the festival’s own version of the Gong Show, ‘O Show do Gongo’ (12 November), where films of up to 5 minutes’ length are shown to an audience that, gladiator style, has the power to decide whether the film should be shown in its entirety. The festival takes place at several venues across the city, including CCSP, CineSESC and Espaço Itaú de Cinema. As an added bonus, when you go to buy your tickets for one of the paid films, just tell the seller, ‘sou gay’ (‘I’m gay’) or ‘sou simpatizante’ (‘I’m gay-friendly’), and you’ll pay half-price admission. Juan Cifrian The 21st Festival Mix Brasil de Cultura da Diversidade is on 7-17 November. Opening time and locations: the full programme will be announced shortly on mixbrasil.org.br.

Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings. The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35. Espaço Muss Can’t get up to Salvador? Head downtown to this crowded, steamy spot for a sweet taste of Afro-Brazil. The tiny dancefloor is packed wall-to-wall with men jamming to live samba and DJ spun axé, hip hop and funk carioca. Rua Bento Freitas 66, República (3361 4160/espacomuss. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 8pm-late Wed; 9pm-late Fri, Sat; 7pmmidnight Sun. Admission R$15. Glória This club used to be a church, but on Fridays it’s fashionista Sin City. It attracts classy crowds thanks to its opulent decor, with beds, mirrors and champagne bars. Expect a flamboyant crowd. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/ clubegloria.com.br). Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Admission R$10-$50. The Week This party is what every other club (gay or straight) is trying to copy. It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with summer-season clones in Rio and Florianópolis, and an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. It’s already gone international, with parties popping up in Barcelona, London and Mexico City. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/theweek.com.br). Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$60-$80.

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This lively café-cum-bar, recently relocated to a larger space with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/ freycafe.com.br). Open 4pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15. RESTAURANT Bella Paulista Casa de Pães Brightly lit and always crowded, this bakery-cum-restaurant is a gay institution. From early evening to the wee hours of the morning, party-goers and TV stars hob-nob and flirt over tasty sandwiches, pastas and pastries. The service, however, can be patchy. Rua Haddock Lobo 354, Consolação (3214 3347/bellapaulista.com). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 24 hours daily. SAUNA Termas Fragata This is one of São Paulo’s most traditional saunas, with a casual atmosphere and a random mix of beautiful working boys and horny locals. Rua Francisco Leitão 71, Pinheiros (3085 7061/termasfragata.com.br). Open 2pmmidnight daily. Admission R$40.

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Music & Nightlife Terra firma

Long after the great escape Fourteen years since they performed in São Paulo, Britpop superstars Blur return

spotlight, the upstart London-based Palma Violets, bring a ferocious, garage rock-inspired sound fresh from their debut 180, released on Rough Trade, aptly carrying on in the spirit of labelmate predecessors The Libertines and The Strokes. Much less aggressive, the Scottish band Travis, whose lead vocalist Fran Healy has always given them an irrepressibly gloomy air, return with their seventh studio album Where You Stand. Age has mellowed their sound further, and

the melancholy is more palpable than ever in Healy’s voice. In contrast to Travis’s dour approach, the Grammy-winning US hip hop-and-soul group, The Roots provide a welcome jolt of energy along with a change in style to the otherwise rock-slanted line-up. Another internet success story, thanks to the captivating video and haunting melody of 2011’s ‘Video Games’, sultry vocalist Lana Del Rey arrives on the strength of the cinematic Born to Die record and

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Although São Paulo’s indie scene is often relegated to bars on bustling Rua Augusta or to the live venue Cine Joia’s occasional international bookings, the Planeta Terra festival draws a turnout of 30,000 fans eager to catch the bigger names of the genre. Perhaps anticipating the throng, Terra has changed locations for the fourth time since 2007 – moving to the spacious fields of the Campo de Marte airport in the city’s north zone. Next year’s Lollapalooza will also take place in a larger venue – the Autódromo de Interlagos, five times the size of its former venue, the Jockey Club. Kicking off Planeta Terra with the synth-rock paulistano five piece, Hatchets, the show continues a half-hour later with the still-unannounced local winners of Terra’s online Rock on Top contest. More Brazilian artists follow, including another SP group, O Terno, the funk-reggae fusion of BNegão & Seletores de Frequência, and the twee folksy sounds of Porta dos Fundos actress Clarice Falcão, whose involvement in the sketch comedy YouTube sensation possibly lends more to the public’s interest in her set, than her too-cute first full-length album, Monomania. The first foreign band to take the

Linda Brownlee/press image

The ten-hour, two-stage, Planeta Terra music fest returns for its seventh edition, says CM Corey

Ladies and gentlemen Planeta Terra will feature Lana Del Rey (left), Clarice Falcão and veteran band Travis

its seemingly never-ending string of big singles and accompanying million-views clips. The fellow US vocalist and genredefying alt-rock veteran Beck hasn’t released a proper record since 2008’s Modern Guilt, but is reportedly midway through putting together a pair of new albums, one acoustic and the other in his usually eclectic style. Though he recently squeaked out a trio of singles, the man whose career was built from the 1993 smash ‘Loser’ has no shortage of material. Wrapping up the daylong show, Britpop giant Blur is the star attraction, having been absent from Brazilian stages since 1999. Expect them to unleash all their crowd favourites like the disco-flavoured ‘Girls & Boys’, the ultra-English ‘Country House’, and the woo-hooing arena rock shout-along, ‘Song 2’. And if the programme weren’t packed tightly enough, there’s also a Ferris wheel and giant slide for thrill-seeking hipsters requiring additional distraction. Planeta Terra Festival takes place fom 1.45pm on 9 November at Campo de Marte, Avenida Santos Dumont 2241, Santana (4003 5588/musica.terra.com.br/ planetaterra). Tickets R$165-$350.

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Live preview Solange Knowles

Can you imagine growing up with Beyoncé as your big sister? Sibling rivalry is a thorny maze of insecurities even after your hormone-heady teen years are over, and as part of Destiny’s Child, big sis has been an international superstar since Solange was just 12 years old. That must’ve been a rough ride for a kid who, just like her sister, showed an interest in showbiz early on. Still, Solange persevered, releasing two solo records of glossy, slightly saccharine, retro-leaning soul. She divided the rest of her time between acting and deejaying, becoming a fixture in fashion-show front rows in the process – not to mention undertaking that full-time job known as motherhood (she had her son at just 18). So far, so mainstream. But in the past three years, Solange has made some surprising choices. The 27-year-old covered the Dirty Projectors, sang with Of Montreal and, most notably, started

collaborating with Dev Hynes, who as a teenager gained notoriety in London punkfunk trio Test Icicles. Now living in Brooklyn, New York, Hynes records as Blood Orange, specialising in a laid-back, spartan strain of R&B – like Prince on quaaludes. The fingerprints of his latter-day aesthetic can be found all over Solange’s new seven-song EP, True, where her nimble tones relax on a bed of twinkling guitars and languorous bass grooves. It’s clearly striking a chord: The lead track ‘Losing You’ has clocked up 2.5 million YouTube views since October. With a full-length LP penciled in for next year, it looks like Solange is finally carving out a niche of her own, just left of centre. Kim Taylor Bennett

EliasTahan/press image

Solange is finally carving out a niche of her own, just left of centre

SHOW

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Sister’s doing it for herself Beyoncé’s kin Solange is blazing her own trail

Mazzy Star’s fourth album must’ve been a frustrating time for the person charged with updating the (possibly ill-advised) ‘What’s new?’ section of their website, it didn’t exactly come as a surprise. This, after all, is a band afforded cult status for its narcoleptic sound, which swims languidly between the psych-infused indie-folk of LA’s ’80s Paisley Underground scene and sweetly diffuse, glazed-over grunge. Their signature song, 1994 sleeper hit ‘Fade Into You’, was a faintly sinister ode to romantic selfdissolution. Even their album titles (’91’s She Hangs Brightly, ’93’s So Tonight That I Might See and ’96’s Among My Swan) have a sort of charmed grammatical haziness. Nor were singer Hope Sandoval or guitarist David Roback ever the types to be exactly plagued by urgency. ‘I don’t really notice the time,’ Sandoval told Rolling Stone

a few years back in an interview about her (even more pensive) side project, The Warm Inventions. ‘We don’t keep track of the days and months. And the years…’ In fact, Seasons of Your Day, which also features My Bloody Valentine’s Colm O’Ciosoig and the late, great folk guitarist Bert Jansch, was apparently more or less finished back in 2009. It’s a darkly enchanted, luxuriously sleepy stretch of an album, with a sound as unchanged by the intervening decade-and-a-bit as Sleeping Beauty stepping from her glass coffin. As always it’s shaped, textured and coloured a deep, rich mauve by Roback’s echoing electric slide and gauzy acoustic, and by Sandoval’s gorgeously somnolent voice, with its habit of sliding out of focus just as each intimate lyric begins to form a picture in your mind. That’s not to say it isn’t varied.

Album review

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Mazzy Star

Seasons of Your Day (Rhymes of An Hour Records)

As hiatuses go, 17 years is a pretty long time for a band to be out for the count: longer than Guns N’ Roses’ 15-year fiddle over Chinese Democracy, and only five short of My Bloody Valentine’s nuclear winter. But while the epic wait for

‘Flying Low’ is seven-plus minutes of heavily lumbering, headily swirling Doors-influenced blues. ‘Lay Myself Down’ is essentially trippy acoustic pop, like skipping through a K-hole. And if only Beach House, the dream-pop duo most often heralded as the band’s current successors, had something of the countrified intensity of the dust-cloud-stirring Jansch duet ‘Spoon’ to offer alongside their perfumed yawns. But Seasons of Your Day is an album that moves most when it deviates least from classic Mazzy Star. ‘I know you’ve been missing me,’ sings Sandoval on the title track, its minor-key melody sundappled with glockenspiel, rocked by a drowsy string quartet and suffused with sweet autumnal sadness. ‘Well, you know, I’ve been missing you too…’ Maybe next time round we’ll only have to wait 16 years. Bella Todd

Music & Nightlife

Solange Knowles plays at Cine Joia, Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv) on 21 November, 11.30pm. Tickets R$100-$200.

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Nightclubs Pop-up gigs Sofar Sounds How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots.

Classical Sala São Paulo One of the most celebrated concert halls in Latin America, Sala São Paulo was constructed in a Louis XVI-style 1938 train station and redesigned as a cultural centre and concert hall. Praça Júlio Prestes 16, Luz (3367 9500/salasaopaulo.art.br). Open box office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri or before concert; 10am-4.30pm Sat on performance days; 2hrs before concert Sun. Prices R$20-$110.

Music & Nightlife

Eclectic

Jazz

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Bar Secreto More of a club than a bar, this candle-lit room is decked out with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and electronic. The exclusive club (you can’t call – contact is only via email) caters to fashionistas and hipsters. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm5am Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$22; cover R$80. Caos In a compact space on Baixo Augusta, Caos crams in more of everything than most bars. More funloving customers, packed tight on the dance floor. More eclectic DJ sets. And more – well, tat, with walls and shelves brimming with film posters, telephones and door knobs. Rua Augusta 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584.com. br). Open 7pm-2am Tue-Fri; 9pm-2am Sat; 7pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$20-$40. Gloria This former church in Bela Vista normally functions as a gay club, but they also host hip hop nights drawing in a mixed crowd of university kids and B-boys from the ‘periphery’ – São Paulo’s grittier outer reaches. Rua 13 de Maio 830, Bela Vista (3287 3700/ clubegloria.com.br). Open 11pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$9; caipirinha R$18; cover R$20-$50. Hot Hot Big with the fashion crowd and rich kids, Hot Hot has a plush upstairs bar, while downstairs a dark dancefloor has one of the best soundsystems in the city, pumping out electronic beats from Brazilian and international DJs. Rua Santo Antônio 570, Bela Vista (2985 8685/hothotsite.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$30-$80. Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has decor inspired by 19thcentury gentlemen’s clubs, right down to the stuffed animal heads on the walls. But the real star is the terrace, from which you can gaze over at the Catedral da Sé. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com. br). Open midnight-6am Tue, Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$30-$120. Love Story Love Story isn’t about the music – it’s about a decadent party that doesn’t get going until well after 2.30am, when off–duty hookers, tourists and clubbers let loose until the early hours. A mix of house and dance music keeps the energy levels high until long after sunrise. Rua Araújo 232, República (3231 3101/ danceterialovestory.tur.br). Metrô 3, República. Open midnight-late Mon-Sat. Prices cover R$60.

Music venues

What started out in a flat in London’s Kensal Rise in 2009 has become a bit of a global phenomenon, bringing up-and-coming bands to small, secret venues in cities across the world. We salute Sofar Sounds – ‘Songs from a Room’ – for putting a bit of spontaneity back into live music, and we’ve loved squeezing onto sofas in São Paulo living rooms to watch eclectic line-ups go wild, or just gently sway, on stage (or, should we say, on the rug). Hosted on the last Monday of every month, the locations – announced a few hours beforehand – have included beauty salons, ateliers and clothing stores. sofarsounds. com. Sign up via spsofar@gmail.com. 25 Nov, 16 Dec. FREE Tapas Another nonchalantly cool hangout on the Augusta strip, Tapas is a two-storey bar with DJs and live bands packing out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of ages and musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação (tapasclub.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-R$15.

7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; cover R$20-$80. Disco This club is a favourite with the city’s young, beautiful and rich, although it’s quite small and often beyond crowded. The highlight of the space – a creation of the architect Isay Weinfeld – is the glittering mirrored corridor that takes you from the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

Electronica Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s houseturned-club, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. The action is out the back, where media types and rich kids flit up and down the steps between two tree-covered courtyards, each with its own bar and dancefloor. DJs spin everything from electro rock and ’80s disco to house. Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92. blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50. D–Edge D–Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace. The crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours. Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Open midnight-

Indie & rock Funhouse Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club. Behind the curtain, you’ll find a little black box of a dancefloor where they might be blaring electro dance music, pop anthems, hard rock, or funk carioca. Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/funhouse.com.br). Open 10pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50. Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/ infernoclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

Bourbon Street Music Club This New Orleans-style bar is big with upmarket paulistanos, who come to hear live jazz and blues. There are shows every night. Rua dos Chanés 127, Moema (5095 6100/bourbonstreet.com. br). Open 8pm Mon-Tue; 9pm WedSat; 8pm Sun. Shows 11pm Tue-Thu; midnight Fri, Sat; 11pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.90-$9.50; caipirinha R$17. Casa de Francisca This tiny, rustic live music bar tucked away in Jardins has live jazz nightly. Rua José Maria Lisboa 190, Jardim Paulista (3052 0547/casadefrancisca.art.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 8pm-1am Tue-Sat; 9.30pm-12.30am Sun. Prices 355ml beer R$8; caipirinha R$12.50. Jazz nos Fundos Dark, spartan and unpretentious, this bar is basically a hole-in-the-wall in a parking lot, but the music is excellent and it’s all about the jazz. Nice. Rua João Moura 1076, Pinheiros (3083 5975/jazznosfundos. net). Open 8pm-2.30am Tue-Sat; shows 10pm, 1am. Metrô 2, Sumaré. Prices cover R$13-$19; small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11. Madeleine Musicians like playing this swish restaurant/bar, as it’s a pleasant space, with lots of wood, a high ceiling and even a mezzanine floor for a bird’s eye view. Rua Aspicuelta 201, Vila Madalena (2936 0616/madeleine.com. br). Open 7pm-last client Tue-Sat. Shows 9.30pm. Prices cover R$17-$26 (minimum spend R$50 on Sat.); chope R$8.60; caipirinha R$16.90. São Cristóvão This buzzy retrodecorated bar and restaurant is decorated with vintage football photos and memorabilia. On Mondays, they have live jazz with the Maurício de Souza Quintet. Rua Aspicuelta 533, Vila Madalena (3097 9904). Open noon4am Mon-Sat; noon-3am Sun. Prices chope R$4.90; caipirinha R$12. Serralheria Espaço Cultural Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, this no-frills venue in a small warehouse in Lapa has a laid-back vibe and superfriendly owners. Blending bar and exhibition space, you’ll find everything from photography to video art and sculpture on display in the covered outdoor bar area, while eclectic live music sets are hosted in the cosier indoor space. Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 0124/escapeserralheria.org). Open 9pm2am Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10.

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17/10/13 16:06

MPB

Samba

Bar do Cidão This spot is beloved by its diehard regulars, and has live samba and chorinho every night. Rua Deputado Lacerda Franco 293, Pinheiros (3813 3111/cidaobar.com.br). Open 7pm-late Mon-Sat. Prices 600ml beer R$5.50-$6.50; caipirinha R$11; cover R$8. Grazie a Dio! This medium-sized, unpretentious, and charming place is one of the best live venues in São Paulo to hear great musicians play samba, samba rock and MPB. Get close, dance, and smell the sweat – or sit out back and have dinner. There’s live music TuesdaySunday nights, but Friday nights with the excellent samba rock combo Clube de Balanço, are recommended. On Sundays, Marquinho Dikuã, one of São Paulo’s leading sambistas, puts on a fiery show with the Sambasonics. Rua Girassol 67, Vila Madalena (3031 6568/grazieadio. com.br). Open 8pm-late Tue-Sun; shows 10pm Tue, Wed; 11pm Thu-Sun. Prices cover R$15-$25; small bottle beer R$4.40; caipirinha R$10.40.

IN THE AREA

Ministério da Cultura and Instituto Alfa de Cultura presents

GRUPO DE RUA in

NOVEMBER 9 AND 10 Saturday, 8:00 p.m. Sunday, 6:00 p.m.

“Bruno Beltrão, wows the audience at the beginning of the season in Kampnagel with CRACKZ. Rapid movements of hip hop in a furious choreography”

Music & Nightlife

Bar Brahma Bar Brahma is a São Paulo institution for its line-up of live samba, MPB, choro and jazz. Avenida São João 677, República (3333 3030/ barbrahmasp.com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11am-late daily. Shows 10.30pm weekdays; 2pm & 9pm Sat; 1.30pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.10-$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50-$19.20; cover R$10-$68. Bar Mangueira Named after Rio’s most famous samba school, this packed dancehall is all about the music and dancing, no frills. Pagode, samba and samba rock bands play until the early hours while the couples on the floor spin whirlwinds of rhythm. Call for free classes, given before the bands begin to play. Rua Cláudio Soares 124, Pinheiros (3034 1085/barmagueirasp. com.br). Open 9.30pm-4am Thu, Fri; 1.30-10.30pm Sat; 3.30-10.30pm Sun. Prices cover R$10-$20; 600ml beer R$6-$7; caipirinha R$12. Casa da Bisa Located in the heart of Casa Verde, this house has a wide garden that is perfect for a feijoada with live samba on a sunny day. The crowd is young and, as it closes early, generally off somewhere else afterwards. Rock & indie Avenida Baruel 651, Casa Verde (3951 Beco 203 From rock to electro, go 6472/casadabisaeventos.com.br). Open nuts with the fantastic Brazilian and 2-11pm Thu-Sat. international – mainly rock – bands that Ó do Borogodó This compact space take the stage at the paulistano branch is the best samba venue in town if you of the Porto Alegre nightspot. Indie kids, love to dance, drink and sing along hipsters and rockers mix on the crowded from Monday through Saturday. On dance floor, while the upstairs mezzanine Mondays, Gafieira Nacional come provides a calmer view of the stage. Rua highly recommended for their purist Augusta 609, Consolação(2339 0351/ musical aplomb, and Wednesdays are beco203.com.br). Open midnight-late rammed for Dona Inah and her group. Wed-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$10; Rua Horácio Lane 21, Pinheiros (3814 caipirinha R$14; cover R$20-$40. 4087). Open 9pm-3am Mon-Fri; Café Aurora Located in the always1pm-3am Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. happening Bixiga section of Bela Vista, Prices cover R$15-$20; chope R$5-$6; this house is a hot spot for rock lovers. caipirinha R$7.50-$9.50. The bar, small dancefloor – where the Pau Brasil Bar Walk into the body live shows take place – and relaxing heat of this packed little hole-in-thelounge give it a homely feel. Rua Treze wall bar, named after the pau-Brasil de Maio 112, Bela Vista (3237 1247/ (Brazilwood) tree out front, and you cafeaurora.com.br). Open 8.30pm-late may feel like you’ve discovered São Tue-Sun Prices R$25-$40. Paulo’s most authentic Brazilian Cine Joia This former cinema close boteco. And you might even be right. to the Praça da Sé opened its doors in This hidden gem in Pinheiros offers 2011, revealing to the world a diamondan excellent roda de samba (samba shaped bar, elegantly sloping parquet circle), with Tuesday’s roda featuring floors (promoting good views, even exclusively São Paulo samba. Rua from the back) and a top-notch videoInácio Pereira da Rocha 54, Vila mapping system. So far, the lineups of Madalena (3816 1494). Metrô arty indie have been 2, Vila Madalena. Open as disarming as the 10pm-late Wed-Sun. stunning mosaic Prices small bottle façade outside. Praça beer R$4.50Carlos Gomes, 82, $6.50; caipirinha Liberdade (3231 R$10; cover 3705/cinejoia.tv). R$7-$10. Open 9pm-late, Vila do u z y a K rr days vary – check Samba This Espaço d Japanese cu website Metrô 1 no-frills joint bar an d a sushi-cum é k a s Liberdade. Prices specialises With a upstairs, an tairs, this is s e wn small bottle beer R$8; in live ‘roots’ hous fuel. joint do vodka with cranberry samba, played noodle lace for pre-gig t u p O e g th tin juice, R$16. in a ring in See Ea Hangar 110 This gritty, the middle of a long-established punk big, comfy yard. venue is in a grotty and desolate The audience, mainly downtown area. Shows finish early so twenty-somethings, know their the crowd can get the last metrô home, music and come to dance. Saturday because you don’t want to hang around has feijoada; Sundays churrasco. Rua late at night. Rua Rodolfo Miranda 110, João Rudge 340, Casa Verde (3858 Bom Retiro (9389 3365/hangar110. 6641/viladosamba.com.br). Open com.br). Metrô 1, Armênia. Open Tue-Thu 8pm-2.30am; Fri 9pm-4am; 7-11.30pm. Prices can of beer R$4; Sat 1-11.30pm; Sun 2-11pm. Prices cover R$10-$20. 600ml beer R$5.50; caipirinha R$10.

Abendblatt Hamburg, Hamburg, Germany

R. Bento Branco de Andrade Filho, 722 – Santo Amaro Ticket office: 11 5693.4000 or 0300 789 33 77 www.teatroalfa.com.br /teatroalfa

@teatroalfa

sponsor: support:

realization:

October 2013 timeout.com/sao-paulo 53 760 MUSIC_oct17_bia.indd 53

18/10/13 12:22

Football & World Cup 2014 Teaming up

Team-mates Rogério Ceni of São Paulo and Alex of Coritiba have joined the growing number of dissatisfied athletes

protest group: Bom Senso F.C. (Common Sense F.C.). Just two weeks after its creation, the movement already boasted more than a thousand members, including Rogério Ceni (São Paulo) as the club’s spokesperson. Twenty players defined the critical issues in five principal areas: the national football calendar, player holidays, an adequate pre-season, the financial transparency of clubs, and the inclusion of players in discussions with the game’s governing entities. It’s rare for footballers to unite

press image

The mass protests held by the Brazilian people who took to the streets denouncing the state of the country’s education, health and transportion systems will undoubtedly dominate end-of-year retrospectives in the media. But another issue close to Brazilian hearts has recently received increased media attention: football. Players from the country’s principal clubs have united to fight for better conditions as a result of the CBF’s (Confederação Brasileira de Futebol) revised fixtures for 2014. Due to the FIFA World Cup, which will interrupt the Brasileirão championship for 45 days, the organisation has rescheduled the dates for all national championships. As a result, the ball will start rolling earlier for the state tournaments, which in turn means a shortened pre-season period and less holiday time for players – 17 days at the end of the year and 13 during the FIFA World Cup – instead of the usual 30-day break. Following the announcement of the new schedule, and disappointed with the muted response from the Federação Nacional dos Atletas – the organisation that theoretically represents athlete’s rights, players such as Alex (Coritiba), Paulo André (Corinthians), Juan and D’Alessandro (Internacional) have joined forces to independently create their own

Find to the our month of SP’supcoming ly guide matc thre at tim e main te hes am eout.c sao-pa om/ s ulo

Jonathan Campos/Gazeta do Povo/Futura Press

Footballers are banding together to demand better conditions. Cecília Gianesi reports

LO ONLIONK E

Changing the laws of the game Bom Senso F.C. discusses pivotal issues

for better terms of employment, but it’s not the first time this has happened in Brazil. Democracia Corintiana, led by the legendary Sócrates, Casagrande and Wladimir, fought for increased player rights but their victories were confined to Corinthians; Bom Senso F.C. seeks improved conditions for all players. While the movement’s primary objective is to improve the quality of the national game and to protect those who play it, ultimately, it aims to bring the same level of infrastructure employed in major European championships to Brazil. The thinking behind these demands is quite clear: longer preparation time and fewer games should ensure increased efficiency and make players less prone to injury. The game and the fans also stand to benefit from matches that demonstrate greater technical skill. And a more interested public means increased club profits – a win-win situation for players, fans and clubs alike, epitomised in the movement’s motto, ‘Better Football For All’. Aside from the swelling number of players involved, Bom Senso F.C. has already garnered important support from other

areas. Washington Olivetto, founding partner of one of the country’s largest advertising agencies, WMcCann, has assumed responsibility for the movement’s image. The Universidade de Futebol, an organisation that studies the game’s technical aspects and its management, has provided statistics to support the players’ demands. Team management at Cruzeiro, Botafogo and Corinthians have already shown their support, as has the Minister of Sport, Aldo Rebelo, who stated that the national fixtures need to be better balanced. While the nation’s most celebrated athletes are revered, they don’t generally enjoy a reputation as critical thinkers, so it’s interesting to see this group criticise the system and fight for its rights. Clearly, if the sport’s calendar intensifies and the demands of the game increase, it’s the players who will suffer most. But if Bom Senso F.C.’s proposals are accepted, football should become more competitive as players can take to the pitch with more focus, fully invested in their beloved game. And ‘o país do futebol’ (‘the country of football’, as Brazilians call it), will surely be grateful for the results.

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17/10/13 16:07

SP Essentials

shutterstock

Map 56 Resources 58

Holy heights Located downtown, the impressive neo-gothic SĂŠ Cathedral is the largest church in the city

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17/10/13 16:09

Resources Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

HEALTH For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil. Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. For security reasons, it’s best not to carry an original passport around, but it’s easy enough to get a copy of a passport certified at the offices of a notary public (cartório). As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação

da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

instant São Paulo

INST

@timeoutsp

TELEPHONES DiaLling & codes

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

cipriano batista (@Cipypedia)

EMERGENCIES

Out and about in São Paulo? Snap the city on Instagram and tag the photo with #timeoutsp for the chance to see it on this page. This month, a super-sized smiley looks out from the half-finished building alongside the MASP, taken from behind by Cipriano Batista (@cipypedia). tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

your licence was issued. Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

CYCLING

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit). The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App, or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand. Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

WALKING

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único. Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket. A ride to any destination costs R$3 and

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot. The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo. com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img.org. br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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