Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.37/dez. 2013

GET MORE OUT OF Sﾃグ PAULO TIMEOUT.COM/SAO-PAULO 16 DECEMBER 2013 - 15 JANUARY 2014 R$ 9,90

Edition h s i l g En 37 Issue #

The

+ THE HOBBIT + PERUVIAN DINING + WORLD CUP COUNTDOWN

summer Eating al fresco, parks and pools, and the best ice creams in town: everything you need to stay cool COVER_37_bia_10dez.indd 1

ISSN 2179-894X

issue

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

You can also find copies of Time Out

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S

t

MANHATTAN

São Paulo magazine at the city’s best newsstands, at the SPTuris stands in Guarulhos and Congonhas airports, and at Movida Rent a Car.

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This month in São Paulo 16 December 2013 - 15 January 2014

City Beat The word on the street.

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Shopping & Style

8

Features Martin Freeman

10

Summertime

12

Film 46 An epic adaptation of a Brazilian

The star of The Hobbit films and TV’s Sherlock talks to Time Out about fame, fans and fitness.

As the weather heats up, enjoy the best of SP’s parks, pools, ice cream parlours and al fresco eateries.

novel trilogy comes to DVD, plus this month’s film reviews.

Gay & Lesbian 49

ER COV RY STO

Clubs, bars, cafés and outings: our pick of the city for SP’s LGBT crowd.

Food & Drink

Music & Nightlife

20

New bites

Reviews of the Peruvian spot Rinconcito Peruano, the contemporary daring of Mimo, and a roundup of the other openings around town.

Bars & Cafés

Football

54 With the groups sorted, only time

33

stands between the Brazilian national team and a chance at satisfying the home crowd.

SP Essentials 55 Essential information for visitors,

40

and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your image in print.

Press Image

The Brazilian digital photography of the last decade gets its due with the release of a new book, Geração 00.

50

The duo Jorge e Mateus mosey into town for three nights of musica sertaneja.

Karavelle, a microbrewery from São Paulo state, opens its first brewpub in an upmarket location.

Art & Museums

44

From mega-malls to crafts and antiques markets, find what you’re looking for, citywide.

Glass candy Splashes of colour at the playful, innovative restaurant Mimo

Quote of the month

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover photography Shutterstock

Marie Ange Bordas/Press Image

Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

It ended up being quite a gruelling shoot – less so for me than for others. At least I wasn’t carrying 50 kilos like the dwarves with fat suits, armour, equipment, clothes.

Those beards alone weighed a kilogram.

Broad horizon Marie Ange Bordas’s photograph from ‘Geração 00’

Martin Freeman Actor See page 10

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City Beat

Claudia Jaguaribe/press image

The Big Picture

From on high Claudia Jaguaribe’s shot captures the helipad on top of the FIESP building on Avenida Paulista, with tantalising glimpses of the city beyond. It’s one of twelve photographs chosen to be part of a collector’s set, and to form the first edition of the annual Academia Paulista de Fotografia, promoting São Paulo photography in all its diverse forms. See the full set on display at Livraria da Vila in Shopping Cidade Jardim (see Shopping listings). 21 Jan-23 Feb.

press image

São Paulo insider Top tips from the Time Out team Bookstores are always good for whiling away some free time. If you’re not careful, however, the three-floor Livraria Cultura inside the Conjunto Nacional on Avenida Paulista may devour your entire day: it’s happened to me twice when I was only trying to get out of the rain. It’s the inviting, comfy chairs and piles of books at every turn, which make it difficult to keep track of the outside world. You don’t even have to leave when you get hungry – the store café serves great pão de queijo (cheese bread) and strong espresso.

CM Gorey, Contributing Assistant Editor. Livraria Cultura is at Avenida Paulista 2073, Jardim Paulista (3170 4033/livrariacultura.com.br).

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Find us online … timeout.com/sao-paulo

Stay up to date with the best of what’s happening in São Paulo daily by heading to timeout.com/ sao-paulo. Join us on the social networks too: we’re on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Time Out São Paulo is published by Editora Dansville Ltda.

Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil.

Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini

Follow us on Twitter for our daily pick of São Paulo’s best gigs, exhibitions and events @TimeOutSP_en

Tell us what you love about the city on our Facebook page – facebook.com/ timeoutsaopauloenglish

Snap São Paulo and share it with us on Instagram, using the hashtag #timeoutsp.

Follow us at @timeoutsp

Coming up online

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy Editor (Portuguese) Fabiana Caso Contributing Assistant Editors Rafael Argemon, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Christopher Mack, Christine Puleo Proofreader Marina Monzillo Rio de Janeiro Editor Alice Moura

From art exhibitions to gigs, festivals, historic tours, and the inside track on hundreds of bars, botecos, cafés and restaurants, timeout.com/sao-paulo is packed with the best São Paulo has to offer.

Coming up online

Design Art Director Bia Gomes Designers Luciana Benatti, Marcella Franco Design Intern Rafaela Garcez Print Production Marcus Vinicius Lopes Contributors Text Geoff Andrew, Nick Aveling, Catherine Bray, Harriet Gibsone, Joshua Rothkopf, Bella Todd. Photo Alexandre Moreira

Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro

josé cordeiro/spturis

Heloísa Bortz/Teatro Alfa/press image

Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro

Administration Finance Analyst Sueli Maria da Silva

New Year’s Eve See in

2014 with millions of other party-goers at the annual openair bash on Avenida Paulista.

The line-up of performers is still firmly under wraps. j.mp/revpaul

The nutcracker Christmas in São Paulo wouldn’t be quite complete without the annual performance of The Nutcracker (O Quebra Nozes), at the Teatro Alfa. Until 22 Dec. j.mp/TOSP_nut

last month’s most viewed

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD David Woodley International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

Red bull station See an ex-

hibition of the works produced by the first artists’ residency at the brand new Red Bull Station – a multi-use venue in a former electrical substation. j.mp/RBStat

Press image

press image

lost art/red bull/Press image

No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.

Stanley Kubrick From

recreations of iconic sets from Kubrick films, to letters from fans and critics alike, delve into the world of the legendary filmmaker.

Until 12 Jan. j.mp/KbrkMIS

Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Eskenazi Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

Al Fresco fish Five ways to

eat wrigglingly fresh fish outside the bounds of restaurants. Start off with the next ‘Ceviche Sunday’ stall outside trendy eatery Suri. 22 Dec. j.mp/fishres

The key to our five-star rating system

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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JAY BROOKS

Elementary Martin Freeman resurfaces from Middle Earth to talk with Nick Aveling about his ongoing roles in The Hobbit and TV’s Sherlock, and the key to dodging fame

I

’ve been doing interviews for years,’ says Martin Freeman, ‘and in all that time I’ve virtually never read one and gone, “Yep, factually and tonally that’s exactly what happened”.

Pretty much never.’

Well, this is awkward. Or at least it would be if today’s interview – conducted across an oceanic glass coffee table in Mayfair’s Claridge’s Hotel – hadn’t gone bounding off script. Ostensibly, the 42-year-old is here to promote his starring role in The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug, the middle film in director Peter Jackson’s three-part return to Middle Earth, following last year’s billion-dollar grossing The

Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey. And of course there’s Sherlock, back for a third series in Brazil in the first half of 2014 on BBC HD. Between the projects, for a couple of weeks, anyway, Freeman will be the biggest star on Earth.

But neither bears much in the way of news: The Hobbit, for all Jackson’s intervention, remains a 76-year-old story; and every conceivable explanation behind Sherlock’s death-defying leap at the end of the last series has already been speculated, counter-speculated, and counter-counterspeculated at least twice. So instead of dwelling on dwarves and detectives we move on to other subjects. Naturally, Morgan Freeman, gay porn and the trouble with interviews are among them.

Your character, Bilbo, developed quite a bit during The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey.

What can we expect in The Desolation of Smaug?

‘This is the film where Bilbo becomes totally invaluable to the group – he’s not a mascot or someone to be patronised. In fact, he saves their arses on numerous occasions, so he’s really, really needed.

He finds more character, more backbone, than he knew he had.’

Bilbo does a lot more fighting this time round.

Was that fun?

‘I do enjoy fighting, actually. Fighting wargs [giant wolves kept by orcs] is good fun.’

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The

TIME OUT interview

And how do you simulate that?

‘Usually it’s the stunt team dressed in green-screen kind of ninja outfits carrying a big fucking head that you’ve got to stick with a sword or whatever, so that when it barges at you you’ve actually got something to react to.’

Do you get proper training in terms of that?

‘Yeah, you do quite a lot if for no other reason than fitness. It ended up being quite a gruelling shoot – less so for me than for others. At least I wasn’t carrying 50 kilos like the dwarves with fat suits, armour, equipment, clothes. Those beards alone were a kilogram. But I still had to stay healthy.’

The last time you spoke with Time Out was just before the release of An Unexpected Journey. Our interviewer suggested your life was bound to change. Have you yourself had to develop more backbone?

‘I remember having those conversations before The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy came out [in 2005] and thinking, fuck, is everything going to change?

And it didn’t, really. I’m a big believer that life changes as much as you want it to. If you invite in all the madness, it will. If you don’t, if you kind of let the world quietly know that, “No thanks, I still want to get on the train and live my own life,” then somehow it doesn’t have to.’

So celebrities are at fault for their own lack of privacy.

‘That’s a cruel attitude – if someone’s unhappy, you should leave them alone, even if they wanted attention five minutes ago. But I do think – in a very real, common-sense way – that if you want to be famous, you can be. It’s not a great talent; if you put yourself forward, it will happen to you.’

Given the amount of speculation around the last episode of Sherlock (in which the detective fakes his own death), are you at all worried the big reveal might be anti-climactic? ‘[Sherlock writer] Mark Gatiss actually said that himself. There’s something slightly mundane in knowing the truth of a thing. It’s like asking [illusionist] Derren Brown to explain one of the amazing things he does. When he tells you, you’re likely to go, “Oh, right, erm...” I still think it’s going to be satisfying, though. Loads of people have fucking gone to town on how they think it happened and some have been quite close. We have some fun with that in the show.’

PRESS IMAGE

Do you feel more bad-ass in your personal life having had that training?

‘I know if I get started on by a warg or if any elves step to me, I’ll be fine.’

Taking another stab it Freeman’s Bilbo Baggins asserts himself in ‘The Desolation of Smaug’

dragon in the upcoming Hobbit film – have both said you’d like to do a fourth series of Sherlock, but so far the BBC have kept mum.

Have there been any formal discussions?

‘I think we can safely assume that before the century is over there will be more Sherlock.’

Both The Hobbit and Sherlock breed cultgrade, Kool-Aid slurping devotion. Are there any obvious differences between each group of fans?

‘If you want to be famous, you can be. It’s not a great talent; if you put yourself forward, it will happen to you’

Does the reveal come early on?

‘I’m going to try to tell the truth here. Oh Christ, I can’t remember which episode it is. We just finished [filming] the third one a couple of weeks ago and…

I think it’s revealed relatively early.’

‘In this country, anyway, Sherlock is watched by millions and millions of people: your uncle, my cousin, that teacher, that fucking librarian, that plumber. Normal folks. But the ones who really make themselves known are almost all women between 16 and 21. It’s a very clear demographic. As for Hobbit fans, there are clearly shitloads of them given how well the film did, but they’ve been a bit more reticent, actually. They’re very polite.’

You and co-star Benedict Cumberbatch – coincidentally the voice of Smaug, the titular

Your longtime partner Amanda Abbington [‘Mr Selfridge’] plays Watson’s love interest,

Mary Morstan, in the upcoming series of Sherlock – which of course doesn’t bode well for the perceived romance between Watson and Sherlock. Some fans were so distraught they tweeted her death threats.

‘It’s ridiculous. To me, they’re not fans of the show – they’re fans of a show going on their heads.

Obviously I love Amanda and I want everyone to react positively to her; she plays a fantastic character and brings a hell of a lot to the third series. If people want to imagine John and Sherlock fucking they’re more than welcome to, but it will have no bearing on what we do in the show.’

You’ve just signed on to Fargo, an American telly series based on the Coen brothers’ Academy Award-winning film.

‘It’s in the same universe as the film, there’s a similar tone, but it’s not based on the film in terms of plot. My character’s great; there are similarities between him and William H Macy’s character [from the 1996 film]. Billy Bob Thornton’s in it too, and his character comes along and teaches mine to take control in ways that aren’t always saintly.’

Have you started to work on the accent?

‘I’m having Skype lessons and, well, pride comes before a fall but I think I’m doing OK. It’s daunting. I don’t want to rip off Bill Macy’s accent, or rip off an accent that’s already passed into comedy, so I’ve been on YouTube to see how real Minnesotans sound. Trouble is, some accents lend themselves to comedy. They just fucking do.’

The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug (O Hobbit: A Desolação de Smaug) is out now.

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Summer in the city DOMITILIA & D’ALESSANDRO/PRESS IMAGE

The beautiful beaches of São Paulo’s coast may be a couple of hours away, but there’s no better time of year than summer, with half the city out of town, to get out and about in São Paulo. Plan your perfect sunny day with our roundup of the best parks and pools for sun-seekers, fine ice cream parlours for cooling down in, and al fresco eateries for outdoor dining on balmy evenings 12 timeout.com/sao-paulo December 2013 - January 2014

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SESC BELENZINHO

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bia gomes

parque do ibirapuera

Parks & pools PARQUE DO Ibirapuera

The best known of the city’s parks is a maze of wide lawns that are perfect for stretching out on.

While you won’t find any pools for a dip, you can get some respite from the rays with a stroll around the shady 1.5km running trail. Cool off on your way round at one of the mist machines (look for the big buttons on the sides of what look like information boards), or with a refreshing água de coco (coconut water, R$3-$6). Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera, Ibirapuera (5574 5177).

Open 5am-midnight Mon-Fri; 24 hours Sat, Sun.

PARQUE Villa-Lobos

The nearest beach may be a good 70km drive away, but there’s no need to let the city’s concrete corridors cast a shadow over your day. You can get yourself, sunblock and book in hand, to a park or pool in next to no time. We round up our favourite sun-soaked spaces – and shady spots – for a relaxing São Paulo summer day

With large swathes of unshaded grass dominating the vista, this hangout for fitness freaks is ideal for those who don’t want to have to chase the sun throughout the day. To get the sun on your bod, guys are allowed to take their shirts off and girls can wear bikini tops, though with shorts or a skirt on the bottom. Them’s the rules, folks. Avenida Professor Fonseca Rodrigues 2001, Alto de Pinheiros (3023 0316/parquevillalobos.sp.gov.br). Open 5.30am-8pm daily.

PARQUE da aclimação

Swans, waterfowl and turtles are the local layabouts at the huge lake that forms the centrepiece of this park. Better for shade rather than sun, the park has a tree-lined track that circles the lake, drawing out joggers as well as families and locals out for a stroll. Rua Muniz de Souza 1119, Aclimação (3208 4042). Open 6am-8pm daily.

Clube-Escola Lapa Swimming Pool (‘Pelezão’)

This community centre has one of the best public pools in São Paulo. Actually, it has two large swimming pools, both well maintained and with access for disabled patrons. Brave swimmers can slip down the twisty waterslide. Rua Belmont 957, Alto da Lapa (3834 0032). Open 8am-5pm Mon-Fri; 8am-1pm Sat, Sun.

Clube-Escola Pacaembu Swimming Pool

Dedicated sunbathers lie out on the colourful bleachers surrounding this Olympic-sized pool, with occasional dips in the water to cool off. To use the pool, you must join the club, but it’s free. Just take your ID (RG or RNE), proof of SP residence and a 2x2-inch photo. The membership card is ready in four days, and when you go pick it up, you have to do a medical exam. Praça Charles Miller, Pacaembu (3664 4650). Pool: 8am-4.45pm Tue-Sun.

SESC

Several SESCs – a chain of non-profit community centres – have great pools catering to those looking to perfect their stroke or go for a casual swim.

For the most fun in the sun, try SESC Itaquera’s 5,000 square-metre pool, with waterfalls, fountains and eight water slides. SESC Belenzinho also has an outdoor pool. To use the aquatic area at any SESC, you must be registered and have proof of a recent medical exam. See sescsp.org.br for addresses, operating times and other information.

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AT AVILA STEAKHOUSE YOUR CELEBRATIONS ALWAYS BECOME UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS. Apart from our stylish lounge, we also offer a special second floor dedicated to private gatherings.

There are 5 closed menus including the best dishes of our "a la carte" options at an unbelievable value.

Avila Steakhouse is ready for any kind of event, whether it's a corporate one, "secret santas", farewell parties, weddings, engageme baptisms, birthdays and more. engagements,

RESERVATIONS +55 11 3167.2147 • reservas@avilasteakhouse.com.br

www.avilasteakhouse.com.br

Rua Bandeira Paulista, 524 • Itaim Bibi • São Paulo

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Ice cream parlours Frida & Mina

Thaís Antunes/press image

Summer sun and the local penchant for all things sweet will leave you spoiled for choice when it comes to cooling treats.

So we’ve picked out some of our favourites, leaving you to decide: which flavour of ice cream?

Frutos do Brasil

Bacio di Latte

DILETTO

Cuor di Crema

Frida & Mina

Cold Stone Creamery

The sixty or so flavours of ice creams and sorbets here are an education in local fruits, many of which most Brazilians won’t have even heard of, like araticum and brejaúba. Opt for an ice lolly – aka popsicle – or pay by weight. Rua Áurea 351, Vila Mariana (5084 8014/frutosdobrasil.com.br). Prices Ice cream R$6.50/100g; popsicle R$4. Other location Rua Aimberê 493, Perdizes (2373 7691).

The vertical churner can be spotted through the window by the entrance to this Italian-style gelateria, slowly blending the gourmet ingredients. Inside, choosing between the twenty or so flavours can be an an equally lengthy process. If in doubt, the pistachio is an excellent choice. Rua Manuel Guedes 394, Itaim Bibi (3071 3147/courdicrema.com).

Prices cafezinho R$3.30; small ice-cream R$9.

Join the queues waiting to try the divine ice cream at this chic spot on Rua Oscar Freire, with branches popping up all over town. The gelato machines, ice cream cabinets and even the spatulas were all imported from Italy, but the ice cream is made right here.

Rua Oscar Freire 136, Jardim Paulista (3662 2573/baciodilatte.com). Prices cafezinho R$4; ice cream R$8-$12. Other locations Citywide.

Refreshing ice lollies are another paulistano favourite come summertime, and Diletto, with its heavenly ice creams on a stick, are reliably good.

You can find the popsicles in many city cafés and restaurants, and now in cones and pots at the brand’s first dedicated ice cream parlour. Alameda Lorena 1969, Jardim Paulista (gelatodiletto. com). Prices ice cream R$12.

Organic milk is in the custard base for the ice cream, churned out daily, at this new artisanal venture. The approach here is as fresh and local as it comes, with the coffee flavour made using beans from the SP countryside, and the mint chocolate chip flavour made using Bahian chocolate. Rua Artur de Azevedo 1147, Pinheiros (2579 1444/fridaemina. com.br). Prices cafezinho R$5; ice cream R$7-$13.

Fresh on SP’s ice cream scene since October 2013, the international franchise Cold Stone Creamery’s reputation precedes it: Employees scoop out your ice cream, slam it on the counter and squish in mounds of toppings. The whole heap gets mixed into one gigantic mess, which is then neatly placed in a cup. Rua Gaivota 1350, Moema (5093 4487/ cscreamery.com.br). Prices from R$8.50. diletto

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Bacio di Latte

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bar des arts

brado

This backyard restaurant of hip boutique-cum-gallery Cartel 011 features a menu as eclectic as the venue itself, and conjures an informal yet fashionable al fresco dining experience. A canopy of trees and glass roofing covers a scattering of wooden tables and chairs, and a wood-decked bar. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (4305 7727). See Restaurants listings.

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This charmer of a restaurant features Brazilian cuisine and two gardens: The front-bar patio has a touch of its Bahian sister restaurant’s beachy style, with wooden furniture and colourful cushions, while the stunning back garden is an expanse of vegetation. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 471, Jardim Paulista (3068 8486/ capimsanto.com.br). See Restaurants listings.

Come summertime, some like to dash from one air-conditioned climate to another, while others revel in the chance to dine outside.

If the latter fits the bill, make the most of the summer evenings at these outdoor eateries

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tadeu brunelli/press image

Dining al fresco

Feed Food

capim santo

Pairing an eclectic menu with a colourful, open-plan space that spans the ground floor and yard of a 1950s white-washed brick house, Brado charms by day, with sunlight shining through the vines on the yard’s glass roof, and enchants by night, when legions of hanging candles are lit. Rua Joaquim Antunes 381, Pinheiros (3061 9293/bradorestaurante.com.br). See Restaurants listings.

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Rômulo Fialdini/press image

This picture-perfect bar-cum-restaurant features mostly French and Italian cuisine, with the odd touch of Brazilian, and is great for lunch on a sunny day, when you can sit out in the garden of the former mansion and choose between the excellent lunch buffet and à la carte options.

Rua Pedro Humberto 9, Itaim Bibi (3074 6363/ bardesarts.com.br). See Restaurants listings.

O POTE

O Pote recently emerged from a revamp complete with a new name, new chef, new eclectic menu and new decor, but thankfully the same leafy, secluded garden out the back. Rua Joaquim Antunes 224, Jardim Paulistano (3068 9888/opoterestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$79.

TOKYO ROSE

This new, gourmet sushi joint’s two-storey space is striking, clad in black trellises, with velvet banquettes and soft yellow lighting throughout. The open-air spaces in the front and out back are perfect for summer evenings. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 457, Itaim Bibi (3168 9580/ tokyorose.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 7pm-1am Thu-Sat; 4pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$27-$57.

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés

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TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

Eating Out Bars & Cafés

Pick and mix Salad of apple, goat’s cheese, beetroot sorbet, walnuts and young leaves (R$31) at Mimo

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Eating Out Reviews Rinconcito Peruano

speciality: we ordered a familysized portion (RS$98) last time we went, and excellent as it was, it was way too much for four. A small or medium-sized serving (RS$27, RS$52) will do nicely, especially since it’ll leave room for some of the menu’s other delights: classic ‘lombo saltado’ (R$17), a jumble of flash-fried strips of tender beef, peppers, crunchy onion and fat potato chips, served with rice; Peruvian-style breaded,

Latin love Grab a table inside, or up on the restaurant’s open-air mezanine

fried chicken (‘pollo broaster’, R$14, with fries); or just a heap of simple but delicious chaufa rice – egg-fried rice with your choice of slivers of meat, chicken or seafood (shrimp, octopus and squid, R$17). Of the filling soups, the Minuta (R$12), is our top tip: a subtly savoury, soulwarming broth enriched with milk, harbouring a tangle of angel-hair pasta at the bottom of the bowl.

Just for fun, finish up with one of the colourful, children’s-party-style desserts, which are of the wobbly, jelly-and-custard variety: vanilla blancmange with jelly (gelatina com flan de baunilha, R$3), or jelly with a milk mousse (mousse de leite, R$3).

Night-time in this area is far from salubrious – in fact, it’s not recommended at all. These are mean streets often haunted by cracksmokers, and night-times round here are a queasy blend of deserted roads and very unsavoury characters.

Come in the daytime, when the area is busier (but with your wits about you arriving and leaving), and find yourself a table on Rinconcito Peruano’s breezy, open-air mezzanine

alexandre moreira

China meets Peru For a filling plateful of a Peruvian favourite, go for the chaufa de mariscos (seafood fried rice)

alexandre moreira

Through an unmarked door and up a flight of battered stairs in one of the shabbiest parts of town – Santa Ifigênia, in deepest darkest Centro – this simple-as-possible Peruvian restaurant has become a word-ofmouth sensation over the past year or so. It’s a million miles, in more ways than one, from the handful of swish Peruvian and Peruvian fusion restaurants that have opened in recent months – think Osaka and Maremotto – and from upscale La Mar (see listings) in Itaim, brainchild of the celebrity Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio, whose Lima restaurant Astrid & Gastón, picked up Restaurant magazine’s Best Latin American Restaurant award in September 2013.

Rinconcito Peruano is all about cheap, cheerful, deftly cooked food in no-frills surroundings, and it does absolute justice, with its blend of utter simplicity and more complex flavour combinations, to Peru’s magnificent national cuisine. And if you’ve already acquired a taste for ceviche – fresh raw fish and seafood, ‘cooked’ in a lemon/lime marinade – then get ready to be ecstatic. The ceviche here is fresh, firm, generously proportioned and served the traditional Peruvian way – with ají chilli, red onion and toasted corn, on a bed of potato and sweet potato.

Start with a cold bottle of beer and a fresh, tender pile of the fishy

alexandre moreira

Traditional and affordable Peruvian fare is a downtown hit

Proud Peruvian Owner Edgar Villar floor upstairs, for a long lunch featuring some of the finest, bestvalue food you can get in São Paulo.

We like it that much. Claire Rigby Rua Aurora 451, República (3361 2400). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-11pm Tue-Sat; noon-9pm Sun Main courses R$17-$98.

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10/12/13 17:26

Food & Drink

Mimo

Diner’s digest Culinary comings and goings around town

tadeu brunelli/press image

Ema Renata Vanzetto, the twentysomething culinary phenom from the Brazilian-Asian fusion spot Marakuthai (see listings), takes an introspective turn at her newest venture, Ema, recently opened in partnership with chef Aline Frey.

A part-time restaurant, open for dinner Tuesday through Thursday, Ema is an intimate space, kitted out with natural materials – think woods and stone – and is Vanzetto’s creative test bed, with a set tasting menu that draws on memories of her childhood on Ilhabela, on São Paulo’s northern coast. Rua da Consolação 2902, Jardim Paulista (3081 8358).

White out Copper tones and coloured glassware add a touch of warmth to the all-white interior of Mimo

tahini and a mint sauce (R$61.50).

The desserts rounded things off on a high – a hot-to-frozen-to-warm layering of chocolate soufflé topped with a subtle cardamom ice cream and a fluffy, salty caramel foam (R$17); and a fruit-and-vegetable salad (R$17), with tiny chunks of carrot, cucumber, mango, kiwi and strawberry flecked with basil and parsley and topped with a zingy ball of passionfruit sorbet, all swimming in a melon consommé, poured over in a flourish at the table. Catherine Balston

Sevillano Bistrô The Bahia-born, Seville-taught chef Claudia Almeida brings a contemporary Andalusian style to her new Spanish establishment.

Brazilian and Spanish flavours are incorporated into dishes like the foie de Miquit – foie gras stuffed with guava and coated in dried fruits, served with a Port wine reduction, basil oil and red berry jelly (R$65). Alameda Lorena 871, Jardim Paulista (3774 6877).

Rua Caconde 118, Jardim Paulista (3052 2517/mimorestaurante. com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon, noon-3pm, 7.30-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Fri; 12.30pm-4pm, 7.30pm-midnight Sat; 12.30pm-4pm Sun. Main courses R$31-$61.50; lunch R$33$36.80, couvert R$9-$12.

Rogério Voltan/press image

The clinical, all-white interior of Mimo calls to mind a laboratory.

Which wouldn’t be a bad analogy for this year-old restaurant in Jardins.

Each dish on the whimsical menu is described with no more detail than a list of ingredients, invoking the same sort of curiosity – if you’re that way inclined – as might the instructions for a chemistry experiment, wondering how big the bang will be when the component parts are mixed together. The geeky gadgetry of contemporary cooking is here, too, in jellies, foams and sous vides that add playful flourishes to dishes without becoming their raison d’etre.

The space is long and thin, with well-groomed couples sitting side by side, more often than not, along one wall, facing the bar, while larger groups liven up the ambience down the back. Once your eyes adjust to the pervading white, small details come into focus – the copper finish covering the bar and the stablesized front door; the delicate flower arrangements; and a striking tree encased in glass.

We weren’t offered the couvert, but happily slurped down the courtesy amuse-bouche – a small cup of perfectly seasoned vegetable soup. For starters, the ‘Lagosta.

Burrata. Erva Doce. Mimosa’ (‘Lobster. Burrata. Fennel. Mimosa’, R$39) was an interesting mix of textures and flavours, with the ingredients attractively presented on a piece of slate; chunks of creamy

burrata mozzarella, fresh orange and fennel slices, strips of lobster and – the only real let-down of the dish – cubes of mimosa (orangeand-sparkling-wine) jelly, that were neither smooth nor fizzy, but rather dense and grainy.

The ‘Purê de Mandioquinha. Pato.

Foie Gras. Cogumelos’ (‘Baroa potato.

Duck. Foie Gras. Mushrooms’, R$28) arrived as potato purée, shredded duck and mushrooms layered in a warm, comforting ensemble, though seemingly devoid of foie gras.

The main courses were less playful, but good, nonetheless; a tender filet mignon, with toasted brioche, asparagus spears, toasted crisps of cured ham, green leaves and an ovo perfeito – an egg poached to perfection for 45 minutes (R$46.50); and lamb ribs (a touch on the dry side) served with a Middle Eastern touch of zaatar spice mix, coalhada (milk curd),

tadeu brunelli/press image

Playful dining in a minimalist setting at this year-old restaurant

Fiore Chef Pedro Vita of Brado (see listings) has returned to São Paulo after a research trip to Italy, and opened Fiore in a renovated old house in Itaim Bibi, with the help of his father and grandfather.

Three generations put their own spin on a thorough and traditional menu, with dishes from across The Boot, such as lasagne alla Bolognese (R$38) and artichoke risotto (R$44). Rua Santa Justina 97, Itaim Bibi (3889 9900/ fiorerestaurante.com.br).

Juggling sweets The fruit-and-vegetable salad ingredients vary each season

Look-alike ‘False’ mussels, at Ema

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Food & Drink

Restaurant listings How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes.

We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

It’s a wrap AK Na Rua

NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro GREEK Acrópoles Paulistanos from

all over town flock here, spilling onto the pavement outside and drinking draught beer as they wait patiently for a table to come free. In fact, weekends can get uncomfortably packed despite the outmoded downtown location. The decor is beyond faded, with wonky photos of crumbling temples, and the veteran owners look like they might have had a hand in building the original Acrópolis.

The steaming kitchen rolls out Greek classics such as moussaka and baked lamb. Nothing’s spectacular – but it’s good, solid, home-made stuff. Rua da Graça 364, Bom Retiro (3223 4386/ restauranteacropoles.com.br). Open noon11pm daily. Main courses R$30-$60; couvert R$25-$45. BARGAIN ITALIAN Cantina e Pizzaria Piolin A true survivor on Baixo Augusta, where it once lived a solitary life in the midst of sex clubs, Piolin is a cheap and cheerful Italian spot where everyone, it seems, is a regular. That might have something to do with its long-standing popularity with theatre-land’s grafters – the house sponsors local performances, whose casts eat half price. Utterly unpretentious, the place has been open for 40 years under the guidance of José Alves de Godoy, known to all as Mosquito. Try his tried and tested invention – lasagna alla romanesca, with white sauce, peas, ham and mushrooms, and live it up with the luvvies. Rua Augusta 311, Consolação (3256 9356/cantinaepizzariapiolin.com.br).

PRESS IMAGE

We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Anyone who has passed AK Vila of late can’t have failed to spot the bright purple stall set up in the the hip restaurant’s front terrace, with a chalkboard ‘AK Na Rua’ (‘AK in the street’) sign. Welcome news for any fans of falafel or cheap eats – who isn’t? – the stall serves up the chickpea snack, shaped and fried on the spot and served with a choice of salad (R$15) or wrapped in flat bread with sweet, melting chunks of fried aubergine, tahini and houmous (R$10). Take it away, or pull up a pew to eat in the sunshine. AK Na Rua runs during the restaurant’s opening times. See listings.

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1.30am Mon-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; noon-2am Sun. Main courses R$41-$68 (for two); lunch R$17.50; couvert R$12.50. BARGAIN VEGETARIAN Lótus Restaurante Vegetariano An easy walk from Luz metrô and the Pinacoteca, Lótus serves up an ample lunchtime buffet with an Asian twist. Vegetarians who reject fake meat on principle will be horrified by the inventive range of soya-based meat substitutes on offer, lurking in the likes of meatballs, chicken nuggets, and even fake fish – which is curiously absent from the excellent veggie sushi. A smattering of Brazilian staples such as deep-fried pastéis and the Bahian bean-patties – acarajé – serve to remind you exactly where you are.

It’s all R$33.90 per kilo during the week, and R$35.90 on Saturdays, so load up your plate, but save space for the sumptuous desserts, including a fruit buffet that goes the extra mile with lesser-known seasonal fruits such as pitaya. Rua Brigadeiro Tobias 420, República (3229 6769).

Metrô 4 and 1, Luz. Open 11.30am3pm Mon-Sat. Prices R$33.90-$35.90 per kilo.

Consolação & Higienópolis ITALIAN Camelo What started out in 1957 as an Arabic restaurant serving esfihas and houmous has reinvented itself over the years, and is now one of the city’s most traditional pizza joints.

Vast, bright, busy and welcoming, Camelo serves crunchy-based pizzas, such as the house special – pizza Camelo – with endive, bacon, palm heart and olives, or a healthier rocket and sun-dried-tomato option. Rua Engenheiro Edgar Egídio de Souza 98, Higienópolis (3822 5050/ pizzariacamelo.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Fri-Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun-Thu. Main courses R$64-$116 (for two). Other locations Citywide.

ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom fettuccine is one example of why Carlota

wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy shrimp with parma ham risotto. The restaurant’s recreation of the classic Brazilian dessert known as Romeo and Juliet elevates a simple dessert to an exquisite guava soufflé in a queijo Catupiry (Brazilian cream cheese) sauce. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/carlota.com.br). Open 7pmmidnight Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$73; couvert R$11.

THAI Made in Thai Owned by the Brazilian chef Camila Paludi, who studied Thai cuisine on Koh Samui island, Made in Thai is a hole-in-the-wall joint just off the bustling Rua Augusta, which dispenses with decorum, serving up a handful of dishes inspired by Thailand’s spectacular street food culture. The simplicity is evident from the get go, with the menu scrawled on a blackboard and the unassuming Paludi cooking the orders in an open kitchen. On our visit, the Khao Pad – aromatic fried rice with Panang curry (R$20) – was light and creamy, albeit a bit mild to really excite, while the shrimp pad Thai (R$25) was light and full of flavour. Rua Augusta 1524, Consolação (3253 1677). Metro 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat. Main courses R$20-$24.

BRAZILIAN Rota do Acarajé They do a delicious acarajé here – a bean-paste patty in to which you stuff vatapá (shrimp paste), prawns, and lashings of chilli – which come conveniently minisized for sharing as a starter. For mains, try the Bahian moqueca – a spicy fish or prawn stew with coconut milk, enriched with a rainbow of tropical flavours. The no-frills decor and pavement tables all give the place an authentically unrefined Bahian feel – as does the friendly service, which is as agonisingly slow as it is in Bahia. Rua Martim Francisco 529/533, Santa Cecília (3668 6222/rotadoacaraje. com.br). Metrô 3, Santa Cecília. Open noon-11.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses R$54-$115 (for two).

ITALIAN Tappo Trattoria This dinky corridor of a restaurant, only ten tables long, serves fantastic Italian food and has a surprisingly romantic and cosy ambience to match. The carpaccio of filet mignon is succulent, while the ricotta balls cooked in a rich tomato sauce are tasty without overloading the palate. The main courses of lasagne Bolognese and spaghetti all’ amatriciana (with bacon, tomato and onion) are surprisingly light, defying the stereotype of carb-heavy Italian cooking. Rua Consolação 2967, Consolação (3063 4864/tappo.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Fri; 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39$74; couvert R$6.

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Food & Drink

Lapa, Perdizes, & Barra Funda

ingredients and straightforward (though feature here and there without being pricey) grills. The stinco de cordeiro pretentious – more of a playful approach (R$72, braised lamb shank) we had was to comfort food than a beginner’s fall-apart tender, and both the pork ribs attempt at contemporary cuisine. Leave starter (R$36) and the roast chicken (R$41) room for dessert – we loved the chocolate were superbly cooked. Vegetables brownie with intense coffee ice need to be ordered separately cream and a sour squirt of – three dishes should do for passion fruit foam (R$16). two people; and make the Rua Joaquim Antunes 381, smoky aubergine one of your Pinheiros (3061 9293/ choices. The long, thin space, bradorestaurante.com.br). l with a wood-decked terrace Open noon-4pm, 8pmFilia rs a at the front, has a striking, midnight Mon-Fri; noonSee B industrial-chic design with midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. bare concrete walls, naked Main courses R$22-$45; lightbulbs and faded grey lunch R$22-35; couvert R$6. leather upholstery. Rua Fradique Coutinho BRAZILIAN Consulado da Bahia 1240, Vila Madalena (3231 4496/akvila.

Brightening up a busy corner in Pinheiros com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, with its colourful, painted façade, this 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3.30pm, Bahian outpost serves all the usual 8pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 8pmsuspects, from moqueca (fish stew) and 12.30am Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main carne seca (sun-dried beef) to acarajé – courses R$33-$84; lunch R$36. deep-fried bean patties, served here in ECLECTIC Brado Young, buzzy and mini versions with the requisite fillings inviting, Brado welcomes you in, sits on the side. On warm evenings and at you down, surprises you with its weekends, groups and couples keep tables unconventional menu, gets you a little inside and out on the street busy, drinking giddy with decent Malbec for under caipirinhas or cold beers while tucking R$50 a bottle, and sends you on your into full meals, or simply grazing on bar way, happy, well-fed and not feeling out snacks. The dishes are generous, and may of pocket. In short, it’s our kind of place. feed two or more. Light eating options are The colourful, open-plan space spans the limited, however, and note that seafood is ground floor and yard of a 1950s whitesomewhat pricey. Rua dos Pinheiros, 534, washed brick house, and the menu is Pinheiros (3085 3873/consuladodabahia. eclectic, to say the least. Fish korma sits com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Sat; alongside the likes of chimichurri steak noon-10pm Sun. Main courses R$40and wok-fried chicken, while foams $84; lunch R$44.

STEAKHOUSE Fogão Gaúcho This

expansive steakhouse is a lone beacon of competence in a semi-industrial area in the north of the city. The quality of its cuts, the salting of the meat, and the skill at the grill all work in perfect harmony. Its superefficient waiting staff, clad in white shirts, leather boots and loose gaúcho trousers – scores it bonus points. The architecture – a series of bland cojoining rooms – is nothing to write home about, but the quality woods and marbles throughout, and an excellent bar area, make up for any design deficiencies. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767B, Barra Funda (3611 3008/fogaogaucho.com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm, 6-11.30pm Mon-Thu; 11.30am-11.30pm Fri, Sat; 11.30am10pm Sun. Fixed price R$69 Mon-Sat; R$85 Sun.

IN THE AREA

ITALIAN Mangiare Hidden away

in Vila Leopoldina, a fast-growing neighbourhood in the west of the city, Mangiare packs in as many diners as possible to its expansive but cosy former warehouse space. After initial teething troubles, Mangiare is now running like a finely tuned orchestra – pastas are served al dente, grilled meats are succulent, and the waiters are calm and collected. Don’t skip the delicious couvert of homemade breads. The maltagliati pasta with Bolognese ragoût (R$32) is a delicious option, but if you’re dining à deux, try the la vera bisteca alla fiorentina (R$120 for two people) – a T-bone steak covered in garlic and rosemary. To top it all off, the trio dell’amore (R$15), made with Brazilian AMMA chocolate, is a triple treat. Avenida Imperatriz Leopoldina 681,Vila Leopoldina (3034 5074/ mangiaregastronomia.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; noon5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Main courses R$32-$60.

Critics’ choice Cheap eats

ITALIAN Aguzzo Cucina e Vino An unassuming, stylish Italian in the midst of the Pinheiros bustle, Aguzzo is pleasingly pitched below the often exorbitant prices of eateries in neighbouring Vila Madalena.

The owner, Osmânio Rezende, learnt much of his trade as a manager in the Fasano group of five-star hotels and restaurants before setting up on his own in 2006, and still plays host to many a demanding Fasano client. Menu highlights include the gnocchi with butter, sage and Parmesan (R$54) – a beautifully simple dish which has won awards in the local press, and the fettuccine with lamb ragoût, seasoned with port and fig (R$56). Rua Simão Álvares 325, Pinheiros (3083 7363/aguzzo.com.br).

Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$49-$89; lunch R$49; couvert R$9-R$16.

ECLECTIC AK Vila The ‘AK’ in the name is for the chef Andrea Kaufmann, who ran a Jewish restaurant before setting up AK Vila in 2011. Classic Central European dishes such as goulash are now part of a thoroughly eclectic menu – think Peruvian soup alongside Scottish smoked haddock – with the main focus being on seasonal

Felipe Gombossy/press image

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

Le French Bazar Reasonably priced bistro bites, and all wines by the glass, make Le French Bazar a great choice for a mid-week meal.

Made in Thai Thai street food is on the pared-down menu at this lunchonly hole-in-the-wall spot. Grab a spicy green curry for R$20.

Maria Escaleira Eastern European comfort food is the mainstay of this friendly, family-run restaurant. Don’t miss the pierogi (R$29.50) – potato and cheese in ravioli-style parcels, topped with bacon.

ECLECTIC Feed Food The leafy backyard restaurant of hip boutique-cum-gallery Cartel 011, Feed Food serves up dishes as eclectic as the venue. The chef doesn’t always hit the mark, as we discovered with a somewhat bland pumpkin risotto (R$27). A better choice were the noodles crunch com frango ao curry (R$27) – a chicken curry topped with noodles, shaved carrot, and toasted almonds. And the wonderfully creative caipirinhas – think green fig and lime, or banana with ginger and rum – are unmissable. The same goes for the tapioca pudim (R$10), a beautifully presented dessert topped with baba de moça (a creamy egg yolk and coconut sweet) and a solitary purple pitanga berry.

Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (4305 7727). Open noon-midnight TueSat; 1pm-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$39.

VEGETARIAN GOA Chef and owner Augusto Pinto was one of the first chefs in São Paulo to use and promote organic ingredients, and continues to evangelise healthy, ecologically-aware eating through his courses and events.

The restaurant’s sumptuous decor, with red velvet banquettes and wrought-iron chandeliers, contrasts with the simple, healthy, lunch-only menu. Try the kibbeh with mint sauce or the delicious vegetarian cassoulet. The houmous and couscous also come highly recommended. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 1152, Pinheiros (3031 0680/goavegetariano.com.br). Open noon3.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$22.50-$28; lunch R$19BARGAIN $23.

JAPANESE Hamatyo Known universally as ‘that little place on Pedroso’, it takes only 20 bottoms to fill all the seats at this cosy, informal Pinheiros spot.

There are no pratos quentes (hot dishes)

here – chef Ryoichi Yoshida serves only sushi and sashimi, and has earned a solid reputation for his careful selection of ingredients, as well as the personal attention he gives to each customer. Watch in awe as the Japanese veteran plys his trade with precision behind the counter, all while keeping up a good-humoured banter. The sushi sets, while not cheap (R$85 for 14 pieces; R$170 for a more elaborate 16 pieces), are good value, and the variety, always seasonal, is truly impressive. Avenida Pedroso de Moraes 393, Pinheiros (3813 1586/hamatyo.com. br). Metrô, 4 Faria Lima.Open 6.3011pm Mon-Sat. Prices sushi set for one R$85-$170.

ECLECTIC Jacarandá Concealed behind terracotta walls, a garden path leads patrons to this simple, rustic restaurant, set around the eponymous jacaranda tree, encased like a jewel in a glass box. The streamlined ten-dish menu makes choosing a straightforward task, and covers dishes like tender pork ribs, served with roasted sweet potato (R$51) and grilled steak (Argentinian ‘chorizo’ cut) with roasted pumpkin and gravy (R$65). Vegetarians will love Jacarandá’s delicious pumpkin, spinach and Canastra cheese lasagne (R$39) – crunchy on top and creamy inside, with a sweet tomato sauce. To round things off, don’t miss the delightful pudim de doce de leite (caramel flan, R$12) before heading down to the restaurant’s basement piano bar – Tatu Bar & Palco – for a nightcap. Rua Alves Guimarães 153, Pinheiros (3083 3003). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses R$39-$65. Tatu Bar & Palco: 8pm-1am Thu-Sat. FRENCH Le French Bazar Dinner times at this corner French spot, with its cosy, candlelit setting, are largely compromised of couples, packed in close – a little too close, perhaps, if you don’t like being overheard. Team one of the classic bistro options – we enjoyed a tender entrecotê (R$36) and a deliciously seasoned steak tartare (R$35), both served with salad and crispy fries – with a French pear cider (R$18.75 per glass) or one of the interesting wines, all of which can be ordered by the glass, and which include a curious assortment from countries as far flung as Slovenia, Greece, Hungary, Israel and Morocco. On balmy nights, solo diners should opt for one of the tall stools set at the bar out on the street, in pole position for watching the world go by. Rua Fradique Coutinho 179, Pinheiros (2768 0504/lefrenchbazar.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$62; lunch R$26-$33; couvert R$5.10-$8.10.

ECLECTIC Marcelino Pan y Vino The team behind the excellent Lola Bistrot recently opened this no-frills restaurant, overlooking the Orleans jazz bar, and its large but unfussy menu includes hot dogs, burgers, wraps and the like. This isn’t fast food, though (and we’re not just talking about the painfully slow service) – the sauces are all homemade and meats are roasted in the wood-fired oven, which looms large in the open-plan kitchen.

Go for one of the gourmet wraps and sandwiches, or one of the sharing platters (small R$39, medium R$48), with a veggie version available as well. The fresh fruit juices are delicious and come served in a

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EASTERN EUROPEAN Maria Escaleira Both location and menu at this Eastern European restaurant are homely and unpretentious. Each of the sparsely decorated rooms contains just three or four tables, meaning big groups can take one over and raise the roof should the spirit move them, while couples may find themselves dining in discreet murmurs alongside just one or two other couples.

The Polish chef serves up comfort food that’s warm, delicious, reasonably priced and epitomised in dishes like pierogi (R$29.50) – a satisfying mix of potato and cheese in ravioli-style parcels – and bigos (R$30.50), a robust, intensely flavoured stew with pork meat, smoked sausage, bacon, tomatoes, mushrooms and sauerkraut. Rua Conego Eugenio Leite 1055, Pinheiros (2364 9913/ mariaescaleira.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6-11pm Tue-Thu; noon3pm, 6pm-midnight Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$28.50-$31.50; lunch R$23.90-$28.50.

BURGERS Meats This gourmet burger

joint has a funky vibe and a sense of soul that many of SP’s formulaic American diner replicas seem so short of. With soft-lighting, its name writ large in naked bulbs behind the bar, a decent wine menu

and a selection of cocktails, Meats clearly aspires to restaurant rather than casual diner status. The burgers are fat, juicy and pink on the inside, just as they should be. Combinations include the ‘zucchini’, a beef burger with goat’s cheese, courgette, bacon and mint sauce, or the ‘hooligan’ with cheese, bacon and horseradish mayo (both R$29). The fries (R$19) – a tasty mix of regular and sweet potato chips – were perfectly crispy. Less good were the chicken hot wings (R$24) – nice and spicy, but greasy rather than sticky. Rua dos Pinheiros 320, Pinheiros (2679 6323/ facebook: MEATS). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$13-$38.

MIDDLE EASTERN Pita Kebab The

owners of this local bar and eaterie may be Italian, but they make a mean kebab with their own blend of spices. Lamb and kafta kebabs are the stars of the show, served either wrapped up in pitta bread, or on their own with salad. For something lighter, go for the mini falafel balls or, for an Italian twist, grilled courgettes in raspberry vinegar. To drink, don’t miss the refreshing homemade lemonade with mint (suco de limão com hortelã) or the eclectic beer menu. Thursday and Friday nights get busy with a student crowd, packing out the leafy, glass-covered patio.

Rua Francisco Leitão 282, Pinheiros (3774 1790/pitakebabbar.com.br). Open noon-1am Mon-Thu; noon-2am Fri; 1pm2am Sat; 1pm-1am Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$13-$20.90.

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ITALIAN Vinheria Percussi Founded

in 1985 by Luciano Percussi, an Italian from Liguria, Vinheria Percussi quickly became a classic. Luciano’s daughter Silvia Percussi now runs the kitchen, while her brother Lamberto oversees the salon and the excellent wine cellar. The scaloppine di pollo al limone con gnocchi di ricotta e spinaci (chicken in lemon sauce with spinach and ricotta gnocchi) and the marvellous filetto al gorgonzola (filet mignon covered in gorgonzola sauce) are standout dishes. To finish, try the wonderful classic tiramisu made with mascarpone and coffee. Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite 523, Pinheiros (3088 4920/vinheriapercussi.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon4.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$47.40-$98.70; lunch R$48; couvert R$7.90-$9.70.

AUSTRIAN Wolf’s Garten Markus,

from the Alpine ski resort of Lech, opened Wolf’s Garten with his Brazilian wife Monica in 2007, bringing the only Austrian-speciality restaurant to town.

Markus, who takes pride in delivering the food to your table himself more often than not, has made this cosy home a surprising delight. Try the perfectly-cooked lamb cutlet, or the house special duck breast, served with banana da terra – plantain – followed by a phenomenal apfelstrudel. It’s not all fondue on the slopes. Rua Lisboa 284, Pinheiros (3088 4367/wolfsgarten. com) Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses R$38-$51; lunch R$23-$31; couvert R$9.

Jardins BRAZILIAN Capim Santo Morena Leite’s Jungle Book restaurant features two gardens. The front bar patio is reminiscent of Bahian beaches, with wooden benches and throw pillows; and the stunning back garden is fit for Amazonian royalty (to sit here, reservations are a must). For an appetiser, go for a pastelzinho (a small fried pastry) or duck rolls with tangerine sauce. The couvert comes with crackers and vatapá (fish paste with dried shrimp and dendê oil). Try the shrimp with pupunha (palm fruit) served in a green coconut shell. Last but not least, the waiters are attentive, warm, and entirely tuned in to the needs of the diners – they round out a perfectly divine dining experience. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 471, Jardim Paulista (3068 8486/capimsanto.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 12.304.30pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$43-$79; lunch R$53-$77; couvert R$16.50.

Food & Drink

mini carafe with a straw. Rua Girassol 451, Pinheiros (3034 0461/marcelinopanyvino. com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 1-11pm Sun. Main courses R$16.20-$34; lunch R$19.90; couvert R$3.50.

CONTEMPORARY Chez MIS The modern design aesthetic and a novel location in the garden of the MIS (Museu da Imagem e do Som) have made Chez MIS an instant hit with a fashionable crowd. So if you have to wait for a table, kick things off with a cocktail by the bar – though not, perhaps, the pisco sour (R$27), which was all pisco and not enough sour. Team your drink with the sublime cheesy fried polenta

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sticks (R$22) and goats cheese and grape bruschetta (R$32). Once seated, the cheeseburger (R$35) is a wellproportioned, tasty hunk of ground beef that was only let down on our visit by lukewarm shoestring fries. The mozzarella-filled gnocchi (R$43) is a safe bet, deliciously rich and covered in a nutmeggy cream sauce and topped with crunchy bread crumbs. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (3467 3441/chez. com.br/chezmis). Open noon-1am TueFri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. Main courses R$36-$99; lunch R$26-$32.

Fifth dimension Sakagura A1

ItaliAN Pizzaria Urca A look at the neatly charred underside of your pizza at Pizzaria Urca will have you purring with pleasure – and that’s before you’ve sampled the simple perfection of this classic thin-crust São Paulo pie. The joint’s fast, professional service and good value make it a great find for a beer (chopes R$4.80) and pizza close to Paulista. Swerve the industrial-style pudim de leite (flan), order another chope and enjoy the nofrills, family-style atmosphere. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 2401, Jardim Paulista (3284 7724/pizzariaurca.com. br). Open 6pm-12.35am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-12.35am Sun. BARGAIN Main courses R$33-$57.

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BRAZILIAN Dalva e Dito When in

Brazil, do as the Brazilians do with a daily dose of rice and beans. A taste of traditional Brazilian cooking at Dalva e Dito may just be the most expensive rice and beans you can eat in São Paulo, but many would argue that it’s worth the cost.

Chef Alex Atala, whose culinary prowess has gone global, has plucked the best of regional dishes from across the country at this sister restaurant to D.O.M. Unusual local ingredients from the Amazon to the cerrado create some really unique tastes such as the surubim, a fresh water fish served with a lemongrass sauce and jambu – a lip-tingling green herb.

To complete the experience, sit by the big kitchen window to watch the chefs at work. Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Jardim Paulista (3068 4444/dalvaedito. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon- 3pm, 7pm-3am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$110; lunch R$66; couvert R$17-$25.

Umami – the pleasantly savoury ‘fifth taste’ beloved by the food cognoscenti – is perhaps most commonly known in foods like Parmesan and soy sauce. Chef Shin Koike is using the taste sensation in a new, mostlyJapanese dinner menu dedicated to umami-rich foods at his casually elegant Itaim eatery, Sakagura A1. Put your taste-buds to the test with the likes of kobujime de peixe branco – white fish marinated in kombu seaweed (R$22, see photo). Until March. See listings.

ITALIAN Gero Refinement is the watchword at Gero, the supposedly lower-key scion of the Fasano fine-Italiandining family, where polished shoes, impeccable manners and a reservation are recommended. Gero serves traditional Italian dishes with elegance, and a price tag most suited to special occasions or expense accounts. The interior design is as discreetly moneyed as the clientele, with a wine list sophisticated enough to delight connoisseurs. Sink into the leather armchairs while you peruse the menu – the roast duck and oozing risottos are good choices, though the word is that Gero has seen better culinary days. Rua Haddock Lobo 1629 (3064 0005/fasano.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; noon4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$62$97; lunch R$86; couvert R$21.

town, there’s an almost constant throng waiting for tables outside this, the second branch of Le Jazz Brasserie. Here you’ll find the same awning, leather banquettes and wood furniture as in the original in Pinheiros, albeit with a higher ratio of designer bags in the clutches of the milling crowds. All the bistro classics are there – escargots, French onion soup, and croques of both the monsieur and the madame persuasion. There’s also beer on tap and rotisserie chicken, as well as cassoulet at weekends. On our last visit, we had an excellent goats’ cheese salad starter (R$22), though the house special – entrecôte steak (R$48.50) – was more raw than the requested rare, and the fries were lacking crunch. Rua Doutor Melo Alves, Jardim Paulista (3062 9797/lejazz.com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 12.30pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$24-$70; couvert R$7.

ITALIAN Girarrosto A jaw-dropping R$10 million was allegedly spent on this immense Italian eatery, which opened in early 2012 in the spot formerly home to one of the city’s best-loved bars, Pandoro.

Try the bigoli (thick strands of pasta, shaped using a special machine) with duck and juniper sauce (R$54). One bite and you’ll realise that you’re eating the same spectacular pasta you’d eat at the Fasano – but for less. Avenida Cidade Jardim 60, Jardim Europa (3062 6000/girarrosto. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sun (pizza only).

Main courses R$41-R$-69; couvert R$12.50.

FUSION/ASIAN Marakuthai Marakuthai

FRENCH Le Jazz Brasserie As one of the best reasonably priced restaurants in

minute wait. Rua da Consolação 3610, Jardim Paulista (3898 2977/morisushi. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Thu, Fri; 12.30-3pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.303pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$40.50-$126; fixed price R$71-$79; lunch R$53.80.

started out as a relaxed, upscale restaurant on Ilhabela before its beachside success spawned this urban sister. And though the much-praised restaurant’s name might suggest a straight up-and-down Thai joint, in fact Indian, Moroccan and Brazilian also get a look-in on the menu with dishes like the khiri khiri starter – prawn balls in a cashew crust with a saké and chilli sauce (R$24). The presentation is flawless, from the green tea in tall glass jugs with mint, herbs and citrus fruits to the food, thoughtfully laid out on attractive platters: all in all, it’s a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Nevertheless, we’d love to see a touch more oomph to the menu. Alameda Itu 1618, Jardim Paulista (3062 7556/ marakuthai.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 8pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noon-

3pm, 8pm-midnight Thu; 8pm-1am Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$29-$79.

FRENCH Marcel The lone weak point of this excellent restaurant is its location inside a tasteless block of short-let flats.

But get past that and you’ll be presented with a set of unforgettable dishes, superbly executed by chef Raphael Despirite. A starter of frogs’ legs in garlic cream is a case in point; as are the impeccable soufflés – whether they be of the smoky seafood variety, or a sweet dessert soufflé of cupuaçu – just some of the unusual dishes that make this fine restaurant such a memorable experience.

Rua da Consolação 3555, Jardim Paulista (3064 3089/marcelrestaurante.com. br). Open noon-2.30pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$107; lunch R$42-$48; couvert R$7.80-$12.80.

MEDITERRANEAN Ráscal With seven

branches throughout the city (five of them inside malls) Rascál spoils vegetarians silly with arguably the best salad bar in town.

For R$63, you can get your fill of quiches, marinated vegetables, cheeses galore, breads and green salads from among the forty different items, not to mention the speciality hams and hot dishes. If the salad bar feels too much like a healthy option, the pizza corner is generous, as are the pasta and grill sections. For a delicate and colourful meal, try the ravioli Ráscal – spinach ravioli with buffalo mozzarella in a fresh tomato sauce. Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulistano (3816 3546/rascal. com.br). Open noon-3.15pm, 7-10.15pm Mon-Thu; noon-3.15pm, 7-11.15pm Fri; noon-5.15pm, 7pm-11.15pm Sat; noon5.15pm, 7-10.15pm Sun. Main courses R$34-$69; buffet R$41-$63.

Other locations throughout the city.

STEAKHOUSE Rodeio One of São Paulo’s

original churrascarias, Rodeio was for decades a favourite with the city’s wealthy elite, the aroma of sizzling meats mingling with that of expensive perfume. Until, that is, its glamour started to go up in the smoke of newer competitors. Rodeio has – contrary to expectations – hung on in there, and regained some of its original lustre with a modernising makeover. Its recently-rising fortunes saw the opening of a second, slick branch, designed by illustrious architect Isay Weinfeld, inside the city’s luxury Shopping Iguatemi mall.

Don’t miss the sliced picanha (top sirloin) JAPANESE Mori Sushi / Ohka Platters and biro-biro rice studded with bacon. of beautifully displayed sushi await diners Rua Haddock Lobo 1498, Jardim Paulista at this bustling neighbourhood favourite (3474 1333/rodeiosp.com.br). Open in Jardins. Avoid the pricier dishes on 11.30am-3.30pm, 6.30pm-midnight the menu, and order the fixedMon-Fri; 11.30am-midnight Sat; price sushi rodízio to sample 11.30am-11pm Sun. Main slices of fresh sashimi and courses R$82-$150; couvert other Japanese-inspired R$24.50. Other location Shopping Iguatemi (See delicacies, including flaming e c ri -p d sushi (sashimi with cream The fixe f dishes. Shopping listings). cheese, doused in liquor and ’o ‘rodízio 71-$79 ITALIAN Serafina Beautiful set on fire), bowls of shimeji R$ people abound at this branch mushrooms, and squid rings. of a notionally Italian New York If you like tempura or temaki restaurant. Pretty young things seem hand rolls, just ask for them; they’re not to mind waiting – and seeing and also included in the rodízio price. The being seen – for up to an hour or more on two-storey, stylishly-decked-out space the front terrace, where chilled rosé and is popular with groups and fills quickly, bruschetta make the wait more tolerable. so arrive early or expect at least a forty-

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INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down classic restaurants. It’s centrally located – a handy place for lunch if you’re on Avenida Paulista – and decorated brightly and stylishly, if simply, with all-round windows and a circular bar in the middle.

Spot is an enduring Sampa favourite – so come prepared to wait, over a drink at the bar or outside on the terrace, for a table in the thick of the action, in amongst the chattering diners. On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty, though it came sadly unaccompanied – follow our lead and order some of the delicious roasted vegetables and smooth, creamy mash as a side dish. Alameda

Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot.com.br).

Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação.

Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71.

AMERICAN St. Louis Decked out in a smart, kitsch Americana style, this small, unpretentious US-style burger joint is a comfortable, well-managed spot that doesn’t try to be too many things to too many people. The result? A damn good burger that’s priced a touch more fairly than many other comparable São Paulo burgers. Fans of poivre will genuflect at the kitchen door after devouring the excellent Pepper Crust burger (R$28.50) – 220g of pepper-charred beef with Swiss cheese, grilled onions, crunchy potato sticks, pickles and Dijon mayo. Paired with the excellent fries and chased with raspberry lemonade, it’s a combo that teeters precariously on the brink of shock and awe. Rua Batataes 242, Jardim Paulista (3051 3435/stlouisburger.com.br). Open 6.30-10.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6.3011pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 6.30-11.30pm Sat; 6.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$18-$57.

BRAZILIAN Uni The four red claws of the

MASP draw visitors’ eyes up towards the suspended glass-box filled with one of the continent’s finest art collections. But down below street level, there are more delights to behold: namely the excellent restaurant, Uni. A sprawling fixed-price buffet is served at lunchtimes, with hot dishes bookended by delicious salads and a table

piled high with desserts. MASP, Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista (3253 2829).

Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp. Open 11am3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat, Sun. Prices buffet R$35-$38. Other location Rua Jorge Coelho 98, Itaim Bibi (3078 4059).

STEAKHOUSE Vento Haragano The

display of perfectly-charred carcasses laid across an open flame at the entrance to this gaúcho-style set-price barbecue (rodízio), hint at the restaurant’s ‘go big or go home’ approach. It’s pricier than many a churrascaria, but Vento Haragano faithfully delivers, most memorably with its garlic-laced picanha and the unusual wild boar served with jabuticaba jelly. The traditional gaúcho outfits worn by the staff smack slightly of Disneyland, and there’s no lack of tourists to complete the picture; but trust us: the meat is so good here, you won’t mind a jot. Avenida Rebouças 1001, Jardim Paulista (3083 4265/ ventoharagano.com.br). Open 11.30am4pm, 6pm-11.45pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am11.45pm Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun. Fixed price R$108 (w/out meat R$84).

Jewish Z Deli This run-of-the-mill albeit charming deli, with just a handful of tables and a self-service counter full of delicious salads, is Jewish dining at its best. Gefilte fish can be had here not just on Passover, but all year round; or for another taste of Eastern-European cuisine, try the vareniks – breaded meats and fish. The roasted chicken (Z Deli frango) and the cheese gnocchi aren’t to be missed, either. The catch is that since

the food tastes better than it looks, you’re liable to accidentally overeat, and spend longer here than you expected. If you have the time and the appetite opt for the all-you-can-eat buffet (R$45, or R$39 for just salad; R$55 on Saturdays), rather than the lunch menu (three hot dishes for R$39).

And while the prices may be steep, this is the closest you’ll get to Katz’s Deli outside of Manhattan. Alameda Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1350, Jardim Paulistano (3064 3058). Open noon-6pm Mon-Fri; noon4.30pm Sat. Buffet R$39-$55; set menu R$30-$39.

Food & Drink

Once past the queue, what Serafina is really about is good quality, reasonably priced Italian food. The menu options include imaginative and substantial salads as well as thin-crust pizzas, pastas and meat and fish dishes, each with plenty of choice on the healthy to hearty scale. Serafina’s newer branch, on the increasingly gourmet. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga in Itaim, commands a similar crowd and wait time. Alameda Lorena 1705B, Jardim Paulista (3081 3702/ serafinarestaurante.com.br). Open noonmidnight Mon-Wed; noon-1am Thu-Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26-$75. Other locations Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1051, Itaim Bibi (3079 1391).

ITALIAN Zucco A floor-to-ceiling glass exterior gives a sneak preview of the sleek, modern interior of this Italian restaurant.

Weather permitting, the windows slide right back to create an alfresco terrace backed by a vertical garden. The broad menu offers a modern take on traditional Italian cuisine. Fresh pasta is a good choice for a main course – try the squid ink taglioni with shrimps and clams. If there’s a queue for a table, pull up a stool at the bar and sip a glass of bubbly from the comprehensive wine list, or a Zucco Martini, with strawberry, vanilla-flavoured vodka and a balsamic vinegar reduction.

Rua Haddock Lobo 1416, Jardim Paulista (3897 0666/zuccorestaurante.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noonmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$44$98; lunch R$59; couvert R$12.90.

Other location Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Roque Petroni Júnior 1089, Santo Amaro.

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br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Fri; 7.30pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$110; lunch R$61; couvert R$9.

Mediterranean Di Bistrot Only the

tadeu brunelli/press image

most unobservant of diners will fail to notice the eclectic, and at times kitsch, decor as they step through the door at this Itaim restaurant. Think leopard print upholstery, cup-and-saucer chandeliers and a profusion of art. The eccentric personality of the original chef, Cassio Machado, is imprinted quite literally on the walls – the decor and showcase of paulistano art was created in homage to Brazilian artist Di Cavalcanti. The main attraction though is the outstanding food created by Mariana Fonseca, the new chef and owner, who has taken inspiration from Portugal and Greece, where she worked for many years. Be transported straight to a Greek taverna with the outstanding polvo grelhado – grilled octopus with paprika.

Don’t miss the chef’s signature dish – atum fresco – tender tuna served with a wasabi and mustard cream. Leave room for dessert: Fonseca’s creativity doesn’t stop at the mains. Try the terrine de goiabada (a guava sweet) with cheese sauce. Simply delicious. Rua Jacurici 27, Itaim Bibi (3079 9098/dibistrot.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$34-$58; lunch R$29.90; couvert R$12.

MEDITERRANEAN Enoteca Saint Vin

Meal deal Italian restaurant Tre Bicchieri has relaunched its menu, serving a different lunch dish every day mid-week. On Mondays, it’s roast chicken with mixed vegetables (see photo), following a salad or ravioli caprese (R$51).

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia STEAKHOUSE Ávila Steakhouse You’ll

be hard-pressed to miss Ávila Steakhouse and its elegant façade if you drive through Itaim. What’s not as evident, though, is that despite the name having been inspired by the beautiful Romanesque city in Spain, the grill’s format and inclination is Argentinean, serving cuts of meat like bife ancho (rib eye steak), bife de chorizo (striploin) and ojo de bife (rib eye core steak). But don’t miss the extraordinary bife parrillero, the special house cut which consists of the centre of the traditional entrecôte. The double-height space with a glass roof is bright and sleek, though not dissimilar to an upmarket hotel lobby, packed out with suits at lunchtime, and out-of-town visitors from nearby hotels dining out in the evening. Rua Bandeira Paulista 524, Itaim Bibi (3071 0728/ avilasteakhouse.com.br). Open 11.30am3.30pm, 6-11.30pm Mon-Thu; 11.30am12.30am Fri, Sat; 11.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses R$63-$96; lunch R$52.90; couvert R$13.

STEAKHOUSE Baby Beef Rubaiyat

The Iglesias family has over the years mastered the art of raising cattle. Their excellent home-reared beef is served in restaurants that combine austerity with an elegant modernity, and impeccable service.

The branches on Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima and Alameda Santos are both

favourites for business meetings. To see and be seen, however, park up among the beautiful people under the giant fig tree of the sister restaurant, A Figueira Rubaiyat, in Jardins. International jetsetters will also find a Rubaiyat restaurant in Madrid as well as Buenos Aires. It’s big business – the whole portfolio was bought by an investment fund for a whopping $59.5 million in 2012. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2954, Itaim Bibi (3165 8888/ rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-12.30am Fri, Sat; noon6pm Sun. Main courses R$38-$129; lunch R$65; couvert R$23. Other location Alameda Santos 86, Paraíso (3170 5100) CONTEMPORARY Cantaloup The

contemporary architect Arthur Casas, the name behind restaurants Kosushi and Kaá, has transformed this former bakery into an impressive restaurant space. Step through the 10-foot-high wooden door to a glass-roofed winter garden, and then on into the dining room, where the highceiling, exposed beams, white-washed brick and starched white tablecloths create a sophisticated, clean, industrial look.

The food, with roots in French and Italian cuisine, is given a well-presented, modern twist, and the wine cellar, on display in the restaurant, has 400 labels from 10 countries. Don’t leave without having coffee or you’ll miss the chance to taste the sublime petits fours. Rua Manuel Guedes 474, Itaim Bibi (3078 3445/cantaloup.com.

Saint Hundreds of wine bottles line the high-ceilinged entrance hall of this pintsized, candle-lit restaurant, with just 12 tables. Keeping things simple on the food front, limited Spanish and Italian-inspired options are written up on a chalkboard and presented at the table between each course. The wine list, on the other hand, is extensive, with organic and biodynamic wines from across South America. Ask the sommelier for help, though the best bottles come complete with robust price tags (up to $350). Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 811, Vila Nova Conceição (3846 0384/ saintvinsaint.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$45-$99; lunch R$49; couvert R$9.90.

MEXICAN Hecho en Mexico Few

Mexican restaurants here in São Paulo are worthy of the Meh-hee-coe in their names – but this is one of them. Hecho en Mexico is a simple and tasty taquería where you can get a good feed for under R$20. Team a cold bottle of Dos Equis with the totopos – homemade nachos served with salsa or (slightly bland) guacamole. Or try one of the ‘Pe Efes’, basic midday meals that come in lucha libre wrestler-sized portions with meat, rice, refried beans, guacamole and an optional fried egg (R$15.90-$17.90). We’ve yet to scope out the territory here after dark, but reckon the margarita machine and brightly-painted open courtyard at the back should make this the perfect setting for a cheap and cheerful night out. Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 538, Itaim Bibi (3073 0833/hechoenmexico.com.br).

Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat. Main courses R$15.90-17.90. BARGAIN

MIDDLE EASTERN Gibran There’s no

shortage of Middle Eastern delights in São Paulo, from humble lanchonete kibes and esfihas to some very fine dining

establishments. But with a menu of fresh, healthy Lebanese and other specialities, Itaim’s Gibran, more than most, serves the sort of thing you might find in a contemporary Beirut dining room – a million miles from the heavier, oilier dishes of much diaspora cookery. Soft pillowy esfihas with cheese and basturme – an Armenian form of pastrami – and the deeply savoury mohamara – a red-pepperand-walnut dip, less spicy than the classic Turkish version, are some of the don’tmiss standouts at this bright, airy bistro.

Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 296, Itaim Bibi (2083 1593/restaurantegibran.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm MonThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$14-$38; lunch R$22-$30.

FRENCH/ITALIAN Kaá Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek, with its eight lanes of traffic, might be the last place you’d expect to find one of the city’s most tranquil restaurants.

But behind an anonymous white wall lies a veritable Garden of Eden. Narrow and tall, the dining space at Kaá is dominated by a spectacular 8m-high and 70m-long wall covered in more than 7,000 plants native to Brazil’s Atlantic forest. Architect Arthur Casas’s aim here was to transport the diner away from the urban chaos: once inside, there’s no visual connection with the city outside. To get the full experience of rainforest elegance, a table outside must be reserved in advance. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 279, Vila Olímpia (3045 0043/ kaarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$68; lunch R$56; couvert R$13.

JAPANESE Kinoshita Improvisation is the key at this Japanese sensation.

Kinoshita practises a concept called Kappo cuisine: immaculately presented, unique creations prepared spontaneously by master sushi chef Tsuyoshi Murakami and his team. After a hearty welcome, the maître d’ directs you to menu gems such as mini Nametaki mushrooms caramelised in lemon and Shoyu conserve, delicately served in a hollowed lime. Innovations such as scallops and cod roe served in a lime and orange juice, downed in a martini glass, are joys to sample – with the accompanying steep price, of course. Rua Jacques Félix 405, Vila Nova Conceição (3849 6940/restaurantekinoshita.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$30-$75; lunch R$49-$68; couvert R$8.

PERUVIAN La Mar Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently. Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu.

Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce. The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth. Rua Tabapuã 1410, Itaim Bibi (3073 1213/lamarcebicheria.com). Open

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ECLECTIC Le Bou The name, the awning and the net curtains in the window have all the hallmarks of a French bistro. It’s hard to pass by Le Bou in the evening without being seduced by the soft homely glow emanating from within. Find a spot in the intimate room upstairs for a low-key dinner or slide in to the long bench lining the peachy-coloured walls downstairs, where a view of the kitchen gives a window on the action. Mid-week lunch time is buzzing when a local professsional crowd come for les plats du jour – a distinctly un-French menu of the day featuring dishes such as polenta or corn soup and a hearty main – Tarte Goiás – a dense chicken, olive and egg pastry-topped pie served with salad. The evening menu features French dishes such as cassoulet and steak poivre. Rua Bandeira Paulista 387, Itaim Bibi (3078 6704/lebou.com.br) Open noon-4pm Mon-Fri; noon-5pm Sat; 7pm-midnight Tue-Sat, Main courses R$28-$72; lunch R$22-$42.

AMERICAN P.J. Clarke’s Longing for the Big Apple? You can track down a karaoke bar in Liberdade and butcher a few stanzas of ‘New York, New York’, or hit this São Paulo clone of the famous Manhattan establishment once frequented

by Frank Sinatra. The NYC original created the ‘Cadillac’ burger, which was not only a favourite of the Chairman of

the Board but also of Marilyn Monroe.

PJ Clarke’s attempts to recreate (quite successfully) the post-war glory years sanctum of American authenticity, with tables draped in redchecked cloth – the old-style diner even had its chandeliers shipped over from New York. The ambience fits the home fries and the delicate onion rings perfectly. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 568, Itaim Bibi (3078 2965/pjclarkes.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; 9.30am-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26-$47; lunch R$37.

Other location Rua Oscar Freire 497, Jardim Paulista (2579 2765).

CONTEMPORARY Ruella A quaint pedestrian alleyway, lined with potted plants and tiled murals, doubles as Ruella’s entrance and alfresco dining space, scattered with a handful of tables.

Inside, the ample two-storeyed space is crammed with a hodge podge of colourful, cutesy furnishings. On the menu, you’ll find delicious salads, in combinations like brie, artichokes and frisée, bistro classics like steak tartare, and a selection of pastas. This is a good spot for a date (though it would be better still if the lights were dimmed a notch), with paper tablecloths and crayons on hand should the small talk dry up. Rua João Cachoeira 1507, Vila Nova Conceição (3842 7177/ ruella.com.br). Open 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Prices Main courses R$48$68; cover R$18.90. Other location Rua Vupabussú 199, Pinheiros (3097 9257).

SEAFOOD Rufino’s Considered by many of its regular customers to be the best restaurant in its native Guarujá – the coastal city 90 km south of São Paulo – Rufino’s well deserved reputation comes from a simple formula of preparing its ultra-fresh fish using classic Spanish recipes, cooked up by the restaurant’s namesake chef. Luckily for those of us in SP, Rufino’s has branched out of its seaside home to establish itself here as well. Try the ‘tranche de badejo’ (a slice of grilled white fish) or the bountiful grilled seafood platter, and you’ll quickly understand what the fuss is about. Rua Doutor Mario Ferraz 377, Itaim Bibi (3074 8800/rufinositaim. com.br). Noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThur; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$49-R$148; couvert, R$ 17.50. Other location Shopping Morumbi, Avenida Roque Petroni Jr 1089, Morumbi (5182 8599/rufinosmorumbi.com.br).

JAPANESE Sakagura A1 A new venture from the Japanese chef Shin Koike, of Aizomê fame, this Itaim sake-den-meetssushi-bar is a luxurious setting, with patterned dark wood partitions, brown silk sofas and an intimate, low-lit sushi bar downstairs. Brazilian and Japanese ingredients come together on the menu, in the ‘japas’ (Japanese tapas), the hearty mains and an assortment of noodle dishes.

The results can be hit and miss, however.

A grilled salmon main (R$39) we had was overpowered by its passionfruit sauce, and the kakiague udon (R$34) came with thick noodles swimming in a rather tasteless

dashi, topped with tempura vegetables which were a soggy mess within minutes.

Perhaps the sushi would be a safer bet. On the plus side, the portions are generous and the bill refreshingly low for this part of town. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 74, Itaim Bibi (3078 3883). Open noon-3pm, 6pmmidnight Tue-Fri; 12.30pm-midnight Sat; 12.30pm-10.30pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$69; lunch R$36-$70.

Food & Drink

noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35$60; lunch R$42.

JAPANESE Shigueru The veteran sushiman, Shigeru Hirano, who has been behind the counter at Tanuki in Vila Madalena since 2004, promises a more traditional approach to Japanese food in this clean, Zen environment. The menu changes with the seasons, so ask the staff what’s good. The bento boxes are a safe bet, but the adventurous should try the exotic house specials: uni (sea urchin), anago (eel), or foie gras (goose liver). For a mixed feast, go for the combinado that’s simply called Jô. Rua Leopoldo Couto de Magalhães Jr 275, Itaim Bibi (3079 2200/ shiguerusushi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon4pm Sun. Prices sushi set for 1 from R$33; lunch R$35-$46; couvert R$6.

ASIAN Tantra Although the nightly entertainment here can’t be beaten – a belly dancer with an albino snake and a sword – we recommend coming here for lunch.

This large warehouse, isolated in the heart of Vila Olímpia, has a fantastic Mongolian grill (R$29.90 for lunch on weekdays, and R$62.60 for dinner). Pick your ingredients

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ASIAN Tian Bringing a mix of cuisines to its menu, with nods to Thailand, China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam and the Philippines, Tian is a sleek, contemporary spot: pink glass separates the kitchen from the dark, sexy dining space, with a large window looking onto the pavement. The way to go is by ordering a sequence of dishes to share – start with the delectable squid rings fried in a beer-based take on tempura batter, with a kimchi sauce (R$22). The Tom kha, a classic Thai chicken soup, is smooth and intoxicating (R$20). Round off your personalised tasting menu with something sweet, like the koaniew mamuang (R$12) – moti rice with a coconut-and-mango sauce. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 36, Itaim Bibi (2389 9399/tianrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Thu, Fri; noon-4pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices Sharing dishes R$16-$38.

ECLECTIC Tiger The stripes on this tiger belong to two distinct cultures and three different chefs: one prepares Thai dishes, while two experts, one on hot and one on cold Japanese cuisine, complete the culinary triumvirate. The result? A bestof-both-worlds dining experience. The à la carte menu offers traditional dishes like pad thai, at R$70, as well as a variety of sushi, maki and tempura. The restaurant recently started serving alcohol for the first time; and the décor is a hit, with wooden furniture and sparkling white walls that reflect Tiger’s adherence to the principles of simplicity and good taste. Rua Jacques Félix 694, Vila Nova Conceição (3045 2200/tigerrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$80; tasting menu R$65-$110; lunch R$ 45; couvert R$4.

ITALIAN Tre Bicchieri If cooking were a Shakespeare play, fish would be its Hamlet. Done right, the most difficult of the Bard’s works will slay audiences.

Done wrong, and it can lapse into pomp and absurdity. Tre Bicchieri, which opened in June, serves a delicious robalo – a rich, flaky sea bass – in a light crust with perfectly crisped vegetables. For dessert, a Tre Brûlée: three pots of crème brûlée in vanilla, pistachio and orange flavours.

The orange was just a touch too sweet; the pistachio crème had just the right nutty tang, and the vanilla pud was creamy perfection – emblematic of a restaurant that doesn’t need to twist food into contortions to draw a crowd; that’s swanky without being ostentatious; and that does an excellent Hamlet without unnecessary drama. Rua General Mena Barreto 765, Itaim Bibi (3885 4004/trebicchieri.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am MonThu; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$55-$88; Other locations couvert R$10.

Shopping JK Iguatemi, Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, Vila Olímpia..

Three-wheeler Tian tuk-tuk

evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday.

Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/sisenor.com.br). Open noon3pm; 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42.

Other locations Citywide.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana

Victor Moriyama/PRESS IMAGE

Food & Drink

wisely, and hope that your choices match up. If you prefer a safer option, the limited menu offers a selection of pricier Asian and Pacific-inspired dishes. Rua Chilon 364, Vila Olímpia (3846 7112/ tantrarestaurante.com.br). Open noon3pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 6pm-2am Fri; 1-5pm, 7pm-2am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$32-$56; lunch R$29.90.

There may be no air-conditioning, nor Go-Go-Gadget wheels to avoid the grid-locked traffic, but a pink-and-white tuk-tuk, Bangkok’s preferred mode of motorised transport, is certainly a novel way to get to lunch in São Paulo. The recently opened pan-Asian restaurant Tian is laying on the pick-up service free of charge for its lunchtime customers.

Just ring the restaurant to arrange a pick-up within Itaim.

Available noon-2.45pm, Mon-Fri, Sun. See listings.

Ibirapuera & Moema ITALIAN Bráz We have heard it said that the pizza in São Paulo is so good, even the Italians are jealous. It’s a bold statement, but if you’re prepared to give it any credence at all, Bráz is probably a good place in which to make up your own mind, having been voted the city’s best pizzeria seven times by Veja. A typical meal, at the original Moema joint or any of the three other locations, should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas. There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu; but standouts include the Fosca (smoked ham, mozzarella and catupiry cheese) and the four-cheese Favorita, with taleggio, pecorino, caciocavallo and gorgonzola. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com. br). Open 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 6.30pm-12.30am Thu; 6.30pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-midnight Sun. Medium pizza R$44-$61. Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090).

BARBECUE Costelaria Moema It’s all

about ribs at this barbecue joint and the secret to its success lies in the engineering marvel tucked away in its kitchen. The tall ovens are specially designed to roast an entire side of beef ribs for forty hours at a low temperature. Gratification comes quicker, however: the ribs are sliced up and served still smoking, in eight different cuts, including the spaguetinho and matambre.

The simple but sizeable sides include fried polenta, fried plantain, rice, beans and salad. Avenida dos Imarés 758, Moema (5096 3213/costelariamoema.com.br).

Open 11.30am-4pm Mon, Tue; 11.30am4pm, 6-11pm Wed; 11.30am-11pm ThuSat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Fixed price R$55.90 (Mon-Fri); R$75.90 Sat-Sun. BUFFET Prêt no MAM Hobnob with

designers, journalists, artists and fashionistas dressed to kill at this stunning architectural gem with a fantastic (if pricey) lunch buffet, set inside the small Museu de Arte Moderna in Parque do Ibirapuera. The bright and lovely modern dining room is half-moon shaped, with glass walls that afford fantastic views of the sculpture garden designed by Roberto Burle Marx. On any given day, the dishes might range from salmon to meatloaf.

This is your best bet for quality food if you’re spending the entire day at the Art Bienal, or one of the myriad other cultural activities that take place in the park.

MAM, Parque do Ibiraupera (no number), Ibirapuera (5085 1306). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Buffet R$49-$56.

MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively Tex-

Mex themed bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families. The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheeseand-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos, accompanied by a fun, fairly lowbrow selection of cocktails. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday

VEGETARIAN Alfredo Despite being just a skip and a hop from Avenida Paulista, this vegetarian lunch spot has been mostly overlooked by the lunchtime crowds – although not by Captain Sensible of the Damned, who reviewed the place for us on his visit in April 2012. The new branch of the Alfredo that has been delighting veggies for over sixty years downtown is reassuringly unchanged: pay by weight for your pick of delicious salads and hot dishes, or go fixed price for all you can eat.

Happily, Alfredo do not renounce flavour along with flesh: they make the most of beans, quinoa, pasta and rice in their hot dishes and offer a selection of highly quaffable hot drinks for your post-prandial reverie, including ginger tea and dark, strong ‘coffee’ made from roasted corn.

Alameda Ribeirão Preto 160, Bela Vista (3251 4070). Open 11am-3pm. Prices R$31.90 per kilo; buffet R$21.90. Other location Largo do Café 14, 2nd floor, Sé, (3104 9970).

ASIAN Bueno This izakaya (Japanese resto-bar) used to be one of Liberdade’s best-kept secrets, but the chef, owner and friendly former sumo wrestler, Fernando Kuroda, relocated with his team in 2012 to a larger, more upscale setting in Jardins.

The space has ample seating, with stools at the bar to watch Kuroda at work, or rooms upstairs for a little more privacy. The menu is thankfully pretty much unchanged, though there’s now also teishoku at lunchtime – a Japanese set meal with miso soup, rice, vegetables and grilled fish or meat. In the evenings, don’t miss the slowroast pork belly, which delivers an ecstasy of sweet fatty goodness. Our favourite main is the okonomiyaki – a fried cabbage and pumpkin pancake topped with tom ka sauce and katsuobushi – dancing fish flakes. Or maybe it’s the isiyaki bibimpap (R$32) – a Korean dish served in a piping hot stone bowl, filled with rice, vegetables, beef and topped with a raw egg. Alameda Santos 835, Jardim Paulista (2389 8035/ izakayabueno.com.br). Open 11.30am2.30pm, 6-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-3.30pm, 6-11pm Sat Main courses R$10-$32. No credit cards.

ITALIAN Cantina Roperto When choosing a restaurant from a street chockfull of options like Bixiga’s 13 de Maio, the time-honoured trick of opting for the one with the longest queue is not one for the hungry. But for those willing to be patient, the huge portions of excellent pasta at this old-school classic are well worth the wait. At Sunday lunch, expect a roaringly full restaurant (and up to an hour’s wait); but once you’re seated, the good couvert and the poignant pictures of the once-semi-famous on the walls should keep you entertained until the mains arrive. Each pasta dish is plenty for two: give the spaghetti with homemade pesto or the carbonara a whirl, though nonBrazilian palates may find the penne alla

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CHINESE Chi Fu Just a quick hop from Liberdade Metrô lies the recently renovated Chi Fu. The clientele, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date). There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephone-directory-sized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best. The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap.

Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN KOREAN Cho Sun Ok Korean-food

virgins can’t go wrong at this Liberdade local: just order the Korean barbecue.

It comes with sweet beef and a huge helping of mushrooms and vegetables, cooked right there at the table (R$85), and is served with an array of side dishes including kimchi (fermented vegetables).

Pure shots of Soju (R$24, 360ml bottle), Korea’s national tipple – a kind of smooth saké, distilled from cereals – are de rigueur. Thankfully for your brain cells, the evening session closes early; but Cho Sun Ok also does a weekday executive lunch (R$48) with a spreads of hot and cold dishes chosen by the chef. Avenida da Aclimação 502, Liberdade (3271 9621/3208 2116). Open noon-3pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$29$50; lunch R$48.

STEAKHOUSE Dinho’s The star of the meaty menu at Dinho’s is the US-style prime rib – all 700g of it, packed with flavour and an immense Fred Flintstonestyle bone. The steakhouse, which was recently given a modernising makeover, draws a lunchtime crowd of top execs from the nearby Avenida Paulista. For a younger crowd, head to Dinho’s Steak House (Rua Jerônimo Da Veiga 153), owned by the same family Alameda Santos 45, Paraíso (3016 5333/dinhos. com.br). Open 11.30am-3.30pm, 7pmmidnight Mon; 11.30am-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Fri; 11.30am-1am Sat; 11.30am6pm Sun. Main courses R$120-$135; feijoada lunch buffet R$105 (Wed, Sat).

Other location Rua Jerônimo Veiga 153, Itaim Bibi (3079 1049).

approach, there’s little variation on the menu. First pick your broth (miso, shoyu or salt-based shio) then add optional – and genuinely spicy – chillies, followed by one of three toppings; a generous meat-free pile of carrots, onion and cabbage, or slices of roast pork, or the traditional topping with beansprouts, wakame (seaweed) and spring onions. The accompanying gyoza are fairly unexciting. If you’re visiting on a Sunday, why not head to the Liberdade street market for dessert? Rua Tomaz Gonzaga 51, Liberdade (3277 4286/ lamenkazu.com.br). Open 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6-9pm Sun. Main courses R$20-$42.

Food & Drink

puttanesca over-salted. Choose your wine with care: some of the Italian reds can be an unwelcomingly attention-grabbing part of the meal. Rua 13 de Maio 634, Bixiga (3288 2573/cantinaroperto.com.br). Open 11.30am-midnight Mon-Thu; 11.30-1am Fri, Sat; 11.30am-11.30pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$130 (for two); couvert R$7-$9.50.

BRAZILIAN Sobaria It might seem

unusual to find soba noodles heading up the menu of a restaurant specialising in food from Mato Grosso do Sul. But soba is standard street food in cities like Campo Grande, where Japanese immigrants settled at the turn of the 20th century. Whatever their origin, the noodles are the star of the show here, served with strips of cooked egg, grated ginger and spring onions in a bowl of steaming, meaty broth (R$24-$28). Other specialities include the comforting sopa paraguaia (Paraguayan soup, R$20) – a paradoxically solid corn cake made with cheese and onion – and the tender though slightly over-salted cupim ao leite – strips of meat from the hump of the zebu cow – served with rice and manioc chips. Rua Áurea 343, Vila Mariana (5084 8014).

Open 10am-11pm Mon-Thu; 10ammidnight Fri-Sun. Main courses R$22BARGAIN $38; lunch R$17.90-$21.90.

ITALIAN Speranza This is one of the most famous pizzerias in the city, founded in the late-1950s in Bixiga, one of the city’s Italian neighbourhoods per definizione.

Order a hunk of sausage bread as a starter, pending the arrival of the pizza of your dreams. Because take it from us: the pizza marinara DOC and the margherita caprese – made with an exquisite tomato sauce, all Italian ingredients and within the norms established by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana – are the kind of pizza you could find yourself dreaming of, once you’ve sampled one, for a very, very long time. Rua 13 de Maio 1004, Bela Vista (3288 8502/pizzaria.com.br). Open 6pm1.30am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-1am Sun. Main courses R$47-$68.

Other location Avenida Sabiá 786, Moema (5051 1229).

THE TRADITION OF THE BEST TASTE IN SAO PAULO LIVES ON

INDIAN Tandoor With only a handful of

Indian restaurants in São Paulo, curry cravings can be hard to satisfy unless you go the home-cooked route. However, with fresh flavours and an impressive range of dishes, Tandoor is a good choice. To try a good JAPANESE Lamen Kazu mix, go for the meatExpect to find the real based thali – a mixed deal at this Japanese platter that includes noodle house. The star rice, samosas, lentils, ingredient used to be raita, lamb curry and ade rd e ib L imported from Japan tandoori chicken – the Feira daay, don’t miss d until Lamen Kazu’s latter clearly cooked it’s Sun arby market.

If newer sibling, Espaço in a genuine clay oven. the ne Shopping Kazu, opened up over the Our favourite dish, See road along with space for though, was the perfectly the noodles to be made spiced chicken karahi – a from scratch. Whether it’s genuine taste of India. Our only a mid-week dinner or a weekend lunch, criticisms were the over-cooked naan expect to join a long-ish queue made up bread, slow service and a less-than-lively of hungry punters of mostly Japanese atmosphere. Rua Doutor Rafael de Barros extraction. Opting for a less-is-more 408, Paraíso (3885 9470/tandoor.com.

IN THE AREA

WINNER OF PALADAR AWARDS BY O ESTADO DE S. PAULO NEWSPAPER AS THE BEST SHRIMP PIZZA IN TOWN

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Food & Drink

br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10pm Sun. Main courses R$25.90$55.90; lunch buffet R$29.90.

the sweet rice powdered with cinnamon and the delicate sericaria do Alentejo – a milk-and-egg pudding – are delicious..

Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main courses R$58$98; lunch R$39; couvert R$17.

JAPANESE Uo Katsu Once upon a time

it was a fishmongers; today, Uo Katsu is a restaurant offering delicious sashimi charged by weight, with the sushi priced by unit. One of Paraíso’s hidden gems, the place is simplicity itself, with communal tables and footstools for seats; but the fish is always fresh – and all for a very reasonable price. Leave a tip when you pay to hear them call ‘caixinha!’, at which point everyone behind the counter will thank you. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, so arrive early or be prepared to wait. Rua Manoel da Nóbrega 1180, Paraíso (3051 5855) Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Prices sashimi (per 100g) R$6-$20; sushi (per piece) BARGAIN R$1.80-$8.50.

PIZZA Castelões This classic Italian

restaurant, located in one of the city’s traditional Italian neighbourhoods, was founded in 1924, and its dusty decor and antique pictures give it an authentically nostalgic feel that many newer pizzerias try and fail to copy. The Castelões pizza, with handmade sausage and mozzarella, is recommended, as is the house margherita; but no matter which one you pick, rest assured that the dough will be light, the crust scorched and sensual, the tomato sauce packed with basil, and it’ll be topped off with cheese of impeccable quality. Rua Jairo Góis 126, Brás (3229 0542). Metrô 3, Brás. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight daily. Main courses R$39-$64; couvert R$9.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini BURGERS H3 Hamburgology Treating the pursuit of the perfect patty as a science, Hamburgology H3 has branches open across ten São Paulo shopping malls. Each hamburger contains 200 grams of meat, grilled the way each customer likes it. But don’t plan on getting your hands dirty: burgers are served here without a bun – and with cutlery. You can team your burger with a choice of sides: fries, salad or – gasp – rice. There’s also a menu of sauce options to top off your burger.

Avenida Roque Petroni Júnior 1089, Morumbi (4003 4132/h3.com/br).

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sun. Burgers R$15.45-$22.95 (includes fries). Other locations Citywide

The West FRENCH Felix Bistrot Best saved for a weekend visit given its location way out in the western São Paulo suburbs, this pretty, exposed-brickwork restaurant has high ceilings, a showstopping mature subtropical garden, and a nice permeability between the inside space and the terrace.

Catering to a crowd of well-heeled locals, the menu blends French and Brazilian ingredients and techniques: the gratin oysters were a success – juicy, creamy and garlicky. The confit duck in an açaí

sauce also worked well, with the fruit offsetting the fattiness of the well-cooked duck. The entrecôte was less exciting – chewy, and with a dense brown sauce.

Rua José Felix de Oliveira 555, Granja Viana (4702 3555/felixbistrot.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sat, noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$37-$119.

The South STEAKHOUSE Fogo de Chão Brazil’s best-known barbecued meat franchise has three restaurants in São Paulo, plus branches in Brasília, Salvador, Belo Horizonte and across the USA. The owners are gaúchos, from Brazil’s South – the country’s cattle hotspot. So unlike some rodízios, Brazilian steak house restaurants, they don’t bother mucking up the menu with irrelevant sushi: just the best cuts of Brazilian meat, like picanha, fraldinha and maminha. Grab your pincers and select the bits you like the look of from the big chunks of deliciously salted flesh the waiters bring around. Note that Fogo has one of the most extensive wine lists in the city. For dessert, try the chocolate mousse with port. Avenida Santo Amaro 6824, Santo Amaro (5524 0500/fogodechao.com.br).

Open noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight MonFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Fixed price R$108 (w/out meat R$87). Other locations Avenida dos Bandeirantes 538, Vila Olímpia (5505 0791); Avenida Moreira Guimarães 964, Moema (5056 1795); Travessa Casalbuono 120 (Shopping Center Norte), Vila Guilherme (2089 1736);

Happy hour Baby Beef Rubaiyat

VEGETARIAN Recanto Vegetariano Overshadowed by skyscrapers along Avenida Berrini, this pleasant, all-inclusive vegetarian buffet serves some of the best organic food in town. Recanto Vegetariano exemplifies the energy of natural food lovers the world over: frustrated by the lack of fresh ingredients, these enterprising locals decided not only to open their own restaurant, but to also supply it with their own homegrown organic vegetables – the owners even provide photo proof of their agricultural prowess. Rua Flórida 1442, Brooklin (5506 8944/recantovegetariano.com.br).

Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$29. No credit cards.

VEGETARIAN Moinho de Pedra

Frustrated vegetarians will be in for a pleasant surprise at Tatiana Cardoso’s elegant restaurant. She trained in a number of vegetarian restaurants in San Francisco before opening her own place, where she combines creativity with seasonal ingredients. Head straight to the counter where you can choose from one of two daily specials – served with either salad or soup for R$35 or R$45 on Saturdays – or another main course option from the blackboard. White bean stews, grilled courgette tart, and mandioquinha (sweet parsnips) gnocchi with a fresh tomato sauce are just a few of the highlights. Rua Francisco de Morais 227, Santo Amaro (5181 0581/ moinhodepedrarestaurante.com.br). Open 8.30-11am, noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; 9-11am, noon-4pm Sat. Prices set menu R$35-$45.

The North BRAZILIAN Mocotó Serving up arguably the best Brazilian food in the city, Mocotó is a foodie’s delight. Located in the anonymous mass of higgledypiggledy houses in the far northeastern suburbs, what it takes to eat at Mocotó is time, both in getting there and waiting for a table; so come with patience and a hearty appetite. The restaurant’s young chef, Rodrigo Oliveira, creatively updates traditional North Eastern dishes such as baião de dois (black eyed peas, rice and a rennet cheese) or carne de sol – sun-cured beef – served with a whole head of garlic and baby chillies on the side. Oliveira even makes his own pork scratchings – torresmo. To finish, don’t miss the homemade ice-cream studded with pieces of rapadura – a solid fudge of unrefined sugarcane juice. And a shot or two of cachaça, don’t you think? – to aid digestion, of course. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (2951 3056/mocoto.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-11pm Sat; 11.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses R$16.90-$89.90 (for two).

BRAZILIAN O Compadre The Lar

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Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé PORTUGUESE Bacalhoeiro Tatuapé, in São Paulo’s endless Zona Leste, or East Zone, has been one of São Paulo’s fastest growing bairros in recent years, with deluxe real estate shooting up all over the place. It’s good news for gourmets, thanks to the ambitious new restaurants that just keep opening. This relaxed, elegant restaurant is one of them, and it serves a classic of Portuguese cuisine: bachalhau (salt cod). Kick things off with the octopus starter, fried in bacon fat with coarse salt, followed by the perfectly-salted bacalhau a lagareiro – salt cod with golden onion, served with garlic slices, broccoli, green olives and baked potato. For dessert, both

Rua Augusta 2077, Jardim Paulista (3062 2223).

Forget watery beers and deep-fried finger foods. For a more sophisticated after-work wind-down, sink into a leather chair at the Baby Beef Rubaiyat on Avenida Faria Lima, and work your way through the new tapas menu, with the likes of Pata Negra ham and tomato on toast (R$22, see photo), and a fruity cocktail (two-forone on drinks 5.30-8pm, Mon-Fri). See listings.

Center shopping mall, which mostly sells furniture, may seem an odd spot to find a restaurant, but O Compadre is popular, nonetheless. During the weekend, it packs out with families, and serves as a handy lunch choice for visitors to the immense, glassy Expo Center Norte convention centre nearby. In contrast, the restaurant’s rustic Brazilian farm theme comes complete with wooden rafters, cow hidecovered bar stools and wagon wheels. Fill up your plate at the buffet – there are sixty dishes, including beans, pastas, moquecas (fish stew), salads and some side dishes like fried okra and the bitter vegetable jiló, two of the house specialities. For grilled meats, order your favourite cut – top sirloin cap (picanha) and entrecôte are good bets – from the chef manning the charcoal grill at the centre of the buffet. Finish things off with one of their 200-strong line-up of cachaças from Minas Gerais. Avenida Otto Baumgart 500, Vila Guilherme (2252 3131/compadre.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-5.30pm. Price buffet R$59.90$66.90.

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Bars & Cafés Reviews

Bar listings

Karavelle

How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites.

We visits bars anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks. For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

tade brunelli/press image

NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Tank top Chandeliers and coloured lighting lend a touch of glamour to the new Karavelle brewpub

brews – indeed, it’s the only brand on offer – with the pleasantly surprising tasting selection (R$30), which features a reasonably sized sample of each brew: red ale, wheat beer, stout, IPA and two pilsner varieties. The Keller pilsner was the clear winner, with the other beers just slightly too sweet for our palate. There’s also a full

As if further proof of the rising popularity of microbreweries in São Paulo were required, Karavelle becomes the latest brewpub offering another option in the burgeoning artisanal local beer scene. Recently opened by business partners Dinho Diniz and Otavio Veiga along with singer/actor Seu Jorge, whose image appears kissing a bottle, beaming out at patrons from the many TV screens around the three-storey bar, Karavelle carefully walks the line between being a sexy low-lit nightspot, and a destination for beer enthusiasts.

On our visit, as a mix-and-match soundtrack of ’80s new wave and unnecessary dance music played, a post-work crowd had packed out the tables by the large stainless steel kettles on the ground floor, and up on the covered, open-sided rooftop lounge, where smoking is permitted (at least for those sitting by the veranda’s edge). Sample Karavelle’s

tade brunelli/press image

The São Paulo state microbrewer opens up its first brewpub

Big head Karavelle’s red ale

menu of spirits, but it’s best to avoid their own strange cocktail inventions, like the beer caipirinha (R$25.50) – beer, ice, lime and cachaça – which arrived with a salted glass rim, and tasted as confused as it sounds.

For snacks, the coxinha de ossobuco (osso buco croquettes, R$28.50) and the fried squid rings (R$35.70) are both solid choices, although overpriced for the rather small portion sizes.

Karavelle is one of São Paulo’s more ubiquituous craft beers – the São Paulo state countryside label is making its way into most of the city’s supermarkets, as well as being on tap in a few bars, such as Wall Street and Frangó (see Bar listings). And while the suds at the brand’s brewpub aren’t necessarily worth a special trip, this spot makes for a decent happy hour meeting point nonetheless – if you order carefully. CM Gorey Alameda Lorena 1784, Jardim Paulista (3044 7555/karavelle.com. br). Open 5pm-late Tue-Fri; 3pm-late Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$6.90-$14.

Bar da Dona Onça Don’t be misled by the ‘bar’ in the name – this classic Centro destination is as much restaurant as watering hole, and its extensive menu, including pasta and meat dishes, draws crowds for both lunch and dinner. It’s well worth a visit even if it’s only to suss out the location, tucked in on the ground floor of Niemeyer’s iconic Copan building, and within walking distance of many of the city’s historic sights. Inside, tongue-in-cheek leopard-print decor and wood panelling lend a cosy charm. Don’t miss one of the delicious sharing dishes like the aptly named croc milanesa – a sensationally crunchy beef schnitzel sliced up for sharing. Rua Ipiranga 200, loja 2729, Centro (3257 2016/bardadonaonca. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon11pm Mon-Wed; noon-midnight Thu-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7, caipirinha R$18.

Papo, Pinga e Petisco This informal, lively bar is right on São Paulo’s bohemian frontline – on the bustling pavement of Praça Roosevelt, alongside a handful of alternative theatre companies. The bar’s name means ‘chat, cachaça and snacks’.

There’s a cut-out of Elvis surrounded by flashing lights outside, racks of old vinyl inside, and its big wooden tables are invariably full of loud chat, expansive gestures and oh, go on then, a saideira: the Brazilian version of one for the road.

Praça Roosevelt 118, Centro (3257 4106).

Metrô 3, República. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-2.30am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11.

No credit cards.

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Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda

Drosophyla With a chaotically colourful, charming decor – a style they call ‘contemporary baroque’, but which might be better described as ‘eccentric gentleman artist’s upmarket squat’ – this discreet little bar is popular with a slightly older, more bohemian crowd. From the outside, it’s just a quiet doorway on a gloomy street. But inside, the main event is a leafy, warmly illuminated garden scattered with mismatched tables and chairs. Glowing with lights at one end is a cosy little shed with a bar inside; and up a flight of steps is a smoker’s patio which even has a few plants choking in the fumes. Rua Pedro Taques 80, Consolação (3120 5535/drosophyla.com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 7pm-2am Mon-Wed; 8pm-2am Thu; 8pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$13; minimum spend R$20-$40.

Casa do Espeto There are more espeto (grilled meat on a stick) options here than you can, erm, shake a stick at, from sausage to queijo coalho and even chocolate-coated strawberries, carried around by circulating waiters.

But it’s not the food that is the real draw here: it’s the sprawling maze of a garden hidden out back, which sets this Perdizes branch apart from the Casa’s three other locations across town. Live music or football projected on enormous screens give added appeal. Rua Cotoxó 582, Perdizes (3676 0436/casadoespeto. com.br). Open 6pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$7.50; caipirinha R$18 cover R$5.

Other locations Rua Mourato Coelho 1022, Vila Madalena (3032 5191); Rua Padre Carvalho 525, Pinheiros (3812 0173).

Z Carniceria This converted butcher’s shop makes no attempt to hide its origins, with stuffed cow heads, a gory butcher’s mural and butcher hooks hanging from rails on the wall. They say they’re not morbid, just raw, like crazy Rua Augusta, bustling past in the dark outside. We agree. The decor gives it a delightfully perverse, alternative feel, and the place buzzes happily to match with a crowd revving up for the nearby clubs. Rua Augusta 934, Consolação (2936 0934/ zcarniceria.com.br). Open 7pm-1am Tue, Wed; 7pm-2am Thu-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$16; cover R$25-$30 (Thu-Sat).

Dona Felicidade Vila Romana, near Perdizes, is off the central São Paulo beaten track, but regulars of this friendly, down-home establishment say Dona Felicidade (‘Mrs Happiness’) is worth the trek for the milk pudding with coconut (R$8) she serves. The lady herself declares it will make you faint; but diehard clubbers swear by its restorative powers after a heavy night out. Rua Tito 21, Vila Romana (3864 3866/donafelicidade.com.br).

Open 11.30am-1am Tue-Fri; 11.30am8pm Sat, public holidays; 11.30am6pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$12.

Mon-Fri; noon-3am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.

Valadares In spite of its annual ‘best boteco’ awards, Valadares – a bright yellow corner boteco in Lapa – has kept its local charms: from the faithful clientele to the walls adorned with framed football shirts that cross the ages and divides, from Deco to Rivelino.

The menu is an unconventional nibbles nirvana. The thought of a breadcrumbed bullfrog, rã touro à milanesa (R$12), might not leave you salivating, but it has plenty of delicious light, white meat. Cocks’ testicles (testículos de galo) weren’t available, sadly, when we visited, but bulls’ balls (testículos de boi) in garlic (R$26.90) are apparently a firm favourite.

The drinks menu is as extensive as the snacks, but the batidas (cocktails whizzed up in a blender) go down well.

Rua Faustolo 463, Lapa (3862 6167/ barvaladares.com.br). Open 11am12.30am Mon-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$3.50; caipirinha R$10.

Genial The tiled floors, the old-fashioned charm and the good-natured bustle of this classic Vila Madalena choperia make it a good place to watch a football game on a Sunday afternoon, or to tuck into a plate of pasta late on a Tuesday night.

It also has a pleasant patio out front and a games room with a pool table. Rua Girassol 374, Vila Madalena (3812 7442/ bargenial.com.br). Open 5pm-3am MonSat; noon-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.

Mercearia São Pedro Straightforward and buzzing, this boteco is something of a city institution, doubling up as a bookshop and video rental joint, with shelves stacked with old VHS tapes, dust-covered books and erotic manga comics. Head here for the cheap buffet lunch (R$18), though in the evenings expect slow service and to wait at least an hour for a table.

For more immediate gratification, squeeze through the groups of media and artsy types gathered outside and order a beer at the bar inside, where you get the sense that things can’t have changed much since it opened more than forty years ago. Rua Rodésia 34, Vila Madalena (3815 7200/ merceariasaopedro.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 11am-midnight Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$12.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bowtied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel. But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon. Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent red-and-black bar with some of the best cocktails in town.

Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (3815 1364/barastor.com.br/subastor.com.br).

Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-1am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu-Sat, noon-7pm Sun. Prices chope R$6.40; caipirinha R$19.

Cervejaria Nacional No beer in São Paulo travels a shorter distance from barrel to glass than at this microbrewery-cum-bar. Sit at the counter on the first floor overlooking the vast fermentation tanks below, or head up to the top-floor dining area for a cosier spot. If you like beer, go the whole hog with the degustação (R$19.90) – a 150ml sampler of all five of the home brews – a weiss beer, a lager, an India pale ale (IPA), a brown ale and a stout.

Friendly service and good food make this an excellent choice for a group night out: go for the live jazz on Tuesday nights and blues on Thursdays. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros (3628 5000/cervejarianacional.com.br). Open 5pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 5pm-1.30am Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat. Prices pint of beer R$15; caipirinha R$13; cover R$0-$12.

Filial This bar is owned by the Altman brothers, who opened their first Vila Madalena bar in 1980 and dedicated it to choro. Since then the bar, once called the Clube do Choro and now known as Filial, has moved around the area, but it’s still the after-show bar of choice for local musicians. There’s an impressive list of caipirinhas – try the cachaça with lima da pérsia (lime). Sit outside and watch the Vila Madalena wildlife stumble by.

Rua Fidalga 254, Vila Madalena (3813 9226/barfilial.com.br). Open 5pm-4am

Critics’ choice Best botecos

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Food & Drink

Consolação & Higienópolis

Bar Original It may have been running for just less than twenty years, but Bar Original has all the charm of a classic, old-school botequim.

Botequim do Hugo Go early to bag a seat for cold beer and hearty nibbles at this diminutive, family-run Itaim bolt-hole.

Valadares This long-running down-toearth Lapa local is best known for its batidas (caipirinha cocktails) and a choice of offal-heavy snacks, like bull’s testicles in garlic.

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All Black Somewhat incongruous with its designer neighbours on the chic shopping street, Rua Oscar Freire, All Black is nevertheless an upmarket take on the pub concept, with a black façade, dark wood throughout the interior and two big screens for broadcasting football and rugby matches (though don’t expect to catch a game on Sunday, as you’ll find it shut). All the usual suspects from across the pond are on tap behind the bar, including Guinness, at an eyewatering R$18 per pint, which can be paired with the Guinness burger (R$15) – a juicy beef patty with gooey mozzarella cheese, let down only by its side of fries that lacked any crunch. Rua Oscar Freire 163, Jardim Paulista (3088 7990/ allblack.com.br). Open 6pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 6pm-1.30am Thu; 6pm-2am Fri, Sat. Prices half pint of beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$15-$45.

Mercearia São Roque This neighbourhood bar-cum-eaterie, with a sister bar at the Jockey Club, and an even newer sibling, the Mercearia Grill (Rua Jorge Coelho 162, Itaim Bibi), may be hidden away down a leafy residential street, but it’s by no means a secret, filling out most nights of the week with a smart professional crowd.

The conversation, which flits between fun and fund management, reaches its peak on warm evenings when gangs of well-groomed guys and gals vie for tables outside. A comprehensive menu includes everything from nibbles, salads and sandwiches to full hot meals. Rua Amauri 35, Jardim Europa (3085 6647/ merceariasaoroque.com.br). Open noonmidnight daily. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$17.

O’Malley’s This big, noisy gaff would love to be called a traditional Irish pub, and a home-from-home for every expat in town. But O’Malley’s is just as popular with Brazilians as it is with homesick airline pilots looking for someone to talk to – or more – on a layover. It’s more like one of the chain pubs you find inside London railway stations than a cosy country boozer; but there are beers from Mexico, the Czech Republic and Belgium, and there’s nowhere better to get drunk while watching Irish rugby, if that’s your bag. Alameda Itú 1529, Jardim Paulista (3086 0780/omalleysbar.net).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-4am Mon-Thu; noon-5am Fri, Sat; noon4am Sun. Prices pint of beer R$7-$20; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$35 (after 10pm).

Skye Regarded as one of the city’s modern architectural wonders, Hotel Unique’s half-moon design is certainly eye-catching. And it’s the only place many visiting star DJs and other high flyers will stay. Consequently, the hotel’s signature rooftop poolside bar is as selfconsciously fashionable as you might expect – but the view and the pool are simply stunning. Order a mojito and lounge on one of the outside deck chairs under the mood-enhancing lighting. Hotel Unique, Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700, Jardim Paulista (3055 4710/skye. com.br). Open 6pm-12.30am Mon-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$12; caipirinha R$26.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Botequim do Hugo This charming, homely bar is in stark contrast to the relentlessly upmarket restaurants and bars of Itaim, especially if there’s no room in the rustic yard and you have to sit in the back room with the beer crates, the fish tanks, and the deep freeze. It’s the Brazilian equivalent of an English country pub, except that the beer is cold, and the buracos quentes (minced meat and cheese-stuffed rolls) are excellent. Don’t dilly-dally on the way, because it closes early. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1014, Itaim Bibi (3079 6090/botequimdohugo.com.br).

Open 4-10pm Mon-Fri. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled by the hum of chatter as you approach Bottagallo, or by the huddles of people outside, relaxing on the long benches with a beer or standing around chatting.

Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; and happily – because the wait is well worth it. Kick off with one of the no-fuss house cocktails to get things going – the Vesper martini, with a hint of lemon, is a good call, whether piccolo (R$18) or regular (R$23). Once inside and settled at one of the rustic wooden tables, just let the efficient, friendly waiters keep the cold chope coming, and order a plate or two of the delicious, made-for-sharing tapas. Rua Jesuíno Arruda 520, Itaim Bibi (3078 2858/bottagallo.com.br). Open 6.30pmmidnight Mon; 6.30pm-1am Tue-Thu; 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; noon-2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$16.50.

Food & Drink

Jardins

Brazilian dish

es and snacks

the most charming corner in Vila Madalena

Seo Gomes The Fifties-inspired decor and warm, inviting glow makes walking past Seo Gomes a tricky proposition.

Sparkling tiles line the walls and floor, set off by a decidedly retro shade of green paint. And with smart waiters in flat caps buzzing around with trays of chopes, it wouldn’t seem out of place if Mad Men’s Don Draper were to walk in, light up a ciggie and order himself a whisky. A predominantly male (and often loud) crowd can drown out the live bossa nova; but the evening buffet is a definite plus for hungry drinkers. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 1214, Vila Olímpia (3846 3625/seogomes.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm-1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15; cover R$7.

Wall Street Bar Feeling like Gordon Gekko on a weekday night?

That’s Michael Douglas’s era-defining character in the 1987 Wall Street movie, not the recent sequel, by the way. Then head down to Itaim’s Wall Street Bar and join the shirt-sleeved business folk as they loosen their ties and gamble on drinks prices while they rise and fall depending on who’s buying what. It’s black and tiled with a big bull statue outside, but don’t fret – lunch isn’t for wimps at Wall Street: they do serve food. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 149, Itaim Bibi (3873 6922/ wallstreetbar.com.br). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Sat; 3-11pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; caipirinha R$18; minimum spend R$15-$30.

Imagine somewhere arretado!

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Food & Drink

Ibirapuera & Moema Bar Ao Vivo This charming little nightspot is somewhere between dark jazz bar and cheerful little pub, and as its name – which roughly translates as Live Music Bar – suggests, it’s a good place to catch musicians doing their thing. And those can include respected Brazilian performers like bossa nova veterans Zimba Trio. For drinks, try the chef’s martini, made with premium vodka, Cointreau and Blue Curaçao.

Rua Inhambu 229, Moema (5052 0072/aovivomusic.com.br). Open 7pm2am Mon-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$10-$40.

Bar Original One of São Paulo’s classic old-school botequims, Original feels like it’s been there forever, serving up the chopes and the excellent bar snacks since time immemorial. But if you get that déjà vu feeling inside the lovely, simply tiled space, it might not be for quite the reason you imagine. The charming, old-fashioned decor, the virtuoso way the bartenders have with the caipirinhas (the caju, tangerine and lime one is sublime) and the spot-on service, friendly and superefficient, aren’t the product of decades of history, but of the trademark high standards of the bar’s owners. A group of six partners, they opened Original in 1996 and have since gone from strength to strength, with some of the city’s finest establishments now under their belts – think Bráz, Astor, Pirajá and BottaGallo.

Rua Graúna 137, Moema (5093 9486/ baroriginal.com.br). Open 5.30pm-2am Mon-Wed; 5.30pm-3am Thu, Fri; noon3am Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Prices chope R$6.20; caipirinha R$16.50.

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Bar do Batista Great food and music are the soul of this Moema boteco, where owner Batista describes the clientele as ‘friends not customers’. The original owners were the estranged parents of MPB queen Elis Regina. She never set foot in the bar but today, many musicians still while away the afternoons here.

‘Our food is nothing elaborate but it’s well made’ says the owner. And we can testify to that. Don’t miss the prawn pastéis and bolinhos de bacalhau (fried cod balls). Avenida Ceci 868, Moema (5055 1435). Open 7am-11pm Mon-Fri; 8am6pm Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4; caipirinha R$6.

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Bar do Juarez There is a subtle art deco-aesthetic at work in both branches of the ever-popular Bar do Juarez. Both get packed with older crowds drawn to the wide selection of whiskies and cachaças, and the table-top mini grill for juicy beef cuts always goes down a storm, even if it tends to fill the secondary salon at this, the original Moema branch, with a rather unsavoury smell. The excellent self-service, per-kilo spread of bar snacks blows most other bars right out of the water with its olives and cheeses, cold cuts and pickles; but avoid the nasty, watery caipirinhas with their thin-sliced lime. Avenida Jurema 324, Moema (5052 4449/bardojuarez. com.br). Open 5pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$6.60; Other locations caipirinha R$16.

Avenida Deputado Franco de Lacerda 642, Pinheiros (3578 5228); Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 1164, Itaim (3078 3458); Rua Joaquim Nabuco 325, Brooklin (3969 4988).

Bottega Paradiso After working up a thirst in Parque do Ibirapuera, you can’t go wrong with the Italian eats and cold beer at Bottega Paradiso. Just a five-minute walk beyond the park’s portão (gate) 9, Bottega Paradiso is, like its owner, part Brazilian, part-Italian.

Chefs Luciano Moreira and Erivaldo Alcântara do specials at the weekend, but the everyday petiscos (snacks) are where it’s really at. Try the elaborate crostini ai fichi – grilled figs drizzled with honey, balsamic vinegar, melting Camembert cheese, Parma ham and rocket, on bread (R$23.10). Classic Italian rice balls – arancini – are a delight, too. And if the sun is shining, pull up a pew under the striped beige awning of the outdoor terrace. Rua Pirapora 218, Ibirapuera (3052 1473/bottegaparadiso.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 5pm-midnight MonFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana As Mineiras Set on a quiet residential street, this bar and its adjacent store are a twin homage to São Paulo’s neighbouring state of Minas Gerais. Folk art chickens and bottles of hot peppers from Minas adorn the shelves around the bar. Take a seat beneath the wagon-wheel chandeliers and take your pick of shareable mineiro staples like pastel de angú (corn meal fritters) and bolinhos de feijão (bean balls).

The real draw, though, is the drinks menu, with a comprehensive selection of cachaças and bonus happy hour specials that includes 2-for-1 caipirinhas every day except Saturday. Rua França Pinto 965, Vila Mariana (5083 5835/asmineiras. com.br). Open 4-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

Barnaldo Lucrécia This beautiful yellow period house in Paraíso is where many paulistanos go to celebrate their birthdays around the big wooden tables upstairs – with pastéis, plenty of beer, and if the live band playing Brazilian hits is good enough, a conga around the bar. And with the bar staff acting as cheerleaders and distributing party hats and streamers, be warned: there’s no graceful way to avoid getting involved. Rua Abílio Soares, 207, Paraíso (3052 2145/barnaldolucrecia. com.br). Metrô 1, Paraíso. Open 7pm1am Tue, Wed; 7pm-1.30am Thu; 7pm3am Fri; 8pm-2.45am Sat; 7.30pm1.30am Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7.80; caipirinha R$17.80; minimum spend R$0-$35.

The Blue Pub Set just round the back of the Maksoud Plaza hotel, The Blue Pub is a good place for after-work drinks on a Friday. The main upstairs bar has the feel of an old pub that’s been given a brush-up; while in the low-lit downstairs, things are cosier, with a classic pub bar.

The bar has an array of good imported bottled beer, and Heineken, Newcastle Brown and Guinness on tap – plus spicy vegetable pasties. It’s not, however, blue at all – it’s more of a mousy, steely grey.

How very British. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 384, Bela Vista (3284 8338/ thebluepub.com.br). Metrô 2,TrianonMASP. Open 4pm-2am Mon-Wed; 4pm3am Thu-Sat; 4pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$11; caipirinha R$14; minimum spend R$20-$40.

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Ludus Close to Avenida Brigadeiro, Ludus is a convivial bar in which the games people play are about as simple and easy to discern as they could possibly be. The bar staff will even come round and explain the rules, for heaven’s sake – we are speaking, of course, of board games, which is what Ludus is all about. There are hundreds of games in the three-storey bar’s games cabinet, and they’re being played at every table, whether it’s couples strategising over battleships, realpolitikal workmates frowning over games of Risk, or jolly groups of friends bumping elbows over Monopoly. Rua 13 de Maio 972, Bela Vista (3253 8452/ludusluderia.com.br).

Open noon-3pm Mon, Tue; noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Wed, Thu; noon-3pm, 6pm-3am Fri; 6pm-3am Sat; 11am11pm Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.80; caipirinha R$12.80; cover R$10-$25.

Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew.

Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss. There’s limited space inside, so expect to wait for a seat, or settle for standing-room on the pavement outside, next door to the extraordinary Sabesp water-tank building. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts. Hopefully not though. Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm-12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cervejaria Ô Fiô Ale aficionados and lager lovers will be drawn to this bar’s more-than-comprehensive beer menu.

Come on a sunny afternoon to enjoy the pleasant outdoor patio space while you make a start on trying the hundreds of Brazilian and international beers. The Brazilian beers are divided by region, with more than 25 beers from São Paulo state alone. Baden Baden’s smooth and filling stout gives Guinness a sub-

tropical run for its money; or how about one of the ten labels from Rio Grande do Sul, where the influence of Brazil’s German immigrants is most obvious?

A varied clientele comes on Saturday afternoons to listen to live samba de raiz while lining their stomachs with a filling feijoada (R$32). Rua Lício Marcondes Amaral 51, Morumbi (3721 6636/cervejariaofio.com.br). Open 6pm-late Mon-Fri; noon-late Sat, Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.50-$200; caipirinha R$12; cover R$7-$9.

Food & Drink

Choperia Liberdade A gloriously kitsch and raucous atmosphere prevails at this karaoke hangout in the heart of São Paulo’s Japanese district. The bar also has a big back room full of pool tables, which tends to fill up atmospherically with smoke from the grill. The food isn’t amazing, the dancefloor is more of an ad-hoc space cleared in the throng; and the karaoke singers tend to be more miss than hit; but it’s great for a messy, drunken night out. At weekends, it’s packed, and note that you’ll need to get your name down early if you want your three minutes of fame. Rua da Glória 523, Liberdade (3207 8783). Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 7pm-5am Tue-Thu; 7pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-5am Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$0-$10.

Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo.

References to his work pepper the bar, from his cheery face in photos and caricatures lining the walls to excerpts from his books on the napkins, and even in the menu too, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book.

Find savoury snacks like the delicious battered brie with chilli jam (R$30) on the menu under ‘piriris’ – a word of Veríssimo’s own invention, meaning little bites to eat. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar.com. br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am-2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

The North Chama da Serra Day trippers to Parque da Cantareira should keep their eyes peeled for this bar-cum-deli delight – the perfect pitstop for refreshments in the middle of one of the biggest urban forests in the world. Owner Miriam quit her job in the paulistano ratrace to set up the place five years ago, and now serves platters of cheese, cold cuts and homemade pasta dishes with all manner of liquid gratification from the bar, which is surprisingly well stocked given its remote location. Barrels of locally distilled artisanal cachaça in fruity flavours line up next to wooden racks of wine, and shelves stacked with a range of awardwinning Colorado beers from Riberão Preto. If you’re lucky, you might catch the once-a-month samba show. Estrada Santa Inês 3190, Mairiporã (4485 0292).

Open noon-9pm Tue-Sun. Prices 600 ml beer R$5-$6; caipirinha R$15.

Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city in northern suburb Freguesia do Ó is a São Paulo mecca for chicken and beer. Go early on a sunny afternoon and bag a table outside on the square overlooking the church. Kick things off with the infamous chicken and catupiry coxinha. Beer lovers should try one of the beer-tasting menus, which meander through Brazilian, British and even rare Trappist beers. Each one is served at the right temperature and in the correct shape of glass. Consider lining your stomach first with a frango completo – a spit-roast chicken served with polenta, farofa and salad. Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (3932 4818/frangobar.com.br). Open 11am-midnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.80; caipirinha R$16.50.

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Food & Drink

The hot list – cafés How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice-cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

New in town Sálvia

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

LANCHONETE Bar e Lanches

Estadão A pioneer in 24-hour service, Estadão, as it’s best known, is a boho hangout from the old school.

Its name is a reference to the Estado de S. Paulo newspaper, which was next door in the 1970s. With a simple, egalitarian atmosphere, the place serves a magnificent pernil (pork) sandwich.

Viaduto Nove de Julho 193 (3257 7121/estadaolanches.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 24 hours daily.

Prices cafezinho R$2.50; sandwiches R$4-$22. 24 HR

Consolação & Higienópolis BAKERY Benjamin Abrahão The

Jardins branch of this citywide bakery is the most modern and trendy; but this Higienópolis version, older and considerably more traditional, is still sought out for its sweets and croissants, especially the ham croissant, a spot-on snack accompanied by coffee or juice. Rua Maranhão 220, Higienópolis (3258 1855/ benjaminabrahao.com.br). Open 6am8.30pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.70; sandwiches R$7.90-$10.20. Other locations Citywide.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros CAFÉ Empório São João Close your

eyes for a moment and you could be in Greece: rough terracotta walls, cool tiled floors and plenty of greenery make this a great place for a coffee, lunch or a light supper. Head for a table in the bright, leafy garden at the back. Rua dos Pinheiros 456, Pinheiros (3063 0114/emporiosaojoao. com.br). Open 9am-midnight Tue-Sat; 9am-7pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$2-$7.20.

CAFÉ Tineta The yummy mummy brigade – hot young mums rocking allterrain buggies – gather at this friendly Itaim spot for afternoon coffee and cake. A free couvert of bread and butter gets lunch off to a pleasant start. Rua Jesuino Arruda 512, Itaim Bibi (2338 9884/tineta.com. br). Open 9am-7pm Mon-Fri; 9am-5pm Sat. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwich R$12-$16.

Ibirapuera & Moema

means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

BAKERY Blés D’Or Temptation awaits

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NEW

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

With a menu of nostalgic comfort foods created by the Marcelino Pan y Vino chef, Daniela França Pinto (see Restaurant listings), and a style that blends rustic vintage with a daring dash of colour, the cheerful caférestaurant Sálvia – Cozinha de Afeto is a welcome new choice for lunch or afternoon tea in Moema. Choose between sandwiches, salads, pies and the three-course set lunch (R$37). Or keep it sweet with a slice of homemade cake. Avenida Jacutinga 96, Moema (2628 8958/restaurantesalvia.com.br).

CAFÉ Gourmet Tea Company You’ll be greeted by a striking array of brightly coloured tins of tea behind the counter at this emporium-cum-tea-house. Park up at one of the few wooden tables to take part in a modern take on a tea ceremony. It involves a stopwatch and a quick-release teapot-and-cup-in-one contraption, and the result is – apparently – the perfect infusion.

Choose from one of 35 blends: how about a Rooibos Citrus Ginger for warmth, or a refreshing Berry White Iced Tea? Team it up with the deliciously moist carrot cake, topped with cream cheese icing. Rua Matheus Grou 89, Pinheiros (2936 4814/ thegourmettea.com.br). Open 10am9pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.40; tea R$4.90; lunch R$19.70-$24.70.

ICE CREAM Stuzzi Gelato Caffé Slightly out of the way as far as Vila Madalena is concerned, this tiny parlour nevertheless attracts hordes of ice cream lovers, especially on weekends, for its highly recommended Italian-style ice-cream. Rua Paulistânia 450, Vila Madalena (3816 0279/stuzzi.com.br) Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 9am8pm Mon-Sat; 12pm-8pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3; ice-cream R$14-$18 (two scoops).

Jardins BAKERY Dengosa This ever-popular

spot in Jardins has been baking bread for over 30 years, and maintains some of its retro charm. There are no stools, so patrons stand at the stainless steel counter and sip on Dengosa’ s coffee of choice: the média (R$4.20), a frothy white coffee served here in a cup rather than the typical glass. Eye up one of the delicious sandwich combinations on the menu or cut to the chase and go for the ciabatta filled with pastrami, queijo prato (a Brazilian soft cheese) and pickled cucumber (R$15). Rua Doutor Melo Alves 281, Jardim Paulista (3061 2919). Open 6am-10pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.70; sandwiches R$6.30$18.80.

CAFÉ Le Vin Patisserie Tucked off

to the side of its sister restaurant, this patisserie, with checkered tablecloths and attentive staff, serves delicious pains au chocolat, sweet pastries and macaroons in every flavour imaginable.

Alameda Tietê 178, Jardim Paulista (3063 1094/levin.com.br) Open 8am10pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$4; sandwiches R$8.50-$44.

here in the form of bread fresh from the bakery, or sweet delights from the pâtisserie, such as eclairs, mille feuilles and tarte tatin. Stop in for a coffee or go for the weekend brunch buffet, with scrambled eggs, crêpes and cakes. Rua Tuim 653, Moema (5532 0183/blesdor. com.br) Open 7.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri; 8.30am-10.30pm Sat; 8.30am-6pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.20; sandwiches R$19-$28.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana BAKERY Itiriki This bakery in Liberdade

is packed with more than 500 varieties of Asian, European and Brazilian treats. Try Japanese specialities like the melonpan (R$4.20) – bread with a touch of vanilla essence and buttery peel. Rua dos Estudantes 24, Liberdade (3277 4939/ bakeryitiriki.com). Metrô 1, Liberdade.

Open 8am-7pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.90; sandwiches R$3.50.

café Lady Fina The owner, ex-model Laura Wie, dug out old family recipe books to put together a menu here, whose highlights are the German-style desserts and pastries – original recipes from Wie’s grandmothers – like the Frau Sampio, an orange flan (R$9.50). Rua Loefgreen 2481, Vila Mariana (2359 2080). Open 11am7pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$16.30-$19.80.

Santo Amaro & Campo Belo café Il Barista One of the city’s gourmet café pioneers when it opened in 2003, Il Barista has since spawned a further three locations, all of which serve the in-house line of coffee blends. Their full-bodied espresso competes with the likes of the freddo limone (R$13), an iced cappuccino with lime-flavoured ice-cream. Rua Verbo Divino 1385, Santo Amaro (5181 1671/ ilbarista.com.br). Open 8am-8pm MonFri. Prices cafezinho R$4; sandwiches R$8.80-$14. Other locations Alameda Lorena 1731, Jardim Paulista; Rua Mário Ferraz 414, Itaim Bibi; Shopping Morumbi (see Shopping listings).

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Out & About This month in São Paulo

40 44 46 49 50 54

PEDRO MOTTA/PRESS IMAGE

Art & Museums Shopping & Style Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Football & World Cup 2014

Shadowplay A photo by Pedro Motta, one of the artists featured in a new book, ‘Geração 00’

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Art & Museums Digital visions

Seeing red Cinthia Marcelle’s stunning photograph contrasts a fabric-covered horse with the iron-ore-rich land

The bilingual collection, in Portuguese and English, showcases the works of 49 photographers, and displays what the demonstrative book’s editor photojournalist Eder Chiodetto calls a refusal to ‘accommodate classifications’, and a confrontational style that ‘topples taboos and trespasses comfort

zones.’ Bold words for bold images.

The second part of Geração 00 opens with a homage to an innovator in the field, Cláudia Andujar, whose achievements have made her an inspiration for other photographers in the book. Her engaging 1976 shot of a native Brazilian communal house – an ‘oca’ (below left) – was

part of a revolutionary photographic essay supporting the Yanomami people’s cause while at the same time breaking genre barriers, as the photos were also exhibited in art galleries.

Geração 00 – A Nova Fotografia Brasileira is published

by Edições SESC São Paulo (R$99).

Pedro Motta/press image

Claudia Andujar/press image

With the Oxford English Dictionary naming ‘selfie’ as 2013’s Word of the Year, it’s fair to say that the technological advances that put a camera phone in half the world’s hands, and provided an internet on which to instantly share the results, have made us an ever more visual culture, eager to see and show, and ever more avid to see visually striking images. But in the hands of artists, the implications of these new pixel-based possibilities have resulted in striking works never before possible in the world of photography.

A new book focusing on the amazing strides made in Brazilian digital photography during the last decade, Geração 00 – A Nova Fotografia Brasileira (Generation 00 – The New Brazilian Photography), collects pictures bordering on the hyperreal: overly-saturated colours that jump from the pages like that of the iron-ore-rich earth taken by Cinthia Marcelle (see above); glassy black-and-whites that appear so smooth they border on being painterly; and extra-sharp focus that renders many images with precise clarity and detail, to a scientificallyaccurate level.

Cinthia Marcelle/press image

A new Brazilian photography book highlights works from the recent past and the evolution of the medium.

CM Gorey reports

Uncanny infrared An Yanomami Indian communal house, by Cláudia Andujar

In the drink Pedro Motta’s shot of bottled fish over a serene body of water

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Art listings How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres.

Recommended institutions are marked with a .

Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/galerialeme.com) Open 10am7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

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installation and sculpture. Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 526, Itaim Bibi (3167 0833/ galeriaoscarcruz.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Jardins AM Galeria Horizonte After seven years located in Vila Nova Conceição, this gallery moved to a new larger space in Jardins in 2011. The curator, Angela Martins, represents a roster of artists both in São Paulo and at AM Galeria’s other branch in Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais. Rua Estados Unidos 273, Jardim Paulista (3044 1057/galeriahorizonte.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. No credit cards.

Arte Aplicada Galeria Brazilian contemporary artists using techniques including painting, drawing, sculpture and photography, are represented at this glass-fronted two-storey gallery. Rua Haddock Lobo 1406, Jardim Paulista (3064 4725/arteaplicada.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. The new building features a striking facade made of exposed bricks placed sideways-on to create a surface with hundreds of perforations. Inside, a classic white-cube exhibition space leads up to a large office the gallery plans to share with

Art & Museums

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

psychedelic rangers Assume Vivid Astro Focus are some of the many Galeria Vermelho One of the most artists represented by this always consistently interesting galleries in São interesting gallery. Rua Paes de Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm behind a blank façade that the gallery Tue-Sat. No credit cards. sometimes uses as a canvas. Inside, in a set Luciana Brito Galeria This elegant of spaces designed by the architect Paulo gallery represents 20 high-calibre artists Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has from Brazil and abroad, including a well earned reputation for iconic names like Marina championing emerging Abramovic, Regina Silveira artists, investing and Mônica Nador, as well considerable care as emerging artists. Rua and effort into Gomes de Carvalho 842, their careers. Rua Vila Olímpia (3842 Many g a Minas Gerais 350, 0634/lucianabritogaleria.

Christ lleries clo m s Higienópolis (3138 com.br). Open 10amYear, aas and the e over 1520/galeriavermelho.

7pm Tue-Sat. No credit Janua nd some New in ry. Be com.br). Metrô 2, cards. st to c to a n all d che Consolação. Open 10amGaleria Marília Razuk ck 7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Currently based in a highly Sat. discreet Itaim location, Marília Razuk has been showing Brazilian and international artists of great stature since 1992. An impressive roster includes Itaim Bibi the neo-concretist maestro Amilcar de & Vila Olímpia Castro. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 131, Itaim Casa Triângulo This big, stylish Bibi (3079 0853/galeriamariliarazuk.com. white gallery is strong on Brazilian br) Open 10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11amand international names, unafraid to 3pm Sat. shock, and doesn’t shy from variety.

Galeria Oscar Cruz Oscar Cruz has Founded in 1988, the gallery continues been dealing in contemporary art in São to play an essential part in championing Paulo for over 15 years, and takes part emerging artists, Brazilian and in the major international art fairs. The otherwise, and takes part in a number large gallery space, split over two floors, of important international art fairs. focuses on the work of contemporary Sergio Romagnolo, Joana Vasconcelos, Brazilian artists, covering a broad range of young British artist Jack Strange, and media from painting and photography to

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Perdizes & Pompéia Gravura Brasileira Opened in 1998

by Alberto Fuks and Eduardo Besen to showcase classic and contemporary print art, Gravura Brasileira has since staged more than 100 exhibitions from its Perdizes headquarters. This is one of precious few print-only galleries in Brazil, and its exhibitions are both reliably interesting and of consistently high artistic quality.

Rua Dr Franco da Rocha 61, Perdizes (3624 0301/gravurabrasileira.com). Open 11am-6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-1pm Sat.

Pinheiros Amoa Konoya Arte Indígena Walter Gomes da Silva’s relationship with Brazil’s numerous indigenous tribes goes back to 1984, when members of the União da Nações Indígenas (Union of

Re-design Alexandre Wollner

(2373 2999/galeriavirgilio.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Santa Cecília Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has also developed particularly good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Her gallery occupies a large, airy space, where it has the floor space for large installations.

Rua Barra Funda 216, Santa Cecília (3666 6489/barogaleria.com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm TueFri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena

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Art & Museums

other creatives, as a kind of hub. And right on top, a terrace, looking out over the treetops of leafy Jardins.Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/ emmathomas.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s.

With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as midcareer artists such as Alexandre da Cunha.

Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/galerialuisastrina. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Mendes Wood Injecting a dash of youthful zest and daring into the city’s art scene, Mendes Wood is owned by galleristas Pedro Mendes, Felipe Dmab and Matthew Wood, the latter from the USA. This is a cutting-edge gallery whose artists now include Brazil’s foremost conceptual artist, Tunga, as well as a roster of bright young things. Rua da Consolação 3358, Jardim Paulista (3081 1735/ mendeswood. com). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am7pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Nara Roesler With her son Alexandre running online gallery Galeria Motor (galeriamotor.com.br), and herself a busy and experienced player, Nara Roesler is an influential name in São Paulo art.

Japanese ‘old school contemporary’ painter Tomie Ohtake, founder of the institute that bears her name (see Major institutions), is just one of her artists, as are fashionable young painters like Rodolpho Parigi.

Avenida Europa 655, Jardim Europa (3063 2344/nararoesler.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards..

Zipper Galeria The emphasis at this gallery, owned by the experienced galerista Fabio Cimino, is on the new and the pop.

We love the now-iconic, voyeuristic photos of unknowing city balcony sunbathers by fashion/art photographer Felipe Morozini, and the strangely resonant portraits by the young painter Rodrigo Cunha; but with excellent curation and two spaces, upstairs and down, there’s always something on that’s worth seeing here. Rua Estados Unidos 1494, Jardim Paulista (4306 4306/ zippergaleria.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

The pioneering artist, co-founder of the country’s first design firm, Form-Inform, and creator of logos such as Itaú’s and Philco’s, Alexandre Wollner remains an influential figure in Brazilian graphic art. ‘Série Constelações’ (Constellations Series) comprises recent works in which he remixes his 1956 pieces, playing with overlapping colour on triangular forms. Dan Galeria, Rua Estados Unidos 1638, Jardim Paulista (3083 4600/ dangaleria.com.br) until 18 January. The gallery will be closed from 21 December to 6 January Indigenous Nations) asked him to market their handiwork. So he knows what he’s talking about. Today, the arts and crafts gallery he runs with Silvana Costa sells work from 60 indigenous settlements, from geometrically-patterned ceramics to arrowheads. Rua João Moura 1002, Pinheiros (3061 0639/amoakonoya.com. br). Open 9am-6pm Mon-Sat. Galeria nuVEM You might mistake this off-the-wall shop/gallery for a toy shop, with its window display full of dolls and fanciful insect models, which the Korean-born artist Sang crafts from Barbie parts, animal figurines and plastic soap containers. But for a more traditional gallery feel, head to the second floor to see the occasional shows of political and urban themed works by other artists, many of whom are also from Korea, or from other parts of South America. Rua Mateus Grou 355, Pinheiros (3061 1237/ galerianuvem.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. Paralelo Gallery Don’t let the minimalist ground floor space fool you.

The stairs lead to a arsenal of artworks, packed floor-to-ceiling with works from almost all fourteen artists on Paralelo’s roster. The gallery, open since 2010, invests in promising new artists like Spain’s Jesús

Herrera, as well as seasoned practitioners like the British photographer Jamie Stewart-Granger, who lives in Bahia and whose sensitive photos of the area are simply exquisite. Rua Artur de Azevedo 986, Pinheiros (2495 6876/paralelogallery. com). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am3pm Sat. Smith Galeria Smith aims to resist the exclusive bent of swankier galleries and make itself a haven for art mavens and dabblers alike. High ceilings and a spacious back yard make it ideal for installations and larger works.

New exhibitions open five-weekly, but whatever the show of the moment, Smith dedicates its entire space to it – that’s three storeys of arty goodness. Rua João Moura 417/419, Pinheiros (3259 7513/ smithgaleria.com.br). Open 1-7pm TueFri; 10am-2pm Sat. Galeria Virgílio The airy exhibition spaces and pleasant cafe of Galeria Virgílio are a hangout for the Pinheiros art crowd, and the place is unashamedly intellectual. So don’t be surprised to find a social-media journalism course or a jazz show by multi-instrumentalist Renato Anesi happening alongside exhibitions by home-grown artists like Diego Belda. Rua Virgílio de Carvalho Pinto 426, Pinheiros

Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. It has played a significant role in promoting the city’s street art, and if you find live-wire curator/co-owner Baixo Ribeiro on the premises and up for a chat, you’ll come out wiser on this and many other art-related subjects. Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 2365/choquecultural.com.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat. Galeria Raquel Arnaud Contemporary art curator Raquel Arnaud specialised in geometric abstraction at her São Paulo gallery Gabinete de Arte since 1980, showcasing talent such as Lygia Clark.

This gallery is split over three storeys, with the lower ground floor housing a permanent archive for her important collection of works by the Constructivist artist Sergio Camargo. Rua Fidalga 125, Vila Madalena (3083 6322/raquelarnaud. com). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon4pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Transversal A new Vila Madalena outpost for the two-year-old Barra Funda gallery, this space is double the size of the original, at 400m2. Swing by to check it out, and combine it with a trip to the nearby galleries Fortes Vilaça and Galeria Millan. The older space will only be used for occasional exhibitions and courses and also as the ‘acervo’ – the back room; so call to check before heading to Barra Funda. Rua Fidalga 545, Vila Madalena (3392 5287/galeriatransversal.com.br).

Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-6pm Sat. Other location Rua do Bosque 206, Barra Funda (3392 5287). Open 11am8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-2pm Sat.

Vila Mariana White Cube São Paulo It’s one of the first major international galleries to arrive in São Paulo – but we’re wagering it won’t be the last. Opened in December 2012, London’s White Cube gallery kicked off with a solo show by one of its Brit Art stars, Tracey Emin. It also represents Antony Gormley, love-him-or-hate-him art bad boy Damien Hirst, and a huge list of major international talent, some of whom are already jockeying for a show in SP. .

Rua Agostinho Rodrigues Filho 550, Vila Mariana (whitecube.com). Open 11am7pm Tue-Sat.

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Museums & cultural centres Matilha Cultural A socially-minded cultural space in the Centro, Matilha Cultural organises events, courses, film screenings and art exhibitions, which are generally free. With the environment in mind, Matilha was built using certified and reclaimed wood and serves vegetarian food in its café. Rua Rego Freitas 542, (3256 2636/matilhacultural. com.br). Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; noon10pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC) The MAC contains over 10,000 works by the likes of Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani, Tarsila do Amaral, Portinari and Di Cavalcanti on its three sites, the newest of which is located in a huge Niemeyer building across the road from Parque do Ibirapuera. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral 1301, Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac.usp.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-

Sun. Other locations Pavilhão Ciccillo Matarazzo, 3rd floor, Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5573 9932/mac.usp.br).

Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Cidade Universitária, Rua da Praça do Relógio 160 (3091 3039/mac.usp.br). Open 10am-4pm Sat, Sun, public holidays.

Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) Founded in 1948, the MAM contains over 5,000 works by acclaimed Brazilian artists of the likes of Regina Silveira, Cildo Meireles and Leonilson. Its mission is to showcase contemporary and modern Brazilian art, and it also has a 6,000-square-metre sculpture garden.

Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5085 1300/mam.org.br).

Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5.50; free reductions. Free to all Sun. Museu de Arte de São Paulo

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Unnatural world José Rufino

Enigmatic and alluring, the works of José Rufino borrow the serious formality often reserved for family portraiture or natural history exhibitions from centuries past. The series ‘Violatio’ features subjects such as knotted tree stumps, animal carcasses splayed across newsprint, and spiked chairs placed inside of creepy confessional-like boxes. MuBE, Avenida Europa 218, Jardim Europa (2594 2601/mube.art.br), until 5 January. Free.

(MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum is an imposing red concrete-and-glass box suspended on four concrete columns, which dominates Avenida Paulista.

Inside, it’s the Greatest Hits of World Art, Vols. 1-10. There’s a Picasso, a Gainsborough, a Hieronymus Bosch and a Goya, as well as big Brazilian names like Cândido Portinari and Anita Malfatti. In short, it’s the best collection of European and Brazilian art in South America – even if only around 500 of the museum’s 7,000 works are on show at any given time. Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/masp.art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm Thu; 10am-6pm FriSun (ticket office open until half an hour before closing). Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free to all Tue. Museu do Futebol The fascinating Museu do Futebol uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football. A large collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events to stimulate young supporters into learning the facts behind their favourite sport.

Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663 3848/museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu. Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) This stark, concrete building is home to a collection of 30,000 items in the shape of photos, films and records.

It also stages innovative temporary exhibitions and retrospectives, as well as the very popular Green Sunset series of parties, monthly on Saturday afternoons. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br).

Open noon-9pm Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; seniors free. No credit cards.

Museu Lasar Segall A jewel in São Paulo’s roster of museums, the Museu Lasar Segall is the former home of Lithuanian-born Modernist artist Lasar Segall, who moved to Brazil in 1923. Established in 1967, ten years after Segall’s death, the multi-use space encompasses a printing workshop, small cinema, café and temporary exhibition spaces as well as a semi-permanent collection of Segall’s paintings, sculpture and furniture, created throughout his career. Rua Berta 111, Vila Mariana (2159 0400/museusegall.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Mariana. Open 11am-7pm Mon,Wed-Sun. Pinacoteca do Estado São Paulo’s oldest, most traditional major institution was designed in 1897 by Ramos de Azevedo, and originally housed São Paulo’s first art school. Many of the most important Brazilian Modernists are on display here, Cândido Portinari, Anita Malfatti and Di Cavalcanti included.

Praça da Luz, Luz (3324 1000/pinacoteca. org.br) Metrô 1, Luz. Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; students R$3. Free to all Sat. No credit cards.

Other location Estação Pinacoteca, Largo General Osório 66, Centro (3335 4990). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission Included in Pinacoteca admission price.

Art & Museums

Acervo Artístico dos Palácios do Governo do Estado de São Paulo This institution, owned by the State of São Paulo, has an interesting collection of Brazilian modern and baroque art, plus furniture and ceramics, which it displays in exhibitions scattered across its three palaces: Palácio dos Bandeirantes, Palácio do Horto and Palácio Boa Vista – the latter in the town of Campos do Jordão. Palácio dos Bandeirantes, Avenida Morumbi 4500, Morumbi (2193 8282/acervo. sp.gov.br). Open 10am-5pm Tue-Sun. Palácio do Horto, Rua do Horto 931, Horto Florestal (2193 8623/acervo. sp.gov.br). Open 9am-3pm Wed-Sun. Palácio Boa Vista, Avenida Adhemar de Barros 3001, Alto da Boa Vista, Campos do Jordão/SP (12 3662 1122/acervo.sp.gov.br). Open 10am-5pm Wed-Sun. Caixa Cultural Owned by the Caixa Econômica Federal bank, this gallery contains 2,000 artworks including paintings, sculptures and carvings by generations of Brazilian artists.

Praça da Sé 111, Centro (3321 4400/ caixacultural.com.br) Open 9am-9pm Tue-Sun.w Catavento Cultural Located in the beautiful Palácio das Industrias, Catavento is a cultural and educational museum. Its mission is to provide children with fun and interactive ways to learn, and covers topics including space, the human body and Brazilian geography and wildlife. No tickets sold after 4pm. Palácio das Indústrias, Praça Cívica Ulisses Guimarães, Parque Dom Pedro II, Centro (cataventocultural. org.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; free-R$3 reductions.

Centro Cultural São Paulo São Paulo’s aerodynamic-looking Cultural Centre, perched atop a steep hill beside the Avenida 23 de Maio thoroughfare, is quite an impressive and clever architectural feat. Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the vast, multi-level space. A spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden with a restaurant and café with views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural. sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE Espaço Cultural BM&F BOVESPA Combine a visit to one of the temporary exhibitions at the Espaço Cultural, housed inside the entrance hall to São Paulo’s stock exchange, with a guided tour of the financial institution – ask at the reception desk. Praça Antonio Prado 48, Centro (2565 6826). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm. FREE Itaú Cultural This bank-owned cultural centre stages some of the best shows in town, from standout fine art to regular exhibitions on all sorts of aspects of culture, including digital. It also has a library containing audiovisual research material. Avenida Paulista 149, Bela Vista (2168 1777/itaucultural.org. br). Open 9am-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am-8pm Sat, Sun.

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Shopping & Style Shopping malls

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Center 3 Thanks to its location on the iconic Avenida Paulista, this mall draws legions of visitors to its four floors for a quick fix of lunchtime shopping or to take advantage of its many services – think tailors, shoe repairers, watch repairers, key cutters, hairdressers, banks and more. The mall has managed to reinvent itself by bringing back some of the glamour its cinemas had back in the 1970s; the spacious but antiquated Cine Bristol is now the modern Multiplex Bristol, with seven screens, one of which is 3D. There’s also a food court with more than thirty eating options. Avenida Paulista 2064, Consolação (3285 2458/ shoppingcenter3.com.br). Open 8am10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat; 10am10pm Sun and holidays.

Cidade Jardim There are more malls in São Paulo than you could visit in a lifetime, but this one ranks among the top contenders for the most lavishly swish mall, with its picturesque roof terrace and designer stores including Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Montblanc, Red Valentino and Brazilian designer Carlos Miele. Don’t miss Chocolat du Jour, possibly the best chocolate store in town. Taxi, private car or helicopter are the only means of arrival allowed. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (3552 1000/ shoppingcidadejardimjhsf.com.br).

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun, holidays. Hours at food kiosks and restaurants vary.

Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, one of Avenida Paulista’s most famous landmarks. This David Libeskind project from 1958 is innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops. Revamped after a fire broke out in 1978, the complex is home to the bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura, and to one of São Paulo’s best cinemas, Cine Livraria Cultura. The digital clock and thermometer that crown the building are a landmark and a daily reference for countless paulistanos. Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (3179 0000/ccn.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7am10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat, Sun & holidays.

Frei Caneca Located close to Avenida Paulista, this mall is at the heart of São Paulo and is famous not only for marketing culture, but also for generating it – amongst its numerous shops, nine cinemas and two theatres, it also hosts events and conferences, and has a professional drama school named after Wolf Maya, one of Brazil’s most prestigious soap opera directors.

Its cinema is known for being eclectic,

New in town Studio Geek

In a world of pirate downloads and knock-off apparel, the recently opened pop culture store Studio Geek bucks the trend by offering 100 per cent licensed products.

The Jardins store, which was spawned by the expansive e-commerce site Mundo Geek (lojamundogeek.com.br), may just save the day for diehard fans keen to get their hands on authentic merchandise. They stock everything from vintage T-shirts and mobile phone covers to coffee mugs and underwear, from DC Comics, Marvel and countless cartoon and television series. Alameda Jaú 1988, Jardim Paulista (2645 8337/studiogeek.com. br). Open 11.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10.30am-6pm Sat; Sundays in the run-up to Christmas. with national and international movies on the menu, whether commercial or cult. The food court tends to get a bit crowded at lunchtime, so you might find yourself sharing a table. Rua Frei Caneca 569, Consolação (3472 2000/ freicanecashopping.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-10pm MonSat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants vary.

Galeria Ouro Fino São Paulo’s wealthier alternative crowd heads to this gallery. There are tattoo studios, lingerie shops and hairdressers; and above all, there are small-scale designer shops selling creative or unusual outfits

like US Army-inspired fatigues at the appropriately named US Army. Rua Augusta 2690, Jardim Paulista (3082 7860/galeriaourofino.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-8pm Mon-Sat. Galeria do Rock A haven for rockers and emos, affectionately known as ‘emoland’ by city satirists, the Galeria do Rock is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to the various facets of the music scene. CDs, vinyl, T-shirts, accessories, flags and posters – you name it, it’s here and it’s ready to rock.

The bottom floor is dedicated solely to hip hop and ‘black music’, as Brazilians term it. The prices are lower than at

equivalent speciality shops in other areas around the city; and on Saturdays, a battalion of teenage rockers invades.

Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (3337 6277). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. Ibirapuera One of the biggest shopping centres in town, Ibirapuera has more than 400 stores plus a gourmet food area. Charming small shops can also be found outside the mall, on avenidas Bem-Te-Vi and Gaivota, and ruas Pavão and Normandia. Avenida Ibirapuera 3103, Moema (5095 2300/ ibirapuera.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Iguatemi This, the city’s oldest shopping centre, still manages to hold its own in terms of sophistication and class, despite a rash of new high-class malls. Emporio Armani, Louis Vuitton and Ermenegildo Zegna are just some of the designer dreams on display, while Tiffany & Co has a street-front store on the ground floor. Check out the Brazilian high-fashion shops like Rosa Chá and Maria Bonita, or for slightly more affordable international style, head for Zara and Diesel. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulistano (3816 6116/iguatemisaopaulo.com.br).

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, food court 11am-10pm; shops 2-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

JK Iguatemi With its slick, highshine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri, Ici Brasserie, Spot) and predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop and its brother brand, Topman.

Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary.

Market Place This is a small, bijou mall that goes for quality, not quantity of stores. A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, it also has an excellent food court with a huge variety of options. Go for baby back ribs at Outback, check out Mango’s Smoothies and Brigaderia, and don’t miss the shops Le Lis Blanc and Calvin Klein.

Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan 902, Santo Amaro (3048 7000/marketplace. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Morumbi Morumbi is a favourite with young executives in the area for its first-floor gym (Companhia Athletica) as well as for its branch of the Fnac bookstore, which hosts music shows, art

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Markets

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Feira de Antiguidades e Arte do Bixiga This fair’s 300 stalls boast everything from antique clocks and furniture, clothes and records to vintage watches, brooches and sunglasses. There’s also a number of excellent food stalls, selling a plethora of delicacies, including homemade Italian cuisine inspired by Bixiga, São Paulo’s nearby version of Little Italy. Praça Dom Orione, Bela Vista (3262 2198). Open 8am-5pm Sun. Feira de Antiguidades da Paulista (MASP) Family silver, grandmother’s lace and antique photographs are just a few of the many things to be found at this beautiful market underneath the hulking body of the MASP. Although the prices can be quite hefty, only one-of-akind articles are purveyed here. Avenida Paulista 1578, Bela Vista. Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-5pm Sun. Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da Liberdade) This weekly fair has been going since 1975, and remains one of São Paulo’s best loved Sunday passeios (outings). Its 240 or so stalls mostly compete for your stomach, with a vast range of Japanese and Chinese fastfood treats on offer at a reasonable price. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun.

Feira de Artes, Cultura e Lazer da Praça Benedito Calixto Surrounded by gift and furniture shops, this Saturday market sells bric-à-brac as well as antique furniture – do stay on your guard, as many goods are copies – vinyl, clothes and jewellery. It’s busiest in the afternoons, when live music, chorinho, kicks in from 2.30 to 6.30pm, and a buzzing gay scene spills onto the pavements outside some of the square’s bars and cafés. Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto.com.br).

Open 8am-7pm Sat. Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying an incredibly colourful array of fruit and vegetables. There’s an abundance of native fruits, as well as exotic offerings from Asia. Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. The famous bacalhau (Portuguese-style salt cod), with its aroma of olive oil and a melt-in-your-mouth quality, is a Mercadão favourite. It can be tried in the form of a pastry at Hocca Bar. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/mercadomunicipal.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

Shopping

events and book releases. The food court has gourmet restaurants including La Pasta Gialla (Italian food) and Barbacoa (meat). Brazilian brands Animale, Capitão Pinto Ferreira Street Gloria Coelho and Mara Mac are also Market Of São Paulo’s many street worth a look. Avenida Roque Petroni markets, this one in Jardim Paulista, one Jr 1089, Santo Amaro (4003 4132/ of São Paulo´s wealthiest neighbourhoods, morumbishopping.com.br). Open 10amis particularly good. There’s a huge range 10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun. Hours at of fresh fruit and vegetables, and top stores, bars and restaurants vary. quality fish and seafood. Rua Pátio Higienópolis Located on Capitão Pinto Ferreira, a pleasantly leafy boulevard Jardim Paulista. Open in this lovely upmarket 7.30am-12.30pm Fri. neighbourhood, this CEAGESP If you’re mall is at first hard to interested in buying distinguish from the rs plants, flowers or mansions and 1950s h flowe clock s re F fruits, try the state residential buildings alarm SP’s r u o y t market CEAGESP Se around it. It’s popular CEAGE s. e s w ro (also known as for its branch of the to b tiful bloom beau 0am Tue, Ceasa).The wholesale high-end Mediterranean .3 0 -1 5 market feeds the city, buffet Bar des Arts, and Fri. but offers a number brands like Calvin Klein of retail sales as well, underwear and L’Occitane. with prices that take some beating.

Avenida Higienópolis 618, Higienópolis For fruit, Wednesdays (at night) and (3823 2300/patiohigienopolis.com.br). weekends (in the morning) are the peak Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open times. And if all the healthy, fresh produce 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun and natural aromas get a bit much, outside & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and the entrance you’ll find a hot dog stand, restaurants vary. open 24 hours a day. Avenida Dr Gastão Pátio Paulista The largest mall on Vidigal 1946, Vila Leopoldina (3643 Avenida Paulista is home to chains 3700/ceagesp.gov.br). Open 5am-10am like Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering.

Tue; 4-10pm Wed; 5-10am Fri; 7am-noon The sleek interior appeals to Avenida Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. No credit cards.

Paulista businessmen, primarily for midday trips to the food court, while kids flock to its small three-screen movie theatre. Rua Treze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 1100/shoppingpaulista. com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Get your festive season Top Center After being acquired in 2007 by one of the biggest shoppingshopping wrapped at the centre groups in the country, Top Center Mercadinho Chic has had a facelift and become a pleasant, modernised option for those in search Looking for Christmas gift inspiraof shopping options around Avenida Paulista. On the ground floor, Starbucks tion? Whether it’s something attracts a young crowd in search of special or a simple stocking filler great coffee and a good Wi-Fi connection. that you’re after, the covered miniCasual urban fashion is catered for by market Mercadinho Chic is a good stores such as M.Officer, Any Any and place to start. A well curated rotatHering, amongst others. Services handy ing roster of designers occupies for tourists include a Bureau de Change, the market stalls, selling everycar rental (Localiza) and travel agency thing from handmade clothes, like (CVC). You’ll find all the standard fast food outlets (Subway, Viena, McDonald’s, the summery print dresses by loRizzo, Spoleto, Giraffas, Divino Fogão, cal brand Moeê (see right, R$179) among others) and there’s even a good to quirky home trinkets, wallets Japanese restaurant, Miyabi, which and accessories. For bags, go for attracts the Japanese-Brazilian office the funky, coloured leather and crowd who work around Avenida faux snakeskin designs by Lajut, Paulista. Avenida Paulista 854, Bela or the more classic leather bags Vista (3145 1819/topcentershopping.

by Madamix (photo, R$349). com.br). Open 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun and holidays. Food court There are double the designers 11am-9pm; shops noon-6pm. now, too, as the original MerVilla-Lobos Close to Parque Villacadinho Chic on Rua Oscar Freire Lobos, this spacious mall has a has spawned a sister market, a good selection of quality shops and few blocks up the hill, complete restaurants. Check out Arezzo, arguably with food stalls – though it’s worth Brazil’s best chain store for gorgeous noting that the newer branch is leather bags and shoes (prices rarely dip only open during the week. below R$100 for shoes and R$250 for bags); and Folic, another Brazilian chain with beautifully designed clothing and Mercadinho Chic is at Alameda great bags. The Livraria Cultura has a Santos 1347B, Jardim Paulista small auditorium. Avenida Das Nações (3088 2348/mercadinhochic.

Unidas 4777, Alto de Pinheiros (3024 com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri. 4200/shoppingvillalobos. com.br).

Other location Rua Oscar Freire Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 12720, Jardim Paulista. Open noon9pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and 8pm Wed-Sat; 11am-7pm Sun. restaurants vary.

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Christmas shopping Mercadinho Chic

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10/12/13 12:46

Film Reviews

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Frozen

Breaking the ice The chivalrous royal Hans (voiced by Santino Fontana) shares a romantic moment with the protagonist Anna (voiced by Kristen Bell)

There are three things classic Disney animations are supposed to have. One: belting showtunes. Two: a bit of danger and darkness amid all the schmaltz. And three: an ultimately conservative message wrapped up in a traditional feel-good happy ending. Loosely inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s The Snow Queen, Frozen initially promises to deliver on all three. We open with two tiny princesses playing together in their parents’ palace. Elsa is entertaining her younger sibling Anna by magically shooting ice and snow from her hands, creating a secret nocturnal playground that recalls the classic ‘Mice Follies’

episode of the Tom and Jerry cartoons.

As the girls grow up through the medium of song, the film proper begins, with icy blonde Elsa (voiced by Idina Menzel) charged never to use her dangerous powers or show the wider world who she really is. Cut off from her increasingly repressed older sister, spunky redhead Anna (Kristen Bell) is bored beyond belief, dreaming of true love. As a first act, it’ll do. We get where the characters are coming from, we can see where it might all go wrong for them, and everything looks very pretty.

It’s as Frozen unfolds that the film kicks up a notch. The standout song, ‘Let It Go’, feels like Disney’s most inspired coming-out anthem yet (‘Conceal, don’t feel, don’t let them know. Well, now

they know’). It’s also in the second act that we meet the irresistible comic relief, Olaf the Snowman (Josh Gad, familiar to musical fans as Elder Cunningham in The Book Of Mormon), and encounter the danger essential to a satisfying Disney experience. So Frozen has both tunes and darkness. But most

satisfying is a formula-defying finale that successfully subverts fairytale status quo. More of this sort of thing please, Disney.

Catherine Bray Frozen (Frozen - Uma aventura Congelante) is released on 3 January

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Dir. Chris Buck, Jennifer Lee, USA, 2013. Voices Kristen Bell, Idina Menzel, Jonathan Groff. 108 mins.

Chilly chuckles Olaf the Snowman arrives to provide some comic relief

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August: Osage County country. Even if you put your own clan’s knockdown brawls in mind, this film doesn’t occur anywhere close to reality. Joshua Rothkopf August: Osage County (Álbum de Família) is released on 27 December.

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reality check is needed: it’s pure lunacy to argue that Letts’s threehour play has retained any of its subtle power, or is a prestige Oscar candidate. Nor is anyone going to convince me that the material been properly adapted to the screen simply by shooting it on farm

Unhappy meal The contentious Weston family fuel up for their big fight

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Edges of seats will require reinforcement, given all the leaning forward in stupefied amazement that August: Osage County inspires.

That’s not a recommendation, unless uncut hysteria is your bread, butter and plate.

While Tracy Letts’s revered Oklahoma-set stage drama delivered plenty of live fireworks as the bitter Westons tore into each other scene after scene, no one here (certainly not director John Wells) reminded his A-list

cast that they were, in fact, making a movie and thus could tone it down a notch. The result isn’t far off from the screeching family dinner of The Texas Chain Saw Massacre, with Meryl Streep as Leatherface in a black shock wig, rolling eyes and a declarative, finger-jabbing wag. ‘Where’s the meat?!!’ Streep’s Violet hollers, guffawing at a misremembered Wendy’s [restaurant] commercial (and ignoring her cowed daughter’s correction). To be sure, you’re simply not a movie fan if juicy melodrama like this – more awaits, like Julia Roberts immortal delivery of ‘Eat the fish, bitch!’

– doesn’t make you smile. But a

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Dir. John Wells, USA, 2013.

130 mins. Meryl Streep, Dermot Mulroney, Julia Roberts.

Filial pity Barbara (Julia Roberts) holds her mother Violet (Meryl Streep)

Gloria

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Dir. Sebastián Lelio, Chile/Spain, 2013. 110 mins. Paulina Garcia, Sergio Hernández, Coca Guazzini, Antonia Santa María.

Age appropriate Gloria (Paulina García) as a mature lady on the prowl

Gloria (Paulina García) is a fifty- or sixtysomething divorcee sampling the Santiago singles scene for older folks. Since she’s happy with her work and gets on well with her grown-up kids, she’s mostly content with one-night-stands.

Then she meets Rodolfo, a gentle, quietly spoken businessman who clearly adores her, but who comes with baggage of his own.

Sebastián Lelio’s fine film boasts subtly nuanced, plausible performances, none more so than García as the strong-willed,

fun-loving but sometimes lonely protagonist. Though it’s most successful as a character study, the movie also works as an unusually honest variation on the traditional cinematic love story (it rings especially true on the difficulties of starting over after years of settled family life). It’s also strong, in passing, as a portrait of a certain comfortable segment of Chilean society, still somewhat unsure as to how to cope with its recent history.

There are just a couple of moments that don’t altogether convince: the predictable closing scene, especially, feels a little too neat and manipulative. Geoff Andrew Gloria (Gloria) is released on 20 December

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Main cinemas

Time flies O Tempo e o Vento

How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues.

Jardins

Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. It also also has the advantage of location – next door to the excellent bookshop Livraria Cultura, on the ground floor of the Conjunto Nacional building, on the bustling corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats.

Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions.

CineSESC This charming cinema on Rua Augusta has a bar at the back, separated by a glass screen, where you can enjoy a drink as you watch a film. One of the most popular cinemas for film buffs, it screens art-house movies and hosts a number of annual film festivals. Rua Augusta 2075, Consolação (3087 0500/sescsp.org.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Tickets R$6-$12.

Consolação & Higienópolis Cinemark Pátio Higienópolis This cinema, inside the Shopping Pátio Higienópolis mall, has a good projection system with seats at a steep enough gradient that you’ll always get a good view, even when the cinema is packed. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Higienópolis 646, Higienópolis (3823 2875/cinemark. com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. 6 screens, 98-264 seats. Tickets R$16-$22; R$8-$11 reductions. 3D film tickets R$26$28; R$3-$4 reductions.

Espaço Itaú de Cinema Frei Caneca Despite being located in a shopping centre, this cinema has a welcoming ambience.

Mainstream movies and arthouse titles screen daily. Rua Frei Caneca 569, 3rd floor, Frei Caneca Shopping, Consolação (3472 2365/itaucinemas.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 9 screens, 103-268 seats.

Tickets R$16-$22; 3D film tickets R$26$28.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Cinemark Villa Lobos This theatre is designed like other Cinemark locations, with some screens available for 3D films.

Priority is given to blockbusters though cult films are sometimes shown on the smaller screens. Avenida das Nações Unidas 4777, Villa Lobos Shopping, Lapa

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Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Cine Olido This wonderful little cinema forms part of a cultural complex, along with a theatre, dance space and photo gallery, that’s housed in a classic downtown building. Cine Olido has eclectic year-round programming, often hosting film festivals related to topical national and international cultural events. Avenida São João 473, Centro (3397 0171/ galeriaolido.sp.gov.br). Metrô 3, República.

1 screen, 236 seats. Tickets R$1; R$0.50 reductions. No credit cards.

Playarte Marabá Open from 1944 to 2007, this theatre reopened its doors in 2009. It was once known as the only survivor of the ‘cinelândia’ – downtown area of São Paulo that housed many theatres in the mid 20th century. Screens mainstream films. Avenida Ipiranga 757, Centro (5053 6881/playartepictures.com. br). Metrô 3, República. 5 screens, 122430 seats. Tickets R$4.50-$19.

neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE CINUSP Paulo Emílio A small cinema at the heart of the University of São Paulo campus, CINUSP shows free films to an audience of movie buffs. Rua do Anfiteatro 181, Colméia Favo 4, Cidade Universitária, Butantã (3091 3540/usp.br/ cinusp). 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

150 years of animosity between two families are the driving force behind O Tempo e o Vento (Time and the Wind), the epic film adaptation of Érico Veríssimo’s eponymous trilogy of books, which tells the story of the establishment and division of the Brazilian state of Rio Grande do Sul. At the end of the 19th century, as the Terra-Cambará family is preparing to defend its manor from the approaching Amaral clan, a matriarch, played by the Oscar-nominated Brazilian actress Fernanda Montenegro, receives a visit from her deceased husband, with whom she relives the trajectory of their love and their family. O Tempo e o Vento is released on DVD on 12 December. The film is Portuguese only.

(3024 3851/cinemark.com.br). 7 screens, 105-271 seats. Tickets R$18-$24; R$9$12 reductions; 3D films R$23-$28.

Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37;

R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues.

It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively

Kinoplex Vila Olímpia Considered one of the best in town, this cinema, inside Shopping Vila Olímpia, screens mainstream movies and is spotlessly clean, with comfortable screening rooms and friendly staff. Rua Olimpíadas 360, Vila Olímpia (3131 2006/kinoplex.com.br). 7 screens, 98-189 seats. Tickets R$22-$53; R$11-$26.50 reductions.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana Sala Cinemateca This former municipal slaughterhouse, a beautiful brick building with a garden in its interior patio, houses an important Brazilian film archive and an arthouse cinema that hosts events from the Mostra Internacional de Cinema de São Paulo, the city’s international film festival. Largo Senador Raul Cardoso 207, Vila Mariana (3512 6111/cinemateca.gov.br). 2 screens, 108210 seats. Tickets R$8; R$4 reductions.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cinemark Cidade Jardim Has gigantic screens, digital sound and projection, and love seats. Also includes two screens in the Cinemark Premier style, reclineable leather armchairs with foot rests, a lounge area, wine list, and special popcorn seasoned with flavoured oils – all with a high price tag. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Cidade Jardim (3552 1800/cinemark.com. br). 7 screens, 72-274 seats. Tickets R$22$53; R$11-$26,50 reductions; 3D films R$28-$57; R$14-$.28,50 reductions.

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Gay & Lesbian Listings

New Year’s bash Réveillon

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Clubs A Lôca If the image of Alice in Wonderland’s Queen of Hearts as the club’s logo doesn’t say it all, then the names of the parties – Tapa na Pantera (Brazilian slang for getting high) and Loucuras – Portuguese for madness – say the rest. Things can get crazy in this cavernous space where techno and pop music keeps the frisky twinks and trannies dancing. Rua Frei Caneca 916, Consolação (3159 8889/aloca. com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open midnight-7am Thu-Sat; 8pm-6am Sun. Admission R$25.

Bubu Lounge On Fridays, this club can get crowded and it can get hot, in every way imaginable. Get there early to avoid the queue, but once inside, be ready for some action, with hip beats in the entrance lounge, house and electronic on the dancefloor, and shake-yourbooty songs upstairs. Once a month, there’s Bubu Só Para Elas: ladies only.

Bubu Lounge, Rua dos Pinheiros 791, Pinheiros (3081 9659/bubulounge.com. br). Open 11.30pm-late Wed-Sat: 7pmlate Sun. Admission R$10-$60.

Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings.

The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35.

Danger Head downtown and prepare yourself for a hardcore experience.

There’s a live, 20-minute sex show at 2am in which three couples of varying sexuality do the do. They switch places

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How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

With a lofty jetset status to uphold, The Week is ringing in the new year the best way it knows how, putting on a series of Réveillon (New Year’s Eve) parties in Rio de Janeiro, Florianópolis and São Paulo, the latter of which features the guest French DJ, Aurel Devil, and a slew of resident DJs providing the soundtrack. Come early for the fruit spread and the fireworks display at midnight.

Doors open at 11pm. Call 3868 9944 or visit theweek. com.br for more details. See listings. on stage, giving everyone an excellent view. The crowd is a tad rough’n’tumble, but if you go to the dark room or have a couple of extra sips, you may not even notice. Rua Rego Freitas 470, Centro (3211 0371/dangerdanceclub.blogspot. com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm6am. Admission R$18.

Espaço Muss Can’t get up to Salvador?

Head downtown to this crowded, steamy spot for a sweet taste of Afro-Brazil. The tiny dancefloor is packed wall-to-wall with men jamming to live samba and DJ spun axé, hip hop and funk carioca. Rua Bento Freitas 66, República (3361 4160/ espacomuss.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open 8pm-late Wed; 9pm-late Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$15.

Flex In the war for the hottest shirtless boys in town, Flex is fighting with the big guns: a huge dancefloor, a booming sound system, go-go dancers to spice it all up and an open-air space for dancing and chilling out. Despite all its efforts, however, the club hasn’t managed to lure all the pretty boys away from The Week. Still, the crowd is young and fun. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767, Barra Funda (3612 4402/ flexclub.com.br) Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$25-$45.

The L Club In this girls’ club, you get all sorts: from Ellen DeGeneres and

Portia de Rossi types to everything in between. On Friday’s, there’s live MPB in the outside lounge area, but the main dance floor rocks with tribal house. Rua Luís Murat 370, Vila Madalena (2604 3393/thelclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am Fridays only. Admission R$15-$20.

The Week This party is what every other club (gay or straight) is trying to copy. It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with summerseason clones in Rio and Florianópolis, and an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. It’s already gone international, with parties popping up in Barcelona, London and Mexico City. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/theweek.com.br). Open midnight8.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$11; caipirinha R$21; cover R$35-$70.

Tunnel With exuberant music in the main room and vintage pop on the lower level, this party is full of young boys new to the gay scene. It gets a bit crowded, but there’s always the restaurant upstairs for a break and a snack. Don’t get too drunk, though: the place is full of stairs. Rua dos Ingleses 355, Bela Vista (3285 0246/ tunnel.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro.

Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$20.

Bars ‘Bar da Lôca’ The always-crowded ‘bar on the corner’ is actually the neighbourhood bakery-cum-watering hole officially named Bar Tom Zé. Its proximity to nearby club A Lôca turned it into the club’s unofficial waiting room. The crowd is mixed, sheltering twinks, bears and closet cases. It’s often standing-room only. Rua Frei Caneca 106, Consolação (3256 1946). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

O Gato One of the oldest joints in the area, O Gato is a mixture between bar and club. Thursdays are for romance, with a live band and background music.

On Fridays and Saturdays, both floors come into play, with a live band and DJ on the first floor, and electronic music on the second. Come and try your luck.

Rua Frei Caneca 462, Consolação (3256 3656/ogato.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10pm-6am Thu-Sat. Prices can of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$15.

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This

lively café-cum-bar, recently relocated to a larger space with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. The tasty mojito is a good way to get in the mood. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/freycafe.com. br). Open 4pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15.

GYM Academia Gaviões This threelevel, 24-hour fitness center serves as a pre-clubbing must for the gym bunnies and muscle marys. The monthly fee includes weight training, aerobics classes and karate lessons. Rua 13 de Maio 812, Bela Vista (3285 3269/ academiagavioes.com.br). Open 24hrs daily. Other locations throughout the city. Admission R$190 monthly.

GYM Commando Fitness The convenient location and the cheap membership fee make this small, no-frills gym a favourite among the gay men who live around Frei Caneca. Rua Augusta 810, Consolação (9442 8697). Open 6am-1am Mon-Thu; 6am-midnight Fri; 10am-6pm Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Admission R$15 daily; R$190 monthly.

SPORT SP Gay Bikers Brazil’s first gay cycling group does weekly weekend bike rides around town and sometimes outside the city. The only requirements: be over 18, have your own bicycle, and wear a helmet. If it rains, the ride is cancelled.

Meet 10am Sun, Greengrocer fruit shop, Praça Cordeiro de Farias, Consolação (sp-gay-bikers.blogspot.com). FREE

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Music & Nightlife Live previews

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Jorge e Mateus

Another country heard from The duo’s brand of sertanejo is love/hate

The wildly-popular duo is worth walking a country mile for, says CM Gorey They might look like a couple of average joes, but Jorge & Mateus

are actually a platinum-selling act from the Brazilian state of Goiás, riding into town for three dates to showcase their brand of one of the most widely popular musical styles in Brazil: sertanejo. Though the genre dates back to the 1920s, when

it was steeped firmly in the rural life its bucolic practitioners glorified, it’s since been influenced by the likes of Paraguayan polka, Mexican mariachi and US country, leaving us with two main varieties: sertanejo universitário, the more pop-infused version that’s swept up students with its choreographed moves and party-setting themes (think Michel Teló’s 2011 international hit, ‘Ai Se Eu Te Pego’), and the type Jorge & Mateus play. While their sound is by no means stripped down (the vocalist and harmonising vocalist/ guitarist flesh out their consistently clean production with a full backing band), their approach sticks closer to sertanejo’s roots.

But despite the scorn of MPBloving intellectuals and smug indie rock fans, Jorge & Mateus have a kind of honesty about what they do that places them at a safe distance from what anyone could fairly call pretentious: they certainly don’t sound as studied as any newly-touted soft-spoken Brazilian singer or overhyped gang of synth smashers.

And one anachronistic oddity worth noting in this age of analogueimitating software is that four of the duo’s five gold- or platinum-selling records were recorded live. Couple the constant outbursts of audience squeals and chorus singalongs with the walking accordion lines, unaffected guitars and shuffling drum beats, and the communal feel of simpler times is discernable rising off the thousands that packed into arenas to see the band.

Admittedly, Jorge & Mateus’s predictable arrangements and romantically minded lyrics aren’t going to be to everyone’s tastes, but as one of musica sertaneja’s best-selling acts at the moment, their simplicity may be a worthwhile starting point for the uninitiated.

Voz Ativa Madrigal play at 1.30pm on 21 and 28 December.

Natal Caipira play at 1.30pm on 22 and 29 December. ‘Em Cantos

de Natal’ is at 6.30pm on 21 December. SESC Vila Mariana, Rua Pelotas 141, Vila Mariana (5080 3000/sescsp.org.br). FREE

Jorge & Mateus play at Credicard Hall, Avenida das Nações Unidas 17955, Santo Amaro (4003 5588/ credicard.com.br/credicardhall) at 10.30pm on 20 and 21 December and at 9pm on 22 December.

Tickets R$50-$300.

Take refuge from the highpriced holiday spending with these free shows Perhaps aware of the customary splurging taking place at Christmastime, a trio of free holidaythemed shows at SESC Vila Mariana, ranging from the rustic to the sacred, should help you get in a festive mood – and save your cash for gift-giving.

Choral music might have a tendency to stick with tradition, but Voz Ativa Madrigal, who kick off the Yuletide concerts, mix classical and a capella MPB into its repertoire, bringing an unexpected approach to the choir format that branches out from the old world masters and modern Brazilian favourites incorporate compositions from across the globe, with celebratory pieces from the Americas, Africa and Europe.

Returning the focus closer to home, the four-piece Natal Caipira, which harmonises over acoustic guitar, fiddle, viola, the ukulele-esque cavaquinho and percussion, combines its original songs with folk tunes that hark back to the countryside, and to the reisado (epiphany), a type of character-based, door-to-door caroling-and-dance associated with the holiday season since Portuguese settlers introduced it to the NorthEastern Brazilian state of Sergipe.

Wrapping up the concert series with a show combining solo, duet and quartet vocal performances with piano accompaniment, ‘Em Cantos de Natal’ (Songs of Christmas) was specifically created to span music history by blending the work of Bach, Vivaldi, Schubert, Händel, Offenbach and J. Henry Newton with well known carols and spirituals to commemorate the holiday in all its seasonal splendour. CM Gorey

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Christmas concerts

Dazzling duets ‘Em Cantos de Natal’ will wrap up the holiday concert series

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Album reviews Eminem

Reflektor (Sonovox/Arcade Fire)

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Susanna and Ensemble Neon

The Forester (SusannaSonata)

Fans of Nordic Noir will want to stick this album of slow, melancholy, spacious, eerily beautiful and austerely compelling chamber-folk on their Christmas list alongside the Arne Dahl boxset. Susanna Wallumrød is a Norwegian singer

and composer whose collaborators include major ambient jazz pianist Tord Gustavson and alt country ledge Bonnie ‘Prince’ Billy. She’s best known for her slowcore covers of classic rock songs, not all of which are exactly triumphs. But this co-production with contemporary Norwegian group Ensemble Neon is her ninth album in as many years, and as original as they come.

If the melodies weren’t so gorgeous, you could call The Forester sound art. On the 15-minute title suite opener, woodwind, strings, piano and a long-necked Baroque theorbo lute conjure a lonely snowcovered landscape for Susanna’s cool and supremely collected voice to explore. The three-part composition tiptoes, then skips, then throbs to a stop, while violin harmonics hang glistening like frost drops on a spider’s web.

All in all, there’s something very Kate Bushy about Wallumrød. It’s not just the voice, but the strange, sensual stirrings of her imagination: ‘Lonely Heart’ asks you to put yourself in the emotional shoes of an oak tree, while ‘Intruder’ is addressed, with maternal warmth, to visiting aliens. The title track is creepier, its narrator lost in a forest with ‘earth in hands, dirt in mouth’.

As you may just have gathered, this isn’t an album for anytime, anywhere. It rewards your undivided attention, without which these compositions (including previous tracks newly arranged for Ensemble Neon) could seem aimless, or meagre, or plain dull. But listen in the spirit of the Slow Movement, buy into its chill Nordic atmosphere, and you could spend hours lost in the world of The Forester. Our one major criticism: it’s only 34 minutes long. Bella Todd

As a general rule, rap sequels aren’t sequels at all – they’re lazily conceived marketing ploys that fall into one of two categories: pathetic attempts to relive past glories, or successful attempts to relive past glories. Full credit to Eminem, then, for crafting a sequel that relates to its predecessor in more than just name.

More than 13 years after the release of the diamond-selling The Marshall Mathers LP, this follow-up takes old songs in new directions and new songs in old ones. ‘Bad Guy’ is a prime example of the former, adding a Dido-less chapter to ‘Stan’ in which Matthew, Stan’s little brother, seeks revenge. Elsewhere, Em edits past rhymes and steers old skits into ever-darker territory. For fans old enough to cherish the original MMLP, anachronisms like these are guaranteed highlights. But then there’s that latter category: new songs taken in old directions.

With the notable exception of Slim Shady, The Marshall Mathers LP 2 sees Em’s whole crew of incorrigible split-personas pile into the booth: cynically homophobic Eminem; adolescently angsty Eminem; angry, possibly mid-poo Eminem. These are the Ems behind Mathers’s mid-career slide into wackness, and they sound worse than ever in the context of a purported return to peak form.

But there are flashes of brilliance here, too. On ‘Rap God’, the 41-yearold cycles through styles – classic Eminem, Houston-inflected, fasterthan-Fu-Schnickens – like a one-man playlist. And Kendrick Lamar’s verse on ‘Love Game’, elatedly rapped in the key of Em, forces Mathers to dig deep to play the role of master.

MMLP2 is a legitimate sequel – there are no gimmicks here. But like most sequels, it encounters another problem: it’s just not as good as the first one. Nick Aveling

Music & Nightlife

‘Do you like rock ’n’ roll music?

Cos I don’t know if I do…’ croons Arcade Fire’s Win Butler, like an anti-Elvis in the opening bars of ‘Normal Person’. But don’t let his words mislead you: Kid A this aint.

While Reflektor is the Montreal outfit’s furthest venture onto the dancefloor, it remains a sprawling, confused myriad of exploration, with the band sounding possessed by the haunting qualities of dance music, rather than adopting the

genre as its own – from the voodoo disco of the album’s title track to the New Order nuances of ‘It’s Never Over’.

The spectre of making a seminal album is upon them, however. Since they slashed through the flabbybellied lad rock of the noughties with 2004’s morbidly theatrical Funeral, Arcade Fire have been redefining the limits of a guitar band. But almost ten years on, with LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy as producer, the group is ready to dip its toes into a more sonically diverse soundscape.

The Marshall Mathers LP 2 (Aftermath)

press image

Reflecting on the future The band’s latest effort proves to be forward-looking

If 2010’s The Suburbs captured lyrically the emotions of coming back home, Reflektor looks more expansively into our future, and there’s an portentous quality to Butler’s vocals. He performs from the perspective of both the parent and the child on many tracks (he and fellow singer Régine Chassagne became parents this year): ‘It seems like a big deal now, but you will get over, when you get older,’ he reassures on ‘It’s Never Over’, before aping an anxious adolescent on ‘Porno’ – ‘It makes me feel like there’s something wrong with me!’ Again, this is nothing new: ‘Children, wake up, before they turn the summer into dust,’ Win sang rapturously on Funeral. Only this time there’s a melancholy in his voice, something that tells us that we’re all already doomed. Harriet Gibsone

press image

JF Lalonde/press image

Arcade Fire

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10/12/13 19:36

Nightclubs Leonard Cohen Tribute How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots.

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Indie & rock Funhouse Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club. Behind the curtain, you’ll find a little black box of a dancefloor where they might be blaring electro dance music, pop anthems, hard rock, or funk carioca. Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/funhouse.com.br).

Open 10pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50.

Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/ infernoclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

Music & Nightlife

laís aranha/PRESS IMAGE

Eclectic Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wall-to-wall MPB. Stylishly decorated and with a haphazard, beatnik vibe, Alberta #3 might be small, but its three-floor split works well, with a busy dancefloor down in the basement.

Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm).

Bar Secreto More of a club than a bar, this candle-lit room is decked out with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, MPB and electronic. The exclusive club (you can’t call – contact is only via email) caters to fashionistas and hipsters. Rua Álvaro Anes 9, Pinheiros (sitedobar.com). Open 10pm5am Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$22; cover R$80.

Caos In a compact little space on Baixo Augusta, Caos crams in more of everything than most bars. More fun-loving customers, bumping elbows at the bar or packed tight on the dance floor. More eclectic DJ sets. And more – well, tat, with walls and shelves brimming with film posters, telephones and door knobs – all for sale during the day, too. Rua Augusta 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584.com. br). Open 7pm-2am Tue-Fri; 9pm-2am Sat; 7pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$20-$40.

Hot Hot Big with the fashion crowd and rich kids, Hot Hot has a plush upstairs bar, while downstairs a dark dancefloor has one of the best soundsystems in the city, pumping out electronic beats from Brazilian and international DJs. Rua Santo Antônio 570, Bela Vista (2985 8685/hothotsite. com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$30-$80.

Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has a slightly exclusive air, with high ceilings and decor inspired by 19thcentury gentlemen’s clubs, right down to the stuffed animal heads on the walls. But the real star of the show is the terrace, shared by smokers and non-smokers alike, from which you can gaze over at the Catedral da Sé. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/ lionsnightclub.com.br). Open midnight-6am Tue, Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$18; cover R$30-$120.

Love Story Love Story isn’t about the music – it’s about a decadent party that doesn’t get going until well after 2.30am, when party animals, off–duty hookers,

Disco This club is a favourite with the city’s young, beautiful and rich, although it’s quite small and often beyond crowded, so it might take a little patience until you find your spot out on the dancefloor. The highlight of the space – a creation of the architect Isay Weinfeld – is the glittering mirrored corridor that takes you from the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/ clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

MPB & Latin The influential 79-year-old Canadian singer, songwriter, poet and novelist Leonard Cohen is known as much for his songs ‘Everybody Knows’ and ‘Hallelujah’ as for the cover versions made famous by other artists like John Cale and Jeff Buckley. In the same interpretive spirit, vocalist Blubell joins with fellow singer Daniel Benevides and the Improvisado Trio to put a jazz-informed spin on a selection of Cohen tracks. 8.30pm on 20 December at SESC Vila Mariana, Rua Pelotas 141, Vila Mariana (5080 3000/sescsp.org.br). Tickets R$2.40-$12. tourists, clubbers and whoever else is still awake in the edgy downtown party zone lets loose until the early hours. A mix of house and dance music keeps the energy levels high until long after sunrise.

Rua Araújo 232, República (3231 3101/ danceterialovestory.tur.br). Metrô 3, República. Open midnight-late Mon-Sat. Prices cover R$60.

Electronica Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s house-turnedclub, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. The action is out the back, where media types and rich kids flit up and down the steps between two tree-covered courtyards, each with its own bar and dancefloor. DJs spin everything from electro rock and ’80s disco to house.

Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros

(3032 0371/casa92.blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinhas R$15; cover R$50.

Clash Club The young, pretty crowd at this swish, ultra–modern club gets seriously animated to the latest electronic music. Rua Barra Funda 969, Barra Funda (3661 1500/clashclub.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. Open midnightlate Tues, Fri, Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; cover R$50-$60.

D–Edge D–Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace. Its dedicated crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours. Expect top-class DJs and a powerful, crystal-clear sound system.

Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Open midnight-7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; caipirinha R$12; cover R$20-$80.

Serralheria Espaço Cultural Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, this nofrills venue in a small warehouse in Lapa has a laid-back vibe and super-friendly owners. Blending bar and exhibition space, you’ll find everything from photography to video art and sculpture on display in the covered outdoor bar area, while eclectic live music sets are hosted in the cosier indoor space. Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 0124/escapeserralheria.org). Open 9pm2am Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10.

Tapas Another nonchalantly cool hangout on the Baixo Augusta strip, Tapas is a twostorey bar with DJs and live bands packing out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of ages and musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação (tapasclub.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-$15.

Music venues Classical Sala São Paulo Sala São Paulo was constructed in a Louis XVI-style 1938 train station and redesigned to great fanfare as a cultural centre and concert hall. Praça Júlio Prestes 16, Luz (3367 9500/salasaopaulo.art.br).

Open box office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri or before concert; 10am-4.30pm Sat on performance days; 2hrs before concert Sun. Prices R$20-$110.

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Rock & indie

Jazz B A sister club of the Pinheiros Jazz nos Fundos, this space features a small but crowded grandstand on one side of the stageless performance area, and on the other, a crowd that remains standing while nursing drinks. Their schedule usually runs Monday through Saturday nights, with a preference for hosting combos doing jazz standards and Brazilian classics.. Rua General Jardim 43, República (3257 4290/jazzb. net). Open 8pm-2am Mon-Sat. Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Prices cover R$25-$35; chope R$6-$10; caipirinha R$14.

Jazz nos Fundos Dark, spartan and unpretentious, this bar is basically a hole-in-the-wall in a parking lot, but the music is excellent. The dimly-lit, rustic space provides a perfect setting for combos playing everything from old standards to Afro-Cuban styles, and their word-of-mouth-only publicity keeps this hidden gem one of the city’s best-kept secrets. Rua João Moura 1076, Pinheiros (3083 5975/jazznosfundos.net). Open 8pm-2.30am Tue-Sat; shows 10pm, 1am.

Metrô 2, Sumaré. Prices cover R$13$19; small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11.

Madeleine Musicians like playing this swish restaurant/bar, as it’s a pleasant space, with lots of wood, a high ceiling and even a mezzanine floor for a bird’s eye view. Rua Aspicuelta 201, Vila Madalena (2936 0616/madeleine.com.br). Open 7pm-last client Tue-Sat. Shows 9.30pm.

Prices cover R$17-$26 (minimum spend R$50 on Sat.); chope R$8.60; caipirinha R$16.90.

São Cristóvão This buzzy retrodecorated bar and restaurant is decorated with vintage football photos and memorabilia. On Mondays, they have live jazz with the Maurício de Souza Quintet.

Rua Aspicuelta 533, Vila Madalena (3097 9904). Open noon-4am Mon-Sat; noon-3am Sun. Prices chope R$4.90; caipirinha R$12.

Teta Bar e Restaurante One of the oldest jazz bars in Pinheiros, a casual and improvisational mood extends beyond the music. Whether at tables and couches in the anteroom, or next to the stage alongside a Schumann piano, the bar’s regulars make themselves very much at home, often drinking a homemade ‘Smirnoff ice’ – Smirnoff vodka, lemon juice, sugar and lemonade soda. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 1265, Pinheiros (3031 1641). Open 7.30pm-5am TueSat. Prices can of beer R$6.50-$7.20; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$15.

Beco 203 From rock to electro, go nuts with the fantastic Brazilian and international – mainly rock – bands that take the stage at the paulistano branch of the Porto Alegre nightspot.

Indie kids, hipsters and rockers mix on the crowded dance floor, while the upstairs mezzanine provides a calmer view of the stage. While bands are the main draw here, Beco also hosts regular parties, like Indierokkers on Saturdays and the all-you-can-drink-for-R$50 party Fuck Rehab! on Wednesday nights.

Smokers might consider quitting for the night, since the indoor smoking area is claustrophobically small. Rua Augusta, 609, Consolação(2339 0351/beco203.com. br). Open midnight-late Wed-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$14; cover R$20-$40.

Cine Joia This former cinema close to the Praça da Sé is the jewel in the crown of São Paulo’s alternative music scene.

Lovingly restored, it opened its doors in 2011, revealing to the world a diamondshaped bar, elegantly sloping parquet floors (promoting good views, even from the back) and a top-notch video-mapping system.The lineups of arty indie have been as disarming as the stunning mosaic façade outside. Praça Carlos Gomes, 82, Liberdade (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv). Open 9pm-late, days vary – check website Metrô 1 Liberdade. Prices small bottle beer R$8; vodka with cranberry juice, R$16.

Hangar 110 This gritty, long-established punk venue is in a grotty and desolate downtown area. Shows finish early so the crowd can get the last metrô home, because you don’t want to hang around late at night. Rua Rodolfo Miranda 110, Bom Retiro (9389 3365/hangar110. com.br). Metrô 1, Armênia. Open 7-11.30pm. Prices can of beer R$4; cover R$10-$20.

MPB Grazie a Dio! This unpretentious place is one of the best live venues in São Paulo to hear great musicians play samba, samba rock and MPB. Get close, dance, and smell the sweat – or sit out back and have dinner. There’s live music TuesdaySunday nights, but Friday nights with the excellent samba rock combo Clube de Balanço, are recommended. On Sundays, Marquinho Dikuã, one of São Paulo’s leading sambistas, puts on a fiery show with the Sambasonics. Rua Girassol 67, Vila Madalena (3031 6568/grazieadio. com.br). Open 8pm-late Tue-Sun; shows 10pm Tue, Wed; 11pm Thu-Sun. Prices cover R$15-$25; small bottle beer R$4.40; caipirinha R$10.40.

Music & Nightlife

Jazz

Samba Bar Brahma Bar Brahma is a São Paulo institution for its line-up of live samba, MPB, choro and jazz. Avenida São João 677, República (3333 3030/barbrahmasp. com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11amlate daily. Shows 10.30pm weekdays; 2pm & 9pm Sat; 1.30pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.10-$5.90; caipirinha R$16.50-$19.20; cover R$10-$68.

Bar do William In this simple, cosy place in owner William’s garage, local samba masters gather to play traditional tunes. This is for the real aficionados – but it comes highly recommended. Rua Águas Virtuosas 347, Casa Verde. Open 7pmmidnight Sat. Casa da Bisa Located in the heart of Casa Verde, this house has a wide garden that is perfect for a feijoada with live samba on a sunny day. The crowd is young and, as it closes early, generally off somewhere else afterwards. Avenida Baruel 651, Casa Verde (3951 6472/ casadabisaeventos.com.br). Open 2-11pm Thu-Sat. Vila do Samba This no-frills joint specialises in live ‘roots’ samba, played in a ring in the middle of a big, comfy yard.

Saturday has feijoada; Sundays churrasco.

Rua João Rudge 340, Casa Verde (3858 6641/viladosamba.com.br). Open TueThu 8pm-2.30am; Fri 9pm-4am; Sat 1-11.30pm; Sun 2-11pm. Prices 600ml beer R$5.50; caipirinha R$10.

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10/12/13 19:19

Football & World Cup 2014 Pray for reign

Ever since 1950, when 173,850 spectators – the largest-ever World Cup audience – crammed into Rio de Janeiro’s Maracanã stadium and watched perplexed as Uruguay snatched away the championship from Brazil at the game’s end, the country has been forced to wait for another chance to win the world title on its home ground. But is it possible?

2014 brings hope. After seven years of preparation which included upgrades to infrastructure, many South American Cup games and friendly matches, and a Confederations Cup win by the Brazilian national team, the second World Cup hosted by the world’s most famous football country is just around the corner.

World Cup fever will likely grip the country earlier when compared with years past, especially when the the 32 participating teams arrive in their host cities. In the months of June and July, tourists will mix with passionate local fans in São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte, Brasília, Cuiabá, Curitiba, Fortaleza, Porto Alegre, Recife, Manaus, Natal and Salvador.

The tournament’s national sides

Paulo Whitaker/reuters

With the groups decided in FIFA’s final draw, the 2014 World Cup continues to raise fans’ expectations, says Cecília Gianesi

Rally round the flag Brazilian fans decked out in national colours at Maracanã, during the Confederations Cup 2013

have already been determined, and their various groups have been decided in the game show-like atmosphere of FIFA’s Final Draw ceremony, and include every one of the seven teams besides Brazil to have ever won the Cup: Uruguay, Italy, Germany, England, Argentina, France and Spain.

Other optimistic teams include the Netherlands – which qualified easily – and Portugal (playoff winners

in a tough duel against Zlatan Ibrahimovic’s Sweden), joining other major players in the tournament, but they’ll depend heavily on the striker Cristiano Ronaldo to advance.

Despite Ibrahimovic having said that a World Cup without him isn’t worth watching, there are plenty of other stars who promise to make things interesting. Lionel Messi, who has yet to do for Argentina what he can do for his club Barcelona, will

THE teAms OF THE WORLD CUP 2014 Algeria

Colombia

Ghana

Netherlands

Argentina

Costa Rica

Greece

Nigeria

Australia

Côte d’Ivoire

Honduras

Portugal

Belgium

Croatia

Iran

Russia

Bosnia-Herzegovina

Ecuador

Italy

Spain

Brazil

England

Japan

Switzerland

Cameroon

France

Korea Republic

Uruguay

Chile

Germany

Mexico

USA

lead the Brazilians’ biggest rivals.

Spain comes with much of the crew that earned the team FIFA’s numberone ranking, including the masterful Andrés Iniesta and Xabi Alonso showing off their now-famous short and quick ‘Tic-Tac’ style of play.

Germans Bastian Schweinsteiger and Mario Götze are the big names from their strong national team.

Perennial favourites Brazil can rely on the talent of Neymar and the precision of Paulinho – both returning home from their European clubs – while the ever-reliable Daniel Alves and Thiago Silva help to reinforce the team’s power. All this weaponry will be directed by coach Felipão, who’s no stranger to victory, having led Brazil to its fifth Cup championship in 2002, when he smartly bet on the then-discredited Ronaldo to shine in Japan and Korea.

The team has a long way to go to reach the final, which is set to take place in the very same spot in which Brazil suffered its historic 1950 defeat to Uruguay. A slimmed down and remodeled Maracanã will host around 78,000 fans, the majority of whom will be Brazilians praying that the football gods make July 13, 2014 a happier day than the tragic one, nearly 64 years earlier.

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SP Essentials 56 58

SHUTTERSTOCK

Map Resources

Transmission One of the many antennae that top the high-rise buildings along busy Avenida Paulista

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Resources EMERGENCIES

TELEPHONES

Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

DiaLling & codes

For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil.

Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

INST

@timeoutsp

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number). ricardo martins (@umricardo)

HEALTH

instant São Paulo

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit).

The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.

Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket.

A ride to any destination costs R$3 and tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

Show us your best SP Instagrams for a chance to see one featured on this page. This month’s prized pic is from Ricardo Martins (@umricardo), who captured the contrasting colours of this building as he walked along the Minhocão – the downtown flyover that’s closed to traffic evenings and Sundays. Follow us on Instagram and tag your photos with #timeoutsp, and we’ll feature our favourite one here each month.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App, or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand.

Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which your licence was issued.

Avis 3259 6868/avis.com Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

CYCLING

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

WALKING

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot.

The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins.

When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo.com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img. org.br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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