Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.38/jan-fev. 2013

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Party

Jump into Carnival feet first with SP’s friendly street blocos, sweaty samba school rehearsals, and the glitz of the Sambódromo

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

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São Paulo magazine at the city’s best newsstands, at the SPTuris stands in Guarulhos and Congonhas airports, and at Movida Rent a Car.

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This month in São Paulo January - February 2014

City Beat The word on the street.

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Shopping & Style

8

Features Modernist perspective

12

Film 46 The king of US goofball comedy,

As São Paulo celebrates its 460th birthday, an exhibition of Brazilian Modernist photography opens, capturing the city at a time when the urban landscape, as well as the arts, were undergoing a radical transformation.

Carnival, SP-style

Will Ferrell, on the forthcoming sequel to Anchorman, plus the latest film reviews.

Gay & Lesbian 49

16

Stay in town for a grassroots celebration replete with ER COV RY samba school shindigs, STO street parties and a showdown at the Sambódromo.

Fashion, art and diversity converge, fittingly, in SP’s Metrô República station for the photography exhibition, Moda & Diversidade.

Music & Nightlife

Food & Drink Hot new openings

24

Bars & Cafés

35

Performance 53 The city gets a new theatre festival,

French and Scottish craft beer chains are joined by airline-themed bars in our round-up of new bars.

Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover photography Carlos Alkmin

Football

54 São Paulo’s teams look to rebound

Rafael Wainberg/Press Image

Art buyers and casual enthusiasts alike can check out the work of unrepresented artists in the fifth edition of the ‘Artists Without Galleries’ exhibition.

featuring the best in contemporary international performance.

from a disappointing 2013 season.

South-easterly Sultry decor at Tomyam, a new Southeast Asian eatery

SP Essentials 55 Essential information for visitors, and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your pix in print.

Quote of the month

Ademar Manarini/Press Image/reproduction by Iara Venanzi

42

50

Top-class local acts at Cine Joia set the tone this summer.

Put that New Year’s detox diet on hold and check out some of the coolest new culinary hotspots.

Art & Museums

45

Espaço Zebra joins SP’s growing list of all-in-one spaces where you can eat, drink, shop or just hang.

It seems ridiculous when we look back. As I assume the 2010s will in 2040.

People will be sitting in spacesuits going, ‘Can you believe people used to wear that?’

Modern love Itaú Cultural brings angular Modernist photography to the fore

Will FerrelL, On the Anchorman 2 release See page 46

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City Beat

ALEX SILVA/ESTADÃO CONTEÚDO

The Big Picture

Atmospheric disturbances With almost biblical fury, black clouds gather over São Paulo one afternoon in January. It’s an almost daily occurrence here at this time of year: fast-moving summer storms laced with heavy rain and lit by spectacular flashes of lightning. Brazil receives 50 million cloud-to-ground lightning strikes annually, with the majority of fatal bolts hitting victims within São Paulo state – so what looms above represents a very real danger.

São Paulo is served WITH 32 magazines around the globe, from Mexico City to Shanghai, and many more cities covered online, Time Out is also one of the world’s best respected producers of travel guides, featuring everything we know about cities distilled into carefully curated, densely packed books. With the World Cup hurtling towards us, we spent the end of 2013 producing and distributing thousands of copies of a brand new, special-edition guide to São Paulo, in no less than seven languages: English, Portuguese, Spanish, French, Italian, German and Japanese. Distributed in 26 countries and intended to tempt Brazil’s World Cup visitors into lingering in our beloved city, the guide – the first of many we’ll be producing this year, Brazil-wide – can be checked out online at j.mp/TOSP_issuu 8 timeout.com/sao-paulo January/February 2014 200 CITY BEAT NEW_Bia_4fev.indd 8

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LICHT

Fraldinha Congratulations for 47 years, you are now a gastronomic property of the city of Sao Paulo prêmio paladar estadão 2013

in 1967 she brought joy to the world...

and with only 18 years old, was reason of proud...

turned magazine cover and was considered the best in town.

Templo da Carne Marcos Bassi

Rua Treze de Maio . 668 . Bela Vista . São Paulo . 55. 11. 3288.7045 . www.marcosbassi.com.br

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Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editor (English) Catherine Balston Deputy Editor (Portuguese) Fabiana Caso Contributing Assistant Editors Rafael Argemon, Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Mariana Leite, Ana Cecília de Paula, Christopher Mack Proofreader Marina Monzillo Rio de Janeiro Editor Alice Moura

From art exhibitions to gigs, festivals, historic tours, and the inside track on hundreds of bars, botecos, cafés and restaurants, timeout.com/sao-paulo is packed with the best São Paulo has to offer.

Design Art Director Bia Gomes Print Production Gráfica Aquarela Contributors Text Dave Calhoun, Guy Lodge, Tom Huddleston, Ana Cecília de Paula, Fabio Rigobelo, Ben Williams

Coming up online

Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro

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Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro Administration Finance Manager Sueli Maria da Silva

Campus party Workshops,

talks, debates, games and camping are all back on the line-up for the seventh edition of the digital culture event. 27 January to 2 February. j.mp/cmprty

Burns supper With traditional haggis, music from the St. Andrew Society pipe band, and a toast to poet Robert Burns, this event is as Scottish as São Paulo gets. 15 February. j.mp/burnsup

last month’s most viewed

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD David Woodley International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

Bars with a view From the swanky hotel rooftop of Skye (see photo) to lesser-known gems, find out where to team a drink with a jaw-dropping view of São Paulo. j.mp/TOSP_view

Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

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No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.

Vila madalena art walk Venture beyond Vila Madalena’s glossy façade of boutiques and cute cafés to discover some of the city’s most striking graffiti. j.mp/strtartSP

Top São Paulo tours On

foot, by bike, at night, with a rented friend, or a specialist guide, we round up some of the best tours for getting acquainted with the city. j.mp/TOSP_sptours

The key to our five-star rating system

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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José Yalenti/press image/reproduction by João L Musa

Light fantastic José Yalenti, a founder of São Paulo's Foto Cine Clube Bandeirante, captures a fountain on the city’s Avenida 9 de Julho, in ‘Fonte 9 de Julho’ (1952)

Modern perspective

A stunning exhibition of Modernist photos pays a fitting tribute to São Paulo’s role in shaping Brazilian photography, writes CM Gorey

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José Yalenti/press image/reproduction by João L Musa

Step change Two children draw the viewer’s eye to the centre of a striking geometrical composition in ‘Paralelas e Diagonais’ (1950), also by José Yalent

Paulo Pires/press image/reproduction by Edouard Fraipont

I

n honour of São Paulo’s 460th birthday, on 25 January, Itaú Cultural turns its attention to the moment at which the expanding city was captured in the lenses of its 20th-century visionaries. The exhibition ‘Moderna para Sempre: Fotografia Modernista Brasileira na Coleção Itaú’ (Modern Forever: Modernist Brazilian Photography in the Itaú Collection), at Itaú's cultural centre on Avenida Paulista, brings together 116 images by Brazilian photographers, who were beginning to develop their own unique perspectives, from the late-1930s on, as the metropolis unfurled around them. Zooming in on the architectural transformations taking place, as well as on everyday items and unexpected angles, they employed the jarring perspectives, patterned textures and geometric abstractions that became emblematic of Modernist photography, enjoying a revival of interest currently in the world of fine art.

At last year's SP-Arte/Foto fair, the São Paulo gallery Luciana Brito presented a beautiful stand dedicated to Brazilian Modernist photography, featuring works by Gaspar Gasparian, Geraldo de Barros and Thomaz Farkas; while the maestro German Lorca put in an appearance at the stand of Galeria FASS, aged 91 and clearly delighted to be there.

Work by each of the aforementioned photographers features in the exhibition at Itaú Cultural, on display until 9 March. And beyond the pleasure of the textures, the shapes and the shades of black and white, the images also demonstrate the vital importance of São Paulo’s urban landscape in forging Brazilian photography.

The birth of Brazilian Modernism can famously be traced to a single, watershed event: the seminal ‘Semana de Arte Moderna’ (‘modern art week’), which took place at São Paulo’s Theatro Municipal in 1922, in a five-day event proclaiming the arrival of a new spirit and an experimental language across the arts, albeit as yet without any direct reference to photography. Photography clubs began forming in Brazil soon after, in the 1930s – notably here in São Paulo in the form of the Foto Cine Clube Bandeirante in 1939.

According to the curator of the Itaú exhibition, Iatã Cannabrava, the images in the show display ‘the search for shapes and volumes, abstractions and surrealism, in an evident influence of the old European avant-garde’.

Those intentions are clear in the optical illusion of Fabio Morais Bassi’s Perspectivas, Gunter E. G. Schroeder’s untitled mirrored snowflake-like

Fluid exposure ‘Estudo Abstrato nº 1’ (Abstract study no. 1) by Paulo Pires

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Work in progress ‘Construtores’ by Paulo Pires, captures the early days in the construction of the Copan building

Georges Rado/press image

‘Moderna para Sempre: Fotografia Modernista Brasileira na Coleção Itaú’ is at Itaú Cultural, Avenida Paulista 149, Paraíso (2168 1700/ itaucultural.org.br) until 9 March. FREE

Paulo Pires/press image

diagonals, and the stark images of Georges Radó’s Composição N and Espinhas, which display the cold detail of X-ray slides. Catalan exile Marcel Giró’s Esboço scratches out thin lines like Jackson Pollock details, hiding a placid lake and aquatic plants in plain sight, and giving ‘a special delicacy to match the forms, so inherent to modern photography’, as Cannabrava describes it.

Other works like Paulo Pires’s three photos from 1960, Estudo Abstrato nº 1, Comporta and Curvas, are intriguing studies in movement, while Pires’s Construtores catches silhouetted workers during the early stages of erecting Oscar Niemeyer’s iconic Copan building, in downtown São Paulo. But the Modernist Brazilian view is perhaps best seen in the 23 works by José Yalenti.

Photographs like the unearthly, glowing fountain in Fonte 9 de Julho and the stunning Paralelas e Diagonais (see previous page) carry echoes of the German Bauhaus school, and of works such as those by Hungarian artist László Moholy-Nagy.

The exhibition, which has already toured a number of Brazilian cities, now includes a dozen recent acquisitions, including works by Yalenti, de Barros and Pires, serving as a fitting tribute to São Paulo, which Cannabrava rightly calls, ‘one of the most important stages for Modernism’.

Spinal tap Georges Radó reveals intriguing skeletal forms in his startling, monochrome fishbones photograph from 1960, ‘Espinhas’

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DANCING IN THE STREET The women of Ilú Obá de Min shake things up

Hot samba school rehearsals, hedonistic street parades and an all-singing, all-dancing Sambódromo showdown make São Paulo’s Carnival one to stick around for

A

s the summer days heat up and the New Year’s holiday spirit rolls on, the sounds of the drums at local samba school rehearsals grow ever more frequent: it’s the city gearing up for its Carnival celebrations. And while the bombastic, big-budget side of the Brazilian holiday celebrations were slow coming to São Paulo – the Oscar Niemeyer-designed Sambódromo was only opened in 1991 – and are far from acquiring the hedonistic reputations of coastal party places like Rio and Salvador, the pre-Lenten festivities here are well worth a visit. Take part in local folksy customs as well as the glitz and glam of the Sambódromo parade, where the escolas de samba (samba schools) process in a shimmy of sequins and feathers down the 530-metre avenue, dancing and singing their official samba in hopes of being crowned champion.

For a taste of the city’s original Carnival, head for the streets where the blocos – marching bands followed by rag-tag but enthusiastic troupes of revellers, and enterprising locals wheeling trolleys of cold beers and waters – start springing up all over the city in the weekends leading up to Carnival. Each year brings new and ever more original blocos to the lineup alongside the more traditional ones, like Bixiga’s Bloco dos Esfarrapados, which first started in 1947.

So if you’re in town and feeling ready to jump feet first into São Paulo’s Carnival, follow our lead to find the best of the samba school rehearsals and street parties kicking off throughout the city.

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People get ready ALTHOUGH THE BIG SHOW takes place at the Sambódromo on 28 February and 1 March, the competing members of the Grupo Especial – the top fourteen São Paulo samba schools – endure a full year of heavy planning and preparation.

And before they arrive with their extravagant floats, glittering costumes, celebratory tunes and hopes of taking first place and its cash prize, the schools host rehearsals (‘ensaios’) in the weeks leading up to Carnival.

The rehearsals are a chance for anyone planning to parade to learn that year’s chosen song (samba-enredo), for the drummers to master their rhythms, for the dancers to get in step, and for the neighbourhoods to start the celebrations.

But don’t let the term ‘rehearsal’ confuse you – a samba school ensaio is as much a party as a chance for the school to practice, and everyone is welcome for a cover fee. They can be crowded, sometimes slightly chaotic events, so take care to work out beforehand how you’re getting home, and leave valuables behind. Also note that some schools – like Vai-Vai, Pérola Negra and Camisa Verde – are more centrally located and easier to get to via public transport than others.

EDUARDO MONNERAT/PRESS IMAGE

Get the lowdown on where to join São Paulo’s samba school rehearsals before their most important night of the year

On the beat A cluster of drummers from the Rosas de Ouro samba school pound the skins together

G.R.C.E.S. X-9 PAULISTANA

THE CUP STARTS HERE

Rua Ité, Vila Guilherme, 2959 3377, X9paulistana.com.br.

With green, red and white as its colours, X-9 (pronounced ‘shees-nove’) Paulistana has only won the main competition at the Sambódromo twice in 36 years. 2013’s theme – a paean to the drylands of the North East – gives way to this year’s crazed ‘Insano’ (insane) theme.

Fridays and Sundays at 8pm. R$10.

With the help of a big name, a lesser-known school hopes to be noticed After nearly six months of negotiations, Leandro de Itaquera, a traditional samba school from the city’s East Zone, received authorisation from FIFA to use the World Cup name in the theme of its entry in 2014’s Carnival parade. The school is located in the same neighbourhood as Arena Corinthians, the stadium that will host the World Cup’s opening game – a fact that no doubt helped this small samba school to get the approval of world football’s governing body. Leandro de Itaquera’s best showing in SP’s Carnival so far took place back in 1991, when it came in fourth. Runners-up last year in the second division (‘Grupo de Acesso’), the school will be aiming for its best year ever with its theme, ‘Go Brazil, Football is Heart: In 2014, the World Cup Starts Here’, when it enters the Sambódromo as the first parading group in the competition.

G.R.C.S.E.S. UNIDOS DE VILA MARIA

Rua Cabo João Monteiro da Rocha 447, Vila Maria, 2981 3154, unidosdevilamaria.com.br.

Festooned in green, blue and white, Unidos de Vila Maria is one of São Paulo’s premiere samba schools, and its rehearsals are well worth checking out. Last year, it told the story of Korean immigration to São Paulo with a ‘Made in Korea’ theme honouring the 50th anniversary of the group’s arrival to the city. For 2014, the school turns its attention inward to commemorate its own 60th birthday with a theme celebrating children’s toys and games.

Fridays and Sundays at 9pm. R$10.

G.R.C. LEANDRO DE ITAQUERA Avenida Augusto Carlos Baumann 588, 2057 5456, leandrodeitaquera.com.br.

Sundays at 6pm. R$10.

PRESS IMAGE

G.R.C.S.E.S. VAI-VAI

Rua São Vicente 276, Bela Vista, 3266 2581, vaivai.com.br.

In this, the final year that this 84-year-old school holds its rehearsals in the neighbourhood of Bixiga before moving to its new headquarters downtown, Vai-Vai hopes to return to the winning form that made it Carnival champion back in 2011. This year, it will fill the Sambódromo with the sights and sounds of a theme dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the São Paulostate countryside town of Paulínia.

Thursdays and Sundays at 7pm. R$10-$20.

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G.R.C.E.S. MOCIDADE ALEGRE

Avenida Casa Verde 3498, Limão, 3857 7525, mocidadealegre.com.br.

Banking on a spiritually-motivated theme about having faith this year, Mocidade hopes to regain the championship it last won in 2009. At its rehearsal, adventurous types can follow the route of the practicing drummers as they march around the Limão neighbourhood and back to the home base for the rest of the party.

Fridays at 7pm; Sundays at 6pm. R$5-$15.

G.R.E.S.M. CAMISA VERDE E BRANCO

LEANDRO NASCIMENTO/PRESS IMAGE

Rua James Holland 663, Santa Cecília, 3392 7031, camisaverde.net.

The Barra Funda-based school has been on a rollercoaster ride since 2002, when it peaked as vice-champion in the main parade at the Sambódromo. The school is still parading in the second tier Grupo de Acesso, and will try to return to the main league with a history-based birthday theme of an imagined party at a quilombo – a Brazilian fugitive slave settlement.

Wednesdays and Sundays at 9pm. R$10.

Crazy for Carnival Dancers from X9 Paulistana samba school, which chose ‘Insane’ for its 2014 theme

Rua Sérgio Tomás 622, Bom Retiro, 3494 9040, grestommaior.com.br.

Started in 1973 by splitters from the smallish samba school Camisa Verde e Branco, the closest Tom Maior has come to a big-boy championship was coming fifth in 2008. In this year’s entry, the school plans on taking the crowd on a spirited journey to the tourist destination of the spectacular Iguaçu waterfalls, on the Brazil-Argentina border.

Tuesdays and Fridays at 8pm; Saturdays at 9pm. R$10.

SOCIEDADE ROSAS DE OURO

Rua Coronel Euclides Machado 1066, Limão, 3931 4555, sociedaderosasdeouro.com.br.

Conquering the crowds in 2010 with its first-place-winning chocolate theme, and placing

second in 2012 and 2013, the samba school Rosas – which was started under the auspices of Rio powerhouse Mangueira – hopes to capture another win at the Sambódromo this year by remaining at the forefront of the judges’ minds with its theme, ‘Inesquecível’ (unforgettable).

Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 9pm.

R$20-$30.

G.R.E.S. PÉROLA NEGRA

Rua Girassol 51, Vila Madalena, 3031 9349, gresperolanegra.com.br.

Representing the neighbourhood of Vila Madalena, Pérola Negra – Black Pearl – will be hoping 2014 brings better luck than 2012, when a fire on its float set Pérola’s chances at a win aflame. This year, the school goes for a hopeful theme: ‘Everyone Is In Search of Happiness’.

Sundays at 7pm. R$10.

TVGERAÇÃOZ/PRESS IMAGE

G.R.E.S. TOM MAIOR

Everybody dance now Partygoers at Vila Maria

SAMBÓDROMO

The essentials of Carnival’s main event

Note that it’s forbidden to take umbrellas, bottles and cans into the Sambódromo, but take a plastic poncho, since it might well rain. The Carnival parade is at Anhembi Parque, Avenida Olavo Fontoura 1209, Santana (2226 0400/anhembi.com.br). 10pm7am, 28 February and 1 March.

FERNANDO HEISE/SPTURIS

The purpose-built Sambódromo, part of the Anhembi Parque complex in the north of São Paulo, hosts the all-night-long Carnival parade each year, with a long parade ground flanked on both sides by stands. Tickets in the stands run from R$90-$550, depending on the date. More expensive options are available, including private hospitality suites (camarotes) for up to 25 people that go for as much as R$65,000. If you have Brazilian ID numbers, the easiest way to book is online (ingressofacil.com.br) or by phone (4003 2245). You can also pick up tickets in person at Anhembi Parque.

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Bloco party

DAY BY DAY

Pick a date and head for the streets with one of SP’s blocos

First timers Tarado Ni Você makes its debut

WALTERANTUNES/PRESS IMAGE

IF YOUR IDEA of a fun Carnival in São Paulo has absolutely nothing to do with the megalomania of the major samba school parades, then the city streets just might be the place for you. Unlike Rio de Janeiro, where classic parades such as the Cordão do Bola Preta and the Banda de Ipanema attract literally millions onto Rio’s streets, the travelling party blocos in São Paulo have never been better – and while the number of participants increases every year, they still avoid the uncomfortable overcrowding of the carioca festivities.

The oldest paulistano Carnival parade, the Bloco dos Esfarrapados, has been bringing together a vibrant mixed crowd in the heart of the neighbourhood of Bixiga since 1947, always setting off from Rua Conselheiro Carrão on the Monday of Carnival (3 March this year). Also located in Bixiga – considered one of the birthplaces of paulistano samba – are both the União Municipal dos Estudantes Secundaristas de São Paulo (UMES) Caras Pintadas parade, and the Banda do Candinho bloco, which has been on the go for 32 years.

Another long-established and entertaining bloco is Banda Redonda, which takes to the streets on the Monday prior to Carnival (24 February) at the corner of Rua da Consolação and Rua Teodoro Baima, directly in front of the church, Igreja da Consolação. Famous for its LGBT following, this parade goes for visual delirium, with drag queens and throngs of people – predominantly young men – decked out in lavish costumes. The itinerary involves a veritable tour of the old parts of the Centro: it

On show Street strutting with the Kolombolo bloco

FEB

SUNDAY

2 Pilantrági Avenida Professor

passes through Anhangabaú, the Theatro Municipal, and the junction of Avenida Ipiranga and São João before coming to a close at Praça da República.

Nearby, at Largo do Arouche, the Banda do Fuxico is another of the city’s traditionally gay blocos, and among the attractions here are a high-heel race and a drag queen contest, which takes place on the Sunday before Carnival (23 February).

On the same day, one of Carnival’s most beautiful parades takes place at the Major Quedinho overpass: Ilú Obá de Min, a women’s bloco dedicated to the celebration of Carnival’s African roots. Around 100 colourfully adorned percussionists animate their samba performance with the rhythms and chants of African songs.

But while some honour traditions,the blocos of São Paulo aren’t stuck in the past. Newer blocos such as Acadêmicos do Baixo Augusta, Santo Forte de Rua, Pilantrági (which takes its name from a party at the club Bebo Sim) and Tarado Ni Você

Alfonso Bovero 1107, Pompeia. 2pm.

FEB

SATURDAY

22 Kolombolo Diá Piratininga

Praça Aprendiz das Letras (Rua Belmiro Braga, no number), Vila Madalena. 3pm.

Tarado Ni Você Avenida Ipiranga and Avenida São João, República. Noon.

Pholia na Luz Parque da Luz, Centro. 3pm.

FEB

SUNDAY

23 Acadêmicos do Baixo

Augusta Rua Augusta and Rua Marquês de Paranaguá, Consolação. 2pm.

Banda do Fuxico Largo do Arouche, República. 7pm.

Confraria do Pasmado Rua Nova

Veneza, no number, Vila Madalena. Noon.

Ilú Obá de Min Rua São Domingo and Rua Abolição, Bixiga. 6pm.

Pholia na Luz Parque da Luz, Centro. 3pm.

Santo Forte de Rua Praça Dom Orione, no number, Bixiga. 4pm.

FEB

MONDAY

24 Banda Redonda Rua da

Consolação and Rua Teodoro Baima, República. 9pm.

FEB

TUESDAY

25 U.M.E.S. Caras Pintadas Rua

Rui Barbosa 323, Bixiga. 5pm.

FEB

WEDNESDAY

26 Banda do Candinho Ruas Santo

Antônio & Treze de Maio, Bixiga. 9pm.

FEB

FRIDAY

28 Banda do Trem Elétrico Rua

FORA DO EIXO/FLICKR

THIAGO BORBA/PRESS IMAGE

When the blocos (roving parties) go parading in the days and weeks leading up to Carnival, the streets are the place to be, says Fabio Rigobelo

Hip hip hooray Acadêmicos do Baixo Augusta

Augusta and Rua Luís Coelho, Consolação. 6.30pm.

Lira da Vila Praça Rotary, Vila Buarque.

6pm.

MAR

SATURDAY

1 Lira da Vila Praça Rotary, Vila

Buarque. 6pm. (making its debut this year, and entirely dedicated to the songs of musician Caetano Veloso) all tend to draw a young, cool crowd.

Because of its grand scale, one major exception to the more intimate feel of SP blocos is Vai Quem Quer, which for 33 years has set off from Praça Benedito Calixto in Pinheiros, before navigating the surrounding streets of neighbouring Vila Madalena. More like a paulistano version of the Rio blocos, it’s one of the busiest parades in the city and draws a slightly more well-to-do crowd alongside loads of curious tourists.

Keep in mind that for the parades passing through Centro and Bixiga after dark, it’s probably best to plan on taking a taxi home. For daytime blocos, it’s a good idea to bring a basic kit that includes sunglasses, sun screen and some bottled water.

Vai Quem Quer Praça Benedito Calixto,

Pinheiros. 8pm.

MAR

SUNDAY

2 Vai Quem Quer Praça Benedito

Calixto, Pinheiros. 8pm.

MAR

MONDAY

3 Bloco dos Esfarrapados Rua

Conselheiro Carrão 466, Bixiga. 14h.

Vai Quem Quer Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros. 8pm.

MAR

TUESDAY

4 Vai Quem Quer Praça Benedito

Calixto, Pinheiros. 8pm.

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés

24 35

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Eating Out Bars & Cafés

Five a day Weekend lunches for families and friends are the new thing at Miya, with special group menus

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Eating Out Hot new openings

Roll up, roll up Coquetéis ou almôndegas? Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it, at Itaim’s new Meatball House

On a bender The Maahor starter blends pork, shrimp and chicken at Tomyam

Back to the here and now, the recently opened Tomyam (Rua José Maria Lisboa 1065, Jardim Paulista, 4329 1002, tomyam.com.br) is a welcome addition to the nearnon-existent São Paulo Southeast Asian dining scene, specialising in Thai and Indonesian cuisine, with touches of French and Indian.

Another Asian newcomer in Jardins is Satay (Rua Padre João Manoel 1249, Jardim Paulista, 3068 0169), serving Chinese food in a slick setting, smack bang next to the swanky Brasserie des Arts, from the same owners. Well-heeled locals slide into the red leather banquettes while behind the bluelit bar, the bartenders shake up oriental-themed libations devised by arguably one of the city’s best mixologists: Marcelo Serrano, of former MyNY cocktail bar reknown. Connoisseurs of Chinese cuisine may be underwhelmed, though, by the menu here.

Imaginative mixology is one of the two draws at the single-subject restaurant Meatball House (Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 190, Itaim Bibi, 3798 6349). The other draw?

Well, the meatballs, we hope, which

are rolled out in a variety of sizes and flavours, including the snackfriendly plate of fifteen mini balls (R$17), and the larger size (with five balls in a portion) – choose from beef, pork, chicken, vegetarian and the house special, with bacon and beef (R$37). To drink, forget

Rogério Voltan/press image

We’ve been waiting for this place to burst onto the scene in a boom of funky beats and edgy lighting for nearly two years. And we’ll keep on waiting, as it still wasn’t open as we went to press. But what could be less cool – or Brazilian – than being right on time?

Rafael Wainberg/press image

New year, new ventures. Which in the country’s culinary capital means plenty of restaurants opening up, rolling out menus hot off the presses, and vying for picky paulistanos’ custom. So if you’ve dispensed with – or had the sense never to embark on – any of January’s rash of fad diets, read on and get stuck into our pick of the most interesting openings.

Topping the chart for its extremely sexy space, including an outdoor terrace, and for the heavyweight fashion-and-nightlife credentials of the team behind it, Chez Oscar (Rua Oscar Freire 1128, Jardim Paulista, 3061 2966, chez.com.br) is one of the coolest new openings. So cool in fact that we couldn’t wait till payday to check it out (see review, right).

Another newcomer with cool credentials is Bossa – a 24-hour bar, restaurant and recording studio, set to open in Jardins, from the DJ and owner of electro mega-club D.Edge (see Nightclubs), Renato Ratier.

Ricardo Bozza/press image

Fom Asian to Italian via some good ol’ Americana, the city’s newest restaurants are doing away with January detoxes, say CM Gorey and Catherine Balston

Mint Meatball House cachaça cocktail

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Food & Drink

Review

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Henrique Peron/press image

Chez Oscar

Stick ’em up Chopsticks at the ready for battered prawns at Satay

Shelf life Italian treats to eat in, or take away, at Casa Europa

Oscar winner The canvas roof rolls back at night in Chez Oscar’s dining space

A Rua Oscar Freire newcomer ranks high on the style stakes

Whether it’s the alluring window displays, or the tell-tale signs of plastic surgery on the faces of the moneyed, aging dames passing by, there’s so much to catch your eye at street level on the upmarket shopping strip Rua Oscar Freire that you may have never looked up and noticed the building at number 1128.

A sculptured stack of container-like, glass-clad modules, it was originally designed by the modish architects at Franco-Brazilian studio Triptyque as a concept store for Levi’s and Calvin Klein Jeans. Following a refit it opened at the end of last year as Chez Oscar, a five-storey café-barrestaurant, with a stunning outdoor dining space on the first floor.

The team behind Chez Oscar already owns a couple of trendy São Paulo spots, namely Bar Secreto (see Nightclub listings) and Chez MIS (see Restaurant listings), and the combination here of a striking building and the group’s hallmark look – draped ropes, naked bulbs and a melting mass of candles – all look set to make this a further sexy spot to complete the trio.

Bars cover the top three floors – head straight to the middle one to join the beautiful people enjoying a drink under the night sky, looking up to the coloured antennae along Avenida Paulista. For diners, however, the experience may be underwhelming. The menu is a mish-mash of comfort foods and salads with just a handful of more interesting, albeit pricier, choices, like the grilled tuna with a lime and ginger sauce (R$69) or the ‘tropical’

Kobe beef (R$170, 400 kg).

At lunchtime, a buffet offers a distinctly unexciting selection of salads and a hot main with rice and beans, for a hefty price tag (R$49).

We went à la carte, starting with a delicious, if small, bruschetta with Serrano ham and roasted tomatoes (R$27). The steak Milanese (R$56), on the other hand, was generously proportioned, and perfectly crunchy, while the prawn risotto (R$64) was let down by the mass of stodgy rice, studded with chunks of mushy melon, accompanying the tender prawns. A dark, Belgian chocolate mousse (R$19) ended the meal on a high. To experience Chez Oscar in all its glory, make yours an evening visit, with dinner as optional.

Catherine Balston Rua Oscar Freire 1128, Jardim Paulista (3081 2966/chezoscar.com. br). Open Noon-1am Mon-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$37-$170; lunch R$49.

catherine balston

Moraes’s other ventures – the ever popular Portuguese eateries Adega Santiago (see Restaurant listings) and its newer sibling Taberna 474 – are anything to go by. Part deli, part restaurant, Casa Europa invites patrons to either stick around and enjoy a meal in situ, or take away the gourmet goodies that fill the shelves for a treat back at home. If you’re sticking around, chef Ivo Lopes, who has previous experience in some of the city’s best Italian restaurants, does rustic Italian in a fittingly decorated wood-and-brick space.

Romulo Fialdini/press image

convention and team your meatballs with a Kinky Mary (R$25), a ginbased take on the classic vodka-andtomato-juice brunch staple, or the New Fashioned (R$27), a bourbon, single malt whisky, maple syrup and Angostura bitters mix served with the tumbler and a hip flash stashed in a bucket of ice.

From unlikely combinations to a more classic approach, Casa Europa (Rua Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 726, Jardim Paulistano, 3063 5577, casaeuropa.com.br) looks set to be a big hit, if the owner Ipe

Top heavy The street-facing café

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How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes.

We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards. means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

NEW

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro VEGETARIAN Nutrisom Dating back

to 1980, this is one of the old guard of vegetarian buffets in downtown São Paulo, and it remains the one to beat.

The simple, somewhat dated décor may not create the best first impression, but the food is always made with an imaginative twist. Start off by grazing on a variety of salads or a bowl of soup, and then hit the hot food counter, which typically features a dozen or so Brazilian dishes that vary each day. Cheesecake and ice-cream round off this high-quality buffet, and it’s a steal at under R$20 midweek, or a bit more on Sundays, though curiously it shuts up shop on Saturdays. A newer, slicker Vila Olímpia branch opened a few years ago, bringing this top veggie lunch option to that area’s hordes of office workers. Viaduto Nove de Julho 160, 1st Floor (3255 4263/ nutrisom.com.br). Open 11am-3.15pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4.30pm Sun. Prices buffet R$19.90 (R$27 Sundays).

Other location Rua Ramos Batista 443, Vila Olímpia (2639 5799).

ECLECTIC Ramona A welcome latenight dining option in downtown’s gourmet vacuum, Ramona has the same cool credentials as its sister establishment, rock club Alberta #3, just two doors down, and draws a media and artsy crowd. The cocktails are sassy (don’t miss the bloody mary, R$29, served with two slices of crispy bacon), and the basement is a speakeasy-style bar, eStonia. A highlight on the concise

menu is the Ramona cheeseburger (R$33), packing a 200g beef patty, fried egg, homemade mayo and a slice of one of Brazil’s few good cheeses, from the Serra da Canastra region of Minas Gerais. The penne rigate (R$36), on the other hand, was forgettable. Groups of up to six can squeeze into one of two cosy blue leather booths, while solo diners may enjoy the street view by one of the large windows upstairs. Avenida São Luís 282, República (3258 6385/ casaramona.com.br). Metrô 3 and 4, República. Open noon-midnight Mon, Tue; noon-2am Wed-Fri; 1pm-2am Sat. Main courses R$21-$55; lunch R$31.

Consolação & Higienópolis ECLECTIC Bravin Facing the grey,

foreboding walls of Consolação cemetery, discreet Bravin, with its dark, wallpapered ceilings and ’50s furniture, is a good spot for a late-night tryst. The food is hearty, with retro touches – we followed an ’80s dinner party classic of gravadlax (R$26) with an excellent neck of lamb, served in tender shreds on a pea risotto (R$49).

The main draw, however, is the wine – not surprisingly, given owner Daniela Bravin’s reputation as one of the city’s most adventurous sommeliers. There’s no wine list, just a selection of around twenty wines, opened each night from an ever-changing wine cellar, with a set

price per glass – R$21 for whites, R$23 for reds – in a measure large enough to be split between two for each course.

Rua Matogrosso 154, Higienópolis (2659 2525). Open noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1.30am Fri; 7pm-1.30am Sat; noon5pm Sun. Main courses R$34-$86; couvert R$7.

ECLECTIC Carlota The chef, Carla Pernambuco, has an enviable creative spirit. In her multicultural kitchen, international cuisine is fused with typical Brazilian gastronomy and delivers surprising results. The amazing sole filet with golden goat’s cheese sauce, fresh palm hearts and mushroom fettuccine is one example of why Carlota wins legions of foodie fans, as is the camarão crocante com risoto de presunto parma – crunchy shrimp with parma ham risotto. The restaurant’s recreation of the classic Brazilian dessert known as Romeo and Juliet elevates a simple dessert to an exquisite guava soufflé in a queijo Catupiry (Brazilian cream cheese) sauce. Rua Sergipe 753, Higienópolis (3661 9465/carlota.com.br). Open 7pmmidnight Mon; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$48-$73; couvert R$11.

FRENCH Ici Bistrô This chic,

classically French restaurant has won considerable acclaim since its 2002 opening. The appetisers includes the duo de lula panée, crisp and wonderfully

spicy squid, although the modest portion is an appetite-whetting trick (long in use by the purveyors of haute-French cuisine). The sesame-seed-encrusted tuna steak is supremely tender and well flavoured, and the desserts deserve equal praise, especially the icy profiteroles and the signature pain perdu – a heavenly slice of caramelised French toast served with a dollop of pear compote bathed in double cream. Rua Pará 36, Higienópolis (3259 6896/icibistro.com. br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Fri; 12.30-4pm, 7.30pm-12.30am Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$43-$113; lunch R$46$56; couvert R$8.90.

BRAZILIAN Jiquitaia Run by a brotherand-sister duo, no-frills Jiquitaia is a laid-back addition to the city’s dining scene, featuring twists on classic Brazilian recipes that are both fresh and intensely flavoured without being showy.

Rua Antonio Carlos 268, Consolação (3262 2366/jiquitaia.com.br). Metrô, 2 Consolação and 4 Paulista. Open noon3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm TueFri; 1-11.30pm Sat. Fixed price R$55; lunch R$35; couvert R$6.

MIDDLE EASTERN Kebabel ‘Beer and

kebabs’ is Kebabel’s tagline, and boy do they deliver on both those promises – as well as delivering to your home, too, if you live in the area. Served in a traditional pitta, the kebabs are skinny but packed full of flavour. Try a falafel

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Food & Drink

Restaurant listings

Superior street eats For pimped up sandwiches, the gourmet food fair Feirinha Gastrônomica is an essential spot for Sunday lunch. Don’t miss this sanduíche de porchetta (R$17), with pork slices, pork scratchings and a herby salsa. Noon-8pm Sundays, Praça Benedito Calixto 85, Pinheiros. Read more online at j.mp/fgastron

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Food & Drink

just three blocks down the road from its original home. Rua Padre Chico 324 (08551 8511/killa.com.br). Open 7.3011.30pm Tue-Thu; 7.30pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$39.

LucasTerribili/press image

Thai Namga Satisfying a craving for

Battery recharge New year, new dishes on the menu at the warehouse-style Italian eatery Mangiare, which, in a bid to keep customers’ bills down, has done away with its corkage charge. Team your favourite vintage with the squid, fried with basil leaves and lemon slices in a buttermilk batter, and served with aioli (R$20). See listings

kebab with vinaigrette, pickles, Arab spices, and tahini (sesame paste) on the side. Meat lovers can opt for lamb, chicken or kofta kebabs. Still hungry?

Munch on fried cauliflower or smoked javali (wild boar) sausage kebabs. To quench your thirst, order an awardwinning Colorado Appia or Indica (chope R$7.50), brewed in Ribeirão Preto.

Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 22, Consolação (3259 1805/kebabel.com.br).

Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 6pm-midnight Mon; noon-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses R$17-$27.

ECLECTIC La Frontera A lesser-known

cousin of the well-loved Argentinian steakhouse, Martín Fierro, La Frontera opened in 2006 but still feels like a local secret, despite being sandwiched between two of the neighbourhood’s busiest roads. The owner hails from Argentina but the menu is inspired by cuisines from all over South America.

The paleta de leitão (suckling pig), cooked in the oven for three hours and topped with a crisp crackling and potato purée, was light, tender and full of flavour. Sommelier Ezequiel Rodrigues has put together an excellent selection of 120 wines, and it’s pure pleasure to hear him describe the options. Rua Coronel José Eusébio 105, Higienópolis (3255 8867/restaurantelafrontera.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Fri; 12.30-5pm, 7.30pm-1am Sat; 12.305.30pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$98; lunch R$45.

INDIAN Madhu In a city as cosmopolitan as São Paulo, it’s a surprise to find so few options for food from the Indian subcontinent. So it’s an even bigger surprise to find a fastfood Indian restaurant that not only serves damn good curry, but serves

it in combos featuring a top-notch array of side dishes. Chapatis come as standard, but there are tough choices to be made: which chutney? Rice, or flat appam rice-bread? Samosa or kofta?

The easy bit is the bill – you can have the lot with change from a R$20 note.

Rua Augusta 1422, Consolação (3262 5535/madhurestaurante.com.br). Open noon-10pm Mon-Wed; noon-11.30pm Thu; noon-midnight Fri; 1pm-1am Sat; 1-10.30pm Sun. Main courses BARGAIN R$12.90-$24.90.

dishes. Mara Salles was inspired by her roots in Pernambuco (a state on the north-east coast) to work mostly with local ingredients and to highlight regional dishes. Salles’s culinary wizardry is best sampled in the pato no tucupi (duck and manioc stew). For dessert, try the cupuaçu ice cream – a mind-blowingly tangy Amazonian fruit. Tordesilhas regulars will miss the restaurant’s excellent-value tasting menu, which was taken off the menu following a change of address in May 2013, to the upmarket Jardins neighbourhood.

Alameda Tietê 489, Jardim Paulista (3107 7444/ o tordesilhas.com).

Vemelh ive a ri le a G Open 5pm-1am impress ce. e th it a Vis Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, g art sp adjoininee Art 7pm-1am Sat; noonS 5pm Sun. Prices main courses R$58-$77.

CONTEMPORARY Sal Gastronomia From the outside, the black façade looks more like the entrance to a deviant dungeon than a fine dining experience.

Venture round the back, and grab a seat in the courtyard or inside where the narrow space would be claustrophobic were it not for the bustle of the kitchen seen behind a glass wall. The gnocchi were excellent, in a rich, tomato and lamb sauce, and the cupim – a cheap cut from the hump of the zebu cow, which can be tough – was served semi-shredded and wholly delicious. This is good eating that is easy on the pocket too, right down to the wine menu with its simple sauvignon blancs. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3151 3085/salgastronomia. com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon3pm, 8-11.30pm Tue-Wed; noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Thu-Fri; noon-midnight Sat. Main courses R$35-$78; lunch R$42; couvert R$10.

IN THE AREA

BRAZILIAN Tordesilhas Fans of Brazilian high gastronomy will not be disappointed by this rare example of a famous chef making truly traditional

Lapa, Perdizes, Vila Leopoldina & Barra Funda PERUVIAN Killa The food at this amiable local eatery is not just Peruvian, but novoandina – ‘new Andean’. Peruvian cuisine is increasingly important and the novoandina concept is to mix pre-Hispanic cooking techniques with other elements like European cooking.

Here at Killa, the emphasis is on Peru’s wonderful signature dish: the raw fish salad, ceviche. And it’s delicious, with lightly-flavoured, delicate flakes of fish gently bathed in citric flavours. Our only criticism? The small portions, which might leave customers with a big appetite still hungry after lunch. Killa recently moved to a new, bigger space

Thai food in São Paulo is no easy task, so when we heard about this progeny of the much-loved takeaway Tele-Thai, we were in there like a shot. The trickling fountains, candles and ambient music might give it the slight air of a spa, but it’s all about the food here, which, while neither wholly authentic nor generously proportioned, is delicious. Thai classics like fragrant green curry, light and crunchy pad Thai and khao soi kai – a mild curry noodle soup – are on the menu alongside more inventive dishes like the succulent pork-filled squid. For a sensory overload, order the miang kham – buildyour-own bundles of Japanese spinach filled with lemon, chillies, coconut and nuts. Round things off with the chef’s dessert, khanom kluay, whose black rice and coconut ice-cream combo is a sensation in both texture and taste. Rua Apiacás 92, Perdizes (2507 1774/namga. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Fri, Sat. Main courses R$23-$39.

Japanese Zendô Head straight for a

seat at the counter, order the combinado do chef (R$80) and prepare to be immersed in the Brazilian-Japanese creations that sushi purists would call sacrilege; others, a damn good contemporary twist. The sashimi here is fabulously fresh. We tried haro hot – shimeji mushrooms wrapped inside crunchy spring-roll batter, followed by the pantanal – salmon uramaki topped with deep fried kale. Be prepared to arrive with an open mind, and leave with a belly swelling to sumo-sized proportions. Rua Desembargador do Vale 438, Perdizes (3554 3433/zendosushi. com.br). Open 7-11pm Tue; noon-3pm; 7-11pm Wed, Thu; noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Friday; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; 1-4pm Sun. Main courses set for one from R$44.90; lunch R$29.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros ECLECTIC AK Vila The ‘AK’ in the name is for the chef Andrea Kaufmann, who ran a Jewish restaurant before setting up AK Vila in 2011. Classic Central European dishes such as goulash are now part of a thoroughly eclectic menu – think Peruvian soup alongside Scottish smoked haddock – with the main focus being on seasonal ingredients and straightforward (though pricey) grills.

The stinco de cordeiro (R$72, braised lamb shank) we had was fall-apart tender, and both the pork ribs starter (R$36) and the roast chicken (R$41) were superbly cooked. Vegetables need to be ordered separately – three dishes should do for two people; and make the smoky aubergine one of your choices. The long, thin space, with a wood-decked terrace at the front, has a striking, industrial-chic design with bare concrete walls, naked lightbulbs and faded grey leather upholstery. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1240, Vila Madalena (3231

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INTERNATIONAL Arturito Intimate dark wood panelling, austere lighting, and stylish seating with cushions and throw pillows distinguish this luxurious member of the São Paulo dining scene.

It’s positively bursting at the weekend, since word got around about the restaurant and its trendy Argentinian chef and co-proprietor, Paola Carosella, and it’s now on the must-do list of every well-to-do paulistano. The wonderfully varied and ever-changing menu includes some uncommon dishes for Brazil, such as leg of lamb, ceviche (raw fish marinated in citrus juices). The menu also features outstanding classics: freshly made pasta, prime beef (try the exquisite ojo de bife) and pork as well as an extensive wine list. Rua Artur Azevedo 542, Pinheiros (3063 4951/ arturito.com.br). Open 7pm-11.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 12.30-4pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 12.304pm Sun. Main courses R$24-$86; lunch R$44; couvert R$6.50.

ECLECTIC Brado Young, buzzy and

inviting, Brado welcomes you in, sits you down, surprises you with its unconventional menu, gets you a little giddy with decent Malbec for under R$50 a bottle, and sends you on your way, happy, well-fed and not feeling out of pocket. In short, it’s our kind of place. The colourful, open-plan space spans the ground floor and yard of a 1950s white-washed brick house, and the menu is eclectic, to say the least.

Fish korma sits alongside the likes of chimichurri steak and wok-fried chicken, while foams feature here and there without being pretentious – more of a playful approach to comfort food than a beginner’s attempt at contemporary cuisine. Leave room for dessert – we loved the chocolate brownie with intense coffee ice cream and a sour squirt of passion fruit foam (R$16). Rua Joaquim Antunes 381, Pinheiros (3061 9293/bradorestaurante. com.br). Open noon-4pm, 8pmmidnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$22$45; lunch R$22-35; couvert R$6.

ECLECTIC Chou Clearly designed with romance in mind, Chou is an atmospheric spot for dinner, whether you sit in the vintage-Provençal-style interior or out in the covered backyard, where fairy lights dangle between the trees. The speciality here is succulent meat and fish, cooked on a charcoal grill tucked away at the back of the house, which means the smokiness lingers only on the food, rather than the hair. The Mediterranean-style side dishes are creative and packed with fresh herbs, like the mint risoni with pecans (R$14).

The service can be inattentive, so console yourself while you wait with one of the brilliantly imaginative drinks. All in all, a delightful choice for dinner, though expect to pay upwards of R$150 per head for three courses and a drink. Rua Mateus Grou 345, Pinheiros (3083 6998/chou. com.br). Open 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; 8pm-1am Fri, Sat. Main courses R$36$76; couvert R$9.50.

caipirinhas – think green fig and lime, or banana with ginger and rum – are unmissable. The same goes for the tapioca pudim (R$10), a beautifully presented dessert topped with baba de moça (a creamy egg yolk and coconut sweet) and a solitary purple pitanga berry. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (4305 7727). Open noonmidnight Tue-Sat; 1pm-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$39.

BRAZILIAN Consulado Mineiro Step into this creaky yellow house and you may feel like a João Guimarães Rosa character (Brazil’s most famous modernist novelist was from the state of Minas Gerais). The homey atmosphere, wooden tables and paintings of the Minas countryside evoke well-preserved colonial towns, like Ouro Preto. As is the custom in Minas, all the plates are intended for two, but really, a third person could easily partake in this hearty, reasonably-priced meal. Try the tutu especial or the tutu à Mineira, the most famous dishes from this huge central state. The former comes with beans, sausage and eggs, pork cutlets and mandioca (manioc) with banana, a couve salad (chopped and steamed kale, with garlic and butter), and rice.

If you’re in the mood for home cooking as opposed to a refined meal, this is the place. Praça Benedito Calixto 74, Pinheiros (3088 6055/3064 3882/ consuladomineiro.com.br). Open 11.45am-midnight Tue-Sat; 11.45am11pm Sun. Main courses R$33-$85 (for two); lunch R$24.

VEGETARIAN Goshala Rustic heavy woods, from the front door to the tables and chairs inside, exude an understated quality from the get go at this recently opened veggie spot. An internal courtyard affords more seating and looks like a promising alfresco dining spot away from the noisy street. The menu is for the most part Brazilian, with an Indian twist – aromatic and gently spicy dishes sit alongside contemporary Brazilian fare. We started with cheese and palm-fruit samosas and a baked Camembert, served with relish and a chapati. For mains, the tangy, aromatic paneer curry was a highlight.

Look out, too, for the dish of the day (R$22 or R$26 including dessert), chalked up on the blackboard and published on the website each day. Rua dos Pinheiros 267, Pinheiros (3063 0367/goshala.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7-10pm Thu-Sat. Main courses R$22-$23; lunch R$22$26.

CHILEAN El Guatón You may be greeted and seated here by a portly moustachioed man with specs: that will be Señor Guatón. He’s from Chile, and has been running the front of house of this husband-and-wife neighbourhood restaurant for nearly 15 years. His wife, Dona Elba, keeps regulars happy with deliciously simple homemade Chilean food: ceviche (raw white fish with lime, onion and coriander), baked empanadas, and the comforting pastel de choclos – a chicken pie topped with a gratinated corn puree – are our favourites. Look out when Señor Guatón, with a twinkle in his eye, offers you one of his fiery homemade chilli oils. Rua Artur de Azevedo 906, Pinheiros (3085 9466/ elguaton.com). Open noon-3pm, 5pm1am Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$75; lunch R$13.50-$25.

BRAZILIAN Feijoada da Lana Most paulistanos have a favourite place to eat feijoada – the heavy stew of smoked and sun-dried meats that’s brewed up in cauldrons with black beans and served with rice, kale, orange slices and farofa (toasted manioc flour). Lana, a journalist by trade, offers her hugely popular version inside a small but charming Vila Madalena house, where the rich stew might not be as elaborate as some of the more expensive varieties, but where smiling service and hearty goodness are guaranteed. Settle in for a long Saturday afternoon session, and wallow in a delightful food-induced paralysis. Rua Aspicuelta 421, Vila Madalena (3814 9191). Open noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-5:30pm Sat, Sun. Lunch midweek feijoada R$30; weekend feijoada and unlimited caipirinhas R$55.

ECLECTIC Feed Food The leafy backyard restaurant of hip boutiquecum-gallery Cartel 011, Feed Food serves up dishes as eclectic as the venue. The chef doesn’t always hit the mark, as we discovered with a somewhat bland pumpkin risotto (R$27). A better choice were the noodles crunch com frango ao curry (R$27) – a chicken curry topped with noodles, shaved carrot, and toasted almonds. And the wonderfully creative

Critics’ choice Outdoor dining

JAPANESE Hideki Don’t let its rather modest exterior, or its location on a busy party street, put you off: inside Hideki, the focus is on the freshest of fresh fish, served in a convivial, family-friendly and decidedly non-trendy atmosphere.

The sashimi and sushi are a cut above, albeit with prices to match, and the tempura is light, crispy perfection. The emphasis here is on quality rather than quantity, though the lunchtime buffet is a relatively economical way to sample Hideki’s delights. To drink go for saké, which is served in a masu – a square cup – with the chilled liquid spilling out over the sides. It’s all in the name of good luck, apparently. Rua dos Pinheiros 70, Pinheiros (3086 0685/hidekisushi.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sat, Sun. Fixed price R$75-$85. Other locations Rua dos Imarés 542, Moema (5049 3224); Rua Treze de Maio 1050, Bela Vista (3283 1833).

FRENCH L’Aperô Well away from the Vila Madalena hustle and bustle, L’Aperô is a great little spot for dinner under the stars. Sit outside at one of a scattering of tables, covered in redand-white checkered tablecloths, and peruse the menu, which you’ll find unceremoniously glued to the back of a wine bottle. The food is nothing to write home about, but the laid-back charm and modest prices make this an ideal neighbourhood bolt-hole. Our tip? Avoid the gritty moules and go for one of the salads, served in large bowls with a satisfying ratio of lettuce to tasty bits, such as crispy sautéed potatoes or melted goat’s cheese on croutons. Rua Mourato Coelho 1343, Vila Madalena (3814 2445/lapero.com.br). Open 7pm1am Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$24-$36; couvert R$10. BARGAIN BRAZILIAN Las Chicas Gourmet

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Food & Drink

4496/akvila.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight TueThu; noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 12.304.30pm Sun. Main courses R$33-$84; lunch R$36.

AK Vila A falafel stall makes for a welcome new addition to this hip restaurant’s front terrace.

Cheap eats in the sunshine?

Don’t mind if we do.

Bar des Arts Buffet lunches don’t get more glamorous than at Bar des Arts, where you eat outside in the former mansion’s pictureperfect garden.

Feed Food The open-air restaurant of hip boutique-cum-gallery Cartel 011 features a menu as eclectic as the venue itself. See the full list at j.mp/eatalfre.

Garage Chefs Carla Pernambuco and Carolina Brandão, of restaurant Carlota fame, have turned their epicurean expertise to this smaller, more informal venture in Pinheiros. Las Chicas is an allday eaterie in a converted garage, whose small space has been filled with bright colours and cutesy, feminine touches. Go for breakfast, lunch, a light evening bite or just a post-shopping-spree coffee (it’s a five-minute walk from the Rua Oscar Freire boutiques). The lunch buffet may be pricey, but the quality is excellent, with interesting salads and hot dishes such as roast beef and sweet potato purée with orange. Indulge a sweet tooth with a capuccino with doce de leite or one of the chocolate desserts, served in adorable, tiny tin mugs. Rua Oscar Freire 1607, Pinheiros (3063 0533/ laschicas.net.br). Metrô 2, Clínicas.

Open 9am-11pm Mon-Sat; 9am-6pm Sun. Main courses R$37-$48; lunch R$45-$55.

ECLECTIC Miya The talented young

chef Flávio Miyamura cut his teeth at some of the city’s top contemporary restaurants before setting up Miya in 2012, in a two-storey house in Pinheiros. The small eatery has an unassuming charm, with a long, brown leather banquette lining one of the exposed brick walls, while upstairs, an intimate cluster of tables leads through to the waiting area-cum-bar,

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set on an open-air terrace. As for the from the menu. Teething troubles, we food, the menu is compact and eclectic, hope. Rua Wisard 88, Vila Madalena drawing inspiration from throughout (3032 4295). Open 6pm-midnight WedMiyamura’s career. Don’t miss the foie Fri, noon-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. gras terrine starter (R$48). For mains, Main courses R$25-$43. the pork with miso, Japanese chard and ITALIAN Spadaccino The sight of a sesame sauce (R$48) is a good choice.

Spadaccino – a traditional Italian family Rice dishes – creamy rice with duck restaurant with a yard out front (R$51), and a dark beer risotto with – in the midst of the Vila caramelised onions (R$42) Madalena night-time chaos – are delicately sized, and is like coming across the served on striking, curvedRed Cross in the midst rim plates. Rua Fradique of battle. It’s the sort of Coutinho 47, Pinheiros quid s y p s ri place where the sight of (3259 8760/restaurantemiya.

The c pura. m te three generations of the com.br). Open noon-3pm, 4 3 $ R same family eating together 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 1-4pm, is the rule, rather than the 8pm-12.30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. exception, and where they Main courses R$25-$46; lunch know how to do traditional Italian food R$45 (Tue-Fri); couvert R$5-$12. brilliantly. The prawn risotto is tasty and ITALIAN Nello’s Hoping for a classy has half a dozen big meaty prawns in it; night out? Haute cuisine? Refined the penne with mushrooms is spot on, surroundings? Look elsewhere. Nello’s and the crème brûlée is deliciously rich, is comfort-central: hearty, old-school and green – yes, green – with a perfectly Italian dishes in an authentic setting crunchy crust on top. Rua Mourato which will warm the cockles of your Coelho 1267, Vila Madalena (3032 8605 heart for a minimal outlay. The lasagne /spadaccino.com.br). Open noon-3pm, is especially consoling, with lashings of 7-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am cheesy goodness, while the spaghetti Fri; 10am-1am Sat; noon-11.30pm Sun. bolognese is the gastronomic equivalent Main courses R$30-$53; lunch R$32of your favourite old pyjamas. Desserts $42; couvert R$8. are not a strong point, however: the PERUVIAN Suri Ceviche takes centre wobbly tiramisu is best avoided. stage at this contemporary Pinheiros Look out for photos of the recently restaurant, with ten different varieties on deceased proprietor, Nello, in his former the menu. But this isn’t ordinary ceviche. incarnation as an Italian silver screen Here, it’s been given a thoroughly heart throb. Rua Antonio Bicudo 97, modern makeover, with varying degrees Pinheiros (3082 4365/nellos.com.br). of success. The clasico with corvina Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue(white fish), onion, lime and coriander is Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noona safe bet. The chifa, with prawn, squid 4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm, 7-11pm and corvina is tender and tasty. But the Sun. Main courses R$26-$45; lunch tierra y mar, with tuna, sour cream and R$16-$28. Other locations Rua Guaipá 880, Vila Leopoldina (4304 bacon, is an unusual and borderline 2666). BARGAIN unpleasant combo. The portions are generous, so going with a group means SEAFOOD Peixaria Bar e Venda more options to try, whilst solo diners Bringing a bit of beach culture to the can perch at the bar and watch the heart of the city, Peixaria’s fishmongerchefs in action. Rua Mateus Grou 488, meets-restaurant formula comes Pinheiros (3034 1763/suri.com.br). complete with deck-chairs, cheerful Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-5pm, orange buoys and a giant plastic fish, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main suspended from the ceiling like a prop courses R$26-$65; couvert R$10. left over from the set of Jaws. The menu NORTH AFRICAN Tanger With exposed is expansive, covering Brazilian and brickwork, colourful tiling and a palette foreign seafood favourites. The grilled of deep, earthy reds and yellows, fish and seafood is cooked – albeit not Tanger is more a treat for the eyes than always long enough – on a coal-fired the taste-buds. This upscale Moroccan barbecue in an upturned canoe: we restaurant, recently relocated to an tried the meca (R$32), a meaty, tasty increasingly restaurant-packed part of fillet of the large river fish, served Vila Madalena, serves an assortment of with black-eyed peas, tomato salsa and mezzes, tagines and couscous dishes. farofa (toasted manioc flour). Don’t The Royal Couscous, a signature dish miss the caipirinhas (R$14), which come of succulent lamb, is particularly good, ready shaken in glass jars, or the coffee though the set lunch menu can be more (R$5.50) – done the old fashioned way, miss than hit. The busiest nights are at dripped through individual coffee filters the weekend and on Wednesdays, when into tin mugs. Rua Inácio Pereira da there’s a live belly dance performance.

Rocha 112, Vila Madalena (2589 3963).

Rua Harmonia 359, Vila Madalena Open 6pm-1am Tue-Fri; noon-1am (3037 7223/restaurantetanger.com.

Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight R$24.90-$95.

Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; CONTEMPORARY Rothko Artist Diego noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main Belda has turned his creative hand courses R$21-$45; lunch R$19.50to cuisine at his restaurant Rothko, $29.50; couvert R$7.50. which opened in early 2011. Drawing CHINESE Ton Hoi Go west-side, over the inspiration from a number of cuisines, Marginal Pinheiros to Ton Hoi, whose each dish is a beautiful composition of walls are plastered with gastronomy flavours and vibrant colours. Order a awards for its self-proclaimed ‘authentic selection of small dishes – bocadilhos Chinese cuisine’. Eat starters of fried – or go for a less creative but equally Won Ton with beers at the balcão tasty main course. The downsides? Slow overlooking the glass-fronted kitchen. service, and a fair few items missing

Foto: Johnny Mazzilli

GO FOR

hts g i l e d n Italiaazil in Br

Rua Cônego Eugênio Leite, 523 Pinheiros São Paulo SP T 11 3088 4920 | 11 3064 4094

www.percussi.com.br

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Mauro Holanda/press image

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avocado, pumpkin and the delicious hot sauce and onion vinaigrette into a brilliant, self-made recreation of the classic Bahian sandwich. For a main course, try the pescado amarelo grelhado com crosta de baru (grilled grey snapper with a crust of Brazilian baru nut), or the grilled pirarucu – the largest freshwater fish in the world.

Finish off with a tasting of the plum or banana cachaça – the sugar-cane tipple here reaches the level of a fine cognac.

Reservations are recommended. Rua Azevedo de Amaral 70, Jardim Paulista (3086 3565/brasilagosto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Thu; noon5pm, 7pm-1am Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$49-$99; lunch R$49$69; couvert R$14-$16.

contrasts of colours and textures. If you’re prone to passing out at the sight of large bills, try the lunchtime executive menu, which gives a beautifully presented spin on home-made Brazilian food, using crunchy, toasted manioc farofa with beans, rice and chicken or John Dory. It sounds simple, but Atala takes it to a different level, earning the restaurant the number six ranking in the San Pellegrino world’s 50 best restaurants award, in 2013. Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardim Paulista (3088 0761/domrestaurante.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. Prices tasting menu R$242-$495 (dinner only); lunch R$82-$171; couvert R$38 (lunch only).

BRAZILIAN Capim Santo Morena Leite’s Jungle Book restaurant features two gardens. The front bar patio is reminiscent of Bahian beaches, with wooden benches and throw pillows; and the stunning back garden is fit for Amazonian royalty (to sit here, reservations are a must). For an appetiser, go for a pastelzinho (a small fried pastry) or duck rolls with tangerine sauce. The couvert comes with crackers and vatapá (fish paste with dried shrimp and dendê oil). Try the shrimp with pupunha (palm fruit) served in a green coconut shell. Last but not least, the waiters are attentive, warm, and entirely tuned in to the needs of the diners – they round out a perfectly divine dining experience. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 471, Jardim Paulista (3068 8486/capimsanto.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 12.304.30pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$43-$79; lunch R$53-$77; couvert R$16.50.

ITALIAN Fasano Head right through the elegant lobby of the Fasano hotel to the eponymous restaurant – a grand atrium awash with black marble and dark wood in an unmistakeable, classic 1930s style. The best dishes, which don’t come cheap, include the silky, perfumed raviolini d’Anitra al profumo d’arancia (R$99) – pasta filled with duck meat and orange sauce, an inspired deconstruction influenced by the classic French canard à l’orange – and the costoletta di vitello alla Milanese (veal Milanese, R$119), a classic dish that’s been on the menu here since the distant ’90s, when the Italian chef Luciano Boseggia was at the helm..

Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, Jardim Paulista (3062 4000/fasano.com.br). Open 7pm1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$99$119; couvert R$29.

The ambience is bright and the service exemplary at Ton Hoi, which, thankfully, has never tried to ‘cash in’ on its success. The emphasis is on quality not quantity, and as such, you can’t order takeaway on the busy weekends, and the restaurant itself only opens from Wednesday through Saturday. Try the crab (siri), which comes with five whole tasty crustaceans piled on a plate, and beef bifon – rice noodles. To order the signature dish of Peking duck – which feeds 4 people – you need to order with 24 hours notice. Avenida Professor Francisco Morato 1484, Butantã (3721 3268/tonhoi.com.br). Open 7.30-10pm Wed; noon-2.30pm, 7.30-10pm ThuSat; noon-2.30pm Sun. Main courses R$28-R$75 (for two).

blocks south when he opened Aizomê in 2007. The two-storey restaurant, in an old house in Jardins (look for the large ‘39’ on the wall as there’s no sign) serves a mix of sushi, sashimi and hot Japanese dishes. Koike is best known for rolling out ‘East meets West’ fusion sushi, adapted with Brazilian ingredients. The sushi may not match the reputation of chefs like Jun Sakamoto, but the all-round Japanese food experience – best sampled in the tasting menu (R$165 for five dishes; R$190 for six dishes – is one of the best in town. Alameda Fernão Cardim 39, Jardim Paulista (3251 5157/aizome.com. br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open noon2.30pm; 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; 6.30-11pm Sat. Prices small dishes R$18-$47; tasting menu R$165-$190; lunch R$47$120.

BRAZILIAN Dalva e Dito When in Brazil, do as the Brazilians do with a daily dose of rice and beans. A taste of traditional Brazilian cooking at Dalva e Dito may just be the most expensive rice and beans you can eat in São Paulo, but many would argue that it’s worth the cost. Chef Alex Atala, whose culinary prowess has gone global, has plucked the best of regional dishes from across the country at this sister restaurant to D.O.M. Unusual local ingredients from the Amazon to the cerrado create some really unique tastes such as the surubim, a fresh water fish served with a lemongrass sauce and jambu – a lip-tingling green herb. Choose from two types of moqueca – capixaba or the spicier baiana. To complete the experience, sit by the big kitchen window to watch the chefs at work.

Rua Padre João Manuel 1115, Jardim Paulista (3068 4444/dalvaedito.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon- 3pm, 7pm-3am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$48$110; lunch R$66; couvert R$17-$25.

Jardins

BRAZILIAN Brasil a Gosto Ready for a taste of the Amazon? Chef Ana Luiza Trajano floats the finest ingredients of the jungle river to your table. Start your adventure by ordering the lovely strawberry and caju caipirinha, artfully decorated with the head of the caju fruit (the unfamiliar, inedible cover of the cashew nut). The mini acarajé appetiser is a treat in which you assemble shrimp,

BRAZILIAN D.O.M. D.O.M. is the fiefdom of tattooed celebrity chef Alex Atala, who absorbs molecular gastronomy tendencies and gives them a very Brazilian twist. The food is balanced and harmonious, particularly in the tasting menus, and the vegetarian version is served with carefully selected juices and fruit essences to provide

Molluscular cuisine Kick off a weekend lunch at Felix Bistrot – a tranquil, Franco-Brazilian restaurant beyond the city suburbs – with the ‘Huîtres Chaudes à la Nantaise’, a half dozen oysters served au gratin (R$38). See listings.

JAPANESE Aizomê If you can judge a

place by its clientele, then chef Shinya Koike was clearly doing something right when he ran A1 – a small izakaya (Japanese bar with hot food) and longrunning favourite with the Japanese suits at the nearby Bank of Tokyo, on Avenida Paulista. Koike relocated a few

STEAKHOUSE A Figueira Rubaiyat

A huge 130-year-old fig tree dominates the dining area of A Figueira Rubaiyat, lending it an intimate, romantic air. Just a block away from Rua Oscar Freire, this is one of the São Paulo restaurants that is both architecturally significant and gastronomically excellent, famed for serving some of the best beef in the city and for catering to paulistano power couples and the financial elite.The appetiser of carpaccio di funghi in truffle oil is a must, as are the pães de queijo (cheese buns). A main course mainstay is the sumptuous picanha sumus – premium top sirloin. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (3087 1399/ rubaiyat.com.br). Open noon-12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noonmidnight Sun. Main courses R$78$243; lunch R$65 (Mon-Thu); couvert R$26.

BRAZILIAN Maní Tucked away on a classy, quiet street in Jardins, Maní manages to be contemporary and sophisticated and yet artfully unpretentious. Whether you choose a table inside or out, you’re assured of an excellent meal amid the natural, earthy ambience of one of São Paulo’s most popular and innovative restaurants.

The modern cuisine is served here with flair, and chefs Daniel Redondo and Helena Rizzo deserve all the praise they’ve received for their creative, wideranging menu. Try their award-winning fish entrée served with tucupi and bananas; or the roast beef in a lapsang souchong crust. Reservations strongly recommended. Rua Joaquim Antunes 210, Jardim Paulistano (3062 7458/ manimanioca.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm,

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MEXICAN Obá There is a serious lack

of decent Mexican food in São Paulo – no doubt because of the serious lack of Mexicans. Restaurateur Hugo Delgado solves both problems: he’s a living, breathing chilango from Mexico City and, though sometimes hampered by inaccessibility to certain ingredients, he does a fabulous job on the portion of Obá’s menu that’s dedicated to his homeland – the carnitas (braised pork tacos), refried beans, guacamole and margaritas. The kitchen also sends out an array of Thai, Italian and Brazilian dishes to the convivial tables in this colourfully converted Jardins home; but though pretty much everything is good here, with such a gap in the city for truly good Mexican, it only leaves us wondering ¿por qué? Rua Melo Alves 205, Jardim Paulista (3086 4774/ obarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-12.30am Fri; 1-4.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$39.90-$67; lunch R$21.90.

FRENCH Paris 6 The ‘6’ in the name is for the Parisian 6th arrondissement, encompassing Saint-Germain-des-Prés, and the ornate decoration and low-lit interior of Paris 6 is a conspicuous replica of that trés chic neighbourhood.

But Brazilian touches have snuck their raisins, prunes, peppers, mozzarella and way in here, too, from the big-screen TV cashew nuts. On our Thursday night showing futebol to the minor celebrities visit, we were among just a handful whose names adorn some of the dishes of diners. Perhaps paulistanos know on the menu. The food seems better where to get pizza that’s just as good, for some days than it does others, though less, elsewhere. Either way, roll up your the steak frites and the house red are sleeves – it’s faithful to the original, so reliably good, and the almond trout – you won’t find any cutlery here – and dig truite aux amandes – with mash is a in. Rua Doutor Mario Ferraz 351, Itaim buttery delight. The real draw here is Bibi (3079 3599/ataldapizza.com.br). that it stays open (and busy) 24 hours Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 7pma day. And the clientele?

1am Sat; 6pm-midnight Sun. Large Beautiful enough, for pizza R$75. the most part, to be ITALIAN Attimo Set in a 1950s halfway to making Modernist house, this newish their way onto the to ota restaurant (winner of Wallpaper* menu themselves. sweet-pwith e h T magazine’s prestigious Best New Rua Haddock occhis rs. n g Restaurant award in 2012) retains Lobo 1240, Jardim pigs’ ea many of the building’s original Paulista (3085 1595/ R$56 features, with a contemporary bar, paris6.com.br). Open decked out in swathes of stainless steel, 24 hours daily. Main tacked onto the side. Just as interesting courses R$36-$79; lunch R$39-$49; as the design is the cuisine – a fusion couvert R$12. dubbed ‘Italo-caipira’, blending Italian cooking with that of the ‘hick’ cooking of rural, inland São Paulo, where the Itaim Bibi chef, Jefferson Rueda, grew up. To finish, & Vila Olímpia don’t miss the Romeo and Juliet pavê ITALIAN A Tal da Pizza It started down (R$28) – a flamboyant remix of a simple a dirt track – an out-of-town, family-run Brazilian cheese-and-guava dessert, pizzeria with no cutlery, no waiters, and served here with a Catipury cheese a cult following among SP’s elite. A Tal cream and six textures of guava. Rua da Pizza’s city progeny is an altogether Diogo Jácome 341, Vila Nova Conceição different setup, and its Louis XV-style (5054 9999/attimorestaurante.com.br). chairs and velvet sofas are a far cry Open noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Monfrom country simplicity. The pizza is Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noongood, including adventurous combos 5pm Sun. Main courses R$46-$101; like the Scaramouche, with aubergine, lunch R$49; couvert R$16.

GO FOR

STEAKHOUSE Barbacoa Priced on a par with Fogo de Chão, the city’s other top rodízio (all-you-can-eat) meat-athon, Barbacoa isn’t cheap, but its range and quality of both cuts and creatures, including fish and wild boar, is outstanding. While many churrascarias have all the ambience of an airport lounge, the gentlemen’s club-esque atmosphere here, with an abundance of dark wood and leather armchairs, adds to the sense of self-indulgence, and the bar is a cosy spot for a pre-dinner caipirinha. Expect a feast of seriously good flesh; elasticated waistbands recommended. Rua Doutor Renato Paes de Barros 65, Itaim Bibi (3168 5522/ barbacoa.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; noon-5pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-6pm, 7pm-10.30pm Sun. Fixed price R$98.50. Other locations D&D Shopping, Avenida das Nações Unidas 12555, Brooklin (3043 9244); Morumbi Shopping, Avenida Roque Petroni Jr. 1089, Morumbi (5181 6898).

Food & Drink

8.30pm-12.30am Fri; 1-4pm, 8.30pm12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$53-$72; lunch R$39-44; couvert R$16-$19.

FRENCH/ITALIAN Bar des Arts It’s a feast for all the senses here, from the postcard perfection of this old mansion with its manicured garden and the gentle gurgle of water in the marble fountain to the delectable food. Go for lunch on a sunny day, when you can choose between the excellent lunch buffet and à la carte options, or at night when the candlelit setting makes for a magical date. The menu features mostly French

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and Italian cuisine, with the odd touch of Brazilian. If you’re just stopping by for a drink, the appetiser menu is well worth a look too. Rua Pedro Humberto 9, Itaim Bibi (3074 6363/bardesarts. com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$88; lunch R$72-$110; couvert R$8.

VEGETARIAN Cachoeira Tropical

Nostalgic for a college dining experience? This self-service restaurant offers great, simple, vegetarian food at a set price in a cafeteria-style environment.

Sample all you want, choosing between a variety of salads, hot dishes and desserts, for less than R$20 a sitting, or go for the three-course option. The other two branches serve fish and chicken dishes. Rua João Cachoeira 275, Itaim Bibi (3167 5211/cachoeiratropical.com. br). Open 11am-3pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$18-$20. Other location Avenida São Gabriel 300 (3884 8868), Rua Gaivota 1330, Moema (5542 9561). BARGAIN

recommends its beefsteak florentine, the meat can be a bit chewy. Lunch reservations are not accepted, so come early, around 12.30pm at the latest, to get a seat. Rua Manoel Guedes 93, Itaim Bibi (3078 8092/duecuochi.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$78; lunch Other R$57; couvert R$13.50. location Shopping Cidade Jardim, Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, 3rd floor (3758 2731).

JAPANESE Kinoshita Improvisation is the key at this Japanese sensation.

Kinoshita practises a concept called Kappo cuisine: immaculately presented, unique creations prepared spontaneously by master sushi chef Tsuyoshi Murakami and his team.

After a hearty welcome, the maître d’ directs you to menu gems such as mini Nametaki mushrooms caramelised h c lun in lemon and prix fixe iday e h T ITALIAN Due Cuochi Shoyu conserve, nday to Fr o M Cucina Positively buzzing delicately R$51 with energy, this Itaim served in a Bibi mainstay is arguably hollowed lime. the finest Italian restaurant in Innovations such town. The space is lined with dozens as scallops and cod of windows, and is popular with both roe served in a lime and orange juice, families and business people. From the downed in a martini glass, are joys to a la carte menu choices, try the tagliolini sample – with the accompanying steep ao sugo with shrimp – all the pastas are price, of course. Rua Jacques Félix home-made. While the restaurant highly 405, Vila Nova Conceição (3849 6940/

GO FOR

restaurantekinoshita.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$30-$75; lunch R$49-$68; couvert R$8.

PERUVIAN La Mar Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently.

Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu. Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce.

The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth. Rua Tabapuã 1410, Itaim Bibi (3073 1213/ lamarcebicheria.com). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$60; lunch R$42.

ECLECTIC Le Bou The name, the

awning and the net curtains in the window have all the hallmarks of a French bistro. It’s hard to pass by Le Bou in the evening without being seduced by the soft homely glow emanating from within. Find a spot in the intimate room upstairs for a low-key dinner or slide in to the long bench lining the peachycoloured walls downstairs, where a view of the kitchen gives a window on the action. Mid-week lunch time is buzzing when a local professsional crowd come for les plats du jour – a distinctly un-French menu of the day featuring dishes such as polenta or corn soup and a hearty main – Tarte Goiás – a dense chicken, olive and egg pastry-topped pie served with salad. The evening menu features French dishes such as cassoulet and steak poivre. Rua Bandeira Paulista 387, Itaim Bibi (3078 6704/lebou.com. br) Open noon-4pm Mon-Fri; noon5pm Sat; 7pm-midnight Tue-Sat, Main courses R$28-$72; lunch R$22-$42.

ECLECTIC Tiger The stripes on this tiger belong to two distinct cultures and three different chefs: one prepares Thai dishes, while two experts, one on hot and one on cold Japanese cuisine, complete the culinary triumvirate. The result? A best-of-both-worlds dining experience. The à la carte menu offers traditional dishes like pad thai, at R$70, as well as a variety of sushi, maki and tempura. The restaurant recently started serving alcohol for the first time; and the décor is a hit, with wooden furniture and sparkling white walls that reflect Tiger’s adherence to the principles of simplicity and good taste. Rua Jacques Félix 694, Vila Nova Conceição (3045 2200/tigerrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$35-$80; tasting menu R$65-$110; lunch R$ 45; couvert R$4.

ITALIAN Tre Bicchieri If cooking were a Shakespeare play, fish would be its Hamlet. Done right, the most difficult

of the Bard’s works will slay audiences.

Done wrong, and it can lapse into pomp and absurdity. Tre Bicchieri, which opened in June, serves a delicious robalo – a rich, flaky sea bass – in a light crust with perfectly crisped vegetables. For dessert, a Tre Brûlée: three pots of crème brûlée in vanilla, pistachio and orange flavours. The orange was just a touch too sweet; the pistachio crème had just the right nutty tang, and the vanilla pud was creamy perfection – emblematic of a restaurant that doesn’t need to twist food into contortions to draw a crowd; that’s swanky without being ostentatious; and that does an excellent Hamlet without unnecessary drama. Rua General Mena Barreto 765, Itaim Bibi (3885 4004/ trebicchieri.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Thu; noon-4.30pm, 7pm1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$55-$88; couvert R$10.

Other locations Shopping JK Iguatemi, Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, Vila Olímpia..

STEAKHOUSE Varanda Grill This

steakhouse took years to earn the almost unanimous approval it enjoys todays among the city’s restaurant critics. On Time Out São Paulo’s early visits, the service was affable but standards in the kitchen were careless, with steak served dry on two occasions. We finally reached red-meat nirvana, however, at Varanda’s new sibling inside the recently opened luxury shopping mall – JK Iguatemi. The deliciously juicy steak and impeccably timed service were worthy of a champion. Rua General Mena Barreto 793, Jardins (3887 8870/varandagrill. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm MonThu; noon-3.30pm, 7-11pm Fri; noon6pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$64.50-$86.50; lunch R$87.50; couvert R$20.90. Other locations Shopping JK Iguatemi, Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, Vila Olímpia.

Ibirapuera & Moema BARBECUE Costelaria Moema It’s

all about ribs at this barbecue joint and the secret to its success lies in the engineering marvel tucked away in its kitchen. The tall ovens are specially designed to roast an entire side of beef ribs for forty hours at a low temperature.

Gratification comes quicker, however: the ribs are sliced up and served still smoking, in eight different cuts, including the spaguetinho and matambre.

The simple but sizeable sides include fried polenta, fried plantain, rice, beans and salad. Avenida dos Imarés 758, Moema (5096 3213/costelariamoema. com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm Mon, Tue; 11.30am-4pm, 6-11pm Wed; 11.30am-11pm Thu-Sat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Fixed price R$55.90 (Mon-Fri); R$75.90 Sat-Sun.

BUFFET Prêt no MAM Hobnob with

designers, journalists, artists and fashionistas dressed to kill at this stunning architectural gem with a fantastic (if pricey) lunch buffet, set inside the small Museu de Arte Moderna in Parque do Ibirapuera. The bright and lovely modern dining room is half-moon shaped, with glass walls that afford fantastic views of the sculpture garden designed by Roberto Burle Marx. On any

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Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana VEGETARIAN Alfredo Despite being

just a skip and a hop from Avenida Paulista, this vegetarian lunch spot has been mostly overlooked by the lunchtime crowds – although not by Captain Sensible of the Damned, who reviewed the place for us on his visit in April 2012. The new branch of the Alfredo that has been delighting veggies for over sixty years downtown is reassuringly unchanged: pay by weight for your pick of delicious salads and hot dishes, or go fixed price for all you can eat. Happily, Alfredo do not renounce flavour along with flesh: they make the most of beans, quinoa, pasta and rice in their hot dishes and offer a selection of highly quaffable hot drinks for your post-prandial reverie, including ginger tea and dark, strong ‘coffee’ made from roasted corn. Alameda Ribeirão Preto 160, Bela Vista (3251 4070).

Open 11am-3pm. Prices R$31.90 per kilo; buffet R$21.90. Other location Largo do Café 14, 2nd floor, Sé, (3104 9970).

JAPANESE Aska The sun has not yet set on one of the few remaining, original Japanese ramen houses in Brazil, but get here quickly before it does. Lamen Aska is no slick Momofuku or Wagamama, but rather a tiny restaurant in the heart of little Japan, and an authentically retro place in which to spend your lunchtime.

Here you can order from 12 varieties of the ramen dish for around R$12 each, with speciality pork and vegetable gyozas at R$8. It’s popular, and there are often queues, but it’s worth the wait – if only to be transported to a time at the turn of the century, when recent immigrants to the city crowded hundreds of such ramen houses. Rua Galvão Bueno 466, Liberdade (3277 9682). Metrô 1 Liberdade. Open 11am-2pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$12-$13.

BARGAIN

CHINESE Chi Fu Just a quick hop from Liberdade Metrô lies the recently renovated Chi Fu. The clientele, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date). There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephonedirectory-sized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best.

The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap. Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am-4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN KOREAN Cho Sun Ok Korean-food

virgins can’t go wrong at this Liberdade local: just order the Korean barbecue.

It comes with sweet beef and a huge helping of mushrooms and vegetables, cooked right there at the table (R$85), and is served with an array of side dishes including kimchi (fermented vegetables). Pure shots of Soju (R$24, 360ml bottle), Korea’s national tipple – a kind of smooth saké, distilled from cereals – are de rigueur. Thankfully for your brain cells, the evening session closes early; but Cho Sun Ok also does a weekday executive lunch (R$48) with a spreads of hot and cold dishes chosen by the chef. Avenida da Aclimação 502, Liberdade (3271 9621/3208 2116).

Open noon-3pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$29-$50; lunch R$48.

JAPANESE Espaço Kazu This new

Japanese deli/bistro sets out to centralise an array of Japanese specialities into one unintimidating space. It breaks down like this: the main dining space (main courses R$23-$35) is a busy, Japanesestyle cafeteria specialising in udon (noodles), yakitori (skewered chicken) and teppanyaki (iron-grilled meats and fish), as well as sushi. Upstairs, there’s

Kazu Sake Emporium – a straight-outof-Shibuya sake bar boasting over 100 types of sipping sakes (R$25-$450) and Go!Go!Curry, which whips out a small menu of Japanese curries (R$26-$38), the highlight being the kanazawa curry – perfectly-breaded pork swimming in a mild, mud-hued curry sauce. The latter was authentic (the sauce is imported) and surprisingly tasty, but may seem a tad pricey for what is essentially Japanese fast food. Rua Thomaz Gonzaga 84, Liberdade (3208 6179/ kazusaopaulo.com.br). Open 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6-9pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$42.

Food & Drink

given day, the dishes might range from ocean-fresh salmon to mouth watering meatloaf (the restaurant boasts that the chef’s daily picks come from an archive of 1,600 international recipes). This is your best bet for quality food if you’re spending the entire day at São Paulo Fashion Week, the Art Bienal, or one of the myriad other cultural activities that take place in the park. MAM, Parque do Ibiraupera (no number), Ibirapuera (5085 1306). Open 10am-6pm TueSun. Buffet R$49-$56.

MACROBIOTIC Satori If you think

macrobiotic food is just for the brownrice-and-sandals brigade, Satori may just surprise you. It’s hidden away above a shop in an old Liberdade building, where patrons ring the buzzer next to an anonymous door to be let in. Inside and up the stairs, you’ll find a rustic and simple place with no menu. The chef, Tomio Kikuchi – a macrobiotic evangelist who is credited with having introduced macrobiotic food to Brazil – serves the lunch sitting, while his son Eiichi does dinner. Just don’t ask for a can of Coke. Praça Carlos Gomes 60, Liberdade (3242 9738). Open 11.30am2.30pm, 6-8pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am2.30pm Sat. Main courses R$10-$18.

JAPANESE Shin-Zushi It might be set on an isolated Paraíso corner away

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Food & Drink

from Liberdade, São Paulo’s traditional Japanese neighbourhood, but Shin-Zushi still delights fans of Japanese food, and was awarded the best sushi in town

by Estado de São Paulo’s demanding Paladar gastronomy magazine. The sushi is cut from top quality fish and it shows; while the rice dumpling, made from authentic Japanese grains, crumbles deliciously on the tongue. There’s also a good range of imported delicacies – if your wallet will stretch to it, try at least one toro tuna sushi – an unforgettable, if greasy, piece of tuna belly. Rua Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraíso (3889 8799).

Metrô 1 or 2, Paraíso. Open 11.30am2pm, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sat. 6-10pm Sun. Prices sushi set for one R$120-$280; lunch R$35; couvert R$10.

serves a classic of Portuguese cuisine: bachalhau (salt cod). Kick things off with the octopus starter, fried in bacon fat with coarse salt, followed by the perfectly-salted bacalhau a lagareiro – salt cod with golden onion, served with garlic slices, broccoli, green olives and baked potato. For dessert, both the sweet rice powdered with cinnamon and the delicate sericaria do Alentejo – a milk-and-egg pudding – are delicious..

Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main courses R$58-$98; lunch R$39; couvert R$17.

PIZZA Castelões This classic Italian restaurant, located in one of the city’s traditional Italian neighbourhoods, was founded in 1924, and its dusty Brooklin, Morumbi decor and antique pictures give it an & Berrini authentically nostalgic feel that BURGERS H3 many newer pizzerias try and Hamburgology fail to copy. The Castelões Treating the pursuit pizza, with handmade of the perfect sausage and mozzarella, patty as a science, is recommended, as is Hamburgology H3 the house margherita; has branches open but no matter which one across ten São Paulo you pick, rest assured o im s s ri e ry V shopping malls. Each that the dough will be e litera m o s r fo hamburger contains light, the crust scorched Stop byemed drinks.

200 grams of meat, and sensual, the tomato th rs a B e e S grilled the way each sauce packed with basil, and customer likes it. But it’ll be topped off with cheese don’t plan on getting of impeccable quality. Rua Jairo your hands dirty: burgers are served Góis 126, Brás (3229 0542). Metrô 3, here without a bun – and with cutlery.

Brás. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight You can team your burger with a choice daily. Main courses R$39-$64; couvert of sides: fries, salad or – gasp – rice.

R$9.

There’s also a menu of sauce options to top off your burger. Try the H3 Tuga, a homage to the chain’s Portuguese The South origins: the burger comes topped with a STEAKHOUSE Fogo de Chão Brazil’s fried egg and the sauce is made with a best-known barbecued meat franchise reduction of beer, garlic and bay leaves. has three restaurants in São Paulo, plus Avenida Roque Petroni Júnior 1089, branches in Brasília, Salvador, Belo Morumbi (4003 4132/h3.com/br). Open Horizonte and across the USA. The 10am-10pm Mon-Sun. Burgers R$15.45owners are gaúchos, from Brazil’s South $22.95 (includes fries). Other locations – the country’s cattle hotspot. So unlike Citywide. some rodízios, Brazilian steak house VEGETARIAN Recanto Vegetariano restaurants, they don’t bother mucking Overshadowed by skyscrapers along up the menu with irrelevant sushi: just Avenida Berrini, this pleasant, allthe best cuts of Brazilian meat, like inclusive vegetarian buffet serves picanha, fraldinha and maminha. Note some of the best organic food in town. that Fogo has one of the most extensive Recanto Vegetariano exemplifies the wine lists in the city. For dessert, try the energy of natural food lovers the world chocolate mousse with port. Avenida over: frustrated by the lack of fresh Santo Amaro 6824, Santo Amaro ingredients, these enterprising locals (5524 0500/fogodechao.com.br). Open decided not only to open their own noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; restaurant, but to also supply it with their noon-midnight Sat; noon-10.30pm own homegrown organic vegetables – the Sun. Fixed price R$108 (w/out meat owners even provide photo proof of their R$87). Other locations Avenida dos Bandeirantes 538, Vila Olímpia (5505 agricultural prowess. Rua Flórida 1442, 0791); Avenida Moreira Guimarães Brooklin (5506 8944/recantovegetariano.

964, Moema (5056 1795); Travessa com.br). Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; Casalbuono 120 (Shopping Center noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$26Norte), Vila Guilherme (2089 1736); Rua $29. No credit cards.

Augusta 2077, Jardim Paulista (3062 2223).

Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé PORTUGUESE Bacalhoeiro Tatuapé, in

São Paulo’s endless Zona Leste, or East Zone, has been one of São Paulo’s fastest growing bairros in recent years, with deluxe real estate shooting up all over the place. It’s good news for gourmets, thanks to the ambitious new restaurants that just keep opening. This relaxed, elegant restaurant is one of them, and it

SPANISH Maripili Paulistanos in search

of authentic Spanish grub head straight for Maripili – a small, simple restaurant whose owner, chef and waiting staff all have Spanish roots. Try a pintxo de tortilla and follow it up with a nice cup of espresso; then close your eyes and imagine you’re in Madrid – because this potato tortilla has all the volume, texture and moisture you’d find at any good

press image

IN THE AREA

Spudnik The chef at Miya is turning the roof deck over to group lunching at the weekends, serving the likes of paella and roasts to groups of between 4 and 12. Book at least 5 days ahead. R$85-R$120 per person. See listings

Spanish diner. Maripili also serves a very good gazpacho and rabo de toro (oxtail), cooked in red wine. Rua Alexandre Dumas 1152, Santo Amaro (5181 4422/ maripili.com.br). Open noon-5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$10$34.

The North ARMENIAN Garabed A brisk 15-minute march uphill from Santana Metrô, Garabed is one of the city’s better-known off-thebeaten track restaurants, like nearby Mocotó. Unlike in most of São Paulo’s Middle Eastern joints, the bread here is homemade; and it’s good, light and chewy.

Babaganoush comes doused with toasted pine nuts and herbs, and without the usual underlying acidity, and the juicy, meaty kaftas are served with fluffy rice. Of the imaginative range of esfihas, don’t miss the tasty and surprisingly light Armenian dried-meat version. The excellent food should help soothe the trauma of the decor, which has all the timeless ambience of an Eastern European waiting room. The only visual relief comes from watching the chefs up at the counter, busy shaping dough next to rows of glistening baklava.

Rua José Margarido 216, Santana (2976 2750/casagarabed.com.br). Open noon11pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$28.50$58.

BRAZILIAN Mocotó Serving up arguably the best Brazilian food in the city, Mocotó is a foodie’s delight. Located in the anonymous mass of higgledypiggledy houses in the far northeastern suburbs, what it takes to eat at Mocotó is time, both in getting there and waiting for a table; so come with patience and a hearty appetite. The restaurant’s young chef, Rodrigo Oliveira, creatively updates traditional North Eastern dishes such as baião de dois (black eyed peas, rice and a rennet cheese) or carne de sol – sun-cured beef – served with a whole head of garlic and baby chillies on the side. Oliveira even makes his own pork scratchings – torresmo. To finish, make sure to try the homemade ice-cream studded with pieces of rapadura – a solid fudge of unrefined sugarcane juice. And a shot or two of cachaça, don’t you think? – to aid digestion, of course. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (2951 3056/mocoto.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-11pm Sat; 11.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses R$16.90-$89.90 (for two).

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Bars & Cafés Take seven... brand new bars

mid-January, BrewDog will serve its bottled beers, packed with hops and attitude, typified in names like Hardcore IPA and Nanny State.

It may have ‘pub’ in its name, but beers aren’t all you should expect to find at the Jet Lag Pub (Rua da Consolação 3032, Jardim Paulista, 5103 1400, jetlagpub.com.br). An airline theme, harking back to the golden age of aviation, sees a DJ spinning tracks from inside the nose of a jet plane, and the staff sporting Pan Am-inspired pilots uniforms.

Truck stop French fare served under a Brazilian night sky at Les 3 Brasseurs

Just a couple of blocks down the hill, and a couple of notches up on the sophistication stakes, the bar-restaurant Barê (Alameda Lorena 1982, Jardim Paulista, 3564 2015, barejardins.com.br) looks set to gather a glamorous clientele in a two-storey space decked out in glass, concrete and mirrors. Sip on a Berlusconi (see photo, R$26) – Belvedere vodka with red fruits, Aperol and sparkling Chandon Brut.

Sophisticated drinks and an elegant interior – think scarlet wallpaper, table lamps and leather armchairs – give Admiral’s Place (1st floor, Rua Minas Gerais 350, Consolação, 3257 1575, admiralsplace. com) the air of an English gentlemen’s club. Set above the trendy Sal Gastronomia (see Restaurant listings), it boasts an impressive lineup of seventy whiskys, with forty single malts. To eat, taste of whisky in the cure – along with juniper, salt, dill and honey – in the salmon gravadlax (R$38).

From understated interiors to the bright and breezy, the pink façade of the Colombian barrestaurant Guanahaní (Rua Joaquim Antunes 391, Pinheiros, 3060 9169, guanahanibrasil.com. br) is hard to miss. Opened up next door to buzzy eatery Brado (see

tadeu brunelli/press image

A taste of Colombia Red-and-black leather chairs contrast with brightly painted outdoor furniture at Guanahaní

adilson silva/press image

It’s been brewing for a while. The local taste for craft beer – a welcome antidote to the bland, mass-produced beers that dominate the market – just keeps on growing, with ever more watering holes bringing interesting brews to a wider crowd than the die-hard beer nerds. In Moema, the cosy Bier Bär (Rua Tuim 253, Moema, 5051 6695, bierbar.com.br) has around 150 artistanal beers on its menu, forty of which are local: a good choice are the tasty brews from the Curitiba brewery Bodebrown.

Beer is the main draw at the nearby Les 3 Brasseurs (Rua Jesuíno Arruda 470, Itaim Bibi, 3167 4145, les3brasseurs.com.br) along with beer’s bedfellow, football: six 42-inch screens show matches inside, with a 60-inch screen out in the beer garden, where the roof is rolled back on mild summer nights.

The brewpub is the first Brazilian branch of a French chain, serving up four house brews along with simple French food such as tartines.

Another foreign import is that of the Scottish brewery BrewDog (Rua dos Coropés 41, Pinheiros, 3032 4007) which, having opened 13 bars across the UK, is now taking on the world, starting with São Paulo. Open here since

renato rocha/press image

Start the year on a high note at one of the city’s newest bars. Catherine Balston rounds them up

Scandalous The Berlusconi at Barê

Restaurant listings), the interior goes for a more muted approach.

Peru may be taking all the glory in ceviche’s world food fad moment, but you can try it Colombian style here, with prawns marinated in a colourful mix of orange, peppers, tomato, corn, mango and coriander (R$35). Order a Tiki Guanahaní (rum with watermelon and spices, R$19) and soak up the tropical Caribbeanmeets-South-Pacific-vibes.

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How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites.

We visits bars anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks. For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Amigo Leal Germans originally popularised beer in Brazil, and this woodpanelled bar has a credible Rhine River feel. The name means ‘loyal friend’, and the businessmen who’ve been coming to relax here after a hard day’s work in the city centre for decades would no doubt agree. Quality draught beer, pastéis and German dishes like Eisbein (pigs’ knees) and Kassler (pork chops) are all on the cards. Rua Amaral Gurgel 165, República (3223 6873/amigoleal.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 4pm-1am MonFri; noon-1am Sat; 5pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.40; caipirinha R$11.

Piano Bar do Terraço Itália You could almost be in a London gentlemen’s club at the bar at the top of landmark Edificio Itália, if it weren’t for the floor-toceiling windows providing a 360-degree view of the city. Here on the 42nd floor, you are above the city’s other skyscrapers bar none, and even above the helicopters below. The unobstructed view comes at a cost: R$30 added to your bill, but it’s worth it. Settle into one of the brown leather chairs, and enjoy the classic vibe over a caipirinha with saké and basil while you gaze in wonder at the city below. The bar scores high on warm service, too. 41st floor, Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (2189 2929/terracoitalia. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-1am Mon-Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$22; cover R$30.

Consolação & Higienópolis Exquisito! The giant murals and retro posters coupled with the colourful decor, voluble chatter and general sense

of life give this bar-cum-restaurant a uniquely Latin American vibe. No wonder you sometimes have to queue for a table, even on a Sunday night. They serve food from all over the continent, but the ceviche is particularly recommended and the chilli con carne will feed three. Rua Bela Cintra 532, Consolação (3854 6522/ exquisito.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 6pm-1.30am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu; 6pm-late Fri, Sat; 6pm-1.30am Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$14.

on Tuesdays and Fridays, and served fresh (R$27 for half a dozen), with lime.

Team them with an artisanal cachaça (R$3), followed by a plate of heavenly, crunchy fried sardines (R$15 for four) or a casquinha de siri – stuffed crab shell (R$12). Rua Ministro Ferreira Alves 131, Perdizes (2369 5657). Open 4pm-1am Tue-Fri; 1.30pm-1am Sat; 1.30pmmidnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$16.

Pé Pra Fora Stuck out on its lonesome, just far enough off the beaten track to have a Cheers-like quality, this bar is frequented by neighbourhood regulars.

Pé Pra Fora has been serving cold ones for 42 years, and with quality service too – when the waiters haven’t got one eye on the football match, that is. On the flipside, this is an excellent, no-fuss place to catch a game. The tables are scattered across the pavement in a large, airy space dominated by a wall painting of a bare foot kicking you onto the street, and the place is reliably bustling on lazy Saturday afternoons, when you can feast on what

Sancho Bar y Tapas A classier alternative to Rua Augusta’s more lowrent watering holes, Sancho Bar y Tapas carries its Spanish theme from the menu – a mix of tapas dishes to share and individual pintxo-style portions of bread with ambrosial toppings, lined up along the long, underlit bar – through to the décor, with an eclecticism that takes in everything from vintage bullfighting posters to Basque flags. Spanish wine can be ordered by the glass (R$15-$30), though you’ll need psychic powers to interpret the cryptic cocktail menu, with house concoctions like the ‘Sancho’ listed by name but devoid of any explanation.

Rua Augusta 1415, Consolação (3141 1956/sanchobarytapas.com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-midnight MonWed; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-1am Thu; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-3am Fri; 5.30pm3am Sat; 5.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14.

Suíte Savalas It’s a curious facet of modern life that anything from the ’70s is cool. Especially if it was on TV. Cashing in on that trend, the name of Greek-American actor Aristotelis ‘Telly’ Savalas, best known for starring in the ’70s crime drama Kojak, is the moniker of choice of this bar, while inside, photos of cult TV shows and films adorn the walls.

But cinematic references aside, what Suíte Savalas is really all about is being a New York-style, no-nonsense bar – eminently welcome in a city with such a gaping void between pavement boteco and upwardly mobile, designer lounge poncery. The low red lights and clean-without-beingpristine interior fill up with a young, agreeably mixed bunch of customers. We like. Rua Mato Grosso 398, Consolação (3259 4355). Open 9pm-3am WedSat. Prices small bottle beer R$6.50; caipirinha R$15; cover R$15.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda O Catarina If the city won’t go to the beach, bring the beach to the city. That’s the creed of Florianópolis fisherman Renato Silvy Andrade, who recently opened this small boteco. With its scattering of tables outside on the pavement, and a handful inside, it’s a family affair here, and as simple and welcoming as if you were at a beach barraca (tent). Feast on the plump oysters, delivered from Floripa by plane

Critics’ choice Craft beer bars

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Food & Drink

The hot list – bars

Botequim do Cesinha Small but perfectly formed, this hole-in-the-wall spot crams a surprising array of craft beers into its handful of fridges. The owners – Cesinha and his wife – double as waiters and chefs.

Coisa Boa Specialising in imported brews, this popular after-work spot in Itaim even boasts a beer sommelier to orientate those dazzled by the choice.

Frangó An old favourite for beer nerds, Frangó’s menu is immense, and starts with a selection of beer ‘tasting menus’.

some hold to be the best feijoada in the city. Avenida Pompéia 2517, Perdizes (3672 4154/pepraforabar.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open noon-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-8pm Sat, Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$4.70; caipirinha R$11.10.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bow-tied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel.

But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup): it’s a national gastronomic icon.

Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent red-and-black bar with some of the best cocktails in town. Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (3815 1364/barastor.com.br/ subastor.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-1am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu-Sat, noon-7pm Sun. SubAstor: 8pm-3am TueThu; 8pm-4am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$6.40; caipirinha R$19.

Cervejaria Nacional No beer in São Paulo travels a shorter distance from barrel to glass than at this microbrewerycum-bar. Sit at the counter on the first floor overlooking the vast fermentation tanks below, or head up to the top-floor dining area for a cosier spot. If you like beer, go the whole hog with the degustação (R$19.90) – a 150ml sampler of all five of the home brews – a weiss beer, a lager, an India pale ale (IPA), a brown ale and a stout. Friendly service and good food make this an excellent choice for a group night out: go for the live jazz on Tuesday nights and blues on Thursdays. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros (3628 5000/ cervejarianacional.com.br). Open 5pmmidnight Mon-Wed; 5pm-1.30am Thu; noon-1.30am Fri, Sat. Prices pint of beer R$15; caipirinha R$13; cover R$0$12.

Salve Jorge The clientele may be everso-slightly older, but this bar, a homage to Georges the world over – from Jorge Ben to St. George – retains the charm and the noise of a classic Brazilian watering-hole.

Beer and chicken are the classic combo: choose from around twenty brands of bottled beers, which come to the table in a bucket, packed with ice. The galeto à moda do Jorge (fried chunks of chicken) is de rigeur, in either a half or whole chook portion size. Happy hours are always packed at the newer Itaim location, opened in 2010. Rua Aspicuelta 544, Vila Madalena (barsalvejorge.com.br/3815 0705). Open noon-1am Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6, caipirinha R$8.

Other location Rua Bandeira Paulista 327, Itaim Bibi (3071 0389).

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Food & Drink

Jardins Bar Balcão Find a space at the curvy wooden counter that snakes all the way around the ground floor of this welcoming, friendly bar. Then settle in with a chope and soak up the atmosphere. Popular with journalists, artists and descolado Jardins residents, the twists and turns of the communal bar and the convivial atmosphere make this the best bar in town for conversation, including those struck up between customers, cheek by jowl at the bar. There’s no music and no fuss here – it’s simple and stylish, attracting a slightly older, funky crowd. The food, like the service, is simple but good quality – and that giant pop art painting on the wall? It’s a genuine Roy Lichtenstein. Rua Dr. Melo Alves 150, Jardim Paulista (3063 6091). Open 6pm-1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.60; caipirinha R$11.80.

Bar da Dida Candle-lit by moonlight, this ace little bar on the edge of Jardins doesn’t get going till the hairdressers’ next door winds down – that’s because the sought-after, humble plastic tables are set out on the salon’s parking spaces. Huge caipirinhas and a buzzing atmosphere make this simple, friendly spot one of our absolute faves. Mill about and wait for a table if necessary, or give up and retire to Bar Balcão, a short walk away. Rua Doutor Melo Alves 98, Jardim Paulista (3088 7177/bardadida.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6.30pm-

1am Tue-Sat; 5.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$14.

Skye Regarded as one of the city’s modern architectural wonders, Hotel Unique’s half-moon design is certainly eye-catching. And it’s the only place many visiting star DJs and other high flyers will stay. Consequently, the hotel’s signature rooftop poolside bar is as selfconsciously fashionable as you might expect – but the view and the pool are simply stunning. Order a mojito and lounge on one of the outside deck chairs under the mood-enhancing lighting.

Hotel Unique, Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700, Jardim Paulista (3055 4710/skye.com.br). Open 6pm12.30am Mon-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$12; caipirinha R$26.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled by the hum of chatter as you approach Bottagallo, or by the huddles of people outside, relaxing on the long benches with a beer or standing around chatting.

Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; and happily – because the wait is well worth it. Kick off with one of the no-fuss house cocktails to get things going. Once inside and settled at one of the rustic wooden tables, just let the

efficient, friendly waiters Fri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Prices keep the cold chope small bottle beer R$10.90-$159.90, coming, and order a caipirinha R$19. plate or two of the Wall Street Bar Feeling like delicious, madeGordon Gekko on a weekday for-sharing night? That’s Michael tapas. Rua Douglas’s era-defining Jesuíno Arruda ini rt a m r e p character in the 1987 Wall 520, Itaim Bibi The Ves h a hint of it Street movie, not the sequel.

(3078 2858/ Mixed w on m le Then head down to Itaim’s bottagallo.com.

3 R$18-$2 Wall Street Bar and join the br). Open shirt-sleeved business folk as 6.30pmthey loosen their ties and gamble midnight Mon; on drinks prices while they rise and fall 6.30pm-1am Tue-Thu; depending on who’s buying what. It’s 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; black and tiled with a big bull statue noon-2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices outside, but don’t fret – lunch isn’t for chope R$6; caipirinha R$16.50. wimps at Wall Street: they do serve Coisa Boa This glass-walled bar food. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 149, Itaim dedicated to interesting ales comprises Bibi (3873 6922/wallstreetbar.com. a wooden deck on the street, a main br). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Sat; 3-11pm bar and a quieter mezzanine. But the Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; best table in the house is the largest caipirinha R$18; minimum spend R$15one – a long, low communal table $30. (technically the waiting area) beside the supermarket-style chiller cabinet from where you can survey an impressive Ibirapuera & Moema range of more than 200 brews from Bar Ao Vivo This charming little around the world. Help yourself to a nightspot is somewhere between dark bottle of pale ale, weissbier or porter, jazz bar and cheerful little pub, and as its or ask the friendly ‘beer sommelier’ for name – which roughly translates as Live help navigating the selection. To soak up Music Bar – suggests, it’s a good place to the suds, we sampled the picadinho with catch musicians doing their thing. And a brie sauce (R$35) – a (not quite hot those can include respected Brazilian enough) mound of beef strips sitting on performers like bossa nova veterans a cheesey sauce with bread for mopping.

Zimba Trio. Try the chef’s martini, Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 909, Itaim Bibi made with premium vodka, Cointreau (3073 0773). Open 5pm-midnight Tue-

GO FOR

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Bar do Batista Great food and music are the soul of this Moema boteco, where owner Batista describes the clientele as ‘friends not customers’. The original owners were the estranged parents of MPB queen Elis Regina. She never set foot in the bar but today, many musicians still while away the afternoons here. ‘Our food is nothing elaborate but it’s well made’ says the owner. And we can testify to that. Don’t miss the prawn pastéis and bolinhos de bacalhau (fried cod balls). Avenida Ceci 868, Moema (5055 1435). Open 7am-11pm MonFri; 8am-6pm Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4; caipirinha R$6.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana As Mineiras Set on a quiet residential street, this bar and its adjacent store are a twin homage to São Paulo’s neighbouring state of Minas Gerais.

Folk art chickens and bottles of hot peppers from Minas adorn the shelves around the bar. Take a seat beneath the wagon-wheel chandeliers and take your pick of shareable mineiro staples like pastel de angú (corn meal fritters) and bolinhos de feijão (bean balls). The real draw, though, is the drinks menu, with a comprehensive selection of cachaças and bonus happy hour specials that includes 2-for-1 caipirinhas every day except Saturday. Rua França Pinto 965, Vila Mariana (5083 5835/ asmineiras.com.br). Open 4-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

Choperia Liberdade A gloriously kitsch and raucous atmosphere prevails at this karaoke hangout in the heart of São Paulo’s Japanese district. The bar also has a big back room full of pool tables, which tends to fill with smoke from the grill. The food isn’t amazing, the dancefloor is more of an ad-hoc space cleared in the throng; and the karaoke singers tend to be more miss than hit; but it’s great for a messy, drunken night out. At weekends, it’s packed, and note that you’ll need to get your name down early if you want your three minutes of fame. Rua da Glória 523, Liberdade (3207 8783).

Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 7pm5am Tue-Thu; 7pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-5am Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$0-$10.

Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours mixed up by barman Souza and his crew. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss.

There’s limited space inside, so expect to wait for a seat, or settle for standingroom on the pavement outside, next door to the extraordinary Sabesp watertank building. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken

croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts.

Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm-12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

Food & Drink

and Blue Curaçao. Rua Inhambu 229, Moema (5052 0072/aovivomusic.com. br). Open 7pm-2am Mon-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$10-$40.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cervejaria Ô Fiô Ale aficionados and lager lovers will be drawn to this bar’s more-than-comprehensive beer menu.

Come on a sunny afternoon to enjoy the pleasant outdoor patio space while you make a start on trying the hundreds of Brazilian and international beers. The Brazilian beers are divided by region, with more than 25 beers from São Paulo state alone. Baden Baden’s smooth and filling stout gives Guinness a subtropical run for its money; or how about one of the ten labels from Rio Grande do Sul, where the influence of Brazil’s German immigrants is most obvious?

A varied clientele comes on Saturday afternoons to listen to live samba de raiz while lining their stomachs with a filling feijoada (R$32). Rua Lício Marcondes Amaral 51, Morumbi (3721 6636/ cervejariaofio.com.br). Open 6pm-late Mon-Fri; noon-late Sat, Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.50-$200; caipirinha R$12; cover R$7-$9.

Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo. References to his work pepper the bar, from his cheery face in photos and caricatures lining the walls to excerpts from his books on the napkins, and even in the menu too, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book. Find savoury snacks like the battered brie with chilli jam (R$30) on the menu under ‘piriris’ – a word of Veríssimo’s own invention, meaning little bites to eat. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar.com.br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

The North Frangó Perched on a hill overlooking the city in northern suburb Freguesia do Ó is a São Paulo mecca for chicken and beer. Go early on a sunny afternoon and bag a table outside on the square overlooking the church. Kick things off with the infamous chicken and catupiry coxinha. Beer lovers should try one of the beer-tasting menus, which meander through Brazilian, British and even rare Trappist beers. Each one is served at the right temperature and in the correct shape of glass. Consider lining your stomach first with a frango completo – a spit-roast chicken served with polenta, farofa and salad. Largo da Matriz Nossa Senhora do Ó 168, Freguesia do Ó (3932 4818/frangobar.com.br). Open 11am-midnight Tue-Thu; 11am-2am Fri, Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Prices chope R$7.80; caipirinha R$16.50.

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Food & Drink

The hot list – cafés How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice-cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

New in town Bolo e Bule

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Ibirapuera & Moema CAFÉ Pain et Chocolat This is the place for a blowout weekend breakfast, with everything from cakes, breads, fruits and cheeses to eggs and crêpes. Amongst the treats on the menu are the Maria Fernanda (R$8.90) – chocolate mousse with banana crème brûlée. Rua Canário 1301, Moema (5094 0550/painetchocolat.com.br). Open 11am-10pm Tue-Fri; 8.30am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$16.50-$19.90.

CAFÉ Café Martinelli Midi In keeping

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NEW means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana

with the emblematic Martinelli building, which became South America’s first skyscraper when it opened in 1929, the building’s café transports customers back to a bygone era, with 1920s furniture and décor. Sip a coffee made in the traditional filter method, or go for a more inventive coffee. The French-inspired kitchen’s croques (R$17.90), the leek quiche (R$4.50), vol-au-vents (R$23) or the pear tart with almonds (R$8.90) make the perfect accompaniment. Rua Líbero Badaró 508, República (3104 6825/cafemartinellimidi. com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.30; sandwiches R$5-$18.

Mini cakes, classic cakes, gluten-free cakes, cakes baked in loaf tins, round fluted cakes, quirky cakes (think rum, lime and mint); in short, cake heaven is what the newly opened Bolo e Bule (‘cake and teapot’) café and cakeshop is. And, as the name suggests, you can team your dream slice with a cup of tea in the cutesy Jardins space, with its 1960s-meets-industrial-vibe, all brightly coloured crockery and furniture against bare concrete and brick walls. Alameda Lorena 1198, Jardim Paulista (3807 0157). Prices cafezinho R$4.50; mini cake (for one) R$7.

Consolação & Higienópolis

result is – apparently – the perfect infusion.

Rua Matheus Grou 89, Pinheiros (2936 4814/thegourmettea.com.br). Open 10am9pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$3.40; tea R$4.90; lunch R$19.70-$24.70.

BAKERY Benjamin Abrahão The Jardins branch of this citywide bakery is the most modern and trendy; but this Higienópolis version, older and considerably more traditional, is still sought out for its sweets and croissants, especially the ham croissant, a spot-on snack accompanied by coffee or juice. Rua Maranhão 220, Higienópolis (3258 1855/ benjaminabrahao.com.br). Open 6am8.30pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.70; sandwiches R$7.90-$10.20. Other locations Citywide.

café Nicecup One of the best cafés in

the Vila Mariana and Chácara Klabin area, Nicecup has something of a retro air, its ample space replete with varnished wood, and red armchairs. The espressos (R$4.30) are made with their own brand coffee and team up well with a plate of mini churros (R$17,50) and hot chocolate sauce. Rua Pedro Nicole 1, Vila Mariana (5083 1012/nicecup.com. br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Thu; noonmidnight Fri-Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4.30; sandwiches R$19-$28.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini

ICE CREAM Stuzzi Gelato Caffé This small parlour attracts hordes of ice-cream lovers, especially on weekends, for its highly recommended Italian-style ice-cream. Rua Paulistânia 450, Vila Madalena (3816 0279/stuzzi.com.br) Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 9am8pm Mon-Sat; 12pm-8pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3; ice-cream R$14-$18 (two scoops).

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

Jardins

CAFÉ Gourmet Tea Company You’ll

queues waiting to savour the incredible ice-cream at this chic gelataria on Rua Oscar Freire. The gelato machines, icecream cabinets and even the spatulas, were all imported from Italy, but the ice-cream is made right here. Rua Oscar Freire 136, Jardim Paulista (3662 2573/baciodilatte. com). Open noon-10pm Mon-Wed; noon-

be greeted by a striking array of brightly coloured tins of tea behind the counter at this emporium-cum-tea-house. Park up at one of the few wooden tables to take part in a modern take on a tea ceremony. It involves a stopwatch and a quick-release teapot-and-cup-in-one contraption, and the

or to settle in for an afternoon’s remote working. On sunny days, opt for an iced coffee outside on the terrace. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2996, Itaim Bibi (3074 0110/octaviocafe.com). Open 7.45am-10pm Mon-Fri; 9am-11pm Sat; 9am-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$5.10; sandwiches R$14.50-$34.

ICE CREAM Bacio di Latte Join the

11pm Thu-Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4; ice-cream R$8-$12.

Other locations Citywide.

CAFÉ Suplicy Café At this small, highend local coffee chain, the baristas are friendly and the brewers take their coffee seriously – you can watch the beans being roasted in a huge contraption that looks like it might have come straight out of Willy Wonka’s Factory. Alameda Lorena 1430, Jardim Paulista (3061 0195/ suplicycafes.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 7.30am-10pm Mon-Thu; 8.30am11pm Fri, Sat; 8.30am-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$5; sandwiches R$11.90$18.90. Other locations Citywide.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia CAFÉ Octavio Café Incongruous with the towers of finance that flank Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, Octavio Café is a vast, curvaceous, timber-clad temple to the bean. The location, speedy service, comfy seats and acres of space make this a sought-after spot for a business meeting

ICE CREAM Mil Frutas This ice-cream parlour has delicious gelati made with tropical fruit and exotic ingredients from all over the world. The ice-cream isn’t cheap, but if you take up the offer to taste a flavour or two before you buy, you can move one step closer to maximum pleasure. 1st floor, Shopping Cidade Jardim, Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (3552 5900/milfrutas. com.br). Open 10am-10.15pm Mon-Sat; 1-9pm Sun. Prices ice-cream R$9.

Santo Amaro & Campo Belo café Café des Fleurs What Café des Fleurs lacks in space it makes up for in cosy ambience, with a cute Provençal décor. The espresso (R$3.90), made with Orfeu beans, as well as Nespresso options, go well with the croque monsieur (R$23.90), followed by a mil-folhas – custard cream (R$13.50). Divine. Rua Gabriele D’annunzio 1291, Campo Belo (5093 2003). Open 11.30am-10pm Tue-Fri; 9am-10pm Sat, Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.90; sandwiches R$8.90-$19.90

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Out & About This month in São Paulo

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Art & Museums Shopping & Style Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Performance Football & World Cup 2014

What’s his face Romeo Castelucci’s controversial play, ‘Sobre o Conceito da Face no Filho de Deus’

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Art & Museums Brazil’s got talent

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TCHELO/press image

What does it take to be an artist?

A degree in fine art? A bursting portfolio? Friends in the right places? It just takes talent, according to the annual Salão dos Artistas Sem Galeria (Artists Without Galleries) exhibition, which invites applications from artists of all stripes – they need only be over 6 years of age, and not yet represented by a São Paulo gallery. Run by artworld maverick Celso Fioravante, the founder and editor of Mapa das Artes, SP’s monthly arts map, the event, now in its fifth edition, receives dozens of submissions each year, ranging from works by absolute beginners to portfolios by seasoned artists.

In techniques including video, photography and oil pastel as well as painting and sculpture, artworks by the ten artists picked to take part this year are on show in simultaneous exhibitions at two galleries: the uptown, top-ranking Zipper Galeria in Jardins, and Vila Madalena’s grungier, more casual Casa da Xiclet.

The works have a similarly eclectic span, from Zed Nesti’s assured, macabre oil-paintings to

Scribbler ‘Vertical #4’, by Tchelo

Sheila Ortega/press image

The 5th ‘Artists Without Galleries’ brings brand new faces into the public eye, says Claire Rigby

Fruit loop A still-life photograph, ‘#5’, by Sheila Ortega, part of the exhibition on show at Zipper Galeria

Clara Benfatti’s exquisite backlit cityscapes, cut in delicate layers of paper with details picked out in white ink. Bursting with strange organic forms, Marcos Akasaki’s delirious paintings depict weird gardens bubbling over with colour and life, while in Sheila Ortega’s stilllife photograph, #5, part of a series, ‘Ao Alcance da Mão’ (Within Reach), the apparently simple objects – worn-out brushes, odd plastic bits and fragments of tools arranged with apples, oranges and a white balloon – become more compelling as you study them, the battered tray they are stacked on, and the texture of the wall behind.

The artists were chosen from 149 hopeful applicants by a jury made up of curators João Spinelli and Paula Braga, and the gallerist Elísio Yamada, of Galeria Pilar. ‘I was delighted to be asked to take part,’ says Yamada. ‘The concept of artists without galleries has lots of crossover with what we are doing, as a young gallery ourselves.’ Galeria

Pilar, founded in 2011 in the gritty, heart-of-the-city neighbourhood of Santa Cecília by Yamada alongside Henrique Miziara, represents around a dozen artists. They include young turks like the installation artist Bruno Baptistelli, the painter André Ricardo and the inventive, playful sculptor Chico Togni, as well as better-known names like Argentina’s high priestess of performance art, Marta Minujín.

Does Yamada think gallerists visit this kind of event in search of new artists for their rosters? ‘Defnitely!’ says Yamada. ‘We did it ourselves in the case of Rodrigo Sassi, an artist who’s doing incredibly well at the moment. In fact, we’d seen his work before; but our interest was absolutely confirmed during the third Artistas Sem Galeria.’ In that edition, Henrique Miziara, Yamada’s partner in Galeria Pilar, was one of the jury members.

By the same token, is every ‘artist without a gallery’ in search of a gallery to represent them?

‘Galleries are obviously important,’ says Yamada. ‘They act as public agents of culture, in the sense that you have an open gallery with free access: open to all, and also free of charge. They’re opinion formers. But I also think that for various reasons, including the technological and the geographical – the ease with which people and things can move around and be viewed now – there are increasingly more and new ways in which artists can take part in the art circuit. I think it’s absolutely possible for an artist to become established without the help of a gallery, and I think many artists are looking for ways to do so. Galleries need to think about that too – about new strategies and new ways of working in partnership with artists.’

The 5th Salão dos Artistas Sem Galeria is at Zipper Galeria (see listings) until 15 February, and at Casa da Xiclet, Rua Fradique Coutinho 1885, Vila Madalena (2579 9007/casadaxiclet). FREE

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Museums & cultural centres Europa (3062 5245/emaklabin.org.br).

Open 2-4pm Tue, Thur-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat, public holidays. Admission R$10; R$5 reductions.

Instituto de Arte Contemporânea The Institute is part of the enormous University of São Paul. Its illustrious alumni include Brazil’s former president Fernando Henrique Cardoso.

Rua Doutor Álvaro Alvim 90 (1st floor), Vila Mariana (3255 2009/iacbrasil.org. br). Open 10am-8pm Tue-Sat; noon5pm Sun. Instituto Tomie Ohtake Housed in an imposing dark glass skyscraper intertwined with steel waves of purple and maroon, and named after the iconic Japanese-Brazilian artist, the Instituto dominates the Pinheiros skyline. It was designed by Tomie Ohtake’s son, Ruy Ohtake – also the designer of the unique, half-moon-shaped Hotel Unique – and isn’t afraid to shock with challenging exhibitions. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 201, Pinheiros (2245 1900/ institutotomieohtake.org.br). Open 11am8pm Tue-Sun. Itaú Cultural This bank-owned cultural centre stages some of the best shows in town, from standout fine art to regular exhibitions on all sorts of aspects of culture, including digital. It also has a library containing audiovisual research material as well as more traditional

Art & Museums

Centro Cultural São Paulo Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the vast, multilevel space. A spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden with a restaurant and café where you can sit and enjoy views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural. sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE Espaço Cultural BM&F BOVESPA Combine a visit to one of the temporary exhibitions at the Espaço Cultural, housed inside the entrance hall to São Paulo’s stock exchange, with a guided tour of the financial institution – ask at the reception desk. Praça Antonio Prado 48, Centro (2565 6826). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm. FREE Fundação Ema Gordon Klabin An eclectic, personal mix of exhibits reflects collector Ema Klabin’s interests over four decades. Pre-Columbian, European, Asian and African art, decorative arts, and silverware adorn this beautiful house, itself a work of art. Guided tours take place on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays at 2pm, 3pm and 4pm, and on Saturdays at 10am, 11.30am and 2pm, and they can be booked by phone or by completing a form on the museum’s website. The museum also stages regular musical events. Rua Portugal 43, Jardim

PRESS IMAGE

No filter Daniel Arsham

Reimagining obsolete electronica – bulky ’90s laptops, Polaroid cameras, vintage TVs – as eroding relics, the US artist Daniel Arsham reconstructs their forms in materials like volcanic ash and rusted metal – hence the show’s name, ‘Volcanic Ash, Rusted Steel’. Arsham’s first Latin American exhibition, the works are a stark reminder of the gadgets we treasure today only to discard tomorrow. Baró Galeria, 15 February to 29 March. See listings.

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Galleries

Paulistano pix Photo show

How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres.

Recommended institutions are marked with a .

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/ galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm MonFri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

Consolação Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista behind a blank façade that the gallery sometimes uses as a canvas. Inside, in a set of spaces designed by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists, investing considerable care and effort into their careers. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/galeriavermelho.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/casatriangulo. com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Luciana Brito Galeria This elegant gallery represents 20 high-calibre artists from Brazil and abroad, including iconic names like Marina Abramovic, Regina Silveira and Mônica Nador, as well as emerging artists. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 842, Vila Olímpia (3842 0634/ lucianabritogaleria.com.br). Open 10am7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Baró Galeria Baró is an important player in SP and beyond, and it does things on a grand scale, with a constantly changing programme and a hallmark dash of daring. The stylish Spanish owner, Maria Baró, has also developed particularly good connections with artists from other Latin American countries. Rua Barra Funda 216, Santa Cecília (3666 6489/barogaleria.com). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena Marcelo Donatelli/PRESS IMAGE

Art & Museums

Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

Santa Cecília

Returning for a fifth edition, the 5th Mostra SP de Fotografia photo festival takes over the neighbourhood of Vila Madalena, presenting the work of 150 photographers in some 40 mini-exhibitions, ranging from photo-friendly art spaces like the trailblazing DOC Galeria to more eclectic spots like restaurants and shops. Related events include projections, discussions and workshops – the latter including a series led by Magnum photographers.

Plan out your route at mostrasaopaulodefotografia.com.br, or make a day of it with a wander around the Vila, soaking up as much photography as your eyes will take. Image above by Marcelo Donatelli 25 January to 23 February. FREE

Jardins Cartel011 This two-floor building in Pinheiros is a multi-purpose space that contains a stylish shop as well as a salon, a restaurant out back (Feed Food), and the gallery space. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (3081 4171/ cartel011.com.br).

Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. The new building features a striking facade made of exposed bricks placed sideways-on to create a surface with hundreds of perforations. Inside, a classic white-cube exhibition space leads up to a large office the gallery plans to share with other creatives, as a kind of hub. Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/emmathomas.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s.

With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as midcareer artists such as Alexandre da Cunha.

Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/galerialuisastrina. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Zipper Galeria The emphasis at this gallery, owned by the experienced galerista Fabio Cimino, is on the new and the pop. With excellent curation and two spaces, upstairs and down, there’s always something on that’s worth seeing here. Rua Estados Unidos 1494, Jardim Paulista (4306 4306/zippergaleria.com.br).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Pinheiros Galeria Estação Gallery director Vilma Eid’s focus is on the cream of Brazilian popular art, displaying a collection of fascinating works, including sculpture and painting by artists such as José Antônio da Silva and Nuca. Books and local crafts are also for sale.

Rua Ferreira de Araújo 625, Pinheiros (3813 7253/galeriaestacao.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am-3pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Logo In a versatile white space with a basement area that means two shows can run concurrently, Galeria Logo is a favourite with the skate/ graffiti/meeja crowd, and got off to a flying start when it opened in 2011 with a series of ambitious, large-scale shows. We particularly like Walter Nomura’s complex paintings and Flávio Samelo’s striking photographs.

Rua Artur de Azevedo 401, Pinheiros (3062 2381/galerialogo.com). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat.

Choque Cultural This unpretentious, influential, cutting-edge gallery is dedicated to Brazilian urban art from graffiti artists to skateboard designers and printmakers. Rua Medeiros de Albuquerque 250, Vila Madalena (3061 2365/choquecultural.com.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Fri; 1-6pm Sat. DOC Galeria This dynamic little gallery upstairs from Post 6 bar specialises in photography, running the Mostra, Vila Madalena’s annual photo festival, as well as a series of workshops and events.

Highly recommended. Rua Aspicuelta 662, Vila Madalena (3938 0130/docgaleria.com. br). Open 11am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am2pm Sat..

Central Galeria With a mission to discover some of the talent emerging from São Paulo’s art schools, the gallery represents a varied line of young artists.

Rua Mourato Coelho 751, Vila Madalena (2645 4480/centralgaleriadearte.com).

Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Eduardo Fernandes Don’t be intimidated by the dark, high wall that faces the street in front of this gallery. Ring the bell, and you’ll be greeted by smiling staff and led to the modern gallery space out back. Wander between two exhibition rooms and the gallery’s permanent collection, contemplating contemporary works by impressive international names.

Rua Harmonia 145, Vila Madalena (3032 6380/galeriaeduardohfernandes.com).

Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards.

Fortes Vilaça Even an art ignoramus will feel the quality at this gallery, one of the most established Brazilian names on the international circuit. They’ve got some big names on the roster: São Paulo graffiti stars OsGemeos, the world-renowned installation artist Ernesto Neto, and Beatriz Milhazes and her beautiful, colourful paintings. Rua Fradique Coutinho 1500, Vila Madalena (3032 7066/fortesvilaca. com.br). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards.

Other location Galpão Fortes Vilaça (warehouse), Rua James Holland 71, Barra Funda (3392 3942). Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri.; 10am-6pm Sat. No credit cards..

Galeria Raquel Arnaud Curator Raquel Arnaud specialised in geometric abstraction at her São Paulo gallery Gabinete de Arte since 1980. In March 2011, she moved to this larger three-storey gallery, in which the lower ground floor is a permanent archive for her collection of works by the Constructivist artist Sergio Camargo. Rua Fidalga 125, Vila Madalena (3083 6322/raquelarnaud.com). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat. No credit cards.

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Shopping & Style Shopping malls

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Cidade Jardim There are more malls in São Paulo than you could visit in a lifetime, but only one for which Kate Moss serves as the public face, having recently bumped Sarah Jessica Parker off the bill. The lavishly swish mall, with its picturesque roof terrace, features Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Montblanc, Red Valentino and Brazilian designer Carlos Miele. Don’t miss Chocolat du Jour, possibly the best chocolate store in town. Taxi, private car or helicopter are the only means of arrival allowed. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (3552 1000/ shoppingcidadejardimjhsf.com.br).

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun, holidays. Hours at food kiosks and restaurants vary.

Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, one of Avenida Paulista’s most famous landmarks. This David Libeskind project from 1958 is innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops. Revamped after a fire broke out in 1978, the complex is home to the bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura, and to one of São Paulo’s best cinemas, Cine Livraria Cultura. The digital clock and thermometer that crown the building are a landmark and a daily reference for countless paulistanos. Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (3179 0000/ccn.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7am10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat, Sun & holidays.

Galeria do Rock A haven for rockers and emos, affectionately known as ‘emo-land’ by city satirists, the Galeria do Rock is a collection of 450 shops, 190 of them dedicated to the various facets of the music scene. CDs, vinyl, T-shirts, accessories, flags and posters – you name it, it’s here and it’s ready to rock.

The bottom floor is dedicated solely to hip hop and ‘black music’, as Brazilians term it. The prices are lower than at equivalent speciality shops in other areas around the city; and on Saturdays, a battalion of teenage rockers invades.

Rua 24 de Maio 62, Centro (3337 6277). Metrô 3, República. Open 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat. JK Iguatemi With its slick, highshine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri, Ici Brasserie, Spot) and predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop

Multi-culti Espaço Zebra

Transforming a former warehouse into an all-in-one art gallery, studio, bar and weekend hang-out, the artist Renato Larini is the creative mind behind Espaço Zebra, a welcoming, eclectic space in the heart of Bixiga that he runs with his partner Néli Pereira. Drop in on a Friday night for beers and an ever-changing lineup of homemade bar snacks as you peruse Larini’s photographs and collages on the walls, and admire his exquisite line of wooden furniture, dreamed up on a case-by-case basis and made from salvaged boxes of Norwegian salt cod.

Rua Major Diogo 237, Bixiga (3105 5171/espacozebra. com). Open 2-8pm Fri; 5-11pm Sat. and its brother brand, Topman.

Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/ jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary.

Market Place This is a small, bijou mall that goes for quality, not quantity of stores. A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, it also has an excellent food court with a huge variety of options. Go for baby back ribs at Outback, check out Mango’s Smoothies and Brigaderia, and don’t miss the shops Le Lis Blanc and Calvin Klein.

Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan 902, Santo Amaro (3048 7000/marketplace. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Pátio Higienópolis Located on a pleasantly leafy boulevard in this lovely upmarket neighbourhood, this

mall is at first hard to distinguish from the mansions and 1950s residential buildings around it. It’s popular for its branch of the high-end pizza joint Bar des Arts, and brands like Calvin Klein underwear and L’Occitane.

Avenida Higienópolis 618, Higienópolis (3823 2300/patiohigienopolis.com.br).

Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Pátio Paulista The largest mall on Avenida Paulista is home to chains like Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering.

The sleek interior appeals to Avenida Paulista businessmen, primarily for midday trips to the food court, while kids flock to its small three-screen movie theatre. Rua Treze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 1100/shoppingpaulista. com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Markets Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da Liberdade) This weekly fair has been going since 1975, and remains one of São Paulo’s best loved Sunday passeios.

Its 240 stalls mostly compete for your stomach, with a vast range of Japanese and Chinese fast-food treats on offer at a reasonable price. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Melona ‘creamsicles’ – a curious and delicious South Korean ice-cream phenomenon – have become synonymous with Liberdade, and are available in most grocery stores and some restaurants.

Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun. Feira de Artes, Cultura e Lazer da Praça Benedito Calixto Surrounded by gift and furniture shops, this Saturday market sells bric-à-brac as well as antique furniture – do stay on your guard, as many goods are copies – vinyl, clothes and jewellery.

It’s busiest in the afternoons, when live music, chorinho, kicks in from 2.30 to 6.30pm, and a buzzing gay scene spills onto the pavements outside some of the square’s bars and cafés. Vendors’ stalls are up early and stand well into the afternoon, but try to get there before 4pm. Praça Benedito Calixto, Pinheiros (pracabeneditocalixto.com.br). Open 8am-7pm Sat. Feira da República Running continuously since 1956, this openair centre has 600 stands and a wide selection of food, including Japanese yakisoba; acarajé, the deep-fried Bahian shrimp treat; and common or garden hot dogs. There is also a large open-air gallery where local artists sell paintings. Praça da República, República. Metrô 3, República. Open 9am-5pm Sat, Sun. Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying an incredibly colourful array of fruit and vegetables. There’s an abundance of native fruits, as well as exotic offerings from Asia. Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. The famous bacalhau (Portuguese-style salt cod), with its aroma of olive oil and a meltin-your-mouth quality, is a Mercadão favourite. It can be tried in the form of a pastry at Hocca Bar, or bought at a number of shops in the labyrinthine market. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/ mercadomunicipal.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

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30/01/14 13:19

Film Kind of a big deal

Will Ferrell has been the king of goofball American comedy for nearly 20 years. Since his seven-year stint on NBC’s Saturday Night Live, the California-born writer-performer has starred in several of the biggest comedy movies of recent years. He’s donned glittery Spandex as ice skater Chazz Michael Michaels in Blades of Glory, searched for Santa in festive classic Elf and gone streaking after a beer bong binge in Old School.

There’s an OTT macho-ness running through many of his characters, but in person Ferrell is calm and softly spoken, pondering his answers as if he’s been asked to work out the square root of pi. So it’s hard to square the man himself with his most famous creation: bombastic news anchor Ron Burgundy. Nine years after its release, Anchorman still has a huge following, spawning quote-a-long screenings and tons of merchandise (you can even sting your nostrils with ‘Sex Panther’ aftershave,

What was different about Anchorman 2?

‘Well, philosophically speaking, Adam [McKay, Anchorman co-writer and director] and I were generally against sequels. It didn’t interest us. But Anchorman just kept getting more and more of a cult following. And I remember seeing George Clooney or Brad Pitt doing press for the hundredth Ocean’s Eleven movie and I thought: Maybe we should do a sequel. Those guys make sequels, they don’t get criticised!’

Clooney and Pitt are dramatic actors, though, and you’ve only taken on a couple of less goofy roles. Would you like to do more serious parts?

‘Now that I haven’t done one in a while a lot of journalists say, “I’ve really liked your dramatic work, are you going to do more?” When you do one, though, the same people say, “How do you feel about those who say you’re just looking to be taken seriously?”

You were just asking me why I don’t do more! So it’s damned if you do, damned if you don’t.

I’m constantly keeping my eyes open, but you never know if it’s the right thing.’

‘I remember seeing George Clooney doing press for the 100th Ocean’s Eleven movie and I thought, we should do a sequel’ if you wish). It’s this loyal following that has made Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues the most highly anticipated comedy of the year.

Anchorman 2 is the first sequel you’ve made, but not the first you’ve been offered: you turned down $29 million to make a second Elf movie. Why? ‘The script was terrible, even for $29 million. Seriously, I was in a position where that movie was not going to be good, and I would’ve been stuck in an interview situation like this where I would have had to say, “I couldn’t say no, it was $29 million,” and I don’t want to do movies for that reason.’

Can we talk about your butt? You’ve whipped it out in a few of your movies…

‘I am the Lady Gaga of comedy. Or she is the Will Ferrell of pop music.’

Do you have to work hard to keep it in shape?

‘No. It’s naturally perfect.’

Would you consider doing fullfrontal?

‘I would, if the circumstance dictated it. But full-frontal’s a whole other ball game. Full-frontal’s very revealing.

The most revealing!’

Ron Burgundy doesn’t get naked, but he does say a lot

Gemma LaMana/press image

Broadcasting legend Ron Burgundy is back in Anchorman 2. Ben Williams speaks to actor Will Ferrell, the man behind the ‘stache

Stay classy, NY Ferrell takes a bite out of the Big Apple in ‘Anchorman 2’ of inappropriate things. He’s ultimately lovable, though. Why do people warm to him?

‘He’s not hateful. He’s insecure and blustery and comes off like he’s pompous, but he’s really just constantly seeking approval. He was chauvinistic, but he’s learned not to be now. He’s not racist, but he’s ignorant and misinformed – he just doesn’t know the rules: [adopts Burgundy’s voice] “Oh, that’s not what you’re supposed to say? I beg your pardon! Thank you!” And then when he tries to fix things he makes them even worse.’

Anchorman is set in the ’70s, this sequel in the ’80s. Is there something naturally funny about that era?

‘It seems ridiculous when we look back. As I assume the 2010s will in 2040. People will be sitting in spacesuits going, “Can you believe people used to wear that?” But

we didn’t set out to make a movie about that time period, it was ideaspecific. The first movie’s about sexism, and the first time a woman worked with a man in the newsroom was during that era. Then 1980 is a pivotal year: the launch of CNN, of ESPN, of mainstream cable TV – the perfect place for the next chapter.’

You performed a song at the Academy Awards about comedy being snubbed by the judging panel. Should there be an Oscar for comedy?

‘No, because I don’t know if there’s an Oscar-worthy comedy every year. But in those years when there is an exceptional comedy, I just wish the governing body would be flexible enough to put it in the same category as the rest of the films.’

Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues (Tudo por um Furo) is released on 28 February.

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30/01/14 13:22

Reviews American Hustle

film e of th h t n o m

Can’t knock the hustle Lawrence (left) shines as Bale’s reckless wife in David O. Russell’s latest triumphant film

politicians, is certainly knotty enough.

But ultimately story is secondary to Russell’s delicious detailing of character and milieu.

A brilliant, wordless opening scene, in which Bale applies a vole-like toupee to his bald pate with heartbreaking care, sets the tone for a film as much about personal disguises as professional ones.

It’s also a love story, oddly affecting in its coldheartedness, between two falsely confident tricksters: Rosenfeld is alternately wooed and wound up by slippery Sydney (a fierce Amy Adams), as his garish Jersey-girl wife Rosalyn (Jennifer Lawrence) watches from the sidelines. Wounded but powerfully deranged, belting out ‘Live and Let Die’ in her literally

gilded suburban cage, Lawrence is entirely extraordinary here, improving on the performance that won her an Oscar for Russell’s last film. Long may this collaboration continue: in her, he’s found the ideal firestarter for his brand of lively, fraying human comedy. Guy Lodge

Film

In the six-year absence that followed 2004’s delirious I Heart Huckabees, David O. Russell acquired a taste for studio filmmaking – but that’s not quite the same as going mainstream.

The Fighter and Silver Linings Playbook played as exciting experiments to see just how much of Russell’s clattering, chaotic creative sensibility could survive the Hollywood formulae of the boxing movie and rom-com.

A lot, it turns out, and American Hustle, his whirling, wilful take on the con caper, is no different.

‘Some of this actually happened,’ quips an introductory title card, as the film launches into a fictionalised, digressive account of the FBI’s notorious Abscam sting of the late 1970s.

The plot, in which Christian Bale plays Irving Rosenfeld, a dopey New Jersey dry-cleaner moonlighting as an art forger, coerced by sleazy federal agent Richie DiMaso (a poodle-permed Bradley Cooper) into a scam to bring down several high-ranking

sony pictures/press image

Dir. David O. Russell. USA, 2013.

Bradley Cooper, Jennifer Lawrence, Christian Bale. 129 mins.

American Hustle (Trapaça) is released on 24 January.

Gemma LaMana/press image

Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues

Legendary ensemble Ferrell’s riotous news team returns to take on cable TV

Dir. Adam McKay. USA, 2013.

Will Ferrell, Christina Applegate, Harrison Ford. 119 mins.

It should have been the top story, but instead it’s been bumped to the back of the hour: ‘…And in other news, the Anchorman sequel is

perfectly adequate.’ Yes, Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues is not the disaster some feared it might be, but neither is it the endlessly quotable, deliciously idiotic follow-on so many of us were optimistically anticipating. This may be the first time in history that the marketing campaign has proven more entertaining than the movie itself.

The story is unnecessarily convoluted, following San Diego’s finest news source Ron Burgundy (Will Ferrell) and his nemesisturned-muse Veronica Corningstone (Christina Applegate) as they battle, break up, reunite, and navigate the new world of 24-hour reporting.

It’s a joy welcoming Ron back into our lives, and it’s Ferrell’s fierce, edge-of-excessive performance that once again holds the movie together.

There’s more satirical bite this time around – the depiction of thinly disguised Rupert Murdoch clone Allenby (Josh Lawson) may be the biggest fuck-you to a media mogul

since Citizen Kane – but otherwise it’s business as usual. Yet somewhere in the plot-heavy mid-section, Anchorman 2 crosses that fine line between enjoyably effortless and just plain lazy.

There are giggles throughout – a hefty percentage of them provided

by Steve Carell as congenital moron Brick Tamland – but precious few big laughs (no ‘Go fuck yourself, San Diego’ here). Too many of the gags involve racial misunderstandings that might have worked three decades ago, and too many talented cast members – notably Paul Rudd and Kristen Wiig – are squandered.

It all culminates with a high-wattage celebrity dust-up which is amusing in a count-the-stars sort of way, but feels (like much of this pleasant but inessential sequel) more dutiful than inspired. Tom Huddleston Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues (Tudo Por um Furo) is released on 28 February.

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04/02/14 15:26

paris filmes/press image

The Wolf of Wall Street

Wolf in sheep’s clothing DiCaprio steals the show as the swindling Belfort

Film

Dir. Martin Scorsese. USA, 2013.

Leonardo DiCaprio, Jonah Hill, Matthew McConaughey. 179 mins.

The director. The subject matter.

The epic running time. All the signs

pointed to real-life stock-market story The Wolf of Wall Street being classic, old-school Martin Scorsese: drugs, swearing, big speeches, bigger performances, a spot of social critique and lashings of classic rock. But while many

of these elements are present, something unexpected has snuck in alongside them: huge, unashamedly crowd-pleasing laughs.

This is without doubt the funniest movie of Scorsese’s career – earlier efforts like The King of Comedy and After Hours may have been brilliant, but their chuckles were chillier and more unsettling. The Wolf of Wall Street plays modern tragedy as epic farce, reminding us just how much fun Scorsese can be when he’s in a playful mood.

It also proves – equally unexpectedly – that Leonardo DiCaprio can do comedy, too. He plays Jordan Belfort, an unscrupulous stock-market wizard who, in his early twenties, became a multi-multimillionaire by fleecing Americans out of their hard-earned investments.

Belfort – along with his goofy-toothed sidekick Donnie Azoff (Jonah Hill) – lived high on the hog for the best part of a decade, a constant roundelay of booze, yachts, hookers and hard drugs. That is, until the authorities came a-knocking…

Predictably, The Wolf of Wall Street is more flash than substance.

Scorsese never digs too deeply under the skin of these reprehensible playboy douchebags, and there are times where the swooping photography, smash-and-grab editing and toe-tapping soundtrack conspire to almost – almost – make us like them. But when the film’s cylinders are firing, it’s impossible not to be dragged along. The big set-pieces – a coke-fuelled lecture from an unscrupulous Matthew McConaughey, a squirm-inducing encounter between DiCaprio and Joanna Lumley on a London park bench, a Mediterranean cruise that goes horribly wrong and, most memorably, a grandiose slapstick sequence involving a sports car and a fistful of vintage quaaludes – are among the most memorable of Scorsese’s career, rivalling Goodfellas for sheer vitality. The result may not be the most measured take on the ongoing financial crisis, but it is without doubt the most entertaining.

Tom Huddleston The Wolf of Wall Street (O Lobo de Wall Street) is released on 7 February.

Everyday

Michael Winterbottom (24 Hour Party People, A Mighty Heart) spent five years, on and off, filming this fictional portrait of a mother of four, Karen (Shirley Henderson), coping with the imprisonment of her husband, Ian (John Simm), for a minor crime of which we never hear the details. But this isn’t a crime story or a sketch of life in jail: it’s a tender study of a fractured family adapting to new circumstances and is not so dissimilar in temperament and rhythm to Wonderland and Genova – Winterbottom’s previous collaborations with the writer Laurence Coriat. Wonderland, especially, is evoked by the presence of another poignant score by Michael Nyman, although both those earlier films offered a similar – and similarly affecting – cycle of fracture and renewal as the one we experience here.

As each of the main characters in Everyday subtly ages (or not so subtly in the case of the children), we watch as Karen occasionally visits her husband in prison with the kids in tow – meetings loaded

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Dir. Michael Winterbottom. UK, 2012. Shirley Henderson, John Simm, Shaun Kirk. 94 mins.

Rain or shine Henderson (right) tries to steer her family through the ups and downs of her husband’s imprisonment

with tension and sadness. Back at home, everyday events (meals, going to school, shifts at the pub) are coloured by absence and strain.

The unusually extended shooting period and Winterbottom’s decision to cast siblings as the kids make for a strangely intimate and powerful depiction of time passing and the

peaks and troughs of childhood.

Winterbottom keeps things quietly observational and in-the-moment: we don’t know, for example, how long Ian’s sentence is, and, at one point, his apparent release turns out to be just for a few hours. This fragmentary and unimposing style of storytelling – coupled

with exemplary performances of bottled-up fear, anger and sorrow from Henderson and Simm – means that it’s all the more powerful when the film’s climax turns out to be so moving and affecting. Dave Calhoun Everyday (Todos os Dias) is released on 24 January.

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Gay & Lesbian Out in style Moda/Diversidade Bars

Listings

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Clubs Blue Space The tea dance at this spot culminates with the funniest drag shows in town – and some of the hottest go-go boys. Most of the stage productions, which have inspired a cult following on YouTube, are so elaborate they could teach Cher a thing or two about costume changes. The crowd is mixed: postadolescents share space with muscle marys. Rua Brigadeiro Galvão 723, Barra Funda (3666 1616/bluespace.com. br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. Admission R$20-$28.

Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings.

The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35.

Danger Head downtown and prepare yourself for a hardcore experience.

There’s a live, 20-minute sex show at 2am in which three couples of varying sexuality do the do. They switch places on stage, giving everyone an excellent view. The crowd is a tad rough’n’tumble, but if you go to the dark room or have a couple of extra sips, you may not even notice. Rua Rego Freitas 470, Centro (3211 0371/dangerdanceclub.blogspot. com). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm6am. Admission R$18.

Espaço Muss Can’t get up to Salvador?

Head downtown to this crowded, steamy spot for a sweet taste of Afro-Brazil. The tiny dancefloor is packed wall-to-wall

ffwMAG!/PRESS IMAGE

How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

Blurring the line between fashion and art by showing a curated series of photographs from the edgy Brazilian magazine, ffwMAG!, Moda & Diversidade (Fashion & Diversity) delves into sexual, gender and ethnic diversity. Curated by São Paulo Fashion Week cocreator Paolo Borges, the exhibition brings Brazil’s rainbow nation of ethnicity into focus in the subsection Liberdade (Freedom), which celebrates the myriad beauty of Brazil’s people, and in images from fashion shoots, including one featuring the renowned trans model Lea T. Moda & Diversidade is at the Museu da Diversidade (museudadiversidade.com.br) inside Metrô República station, and opens from 10am8pm, Tue-Sun, until April 2014. FREE with men jamming to live samba and DJ spun axé, hip hop and funk carioca. Rua Bento Freitas 66, República (3361 4160/ espacomuss.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open 8pm-late Wed; 9pm-late Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$15.

Flex In the war for the hottest shirtless boys in town, Flex is fighting with the big guns: a huge dancefloor, a booming sound system, go-go dancers to spice it all up and an open-air space for dancing and chilling out. Despite all its efforts, however, the club hasn’t managed to lure all the pretty boys away from The Week. Still, the crowd is young and fun. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767, Barra Funda (3612 4402/ flexclub.com.br) Open midnight-8am Sat. Admission R$25-$45.

The L Club In this girls’ club, you get all sorts: from Ellen DeGeneres and Portia de Rossi types to everything in between. On Friday’s, there’s live MPB in the outside lounge area, but the main dance floor rocks with tribal house. Rua Luís Murat 370, Vila Madalena (2604 3393/thelclub.

com.br). Open 11pm-6am Fridays only.

Admission R$15-$20.

The Week This party is what every other club (gay or straight) is trying to copy. It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with summerseason clones in Rio and Florianópolis, and an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/theweek.com.br).

Open midnight-8.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$11; caipirinha R$21; cover R$35-$70.

Tunnel With exuberant music in the main room and vintage pop on the lower level, this party is full of young boys new to the gay scene. It gets a bit crowded, but there’s always the restaurant upstairs for a break and a snack. Don’t get too drunk, though: the place is full of stairs. Rua dos Ingleses 355, Bela Vista (3285 0246/ tunnel.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro.

Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$20.

O Gato One of the oldest joints in the area, O Gato is a mixture between bar and club. Thursdays are for romance, with a live band and background music.

On Fridays and Saturdays, both floors come into play, with a live band and DJ on the first floor, and electronic music on the second. Come and try your luck.

Rua Frei Caneca 462, Consolação (3256 3656/ogato.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10pm-6am Thu-Sat. Prices can of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$15.

Vermont República This traditional boteco is a long-time gay institution. At night, it’s mostly the laydeez soaking up the pheromone-charged atmosphere.

Pop ditties spew from the speakers until a live band covers cheesy, emotive hits from MPB muses like Ana Carolina and Simone. Avenida Doutor Vieira de Carvalho 10, República (3222 5848/ vermontrepublica.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 6am-1am Mon-Thu; 6am-2am Fri-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$12; cover R$3-$4.

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This lively café-cum-bar, recently relocated to a larger space with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/ freycafe.com.br). Open 4pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15.

GYM Academia Gaviões This threelevel, 24-hour fitness center serves as a pre-clubbing must for the gym bunnies and muscle marys. The monthly fee includes weight training, aerobics classes and karate lessons. Rua 13 de Maio 812, Bela Vista (3285 3269/ academiagavioes.com.br). Open 24hrs daily. Other locations throughout the city. Admission R$190 monthly.

SAUNA Thermas Lagoa Do you go gaga for the go-go boys at your favourite nightclub? Here, some of the choicest hunks around will be at your disposal. Rua Borges Lagoa 287, Vila Clementino (5573 9689/thermaslagoa. com.br). Metrô 1, Santa Cruz. Open 2pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 2pm-2am Fri; 2pm-1am Sat; 2pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$40-R$50.

SPORT SP Gay Bikers Brazil’s first gay cycling group does weekly weekend bike rides around town and sometimes outside the city. The only requirements: be over 18, have your own bicycle, and wear a helmet. If it rains, the ride is cancelled.

Meet 10am Sun, Greengrocer fruit shop, Praça Cordeiro de Farias, Consolação (sp-gay-bikers.blogspot.com). FREE

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Music & Nightlife

Rodrigo Schmidt/press image

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Domestic goods

Architects of the hometown sound (from left to right) local rappers Emicida, Criolo and vocalist Tulipa Ruiz take their talent to Cine Joia’s stage

Dip in for a taste of local music talent with this Brazil-heavy schedule of shows, says CM Gorey Perhaps best known for its impeccable indie credentials – as well as for its lovely, vintagecinema vibe and increasingly, for the club nights held there – the live venue Cine Joia has earned a solid reputation, since it opened in late-2011, for featuring a steady influx of the latest European or US underground darlings. But a string of weekly acts set to run till the end of February celebrates Brazilian artists, featuring a formidable bill of SP hip hop, along with exemplary performers of MPB and samba. Uncharacteristic as it is for the venue to trot out national acts with such regularity, this lineup is worth your attention.

And with homegrown prices to

match the homegrown talent – Cine Joia’s ambitious internationalism sometimes leads to eye-watering ticket prices – the prices for these gigs start from R$40.

Cine Joia’s programme, on this occasion, is part of the 2014 Heineken SummerStage Festival (see the full schedule at summerstage.com.br), which is promoting more than 140 events taking place through 6 March, at other clubs Brazil-wide: in Ilhabela, Rio de Janeiro, Florianópolis and Trancoso, Bahia. There are also events at São Paulo’s dance music temple, D.Edge, which hosts a range of international names such as the DJ duo Benoit & Sergio (22 February), creators of electronic pop infused with vocal melodies influenced by bands like Pavement and Roxy Music.

On 24 January, the festival’s first showcase of paulistano hip hop stars Emicida, bringing his

street-tough-with-a-conscience rhymes from his first full-length studio album, last year’s O Glorioso Retorno de Quem Nunca Esteve Aqui (The Glorious Return of the One Who Never Was Here). A week later, Criolo – the genre-bending MC, who now sings as much as he rhymes – headlines a pair of dates on 31 January and 1 February.

Having made a name for himself with 2011’s depressing-but-lovely hometown anthem, ‘Não Existe Amor em SP’ (Love Doesn’t Exist in SP), his shows have achieved notoriety for eschewing shortcuts, fleshing out his studio tracks with a full backing band. Rising star and Brasília transplant Flora Matos, who broke into the scene by way of her glossy dance cut ‘Pretin’, joins the ex-Pentágono reggae-styled paulistano rapper Rael on 21 February.

Turning from street grit to the soft and sumptuous, the skillful

vocalist Tulipa Ruiz – whose 2012 record, Tudo Tanto (Everything, So Much), brought a new face and a progressively artful sound to MPB – performs on 13 February; while a week earlier, the most traditionallyminded show of the series comes by way of carioca band Casuarina on 7 February, deftly recreating samba and choro tunes from the Brazilian canon.

Finishing up on 28 February, just in time for Carnival, the 13-piece Bloco do Sargento Pimenta, one of Rio’s most celebrated and funtime street blocos (see Carnival feature), marry Beatles hits to bloco arrangements, complete with over-the-top Sgt. Pepper’s-era costumes and a backbeat of samba percussion.

Shows are at 12.30am at Cine Joia, Praça Carlos Gomes 82, Sé (3231 3705/cinejoia.tv). Tickets R$40-$90.

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Book review

Sounds and Colours Brazil can be ordered directly from the publishers at soundsandcolours.com; the full CD can be heard at j.mp/sacbraz.

Illustrious The multi-instrumentalist samba innovator and legend Tom Zé

Album review Bruce Springsteen

New low Bruce’s duets come up short

The celebrity-duet trend – in which artists cover their own back catalogue with the help of famous pals – came and mercifully went a few years back, hitting its apparent nadir with Ray Davies and Mumford & Sons conspiring to murder ‘Days’. But just when you thought it was safe, Bruce Springsteen inexplicably decides to revisit one of his loveliest, most politically piercing songs – 1995’s hushed acoustic hymn to economic migrancy, ‘The Ghost of Tom Joad’ – in the caterwauling company of Rage Against the Machine’s resident grumpy adolescent Tom Morello.

The result is seven turgid minutes of bellowing and shredding – think Nickelback meets Woody Guthrie. The rest of High Hopes is more pleasant, but no less dispensible. It’s a ragbag of covers – a jangly take on The Saints’s ‘Just Like Fire Would’, a droning album highlight in Suicide’s ‘Dream Baby Dream’– and offcuts, many of which suffer from the same booming, happy-clappy overproduction that marred the recent ‘Wrecking Ball’.

There are highlights: joyous strumathon ‘Frankie Fell in Love’ sees Bruce in a goofy mood, while ‘American Skin’ is an old live favourite treated tastefully, and ‘The Wall’ is a pompous but heartfelt ode to Jersey rocker and Vietnam casualty Walter Cichon. But overall

this feels like the Boss on autopilot: big chords, big band, lashings of religious imagery but – in contrast with his ecstatically received live performance here in São Paulo last September – a lack of real soul.

Tom Huddlestone

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High Hopes (Columbia)

Music & Nightlife

It’s difficult to capture the feel of a culture as varied and rich as Brazil’s within the scope of less than 200 pages, but Sound and Colours Brazil – a self-styled ‘part-book, part-magazine, part-fanzine’ – is an ambitious attempt to show the multifaceted nature of the country’s regions and subcultures through a rapid-paced study of its music, film, visual arts and literature by more than 50 contributors. It also comes with a 20-track compilation CD. So does it succeed? On the one hand, it does an admirable job trying to explain specific scenes (SP, Rio, Belo Horizonte, Salvador,

Recife and Belém) by showing the evolution of genres via engaging first-person accounts, such as New York accordian player Rob Curto’s discovery of the North-Eastern forró sound and his journey back to its most famous practicioner, Luiz Gonzaga; and Rodrigo Brandão’s retelling of his and São Paulo’s exposure to hip hop, which originated with a screening of the 1984 American film Beat Street in a grubby cinema on the SP outskirts.

On the other hand, the book tries to to be all things to everyone – its second half contains microexplorations of important cultural figures like writer Jorge Amado and painter Candido Portinari who deserve more than the few allotted pages. But the informal tone serves the collection well in its goal to be a helpful, but brief, reference source.

The book’s centrepiece, for example, a handy guide to 20 influential Brazilian albums, deftly illustrates these records’ origins, receptions and relevance within their related stylistic movements.

And despite the shortcomings of the excessively groove-oriented CD, it provides a nice wide-angle snapshot of current national artists. CM Gorey

Pedro Gutierres/Sounds and Colours/press image

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Sounds and Colours Brazil

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Nightclubs Raise the rooftop Pop-up bar How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots.

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Music venues

Music & Nightlife

Eclectic

Electronica Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s house-turnedclub, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. TDJs spin everything from electro rock and ’80s disco to house and indie rock. Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92.blogspot. com). Open 10.30pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices pint of beer R$14; caipirinha R$18; cover R$50.

Clash Club The young, pretty crowd

Classical PRESS IMAGE

Alberta #3 The dancefloor at this hip, non-poser downtown joint could be jumping to anything from indie to disco – so if you’re in the mood for rock, check who’s on the decks before rolling up or you might be surprised by wall-to-wall MPB. Stylishly decorated and with a haphazard, beatnik vibe, Alberta #3 might be small, but its three-floor split works well, with a busy dancefloor down in the basement.

Avenida São Luís 272, República (3152 5299/alberta3.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$4; caipirinha R$12; cover R$15-$35 (after 10pm).

Bar Secreto More of a club than a bar, this candle-lit room is decked out with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, hip hop and electronic. The exclusive club (you can’t call – contact is only via email) caters to fashionistas and hipsters. Rua Álvaro Anes 97, Pinheiros (barsecreto. com.br). Open 11pm-6am Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$13; caipirinha R$20; minimum spend R$20-$100.

Caos In a compact space on Baixo Augusta, Caos crams in fun-loving customers, bumping elbows at the bar or packed tight on the dance floor, eclectic DJ sets, and more – well, tat, with walls and shelves brimming with film posters, telephones and door knobs. Rua Augusta 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584. com.br). Open 8pm-late Mon-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinha R$16.50; minimum spend R$30 (Thu-Sat).

Lions This club in a 1950s building has a slightly exclusive air, with high ceilings and decor inspired by 19th-century gentlemen’s clubs, right down to the stuffed animal heads on the walls. But the real star of the show is the terrace, shared by smokers and non-smokers alike, from which you can gaze over at the Catedral da Sé. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub. com.br). Open midnight-late Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; cocktails from R$31; cover R$40-$130.

Tapas Another nonchalantly cool hangout on the Augusta strip, Tapas is a two-storey bar with DJs and live bands packing out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of ages and musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação (tapasclub.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-R$15.

In another chunk of sponsored SP nightlife, this limitedtime bar on the roof of Edifício Planalto, designed by the architect João Artacho Jurado, is playing host to some of the city’s best club parties as part of its eclectic lineup.

The slim menu features only juice, water and pricey R$10 beers (350 ml); but there are 25th-floor views across Centro to make up for it. Guests for parties that include Selvagem (2 February) and Voodoohop (15 February) need to get their names on the list via the event’s Facebook page. Heineken Up On The Roof is at Rua Maria Paula 279, Bela Vista (Facebook: heinekenupontheroof). Open 4-10pm Fri; 2-10pm Sat and Sun, 24 Jan–28 Feb. at this swish, ultra–modern club gets seriously animated to the latest electronic music. Rua Barra Funda 969, Barra Funda (3661 1500/clashclub.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. Open midnightlate Tues, Fri, Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; cover R$50-$60.

D.Edge D.Edge is seriously dedicated to electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace. The crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours. Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda Open midnight-7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$15; cover R$20-$80.

Indie & rock Astronete When it first opened in 2007, Astronete quickly became known for its varied musical schedule that drew a young-ish, tattooed, Jack Daniel’s swilling crowd. But after temporarily closing its doors, the celebrated hipster dive reopened in 2012 at a new address, keeping the same dark atmosphere, ’60s B-movie décor and mixed schedule of parties. The astral gang continues to crank it up, usually with one foot firmly planted in rough-edged, garage-minded rock ‘n’ roll. Rua Augusta 335, Consolação (3151 4568/astronete. tumblr.com). Open 10pm-5am Thu-Sat. Prices pint of beer R$13; caipirinha R$16; cover R$15-R$50 Thu and Sat.

Funhouse Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club. Behind the curtain, you’ll find a little black box of a dancefloor where they might be blaring electro dance music, pop anthems, hard rock, or funk carioca. Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/ funhouse.com.br). Open 10pm-late ThuSat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50.

Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor, although other genres get the occasional look-in on the programme, too. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/ infernoclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

MPB & Latin Serralheria Espaço Cultural Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, this nofrills venue in a small warehouse in Lapa has a laid-back vibe and super-friendly owners. Blending bar and exhibition space, you’ll find photography, video art and sculpture on display in the covered outdoor bar area, while eclectic live music sets are hosted in the cosier indoor space.

Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 0124/ escapeserralheria.org). Open 9pm-2am Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10.

Sala São Paulo One of the most celebrated halls in Latin America, Sala São Paulo was built in a Louis XVI-style 1938 train station and redesigned as a cultural centre and concert hall. Praça Júlio Prestes 16, Luz (3367 9500/salasaopaulo.art. br). Open box office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri or before concert; 10am-4.30pm Sat on performance days; 2hrs before concert Sun. Prices R$20-$110.

Jazz All of Jazz One of the city’s oldest jazz clubs, All of Jazz pays homage to the genre’s past but still leaves room for budding artists from Mondays to Thursdays – a contrast from its more experienced performers on the weekend.

Rua João Cachoeira 1366, Itaim Bibi (3849 1345/allofjazz.com.br). Open 8pm-late Mon-Fri; 9pm-late Sat and holidays. Prices small bottle of beer R$9; caipirinha R$17; cover R$15-$35.

Bourbon Street Music Club This New Orleans-style bar is big with upmarket paulistanos, who come to hear live jazz and blues every night. Rua dos Chanés 127, Moema (5095 6100/bourbonstreet. com.br). Open 8pm Tue, Wed; 9pm Thu-Sat; 8pm Sun. Prices chope R$8.80; caipirinha R$19; cover R$50-$80.

Casa de Francisca This tiny, rustic live music bar tucked away in Jardins has live jazz nightly. Rua José Maria Lisboa 190, Jardim Paulista (3052 0547/casadefrancisca.art.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro. Open 8pm-1am Tue-Sat; 9.30pm-12.30am Sun. Prices 355ml beer R$8; caipirinha R$12.50.

Jazz nos Fundos Dark, spartan and unpretentious, this bar is basically a hole-in-the-wall, but the music is excellent. The space hosts combos playing old standards or Afro-Cuban styles, and their word-of-mouth-only publicity keeps this one of the city’s best-kept secrets. Rua João Moura 1076, Pinheiros (3083 5975/jazznosfundos. net). Open 8pm-2.30am Tue-Sat; shows 10pm, 1am. Metrô 2, Sumaré. Prices cover R$13-$19; small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11.

Madeleine Musicians like playing this swish restaurant/bar, as it’s a pleasant space, with a high ceiling and even a mezzanine floor. Rua Aspicuelta 201, Vila Madalena (2936 0616/madeleine. com.br). Open 7pm-last client Tue-Sat. Shows 9.30pm. Prices cover R$17-$26 (minimum spend R$50 on Sat.); chope R$8.60; caipirinha R$16.90.

52 timeout.com/sao-paulo January/February 2014 760 MUSIC_30Jan_Bia.indd 52

30/01/14 13:28

Performance Curtain up on a brand new SP festival

Mirror, mirror Lithuanian director Oskaras Koršunovas takes a self-reflective look at Hamlet from all angles

Raynaud de Lage Christophe/press image

Drama connoisseurs and curious novices alike will be treated to a programme of free performances this March when São Paulo plays host to the first Mostra Internacional de Teatro de São Paulo (São Paulo International Theatre Festival) – or MITSP, for short – bringing a wide array of works from the contemporary international theatre scene to eight theatres across the city, including Auditório Ibirapuera and Centro Cultural São Paulo.

The festival, created by Antônio Araújo, director of the pioneering Teatro da Vertigem, and Guilherme Marques, general director of the Centro Internacional de Teatro

press image

From the classic to the controversial, São Paulo’s newest festival puts theatre centre stage, says Ana Cecília de Paula

Balancing act ‘Ali’ makes its Brazilian debut at the MITSP festival

Ecum, features eleven performances staged by renowned – and controversial – theatre companies from around the world, most of which are completely new to Brazilian audiences.

A troupe led by the Lithuanian director Oskaras Koršunovas, for example, who hails from a country with a strong dramatic arts tradition largely unknown in Brazil, debuts a modern version of Hamlet on the national stage (subtitled, naturally) as part of MITSP’s lineup.

In this version, the Prince of Denmark’s story takes place in a dressing room full of mirrors, stressing the dialogue’s notions of identity – the ‘to be, or not to be’ of Shakespeare’s famous work – and raising questions about the role of representation in theatre itself.

Besides such bold new takes on revered pieces, the programme also features more contemporary plays, including Romeo Castellucci’s provocative Sobre o Conceito da Face no Filho de Deus (On the Concept of the Face, Regarding the Son of God), which superimposes scatological images and belligerent themes on an artistic representation of Christ’s face. The work caused such offence during Parisian performances in 2011 that Christian protesters invaded the

stage, attacking the actors.

The festival also includes a Brazilian play that’s at the same time very international: De Repente, Fica Tudo Preto de Gente (Suddenly, It Gets Black with People) by Marcelo Evelin. In it, a cast of five actors from different countries come together in a scenario examining how a diverse group can merge into a collective unit as a crowd of people.

In addition to the shows, parallel events aim at encouraging public participation, including debates with drama critics and artists following each performance, and experimental scenography workshops.

And since the festival’s goal is to give exposure to plays and artists that are less well known in Brazil, the tickets are free – check the festival web site to find out how to get tickets for each show.

Despite this being the debut edition of MITSP, Araújo and Marques are so optimistic that they’ve already decided on the programme for the festival’s subsequent two years. With any luck, this will be the first of more to come.

MITSP takes place from 8 to 16 March in theatres across the city.

See the complete list of shows and locations at mitsp.org. FREE

January/February 2014 timeout.com/sao-paulo 53 780 PERFORMANCE_Bia_30Jan.indd 53

30/01/14 13:30

Football & World Cup 2014 After a forgettable 2013, SP’s teams look to the Paulistão championship for a new start, says Cecília Gianesi The 2013 Campeonato Brasileiro (‘Brasileirão’) will go down as a championship to forget for the major São Paulo sides. Amongst them, Santos secured the best place in the competition, finishing 7th despite the departure of Neymar, followed by São Paulo, which spent most of the season struggling to avoid relegation before a late surge propelled it to 9th place.

Starting out as serious favourites, Corinthians came in a disappointing 10th place, while Palmeiras lived up to expectations, winning Série B of the Brasileirão, and ensuring its return to Série A in 2014.

Portuguesa, meanwhile, narrowly escaped relegation, as two great Rio sides (Fluminense and Vasco) went down instead, only to be penalised four points for having played a suspended player in the last game, and relegated to Série B in place of Flu – a decision that is still being disputed in the courts.

To top the whole thing off, another off-the-pitch spat brought the season as a whole to a bitter end, when an all-out fight between supporters of Vasco da Gama and Atlético Paranaense in the championship’s last round produced violent – and embarrassing – images for a country poised to host the World Cup.

Football listings How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the matches of São Paulo’s major teams this month.

Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s always best to check before heading out to a match. Tickets can be purchased online at ingressofacil.com.br and futebolcard.com.br.

Thus, thanks to the poor performance by São Paulo’s teams in 2013, this year has got off to an atypical start. This time last year, and every year since 2002, at least two of the major paulista teams would be setting off on their way around South America in pursuit of the Copa Libertadores trophy – the main continental championship, which takes place in the first half of the year – and a ticket to the FIFA Club World Cup. But for the first time in 15 years, SP state doesn’t have a single team in the running.

With Libertadores out of the picture, the Campeonato Paulista, better known as the Paulistão is set to be the main competition for São Paulo teams during the first half of the season, rather than the pre-season warm up it usually is, which should mean a livelier state championship than we’ve seen in the last few years, with fuller and more focused squads.

In the wake of the departure of Corinthians coach Tite, the team welcomes Mano Menezes back for his second coaching stint – he had left in 2010 to train the Brazilian national side. The striker Pato, who has yet to prove himself a good investment for the team, will be looking to impress Menezes.

Palmeiras signed São Paulo defender Lúcio, who was kept out of the squad for disciplinary reasons throughout the second half of 2013, while Leandro Damião, still fighting for a spot on Felipão’s national side, went to Santos in the off-season’s biggest signing.

29 JANUARY Paulista: Santos vs.

Corinthians Damião plays his first derby in the presence of Santos’s supporters, up against Corinthians’s Mano Menezes, the man who has called him up to the Brazilian side in years past. 10pm, Vila Belmiro.

2 FEBRUARY Paulista: Palmeiras vs.

São Paulo This derby will see Lúcio face his former employer São Paulo, as the defender tries to prove that the side made a mistake when it let him walk in the offseason. 5pm, Pacaembu.

5 FEBRUARY Paulista: Corinthians vs. Bragantino Corinthians’s Pato, Romarinho, Sheik and co. will be hoping to return to the glory of last year’s Paulistão, which saw them dethrone Santos as state champions. 10pm, Pacaembu.

15 FEBRUARY Paulista: São Paulo vs.

Lucas Baptista/Futura Press

Sad state of affairs

Fresh fish Santos’s Leandro Damião is one of the Paulistão’s biggest arrivals

As it stands, the next few months look set to be an interminable wait for this year’s Campeonato Brasileiro, which kicks off in April – not to mention the rapidly approaching World Cup. But with

the Campeonato Paulista in greater focus, and familiar faces in new places, there is hope that supporters will have something to get excited about before we hear the World Cup starting whistle in June.

Portuguesa After being penalised in the Brasileirão for playing a disqualified player, Portuguesa hope to prove that they have the talent to remain among the top sides. 9pm, Morumbi.

16 FEBRUARY Paulista: Corinthians vs. Palmeiras These paulistano teams haven’t had the opportunity to savour the sweetness of victory or the bitterness of defeat at the hands of their biggest rivals for some time. This will be a chance for both sides to reopen some old wounds.

5pm, Pacaembu.

23 FEBRUARY Paulista: São Paulo vs.

Santos This match is set to be a duel between Ganso and Damião, who will both be fighting for one of the final spots on the Brazilian national team in this year’s World Cup. 5pm, Morumbi.

5 march Paulista: Palmeiras vs.

Portuguesa While Palmeiras wants the title to solidify its return to the elite of the Campeonato Brasileiro, Portuguesa looks to begin 2014 on a better foot than it left 2013. 10pm, Pacaembu.

Estádios de Futebol Pacaembu Praça Charles Miller, Pacaembu (3664 4650). Metrô 2, Clinicas. Tickets R$30-$120.

Morumbi Praça Roberto Gomes Pedrosa 1 (3749 8000). Tickets R$30-$120. No credit cards.

Vila Belmiro Rua Princesa Isabel, no number, Santos (13 3257 4000).

Tickets R$20-$60.

54 timeout.com/sao-paulo January/February 2014 790 FOOTBALL_30Jan_Bia.indd 54

31/01/14 13:43

SP Essentials 56 58

SHUTTERSTOCK

Map Resources

Just passing through Centro’s skyscrapers provide the backdrop when crossing the Santa Ifigênia overpass

99 OPENERS_Bia_30jan.indd 55

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Resources EMERGENCIES

TELEPHONES

Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

DiaLling & codes

For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil.

Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

INST

@timeoutsp

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit).

The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.

Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket.

A ride to any destination costs R$3 and tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

thiago veiga (@thiveiga)

HEALTH

instant São Paulo

Submit your best Instagram pics of SP for a chance to see them featured on this page. This month’s chosen ’gram is from Thiago Veiga (@thiveiga), who captured the calm of Parque do Ibirapuera’s fountains before the storm. Find us on Instagram (@timeoutsp), tag your photos #timeoutsp, and we’ll pick our favourite each month.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App, or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand.

Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which your licence was issued.

Avis 3259 6868/avis.com

Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

CYCLING

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closed-off roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa. com.br).

WALKING

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot. The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo.com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img. org.br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

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Av. Braz Leme, 2040 • Santana - São Paulo • Tel: 2967 1000 Praça Sto. Eduardo, 206 • Vila Maria - São Paulo • Tel: 2955 5908

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