Revista Time Out SP - EN - Ed.39/mar. 2014

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Edition h s i l g En 39 Issue #

ISSN 2179-894X

+ SP-ARTE + NEW EATERIES + SAVAGES INTERVIEW

SP CITY

ROCK

Sﾃ｣o Paulo gears up for another two-day music marathon, as Lollapalooza rolls into town

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THE BEST OF THE CITY INSIDE THE CITY’S BEST HOTELS

You can also find copies of Time Out

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MANHATTAN

São Paulo magazine at the city’s best newsstands, at the SPTuris stands in Guarulhos and Congonhas airports, and at Movida Rent a Car.

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This month in São Paulo 20 March - 19 April 2014

City Beat The word on the street.

www.timeout.com/sao-paulo

Shopping & Style

6

Features 8

Kate Winslet

Film 45 The city receives the international

The Oscar-winning actress talks to us about her latest film Labor Day, pregnancy and motherhood, and moving back to England.

documentary festival, ‘É Tudo Verdade’ (It’s All True), plus the latest film reviews.

12

Lollapalooza

Having relocated to a larger space, the two-day ER international alternative COV RY music festival returns STO for its third edition.

Gay & Lesbian 49 Clubs, bars, cafés and outings: our pick of the city for São Paulo’s LGBT crowd.

Food & Drink

Music & Nightlife

20

Osaka

We check out the latest upscale Japanese-Peruvian to set up shop and round up the city’s latest crop of culinary openings.

Bars & Cafés

44

From mega-malls to crafts and antiques markets, find what you’re looking for citywide.

50

Up-and-coming band and Lollapalooza act Savages talk to us about their sound, their style and playing festivals.

32

After skipping this hidden gem in plain sight, we stop in at Toca do Coelho to sample its extensive microbrew beer selection and pages-long cachaça list.

Performance 53 Jesus Christ and Elis Regina

Art & Museums

Football

54 Brazil coach Felipe Scolari seeks

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40

A new exhibition featuring the intricate and otherworldly prints of the famed Brazilian artist Marcelo Grassmann opens at Pinacoteca.

are the subjects of a pair of biographical musicals.

an understudy.

Wild and free ‘Le Cheval Ivre’ by Joan Miró at Caixa Cultural São Paulo

SP Essentials 55 Essential information for visitors, and a handy city map. Also, join us on Instagram for a chance to see your pix in print.

Quote of the month

Cover design Bia Gomes Cover photography Shutterstock

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Look out for the magazine in Portuguese, too.

I don’t think it matters if you’re a good dancer. The point is to feel moved by music.

Gentlemen prefer blondes The doc ‘São Paulo em Hi-Fi’ recalls gay history

win BUTLeR, Musician See page 18

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City Beat

Renato S. Cerqueira/Futura Press

The Big Picture

Carnival craze Newbies wait until the last days of Carnival to don their costumes and take to the streets in search of the city’s best blocos (roving parties), but those in the know – and those planning to skip town for the annual festival – start weeks in advance. And where better to do it than at the unpretentious lower end of Rua Augusta? The Acadêmicos de Baixo Augusta bloco (above), still a relative newcomer, did just that, and brought fun-lovers out in droves.

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São Paulo insider Top tips from the Time Out team Street-level cinemas are almost extinct in SP – almost, because there’s still CineSESC. There’s only one screen here (and a really good one, at that), but the selection is eclectic and the prices are reasonable, and that’s aside from the frequent screenings with free admission. Grab a coffee with a pão de queijo or some bite-sized tapioca treats at the concession stand, or hit the popcorn cart (yes, they still exist!) out on the sidewalk before you go in. Once you’re in the theatre, you can even enjoy a drink and watch from inside the bar. Rafael Argemon, Assistant Editor. CineSESC is at Rua Augusta 2075, Jardim Paulista (3087 0500/sescsp.org.br).

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Find us online … timeout.com/sao-paulo

Stay up to date with the best of what’s happening in São Paulo daily by heading to timeout.com/ sao-paulo. Join us on the social networks too: we’re on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Time Out São Paulo is published by Editora Dansville Ltda.

Rua Valdir Niemeyer 58 Perdizes, São Paulo – SP 01257-080, Brasil.

Tel +55 (11) 3071 3309 Email contato@guiatimeout.com.br Publisher Silvio Giannini

Follow us on Twitter for our daily pick of São Paulo’s best gigs, exhibitions and events @TimeOutSP_en

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Snap São Paulo and share it with us on Instagram, using the hashtag #timeoutsp.

Follow us at @timeoutsp

timeout.com/sao-paulo

Editorial Editor-in-Chief Claire Rigby Deputy Editors Juan Cifrian, CM Gorey, Mariana Leite Assistant Editor Rafael Argemon Gastronomy Editor Catherine Balston Reporter Cecília Gianesi Translators Ana Cecília de Paula, Christopher Mack Proofreader Marina Monzillo Rio de Janeiro Editor Alice Moura

From art exhibitions to gigs, festivals, historic tours, and the inside track on hundreds of bars, botecos, cafés and restaurants, timeout.com/sao-paulo is packed with the best São Paulo has to offer.

Design Art Director Bia Gomes Print Production Gráfica Aquarela Contributors Text Cath Clarke, Jonny Ensall, Eddy Frankel, Roseanne Hanley, Thomas Moir, Fabio Rigobelo, Joshua Rothkopf

Coming up online

Advertising (11) 3071 3309, ext. 22 Sales Director Elcio Farigo Account Managers Luciana Gomes, Luiz Guerreiro

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Marketing and Distribution (11) 3071 3309, ext. 18 Marketing & New Business Director Virgínia Castro Administration Finance Manager Sueli Maria da Silva

JOAN BAEZ The US folk singer

and lifelong political and social activist marches into São Paulo to perform two shows at Shopping Bourbon’s Teatro Bradesco. j.mp/joanbSP

GASTRONOMADE 2014 Brazil’s version of the US locavore tour ‘Outstanding in the Field’ returns to SP’s countryside for its third edition, with Miya’s Flávio Miyamura at the helm. j.mp/TOSP_gnmde

last month’s most viewed

Time Out São Paulo is published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out International Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. www.timeout.com © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2013 Time Out Group Chairman Tony Elliott International MD David Woodley International Content Director Marcus Webb International Editor Chris Bourn International Art Director Anthony Huggins Although every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot accept reponsibility for any errors it may contain.

SP SAMBA HOTSPOTS From

old-school spots downtown to candlelit gatherings in far-flung neighbourhoods, our roundup will help you satisfy all your samba cravings. j.mp/samba10

Printed in Brazil by Gráfica Aquarela Distributed by Euromag (11) 3473 9178

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No payment of any kind has secured or influenced a review in this publication. Time Out maintains a strict policy of editorial independence, and advertisers are never guaranteed special treatment of any kind: an advertiser may receive a bad review or no review at all.

alfresco eating Soak up

the final days and nights of summer at the gourmet Itaim sushi joint Tokyo Rose (see photo) or at another of these breezy outdoor dining spots. j.mp/eatalfre

ice cream parlours So

many flavours, so little time. Indulge yourself at Vipiteno Gelato & Caffé (see photo), before working your way down the rest of this sweet list. j.mp/icecreamz

The key to our five-star rating system

We love it It’s great We like it Just tepid ... meh

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The

TIME OUT interview

Mum’s the word Kate Winslet, one of the UK’s finest actresses, tells Time Out’s Cath Clarke about her new film Labor Day and why she’s happy when it rains

B

eing normal is Kate Winslet’s thing. That, and being one of the most talented actresses of her generation. A serial Oscar nominee, she finally won Best Actress for The Reader in 2009, and she is Revolutionary Road-terrific in her new film Labor Day, playing an agoraphobic single mum of a teenage boy. Their lives are turned upside down over one sweltering bank holiday weekend when an escaped murderer (Josh Brolin) walks into their lives. As she says – ‘Just when you think he’s going to slit their throats, he bakes them a cake.’

Your character in Labor Day, Adele, is very fragile. She’s agoraphobic and depressed, but she has this incredibly strong love for her son. Was that a tricky balance to strike?

‘I’m so glad you say that, because I did find that challenging about her. I didn’t want her to be a nervous Nelly for the whole film. And I very much admired her ability as a mother to absolutely put her son first. She’s depressed and yet she’s not moping around in a dressing gown until three, sinking into a bottle of gin. She’s somehow just about pulling it together to raise that lovely boy.’

Could you have played the part before you were a mum?

‘No. It’s really interesting. I did Hideous Kinky when I was 22, 23, and there was a lot I had to guess about maternal instincts because I wasn’t a parent. But with Adele I don’t think I would have been able to play her had I not been a parent. Particularly a parent with a child of similar age. Mia is nearly 13 and it almost brings a lump to my throat to describe this time in a child’s life, because everything is a gigantic question. Every day it’s just exhausting because they’re just bursting with curiosity.

“Is this right? Is this wrong? How should I be?”

And you just have this desire to hug them, just be there and just listen. All they really want actually is to be heard.’

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The

TIME OUT interview

Single mums get a hard time of it, but Labor Day shows what a tough job it is.

‘You’re right, single mums do come in for a hard time. Society is incredibly judgmental. Listen, I know this. My life has taken me down several different paths I never expected it to take me down.

Not in a million years. And I know the true meaning of getting by by the skin of my teeth, I do.

It doesn’t matter whether you’ve got money or you haven’t, whether you’re famous or not. This is the case for all women actually, you have to carry on. You always have to carry on. And you can, because you have to.’

You moved back to England last year from New York. Does it feel good to be home?

‘Yes. But to be honest with you I never really felt as though I left. We would always come back for summer, Christmas and Easter. There are things that the kids miss about New York – every now and then we get nostalgic for the sound of taxicabs or our favourite little park. One thing I love about being back is English rain. Looking out of the window now, it’s raining and the sky is dark, I love it. To me those are reassuringly English things. I love it when it rains.’

You were 22 when Titanic came out. What stopped you from becoming a Hollywood brat?

‘I’m nice [peal of laugher]! Seriously. What would be the point? I was raised to be a decent, polite person and I just could see that with some people they changed, that terrible sense of entitlement can kick in. I never felt that I was in any way entitled to be a little arsehole. I just don’t believe that that’s how you should be in life, famous or not.’

What advice would you give your 19-yearold self?

‘None. I don’t really believe in regret, honestly.

Not to get spiritual about it, but there is literally nothing in my life where I think: “Oh God damn it, I wish I hadn’t done that.” Every moment I’ve experienced, everything I’ve gone through in my professional life and in my personal life is part of who I am. You learn from things that you experience in life. I’d never want to say that I regret anything or that anything was a mistake. Honestly, that isn’t how I have chosen to live my life.’

How aware are your kids of your fame?

‘Not particularly aware. Because it isn’t thrust in their face. I never ever expose them to it. Sometimes, if we’re out and about in London and people start pulling out cameraphones, Mia might say to me: “Hat, Mum,” or, “Twelve o’clock.” You just have to make light of these things and carry on really. We really have a totally normal life.’

Dale Robinette/press image

You’ve worked through this pregnancy. How has that been?

‘I worked from about from nine weeks to about 20 weeks, so it really wasn’t too bad – less than most women who work. But it was interesting trying to hide the boobs beneath a corset. Oh my God, we would just laugh at the end. I would stare at the corset in the morning and want to cry.’

Mum’s the word Winslet’s Adele takes in a fugitive (Brolin, right) for a weekend in ‘Labor Day’

You named-and-shamed a magazine that airbrushed you thinner. Why is that important?

‘I just believe in setting real examples, you know?

I won’t allow magazines in the house. When I was younger I wanted to have my hair cut like soand-so in the class above me at school, not somebody in a magazine. You see young girls trying to dress like so-and-so because they’ve seen lots of pictures of them.’

‘I’m 37 years old. We have one life. I don’t want to spend my time thinking about the size of my arse’ Have you become more comfortable and confident about your body as you got older?

‘Look. I’m 37 years old. We have one life. I don’t want to spend my time thinking about the size of my arse. I want to be as healthy as I can be, and I want to have as much fun as I can have.

I want to be around for my children. That’s it.

Those are the priorities. Not getting a flat stomach. Don’t get me wrong, I like staying fit and healthy, it’s all part of a healthy attitude to life.

I don’t think I’m alone in this. I’m seeing more and more curvier actresses out there. And every now and then the fashion world will give us a slightly curvier model. I just believe in being normal and healthy.’

So we’re not going to see you rushing out after the baby to get the figure back.

‘No, how does anyone have the time? Also, let’s be real here. Everyone is different. Springing back into shape after a baby, that’s not really something that’s ever happened particularly swiftly for me. That’s just me. I have a good friend who’s naturally extremely slight, who’s five weeks ahead of me in her pregnancy. She must eat three times as much as I do. I just saw her this morning and I said, “You are just literally going to bounce back within three weeks of your child.”’

In Labor Day you come face to face with your 50-year-old-self. Does getting older worry you?

‘No it doesn’t. I really love it when I see that youthful twinkle in older men and women. My dad really has that impish twinkle. Getting older is all about life experience.’

So you’re looking forward to the Meryl Streep years?

‘If I get to have them, yeah, sure. That would be amazing. This generation of actresses is incredibly lucky because we have people like Meryl and even Emma Thompson, Susan Sarandon, Vanessa Redgrave and Judi Dench. We have these actresses to look up to. Isn’t it interesting that those are the actresses that we all want to watch? The ones who look real, the ones whose lives you can see in their faces. Those are truly beautiful women.’

Labor Day (Refém da Paixão) is released on 14 March.

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Back on tra c

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a cks

Returning for a third São Paulo installment, Perry Farrell’s alternative music fest Lollapalooza stretches out at its bigger venue, says CM Gorey

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muse

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new order

nine inch nails

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W

ith 23 on-again, off-again years of rock under its belt – first as a US-only touring event, and now as a destination festival in Chicago with jaunts to South America, Lollapalooza festival’s now annual trips to São Paulo have fast become some of the most eagerly awaited dates of the musical year. Featuring a long list of heavy-hitting, big-name rock bands packaged alongside a selection of more under-the-radar acts, plus a sprinkling of local talent, the festival touches down this year in a new location.

After trying out a three-day span of shows last year at its original Jockey Club home, Lolla has been re-compressed into its original two-day format; but what it loses in time it makes up for in space: its new digs, the Autódromo Jose Carlos Pace – the Formula One Brazilian Grand Prix track popularly known as Interlagos – offers considerably larger grounds to accommodate the expected 160,000 fans. They’re promised more food service areas, twice the number of toilets as last year, and a greater distance between the four main stages, better confining the sound of each of the more than forty bands to their intended audiences.

Now sitting comfortably alongside the other big São Paulo indie event, Planeta Terra, which held its seventh edition last November, Lollapalooza’s third annual SP trip has become the last of a trio of South American stops after Santiago, Chile and an Argentinian mid-week pair of dates in Buenos Aires, bringing its reliable mix of thoroughly-marketed newer acts and long-established money-makers. And while critics have long derided the festival for avoiding any truly underground or experimental performers, the slightly alternative aspect to the goings-on mean more to Brazilian indie fans who are, generally speaking, a minority within a music scene dominated by genres such as sertaneja, MPB and samba, and even the perennial large-scale draw of touring old-school heavy metal bands.

So perhaps there’s a touch of irony in the fact that the first of the festival’s two days, kicking off on 5 April, features the bombast of the Bri-

LOLLAPALOOZA

tish band Muse, whose prog-rock-meets-classical anthems and stage show are closer in style to an Iron Maiden spectacle than a lo-fi indie offering.

Muse’s 2012 experiments in electronica and dubstep, as unveiled on the album The 2nd Law, were only a temporary fling, as their setlists continue to incorporate their solid back catalogue, including the rousing ‘Uprising’ and the powerful ‘Starlight’.

Also playing Saturday night – and no less grandiose – Nine Inch Nails, brings the industrial and ambient angst of last year’s Hesitation Marks, NIN’s first release since its leader, Trent Reznor, ended the band’s self-imposed hiatus in 2012.

The US band, which played at Lollapalooza’s inaugural festival back in 1991, shares Day-1’s lineup with a list of next-generation names: the jaunty shuffle of the French band Phoenix; the unthreatening Las Vegas export Imagine Dragons; the synth-leaning pop of The Strokes’s frontman Julian Casablancas; and the music industry’s current great hope for the future, Lorde (aka Ella Maria Lani Yelich-O’Connor), the 17-year-old New

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LOLLAPALOOZA

Made in Brazil

Zealand singer-songwriter whose worldwide hit ‘Royals’ from 2013’s Pure Heroine earned her a Grammy award for Song of the Year.

But for all the fresh-faced youth pumped into the bill, the two days are overshadowed by a strong retro-rock presence. Reformed Seattle grunge stars Soundgarden continue right where they left off, with vocalist Chris Cornell determinedly belting his way over the proceedings. Also keeping the ’90s US alt-rock flag flying high are the almighty Pixies. It remains to be seen whether the reunited band’s touring bassist, the Argentinian musician Paz Lenchantin, will still be handling bass duties by the time they get to São Paulo – the band’s original bassist Kim Deal (also of The Breeders) left in June of last year, and her replacement bassist, Kim Shattuck, was let go in November.

Another reunited band missing its original bassist, the British new-wave pioneers New Order soldier on, reconfigured as a five-piece and still touring 2011’s well-received Lost Sirens, as well as dance club staples like ‘Blue Monday’. Sunday also promises an appearance from fellow 1980s icon, the guitarist Johnny Marr, revered for his work with The Smiths.

With so many acts creating a weekend of alternative nostalgia, it’s a safe bet that many of those who haven’t left the sounds of their college rock years behind now come with families in tow.

For those too young for the adult themes on the main stages, Kidzapalooza provides fun activities, and even includes its own child-friendly bands.

Lollapalooza certainly didn’t start out as a family show, but then again, who expected to see Nine Inch Nails or New Order still going strong decades after their first excursions into the underground?

Vitor Salerno​/press image

Roberta Sant’Anna/press image

With a healthy complement of Brazilian bands playing at Lollapalooza, CM Gorey picks out some of the most interesting local talent on the bill

Nação Zumbi

Apanhador Só

This band, hailing from Recife in the state of Pernambuco, is legendary for the pivotal role it played in manguebeat, an early-1990s cultural movement that came complete with its own manifesto, co-written

by Chico Science, Nação Zumbi’s original vocalist. Tragically, Science was killed in a car accident in 1997, but the band has continued to release new material, with original member Jorge dü Peixe assuming the singing duties. With an as-yet-unnamed album planned for release in 2014 – the first since 2007’s Fome de Tudo, and a live album also from 2007, recorded in their home city – the heavily percussive eightpiece will likely spur the crowd to action.

Listen here: j.mp/nacaozu

Lollapalooza takes place at Autódromo Jose Carlos Pace, Avenida Senador Teotônio Vilela 261, Interlagos (5666 8822/lollapaloozabr.com) on 5-6 April. Tickets R$290 per day, R$540 for a two-day pass.

Unless you’re making songs for children or form part of an avant-garde theatre troupe, experimenting with instruments like cheese graters, rubber ducks and buckets sounds like a recipe for musical suicide. And yet Apanhador Só pulls it off.

The Porto Alegre group, which formed in 2006, claims to be practicing ‘vandalismo estético’ (aesthetic vandalism), but luckily for us, they don’t seem to take that tag too seriously: misplaced falsetto notes, scratchy metal squeals and groaning backing vocals add to the fun without tackling the melody or the derailing the presence of determined riffs. Ultimately, they’re more sweet-sounding than dangerous. Listen here: j.mp/apanhad

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Vespas Mandarinas

The paulistano four-piece Vespa Mandarinas only formed in 2009, but has already notched up three albums showcasing the band’s guitar-driven rock.

The latest, 2013’s Animal Nacional, is a solid collection of well-produced tracks punctuated by catchy choruses, bouncy rhythms and smart, economical playing, demonstrated on memorable songs with soaring vocal hooks such as ‘Cobra de Vidro’ and ‘Santa Sampa’. If only the rest of the world could get over music sung in Portuguese that wasn’t bossa nova, this group might be on the verge of making it big. Listen here: j.mp/vesman

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johnny Marr

Raimundos

Active for roughly a quarter-century, and with eight studio records to its credit, Raimundos is one of the country’s bestselling national rock bands despite original vocalist Rodolfo Abrantes’s departure back in 2001. The heavy-metal-leaning band, whose sound has been dubbed ‘forrocore’ for its occasional use of elements from the Brazilian North-Eastern rural style, recently forged an independent path, putting out its newest record, Cantigas de Roda (produced by Billy Graziadei of the New York hardcore band Biohazard) in February via an effective crowdfunding campaign.

Listen here: j.mp/raimund

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Av. Braz Leme, 2040 • Santana - São Paulo • Tel: 2967 1000 Praça Sto. Eduardo, 206 • Vila Maria - São Paulo • Tel: 2955 5908

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LOLLAPALOOZA

Interview: Arcade Fire’s Win Butler With their 2013 album Reflektor, Arcade Fire took a disco-fixated turn, complete with voodoo/disco-inspired live gigs. Jonny Ensall quizzes frontman Win Butler (second from left, below) about his love for lamé

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arcade fire

What’s the idea behind the disco shows you’ve been putting on?

We wanted to translate the spirit of something we’d experienced at Carnival in Haiti to a way people back home would understand it. It was the first time I enjoyed dancing as part of a huge crowd.

Are you a good dancer?

I don’t think it matters – the point is to feel moved by music. I’m not someone who can dance to a song I don’t like. In high school, if New Order or Depeche Mode or something I liked came on, I’d jump up. But the idea of dancing to bad house music is something I could never get behind.

Ecstasy probably helps – but I never partook.

Why not?

I never needed the help. I’d rather be moved by something great, rather than use drugs to make something that’s shitty seem great. There’s a big difference between going to Ibiza and watching people do drugs and try to sleep with each other, and being in Haiti when there’s a voodoo drummer playing and the kids come out and dance until three in the morning, and then jump in the ocean.

James Murphy [of LCD Soundsystem] is really inspired by the disco scene of ’70s New York. Did that rub off on you?

Yes. But Montreal in the ’70s was another hotbed of disco. David Bowie and Grace Jones would come up. There was a club in Montreal called Lime Light. People used to line up all the way around the block, hoping to get in. It was an inspiration.

What about the ‘disco sucks’ movement?

Why did people hate it so much in the ’70s and ’80s?

I think disco was this gay, countercultural thing.

There’s a song on [Arcade Fire’s album] Reflektor called ‘We Exist’, which is about a gay kid talking to his dad [‘Daddy, it’s true, I’m different from you. But tell me why they treat me like this?’].

In dominant cultures there’s what’s normal, and everything else is abnormal. It’s one of the darker tendencies of humanity to think everyone should fit into a mould.

‘If you think our band are hipsters, then ... whatever. I do like a good cup of coffee’ Did you and Murphy hit it off right away?

Everything we’d read made it seem like we’d find each other annoying. But we had a ton in common. When we saw each other play for the first time, we were both, ‘Hey, I really like your band!’ And he has a great beard.

Are you thinking of growing one yourself?

I’m not a good hipster – if I let my moustache grow, it really just looks like I have dirt on my face.

What does that word ‘hipster’ actually mean?

The term ‘hippy’ was coined by the beatniks

because in the ’60s, hippy meant ‘little hipster’.

‘Hipster’ means absolutely nothing now. If you think our band are hipsters, then … whatever.

I do like a good cup of coffee, whatever that makes me.

Hipster enough for your ‘Here Comes the Night Time’ video to attract a shedload of stars. How did that all come about?

James Franco just happened to be in town. The Michael Cera bit was funny [Cera, of Superbad fame, plays a scornful Spanish waiter], because I called him and he was like, ‘Well, I speak pretty good Spanish.’ That just wrote itself: Michael Cera speaking Spanish – it’s going to be funny.

What have you learned about the world recently?

One of the most powerful things I’ve seen was in Haiti. After the earthquake, there was no electricity – everywhere blacked out. There were people in the streets with all their belongings and joyful women singing songs of praise to be alive. I just continue to learn a lot from Haiti and Haitians about how to be grateful for what you have.

And you became a father this year. Do you worry about your son?

He’s six months old. He doesn’t really know what ‘scary’ is yet. Sometimes, though, you can see it in his eyes: he’s like, ‘Whoa!’ – totally freaked out by something unrecognisable. But I feel that sense of wonder is all part of growing up.

Arcade Fire play Lollapalooza on 6 April.

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Food & Drink

The best restaurants, bars and cafés 20 32

TADEU BRUNELLI/PRESS IMAGE

Eating Out Bars & Cafés

Chilled with chillies Obá’s pla hoi nangrom, a dish of oysters with chilli peppers, shallots and garlic

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Eating Out Reviews

Diner’s digest

Osaka

Culinary comings and goings around town

This Lima import proves Peruvian cuisine is no flash in the pan in SP

Fashionable fusion Peru’s nikkei cuisine is served in this stylish space

Vieira alla Parmesana (R$26-$46).

The Hot Rock Ceviche (R$68) came with thinly sliced fish arranged around a hot stone, over which a stock of miso, chilli and lime was poured to sizzling effect at the table, let down only by the stock’s lack of savoury punch. The fish and hot rock combination worked to better effect with the Sakana Ishiyaki (R$58) –

Shell it out Flaming scallops are just one of the dramatic dishes at Osaka

raw fish, infused on a bed of herbs including coriander, togarashi and pepper, seared by diners with a quick flash on the rock.

The ceviche can be hit and miss – we tried three (R$42-$46 each or R$64 for three), and loved the sour spice of the Andino with tuna and yuzu (though on our visit, the tuna was a tad chewy), while the Indo, with salmon, mango, Thai chilli jam and coconut, was cloyingly sweet.

Truth is, for upwards of R$200 per head, including a couple of drinks from the inventive cocktail list and eating enough to be satisfied, Osaka doesn’t feel like value for money.

That said, if you’re up for the glitz and the glam, and a different slant on Japanese food, it’s a fun dining destination. Catherine Balston Rua Amauri 234, Itaim Bibi (3073 0234/osaka.com.pe). Open Noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon, Tue; noon-3pm, 7pm-12.30am Wed, Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Fri; 12.30pm-4pm, 7.30pm-1am Sat; 12.30pm-4pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$72.

Micaela Going straight to the top of our must-try list, Micaela is the lovechild of chef Fábio Vieira’s two passions: Brazilian and Catalan cuisine. Rua José Maria Lisboa 228, Jardim Paulista (3473 6849/ restaurantemicaela.com.br).

Miss Saigon While Thai restaurants are on the up, neighbouring Vietnam has been entirely absent from the São Paulo dining map. Cue Miss Saigon – the city’s first Vietnamese restaurant. Alameda dos Jurupis 1374, Moema (4564 1419/ misssaigonrestaurante.com.br).

Museo Veronica An all-Spanish brigade rolls out Spanish classics – tortilla, morcilla, croquetas and the like – teamed with one of the most affordable wine lists in the city. Rua Tuim 370, Moema (5051 2654).

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Huaco Causas, tiraditos and ceviches washed down with chicha morada: the classics of Peruvian cuisine are getting this no-frills Pinheiros newcomer off to a flying start.

Rua Fradique Coutinho 832, Vila Madalena (3969 8893/huaco.com.br).

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Not to be confused with the São Paulo sushi chain of the same name, Osaka is the first Brazilian branch of the upmarket Lima restaurant. They’re doing what they call ‘nikkei cuisine’ here, a term now synonymous with Japanese-Peruvian food, despite the fact that nikkei – Japanese diaspora – have reached all corners of the globe, including Brazil, home to more Japanese descendants than Peru.

And while sushi with a Brazilian twist – think battered ‘hot rolls’ or maki with cream cheese – remains a firm favourite in São Paulo, Peru has exported its Japanese fusion cuisine around the world, along with Peruvian classics like ceviche and causitas (topped potato cakes, R$14).

You’ll find all these and more on the sizeable menu at fashionable Osaka, divided into ceviches, tiraditos (sashimi-like raw fish slices, R$24-$52), causas, anticuchos (meat skewers), salads, sushi and hot dishes. This is nikkei cuisine done show-biz style, from the space – a double-height dining room with dramatic spotlights, carved wooden trellising and a crowning wooden lamp around four metres wide – to the dressy clientele, and the flashy food. Scallops, for example, arrive at the table in flames, the delicate flesh barely detectable beneath a melting coat of Parmesan cheese, in the

Alma Cozinha A culinary mash-up inspired by São Paulo’s multicultural heritage is the inspiration for the menu at the unpretentious Alma Cozinha, set in a converted garage in Perdizes. Rua João Ramalho 1489, Perdizes (2835 1108/almacozinha.com.br).

Garage grub Alma Cozinha

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How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s restaurants, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give a range of main course prices, disregarding unrepresentatively expensive dishes. We give a lunch price if available, and the cover charge (couvert), which includes bread, dips and so on, and which is always optional. If you don’t want it, just say so.

Bargain bites Restaurant Week

NEW means the restaurant has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. denotes restaurants with particularly good options for vegetarians. signals that the restaurant is popular with a gay crowd. means the restaurant has a bar worth visiting in its own right, whether or not you stay for dinner. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

BARGAIN marks budget dining spots.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro GREEK Acrópoles You can imagine

Acrópoles landing a minor part in a Woody Allen movie, or a cameo role in Seinfeld as the quintessential family-owned neighbourhood joint. Today, word is out that the food is good and paulistanos from all over town flock here, spilling onto the pavement outside and drinking draught beer as they wait patiently for a table to come free. In fact, weekends can get uncomfortably packed despite the outmoded downtown location. The decor is beyond faded, with wonky photos of crumbling temples, and the veteran owners look like they might have had a hand in building the original Acrópolis. The steaming kitchen rolls out Greek classics such as moussaka and baked lamb, along with some nods to Italian classics. Nothing’s spectacular – but it’s good, solid, homemade stuff. Rua da Graça 364, Bom Retiro (3223 4386/restauranteacropoles.com.br).

Open noon-11pm daily. Main courses R$30-$60; couvert R$25-$45. BARGAIN

FRENCH La Casserole It first opened in 1954, and since then little has changed in this frozen-in-time bistro – which is no bad thing. The service is friendly and charming, and the food is good, solid, bourgeois cooking. The menu doesn’t pander or dumb down, though – there are classics like tripes à la mode de Caen and kidneys in beaujolais wine, alongside well cooked lamb and the tried-and-tested coq au vin. It’s worth spending a little time walking round the neighbourhood by day (be careful in the area after nightfall) to

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We visit restaurants anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ’No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Food & Drink

Restaurant listings Consolação & Higienópolis AMERICAN 210 Diner Done out in the style of a classic American diner, albeit a swish, upgraded one, 210 Diner has quickly become a go-to spot in Higienópolis for those in search of a hearty slice of Americana. We’d consider the mushroom-flecked macaroni cheese as a possible side order for our last-ever meal – consider, we said; and the tuna-melt sandwich ain’t half bad either. Burgers are a good choice too – get us a piggie burger while you’re in there, will you? It’s hunky and char-grilled, and topped with deboned pork ribs in barbecue sauce. Rua Pará 210, Higienópolis (3661 1219/210diner. com.br). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open noon3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 7-11.30pm Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10.45pm Sun. Main courses R$16$52; lunch R$27-$49.

ITALIAN Camelo What started out in

Food lovers, prepare to block-book the last two weeks in March for Restaurant Week, the biannual fortnight of discount dining, with three-course set lunches (R$37.90) and dinners (R$49.90) being served at over 200 restaurants across town. This edition’s menu inspiration is ‘flavours of Brazil’, with dishes like Mimo’s roast pumpkin, molasses and queijo coalho (cheese) salad (see photo). See j.mp/TOSP_restweek for our roundup of the best restaurants to hit. 17-30 March, citywide. enjoy the small flower market nearby, and to get a flavour of the way São Paulo was before the wreckers’ balls took over. Largo do Arouche 346, Centro (3331 6283/ lacasserole.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$38.50-$72.50; lunch R$42$52; couvert R$10-$14.

VEGETARIAN Lótus Restaurante Vegetariano An easy walk from Luz metrô and the Pinacoteca, Lótus serves up an ample lunchtime buffet with an Asian twist. Vegetarians who reject fake meat on principle will be horrified by the inventive range of soya-based meat substitutes on offer, lurking in the likes of meatballs, chicken nuggets, and even fake fish – which is curiously absent from the excellent veggie sushi. A smattering of Brazilian staples such as deep-fried pastéis and the Bahian bean-patties – acarajé – serve to remind you exactly where you are.

It’s all R$33.90 per kilo during the week, and R$35.90 on Saturdays, so load up your plate, but save space for the sumptuous desserts, including a fruit buffet that goes the extra mile with lesser-known seasonal

fruits such as pitaya. Rua Brigadeiro Tobias 420, República (3229 6769). Metrô 4 and 1, Luz. Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Sat. Prices R$33.90-$35.90 per kilo.

ECLECTIC Ramona A welcome latenight dining option in downtown’s gourmet vacuum, Ramona draws a media and artsy crowd. The cocktails are sassy (don’t miss the bloody mary, R$29, served with two slices of crispy bacon), and the basement is a speakeasy-style bar, eStonia. A highlight on the concise menu is the Ramona cheeseburger (R$33), packing a 200g beef patty, fried egg, homemade mayo and a slice of one of Brazil’s few good cheeses, from the Serra da Canastra region of Minas Gerais. The penne rigate (R$36), on the other hand, was forgettable. Groups of up to six can squeeze into one of two cosy blue leather booths, while solo diners may enjoy the street view by one of the large windows upstairs. Avenida São Luís 282, República (3258 6385/casaramona.com. br). Metrô 3 and 4, República. Open noon-midnight Mon, Tue; noon-2am Wed-Fri; 1pm-2am Sat. Main courses R$21-$55; lunch R$31.

1957 as an Arabic restaurant serving esfihas and houmous has reinvented itself over the years, and is now one of the city’s most traditional pizza joints.

Vast, bright, busy and welcoming, Camelo serves crunchy-based pizzas, such as the house special – pizza Camelo – with endive, bacon, palm heart and olives, or a healthier rocket and sun-dried-tomato option. Deviating slightly from the Italian theme, another tasty option is the frango à passarinho (crispy, deep fried chicken). Rua Engenheiro Edgar Egídio de Souza 98, Higienópolis (3822 5050/pizzariacamelo. com.br). Open 6pm-1am Fri-Sat; 6pmmidnight Sun-Thu. Main courses R$64-$116 (for two). Other locations Citywide.

FRENCH La Tartine You can’t go wrong with friendly La Tartine for an informal bite to eat with friends. This small bistro has three cosy rooms: two on the ground floor and one upstairs, where you can also settle into one of the sofas while you wait – although don’t be surprised to find a queue forming down the stairs at weekends.

The menu is small and reasonably priced, featuring traditional French fare such as quiche and salad, steak au poivre and coq au vin. Rua Fernando Albuquerque 267, Consolação (3259 2090). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 7.30pm-12.30am MonSat. Main courses R$29-$49. BARGAIN THAI Made in Thai Owned by the Brazilian chef Camila Paludi, who studied Thai cuisine on Koh Samui island, Made in Thai is a hole-in-the-wall joint just off the bustling Rua Augusta, which dispenses with decorum, serving up a handful of dishes inspired by Thailand’s spectacular street food culture. The simplicity is evident from the get go, with the menu scrawled on a blackboard and the unassuming Paludi cooking the orders in an open kitchen. On our visit, the Khao Pad – aromatic fried rice with Panang curry (R$20) – was light and creamy, albeit a bit mild to really excite, while the

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design and good food. From the lush green foliage on one of the ceilings upstairs to the super-sized white chairs, it’s an odd hybrid of furniture showroom and Alice in Wonderland. The food isn’t as creative as the décor – this is a simple, unfussy menu, peppered with the odd attention-grabbing dish. We ordered the prime rib (R$45) – a tender pork rib served with a rosemary risotto. The tagliarini ao limone with crunchy Parma ham (R$39) was perfectly al dente, though the promised ham was mostly notable by its absence. Rua dos Pinheiros 174, Pinheiros (2538 8107/ beatorestaurante.com.br). Open noon3.30pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 1-7pm, 8pm-12:30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$48; couvert R$6.

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ECLECTIC Brado Young, buzzy and

Sip, tuck Neatly sidestep the stress of splitting the bill after a group meal out with the Experiência Peruana at La Mar. Groups of six to ten can book in for the so-called ‘Peruvian experience’, which has no set menu, just a series of dishes to share, decided and prepared on the day by the chef Fabio Barbosa (R$90 per head). See listings. shrimp pad Thai (R$25) was light and full of flavour. Rua Augusta 1524, Consolação (3253 1677). Metro 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat. Main courses R$20-$24.

CONTEMPORARY Rex Restaurante Few

things warm the heart more than a tale of one man and his dog. In the case of Rex, the funky late-night supper club from the chef Cassio Machado, the dog in question is one Baboo, Machado’s late Rottweiler.

Baboo is reproduced in kitschy sculpture form by a number of local artists in the narrow, whimsical space. Soak up the eclectic, sensory overload decor as you browse the menu of creative burgers and simple bistro fare with a twist, like filet mignon with wasabi, ginger and rosemary (R$49), or salmon tweaked with a tart raspberry vinaigrette (R$54). Another pleasant surprise, beyond the sophisticated dining at 4am, are the wines by the glass, which you can try before you buy. Rua da Consolação 3193, Jardim Paulista (2506 7386/rexrestaurante.com.br). Open 8pm-4am Mon-Sat; 6pm-2am Sun. Main courses R$28-$55; couvert R$6.50.

BRAZILIAN Rota do Acarajé They do

a delicious acarajé here – a bean-paste patty in to which you stuff vatapá (shrimp paste), prawns, and lashings of chilli – which come conveniently mini-sized for sharing as a starter. For mains, try the Bahian moqueca – a spicy fish or prawn stew with coconut milk. The no-frills decor and pavement tables all give the place an authentically unrefined Bahian feel – as does the friendly service, which is as agonisingly slow as it is in Bahia. But the beer is cold and the food is hot, so relax and switch off that São Paulo stopwatch: for the next hour or so, you’re in Bahia.

Rua Martim Francisco 529/533, Santa Cecília (3668 6222/rotadoacaraje.com. br). Metrô 3, Santa Cecília. Open noon11.30pm Tue-Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Main courses R$54-$115 (for two).

Lapa, Perdizes, & Barra Funda STEAKHOUSE Fogão Gaúcho This

expansive steakhouse is a lone beacon of competence in a semi-industrial area in the north of the city. The quality of its cuts, the salting of the meat, and the skill at the grill all work in perfect harmony. Its superefficient waiting staff, clad in white shirts, leather boots and loose gaúcho trousers – scores it bonus points. The architecture – a series of bland cojoining rooms – is nothing to write home about, but the quality woods and marbles throughout, and an excellent bar area, make up for any design deficiencies. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767B, Barra Funda (3611 3008/ fogaogaucho.com.br). Open 11.30am-4pm, 6-11.30pm Mon-Thu; 11.30am-11.30pm Fri, Sat; 11.30am-10pm Sun. Fixed price R$69 Mon-Sat; R$85 Sun.

PERUVIAN Killa The food at this amiable local eatery is not just Peruvian, but novoandina – ‘new Andean’. Peruvian cuisine is increasingly important and the novoandina concept is to mix pre-Hispanic cooking techniques with other elements like European cooking. Here at Killa, the emphasis is on Peru’s wonderful signature dish: the raw fish salad, ceviche. And it’s delicious, with lightly-flavoured, delicate flakes of fish gently bathed in citric flavours. Our only criticism? The small portions, which might leave customers with a big appetite still hungry after lunch. Killa recently moved to a new, bigger space just three blocks down the road from its original home. Rua Padre Chico 324 (08551 8511/ killa.com.br). Open 7.30-11.30pm TueThu; 7.30pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$39.

ITALIAN Mangiare Hidden away in Vila

Leopoldina, a fast-growing neighbourhood in the west of the city, Mangiare packs in as many diners as possible to its expansive

but cosy former warehouse space. After initial teething troubles, Mangiare is now running like a finely tuned orchestra – pastas are served al dente, grilled meats are succulent, and the waiters are calm and collected. Don’t skip the delicious couvert of homemade breads. The maltagliati pasta with Bolognese ragoût (R$32) is a delicious option, but if you’re dining à deux, try the la vera bisteca alla fiorentina (R$120 for two people) – a T-bone steak covered in garlic and rosemary. To top it all off, the trio dell’amore (R$15), made with Brazilian AMMA chocolate, is a triple treat. Avenida Imperatriz Leopoldina 681,Vila Leopoldina (3034 5074/mangiaregastronomia.com. br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight MonSat; noon-5pm, 7pm-11pm Sun. Main courses R$32-$60.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros ITALIAN Aguzzo Cucina e Vino An unassuming, stylish Italian in the midst of the Pinheiros bustle, Aguzzo is pleasingly pitched below the often exorbitant prices of eateries in neighbouring Vila Madalena.

The owner, Osmânio Rezende, learnt much of his trade as a manager in the Fasano group of five-star hotels and restaurants before setting up on his own in 2006, and still plays host to many a demanding Fasano client. Menu highlights include the gnocchi with butter, sage and Parmesan (R$54) – a beautifully simple dish which has won awards in the local press. Rua Simão Álvares 325, Pinheiros (3083 7363/aguzzo. com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; 12.30-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon5pm Sun. Main courses R$49-$89; lunch R$49; couvert R$9-R$16.

ECLECTIC Beato Opened at an increasingly gourmet end of Rua dos Pinheiros, Beato is a cool, colourful spot that strikes a careful balance between hip

inviting, Brado welcomes you in, sits you down, surprises you with its unconventional menu, gets you a little giddy with decent Malbec for under R$50 a bottle, and sends you on your way, happy, well-fed and not feeling out of pocket. In short, it’s our kind of place.

The colourful, open-plan space spans the ground floor and yard of a 1950s whitewashed brick house, and the menu is eclectic, to say the least. Fish korma sits alongside the likes of chimichurri steak and wok-fried chicken, while foams feature here and there without being pretentious – more of a playful approach to comfort food than a beginner’s attempt at contemporary cuisine. Leave room for dessert – we loved the chocolate brownie with intense coffee ice cream and a sour squirt of passion fruit foam (R$16). Rua Joaquim Antunes 381, Pinheiros (3061 9293/bradorestaurante. com.br). Open noon-4pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$22-$45; lunch R$22-35; couvert R$6.

VEGETARIAN Casa Prema When hunger hits at lunchtime, head to this modest little Pinheiros restaurant for home-cooked lacto-vegetarian fare, though as the place fills up, don’t be surprised to find yourself sharing a table. Follow your fellow diners’ footsteps and make more than one trip to the buffet table – the choice, which changes daily, is impressive. The mango and pineapple chutneys are packed with flavour and make the perfect complement to the sweet potato kibe and the tofu curry.

The buzz of the lunchtime rush lends some energy and atmosphere to a space that might otherwise feel a little shabby.

Rua Diogo Moreira 312, Pinheiros (3815 1448/casaprema.com/inicial.html). Metrô 4, Faria Lima.Open 11.30am-3pm MonFri; noon-3.30pm Sat. Prices buffet R$19 or $31.20 per kilo.

ECLECTIC Chácara Santa Cecília This vast eco-reserve-cum-resto-bar is a delight to explore on sunny days as well as at night, when green outdoor spotlights create the eerie illusion of being lost in a forest. The ample buffet lunch attracts a local office crowd, with an à la carte menu in the evening, including pizza from a wood-fired oven. A standard selection of bar snacks caters for post-work drinkers, casual diners and big birthday groups.

It’s a perfect spot, too, for weekend family lunches, with special activities laid on for little ones. Rua Ferreira de Araújo 601, Pinheiros (3034 6251/chacarasantacecilia. com.br). Open: noon-3pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 6pm-1am Thu-Sat; noon-5pm

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BRAZILIAN Chef Vivi Set in simple

premises on a quiet corner of Vila Madalena, the concept here is refreshingly spontaneous: organic, seasonal ingredients on a small, daily-changing menu. On our visit, we tried the tasty chancliche cheese starter with zaatar spice mix, grilled mango and sautéed radishes (R$27.50) followed by a perfect oven-roasted rack of lamb in red wine sauce (R$67.50).

Whatever you go for, save room for the dessert tasting menu (R$20), which features five colourful delights that should help offset the depression caused by a hefty bill. Alternatively, hunt out the weekday set lunch: an appetiser, main course and dessert for a more modest R$39.50. Rua Girassol 833, Vila Madalena (3031 0079/chefvivi.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7-11.30pm Tue, Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Thu, Fri; 1-4pm, 8pmmidnight Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39.50-$67.50; lunch R$39.50.

BRAZILIAN Consulado da Bahia

Brightening up a busy corner in Pinheiros with its colourful, painted façade, this Bahian outpost serves all the usual suspects, from moqueca (fish stew) and carne seca (sun-dried beef) to acarajé – deep-fried bean patties, served here in mini versions with the requisite fillings on the side. On warm evenings and at weekends, groups and couples keep tables inside and out on the street busy, drinking caipirinhas or cold beers while tucking

into full meals, or simply grazing on bar snacks. The dishes are generous, and may feed two or more. Light eating options are limited, however, and note that seafood is somewhat pricey. Rua dos Pinheiros, 534, Pinheiros (3085 3873/consuladodabahia. com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Main courses R$40$84; lunch R$44.

tables, covered in red-and-white checkered tablecloths, and peruse the menu, which you’ll find unceremoniously glued to the back of a wine bottle. The food is nothing to write home about, but the laid-back charm and modest prices make this an ideal neighbourhood bolt-hole. Our tip?

Avoid the gritty moules and go for one of the salads, served in large bowls with a satisfying ratio of lettuce to tasty bits, such as crispy sautéed potatoes or melted goat’s cheese on croutons. Rua Mourato Coelho 1343, Vila Madalena (3814 2445/lapero.com.br). Open 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat. Main courses R$24$36; couvert R$10.

JAPANESE Dô Hidden away on an unprepossessing back street of Pinheiros, Dô offers a good deal in a bijou package: quality Japanese food at comparatively reasonable prices, in a dining room with a cool, modern design aesthetic. The BARGAIN combo platters are pleasingly flexible, ightcap French n A FRENCH Le French and traditionalists will at Le the pstairs Bazar Dinner times delight in the dearth Head u a nightcap at r yfo at this corner French of cream cheese and akeas Bazar ew, spe spot, with its cosy, mayonnaise. It’s also brand n ar, Flâner b le ty s candlelit setting, are one of the few places in largely compromised which the succulent white fish of couples, packed in sashimi is a highlight rather than a close – a little too close, perhaps, if you disappointment. The location, low lighting don’t like being overheard. Team one of and intimate size make this an ideal the classic bistro options – we enjoyed a trysting spot. Rua Padre Carvalho 224, tender entrecotê (R$36) and a deliciously Pinheiros (3816 3958/restaurantedo.com. seasoned steak tartare (R$35), both served br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Monwith salad and crispy fries – with a French Fri; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat. Prices pear cider (R$18.75 per glass) or one of sushi set for one from R$61; lunch R$34. the interesting wines, all of which can be FRENCH L’Aperô Well away from the ordered by the glass, and which include Vila Madalena hustle and bustle, L’Aperô a curious assortment from countries as is a great little spot for dinner under the far flung as Slovenia, Greece, Hungary, stars. Sit outside at one of a scattering of Israel and Morocco. On balmy nights,

GO FOR

solo diners should opt for one of the tall stools set at the bar out on the street, in pole position for watching the world go by. Rua Fradique Coutinho 179, Pinheiros (2768 0504/lefrenchbazar.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$27-$62; lunch R$26-$33; couvert R$5.10-$8.10.

Food & Drink

Sun. Main courses R$40-$85; lunch R$38-$85; couvert R$9.

ECLECTIC Marcelino Pan y Vino The team behind the excellent Lola Bistrot recently opened this no-frills restaurant, overlooking the Orleans jazz bar, and its large but unfussy menu includes hot dogs, burgers, wraps and the like. This isn’t fast food, though (and we’re not just talking about the painfully slow service) – the sauces are all homemade and meats are roasted in the wood-fired oven, which looms large in the open-plan kitchen.

Go for one of the gourmet wraps and sandwiches, or one of the sharing platters (small R$39, medium R$48), with a veggie version available as well. The fresh fruit juices are delicious and come served in a mini carafe with a straw. Rua Girassol 451, Pinheiros (3034 0461/marcelinopanyvino. com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Fri; 1pm-midnight Sat; 1-11pm Sun. Main courses R$16.20-$34; lunch R$19.90; couvert R$3.50.

STEAKHOUSE Martín Fierro If meat’s in order tonight, then this enduringly popular Argentinian restaurant may be just the ticket. There are a handful of Brazilian cuts on the menu; but aside from those, you can pretend you’re in

The Brazilian Way of PreParing MeaT. Come enjoy our selection of prime cuts prepared in traditional gaucho style along with impeccable service. Make your reservation now at Fogo de Chão. fogodechao.com.br /fogodechaobr

Find the Fogo de Chão nearest you.

São Paulo: Center Norte (11) 2089-1736 | Jardins (11) 3062-2223 | Moema (11) 5056-1795 Santo Amaro (11) 5524-0500 | Vila Olímpia (11) 5505-0791 | Belo horizonte: (31) 3227-2730 Brasília: (61) 3322-4666 | Salvador: (71) 3555-9292 | rio de Janeiro: (21) 2279-7117 17,6x12 TimeOut Ingles.indd 1

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mint (suco de limão com hortelã) or the eclectic beer menu. Thursday and Friday nights get busy with a student crowd, packing out the leafy, glass-covered patio.

Rua Francisco Leitão 282, Pinheiros (3774 1790/pitakebabbar.com.br). Open noon1am Mon-Thu; noon-2am Fri; 1pm-2am Sat; 1pm-1am Sun. Main courses R$13BARGAIN $20.90.

ECLECTIC Ruaa A relatively affordable addition to the Vila Madalena dining scene, Ruaa is a good warm-up choice for a night out before throwing yourself into the nearby bar mêlée. Despite purporting to serve a twist on street food (we’ve never knowingly eaten curry or spaghetti on the street), Ruaa’s lean menu is in actual fact more of a checklist of classic comfort foods from around the world, with the likes of fish and chips, burgers and yakisoba all ticked off. The hearty Ruaa salad (order it as a starter or a main) is packed with tasty bits like asparagus, walnuts and chunks of blue cheese. The décor is low-key, with photographs hung on exposed brick walls, and disposable brown paper placemats.

Expect neither speed nor precision from the staff. Rua Mourato Coelho 1168, Pinheiros (3097 0123/ruaa.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm, 8pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Fri; 1-5pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$52; couvert R$6.

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GERMAN Schnapshaus The checkered

Tail back Prawns, plantain and coconut milk simmer down in this moqueca (fish stew, R$72) – a Bahian favourite on the menu at Obá. See listings.

Buenos Aires to excellent effect with the very good bife de chorizo (sirloin) and the asado de tira (beef thin ribs). The side salad is possibly a little too simple – just like in Buenos Aires, in fact – but some empanadas to start with are a good idea.

Rua Aspicuelta 683, Vila Madalena (3814 6747/martinfierro.com.br). Open noon11pm daily. Main courses R$61-$83; couvert R$4.10.

BURGERS Meats This gourmet burger joint has a funky vibe and a sense of soul that many of SP’s formulaic American diner replicas seem so short of. With soft-lighting, its name writ large in naked bulbs behind the bar, a decent wine menu and a selection of cocktails, Meats clearly aspires to restaurant rather than casual diner status. The burgers are fat, juicy and pink on the inside, just as they should be. Combinations include the ‘zucchini’, a beef burger with goat’s cheese, courgette, bacon and mint sauce, or the ‘hooligan’ with cheese, bacon and horseradish mayo (both R$29). The fries (R$19) – a tasty mix of regular and sweet potato chips – were perfectly crispy. Less good were the chicken hot wings (R$24) – nice and spicy, but greasy rather than sticky. Rua dos Pinheiros 320, Pinheiros (2679 6323/ facebook: MEATS). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$13-$38.

ITALIAN Nello’s Hoping for a classy night

out? Haute cuisine? Refined surroundings?

Look elsewhere. Nello’s is comfort-central: hearty, old-school Italian dishes in an authentic setting which will warm the cockles of your heart for a minimal outlay.

The lasagne is especially consoling, with lashings of cheesy goodness, while the spaghetti bolognese is the gastronomic equivalent of your favourite old pyjamas.

Desserts are not a strong point, however: the wobbly tiramisu is best avoided. Look out for photos of the recently deceased proprietor, Nello, in his former incarnation as an Italian silver screen heart throb.

Rua Antonio Bicudo 97, Pinheiros (3082 4365/nellos.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon5pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$26$45; lunch R$16-$28. Other locations Rua Guaipá 880, Vila Leopoldina (4304 2666). BARGAIN

MIDDLE EASTERN Pita Kebab The

owners of this local bar and eaterie may be Italian, but they make a mean kebab with their own blend of spices. Lamb and kafta kebabs are the stars of the show, served either wrapped up in pitta bread, or on their own with salad. For something lighter, go for the mini falafel balls or, for an Italian twist, grilled courgettes in raspberry vinegar. To drink, don’t miss the refreshing homemade lemonade with

tablecloths and Deutschland posters of this family-style tavern have been transporting diners to a land of schnitzel and beer since it first opened in 1977. Try the tender pork in a paprika sauce, which comes with a huge portion of mashed potatoes and rice, or the best dish on the menu: paprika schnitzel. Many of the main courses will easily feed two. Rua Diogo Moreira 119, Pinheiros (3031 9886/ schnapshaus.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-11pm Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$18.30$41.50; lunch R$18-$28.

JAPANESE Tanuki The mischief-making, shape-shifting badger creature of legend graces both the name and symbol of this traditional Japanese joint. Chef Shigeru Hirano has done a bit of shape-shifting himself, opening Shigueru in Bibi recently and leaving Koje Yamasaki in charge of Tanuki. If you can navigate the somewhat inaccessible menu, you’ll find some real gems, such as a fish version of the more traditionally meaty fondue-style shabushabu – named after the sizzling sound as the food hits the hot oil (fish version R$155; meat version R$135; feeds two). It’s also a rare chance to try fugu, the poisonous puffer fish, but check availability: ‘It’s two weeks since it last came in.’ At the sushi bar, tuck into the Tanuki especial (R$110), a combination of 40 pieces of sushi and sashimi. Rua Jericó 287, Vila Madalena (3814 3760/tanukisushi.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open noon-3pm, 6.30pmmidnight Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$39$98; lunch R$26-$31; couvert R$3.50.

FRENCH Tartar&Co When is tartare not tartare? How about when it’s made with tuna or salmon? Or diced-up beetroot or profiteroles? Stretching the notion of tartare into unrecognisable new forms, this ventures serves up a rich, perfectly seasoned classic steak tartare (R$39) alongside other hits such as salmon and

tuna tartares (R$39 and R$46, respectively).

The more daring can try culinary mash ups like the ‘couleurs de Brésil’ (R$47) – raw salmon with guacamole, tomatoes, peas and roasted pupunha (palm fruit).

For those who prefer their food cooked, there are steaks, grilled fish dishes and risottos, though they’re not the restaurant’s strong point. The vibe here is clubby, with mirrored columns, exposed concrete and a DJ mixing a pop-rock soundtrack. Avenida Pedroso de Morais 1003, Pinheiros (3031 1020/tartarandco.com). Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6pm-12.30am Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 6pm-1am Fri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 1.30-5.30pm Sun. Main courses R$47-R$61.

ITALIAN Vico d’O Scugnizzo ‘Benvenuti Paesá!’ (‘Welcome, comrade!’). Promising the ‘democratic and anarchistic happiness of the Neapolitan way of living’, Vico specialises in cocina povera (food of the poor) – simple, fresh, tomato-based pasta dishes. Opened in 1983 (though it looks like 1893), the crumbling façade of this yellow house, just off the 12-lane Rua Henrique Schaumann, hides a curious interior decked out like an old Italian piazza, the walls replete with the shutters of the piazza’s faux houses. Regulars say it’s seen better days, but if you catch it on a busy night, there’s a certain fallingapart-at-the-seams charm. Try the fusilli d’O Scugnizzo (pasta spirals with a chilli and ricotta sauce), or cast your eye over the daily specials, while a solo guitarist croons Italian canzoni. Rua Artur de Azevedo 773, Jardim Paulista (3085 6912/cantinavico. com.br). Open 7pm-1.30am Mon-Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1.30am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main courses R$36-$56. No credit or debit cards.

BRAZILIAN Vila das Meninas Step

through the discreet entrance to find a scattering of tables set under a large tree hung with lanterns, in the back yard of a beautifully converted house. An illustrated menu the size of a paperback reveals soulful dictums and the story behind the restaurant, as well as a selection of dishes that pay homage to the owners’ homeland – Minas Gerais. The confit de frango com jiló caramelizado is a good pick – tender chicken served with the famously bitter fruit jiló, transformed into delightfully thick, caramelised slices.

Finish up with a fork-fight over a round of doces caseiros (homemade sweets) with queijo minas (Minas Gerais cheese). Rua Padre Carvalho 139, Pinheiros (3037 7773/viladasmeninas.com). Open noon3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue, Wed; noon3pm, 7pm-12.30am Thu-Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$60; lunch R$38.

AUSTRIAN Wolf’s Garten Markus, from the Alpine ski resort of Lech, opened Wolf’s Garten with his Brazilian wife Monica in 2007, bringing the only Austrian-speciality restaurant to town.

Markus, who takes pride in delivering the food to your table himself more often than not, has made this cosy home a surprising delight. Try the perfectly-cooked lamb cutlet, or the house special duck breast, served with banana da terra – plantain – followed by a phenomenal apfelstrudel. It’s not all fondue on the slopes. Rua Lisboa 284, Pinheiros (3088 4367/wolfsgarten. com) Open noon-3pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Sat. Main courses R$38-$51; lunch R$23-$31; couvert R$9.

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JAPANESE Aizomê If you can judge a place by its clientele, then chef Shinya Koike was clearly doing something right when he ran A1 – a small izakaya (Japanese bar with hot food) and longrunning favourite with the Japanese suits at the nearby Bank of Tokyo, on Avenida Paulista. Koike relocated a few blocks south when he opened Aizomê in 2007.

The two-storey restaurant, in an old house in Jardins (look for the large ‘39’ on the wall as there’s no sign) serves a mix of sushi, sashimi and hot Japanese dishes. Koike is best known for rolling out ‘East meets West’ fusion sushi, adapted with Brazilian ingredients. The sushi may not match the reputation of chefs like Jun Sakamoto, but the all-round Japanese food experience – best sampled in the tasting menu (R$165 for five dishes; R$190 for six dishes – is one of the best in town. Alameda Fernão Cardim 39, Jardim Paulista (3251 5157/ aizome.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro.

Open noon-2.30pm; 6.30-11pm Mon-Fri; 6.30-11pm Sat. Prices small dishes R$18$47; tasting menu R$165-$190; lunch R$47-$120.

BRAZILIAN Amadeus The Masano

family’s passion for seafood has reached the second generation. Young chef Bella Masano practically grew up in Amadeus’s dining room, and then completed her studies at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris. For an unforgettable experience, go for the richly savoury moqueca da casa, a Bahian-style fish stew made with palm oil, fish and shrimp, cooked in a clay dish. A slightly lighter option is the camarão frisson no negro (flambéed shrimp with black rice).

Another great option is the dessert with banana and tamarind sauce, while the chocolate ice-cream and coffee liquor will leave you longing for more. Rua Haddock Lobo 807, Jardim Paulista (3061 2859/ restauranteamadeus.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-3pm, 6pmmidnight Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-4.30pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$58-$178; lunch R$72; couvert R$12-$17.

hope, given the hefty prices), and when prompted, the waiters will happily tell you more about the humble slave origins of this hearty black-bean-and-pork stew, guiding you through choices including the classic, old-fashioned version of the dish – nose-to-tail eating, Brazilian style – a more modern version, without the scary bits; and a ‘light’ version. Avenida Cidade Jardim 53, Jardim Europa (3061 2010/ bolinha.com.br). Open 11am-5pm Mon; 11am-midnight Tue-Sun. Main courses R$52-$97.

grape bruschetta (R$32). Once seated, the cheeseburger (R$35) is a well-proportioned, tasty hunk of ground beef that was only let down on our visit by lukewarm shoestring fries. The mozzarella-filled gnocchi (R$43) is a safe bet, deliciously rich and covered in a nutmeggy cream sauce and topped with crunchy bread crumbs.

Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (3467 3441/chez.com.br/chezmis). Open noon-1am Tue-Fri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 10am-10pm Sun. Main courses R$36$99; lunch R$26-$32.

stuffed tortelli with caramelised onion in black truffle sauce, on parmesan shavings; or go for the pescada amarela (grey snapper) in salmoriglio sauce with clams and asparagus crostini. The restaurant has a lovely vertical garden that’s particularly picturesque at lunchtime, when it’s bathed in natural light. Rua Oscar Freire 384, Jardim Paulista (3068 4393/emiliano.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonFri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat, Sun. Main courses R$43-$163; lunch R$53; couvert R$14-$15.

BRAZILIAN Capim Santo Morena Leite’s

BRAZILIAN D.O.M. D.O.M. is the fiefdom of tattooed celebrity chef Alex Atala, who absorbs molecular gastronomy tendencies and gives them a very Brazilian twist.

The food is balanced and harmonious, particularly in the tasting menus, and the vegetarian version is served with carefully selected juices and fruit essences to provide contrasts of colours and textures. If you’re prone to passing out at the sight of large bills, try the lunchtime executive menu, which gives a beautifully presented spin on home-made Brazilian food, using crunchy, toasted manioc farofa with beans, rice and chicken or John Dory. It sounds simple, but Atala takes it to a different level, earning the restaurant the number six ranking in the San Pellegrino world’s 50 best restaurants award, in 2013. Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardim Paulista (3088 0761/domrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; 7pm-1am Sat. Prices tasting menu R$242-$495 (dinner only); lunch R$82-$171; couvert R$38 (lunch only).

STEAKHOUSE A Figueira Rubaiyat

Jungle Book restaurant features two gardens. The front bar patio is reminiscent of Bahian beaches, with wooden benches and throw pillows; and the stunning back garden is fit for Amazonian royalty (to sit here, reservations are a must). For an appetiser, go for a pastelzinho (a small fried pastry) or duck rolls with tangerine sauce.

The couvert comes with crackers and vatapá (fish paste with dried shrimp and dendê oil). Try the shrimp with pupunha (palm fruit) served in a green coconut shell.

Last but not least, the waiters are attentive, warm, and entirely tuned in to the needs of the diners – they round out a perfectly divine dining experience. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 471, Jardim Paulista (3068 8486/capimsanto.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Tue-Fri; 12.30-4.30pm, 8pm-midnight Sat; 12.30-5pm Sun. Main courses R$43$79; lunch R$53-$77; couvert R$16.50.

CONTEMPORARY Chez MIS The modern

design aesthetic and a novel location in the garden of the MIS (Museu da Imagem e do Som) have made Chez MIS an instant hit with a fashionable crowd. So if you have to wait for a table, kick things off with a cocktail by the bar – though not, perhaps, the pisco sour (R$27), which was all pisco and not enough sour. Team your drink with the sublime cheesy fried polenta sticks (R$22) and goats cheese and

ITALIAN Emiliano Once you’ve sampled Emiliano’s fresh robalo (snook) in a savoury crust with hot peppers, accompanied by sautéed tomato, aubergine and courgette, you’ll come to see why this restaurant, which goes by the same name as the hotel that houses it, is considered to have one of the best chefs in the city at its helm. If pasta appeals, try the potato-

A huge 130-year-old fig tree dominates the dining area of A Figueira Rubaiyat, lending it an intimate, romantic air. Just a block away from Rua Oscar Freire, this is one of the São Paulo restaurants that is both architecturally significant and gastronomically excellent, famed for serving some of the best beef in the city and for catering to paulistano power couples and the financial elite.The appetiser of carpaccio di funghi in truffle oil is a must, as are the pães de queijo (cheese buns). A main course mainstay is the sumptuous picanha sumus – premium top sirloin. Rua Haddock Lobo 1738, Jardim Paulista (3087 1399/rubaiyat. com.br). Open noon-12.30am Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri, Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$78-$243; lunch R$65 (Mon-Thu); couvert R$26.

ITALIAN Gero Refinement is the watchword at Gero, the supposedly lower-key scion of the Fasano fine-Italiandining family, where polished shoes, impeccable manners and a reservation are recommended. Gero serves traditional Italian dishes with elegance, and a price tag most suited to special occasions or expense accounts. The interior design is as discreetly moneyed as the clientele, with a wine list sophisticated enough to delight connoisseurs. Sink into the leather armchairs while you peruse the menu – the roast duck and oozing risottos are good

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VEGETARIAN Apfel It’s food with a conscience at Apfel, whose philosophy goes beyond just vegetarianism: the restaurant’s cultural agenda includes hosting evening walks around the Centro as well as funding small theatre groups. Set in a delightful ivy-covered townhouse in Jardins, with a second location downtown, Apfel’s service is efficient and its friendly and the seasonallychanging menu spot on, featuring delights such as garlic mushrooms on wholemeal toast, and cauliflower gratin.

But take it from us: when the nhoque de mandioquinha recheado com queijo de cabra (sweet parsnip gnocchi with goat’s cheese filling) is on the menu, you’d be a fool to resist. Rua Bela Cintra 1343, Jardim Paulista (3062 3727/apfel.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação and 4, Paulista.

Open 11.30am-3pm, 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-4pm, 7.30-11.30pm Sat; 11.30am-4pm Sun. Main courses R$28-$38; lunch R$24. Other location Rua Dom José de Barros 99, Centro (3256 7909).

BRAZILIAN Bolinha Set up in 1946 by

taxi driver Affonso Paulillo, and now run by his two sons, Bolinha is all about feijoada. The service is top notch (as you’d

Food & Drink

Jardins

Rib tickler Celebrating one year in business, the minimalist restaurant Mimo has relaunched its menu. Expect more playful creations, such as this rack of lamb with a herb crust, fondant aubergine and a mint granita (R$72). See listings.

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Food & Drink

choices, though the word is that Gero has seen better culinary days. Rua Haddock Lobo 1629 (3064 0005/fasano.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; noon4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-4.30pm, 7pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$62$97; lunch R$86; couvert R$21.

FRENCH Le Jazz Brasserie As one of the best reasonably priced restaurants in town, there’s an almost constant throng waiting for tables outside this, the second branch of Le Jazz Brasserie. Here you’ll find the same awning, leather banquettes and wood furniture as in the original in Pinheiros, albeit with a higher ratio of designer bags in the clutches of the milling crowds. All the bistro classics are there – escargots, French onion soup, and croques of both the monsieur and the madame persuasion. There’s also beer on tap and rotisserie chicken, as well as cassoulet at weekends. On our last visit, we had an excellent goats’ cheese salad starter (R$22), though the house special – entrecôte steak (R$48.50) – was more raw than the requested rare, and the fries were lacking crunch. Rua Doutor Melo Alves, Jardim Paulista (3062 9797/lejazz.com.br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pm-1am Sat; 12.30pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$24-$70; couvert R$7.

BRAZILIAN Maní Tucked away on a classy,

quiet street in Jardins, Maní manages to be contemporary and sophisticated and yet artfully unpretentious. Whether you choose a table inside or out, you’re assured of an excellent meal amid the natural, earthy ambience of one of São Paulo’s most popular and innovative restaurants.

The modern cuisine is served here with flair, and chefs Daniel Redondo and Helena Rizzo deserve all the praise they’ve received for their creative, wide-ranging menu. Try their award-winning fish entrée served with tucupi and bananas; or the roast beef in a lapsang souchong crust.

Reservations strongly recommended. Rua Joaquim Antunes 210, Jardim Paulistano (3062 7458/manimanioca.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Fri; 1-4pm, 8.30pm-12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$53-$72; lunch R$39-44; couvert R$16-$19.

ITALIAN Margherita Allow yourself to be drawn to the brightly-lit, inviting aspect of this pizzeria, just off Avenida Paulista.

Inside, red-and-white checked tablecloths are reminiscent of a traditional Italian

Felipe Gombossy/press image

ITALIAN Girarrosto A jaw-dropping R$10 million was allegedly spent on this immense Italian eatery, which opened in early 2012 in the spot formerly home to one of the city’s best-loved bars, Pandoro. After a series of disappointing early reviews, the restaurant’s fortunes have been on the up since the arrival of Italian chef Salvatore Loi, who spent 13 years at the forefront of the Fasano before his move to Girarrosto.

Loi takes perfection to extremes. You’ll understand what we mean when you try the bigoli (thick strands of pasta, shaped using a special machine) with duck and juniper sauce (R$54). Avenida Cidade Jardim 60, Jardim Europa (3062 6000/ girarrosto.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pmmidnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri, Sat; noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight Sun (pizza only). Main courses R$41-R$-69; couvert R$12.50.

Crunch time Adding a little crunch to sashimi, the pan-Asian newcomer Tian’s empanado em sembei (R$35) is pieces of tuna coated in Japanese sembei rice crackers, fried and served with an egg and Sriracha chilli sauce. See listings.

pizzeria, though the menu also includes Brazilian touches such as requeijão (cream cheese) toppings. The namesake pizza is a must, while slightly more adventurous diners might like to try the Campesina, featuring aubergine, parmesan cheese and olives. Alameda Tiête 255, Jardim Paulista (2714 3000/margherita.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6.30pm-1.30am Sun-Thu; 6.30pm-2am Fri, Sat. Main courses R$42-$59.

ITALIAN Mercearia do Conde A tumble down the rabbit hole might just prepare you for Mercearia do Conde. The ceiling groans under a collection of bewinged angels and pink, wand-bearing fairies that gently rotate overhead, while the plates are gaily and wantonly mismatched. The food can be good, but is occasionally patchy and errs a little on the conventional side.

The chicken pie has long been a favourite of ours; but last time, pluckier, we went for duck with rice ‘old Lisbon style’, which came with shredded duck, cooked pear pieces and a dusting of garam masala – good and homely, but not revving up the taste buds too much. Rua Joaquim Antunes 217, Jardim Paulistano (3081 7204/merceariadoconde.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Wed; noonmidnight Thu; noon-1am Fri; 12.30pm1am Sat; 12.30-11pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$85; lunch R$45.

ECLECTIC Mimo Once your eyes adjust to the all-pervading white, small details come into focus at this minimalist restaurant – the copper finish covering the bar, the delicate flower arrangements, and a striking tree encased in glass. Each dish on the whimsical menu is described with no more detail than a list of ingredients, but arrives with the playful flourishes of contemporary cooking, in the form of jellies, foams and ingredients cooked sous vide. Whatever you do, don’t skip dessert – we savoured every mouthful of the hot chocolate soufflé topped with cardamom ice cream and salty, warm

caramel foam (R$17); and the fruit-andvegetable salad (R$17), with herbs and a zingy ball of passionfruit sorbet, all swimming in a melon consommé. Rua Caconde 118, Jardim Paulista (3052 2517/mimorestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm Mon, noon-3pm, 7.30-11pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Fri; 12.30pm-4pm, 7.30pm-midnight Sat; 12.30pm-4pm Sun. Main courses R$31-$61.50; lunch R$33-$36.80, couvert R$9-$12.

Italian and Brazilian dishes to the convivial tables in this colourfully converted Jardins home; but though pretty much everything is good here, with such a gap in the city for truly good Mexican, it only leaves us wondering ¿por qué? Rua Melo Alves 205, Jardim Paulista (3086 4774/ obarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-11.30pm Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 8pm12.30am Fri; 1-4.30pm, 8pm-12.30am Sat; 1-4.30pm Sun. Main courses R$39.90-$67; lunch R$21.90.

JAPANESE Mori Sushi / Ohka Platters of beautifully displayed sushi await diners at this bustling neighbourhood favourite in Jardins. Avoid the pricier dishes on the menu, and order the fixed-price sushi rodízio to sample slices of fresh sashimi and other Japanese-inspired delicacies, including flaming sushi (sashimi with cream cheese, doused in liquor and set on fire), bowls of shimeji mushrooms, and squid rings. If you like tempura or temaki hand rolls, just ask for them; they’re also included in the rodízio price.

The two-storey, stylishly-decked-out space is popular with groups and fills quickly, so arrive early or expect a wait. Rua da Consolação 3610, Jardim Paulista (3898 2977/morisushi.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm1am Thu, Fri; 12.30-3pm, 7pm-1am Sat; 12.30-3pm, 7-11pm Sun. Main courses R$40.50-$126; fixed price R$71-$79; lunch R$53.80.

ITALIAN Primo Basílico Well-heeled families wait patiently for tables on Sunday evenings at this popular yet relaxed spot, taking the edge off their hunger with bread stuffed with oozing buffalo cream cheese and zingy calabresa.

The restaurant is buzzing most other nights too, though getting a table doesn’t pose such a problem. Three tables outside offer an alfresco option, though most of the action is inside, where you can see the pizzas sliding in and out of a huge brick oven. The traditional pizza bases are ciabatta-esque – thick and doughy – or there’s a thin crust option too. Give the Brigitte a whirl if you’re feeling daring and you’ll discover what we did: that Brie, asparagus and honey is a surprisingly good combo. Committed carnivores should go for an Obelix, whose wild-boar sausage will satisfy any self-respecting Gaul.

Avenida Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1864, Jardim América (3082 8027/primobasilico. com.br). Open 6pm-12.30am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-12.30am Sun. Main courses R$48-$63.

ECLECTIC Obá There is a serious lack

of decent Mexican food in São Paulo – no doubt because of the serious lack of Mexicans. Restaurateur Hugo Delgado solves both problems: he’s a living, breathing chilango from Mexico City and, though sometimes hampered by inaccessibility to certain ingredients, he does a fabulous job on the portion of Obá’s menu that’s dedicated to his homeland – the carnitas (braised pork tacos), refried beans, guacamole and margaritas. The kitchen also sends out an array of Thai,

BURGERS Ritz Ritz has a hard time determining what city it’s in, and providing you can get in, you’ll also have a hard time believing that you’re still in São Paulo, and not in Paris or the East Village. It has the look of a French bistro with mirrors and red leather banquettes; and is popular with gay folk and trust-fund bohemians. As for the food, it’s best known for its great hamburgers and delicious pastas. For an

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action, in amongst the chattering diners.

On our last visit, the mignon de porco (pork tenderloin) with mini onions, red pepper and mini tomatoes was tangy, crispy and gloriously meaty, though it came sadly unaccompanied – follow our lead and order some of the delicious roasted vegetables and smooth, creamy mash as a side dish. Alameda Ministro Rocha Azevedo 72, Bela Vista (3284 6131/restaurantespot.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-Masp and Consolação. Open noon-3pm; 8pm-1am Mon-Sat. Main courses R$34-$71.

AMERICAN St. Louis Decked out in a

smart, kitsch Americana style, this small, unpretentious US-style burger joint is a comfortable, well-managed spot that doesn’t try to be too many things to too many people. The result? A damn good STEAKHOUSE Rodeio One of São burger that’s priced a touch more fairly Paulo’s original churrascarias, Rodeio than many other comparable São Paulo was for decades a favourite with the city’s burgers. Fans of poivre will genuflect wealthy elite. Until, that is, its glamour at the kitchen door after devouring the started to go up in the smoke of newer excellent Pepper Crust burger (R$28.50) competitors. Rodeio has hung on – 220g of pepper-charred beef with in there, and regained some Swiss cheese, grilled onions, of its original lustre with a crunchy potato sticks, pickles modernising makeover. Its and Dijon mayo. Paired with recently-rising fortunes saw the excellent fries and chased the opening of a second, with raspberry lemonade, a. slick branch, designed by it’s a combo that teeters isa Strin u L a ri illustrious architect Isay precariously on the brink of Gale e Art e S Weinfeld, inside the city’s shock and awe. Rua Batataes luxury Shopping Iguatemi 242, Jardim Paulista (3051 mall. Don’t miss the sliced 3435/stlouisburger.com.br). Open picanha (top sirloin) and biro-biro 6.30-10.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 6.30rice studded with bacon. Rua Haddock 11pm Tue-Fri; noon-4pm, 6.30-11.30pm Lobo 1498, Jardim Paulista (3474 1333/ Sat; 6.30-10.30pm Sun. Main courses rodeiosp.com.br). Open 11.30am-3.30pm, R$18-$57.

6.30pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 11.30amJewish Z Deli This run-of-the-mill midnight Sat; 11.30am-11pm Sun. Main albeit charming deli, with just a handful courses R$82-$150; couvert R$24.50.

Other location Shopping Iguatemi (See of tables and a self-service counter full Shopping listings). of delicious salads, is Jewish dining at its best. Gefilte fish can be had here not ITALIAN Serafina Beautiful people just on Passover, but all year round; or abound at this branch of a notionally for another taste of Eastern-European Italian New York restaurant. Pretty young cuisine, try the vareniks – breaded meats things seem not to mind waiting – and and fish. The roasted chicken (Z Deli seeing and being seen – for up to an frango) and the cheese gnocchi aren’t to hour or more on the front terrace, where be missed, either. The catch is that since chilled rosé and bruschetta make the the food tastes better than it looks, you’re wait more tolerable. Once past the queue, liable to accidentally overeat, and spend what Serafina is really about is good longer here than you expected. If you quality, reasonably priced Italian food. have the time and the appetite opt for the The menu options include imaginative all-you-can-eat buffet (R$45, or R$39 for and substantial salads as well as thinjust salad; R$55 on Saturdays), rather crust pizzas, pastas and meat and fish than the lunch menu (three hot dishes dishes, each with plenty of choice on the for R$39). And while the prices may be healthy to hearty scale. Serafina’s newer steep, this is the closest you’ll get to Katz’s branch, on the increasingly gourmet. Rua Deli outside of Manhattan. Alameda Pedroso Alvarenga in Itaim, commands Gabriel Monteiro da Silva 1350, Jardim a similar crowd and wait time. Alameda Paulistano (3064 3058). Open noonLorena 1705B, Jardim Paulista (3081 6pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat. Buffet 3702/serafinarestaurante.com.br). Open R$39-$55; set menu R$30-$39. noon-midnight Mon-Wed; noon-1am Thu-Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26-$75. Other locations Itaim Bibi Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1051, Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia (3079 1391).

STEAKHOUSE Ávila Steakhouse You’ll INTERNATIONAL Spot If São Paulo has be hard-pressed to miss Ávila Steakhouse a definitive see-and-be-seen restaurant, and its elegant façade if you drive through it’s Spot, one of the city’s hands-down Itaim. What’s not as evident, though, is classic restaurants. It’s centrally located that despite the name having been inspired – a handy place for lunch if you’re by the beautiful Romanesque city in on Avenida Paulista – and decorated Spain, the grill’s format and inclination brightly and stylishly, if simply, with is Argentinean, serving cuts of meat like all-round windows and a circular bar in bife ancho (rib eye steak), bife de chorizo the middle. Spot is an enduring Sampa (striploin) and ojo de bife (rib eye core favourite – so come prepared to wait, steak). But don’t miss the extraordinary over a drink at the bar or outside on the bife parrillero, the special house cut which terrace, for a table in the thick of the consists of the centre of the traditional

IN THE AREA

entrecôte. The double-height space with a glass roof is bright and sleek, though not dissimilar to an upmarket hotel lobby, packed out with suits at lunchtime, and out-of-town visitors from nearby hotels dining out in the evening. Rua Bandeira Paulista 524, Itaim Bibi (3071 0728/ avilasteakhouse.com.br). Open 11.30am3.30pm, 6-11.30pm Mon-Thu; 11.30am12.30am Fri, Sat; 11.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses R$63-$96; lunch R$52.90; couvert R$13.

BRAZILIAN Beth Cozinha de Estar

Beth is in her fifties and is almost always behind the self-service counter, helping her diners decide on the best homecooked option. Catering mostly to suits who work in Itaim Bibi, this buffet joint offers a selection of salads and dressings, fish, chicken and beef creations, and comforting sides such as spinach or corn in white sauce, kale, or grilled vegetables and bananas. Wednesdays and Saturdays feature the traditional feijoada, and a light version with the pork and black beans served separately. If you have room for dessert, you won’t be disappointed by the flan or the coconut mousse. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1061, Itaim Bibi (3073 0354/ bethcozinha.com.br). Open noon-3.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-4.30pm Sat. Prices fixedprice buffet R$52-$74.

AMERICAN Butcher’s Market Chalkboard walls, phonograph lampshades and meatpacking bric-abrac bring a slice of the Big Apple to the bustling Butcher’s Market, where carefully prepared gastronomic Americana – spicy

chicken wings, toasted marshmallow milkshakes, pork ribs with hash browns – can be scarfed down at prices just high enough to stave off addiction. Englishlanguage menu items include the succulent mushroom burger – a thick patty of grilled prime beef smothered with melted mozzarella and tasty, seasoned mushrooms – and artery-clogging but oh-so-good cheese chilli fries (aka chilli cheese fries in the USA). If you’re not the type to be kept waiting, the less-crowded lunchtime seating might be your best bet. It’ll also give you the rest of the day to work off those happily ingested calories. Rua Bandeira Paulista 164, Itaim Bibi (2367 1043/butchersmarket.com.br). Open noon3pm, 7pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat. Main courses R$23-$43; lunch R$30.

Food & Drink

appetiser, try the bolinhos de arroz (fried rice balls), a speciality you’re not likely to find outside of São Paulo. The portions are generous, and if you’re not too hungry, feel free to share your entrée – the penne mediterraneo is a great for-two option.

Although the tunes lean towards indie rock, the drinks are far from dive-bar prices (a caipirinha will set you back R$14.90).

Alameda Franca 1088, Jardim Paulista (3088 6808). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open noon-3.10pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Wed; noon-3.10pm, 8pm-1.30am Thu, Fri; 12.30pm-1.30am Sat; 12.30pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26.60-$56.60; Other lunch R$35.70-$45.80. locations Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 141, Itaim Bibi (3079 2725); Shopping Iguatemi, Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2232, Jardim Paulista (2769 6752).

CONTEMPORARY Cantaloup The

contemporary architect Arthur Casas, the name behind restaurants Kosushi and Kaá, has transformed this former bakery into an impressive restaurant space. Step through the 10-foot-high wooden door to a glass-roofed winter garden, and then on into the dining room, where the highceiling, exposed beams, white-washed brick and starched white tablecloths create a sophisticated, clean, industrial look.

The food, with roots in French and Italian cuisine, is given a well-presented, modern twist, and the wine cellar, on display in the restaurant, has 400 labels from 10 countries. Don’t leave without having coffee or you’ll miss the chance to taste the sublime petits fours. Rua Manuel Guedes 474, Itaim Bibi (3078 3445/cantaloup.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight

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Food & Drink

Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7.30pm-1am Fri; 7.30pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$39-$110; lunch R$61; couvert R$9.

noon-3pm, 7.30pm-midnight Fri; 1-4pm, 7.30pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$29-$99; lunch R$48; couvert R$13.50.

PERUVIAN Chifa Wok Of all possible fusion-food combinations, few feel as right as the type practised in Lima’s many ‘chifa’ restaurants, blending Chinese and Peruvian cuisine with artful simplicity. The pleasant, low-key Chifa Wok specialises, as its name suggests, in unpretentious dishes filled with fast-cooked, wok-fried goodies.

You can’t go wrong with a classic arroz chaufa (R$30-$36) – fried rice with a choice of meat or seafood. We went for the roast pork one to accompany a kam lu wantan (R$36) – a colourful jumble of flavours, featuring morsels of duck, chicken and pork flash fried with veggies and slivers of peach, topped with a tamarind sauce and a crown of light fried won tons. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 513, Itaim Bibi (4324 7868/chifawok.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; 1-4pm, 8-11pm Sat. Main courses R$20-$48; lunch R$30.

STEAKHOUSE Corrientes 348 At weekends, you’ll spot this steakhouse at least a block away thanks to the crowds milling about outside, drinking cold beers while they wait for a table. This joint is Argentinian by name and Argentinian by nature, down to the myriad authentic cuts of meat on the menu. The jury is out on whether the vacio (also known as the ‘corte especial 348’) reigns supreme over the bife de chorizo, but get a group together (each order feeds at least two) and you can decide for yourself.

Team your beef – which comes as bloody as you want it – with the papa tasso – crunchy fried potato slices. The pork ribs are the dish to go for as an alternative to beef, and the empanadas are said to be the best in São Paulo.

Exposed roof beams, wicker chairs, rustic wooden tables and plants lend this former neighbourhood bungalow a homely, traditional feel. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 348, Vila Olímpia (3849 0348/restaurante348.com.br). Open noon-3.45pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$64.50-$181. Other locations Rua Bahia 364, Higienópolis (4306 0348); Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 32, Pinheiros (3032 6348).

CONTEMPORARY Clos de Tapas The

MEDITERRANEAN Enoteca Saint Vin

Saint Hundreds of wine bottles line the high-ceilinged entrance hall of this pintsized, candle-lit restaurant, with just 12 tables. Keeping things simple on the food front, limited Spanish and Italian-inspired options are written up on a chalkboard and presented at the table between each course. The wine list, on the other hand, is extensive, with organic and biodynamic wines from across South America. Ask the sommelier for help, though the best bottles come complete with robust price tags (up

STEAKHOUSE Jardineira Grill One of the

first São Paulo steakhouses to run a fixedprice rodízio system, Jardineira Grill serves good quality meat, though churrascaria purists will need to avert their eyes from the sushi and seafood in the salad buffet.

Although this has been imitated and is more the rule than the exception, the meat is still the restaurant’s main draw, serving 20 different cuts to its clientele.

And with top-notch service to boot, make sure to ask the servers for generous portions of fried banana and french fries and they’ll be happily obliged. Avenida dos Bandeirantes 1001, Vila Olímpia (3048 0299/jardineiragrill.com.br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noonmidnight Sat, noon-11pm Sun. Fixed price R$105.

MIDDLE EASTERN Gibran There’s no

shortage of Middle Eastern delights in São Paulo, from humble lanchonete kibes and esfihas to some very fine dining establishments. But with a menu of fresh, healthy Lebanese and other specialities, Itaim’s Gibran, more than most, serves the sort of thing you might find in a contemporary Beirut dining room – a million miles from the heavier, oilier dishes of much diaspora cookery. Soft pillowy esfihas with cheese and basturme – an Armenian form of pastrami – and the deeply savoury mohamara – a red-pepperand-walnut dip, less spicy than the classic Turkish version, are some of the don’tmiss standouts at this bright, airy bistro.

Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 296, Itaim Bibi (2083 1593/restaurantegibran.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm MonThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Fri-Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$14-$38; lunch R$22-$30.

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kitchen at Clos de Tapas carries some weight in the form of the experience of its two chefs, the Brazilian Ligia Karazawa.

The way to go here is the six-course tasting menu (R$150), which rivals anything to which Michelin might attach one of its coveted stars. Give yourself up to the experience and journey through a meal that’s studded with standouts, like the queijo coalho served with a spectrum of tastes (spicy with grac de bode peppers, and sour with lime foam), or carvão de bacalhau (salt cod with an almond and squid ink coating). Along the way, your other senses are tickled too in moments that include the arrival of a bowl of moss, brought to life with dry ice to fill the table with the aroma of a damp forest. Rua Domingos Fernandes 548, Vila Nova Conceiçao (3045 2154/closdetapas.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7.30-11pm Mon-Thu;

to $350). Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 811, Vila Nova Conceição (3846 0384/ saintvinsaint.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri; 7pm-midnight Sat. Main courses R$45-$99; lunch R$49; couvert R$9.90.

Seven samurai Keeping it fresh for summer, Aizomê has revamped its dinner tasting menu. The seven-course taste of Japan takes in surf and turf, as in this loin of lamb stuffed with Eryngii mushrooms and shiso leaves. R$190. See listings.

FRENCH/ITALIAN Kaá Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek, with its eight lanes of traffic, might be the last place you’d expect to find one of the city’s most tranquil restaurants.

But behind an anonymous white wall lies a veritable Garden of Eden. Narrow and tall, the dining space at Kaá is dominated by a spectacular 8m-high and 70m-long wall covered in more than 7,000 plants native to Brazil’s Atlantic forest. Architect Arthur Casas’s aim here was to transport the diner away from the urban chaos: once inside, there’s no visual connection with the city outside. To get the full experience of rainforest elegance, a table outside must be reserved in advance. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 279, Vila Olímpia (3045 0043/ kaarestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon-5pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$42-$68; lunch R$56; couvert R$13.

PERUVIAN La Mar Something about the dining room at La Mar makes it one of the most pleasant spaces we’ve had the good fortune to dine in recently. Large, bright and high-ceilinged, with rich splashes of electric turquoise, the delightful surroundings prepare you for the equally fresh, zingy flavours of the house speciality: ceviche. But not so fast: order up a Pisco sour as you check the menu.

Go for the ceviche tasting menu if you’d like a selection; but whatever you do, don’t miss the dazzling Nikkei ceviche, with tuna, and marvel at the rich, sweet and savoury flavour of the sesame and leche-de-tigre (tigers’ milk) sauce. The desserts are less of a triumph – take it from us and give the gloopy, overly sweet suspiro Limeño a wide berth. Rua Tabapuã 1410, Itaim Bibi (3073 1213/lamarcebicheria.com). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon3pm, 8pm-1am Fri; noon-4pm, 8pm-1am Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Main courses R$35$60; lunch R$42.

JAPANESE Nagayama Proudly serving some of the tenderest, freshest fish in town, the thoroughly authentic Nagayama isn’t cheap; but it’s a pure delight, from the cosy, comfortable space and the welcoming service to the virtuoso sushi and sashimi.

The delicious sushi and sashimi set for two (R$145) is easily enough for three; and try, too, the exquisite baterá – it’s a pressed rice disc jewelled with chives and dotted with tiny crunches of salmon roe, topped with even crunchier tempura (R$56.50 for two).

Brilliant. Rua Bandeira Paulista 355 and 369, Itaim Bibi (3079 7553/nagayama. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11.30pm Mon; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Thu; noon-3pm, 7pm-12.30am Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-12.30am Sat. Main courses R$56.50-$159.50; lunch R$45.50.

Other location Rua da Consolação 3397, Jardim Paulista (3064 0110).

AMERICAN P.J. Clarke’s Longing for the Big Apple? You can track down a karaoke bar in Liberdade and butcher a few stanzas of ‘New York, New York’, or hit this São Paulo clone of the famous Manhattan establishment once frequented by Frank Sinatra. The NYC original created the ‘Cadillac’ burger, which was not only a favourite of the Chairman of the Board but also of Marilyn Monroe. PJ Clarke’s attempts to recreate (quite successfully) the post-war glory years sanctum of American authenticity, with tables draped in redchecked cloth – the old-style diner even had its chandeliers shipped over from

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put the expansion of this Buenos Airesinspired restaurant down to clever marketing, if it weren’t for the fact that the food here is seriously good. There are now four branches in São Paulo – the most charming being the one on the top of Shopping Cidade Jardim, with views out over the city – as well as in Campinas and Brasília. Don’t miss Pobre Juan’s eponymous steak – a juicy top layer from the strip loin. Rua Comendador Miguel Calfat 525, Vila Olímpia (3845 4965/ pobrejuan.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Fri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Main courses R$62.90-$105; couvert R$13.90. Other locations Shopping Cidade Jardim, Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Cidade Jardim (3552 3150); Rua Tupi 979, Higienópolis (3825 0917).

CONTEMPORARY Ruella A quaint

pedestrian alleyway, lined with potted plants and tiled murals, doubles as Ruella’s entrance and alfresco dining space, scattered with a handful of tables. Inside, the ample two-storeyed space is crammed with a hodge podge of colourful, cutesy furnishings. On the menu, you’ll find delicious salads, in combinations like brie, artichokes and frisée, bistro classics like steak tartare, and a selection of pastas.

This is a good spot for a date (though it would be better still if the lights were dimmed a notch), with paper tablecloths and crayons on hand should the small talk dry up. Rua João Cachoeira 1507, Vila Nova Conceição (3842 7177/ruella. com.br). Open 8pm-1am Mon-Sat; 1-5pm Sun. Prices Main courses R$48-$68; cover R$18.90. Other locations Rua Vupabussú 199, Pinheiros (3097 9257).

ASIAN Tian Bringing a mix of cuisines to its menu, with nods to Thailand, China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam and the Philippines, Tian is a sleek, contemporary spot: pink glass separates the kitchen from the dark, sexy dining space, with a large window looking onto the pavement. The way to go is by ordering a sequence of dishes to share – start with the delectable squid rings fried in a beer-based take on tempura batter, with a kimchi sauce (R$22). The Tom kha, a classic Thai chicken soup, is smooth and intoxicating (R$20). For wok dishes, try the rice with Chinese sausage, shrimp, ginger and fried egg (R$25). Round off your personalised tasting menu with something sweet, like the koaniew mamuang (R$12) – moti rice with a coconut-and-mango sauce. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 36, Itaim Bibi (2389 9399/tianrestaurante.com.br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Wed; noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight Thu, Fri; noon-4pm, 7pmmidnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Prices Sharing dishes R$16-$38.

Ibirapuera & Moema ITALIAN Bráz We have heard it said that the pizza in São Paulo is so good, even the Italians are jealous. It’s a bold statement, but if you’re prepared to give it any credence at all, Bráz is probably a good place in which to make up your own mind, having been voted the city’s best pizzeria seven times by Veja. A typical meal, at the original Moema joint or any of the three other locations, should start with the house-speciality pão de linguiça (warm sausage bread) dipped in spiced-up olive oil followed by any number of outstanding pizzas. There doesn’t appear to be a bad choice on the menu; but standouts include the Fosca (smoked ham, mozzarella and catupiry cheese) and the four-cheese Favorita, with taleggio, pecorino, caciocavallo and gorgonzola. Rua Graúna 125, Moema (5561 0905/casabraz.com. br). Open 6.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 6.30pm-12.30am Thu; 6.30pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6.30pm-midnight Sun. Medium pizza R$44-$61. Other locations Rua Vupabussu 271, Pinheiros (3037 7973); Rua Sergipe 406, Higienópolis (3255 8090).

MEXICAN Sí Señor This lively Tex-

Mex themed bar is equally popular with couples, big groups and families. The menu varies slightly at each of the chain’s nine branches, but expect the usual cheeseand-bean-based suspects like nachos, tacos and burritos, accompanied by a fun, fairly lowbrow selection of cocktails. A lunch buffet lineup adds interest to the menu, while any main course ordered on a Wednesday, Thursday or Sunday evening earns you a voucher to have the same again free on a Monday or Tuesday.

Arriba! Alameda Jauaperi 626, Moema (3476 4650/sisenor.com.br). Open noon3pm; 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-2am Sat; 1pm-midnight Sun. Main courses R$25-$85 (for two); lunch R$32-$42.

Other locations Citywide.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana VEGETARIAN Alfredo Despite being just a skip and a hop from Avenida Paulista, this vegetarian lunch spot has been mostly overlooked by the lunchtime crowds – although not by Captain Sensible of the Damned, who reviewed the place for us

tadeu brunelli/press image

ARGENTINIAN Pobre Juan You could

STEAKHOUSE Varanda Grill This steakhouse took years to earn the almost unanimous approval it enjoys todays among the city’s restaurant critics. On Time Out São Paulo’s early visits, the service was affable but standards in the kitchen were careless, with steak served dry on two occasions. We finally reached red-meat nirvana, however, at Varanda’s new sibling inside the recently opened luxury shopping mall – JK Iguatemi. The deliciously juicy steak and impeccably timed service were worthy of a champion.

Rua General Mena Barreto 793, Jardins (3887 8870/varandagrill.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Thu; noon-3.30pm, 7-11pm Fri; noon-6pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-5pm Sun. Main courses R$64.50-$86.50; lunch R$87.50; couvert R$20.90. Other locations Shopping JK Iguatemi, Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, Vila Olímpia.

Food & Drink

New York. The ambience fits the home fries and the delicate onion rings perfectly.

For dessert, the strawberry and raspberry cheesecake is exceptional, and short of flying 11 hours to Junior’s in Brooklyn, you won’t find anything else quite like it. Rua Doutor Mário Ferraz 568, Itaim Bibi (3078 2965/pjclarkes.com.br). Open noon-midnight Mon-Thu; noon-1am Fri; noon-1am Sat; 9.30am-midnight Sun. Main courses R$26-$47; lunch R$37.

Other location Rua Oscar Freire 497, Jardim Paulista (2579 2765).

Sticky situation Anticuchos, Peruvian marinated meat skewers, are the theme for a limited-edition menu at Killa. Go for ox heart, chicken, octopus, vegetables beef or a mix of meats. 8 April - 4 May. R$28 for three. See listings. on his visit in April 2012. The new branch of the Alfredo that has been delighting veggies for over sixty years downtown is reassuringly unchanged: pay by weight for your pick of delicious salads and hot dishes, or go fixed price for all you can eat.

Happily, Alfredo do not renounce flavour along with flesh: they make the most of beans, quinoa, pasta and rice in their hot dishes and offer a selection of highly quaffable hot drinks for your post-prandial reverie, including ginger tea and dark, strong ‘coffee’ made from roasted corn.

Alameda Ribeirão Preto 160, Bela Vista (3251 4070). Open 11am-3pm. Prices R$31.90 per kilo; buffet R$21.90. Other location Largo do Café 14, 2nd floor, Sé, (3104 9970).

JAPANESE Aska The sun has not yet set on one of the few remaining, original Japanese ramen houses in Brazil, but get here quickly before it does. Lamen Aska is no slick Momofuku or Wagamama, but rather a tiny restaurant in the heart of little Japan, and an authentically retro place in which to spend your lunchtime. Here you can order from 12 varieties of the ramen dish for around R$12 each, with speciality pork and vegetable gyozas at R$8. It’s popular, and there are often queues, but it’s worth the wait – if only to be transported to a time at the turn of the century, when recent immigrants to the city crowded

hundreds of such ramen houses. Rua Galvão Bueno 466, Liberdade (3277 9682). Metrô 1 Liberdade. Open 11am2pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$12-$13. BARGAIN ASIAN Bueno This izakaya (Japanese resto-bar) used to be one of Liberdade’s best-kept secrets, but the chef, owner and friendly former sumo wrestler, Fernando Kuroda, relocated with his team in 2012 to a larger, more upscale setting in Jardins. The space has ample seating, with stools at the bar to watch Kuroda at work, or rooms upstairs for a little more privacy. The menu is thankfully pretty much unchanged, though there’s now also teishoku at lunchtime – a Japanese set meal with miso soup, rice, vegetables and grilled fish or meat. Our favourite main is the okonomiyaki – a fried cabbage and pumpkin pancake topped with tom ka sauce and katsuobushi – dancing fish flakes. Or maybe it’s the isiyaki bibimpap (R$32) – a Korean dish served in a piping hot stone bowl, filled with rice, vegetables, beef and topped with a raw egg. For afters, try the green tea ice-cream or linger over a shot of schochu while Kuroda closes up for the night. Alameda Santos 835, Jardim Paulista (2389 8035/izakayabueno.com.br).

Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-3.30pm, 6-11pm Sat Main courses R$10-$32. No credit cards.

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CHINESE Chi Fu The clientele here, almost exclusively Chinese, sit at vast tables with a minimum of six diners at each (memo to self: it’s not the spot for a romantic date).

There are a paltry 201 dishes to choose from on the telephone-directory-sized menu – it’s just that if you can’t speak Mandarin, it’s going to come down to pointing at the images on the menu and hoping for the best. The exotica comes at a price (R$180 or so), but for the mains, Chi Fu is luxuriously cheap. Praça Carlos Gomes 200, Liberdade (3112 1698).

Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 11am-4pm, 6-10pm Mon-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat, Sun. Main courses R$20-$100. BARGAIN KOREAN Cho Sun Ok Korean-food

virgins can’t go wrong at this Liberdade local: just order the Korean barbecue.

It comes with sweet beef and a huge helping of mushrooms and vegetables, cooked right there at the table (R$85), and is served with an array of side dishes including kimchi (fermented vegetables).

Pure shots of Soju (R$24, 360ml bottle), Korea’s national tipple – a kind of smooth saké, distilled from cereals – are de rigueur. Thankfully for your brain cells, the evening session closes early; but Cho Sun Ok also does a weekday executive lunch (R$48) with a spreads of hot and cold dishes chosen by the chef. Avenida da Aclimação 502, Liberdade (3271 9621/3208 2116). Open noon-3pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sun. Main courses R$29$50; lunch R$48.

STEAKHOUSE Dinho’s The star of the meaty menu at Dinho’s is the US-style prime rib – all 700g of it, packed with flavour and an immense Fred Flintstonestyle bone. The steakhouse, which was recently given a modernising makeover, draws a lunchtime crowd of top execs from the nearby Avenida Paulista. For a younger crowd, head to the former Mabella e Ton Ton in Itaim Bibi, owned by the same family and rebranded in 2012 as Dinho’s Steak House (Rua Jerônimo Da Veiga 153). Alameda Santos 45, Paraíso (3016 5333/dinhos.com.br).

Open 11.30am-3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Mon; 11.30am-3pm, 7pm-1am Tue-Fri; 11.30am-1am Sat; 11.30am-6pm Sun. Main courses R$120-$135; feijoada lunch buffet R$105 (Wed, Sat). Other

location Rua Jerônimo Veiga 153, Itaim Bibi (3079 1049).

JAPANESE Espaço Kazu This Japanese deli/bistro sets out to centralise an array of Japanese specialities into one unintimidating space. It breaks down like this: the main dining space (main courses R$23-$35) is a busy, Japanese-style cafeteria specialising in udon (noodles), yakitori (skewered chicken) and teppanyaki (irongrilled meats and fish), as well as sushi.

Upstairs, there’s Kazu Sake Emporium – a straight-out-of-Shibuya sake bar boasting over 100 types of sipping sakes (R$25$450) and Go!Go!Curry, which whips out a small menu of Japanese curries (R$26-$38), the highlight being the kanazawa curry – perfectly-breaded pork swimming in a mild, mud-hued curry sauce. The latter was authentic (the sauce is imported) and surprisingly tasty, but may seem a tad pricey for what is essentially Japanese fast food. Rua Thomaz Gonzaga 84, Liberdade (3208 6179/kazusaopaulo.com.br).

Open 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat; 11am-3pm, 6-9pm Sun. Main courses R$25-$42.

JAPANESE Shin-Zushi It might be set on an isolated Paraíso corner away from Liberdade, São Paulo’s traditional Japanese neighbourhood, but Shin-Zushi still delights fans of Japanese food, and was awarded the best sushi in town by Estado de São Paulo’s demanding Paladar gastronomy magazine. The sushi is cut from top quality fish and it shows; while the rice dumpling, made from authentic Japanese grains, crumbles deliciously on the tongue. There’s also a good range of imported delicacies – if your wallet will stretch to it, try at least one toro tuna sushi – an unforgettable, if greasy, piece of tuna belly. Rua Afonso de Freitas 169, Paraíso (3889 8799). Metrô 1 or 2, Paraíso.

Open 11.30am-2pm, 6-10.30pm MonSat. 6-10pm Sun. Prices sushi set for one R$120-$280; lunch R$35; couvert R$10.

BRAZILIAN Sobaria It might seem

unusual to find soba noodles heading up the menu of a restaurant specialising in food from Mato Grosso do Sul. But soba is standard street food in cities like Campo Grande, where Japanese immigrants settled at the turn of the 20th century. The noodles are served with strips of cooked egg, grated ginger and spring onions in a bowl of steaming, meaty broth (R$24-$28).

Other specialities include the comforting sopa paraguaia (Paraguayan soup, R$20) – a paradoxically solid corn cake made with cheese and onion – and the tender though slightly over-salted cupim ao leite – strips of meat from the hump of the zebu cow – served with rice and manioc chips. Rua Áurea 343, Vila Mariana (5084 8014).

Open 10am-11pm Mon-Thu; 10ammidnight Fri-Sun. Main courses R$22BARGAIN $38; lunch R$17.90-$21.90.

ITALIAN Speranza This is one of the most famous pizzerias in the city, founded in the late-1950s in Bixiga, one of the city’s Italian neighbourhoods per definizione.

Order a hunk of sausage bread as a starter, pending the arrival of the pizza of your dreams. Because take it from us: the pizza marinara DOC and the margherita caprese – made with an exquisite tomato sauce, all Italian ingredients and within the norms established by the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana – are the kind of pizza you could find yourself dreaming of, once

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Food & Drink

ITALIAN Cantina Roperto When choosing a restaurant from a street chockfull of options like Bixiga’s 13 de Maio, the time-honoured trick of opting for the one with the longest queue is not one for the hungry. But for those willing to be patient, the huge portions of excellent pasta at this old-school classic are well worth the wait. At Sunday lunch, expect a roaringly full restaurant (and up to an hour’s wait); but once you’re seated, the good couvert and the poignant pictures of the once-semi-famous on the walls should keep you entertained until the mains arrive. Each pasta dish is plenty for two: give the spaghetti with homemade pesto or the carbonara a whirl, though nonBrazilian palates may find the penne alla puttanesca over-salted. Choose your wine with care: some of the Italian reds can be an unwelcomingly attention-grabbing part of the meal. Rua 13 de Maio 634, Bixiga (3288 2573/cantinaroperto.com.br). Open 11.30am-midnight Mon-Thu; 11.30-1am Fri, Sat; 11.30am-11.30pm Sun. Main courses R$29-$130 (for two); couvert R$7-$9.50.

Dressing up French bistro L’Aperô’s new De Meaux salad (R$44) is packed with goodies, including ham, brie, apple, nuts, croûtons and sautéed potatoes. you’ve sampled one, for a very, very long time. Rua 13 de Maio 1004, Bela Vista (3288 8502/pizzaria.com.br). Open 6pm1.30am Mon-Thu; 6pm-1.30am Fri, Sat; 6pm-1am Sun. Main courses R$47-$68.

Other location Avenida Sabiá 786, Moema (5051 1229).

INDIAN Tandoor With only a handful of

Indian restaurants in São Paulo, curry cravings can be hard to satisfy unless you go the home-cooked route. However, with fresh flavours and an impressive range of dishes, Tandoor is a good choice. To try a good mix, go for the meat-based thali – a mixed platter that includes rice, samosas, lentils, raita, lamb curry and tandoori chicken – the latter clearly cooked in a genuine clay oven. Our favourite dish, though, was the perfectly spiced chicken karahi – a genuine taste of India. Our only criticisms were the over-cooked naan bread and a less-than-lively atmosphere.

Though given the lack of competition, this is probably your best bet for a curry fix in São Paulo. Rua Doutor Rafael de Barros 408, Paraíso (3885 9470/tandoor.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight Sat; noon-4pm, 7-10pm Sun. Main courses R$25.90$55.90; lunch buffet R$29.90.

STEAKHOUSE Templo da Carne

Marcos Bassi If Brazil still had a monarchy, the late Marcos Bassi just

might have been granted a knighthood for making butchery a noble craft. Bassi’s near-encyclopaedic knowledge made him synonymous with top quality meat in São Paulo – he ran courses on the subject, and sold cuts of beef and other Bassi-branded gourmet products in top supermarkets across town. The restaurant that carries his name serves the signature dishes fraldinha (flank steak), as well as bom-bom (a cut taken from the heart of a rump steak). Rua Treze de Maio 668, Bela Vista (3805 4284/marcosbassi.com.br).

Open noon-midnight Mon-Sat; noon-6pm Sun. Main courses R$80-$118; couvert R$19.80.

JAPANESE Uo Katsu Once upon a time it was a fishmongers; today, Uo Katsu is a restaurant offering delicious sashimi charged by weight, with the sushi priced by unit. One of Paraíso’s hidden gems, the place is simplicity itself, with communal tables and footstools for seats; but the fish is always fresh – and all for a very reasonable price. Leave a tip when you pay to hear them call ‘caixinha!’, at which point everyone behind the counter will thank you. It’s always crowded at lunchtime, so arrive early or be prepared to wait.

Rua Manoel da Nóbrega 1180, Paraíso (3051 5855) Open 10am-6pm Tue-Fri; 10am-4pm Sat. Prices sashimi (per 100g) R$6-$20; sushi (per piece) R$1.80-$8.50.

BARGAIN

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BURGERS H3 Hamburgology Treating

the pursuit of the perfect patty as a science, Hamburgology H3 has branches open across ten São Paulo shopping malls.

Each hamburger contains 200 grams of meat. But don’t plan on getting your hands dirty: burgers are served here without a bun – and with cutlery. You can team your burger with a choice of sides: fries, salad or – gasp – rice. There’s also a menu of sauce options to top off your burger.

Try the H3 Tuga, a homage to the chain’s Portuguese origins: the burger comes topped with a fried egg and the sauce is made with a reduction of beer, garlic and bay leaves. Avenida Roque Petroni Júnior 1089, Morumbi (4003 4132/h3.com/br).

Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sun. Burgers R$15.45-$22.95 (includes fries). Other locations Citywide VEGETARIAN Recanto Vegetariano Overshadowed by skyscrapers along Avenida Berrini, this pleasant, all-inclusive vegetarian buffet serves some of the best organic food in town. Recanto Vegetariano exemplifies the energy of natural food lovers the world over: frustrated by the lack of fresh ingredients, these enterprising locals decided not only to open their own restaurant, but to also supply it with their own homegrown organic vegetables. Rua Flórida 1442, Brooklin (5506 8944/recantovegetariano. com.br). Open 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$26-$29.

No credit cards.

ITALIAN Vicolo Nostro Hidden amongst the gleaming corporate towers of Berrini, Vicolo Nostro is one of the few quality restaurants in the area that opens beyond lunchtime. The vast terracotta-coloured space, with creepers growing up the walls, is popular for power lunches and business dinners, but not exclusively so. Expect authentic Italian food: it won the Ospitalità Italiana seal of approval in 2011 for following the traditions of Italian cuisine to the letter. It’s a touch on the pricey side, but if you’re good for it, the charm and good food make this an excellent choice for toasting that million-dollar contract. Rua Jataituba 29, Brooklin (5561 5287/vicolonostro.com.br).

Open noon-3pm, 7pm-midnight MonThu; noon-3pm, 7pm-1am Fri; noon4.30pm, 7pm-1am Sat; noon-4.30pm Sun.Main courses R$42-$95; lunch R$48-$58; couvert R$18.

milk-and-egg pudding – are delicious..

Rua Azevedo Soares 1580, Tatuapé (2293 1010/bacalhoeiro.com.br). Open noon3.30pm, 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri; noon-1am Sat; noon-5pm Sun Main courses R$58$98; lunch R$39; couvert R$17.

0791); Avenida Moreira Guimarães 964, Moema (5056 1795); Travessa Casalbuono 120 (Shopping Center Norte), Vila Guilherme (2089 1736); Rua Augusta 2077, Jardim Paulista (3062 2223).

PIZZA Castelões This classic Italian

SPANISH Maripili Paulistanos in search of

restaurant, located in one of the city’s traditional Italian neighbourhoods, was founded in 1924, and its dusty decor and antique pictures give it an authentically nostalgic feel that many newer pizzerias try and fail to copy. The Castelões pizza, with handmade sausage and mozzarella, is recommended, as is the house margherita; but no matter which one you pick, rest assured that the dough will be light, the crust scorched and sensual, the tomato sauce packed with basil, and it’ll be topped off with cheese of impeccable quality. Rua Jairo Góis 126, Brás (3229 0542). Metrô 3, Brás. Open noon-4pm, 7pm-midnight daily. Main courses R$39-$64; couvert R$9.

The South STEAKHOUSE Fogo de Chão Brazil’s

best-known barbecued meat franchise, Fogo de Chão opts for an authentic Southern approach. So unlike some rodízios, Brazilian steak house restaurants, they don’t bother mucking up the menu with irrelevant sushi: just the best cuts of Brazilian meat, like picanha, fraldinha and maminha. Grab your pincers and select the bits you like the look of from the big chunks of deliciously salted flesh the waiters bring around. Note that Fogo has one of the most extensive wine lists in the city. For dessert, try the chocolate mousse with port. Avenida Santo Amaro 6824, Santo Amaro (5524 0500/fogodechao.com. br). Open noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight MonFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun. Fixed price R$108 (w/out meat R$87). Other locations Avenida dos Bandeirantes 538, Vila Olímpia (5505

authentic Spanish grub head straight for Maripili – a small, simple restaurant whose owner, chef and waiting staff all have Spanish roots. Try a pintxo de tortilla and follow it up with a nice cup of espresso; then close your eyes and imagine you’re in Madrid – because this potato tortilla has all the volume, texture and moisture you’d find at any good Spanish diner. Maripili also serves a very good gazpacho and rabo de toro (oxtail), cooked in red wine. Rua Alexandre Dumas 1152, Santo Amaro (5181 4422/maripili.com.br). Open noon5pm, 6-11pm Tue-Fri; noon-5pm, 7-11pm Sat; noon-4pm Sun. Main courses R$10-$34.

VEGETARIAN Moinho de Pedra

Frustrated vegetarians will be in for a pleasant surprise at Tatiana Cardoso’s elegant restaurant. The word is out about her gourmet take on healthy veggie food, and the lunchtime queues form early. Cardoso trained in a number of vegetarian restaurants in San Francisco before opening her own place, where she combines creativity with seasonal ingredients. Head straight to the counter where you can choose from one of two daily specials – served with either salad or soup for R$35 or R$45 on Saturdays – or another main course option from the blackboard. White bean stews, grilled courgette tart, and mandioquinha (sweet parsnips) gnocchi with a fresh tomato sauce are just a few of the highlights. Rua Francisco de Morais 227, Santo Amaro (5181 0581/ moinhodepedrarestaurante.com.br).

Open 8.30-11am, noon-3.30pm MonFri; 9-11am, noon-4pm Sat. Prices set menu R$35-$45.

The North

Food & Drink

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini

BRAZILIAN Mocotó Located in the anonymous mass of higgledy-piggledy houses in the far northeastern suburbs, what it takes to eat at Mocotó is time, both in getting there and waiting for a table; so come with patience and a hearty appetite.

The restaurant’s young chef, Rodrigo Oliveira, creatively updates traditional North Eastern dishes such as baião de dois (black eyed peas, rice and a rennet cheese) or carne de sol – sun-cured beef – served with a whole head of garlic and baby chillies on the side. Oliveira even makes his own pork scratchings – torresmo. To finish, don’t miss the homemade ice-cream studded with pieces of rapadura – a solid fudge of unrefined sugarcane juice. And a shot or two of cachaça, don’t you think? – to aid digestion, of course. Avenida Nossa Senhora do Loreto 1100, Vila Medeiros (2951 3056/mocoto.com.br). Open noon-11pm Mon-Fri; 11.30am-11pm Sat; 11.30am-5pm Sun. Main courses R$16.90-$89.90 (for two).

BRAZILIAN O Compadre The Lar

Center shopping mall, which mostly sells furniture, may seem an odd spot to find a restaurant, but O Compadre is popular, nonetheless. During the weekend the vast space packs out with families, and it serves as a handy choice for visitors to the immense, glassy Expo Center Norte convention centre nearby. In contrast, the restaurant’s rustic Brazilian farm theme comes complete with wooden rafters and wagon wheels. Fill up your plate at the buffet – there are sixty dishes, including beans, pastas, moquecas (fish stew) and salads. For grilled meats, order your favourite cut – top sirloin cap (picanha) and entrecôte are good bets – from the chef manning the charcoal grill at the centre of the buffet. Avenida Otto Baumgart 500, Vila Guilherme (2252 3131/compadre.com. br). Open noon-4pm, 7pm-11.30pm MonFri; noon-midnight Sat; noon-5.30pm.

Price buffet R$59.90-$66.90.

PORTUGUESE Bacalhoeiro Tatuapé, in São Paulo’s endless Zona Leste, or East Zone, has been one of São Paulo’s fastest growing bairros in recent years, with deluxe real estate shooting up all over the place. It’s good news for gourmets, thanks to the ambitious new restaurants that just keep opening. This relaxed, elegant restaurant is one of them, and it serves a classic of Portuguese cuisine: bachalhau (salt cod). Kick things off with the octopus starter, fried in bacon fat with coarse salt, followed by the perfectly-salted bacalhau a lagareiro – salt cod with golden onion, served with garlic slices, broccoli, green olives and baked potato. For dessert, both the sweet rice powdered with cinnamon and the delicate sericaria do Alentejo – a

elvis fernandes/press image

Brás, Mooca & Tatuapé

Going green In line with its seasonal approach, the buzzy Brado has added new dishes to its eclectic menu. Gazpacho (R$16) and an asparagus risotto with brie (R$38, see photo) keep it veggie friendly.

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Bars & Cafés Reviews

Bar listings

Toca do Coelho

How to use the listings This section lists our pick of São Paulo’s bars, updated to include new spots and rotate in other favourites.

We visits bars anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks. For each bar, we give the cost of a beer and a caipirinha, a cover charge or a minimum spend at the bar if applicable. Note that a cover charge sometimes includes credit at the bar. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

Francois Léger-Savard/press image

NEW means the bar has opened in the last few months. is for highly recommended. means the bar is popular with a gay crowd. means the menu has full meal options is for regular live music. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Bottled up Clusters of beer crowd the bar and scores of cachaças and other spirits line Toca do Coelho’s walls

For satisfying bar food, hard-to-find microbrews and a long cachaça list, head down to Toca do Coelho, says CM Gorey Considering it’s been around since 1970, we’re a little horrified to admit that we only spotted Toca do Coelho fairly recently. We blame the fact that it’s lodged on one of Rua Teodoro Sampaio’s more nondescript blocks, well before you get to the heart of the action: that is, the street’s dozens of music shops and studios, catering to São Paulo’s seasoned pros and teenage rockers alike. With a couple of visits to this unassuming establishment now under our belts, we’re happy to pronounce it home to one of the city’s better beer selections.

Toca do Coelho (‘rabbit hole’) fancies itself a restaurant, cervejaria and cachaçaria, but feels more like a boteco with a speciality in imported microbrews and the fiery national spirit. True, there’s a food menu featuring a few choices that go beyond the realm of

standard boteco fare – think actual coelho (R$98.90 for four people) – as well as the more standard grilled meats with rice and salad, and feijoada on Wednesdays and Saturdays (R$31.90 mini, R$52.90 ‘completa’, R$79.80 ‘super’). But the menu’s array of porções – snacky little plates of cheese, olives, meat and assorted fried goodies – is what you’re really going to want: just a few salty bits to help send all that good, good beer on its way.

Toca do Coelho carries an impressive selection of suds from Brazil and beyond, including dozens of European labels like the German Franziskaner (R$16.90), and Belgian favourites Duvel (R$22.50) and Malheur (a stiff R$108 for 750ml). It also often stocks small microbrews like Founders (R$29.90), Scotland’s BrewDog (R$25.90); and no fewer than forty national varieties, including the excellent Colorado (R$18-19.80), from Riberão Preto in São Paulo state; Way from Curitiba, Paraná (R$9.80); and Coruja from Forquilhinha, Santa Catarina (R$19.80-$37).

Indeed, the presence of and

attention to beer is almost overwhelming, with the tables in the front section crammed tightly together beside the refrigerators, and patrons having to make way occasionally for waiters retrieving cold cans or bottles.

Amidst the hanging guitars, the glow of promotional neon and the barrage of old brewery advertisements, something else stands out: the wall behind the bar is packed with bottle upon bottle of cachaça. No less impressive than Toca do Coelho’s extensive selection of beers, the list of more than 100 cachaças occupies three pages of the menu, running the gamut from bottom-shelf firewater (Cachaça da Casa, at R$2.50) to special-occasion picks like the hallowed Anisio Santiago (R$47). Order a beer, a snack and a tiny glass of the golden spirit from the knowledgeable, helpful waiters, and take a scamper down the rabbit hole.

Rua Teodoro Sampaio 507, Pinheiros (3085 9653/restaurantetocadocoelho. com.br). Open 7am-10pm MonFri; 8am-6pm Sat. Prices 500ml Guinness draft R19.90.

Amigo Leal Germans originally popularised beer in Brazil, and this wood-panelled bar has a credible Rhine River feel. The name means ‘loyal friend’, and the businessmen who’ve been coming to relax here after a hard day’s work in the city centre for decades would no doubt agree. Quality draught beer, pastéis and German dishes like Eisbein (pigs’ knees) and Kassler (pork chops) are all on the cards. Rua Amaral Gurgel 165, República (3223 6873/amigoleal. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 4pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat; 5pmmidnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.40; caipirinha R$11.

Papo, Pinga e Petisco This informal, lively bar is right on São Paulo’s bohemian frontline – on the bustling pavement of Praça Roosevelt, alongside a handful of alternative theatre companies. The bar’s name means ‘chat, cachaça and snacks’. There’s a cut-out of Elvis surrounded by flashing lights outside, racks of old vinyl inside, and its big wooden tables are invariably full of loud chat, expansive gestures and oh, go on then, a saideira: the Brazilian version of one for the road. Praça Roosevelt 118, Centro (3257 4106). Metrô 3, República. Open 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-2.30am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$4.50; caipirinha R$11. No credit cards.

Piano Bar do Terraço Itália You could almost be in a London gentlemen’s club at the bar at the top of landmark Edificio Itália, if it weren’t for the

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Food & Drink

floor-to-ceiling windows providing a 360-degree view of the city. Here on the 42nd floor, you are above the city’s other skyscrapers bar none, and even above the helicopters below. The unobstructed view comes at a cost: R$30 added to your bill, but it’s worth it. Settle into one of the brown leather chairs, and enjoy the classic vibe over a caipirinha with saké and basil while you gaze in wonder at the city below. The bar scores high on warm service, too. 41st floor, Avenida Ipiranga 344, Centro (2189 2929/terracoitalia.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open noon-1am MonSun. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$22; cover R$30.

New in town Public bar

Exquisito! The giant murals and retro posters coupled with the colourful decor, voluble chatter and general sense of life give this bar-cum-restaurant a uniquely Latin American vibe. No wonder you sometimes have to queue for a table, even on a Sunday night.

They serve food from all over the continent, but the ceviche is particularly recommended and the chilli con carne will feed three. Rua Bela Cintra 532, Consolação (3854 6522/exquisito.com. br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6pm1.30am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu; 6pmlate Fri, Sat; 6pm-1.30am Sun. Prices chope R$8; caipirinha R$14.

Papillon de Nuit Soft lighting glows from the chandeliers, casting a lustrous sheen on the scarlet wallpaper and transporting the clientele to what could be a sultry nightspot in the bohemian Parisian neighbourhood of Pigalle.

This is the intimate setting of charming Papillon de Nuit, conveniently located in the buzz of Consolação, but just far enough away from Rua Augusta to avoid the chaos. The menu may be simple, but the nibbles are tasty, making it the perfect spot for a drink and catch up with friends, or a post-cinema pitstop.

Rua Fernando de Albuquerque 255, Consolação (3151 6221). Metrô 4, Paulista. Open 8pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$6.50; caipirinha R$14.

Sancho Bar y Tapas A classier alternative to Rua Augusta’s more lowrent watering holes, Sancho Bar y Tapas carries its Spanish theme from the menu – a mix of tapas dishes to share and individual pintxo-style portions of bread with ambrosial toppings, lined up along the long, underlit bar – through to the décor, with an eclecticism that takes in everything from vintage bullfighting posters to Basque flags. The music, too, blends Spanish chart tunes and rock, with the live flamenco guitar show a real treat for Mondays and Wednesdays (8.30-10.30pm). Spanish wine can be ordered by the glass (R$15-$30), though you’ll need psychic powers to interpret the cryptic cocktail menu, with house concoctions like the ‘Sancho’ listed by name but devoid of any explanation.

Rua Augusta 1415, Consolação (3141 1956/sanchobarytapas.com.br).

Open 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm-midnight Mon-Wed; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm1am Thu; 11.30am-4pm, 5.30pm3am Fri; 5.30pm-3am Sat; 5.30pm-

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Consolação & Higienópolis

Holding court on one of the busiest junctions in the city, in the heart of the financial district, the functionally named Public bar & afterbar looks all set to cater to after-work drinkers and birthday groups en masse, fuelling mid-week get-togethers with flatbread pizzas (R$39.90), cocktails in buckets (R$96.90 for 2 litres) and the sounds of live rock and pop. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2,859, Itaim Bibi (3050 2029/Facebook: Public2859). Prices chope R$11.90; caipirinha R$19.90; cover R$10-$30.

midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$14.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda

Suíte Savalas It’s a curious facet of modern life that anything from the ’70s is cool. Especially if it was on TV. Cashing in on that trend, the name of Greek-American actor Aristotelis ‘Telly’ Savalas, best known for starring in the ’70s crime drama Kojak, is the moniker of choice of this bar, while inside, photos of cult TV shows and films adorn the walls.

But cinematic references aside, what Suíte Savalas is really all about is being a New York-style, no-nonsense bar – eminently welcome in a city with such a gaping void between pavement boteco and upwardly mobile, designer lounge poncery. The low red lights and clean-without-beingpristine interior fill up with a young, agreeably mixed bunch of customers. We like. Rua Mato Grosso 398, Consolação (3259 4355). Open 9pm-3am WedSat. Prices small bottle beer R$6.50; caipirinha R$15; cover R$15.

Casa do Espeto There are more espeto (grilled meat on a stick) options here than you can, erm, shake a stick at, from sausage to queijo coalho and even chocolate-coated strawberries, carried around by circulating waiters. But it’s not the food that is the real draw here: it’s the sprawling maze of a garden hidden out back, which sets this Perdizes branch apart from the Casa’s three other locations across town. Live music or football projected on enormous screens give added appeal. Rua Cotoxó 582, Perdizes (3676 0436/casadoespeto.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$7.50; caipirinha R$18 cover R$5. Other locations Rua Mourato Coelho 1022, Vila Madalena (3032 5191); Rua Padre Carvalho 525, Pinheiros (3812 0173).

Tubaína Decorated with celebrity posters from the ’80s, Tubaína mixes up tasty regional cocktails like the Cosmopolitan do Agreste – a passionfruit, strawberry, chilli and cachaça creation. It also offers more than twenty types of Tubaína – a brand of soft drinks, made in inland São Paulo state.

Following the caipira (rural) theme, traditional country dishes like pamonha (creamed corn) aren’t bad either. Rua Haddock Lobo 74, Consolação (3129 4930/tubainabar.com.br). Open 6pm1am Mon-Thu; 6pm-3am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$6.50; caipirinha R$14; cover R$0-$4.

Lebowski This cosy Barra Funda bar crams in as many references to the 1998 Coen brothers movie, The Big Lebowski, as possible, from bowling-pin lights to an alley-styled bar counter, and most important of all, a menu dedicated to the white russian. Those who aren’t partial to The Dude’s milky-coffee cocktail of choice can pick from a solid selection of other vodka-based drinks. Take ten steps into this bar and you’ll have already scoped out the entire space. But while it may be small, there’s still room for a tiny, darkened dancefloor. Rua Barra Funda 1070, Barra Funda (lebowskisp.com.br).

Open 11pm-5am Fri-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7,50; caipiroska R$16. No credit cards.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Artilheiros Football is at the heart of this laid-back bar, from the team scarves and vintage football magazines adorning the white-washed brick walls, to its commitment to broadcasting all the major football games from South America and Europe. You won’t find rowdy fans in here, though – it’s not that kind of place.

A R$5 surcharge on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays covers live MPB and samba rock, when the football’s not on, that is. The only downside here is the limited menu and beer selection. The pumpkin and dried meat croquettes – recommended by our waiter as the best thing to pick – were over-fried on our last visit. Rua Mourato Coelho 1194, Pinheiros (2922 0314/artilheirosbar. com.br). Open 8pm-midnight Wed, Thu; 8pm-3am Fri; 3pm-3am Sat; 4pm10.30pm Sun Prices 600ml beer R$7.60; caipirinha R$16.

Astor/Sub Astor The casual grandeur of Astor, its bustling bow-tied waiters and the towering edifice of a bar brought over from Philadelphia by boat give this fine establishment a vintage feel.

But the crowd is mixed and modern, with plenty of jazzy youth to liven up the more mature patrons. The food is excellent too – try a portion of the mouth-watering caldo de feijão (bean, pork and garlic soup). Downstairs is Sub Astor, a ritzy, decadent red-and-black bar with some of the best cocktails in town. Rua Delfina 163, Vila Madalena (3815 1364/barastor. com.br/subastor.com.br). Open 6pm-1am Mon; 6pm-1am Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu-Sat, noon-7pm Sun. SubAstor: 8pm3am Tue-Thu; 8pm-4am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$6.40; caipirinha R$19.

Bar do Biu You could easily miss this low-key boteco, unless it’s a Saturday afternoon, when crowds spill out the door.

Quench your thirst here after a trip to the Benedito Calixto market, just a couple of blocks away. Be prepared to wait for a table outside, or head inside to grab a table in a space adorned with football team strips. Don’t miss the famed baião de dois (from R$33) – a north-eastern buttery rice dish studded with jerky. Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 776, Pinheiros (3081 6739/bardobiu.com.br). Open 11am-6pm Mon, Tue; 11am-10pm Wed-Sat; 11am6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$11.

Bierboxx Aimed at beer lovers, this bar and beer emporium feels more emporium than bar, lacking atmosphere and with a barely-visible-barman tucked away in a corner. There’s certainly nothing lacking when it comes to choice, however, with more than 200 types of beer on sale, though only four of them on tap Bunches of students go some way to livening up the space, set in an old Vila Madalena house. Rua Fradique Coutinho 842, Vila Madalena (3805 0151/barbierboxx.com. br). Open 6pm-midnight Tue, Wed; 6pm-2am Thu, Fri; 4pm-2am Sat, Sun. Prices pint of beer R$16; cover R$10.

Donostia Named after the Basque seaside town reputed to have the most bars per square kilometre, this pintxo (Basque-style tapas) bar is as much about eating as it is drinking. Legs of imported jamón Ibérico (R$125 per serving) and

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Paulo at this intimate, low-lit live music joint. Everything from the decor (think faded sepia photos of the city) to the waiters, dressed in flat caps and bow ties – some of them have been working here since the bar opened twenty years ago – evokes days of yore, though it’s all done in a thoroughly charming and tasteful way. Up on the mezzanine, bands play jazz and MPB while down below, a mix of couples and groups of all ages tap their toes whilst tucking into caipiroskas and pastéis. Rua Wisard 149, Vila Madalena (3032 9775/piratiningabar.com.br). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Thu; 6pm-3am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$6.90; caipirinha R$12; cover charge R$12-$15.

Filial This bar is owned by the Altman brothers, who opened their first Vila Madalena bar in 1980 and dedicated it to choro. Since then the bar, once called the Clube do Choro and now known as Filial, has moved around the area, but it’s still the after-show bar of choice for local musicians. There’s an impressive list of caipirinhas – try the cachaça with lima da pérsia (lime). Sit outside and watch the Vila Madalena wildlife stumble by. Rua Fidalga 254, Vila Madalena (3813 9226/ barfilial.com.br). Open 5pm-4am MonFri; noon-3am Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15.50.

Posto 6 Smack bang on the busiest crossroads in Vila Madalena is this grand old dame of choperias, probably the best of the bars that crowd this buzzing corner. The walls are covered with caricatures of famous personalities and photos of the 1960s, and the name is a homage to the eponymous lifeguard post and associated hangout spot on Ipanema beach. Pair your drinks with some of the best fried mandioca (fried yucca) in town, and dream of Rio. Rua Aspicuelta 644, Vila Madalena (3812 4342/posto6.com).

Open 6pm-1am Mon-Fri; 2pm-3am Sat; noon-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$5.90-R$6.60; caipirinha R$17.

Melograno In this oasis of calm in the midst of the Vila Madalena chaos, you can find a comprehensive menu of beers from around the world and, if you’re lucky, settle at a table in the leafy garden at the back. Melograno is a discreetly stylish little bar; and the food’s not bad, either, covering Brazilian bar snacks, paninis and comforting classics like fish and chips, served wedged into a pint glass. The beer menu was relaunched in 2012 with a smaller but still impressive selection of 130 brews, some of which are grouped into setprice tasting menus. Rua Aspicuelta 436, Vila Madalena (3031 2921/melograno. com.br). Open 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu; 6pm-1am Fri, Sat. Prices chope R$7; caipirinha R$18.

Mercearia São Pedro Straightforward and buzzing, this boteco is something of a city institution, doubling up as a bookshop and video rental joint, with shelves stacked with old VHS tapes, dust-covered books and erotic manga comics. Head here for the cheap buffet lunch (R$18), though in the evenings expect slow service and to wait at least an hour for a table. Rua Rodésia 34, Vila Madalena (3815 7200/ merceariasaopedro.com.br). Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 11am-midnight Mon-Sat; 11am-6pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$5; caipirinha R$12.

Pé de Manga So the clientele here can be a little – how shall we put this? – hoity toity. It’s worth it for the greenery, the mango trees, the pond and the waterfall.

Not to mention the celebrity-themed sandwiches, the mini-acarajé appetisers, and the mixed-fruit caipiroskas (try the lychee, mango and passion fruit), which stray happily beyond the standard bar-style fare. Rua Arapiraca 152, Vila Madalena (3032 6068/www.pedemanga. com.br). Open noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Prices chope R$5.40; caipirinha R$10.

Piratininga Welcome to ye olde São

Food & Drink

jamón serrano (R$56 per serving) as well as artfully presented plates of pintxos – juicy garlic prawns, thick wedges of tortilla, stuffed roasted peppers and the like – top the L-shaped wooden bar. Pull up a stool and graze your way, one by delicious one, through the varied options on the menu, or just help yourself to whatever catches your eye on the bar.

With six different red wines by the glass, and cava at R$9 per glass, the evening’s only challenge is what to choose first.

Rua Simão Álvares 484, Vila Madalena (3034 0996/donostia.com.br). Open 7pm-midnight Tue-Wed; 7pm-1am ThuFri; 1pm-1am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12.

Ringue Lounge Expanses of red velvet, chandeliers and walls covered with glossy photos of famous pugilists and celebrities dressed as boxers – David Bowie is one – give away the theme. Yes, it’s the noble art, as the gloves draped around an angel statue and the name, Ringue Lounge, suggests. In spite of the slightly kitsch decor, it’s a good spot for a drink, and livens up when the in-house DJ gets going.

Rua Lisboa 191, Pinheiros (3082 7904/ ringuelounge.com.br). Open 8pm-2am Tue-Thu; 8pm-4am Fri, Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$15.50; cover R$0-10.

São Cristóvão This wonderful little bar, with a red façade and charming picture-covered walls seems straight out of a Parisian guidebook. Surprisingly, it’s Paris by way of Pelé. Devoted to the São Cristóvão football team, it sports football photos and memorabilia on positively every square-inch space of wall. Tune into matches on one of the bar’s three TVs, alongside a low-key, local crowd.

There is a R$18-$25 cover on Sundays and Mondays (a jazz band plays at 9pm).

Rua Aspicuelta 533, Pinheiros (11 3097 9904). Open noon-2am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$13; cover R$0-$25.

Twelve Bistro It’s all about beer and tasty, home-cooked food here. The eclectic menu – created by the Australian owner and chef Gregor Caisley – is well executed.

The curried lamb pastéis with mango chutney (R$16), a tasty take on the muchloved deep-fried Brazilian snack, are a good bet to start. Team them with one of a respectable selection of beers, with plenty of Brazilian options to choose from, including the popular Colorado brand.

Beers from around the world also get a good look in. Rua Simão Álvares 1018,Vila Madalena (3562 7550/twelvebistrot.com. br). Open noon-midnight Tue-Sat; noon7pm Sun. Prices chope R$4.90; caipirinha R$14.

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Food & Drink

Jardins

Shake it up Cachaça cocktail

Bar Balcão Find a space at the curvy wooden counter that snakes all the way around the ground floor of this welcoming, friendly bar. Then settle in with a chope and soak up the atmosphere. Popular with journalists, artists and descolado Jardins residents, the twists and turns of the communal bar and the convivial atmosphere make this the best bar in town for conversation, including those struck up between customers, cheek by jowl at the bar. There’s no music and no fuss here – it’s simple and stylish, attracting a slightly older, funky crowd. The food, like the service, is simple but good quality – and that giant pop art painting on the wall? It’s a genuine Roy Lichtenstein. Rua Dr. Melo Alves 150, Jardim Paulista (3063 6091).

Open 6pm-1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.60; caipirinha R$11.80.

The View There was no pussyfooting about when it came to naming this 30thfloor penthouse bar. Let’s sell it like it is, they decided: it’s an upmarket hotel-style bar with floor-to-ceiling windows and a terrace that’s perfectly placed for seeing the city by night. But that view doesn’t come cheap: there’s a cover charge and only a few wines are less than R$100 a bottle. The better bets are the wellmade cocktails, with the kir royales and margaritas particularly recommended.

Transamerica International Plaza, Alameda Santos 981, Jardim Paulista (3266 3692/theviewbar.com.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP or Brigadeiro. Open 6pm-midnight Mon; 6pm-2am Tue-Fri; 7pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$18; cover R$22 (after 9pm).

Bar da Dida Candle-lit by moonlight, this ace little bar on the edge of Jardins doesn’t get going till the hairdressers’ next door winds down – that’s because the sought-after, humble plastic tables are set out on the salon’s parking spaces. Huge caipirinhas and a buzzing atmosphere make this simple, friendly spot one of our absolute faves. Mill about and wait for a table if necessary, or give up and retire to Bar Balcão, a short walk away. Rua Doutor Melo Alves 98, Jardim Paulista (3088 7177/bardadida.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 6.30pm-1am Tue-Sat; 5.30pm-midnight Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$6; caipirinha R$14.

Brown Sugar If this Jardins hotspot were a musical genre, it would be more smooth jazz than rock’n’roll, despite the Rolling Stones theme. A beautiful crowd fills the ’70s lounge bar tucked away at the back of an Italian restaurant. Head straight through the restaurant to the low-lit, low-ceilinged space where the barman, raised up like a DJ in a booth, spins his cocktail shakers. To drink? The apple martini is a good choice from a small but classic cocktail menu. Rua Padre João Manuel 1055, Jardim Paulista (3063 4249/brownsugar.com.br). Open noon3pm, 6pm-1am Mon-Thu; noon-2am Fri, Sat; noon-3pm, 6pm-1am Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$8; caipirinha R$17.

O’Malley’s This big, noisy gaff would love to be called a traditional Irish pub, and a home-from-home for every expat in town. But O’Malley’s is just as popular with Brazilians as it is with homesick airline pilots looking for someone to talk to – or more – on a layover. It’s more like one of the chain pubs you find inside

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Botequim do Hugo This charming, homely bar is in stark contrast to the relentlessly upmarket restaurants and bars of Itaim, especially if there’s no room in the rustic yard and you have to sit in the back room with the beer crates, the fish tanks, and the deep freeze. It’s the Brazilian equivalent of an English country pub, except that the beer is cold, and the buracos quentes (minced meat and cheesestuffed rolls) are excellent. Don’t dilly-dally on the way, because it closes early. Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 1014, Itaim Bibi (3079 6090/botequimdohugo.com.br). Open 4-10pm Mon-Fri. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Rodrigo Capote/press image

Bar Numero This slick bar is in the uptown, top-ranking category, no doubt whatsoever. Just to get up its striking walkway and through the door means a minimum spend of R$100 per person, plus a reservation; but if you get the chance to step inside, take it. The dramatic interior is emblematic of its architect Isay Weinfeld’s virtuoso touch, as is Número’s mysterious facade, where a set of monolithic numbers in relief on the wall, like the enigmatically placed contents of a typesetter’s box, is the only sign the bar needs. Rua da Consolação 3585, Jardim Paulista (3061 3995/barnumero.com.br). Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; caipirinha R$35; mimimum spend R$100$200.

or bag a table upstairs in the mezzanine where, with the volume turned down a notch, conversation is more audible.

Alameda Itu 1548, Jardim Paulista (3081 4317/barsquat.com.br). Open 7pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$7; caipirinha R$16; minimum spend R$25-$60.

Chances are you’re used to cachaça – the fiery national spirit – muddled with fruit in caipirinhas, or just sipped slowly as an aperitif. How about shaking it up in a cocktail? Try barman Fabio La Pietra’s creation, Xinga na Pinga (R$24), with cachaça, espresso and a Brazil nut and cacau syrup, served in a tin cup, on the menu at sexy basement bar SubAstor until July. See listings.

London railway stations than a cosy country boozer; but there are beers from Mexico, the Czech Republic and Belgium, and there’s nowhere better to get drunk while watching Irish rugby, if that’s your bag. Alameda Itú 1529, Jardim Paulista (3086 0780/omalleysbar.net). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open noon-4am Mon-Thu; noon-5am Fri, Sat; noon-4am Sun. Prices pint of beer R$7-$20; caipirinha R$13; cover R$10-$35 (after 10pm).

Skye Regarded as one of the city’s modern architectural wonders, Hotel Unique’s half-moon design is certainly eye-catching. And it’s the only place many visiting star DJs and other high flyers will stay. Consequently, the hotel’s signature rooftop poolside bar is as self-consciously fashionable as you might expect – but the

view and the pool are simply stunning.

Order a mojito and lounge on one of the outside deck chairs under the moodenhancing lighting. Hotel Unique, Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700, Jardim Paulista (3055 4710/skye.com.br). Open 6pm-12.30am Mon-Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices chope R$12; caipirinha R$26.

Squat The squatters in this twostorey hangout tend to be trendy twentysomethings who set up camp for parties and pre-club warm-up drinks.

The dim lighting creates an intimate atmosphere though be warned, the place gets packed out from Thursdays to Saturdays when DJs – spinning anything from rock to Latino tunes – liven up the crowd. Flirt your socks off downstairs

Bottagallo It’s easy to be misled by the hum of chatter as you approach Bottagallo, or by the huddles of people outside, relaxing on the long benches with a beer or standing around chatting.

Well-fed diners, you conclude, having a post-meal smoke. But no. They’re waiting; and happily – because the wait is well worth it. Kick off with one of the no-fuss house cocktails to get things going – the Vesper martini, with a hint of lemon, is a good call, whether piccolo (R$18) or regular (R$23). Once inside and settled at one of the rustic wooden tables, just let the efficient, friendly waiters keep the cold chope coming, and order a plate or two of the delicious, made-for-sharing tapas.

Rua Jesuíno Arruda 520, Itaim Bibi (3078 2858/bottagallo.com.br). Open 6.30pmmidnight Mon; 6.30pm-1am Tue-Thu; 12.30pm-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Fri; noon2am Sat; noon-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$6; caipirinha R$16.50.

Coisa Boa This glass-walled bar dedicated to interesting ales comprises a wooden deck on the street, a main bar and a quieter mezzanine. But the best table in the house is the largest one – a long, low communal table (technically the waiting area) beside the supermarket-style chiller cabinet from where you can survey an impressive range of more than 200 brews from around the world. Help yourself to

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Dublin With its classic dark wood and dim lights aesthetic, Dublin is what you might call an Irish pub with a Brazilian twist. Chope and caipirinhas are served alongside pints of Guinness, and an eclectic menu covers options like pizza, baked potato and spicy chicken. Most nights are set to the sound of a live band followed by DJ, making this a great place for an impromptu boogie. Rua Ministro Jesuíno Cardoso 178, Vila Olímpia (3044 4149/dublin.com.br). Open 6pm-late, Tue-Fri; 8pm-late Sat. Prices pint of beer R$13; caipirinha R$16; cover R$10-R$60.

Na Mata Café Blending cocktail bar, restaurant and live music hotspot, Na Mata Café serves a constituency of animated professionals in suits, and social butterflies in figure-hugging clothes and heels. Airy electronica accompanies the late cocktail hour, with exotic grape-and-key-lime caipirinhas and Red Bull party combos for any gang of friends in need of an extra pick-me-up. Rotating musical acts – from pop to rock, dance and MPB – perform on weeknights, especially if the Stevie Wonder tribute band is on. Rua da Mata 70, Itaim Bibi (3079 0300/namata.com. br). Open noon-3.30pm Mon; noon3.30pm, 7.30pm-late Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$9; caipirinha R$13.90; cover R$30-$50.

Seo Gomes The Fifties-inspired decor and warm, inviting glow makes walking past Seo Gomes a tricky proposition.

Sparkling tiles line the walls and floor, set off by a decidedly retro shade of green paint. And with smart waiters in flat caps buzzing around with trays of chopes, it wouldn’t seem out of place if Mad Men’s Don Draper were to walk in, light up a ciggie and order himself a whisky. A predominantly male (and often loud) crowd can drown out the live bossa nova; but the evening buffet is a definite plus for hungry drinkers. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 1214, Vila Olímpia (3846 3625/seogomes.com. br). Open noon-3pm, 5pm-1am Mon-Sun. Prices chope R$5.90; caipirinha R$15; cover R$7.

Wall Street Bar Feeling like Gordon Gekko on a weekday night? That’s Michael Douglas’s era-defining character in the 1987 Wall Street movie, not the recent sequel, by the way. Then head down to Itaim’s Wall Street Bar and join the shirt-sleeved business folk as they loosen their ties and gamble on drinks prices while they rise and fall depending on who’s buying what. It’s black and tiled with a big bull statue outside, but don’t fret – lunch isn’t for wimps at Wall Street: they do serve food. Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 149, Itaim Bibi (3873 6922/ wallstreetbar.com.br). Open 6pm-2am Mon-Sat; 3-11pm Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$7.90; caipirinha R$18; minimum spend R$15-$30.

Ibirapuera & Moema Bar Ao Vivo This charming little nightspot is somewhere between dark jazz bar and cheerful little pub, and as its name – which roughly translates as Live Music Bar – suggests, it’s a good place to catch musicians doing their thing. And those can include respected Brazilian performers like bossa nova veterans Zimba Trio. For drinks, try the chef’s martini, made with premium vodka, Cointreau and Blue Curaçao. Rua Inhambu 229, Moema (5052 0072/aovivomusic.com.br). Open 7pm-2am Mon-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$15.90; cover R$10-$40.

Bar Original One of São Paulo’s classic old-school botequims, Original feels like it’s been there forever, serving up the chopes and the excellent bar snacks since time immemorial. But if you get that déjà vu feeling, it might not be for quite the reason you imagine. The old-fashioned decor, the virtuoso way the bartenders have with the caipirinhas and the spot-on service, friendly and super-efficient, aren’t the product of decades of history, but of the trademark high standards of the bar’s owners, who have some of the city’s finest establishments now under their belts – think Bráz, Astor, Pirajá and BottaGallo.

Rua Graúna 137, Moema (5093 9486/ baroriginal.com.br). Open 5.30pm-2am Mon-Wed; 5.30pm-3am Thu, Fri; noon3am Sat; noon-10pm Sun. Prices chope R$6.20; caipirinha R$16.50.

Bar do Juarez There is a subtle art deco-aesthetic at work at the ever-popular Bar do Juarez. Older crowds are drawn to the wide selection of whiskies and cachaças, and the table-top mini grill for juicy beef cuts. The excellent self-service, per-kilo spread of bar snacks blows most other bars right out of the water with its olives and cheeses, cold cuts and pickles; but avoid the watery caipirinhas with their thin-sliced lime. Avenida Jurema 324, Moema (5052 4449/bardojuarez. com.br). Open 5pm-1am Mon-Fri; noon-1am Sat, Sun. Prices chope Other R$6.60; caipirinha R$16. locations Avenida Deputado Franco de Lacerda 642, Pinheiros (3578 5228); Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 1164, Itaim (3078 3458); Rua Joaquim Nabuco 325, Brooklin (3969 4988).

Paulo’s Japanese district. The bar also has a big back room full of pool tables, which tends to fill up atmospherically with smoke from the grill. The food isn’t amazing, the dancefloor is more of an ad-hoc space cleared in the throng; and the karaoke singers tend to be more miss than hit; but it’s great for a messy, drunken night out.

At weekends, it’s packed, and note that you’ll need to get your name down early if you want your three minutes of fame. Rua da Glória 523, Liberdade (3207 8783).

Metrô 1, Liberdade Open 7pm-5am TueThu; 7pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-5am Sun. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12; cover R$0-$10.

Veloso The renowned caipirinhas at this friendly boteco live up to the hype, with weird and wonderful flavours. Go for the jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit), or the tangerine with chilli peppers, but give the bland pomegranate (romã) with lime a miss. There’s limited space inside, so expect to wait for a seat, or settle for standing-room on the pavement outside, next door to the extraordinary Sabesp water-tank building. The plump yet delicate bolinhos de bacalhau make the perfect accompaniment to the caipirinhas, as do the creamy coxinhas (chicken croquettes), which are so good you may even feel inclined to buy one of the bar’s ‘Soy Loko por Coxinha’ T-shirts.

Hopefully not though. Rua Conceição Veloso 56, Vila Mariana (5572 0254/ velosobar.com.br). Open 5.30pm12.30am Tue-Fri; 12.45pm-12.30am Sat; 4-11pm Sun. Prices chope R$5.30; caipirinha R$15.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cervejaria Ô Fiô Ale aficionados and lager lovers will be drawn to this bar’s more-than-comprehensive beer menu.

Come on a sunny afternoon to enjoy the pleasant outdoor patio space while you make a start on trying the hundreds of Brazilian and international beers. A varied clientele comes on Saturday afternoons to listen to live samba de raiz while lining their stomachs with a filling feijoada (R$32). Rua Lício Marcondes Amaral 51, Morumbi (3721 6636/cervejariaofio.com. br). Open 6pm-late Mon-Fri; noon-late Sat, Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.50$200; caipirinha R$12; cover R$7-$9.

Food & Drink

a bottle of pale ale, weissbier or porter, or ask the friendly ‘beer sommelier’ for help navigating the selection. To soak up the suds, we sampled the picadinho with a brie sauce (R$35) – a (not quite hot enough) mound of beef strips sitting on a cheesey sauce with bread for mopping.

Rua Pedroso Alvarenga 909, Itaim Bibi (3073 0773). Open 5pm-midnight TueFri; noon-midnight Sat, Sun. Prices small bottle beer R$10.90-$159.90, caipirinha R$19.

Verissimo As far as theme bars go, this happy-hour favourite requires a little homework, unless you’re already familiar with the work of Brazilian author Luís Fernando Veríssimo. References to his work pepper the bar, from his cheery face in photos and caricatures lining the walls to excerpts from his books on the napkins, and even in the menu too, in cocktails like Sexo na Cabeça (sex on the brain) – a pineapple and lime caipirinha (R$14) that’s as sweet and sharp as Veríssimo’s humour in that eponymous book. Find savoury snacks like the delicious battered brie with chilli jam (R$30) on the menu under ‘piriris’ – a word of Veríssimo’s own invention, meaning little bites to eat. Rua Flórida 1488, Brooklin (5506 6748/verissimobar. com.br). Open 11.30am-1am Mon-Wed; 11.30am-2am Thu-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana As Mineiras Set on a quiet residential street, this bar and its adjacent store are a twin homage to São Paulo’s neighbouring state of Minas Gerais. Folk art chickens and bottles of hot peppers from Minas adorn the shelves around the bar. Take a seat beneath the wagon-wheel chandeliers and take your pick of shareable mineiro staples like pastel de angú (corn meal fritters) and bolinhos de feijão (bean balls).

The real draw, though, is the drinks menu, with a comprehensive selection of cachaças and bonus happy hour specials that includes 2-for-1 caipirinhas every day except Saturday. Rua França Pinto 965, Vila Mariana (5083 5835/asmineiras.com. br). Open 4-11.30pm Tue-Sat. Prices chope R$5.50; caipirinha R$12.

Choperia Liberdade A gloriously kitsch and raucous atmosphere prevails at this karaoke hangout in the heart of São

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Food & Drink

The hot list – cafés How to use the listings This section lists our pick of the city’s cafés, padarias (bakeries), juice bars, lanchonete diners and ice-cream parlours, updated monthly to include new spots and rotate in other favourites. For each, we give the price of a small coffee – cafezinho – and of a range of sandwiches.

New in town Mexican ice pops

We visit cafés anonymously and pay for our own food and drinks, and our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion. Unless marked ‘No credit cards’, all these establishments accept major credit cards.

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CAFÉ Café No Vidro Dedicated to doing it the old fashioned way, former businessman Aldo de Rosa’s downtown establishment is a no-frills café that’s all about filter coffee. His sister-in-law Rossana Loureiro is in charge of the brewing – she only makes two litres of coffee at a time.

With each new batch, she rings a brass bell to let passersby know that the fresh coffee is served. Satisfy a sweet tooth with one of Loureiro’s cakes, like the endearingly named engorda marido (R$3.80) – husband fattener – a heavy cake made with milk.

Rua Sete de Abril 111, República (3129 8523). Open 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri. Prices filter coffee R$1.50; sandwiches R$4.50-$6.50.

Finding decent guacamole, let alone authentic corn tortillas to scoop it up with, is a hard enough task in São Paulo, where cheap Tex-Mex is as close as you’ll get to Mexican cuisine, with a few exceptions. Offering a sweeter taste of Mexico, the new Paleteria Los Hermanos does Mexican paletas – ice pops – in flavours that stray well beyond Mexico’s borders, in the form of of pineapple and mint, açaí and banana, mojito, or strawberry and condensed milk. Rua Doutor César 742, Santana (paleterialoshermanos.com.br). Prices ice pops R$6-$9.

Consolação & Higienópolis

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros

BAKERY Benjamin Abrahão The

Jardins branch of this citywide bakery is the most modern and trendy; but this Higienópolis version, older and considerably more traditional, is still sought out for its sweets and croissants, especially the ham croissant, a spot-on snack accompanied by coffee or juice. Rua Maranhão 220, Higienópolis (3258 1855/ benjaminabrahao.com.br). Open 6am8.30pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.70; sandwiches R$7.90-$10.20. Other locations Citywide.

CAFÉ Mate Por Favor A well-loved

infusion all over South America, in Brazil mate is drunk as tea, usually cold. At Mate Por Favor’s convivial open counter, go for a mate with lemon (R$2.50), if you can find a spot. The place is much in demand, as it’s located right in front of the Espaço Unibanco cinema. Rua Augusta 1492, Consolação (3266 7822) Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Sat; 1-10pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$2.50; snacks R$2.50-$3.50. No credit cards.

CAFÉ Forneria San Paolo This chic diner–restaurant, with its glassed-in kitchen, hanging lamps, and surprisingly loud music, is always packed. The menu has a large selection of sandwiches, plus hot dishes and salads. Stick with the panini – the pasta isn’t the menu’s strong point. Rua Amauri 319, Itaim Bibi (3078 0099/restauranteforneria.com.br) Open noon-2am Sun-Wed; noon-3am Thu-Sat. Prices cafezinho R$6; sandwiches R$38$45. Other location Avenida Chedid Jafet 131, Vila Olímpia (3841 9680).

BAKERY Saint Germain Smack bang

NEW means the café has opened in the last couple of months. is for highly recommended. is for good veggie options. signals free Wi-Fi for customers.

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia

CAFÉ Sofá Café This funky two-storey

café is all mis-matched furniture and bright colours. Sink in to a sofa or – if the sun is shining – sit out in the narrow but leafy terrace out back. Upstairs there’s a bright and airy meeting room that’s perfect for informal meetings. To eat? The menu covers light morning choices like yogurt with granola and honey. Rua Bianchi Bertoldi 130, Pinheiros (3034 5830/sofacafe.com.br).

Open 7.30am-6pm Mon-Wed; 7.30am9.30pm Thu, Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$4.50-$6.50.

ICE CREAM Stuzzi Gelato Caffé Slightly out of the way as far as Vila Madalena is concerned, this tiny parlour nevertheless attracts hordes of ice-cream lovers, especially on weekends, for its Italian-style ice-cream. Rua Paulistânia 450, Vila Madalena (3816 0279/stuzzi. com.br) Metrô 2, Vila Madalena. Open 9am-8pm Mon-Sat; 12pm-8pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3; ice-cream R$14$18 (two scoops).

Jardins CAFÉ Cristallo This chocolate-andpastries shop opened in 1953; and since then, Cristallo has been serving the best panettone and paninis in town. Grab a seat outside for an espresso and some people-watching, and don’t leave without trying a chocolate-covered bomba (R$5.20).

Rua Oscar Freire 914, Jardim Paulista (3082 1783/cristalloonline.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 9.30am -10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat-Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$10.50$26. Other locations Citywide.

CAFÉ Tea Connection Striking a balance between coffee house chain and cosy café, Tea Connection has just the right amount of choice on the menu, with plenty of options for non-tea-drinkers too.

Teas come with a recommended brewing time and water temperature for each.

Alameda Lorena 1271, Jardim Paulista (3063 4018/teaconnection.com.br). Open 8am-11pm Mon; 8am-midnight Tue-Thu; 8am-1am Fri; 9am-1m sat; 9am-11pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$4; tea R$7.50; sandwiches R$25-$33.

in the middle of the bustling business neighbourhood of Itaim, this bakery makes for a perfect pitstop between meetings. Look past the kitsch, alpinestyle façade: originally from Curitiba, Saint Germain in São Paulo has kept its reputation for both the quality and variety of its breads, and has one of the crispiest pães na chapa (buttered toast, R$1.80) we’ve had the good fortune to try. Rua Manoel Guedes 110, Itaim Bibi (3167 5400/saintgermain.com.br). Open 6am10pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.10; sandwiches R$12.20-21.50.

Ibirapuera & Moema BAKERY Blés D’Or Temptation awaits

here in the form of bread fresh from the bakery, or sweet delights from the pâtisserie, such as eclairs and mille feuilles.

Stop in for a coffee or go for the weekend brunch buffet, with scrambled eggs, crêpes and cakes. Rua Tuim 653, Moema (5532 0183/blesdor.com.br) Open 7.30am10.30pm Mon-Fri; 8.30am-10.30pm Sat; 8.30am-6pm Sun. Prices cafezinho R$3.20; sandwiches R$19-$28.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana BAKERY Itiriki This bakery in Liberdade

is packed with more than 500 varieties of Asian, European and Brazilian treats. Try Japanese specialities like the melonpan (R$4.20) – bread with a touch of vanilla essence and buttery peel, or the ichigo daifuku (R$3.90), made with strawberries, a layer of rice and bean paste. Rua dos Estudantes 24, Liberdade (3277 4939/ bakeryitiriki.com). Metrô 1, Liberdade.

Open 8am-7pm daily. Prices cafezinho R$2.90; sandwiches R$3.50.

café Lady Fina The owner, ex-model Laura Wie, dug out old family recipe books to put together the menu here, whose highlights are the German-style desserts and pastries – original recipes from Wie’s grandmothers – like the Frau Sampio, an orange flan (R$9.50). Rua Loefgreen 2481, Vila Mariana (2359 2080). Open 11am7pm Mon-Fri. Prices cafezinho R$3.50; sandwiches R$16.30-$19.80.

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Out & About This month in São Paulo

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Art Shopping & Style Film Gay & Lesbian Music & Nightlife Performance Football & World Cup 2014

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Interior landscape Ana Elisa Egreja’s painting ‘Mesinha com Paisagem Rio’ at Galeria Leme in SP-Arte

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Art & Museums A cut above Featuring nearly 90 works, a new exhibition celebrates Marcelo Grassmann’s intriguing prints, says CM Gorey Otherworldly knights, ethereal spirits, agitated beasts – these are the beings that feature in the works of one of Brazil’s best-known and deeply admired printmakers, Marcelo Grassmann, who died last year at the age of 88.

‘Marcelo Grassmann: Gravuras do acervo da Pinacoteca’ (Prints from the Pinacoteca Collection), dips into the 387 works acquired by the Pinacoteca in 1969, selecting around 90 of his darkly enigmatic visions.

Grassmann began working with woodcuts in the 1940s, going on to incorporate metal-cut plates in the production of his prints. He found fame as an artist in Brazil in the 1950s, even before taking part in the Biennales of Venice (1958) and Florence (1972). His legacy is a life’s work of intensely compelling artworks – which was still being added to in 2012, when he released a limited-edition collection of lithographs in book form. Grassmann’s perplexing prints display a stylized expressionist rage – and capture humanity’s strength when we confront our monsters.

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‘Marcelo Grassmann: Gravuras do acervo da Pinacoteca’ is at Pinacoteca from 15 February to 25 May. See listings.

Dark knight Strange helmet details

Animal behaviour The contentious barnyard animal group of Marcelo Grassmann’s print convulse with acrimony

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Preview SP-Arte

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Art & Museums

Fair weather Stroll through stands by galleries from all over the world

Into its 10th annual edition this year, SP-Arte seems to just grow and grow. Having started out in 2005 with 41 galleries in attendance, this year the four-day show features 136 galleries. In contrast with the Bienal, São Paulo’s other major art event, which is coming up in September, SP-Arte is all about selling art, and it draws galleries hoping to do so from all over the world – 58 foreign galleries take part this year, from Latin America, Europe and beyond.

A visit to the fair makes for a highly eclectic experience: just dive in and wander the stands, soaking up the art and the atmosphere, observing the buzz around the galleries whose stars are in the ascendant, and the chin-up despair of the less fortunate gallerists, condemned to a four-day vigil as tumbleweeds whisper across the floors of their stands.

Make no mistake though: there’s plenty going on behind closed doors here, including hundreds of sales, some into the very high thousands, not to mention cocktail parties, brunches and private visits galore for the fair’s monied VIP guests.

Unlike the similarly commercial but more exclusive São Paulo Fashion Week, though, which takes place during the same period (ffw.com. br/spfw), there’s tons to do and see at SP-Arte even if you’re not in the art loop, and even if you don’t have

pots of money to spend, beyond the rather stiff R$40 entry fee. Check out the programme of debates, book launches and presentations at the event’s website, also in English.

Completing the arty extravaganza, a burst of parallel exhibitions will be opening at the same time in galleries SP-wide, including a brand new gallery space for the formerly closed-door gallery ArtEEdições, and a celebration of the 25th anniversary of the gallery Casa Triângulo, in the form of a one-off exhibition inside Pivô (see listings).

SP-Arte (sp-arte.com) is from 3-6 April at the Pavilhão da Bienal building, Parque do Ibirapuera (entrance via Portão 3). Open 1-9pm Thu-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun. Admission R$40, reductions R$20.

Eek A piece by Jake & Dinos Chapman, at ArtEEdições Galeria

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Hit SP-Arte for a dip into the international art scene, says Claire Rigby

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Art listings Dress rite Iwajla Klinke How to use the listings This section rounds up a selection of the city’s commercial galleries, ordered by area, followed by its museums and cultural centres.

Recommended institutions are marked with a .

Art & Museums

Listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues. Times and other details can change at short notice, so it’s a good idea to call ahead and check.

How to submit potential listings Please submit suggestions to arte@ guiatimeout.com.br.

Butantã Galeria Leme This bare concrete space, originally designed by Paulo Mendes da Rocha, winner of the 2006 Pritzker Prize for architecture, houses a dynamic outfit representing local and international artists, with a special focus on Latin America. At the beginning of 2012, the gallery upped sticks and moved to this new space, two blocks away from its original location. Avenida Valdemar Ferreira 130, Butantã (3093 8184/galerialeme.com) Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat . No credit cards.

Galeria Vermelho One of the most consistently interesting galleries in São Paulo, 10-year-old Galeria Vermelho sits at the top of imposing Avenida Paulista behind a blank façade that the gallery sometimes uses as a canvas.

Inside, in a set of spaces designed by the architect Paulo Mendes da Rocha, the gallery has a well earned reputation for championing emerging artists, investing considerable care and effort into their careers. Rua Minas Gerais 350, Higienópolis (3138 1520/ galeriavermelho.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Casa Triângulo This big, stylish white gallery is strong on Brazilian and international names, unafraid to shock, and doesn’t shy from variety. Founded in 1988, the gallery continues to play an essential part in championing emerging artists, Brazilian and otherwise, and takes part in a number of important international art fairs. Sergio Romagnolo, Joana Vasconcelos, young British artist Jack Strange, and psychedelic rangers Assume Vivid Astro Focus are some of the many artists represented by this always interesting gallery. Rua Paes de Araújo 77, Itaim Bibi (3167 5621/ casatriangulo.com.br). Open 11am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Luciana Brito Galeria This elegant gallery represents 20 high-calibre artists

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Consolação

After exhibitions in Europe and Canada last year, the work of the German photographer Iwajla Klinke features in the second major exhibition to be held at the recently opened Transarte gallery, following a stunning inaugural show featuring the work of Timothy Cummings last September.

Klinke’s naturally lit portraits play with the motifs and tones in the works of painters like Vermeer,

capturing ritualistic attire as seen in the traditional white dresses and headwear of Brazil’s Bahian women, and providing the gentle shock of an androgynous figure wearing a necklace of dead white mice. Ultra-colourful still-life pieces also adeptly display juxtaposed forms like crabs and flowers.

Transarte, Alamena Santos, 1518, Jardins (3142-9975/transarte. net). Until 11 June. FREE

from Brazil and abroad, including iconic names like Marina Abramovic, Regina Silveira and Mônica Nador, as well as emerging artists like Pablo Lobato. Rua Gomes de Carvalho 842, Vila Olímpia (3842 0634/lucianabritogaleria.com.br).

Open 10am-7pm Tue-Sat. No credit cards.

Galeria Marília Razuk Currently based in a highly discreet Itaim location, Marília Razuk has been showing Brazilian and international artists of great stature since 1992. An impressive roster includes the neoconcretist maestro Amilcar de Castro.

Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 131, Itaim Bibi (3079 0853/galeriamariliarazuk.com.br) Open 10.30am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am3pm Sat.

Galeria Oscar Cruz Oscar Cruz has been dealing in contemporary art in São Paulo for over 15 years, and takes part in the major international art fairs. The large gallery space, split over two floors, focuses on the work of contemporary Brazilian artists, covering a broad range of media from painting and photography to installation and sculpture. Rua Clodomiro Amazonas 526, Itaim Bibi (3167 0833/ galeriaoscarcruz.com.br). Open 11am7pm Tue-Fri; 11am-5pm Sat.

Jardins AM Galeria Horizonte After seven years located in Vila Nova Conceição, this gallery moved to a new larger space

in Jardins in 2011. The curator, Angela Martins, represents a roster of artists both in São Paulo and at AM Galeria’s other branch in Belo Horizonte, in the state of Minas Gerais. Rua Estados Unidos 273, Jardim Paulista (3044 1057/galeriahorizonte.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. No credit cards.

Arte Aplicada Galeria Brazilian contemporary artists using techniques including painting, drawing, sculpture and photography, are represented at this glass-fronted two-storey gallery. Rua Haddock Lobo 1406, Jardim Paulista (3064 4725/arteaplicada.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat. Canvas-SP Galeria After four years operating as a high-end art auction house, Canvas SP has opened a gallery in the same space. They’re keeping the auction and gallery arms of the business separate, although works by various well-known international artists appear in both. Look out for a sign that reads ‘Galeria de Arte’ on an all-glass facade on which the word ‘e-art’ is repeated in blue, as aside from these clues, the address is unmarked. Rua Joaquim Antunes 187, Jardim Paulistano (3061 5715/canvas-spgaleria.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; noon-4pm Sat. Cartel011 This long, thin, two-floor building in Pinheiros is a multi-purpose space that contains a stylish shop as well as a salon, a restaurant out back (Feed Food), and the gallery space. Rua Artur de Azevedo 517, Pinheiros (3081 4171/ cartel011.com.br). Open 10am-6pm Mon-Sat. Emma Thomas Following two years sharing a space with Barra Funda’s Baró Galeria, this hip young ‘emerging’ gallery is all grown up now, and settling into a brand new, purpose-built gallery in Jardins. The new building features a striking facade made of exposed bricks placed sideways-on to create a surface with hundreds of perforations. Inside, a classic white-cube exhibition space leads up to a large office the gallery plans to share with other creatives, as a kind of hub. And right on top, a terrace, looking out over the treetops of leafy Jardins.

Rua Estados Unidos 2205, Jardim Paulista (3666 6489/emmathomas.com. br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 11am5pm Sat. Galeria Luisa Strina This gallery, which now covers the entire ground floor of a Jardins office block, has been a cornerstone of the upmarket, contemporary art circuit since the 1970s. With excellent international connections, the gallery represents artists like Cildo Meireles and Antônio Dias, as well as mid-career artists such as Alexandre da Cunha. Rua Padre João Manuel 755, Jardim Paulista (3088 2471/galerialuisastrina.com.br). Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. No credit cards.

Mendes Wood Injecting a dash of youthful zest and daring into the city’s art scene, Mendes Wood is owned by galleristas Pedro Mendes, Felipe Dmab and Matthew Wood, the latter from the USA. This is a cutting-edge gallery whose artists now include Brazil’s foremost conceptual artist, Tunga, as well as a roster of bright young things.

Rua da Consolação 3358, Jardim Paulista (3081 1735/ mendeswood.com).

Metrô 2, Consolação. Open 10am-7pm Mon-Sat. No credit cards.

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Museums & cultural centres acclaimed Brazilian artists of the likes of Regina Silveira, Cildo Meireles and Leonilson. Its mission is to showcase contemporary and modern Brazilian art, and it also has a 6,000-square-metre sculpture garden. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral, Parque do Ibirapuera (5085 1300/mam.org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$5.50; free reductions. Free to all Sun. Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) São Paulo’s flagship museum is an imposing red concrete-and-glass box suspended on four concrete columns, which dominates Avenida Paulista.

Inside, it’s the Greatest Hits of World Art, Vols. 1-10. There’s a Picasso, a Gainsborough, a Hieronymus Bosch and a Goya, as well as big Brazilian names like Cândido Portinari and Anita Malfatti. In short, it’s the best collection of European and Brazilian art in South America – even if only around 500 of the museum’s 7,000 works are on show at any given time. Avenida Paulista 1578 (3251 5644/masp.art.br). Metrô 2, Trianon-MASP. Open 10am-6pm Tue, Wed; 10am-8pm Thu; 10am-6pm FriSun (ticket office open until half an hour before closing). Admission R$15; R$7 reductions. Free to all Tue. Museu de Arte Sacra Frei Galvão, the first Brazilian to be canonised (in 2007), founded this monastery in 1774. The museum houses a fantastic collection of over 4,000 pieces of art, of

which about 800 are on display. Most of the sculptures are made of clay and wood. A special room exhibits Nossa Senhora da Luz, a painting brought from Portugal in 1603 that gave its name to the neighbourhood. Avenida Tiradentes 676 (3326 1373/.museuartesacra.org. br). Open 10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; free reductions. Free to all Sat. No credit cards..

Museu da Casa Brasileira Previously owned by the Prado family, powerful local coffee barons, this beautifully preserved mansion houses a museum focused on interior design.

The collection includes furniture from the 17th to the 21st centuries, but the museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. There’s a great restaurant here too – Quinta do Museu – and, on Sunday mornings, the terrace and garden are the site of delightful free music performances. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima 2705, Jardim Paulistano (3032 3727/mcb.sp.gov.br). Open 10am6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; free Sun. Museu do Futebol The fascinating Museu do Futebol uses modern technology to tell the story of Brazilian football. A large collection of video, photos and documents are on show, as are interactive games and events to stimulate young supporters into learning the facts behind their favourite sport.

Praça Charles Miller 1, Pacaembu (3663

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Intimate art Personal Miró

Bringing together 69 works by the influential Catalan artist Joan Miró, ‘A Magia de Miró, Desenhos e Gravuras’ (The Magic of Miró, Drawings and Prints) features illustrations made by Miró between 1962 and his death in 1983, late-career sketches and notes, plus 23 photographs that offer an insight into his creative process. At Caixa Cultural São Paulo (see listings). Until 20 April. FREE

3848/museudofutebol. org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; R$2 reductions; free under-7s and Thu. Museu da Imagem e do Som (MIS) A makeover in 2008 revitalised this stark, concrete building, which is home to a collection of 30,000 items in the shape of photos, films and records.

It also stages innovative temporary exhibitions and retrospectives, as well as the very popular Green Sunset series of parties, monthly on Saturday afternoons. Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br).

Open noon-9pm Tue-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Admission R$4; R$2 reductions; seniors free. No credit cards.

Museu Lasar Segall A jewel in São Paulo’s roster of museums, the Museu Lasar Segall is the former home of Lithuanian-born Modernist artist Lasar Segall, who moved to Brazil in 1923. Established in 1967, ten years after Segall’s death, the multi-use space encompasses a printing workshop, small cinema, café and temporary exhibition spaces as well as a semi-permanent collection of Segall’s paintings, sculpture and furniture, created throughout his career. Rua Berta 111, Vila Mariana (2159 0400/museusegall.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Mariana. Open 11am-7pm Mon,Wed-Sun. Museu da Língua Portuguesa The Portuguese language is a meeting point for distant countries and diverse cultures, and the imposing totems on this museum’s first floor make for a brilliant introduction. The exhibits are visually striking, though note that there are no signs in English.

Praça da Luz, Centro (3326 0775/ museudalinguaportuguesa.org.br).

Metrô 1, Luz. Open Tue-Sun 10am6pm; Admission R$4; reductions free; free Sat. PORTUGUESE Pinacoteca do Estado São Paulo’s oldest, most traditional major institution was designed in 1897 by Ramos de Azevedo, and originally housed São Paulo’s first art school. Many of the most important Brazilian Modernists are on display here, Cândido Portinari, Anita Malfatti and Di Cavalcanti included. Praça da Luz, Luz (3324 1000/ pinacoteca.org.br) Metrô 1, Luz. Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; students R$3. Free to all Sat. No credit cards. Other location Estação Pinacoteca, Largo General Osório 66, Centro (3335 4990). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Admission Included in Pinacoteca admission price.

Pivô Set in the heart of one of SP’s most iconic buildings – Oscar Niemeyer’s Copan – this sprawling space opened during the Bienal in 2012. Run by an energetic bunch of arty types, the huge gallery kicked off with an ambitious, brilliantly realised group show that took over most of its many spaces, and has since also been a venue for performance pieces. If there’s something on at Pivô, don’t miss the chance to get inside this amazing building. Avenida Ipiranga 200, loja 48, Centro (3255 8703/pivo. org.br). Metrô 1, República. Open noon6pm Tue-Sat.

Art & Museums

Caixa Cultural Owned by the Caixa Econômica Federal bank, this gallery contains 2,000 artworks including paintings, sculptures and carvings by generations of Brazilian artists.

Praça da Sé 111, Centro (3321 4400/ caixacultural.com.br) Open 9am-9pm Tue-Sun.w Catavento Cultural Located in the beautiful Palácio das Industrias, Catavento is a cultural and educational museum. Its mission is to provide children with fun and interactive ways to learn, and it covers topics including space, the human body and Brazilian geography and wildlife. No tickets sold after 4pm. Palácio das Indústrias, Praça Cívica Ulisses Guimarães, Parque Dom Pedro II, Centro (cataventocultural. org.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 9am-5pm Tue-Sun. Admission R$6; free-R$3 reductions.

Centro Cultural São Paulo São Paulo’s aerodynamic-looking Cultural Centre, perched atop a steep hill beside the Avenida 23 de Maio thoroughfare, is quite an impressive and clever architectural feat. Art exhibitions, film festivals, performances and workshops are held in the vast, multi-level space.

A spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden with a restaurant and café where you can sit and enjoy views of the city skyline. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Aclimação (3397 4002/centrocultural.sp.gov.br).

Metrô 1, Vergueiro. Open 10am-8pm Tue-Fri; 10am-6pm weekends, public holidays. FREE Itaú Cultural This bank-owned cultural centre stages some of the best shows in town, from standout fine art to regular exhibitions on all sorts of aspects of culture, including digital. It also has a library containing audiovisual research material as well as more traditional sources. Avenida Paulista 149, Bela Vista (2168 1777/itaucultural. org.br). Open 9am-8pm Tue-Fri; 11am8pm Sat, Sun. Matilha Cultural A socially-minded cultural space in the Centro, Matilha Cultural organises events, courses, film screenings and art exhibitions, which are generally free. With the environment in mind, Matilha was built using certified and reclaimed wood and serves vegetarian food in its café. Rua Rego Freitas 542, (3256 2636/matilhacultural. com.br). Open noon-8pm Tue-Fri; noon10pm Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Museu Afro Brasil The AfroBrazil museum is, quite simply, one of the jewels in the crown of Parque do Ibirapuera. Due to its late abolition, slavery is still an open wound in Brazil’s history; and a closer look at the impressive collection of paintings, photographs and clothing in this museum emphasises the impact African culture has had, and still has, on modern Brazil. Avenida Pedro Álvares Cabral (no number), Parque do Ibirapuera (4004 5006/museuafrobrasil.org.br). Open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. FREE Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) Founded in 1948 and based on New York’s Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), the MAM contains over 5,000 works by

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Shopping & Style Shopping malls

Markets Feira de Arte, Artesanato e Cultura da Liberdade (Feira da Liberdade) This weekly fair has been going since 1975, and remains one of São Paulo’s best loved Sunday passeios. Its 240 stalls mostly compete for your stomach, with a vast range of Japanese and Chinese fast-food treats on offer at a reasonable price. Jewellery, bonsai trees, aquarium fish and bamboo kitchen utensils are merely secondary. Melona ‘creamsicles’ – a curious and delicious South Korean ice-cream phenomenon – have become synonymous with Liberdade, and are available in most grocery stores and some restaurants. Praça da Liberdade, Liberdade (3208 5090). Metrô 1, Liberdade. Open 9am- 6pm Sat, Sun. Feira da República Running continuously since 1956, this open-air centre has 600 stands and a wide selection of food, including Japanese yakisoba; acarajé, the deep-fried Bahian shrimp treat;

and common or garden hot dogs. There is also a large open-air gallery where local artists sell paintings. Praça da República, República. Metrô 3, República. Open 9am-5pm Sat, Sun. Mercado Municipal (Mercadão) The Mercadão, as it’s called, is a laboratory of the edible, spanning all of the city’s most important ethnic cuisines and displaying an incredibly colourful array of fruit and vegetables. There’s an abundance of native fruits, as well as exotic offerings from Asia.

Linger interestedly at a fruit stall, and you’ll be invited to taste a piece of pitaya, mamey or mangostim; or just pick up slices of cold pineapple and more unusual fruit salads for a few reais. The famous bacalhau (Portuguese-style salt cod), with its aroma of olive oil and a melt-in-yourmouth quality, is a Mercadão favourite.

It can be tried in the form of a pastry at Hocca Bar, or bought at a number of shops in the labyrinthine market. Parque Dom Pedro II, Rua da Cantareira 306, Sé (3313 1326/mercadomunicipal.com.br). Metrô 1, São Bento. Open 6am-6pm Mon-Sat; 6am-4pm Sun.

Strip tease Brazil’s hybrid home kits

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Cidade Jardim There are more malls in São Paulo than you could visit in a lifetime, but only one for which Kate Moss serves as the public face, having recently bumped Sarah Jessica Parker off the bill. The lavishly swish mall, with its picturesque roof terrace, features Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Montblanc, Red Valentino and Brazilian designer Carlos Miele. Don’t miss Chocolat du Jour, possibly the best chocolate store in town.

Taxi, private car or helicopter are the only means of arrival allowed. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Morumbi (3552 1000/shoppingcidadejardimjhsf. com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 2-8pm Sun, holidays. Hours at food kiosks and restaurants vary.

Conjunto Nacional It’s said that every day, 30,000 people pass through this complex, one of Avenida Paulista’s most famous landmarks. This David Libeskind project from 1958 is innovative in its housing of businesses, flats and shops.

Revamped after a fire broke out in 1978, the complex is home to the bookshop founded by Kurt and Eva Herz, Livraria Cultura, and to one of São Paulo’s best cinemas, Cine Livraria Cultura. The digital clock and thermometer that crown the building are a landmark and a daily reference for countless paulistanos.

Avenida Paulista 2073, Consolação (3179 0000/ccn.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 7am-10pm Mon-Fri; 10am-10pm Sat, Sun & holidays.

JK Iguatemi With its slick, high-shine floors, wood-clad elevators and huge windows that – unusually for a shopping centre – let the light pour in, JK is just what São Paulo’s chic elite will have been expecting from this newest of its many malls. Besides some of the city’s top restaurants (Varanda, Tre Bicchieri, Ici Brasserie, Spot) and predictable synonyms for luxury like Chanel and Bulgari, look out for real coups like the first Brazilian branches of Sephora, and of London’s Topshop and its brother brand, Topman. Avenida Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek 2041,Vila Olímpia (3152 6813/jkiguatemi.com.br). Open 10.30am-11pm Mon-Fri; 10am-11pm Sat; 11am-10pm Sun. Hours at shops, bars and restaurants may vary.

Market Place This is a small, bijou mall that goes for quality, not quantity. A middle-upper-class stamping ground with classy shops and beautiful décor, it also has an excellent food court with a huge variety of options. Go for baby back ribs at Outback, check out Mango’s Smoothies and Brigaderia, and don’t miss the shops Le Lis Blanc and Calvin Klein. Avenida Doutor Chucri Zaidan 902, Santo Amaro (3048 7000/marketplace.com.br). Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Pátio Higienópolis Located on a pleasantly leafy boulevard in this lovely upmarket neighbourhood, this mall is at first hard to distinguish from the mansions and 1950s residential buildings around it. It’s popular for its branch of the high-end pizza joint Bar des Arts, and brands like Calvin Klein underwear and L’Occitane.

Avenida Higienópolis 618, Higienópolis (3823 2300/patiohigienopolis.com.br).

Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro. Open 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

Pátio Paulista The largest mall on Avenida Paulista is home to chains like Zara, Luigi Bertolli and Hering. The sleek interior appeals to Avenida Paulista businessmen, primarily for midday trips to the food court, while kids flock to its small three-screen movie theatre. Rua Treze de Maio 1947, Paraíso (3191 1100/shoppingpaulista.com.br). Metrô 2 & 1, Paraíso. Open 10am-10pm MonSat, 11am-8pm Sun & holidays. Hours at stores, bars and restaurants vary.

No different from the incessant football club rivalries across other Latin American countries and Europe, Brazil’s in-state derbies have been known to bring out the worst in the country’s ardent fans, perhaps never more so – as São Paulo’s ongoing, and all-too-often tragic, football violence has shown – than when proud supporters wear their kits in enemy territory. Enter the rapidly approaching World Cup which, for all the bad press and anxiety surrounding it, is a timely opportunity for fans to set aside bad blood and support the Brazilian national team as one. Banking on local fans to embrace this happy medium, São Paulo state’s Palmeiras, Corinthians and Santos – along with other Brazilian teams – have released bright yellow versions of their strips so that, in the best spirit of peace off the pitch, supporters can unite behind the country’s attempt to become six-time champion. Here’s hoping the hybrid kits help rival fans celebrate football together in peace and harmony. Corinthians and Santos, R$229.90 (nike.com. br); Palmeiras, R$249.90 (adidas.com.br). Online and in sports shops citywide.

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Film Reviews

François Duhamel/press image

Saving Mr. Banks

Welcome to Disney’s world Emma Thompson saves the day as the witty Pamela Travers, who negotiates her book rights with Tom Hanks’s Walt Disney

François Duhamel/press image

Dir. John Lee Hancock. USA, UK, Australia, 2013. Emma Thompson, Tom Hanks, Colin Farrell. 125 mins.

Poppins precursor Rachel Griffiths

Emma Thompson gives good battleaxe. She is on Oscar-winning form in John Lee Hancock’s Saving Mr. Banks, playing Mary Poppins author Pamela Travers as a cross between Jeremy Paxman and Maggie Smith in Downtown Abbey. On a plane from London to Los Angeles, she peers down her spectacles at a toddler, lips pinched: ‘Will the child be a nuisance? It is an 11-hour flight.’

Mrs. T is on her way to lock horns with Walt Disney (Tom Hanks), who has been courting her for the film rights to her beloved Mary Poppins for 20 years. Flat broke,

she can’t say no, but Disney stands for everything she hates: ‘I won’t have her turned into one of your silly cartoons.’

You have to feel a bit sorry for Travers. This is a Disney film, so Uncle Walt gets an easy ride, twinkly and kind – with no sign of the controlling, darkly-driven side of the man. Instead, it’s Travers who gets lumbered with the issues – daddy issues. Flashbacks (a few too many) to her chaotic childhood in Australia explain why she’s a stickler for rules. Colin Farrell (who also twinkles, but not half as much as Hanks), plays her alcoholic father – a dreamer full of tall tales to cast spells on little girls, but not enough sense to hold down a job. Like the Banks family in Mary Poppins, this lot are in need of a firm hand and a stiff

broom. And here we get a glimpse of the inspiration for Mary Poppins, when Travers’s aunt Ellie (Rachel Griffiths) sweeps into the house with a carpet bag.

Back in LA, Jason Schwartzman and BJ Novak offer a cute double act as the Mary Poppins songwriters, who hide their draft of ‘Supercalifragilistic’ from Travers’s prying eyes. The whole thing goes down with a few bucketloads of sugar. What keeps it from becoming sticky schmaltz is the excellent Emma Thompson, who plays Travers with wit and warmth, adding a spoonful of spoilt child to help the battleaxe go down. Cath Clarke Saving Mr. Banks (Walt nos Bastidores de Mary Poppins) is released on 14 March.

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All is Lost

film e of th h t mon

Film

Men of steel and iron have grunted their way through blockbusters before. But you’re not going to see anything as tough – or as goddamned manly – as Robert Redford coolly staring into a mirror shaving as a storm pounds his sailboat to smithereens around him. All Is Lost is a survival movie, an especially pure one at that. Apart from a brief spoken introduction (and a well-earned mid-plight swear), it has no words, just one actor – plus a beautiful 39-foot yacht that suffers a heart-wrenching puncture from a wayward shipping container.

But as ‘Our Man’ (seriously, that’s how Redford is credited) tends to the gaping hole, a piece of performance magic comes together. The bits of business, confidently handled by Redford like the saltiest of sea dogs, are absorbing in themselves. But what’s the guy doing cruising by himself, weeks off the coast

paris filmes/press image

Dir. JC Chandor. USA, 2013.

Robert Redford. 106 mins.

Survivorman Redford weathers the storm, virtually without a peep, in the one-man tour de force, ‘All is Lost’

of Africa? When he breaks out a nautical sextant still in the box, why does he linger over the gift card? For keen viewers, the smallest gesture adds to the

mystery of this loner. Redford, already a giant, has never been better. His character’s misadventure might be a kind of cosmic penance. It’s definitely

the salvation of the moviegoing year. Joshua Rothkopf All is Lost (Até o Fim) is released on 7 March.

Labor Day

Dale Robinette/press image

Dir. Jason Reitman. USA, 2013.

Kate Winslet, Josh Brolin, Gattlin Griffith. 111 mins.

Just peachy Josh Brolin works his way into Winslet’s home in ‘Labor Day’

Here’s an idea for Her Majesty’s Prison Service to raise a few pennies: a rent-a-convict scheme.

It works wonders for Kate Winslet in Labor Day. She plays depressed single-mum Adele, who takes in an escaped prisoner, Frank (Josh Brolin), over the Labor Day holiday weekend. He turns out to be a dream houseguest, making himself useful around the house, fixing creaky doors, cleaning out the guttering, and even versing her 13-year-old son Henry (Gattlin Griffith) in the ways of manhood.

And he bakes a pie – a sticky sensual scene that rises into an emotional peak like the peaches piled in the cake tin. It could do more for sales of flour than the Great British Bake Off. If you have even the tiniest cynical bone in your body, avoid.

You’ll find Labor Day more sugary than a cronut. Based on a 2009 novel by Joyce Maynard, it’s a shift in gear for director Jason Reitman,

whose back-catalogue is filled with sarky-sweet comedies like Juno.

What keeps this out of Nicholas Sparks bumper-paperback territory are terrific performances and Reitman’s control of the drama. The early scenes are nailbiting. ‘This needs to happen,’ Frank menaces, wrapping his big hand around little Henry’s neck as he forces himself into their home.

For 20 minutes you don’t know if he’s going to murder Adele and Henry in their beds or scramble them some eggs.

If any other actress was playing Adele it would be the performance of a life. But this is Kate Winslet, who can pull off Oscar-grade without breaking sweat. Possibly Labor Day is not strong enough to send another Oscar nomination her way, but she is Revolutionary Road-brilliant – once again, somehow, making an epic the story of an ordinary woman. And making Josh Brolin furrow his brows with manly determination.

Cath Clarke Labor Day (Refém da Paixão) is released on 14 March.

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Oldboy

Hilary Bronwyn Gayle/press image

Dir. Spike Lee, USA, 2013. Josh Brolin, Sharlto Copley, Elisabeth Oslen. 104 mins.

Hammer it out Lee’s vulgar protagonist (Brolin) exacts revenge with a hammer

Spike Lee has always thrived on discontent, and you can vaguely recognise the young director of Do The Right Thing and Malcolm X in Oldboy, his slick remake of Korean director Park Chan-wook’s violent 2003 revenge thriller. The plot is ludicrous: a businessman, Joe (Josh Brolin) is kidnapped, imprisoned for 20 years in a tiny hotel room, then, just as cryptically, released to seek out answers. But like a pro, Lee owns it, roughing up the pulp elements with sheer mouthiness.

As the captive, Brolin gives us a vulgar madman, riding high on vodka and the anger of divorce. It’s wonderful watching him suffer, the years passing by in a blur. Pathetic meals of takeaway dumplings come through a chute, and images of

presidential inaugurations are piped in via a monitor. When Joe finally emerges into a faintly unreal today (shot in New Orleans, the city isn’t named), he has Michael Imperioli (The Sopranos) as a bar-owning friend to greet him and shake things up a bit: where’s Joe’s daughter?

Fans of the first Oldboy will recall an action scene involving a hammer and several skulls. That’s here, but Lee’s desperate bike chase through Chinatown tops it.

Weaknesses from the original film remain, including a moustachetwirling villain (Sharlto Copley) straight out of a Bond film and a Freudian masterplan that unravels the more you think about it. Give credit to Lee for staying fresh, even if this feels like him slumming it.

Joshua Rothkopf Oldboy (Oldboy – Dias de Vingança) is released on 11 April.

Film

Out of the Furnace

Has Christian Bale done the world a favour by hanging up his bat wings? He is everywhere at the moment, making his comeback as a character actor and reminding us there’s much more to him than a latex mask and whispery growl.

Hilarious in American Hustle as an overweight conman with a combover, he is the best thing in this violent, cheesily macho American thriller from Crazy Heart director Scott Cooper. Bale disappears into the role as an ordinary guy with everything against him, giving an authentic, white-knuckle performance. Shame about the rest of the film, which aims for Bruce Springsteen with its blue-collar big themes and stadium-rock emotion, but ends up as a bandana-wearing cliché.

Bale is Russell, the strong, silent type and a guy who lives by the rules. Trouble is, the rules aren’t rules any more. The Pennsylvania steel factory where he works is closing – it’s cheaper to import from China. Russell looks after his dying dad and keeps his soldier brother Rodney (Casey Affleck) out of trouble. After a road accident lands him in prison, Russell steps out of jail to find Rodney – an

imagem filmes/press image

Dir. Scott Cooper, USA, UK, 2013.

Christian Bale, Zoë Saldana, Woody Harrelson. 117 mins.

American psychos Woody Harrelson and Christian Bale’s performances keep things tense in ‘Out of the Furnace’

Iraq veteran too proud to settle for a blue-collar job – bare-knuckle boxing to pay off his gambling debts. Enter lollipop-sucking hillbilly psychopath Harlan DeGroat (Woody Harrelson), who sleazy drug dealer John Petty (Willem Dafoe) reluctantly pits Rodney against for one last highstakes fight.

Out of the Furnace won’t win prizes for originality. Even the script knows how packed with clichés it is: ‘I’m meant to be scared of you because you’re sucking on a lollipop,’ Affleck says to Harrelson.

The film would be a complete joke were it not for a few unpredictable, incredibly tense scenes and some undeniably powerful acting. Bale

is as good as it gets, Harrelson shows us yet again why he is Hollywood’s favourite psycho and Willem Dafoe is terrific as a lowlife swindler. The rest of the film, however, is without a bat squeak of authenticity. Cath Clarke Out of the Furnace (Tudo por Justiça) is released on 7 March.

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Main cinemas

Film fest É Tudo Verdade

How to use the listings This section lists the major downtown cinemas, including both mainstream movie theatres and our pick of the city’s arthouse and indie cinemas, and other film venues.

Film

Centro, Luz & Bom Retiro Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil Built in 1901 and restored in 1927 as the first Banco do Brasil in São Paulo, this imposing former bank in the middle of the old city is now a cultural centre, with a café, art exhibitions, theatre and educational programmes.

The CCBB cinema programme often includes engrossing retrospectives of internationally renowned directors. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/bb.com.br/cultura). Metrô 1 or 3, Sé or São Bento. 1 screen, 70 seats.

Tickets R$4; R$2 reductions.

Consolação & Higienópolis Espaço Itaú de Cinema Augusta This cinema, which until recently was known as Espaço Unibanco, is divided into two spaces on either side of Rua Augusta. If you arrive before the movie showtime, feel free to visit the small bookstore located on the odd numbered side of the street, which holds many cultural works and has a good café. Rua Augusta 1470 and 1475, Consolação (3288 6780/itaucinemas.com.br).

Metrô 2, Consolação. 5 screens, 51263 seats. Tickets R$14-$22; R$7-$11 reductions; R$10-$20.

Lapa, Perdizes & Barra Funda Espaço Itaú de Cinema Pompéia This cinema is known for having been the first to show movies in 3D Imax in Brazil, and still has the city’s largest screen. Screen 10 is VIP with bigger reclineable chairs. Rua Turiassu 2100, 3rd floor, Bourbon Pompéia Shopping (3673 3949/www.itaucinemas.com.br).

Metrô 3, Barra Funda. 11 screens, 60-327 seats. Tickets R$16-$24; R$8$12 reductions. IMAX tickets R$25-$37; R$12.50-$18.50 reductions. 3D films R$26-$28; R$13-$14 reductions.

Vila Madalena & Pinheiros Cine-Clube Socioambiental Crisantempo Every Thursday at 8pm, this theatre/cinema combo shows national and international documentaries about social and environmental issues.

PRESS IMAGE

Listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out São Paulo does not accept compensation of any kind in exchange for listing events or venues.

screening rooms, six are VIP. The other two aren’t too shabby, either: one uses Imax technology and the other, with 4D capacity, can use up to 20 special effects to enhance the viewing experience. It doesn’t come cheap though ­– tickets are are much as R$68. Avenida Juscelino Kubitschek 2041, 4th floor, Vila Olímpia (3152 6605/jk.cinepolis.com.br).

8 screens, 67-382 seats. Tickets R$34$68; R$17-$34 reductions.

Kinoplex Itaim Housed in the Brascan complex, this cinema is located near a food court with a great variety of restaurants as well as a number of bars for longer nights out. Screens have comfortable armchairs with adjustable head and armrests. Screens mainstream films. Rua Joaquim Floriano 466, Itaim Bibi (3131 2004/kinoplex.com. br). 6 screens, 155-312 seats. Tickets R$10-$26; R$5-$13 reductions; 3D films R$28-$31; R$14-$15,50 reductions.

Liberdade, Bela Vista & Vila Mariana With the World Cup looming, the wave of street protest that swept Brazil last year heating up for another round, and the 50th anniversary of Brazil’s military coup d’état due on 31 March, the timing has rarely been better for the international documentary film festival, ‘É Tudo Verdade’ (It’s All True), now in its 19th edition. In line with the highly topical themes of freedom of speech and human rights, one of the festival’s highlights will be the Danish documentary, The Fake Case, which tells the story of the Chinese artist and human rights activist Ai Wei Wei, who has long criticised his country’s government policies and who was arrested in China in 2011 and detained without charge for nearly three months. É Tudo Verdade takes place from 10 March to 15 April in cinemas across the city. See the full programme at etudoverdade.com.br.

It’s located in a two-storey house, which includes a dance studio, in the lively neighbourhood of Vila Madalena. Rua Fidalga 521, Vila Madalena (3814 2850/ cineclubesocioambiental.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Madalena. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE

Jardins Cine Livraria Cultura This cinema may have just a few screens, but the ample space and interesting programming, packed with independent films, more than compensates. It also also has the advantage of location – next door to the excellent bookshop Livraria Cultura, on the ground floor of the Conjunto Nacional building, on the bustling corner of Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. Avenida Paulista 2073, Conjunto Nacional, Consolação (3285 3696/cinelivrariacultura.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. 2 screens, 100-300 seats.

Tickets R$14-$20; R$7-$10 reductions.

CineSESC This charming cinema on Rua Augusta has a bar at the back, separated by a glass screen, where you can enjoy a drink as you watch a film.

One of the most popular cinemas for film buffs, it screens art-house movies and hosts a number of annual film

festivals. Rua Augusta 2075, Consolação (3087 0500/sescsp.org.br). Metrô 2, Consolação. Tickets R$6-$12.

Museu da Imagem e do Som This cinema is located inside the MIS – the Museum of Image and Sound.

The stark, concrete, white building in Jardins houses an impressive archive of films, videos, photos and musical compositions, and hosts innovative temporary exhibitions and concerts.

Avenida Europa 158, Jardim Europa (2117 4777/mis-sp.org.br). 2 screens, 66177 seats. Tickets R$ 4; R$2 reductions.

Reserva Cultural This pleasant spot has a small café and a restaurant-bar with large windows through which you can watch the comings and goings along the city’s main avenue. Avenida Paulista 900, Bela Vista (3287 3529/ reservacultural.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro or Trianon-Masp. 4 screens, 110-190 seats. Tickets R$17-$24; R$8.50-$12 reductions.

Itaim Bibi & Vila Olímpia Cinépolis JK Opened in 2012 in the swish JK Iguatemi shopping mall, this cinema is all about luxury – of its eight

Centro Cultural São Paulo – Sala Lima Barreto This intimate cinema is part of a large, layered, steel and concrete building that also houses theatre, music and dance programmes, and art exhibitions. Established in 1982, the Centro Cultural was one of the city’s first multidisciplinary cultural centres, and its library, the second largest in the city, has excellent art and Braille sections. The cinema has a second screen with an additional 100 seats as of January 2013. Screenings are at a token cost (R$1). Rua Vergueiro 1000, Paraíso (3397 4054/ centrocultural.sp.gov.br). Metrô 1, Vergueiro. 1 screen, 100 seats. FREE Sala Cinemateca This former municipal slaughterhouse, a beautiful brick building with a garden in its interior patio, houses an important Brazilian film archive and an arthouse cinema that hosts events from the Mostra Internacional de Cinema de São Paulo, the city’s international film festival. Largo Senador Raul Cardoso 207, Vila Mariana (3512 6111/ cinemateca.gov.br). 2 screens, 108-210 seats. Tickets R$8; R$4 reductions.

Cine Segall This small-screen cinema forms part of the Lasar Segall Museum, a charming period house named after the Lithuanian-born artist who once lived there. The cinema also houses an art library and a café. Rua Berta 111, Vila Mariana (2159 0400/ museusegall.org.br). Metrô 1, Vila Mariana. 1 screen, 92 seats. Tickets R$10; R$5 reductions.

Brooklin, Morumbi & Berrini Cinemark Cidade Jardim Has gigantic screens, digital sound and projection, and love seats. Also includes two screens in the Cinemark Premier style, reclineable leather armchairs with foot rests, a lounge area, wine list, and special popcorn seasoned with flavoured oils – all with a high price tag. Avenida Magalhães de Castro 12000, Cidade Jardim (3552 1800/cinemark.com.br).

7 screens, 72-274 seats. Tickets R$22$53; R$11-$26,50 reductions; 3D films R$28-$57; R$14-$.28,50 reductions.

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Gay & Lesbian Listings

Flashback doc Gay nightlife

‘Bar da Lôca’ The always-crowded ‘bar on the corner’ is actually the neighbourhood bakery-cum-watering hole officially named Bar Tom Zé. Its proximity to nearby club A Lôca turned it into the club’s unofficial waiting room. The crowd is mixed, sheltering twinks, bears and closet cases. It’s often standing-room only. Rua Frei Caneca 106, Consolação (3256 1946). Open 7pm-midnight Mon-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6; caipirinha R$8.

Espaço Caê On Saturday and Sunday afternoons at this friendly spot, there’s a live samba band followed by samba rock, axé and funk. But it’s the Thursday and Friday nights that draw the big crowds, for one reason only: karaoke.

Rua Aurora 737, Centro (3852 5637/ espacocae.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open 7pm-midnight Thu; 7pm-1am Fri; 8.30pm-1am Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Prices can of beer R$4; caipirinha R$7.

Cover R$10.

How to use the listings This section contains our pick of the city’s GLS (gay, lesbian and sympathisers) clubs and bars. We also include a selection of gay or gay-friendly cafés and restaurants, plus gyms, saunas and other suggestions. Recommended listings are marked with a , lesbian or lesbian-friendly listings with a , and venues aimed specifically at men are marked with a .

A Lôca If the image of Alice in Wonderland’s Queen of Hearts as the club’s logo doesn’t say it all, then the names of the parties – Tapa na Pantera (Brazilian slang for getting high) and Loucuras – Portuguese for madness – say the rest.

Things can get crazy in this cavernous space where techno and pop music keeps the frisky twinks and trannies dancing.

Rua Frei Caneca 916, Consolação (3159 8889/aloca.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open midnight-7am Thu-Sat; 8pm-6am Sun. Admission R$25.

ABC Bailão This is a favourite with the over-50s crowd and its admirers. The music ranges from romantic ballads and vintage pop to sertanejo (Brazilian country music) and axé (Bahian music). Rua Marquês de Itu 182, República (3361 7964/abcbailao. com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 9pm3am Thu; 11pm-5am Fri, Sat; 9pm-3am Sun. Admission R$15-$20.

Blue Space The tea dance at this spot culminates with the funniest drag shows in town – and some of the hottest go-go boys.

Most of the stage productions, which have inspired a cult following on YouTube, are so elaborate they could teach Cher a thing or two about costume changes. The crowd is mixed: post-adolescents share space with muscle marys. Rua Brigadeiro Galvão 723, Barra Funda (3666 1616/bluespace. com.br). Metrô 3, Marechal Deodoro.

Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7am-1pm Sun. Admission R$20-$28.

Bubu Lounge On Fridays, this club can get crowded and it can get hot, in every way imaginable. Get there early to avoid the queue, but once inside, be ready for some action, with hip beats in the entrance lounge, house and electronic on the dancefloor, and shake-yourbooty songs upstairs. Once a month, there’s Bubu Só Para Elas: ladies only.

Bubu Lounge, Rua dos Pinheiros 791, Pinheiros (3081 9659/bubulounge.com.

PRESS IMAGE

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Clubs

Bars

Armed with the testimonials of entrepreneurs, DJs, drag queens, journalists and club regulars, director Lufe Steffen goes in search of the city’s gay scene’s history in São Paulo em Hi-Fi. Focusing on the pioneering figures of the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s, the film captures their personal stories, showing how they paved the way for SP nightlife in the 21st century. Epicentro Cultural, Rua Paulistânia 66, Vila Madalena (3938 6096/ epicentrocultural.com). 8pm, 20 March. Free. br). Open 11.30pm-late Wed-Sat: 7pmlate Sun. Admission R$10-$60.

Cantho Dance Club Cantho is a sleeper hit with a smokin’, democratic crowd representing all the flavours: twinks, bears, muscle-heads, preppy boys and trannies. One of the best kept secrets in town is their monthly after-hours party when the DJ whips up deep tribal house right from the start on Sunday mornings.

The area is a little sketchy, but never fear – there’s a police post right across the street. Largo do Arouche 32, Centro (3362 1530/cantho.com.br). Metrô 3, República. Open 11pm-7am Fri-Sun. Admission R$25-$35.

Espaço Muss Can’t get up to Salvador?

Head downtown to this crowded, steamy spot for a sweet taste of Afro-Brazil. The tiny dancefloor is packed wall-to-wall with men jamming to live samba and DJ spun axé, hip hop and funk carioca. Rua Bento Freitas 66, República (3361 4160/ espacomuss.com.br). Metrô 3, República.

Open 8pm-late Wed; 9pm-late Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$15.

The L Club In this girls’ club, you get all sorts: from Ellen DeGeneres and Portia de Rossi types to everything in

between. On Friday’s, there’s live MPB in the outside lounge area, but the main dance floor rocks with tribal house. Rua Luís Murat 370, Vila Madalena (2604 3393/thelclub.com.br). Open 11pm-6am Fridays only. Admission R$15-$20.

The Week This party is what every other club (gay or straight) is trying to copy.

It’s the city’s main gay party and a national brand, with summer-season clones in Rio and Florianópolis, and an average of 2,000 muscle boys, straight couples, celebrities and hipsters crowding the dancefloors. Rua Guaicurus 324, Lapa (3868 9944/theweek. com.br). Open midnight-8.30am Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$11; caipirinha R$21; cover R$35-$70.

Tunnel With exuberant music in the main room and vintage pop on the lower level, this party is usually full of young boys new to the gay scene. Be warned that it gets a bit crowded, but there’s always the restaurant upstairs for a break and a snack. Don’t get too drunk, though: the place is full of stairs. Rua dos Ingleses 355, Bela Vista (3285 0246/ tunnel.com.br). Metrô 2, Brigadeiro.

Open 11pm-6am Fri, Sat; 7pm-midnight Sun. Admission R$20.

Out & about CAFÉ Frey Café & Coisinhas This lively café-cum-bar, recently relocated to a larger space with an outdoor terrace, draws in passers-by for espressos during the day, while couples on first dates or groups of friends come by at night. Rua Frei Caneca 703, Consolação (3539 0858/freycafe.com.br). Open 4pmmidnight Tue, Wed; 4pm-1am Thu-Sun. Prices 600ml beer R$6.60; caipirinha R$15.

GYM Commando Fitness The convenient location and the cheap membership fee make this small, no-frills gym a favourite among the gay men who live around Frei Caneca. Rua Augusta 810, Consolação (9442 8697). Open 6am-1am Mon-Thu; 6am-midnight Fri; 10am-6pm Sat; noon-3pm Sun. Admission R$15 daily; R$190 monthly.

SAUNA Splash 720 Splash 720 is a venue solely for the gay crowd, and a very handy option for people leaving the nearby nightclub The Week, but who want to keep the party going.

Splash features a heated swimming pool and about 40 private rooms (singles and doubles). You need to book either a room or a locker in order to get in.

Rua Guaicurus 720, Lapa (4329 0204/ splash720.com.br). Open 24 hours daily Prices Locker rental R$30; single room R$75; double room R$146.

SAUNA Termas Fragata Termas Fragata is one of São Paulo’s most traditional saunas, with a very casual atmosphere and a random mix of beautiful working boys and horny locals.

Rua Francisco Leitão 71, Pinheiros (3085 7061/termasfragata.com.br). Open 2pmmidnight daily. Admission R$40.

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Music & Nightlife Interview: Savages to counteract the constant exposure to Savages’ fast tempos and raucous guitars?

I think you need both in life to feel happy: loud and quiet, night and day, fast and slow. I practice transcendental meditation twice daily. It really helps me to concentrate my thoughts and get rid of unnecessary anxiety.

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How important is a physically energetic show?

Physicality behind music has always been one of our main points of focus from the beginning.

It’s actually the subject of our new video, ‘Strife’. We wanted to focus on a timeless human physicality and expression, a search for understanding through the movement, action and reaction of two characters. Also, we rehearse a lot, which is essential for a band who concentrate on live performance.

Here are the young women Known for intense shows, the British band Savages are a must-see act at Lollapalooza

Savages vocalist Jehnny Beth chats with Thomas Moir about hanging ‘no talking’ signs at gigs and finding a balance between loud and soft Meet Savages: four no-nonsense femmes from London, whose rumbling, locomotive-like 2013 debut, Silence Yourself, makes even the most snot-nosed of punk bands sound clean-as-a-whistle.

Musically, the band are so watertight that at times it feels like if one cog came loose, the whole machine might risk falling apart. Gemma Thompson’s guitar looms large, constantly primed to detonate; Fay Milton’s drums provide a militaristic quality reminiscent of their post-punk forefathers; and Ayse Hassan’s bass is so meaty and elastic you could probably lunch on it. Then casting a shadow over it all is Jehnny Beth’s howling, sneering presence, pacing

furiously at the front of the stage, issuing serpentine retort upon retort to anything and everything she deems wrong about the world.

In a few weeks’ time, Beth and her band mates will land in São Paulo – probably all dressed in black – to wreak havoc upon Lollapalooza. Chatting with Beth from her hotel room in Osaka,

Comparisons are often drawn between Savages and Public Image Ltd. and Siouxsie and the Banshees. Are you flattered by these comparisons?

They are all very good bands but I really don’t see the point of comparing a new band to an old band. What about connecting music to what we are living now? What

What music do you typically listen to while on tour?

I’m listening to the Blade Runner soundtrack, Susumu Yokota, HTRK and Lou Reed at the moment.

In the past you’ve hung signs at concert venues asking that concert-goers don’t use their phones or talk during shows.

Does this go for festivals, too?

After we started putting the signs up, the general atmosphere of the gigs improved enormously.

People felt more relaxed with the idea of engaging with the music, they started to dance and jump around. We can’t post the signs at festivals of course, but it’s okay. It’s very different from playing inside a venue where we make our own rules. Festivals are festival rules, but it’s okay, we don’t mind.

Do you tend to listen to quieter music outside of the band

Savages play the Lollapalooza festival on 6 April.

‘I don’t see the point of comparing a new band to an old band. What about the present? Can you feel anything at all?’

Japan – where the band is on tour – we find the front-woman surefooted, articulate and, just as she is in her lyrics, highly economical with her words.

For those who haven’t listened to Silence Yourself, how would you describe Savages’ sound?

Music for the foreground, radical, straight to the point and exciting.

Savages’ image is quite intense. Do you think about curating an over-arching style consistent with your music, or does it come naturally?

We think about it a lot and it comes naturally; both are true. We never wanted to rush into making videos at the start unless we felt strongly about an idea and had time to develop it with the directors.

We would never like to release something we didn’t feel strongly about, be it music or videos.

about the present? Can you feel anything at all?

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Preview Caetano Veloso

Fernando Young/press image

The Bahian musician, who has never been scared to say what he thinks but has been relatively discreet in recent times, was one of the protagonists in the so-called ‘biography controversies’ in which he, his ex-wife Paula Lavigne, and artists of the calibre of Gilberto Gil, Chico Buarque and Roberto Carlos defended their right to prior authorisation of biographies and other copyright ownership issues.

But with the dust settled on the legal battle, Mr. Veloso returns to São Paulo with the show from his last album, accompanied by his Banda Cê for the third time – a rock trio consisting of musicians Pedro Sá (electric guitar), Ricardo Dias Gomes (bass) and Marcelo Callado (drums), all of whom are at least 30 years younger than their frontman.

Abraçaço, the third record from this recent rock phase, is thoroughly steeped in melancholy: ‘Estou Triste’ is one of the most beautiful and sombre examples from the 72 year-old artist’s vast

Happy together The Grammy-winning musician with his backing band

The beloved musician, embroiled in controversy, in recent months remains as vital as ever, says Fabio Rigobelo

When he began his tour at the end of 2012 for the album Abraçaço, Caetano Veloso probably didn’t expect the following months to be as turbulent as they were. But at least he wasn’t alone.

songbook, which today spans his almost five-decade-long career.

It’s not hard for him to tease out gems from such an extensive back catalogue. Older songs such as ‘De Noite na Cama’, ‘Eclipse Oculto’, ‘Reconvexo’ and ‘Triste Bahia’, the latter from his classic 1972 Transa album, sit alongside brilliant recent tracks. But if he seems far from the exuberant Tropicalista who led the revolution in Brazilian music at the end of the 1960s, then his voice and his relationship with the audience continue to be compelling and sincere – and there’s always the chance he’ll drop in a comment on current affairs, such as the recent protests in Brazil, the World Cup, or even about São Paulo. Like him or not: it’s always worth paying attention to Caetano Veloso.

Caetano Veloso plays at HSBC Brasil, Rua Bragança Paulista 1281, Santo Amaro (5646 2120/ hsbcbrasil.com.br) at 10pm on 4 and 5 April. Tickets R$50-$240.

Album review

You may be familiar with Portishead’s rhythm dream-team of Jim Barr and Clive Deamer. You may not know, though, that since 2000 they have been members of a jazz band called Get The Blessing.

For their fourth album, Lope and Antilope, the group (with trumpeter Pete Judge and saxophonist Jake McMurchie) have worked with Portishead guitarist Adrian Utley and Bat For Lashes guitarist Tim Allen. But despite the big name credits, all egos are left at the door as

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Lope and Antelope (Naim Audio)

these highly skilled musicians come together in a jazz setting to display their remarkable musicianship.

Get The Blessing formed through a shared fascination with Ornette Coleman’s improvisatory prowess, and although they have experimented with improv in earlier albums, this is their first fully improvised record. Not that you’d guess, as it sounds deceptively thought out – this is considered and careful improv, testament to the long time the musicians have been playing together, which results in an experimental yet measured sound.

This is trip hop-informed contemporary jazz-rock at its very best. Get The Blessing’s distinctive, dubby sound infiltrates this album, but ‘Lope and Antilope’ feels more relaxed than their previous work. Clever use of guitar pedals and electronic effects create an absorbing ambient space, and the improvised tracks are powerful but skilfully controlled. The musicians may have big credits to their names, but they’re at the height of their powers on this superb album of jazz inflections. Roseanne Hanley

Tinariwen

Emmaar (Anti-)

In August 2012, Abdallah Ag Lamida was arrested by Ansar Dine, a militant group of Malian Islamists, for making ‘Satan’s music’ as a member of the Tuareg rock group Tinariwen.

Unsurprisingly, when he was released, the group got the hell out of Dodge – they fled Mali and headed to Joshua Tree in the Californian part of the Mojave Desert, to record their sixth album.

It makes sense that Emmaar, the band’s sixth studio record,

was created in the spiritual home of American psychedelia. This is transportative music, an electric blues trip through Tinariwen’s sand-blasted world of long-form Tamashek [nomadic Saharan] jams. The songs all drift into one another, but that’s their greatest appeal: they’re all variations on a theme, a single tone that rises and falls. Moments of calm – ‘Sendad Eghlalan’, for instance – leave you drifting off into the ether before everything ramps back up on wig-outs such as ‘Imdiwan in ahi Tifhamam’.

Though a pair of guest appearances by fiddle player Fats Kaplin and superstar Red Hot Chilli Peppers guitarist Josh Klinghoffer break the spell a little, Emmaar is never less than hypnotic and entrancing. Tinariwen have crafted a beautiful paean to the desert, an audio homage to dry heat – even if the desert this time was 7,000 miles away from their African home. Just one sticking point, then: the spoken word intro that begins the album.

Don’t whisper at me, bro – that’s creepy. Eddy Frankel

Music & Nightlife

Get The Blessing

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Nightclubs Criminal intent Call The Cops How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s clubs. A marks our favourites spots.

Our listings are chosen entirely at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues. Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

Music & Nightlife

Bar Secreto More of a club than a bar, this candle-lit room is decked out with a piano, leather couches, chandeliers, and a soundtrack that’s mainly rock, hip hop and electronic. The exclusive club (you can’t call – contact is only via email) caters to fashionistas and hipsters. Rua Álvaro Anes 97, Pinheiros (barsecreto.com.br). Open 11pm-6am Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$13; caipirinha R$20; minimum spend R$20$100.

Caos In a compact little space on Baixo Augusta, Caos crams in more of everything than most bars. More funloving customers, bumping elbows at the bar or packed tight on the dance floor.

More eclectic DJ sets. And more – well, tat, with walls and shelves brimming with film posters, telephones and door knobs – all for sale during the day, too.

Rua Augusta 584, Consolação (2365 1260/caos584.com.br). Open 8pm-late Mon-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$9; caipirinha R$16.50; minimum spend R$30 (Thu-Sat).

Hot Hot Big with the fashion crowd and rich kids, Hot Hot has a plush upstairs bar, while downstairs a dark dancefloor has one of the best soundsystems in the city, pumping out electronic beats from Brazilian and international DJs. Rua Santo Antônio 570, Bela Vista (2985 8685/hothotsite.com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú. Open midnight-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$30-$80.

Lions This downtown club in a 1950s building has a slightly exclusive air, with high ceilings and decor inspired by 19th-century gentlemen’s clubs, right down to the stuffed animal heads on the walls. But the real star of the show is the terrace, shared by smokers and non-smokers alike, from which you can gaze over at the Catedral da Sé. Avenida Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 277, Centro (3104 7157/lionsnightclub.com.br).

Open midnight-late Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$12; cocktails from R$31; cover R$40-$130.

Love Story Love Story isn’t about the music – it’s about a decadent party that doesn’t get going until well after 2.30am, when party animals, off– duty hookers, tourists, clubbers and whoever else is still awake in the edgy downtown party zone lets loose until the early hours. A mix of house and dance music classics keeps the energy levels high until long after sunrise. Rua Araújo 232, República (3231 3101/ danceterialovestory.tur.br). Metrô 3, República. Open midnight-late MonSat. Prices cover R$60.

Ananda Deckij/PRESS IMAGE

Eclectic

With a regular lineup of DJs dressed like TV show detectives providing a solid indie rock soundtrack, Call The Cops invites all the fun-filled chaos of an unruly house party to Apartamento BYOB – a club comprised of four connected flats – every 45 days. The next edition is set to annoy the neighbours on 21 March.

Rua Oscar Freire 2298, Jardim Paulista (3062 8200/ Facebook: CTCOPS). R$30 with your name on the guestlist in advance; R$40 without.

Electronica Casa 92 Dance under the stars in the summer heat at this 1950s houseturned-club, or sit by a real log fire when the nights turn cold. The action is out the back, where media types and rich kids flit up and down the steps between two tree-covered courtyards, each with its own bar and dancefloor.

DJs spin everything from electro rock and ’80s disco to house and indie rock.

Rua Cristóvão Gonçalves 92, Pinheiros (3032 0371/casa92.blogspot.com). Open 10.30pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices pint of beer R$14; caipirinha R$18; cover R$50.

Clash Club The young, pretty crowd at this swish, ultra–modern club gets seriously animated to the latest electronic music. Rua Barra Funda 969, Barra Funda (3661 1500/clashclub. com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda. Open midnight-late Tues, Fri, Sat. Prices can of beer R$8; cover R$50-$60.

D.Edge D.Edge is seriously dedicated to underground electronic music, with a wall that lights up with a giant equaliser, pulsing in time to the relentless beats, and a beautiful terrace.

The crowd of wild young things gets there late and stays until the early hours. Alameda Olga 170, Barra Funda (3665 9500/d-edge.com.br). Metrô 3, Barra Funda Open midnight-7am Mon, Wed-Sat. Prices small bottle beer R$10; caipirinha R$15; cover R$20-$80.

Disco This club is a favourite with the city’s young, beautiful and rich, although it’s quite small and often beyond crowded.

The highlight of the space – a creation of the architect Isay Weinfeld – is the glittering mirrored corridor that takes you from the door to the floor. Rua Professor Atílio Innocenti 160, Itaim Bibi (3078 0404/clubdisco.com.br). Open 11pm-late Wed, Fri, Sat. Prices cover R$50-$100.

Indie & rock Funhouse Funhouse is a unique mix of house party, bar and mini-club.

Behind the curtain, you’ll find a little black box of a dancefloor where they might be blaring electro dance music, pop anthems, hard rock, or funk carioca.

Rua Bela Cintra 567, Consolação (3854 6522/funhouse.com.br). Open 10pm-late Thu-Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$6; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$50.

Inferno Club It’s not just the music, but the leopard-print walls and abundance of neon signs, that scream rock’n’roll at Inferno. Live gigs and DJs get rockers of all ages going on the large dancefloor. Rua Augusta 501, Consolação (3120 4140/infernoclub. com.br). Open 11pm-6am; Thu-Sun. Prices small bottle of beer R$8; caipirinha R$15; cover R$10-$30.

MPB & Latin Serralheria Espaço Cultural Popular with an artsy, alternative crowd, this no-frills venue in a small warehouse in Lapa has a laid-back vibe

and super-friendly owners. Blending bar and exhibition space, you’ll find everything from photography to video art and sculpture on display in the covered outdoor bar area, while eclectic live music sets are hosted in the cosier indoor space. Rua Guaicurus 857, Lapa (6794 0124/escapeserralheria. org). Open 9pm-2am Fri; 9.30pm-2am Sat. Prices small bottle of beer R$4; cover R$10.

Tapas Another nonchalantly cool hangout on the Augusta strip, Tapas is a two-storey bar with DJs and live bands packing out the dark dancefloor upstairs with a healthy mix of ages and musical styles, from dub and R&B to hip hop and jazz. Rua Augusta 246, Consolação (tapasclub.com.br). Metrô 2, Consolação.

Open 9pm-5am Tue-Sat; 8pm-2am Sun. Prices chope R$5.80; caipirinha R$11; cover R$5-R$15.

Music venues Classical Sala São Paulo One of the most celebrated concert halls in Latin America, Sala São Paulo was constructed in a Louis XVI-style 1938 train station and redesigned as a cultural centre and concert hall. Praça Júlio Prestes 16, Luz (3367 9500/salasaopaulo.art.br).

Open box office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri or before concert; 10am-4.30pm Sat on performance days; 2hrs before concert Sun. Prices R$20-$110.

Electronic Flex Club Located in Barra Funda, the nightclub has a gay and lesbian crowd most nights, with go-go dancers and electronic beats to rock the party til dawn. Its wide space includes a dancefloor and an open-air terrace with pool tables. Capacity: 2,000. Avenida Marquês de São Vicente 1767, Barra Funda (3612 4402/flexclub.com.br).

Open midnight-late Prices vary.

MPB Bar do Cidão This spot has live samba and chorinho every night.

Rua Deputado Lacerda Franco 293, Pinheiros (3813 3111/cidaobar.com.br).

Open 7pm-late Mon-Sat. Prices 600ml beer R$5.50-$6.50; caipirinha R$11; cover R$8.

Grazie a Dio! This medium-sized, unpretentious, and charming place is one of the best live venues in São Paulo to hear great musicians play samba, samba rock and MPB. Get close, dance, and smell the sweat – or sit out back and have dinner. There’s live music Tuesday-Sunday nights, but Friday nights with the excellent samba rock combo Clube de Balanço, are recommended. Rua Girassol 67, Vila Madalena (3031 6568/grazieadio. com.br). Open 8pm-late Tue-Sun; shows 10pm Tue, Wed; 11pm Thu-Sun. Prices cover R$15-$25; small bottle beer R$4.40; caipirinha R$10.40.

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Performance Listings

The voice Elis Regina

How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the city’s venues.

Our listings are chosen at the editors’ discretion, and Time Out doesn’t accept compensation of any kind for publishing details of events or venues.

Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s best to check before heading out.

CCBB (Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil) Built in 1901 and restored in 1927, this imposing former bank in the heart of the old city centre is now a cultural centre, with a café, cinema, theatre, and a number of spaces that host art exhibitions and educational programmes. Rua Álvares Penteado 112, Centro (3113 3651/ culturabancodobrasil. com.br). Metrô 1, Sé and São Bento.

Capacity 126. Box Office 9am-9pm Mon; 9am-9pm Wed-Sun. CEU Spread throughout the city, the Unified Educational Centres (Centro Educacional Unificado) offer the most varied events relating to culture and sports. Dance, theatre, yoga, acrobatic gymnastics, ballroom dancing, walking, soccer, judo and capoeira are just some examples of what’s on offer. CEU Rosa da China Rua Clara Petrella (no number), Vila Prudente (2701 2332). CEU Alto Alegre Avenida Bento Guelfi 1802, Jardim Laranjeira (2075 1000). CEU Sapopemba Rua Manoel Quirino de Matos (no number), Sapopemba (2075 9110).

Complexo Ohtake Cultural Formerly known as Teatro Geo, the Complexo Ohtake Cultural, located inside the Instituto Tomie Ohtake building, opened its doors to the public in 2012, with a 3,000-square-metre space and seating for up to 627 people. This is the first major theatre in Pinheiros, hosting ambitious national as well as international performances. Rua Coropés 88, Pinheiros (3728 4930). Metrô 4 Faria Lima. Capacity 627 Box Office Noon-8pm Daily Espaço Cênico Ademar Guerra Named after a well-known theatre director, this venue is inside the Centro Cultural São Paulo. Rua Vergueiro 1000, Paraíso (3397 4002/centrocultural.sp.gov. br). Metrô 2, Vergueiro. Capacity 120.

Box office 7am-9pm Mon-Sat or 2hrs prior to the show.

Espaço Parlapatões The acting troupe that calls this theatre home started out in 1991 with street theatre performances. Since then, the group has continued to produce theatre with circus influences and an emphasis on audience

Felipe Panfili/AgNews/PRESS IMAGE

Venues

On the heels of its wildly popular four-month run in Rio, the biographical musical, Elis: A Musical, arrives in São Paulo to continue telling the story of one of Brazil’s most beloved singers, Elis Regina. Written by one of her former producers Nelson Motta – who also penned the award-winning and equally popular stage hit Tim Maia: Vale Tudo, O Musical about another of his legendary MPB contemporaries, Tim Maia – the show traces out Regina’s life and times to the tune of more than 50 songs and medleys.

Debuting on the same night as Elis, Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice’s classic rock ’n’ roll opera Jesus Cristo Superstar is revived in São Paulo almost 41 years to the day after its Brazilian premiere. The Brazilian rendition of this timeless musical, which is loosely based on Jesus Christ’s final week of life, is performed in Portuguese. Elis: A Musical is at Teatro Alfa from 14 March to 13 July. Tickets R$60-$180. Jesus Cristo Superstar is at Complexo Ohtake Cultural from 14 March to 8 June. Tickets R$50-$230.

See listings.

involvement, whether for a megaproduction in a space like Anhembi Parque or for a couple of performers with a low-key setup in its own, more intimate space. Praça Franklin Roosevelt 158, República (3258 4449/parlapatoes. com.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú.

Capacity 90. Box office 4-9pm TueThu; 4pm-midnight Fri, Sat; 4-9pm Sun. Galeria Olido This community hub has a cinema, dance school, theatre, library and free internet services, plus a place devoted to the memory of Brazil’s rich circus and clown history. The glassedin interior faces the street and is used every day for events ranging from free rock shows to dance performances and author readings. Avenida São João 473,

Centro (3331 8399/galeriaolido.sp.gov. br). Metrô 3, República. Capacity 665.

Box office 30 mins prior to the show.

SESC São Paulo has 16 SESCs – nonprofit venues that function as athletic, performance and exhibition centres.

World-class music, dance and theatre are on offer, and the ticket prices are always reasonable (R$5-$32), and often free. To find out what’s going on at all SESCs and to buy tickets online visit sescsp. org.br. SESC Belenzinho Rua Padre Adelino 1000 (2076 9700). Closed Mon. SESC Carmo Rua do Carmo 147 (3111 7000). Closed Sat, Sun. SESC Consolação Rua Doutor Vila Nova 245 (3234 3000). Closed Sun. SESC Ipiranga Rua Bom Pastor 822 (3340

2000). Closed Mon. SESC Pinheiros Rua Paes Leme 195 (3095 9400). Closed Mon. SESC Pompéia Rua Clélia 93 (3871 7700). Closed Mon. SESC Santana Avenida Luiz Dumont Villares 579 (2971 8700). Closed Mon. SESC Vila Mariana Rua Pelotas 141 (5080 3000). Closed Mon. Teatro Ágora A modern and dynamic space with a homely atmosphere, this theatre was a joint venture by Brazilian architect Sylvia Moreira (responsible for Galeria Olido) and award-winning actor Celso Frateschi, from Augusto Boal’s revolutionary Teatro de Arena. The theatre has two separate stages. Rua Rui Barbosa 672, Bela Vista (3284 0290/agorateatro.com.br). Metrô 1, Paraíso. Capacity 88. Box office 2.30-8pm daily.

Teatro Alfa Brazil does Broadway is one way to describe this theatre, used to stage dance, opera, pop, plays and musicals.

Rua Bento Branco de Andrade Filho 722, Santo Amaro (5693 4000/teatroalfa.com. br) Capacity 1,305. Box office 11am7pm Mon-Sat; 11am-5pm Sun. Teatro Bradesco Located inside the Bourbon Shopping Centre, this is one of Brazil’s biggest cultural spaces, at 7,000 square metres. Its Italian stage floor has built-in shock-absorbing capacity, to protect the feet of the dancers. Teatro Bradesco, Bourbon Shopping, Rua Turiassú 2100, 3rd floor, Perdizes (4003 1212/teatrobradesco.com.br). Capacity 1,438. Box office noon-8pm Mon-Thu; noon-10pm Fri, Sat; noon-8pm Sun. Teatro Sérgio Cardoso Named after a legendary Brazilian actor, this theatre has a main stage for large-scale dance, theatre and classical music performances, plus a smaller space.

Rua Rui Barbosa 153, Bela Vista (3288 0136/apaacultural.org.br). Metrô 1, Paraíso. Capacity 835. Box office from 3pm, Wed-Sun. Theatro Municipal Built in 1911 and a jewel in the city’s architectural crown, the Theatro Municipal opened its doors again in June 2011 after three years of extensive renovations. With a revitalised facade, a modern stage, brilliant stained glass and restored paintings, the theatre hosts opera, dance and symphony performances from home and abroad. Praça Ramos de Azevedo, Centro (3397 0300/ teatromunicipal.sp.gov.br). Metrô 3, Anhangabaú Capacity 1,523.

Box office 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am5pm Sat, Sun. Theatro São Pedro São Paulo’s second oldest theatre was inaugurated in 1917, becoming the cultural focal point in Barra Funda and the surrounding districts. The beautiful neoclassical building first served as a theatre, then as a cinema, and is currently a venue for classical music.

Rua Barra Funda 171, Santa Cecília (3667 0499/ theatrosaopedro.org.br).

Capacity 636. Box Office 10am1pm, 2-6pm Tue-Sun or until the begining of the show.

March 2014 timeout.com/sao-paulo 53 780 PERFORMANCE_Bia_20mar.indd 53

20/03/14 15:04

Football & World Cup 2014 Up to the nines

Despite being a five-time championship-winning manager, Brazilian national team coach Luiz Felipe Scolari has always made it clear that he couldn’t do without a traditional number 9 on his side.

Of course, after having coached a number 9 like Ronaldo in the 2002 World Cup, you’d be hard-pressed to convince him otherwise.

Felipão’s (‘Big Phil’) heroic striker carried the team to their fifth – and last – world title that year, but he arrived at the host countries of South Korea and Japan under fire.

He was labelled the villain following a defeat at the hands of the host team in the 1998 World Cup final in France – a match which saw ‘the Phenomenon’ completely lost on the pitch after suffering convulsions a few hours before the game – and his round of knee injuries and two-year absence from the team only added to the concerns over whether Ronaldo would be able to match his previous form. Nonetheless, Scolari called up the oft-criticised striker, and his performance on the pitch left no room for doubt: he scored eight times in the 2002 World Cup – twice in the final against Germany – and went on to become the World Cup’s most prolific all-time scorer in 2006.

Back at the helm of the national side after a decade away, Felipão

Football listings How to use the listings This section consists of our pick of the matches of São Paulo’s major teams this month.

Times, prices and other details can change at short notice, so it’s always best to check before heading out to a match.

Paulo Whitaker/REUTERS

As Fred’s injury woes linger, Big Phil scrambles to find a reliable number 9 in time for the World Cup, says Cecília Gianesi

A void to Phil Scolari believes his injury-riddled number 9, Fred, is an integral part of the team’s title hopes

has once again found exactly what he treasures in his number 9 – this time, in the Fluminense striker Fred.

Firmly entrenched as a first-team regular, Fred is brilliant at placing himself in the area and plays a fundamental tactical role in Felipão’s Brazilian attack.

A look at his recent history proves that he makes a difference. In 2009, he was fundamental to Rio’s Fluminense, which found itself perilously close to relegation to the second division of the Campeonato Brasileiro prior to his arrival, but subsequently managed to keep itself afloat. And in Brazil’s victorious Confederations Cup campaign, considered a test for the World Cup, Fred proved equally effective as the team’s main striker.

But similar to his phenomenal predecessor, the player’s constant injuries have become a concern. He was unfit to play for Fluminense in the final stage of the 2013 Brasileirão, which was one of the main causes of the team’s temporary relegation (it was later overturned by a Supreme Court decision). Still sidelined due to a thigh injury, Fred is now causing similar worries for Felipão and, as a result, has exposed Brazil’s lack of a substitute.

Jô, his subsitute in the Confederations Cup, has been convincing at times, but if Fred is ruled out, there aren’t many other options. Diego Costa has the same characteristics that Scolari covets, but he has chosen to play for the

Spanish team. Leandro Damião and Pato have also shown promise, but have yet to earn a spot on the team.

The situation is dire enough that players like Flamengo’s Hernane and Palmeiras’s Alan Kardec have arisen as possible solutions, despite never having been called up by Felipão.

The search for a sub – or even for the actual wearer of the number 9 shirt should Fred not heal in time – is but one of the worries for a manager who already bears the immense pressure of meeting the all-or-nothing demands for a sixth championship win at home. But if history repeats itself, Felipão’s ideal striker will emerge from injury to save the day once again, and put the whole of Brazil on cloud nine.

Tickets can be purchased online at ingressofacil.com.br and futebolcard.com.br.

the Paulistão playoffs when they meet Ituano in their last home game of the qualifiers. 10pm, Morumbi.

23 March Paulista: Corinthians vs. Atlético de Sorocaba Without Pato, Douglas and Paulo André, this will be Corinthians’ last chance to recover from a disastrous start and escape the embarrassment of not going through to the decisive phase of this state tournament. 4pm, Pacaembu.

23 March Paulista: Santos vs.

Palmeiras This game might not mean anything in terms of the qualification of the two teams for the Paulistão playoffs, but this final round qualifier is set to be a heated derby between two teams

that have performed extremely well in the first part of the tournament and are looking to make an early-season statement. 4pm, Vila Belmiro.

16 March Paulista: Palmeiras vs.

Ponte Preta The Macaca (female monkey), as the Campinas team is commonly known, have earned points against Corinthians and São Paulo and now face Palmeiras, which has been one of the best teams in the Paulistão’s early rounds. 4pm, Pacaembu.

19 March Paulista: São Paulo vs.

Ituano The newly-acquired Pato and the ‘tricolor’ look to please the São Paulo supporters and build momentum for

Estádios de Futebol Pacaembu Praça Charles Miller, Pacaembu (3664 4650). Metrô 2, Clinicas. Tickets R$30-$120.

Morumbi Praça Roberto Gomes Pedrosa 1 (3749 8000). Tickets R$30-$120. No credit cards.

Vila Belmiro Rua Princesa Isabel, no number, Santos (13 3257 4000).

Tickets R$20-$60.

54 timeout.com/sao-paulo March 2014 790 FOOTBALL_Bia_20mar.indd 54

20/03/14 15:07

SP Essentials

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Map 56 Resources 58

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Resources EMERGENCIES

TELEPHONES

Fire and medical emergencies 193 Military Police 190 DEATUR (Specialised tourist police) Rua da Consolação 247, Centro (3151 4167/3259 2202.

DiaLling & codes

For emergency medical needs, head to one of the public hospitals such as the immense Hospital das Clínicas (Avenida Doutor Enéas de Carvalho Aguiar 255, Pinheiros, 2661 0000, hcnet. usp.br), though be prepared to wait. Of the private hospitals, Hospital Nove de Julho (Rua Peixoto Gomide 625, Bela Vista, 3147 9999, hospital9dejulho.com.br) is close to Avenida Paulista and accepts walk-ins. For a complete list of hospitals in São Paulo, visit saude.sp.gov.br.

LEGAL ASSISTANCE Large general practices with Englishspeaking lawyers include Suchodolski Advogados Associados (24th Floor, Rua Augusta 1819, 3372 1300, suchodolski.com.br) and Ary Oswaldo Mattos Filho (Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de Lima 447, 3147 7600, mattosfilho.com.br).

SP Essentials

MONEY The Brazilian currency is the real (plural reais). Banks and ATMs are easy to find throughout the city, though not all will accept foreign ATM cards – travellers tend to have the most success with CitiBank, HSBC and Banco do Brasil.

Banks open from 10am-4pm Mon-Fri. Some ATMs can be accessed after 4pm, though for security reasons, most will only dispense R$300 after 10pm.

Lost & stolen cards

American Express 0800 721 1188 Diners Club 4001 4444/0800 728 4444 Mastercard 0800 891 3294 Visa 0800 891 3680

SAFETY & SECURITY It’s customary for Brazilians to carry identification, often required to access office buildings. As in any large metropolis, crime is a serious issue in São Paulo. Be careful with personal belongings, especially at night and in the city centre. Avoid wearing valuable- looking jewellery, and take the measure of your surroundings before pulling out an expensive camera, laptop or mobile phone. Most places in São Paulo are safe to walk in during the day, but at night it’s best to avoid dark streets where there are few people. High-risk areas for crime and pick-pocketing include Praça da Sé, Praça da República, and around Estação da Luz. Do not argue with muggers – just hand over your possessions calmly., and try not to look at them too directly. Chances are they will be carrying a weapon.

INST

@timeoutsp

Brazil’s international country code is 55. All cities have a two-digit city code followed by an eight-digit telephone number. Mobiles in São Paulo have nine digits (always commencing with a 9), except those operated by Nextel. The city code for São Paulo is 11, though you don’t need to include 11 when making a local call from within São Paulo.

Mobile phones

European phones and US GSM phones usually work, though you may need to call the mobile operator first to remove international restrictions. Some Brazilian operators reportedly permit foreigners to register a pre-paid local SIM card using a passport number, but in practice, most insist on a valid CPF (Brazilian social security number).

Tobias Hardardt (@vistoassim)

HEALTH

instant São Paulo

TOURIST INFORMATION São Paulo’s official English-language tourism site, run by SPTuris, is cityofsaopaulo.com. There are several tourist information offices. The most centrally located ones are at Avenida São João 473 and Avenida Paulista 1853.

TRANSPORT PUBLIC TRANSPORT

São Paulo’s public transport system is extensive. The metrô is clean and safe, though it doesn’t serve many neighbourhoods. But where the metrô doesn’t go, a bus usually does. The transport authority, SPTrans (sptrans. com.br), has a journey planner that uses Google Maps.

Fares & tickets If you plan to make a few journeys on public transport, it’s well worth getting a Bilhete Único (free at metrô stations, but with a R$20 initial minimum credit).

The card allows for free or low-cost transfers between buses, the metrô and CPTM trains. One bus ride is R$3, or for R$4.65 you can take one metrô/CPTM ride and up to three bus rides in a period of three hours.

City buses São Paulo is served by a large network of buses regulated by SPTrans. A 24-hour hotline (dial 156) provides information on buses routes, or use Google Maps to plot your journey. You can pay on board with cash (R$3), or use a Bilhete Único.

Metrô There are five metrô lines, each identified by a colour and a number. Maps are few and far between at metrô stations, so ask for one when you buy a ticket.

A ride to any destination costs R$3 and tickets can be bought at booths labelled bilheteria. With some exceptions, the metrô operates from 4.30am to midnight (0800 7707722, metro.sp.gov.br).

With the city in the midst of an uncharacteristically dry summer, storms like the one above – photographed by reader Tobias Hardardt (@vistoassim) from atop Itaim’s Meliã Jardim Europa hotel – were a welcome sight for paulistanos in February. Submit your own best Instagram shots of São Paulo and tag them #timeoutsp for a chance to see them featured on this page.

CPTM The Companhia Paulista de Trens Metropolitanos (0800 055 0121, cptm. sp.gov.br) is essentially an extension of the metrô that serves farther-flung suburban destinations, as well as parts of the city that the metrô does not reach.

Taxis Taxis can be hailed on the street, though the safest way is to call for one, find one at a ponto de táxi (taxi rank), or download one of the handy new smartphone apps such as Easy Taxi App, or SaferTaxi. Taxis use electronic meters, and fares start at R$4.10. Most taxis don’t accept cards, so make sure to have cash to hand.

Central Táxi 3035 0404 Delta Rádio Táxi 5072 4499

DRIVING

Driving in São Paulo is not for the faint of heart – drivers can be assertive and traffic and parking can be a nightmare, especially during peak hours. Ethanol is just as common in Brazil as traditional fuels, so make sure you know which fuel your car runs on. (Most new cars run with both ethanol and petrol.) Car rental companies will happily hand you a set of keys as long as you have a driver’s licence, credit card, and a passport corresponding to the country in which your licence was issued.

Avis 3259 6868/avis.com

Budget 3587 7165/budget.com Hertz 3258 9384/hertz.com Localiza 5533 3535/localiza.com Movida 3075 8686/movida.com.br

CYCLING

There are still relatively few ciclovias (bicycle paths) in São Paulo, but there are some located in Parque do Ibirapuera, Cidade Universitária and along the Rio Pinheiros. There are also ciclofaixas (closedoff roads) on Sundays and holidays from 7am-4pm (ciclofaixa.com.br).

WALKING

Though São Paulo is a car-oriented city, it is possible to explore many areas on foot. The best neighbourhoods for walking in are the historic Centro (which is less safe at night), Vila Madalena and Jardins. When crossing, watch out for speeding traffic – cars rarely slow for pedestrians.

MOBILITY ISSUES

São Paulo is not the most accommodating city for visitors with disabilities. Private tour agency Go in São Paulo (3289 3814, goinsaopaulo.com.br) provides tourist services and assistance for people with limited mobility, while the non-profit agency Instituto Mara Gabrilli (img. org.br) also provides information for the disabled on accessibility in public places.

58 timeout.com/sao-paulo March 2014 850 RESOURCES_Bia_20mar.indd 58

20/03/14 15:21

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Rua Treze de Maio . 668 . Bela Vista . São Paulo . 55. 11. 3288.7045 . www.marcosbassi.com.br

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