Time Out Tokyo by Time Out Tokyo Inc

SPRING 2011 ???????????????

INSIDE!

Getting around Tokyo: all you need to know

THINGS TO DO THIS SPRING

★ Grab a table on the waterfront ★ Meet the naked men of Kichijoji ★ Get tipsy on a mountain top ★ Go hunting for clowns...

FREE

AN ALTERNATIVE GUIDE TO THE JAPANESE CAPITAL Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 27

Spring 2011

Contents

Time Out Tokyo 5-5-9-101 Hiroo Shibuya-ku Tokyo 150-0012 Japan Tel 03 5792 5721 Fax 03 5792 5793 www.timeout.jp

Golden Week flea market. p6

Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani fushitani@timeout.jp Editorial Director Jon Wilks jonwilks@timeout.jp Assistant Editor James Hadfield james@timeout.jp Digital Editor Akiko Toya toya@timeout.jp Designer David Donaghy Sub Editors Ai Kato, Rachel Morris Contributors Takeshi Tojo, Atsushi Tonosaki Photography James Hadfield, Takeshi Tojo, Jon Wilks Sales Manager Ryuta Sakuko sakuko@timeout.jp

Hibiya Open-Air Concert Hall. p12 Todoroki Valley. p5

Inside this issue… 2 Welcome to Tokyo 4 50 things to do this spring 16 Central Tokyo map 19 Getting around 22 Emergencies & resources 24 Tokyo subway route map

A word from the Editor While we’ve been online now for the best part of two years (find us at www.timeout.jp), this magazine marks our first foray into the non-digital world – a world that, as far as Japan is concerned, is not nearly as stable as it was when we began putting plans in place months ago. We’ll be producing these magazines on a quarterly basis through 2011, and this time bring you the best the capital has to offer in the spring months; delighted to report that life goes on in Tokyo, regardless of what you may have read elsewhere.

The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out Group Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK. +44 (0) 20 7813 3000. www. timeout.com Time Out Group Chairman and Founder Tony Elliott CEO David King Guides Managing Director Peter Fiennes Digital Managing Director David Pepper International Managing Director Cathy Runciman Group Financial Director Paul Rakkar International Editor Marcus Webb International Art Director Anthony Huggins

Jon Wilks Editorial Director Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 1

Welcome to Tokyo … a brave new world indeed T

his is certainly an interesting time to visit Tokyo. One of the world’s great capitals, until mid-March, 2011, it throbbed to its own neon pulse, 24 hours a day, 365 days per year (with a few days off for New Year celebrations). And then the earthquake struck, followed moments later by the devastating tsunami that left the North East of the country crushed and in mourning. Tokyo itself sustained very minor injuries, but subsequent weeks saw rolling blackouts and a shortage of food on supermarket shelves. Western tabloids reported on a ghost town that bore very little resemblance to reality, although – for a few short weeks – the foreign population certainly thinned significantly. It was an unusual time indeed. 2 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

What we’re left with, and what you’ll see during your visit here, is not so much a city brought to its knees as a capital doggedly getting on with what needs to be done. Charity events abound (click over to www.timeout.jp if you want to get involved) and people across the city are trying to help the less fortunate as best they can. A trip to Shibuya – once the neon centre of Japan’s youth culture – is still well worth including on any itinerary, but it feels like a place somewhat humbled. Yet while the big screens and fluorescent signs are turned off, the human energy is still undimmed, and on a clear

night you can make out the stars – probably for the first time in centuries. Elsewhere, the usually bustling streets of Asakusa are far less oppressive, and the tourist hub of Sensoji Temple is all but deserted come twilight. If there was ever a time to grab those picture postcard snaps, this is it. At the time of writing, fears of radiation affecting seafood were being readily dismissed by experts at home and abroad – good news indeed for the capital’s restaurants, which famously (and somewhat controversially) notched up a total of 320 stars in the 2011 Michelin Guide, more

Tokyo feels like a capital somewhat humbled

Welcome to Tokyo

The facts of the matter... Population

35,676,000 (core city 8,802,000)

Area

6,993sq km

Climate

Spring and autumn are mild, winters are cold, and summers are hot and humid. The rainy season begins in June

Ethnic mix

248,363 foreigners were living in Tokyo during the last census – just 2 per cent of the total population

Major sights

Tokyo Tower, Shibuya’s Hachiko Crossing, Takeshita Dori in Harajuku, Sensoji Temple in Asakusa, Tsukiji fish market, the futuristic sights of Odaiba

Number of annual visitors to Mt Takao 2.6 million

Tons of fish and seafood usually handled at Tsukiji fish market each day 2,000

Number of train lines 121

Number of days Mt Fuji is visible per year 79

Immortalised in

Tokyo Story; Godzilla, King of the Monsters; Tanizaki’s Diary of a Mad Old Man; Akira; Haruki Murakami’s novels; The Ring; Lost in Translation

One thing Tokyo can be reasonably proud of… Insiders’ tips

than Paris itself. But, then, there are a lot of restaurants to choose from – over 80,000 at the last count. Tokyo undoubtedly remains a foody’s paradise. As a leading entertainment and lifestyle publication, Time Out Tokyo recognises the unusual situation that the Tokyo traveller currently faces, and so we’ve put together this quick guide to spring in the postquake capital. In the coming pages, you’ll find 50 great ideas for making the most of your time here, as well as a handy guide to help you get around and stay safe. Whether you’re limbering up at a yoga event, or seeking out clowns in an earthy Koenji street festival, you’ll see the world’s biggest metropolis is a place that won’t lie down easily. Tokyo lives on.

Shimokitazawa, Koenji and Nakameguro for indie cool, yakitori (grilled chicken) under the train tracks at Yurakucho, Kichijoji’s Inokashira Park for a lazy Sunday, authentic spicey Korean food in Shin-Okubo

When finished, Sky Tree will be the world’s second tallest building, standing at 634 metres (194 metres shorter than the Burj Khalifa, Dubai)

Where’s the buzz?

Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku

Former name Edo

Number of restaurants More than 80,000, of which 240 were awarded stars in the 2011 Michelin Guide

…and one thing it might like to forget

On May 23, 2010, 323 women grouped together at Tokyo’s Venus Fort to stage the world’s largest bikini parade, as confirmed by Guinness Records. Lordy! Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 3

50 THINGS TO DO THIS SPRING

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The country may be facing its biggest post-war crisis, but Tokyoites are a determined bunch. Here, then, are 50 events and activities to get involved in. Whether you’re swilling beer at a festival or gazing at nudes outside an art gallery, there’s still plenty to do

4 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

Spring guide

Around town

tipsy on top of a 1Get mountain

There are numerous hiking options within easy reach of central Tokyo, though the best known – with some 2.6 million visitors each year – is Mt Takao. True to form, there are plenty of vending machines at the summit, and at this time of year, the rocky precipice is awash with Asahisoaked spring drinking parties. Load your wallet with readies and take the cable car halfway up. The peak is a mere 40-minute climb from the 400 metre station. Once there, the views are splendid and the beer as cold as you like. Transport: TakaosanGuchi Station (Keio line)

2Rent a dog, hit the riverbank

Renting dogs is not an unusual practice here in Tokyo, and can be as good an excuse as any to head to the park for a bit of a stroll. The last canine Time Out Tokyo rented was severely incontinent – not ideal when you’re paying by the hour – though the shop in question has since shut down. A reasonably cheap option in a good location is Wanpakuland, who can be found a stone’s throw from Kuritsu Nishi Arai Bashi Ryokuchi Kasenjiki Ground (a real mouthful, but a pleasant riverbank park on the Arakawa River nonetheless). A four-legged companion could be yours for as little as ¥1,500. Wanpakuland. Daily, 8am-8pm. 1-30-16 Umeda, Adachi-ku, Tokyo (03 3886 5158). Transport: Kitasenju Station (Chiyoda, Hibiya lines, plus others)

3Make like a student

It may have a reputation for academic earnestness, but Tokyo University also knows how to have a good time. The annual May Fair is an open campus free-for-all that gives the many student societies a chance to show off to the general public. Rock bands, breakdancers, go players, amateur wrestlers, mooching philosophy students – they’re all here in abundance. Tokyo University May Fair. May 28-29. Tokyo University Hongo Campus, 7-3-1 Hongo, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo (050 3413 4505). Transport: Nezu Station (Chiyoda line) or Hongo-Sanchome Station (Marunouchi, Oedo lines)

4Stroll an inner-city valley

Approximately one kilometre in length, Todoroki Valley is a green and plush towpath that stretches between Todoroki Station, beneath Kampachi Dori and onwards toward the Todoroki Children’s Park. Never crowded, but also rarely deserted, the valley is popular with students from Tokyo City University, as well as the occasional office worker looking

Koenji Bikkuri Daidogei. See 6 for a little bit of solitude with which to wash down their lunchtime bento. The tolling of the Todoroki Fudo Temple bell adds to its beatific, restful nature; when the weather is good, there can be few more refreshing spots in the capital. Todoroki Valley, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Todoroki Station (Oimachi line)

Tokyo’s 5Meet newest celebrities

6Go hunting for clowns

Sure, they pinched the idea from a regular shebang in Sangenjaya, but the Koenji Bikkuri Daidogei street performance festival is still heaps of fun. For two days during Golden Week, acrobats, musicians and costumed weirdos ply the streets of the neighborhood, dispensing free, familyfriendly entertainment to all and sundry. Koenji Bikkuri Daidogei. April 30-May 1, midday-6pm. Transport: Koenji Station (Chuo line)

The latest and most celebrated inhabitants of Ueno Zoo moved into their new home on April 1. The two pandas, on loan from a Ride Japan’s oldest wildlife sanctuary in China’s Sichuan rollercoaster province, have started a 10-year Japan’s oldest amusement park stay (costing Tokyo tax payers is also home to the country’s ¥80 million in loan fees oldest rollercoaster, a rickety The last canine alone) that is expected to affair that would feel liferake in approximately ¥20 threatening if it wasn’t we rented was billion per year through so tame. Named, simply, severely incontinent – tourism. Judging by the ‘Rollercoaster’, it opened not ideal when you’re panda motifs that are in 1953 and holds a kind paying by plastered around the of well-worn appeal, as the hour Ueno area already, the does Asakusa Hanayashiki bears should prepare to be – the park itself having inundated from the off. Japan opened as a flower viewing does love its cutesy mammals. promenade way back in 1853. Ueno Zoo. Tue-Sun, 10am-4pm; closed Asakusa Hanayashiki. Daily, 10am-6pm. Mon. Adults ¥600, kids ¥200. 9-83 Ueno Adults ¥900, ages 5-12 ¥400. 2-28-1 Koen, Taito-ku, Tokyo (03 3828 5171). Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo (03 3842 8780). Transport: Ueno Station (Yamanote, Ginza, Transport: Asakusa Station (Asakusa, Hibiya lines) Ginza lines)

Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 5

Spring guide

8Sniff the azaleas

nation. One Love Jamaica Fesival. May For 11 months of every year, Nezu 21-22. Yoyogi Park (www.onelove-jamaicaShrine doesn’t attract all that much fes.org). Transport: Harajuku Station attention from the outside world. Then (Yamanote line) spring rolls around, and its remarkable crop of azaleas bursts into bloom. The Celebrate under cover of shrine precincts are home to some 3,000 darkness azalea plants – roughly 50 varieties in Okunitama Shrine in Fuchu ranks among total, including rare breeds such as the the oldest shrines in the Tokyo area, but black karafune flower – and have it’s got another claim to fame too: to find space for at least as it’s home to one of the region’s The many flower aficionados ‘three bizarre festivals’. The ‘Darkness during the month-long Kurayami Matsuri – literally, Festival’ earned Bunkyo Tsutsuji Matsuri ‘Darkness Festival’ – its name thanks to earned its name thanks (Bunkyo Azalea Festival). the Edo-era practice April 9-May 5. 1-28to the Edo-era practice of 9 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, holding the main parade of holding the main Tokyo (03 3822 0753). after the city’s lights had parade after the city’s Transport: Nezu or Sendagi been turned out. These lights had been Stations (Chiyoda line) days the parade leaves the turned out shrine at the more reasonable Go globetrotting hour of 6pm on May 5. Kurayami without leaving town Matsuri. April 30-May 6. Transport: There are free parties going on in Yoyogi Fuchu-Hommachi Station (Musashino, Park most weekends – and no, we don’t Nambu lines) or Fuchu Station (Keio line) mean the kind that get shut down by the police within half an hour. An open-air stage Head back in time area close to the iconic Yoyogi National Tokyo’s facade may be in a Stadium hosts a wide range of themed never-ending cycle of renewal, but its events throughout the year, from eco architectural heritage is well preserved in markets to celebrations of marginalised an unexpectedly rich hoard of buildings south-east Asian countries. One of the at this picturesque branch of the Edoliveliest takes place mid-spring: the One Tokyo Museum. As well as swanky private Love Jamaica Festival, promising live residences and quaint old town shops, music, dancing, and a heap of stalls selling there’s a host of one-offs, such as an handicrafts, food and drink from the island ornate bathhouse and a mausoleum built

for a shogun’s wife. Even the visitors’ centre once served as a ceremonial pavilion in front of the Imperial Palace. Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum. Tue-Sun, 9.30am-5.30pm; closed Mon. Adults ¥400, kids aged 12 and over, ¥200. 3-7-1 Sakuracho, Koganei, Tokyo (042 388 3300). Transport: MusashiKoganei Station (Chuo line)

12Pet a farmyard critter

If playing with fowl and livestock seems like the kind of thing that’d make you happy, head on over to the petting area, a leafy enclosure at Ueno Zoo. It’s basically a huge love-in for the kids, though we can’t imagine it being much fun for the chickens – poor things can’t walk two metres without having their feathers ruffled. Ueno Zoo. Tue-Sun, 10am-4pm; closed Mon. Adults ¥600, kids ¥200. 9-83 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku, Tokyo (03 3828 5171). Transport: Ueno Station (Yamanote, Ginza, Hibiya lines)

13Celebrate nature

Late spring is hotaru season – a brief period of days when Genji fireflies come out and enchant riverbanks across the country. The festivals that surround their appearance are friendly affairs, none more so than the annual Hotaru Matsuri, which turns 45 on June 12. Locals are known to breed the fireflies and release them in Hotaru Park, and it is thought that the best time to see them is between 8pm and 9pm. Hotaru Festival. June 12. Hotaru Park, 3-9-1 Minami-den-en, Fussa, Tokyo. Transport: Ushihama Station (Ome line)

14Hunt for white elephants

There are flea markets, and then there’s the eye-popping spectacle that unfolds at Makuhari Messe every Golden Week. The Doki Doki Flea Market is Japan’s largest bric-a-brac fair, drawing around 1,300 vendors each day. Doki Doki Flea Market. May 3-5. 10am-5pm. ¥500. Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama-ku, Chiba. Transport: Kaihin-Makuhari Station (Keiyo line)

15Dabble in botany

One of two botanical gardens run by the University of Tokyo, Koishikawa is a stately patch of private parkland that dates back to the Meiji Restoration and has the rambling ruins to show for it. The living plant collection proudly boasts 4,000 different species, some of which are up to 300 years old. Koishikawa Botanical Gardens. Tue-Sun, 9am-4.30pm; closed Mon. 3-7-1 Hakusan, Bunkyoku, Tokyo (03 3814 2625). Transport: Hakusan Station (Mita line)

16Twitch! Flea market bric-a-brac. See 14 6 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

The Tokyo Port Wild Bird Park is one of the capital’s hidden secrets, but is well known by the local twitcher community. While bird watching is said

Spring guide

your respects to 20Pay the gods

to be better during the winter time, the assortment of gardens and reclaimed ponds make for a pleasant springtime stroll whether you’re into your cormorants or not. Tokyo Port Wild Bird Park. Tue-Sun, 9am-5pm; closed Mon. Adults ¥300, junior high students ¥150, kids free. 3-1 Toukai, Ota-ku, Tokyo (03 3799 5031). Transport: Ryutsu Center Station (Tokyo Monorail Haneda line)

17Row yer boat

Tokyo’s first boathouse opened in 1918, funds coming (in part) from Mayor Kiyoshi Furukawa’s own pocket. Rent yourself a vessel and get an eyeful of the blossoms lining Sotobori Dori and the ruins of Edo Castle’s outer moat. Canal Café rowing boat hire, ¥600 for 30 minutes. Daily, 11.30am-4pm. 1-9 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo (03 3260 8068). Transport: Iidabashi Station (Sobu, Tozai, Oedo lines)

18Pick a punnet or two

There are plenty of strawberry picking options out in the fields of Chiba and Kanagawa, but closer to the centre of the big city they’re hard to come by. That said, there are places offering the chance to get your fingers red and juicy, notably Shibasaki Engei which is more greenhouse than open field, but thoroughly pleasant nonetheless. Shibasaki Engei. Until mid-

Shiseido spring colours, Mitsukoshi. See 21

May. Daily, 10am-3pm. 100 grams, ¥200 (070 5023 3738). Transport: Manganji Station (Tama Toshi Monorail line)

Love thy horse

Baji Park is a well loved part of town, especially for those with equine leanings. Run by the JRA, open since the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, the park stages two horse shows each year, in spring and autumn. Taking place at the height of Golden Week, the spring show includes various jumping events, a ‘light cavalry’ display, plus more hands-on activities for the kids. At the time of writing, no official schedule had been released. JRA Horse Show. May 3-5. Baji Park, 2-1-1 Kamiyoga, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo. Transport: SakuraShinmachi station (Tokyu Denentoshi line)

It’s described as ‘one of the largest rituals of the year’ at Tokyo’s most venerated shrine, which is to say that it’s a very serious proceeding indeed. The Haru-noTaisai, also known as the Spring Grand Festival, is held at Meiji Shrine every year during Golden Week. Visitors can watch a series of Shinto ceremonies to honour the gods, including performances of traditional dance, music and theatre. Spring Grand Festival. May 2-3. Meiji Shrine, 1-1 YoyogiKamizonocho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (03 3379 5511). Transport: Harajuku Station (Yamanote line) or Meiji-Jingumae Station (Chiyoda line)

out the latest 21Check colours

The spring season is a time of renewal in the fashion world, and ladies keen to keep up with the colours should head to Mitsukoshi, where English and Mandarin speaking staff are always on hand to help out. The leading brands and counters are all there (look out for local brands, including Shiseido and Shu Uemura), all of which you can try on for size (or shade) before you splash the cash. Ginza Mitsukoshi. Daily, 10am-7pm. 4-6-16 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo (03 3562 1111). Transport: Ginza Station (Ginza, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines)

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Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 7

Spring guide those same musicians branch out into the world of film. This grandiosely named festival showcases shorts made by Tenniscoats, Nisennenmondai, Pikachu and others – many of them dabbling in the cinematic arts for the first time. Enban International Film Festival. April 29-May 4, screenings at 6pm and 9pm. Tickets ¥1,000. 2F, 3-59-11 Koenji-Minami, Suginami-ku, Tokyo (03 5306 2937). Transport: Koenji Station (Chuo line)

out with 25Hang hobbyists

Actor Otani Oniji III as Edobei, by Toshusai Sharaku. Courtesy of Tokyo National Museum

If your idea of a good evening at home involves knitting a scarf before tossing off a quick still life painting and applying the finishing touches to your Gundam kit model, this one’s for you. The Japan Hobby Show is the country’s largest handicrafts fair, and corals together businesses hawking everything from beads and fabrics to gardening tools. There’s also a separate area where budding creators can show off the fruits of their labours. Japan Hobby Show. April 27-29, 10am-5pm. Adults ¥1,000. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Kokusai-Tenjijo Station (Rinkai line) or Kokusai-Tenjijo Seimon Station (Yurikamome line)

26Get surreal The mystery of Sharaku. See 30

Art

yourself with freaky sculptures 23Surround

Taro Okamoto – ‘the Picasso of Japan’ – is celebrated at his own museum and café, where you can grab a coffee in the If you need an excuse to go for a wander garden, surrounded by his art. As summer in the park, then do it to keep the approaches, look out for plans to naked men of Kichijoji company. open later into the evening, when Fear not, dear readers – the building is lit up like an The these are not real men. ornamental night museum. naked men of They are merely statues, Taro Okamoto Memorial Kichijoji are merely but they never fail to Museum. Wed-Mon,10amprompt a double take from 6pm; closed Tue. Adults statues, but they passersby. In fact, they are ¥600, kids ¥300. 6-1-19 never fail to prompt more than mere statues; Minami-Aoyama, Minatoa double take from these are the creations of ku, Tokyo (03 3406 0801). passersby Seibou Kitamura, the highly Transport: Omotesando respected sculptor most Station (Chiyoda, Ginza, famous for the pointing statue Hanzomon lines) in Nagasaki Peace Park, whose museum they now guard, come rain, come Attend an amateur shine, without a stitch on their backs. On film festival display outside Kitamura Seibou Museum, Both as a live venue and CD shop, Enban Inokashira Park. Transport: Kichijoji Station has been a reliable bastion for terminally (Chuo, Keio Inokashira lines) obscure indie musicians. Now it’s helping

See the naked men of Kichijoji

8 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

If you’ve not seen Le Surréalisme yet, then this spring represents your last chance to do so. Running until May 15, the exhibition features masters such as Dalí, Duchamp and Cornell, making this a mustsee for any art lover. Le Surréalisme. Until May 15. Mon, Wed-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; closed Tue. Adults ¥1,500, univesity students ¥1,200, high school students ¥800. NACT, 7-22-2, Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Nogizaka Station (Chiyoda line)

27Fall for some fan art

The really dedicated manga fans don’t just read comics: they make their own, using characters from popular series. For a taste of Japan’s flourishing dojinshi fan comic scene, hit Super Comic City 20. Tens of thousands of amateur artists congregate at this two-day market to sell limited editions of their handiwork. Super Comic City. May 3-4, 10am-3pm. ¥1,000. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Kokusai-Tenjijo Station (Rinkai line) or Kokusai-Tenjijo Seimon Station (Yurikamome line)

some cutting28Contemplate edge photography While some snappers get their best work by developing a connection with their subjects, Takashi Homma makes a virtue of detachment. The Tokyo native worked

Spring guide in advertising and fashion, even doing a stint at British magazine i-D before making his name as an art photographer. New Documentary features video and installations alongside the photos. New Documentary. Until June 26. Tue-Sat 11am-7pm; closed Mon. Adults ¥1,000, university students ¥800. Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, 3-20-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjukuku, Tokyo (03 5353 0756). Transport: Hatsudai Station (Keio New line)

29Meet the master

Rembrandt, master of light and shadow, gets a big showing this spring, with around 100 major pieces on display, including 30 pieces printed on Japanese paper, which the artist used from 1647 after the East India Company began importing it into Europe. Rembrandt: The Quest for Chiaroscuro. Until June 12. TueSun, 9.30am-4.30pm; closed Mon. Adults ¥1,400, university students ¥1,100, high school students ¥600. National Museum of Western Art, 7-7 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Ueno Station (Yamanote, Ginza, Hibiya lines)

30Ponder an ukiyoe mystery

Appearing, as if from nowhere, in early 1794, Toshusai Sharaku took just 10 months to produce around 140 woodblock prints, many of them now considered classics, before vanishing, apparently

Dine with Taro Okamoto. See 23 back into thin air. To this day, so little is known about him that his very existence is the matter of major study and debate. His work is on display this spring at the Tokyo National Museum, sourced and brought in from around the world, including selections from the kabuki actor series for which he is perhaps best known. Sharaku. May 1-June 12. Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm, Sat, Sun & hol 9.30am-6pm. Adults ¥1,500, university students ¥1,200, high school students ¥900. Tokyo National Museum, 13-9 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku, Tokyo (03 5405 8686). Transport: Ueno Station (Ginza, Hibiya, Yamanote lines)

into someone else’s 31Look subconscious

Art informel was developed in postWWII France by Jean Fautrier and Jean Dubuffet to express the subconscious. This exhibition collates work by the original masters and those who followed in their path. Postwar Abstract Painting in France and Art Informel. April 29-July 6. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm; closed Mon. Adults ¥800, university/high school students ¥500. Bridgestone Museum of Art, 1-101 Kyobashi, Chuo-ku, Tokyo (03 3563 0241). Transport: Nihonbashi Station (Toei Asakusa, Ginza, Tozai lines)

Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 9

Spring guide (last admission 4pm). Adults ¥200, kids ¥50. 11 Naito-cho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Shinjuku-Gyoenmae Station (Marunouchi line), plus others

Tokyo’s very own Central Park, Shinjuku Gyoen is surely one of the world’s most attractive inner city green spaces. Highly recommended

to a festival, have a 33Head beer or ten

Spring is open season for Japan’s beer lovers, as a number of large-scale gatherings erupt around the Tokyo area. The biggest of these is the Great Japan Beer Festival in Ebisu, which last year drew some 5,500 attendees. If you don’t mind the long lines and conditions reminiscent of the Yamanote line on a Friday night, it’s a lot of fun, and offers a chance to sample literally hundreds of microbrews. June 4 (11.30am-3pm, 4pm7.30pm) and June 5 (12-4pm). ¥4,900. Ebisu Garden Hall, 1-13-2 Mita, Meguroku, Tokyo (www.beertaster.org). Transport: Ebisu Station (Yamanote, Saikyo, ShonanShinjuku, Hibiya lines)

Shinjuku Gyoen and the NTT tower. See 32

Food & drink 32Pack a picnic

There’s no better time of year to throw down a rug and unpack your bento, and the capital has an abundance of beautiful parks that make ideal picnic spots. Our personal favourite is Tokyo’s

10 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

very own Central Park, Shinjuku Gyoen, surely one of the world’s most attractive inner city green spaces. If you need a place to fill your basket first, try the food court in the basement of Isetan department store in Shinjuku Sanchome, where the vast range of choice is worth a visit alone. Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Daily, 9am-4.30pm

and drink on the 34Eat waterfront

Two of the nicest outdoor terraces in Tokyo belong to eateries that also boast plummy waterside locations. TY Harbor Brewery is perched on the intersection of the Tennozu and Shibaura canals, and the beers brewed on site never taste sweeter than when supped out on the patio, which has space for 130 people. That’s

Spring guide nothing compared to the vast Canal Café in Iidabashi, where you can scoff Italian grub out on the deck before renting one of the rowing boats for half an hour. TY Harbor Brewery. Mon-Sat 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-10pm; Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-10pm. 2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo (03 5479 4555). Transport: Tennozu Isle Station (Tokyo Monorail). Canal Café. Mon-Sat 11.30am11pm, Sun 11.30am-9.30pm. 1-9 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo (03 3260 8068). Transport: Iidabashi Station (Sobu, Tozai, Oedo lines)

on some bamboo 35Chomp shoots

If you aren’t already scoffing down slices of takenoko – bamboo shoots – as you read this, then your time is running out. There’s a slim window of opportunity during the lifespan of a bamboo plant where its shoots can be eaten, making it perhaps the quintessential Japanese spring vegetable. Eat it raw, as tempura, or with rice to make the popular comfort food, takenoko gohan. Takenoko season usually runs until late April

36Drink in the view

There are plenty of high rise drinking establishments in Tokyo, but few of them do alfresco at a greater altitude than Il Terrazza, in the middle

The quintessential spring vegetable. See 35 of twinkling Ginza. Sitting on one of the plush leather sofas, it’s a pleasant feeling indeed to be looking down on the neighbouring eateries, even if it’s only a physical rather than metaphorical height. It’s expensive, though. Best to visit for a couple of Italian beers and a few olives,

then head back down to the real world before your wallet suffers an attack of vertigo. Bvlgari La Terrazza Lounge. Daily, midday-midnight. 11F Bvlgari Ginza Tower, 2-7-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo (03 6362 0555). Transport: Ginza Station (Ginza, Hibiya, Marunochi lines)

Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 11

Spring guide

Hibiya Open-Air Concert Hall. See 40

Music & nightlife

the Locomotion 37Do

It says a lot about the enduring appeal of Australia’s greatest pop export that Kylie Minogue’s upcoming Japan dates will be her first in the country for 20 years. The hugely expensive DJ Harvey at Freaks Aphrodite tour comes complete Music Festival. See 41 with original designs by Dolce & Gabbana, and features guest mean to this country, and they return, DJ turns by French electro star Anoraak no doubt feeling justifiably triumphant, and Japanese MC cum style icon Verbal. to Nippon Budokan towards the end of Kylie Minogue. April 23-24, 4pm. Tickets April, bringing their latest album What If... ¥8,500. Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, along for anyone who cares. Personally, Mihama-ku, Chiba. Transport: Kaihinand we feel we speak for the majority Makuhari Station (Keiyo line) of ticket holders here, if it’s not ‘To Be With You’, we’re not listening. Mr Big. Relive your youth with April 25, 6pm. Tickets ¥8,000a cheesy rock act ¥9,000. Nippon Budokan, 2-3 Ah, Mr. Big. What would our Kitanomaru-koen, Chiyoda-ku, hairy teenage years have Note to Mr. Big: Tokyo. Transport: Kudanshita been without you? More Station (Hanzomon, Shinjuku, importantly, what would if it’s not ‘To Be Tozai lines) the Japanese music scene With You’, we’re have looked like had you not listening… not arrived twenty years ago Join a jam looking like all of Glay’s wet session dreams come at once? That Influential music mag Rockin’ Japan was a key part of last On already holds massive year’s reunion celebrations shows Japanese festivals every summer just how much Paul Gilbert and the boys (Rock in Japan) and winter (Countdown

12 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

Japan), but that didn’t stop it from launching a new event last spring. Japan Jam is a little different: rather than play a run-through of their greatest hits, the performers do one-off sessions with guest musicians, and pretty much anything is fair game. This year’s bill includes popular guitar bands The Back Horn, Sambomaster, 10-Feet and Zazen Boys – the latter playing with (or against?) free jazz musicians and psychedelic troubadours. Japan Jam 2011. May 3-5, time TBA. Tickets ¥7,500 per day. Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama-ku, Chiba (www.japanjam. jp). Transport: Kaihin-Makuhari Station (Keiyo line)

a show at an outdoor theatre 40Catch

Used since 1942, the Hibiya Open-Air Stage, an outdoor theatre in Hibiya Park, puts enjoyment at the mercy of the weather. Umbrellas are not allowed, but turn up on a nice day and you can enjoy one of Tokyo’s few open-air venues. Unfortunately, it is an ode to concrete, including the seats, but with a decent band onstage it’s easy to forget such hardships. If you’re in the area on May 3, we recommend dropping in to see Fishmans, an oddly named but highly influential dub band that will be performing with guests including UA and Cornelius.

Spring guide Fishmans. May 3, 5.30pm. Tickets ¥5,000-¥6,800. 1-3 Hibiya Koen, Chiyodaku, Tokyo. Transport: Kasumigaseki Station (Chiyoda, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines)

41Let your freak flag fly

Many people in Japan will be bunking off work for the first week of May – taking advantage of the cluster of national holidays that comprise Golden Week. You can finish it with a bang at Freaks Music Festival, a new daytime dance event held at Sagamiko Resort in Kanagawa Prefecture, not far from Mt. Takao. LA resident DJ Harvey presides over a varied bill that ranges from the synthesizer experiments of Logic System to the African-influenced psychedelic jams of OOIOO, via Radio Slave’s techno and Washed Out’s chillwave pop. Freaks Music Festival ‘11. May 7, 10am-8pm. Tickets ¥7,500. Sagamiko Resort, 1634 Wakayanagi, Midori-ku, Kanagawa (www. freaks-fes.jp). Transport: Sagamiko Station (Chuo line)

42Get classical

Les Titans, a classical music festival taking place at Tokyo International Forum over the Golden Week break, features the work of Strauss, Brahms, Schubert, Herzogenberg and many more. Subtitled, somewhat fittingly, ‘magnificent works written during turbulent times’,

Shangri-La ‘Black Ball’. See 43 the programme features some 300 performances, both free of charge and paid for, presented by names as prominent as the Yomiuri Nippon Symphony Orchestra and the Tokyo Metropolitan Symphony Orchestra. If strident classical themes are the order of your day, drop by Tokyo International Form to see what may be on offer. Les Titans. May 3-5, various times/prices. Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Yurakucho Station (Yamanote, Yurakucho lines)

43Return to Shangri-la

Shangri-La’s ‘Black Ball’ event, said to be the largest gay party in Asia, was due to take place on March 19, but the March 11 earthquake forced a cancellation. Thankfully, the party will be cranked up again, as good as new, on April 30, and they’re promising to ‘return Japan to its good old self’. Whatever that might mean. Black Ball. April 30, 11pm. Tickets ¥4,000. Ageha, 2-2-10 Shinkiba, Koto-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Shinkiba Station (Keiyo, Rinkai, Yurakucho lines)

Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 13

Spring guide

Sport & fitness

packages for the inner city angler, with two dedicated fishing areas – one aimed, in a somewhat derogatory fashion, at women Do the downward dog... and children (‘mini fishing’), while the other Life in Tokyo can be a bit on the is maintained as man domain. The catch tense side at the best of times, and is carp, and all fish are returned to the with recent events weighing heavily on pond once your haul has been weighed. your mind, a spot of yoga might be Reaching a certain weight wins you just what the doctor ordered. another free hour, meaning the Step forward, the billingual truly legendary fishermen need If it’s pain teachers of YogaJaya – a never go home again. Ichigaya you fear, you studio located between Fishing Centre. Mon-Fri, Ebisu and Nakameguro that midday-10pm; Sat-Sun, 9amneedn’t worry. Dry follows the eight-limb yogic 7pm. Men ¥690, women cleaning bills, on philosophy, or Ashtanga. and middle school students the other hand? Single classes cost ¥3,000 ¥590, kids ¥420. 1-1 Run for the (cheaper if you buy packages Ichigaya Tamachi, Shinjukuhills! upfront). YogaJaya Studio, 2F, ku, Tokyo (03 3260 1325). 1-25-11 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Transport: Ichigaya Station (Sobu, Tokyo (www.yogajaya.com; 03 5784 Yurakucho, Namboku, Shinjuku lines) 3622). Transport: Daikanyama Station (Tokyoko line) Score the winning goal The Metropolis League is split Land yourself a lunker over three divisions and provides many Fishing in the centre of Tokyo? footie-loving gentlemen with the chance Not as far fetched as you’d have thought. to lose some weight, maintain their Ichigaya Fishing Centre offers a variety of skills and make some thoroughly good

friends. Awwww. In truth, these leagues are taken very seriously, and the average left-footed wonder can’t just rock up and demand a kick around. The teams are always interested in meeting potential new whizzkids, however, and you’ll find all the relevant team requirements and links on www.footyjapancompetitions.com.

like it’s China, join a 47Make Tai Chi club Think Tai Chi, think elderly Chinese folk delicately going through flowing motions in the parks of Shanghai. If a relaxing morning doing the same in Tokyo sounds appealing, then Guan Ping Yang Tai Chi Chuan Japan is for you. Now into its seventeenth year, the class congregates four mornings per week in Yoyogi Park (Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays, 7.30am-9.30am; Sundays, 9am-11am) under the guidance of group leader, Mr D. D. Harrington. Prices are discussed individually (03 3485 4160).

48Get on your bikes and ride

While the capital is a train-spotter’s paradise, it’s also a great city for exploring by bicycle. Indeed, your biggest problem may be deciding where to start. For Neil Garscadden, director of Tokyo Rent a Bike and Tokyo Bike Tours, spring is a great season to get peddling. ‘I think the river rides are a good idea,’ he told us. ‘If it is outside cherry blossom time, one can ride along the Meguro River all the way from Nakameguro to Tennozu Island, with Haneda Airport just another 20 minutes further.’ For a shorter trip, he recommends a ride around the Imperial Palace, one of several tour options offered on his website (www.tokyorentabike.com).

49Pack a piece

Claiming the biggest paintballing field in Japan, the appropriately named War Zone crouches on the outskirts of the metropolis in the deep, dark countryside like a natural born graffiti artist. It’s said that Japanese paintball guns shoot at a lower velocity than the rest of the world, so if it’s pain you fear, you needn’t worry. Dry cleaning bills, on the other hand? Run for the hills! Basic package starts from ¥7,000. War Zone. 136 Kamakari, Inbamura, Chiba (0476 99 2260; www. war-zone.jp/english). Transport: Keisei-Usui Station (Keisei Main line)

50Burn some rubber

Cycling around Tokyo. See 48 14 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

More fun for big boys and girls can be found at the New Tokyo Go Karting Circuit, where the main circuit runs just shy of a kilometre. Don’t go thinking that karting is just for kids, though – the likes of David Coulthard and Lewis Hamilton first got their tyres on the tarmac with this sport. From ¥3,500. New Tokyo Go Karting Circuit. Ichihara, Chiba (0436 36 3139). Transport: Kofudai Station (Kominato line)

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Travel essentials

Getting Around Arriving & leaving By air

Two airports serve Tokyo. Most overseas flights arrive at Narita International Airport, which is nearly 70 kilometres from Tokyo and well served by rail and bus links to the city. Haneda International Airport, closer to the city and to the south, handles mainly internal flights, though has recently started ramping up its international routes. Narita International Airport Flight information 0476 34 5000, www.narita-airport.jp/en The Narita Express train (050 2016 1603, www.jreast.co.jp/e/nex), run by Japan Railways (JR), is the easiest way to get into Tokyo from Narita, but it’s also the most expensive. All trains go to Tokyo Station (¥2,940), with some also serving Shinjuku (¥3,110), Ikebukuro (¥3,110), Omiya (¥3,740) and Yokohama (¥4,180). Trains depart every 30 to 40 minutes, and seats can be reserved up to a month in advance. The Keisei Skyliner (Narita 0476 32 8505, Ueno 03 3831 0989, www.keisei.co.jp/ keisei/tetudou/ skyliner/us), operated by a private rail company, is the fastest option. Trains on this line will take you

into Ueno or Nippori Station (¥2,400) in as little as 36 minutes. Even cheaper is the Keisei limited express (tokkyu), a regular train that makes a few stops on its 75-minute route to Ueno Station (¥1,000). Limousine buses (03 3665 7220, www.limousinebus.co.jp) also run regularly to various key points and certain hotels in the city. There are ticket counters inside the arrivals halls near the exits of terminals 1 and 2; buses depart from just outside. Fares are ¥3,000. Taxis are recommended only for those with bottomless wallets: they cost from ¥30,000 and are often slower than the train. Haneda International Airport Flight information 03 5757 8111, www.tokyo-airport-bldg. co.jp. Haneda is served by the Tokyo Monorail (www.tokyo-monorail.co.jp), which leaves every five to ten minutes from 5.11am to 12.05am, linking up to Hamamatsucho Station (¥470) on the Yamanote line in little over 20 minutes. The Keikyu line (03 5789 8686, www. keikyu.co.jp) can take you to Shinagawa, also on the Yamanote line, in 19 minutes (¥400). From here you can link up with major JR lines. Limousine buses to central Tokyo cost in the region of ¥1,000, depending on which part of the city you want to go to. Taxis start from ¥6,000.

Tokyo public transport

Tokyo has one of the most efficient train and subway systems in the world: in the rare event of delays in the morning rush, staff give out apology slips for workers to show their bosses. Services are fast, clean, reliable and remarkably easy to use. Almost all stations have signs in English and signs telling you which exit to take. Subways and train lines are colour-coded. Subways and trains operate from 5am to around midnight (JR lines slightly later). Rush hours are roughly 7.309.30am and 5-7pm; the last train of the day can be extremely uncomfortable. Tokyo’s rail network is run by several different companies, but a Pasmo or Suica magnetic rail pass (see overleaf) gives access to almost all routes. The userfriendly Hyperdia website (www.hyperdia. com/en/) is in English. You can type in your starting point and destination to get routes, times and prices. JR trains Overland trains in Tokyo are operated by Japan Railways East (050 2016 1603, www.jreast.co.jp/e). Their Yamanote line is the loop that defines the city centre – all other subway and rail lines link to it. JR’s other major lines in Tokyo are: Chuo (orange), Sobu (yellow), Saikyo (turquoise) Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 19

Travel essentials and Keihin Tohoku (blue). Because of Japan’s notoriety for gropers, several lines offer women-only cars during peak hours. Subways There are 13 subway lines in Tokyo. Most are run by Tokyo Metro (03 3941 2004, 9am-9pm daily, www.tokyometro.jp/e), formerly the Teito Rapid Transit Authority (Eidan). Its colour-coded lines are: Chiyoda (dark green), Fukutoshin (brown), Ginza (orange), Hanzomon (purple), Hibiya (grey), Marunouchi (red), Nanboku (light green), Tozai (turquoise) and Yurakucho (yellow). Four slightly pricier subway lines are run by the metropolitan government, Toei (03 3816 5700, 9am-7pm daily, www. kotsu.metro. tokyo.jp). They are: Asakusa (pale pink), Mita (blue), Oedo (bright pink) and Shinjuku (green). If transferring from Tokyo Metro to Toei trains, buying a transfer ticket is ¥70 cheaper than buying separate tickets. Private train lines Tokyo’s private railway lines mainly ferry commuters to the outlying districts of the city. Most were founded by companies that also run department stores, so they usually terminate inside, or next to, one of the branches. You can pick up a full map showing all lines and subways from the airport information counter on arrival. Several lines offer women-only cars during peak hours: look for the pink window stickers (or the hundreds of grinning faces in the train if you’ve entered by mistake). Tokyo’s major private lines are: Keio www.keio.co.jp Keisei www.keisei.co.jp Keikyu www.keikyu.co.jp Odakyu www.odakyu.jp Seibu www.seibu-group.co.jp/railways Tobu www.tobuland.com Tokyu www.tokyu.co.jp

Tickets & passes

Standard tickets Single tickets for adults (under-12s pay half-price, under-6s travel free) are available at automatic ticket machines at any station. Touch-screen ticket machines can display information in English, but should you be unsure of the fare, buy the cheapest ticket and settle up at a fare adjustment machine (or window) at your destination. These machines, usually bright yellow, are found just before the exit barriers of all stations. Travellers with incorrect tickets do not have to pay punitive fines. Transferring from one line to another, provided it is run by the same operator, will 20 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

be covered by the price of your ticket. If your journey involves transferring from one network to another, you will have to buy a transfer ticket (if available) or buy another ticket at the transfer point. If you’re in town for any length of time, buy a travel pass. Pasmo/Suica The Pasmo card launched in spring 2007 as the first travel card to cover buses, trains and the metro network. Containing an IC chip, the cards are swiped over screens at the ticket gate, where the minimum fare is automatically deducted, with the balance being picked up on exit at your destination. The cards can be purchased at JR ‘Green Window’ areas or at ticket machines in train or subway stations. Credits can be added at most ticket machines. The Suica card, once exclusively for JR lines, now functions identically to Pasmo cards. JR Passes If you’ve bought a Japan Rail Pass (www. japanrailpass.net), you can exchange it at JR offices at both Narita and Haneda airports, as well as Tokyo, Shinagawa, Ueno, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro and Yokohama stations. Note that you’ll need to present your passport.

Buses

Like the trains, buses in Tokyo are run by several companies. Travel by bus can be confusing if you’re new to Japan, as signs are rarely in English. Toei and Keio bus fares cost ¥200, other buses are ¥210 (half-price for kids) – no matter what the distance. Get on the bus at the front and off at the back. If you aren’t using a Pasmo card, drop the exact fare

into the slot in front of the driver. If you don’t have it, a change machine, usually to the right, will deduct your fare from the money. Fare machines accept ¥50, ¥100 and ¥500 coins and ¥1,000 notes. Stops are usually announced by a pre-recorded voice. A Toei bus route guide in English is available at Toei subway stations and hotels.

Cycling

The bicycle remains the most common form of local transport in Tokyo, and therefore the most commonly stolen form of transport, so get a strong lock. Areas in and around stations are usually no-parking zones for bikes, a rule that locals gleefully ignore, but which can result in your bike being impounded. Some hotels will loan bicycles to guests.

Driving

If you rent a car, expect to pay astronomical parking fees (usually around ¥100 for 30 minutes, more in the centre). If you do decide to hire a car, you’ll need an international driving licence backed up by at least six months’ driving experience. English-speaking rental assistance is available at many of the large hotels as well as at the airport. The Japan Automobile Federation (www. jaf.or.jp) publishes a ‘Rules of the Road’ guide (¥1,000) in English. Request one from their Shiba branch office (2-2-17 Shiba, Minato-ku, Tokyo. 03 6833 9100). A Metropolitan Expressway map in English is available from the Metropolitan Expressway Public Corporation (www.shutoko.jp). If you want to drive outside the capital (which is definitely a much safer option), JR offers rail and car rental packages. Call JR East (see page 19) for details.

Travel essentials

Emergencies & resources Accidents and emergencies

The following hospitals and medical centres offer regular appointments, deal with 24-hour emergencies and have English- speaking staff. Japan Red Cross Medical Centre Open 8.30-11am, Mon-Fri. 4-1-22 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku (03 3400 1311, www.med.jrc. or.jp). Transport: Hiroo Station (Hibiya line) St Luke’s International Hospital Open 8.30-11am, Mon-Fri; appointments only from noon. 9-1 Akashicho, Chuoku (03 3541 5151, www.luke.or.jp). Transport: Tsukiji Station (Hibiya line) Seibo International Catholic Hospital Open 8-11am, Mon- Sat; appointments only from 12.30pm. Closed 3rd Sat of month. 2-5-1 Naka-Ochiai, Shinjuku-ku (03 3951 1111, www.seibokai.or.jp). Transport: Shimo-Ochiai Station (Seibu Shinjuku line) Tokyo Medical Clinic & Surgical Clinic Open 8.30am-5.30pm, Mon-Fri; 8.30amnoon Sat. Mori Bldg 32 2F, 3-4-30 ShibaKoen, Minato-ku (03 3436 3028, www. tmsc.jp). Transport: Shiba-Koen Station (Mita line)

ATMs

Japan is still a society that mainly uses cash, and restaurants and bars may refuse credit cards. Larger shops, restaurants and hotels accept major cards, but it’s always wise to carry cash. ATMs are located inside banks so many are closed overnight (times vary) and all 22 Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011

day Sundays. Larger branches, close to major stations, do however stay open 24 hours. Citibank and Shinsei Bank ATMs are open around the clock and have English instructions. Post offices are also convenient for cash: their ATMs allow you to withdraw money using most foreign credit cards and have instructions in English. Some of their ATMs open 24 hours a day.

Credit cards

To report lost or stolen credit cards, dial one of these 24-hour freephone numbers: American Express 0120 020 120. English message follows after the Japanese Diners Club 0120 074 024 MasterCard 00531 11 3886 Visa 00531 44 0022

Dental

All of the following clinics have Englishspeaking staff: Dr JS Wong Open by appointment only Mon-Wed, Fri, Sat. 1-22-3 Kami-Osaki, Shinagawa- ku (03 3473 2901). Transport: Meguro Station (Yamanote, Mita, Nanboku lines) Tokyo Clinic Dental Office Open by appointment only Mon-Thur, Sat. Mori Bldg 32 2F, 3-4-30 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku (03 3431 4225). Transport: Kamiyacho Station (Hibiya line) or Akabanebashi Station (Oedo line)

Disabled

Information for disabled visitors is available at http://accessible. jp.org. Club Tourism Division Barrier-free Travel (www. club- t.com) organises tours that cater for disabled travellers.

Electricity

Electric current in Japan runs at 100V AC. Plugs have two flat-sided prongs. If bringing electrical appliances from Europe, you need to purchase an adaptor.

Embassies

Embassies are usually open 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday; opening times for visa sections may vary. Australian Embassy 2-1-14 Mita, Minato-ku (03 5232 4111, www.australia.or.jp). Transport: AzabuJuban Station (Nanboku, Oedo lines) British Embassy 1 Ichibansho, Chiyoda-ku (03 5211 1100, www.uknow.or.jp). Transport: Hanzomon Station (Hanzomon line) Canadian Embassy 7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku (03 5412 6200, www.canadanet.or.jp). Transport: Aoyama-Itchome Station (Ginza, Hanzomon, Oedo lines) Irish Embassy 2-10-7 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku (03 3263 0695, www.embassy- avenue.jp/ireland). Transport: Hanzomon Station (Hanzomon line) New Zealand Embassy 20-40 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya-ku (03 3467 2271, www.nzembassy.com/japan).

Travel essentials Transport: Yoyogi-Koen Station (Chiyoda line) US Embassy 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku (03 3224 5000, http://tokyo.us embassy.gov). Tameike-Sanno Station (Ginza, Nanboku lines)

for directory enquiries, dial 104. Both services are Japanese- language only.

International calls

Most of Tokyo’s 24-hour manga coffee shops (manga kissa) offer cheap internet services. They are usually clustered around train stations. For a list of internet cafés ordered by station, visit www.tcvb.or.jp/en/guide/09cafe.html. Wi-Fi hotspots are sporadic, with hotel lobbies the best bet.

Dial 001 (KDDI), 0041 (Japan Telecom), 0061 (Cable & Wireless IDC) or 0033 (NTT Communications), followed by your country’s international code, area code (minus any initial zero) and the phone number. The cheapest time to call is between 11pm and 8am, when an off-peak discount of 40 per cent applies. To use a public phone you need to buy a prepaid card or have a lot of change (some old phones refuse all prepaid cards). Find a booth with ‘ISDN’ or ‘International’ on the side – usually a grey phone.

Opening hours

Public phones

Internet

Department stores and larger shops in Tokyo are traditionally open daily from 10am or 11am to around 8pm or 9pm, though the recent disaster has seen shops closing earlier in order to preserve electricity. Smaller shops are open the same hours six days a week. Mondays and Wednesdays are the most common closing days; Sunday is a normal shopping day. Convenience stores offer 24- hour shopping at slightly higher prices than supermarkets and can be found all over the city. Most restaurants open at around 11am and close around 11pm, though some bars and izakaya are open until 5am. Banks are open 9am to 3pm Monday to Friday. Main post offices are open 9am to 7pm weekdays and often on Saturdays (usually 9am-3pm) or even Sundays; smaller post offices close at 5pm Monday to Friday and at weekends.

Police

For emergencies, call 110. If you are using a green public phone, press the red button.

Post offices

Post offices (yubin-kyoku) – indicated by a red-and-white sign like a letter ‘T’ with a line over it – are plentiful. Local post offices open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, and are closed at weekends and on public holidays. Larger post offices close at 7pm on weekdays, and may open on Saturdays (usually 9am-3pm) or even Sundays. Post office ATMs accept foreign bank and credit cards.

Green phones take flexible phone cards and ¥10 and ¥100 coins, but don’t allow international calls; grey phones are the same, but usually allow international calls; grey and orange phones only take IC cards (snap off the corner before use) and coins, but you can always make international calls; the blue credit phones require a credit card to make international calls and are hard to find.

Prepaid phone cards

The KDDI ‘Super World’ prepaid card for international phone calls is sold at most major convenience stores in denominations of ¥1,000, ¥3,000 or ¥5,000 and can be used with any push-button phone.

Mobile phones

You can rent a mobile phone from Softbank stands at the airport. Otherwise, try: DoCoMo Shop, Shin-Otemachi Bldg Open 10am-7pm Mon-Fri; 10am-5pm Sat. 1F, 2-2-21 Otemachi, Chiyodaku (freephone 0120 680 100, www. mobilerental.jp/english). Tokyo station (Yamanote, Marunouchi lines)

Tourist information

The Japan National Tourist Organisation (JNTO) is the national English-language tourist service for visitors coming to

Japan. It has offices abroad, plus a Tourist Information Centre (TIC) next to Yurakucho Station. Its website, www.jnto.go.jp, is packed with useful information. There’s also the Tokyo Tourist Information Centre, run by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government in its headquarters in Shinjuku. Tokyo Tourist Information Centre Open 9am-5pm daily. 10F, 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku (03 3201 3331). Yurakucho Station (Yamanote line). There are maps, event booklets, books on Japanese customs, even NTT English phonebooks, plus a useful budget hotel booking service via the Welcome Inn Reservation Centre. There’s nothing on the outside of the building to indicate the tourist office is here – just take the lift to the tenth floor, where there is a sign. The Narita Airport outposts open 8am-8pm daily. Arrival floor, Terminal 1, Narita Airport (0476 30 3383); Arrival floor, Terminal 2, Narita Airport (0476 34 6251).

Tickets

The largest ticket agency is Ticket Pia (0570 029 111, http://t.pia.co.jp), which has outlets throughout the city, often in department stores. Convenience store chain Lawson (www2.lawsonticket.com) has ticket vending machines in most stores, but navigation is in Japanese.

Time

Japan is nine hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not currently used, though it is being discussed in the wake of the recent disaster as an energy saving device.

Tipping

Tipping is not expected in Japan and people will often be embarrassed if you try. At smart establishments, a service charge is often included.

What’s on

For arts, entertainment, food & drink and nightlife news and reviews, you’ll find all you need on www.timeout.jp/en/tokyo

Smoking

Many wards have banned public smoking, but there are designated smoking areas near, and inside, many stations. The legal age for smoking is 20.

Telephones Dialling & codes

The country code for Japan is 81. If you’re phoning from outside Japan, dial the international access code plus 81 plus 3, followed by the main eight-digit number. Numbers that begin with 0120 are freephone. For the operator, dial 100; Spring 2011 Time Out Tokyo 23

Travel essentials

24 Time Out Tokyoâ&#x20AC;&#x201A; Spring 2011

Live the Time Out life… Free coffee here!

Visitors carrying this magazine are entitled to a free cup of coffee. One magazine equals one cup each for two readers. No refills, though. Sorry!*

Time Out Café & Diner Located a stone’s throw from Ebisu Station, Time Out Café & Diner is one of the city’s hippest pitstops. Housed in the same building as the ever-trendy Liquidroom live venue, the café serves good, solid grub (the burger is a treat in itself) with a well-stocked bar to help wash it all down. With free Wi-Fi internet and ample stocks of Time Out magazines and guidebooks from around the world, it’s the perfect place to spend a relaxing moment and make plans for your next big step. Time Out Café & Diner. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11.30pm, Sat 1pm11.30pm, Sun & hol 1pm-10pm. Liquidroom 2F, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (03 5774 0440, www.timeoutcafe.jp)

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It may be be a popular spot with foreign tourists, but the Gion district of Kyoto isn’t the most accessible place for newcomers. Many of its clubs have an ‘ichigensan okotowari’ (no firsttimers) system, meaning that they won’t accept customers off the street. Time Out Lounge Gion is no different – save for the fact that it welcomes international visitors. The lounge is located in a quiet part of Gion, not far from Yasaka Shrine. The traditional exterior leads into an intimate space, plush with deep-crimson carpeting and a counter with seating for 12 people. There are also four private rooms currently being prepared, for the ultimate in exclusivity. Referral and membership is required. Time Out Lounge Gion. 570-189 Gionmachi Minamigawa, Higashiyama, Kyoto. Email gionlounge@timeoutkyoto.jp for further details

Readers carrying this magazine can visit the Time Out Gion Lounge without referral. Email now for details *This offer is only in conjunction with the Time Out Tokyo Spring 2011 Guide This is not in conjunction with the Time Out City Guide or the Time Out Shortlist publications

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