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Summer/ Autumn 2011
From boozing to boating with no roof required
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2 months in Tokyo: your at-a-glance calendar
Summer festivals The year’s biggest gatherings in one essential guide
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an alternative guide Summer/Autumn 2011  Time capital Out Tokyo 31 to the Japanese
Outdoors now!
contents Splashdown, p16
Time Out Tokyo 5-5-9-101 Hiroo Shibuya-ku Tokyo 150-0012 Japan Tel 03 5792 5721 Fax 03 5792 5793 www.timeout.jp Publisher Hiroyuki Fushitani fushitani@timeout.jp Editorial Director Jon Wilks jonwilks@timeout.jp Assistant Editor James Hadfield james@timeout.jp Digital Editor Akiko Toya toya@timeout.jp Designer David Donaghy Editorial Consultant Marcus Webb Sub Editors Ai Kato Contributors Takeshi Tojo, Atsushi Tonosaki, Daisuke Nishimura
Flaming fests, p8
inside this issue… 2 The summer at a glance 4 Tokyo’s best alternative beer gardens 8 The ultimate festival guide 16 Tokyo on the water: 30 ways to get wet 22 Getting around the capital
A word from the Editor The weather has been up and down so far this summer, but there’s a feeling that sunshine is on its way. And then what? With the country trying its hardest to save power, the best way to stay cool may be by heading outside. Whether you’re looking to get soaked or perhaps to attend a dusky festival, we’ve found the best ways to make the most of the great outdoors. Or perhaps yours is a pint at Tokyo’s highest roof garden? Whichever you choose, you’ll find what you need in this handy guide. Stay sunsafe, now, won’t you. Jon Wilks Editor
Photography James Hadfield, Takeshi Tojo, Jon Wilks Sales Manager Ryuta Sakuko sakuko@timeout.jp The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for error or omissions contained in this publication however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers. Published under the authority of and in collaboration with Time Out Group Ltd London UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under license from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK. +44 (0) 20 7813 3000. www. timeout.com
When you have finished with this magazine, please recycle it
Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 1
Events at a glance
2 months in Tokyo July Bolshoi Circus July 16-24
The greatest show in the world – well, one of them, at least – has been coming to Japan since 1958, and while it’s lost some ground to Cirque du Soleil, it still retains a certain old-school charm. Bolshoi Circus. Tickets from ¥3,500. Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, 1-17-1 Sendagaya, Shibuyaku, Tokyo (www.bolshoicircus.com). Transport: Sendagaya Station (Soba line)
Takabisha From July 16
Fuji-Q Highland is aiming for the world record books again with its latest ride. The Takabisha boasts what will be the world’s steepest roller coaster drop: a physicsdefying 121 degrees. Fuji-Q Highland. One day free pass, ¥5,000. 5-6-1 ShinNishihara, Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi (www. fujiq.jp/en). Transport: Highway bus from Shinjuku, Tokyo or Yokohama Station
The Ultraman Festival July 22-Aug 28
...in which our eponymous hero battles for his life on a department store stage
with rubber monsters at Sunshine City for 30 minutes, five times a day, for over a month. Honestly, it’s the poor actors you’ve got to feel sorry for. Ultraman Festival. From ¥1,200. Sunshine City, 3-11 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Ikebukuro Station (Yamanote, Yurakucho lines)
Antique Jamboree 2011 July 22-24
Photo by Jan Kuca/Fotopedia
Capital calendar, events at a glance
Knicknack lovers rejoice as the largest antiques market in Japan returns to Odaiba, bringing with it 500 dealers specialising in artefacts and heirlooms from Japan, Europe and the US. Antique Jamboree 2011. ¥1,000 (¥800 in adv). Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Kokusai-Tenjijo Station (Rinkai line)
Body & Soul Live in Tokyo July 24
Barely a week after celebrating Body & Soul’s 15th anniversary in NYC, house supremos Danny Krivit, François K and Joaquin ‘Joe’ Claussell are bringing the party to Tokyo. Body & Soul Live. ¥6,000 (¥5,000 in adv). Odaiba Aomi Seaside Court, 2 Aomi, Koto-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Tokyo Teleport Station (Rinkai line)
Shinjuku Eisa Festival
Art Fair Tokyo July 29-31
Both Japanese and international galleries pitch up to flog their wares. With painting, sculpture and photography to the fore, this represents the best of Tokyo’s multifaceted art scene. Art Fair Tokyo. Adults ¥1,500, kids free. Tokyo International Forum, 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo (www. artfairtokyo.com/en). Transport: Yurakucho Station (Yamanote, Yurakucho lines)
Shinjuku Eisa Festival July 30
Over 20 eisa dance troops will take to the streets around Shinjuku Station to beat portable taiko drums and twirl their way through the crowds – a colourful and noisy event. Turn to p10 for more info. Shinjuku Eisa Festival. 1.30pm-7pm, July 30. East exit, Shinjuku Station, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Shinjuku Station (Yamanote, Chuo, Keio, Odakyu, Sobu, ShonanShinjuku, Saikyo lines) 2 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
Welcome Tokyo Events at to a glance
Cover the dog, it’s fireworks season! The March 11 tragedy caused many of Japan’s traditional summer fireworks extravaganzas to be cancelled this year, but there are still a few going on if you keep your ears open…
Katsushika Fireworks Festival
Head northeast from the capital centre and you’ll find Katsushika City, where the 45th annual display boasts 7,000 fireworks. 7.20pm, July 26. Transport: Kanamachi Station (Joban line)
Jingu-Gaien Fireworks Festival
The 32nd annual event will be a charity shindig. Folks paying to enter the stadium will get to see 10,000 fireworks, happy in the knowledge that their ¥5,250 is going to a good cause. From 4pm, August 8. Transport: Aoyama-Itchome Station (Ginza, Hanzomon, Oedo lines)
Sumida River Fireworks Festival
For events in September an October, head d to
timeout.jp
August Fussa Tanabata Festival Aug 4-7
You’ll find one of Tokyo’s longest running Tanabata festivals in Fussa, featuring a ‘Princess Orihime contest’, folk dancing, a ninja performance and plenty of irresistible festival food. Turn to p11 for more info. Fussa Tanabata Festival. Fussa City centre. Transport: Fussa Station (Ome line)
Meteo Night Aug 6
Organised by indie label Less Than TV, the lineup for this one-day bash collects some of Tokyo’s foremost underground hardcore acts, including Melt-Banana, Slight Slappers and Pastafasta. Meteo Night. ¥3,000 (¥2,500 in adv). Shibuya O-West & O-Nest, 2-3 Maruyama-cho, Shibuyaku, Tokyo. Transport: Shibuya Station (Yamanote, Ginza, Hanzomon lines)
Drumline Live Aug 9-14
This two-hour show sees a veritable armada of musicians – all students or recent graduates of HCBUs – romp through a set that runs from African drumming to Stevie Wonder and the
Supremes. Drumline Live. Tickets from ¥5,800. Tokyo International Forum. 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo (drumlinelive.jp). Transport: Yurakucho Station (Yamanote, Yurakucho lines)
In the absence of the usual competition (Edogawa, Itabashi and Tamagawa displays have all been cancelled), Sumida will deploy 20,000 fireworks and possibly draw more visitors than the million it usually attracts. Turn to p13 for further info. From 7pm, August 27. Transport: Asakusa Station (Asakusa, Ginza lines)
Shrine, Yoyogi Park (www.yosakoi-harajuku. com). Transport: Meiji-Jingumae Station (Chiyoda, Fukutoshin lines)
Wire11 Aug 27
Summer Sonic Aug 13-14
There are few settings less rock’n’roll than a baseball stadium and conference centre, but if you’d rather leave your wellies at home and sleep in your own bed, this might be the one for you. Turn to p9 for more info. Summer Sonic. Tickets from ¥15,000. Makuhari Messe. 2-1 Nakase, Mihamaku, Chiba-shi, Chiba (www. summersonic.com/2011/). Transport: Kaihin Makuhari Station (Keiyo line)
Super Yosakoi Aug 27-28
Super Yosakoi
August is a good time for dancing in the streets
The final weekend of August is a good time for dancing in the streets, with major festivals occurring in Koenji and Harajuku – honestly, you’d think they’d have rescheduled one of them by now. Super Yosakoi. Omotesando, Meiji
Takkyu Ishino’s techno megarave returns to Yokohama Arena with some familiar faces in tow. Keep an ear open for Ali ‘Dubfire’ Shirazinia, Westbam and Carl Craig doing his 69 live set. Wire11. ¥11,550 in adv. Yokohama Arena, 3-10 Shin-Yokohama, Kohoku-ku, Kanagawa (www. wireweb.jp/11/). Transport: Shin-Yokohama Station (Yokohama, Shinkansen, Tokaido lines)
Koenji Awaodori Aug 27-28
12,000 dancers pile out onto the streets of Koenji over the two days of the annual Awaodori, making it one of the biggest festivals of the year in the capital – and one with massive crowds to match. Turn to p12 for more info. Koenji Awaodori. Koenji area. Transport: Koenji Station (Chuo line) Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 3
Yebisu Bar The Garden
Beers beneath the stars
The annual opening of Tokyo’s beer gardens is a highly anticipated event, but don’t settle for any old rubbish. You’ll find Time Out’s bar critics propped up at the following locations
Location, location Sekirei
If you’re going to splurge on a beer garden, they don’t come any better than this. Sekirei sits on the lawns of the Meiji Kinenkan, sections of which date back to the 19th century. The buyou traditional dance performances that used to take place here every evening have been cancelled this year, but it’s still a glorious setting. Not a cheap one, mind you: beer starts at ¥820, and most of the food costs upwards of ¥1,050, with additional 4 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
seating and service charges. Daily, 5-10.30pm. Until Aug 31. Meiji Kinenkan, 2-2-23 Moto-Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo (03 3746 7723). Transport: Shinanomachi Station (Sobu line)
Beer Mount
To say that Mt. Takao’s beer garden gets crowded at the weekend would be a gross understatement. If you can forgive the crush of bodies, though, the view is worth it. The price (¥3,300 for men, ¥3,000 for women) includes food and drink. MonFri, 3.30-6pm; Sat-Sun and nat. hols,
Sekirei 2-9pm (Aug, 1-9pm). Until Oct 2. Next to Takaosan cable car station (042 665 9943). Transport: Takaosan-Guchi Station (Keio Takaosan line)
Yebisu Bar The Garden
Because nothing beats a rowdy outdoor drinking session right in the seat of Japanese political power. The outdoor deck at Yebisu Bar is surrounded by government agency office blocks, and it’s absolutely heaving most nights. A glass of the eponymous brew goes for ¥580, but most people get the ¥2,500 all-you-can-drink deal and order up a dinky plastic keg that dispenses beer right at the table. Mon-Fri, 5-11pm. Until late Sept. 2F Kasumigaseki Common Gate, 3-2-3 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Hanzomon Station (Ginza line)
Seiyoken
There’s nothing novel about the food or libations on offer here – it’s more about the setting. Seiyoken has been staking out its spot in Ueno Park since the 1870s, and the rooftop beer garden enjoys panoramic views of the area. Best visited
Best beer gardens
The gourmet option Hibiya Saroh
Japan’s oldest garden restaurant also boasts the best beer selection out of any open-air venue we’ve found in Tokyo. On a recent visit, we ended up drinking Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel (¥1,090) and Toshi’s IPA (¥990), which made a welcome change from Kirin and Super Dry. The schizophrenic food menu – fish & chips, Vietnamese spring rolls and curry rice, anyone? – didn’t really tempt us so much. Daily, from 11.30am (closing time varies). Year-round. 1-1 Hibiya Koen, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo (03 3591 2411). Transport: Hibiya Station (Hibiya, Mita lines)
Oak Door
This is how a beer garden should be done, though it comes with a suitably high price tag attached. On the patio outside the Grand Hyatt’s signature steak restaurant, ¥6,500 gets you as much as you like from a vaguely Tex-Mex menu including chicken wings, chorizo, guacamole and marinated squid, washed down with free-flowing Asahi Super Dry and organic wine. The French Kitchen has a tempting ¥5,000 summer terrace deal including barbecued grub and all-you-can-drink sparkling wine, but that’s not the same as beer, is it? Daily, 6-10pm. Until Sept 30. 6F Grand Hyatt Hotel, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo (03 4333 8784). Transport: Roppongi Station (Hibiya, Oedo lines) early in the evening, when it’s still actually light enough to see anything. Beers cost ¥700, and there’s a ¥2,400 all-you-candrink deal. Daily, 5-9pm (July/Aug, 4-9pm). Until Sept 25. 4-58 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku, Tokyo (03 3821 2181). Transport: Ueno Station (Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku, Keisei, Ginza, Hibiya lines)
Waterline
TY Harbor Brewery’s floating bar sways from side to side when a boat goes past, though you might just feel like you’ve had a few too many. It’s a spot that’s positively made for summer, and the craft beer
brewed on site costs just ¥500 a glass during the 5-8pm weekday happy hour (¥800 at other times). The food is on the pricey side, and not always piping hot – they have to bring it over from the kitchen on the shore side, after all. Daily, 5.30pm1am (Sun, 5.30-11.30pm). Year- round. 2-1 Higashi-Shinagawa, Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo (03 5479 1666). Transport: Tennozu Isle Station (Tokyo Monorail, Rinkai line)
Kagurazaka Beer Garden
As if having the plummiest terrace in the area wasn’t enough, Kagurazaka Stagione has opened a beer garden up on the roof. Beer and spumanti goes for ¥650 a glass, and the menu includes ¥1,000 antipasti plates and the restaurant’s trademark Napolitan pizzas (from ¥1,700). There’s only space for 20 people, so reservations are pretty much essential. Mon-Fri, 5.3011pm; Sat-Sun and nat. hols, 5-11pm. Until Sept. 5F, 3-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjukuku, Tokyo (03 6457 5330). Transport: Iidabashi Station (Sobu, Namboku, Tozai, Yurakucho, Oedo lines)
Franziskaner Bar & Grill
There aren’t many gardens or outdoor bars where you can order beer by the litre, but that’s the attraction here, albeit at prices starting from ¥2,300. The classiest of Franziskaner’s Tokyo shops has a spacious patio, superior German grub and a very strong selection of beery suds, which just about compensates for the background hum of traffic and TV screen jingles emanating from inside Roppongi Hills. Daily, 11am-2am. Year-round. 1F Metro Hat/Hollywood Plaza, Roppongi Hills, 6-4-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo (03 5786 6867). Transport: Roppongi Station (Hibiya, Oedo lines)
Restaurant Luke
You won’t find a higher beer garden in Tokyo city. Restaurant Luke’s open-air terrace towers 221 metres above sea level, and enjoys spectacular views. The ¥4,500 ‘beer terrace course’ includes an amuse-bouche, starter, pasta, entre and dessert, and drinks are ordered separately (beers ¥700). Lofty perches come with lofty prices. Mon-Fri, 6-10pm. Until Sept 30. 47F St Luke’s Garden, 8-1 Akashicho, Chuo-ku, Tokyo (03 3248 0211). Transport: Tsukiji Station (Hibiya line)
Seiyoken
Waterline Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 5
Best beer gardens
347 Cafe
A break from the norm Tokyo Bay Noryosen
Trust us: you haven’t lived until you’ve got drunk in a yukata on a pleasure boat wending its way around Tokyo Bay. The ¥2,500 fee includes all the booze you can drink, and there’s a ¥1,000 discount Monday-Thursday if you come in a yukata. Both one of the tackiest and most dumbly enjoyable things you could do all summer. Daily, 7.15pm departure. Until Sept 25. Departs from Takeshiba area, Minatoku, Tokyo (03 3437 6119). Transport: Takeshiba Station (Yurikamome line)
Marunouchi House
The Shin-Marunouchi Building felt startlingly modern when it first opened a few years ago, and it’s retained its appeal thanks to cosmopolitan touches like this. The bars and restaurants in the 7th floor Marunouchi House zone have dedicated areas for customers, but many prefer to grab a drink and head outside to the expansive terrace, where you can have a gander at the area’s latest construction projects. Free wi-fi, too, which is always a bonus. Daily, 11am-11pm. Year-round. 1-56 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo (03 3403 0212). Transport: Tokyo Station (Tokaido, Chuo, Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku lines)
Shokuyasu Shoten
The lack of such niceties as tables, chairs and toilets hasn’t stopped this from becoming a popular spot for Yurakucho’s office workers. After all, it’s home to that most endangered of urban species: the beer vending machine. A 500ml can of Asahi Super Dry will cost you ¥320, but why not get a bottle of wine (¥1,200) instead? Good views of Bic Camera and the JR line. Daily, 24 hours. Year-round. 2-4-3 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Yurakucho Station (Yamanote, Keihin-Tohoku, Yurakucho lines)
Shinjuku Asia Yokocho
This Kabukicho Mecca for fans of street food from the Asian backpacker circuit only
just qualifies as a beer garden, by virtue of a few sections that are exposed to the elements. You can order from any of the assembled restaurants, regardless of where you sit, and the beers are affordably priced, starting at around ¥500. Tue-Thu, 5pm-12 midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm-5am; Sun, 4pm-12 midnight. Year-round. Rooftop of Dai 2 Towa Kaikan, 1-21-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo (03 3352 2370). Transport: Shinjuku Station (Yamanote, Chuo, Shonan-Shinjuku, Odakyu, Keio, Marunouchi lines)
347 Cafe
What do you look for in a good beer garden? If you answered ‘a swimming pool’, this might not have been the article for you. 347 Cafe is a honeytrap for amorous couples, and perhaps the thrill of true love helps them overlook the indifferent drinks and worn decor. Still, the 5-7pm happy hour is undeniably good value, when most drinks are knocked down to ¥500 and glasses of Moet go for ¥1,000. Daily, 11.30am-11pm. Year-round. 3F Cocoti, 1-23-16 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (03 5766 3798). Transport: Shibuya Station (Fukutoshin line)
Festival guide
FES UP! From the trad to the mad, Japan’s summer festival season has something for everyone The Glastonbury of Japan!
Fuji Rock Festival The undisputed daddy of Japan’s summer music festivals is held in a verdant mountain valley in Niigata, approximately one hour and 15 minutes from Tokyo by shinkansen (and nowhere near the mountain from which it takes its name). Prepare for sun, wind and thunderous downpours, often all within the space of a few hours.
10 acts worth a peep
Arctic Monkeys, Battles, Coldplay, Deerhoof, The Faces, Buddy Guy, Tokyo Ska Paradise Orchestra, Tinariwen, Wilco, Yellow Magic Orchestra 8 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
The verdict
This year’s lineup is equal parts quixotic and conservative, combining bands who’ve appeared at Fuji a squillion times before (The Chemical Brothers, Asian Dub Foundation, Mogwai) with some bizarre choices (The Faces headlining on Saturday night? Really?). Variety is its main strength, although you’ll have to do a lot of schlepping around if you want to get the most out of the event.
Essential info
Fuji Rock Festival, July 29-31. ¥16,800¥39,800. Naeba Ski Resort, Yuzawa, Niigata Prefecture (www.fujirockfestival. com). Transport: JR Echigo Yuzawa Station (Joetsu Shinkansen)
Japanese artists only!
Rock In Japan Festival The future of Japan’s largest outdoor
music event hung briefly in the balance after the March 11 quake and tsunami: the festival site is right on the coast of Ibaraki Prefecture. Organised by the folks behind Rockin’ On magazine, Rock in Japan features exclusively domestic artists – generally the same ones who played last year, and the year before that.
10 acts worth a peep
Asian Kung-Fu Generation, Brahman, Capsule, Dragon Ash, 9mm Parabellum Bullet, Okamoto’s, Perfume, Polysics, Rip Slyme, Soil & “Pimp” Sessions
The verdict
70 percent of the acts announced so far also appeared at 2010’s event, making
Festival guide
The Verdict
A solid if scattershot selection this year. The festival does a better job than Fuji Rock at keeping abreast of current trends, but you’ll need to get there early to catch many of the hipper bands. Dance music fans might be tempted to skip it and hit the Sonicmania party featuring Underworld and Primal Scream on Friday night instead.
Essential Info
Yellow Magic Orchestra Kimonos, Kotringo, Okamoto’s, Sakanaction, Shinsei Kamattechan, Towa Tei, Yellow Magic Orchestra, Yuki
The verdict
An eminently tasteful selection of domestic acts, although it’s probably not worth applying unless you’re a YMO fan.
Essential info
World Happiness 2011, August 7. Tickets ¥8,500. Yumenoshima Park, Koto-ku, Tokyo (www.world-happiness.com). Transport: Shin-Kiba Station (Yurakucho, Keiyo, Rinkai lines)
Summer Sonic The urban alternative to Fuji Rock makes Fuji Rock Festival this the most predictable fest on the circuit by a long mile. Not that this stops it from selling out every year, of course. Fans of mainstream Japanese rock won’t need any excuse to go, but it’s also worth noting that the food is a cut above what you’d expect, and the event is both cleaner and more relaxed than Summer Sonic or even Fuji Rock.
up in convenience for what it lacks in atmosphere: there are few settings less rock’n’roll than a baseball stadium and conference centre. Still, if you’d rather leave your wellies at home and sleep in your own bed at the end of the day, this might be the one for you.
10 acts worth a peep
Beady Eye, Bootsy Collins, Friendly Fires, Avril Lavigne, Odd Future, Public Image Limited, Red Hot Chili Peppers, The Strokes, Suede, X Japan
Summer Sonic, August 13-14. Tickets from ¥15,000-¥27,000. Makuhari Messe & QVC Marine Field, Chiba Prefecture (www. summersonic.com). Transport: Kaihin Makuhari station (Keiyo line)
Metamorphose Started by Tokyo clubland veteran DJ
Mayuri, this techno-centric festival is actually a lot more eclectic than its reputation would suggest – the only consistent complaint is how long it takes to get from one stage to the other. Oh, and it’s par for the course to bring a tent. Trust us: at 7am, you’ll be grateful for it.
10 acts worth a peep
Karl Bartos, Ebo Taylor, Tim Deluxe, Dub Squad, The Flaming Lips, Gold Panda, Leftfield, Derrick May, Orbital, Nisennenmondai, Stevie Salas
The verdict
It’s all about the curveballs, and Metamorphose has done well so far with bands like The Flaming Lips, Nisennenmondai and Afrobeat legend Ebo Taylor. Meanwhile, Leftfield, Tim Deluxe and Derrick May offer some comfort to the dance music faithful.
Essential info
Metamorphose 2011, September 3. ¥12,500. Cycle Sports Center, Izu, Shizuoka Prefecture (www.metamo.info). Transport: Shuzenji Station (Izuhakone line, via Mishima, Tokaido Shinkansen)
Essential info
Rock in Japan Festival 2011, August 5-7. ¥11,500-¥30,000. Hitaichi Seaside Park, Ibaraki Prefecture (www.rijfes.jp). Transport: Katsuta Station (Joban line)
The only fest in Tokyo!
World Happiness It’s the only major summer music festival
that actually happens within Tokyo, at a park right next to Shin-Kiba Station. Coorganised by YMO’s Yukihiro Takahashi, World Happiness is a family-friendly affair, with a decent kids area and special tickets for parents accompanying elementary school age children.
10 acts worth a peep
The Beatniks, Fennesz + Sakamoto,
The Flaming Lips Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 9
Festival guide
The best of the rest July Shinbashi Koichi Festival
The highlight of this festival is a yukata (light kimono) beauty contest, in which participants are judged on their ability to dress in said garment, withstand the pressure of a public interview, and ‘look good in a yukata’. The winner stands to walk away with ¥200,000 and a 4-night trip to Hawaii – a prize worth winning, when all’s said and done. Shinbashi Koichi Festival. Midday-9pm, July 21-22. Shinbashi SL Square, Shinbashi, Chuoku, Tokyo. Transport: Shinbashi Station (Keihin-Tohoku, Yamanote, Ginza lines)
Picture by MJ/TR (´･ω･)/Flickr
Shinjuku Eisa Festival
10 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
Shinbashi Koichi Festival
Eisa is a form of Okinawan dance usually performed to mark the end of the Obon period. Over 20 eisa dance troops will take to the streets around Shinjuku Station to beat portable taiko drums and twirl their way through the crowds. Slap on the sun cream, grab yourself a handheld fan and get there early. It’s guaranteed to be crowded. Shinjuku Eisa Festival. 1.30pm7pm, July 30. East exit, Shinjuku Station,
Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Shinjuku Station (Yamanote, Chuo, Keio, Odakyu, Sobu, Shonan-Shinjuku, Saikyo lines)
Noche Verano Del Flamenco
The grande dame of Japan’s flamenco scene, Yoko Komatsubara has been holding her midsummer dance festival for over 40 years now. It offers Tokyoites a rare opportunity to see flamenco performed on a grand scale, and this year’s boasts a particularly strong lineup that includes Cristina Hoyos, Manolo Marín and Antonio Canales. Naturally, Komatsubara’s company will also be performing. Noche Verano Del Flamenco. 6pm, July 30-31. Tickets from ¥3,000. Hibiya Open Air Concert Hall, 1-5 Hibiya Koen, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo (03 3591 6388). Transport: Kasumigaseki Station (Chiyoda, Hibiya, Marunouchi lines)
August Fussa Tanabata Festival
Tanabata is a festival that celebrates the star-crossed lovers Orihime and Hikoboshi, and you’ll find one of Tokyo’s longest running incarnations scattered across the streets of Fussa, a town to the west of Tokyo central, featuring a ‘Princess Orihime contest’, folk dancing, a ninja performance and the usual festival
Noche Verano Flamenco gorging. Fussa Tanabata Festival. 3pm9pm (approx), August 4-7. West exit, Fussa Station, Fussa, Tokyo. Transport: Fussa Station (Ome line)
Himalayan Festival
Expect a mishmash of Nepalese food, culture, arts and crafts and performances at this year’s Himalayan Festival, which
takes over the fountain area of Hibiya Park in early August. If you’re not sure what Nepalese food is, allow us to recommend the momos – a kind of curried, boiled gyoza with a dangerously high addiction level. Himalayan Festival. 10am-6pm (until 5pm on Sun), August 6-7. Hibiya Park, 1-6 Hibiya Koen, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Hibiya Station (Marunouchi, Chiyoda lines)
Live the Time Out life… Time Out Café & Diner Located a stone’s throw from Ebisu Station, Time Out Café & Diner is one of the city’s hippest pitstops. Housed in the same building as the ever-trendy Liquidroom live venue, the café serves good, solid grub (the burger is a treat in itself) with a well-stocked bar to help wash it all down. With free Wi-Fi internet and ample stocks of Time Out magazines and guidebooks from around the world, it’s the perfect place to spend a relaxing moment and make plans for your next big step. Time Out Café & Diner. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11.30pm, Sat 1pm-11.30pm, Sun & hol 1pm-10pm. Liquidroom 2F, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo (03 5774 0440, www.timeoutcafe.jp)
Free coffee here!
Visitors carrying this magazine are entitled to a free cup of coffee. One magazine equals one cup each for two readers. No refills, though. Sorry!*
*This offer is only in conjunction with the Time Out Tokyo Outdoors Now! guide This is not in conjunction with the Time Out City Guide or the Time Out Shortlist publications
Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 11
Festival guide
Freedomune Zero
Dommune, the dinky studio in Shibuyaku run where big-name DJs play to an audience of 50 people while thousands watch live online, is scaling things up this summer with a free outdoor event that will have space for 10,000 people. Detroit techno bigwig Jeff Mills and synthpop godfather Isao Tomita are among the international and domestic artists performing. Freedomune Zero. August 19. Higashi Ohshima East Park, Kawasaki, Kanagawa. See www.dommune.com/ freedommunezero for further details
Super Yosakoi
The final weekend of August is a good time for dancing in the streets, with major festivals occurring in Koenji and Harajuku. The original yosakoi dance started life in Kochi in 1954, where it was intended to help revitalise the struggling post-war economy, and Tokyo’s own Super Yosakoi festival has been going for just over a decade now. Nearly a hundred teams of brightly attired dancers try to outdo each other as they strut their stuff to the rhythm of the naruko, a type of clapper that the people of Kochi used to scare birds away from their fields. Super Yosakoi 2011. August 27-28. Omotesando, Meiji Shrine, Yoyogi Park (www.yosakoiharajuku.com). Transport: Meiji-Jingumae Station (Chiyoda, Fukutoshin lines)
Jiman-ichi
This one’s for foodies and artsies alike. The Jiman-ichi festival, now into its fourth year, brings together culinary and craft specialities from across the country, meaning you get the chance to try shimanto udon from Kochi, shirasudon from Kanagawa, and even Okinawan noodles, all without having to travel any further than Harajuku. Worth noting that it takes place alongside the above Super Yosakoi, making this a weekend of Japanese tradition not to be missed.
Super Yosakoi Jiman-ichi food festival. August 27-28. Yoyogi Park, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Harajuku Station (Yamanote line)
Sumida River Fireworks Festival
Japan’s oldest recorded fireworks festival dates back to 1733, when it was staged as part of a ceremony to pray for victims of a famine the previous year. These historical associations may explain why, although the Edogawa, Itabashi and Tamagawa fireworks displays were all cancelled in the wake of March 11, this will be going ahead (albeit a month later than usual). A whopping 20,000 fireworks are deployed in the course of the display, and it regularly draws nearly a million visitors, possibly even more this year. Sumida River Fireworks Festival. 7pm, August 27. Sumida River, around Asakusa and Ryogoku, Taito-ku, Tokyo (www.sumidagawa-hanabi.com).
Transport: Asakusa Station (Asakusa, Ginza lines)
Koenji Awaodori
12,000 dancers pile out onto the streets of Koenji over the two days of the annual Awaodori, making it one of the biggest festivals of the year in Tokyo – and one with crowds to match. This year will be a little different from usual, in that the dancing has been rescheduled to take place during the afternoon. Should be a sweaty one, then. Koenji Awaodori. 3pm-6pm, August 27-28. Koenji, Suginamiku, Tokyo (www.koenji-awaodori.com). Transport: Koenji Station (Sobu line)
September Taito International Comedy Film Festival
Taito-ku is recognised as a kind of Mecca for Tokyo comedy, and last year’s chucklesome lineup included talks from anime voiceover artists, as well as a varied film schedule that included Hollywood pap alongside slightly more impressive fare. Old Town Taito International Comedy Film Festival. September 16-19. Venues across Ueno and Asakusa (www.shitacome.jp)
Neutralnation
Koenji Awadori 12 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
The organisers of Neutralnation claim to have no interest in prevailing trends or fashions. All lies, if you ask us: the first editions of this inner-city music fest have demonstrated impeccably good taste, pairing a lone international act (Prefuse 73 this year) with a selection of homegrown electronica, post-rock and alternative acts. Neutralnation 2011. From 11am, September 19. Tickets from ¥6,000. Odaiba Aomi Open Court, 2 Aomi, Koto-ku, Tokyo (www.neutralnation.net). Transport: Aomi Station (Yurikamome line)
Festival guide
Giant scallops
Eat to the beat Food worth finding at Japan’s festivals Japanese food is rightly celebrated, but festival grub here has a tendency to be hit or miss. Love it or hate it, here’s what you can expect to come across
Festival favourites… Kakigori
Essentially shaved ice with a technicolored syrup topping, kakigori is an eternal hit with Japanese kids. While other countries have very similar concoctions (think Slush Puppies or snow cones), only Japan does the deliciously bitter green tea flavour.
You can’t leave a festival without trying them. The apparently hirsute substance is actually fish flakes, and the balls conceal chewy chunks of octopus. Scalding hot to the tongue, they’re kind of like savoury, fishy donuts. Much better than they sound...
Yakisoba
Now you’re talking! The Japanese equivalent of a greasy fry-up, plastic cartons of freshly fried noodles cut with slices of ginger, pork and various other leftovers, are ubiquitous at street festivals. Hearty fare (in as much as it’ll quickly clog your heart), and delicious to boot.
Yakitori
Not to be confused with Tokyo Banana, which is more cake than cultivar, this childfriendly treat is exactly what you expect it to be – a banana covered in chocolate. The Japanese equivalent of toffee apples, only with a higher melt factor in the summer heat.
One of Japan’s more famous culinary contributions, also known to foreigners as ‘meat on sticks’, is a common sight on the street. Take your time to survey what’s on offer, though – the common festival experience is to grab the first sagari beef kebab you come across, only to find a far more succulent offering on a stall 100 metres up the road.
Takoyaki
Baby castella
Choco banana
Watch out for a tray of hairy-looking battered balls covered in mayonnaise.
Castella is a kind of milk sponge cake thought to have been introduced to Japan
by Portuguese traders in Nagasaki during the Edo era. You’ll find them freshly baked and universally loved at most festivals.
Ika-yaki
Not a million miles from yakitori and just as prevalent, this festival delicacy finds fresh squid painted in soy sauce, impaled on a wooden skewer and slow grilled over red coals. It sounds like a gruesome form of execution, but they couldn’t taste better. A guilty pleasure.
One-off treats... Mochi buta kushiyaki
Made from grilled pork so soft that it hardly seems like pork at all, these succulent kebabs should be more than enough to satisfy anyone looking for a light snack. Head to the Oasis area at Fuji Rock Festival and look for the long, snaking line. You’ll find a little piece of culinary heaven at the end of it. Made by Kinroku Eleven, Fuji Rock Festival
Giant scallops
Last time we got our drooling mouthes around one of these bad boys, we were struck speechless. A couple of male friends actually moaned in pleasure. Passersby wondered what on earth was going on. If you’re in the Harajuku area, you’d be daft to miss out. Giant scallops from Miyagi. Try them at the Jiman-ishi Festival, Harajuku
14 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
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Tokyo on the water
Tokyo on the water Ways to get wild’n’wet in Japan’s scorching capital Tokyo is a metropolis with a love of splashing about. Whether it’s a water park, a spot of surfing or an oxygen-free dive to depths of 80m you’re after, this metropolis has a water sport for you.
Take it to extremes…
In our experience, hitting the ocean in a kayak is an adventure hard to top, so we’ll leave it to the experts to think up a way. ‘We could spice it up a bit with fishing from the kayak,’ suggests Venture owner and founder Aaron Davis. ‘Or how about night kayaking with a seafood barbecue… or adding some river sledging or rafting at the base of Mt. Fuji?’ Obviously, we’ve come to the right man. Aaron’s company, previously known as Bashukway Travel, specialises in outdoor adventure. He’s been running the operation for 10 years, with five years’ experi16 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
ence as a group leader on top of that. ‘We design our expeditions around what our group leaders love to do. For most of us, the Izu peninsula offers an amazing amount of water-based fun, great for coasteering, ocean swimming, sea kayaking and windsurfing, all of which we offer.’ Is there anything watery that the company doesn’t offer? ‘Well, grade five rapids are hard to get insurance for as an operator… though we have, at least without clients, found places in the Nagano and Gunma areas to knock ourselves out!’ Knocking himself out seems like a regular requirement for Aaron. At Venture, a typical week will find him ‘swimming 1012 kilometres myself in a local river, lake or ocean. I’ll also do several kayaking trips with clients, and spend a day with a group of co-workers on a team building course that will mostly consist of water-based
challenges and activities to test their leadership.’ Quite the action man, then. Are there any activities that he finds difficult himself? ‘I have always had too much fun to think of activities like this as “too hard”,’ he tells us. “Ocean swimming in freezing water, like crossing from the North to South Island in New Zealand, is of course hard, but the mind and body are enjoying the challenge too much. It is the difficulty of it that creates the challenge.’ If you’re up for ‘the challenge’, click through to ventureea.com for further info
Tokyo on the water
You get game…
Do it like a dolphin…
Free diving is a formidable feat of endurance, and the great news is that anyone can get involved. Time Out Tokyo met up with Japan’s female free diving champion, Misuzu Hirai (‘Mimi’ to her fans), to find out just what it takes to plumb such depths. Can anyone get involved? You have to have the basic equipment – a wetsuit and a fin – but there isn’t an age limit, so basically it’s a sport in which anyone can get involved. We have free diving meets in pools, so even little kids can do it. What’s the deepest you’ve been as a free diver, either in an official meet or otherwise? My personal best is 80m. How long would you have to hold your breath to reach that kind of depth? The roundtrip is 160m, of course, so that means holding your breath for about three minutes. Don’t you get nervous? If I think about the dive calmy, I’m not afraid. But before a competition it can get pretty tense, and occasionally a bit nerve-wracking. You have to control it, and it’s possible to do that if you focus on the dive, keep calm, try and reduce your heart rate and oxygen consumption... Have you ever found yourself in a dangerous position during a free dive?
I once had trouble with the equipment. I escaped safely, but I was submerged and got stuck. It was about 52m down. You have to dive with a safety cable, but the cable got caught on my wrist. Cripes! Didn’t it put you off diving? No. I was OK. I figured the longer I put off diving after that, the scarier it’d become... so I just went down again and again to kind of counteract the feeling of terror. How do you teach someone to do all this? Where do you begin? A lot of beginners get nervous about holding their breath in the water, so it’s important to start by relaxing and then building up your strength. They should have the experience of floating in the water, and seeing how good it feels. After that they can start diving and descending in the ocean. Some finish by saying they can’t wait for their next lesson, and others say, ‘Well, OK, maybe another time...’ A fun and interesting dive will change their image of what free diving can be. Where do you most enjoy free diving around Tokyo and the Kanto region? For sports practice, I dive in Manazuru, Kanagawa Prefecture. For skin diving or snorkeling, I like Tateyama in Chiba Prefecture. Mimi offers three-hour free diving lessons for beginners for ¥15,000. More info can be found on her website: mimidive.com
I was 52m down and the cable got caught on my wrist…
Trout & King Fishing Tours have their office in downtown Ginza, but they specialise in worldwide game fishing trips for the discerning Japan-based angler. When they’re not chasing Wahoo around Christmas Island, however, they’ll put a boat out on Tokyo Bay especially for Tokyo dwellers and visitors, most of whom seem to return with photos of sizeable sea creatures held high like glistening trophies. English is one of this company’s specialities, as is the landing of Japanese sea bass (not a million miles away from a barramundi, or so we’re told). Charter boats are available from ¥36,500 (that’s per boat, not per person, for four hours), with tackle and other fishing necessities packaged up for a meagre ¥2,500. Best of all, they’re open 24 hours a day, meaning that you can hit the water whenever you like – before a sightseeing tour, after an eikaiwa class, in the midst of a stag party...you get the idea. Japanese sea bass fishing in Tokyo Bay can be booked at www.troutandking.com. English speakers are available
Sail away…
The Tokyo Sail & Power Squadron consists of approximately 100 shipmates, all sailing and powerboat enthusiasts that get together regularly to navigate the Kanto shoreline and beyond. Together, they regularly organise water-bound events and get-togethers, information for which can be found on their Facebook page. A recent voyage saw squadron members chart a 4-yacht course from the capital to Isejima and Wakayama, an exciting jaunt that took 10 days to complete. An upcoming event will find them sailing south to Velasis City Marina, Uraga, to watch the fireworks display from the water and light up a communal barbecue. If those distances sound a little extravagant for you, fear not. One of the services the TSPS specialises in is helping landlubbers to find their Japanese sea
Splashdown!
10 Tokyo water parks to help you keep your cool Edogawa Pool Garden
The phrase ‘cheap and cheerful’ was created for places like this. There aren’t many spots in Tokyo where you can swim outdoors for ¥500, and, coupled with easy access, it’s easy to see why it has become so popular. Until Sep 4. 8-17-1 Nishi-Kasai, Edogawaku, Tokyo (www.pool-garden.com). Transport: Nishi-Kasai Station (Tozai line)
Inage Kaihin Pool
13 separate outdoor pools house an abundance of watery attractions, including a wave pool, a water station (like a semi-submerged adventure playground) and a separate area for the kiddies to splash about in. July 16-Aug 31. 7-1-1 Takahama, Mihamaku, Chiba (www.cga.or.jp). Transport: InagiKaigan Station (Keiyo line)
Kawagoe Aquatic Park
It’s a little way out of town, but what’s a 40 minute journey when the destination boasts a 2m high wave pool? Other highlights include a big ship and water slides, but...did we mention the 2m high wave pool? Until Aug 31. 880 Oaza-ikenobe, Kawagoeshi, Saitama (049 241 2241). Transport: Nishi-Kawagoe Station (Kawagoe line)
Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 17
Tokyo on the water
Tokyo Sail & Power Squadron legs. Operating a power boat or yacht with an engine is illegal in Japan unless you have a boating license. The squadron runs courses that prepare would-be sailors for the licensing exams, and once you’ve got that under your belt, only the expense of sailing in this country has a chance of stopping you, though there are ways around that, too.
‘Marinas in the Tokyo Bay and Sagami Bay areas are fairly expensive, so running costs are typically higher than anywhere else,’ explains Captain Stuart Milne. ‘I keep my own yacht at Velasis, near Uraga, and from there I can sail out to the Izu Islands in seven or eight hours, Shimoda in 12 hours or Atami and Ito in eight hours.’ We wonder if Uraga is a similar option for
other squadron members. ‘Most of our members don’t have their own boats,’ he tells us. ‘All that is required is an interest in boating.’ If we didn’t have an interest before, we certainly do now. Becoming a TSPS member costs ¥10,000, or ¥12,000 for family membership. More information can be found on www. tspsjapan.org
Native Forest Pool
shade should the sun’s rays come on a bit strong. Mid July-Aug 31. Kinuta Park, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo (03 5432 2742). Transport: Bus from Seijogakuenmae Station (Odakyu line)
Until Sept 4. 3173 Midori-machi, Tachikawa-shi, Tokyo (042 528 1751). Transport: Nishi-Tachikawa Station (Ome line)
Water slides, whirlpools, paddling pools and 50m competition pools – they’ve got it all going on at the Native Forest park out in Fuchu. Until Aug 31. 5-5 Yasaki-cho, Fuchu, Tokyo (042 363 8111). Transport: Fuchu-Honmachi Station (Musashino line)
Ookura Pool
Otherwise known as ‘the pool in Kinuta Park’, this facility also benefits from one key natural feature: the trees from the surrounding parkland provide essential
18 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
Rainbow Pool
Rainbow Pool houses nine different kinds of pool as well as an impressive selection of water slides and wave machines – an attractive proposition for boisterous teenagers and overgrown kids alike.
Seibuen Yuenchi Pool
The outdoor pool covers a large area and features four tubular water slides, a wave machine and plenty of shallow splashing. Until Sept 4. Yamaguchi, Tokorozawa, Saitama (www.seibuen-yuuenchi. jp). Transport: Yuenchi-Nishi Station (Yamaguchi line)
Tokyo on the water
For many Tokyoites, surfing is synonymous with just one place: Shonan. The coastal area in Kanagawa Prefecture is generally regarded as the birthplace of Japanese surf culture, and it teems with boarders during the summer months – never mind that the swell is often pretty pathetic. Local schools include Easy Surf in Shichirigahama (beginner classes ¥5,000; private lessons ¥15,000), and Shonan Surfin School, which has shops in Chigasaki, Tsujido and Kugenuma (beginner classes ¥5,000; stand up paddle surfing ¥8,500; private lessons ¥18,000). If you’re looking for some serious waves, though, the east coast of Chiba is a better bet, where there’s no shelter from the full force of the Pacific Ocean. Eugene Teal in Onjuku offers English-language lessons by a Japan longboard champion, and there’s also the option of staying overnight in the clubhouse (2-hour lesson ¥8,000; overnight stay ¥2,000). A little further up the coast, Oasis Surf School in Ichinomiya also does English lessons (beginner classes ¥5,250; intermediate shortboard/ longboard classes ¥10,000; English surfing classes ¥6,300). You can find sweet waves within Tokyo itself, of course, though only on a technicality. Hachijojima, Niijima and Oshima – part of a chain of islands that stretches from the tip of the Izu peninsula, and which is
Swim in the sky...
After taking last year off, Roppongi Hills’ popular Sky Aquarium returns this summer to offer the discombobulating experience of ogling at fishes while raised 250 metres above sea level. The theme this year is ‘Cool Entertainment’, and the displays incorporate some state-of-theart visual tricks, using projection mapping to transform fish tanks into seasonal landscapes and nifty effects to make visitors feel like they’re submerged in water. Sky Aquarium 2011. 11am-10pm (Fri-Sat & nat. hols until 11pm), July 15-Sept 25. General admission ¥2,000. 52F administered by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government – are popular destinations for intrepid surfers. The breaks off the southern tip of Hachijojima have some particularly good and consistent swells, although they’re not for timorous types, and you’ll need to bring your own gear with you.
Wakey wakey…
While wakeboarding in Tokyo may not be the popular activity it is abroad, there are still a handful of enthusiasts who take to the water around Odaiba and Haneda, as well as less industrial waters further down the coast. One such group operates out
Mori Tower, Roppongi Hills, 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Transport: Roppongi Station (Hibiya, Oedo lines)
Sa ‘Time Ou y t Tok and get yo’
¥300 off * ! *Up to 5 people. Not for use with other discount coupons. Valid between July 15 and Sept 25
Hit the surf…
of Kachidoki Marina in Chuo-ku, offering the chance to get out on the water from ¥7,500 per session (including equipment rental). Morning sessions last 30 minutes, while afternoon sessions are offered as a set of two 15-minute runs. All you need to bring is your swimming costume and your towel. Note that kids aged 10 and over will need to be accompanied by an adult, or have permission from their parents to take part. A wakeboarding session costs from ¥4,000, though the price rises with board rental. For further information, see www. kachidoki-marina.com
Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 19
Tokyo on the water
Wind your way across Sagami Bay
Photo by JoséMa Orsini/ Flickr
Windsurfing Kaya operates out of a small house about 50 metres from Zushi Kaigan beach, and if you were to head straight out of their door, down the road, onto your board, and then plot a course straight across the water, you’d come fairly close to bumping Mt. Fuji straight on the nose. Kaya provides all the equipment you might need to make the plan a reality (though sailing straight across Sagami Bay may take it out of you a bit), as well as friendly schooling for firsttimers. They’ve also got a selection of surfboards and bodyboards for anyone that doesn’t do well with the wind behind them. A day of surfing, equipment included, costs from ¥7,350. For booking information, see www.kayawind.com
Tokyo Summerland
The indoor pool here is notorious, though the outdoor one is more bearable, with 650 metres of flowing water as its star attraction. 600 Kamiyotsugi, Akiruno-shi, Tokyo (www.summerland. co.jp). Transport: Akigawa Station (Itsukaichi line)
Hydropolis
Toshimaen’s water park includes a surf pool, lazy river, wave pools and olympic pool for more determined swimmers.
20 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
Until Sept 30. 3-25-1 Koyama, Nerima, Tokyo (www.toshimaen.co.jp). Transport: Toshimaen Station (Oedo line)
Pool at Yomiuri Land
During the summer, Yomiuri Land opens its pool to Tokyo’s wet’n’wild thrill seekers. The Giant Sky River is the highlight: nearly 25m tall, running for 386m, navigable with a large rubber ring. Until Sept 11. 4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi, Tokyo (www.yomiuriland.co.jp). Transport: Yomiruilandmae Station (Odakyu line)
Getting around
Getting Around Arriving & leaving By air
Two airports serve Tokyo. Most overseas flights arrive at Narita International Airport, which is nearly 70 kilometres from Tokyo and well served by rail and bus links to the city. Haneda International Airport, closer to the city and to the south, handles mainly internal flights, though has recently started ramping up its international routes. Narita International Airport Flight information 0476 34 5000, www.narita-airport.jp/en The Narita Express train (050 2016 1603, www.jreast.co.jp/e/nex), run by Japan Railways (JR), is the easiest way to get into Tokyo from Narita, but it’s also the most expensive. All trains go to Tokyo Station (¥2,940), with some also serving Shinjuku (¥3,110), Ikebukuro (¥3,110), Omiya (¥3,740) and Yokohama (¥4,180). Trains depart every 30 to 40 minutes, and seats can be reserved up to a month in advance. The Keisei Skyliner (Narita 0476 32 8505, Ueno 3831 0989, www.keisei.co.jp/keisei/ tetudou/ keisei_us/top.html), operated by a private rail company, is the fastest option. Trains on this line will take you 22 Time Out Tokyo Summer/Autumn 2011
into Ueno or Nippori Station (¥2,400) in as little as 36 minutes. Even cheaper is a Keisei limited express (tokkyu), a regular train that makes a few stops on its 75-minute route to Ueno Station (¥1,000). Limousine buses (03 3665 7220, www.limousinebus.co.jp) also run regularly to various key points and certain hotels in the city. There are ticket counters inside the arrivals halls near the exits of terminals 1 and 2; buses depart from just outside. Fares are ¥3,000. Taxis are recommended only for those with bottomless wallets: they cost from ¥30,000 and are often slower than the train. Haneda International Airport Flight information 03 5757 8111, www.tokyo-airport-bldg. co.jp. Haneda is served by the Tokyo Monorail (www.tokyo-monorail.co.jp), which leaves every five to ten minutes from 5.11am to 12.05am, linking up to Hamamatsucho station (¥470) on the Yamanote line in little over 20 minutes. The Keikyu line (03 5789 8686, www. keikyu.co.jp) can take you to Shinagawa, also on the Yamanote line, in 19 minutes (¥400). From here you can link up with major JR lines. Limousine buses to central Tokyo cost in the region of ¥1,000, depending on which part of the city you want to go to. Taxis start from ¥6,000.
Tokyo public transport
Tokyo has one of the most efficient train and subway systems in the world: in the rare event of delays in the morning rush, staff give out apology slips for workers to show their bosses. Services are fast, clean, reliable and remarkably easy to use. Almost all stations have signs in English and signs telling you which exit to take. Subways and train lines are colour-coded. Subways and trains operate from 5am to around midnight (JR lines slightly later). Rush hours are roughly 7.309.30am and 5-7pm; the last train of the day can be extremely uncomfortable. Tokyo’s rail network is run by several different companies, but a Pasmo or Suica magnetic rail pass (see below) gives access to almost all routes. The userfriendly Hyperdia website (www.hyperdia. com/en/) is in English. You can type in your starting point and destination to get routes, times and prices. JR trains Overland trains in Tokyo are operated by Japan Railways East (050 2016 1603, www.jreast.co.jp/e). Their Yamanote line is the loop that defines the city centre – all other subway and rail lines link to it. JR’s other major lines in Tokyo are: Chuo (orange), Sobu (yellow), Saikyo (turquoise)
Getting around and Keihin-Tohoku (blue). Because of Japan’s notoriety for gropers, several lines offer women-only cars during peak hours. Subways There are 13 subway lines in Tokyo. Most are run by Tokyo Metro (03 3941 2004, 9am-9pm daily, www.tokyometro.jp/e), formerly the Teito Rapid Transit Authority (Eidan). Its colour-coded lines are: Chiyoda (dark green), Fukutoshin (brown), Ginza (orange), Hanzomon (purple), Hibiya (grey), Marunouchi (red), Nanboku (light green), Tozai (turquoise) and Yurakucho (yellow). Four slightly pricier subway lines are run by the metropolitan government, Toei (03 3816 5700, 9am-7pm daily, www. kotsu.metro. tokyo.jp). They are: Asakusa (pale pink), Mita (blue), Oedo (bright pink) and Shinjuku (green). If transferring from Tokyo Metro to Toei trains, buying a transfer ticket is ¥70 cheaper than buying separate tickets. Private train lines Tokyo’s private railway lines mainly ferry commuters to the outlying districts of the city. Most were founded by companies that also run department stores, so they usually terminate inside, or next to, one of the branches. You can pick up a full map showing all lines and subways from the airport information counter on arrival. Several lines offer women-only cars during peak hours: look for the pink window stickers (or the hundreds of grinning faces in the train if you’ve entered by mistake). Tokyo’s major private lines are: Keio www.keio.co.jp Keisei www.keisei.co.jp Keikyu www.keikyu.co.jp Odakyu www.odakyu.jp Seibu www.seibu-group.co.jp/railways Tobu www.tobuland.com Tokyu www.tokyu.co.jp
be covered by the price of your ticket. If your journey involves transferring from one network to another, you will have to buy a transfer ticket (if available) or buy another ticket at the transfer point. If you’re in town for any length of time, buy a travel pass. Pasmo/Suica The Pasmo card launched in spring 2007 as the first travel card to cover buses, trains and the metro network. Containing an IC chip, the cards are swiped over screens at the ticket gate, where the minimum fare is automatically deducted, with the balance being picked up on exit at your destination. The cards can be purchased at JR ‘Green Window’ areas or at ticket machines in train or subway stations. Credits can be added at most ticket machines. The Suica card, once exclusively for JR lines, now functions identically to Pasmo cards. JR Passes If you’ve bought a Japan Rail Pass (www. japanrailpass.net), you can exchange it at JR offices at both Narita and Haneda airports, as well as Tokyo, Shinagawa, Ueno, Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ikebukuro and Yokohama stations. Note that you’ll need to present your passport.
Buses
Like the trains, buses in Tokyo are run by several companies. Travel by bus can be confusing if you’re new to Japan, as signs are rarely in English. Toei and Keio bus fares cost ¥200, other buses are ¥210 (half-price for kids) – no matter what the distance. Get on the bus at the front and off at the back. If you aren’t using a Pasmo card, drop the exact fare
into the slot in front of the driver. If you don’t have it, a change machine, usually to the right, will deduct your fare from the money. Fare machines accept ¥50, ¥100 and ¥500 coins and ¥1,000 notes. Stops are usually announced by a pre-recorded voice. A Toei bus route guide in English is available at Toei subway stations and hotels.
Cycling
The bicycle remains the most common form of local transport in Tokyo, and therefore the most commonly stolen form of transport, so get a strong lock. Areas in and around stations are usually no-parking zones for bikes, a rule that locals gleefully ignore, but which can result in your bike being impounded. Some hotels will loan bicycles to guests.
Driving
If you rent a car, expect to pay astronomical parking fees (usually around ¥100 for 30 minutes, more in the centre). If you do decide to hire a car, you’ll need an international driving licence backed up by at least six months’ driving experience. English-speaking rental assistance is available at many of the large hotels as well as at the airport. The Japan Automobile Federation (www. jaf.or.jp) publishes a ‘Rules of the Road’ guide (¥1,000) in English. Request one from their Shiba branch office (2-2-17 Shiba, Minato-ku. 03 6833 9100). A Metropolitan Expressway map in English is available from the Metropolitan Expressway Public Corporation (www.shutoko.jp). If you want to drive outside the capital (which is definitely a much safer option), JR offers rail and car rental packages. Call JR East for details. •
Tickets & passes
Standard tickets Single tickets for adults (under-12s pay half-price, under-6s travel free) are available at automatic ticket machines at any station. Touch-screen ticket machines can display information in English, but should you be unsure of the fare, buy the cheapest ticket and settle up at a fare adjustment machine (or window) at your destination. These machines, usually bright yellow, are found just before the exit barriers of all stations. Travellers with incorrect tickets do not have to pay punitive fines. Transferring from one line to another, provided it is run by the same operator, will Summer/Autumn 2011 Time Out Tokyo 23
Travel essentials
24 Time Out Tokyo  Summer/Autumn 2011
｜Cooperation｜Aqua Projects, Anonimo Design, AirAroma Japan, EPSON, MMC Planning Red Sea division, EL PRODUCE, KAMIHATA, Color Kinetics Japan, KYORIN,
International Nishikigoi Center, Sound International, SUISAKU, Tokyo Communication Arts School, Dr.Three, JAPAN PET DRUGS Co. Ltd. Bicom, ParadiseJam inc, YAMAHA