Go North, my friends Winter weather might discourage some people from tourng the country but it didn’t deter HELEN PERRRY even when she encountered torrential rain, flooding and slips on a recent Northland escape.
The last time I stayed in Paihia it was abuzz with summer activity. It was a much quieter Paihia on my recent visit but, as ever, the stunning outlook couldn’t be faulted, its beauty matched only by the Hokianga Harbour where we spent two nights ahead of arriving in the Bay of Islands for a couple of nights.
the bathroom was dated and TV channels very limited.
We left early on a Friday morning making our way up to Omapere via Dargaville where we stopped for lunch at a small café, Kauta – the seafood chowder and bacon and egg quiche were excellent (real seafood in the chowder and plenty of it).
Having settled in we met our travelling companions in the bar/ dining room. It was part of the original timber villa and simply oozing character. I loved the ambience although it was a bit strange there was no dedicated lounge area with couches or armchairs. Instead, ahead of dinner, we sat perched on stools at high-top tables…age must be catching up with me!.
Though not particularly heavy, the rain had started so we decided to push on and not stop to view that magnificent kauri, Tane Mahuta in the Waipoua Forest, having done so in the distant past. Our journey north took us through some beautiful countryside and, of course, scenic native forests but by time we arrived at the beachfront Copthorne Hotel in Omapere, rain was falling steadily. Our accommodation – one of the older rooms at the rear of the property – was clean and the bed exceptionally comfortable but
14 | south | october 2020
On hindsight, perhaps I should have asked about the motel units facing the sea or even the new, and said to be luxurious, villas, but I wasn’t about to grumble; our $110 a night stay, inclusive of breakfast was A-Okay.
On the other hand, the uninterrupted harbour view was to die for, the shoreline just a few strides across the lawn and beyond the swimming pool. Finally, ignoring the deteriorating weather, we were ready for dinner. The above average menu promised much and though the meals were nice enough, I thought prices were high especially my bottle of Wyndham
Shiraz, usually around $11 in the supermarket but $58 at the Copthorne….mmmmm! By time we made our way to bed the rain was pelting down but I drifted pleasantly off to sleep listening to it beating on the tin roof; I had the soundest night’s sleep in a long time. The next day dawned bright and fairly clear. The water, as they say, was like a millpond. After a ‘from the menu’ breakfast we drove to Opononi to check out the ‘new hotel’. The last one burnt down in 1959 and as I was given to understand this is the third such establishment on the site even though it looked as if it had been there for 100 years! Another character-laden property (the gaming room was a house within a house), it too enjoyed a spectacular sea view. Friendly staff told us they lived in paradise and quickly convinced us to dine there that night. On sitting down to bangers and mash we enjoyed hearty, wholesome food. But, prior to that, we made our way to nearby Rawene for coffee and cake among other goodies at The Boatshed Café perched on
pylons above the water. This charming town, the third oldest European settlement in NZ, retains many historic buildings which deserved more attention that we were able to give on this trip. We didn’t manage to take the vehicular ferry across the water to Kohulohu but we did take a quick look at Clendon House. Built in the 1860’s this house was the final home of one of New Zealand’s earliest traders and ship owners, James Reddy Clendon, who was also one of the witnesses at the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. A member of the first Legislative Council from 1841-44 and a magistrate from 1850, he died in 1872 leaving behind his second wife, Jane. She was the daughter of Dennis Cochrane and Takotowai Te Whata of Hokianga, and proved to be quite the businesswoman. Despite being left with her husband’s debts, she kept the house and the business going whilst also raising eight children until her own death in 1919. The property is now owned by Hertiage New Zealand and is open to the public for a small charge. www.southmagazine.co.nz
