Go north, my friends

Winter weather might discourage some people from tourng the country but it didn’t deter HELEN PERRRY even when she encountered torrential rain, flooding and slips on a recent Northland escape.

The last time I stayed in Paihia it was abuzz with summer activity. It was a much quieter Paihia on my recent visit but, as ever, the stunningoutlookcouldn’t be faulted, its beauty matched only by the Hokianga Harbour where we spent two nights ahead ofarriving in the Bay ofIslands for a couple ofnights.

We left early on a Friday morning makingour way up to Omapere via Dargaville where we stopped for lunch at a small café, Kauta –the seafood chowder and bacon and eggquiche were excellent (real seafood in the chowder and plenty ofit).

Though not particularly heavy, the rain had started so we decided to push on and not stop to view that magnificent kauri, Tane Mahuta in the Waipoua Forest, havingdone so in the distant past.

Our journey north tookus through some beautiful countryside and, ofcourse, scenic native forests but by time we arrived at the beachfront Copthorne Hotel in Omapere, rain was fallingsteadily. Our accommodation –one ofthe older rooms at the rear ofthe property –was clean and the bed exceptionally comfortable but the bathroom was dated and TV channels very limited.

On hindsight, perhaps I should have asked about the motel units facingthe sea or even the new, and said to be luxurious, villas, but I wasn’t about to grumble; our $110 a night stay, inclusive ofbreakfast was A-Okay.

Havingsettled in we met our travellingcompanions in the bar/ diningroom. It was part ofthe original timber villa and simply oozingcharacter. I loved the ambience although it was a bit strange there was no dedicated lounge area with couches or armchairs. Instead, ahead of dinner, we sat perched on stools at high-top tables…age must be catchingup with me!.

On the other hand, the uninterrupted harbour view was to die for, the shoreline just a few strides across the lawn and beyond the swimmingpool.

Finally, ignoringthe deteriorating weather, we were ready for dinner. The above average menu promised much and though the meals were nice enough, I thought prices were high especially my bottle ofWyndham Shiraz, usually around $11 in the supermarket but $58 at the Copthorne….mmmmm!

By time we made our way to bed the rain was peltingdown but I drifted pleasantly offto sleep listeningto it beatingon the tin roof; I had the soundest night’s sleep in a longtime.

The next day dawned bright and fairly clear. The water, as they say, was like a millpond. After a ‘from the menu’ breakfast we drove to Opononi to checkout the ‘new hotel’. The last one burnt down in 1959 and as I was given to understand this is the third such establishment on the site even though it looked as ifit had been there for 100 years!

Another character-laden property (the gamingroom was a house within a house), it too enjoyed a spectacular sea view. Friendly stafftold us they lived in paradise and quickly convinced us to dine there that night. On sittingdown to bangers and mash we enjoyed hearty, wholesome food.

But, prior to that, we made our way to nearby Rawene for coffee and cake amongother goodies at The Boatshed Café perched on pylons above the water.

This charmingtown, the third oldest European settlement in NZ, retains many historic buildings which deserved more attention that we were able to give on this trip. We didn’t manage to take the vehicular ferry across the water to Kohulohu but we did take a quick lookat Clendon House.

Built in the 1860’s this house was the final home ofone ofNew Zealand’s earliest traders and ship owners, James Reddy Clendon, who was also one ofthe witnesses at the signingofthe Treaty of Waitangi in 1840.

Amember ofthe first Legislative Council from 1841-44 and a magistrate from 1850, he died in 1872 leavingbehind his second wife, Jane. She was the daughter ofDennis Cochrane and Takotowai Te Whata ofHokianga, and proved to be quite the businesswoman.

Despite beingleft with her husband’s debts, she kept the house and the business going whilst also raisingeight children until her own death in 1919. The property is now owned by Hertiage New Zealand and is open to the public for a small charge.

We left early on a Friday morning making our way up to Omapere via Dargaville where we stopped for lunch at a small café, Kauta – the seafood chowder and bacon and egg quiche were excellent (real seafood in the chowder and plenty of it).

Ofcourse, a wander around Rawene streets reveals many other treasures and it is well worth taking the time to explore.

The followingday we set offfor Paihia and although skies were grey, with a shower or two coming our way, we didn’t see heavy rain. The relatively short 90-minute drive to Paihia tookus through green pastures which looked to be recoveringfrom the summer drought, well, in colour at least, if not in real growth.

Arrivingat the Kingsgate Hotel, positioned on the waterfront, just a few strides from the central shoppingarea –some great boutique retailers –we found our room to be warm and welcoming, modern but with a homely feel.

Although one wingofthe hotel, and the bar, too, were closed, the manager ensured hearty breakfasts with plenty ofchoice (included in our $115 per night stay) and on the night we ate in we couldn’t fault our meals which were great value as was the beer and wine.

The next day dawned much brighter and we tookthe passenger ferry to Russell where we lunched at the Duke ofMarlborough –such an iconic hotel with professional yet friendly staff. I’ve decided we must stay here on our next visit –a step backin time but with all the necessary contemporary touches.

While I could have lingered for the whole afternoon, we made an effort to wander the village before makingour way backto Paihia.

Then, a quickdrive to KeriKeri where I was delighted to purchase a new wallet, a lovely scarf and mouth-wateringMakana chocolates.

It would be easy to itemise every footfall ofthis short breakbut really, ifKiwis are keen to see their own country close up, then Hokianga and the Bay ofIslands should be on the list.

With trade so much quieter than usual, it’s easy to explore at a leisurely pace and take time to appreciate both the countryside and seaside towns. So, my advice is, go north…there’s no rush on, yet!

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