2023 GO Magazine

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO ISLAND LIFE

ACCOMMODATIONS

SIGHTSEEING

WEST COAST

CUISINE

ECO TOURS

VANCOUVER ISLAND & THE GULF ISLANDS

CAMPING: Vancouver Island has thousands of camp sites in private parks as well as provincial and national sites. Take your pick from beautiful forested and waterfront sites. discovercamping.ca or pc.gc.ca/ en/voyage-travel/reserve to make reservations

DIVING: Vancouver Island is one of the best cold-water diving destinations on earth and rated second only to the Red Sea for diversity of marine life and water clarity. There are hundreds of recognized dive sites around the Island and dozens of artificial reefs from sunken ships. artificialreefsocietybc.ca

HIKING: Vancouver Island is a dream destination for hikers. Thousands of kilometres of remote and urban trails o er outstanding scenery, chances to view myriad wildlife and a solitude rarely found anywhere on earth.

MARINAS: British Columbia has more than 200 marinas along its coast, and about 160 welcome visiting boaters. Excellent websites to visit for contact information are ahoybc.com and discovervancouverisland.com

FISHING: Enjoy some of the finest fishing in the world on Island rivers and lakes up and down the coast. Try for steelhead, trout, halibut, cod and salmon. Separate licences for saltwater and freshwater fishing are required. Information: pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca and env.gov.bc.ca

PROVINCIAL PARKS: With a rich combination of First Nations cultural heritage, natural geological splendour and recreation opportunities as diverse and remarkable as the landscape, B.C. Parks o ers an adventure for every visitor. env.gov.bc.ca

MOUNTAIN BIKING: The Island o ers extensive networks of biking trails, with a diverse variety of mountain to coastal riding that ranges from steep and technical to smooth and easy. Victoria, Sooke, Duncan, Nanaimo, Cumberland, Campbell River and Hornby Island are just a few of the hotspots. mountainbikingbc.ca CATHEDRAL

ON THE COVER:

View of a river and a waterfall in a beautiful natural canyon. Taken at Sombrio Beach near Port Renfrew.

Director 250.380.5274 ekennedy@timescolonist.com

GARY HOLLICK, Sales Manager 236.508.2228 ghollick@timescolonist.com

STEPHANIE CONRAD, Advertising Sales 250.812.6046 sconrad@timescolonist.com

PAUL WIEBE, Advertising Sales 250.514.0437 pwiebe@timescolonist.com

GO Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands is on the Web at timescolonist.com –follow the links.

GO Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, published by the Times Colonist, is also distributed in the Calgary Herald, Edmonton Journal and in Metro Vancouver and Greater Seattle.

Photo: Adobe Stock

Come on over, enjoy the views

Sail or fly: Getting to Vancouver Island starts your adventure

SAILING

Sail with your vehicle, as a passenger aboard a tour bus or as a foot traveller via full-service ferry systems operating from the B.C. mainland and Washington State. Victoria is 107 kilometres (76 miles) southwest of Vancouver and 117 km (73 miles) north of Seattle.

The trip by car and ferry, or bus and ferry, takes about two hours each way from terminals on the Lower Mainland to Nanaimo and Greater Victoria. Enjoy the spectacular views of ocean and islands; you might even see some orcas, whales and dolphins en route.

B.C. Ferries provides vehicle and passenger ferry service between Vancouver and Vancouver Island. It also provides year-round connections between various Island communities and the Gulf Islands, the Sunshine Coast, Haida Gwaii and mainland northern B.C. For comprehensive schedules and how to make reservations, see www.bcferries.com

B.C. FERRIES TERMINALS

SWARTZ BAY, SIDNEY/VICTORIA

For ferry service from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen, in Vancouver, Swartz Bay to Fulford Harbour, on Salt Spring Island, Swartz Bay to Southern Gulf Islands - Mayne, Galiano, Pender and Saturna Islands

DEPARTURE BAY, NANAIMO

For ferry service from: Departure Bay to Horseshoe Bay, West Vancouver

DUKE POINT, NANAIMO

For ferry service from: Duke Point to Tsawwassen, south of Vancouver; Campbell River -Quadra Island (Quathiaski Cove) Salt Spring Island (Vesuvius Bay) - Crofton Comox - Powell River (Little River-Westview)

DAILY FLIGHTS FROM CANADIAN AND U.S. AIRPORTS:

Victoria (YYJ)

Nanaimo (YCD)

Comox (YQQ)

SCHEDULED AND CHARTERED CONNECTIONS PROVIDE QUICK ACCESS TO MANY ISLAND COMMUNITIES, INCLUDING:

Duncan (DUQ)

Qualicum Beach (XQU)

Tofino/Long Beach (YAZ)

Port Alberni ((YPD)

Campbell River (YBL)

Alert Bay (YAL)

Port Hardy (YZT)

WASHINGTON STATE

Ferry connections from Washington State include Black Ball Ferry Line’s MV Coho, connecting Victoria’s Inner Harbour with Port Angeles, and the passenger-only Victoria Clipper which runs to Seattle and back.

BRING YOUR OWN BOAT

Sail a private vessel to the Island and visit many of the communities connected to the 3,340 kilometres of coastline. Moor at a secure port and enjoy a harbourside community or at a private cove to enjoy a secluded beach.

FLYING HERE

By air to Victoria International Airport, it’s a 30-minute hop from Vancouver and just under an hour from Seattle.

Fly into international and regional airports at Victoria, Nanaimo and Comox by commercial airliners either direct from the Prairie provinces or on a connecting flight from Vancouver or Seattle. Or you can make the trip in memorable style aboard a Harbour Air float plane or a Helijet helicopter soaring across the Salish Sea and Puget Sound.

Water aerodromes with float-plane scheduled service are located in Victoria, Nanaimo, Comox, Campbell River, Port Alberni and Tofino. Harbour Air and other charter air companies fly into several locations around the Island.

Vancouver Island’s 3,340 km (2,137 miles) of coastline and nearly 10,000 lakes make it possible for a float plane to land in a number of remote locations, providing unique experiences at any number of destinations.

IF YOU GO

Passports and Visas: Visitors from countries outside of Canada must have a valid passports and, in some cases visas. For the most up to date information, see U.S. Customs and the Canada Border Service Agency websites.

Customs: People entering Canada must complete a Canada Customs declaration form on what items and limits you bring into the country. Revenue Canada, Customs and Excise: Victoria downtown branch 400-1321 Blanshard St; Victoria International Airport: 201-1321 Electra Blvd, Sidney; Canada Customs airport o ce 250-363-6644. For more info, visit cbsa-asfc.gc.ca

Currency: British Columbia uses Canadian currency. Most businesses o er exchange rates for U.S. dollars and there are currency exchange businesses and banks who o er rates on several currencies.

Taxes: A Goods and Services Tax (GST) of 5% and a provincial sales tax of 7% apply to most products and services in the province. There are also additional taxes on short-term accommodation that is applied to the prices of hotels and lodging

B.C. Liquor Regulations: The legal age to buy and consume liquor in British Columbia is 19. Two pieces of identification are usually required.

B.C. Cannabis Regulations: Recreational cannabis use is legal in Canada. You must be 19 years or older to buy, use, possess or grow non-medical cannabis in B.C. Non-medical cannabis is sold exclusively at government-run stores, licensed private retailers and the B.C. government’s online store. It is illegal to take cannabis across Canada’s national borders, whether you are entering or leaving Canada.

BC FERRIES VESSEL SPIRIT OF VANCOUVER ISLAND IN ACTIVE PASS BETWEEN GALIANO AND MAYNE ISLAND.

THE VICTORIA CLIPPER PASSENGER FERRY SAILS DAILY BETWEEN VICTORIA AND SEATTLE, WASHINGTON. ADOBE STOCK

THE COHO CAR-PASSENGER FERRY SAILS DAILY BETWEEN VICTORIA AND PORT ANGELES, WASHINGTON.

Rhythms of nature

Indigenous tourism is the heartbeat of Vancouver Island

Indigenous Peoples of the Island maintain close connections to the land, water, animals and supernatural realms of their unique territories.

There are three main First Nations groups on Vancouver Island — the Kwakwaka’wakw, Nuuchah-nulth and Coast Salish — and all base their ways of life on the rhythms of nature and the measured bounties of the land and sea.

Within the groups are various First Nations with unique cultures, governments and businesses, many of which cater to tourism in their traditional territories.

They share their deep, respectful relationship with the bountiful ocean and temperate rain forests.

There are hotels, whale and wildlife watching tours, cultural exhibits, totems and carving displays. Enjoy salmon cooked on an open cedar fire or dine in one of the many First Nations restaurants.

Set out by boat to meet resident grizzly bears, see whales and experience the fastest navigable tidal rapids on earth. Raise your eyes

to big houses and lift your spirit to the tallest of totem poles. Indigenous culture, sacred regalia and modern art are shared here.

Old-growth rain forests and destination luxury on the life-sustaining waters of the Pacific Ocean and the lands of the Kwakwa̱ka̱ʼwakw people await on the North Island.

Camp beachside or recline in ocean-front luxury with Huu-ay-aht hosts on the west coast. Explore windswept Ucluelet or sight-see through the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve to Tofino and Long Beach’s legendary surfing and whale watching. The Nuu-chah-nulth people share the sandy white beaches and deep waters of the 100-plus pristine islands o of the west coast of Vancouver Island.

On southern Vancouver Island, share the beauty of the ocean, camas meadows and forests with the Lekwungen and WSANEC peoples and several Nuu-chah-Nulth Nations, who operate a variety of tourism businesses, including tours of their sacred sites.

KWAKWAKA’WAKW TRIBAL REGION

THE FIRST NATIONS OF VANCOUVER ISLAND ARE WITHIN THREE DISTINCT TRIBAL REGIONS — KWAKWAKA’WAKW, NUU-CHAHNULTH AND COAST SALISH.

NUU-CHAH-NULTH TRIBAL REGION

COAST SALISH TRIBAL REGION

MAP: VANCOUVER ISLAND ECONOMIC ALLIANCE

The First Nations of Vancouver Island

If you are exploring, it is tradition to honour and respect your hosts on their traditional territories

AHOUSAHT

Location: West coast of Vancouver Island on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound.

Population: 2,158

SC’IANEW (BEECHER BAY) FIRST NATION

Location: East Sooke. Population: 260

WEI WAI KUM NATION

(CAMPBELL RIVER INDIAN BAND)

Location: Campbell River. Population: 846

WE WAI KAI NATION (CAPE MUDGE BAND)

Location: Quadra Island. Population: 1,159

STZ’UMINUS FIRST NATION (CHEMAINUS)

Location: 30 km south of Nanaimo

Population: 1,378

COWICHAN TRIBES

Location: Adjacent to Duncan, 50 km northwest of Victoria. Population: 5,185

DA’NAXDA’XW/AWAETLALA FIRST NATION

Location: North end of Vancouver Island and the Knight Inlet area. Population: 228

DITIDAHT FIRST NATION

Location: Cowichan Lake, through Nitinat Lake, to the west coast of Vancouver Island.

Population: 772

EHATTESAHT FIRST NATION

Location: West coast of Vancouver Island, 70 km west of Gold River. Population: 496

ESQUIMALT FIRST NATION

Location: West of Victoria in View Royal Population: 324

GWA’SALA-‘NAKWAXDA’XW NATIONS

Location: Adjacent to Port Hardy on the northeastern tip of Vancouver Island Population: 1,054

HALALT FIRST NATION

Location: Near Crofton, 55 km northwest of Victoria. Population: 217

HESQUIAHT FIRST NATION

Location: Hotsprings Cove, 35 km northwest of Tofino. Population: 734

HOMALCO FIRST NATION

Location: Calm Channel, 35 km northeast of Campbell River. Population: 475

HUL’QUMI’NUM TREATY GROUP

Location: Near Duncan, Chemainus and Ladysmith, 60 km northwest of Victoria

Population: approx. 5,000

HUPACASATH FIRST NATION

Location: Port Alberni, 150 km northwest of Victoria. Population: 344

HUU-AY-AHT FIRST NATIONS

Location: Barkley Sound near Bamfield

Population: 731

KA:’YU:’K’T’H’/CHE:K:TLES7ET’H’

FIRST NATIONS (KYUQUOT)

Location: Kyuquot Sound. Population: 579

KLAHOOSE FIRST NATION

Location: East shore of Cortes Island

Population: 419

K’ÓMOKS FIRST NATION (COMOX INDIAN BAND)

Location: Comox Valley, 200 km north of Victoria

Population: 344

KWAKIUTL INDIAN BAND

Location: Near Port Hardy. Population: 846

KWIAKAH FIRST NATION

Location: 40 km north of Campbell River on the South Coast. Population: 22

KWIKWASUT’INUXW HAXWA’MIS

FIRST NATION

Location: Gilford Island, 40 km east of Port Hardy

Population: 312

KA:’YU:’K’T’H’/CHE:K:TLES7ET’H’

FIRST NATIONS (KYUQUOT)

Location: Kyuquot Sound. Population: 579

LAKE COWICHAN FIRST NATION (TS’UUBAA-ASATX)

Location: North shore of Cowichan Lake, 80 km northwest of Victoria. Population: 25

LYACKSON FIRST NATION

Location: Valdes Island, o the east Coast of Vancouver Island. Population: 221

MALAHAT NATION

Location: Western shore of Saanich Inlet, south of Mill Bay. Population: 334

MAMALILIKULLA FIRST NATION

Location: Compton Island near Port Hardy

Population: 441

MOWACHAHT/MUCHALAHT FIRST NATION

Location: Mouth of Nootka Sound near Gold River

Population: 611

‘NAMGIS FIRST NATION

Location: Centred around Alert Bay, east of Pt. McNeill on Cormorant Island. Population: 1,922

SNAW-NAW-AS (NANOOSE) FIRST NATION

Location: 10 km north of Nanaimo.

Population: 260

NANWAKOLAS COUNCIL

Location: Vancouver Island and adjacent South Central Coast. Population: 2,722

NUCHATLAHT FIRST NATION

Location: At the head of Espinosa Inlet 70 km west of Gold River. Population: 163

Continued on page 10

TOURISM VANCOUVER ISLAND/JORDAN DYCK

NUU-CHAH-NULTH TRIBAL COUNCIL

Location: West Coast of Vancouver Island

Population: 4,606

PACHEEDAHT FIRST NATION

Location: 80 km northwest of Victoria, near Port Renfrew. Population: 290

PAUQUACHIN FIRST NATION

Location: Near Sidney on the Saanich Peninsula north of Victoria. Population: 403

PENELAKUT TRIBE

Location Kuper Island, near Ladysmith o the east coast of Vancouver Island. Population: 1,011

QUALICUM FIRST NATION

Location: Near Qualicum Beach. Population: 128

QUATSINO FIRST NATION

Location: North end of Vancouver Island and the Knight Inlet area.. Population: 559

SNUNEYMUXW FIRST NATION

Location: Nanaimo River watershed on the east coast of Vancouver Island and including Gabriola Island and other adjacent islands

Population: 1,819

SONGHEES NATION

Location: Esquimalt Harbour west of Victoria in View Royal. Population: 571

T’SOU-KE NATION

Location: Near Sooke, 30 km southwest of Victoria. Population: 267

STZ’UMINUS FIRST NATION (CHEMAINUS)

Location: 30 km south of Nanaimo

Population: 1,378

TLA-O-QUI-AHT FIRST NATIONS

Location: West coast of central Vancouver Island between Pacific Rim National Park and Tofino and on Meares Island. Population: 1,146

TLATLASIKWALA FIRST NATION

Location: North end of Vancouver Island and the Knight Inlet area. Population: 66

TLOWITSIS NATION

Location: Northeast Vancouver Island and nearby portions of the mainland. Population: 440

TOQUAHT NATION

Location: Toquaht Bay on the north side of Barkley Sound. Population: 156

TSARTLIP FIRST NATION

Location: Brentwood Bay, Saanich Peninsula

Population: 1,009

TSAWOUT FIRST NATION

Location: Saanich Peninsula near Victoria

Population: 873

TSESHAHT FIRST NATION

Location: On the Somass River, 5 km northwest of Port Alberni. Population: 1,186

TSEYCUM FIRST NATION

Location: Saanich Peninsula near Victoria

Population: 193

UCHUCKLESAHT TRIBE

Location: On Uchucklesaht Inlet and Henderson Lake. Population: 228

FIRST NATION (UCLUELET)

Location: E ngham Inlet and Nahmint River valley. Population: 678

EVERYTHING INDIGENOUS at your fingertips

DOWNLOAD THE INDIGENOUS B.C. TRIP PLANNER APP

PLANNING A VISIT TO BRITISH COLUMBIA AND VANCOUVER ISLAND?

The Indigenous BC Trip Planner App is a must-have tool for planning an unforgettable trip. Find authentic Indigenous experiences and businesses, learn common Indigenous words and phrases and hear traditional songs, stories and legends.

Use the Indigenous BC Trip Planner App to search for experiences, accommodations and businesses. Save your favourites to create your own custom itinerary, then use the interactive map to find attractions and experiences close to you once you’ve arrived.

View the most up-todate business reopening information, including hours of operation.

For thousands of years, Indigenous peoples have passed on their stories, songs, languages, and histories through oral traditions. The app connects users to a growing library of songs, legends, and languages showcasing diverse and unique Indigenous cultures across B.C.

Download the app for free at the Apple Store or Google Play.

APRIL&OCTOBER GULF ISL ANDS &SA LISHSEA

Thesetripsleaveo wherethe roadendsanddelveintoan odysseythroughgeologicand humantimescales, alongside sculptedsandstoneshorelines, moistrainforestsandeagles soaring along rocky blu s.Includes highlightsofthe200+islands, mostfaro theferryroute. Fares st ar t at $3,000on Maple Leaf(Sail)and$3,300onSwell (ConvertedTug)beforetaxes, basedoncabincategory.

APRIL&OCTOBER VANCOUV ER ISLAND’SWILDSIDE (NORTHWEST)

APRIL&OCTOBER DESOLATIONSOUND

.

DesolationSound possesses a magnetismthatdrawsexplorers theworldover.Mostoftheir boatscongregateinitspopular anchorages;ourexpeditions go beyond,exploringisolatedbaysand remote,ruggedcoastline.Thereare fewboatswhenwego,butthere istra c.Thewhale“rushhour”is oneofmanydistractionsyou’llfind aboard. Faresstartat$2,600on MapleLeaf(Sail),$3,250onSwell (ConvertedTug)and$4,450on Cascadia(C atamaran)before taxes,basedoncabincategory.

Littlevisited,hardtoaccess.This isamulti-dayexplorationintoa sideofVancouverIslandthatmost neversee.Surroundedbythe northpacific,cooloceanbattersits ruggedshores,nurturing abundant wildlife.FromCapeSutiltothe beachesandpu ns ofBrooks Peninsulatoawarmwelcomeby friendsatKyuquotSound. Fares startat$7,800onCascadia (C atamaran)beforetaxes ,based oncabincategory.

APRIL&OCTOBER WHALES&TOTEMS (BROUGHTON ARCHIPEL AGO)

Sealions,dolphins,orcaand humpbackwhales navigate thechannels of theBroughton Archipelago.Thisisarichplaceto spendtimewiththesegiantsofthe sea.LandoftheKwakwaka’wakw, wherewemayvisittheU’Mista CulturalCentreandothercultural highlights. Fares st ar t at$4,400 onMapleLeaf(Sail)beforetaxes.

So much to see and do

Vancouver Island has been named by Condé Naste Traveller as one of the world’s best island vacation destinations, noting its sheer size and diversity of wilderness and wildlife as well as urban charms.

The luxury travel magazine’s selection of Vancouver Island for 2023 was among several worldclass islands on the list, from Polynesia and Hawaii to Vietnam and Ecuador.

The wild side of Vancouver Island is in the deep old-growth rain forests, mountain trails and the aweinspiring power of the Pacific Ocean. An abundance of wildlife is found in the forests, in the skies, in inland waterways and o shore. Challenge yourself with outdoor experiences such as hiking, fishing, climbing, diving, surfing, kayaking or mountain biking.

Enjoy the charming side with barefoot walks along soft sandy beaches or a hike through misty rain forests. Indulge in modern creature comforts and a bit of personal pampering. Book a stay in resort lodgings or a warm and welcoming bed and breakfast. Eat in unpretentious, quietly world-class restaurants or try out a hip new restaurant making its début. Tour award-winning wineries, cideries and meaderies, or visit one of the Island’s unique distilleries. Plan for some satisfying retail therapy excursions and experience a world of gracious hospitality.

There’s simply so much to see and do. You will be sure to discover some unexpected aspect of Vancouver Island that will surprise and delight you.

It has long been called one of the world’s greatest islands, described as equal parts wild and charming

■ The Island is 460 kilometres long and 100 kilometres wide with about 32,000 square kilometres of area, and about 3,400 kilometres of coastline, making it a boater’s, beachcomber’s and diver’s dream.

■ The Vancouver Island mountain range runs the length of the entire Island with the highest point being the summit of the Golden Hinde at 2,195 metres. The mountains make for some great hiking, where you can trek to Della Falls in Strathcona Park, the highest waterfall in North America at 440 metres, or 1,443 feet.

■ And get ready to see some ancient trees. Carmanah Walbran Provincial Park is home to some of the world’s largest spruce trees, reaching heights in excess of 95 metres or 310 feet. Some of the world’s tallest trees are found just a short drive from Victoria in the Port Renfrew Area. Take the Circle Route drive from Victoria through Sooke and Port Renfrew to Lake Cowichan. It’s sure to please.

■ More than 7,000 known species inhabit the coastal waters of Vancouver Island. This includes more than 200 species of migratory birds and 33 species of land mammals. In the ocean, orcas — also known as killer whales — and white-sided dolphins are common sights from shore and out on wildlife tours where you will also surely see humpback, grey and minke whales, feeding, travelling and breaching.

■ Vancouver Island’s rainfall, vegetation, soil cover and topography have resulted in thousands of well-developed caves, including some of Canada’s deepest and longest cave systems. It has the largest concentration of karst caves in North America with more than 10,000 caves making up nearly four per cent of the Island’s terrain. Explore the caves of Horne Lake, north of Nanaimo, with an experienced guide and discover underground waterfalls, crystal formations and ancient fossils. Or take a tour in the north to explore the series of caves between Port Alice and Port McNeil, including the Devil’s Bath, Canada’s only cenote, or natural sink hole.

■ There is strong support for all things local: Vancouver Island has more than 2,800 farms, with nearly 1,000 in the Greater Victoria region, all producing fresh produce and other foods through the year.

■ And cheers! From the South Island, through the Cowichan Valley and to Comox Valley, there are 37 licensed wineries, dozens of craft brewers and cider makers.

■ National Geographic recognizes Vancouver Island as one of the best cold-water diving destinations on earth and the renowned Jacques Cousteau Society rates the area second only to the Red Sea for diversity of marine life and water clarity. So suit up, buckle up those tanks and enjoy the diversity under the depths. A few of the gem locations include Nanaimo, Race Rocks off Victoria, Nanoose Bay, Sidney area and Dodd Narrows. Check for several sunken wrecks to explore.

Vancouver Island is the traditional territory of the Kwakwaka’wakw, Nuu-chah-nulth and Coast Salish First Nations

Beautiful Victoria

The enduring appeal of modern city with a rich past

The main point of entry for Vancouver Island, Victoria has it all — a growing metropolitan centre with a long history and a bright future.

First Nations have a long and storied presence here. Victoria is the home of the Lekwungen People, also known as the Esquimalt and Songhees Nation. The Capital Region encompasses the traditional territories of Coast Salish First Nations bands (Esquimalt, Songhees, Pauguachin, Tseycum, Tsawout, Tsartlip, Scia’new, T’souke and Malahat), and one Nuuchach-Nulth First Nations band (Pacheedaht).

Local First Nations are creating new visitor experiences and telling their stories. As you travel through the city, you will find seven carvings — signs of the Lekwungen — that mark places of cultural significance. See Pages 24-25.

Walk along Government Street to Bastion Square and you will find bricks embedded in the pavement tracing the outline of the original Fort Victoria, a Hudson’s Bay Company trading post.

Picturesque heritage buildings, horse-drawn carriages, doubledecker sight-seeing bus tours, two castles and the quintessential treat — tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel overlooking the

Inner Harbour — are all reminiscent of a British heritage. The city is named for Queen Victoria, one of Britain’s most lasting monarchs.

And signs of growth are everywhere with new, modern buildings piercing the skylines. The region is home to two universities and a college, the provincial capital and a strong federal and provincial workforce — including home port for Canada’s Pacific Naval Fleet.

With a perfect growing climate — warm summers and mild winters, Victoria is also known internationally as the City of Gardens.

AND THERE ARE MANY MORE REASONS TO VISIT AND STAY:

■ Victoria has been named both the Most Romantic City in Canada (for a decade running), one of the top 15 Friendliest Cities in the World, one of the World’s Best Places to Visit and Canada’s Best City to Live in for Women. International travel magazine Condé Nast named Victoria the 7th Best City and 2nd Best Small City in the world.

■ Downtown is home to one of the province’s biggest technology clusters with hundreds of small companies and thousands of employees contributing millions to the local economy.

Greater Victoria is on the ancestral and traditional lands of the Lekwungen speaking families of Xwsepsum (Esquimalt) and Lekwungen (Songhees) People

VICTORIA'S INNER HARBOUR WITH THE LEGISLATIVE BUILDING IN

MALE PEACOCK POSES IN BEACON HILL PARK

Juan de Fuca Strait

TROUNCE ALLEY RESTAURANTS AND SHOPS

DESTINATION BC/TANYA GOEHRING

■ Victoria is one of the most bike-friendly cities in the country, with hundreds of kilometres of cycle paths, bike lanes and routes in the city, including the incomparable Galloping Goose Regional Trail.

■ The waters off Victoria in the Salish Sea are teeming with humpback whales and orcas. Record numbers of the majestic creatures have been reported in the past year and whale watchers are guaranteeing sightings.

■ Victoria has more restaurants per capita than any other place in the country and rivals the foodie scene in San Francisco.

■ Victoria gets 2,183 hours of sunshine per year and eight months — sometimes more — that are frost free.

■ The city is home to one of the largest collections of heritage buildings — both commercial and residential — in Canada. Stroll the downtown and see buildings from the late 1800s carefully restored. Buy a book at Munro’s and marvel at the architecture and have a pint of local brew at the Irish Times, named North America’s best Irish pub, or the Bard & Banker, once home and workplace to one of Canada’s most beloved poets, Robert Service. Murchie’s has been serving coffee and tea here for 130 years.

■ Stroll through the grandeur of the Fairmont Empress Hotel, the landmark on Victoria’s Harbour, and have high tea there. Half a million cups are served annually at the

Empress Hotel.

DESTINATION BC/GARRY HENKEL

CHINATOWN IN VICTORIA

■ More than one million visitors a year stroll through the internationally renowned Butchart Gardens, a National Historic Site in Canada.

■ Victoria’s Chinatown is the oldest in Canada and the second oldest in North America after San Francisco. You will find the narrowest commercial street in all of Canada here, Fan Tan Alley, where former opium and gambling dens are now small boutiques and shops.

■ There are more than a dozen golf courses in Victoria. Winters are mild, so you can play year round.

■ 1,500 lamp posts across the city hold hanging flower baskets every summer.

■ Mile 0 of the Trans Canada Highway is next to Beacon Hill Park, at Douglas Street and Dallas Road. Look for a statue of national hero and cancer fighter Terry Fox.

■ The Art Gallery of Greater Victoria is a 15-minute stroll from downtown and known for its touring exhibits and a permanent collection of 18,000 objets d’art from Asia, Europe and North America. It has the most comprehensive collection of Asian art in Canada.

■ Vancouver Island has over 2,800 farms, with nearly 1,000 in the Greater Victoria Region and 700 in the Cowichan Valley.

APR16,2023

–JAN7,2024

ADOBE STOCK

POPULAR PORT FOR CRUISE SHIPS

ADOBE STOCK

ADOBE STOCK

■ Carr House, Emily Carr’s birthplace in historic James Bay, is just up the road from the provincial legislature and Inner Harbour. Here you can see where one of Canada’s greatest painters spent most of her life.

■ Bastion Square, the historic, pedestrian-only site of the original Fort Victoria, is home to shops, restaurants and a busy artisan market and talented buskers.

■ The Breakwater District at Ogden Point is a world-class cruise ship port where thousands of passengers stop over en route to Alaska. Walk the long breakwater in any weather for an exhilarating experience. And watch for star fish, seals and octopus.

■ Beacon Hill Park is a jewel in Victoria’s crown. The 200-acre park has meticulously manicured gardens, as well as natural Garry Oak meadows and grasslands, lakes, bridges, fountains and an impressive variety of exotic and native trees. Goodacre and Fountain Lakes are home to a variety of waterfowl, and wild peacocks roam the park. The children’s petting farm is a favourite with families with its lively goats, donkeys, piglets and more.

■ Craigdarroch Castle was built for coal baron Robert Dunsmuir, B.C.’s first millionaire. This 39-room Victorian-era mansion has been meticulously restored and is open for tours, and is often the site of movie productions. The 87 steps up the main staircase leads to one of the best views of Greater Victoria.

ADOBE STOCK

BASTION SQUARE

DARREN STONE

■ Robert Dunsmuir’s son, James Dunsmuir, commissioned the build of Hatley Castle, another spectacular example of architecture. Hatley Park is home to 15 km of walking and hiking trails through old forests, a protected bird sanctuary and historic First Nations sites. Today the grounds are home to Royal Roads University and are a hot-spot for movie productions.

■ Fisherman’s Wharf in James Bay, steps from the Inner Harbour, is a great place to buy fresh seafood. Lunch on delicious fish’n’chips right on the dock or enjoy an ice cream from Victoria’s only floating ice cream store as you take in the colourful collection of house boats. Curious harbour seals keep watch here. The pier is a stop for Victoria Harbour Ferry. You can hop on to take a unique tour of the harbour.

HOTTESTDAYS&NIGHTS OF THECOOLESTMUSICIN

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~40thEdition~

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The Butchart Gardens

Where beauty bursts all around

Recognized as one of the Top 10 Gardens of the World and attracting more than a million global visitors annually, Butchart Gardens was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2004, in honour of its 100th birthday.

The Butchart Gardens are open year-round with each season o ering a unique experience.

Spring bursts forth with its show of unparalleled beauty showcasing hundreds of thousands of bulbs in bloom, accompanied by a host of flowering trees and shrubs.

Summer is breathtaking, with floral splendor greeting you at every turn. The Rose Garden

The Butchart Gardens has been welcoming visitors for more than a century, and millions worldwide have been taken by the blooms of colour.

These magical gardens were created by Jennie Butchart in the early 1900s around an old limestone quarry and are still privately owned and operated by the family. The 130-acre estate located in Brentwood Bay, between Victoria and Sidney on the Saanich Peninsula, o ers 55 acres of cultivated display gardens featuring the Sunken Garden, Rose Garden, Japanese Garden, Italian Garden and Mediterranean Garden.

BUTCHART GARDENS

BUTCHART GARDENS

features 250 varieties of roses, providing an abundance of beauty and fragrance, while in the Sunken Garden hundreds of colorful annuals take centre stage. Night illuminations enhance a summer evening visit with thousands of lights of varying intensity and colour, giving a soft magical glow to the shrubs, trees and flower beds as dusk falls.

Autumn is the perfect time of year to enjoy the serenity of the Japanese Garden. As warm days transition to crisp nights, the maple trees transform into a canopy of vibrant red, russet and gold.

Christmas is a magical time of year. Bundle up and experience the Twelve Days of Christmas light displays as you stroll through the Gardens. Traditional carollers and festive brass fill the air with the sounds of the season.

Traditional afternoon tea is the perfect experience any time of year. Served daily in the former residence of the Butchart family, the Dining Room Restaurant o ers an elegant ambiance.

Complete your visit with a stop in the Seed & Gift Store, featuring hand-packaged seeds to oneof-a-kind gifts made by local artisans.

BUTCHART GARDENS

BUTCHART GARDENS

Journey through the ages at the Royal B.C. Museum

The Royal British Columbia Museum is gearing up for a great year.

With not one, not two, but three great exhibitions set to amaze and delight museumgoers in addition to the immersive Natural History Gallery and ever-changing temporary displays, there really is something for everyone.

From coastal forests to the depths of the north Pacific, learn more about the land and landscape of British Columbia and how it has evolved over time. Journey to the ice age and spot a woolly mammoth, dive under the ocean and check out some of the amazing creatures living in our waters and see how climate change is impacting the world we live in.

Beginning April 17, visitors are invited to dig into prehistoric British Columbia and learn more about “Buster,” the Iron Lizard of the Sustut River. Get up close and personal with Buster and the other dinosaurs that once roamed the province’s highest peaks, densest forests and most remote river basins in this in-house designed travelling exhibition. Through research done by the Royal B.C. Museum’s palaeontology team, we’re learning just how many ancient creatures once called these lands home.

Follow the footsteps of tyrannosaurs and ankylosaurs, see beautifully preserved marine fossils and meet the B.C.-born and bred Buster, our reigning resident ferrisaurus.

Dinosaurs of B.C. is the perfect pit-stop before coming face to face with a much bigger dinosaur upstairs in SUE: The T. rex Experience, opening on the museum’s third floor on June 16.

Come and meet SUE, the most complete and best-preserved Tyrannosaurus rex ever found at Hell Creek, South Dakota, one of the most well documented ecosystems from the age of dinosaurs. Learn how SUE survived her challenging and dangerous world, living to old age despite the odds.

SUE IS ONE OF THE LARGEST T. REX EVER DISCOVERED, AND WITH SCIENTIFIC UPDATES TO THE SPECIMEN, WE NOW KNOW MORE ABOUT T. REX THAN EVER BEFORE –INCLUDING THE GASTRALIA AND WISHBONE. © 2018 FIELD MUSEUM, PHOTO BY LUCY HEWETT

DON’T MISS THE MULTIMEDIA SHOW ON SUE’S CAST. © FIELD MUSEUM, PHOTO BY MARTIN BAUMGAERTNER

Walk alongside a larger-than-life mural showing the lands SUE once called home, feel their skin, smell their breath, and see SUE face o against their most formidable nemesis, Triceratops. Find out for yourself why SUE is truly one of a kind.

Then jump forward in time to ancient Angkor Wat and marvel at 120 spectacular artworks and original artifacts never before seen in Canada. Beginning June 2, see how Cambodian scientists using contemporary technology have expanded our knowledge of this historic site, where research continues to this day.

Home to a large complex society, ancient Angkor was a bustling community of elite craftsmen, ruling class members, and a specialized priesthood. This spectacular exhibition boasts original objects from the UNESCO site and a variety of interactive displays, audio clips and films that bring this vast dynamic metropolis to life.

Visitors can learn more by watching two amazing companion films on the giant screen at IMAX® Victoria, Dinosaurs of Antarctica and the aptly named Angkor: The Lost Empire of Cambodia.

Outside the walls of the museum, there’s more to see. You can enjoy other remarkable historical venues on the grounds, including Helmcken House, St. Ann’s Schoolhouse, the Netherlands Centennial Carillon and Thunderbird Park. The precinct also includes a year-round food truck festival and Sequoia Coastal Co ee, all located on Victoria’s Inner Harbour.

Land of the Lekwungen

Take a walk back in time

This is the land of the Lekwungen People, known today as the Esquimalt and Songhees Nations. As you travel through the city, you will find seven carvings that mark places of cultural significance.

To seek out these markers is to learn about the land, its original culture, and the spirit of its people.

The Lekwungen People have hunted and gathered here for thousands of years. This area, with its temperate climate, natural harbours and rich resources, was a trading centre for a diversity of First Peoples.

The development of a modern city here makes it more di cult to experience the landscape that is home to the Lekwungen. However, footprints of traditional land use are all around us, and this land is inseparable from the lives, customs, art and culture of those who have lived here since the beginning.

The seven numbered areas are special places of importance to the Lekwungen people, and as you visit these sites, you will find each one marked with a carving created by Songhees artist Butch Dick.

The carvings are of enlarged spindle whorls, small discs used traditionally for spinning wool. These spindle whorls are enlargements of a traditional tool.

To follow the markers and visit these traditional places is to learn about the land, its original culture and the spirit of its people.

1.SONGHEES POINT | P’ÁLƏC’ƏS

PAH-lu-tsuss means “cradle-board”.

Traditionally, once infants had learned to walk, their cradles were placed at this sacred headland because of the spiritual power of the water here. More recently, there was a settlement here, and subsequently a reserve, that traded with the fort on the opposite shore. This place is also known as Songhees Point.

EUGENE SAM PERFORMS WITH THE LEKWUNGEN TRADITIONAL DANCERS IN CENTENNIAL SQUARE.

PHOTO: DARREN STONE, TIMES COLONIST

2.THE SITE OF THE SOUTHWEST BASTION OF THE HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY FORT

An imposing wooden fort, called Fort Camosun (and later known as Fort Victoria), was built here by the Lekwungen men and women in exchange for trade goods. This marked a drastic change in traditional ways and traditional sustainable land use. A large forested area was destroyed to raise the fort.

3.OUTSIDE CITY HALL | SKWC’ƏNJÍŁC

skwu-tsu-KNEE-lth-ch, literally “bitter cherry tree” Here, willowlined berry-rich creeks and meadows meandered down to the ocean, and paths made by bark harvesters bordered the waterways. The imprints of these creeks can still be seen in the uneven ground of the Market Square area. This was a creek bed that led back to the food gathering areas now contained by Fort, View, Vancouver and Quadra streets. Bark from the bitter cherry was used to make a variety of household objects.

4.LOWER CAUSEWAY | XWSЗYQ’ӘM (INTERPRETIVE PANEL LOCATION)

whu-SEI-kum, “place of mud”, marked wide tidal mudflats and some of the best clam beds on the coast. These flats were buried when the area was filled in, to construct the Empress Hotel. This place was also one end of a canoe portage. The portage could be used to avoid the harbour entrance during heavy seas by cutting through from the eastern side of what is now Ross Bay Cemetery. Along the route, arrowheads and other stone tools are still found, reminding us that the lowlands were rich for hunting.

5.BESIDE THE “LOOKOUT” ON BEACON HILL | MÍQƏN

The hill is called MEE-qan which means “warmed by the sun.” This seaward slope was a popular place for rest and play –a game similar to field hockey, called Coqwialls, was played here. At the bottom of the hill was a small, palisaded village that was occupied intermittently until 300 years ago. The settlement was here for defence during times of war, and it was also important for reef net fishing. The starchy bulbs of the wildflower, Camas, were an important food source gathered in this area. The hill here is also known as Beacon Hill.

6.ROYAL BRITISH COLUMBIA MUSEUM | Q’EMÁSƏNJ CORNER OF GOVERNMENT AND BELLEVILLE STREETS

The objects, carvings and art of the Lekwungen people are unique. The Lekwungen have loaned many cultural objects from this area to the museum so that the traditions can be shared as we share the land. Some of these objects are on display inside.

7.LAUREL POINT

The carving here marks a 19th century First Nations burial ground. Small burial shelters with different carved mortuary figures, including human figures, were placed in front of the graves and stood here until the 1850s. No traditional name is known for this area.

TOURS

Join a Signs of the Lekwungen walking or canoe tour departing from Ship Point every Thursday through Sunday.

Visit the kiosk tent and food cart at Ship Point to view Lekwungen art for sale, pick up some bannock and learn more about the culture.

Private group bookings for six to 15 people are available year round. Book via email at info@exploresonghees.com or Facebook messenger.

EXPLORE SONGHEES. CO-ORDINATOR CECELIA DICK

PHOTO: KIM PEMBERTON

PHOTO: SONGHEES NATION

Fan Tan Alley holds the record for narrowest street in Canada and is a central piece to Canada’s oldest Chinatown in downtown Victoria. Just 0.9m wide (about 4 feet) at the narrowest point, it is filled with boutiques and shops selling clothes, jewelry, music, shoes and other items to locals and tourists. Well worth the visit and a selfie for friends back home.

FAN TAN ALLEY

DARREN STONE, TIMES COLONIST

GHOSTLY WALKS

South Island Treasures

FORT RODD HILL/FISGARD LIGHTHOUSE

A favourite day trip for families and historic adventurers, Fort Rodd Hill is home to the oldest lighthouse on Canada’s West Coast, a historic coastal artillery fort and century-old gun batteries. The commanding sea views are spectacular and self-guided historic tours over several acres make it a perfect place to picnic and spend the day.

GHOST TOURS

Ghostly Walks was developed by John Adams, one of Victoria’s foremost historians and storytellers. The tours are conducted by John and his expert guides, and will take you to downtown Victoria’s most haunted spots. The city has some amazing stories of murder, love and hangings. Book a tour at discoverthepast.com

TOURISTS TAKE PHOTOS AND BROWSE THROUGH THE HISTORIC FAN TAN ALLEY.

ROSS BAY CEMETERY

Ross Bay Cemetery at 1516 Fairfield Road is one of the most historic places in Victoria, and the final resting place of Emily Carr, Sir James Douglas (B.C.’s first governor), Billy Barker (discoverer of gold at Barkerville) and Robert Dunsmuir (Craigdarroch Castle).

CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL

The towering Gothic cathedral at 930 Burdett Avenue on the fringe of downtown is one of Canada’s largest churches. Self-guided tour lets you explore the grandeur and history of this architectural gem.

AERIAL ADVENTURES

WildPlay Element Parks nature-based aerial adventures in Victoria and Nanaimo o er a unique way for adults, teens and kids to have fun together. Both Parks feature tree-top obstacles and zip lines, where dozens of suspended games weave two to 18 metres (6 to 60 feet) through the island’s beautiful forests. Conquer the wobbly bridges, hanging nets, Tarzan swings, and more surprises. For added adventures, visit the Island’s only Bungy Jump, Primal Swing, and Zipline Tour in Nanaimo. Pre-booked and walk-in spots available March through October. Visit WildPlay.com for current hours, and park amenities.

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CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL

ROB ANZIT

MENTAL HEALTH RECOVERY PARTNERS TO HOST 17TH ANNUAL NAKED BUNGY JUMP

Hundreds of daring adventurers are about to take the plunge of their lives, and they will be naked! For the 17th time, Mental Health Recovery Partners (MHRP) and WildPlay Element Parks of Nanaimo will partner to host the Naked Bungy Jump for Mental Health on March 4th and 5th, 2023. Last year, the event raised over $100,000 to help provide life-saving mental health programs for people with mental illness, regardless of their diagnosis, and their families/ caregivers, including peer support, counselling, support groups and Wellness Recovery Action Plan programs. People are considered equal partners as they receive support and encouragement on their mental wellness journey.

DRAGON ALLEY

Chinatown’s other mysterious passageway connects Fisgard and Herald Streets and is home to an eclectic mix of shops, restaurants, studios and residential units. Look for the red “Dragon Alley” sign on the north side of Fisgard Street.

ALL ABOARD THE PICKLE BOATS

Take a tour of the harbour and nearby Gorge Waterway for a di erent look at the city aboard Victoria Harbour Ferry’s famous pickle boats and taxis. The expert captains and tour guides will give you an entertaining history of the working harbour and the city.

FISHERMAN’S WHARF

Spend a few hours on the docks at Fisherman’s Wharf. See the colourful float homes and buy fresh crab from the working fishing fleet stationed here. Don’t forget to have lunch at one of the several eateries, including some of the world’s best fish and chips. You can take a Victoria Harbour Ferry from the causeway in front of the Empress Hotel, and visit other points of interest in the Victoria Harbour.

Award-winning experiences

Localflavours, spectacularviews

A NAVY TOWN

Equimalt is home to Canada’s Pacific Naval Fleet of frigates and support ships and major dockyard operations that support a thriving shipbuilding industry, including one of the biggest drydock facilities on the west coast of North America. Thousands of naval personnel and civilian employees work here. With newly expanded and enhanced exhibits, the CFB Esquimalt Naval and Military Museum charts the rich maritime history of the naval base at Esquimalt, while the heritage of the military on southern Vancouver Island is featured in the west coast defences exhibit. There is something for everyone at Building 20, Naden at CFB Esquimalt.

GALLERIES GALORE

Victoria’s rich and fascinating history is rooted in Indigenous culture stretching back thousands of years, and British and Asian traditions since the mid 1800s. These influences echo proudly through Victoria’s amazing architecture, heritage sites, museums, gardens and a multitude of galleries throughout the south Island. The Art Gallery of Greater Victoria has more than 20,000 works of art, the largest public collection in B.C., and is a vibrant and active part of Victoria’s artist community. 1040 Moss Street.

BUTTERFLY GARDENS

Here’s a vibrant jungle experience with surprises at every turn. At Victoria Butterfly Gardens, you will encounter thousands of tropical butterflies, poison dart frogs, tortoises, large iguanas, flamingos, tropical ducks, free flying tropical birds and more. You’ll also get to experience our Insectarium, featuring impressive insects & invertebrates from around the world. It’s on the way to Butchart Gardens at 1461 Benvenuto Ave.

FISGARD LIGHTHOUSE WITH CANADIAN NAVY DESTROYER NEAR FORT RODD HILL, VICTORIA. ADOBE STOCK

COMICS, GAMES AND COLLECTIBLES

Victoria’s vibrant fan culture and specialized stores attract the creatively inclined of all ages from across the Pacific Northwest. As a hub of innovation and exploring new frontiers, Victoria prides itself on being an open, inspired and welcoming community. Look for Quazar’s Arcade, Legends Comics and Books, Oscar & Libby’s Gifts, Fan Favourites Games, Interactivity Board Game Cafe and Cherry Bomb Toys — home to the Canadian Toy Hall of Fame.

THE BUG ZOO

Welcome to the amazing world of insects and spiders. A visit to this must-see miniature zoo o ers visitors an excellent opportunity to view and experience multi-legged creatures from around the world in a safe, fun and friendly atmosphere. Get up close and personal with live giant walking sticks, alien-eyed praying mantids, stunning tarantulas and glow-in-the-dark scorpions, to name a few. 631 Courtney St.

LEGO MAGIC

THE BREAKWATER

Built more than a century ago, the barrierfree breakwater o ers the perfect spot for an oceanfront stroll to the mouth of Victoria’s harbour. Watch for seals and whales and you may see a fisherman pull in a salmon. At 762-metres, the breakwater is home to Na’Tsa’Maht — The Unity Wall mural that depicts the art of local First Nations.

Making a realistic replica of the Chateau Victoria Hotel and Suites out of 62,000 Lego pieces is impressive in its own right. But what truly sets Glenn Waddingham’s creation apart is the real people depicted at the heart of the downtown hotel. Waddingham, the hotel’s 52-year-old bellperson, populated the hotel with everything from guests on balconies and swimmers in the pool to someone making a marriage proposal, a window cleaner dangling o the side of the building and even a co-worker walking to work with her signature super-sized drink in hand. Stay at the hotel downtown at 740 Burdett Ave. or just drop by to see it. Bonus: The Vista 18 Restaurant has some of the very best views of the city.

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DARREN STONE, TIMES COLONIST

THE DINO LAB

This unique, local business has the pleasure of working with fossils that are millions of years old. It restores, displays and sells dinosaurs.

The specimens have found homes all over the world. Some can be viewed at the Royal Tyrrell Museum, the Royal Ontario Museum, the Houston Museum of Natural Science and the Berlin Natural History Museum, as well as many privately-owned facilities. Book a private tour of the facility to view some of the dinosaurs in our prehistoric gallery, witness the restoration process, and even work on a fossil yourself, using our pneumatic tools. Don’t forget to check out the gift shop on your way out. 491 Dupplin Rd.

Pre-book a tour online at dinolabinc.ca

B.C. AVIATION MUSEUM

Trip Advisor gives the B.C. Aviation Museum at the Victoria International Airport, near Sidney, a top rating.

Get close and personal with more than 30 aircraft in two large hangars, including a Second World War Lancaster bomber. There’s an interactive kid’s zone, artifacts, models, photographs, art work and air-crash relics with entertaining tour guides or self guided visits. See a virtual tour at https://my.matterport.com/ show/?m=B1KwJckNAHZ

GLENN WADDINGHAM BUILT A MODEL OF THE CHATEAU VICTORIA HOTEL IN LEGO.

Craigdarroch Castle

A coal baron's legacy

Avisit to Craigdarroch Castle is a definitively Victorian experience. The Castle is a shining example of a “bonanza castle” — massive houses built for entrepreneurs who became wealthy during the industrial age. In this case, the industrialist was Robert Dunsmuir, a Scottish immigrant who made his fortune from Vancouver Island coal.

This legendary Victorian mansion, built between 1887 and 1890, on a hill overlooking the city of Victoria, announced to the world that Robert Dunsmuir was the richest and most important man in Western Canada. He died in 1889, before he could take residence in the castle, leaving his entire estate to his wife, Joan, who lived in the Castle until her death in 1908.

The immense fortune of the Dunsmuir family is reflected in the four floors of exquisite stained glass windows, intricate woodwork and fabulous Victorian-era furnishings.

Following the death of Joan Dunsmuir, the Castle took on a variety of other roles before becoming a museum in the 1970s.

Craigdarroch Military Hospital opened in September 1919, and was in operation until 1921. It was opened by HRH The Prince of Wales. The next role for the Castle, from 1921 to 1946, was as Victoria College (the predecessor to the University of Victoria). The return of veterans from the Second World War saw the castle run out of room for the college, forcing it to relocate. Shortly after, the castle become o ce for the local school board.

During the 1970s, the Victoria Conservatory of Music made its home at the castle, until they also ran out of space. The Craigdarroch Castle

Historical Society then took over the property and began work to restore it to the time of the Dunsmuirs.

A trip to the castle enables visitors to discover the history at the time of the Dunsmuir family and through its other uses up to the present day.

Adjacent to the castle, the visitor centre combines a beautifully renovated 1913 home with new construction containing an accessible ticketing area at ground level, gift shop and a museum quality climate-controlled basement room to store artifacts and engage in other preservation work.

A trip to Craigdarroch wouldn’t be complete without a stop at the gift shop, where visitors will find a selection of local items, delicious artisan treats, unique crafts and castle memorabilia.

Craigdarroch Castle is located just o of Fort Street, on Joan Crescent, a 20-minute walk from downtown Victoria. Tickets for a self-guided tour, which takes 60 minutes, are available on arrival at the Visitor Centre. Ample parking is located on site. Fort Street is also a bus route and has dedicated bike lanes. Hours and further information are available on the Castle website at: thecastle.ca

The Castle is a historic house museum and, as such, there are no ramps or elevators and it is not wheelchair accessible.

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M. ANDREW ANNUAR

STEPINTO PlacesUnknown

Findyourselfatthebaseofawaterfallinthemorning,andthepeakofamountainin theafternoon.Baskintheserenityofaquietlake,breatheinthecalmoftheforest, orfeelyourheartbeatraceasyouexploreexhilaratingtrails.

WHATWILLYOUEXPERIENCEFIRST? LangfordisKnocking

The Spirit Loop

Incomparable

If

You can start your day anywhere in Langford. Visiting or overnight camping at Goldstream Park is a must. The beautiful setting is matched only by its proximity to some of the best hiking in the area. For a great morning and unparalleled views, take a hike up Mount Finlayson.

Next, make the drive to Sooke Potholes Park. Following the winding birch, Douglas Fir and cedar-lined trail towards Peden Lake, veer o to the Mary Vine Creek waterfall. It’s a short walk (1.8km out and back), but shoes with decent treads are key.

There are plenty of accommodation options to choose from on the journey between Sooke and Port Renfrew, from camping on China Beach to stays at luxurious resorts and B&Bs. Visit SpiritLoop.ca to explore the di erent accommodation options available.

As you continue down West Coast Road on the way to Port Renfrew, a stop at Shirley Delicious is always necessary. The works of local artisans adorn the walls, and you can pick up a sweet treat or a savoury snack. Since you’ve already turned o Highway 14, take the five-minute drive to the Sheringham Lighthouse parking lot. It’s a brisk fifteen-minute stroll to the lighthouse where you can breathe the salt air and take in the ocean views.

Stop at Jordan River to watch the surfers and make your next stop near Port Renfrew at Botanical Beach, which o ers oceanside exploration unlike anywhere else. During the low tide, walk endlessly across the flat sandstone and granite outcroppings to view tide pools and brightly coloured starfish, urchins and mussels.

If you’re stopping in Port Renfrew for the night, be sure to check out some of the local accommodations, including Pacheedaht Campground, where you can camp beachfront. Enjoy a hot meal and cold beer at the Renfrew Pub.

Continuing on the “loop,” make your way down Pacific Marine Road, and you will eventually arrive in Lake Cowichan.

Take in the local sights and attractions as you head towards the Malahat region. Stop in at Merridale Cidery for a flight of ciders and snacks or visit Villa Eyrie and take in the incredible views of Saanich inlet while you enjoy an exquisite meal.

If you can’t get enough of the views, make sure to stop in at the Malahat Skywalk. This new tourism facility opened in 2020 and o ers unparalleled

views atop the Spiral Tower lookout, 250 metres above sea level. The walk to the tower via the TreeWalk boardwalk is an adventure in itself as you walk high above the forest floor, surrounded by arbutus trees. Make sure to try and spot the wood carvings hiding in the trees. Once you’ve made your way to the top of the Skywalk, the only question is whether you’ll walk down or slide down! The 20-metre spiral slide makes for an exciting – and much quicker – exit. The best part? The Welcome Centre, TreeWalk and Skywalk are all wheelchair and stroller friendly.

If you find yourself craving a snack before wrapping up your trip, continue the drive down the Malahat through Goldstream Park and head back into downtown Langford.

Visit SpiritLoop.ca to learn more about the communities of Langford, Sooke, Port Renfrew and Malahat and their amenities.

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LANDON COOPLESTONE

Just a short drive north of Victoria is Canada’s only maritime Mediterranean climactic zone, home to the warmest year-round temperatures in the country. Not only do these temperatures make Cowichan a great year-round place for a visit, but also provides ideal growing conditions for producing amazing artisanal food and drink from burgeoning farms, wineries and cideries.

Food and drink are just the beginning. From outdoor festivals and wildlife experiences to iconic trails and marine adventures, Cowichan features a long list of things to do all year-round.

The name Cowichan is derived from the local First Nation, the Quw’utsun people. It comes from the Hul’q’umi’num word “shquw’utsun” meaning “to warm one’s back in the sun,” which is also why Cowichan is often referred to as The Warmland.

Cowichan Tribes, the largest single First Nations Band in British Columbia, has active knitters, carvers, jewelers, painters and weavers who sell their arts and crafts in the region.

For thousands of years, the Quw’utsun, Malahat, Ts’uubaa-asatx, Halalt, Penelakut, Stz’uminus, Lyackson, Ditidaht and Pacheedaht Peoples have walked gently on the unceded territories where we now visit.

In addition to seasonal temperatures, what makes Cowichan unique is the relaxed, unhurried pace and quiet, natural spots to enjoy it.

Cowichan consists of several charming communities that are rooted in history, agriculture, and adventure.

A mild climate and fertile land are just two of the factors that make Cowichan renowned among foodies as Canada’s Provence. Add in generations of farmers, talented chefs and passionate artisans, and you will find dozens of locally produced dishes, wine, cheese, cider, spirits and beers.

A place as eclectic and beautiful as Cowichan can’t help but attract an equally diverse group of artisans. Outside of the culinary world, the region is also home to many talented painters, potters, sculptors, weavers, glass blowers, knitters and

carvers, whose works can be found in galleries throughout the Cowichan region.

Most notably is internationally acclaimed landscape painter E.J. Hughes, who lived in many parts of the region for more than 50 years. Enthusiasts from all over the world have enjoyed Cowichan’s vistas captured in his works.

There isn’t one single icon that represents Cowichan better than the iconic Cowichan sweater. Woolly, thick and woven to feature Coast Salish motifs, these sweaters and hats are as famous as they are warm.

If outdoor adventures pique your interest, Cowichan provides an abundance of opportunities to see all the natural beauty of the region. There are four mountains for hiking and mountain biking: Mount Tzouhalem, Mount Prevost, Maple Mountain and Cobble Hill Mountain. Mount Tzouhalem is a favourite among local and international mountain bikers of all levels and abilities, while Mount Prevost is a renowned training ground for some of the sport’s best athletes.

For more casual experiences, the 20-kilometre Cowichan River Footpath winds west from Duncan to Skutz Falls, and The Great Trail (formerly known as the Trans Canada Trail) is a hotspot for photographers thanks to the impressive 144-foot Kinsol Trestle.

The warmer, summer months are a great time to get out on the water. There are sea kayaking operators who o er rentals and guided experiences to help you see the most incredible features of Cowichan’s diverse coastline.

Spend a little time getting to know some of Vancouver Island’s most well-known animals. Embark on a whale watching adventure with a resident natural interpreter to learn more about sea life, sea birds and whales. You can also stay inland and visit The Raptors to get up-close with birds of prey like bald eagles and falcons.

What really makes this Warm Land live up to its name is the chill, unhurried pace and the many quiet, unspoiled spots to enjoy it in.

TOURISM COWICHAN

Shhweenustham ‘u tu Quw’utsun Hwulmuhw — The People of the Warm Land welcome you

KINSOL TRESTLE NEAR SHAWNIGAN LAKE

Juan de Fuca Strait

Mill Bay Shawnigan Lake

LADYSMITH Chemainus 19

ALBERNI Gabriola I.

Port Renfrew

Carmanah Pacific Park

SeeForYourselfWhyCowichanIs “Canada’sProvence”

Cowichanisaregionthat’sripewithculinary treasures!Itswarmergrowingconditions, richsoils,andbountifulcoastlinesinspire farm-to-tabledishesthatyouwon’tfind anywhereelse.

It’slittlewonderwhythelateJamesBarber, adistinguishedfoodie,referredtotheregion as“Canada’sProvence”.

Ifyou’recomingtoCowichan,herearea fewmust-tryculinaryexperiences:

Cideries,Wineries,Breweries&Distilleries Cowichanishometooveradozencraft beverageproducers,manywithprestigious awardstotheirname.Sampleacrispapple cider,alivelywine,refreshingIPAorasignaturecocktail.Or,stopbyataphouseand experiencemanydi erentmakersatonce!

Farm-To-Table

Mostofthelocallyownedrestaurantsin Cowichantakefulladvantageofproduce grownjustdowntheroad,bringingunparalleledfreshnesstoeveryplate.

SeafoodReignsSupreme

Scallops,prawns,DungenousCrab,mussels, ifthere’saplaceforfresh,localseafood, it’sCowichan!FromMillBaytoLadysmith, therearesomanygreatrestaurantsthat celebratewhatourlocalwatershaveto o er.Fromfishandchipstoclamchowdersandoverflowing ceasers,theoptions aretrulyendless!

Cowichanisahikingandbikingdestination withahugevarietyofroutesthatrange fromextremeterraintogentlejaunts.

Manyvisitorswilltellyouthatthemain attractioninCowichanisn’titsfamouswine trail,buttheabilitytogetoutonthecountlesshikingandbikingpathsthatcrisscross thearea.

Infact,theCowichanregionhasnoless thanhalfadozenprovincialparkswitha hugevarietyofroutesthatrangefrom “extreme”terraintogentlejauntsaround placid,trout-filledlakes.

MountTzouhalem

Whetheryou’rehikingormountainbiking, MountTzouhalemisagreatplacetoget incredibleviewsoftheCowichanValley. LaunchingfromtheKaspaRdparkinglot, rideorhikeuptothelookoutsforpeek-

a-booviewsoverlookingMapleBayand CowichanBay.Ifyouhaveamountainbike, DoubleDistheregionsmostpopularflow trailthat’sguaranteedtobringasmileto yourface.

CowichanBay

Foramorerelaxedoutdooradventure,head toCowichanBayforacasualwalkaround town.TheCowichanEstuaryTrailisashort 4.2kmout-andbacktrail.Thenmakea stopinCowichanBaytovisittheCowichan EstuaryNatureCentrebeforewalkinginto towntowanderthroughthemarina.

KinsolTrestle

Oneofthemostpopularexperiencesin CowichanisavisittotheKinsolTrestle.The trailprovidesaccessibleadventureforall agesandabilities,soanyonecancheckout the187mtallhistoricwoodstructure!

Cideries,Wineries,Breweries&Distilleries

wHErEtofiNDthEBesTViewsinCowichan

SCANTHEQRCODE FORMORECOWICHAN FOOD&DRINKSPOTS

Small towns, unforgettable places

LADYSMITH

Incorporated at the turn of the century as a mining hub, this quaint town’s downtown core is home to boutiques, bookstores, antique dealers and more eateries than you can shake a stick at. Don’t miss the cherry blossom lined streets and art tours in spring and warm swimming in the ocean in the summer. Transfer Beach Park is home to festivals and is central gathering place for families.

CHEMAINUS

Discover this thriving and colourful community that is home to the famous outdoor murals. Here you’ll find not only fresh sea air and nature trails, but boutique stores, a public market, antiques, cafes, a professional live theatre. Today, there are 63 amazing murals and various sculptures, which can all be viewed on foot, 365 days a year. The themes of the murals vary from Indigenous heritage and logging lore to rail history, nature and immigration. Chemainus is still a small town, so taking a tour of all the artwork can easily be done in a few hours.

CROFTON

Crofton not only looks directly across to Salt Spring Island, but is also home to the ferry that will take you there. Make sure you stroll the seaside boardwalk that begins near the Old School House Museum and features stunning ocean views and lots of cozy benches to sit and enjoy a beautiful sunset across the harbour. The town is home to a thriving paper mill and on a deep-water port that welcomes international ships.

to the Escape Bay

Cowichan Bay is North America’s first Cittaslow designated community, a cultural trend known as the slow movement. In Cowichan Bay, the peaceful, slower pace of the community is there to improve everyone’s quality of life. The community now boasts renowned coastal eateries, artisan shopping, tours and rentals — and is one of Canada’s prettiest coastal villages.

COWICHAN BAY

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DUNCAN

Duncan is Cowichan’s largest community. Make sure you visit the original city centre just west of the highway, where you will discover art galleries, bistros, unique shopping and more. It is also home to one of the world’s largest outdoor totem pole collections, where you can take a self-guided tour. You can also see the world’s largest hockey stick, and visit the Cowichan Performing Arts Centre, a premiere entertainment venue.

The Town of Lake Cowichan is home to the 34-kilometre-long body of freshwater called Cowichan Lake. Central to the region, it has a considerable history and is a paradise by itself, with numerous swimming areas, boat launches, trails, parks and other points of interest. Those in search of freshwater adventures will adore Lake Cowichan and its namesake lake and river, which are known playgrounds for swimming, river tubing and fishing.

LAKE COWICHAN

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Whatever your favourite activity or traveling style, Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands have it all. And with more than 50 breweries to choose from, this region is a craft beer lover’s paradise. The BC Ale Trail has three ale trails on Vancouver Island showcasing extraordinary craft beer communities and the super, natural landscapes that surround them.

The gorgeous and varied landscape supports a diverse variety of outdoor activities—surfing, cycling, kayaking, hiking, camping, skiing, you name it. And what goes perfectly with any of those activities? Visiting a local craft brewery afterwards to sample a few di erent styles of beer, of course.

Each brewery has its own line-up of delicious beer styles, and many of them also o er food prepared in their own kitchens. You can plan a multi-day excursion to visit an assortment of breweries or pick one region and visit all the local breweries over the course of a few days. In some areas, it is easy to cycle between breweries if that is your preferred way of getting around.

B.C.’s craft beer revolution was kicked o when Spinnakers Brewpub opened in 1984 on the shores of Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Spinnakers has a beautiful restaurant with a pub space upstairs and several di erent outdoor patio options. You can even stay in one of their guesthouses.

The beer scene in the capital city on the southern tip of Vancouver Island has expanded considerably since Spinnakers opened. Today, Greater Victoria is home to 18 breweries — and that culture is celebrated annually at events like Victoria Beer Week (May 5-13) and the Great Canadian Beer Festival (September 8-9).

Be sure to look out for Hoyne beers on tap at restaurants or pubs while you are visiting Vancouver Island. The brewery is a local favourite that was founded by Sean Hoyne, who has been brewing in Victoria since 1989. Although it does not have a tasting room, you can pick up some beer to go or fill a growler at the brewery.

The Saanich Peninsula north of Victoria features several interesting breweries, including two of the region’s newest, Beacon Brewing

and Small Gods Brewing, which are located on the same block in seaside Sidney. Just north of Sidney is the Swartz Bay ferry terminal, your gateway to the Southern Gulf Islands, a picturesque archipelago that is home to two breweries, Mayne Island Brewing and Salt Spring Island Brewing. On Salt Spring, there is a brand new shuttle service that stops at the brewery, as well as cideries and other local attractions like the famous Salt Spring Island Cheese Co., where you can enjoy delicious gelato made from goat milk.

Heading southwest from Victoria you will make your way to the town of Sooke, which is home to three breweries, each with its own unique vibe. Bad Dog Brewing is a fun spot nestled in the forest on a quiet road north of “downtown” Sooke. It o ers a range of delicious beers along with food from its own food truck, all of which you can enjoy at picnic tables outside the brewery. And fingers crossed that a new brewery called Checkerhead Brewing will be opening this summer in Shirley, just west of Sooke on the way to Port Renfrew.

BC ALE TRAIL / VANCOUVER ISLAND

As you travel north up Vancouver Island, the Cowichan Valley beckons with its warm, Mediterranean-like climate and a wide range of breweries, including Riot Brewing in Chemainus, which is a popular tourist town because of its murals, theatre and picturesque streets. The small city of Duncan has three breweries to visit, including the Craig Street Brewpub, which is a great option for lunch or dinner.

The charming town of Ladysmith, located just north of Cowichan, has always been an attractive place to visit thanks to its heritage main street (named the best street in Canada for 2017 by the Canadian Institute of Planners) and famously delicious cinnamon buns (baked daily at the Old Town Bakery on that very street). It also has an excellent small brewery, Bayview Brewing, which has become just as famous for its food as it is for its delicious beer.

Nanaimo has several breweries to check out, including the Longwood Brewpub and second location, Longwood Brewery with a tasting room, picnic patio and unique beers on tap. Also Wolf Brewing, and two downtown breweries that are right beside each other: Cli side Brewing and White Sails Brewing.

Just north of Nanaimo, you can check out Rusted Rake Brewing, which is located on a farm where they grow the barley used in the beer, along with many of the ingredients used in the kitchen of their excellent restaurant. Continuing north, the beachside communities of Parksville

and Qualicum Beach boast some of the Island’s best beaches, as well as some great breweries. Both Fern + Cedar Brewing and Mount Arrowsmith Brewing have big tasting rooms and kitchens, while Qualicum’s tiny LoveShack Libations is a unique spot definitely worth a visit.

A side trip out to the wild west coast of the Island on Highway 4 will reward beer lovers.

The mid-Island city of Port Alberni is home to three excellent breweries — Alberni Brewing, Dog Mountain Brewing, and Twin City Brewing, each of which serves great food along with their beers. Twin City was the first to open in this city at the centre of Vancouver Island. It put itself on B.C.'s beer map by winning Best in Show at the 2018 B.C. Beer Awards and then the B.C. Ale Trail’s Best Brewery Experience award in 2020. And if you like pizza, Twin City makes some of the best you will find on the Island.

Continuing west will lead you to Ucluelet Brewing, which is based in a beautifully renovated church. You’ll have to decide for yourself which is better: the gorgeous tap room or the patio with views of Ucluelet Harbour. And no visit to the west coast of the Island would be complete without a stop at Tofino Brewing.

The Comox Valley is home to several breweries, including Ace Brewing and Gladstone Brewing in Courtenay, Land & Sea Brewing and New Tradition Brewing in Comox, and Cumberland Brewing in the town of the same name.

A side trip to Hornby Island takes two ferry trips, one to Denman Island and then a second to Hornby, but your reward will be a chance to visit one of B.C.’s newest and smallest breweries: Hornby Island Brewing.

Continuing north, the next brewery to check out is Beach Fire Brewing in Campbell River, which also has an excellent restaurant featuring delicious pizza and other food. And that leaves Vancouver Island’s northernmost brewery: Devil’s Bath Brewing, located in Port McNeill. The brewery’s name is an homage to a local geographical feature, the Devil’s Bath cenote, which you can also visit on a trip to the area. If you have the time to venture further, travel north via Port Hardy to Holberg and the Scarlet Ibis Pub. Longwood brews some unique house beers for them and you can even spend the night if you can snag one of their micro huts.

Exquisite isolation

Immerse yourself in nature, food, art and the slow pace of the Southern Gulf Islands

Rising from the cool, clear water of the North Pacific, between Vancouver Island and the mainland of British Columbia, you will find a handful of serene, verdant, rolling crowns locals call the Southern Gulf Islands. Here, in a cool Mediterranean micro climate, the days are warmed by good neighbours and West Coast sunshine, hearts are filled with inspiration and nights are sung to sleep by the orcas that call the channels home.

The Islands are flowing with creative artists and organic farmers.

Food and artisan markets are abundant here as part of the Southern Gulf Island’s diverse economy.

Ocean and farm-fresh foods are presented by chefs and food producers who prepare local ingredients with a unique Gulf Islands flair. Find a place to call your own while you’re here. The locals will infuse each minute of your visit with wonder and hospitality. Because islanders live among such abundance, they have a lot to share, including unique shops and boutiques, and spas and healing centres.

Beautifully appointed B&Bs abound in forest, farm or ocean settings, and there are lake-front cabins and cottages for families and groups. Enjoy some of the finest resorts, hotels and spas and, of course, there is camping in private areas and provincial and regional parks.

There is year-round daily service from B.C. Ferries to reach the Southern Gulf Islands. Be sure to plan ahead by checking out access options on B.C. Ferries website, bcferries.com. Island connections can be tricky and, during busy times, guest services and operators may advise you to book your ferry crossing before you book your stay.

The Gulf Island Water Taxi is available Saturdays through the summer providing providing transportation for events such as wine tours, bike tours and market tours. During the summer months, the taxi o ers regular islandhopping routes as a way to promote connections between the Southern Gulf Islands. See www/ gulfislandswatertaxi.com for schedules or visit Aqualink at https://aqualink.ca/schedules/

GARRY OAKS VINEYARD & WINERY

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The Southern Gulf Islands are within traditional unceded territories of the Coast Salish Peoples, including WSÁNEĆ First Nations and the Hul’quimi’num Treaty Group

With its varied landscapes, innovative food scene and abundance of local art and wares, it’s easy to lose yourself in the creativity and adventure of Salt Spring Island.

Find solace in casual strolls on the beach and broad views of the Salish Sea, or nurture inspiration amid the world-class artistry. When you’re done, feed your body and soul with its agricultural bounty and creative provisions. Then rest in the deep silence of a remote escape.

Salt Spring Island has always been a place of refuge, restoration, adventure and creativity. And it is widely known for its beautiful scenery, organic agriculture, large artisan community and

for an emphasis on health and wellness and environmental sustainability.

Salt Spring is a year-round destination for visitors looking to disconnect, find their inspiration or spark for life and develop their inner creative persona.

With a calm temperate climate and an abundance of provincial and regional parks and conservancy lands, you can find solace or adventure in every season.

Hike along the oceanside, through lush rain forests or arbutus groves, up mountains for views over neighbouring islands, through farmland and along forested trails.

Get out on the ocean with a local fishing charter, kayak adventure or whale watching and nature excursion. Hop on a stand-up paddle board or take a dip in one of Salt Spring’s seven fresh water lakes, or grab your golf clubs for a round of the island’s nine-hole course.

Salt Spring’s rural landscape is home to more than 200 working farms. Local produce, meat, seafood, wine and beer can be found in many food establishments featuring farm-to-table delights.

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SALT SPRING ISLAND TEEMING WITH LIFE AND LOVE

GALIANO ISLAND OASIS IN THE SALISH SEA

Welcome to this beautiful, comfortable oasis in the Salish Sea, just a short ferry ride or float plane jaunt from Vancouver or Victoria. Hike, whale watch, fish and golf, then fill up your suitcase with art treasures from local shops. When it’s time to dine and raise a glass to a fine day, you’ll be treated to an array of foodie options. Rest and sleep like a baby. Do it again tomorrow.

Explore ancient forests, rocky heights, sandstone and pebble beaches on Galiano. From boating to hiking, kayaking to mopeds, festivals to whale watching, art shows to golf and fishing to fiestas, Galiano o ers a wide range of experiences.

There is a variety of accommodations, talented artisans, wellness and spa facilities and award-winning restaurants — plus plenty of fresh produce from the island’s organic farms.

PENDER ISLAND

A MIX OF CHARMING, MODERN, PASTORAL

Reset your inner clock to island time when you explore the two islands of Pender.

Find a mix of charming and modern among the lush forests, picturesque coves and beaches, farmlands, rolling hills, lakes and small mountains. Cycle, fish, hike, boat, sail, scuba dive, golf or just relax into a romantic getaway at the resorts, cafes, bistros, bakery, pub, studios and the shops of the Driftwood Centre.

Pender Island has the most public beach access points of any of the Gulf Islands, so it’s easy to fish, launch a kayak or just soak up the sunshine.

Visit the island’s winery and cidery tasting rooms, book a round at the Pender Island Golf and Country Club, hike to the peak at Mount Noman and visit the local museum to find out about the history of rum-running from the nearby U.S. San Juan Islands.

Poet’s Cove Resort and Marina o ers top-rated accommodations and dining and a favourite pub to gather.

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MAYNE ISLAND WHERE TIME SLOWS DOWN AND DISAPPEARS

An energetic and artistic community that strongly supports the buy local movement, Mayne Island is a mix of both the modern and the craft. Lose yourself amid the tremendous diversity of its coastal environment with many opportunities for both peaceful and active pursuits.

Enjoy boating, hiking, biking, nature touring, shopping, dining, beach combing, and just “chillin” at one of many local venues or vistas in this diverse coastal island environment.

Swimmers can enjoy the warm waters of Campbell and Piggott bays, and hikers can reach the 255-metre viewpoint at Mount Parke and use networks of other trails. Catch marine tra c in Active Pass from the historic Georgina Point Lighthouse, and watch for whales.

The island has a variety of accommodations, including resorts with cottages and villas, a privately operated campground, and many B&Bs. The original settlement of Miners Bay is still a thriving hub with shops and services and what is considered the oldest continuously operating hotel in B.C.

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SATURNA ISLAND

ORCA PLAYGROUND

Watch the eagles soar above, the orcas swim past and the sun sink into the sea. Cycle across the island and sleep under the stars. Kayak under the ancient cli s with the creatures of the Salish Sea. Hike along the highest point in the Southern Gulf Islands and see the world from a perspective you’ve never seen before. For a moment, be part of this cozy island family.

Don’t miss East Point and the 1888-built lighthouse, a featured attraction of the 2.5-hectare park. East Point is a part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, one of Canada’s newest national parks, where you can explore the unusual sandstone shoreline and tidal pools and one of the best places in the Gulf Islands to watch for whales during summer.

BROWN RIDGE, SATURNA ISLAND EPIC TRAILS GERALD SITU

Get away from it all: Nothing is the new something

The pursuit and inspiration for the art of doing nothing — or relaxing — has been perfected by visitors to the Southern Gulf Islands long before work-life balance became a thing.

By embracing the tranquil nature of your stay, you’re not only surrendering to your innerlocal, you’re enabling your brain to take a sabbatical from the go-go-go.

So set your in-box to out-of-o ce and try these:

BEST PLACES TO JOURNAL/CHEW ON A PENCIL

■ Switchboard Cafe, Salt Spring Island

■ HUB at Hope Bay, Pender Island

■ Bennet Bay Bistro, Mayne Island

■ Atrevida at the Galiano Inn, Galliano Island

■ Saturna Lighthouse Pub, Saturna Island

BEST PLACES TO WATCH THE SOURDOUGH RISE

■ Francis Bread, Salt Spring Island

■ Happy Monk Baking Company, Pender Island

■ Das Nest, Mayne Island

■ Oxeye, Galiano Island

■ Haggis Farm Baked Goods at the General Store, Saturna Island

BEST PLACES TO SMELL CINNAMON BUNS

■ Mountain View Bakery, Salt Spring Island

■ Oya Butikk, Pender Island

■ Sunny Mayne Bakery, Mayne Island

■ Sturdies Bay Bakery, Galiano Island

■ Saturna General Store, Saturna Island

BEST PLACES TO HUG A TREE

■ Ruckle Park, Salt Spring Island

■ Enchanted Forest Nature Park, Pender Island

■ St. John Point, Mayne Island

■ Bluffs Park, Galiano Island

■ Lyall Creek, Saturna Island

BEST PLACES TO SIT AND STARE INTO SPACE

■ Salty Pear Sauna, Salt Spring Island

■ WOODS on Pender, Pender Island

■ Springwater Lodge Deck, Mayne Island

■ Mount Galiano, Galiano Island

■ The Treehouse, Saturna Island

DIONISIO POINT PROVINCIAL PARK [BOAT ACCESS ONLY] @SOUTHERNGULFISLANDS

Nanaimo

A Natural Wonderland

Stories by Jamie Moore

Nanaimo is central Vancouver Island’s hub for outdoor adventure. Here, the city’s vibrant downtown is just minutes away from all kinds of magical experiences – whale watching, island hopping in the harbour, Indigenous sites and tours, canyon bungee jumping, kayaking excursions, single track mountain biking trails and more.

You’re sure to capture stunning photos of nature along the B.C. Bird Trail and many other places.

Nanaimo’s 360-degree views are magnificent, from the city centre on the harbour front to the forested mountain backdrop just outside downtown.

As you explore the best of the city, you’ll also find unique boutiques, upscale restaurants and fun surprises along both the Nanaimo Bar Trail and B.C. Ale Trail.

Strait of Georgia

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COWICHAN CO

Don’t miss these top things to do:

■ TAKE A WHALE WATCHING TOUR

Hop on an open-air Zodiac inflatable or covered boat charter to see humpbacks and orcas offshore from Nanaimo. Seals, sea lions and eagles are a bonus. Whale sighting rates are over 90% in this area.

■ TASTE THE NANAIMO BAR TRAIL

On this self-guided trail with 40+ stops you can indulge in this legendary Canadian treat in its namesake city. Try an ice cream or latte rendition. There is even a Nanaimo Bar pedicure and other inventive non-edible versions.

■ GO ISLAND HOPPING

In summer, catch a harbour ferry to visit Protection Island’s floating pub or the Indigenous territory of Saysutshun (Newcastle Island) where you’ll find coastal hiking trails, totems, a sandstone quarry, and beaches. Nearby Gabriola Island is a year-round mustsee for artist studios and beaches.

■ STAND IN THE MIST OF WATERFALLS

The cascading Ammonite Falls is your stunning reward at the end of a remote 4.5-km forested trail. Three city parks also feature gorgeous waterfalls right near the parking lot. Other local trails take you to a mountain summit, earthquake fissure and suspension bridge.

■ SAMPLE LOCAL CRAFT BEER

Sip locally inspired microbrews on sunny patios that feature gorgeous views and West Coast fare. Nanaimo’s five craft breweries on the B.C. Ale Trail each offer a different tasting flight experience. Don’t miss the craft distillery and two wineries.

■ STROLL THE SEAWALL PATH

Along the downtown seawall path you can stop for tide-pool exploring, crabbing on the pier, an ice cream cone or a meal as you watch seaplanes and boats come and go. The new Maffeo Sutton Park playground for all ages and abilities includes a custom-designed canoe carved by a local Indigenous artist.

■ INDIGENOUS-DESIGNED JEWELLERY

Check out the downtown shops in the Arts District for the unmistakable designs of local and regional Indigenous artists. The gift shop at the Nanaimo Museum has a great selection of Indigenous art, jewellery, scarves, and other merchandise.

■ PADDLE IN THE HARBOUR

Launch your kayak or rent one and paddle from downtown around Saysutshun (Newcastle Island) as seaplanes take off overhead and you look back to see downtown framed by a Mount Benson backdrop. Watch for purple sea stars, seals, and unique sandstone rock formations.

■ VISIT THE NANAIMO MUSEUM

Walk through a replica coal mine, learn about the local forestry industry, and see what daily life was like in a traditional Indigenous longhouse. Download the free On This Spot app for historic walking tours (including the nearby Nanaimo Bastion) with 400 historic photos.

■ EXPLORE THE FARM & ARTISAN TRAIL

Head just outside city limits and cruise the country roads on this self-guided tour. The Cedar Yellow Point Artisan Trail takes you to artist studios with pottery, woodworking and glass blowing. At farm stops you’ll see honey bees, cranberry bogs, mini animal breeds and more.

■ SWIM IN LAKES, RIVERS AND THE OCEAN

Take a dip in the calm, sandy Westwood Lake or SUP here with kids. Colliery Dam also draws families. There’s a popular rope swing beneath the Island Highway trestle over the crystal clear Nanaimo River. For an ocean swim, try Departure Bay or Pipers Lagoon.

Nanaimo is on the traditional and ancestral lands of the Island Hul’q’umin’um’speaking families of the Snuneymuxw people.

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Unique eats and drinks

Indulge and enjoy at some of Nanaimo’s best

Sip and savour your way around Nanaimo, and you might be surprised by a city of this size. You’ll find quirky delights and sophisticated indulgences.

These nine unique experiences are a fun place to start.

SEAFOOD AT THE VIEW OCEANSIDE GRILL

At this restaurant in downtown’s Best Western Dorchester Hotel, every seafood dish is artfully plated and infused with interesting flavour combinations. Try the sesame-crusted tuna seared medium-rare with a miso drizzle. It’s served with tataki Brussel sprouts and kale slaw on coconut rice.

WHISKEY TASTING AT GRAND CRU

On the shores of Long Lake, The Grand Hotel restaurant’s whiskey lounge is an elegant escape. The display alone is stunning: more than 150 di erent varieties in gorgeous bottles from around the world. Try a tasting flight and let an expert guide you from the sensory experience into the science of critique.

PERSIAN LUNCH AT BEES KNEES CAFE

Run by a Persian family, this little co ee shop is a hidden gem. Most people pop in for a co ee or cinnamon bun, but the lunch is where the family recipes really shine. The made-fromscratch Persian lentil soup and Buddha bowl salad are miles away from ordinary. Check out either of the cafe’s two locations – north Nanaimo or near the university.

CRAFT BEER ON THE B.C. ALE TRAIL

British Columbia is known for its craft breweries and the gorgeous landscapes that surround them. Of the 220+ stops on the BC Ale Trail, five are in Nanaimo and each one o ers a unique experience. Here you’ll find breweries with mountain views, behind-the-scenes tours, European-inspired beers, live music, cozy fireplaces, incredible food and more. Nanaimo is also home to a craft distillery and two wineries

100% VEGETARIAN MENU AT EVE OLIVE

Tucked among a charming collection of shops and restaurants on the Rutherford Road hill in north Nanaimo, Eve Olive restaurant uses 100% plant-based ingredients. The creative and diverse menu is a vegetarian’s dream with multiple renditions of non-meat burgers, pizzas, pastas, curries and salads.

AFTERNOON TEA AT PICCADILLY BISTRO

This gorgeous bistro on Westwood Lake pulls out all the stops for high tea by reservation only. Tiered silver platters burst with all the traditional treats to accompany your tea or champagne: fresh-baked croissants, scones with cream and jam, wild sockeye salmon finger sandwiches, chocolate mousse, macarons and more.

NANAIMO BAR DESSERTS ON THE NANAIMO BAR TRAIL

There are 40+ stops on the Nanaimo Bar Trail with everything from the famous Canadian layered dessert to clever renditions that are deep fried, ice cream, cheesecake, a spring roll, wa e, cocktail and more. Pick up a trail brochure with a map at the Visitor Centre or check tourismnanaimo.com for info on experiencing this treat in its namesake city.

INTERNATIONAL CHEESES AT MCLEAN’S SPECIALTY FOODS

Drop in at this old-style deli for a fun international browse. McLean’s is a downtown landmark packed with specialty food items from the UK, Europe and South Africa, but the cheese is the real treasure — more than 150 varieties with flavours as fantastic as their names.

GLUTEN-FREE BAKING AT WHITE RABBIT COFFEE CO.

There’s a hipster vibe at this modern minimalist co ee shop downtown. Set in Nanaimo’s historic train station, White Rabbit is a favourite among Celiacs. All of the baked items – donuts, mu ns and cookies – are gluten free, organic and made in house from scratch. The entire menu is also vegan.

Eight Great Nanaimo Food Trucks

Indulge and enjoy at some of Nanaimo’s best

Nothing beats the deep-fried splurge and convenience of a food truck.

In Nanaimo you can treat yourself to a surprising variety of mouth-watering options in any season.

Think mini donuts, fresh cotton candy, sliders, tacos and more.

These food trucks are open year-round. Check tourismnanaimo.com or the Nanaimo Food Trucks Facebook group for more info on locations.

ONE COOL COOKIE

Choose your favourite ice cream flavour and your favourite cookie and this dessert truck will build one amazing custom ice cream sandwich for you. Gluten-free, dairy-free or vegan? Those options are here too. Try a baked treat or a specialty co ee made with BC-roasted beans.

THE PEPPER POT

Dive into the fusion of flavours from around the Caribbean and Vancouver Island at this food truck with a taco, wrap, rice bowl or the signature dish: Pepper Pot Brisket Style. Local and seasonal ingredients make everything taste fresh yearround. Gluten-free, vegetarian, vegan, fish and chicken options are all available.

TIPSY AVOCADO

There’s something for every Mexican street food lover at this truck: tacos, nachos with beef, Mexican street corn dogs and churros. The gluten free fish taco in corn batter gets rave reviews, too. Tacos are tasty and colourful with shredded cabbage, salsa fresca and pickled red onions. Don’t miss the deep fried havarti or the polenta fries served with a homemade burrito sauce.

SIP AND SLIDERS

Expect long lineups in summer for this food truck serving mini gourmet burgers, fresh-cut fries and 30+ flavours of milkshakes. All six slider varieties, including the Beyond Meat version, incorporate fresh, local ingredients from MeatCraft butchery and Cobs Bread. Creamsicle, chai tea, lavender peach, and toasted marshmallow are only the tip of the dairy and dairy-free milkshake iceberg here.

SWEET & DANDY COTTON CANDY

This truck’s gourmet, homemade, small batch, fresh spun cotton candy is definitely not the old fashioned standard. The owners have experimented with more than 100 di erent flavours you’ve likely never tried. What’s on the menu this week? Maybe peach, sea salted caramel, dill pickle, maple bacon, pumpkin spice latte, or the cheddar served on a pepperoni stick.

TACOMANIA

The authentic Mexican tacos with slowcooked meat at this food truck are the “Tacomaniac” crowd favourite, but there are GF, vegetarian and vegan options, too. Try the jackfruit carnita (pork) taco braised in a home seasoning blend and topped with fresh cilantro, pickled onions and mango lime salsa. The grilled and breaded fish taco comes with homemade coleslaw. Si, por favor!

DONAIRNUTZ

This food truck serves up the best of both worlds: Donairz & Donutz. No need to make another stop for dessert. Here you can pick up a made-fresh donair (beef and lamb, chicken, or Beyond Meat veggie) and a dish of mini donuts straight out of the deep fryer and topped with cinnamon and sugar, Skor bar, s’mores, poutine or maple bacon.

HARBOUR CITY DONUTS

This signature red Nanaimo food truck serves donuts as delicious as they are adorable. You can choose a classic (glazed, chocolate dip, maple dip) or go fancy: apple fritter, lemon raspberry, maple bacon, Nanaimo bar. The seasonal menu is over-the-top donut heaven with varieties like root beer float, Malibu Barbie, chai, and cranberry white chocolate.

Have some fun!

Nanaimo’s top festivals and events

JULY-AUGUST

CONCERTS IN THE PARK SERIES

This series showcases local musicians against the backdrop of the city’s beautiful park spaces. You can expect a variety of music genres in several di erent outdoor settings throughout the summer. Bring your lawn chair or a blanket. It’s great for the whole family. Where: Various locations. See nanaimo.ca/parks-recreationculture/culture/concertsinthepark

COMMERCIAL STREET NIGHT MARKET

Throughout summer, the Commercial Street Night Market brings the sounds and aromas of summer to downtown Nanaimo with some 200 artisan vendor booths and more than a dozen food trucks. Every week you’ll also enjoy live music and a kids’ zone creating a festive family vibe. Check out the climbing wall, face painting, magicians, ice carving and more.

Where: Commercial Street at Bastion Street nanaimochamber.bc.ca/nanaimo-nightmarket/

JULY

DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL

Witness the unique event of dragon boat racing and cheer on teams as they race in several di erent heats. The weekend’s events also include a market, food trucks, multicultural performances and kids’ activities in the park. On Saturday the breast cancer survivor teams are honoured in a special carnation ceremony and in ceremonial races.

Where: Ma eo Sutton Park. See fgpaddle. com/races/nanaimo-dragon-boat-festival/

MARKET

BEN GIESBRECHT

SILLY BOAT REGATTA

At this crazy event more than 40 teams spend the morning building the silliest of ships at Ma eo Sutton Park then climb in and set sail in the Nanaimo Harbour lagoon in the early afternoon. The regatta is entertaining to watch and usually raises more than $100,000 for the Nanaimo Child Development Centre. Where: Ma eo Sutton Park’s Swy-A-Lana Lagoon. See sillyboat.com

NANAIMO MARINE FESTIVAL & GREAT INTERNATIONAL WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP BATHTUB RACE

This proud local tradition since 1967 sees serious competitors in modified bathtub boats racing for the coveted title. The 58-kilometre race starts and ends at Ma eo Sutton Park downtown, and the festival activities span the weekend with a parade, outdoor concerts and food and artisan vendors. Where: Ma eo Sutton Park. See bathtubbing.com

AUGUST

NANAIMO BLUES FESTIVAL

This highly anticipated annual festival includes four days and nights of family friendly outdoor concerts and events celebrating the best in blues music. Where: Ma eo Sutton Park. See nanaimoblues.ca

NANAIMO FRINGE FESTIVAL

This festival of music, drama and comedy performances entertains audiences at theatres and outdoor venues across the city. Performers are emerging theatre artists from Central Vancouver Island and farther afield. Where: Various locations. See nanaimofringe.com

VANCOUVER ISLAND EXHIBITION (VIEX)

Nanaimo’s Beban Park fills with crowds for this popular summer fair. The three-day event celebrates the best in agriculture, local food and live entertainment from across Canada. Enjoy cotton candy, carnival rides, barns filled with 4-H animals, outdoor concert stages, and more. Where: Beban Park. See viex.ca

SEPTEMBER

NANAIMO INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL

Local and international jazz artists perform at multiple venues in downtown Nanaimo during this three-day festival. Where: Various locations. See nanaimojazzfest.ca

DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL MIKE ANDERSON

TIM MCGRATH

ETHAN KLAEBOE

Outdoor adventure destination

You’ve come to the right place.

Nanaimo’s outdoor playground is unparalleled. There are adventures here that you’ll tell stories about for a lifetime. Choose from fun activities in a variety of stunning local settings – on the ocean, a mountain, river canyon, lake or in the mist of a waterfall.

TAKE A WHALE WATCHING TOUR

Ever wondered what it’s like to see whales blowing and skimming across the ocean waters? Head out with Vancouver Island Whale Watch on a tour and keep your eyes peeled for orcas, humpback whales and other marine mammals.

SHRED SOME SINGLETRACK

Bring your own bike and gear or stop by a local outfitter and get yourself trail-ready. With three major trail networks all at various levels, Nanaimo delivers big-air jumps, drops, adrenaline-spiked singletrack, and plenty of casual XC trails for cruising.

ZIP-LINE OVER THE CANYON

Thrill-seeking travelers can take on heartpounding challenges with adventure courses, bungee jumping and zip-lining through the treetops in the beautiful Nanaimo River canyon at WildPlay. Kids as young as five years old can try the adventure courses.

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SEE THE SEALS & SHIPWRECKS

Did you know Nanaimo is home to sunken navy vessels? With one in Departure Bay and two just outside the bay, these artificial reefs now covered in marine life are a big draw for scuba divers. Seals also haul out on nearby islands.

CLIMB A MOUNTAIN

Stand tall after climbing 1,000 metres to the peak of Mount Benson, and feel the immensity of the full-circle view. Want a quicker fix? Take the five-minute hike up Sugarloaf Mountain in Departure Bay for vast views over the harbour and city.

PADDLE IN PROTECTED WATERS

Take a multi-day excursion or circle Saysutshun/Newcastle Island in a kayak or canoe. Glide alongside amazing rock formations and see seals, sea stars, crabs and anemones in the clear water. The Dinghy Dock Pub on Protection Island is a great paddle-up pit stop.

GO CRABBING & FISHING

Put down a crab trap at Ma eo Sutton Park’s fishing pier for Dungeness crab or head out on a salmon fishing charter. Freshwater anglers can explore Nanaimo’s many lakes (several of which are stocked regularly with trout) and the Nanaimo River.

FEEL THE MIST OF WATERFALLS

It’s a gorgeous hike to the cascading Ammonite Falls on a lush forest trail (4.5 km), where the spray thunders in spring and fall. Closer to downtown, check out the waterfalls at Beach Estates Park, Bowen Park and Colliery Dam.

EXPLORE INDIGENOUS HISTORY

Hop the foot ferry from Ma eo-Sutton Park to Saysutshun Island/Newcastle Marine Park, a traditional First Nation territory, to see village sites, sandstone quarries, totems, scenic lookouts and sandy beaches. Camping is a fun option here.

HIT THE BEACH

Nanaimo’s long oceanfront makes it an ideal place for swimming, windsurfing, and snorkeling. Head to ocean parks such as Pipers Lagoon, Departure Bay, Neck Point, and Swy-A-Lana Lagoon. For freshwater swimming, Westwood Lake and Long Lake are local favourites.

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DAVE SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY

WelcometotheOldCityQuarter,locatedsteps fromNanaimo’sDowntowncore.Thiseclecticneighbourhood boastsavibrantcommunityofindependentbusinessesfrom specialtyboutiquestoprofessionalservicestotop-notch eateries.Comesupportlocalandexperiencethehidden culturalgemofNanaimo.

Originallytheeconomiccentreofthecity,theareaisa charmingmixofrevitalizedheritagebuildingsandthoughtful newdevelopment.Thecharmandcharacterofheritage architecture,walkablestreetsandunexpectedartfulness providestheperfectbackdropforauniqueshoppingand diningexperience.

LearnmoreabouttheOldCityQuarter,where vibrancyandculturethriveatwww.oldcityquarter.com

The ‘Isle of the Arts’

Day trip to Gabriola Island

A25-minute car ferry from downtown Nanaimo whisks you away to one of the Gulf Islands – Gabriola Island. This ‘Isle of the Arts’ has one of the highest number of artists per capita in Canada. Visit the studios and explore the hangouts and natural wonders that inspire these artists.

HERE’S AN ITINERARY TO HELP YOU PACK MANY OF THE ISLAND’S HIGHLIGHTS INTO ONE DAY

■ Your first stop is for a photo op at Malaspina Galleries, Gabriola’s favourite natural wonder. This dramatic sandstone rock formation at the ocean’s edge looks like a frozen wave. Walk inside the ‘wave’ or snorkel below.

■ Next, browse the outdoor Saturday Farmer’s Market at Agi Hall for locally grown produce and handmade treasures.

■ On Sundays, head to the Silva Bay Market. Both run from late May through early October.

■ Do lunch like a local with a sandwich or wrap made in-house at Mad Rona’s Coffee Bar. This buzzy community hub has an urban West Coast vibe with high ceilings, natural wood finishes, bar seating, couches and tables.

■ In the afternoon, either hit the beautiful sandy beach at Gabriola Sands Provincial Park or drive to the island’s south end to take in the ocean views at Drumbeg Provincial Park where, on a clear day, you can see Washington State’s majestic Mount Baker.

■ Watch for harbour seals and bald eagles on this short forest walk along the seashore.

■ The island is also home to miles of other spectacular hiking and biking trails, fishing charters and kayaking adventures.

■ Then meet the locals when you take a tour with hard cider tastings at Ravenskill Orchards or learn to Make Cheese With Paula.

■ No visit to the island is complete, though, without visiting the island’s many artist studios and meeting the artists who live here.

■ At some point you’ll also likely cross paths with the other locals – wild turkeys and deer in the road or alpacas on a roadside farm.

■ Before catching the ferry back to Nanaimo, go for dinner at Woodfire Restaurant and try the gourmet wood-fired pizza. Or, dine at the Surf Lodge & Pub where you can see an unforgettable sunset over the ocean. Raise a pint with an order of fish and chips or curry to close out your Gabriola day like a local.

GALASPINA ROCK GALLERY AT GABRIOLA ISLAND ADOBE STOCK

Three Great Days in Nanaimo

Here’s an itinerary packed with places the locals like to go

These three jam-packed days include quirky cafes, hidden waterfalls, beaches with incredible sunsets, and pubs with character … favourite places where locals take their friends and family when they come to visit.

DAY 1

Start your day downtown a bit o the beaten path. The eclectic Vault Cafe is a non-touristy spot that fills with the buzz of locals meeting up for breakfast.

After a lox bagel or breakfast wrap, walk to the waterfront walkway and watch float planes and boats in the harbour.

Circle back to Commercial Street and browse shops for clothing, jewellery, art and home decor before lunch at Gabriel’s Cafe, known for its fresh, farm-to-table goodness.

Then hit the Doumont Road mountain biking trails with technical and beginner singletrack that cuts through beautiful, lush forests.

For dinner, go for wood-fired pizza at La Stella Trattoria downtown in the Old City Quarter.

Finish the day with live music and dancing at The Queen’s downtown.

DAY 2

Early risers, head to Departure Bay Beach for the sunrise with a warm drink in hand from Drip Co ee across the street. You might also see morning swimmers, float planes and the Vancouver ferry in this busy bay.

Don’t miss the indigenous totems and historic interpretive panels.

Next, hike the moderate Ammonite Falls Trail to the cascading waterfall and feel the mist on your face.

On sunny summer days locals head to Penny’s Palapa on the wharf docks for fish tacos.

From here you’re just steps away from the departure point for a Vancouver Island Whale Watch tour, where whale sightings are guaranteed.

For dinner, pick up pulled pork sandwiches or ribs at Smokin’ George’s and picnic while you watch the sunset at Pipers Lagoon Park.

Finally, raise a glass to a great day and sip local craft beer at the White Sails Brewing taproom.

DAY 3

Begin your day at Bee’s Knees Cafe with a decadent cinnamon bun topped with blueberry cream cheese made in-house.

Spend the morning at WildPlay, where you can zipline over the Nanaimo River Canyon or harness up for the treetop adventure course’s tightropes, cargo nets, and rope swings.

Enjoy lunch at a British-style Crow and Gate Pub set in a Tudor-style home among English gardens.

Cruise the country roads to the nearby Yellow Point Farms for a visit with goats, sheep, mini donkeys, mini horses, and kune kune pigs.

Dinner is a mini getaway that begins with a short ferry ride from the downtown harbour to Protection Island’s Dinghy Dock Pub, a fun restaurant (with a family section) right on the dock.

After dinner, catch a stunning sunset over the ocean at Neck Point Park.

Before turning in for the evening, soak your tired muscles in the hot tub or wave pool at the Nanaimo Aquatic Centre.

JORDYN GIESBRECHT

For the love of water

One of the major reasons to love Nanaimo is that no matter where you are in the city you’re always close to water. Access to the ocean, river and several lakes is quick and easy. Here are some ways water lovers can enjoy their happy place during a visit to Nanaimo.

ISLAND HOPPING

Passenger-only ferries shuttle you to the two large islands in Nanaimo’s harbour: Protection Island and Saysutshun (Newcastle Island).

Go for dinner on Protection Island’s floating Dinghy Dock Pub & Restaurant then walk to the black sand beach at Gallows Point.

On Saysutshun you can explore historic sites with an Indigenous knowledge keeper or go beachcombing on the beautiful beaches.

KAYAKING & SUP

Launch your SUP or take a guided kayak tour around the islands in Departure Bay and the Nanaimo Harbour.

You’ll learn about the Indigenous and coal mining history as you pass by significant locations. You’ll also glide through cavelike areas and below otherworldly rock formations as you watch for harbour seals, purple sea stars, and anemones.

If you have your own gear, launch at Departure Bay Beach or the boat ramp and paddle to a waterfront restaurant or pub.

SHIPWRECK SCUBA DIVING

Three sunken navy vessels – a tugboat, destroyer and a Second World War maintenance vessel – are now beautiful artificial reefs covered in marine life just o of Nanaimo’s shores. There’s a lot to see among them: fore and aft guns on the decks, a crow’s nest, and several species of marine life including octopus, ling cod, wolf eels, swimming scallops, feather stars and plumose anemones.

GabriolaIslandisjust22minutesbyferryfromNanaimo

SAYSUTSHUN FERRY ALEXANDER STICKEL

Go For it!

■ SUP, fishing and swimming at Westwood Lake

■ Exploring Shack Island at Pipers Lagoon Park at low tide

■ Fish ‘n chips on the dock at Fisherman’s Wharf downtown

■ Watching salmon spawn in the Millstream River at Bowen Park

■ Snorkelling and seeing crayfish in the Nanaimo River

■ Seeing the surging Dodds Narrows on the Cable Bay Trail

■ Indigenous totems and portal at Departure Bay Beach

■ Wildplay’s bungee jump and zipline over the Nanaimo River

■ Windsurfing or kitesurfing along the shore at Pipers Lagoon

WHALE WATCHING

Take a three- to five-hour tour on an open Zodiac or semi-covered boat for a chance at that magical moment when you see an orca, humpback or gray whale in the wild.

The success rate for finding whales in this area is higher than 90 per cent.

An onboard marine naturalist gives you the rundown on the behaviours you’ll observe of these and other marine mammals you might encounter: harbour seals, sea lions and more.

FISHING & SAILING

Fishing charters run year-round and the peak months for salmon are May through September.

Winter salmon fishing is often paired with prawn fishing and crabbing. Bonus: It’s not uncommon to see black bears or whales on fishing and sailing charters.

Catamaran sailing tours can be customized for what you’d like to see. Tossing in a crab trap along the way is also a possibility.

SALTWATER FISHING NEAR NANOOSE BAY TOURISM VANCOUVER ISLAND/BEN GIESBRECHT

Explore Indigenous history on Saysutshun

Catch the harbour ferry from downtown’s

Ma eo Sutton Park to Saysutshun

Marine Provincial Park (Newcastle Island), the traditional Indigenous territory of the Snuneymuxw Peoples.

There are no roads or cars on this island in the Nanaimo Harbour, but you can easily explore the nature, history and Coast Salish culture by foot or bike in a day or half day.

A passenger ferry runs from late spring to early fall.

■ Hike or bike the forested Coastal Trail (8 km) around the perimeter, stopping for scenic lookouts with views of the Salish Sea and Coastal mountains, sandy beaches, and interpretive signs.

■ Go for ice cream. Kids love the snack bar at the island’s restored 1930s dance pavilion.

■ See historic sites from several eras. There are Snuneymuxw village sites and totems, sandstone quarries, a herring saltery and coal mine sites. Learn more on a walking tour with a Snuneymuxw knowledge keeper.

■ Spend the day on the sandy beach. Swim in protected, shallow waters or explore tide pools, overturning rocks to see flowery anemones and scurrying crabs.

■ Kayak around the island. Take in the unique sandstone formations along the shoreline at eyelevel and look for purple sea stars in the shallows.

■ Pitch a tent. Book one of the 18 forested campsites just a five-minute walk from the docks and you can wake up to the sunrise over the ocean, flush toilets and hot showers included.

■ Watch for rare raccoons. Saysutshun is home to rare champagne-coloured raccoons whose light hue is due to a recessive gene. Kayakers occasionally spot them digging for clams on beaches.

THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO

The Nanaimo area is the traditional territory of the Coast Salish Peoples called the Snuneymuxw First Nation. They established villages on the island of Saysutshun and along Departure Bay, the Nanaimo River, and False Narrows (near Gabriola Island). Snuneymuxw people lived on Saysutshun in late winter and early spring to take advantage of the annual herring run. The island is also a source of traditional natural medicines and has long been associated with physical and spiritual healing.

DEPARTURE BAY INDIGENOUS PORTAL

The massive wooden structure near the beach marks the site of the burial ground and winter village where the Snuneymuxw people lived until the mid1800s. Interpretive signage along the beach walkway includes stories of the Indigenous people.

KI-ET-SA-KUN BRONZE BUST

Near the downtown waterfront walkway you can see the bronze bust of former chief of Snuneymuxw First Nation Ki-et-sa-kun, who in 1849 told the Hudson’s Bay Company about Nanaimo’s rich coal deposits.

HANDCRAFTED INDIGENOUS JEWELLERY

At the Strong Nations store you’ll find beaded earrings made by local Metis Nation youth. A new generation is learning the traditions and receiving the profits. The Nanaimo Museum gift shop also sells beautiful Coastal Indigenous-designed jewellery, carvings and other merchandise.

SNUNEYMUXW EXHIBIT AT NANAIMO MUSEUM

Check out the textiles, basketry and tools once used by the early Snuneymuxw First Nation and learn about what daily life was like in a traditional longhouse. You can also see replicas of ancient local petroglyphs and make a rubbing to take home.

Go Deep

A caving adventure thousands of years in the making

If you’re ready to make some lasting memories in 2023, a trip to Horne Lake Caves should be high on your adventures-to-do list.

Located on central Vancouver Island, a one-hour drive north of Nanaimo, Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park is a gateway to a whole new underground world. The Cave Park o ers a unique opportunity to explore the depths of the earth and discover its wonders.

Considered one of the premier cave systems in Canada, visitors can satisfy their curiosity in this underground playground. With options from mild to wild, a guided tour of the caves provides adventure seekers a fascinating glimpse of the ancient and mysterious realm that lays hidden beneath the Island’s lush temperate rain forest.

Horne Lake Lake Caves Provincial Park, a unique experience where you can tour caves to view fossils, crystal formations and wildlife, was honoured by Destination B.C. with the inaugural Remarkable Experiences Award and has also been recognized as the Best Natural Outdoor Site in B.C. and a No. 1 attraction by TripAdvisor reviewers.

Whether it’s adventure-date time with a special someone, or you are looking for a memorable experience to share with the family, the park invites you to come and experience the underground wonderland at Horne Lake Caves.

Parksville’s refreshing scenery and calm beaches have made it a timeless favourite for relaxation seekers and young families.

Few beaches outside Mexico and the Caribbean compare with the kilometres of serene sandy beaches at Parksville Bay and Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park. Practice some green therapy strolling Rathtrevor’s quiet seaside trails and get pampered at B.C.’s No. 1-rated spa, the Grotto Spa at Tigh-NaMara Resort.

Parksville’s Community Park really is a gathering place for all who live and visit.

Just up from the beach is Parksville’s downtown. Ask a local to point you toward one of the many restaurants and modern boutiques. Browse shops selling soaps, sustainable local products and rustic beach decor.

NANOOSE BAY

Nanoose Bay is located on the south end of the Parksville Qualicum Beach region and is home to Fairwinds Golf Club, Pacific Shores Resort, marinas and fishing charters, recreation facilities and hidden beaches.

FRENCH CREEK

Situated halfway between Parksville and Qualicum Beach on Vancouver Island’s Oceanside Route Highway 19A, French Creek is a bustling marine community. French Creek is a popular marina for its central location. There is a federal dock with facilities for visiting boaters, moorage, fresh seafood sales and charter companies. You will also find the Marine Pub here, as well as home base for the walk on ferry over to Lasqueti Island.

QUALICUM BEACH

What a quaint town! It’s a phrase residents hear a lot. And it’s true. Explore downtown Qualicum Beach and find unique, independent boutiques, shops, galleries, cafés and restaurants with no big-box stores in sight. The streets are lined by traditional architecture and there is always a colourful array of flowers, trees, planters and gardens found on every corner.

Experience the magic of Milner Gardens and Woodland — 28 hectares of unspoiled natural beauty steeped in royal history perched on the edge of an oceanfront blu overlooking the Strait of Georgia. Visit the Qualicum Beach Museum, featuring an extensive and renowned paleontology exhibit as well as expanding First Nations and social history exhibits.

ARROWSMITH COOMBS COUNTRY

South and west of Parksville is Arrowsmith Coombs Country, named after towering Mount Arrowsmith. The mountain is partially responsible for the enviable micro-climate surrounding Parksville Qualicum Beach. Walk or ride between Coombs and Parksville on the Rail Trail.

Arrowsmith Coombs Country is a collection of rural communities including Coombs, Errington, Hilliers, Meadowood and Whiskey Creek. Peruse local produce and crafts at the Errington Farmer’s Market at the Community Park, next to the War Memorial Hall on Errington Road. Englishman River Falls Provincial Park is a highlight for many visitors to this part of the region where they find easy wilderness hiking and spectacular waterfalls. Surely visitors to the area have heard of the goats on the roof. Coombs Old Country Market is where you will find them. The shops in this area can best be described as eclectic.

LIGHTHOUSE COUNTRY

North of Qualicum Beach you will discover the charming and rustic Lighthouse Country. Named for the lighthouses on Sisters Island and Chrome Island, the region includes the communities of Dashwood, Qualicum Bay, Dunsmuir, Bowser and Deep Bay.

Lighthouse Country’s unpretentious small inns, bed & breakfasts and campgrounds cater to visitors looking for a quiet retreat that’s o the beaten path.

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Magic of sand sculptures

The Parksville Beach Festival — a summerlong celebration of sand, art, music and food — promises fun in the sun at the Parksville Community Park located along the city’s vast stretch of ocean sand.

Starting with the world-renowned signature event, the Quality Foods Sand Sculpting Competition, opening weekend is July 14, 15 and 16 with the sculpture exhibition open until Aug. 20. This ever-popular event features a 30-hour competition between 29 international master sculptors. Working with this year’s sculpting theme, Wonders of the World, sculptors begin by pounding sand on Thursday, July 13 to create the sculpting base that is so essential to a successful sculpture.

Public entry to the competition begins July 14 and the judging takes place July 16. Awards and cash prizes are presented to the top three doubles and the top five soloists, in addition to peer-selected awards and people’s choice prizes.

The sculptures are available for viewing from July 17 through to Aug. 20, and admission is by suggested donation of $5 per person.

Since 1999, the Parksville Beach Festival Society has donated close to $1 million from the gate proceeds to non-profit organizations and community projects.

Start planning your visit today at parksvillebeachfest.ca and see you at the beach.

THE 5 ½ WEEK-LONG FAMILY-ORIENTED BEACHFEST ALSO INCLUDES:

■ Free Weekend Evening Concerts

July 21, 22, 28, 29 and Aug. 4, 5, 18, 19

Bring your blanket or lawn chair and enjoy a variety of free musical entertainment.

■ Art in the Park July 22 and 23

Artisans from across Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands will showcase their creative talents and products in the shaded grassy areas of Parksville Community Park.

■ Rock the Park Music Festival Aug. 11 to 13

A three-day ticketed music festival featuring world-class tribute bands as well as perennial favourites.

■ Quality Foods Festival of Lights Aug. 12

The fun begins at sundown with spectacular fireworks simulcast to music at the beach.

■ Sculpture Light Up! Aug. 18 and 19

For two nights only the Sand Sculpture Exhibition is illuminated and open after dark, until 11 p.m.

■ Vancouver Island Symphony Aug. 20

New for 2023, enjoy an afternoon concert in the park at the Parksville Outdoor Theatre featuring the Vancouver Island Symphony.

Amazing

Alberni Valley

Mountains, lakes, rivers and a mighty ocean inlet make it a recreational mecca

Aprized fishing and water sports destination at the centre of Vancouver Island, Port Alberni is the perfect hub for exploring a vast swath of the Island.

The Alberni-Clayoquot Regional District is a large and diverse area of more than 6,600 square kilometers centrally located on the west side of Vancouver Island. It is bordered by the Beaufort Mountain Range to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west.

THERE ARE SO MANY REASONS TO VISIT:

■ The highest vertical drop waterfall in Canada, Della Falls, is located at the western end of Great Central Lake near Port Alberni.

■ Canada’s first female prime minister, Kim Campbell, was born in Port Alberni in 1947.

■ In 1860, the first sawmill in what became British Columbia, was constructed in Port Alberni; it began the significant forest industry economic activity in the Alberni Valley which continues to this day.

■ In 1902, the Bamfield cable station near Port Alberni was constructed as the western terminus of a worldwide undersea telegraph cable.

■ Port Alberni has been designated as the Salmon Capital of the World and the World Fishing Network’s Ultimate Fishing Town. Be sure to catch the Port Alberni Salmon Derby on Labour Day this year and see some big salmon.

■ Port Alberni is a unique and friendly enclave where you can experience an engaging blend of outdoor and indoor activities and attractions. Only 193 kilometres (120 miles) from the provincial capital, the city boasts a magnificent, deep-sea port at the head of the Alberni Inlet opening into Barkley Sound and the Pacific Ocean.

■ The city, and surrounding valley, enjoys a moderate climate and is well-known for its breathtaking scenery. Surrounded by mountains, freshwater lakes and streams, the area is wildly popular for its salmon sport-fishing, scuba diving, kayaking, windsurfing, boating, waterskiing/ wakeboarding, hiking, mountain biking, ATVing, golfing and wildlife viewing.

VICTORIA QUAY

VICTORIA

QUAY

Victoria Quay is a popular waterfront park, picnic area, walkway and retail district on the Somass River at the foot of Johnston Road (Highway 4). Two towering welcome figures, carved by local Hupacasath First Nations carvers, greet you and the park is home to a weekly Sunset craft market during the summer months. The welcome centre features a First Nations whaling monument and is a perfect place to absorb some of the rich history of the First Nations peoples in this region. Victoria Quay is also the prime location to view black bears across the river in the Somass Estuary.

ALBERNI

VALLEY MUSEUM

Explore our heritage and discover what makes Port Alberni tick. Discover collections that tell the story of community history, Nuu Chah Nulth art and culture and our industrial roots from logging to fishing and farming — and see our unique folk art.

MCLEAN MILL HISTORIC SITE

McLean Mill Historic Site is an ever-growing allseason park nestled in a beautiful forest setting. Tourists and locals alike can come and bike through second growth forest, walk among giant trees, camp under starry skies and learn about our history as a logging town. You will see the old original buildings and lots of restored logging equipment around the site including a steam donkey, logging trucks, graders and lumber carriers.

MARITIME DISCOVERY CENTRE

Experience the rich maritime history of the Alberni Valley, Alberni Inlet, Barkley Sound and Vancouver Island’s rugged west coast. Port Alberni’s Maritime Discovery Centre, constructed from a lighthouse, is a unique maritime museum, situated on the waterfront adjacent to the city’s deep-sea harbour. With its companion Hutcheson Gallery, this museum is dedicated to exhibiting and interpreting our fascinating cultural, environmental and industrial maritime history.

STAMP FALLS PROVINCIAL PARK

In late summer or early fall, head to the park’s Stamp Falls. Watch as thousands of Pacific salmon circle in the pool below the falls before ascending fish ladders on their way to spawning beds. Just 20 minutes from Port Alberni, this provincial park is also a great place for family day trips or summer camp-outs.

First Nations

SPROAT LAKE AND TAYLOR ARM PROVINCIAL PARKS

If you love the water, Sproat Lake is one of B.C.’s finest freshwater lakes for water sports such as swimming, water-skiing, tubing, canoeing, kayaking, swimming and windsurfing. Two separate parks with campgrounds and large dayuse areas make this lake a popular destination for campers and picnickers alike. A variety of short access trails lead visitors around the Sproat Lake Provincial Park, including a trail to the eastern end of Sproat Lake, which is home to one of the finest panels of prehistoric petroglyphs in British Columbia. Sproat Lake is located 15 minutes west of Port Alberni.

The city of Port Alberni boundary lies within the traditional territories of the Hupacasath and Tseshaht

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STUNNING SUNSET OVER PORT ALBERNI ADOBE STOCK

PETROGLYPHS AT SPROAT LAKE

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PORT ALBERNI HOLE IN WALL

Ocean paradise

The power of the Pacific awakens the senses

The pounding rhythm of ocean waves, beautiful stretches of sand beaches, ancient trees and abundant wildlife will leave lasting memories.

On the remote west coast of Vancouver Island, within the traditional territory of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nations, sits the village of Tofino, Canada’s Surf Town. Nestled in the heart of the Clayoquot Sound UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Tofino is a prime destination for year-round surfing, beach time, exquisite restaurants and exploring the outdoors for anyone seeking inspiration from the wild.

You will find cozy cabins, bed and breakfasts, vacation homes, hostels, campgrounds and renowned resorts.

Nearby, in Ucluelet, small-town charm meets the unbridled power of nature.

Ucluelet (pronounced you-clue-let) is a First Nations word for safe harbour and visitors flock here

for its breath-taking scenery and world-class resorts and dining. These are the traditional lands of the Toquaht and Ucluelet First Nations. Enjoy the Wild Pacific Trail, a family-friendly pathway that runs along the rocky and rugged Pacific Coast and provides incredible views of the Broken Group Islands, Barkley Sound and Amphitrite Point. The trail has two main sections. The 2.6-kilometre Lighthouse Loop, combined with the adjoining Terrace Beach Interpretive Trail, takes an easy grade along the coast and inland hills and includes the site of an ancient First Nations canoe beach. The Big Beach to Rocky Blu s route (five kilometres one way) is a moderate hike with small hills and stairs. The final loop o ers cli side views of rocky headlands, and a smaller loop meanders through ancient cedars and sitka spruce.

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is nestled in the traditional territories of the Nuu-chah-nulth Peoples, which includes 14 First Nations

PACIFIC PERFECTION

■ Stroll the perfect beaches and explore dense coastal rain forest on winding boardwalk trails at Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Marvel at the riot of life in inter-tidal zones and paddle out to one of the world’s best kayaking and wilderness camping spots in the Broken Group Islands. The national park spans three distinct sections along 130 kilometres of pristine West Coast Terrain.

■ Long Beach is world famous for its vast, sandy beaches within Wickaninnish and Florencia Bays. It features boardwalks twisting through lush forests, waves for the beginner or avid surfer and dazzling sunsets.

■ Broken Group Islands is accessible only by boat and you can paddle through more than 100 islands in the middle of Barkley Sound, visiting forested islands and shell beaches in this stunning archipelago, which contains many sites of spiritual and cultural significance.

LIVING CULTURE

■ The awe-inspiring coastal landscape of the Pacific Rim region remains integral to the livelihood and heritage of the Nuu-chah-nulth people. Pacific Rim National Park Reserve and First Nations partners are working together to continue the age-long practice of welcoming and sharing Nuu-chah-nulth history, traditions and culture with visitors.

■ Take a self-guided interpretive walk along the Nuu-chah-nulth Trail and learn about the land and seas so essential to the Nuuchah-nulth peoples’ survival. Marvel at the unique, handcrafted totem pole depicting the land (bear with salmon), sea (orca) and sky (thunderbird) of this beautiful area.

■ The Kwisitis Visitor Centre is perched on the south end of Wickaninnish Beach. The outside deck is the perfect year-round spot to view whales, storms and surfers. Inside the centre, there are exhibits about the land, sea, sky and people. Listen to stories, see a replica of a longhouse and go on a whale hunt. Examine the tracks of bear, wolves and cougars that prowl the beaches for food. And find out how salmon nurture the rain forest.

■ There are three First Nations cohabiting Clayoquot Sound — (Ahousaht, Hesquiaht and Tla-o-qui-aht). These Nations are part of the Nuu-chah-nulth Nations and share a long history in this area with a common connection to the land, animals and sea.

A GUIDED BLACK BEAR WATCHING TOUR WITH CLAYOQUOT WILD

A COUPLE ENJOYS BOUTIQUE SHOPPING IN UCLUELET A COUPLE ENJOYING

SURF LESSON WITH THE PACIFIC SURF COMPANY

Roaming Pacific Rim

Hike to your heart’s content

LONE CONE TRAIL

For those in search of a challenge, the Lone Cone Trail will deliver. Located on Meares Island, the trail is only accessible by boat and is notorious for being gruelling, yet rewarding. A true wilderness day-long trek, hikers should be prepared with plenty of water, good footwear, emergency gear and some snacks for along the way.

SPRUCE FRINGE TRAIL

The Spruce Fringe Trail is the perfect 1.5-km loop to both educate and awe you. The botanical life of the beautiful Sitka Spruce forest is revealed through a number of educational signs.

RADAR HILL TRAIL

Catch the stunning view of the Clayoquot Sound and Long Beach. Although parking is available at the top, those looking to earn the view can always park at the bottom and walk up the hill for a slight challenge. Originally, Radar Hill was a station in the Pinetree Line Defense System used to warn North America of incoming airstrikes during the Second World War. The Kap-Yong Memorial, which honors the 2nd Battalion Princess Patricia’s Canadian Light Infantry for their service in the Korean War, is also located here.

FLORENCIA BAY TRAIL

Leading to one of the Island’s favourite beaches, the Florencia Bay Trail is short but sweet. Lacing its way through a stunning, mosscovered emerald forest, the trail overlooks the bay and then winds down to a set of tangled wooden steps before emerging on to the unique beach.

SCHOONER COVE TRAIL

The Schooner Cove Trail, like the beaches that lie at its end, is endless in the treasures it contains. The two-kilometre boardwalk and stairs winds its way through thriving rainforest, covered in layers of green moss. Besides the dominating cedars that line the boardwalk, there is a 600-year-old spruce at the descent to the beach. At the sitka, turning right leads to the secluded Schooner Cove, while hooking left leads to the 10 km of Long Beach.

COMBERS BEACH TRAIL

Another short but sweet trail, this 0.5-km Combers Beach Trail will have you at your destination in no time. Veering off in three directions, stick to the left along the wooden boardwalk to get to Combers a short distance away. It’s a relaxing beach, perfect for families and the occasional wedding.

WILD PACIFIC TRAIL (UCLUELET)

Ranked one of the top things to do in British Columbia, Ucluelet has been blessed by the incredible gift of the Wild Pacific Trail. Do-able by nearly anyone, the easy eight-kilometre winds its way along some of the most scenic coastline on Vancouver Island. The Lighthouse Loop is a popular and easy route, while the Artist Loops and Rocky Bluffs will simply steal your breath away.

SOUTH BEACH TRAIL

The 1.6-km trail is on gravel and boardwalk that provides access to the scenic Lismer Beach. This coastal trail is one of the most scenic trails in Ucluelet. It is a great trail for a picnic as you will not only enjoy the beautiful view and crashing waves, but also the songs sung by the stones of the shore as the waves crash down upon them.

NUU CHAH NULTH TRAIL

(WICKANINNISH

TRAIL)

Connecting Long Beach to Florencia Bay is the Nuu Chah Nulth Trail. Its original name, Wickaninnish, was after Chief Wickaninnish of the Nuu Chah Nulth people. Ocean views accompany a splendid, raised wooden boardwalk path that cuts through the Pacific Rim National Park’s thick, coastal rain forest. Its 3.8 kilometres makes it the longest trail within the park boundary.

THE BIG TREE TRAIL

Get lost among the humbling old growth of Meares Island by exploring the Big Tree Trail. Ancient Cedars kiss the sky as visitors make their way along the easy, 3km boardwalk hike. The boardwalk, hugged by the incredible trees, adds to the enchanted forest atmosphere of the journey. Eagles often perch in the massive branches of the surrounding trees and plenty of wildlife enhance to magic of the area. The trail can be easily reached by kayak or a local water taxi/charter boat.

WILD SIDE TRAIL

Just a boat ride away on the west coast of Flores Island, the Wild Side Trail provides a scenic break from the bustling tourist season of Ucluelet and Tofino. The 10km of trail whisks visitors along a boardwalk through beautiful forests and the charming town of Ahousaht. Adding to the west coast escape aspect are some of the most natural and untouched beaches in British Columbia, alongside which the Walk the Wild Side Trail runs. Ucluelet-info.com

Ucluelet and Tofino are a treasure trove of hiking and beach access trails, so walk softly and fill your senses with the ocean and trees.

THE RAINFOREST TRAIL

A pair of 2km boardwalk loops make-up the Rainforest Trail, and each tells its own west coast tale. Educational signs lining Loop A explain the crucial forest lifecycle, made more impactful by the presence of the immense and numerous surrounding trees. Loop B’s signs educate visitors about keystone species in the area such as salmon and numerous other forest creature’s life cycles.

HALF MOON BAY

Beginning where the Willbrae Trail ends is the short, 1km Half Moon Bay Trail. Old cedars invite guests to explore deeper along the trail, which delves into mossy forests of robust, coiled spruce trees. Their intriguing growth pattern is protective during the cold and stormy winter months.

WILLOWBRAE TRAIL

This is a trail providing a number of final destination options. Beginning between Tofino and Ucluelet, the Willowbrae Trail leaves visitors with the choice of two staircases to descend: one heads to the secluded cove of Half Moon Bay, and the other to the scenic and sheltered Florencia Bay.

LONG BEACH HIKE

More of a beach stroll than a hike, the 10km of Long Beach provide the perfect scenic location for those romantic sunrise or sunset long walks on the beach. The wide open area, vast ocean view and endless activities make this area so much more than just a hiking destination. Ucluelet-info.com

Mountain & ocean playground

Four seasons of fantastic in the Comox Valley

PARADISE IN POWDER AT MOUNT WASHINGTON

Mount Washington is historically home to one of the deepest snowpacks in North America, with a yearly average of more than 11 metres. Mount Washington Alpine Resort sports an ocean view like no other and is serviced by five lifts, five Magic Carpets, 81 marked trails, 25 kilometres of pristine snowshoe trails and 55 kilometres of Nordic trails that have attracted Olympiclevel athletes to 1,700 acres of terrain.

ONE OF B.C.’S BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE DESTINATIONS

Cumberland’s extensive mountain-bike trails draw riders from all over the world. The trail network is surrounded by massive forests and o ers masterfullycrafted trails for all abilities. Mount Washington Alpine Resort’s bike park opens in July and riders can choose from a range of epic expert runs to easy beginner trails. Book in advance to access bike rentals, guides, and lessons throughout the Comox Valley and Mount Washington.

Midway up the east coast of Vancouver Island, this valley embraced by both the sea and mountains o ers the charm of a small town with urban sophistication.

From full-on adventure to blissful relaxation, you will find four seasons of fantastic experiences and fun in the Comox Valley. Whether you carve down an alpine slope with stunning ocean views, snowshoe or cross country ski through an ancient forest, scuba dive in the crystal clear waters, paddle along kilometers of shoreline, hike or bike along a river or in pristine wilderness, or tee o at one of the many golf courses, there’s something for every adventurer. And if you’re not really keen on the outdoors, there’s still loads of laid-back dining, spas, shopping, and cultural experiences to check out, too.

Enjoy a day of arts and culture at museums, galleries, and artists’ studios, curl up on the beach with a favourite book, tour the local wineries and distilleries or sample what’s on tap at the craft breweries. Browse boutique shops, enjoy a cappuccino at a sidewalk cafe and book a much deserved spa treatment. The small-town aesthetic found in all three of these communities is something to be adored. Festivals throughout the year celebrate everything from music and shellfish to fine art and aviation.

With more than 400 farmers and food producers in the region, Comox Valley’s diverse selection of restaurants exemplify farm-tofork and tide-to-table culinary traditions, with menus featuring the freshest of seasonally local ingredients. These communities have everything from arguably the best ramen on the west coast to crave-worthy chicken sandwiches and inventive donuts to oh-so creamy gelato.

Cumberland, the smaller community of the three, boasts a storied past as a mining community that’s been transformed into a hub of outdoor recreation. Known foremost for its worldclass mountain biking, the area also includes hiking, disc golf and loads of ways to explore its roots through museums and interpretive displays at Number 6 Mine Park. Hit the trails then fuel up with great food, craft beer and artisan treats without even having to move your car – it’s all that close.

Across the water, Comox is characterized by a fresh, spirited energy, an infectious and a modern facelift spurred by millions of new dollars in capital investment. It’s Island living at its best: boutique shopping, quaint cafes, oceanside activities, and a tantalizing array of award-winning restaurants. Comox is also home to the region’s modern airport that welcomes daily flights from Vancouver, Edmonton and Calgary.

While in Comox, make a stop at Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park, a spectacular property boasting nine acres of breathtakingly landscaped waterfront green space, gardens and heritage buildings; the site of numerous arts and culture events throughout the year. If gardens pique your interest, follow your visit to Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park with stops at Innisfree Botanical Gardens, Kitty Coleman Woodland Gardens, and Aderton Gardens as well.

Just a short drive west of Comox is Courtenay, a community best known for its assortment of locally owned shops and abundance of awardwinning restaurants, but it’s also known for its street markets and events that bring vibrancy downtown, making it one of the most vibrant and popular downtowns on Vancouver Island.

Rent a kayak or connect with a local outfitter to experience the region by water. Try popular paddles around Comox Harbour and the scenic waters surrounding Goose Spit, home to seals, bald eagles and blue herons. Head to the historic Royston Shipwrecks or experience the intertidal marine life in and around the mouths of the Tsolum and Puntledge Rivers.

Fishing charters feature knowledgeable captains and expert guides to deliver you to prime fishing hot-spots. Charters include bait, fishing gear, fish bags, plus cleaning and filleting. For visitors who bring their own boats, head to Comox Harbour, Courtenay Airpark, Union Bay, Kitty Coleman or Saratoga Beach for launch access points to the ocean. Comox Lake in Cumberland o ers excellent fresh-water boating and swimming.

The valley is on the unceded traditional territory of the K’ómoks First Nation, traditional keepers of this Land of Plenty.

COMOX VALLEY/JORDAN DYCK

A MOUNTAIN BIKER ON THE WIZARD BIKE TRAIL AT MT WASHINGTON

WALKING THROUGH DOWNTOWN COMOX.

GOLD RIVER

Alert Bay Telegraph Cove TAHSIS ZEBALLOS CAMPBELL RIVER Bowser

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Quadra I. NORTH ISLAND ND NORTH CENTRAL ISLAND P PACIFIC RIM ICRIM

Discovery Islands Strathcona Park

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Valley adventures

ONE OF B.C.’S BEST MOUNTAIN BIKE DESTINATIONS

The Comox Valley’s extensive mountain-bike trails draw riders from all over the world. The trail network is surrounded by massive forests and o ers masterfully-crafted trails for all abilities. Mount Washington Alpine Resort’s bike park opens in July and riders can choose from a range of epic expert runs to easy beginner trails. From multi-day Sip & Savour Tours to three-hour Wine & Chocolate rides, the region’s meandering, rider friendly country roads are dotted with a multitude of farms and wineries and o er the perfect pairing for road riders of all ages and fitness levels.

OCEAN SPORTS FOR ALL AGES

With beautiful sandy beaches and extensive ocean activities available, head to Comox and rent a stand-up paddleboard, kayak or sailboat for a day of adventure.

DIVING EXCURSIONS

The waters surrounding the Comox Valley o er some of the most pristine, clear coldwater diving in the world. Local dives include the Capilano Wreck (1915), Vivian Island Sponge Wall, Norris Rocks with its mischievous seals and the memorable Wolf Eel Alley.

SWEET SWIMMING HOLES

There is awesome river swimming found at both Nymph Falls Nature Park and Barber’s Hole on the Puntledge River. The park on Forbidden Plateau Road is popular with locals. The falls is the result of a fish ladder built in the 1950s and has easy access and waist-deep sections. The Barber’s Hole is a harder climb. Swimming and exploring along the Puntledge River is at your own risk. Another popular swimming hole near Nymph Falls Nature Park is the Medicine Bowls, known as the Browns River Falls.

FLY ON AMAZING ZIPLINES

Unfold your wings and soar through the treetops on Mount Washington’s Eagle’s Flight Zip Tour. Enjoy the rush of freedom as you fly down the face of the mountain. Join our Eagle’s Flight guides and descend the mountain like never before. Book your flight now because this unique experience has limited availability.

MARINE WILDLIFE TOURS

Take a tour on a zodiac or covered boat for a unique family experience. The surrounding waters of Desolation Sound and the Salish Sea boast extensive marine wildlife, both big and small, including marine birds, seals, sea lions, porpoises and even orca or gray whales, which frequent the area.

The fabulous Filberg Festival

Heritage lodge and park well worth the visit any time of year

The Filberg Festival in Comox is truly a unique event. Set among the stately trees and gardens of the Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park, festival goers enjoy art, music and nature.

It takes place this year during the August long weekend from Friday, Aug. 4 to Sunday, Aug. 6.

The festival features a curated selection of more than 100 talented artists in media ranging from metalwork, pottery, toys and woodcrafts to jewelry, paintings, glass, textiles and specialty foods.

The festival is also renowned for its tradition of featuring exceptional Canadian talent in entertainment from local musicians to top recording artists.

The Filberg Festival features a site-wide license that showcases Vancouver Island’s best beer, wines and ciders, so guests can enjoy a refreshing beverage while taking in all the crafts, sights and sounds of the festival.

“We look forward to welcoming our community and visitors to the park for this year’s annual Filberg Festival, which has grown and will showcase so many loved artisans and musicians, creating a memorable weekend for all those in attendance,” says Linda Thomas, Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park Association executive director.

Admission is the primary fundraiser for the not-for-profit organization which has the responsibility of restoring and maintaining the town-owned Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park’s site and buildings. In 1979, the lodge and surrounding acreage were designated as a municipal heritage site.

Open year-round, the landscaped grounds contain rare and exotic trees, a stream and numerous flowerbeds. Meandering the paths and open meadows are perfect for a stroll, a picnic or quiet contemplation. The park is also used as a venue for multiple outdoor events such as concerts and weddings, so the Filberg Festival is one of many events that take place on these stunning grounds.

Built in the early 1930s, the Filberg Lodge is a 4,000-square-foot arts-and-crafts-style residence that features steep gables, leaded glass windows and hand-hewn cedar shakes covering the exterior walls and roof. Inside, extensive use of local wood and stone by master craftsmen and antique finishing create an air of rustic elegance.

For more information about the festival, visit filbergfestival.com

Campbell River

A coastal city nestled in nature

Campbell River, or Wei Wai Kum, is located on the east coast of Vancouver Island within the ancestral territory of the We Wai Kai and Wei Wai Kum First Nations, in the Northern Salish Sea.

Sitting on the 50th parallel, it’s a city nestled in nature with five Provincial Parks (including B.C.’s first, Strathcona) surrounding the region, with front row access to the Discovery Passage.

Campbell River is the destination of choice for all ages and abilities, whether you’re an artist looking for inspiration, a budding marine biologist, a lover of forests, a curious and respectful explorer of heritage and culture or someone who simply wants to visit one of the most beautiful, uncrowded places on Vancouver Island.

Locally owned operators care about their products, experiences and this place, o ering world-class tourism experiences, delivered in an authentically Campbell River way.

SALMON

Salmon are an integral part of the community; one needs only to spend a day in the Campbell River region to find this remarkably resilient fish everywhere from Indigenous art to swimming in the city’s namesake river, raised in hatcheries, sought out as the top prize in the Tyee Club or featured on menus in local restaurants. It’s important that all visitors respect salmon and their habitats, so that all may benefit from their presence for generations to come.

HIKING

In Campbell River, there is no shortage of hiking trails. Don’t miss Elk Falls Provincial Park for epic views of the waterfall from the 64-metre high suspension bridge. In the fall, walk along the Canyon View Trail to witness fly fishers casting their lines. For those wanting to reconnect with nature, Strathcona Provincial Park has terrain options for all skill levels and view-seekers.

HISTORY

The Museum at Campbell River, Haig-Brown House, the Maritime Heritage Centre, Ripple Rock Trail and interpretive signs throughout the city o er insight into how the area’s past, present and future make for a fascinating place to live and to visit.

MARINE ADVENTURE TOURS

The waters surrounding Campbell River are home to a wide variety of wildlife, including orcas, humpback whales, bears, dolphins and much more. All of this is back dropped by the towering coastal mountains and scenic Discovery Islands. Campbell River waters are also home to some of the best cold water diving spots in the world.

UNWIND

The shores and beaches along the east coast of the Island o er locals and visitors a place to watch the sunset over the Coastal Mountains of mainland British Columbia, so building beach fires and roasting s’mores are a part of most locals’ skill set, and visitors are encouraged to take part in this tradition (always check fire regulations and restrictions).

And if you’re into patio cocktails, cozy dining rooms, ice cream and more adventures, you can find the brewery, acclaimed golf courses, a catch-and-release aquarium, incredible trail networks and more hidden gems scattered in and around the city and surrounding islands and communities.

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JODY SCRIVER

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A land for adventurers

First Nations

Get into the wild, explore rich cultures and landscapes

Nature and First Nations culture abound in the wild, undiscovered reaches of North Vancouver Island.

The upper third of North America’s largest island is unspoiled and largely undiscovered yet just a day’s travel from Vancouver, Victoria and Seattle. It o ers a breathtaking palette of parks, forests, lakes, saltwater inlets and jigsaw-puzzle coastline.

Black bears forage for berries, grizzlies swim from the Mainland, whales splash at sea and eagles glide overhead. The region also stretches past the shores of Vancouver Island to include magnificent Knight Inlet and a swath of the Great Bear Rainforest on the mainland of British Columbia.

Go fishing, kayaking, diving and surfing. On the land, try mountain biking, hiking, caving, skiing and hike pristine forests and beaches.

Experience Kwakwaka’wakw First Nations traditions, art and living culture.

FASCINATING CULTURE

Vancouver Island North boasts rich and colourful culture and history. Its various museums and cultural and interpretive centres chronicle a saga of human habitation dating back thousands

of years. Alert Bay’s incomparable U’mista Cultural Centre is internationally renowned for its collection of potlatch artifacts.

The community museums in Port Hardy, Port McNeill, Port Alice, Sointula, Quatsino and Alert Bay all do their vital part in keeping the history and traditions of the region alive with displays, rotating exhibits and extensive archives.

Vancouver Island North exerts a magnetic pull on easygoing adventurers seeking authentic tours and experiences in a spectacularly panoramic natural setting. The variety of things to do here is remarkably diverse, especially when exploring the outdoors by land, sea and air.

MADE FOR ADVENTURERS

Vancouver Island North is a landscape that has remained virtually untouched for centuries. A land rich with both history and culture, made for adventurers, explorers and for the truly wild at heart. It represents an opportunity to disconnect and reconnect with nature again. For those that visit this rugged landscape, it’s about a journey of discovery, a journey to find adventure, tranquility or to submerse yourself in the ancient cultures and traditions that have existed here for thousands of years. On Vancouver Island North, trails penetrate deep into the landscape, o ering access to remote forests, streams, beaches and lakes. Stop along the pristine shorelines and inhale the freshest ocean air.

WILD AND FREE

Wild things roam here. Expect your first sightings to be majestic bald eagles riding the updrafts overhead or perhaps a black bear munching on sweet grass at the edge of Highway 19 (locally known as Bear Alley). The Roosevelt elk and Vancouver Island marmot are unique to the region. Great blue herons fish at the edge of estuaries that echo with the sweet call of songbirds.

ADOBE STOCK

The North Island comprises the traditional territories of the Kwakwaka’wakw

TOURISM VANCOUVER ISLAND/JORDAN DYCK/U'MISTA CULTURAL CENTRE

SAN JOSEF BAY, CAPE SCOTT PROVINCIAL PARK, NORTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND LITTLE HUSON CAVES

TOURISM VANCOUVER ISLAND/JORDAN DYCK

Warm Welcomes

U’MISTA CULTURAL CENTRE

The centre is one of the longest-operating and most successful First Nations cultural facilities in British Columbia, founded in 1980 as a ground-breaking project to house potlatch artifacts which had been seized by government during an earlier period of cultural repression. The return of the potlatch artifacts not only provided U’mista’s name (‘the return of something important’), and sparked a general trend toward repatriation of First Nations and cultural artifacts, it caused the creation of a physical facility and human resources infrastructure which have been successfully operated for decades. U’mista now operates a modern museum and cultural education facility in Alert Bay. Their operations include the museum, an extensive art gallery and gift shop, group tours, and presentations by dance troupes. — TripAdvisor

KWA’LILAS

The Kwa’lilas Hotel is located in the traditional territories of the Kwakiutl people and is a demonstration of the commitment of the Gwa’sala ‘Nakwaxda’xw Nations to share their history, culture and passion for their traditional territory in a meaningful and permanent way by showcasing and celebrating it in a beautiful, comfortable

space that is representative of their community. This premier First Nations four-star destination hotel, o ers high-end amenities and services. Located in downtown Port Hardy, Kwa’lilas is a traditional word meaning ‘a place to sleep.’ After a day of exploring, refresh with their West Coast, Aboriginal inspired menu in their restaurant Ha’me’.

Thousands of years ago, First Nations shared this wild coastal region with eagles, black bears, orca whales and salmon. Timeless ancient traditions continue as the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nation preserves and celebrates their culture through art, dance, music, language and a sustainable day-to-day relationship with the natural world.

NORTHERN VANCOUVER ISLAND TOURISM/KIMBERLEY KUFAAS

SEA WOLF ADVENTURES

Sea Wolf Adventures connects travellers to destinations in the Great Bear Rain Forest and Broughton Archipelago areas for grizzly bear viewing, whale watching and local First Nations cultural tours. Travel with Sea Wolf to experience the stories behind the scenery, support local Indigenous communities, and experience a sustainable approach to wildlife viewing that preserves the precious territory for generations to come.

FORT RUPERT

The southern edge of Port Hardy is home to the Kwakiutl First Nation. It is known for its public galleries where internationally renowned carvers create magnificent art from cedar. You can buy authentic art pieces, gifts and prints here.

K’AWAT’SI TOURS

Experience the wild beauty of British Columbia’s coastal rain forests through the eyes of your First Nations guide as they share their culture, history and traditions. Get out on the water to view wildlife, roam remote beaches, or listen to stories and learn how to weave cedar or make drums. K’awat’si Tours is your connection to Indigenous culture in Port Hardy. kawatsitours.ca

GOLDEN GATE

Dubbed the Golden Gate to the West Coast, Zeballos is nestled among towering forestcloaked mountains at the head of Zeballos Inlet, gateway to Nootka Sound, world famous for salmon fishing, kayaking, caving and scuba diving. Gold was discovered here in 1931, but all the glitter is now found in its rustic natural beauty.

FRIENDLY FOLKS, OUTDOOR ADVENTURE

Located just outside beautiful Strathcona Park, between the Gold and Heber rivers and a few kilometres from the Muchalat Inlet, Gold River is an outdoor paradise. Take in many of the ecofriendly activities for fishing, camping, hiking and kayaking.

CLUXEWE RESORT

Welcome to Cluxewe, a natural wonder, in the land of the Kwakiutl People, who own and manage the resort, which includes cottages, and RV and tenting sites. Cluxewe has two di erent, but related, meanings: ‘Place of the changing river mouth’ and ‘place of refuge.’ Change and refuge — you can find both in this spectacular and peaceful setting, where the Cluxewe River meets the sea at Broughton Strait, along British Columbia’s famous Inside Passage.

SEA WOLF ADVENTURES

BLACK BEAR IN PORT HARDY

CLUXEWE RESTAURANT, FIRST COURSE

Humpback comeback

A second chance with giants

For more than four decades, humpback whales were rarely seen o the coast of British Columbia — their populations devastated by industrial whaling. Fortunately, they have made a comeback. Now the humpbacks are often near Vancouver Island. It is in these cold, rich waters that they feed, building up their reserves to be able to sustain themselves in the breeding grounds of Hawaii, Mexico or Central America.

We have a second chance with these giant neighbours, and with this comes great responsibility. The increase of humpback whales o our coast means there is more overlap with human activities that threaten them.

For the sake of both whale and boater safety, it is so important to know that humpback whales are often oblivious of the presence of boats and fishing gear. Toothed whales like orca use echolocation (bio sonar) to form an acoustic image of their surroundings. Humpbacks, and other baleen whales, do not have this bio sonar. Danger of collision, and entanglement, is increased when it is not understood how Humpback Whales behave and why they need space (we advise 200 metres). These are hungry whales who generally specialize in feeding in the same specific locations in B.C. waters year after year.

For example, Humpback BCY0291, nicknamed KC, has been returning to the Campbell River area for 20 years.

He was born in 2002 and brought to the waters o north eastern Vancouver Island by his mother, BCX0022 (nicknamed Houdini). She was first spotted in these waters in 1998 and known to have brought five di erent calves to the area.

KC has returned on his own every year. He is a favourite among many whale watching enthusiasts in the Campbell River area who look out for him each year.

Humpback whales are often not travelling in predictable ways at the surface. Rather, they are often at depth, looping through the area in which they feed, and can suddenly surface after long dives.

Their behaviour can also change unexpectedly, and hey may suddenly become acrobatic. Humpbacks may also be resting just below the surface and be very di cult to detect.

The gains of choosing an ecotourism company dedicated to conservation, with highly trained and experienced crews, is that they have the knowledge and ethics to avoid disruption of the whales through noise and/or being too close. They know where individual whales are likely to be and are vigilant for signs of whale presence.

Whale watching experiences are also made more meaningful when there is the commitment and skill to identify individual whales; to speak to their life histories, behaviour and conservation; and to contribute sightings information to research.

It truly takes a very large community of those who care, to do right by the whales, learn from them, and to make second chances count for greater good.

For the laws and best practices to reduce chance of collision and be of use if an entanglement is witnessed, see SeeABlowGoSlow.org mersociety.org, @mersociety

— Sponsored by Campbell River Whale Watching

HUMPBACK WHALE KC

PHOTO: MARINE MAMMAL LICENSE MML-57 MARINE EDUCATION & RESEARCH SOCIETY

CAMPBELL RIVER WHALE WATCHING