Irish Explorer's Journal © August 2020 by World Explorers Bureau. Editor: Tim Lavery Publisher: World Explorers Bureau Website: www.worldexplorersbureau.com/explorer Address: Alderwood House, Farnes, Castlemaine, Co. Kerry, Ireland Email: explorer@worldexplorersbureau.com All articles and images © 2020 of the respective Authors. Front Cover: View towards the Reeks © Daniel Born
Inside Front Cover: Minard Castle, Dingle Peninsula © World Explorers Bureau Inside Back Cover: Glens of Antrim from Fair Head © K. Mitch Hodge
Back Cover: Hell's Hole, Malin Head, Donegal © Daniel Jensen
The Irish Explorer's Journal is grateful to all our writers and photographers for permission to publish their work. The Irish Explorer's Journal has been typeset in 16 point Garamond and uses OED English spelling.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other non-commercial uses permitted by copyright law. Although the publisher has made every effort to ensure that the information in this book was correct at press time, the authors and publisher do not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss, damage, or disruption caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause. For further information contact the publisher: explorer@worldexplorersbureau.com
Welcome to the second issue of the Irish Explorer's Journal. Our journey around Ireland in this issue begins in the famed MacGillicuddy’s Reeks, the mountain range located in the centre of the Kingdom of Kerry, here mountaineer and guide Piaras Kelly brings us on a trip down memory lane to the people and places in his childhood that formed his life in the mountains. Next we venture to another of Ireland’s islands, this time we escape to the white sandy beaches of Inishbofin, which lies just 8km off the rugged Connemara coast, where Nikola Concannon whose family runs the ferry service to the island from the mainland, highlights the draw of the island to generations of visitors. Ireland is famous for the warmth of its hospitality, Aidan Gallagher introduces us to the hidden Ireland, the historic country houses, located across the countryside nestled in mature gardens and parklands, properties where it is easy to forget the hustle and bustle of modern day life, to settle down by an open fireside, to get engrossed in a good book in the library or take a walk in the gardens, before settling in to a room with a view. In our first issue we focussed on the life and times of the Irish explorer and sailor, Edward Bransfield, this time we turn to the modern-day adventurer, Mike O’ Shea from his expeditions to the worlds Ice Caps to his latest adventures which will see him explore the earths poles of inaccessibility. The Irish countryside has been managed for millennia by farm families, in recent decades there has been an increased drive to combine farm management and productivity with sustainable practices and nature friendly measures, in this issue Donal Sheehan a participant farmer in the Bride Project shows how restoring farmland biodiversity has benefits for everyone. In our final part of the well-researched article by Ruth Illingworth of Mullingar we follow the exploits of the explorer, statesman and spy that was Sir Charles Howard-Bury, the famed explorer from the Irish midlands who led the first expedition to Mount Everest in 1921. The Irish Explorer's Journal will include regular features on wild landscapes, waterways and island exploration, trails and hiking routes across lowlands, hills and mountains, from the Wild Atlantic Way and the Ancient East to the Causeway Coast and Glens, adventures abound. In addition, each issue will reveal the explorers and expeditions worldwide that have an Irish interest, shaping the world we live in. I am most grateful to all the writers and photographers who have made this publication possible and encourage readers to follow the links to their various websites and blogs. If there are people and places that you wish to hear more about, please let us know and we will endeavour to feature them at some point in the future. I hope that you will enjoy reading this free digital Journal and encourage you to share it widely with those interested in our Ireland of Adventures. Tim Lavery FRGS FRCGS FLS, Editor August 1, 2020 Image: Mountain Sheep, Gearsallagh, Kerry © Jesse Gardner
irish explorer's journal
Editor in Chief Tim Lavery Featuring Piaras Kelly Nikola Concannon Aidan Gallagher Donal Sheehan Ruth Illingworth
VOLUME 1 ISSUE 2 AUGUST 2020 WWW.WORLDEXPLORERSBUREAU.COM/EXPLORER Image opposite: Assaranca Waterfall, Ardara, Donegal © Andrea Ferrario
Contents A Life in the Hills Piaras Kelly
1
Island Escape: InishboďŹ n Nikola Concannon
15
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
23
Adventure Spotlight: Mike O' Shea
43
Restoring Farmland Biodiversity Donal Sheehan
49
Explorer, Statesman, Spy (Part II) Ruth Illingworth
55
Image opposite: The Statues in St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin Š Matteo Grando
A Life in the Hills
Text and Images by Piaras Kelly
A Life in the Hills AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Beginnings Piaras Kelly
To me, I feel like I’m living my dream. Mountains have truly become my life, my work, rest and play. I feel privileged and lucky to get to spend so much time in the wild high places of Ireland and in particular its most spectacular and rugged mountains, the magnificent Na Cruacha Dubha, more popularly known as the mighty MacGillycuddy’s Reeks. But what got me into the hills? It’s a question I get asked quite a lot while working for myself as a fulltime mountain guide, outdoor instructor, trail and path builder, mountain rescuer, and one I’ve no real definitive answer to. I suppose, I have just always been into the outdoors in some shape or form. Growing up in the rolling countryside of beautiful East Cork back in the mid 70’s to the early 80’s, when not in school you just naturally spent most of your time out and about, just messing around. In some ways, we had no other choice, for us, there wasn’t much else to do. The 1
2
A Life in the Hills Piaras Kelly
TV only had two channels and even one of them didn’t start until 3 o’clock! Kicking a ball or pucking around with a hurl just wasn’t really my thing. I made a half-arsed effort, but I was always the last to be picked and never enjoyed going through the motions. Playing soldiers, exploring, making camps, cycling miles to some beach or adventuring for days in some dodgy crumbling ruinous castle, days getting lost and found in the forest, climbing trees and falling out of them, making forts out of small rectangular hay bales and defending them to the death, this was our childhood and little did I know then, that these were the early beginnings of my outdoors’ apprenticeship. Family summer holidays were spent on endless Youth Hostelling adventures around Ireland. All packed into a Fiat Ritmo along with the dog and off on tour, many memorable nights spent in some of the most spectacularly wild, remote and idyllic locations. Back then the Irish Youth Hostel association, An Óige possessed dozens of amazing hostels in the most awe-inspiring and truly breathtaking corners of Ireland where we could stay, for a small nightly fee and of course our annual family membership, as well as all staying guests assisting and completing in some small menial cleaning or maintenance chores before departure. I wasn’t too impressed on one occasion when I was allocated the lovely job of cleaning the lumps of hair from the communal shower blocks and de-skidding the toilets (if you know what I mean!). 3
A Life in the Hills Piaras Kelly
We roamed and roamed, discovered and explored, scrambled, climbed and swam, immersed in this wild playground. Prior to departure and after the hostel warden had checked that all your allocated tasks were completed satisfactorily (and the toilet was skid free!), your personal membership book, the An Óige passport would be returned and we would eagerly view our newly gained, cool, unique hostel stamp. Each hostel had their own exclusive stamp, some just had text stating the hostel name, but the majority gave a simple but effective illustration of the hostel’s characteristic location or environs, a castle, a seascape, wildlife, a mountain. I still have my little book, my parents dated each stamp, Ballycastle YH, Castle Archdale, Beinn Leitrí, An Trian Lár, Dúros, Ballydavid, Bundoran, Killary Harbour, Newcastle, Loo Bridge, Indreabhán, Tra na Rosann and many more gems.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
My favourite without doubt was Folksrath Castle…. a restored 14th century Anglo Norman tower house situated somewhere in the beautiful countryside of county Kilkenny. Staying in a flippin’ castle for God’s sake – that’s some buzz when you’re 10 years of age to have a castle as a playground. I remember the restless first night, totally exhausted from the day’s games but unable to sleep with excitement for the adventures that lay ahead. My dad, a keen musician, played the banjo or guitar and my mother would sing accompaniment. My bedroom was adjoining the great hall, bare stone walls and arrow slit for a window. What a day, what a place, I could clearly hear his playing and the gentle applause from the other enthralled castle hostellers as they ended another tune. And then the hostel warden told his tale. This should be cooI, I thought to myself, I liked this warden! Fascinated, I had listened to him earlier that day as he’d told my brothers and me about the castle’s connection to the very first aircraft invented in Ireland back in the mid 1800’s. It was called an 'aerial chariot,' the castle 4
5
6
A Life in the Hills Piaras Kelly
owner at the time, an inventor, a Master Swift (a relative of Jonathan Swift apparently, but I had no idea who that was!) tried testing his mad cap contraption by launching it by catapult from the high battlements. Piloted by the castle’s butler, the plane instantly nosedived to the ground and though severely shocked, miraculously the butler survived but with multiple broken bones. But this was a more sinister tale he was about to tell. He had distinctly waited for the kids to go to bed to tell this one, but little did he know that my little ears were tuned to his every word. “There were 3 ghosts in all,” the Warden began, in an ominous tone. What?! Ah jaysus, now hang on here a minute, I’m not sure if I like this warden after all! “The first was a woman who had been seen on many countless nights looking down from the castle windows. Staring, gaunt, on occasion crying. She was thought to be the daughter of a previous owner from the distant past who had been locked away and starved to death at the hands of her cruel father after falling for the handsome son of a family foe.” “The second ghost is that of a guard who fell asleep on duty and was thrown to his death from the ramparts as punishment and a warning to those others under service to the castle’s lord. His footsteps can still be heard as he wanders the castle to make amends for his carelessness.” I was now huddled like a cocoon in my sleeping bag, not willing to emerge until morning and already making emergency plans for my essential loo visit. I’d just wee in my shoe. “The third was another ghostly female, a woman seen wandering the castle accompanied by the scent of wildflowers. Lavender, Honeysuckle, Gorse.” 7
A Life in the Hills Piaras Kelly
Great. That’d surely hide the pong from my shoe and the stench when I crap myself. At least the butler had survived his crash from the roof or else I’d be dealing with a fourth ghost. My head ran riot, I pictured him clawing his way up the stairs, leather Biggles hat, all torn, smashed flight goggles, blood soaked and his white bones protruding!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
A restless night I remember, my brain on overdrive but in time I drifted off to sleep. I remember the devious wink from the warden the following morning as he stamped my logbook, enquiring if I’d enjoyed my night’s sleep and curious if I had happened to hear anything go bump in the night? It was like our scout badges, another tick, another mind-blowing experience, another cool place, we’d jump into the Ritmo and off we’d go again to the next one…YAHOO! One of my true passions, fascinations and interests in life is of ancient Gaelic Ireland and Irish medieval history, without doubt I credit this to those memorable days of my youth. Both my parents were also passionately involved as leaders in the local cub and scout troops and together with my two brothers we spent endless evenings, nights, weekends and blissful summer weeks on troop camps, jamborees and micro expeditions as my folks ticked off their various 'badges' of scout leadership. Not forgetting, just as many 'character building,' truly depressing, drenched and dour wet days shrivelling up in smelly tents as the midges feasted on our young sugar rich blood. Ah the joys… I’ve often heard it referred to as a mountain apprenticeship, the path of knowledge and gaining of solid experience and mountain 'sense'. Every 8
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
day’s a school day for the outdoors person, the mountaineer, the climber, the hill goer, the fisherman, the sailor, the surfer. A fascinating and broad knowledge of our wild natural environment, natural history, bird and wildlife, our long human history, plant life, ecology, weather, navigation, movement, technique, cop-on (common sense - for non-Irish readers), hill savviness, just dealing with whatever comes your way, learning from endless mistakes, field first-aid as we patched ourselves up after yet another mishap, basically just gaining confidence and competence. I can genuinely look back fondly to those endless care free days of my youth as well as all those far from blissful and difficult times thrown in for good measure and trace all of these experiences, the good and the bad as the very beginnings of my life in the hills and wild places. The direct sowing of that wonderful life-giving seed and the river source of my start in this long amazing apprenticeship and deep satisfying love for the great 9
10
outdoors. And now I work, rest, play and literally breathe the mountains. I work alongside my wife Catherine, running our own successful outdoor business and living in the shadows of Ireland’s most spectacular peaks. We work hard but are deeply satisfied with where life has led us. I climb Ireland’s highest mountain – Corrán Tuathail quite a bit. Probably close to 200+ times a year, guiding hundreds of happy clients in the process and sharing with them the joy and delights of these mighty, lofty peaks and rugged valleys that I love and adore so much. I get asked all manner of things. Why are the sheep painted red? Are the lambs red when they’re born? (I kid you not!), Have you been up it in the dark? Have you done Everest (don’t get me started with this one!) How is bog made? What’s the fastest you’ve done it in? Have you ever had an accident? Are there wolves? Can you drink the water? And almost daily that recurring question crops up…What got you into the hills? I enjoy reminiscing. Sometimes the journey is just as memorable and important as reaching the destination.
11
12
Skellig Michael, Kerry
13
Island Escape: Inishbofin
14
Text & Images by Nikola Concannon
Island Escape Inishbofin
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Nikola Concannon
Driving to Bofin in the early 70s was a lifetime ago. Tourism in Bofin was in its infancy. Reminiscing with my rose-tinted prescription glasses, half a century later, life is much the same here but with a modern twist. Back then, travelling here by car, from east to west, the roads were bad. We had three kids in the back seat, the dog and a boat sometimes. The journey was long, passing through Clifden, finally at the top of Cleggan Cross, the big sign - welcome to Cleggan village - Gateway to Inishbofin! The long and tiring journey was quickly forgotten as we spot Bofin languishing on the horizon. Summers spent here were perfect, the weather sunnier, the sea warmer and we spent all our time outside. Fast forward to today. Myself, my island husband Pat Concannon, our oldest son Harry and family run the ferry service to Inishbofin. We started back in 2003 with the 100-passenger ferry MV Island Discovery, operating the state-subsidised service between Cleggan on the mainland and the community on Inishbofin, in 2017 we added a larger capacity ferry that came from Normandy. We provide the service all year around which conveys the Island’s secondary students, islanders on their daily business, holiday-home owners and from mid-March to October 15
16
17
Island Escape: Inishbofin Nikola Concannon
day trippers and tourists checking-in to hotels, B&Bs and holiday houses located on the island. The first week in July to the third week in August are peek tourist times, when the ferry is busy with families, bikes, buggies, bags filled with wetsuits, picnics, buckets and spades. In August 2018, we were awarded the state-subsidised Cargo service for Inishbofin. we were lucky enough to obtain what has always been one of Pats favourite type of boats - an original Caledonian Macbrayne IslandClass Cargo boat, the MV Raasay. It takes everything from building supplies, sheep, cars and online shopping, proving itself to be an invaluable member of the growing fleet. Bofin today is still much the same as it was in the early days. There is still the craic in the pub, the long traditional music sessions, the welcome handshake and greeting to new and familiar faces alike. There is now a lot more going on, new facilities added over the years - the community centre, the playground and the football pitch.
18
The Great Island Swim Nuala Moore
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
There are three hotels, self-catering houses, pub, coffee shop, B&Bs, hostel, camping, glamping, pony trekking, bikes, kayaks, paddle boards, sailing and a swimming scheme. Plenty to do for everyone if you are feeling energetic, or if not, there’s many a quiet sheltered nook on the island’s many sandy blue flag beaches to chill out and re-energise! Bofin still holds the same draw and it is treated to the same level of affection from all its hooked visitors, from people who are new to those who have been visiting for the last 50 odd years, who are now spending time here with their grandchildren and great grandchildren showing them their favourite island spots. Looped walks were introduced a few years ago, 3 dedicated trails of different lengths and terrain have been signposted. From these trails you can take time to see the variety of flora and fauna, sea birds, the deserted nearby Island of Inishark, the seal colony, bogs and cliffs. Exploring the island with trail maps obtained from the Community Centre are a great 19
The Great Island Swim Nuala Moore
way to get a feel for the place and I’d recommend breaking the day with a cold pint and a local crab sandwich! There are different festivals run on Bofin during the year. One that is proving to be very popular is Bia Bo Finne. A local food festival held usually at the beginning of October, definitely one of my favourite weekends! Inishbofin is a great place to holiday. Arrive with an open mind, prepare to be smitten, and in years to come, to be reminiscing on that first tantalising visit!
20
For more information on Inishbofin: www.inishbofinferry.ie and www.inishbofin.com 21
Discovering Hidden Ireland
22
Text by Adrian Gallagher
Discovering Hidden Ireland
Aidan Gallagher
Hidden Ireland is a fascinating collection of Historic Country Homes & Manor Houses located all around the island of Ireland. All privately owned, they are as far removed from conventional hotels in Ireland as could possibly be imagined. Hidden Ireland gives visitors an opportunity to explore the best of the Irish countryside while the town houses are a relaxing way to visit Irish towns and cities. Hidden Ireland properties are the genuine article, period architectural gems from the early Georgian to late Victorian times, owned and managed by families, many of whom have lived in the houses themselves for many generations. These houses have been carefully selected for their architectural merit as well as the unique character, style and attention to detail imparted by their owners and their forebears. A far cry from modern prefabricated country house hotels, they are atmospheric, livedin, historic family homes, perfectly aged like a fine wine. They are warm and beautifully decorated with family heirlooms and antique furniture, and yet also provide all the comforts of modern luxury accommodation and living. In this issue we hope to bring you on an extraordinary round the island tour of some of the properties where you are guaranteed a number of things during your stay, a Céad Míle Fáilte, delicious homecooked food, a good night’s rest & a desire to book again soon. Image Left: Breakfast at Glanleam House
23
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
Starting on the east coast, our first stop is Collon House in the picturesque village of Collon, Co Louth. This townhouse is steeped in history and full of character and charm; its gracious rooms are exquisitely furnished with period antiques and paintings, retaining the atmosphere of early Georgian living. The house is owned and run by Michael McMahon & John Bentley-Dunn, both taking enormous pride in their home & gardens. Built in 1740 in the Irish Long House style, Collon House was the home of Anthony Foster, Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer. His famous son John “Speaker� Foster (born 1740), was the last Speaker of the Irish House of Commons up to its dissolution by the Act of Union in 1800. Collon House is less than 1 hour from Dublin City Centre, and 30 minutes from Dublin Airport. Collon House has award-winning gardens and just as with the house these gardens are kept in immaculate condition and you cannot help but let your heart soar when you take in the scents of all the different roses and flowering plants that greet you.
24
25
26
27
Garden View at Collon House
Above: The Living Room at Frewin Opposite: A View of Frewin from the Lawns 28
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
Moving on to the next Hidden Ireland house you will head north west along the road to Frewin in the charming heritage town of Ramelton, Co Donegal. Here you will find a fine Victorian house set in mature, wooded grounds. Formerly a rectory the house has been skilfully restored by Thomas Coyle & Regina Gibson. Staying at Frewin you can feel the pull of the northwest and in particular you realise why you found this gem in the heart of Donegal. It’s the warm hospitality, the good hearty food and the wealth of local knowledge that both Thomas & Regina can supply. Frewin is located in one of the most beautiful parts of the county. The area is surrounded by high mountains, yet is within a short drive of wonderful, almost-deserted beaches, the spectacular coastline of Lough Swilly, Mulroy Bay and Sheephaven, small rivers, lakes and wild open countryside, all bathed in the brilliantly clear Donegal light. Having stayed in Frewin you will be ready to face the world again feeling refreshed and suitably relaxed.
29
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
The next house brings us south again along the west coast to The Quay House in Clifden, Co Galway. Here you will be met here by Paddy & Julia Foyle, who collectively have many years of experience in hospitality. Paddy is renowned for his hearty cooking, ensuring everyone leaves each morning having had a hearty breakfast. Dating from 1820 and perched on the edge of Clifden Harbour, it is Clifden’s oldest house. The Quay House stands right beside the harbour in the market town of Clifden, long considered the capital of Connemara, a beautiful region of mountains, lakes and coastal inlets and the most westerly part of County Galway.
30
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
Fishing boats and traditional gaff-rigged Galway Hookers are moored right alongside the house, yet it is just a short walk from the centre of the town, with its colourful restaurants, cafes and shops. The Quay House was originally built as a residence for the Harbour Master, but it subsequently became a Franciscan monastery, then a convent and finally an outstanding Country House Bed & Breakfast, so it has had a long and chequered career. A stay at the Quay House is just the solution to any holiday planner’s questions.
31
32
33
The Quay House, Galway
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
Moving inland to explore the hidden heartlands of Ireland we come to Roundwood House in Mountrath, Co Laois. Hannah & Paddy Flynn are the owners and hosts here at Roundwood House. As hosts, Paddy has many talents and among them is being a superb chef while Hannah ensures that every guest not only feels at home but gets the same sense of awe and charm every time you cross the threshold. Described by a guest as “A delightful, quirky house, bursting with character,” Roundwood House certainly lives up to its reputation. A rambling avenue leads you through a welcoming committee of animals and into a bright, spacious hall. There is a drawing room; study and dining room, where the combination of log fires, antique furniture and absence of televisions may actually make you believe you’ve been transported back to the 18th century. The six bedrooms in the Main House are all en-suite, spacious and unique. They contain their original architectural features and have impressive views of the lawns and courtyards and promises you one of the best night’s sleep you’ll ever experience.
34
Frank's Library, Roundwood House
35
36
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
Heading now to the kingdom of Kerry, no visit is complete without a visit to this next Hidden Ireland House. The next stop is to Glanleam House in Valentia Island, Co Kerry where your hosts Jessica & Eoin O’Donoghue will cater for your every need. Glanleam was built as a linen mill in 1775 and later converted into a house by the Knight of Kerry, who planted the magnificent sub-tropical gardens. Spellbound by its magical setting of sheer natural beauty, five generations of the Knights of Kerry made Glanleam their home, each extending the original building, turning Glanleam House into the historic country manor it is today. In 1975 Meta Kreissig bought the estate which had declined for 50 years. She rescued the house, restored and enlarged the garden and, with her daughter Jessica, made it a delightful place to stay, with a mixture of antique and contemporary furniture and an extensive library.
Glanleam House, Kerry
The setting of Glanleam House looking out over the harbour is magical and leaves you wishing to extend your stay. 37
From the Kingdom you can head east to Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher Clonganny House, Ballygarrett, Gorey, Co Wexford where Philippe & Brona Brillant would be delighted to welcome you into their home as their guest. A glorious Georgian gem nestled in the heart of the beach area of north Co. Wexford. Beautiful and tastefully decorated, Clonganny House is a luxury B&B, exclusively for adults, offering stylish accommodation and delicious food. The elegant and romantic en-suite rooms are located around the courtyard, in converted stable and coach house buildings. Each one is individually designed and fitted out to the highest standard and opens out to a delightful walled garden where guests can sit and enjoy the peaceful and serene space. Philippe works magic in the kitchen showing all the skills he gleaned from the Michelin Star places he has worked in across the world. Brona ensures that all their guests can relax and enjoy the luxury of their home.
38
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
39
Clonganny House, Wexford
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
After that visit you find yourself back full-circle on the east coast of Ireland! A visit to any of these hidden gems around Ireland leaves you ready for the hustle and bustle of everyday life again while mentally making plans for the next holiday.
Clonganny House, Wexford
40
Discovering Hidden Ireland Aidan Gallagher
All of these properties and many more can be found on www.hiddenireland.com where the choices of holiday destination are as unique as the properties themselves..
Until the next visit!
41
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
In Focus: Mike O'Shea - Adventurer 42
In Focus Mike O'Shea
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Adventurer
Mike O Shea's climbing career began at the age of 13 when he started climbing in the mountains of the McGillicuddy Reeks near his home-place in County Kerry. His adventurous spirit led him to be one of the first people in Ireland to gain the Gold Gaisce President's Award. He has climbed extensively in the European Alps and internationally, going on to volunteer with Kerry Mountain Rescue for 10 years.
Mike hasn’t reserved his enthusiasm just for climbing and mountaineering, he is a keen paraglider and paramotorist, and was one of the first people to paramotor across the Irish Sea. He is also a keen skier and has recently moved on to SpeedFlying to further add to the sense of adventure. As part of The Ice Project Mike O’ Shea has crossed Lake Baikal in Northern Russia, Chile's North Patagonian Icecap, the Southern Icecap on Kilimanjaro and Greenland crossing. Mike has raised funds to build Image: Mike O'Shea crossing Lake Baikal
43
In Focus: Mike O Shea Adventurer
and run an orphanage in Africa for children whose parents died of HIV and he is a staunch supporter of the Himalayan Stove Project. His heights and rescue experience has allowed him to work on numerous projects such as Red Bull Cliff Diving and Crashed Ice events and international films such as Star Wars, and to consult for the likes of the Health and Safety Authority of Ireland and the Irish Coast Guard. Mike's most recent expeditions have focused on the global Poles of Inaccessibility. A pole of inaccessibility is a geographical point that represents the most remote place to reach in a given area, often based on distance from the nearest coastline. A geographic concept, the location of a pole of inaccessibility is not necessarily an actual physical feature. Vilhjalmur Stefansson, a Canadian explorer, was the first to introduce this concept in 1920 to differentiate between the location of the North Pole and the most remote and difficult location to reach in the Arctic. 44
Image: Mike O'Shea with Jonathan Shackleton (left) at Grytviken, South Georgia.
45
In Focus: Mike O Shea Adventurer
Attempts to Reach the Poles These locations include some of the most remote and difficult places to reach in the world and although several of them are located near human settlements, no one has ever reached all 6 Poles of Inaccessibility. Mike aims to achieve this over a number of years, but to add to the difficulty he will travel across the full continent via each pole (coast to pole to coast), the journey began back in December 2016 travelling east to west across North America, then in 2017 he completed the South America leg of the expedition and in 2018 driving from Ireland, north to south across Africa. CAREER HIGHLIGHTS 1993 : Participated in a successful K2 expedition (as featured in the book "3 Cups of Tea") 2010 : First ever flight across the Irish Sa on Paramotor 2012 : Crossing of North Patagonian Icecap: 26 days on the ice 2013 : Full length crossing of world’s largest freshwater lake, Lake Baikal: 30 days on the ice 2014 : Attempt to walk to the North Pole : 15 days on the ice 2014 : 1st ever flight the length of Ireland by Paramotor 2015 : Greenland Crossing 2016-2018 : Completed 3 legs of the Poles of Inaccessibility Project, travelling east to west across North America, South America and north to south across Africa. 46
In Focus: Mike O Shea Adventurer
47
Restoring Farmland Biodiversity 48
Text by Donal Sheehan
Restoring Farmland Biodiversity Donal Sheehan
The BRIDE (Biodiversity Regeneration In a Dairying Environment) project is an innovative, pilot Agri-environment scheme set up to reverse the decline in farmland biodiversity. Donal Sheehan, who participates in the project, describes the problem and discusses solutions. The BRIDE project began in 2018 as a result of a successful funding application to the European Innovation Partnership (EIP) stream of funding. It came about from an obvious need to deal with the loss in biodiversity caused by farming intensification. 49
Restoring Farmland Biodiversity Donal Sheehan
Up to 2015, Europe had a limit on the amount of milk its farmers could produce, but then the quotas were lifted and suddenly land became the new ‘quota,’ meaning that there was suddenly a push to maximise the area of land that was farmed. This, in turn, meant that wildlife habitats such as hedgerows, wetlands and less productive areas of the farm were in danger of being removed, reclaimed or improved in order to produce more grass or cereals; this increased the rate of biodiversity decline. What the BRIDE project now hopes to do is put a value on these habitats so that farmers will be rewarded for retaining them and improving their quality. The project is very much based on a landscape-scale approach whereby all farmers in any given area are carrying out the same habitat management guidelines to improve biodiversity.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Biodiversity loss: who’s losing?
The loss in pollinating insects has been well documented, thanks to the All-Ireland Pollinator Plan, but what hasn’t got as much publicity is the decline in farmland bird species. The project surveyed over thirty farms in the pilot area (the Bride River valley catchment; the Bride is a tributary of the River Blackwater in Cork and Waterford) for farmland birds in 2018 as part of the data collection carried out to establish baseline information. A further fourteen farms were surveyed in 2019. It was found from these surveys that several species had disappeared from farms since the first Breeding Bird Atlas (1968-1972). Lapwing, Curlew, Cuckoo and, Snipe were not recorded on any of the farms and, while 50
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Restoring Farmland Biodiversity Donal Sheehan
Hen Harrier had bred in several areas in the catchment in 1968, only one was seen in 2018. The Corncrake had disappeared by 1968 and is now absent from most farmland in Ireland. Skylark and Meadow Pipit were previously widespread breeding species in the Bride valley but were only recorded on two farms last year. The Skylark is the symbolic bird of the project. To survive, it depends on 51
Restoring Farmland Biodiversity Donal Sheehan
both grassland farmers (for breeding habitat) and cereal farmers (for winter food). The Skylark showcases why all farmers need to be singing from the same hymn sheet when it comes to improving biodiversity. Interestingly, neither of the two farmers were aware they had breeding Skylarks on their land, but they are now carrying out specific measures to protect the bird, with the result that the birds are back breeding on both farms again this year. These farmers will receive a Target Species Payment as well as a Results-based Payment for properly managing their habitats. Farmers are often blamed for biodiversity loss, but no training or courses had been given to Bride valley farmers what you are saving! Because farmers are the caretakers of the land, they often get the blame for the loss in biodiversity. The way we manage our farms can certainly have either a positive or negative effect on a farm’s wildlife. But if we go back a step, we can see the other drivers of this problem. Farmers only get paid for producing as much milk, meat, vegetables or cereals as they can. No incentive is given to those farmers who manage their farms for biodiversity improvement. This means that if the consumer wants to support these farmers, the product is not there to purchase.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Farmers should have access to an ecologist who would identify and point out the important habitats and environmental benefits their farms are providing. Food companies could co-fund this, as they need to be able to verify their sustainable food credentials from their farmer food suppliers.
Eligible and non-eligible land Most farmers get a payment every year from the EU as a reward for complying with various welfare and environmental measures – this is 52
Restoring Farmland Biodiversity Donal Sheehan
called the Basic Payment Scheme (or CAP payment) and is paid on the productive part of the farm; this means the non-productive parts – scrub, woodland, ponds, etc – have no value. If, for example, trees are planted to create a woodland, or a pond is dug in the productive part of the farm to improve biodiversity, the area equivalent payment must be deducted from a farmer’s annual payment. As part of the BRIDE project, most of our forty-four farmers are creating wildlife ponds, planting deciduous woodland and tending new hedgerows and field and riparian margins. All these features will be created on land that is presently part of the productive area of their farm and, with this change of use, some farmers could be financially penalised.
Lessons learned, and what needs to change Education and awareness about the importance and relevance of farmland biodiversity among farmers and the farm industry needs to be dramatically improved. Both farmers and their advisors have been trained with a view to producing food as cheaply as possible without realising the environmental consequences. Farmers are very willing to make significant changes to improve biodiversity on their farms. Explaining the problem and showcasing a solution is the key to success. For more information on the BRIDE project, see www.thebrideproject.ie BirdWatch Ireland has been involved in this project since its inception and is a partner in the Operational Group. For more information on BirdWatch Ireland visit www.birdwatchireland.ie Reprinted from Wings (Summer 2020) Magazine of BirdWatch Ireland 53
Explorer, Statesman, Spy
Text by Ruth Illingworth 54
Explorer, Statesman, Spy
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1963) Part 2 Ruth Illingworth In 1921, the first reconnaissance of Mount Everest was made by a team of mountaineers and surveyors. The leader of the reconnaissance mission was an Anglo-Irish Army officer from the Midlands of Ireland called Charles Howard-Bury. He was one of the most remarkable figures in the history of early 20th-century exploration. During his long and varied careers as a soldier, intelligence officer, politician, landowner and charity worker, he worked and lived on three continents, spoke 27 languages and travelled through areas which had yet to be mapped or surveyed. One of the most treasured presents he could give to local people was a photo of the revered Abbot of Shekar Cho-te. This gentleman had lived at Shekar, one of the most important sacred sites in Tibet, for sixty-six years. Howard-Bury photographed him in his “Robes of beautiful golden brocades.” Across Tibet the Abbot was looked upon as a saint and worshipped. Howard-Bury was pleased to see the copies of the photo he took of the revered holy man being put in shrines and incense burned in front of them. 55
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
By the time the expedition party reached Sheker in mid-June, they had already suffered one major blow with the sudden death of Dr Kellas on June 5th. His death from dysentery and heart failure deprived the expedition of the man with the greatest experience of climbing at high altitude. He was buried at Khampa Dzong within sight of Everest - the mountain which he had photographed many times. It was, as HowardBury noted: “a fitting resting-place for a great mountaineer.” When the party left Khampa Dzong and the grave of Kellas they travelled towards Tingri through countryside which was unknown to European surveyors and cartographers. As George Mallory would memorably inform his wife in a letter: “We are about to walk off the map.”
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
As they travelled along, the expedition members had ”Several clear and distinct views of Mount Everest.” The journey brought them through Tinki to Chushar Nango. At the Tinki Pass Howard-Bury climbed a hill and could see “far away to the East to Chomolhari.” To the South-West “was a range of sharp granite peaks rising up to 22,000 feet.” While staying overnight in the village of Rongkong, Howard-Bury noted “a very beautiful and lofty peak to the South. The villagers called it Chomo Uri (The Goddess of the Turquoise Peak).” After much discussion, Howard-Bury wrote “we decided that this could be no other than Mount Everest.” The name they had heard was a local name for what in Tibetan was known as Chomo-lungma (Goddess Mother of the Country). The following Daykin the Bhong-chu valley, Howard-Bury separated himself from the main party and explored a peak at the North end of the valley. A climb of 3,000 feet brought him a wonderful view. “The view extended to the East from beyond Chomolhari to Gosainthan,a distance of some 250 miles. In the centre Mount Everest stood up all by itself,a wonderful peak towering above its neighbours and entirely without a 56
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
rival. “ On June 19th, a month after leaving Darjeeling, the expedition reached Tingri. This was to be their first base for reconnoitring the Northern and North-western approaches to Everest. Howard-Bury, who was in charge of logistics for the expedition, noted that Tingri made a good base because “Stores, supplies and transport were always available here as it was the headquarters of the district.” From a hill outside the town Everest could be clearly seen, and also Cho-Uyo, the 26,800 ft. peak just to the west of Everest. On June 24th, Mallory and Bullock left to reconnoitre the North and North western slopes of Everest, although Howard-Bury considered that “from this side it looks too steep to be climbed.” Howard-Bury was busy helping to develop photos along with the surveyor, Wheeler. He was ill for a few days after being accidently gassed by sulphur fumes from the acid hypo used in the development process, but he soon recovered. Another member of the expedition, Raeburn, had to return to Gangkok suffering from dysentery. Illness weakened the expedition as Howard-Bury noted with frustration. They were short of medical men and experienced climbers now. However the remaining members carried on with their work - often now moving off to do various different tasks such as surveying, climbing and developing the pictures. Howard-Bury was kept busy organising food supplies and was also sending back regular written reports to The Times in London. He continued to take a close interest in the plants, trees, flowers and animals of the area. Many new species of plant and flower were discovered and brought back to Kew Gardens. A species of white Primula was named after him, Primula buryana. He brought copies of the Bible and the Book of Common Prayer with him to Tibet and some dried Everest flowers remain pressed in the pages. 57
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
On June 26 Howard-bury headed south from Tingri. He climbed a hill 17,700 feet high which gave him a wonderful view of Everest and other mountains in the Himalaya range. Looking north he could see up to the watershed of the sacred Brahmaputra River. Amidst all this spectacular scenery he was also delighted to see “my old friend the dwarf blue poppy and many pretty white, blue and yellow saxifrages that grew on the rocks.”
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Along with Heron and Wheeler, Howard-Bury then set out to climb the Khombu Pass which led to the Khombu Valley in Nepal. They approached the pass by way of the Kyetrak Glacier, a fiercely challenging journey at some 19,000 feet, climbing up on mounds to take photos of the glacier. At times Howard-Bury was floundering up to his knees in soft snow and water while shouldering a big camera. The top of the pass offered fine views though somewhat obscured by cloud. By July 2nd, Howard-Bury was encamped at a village called Zambu with a clear view towards Everest. As Howard-Bury observed: “From this side its precipices looked most formidable and there was also a magnificent ridge which we had not seen before.” After a couple of days in the Rongbuk valley Howard-Bury and Heron met up with Mallory and Bullock again, who were training their Tibetan coolies in snow and ice work. By now they were little more than six miles from Everest and they could clearly see its immense cliffs 10,000 feet high. On July 5th, Howard-Bury and Heron headed down the Rongbuk Valley in order to reach the Kharta Valley which Howard-Bury believed would be the best site for a base camp from which to explore the approaches to Everest from the East side. Having established the camp at Kharta, Howard-Bury and his team continued their reconnaissance work. August 6th saw Howard-Bury in a 58
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
place called Tangsham. He spent the whole afternoon gazing at ”the immense cliffs of Chomolonzo” and Mount Everest right across the Kama Valley from where he was camped. On August 20th, following further reconnaissance, Mallory and Bullock returned from exploring the Upper Kharta Valley to report that they had found a possible route up Everest from this valley.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Howard-Bury continued exploring many more of the valleys and passes, climbing to heights of 15,000 feet in places and, at one place, a pass called Popti La, he was able to look into Nepal. September saw Mallory and Bullock make their attempt to get as close as they could to the summit of Everest-becoming the first Europeans to set foot on the mountain and moving up to some 26,000 feet on the ridge they called the North Col, before bad weather and altitude sickness and snow blindness forced a retreat. On September 5th, Howard-Bury, along with Wollaston, Raeburn (who had recovered from his sickness) and twenty-six Tibetan porters, headed up the Kharta Valley to join the climbing party, making an “Advanced base camp” at 17,350 feet. On September 8th, Bullock, Mallory and Howard-Bury made a short excursion along a ridge in order to keep fit. Howard-Bury commented that: “I found these gymnastics at a height of over 10,000 feet to be very exhausting, but Mallory did not seem to mind them in the least.” On September 17th, Howard-Bury, along with Mallory and Morshead, set out by moonlight to climb a peak to the South of their camp called Kama Changri. Howard-Bury what he witnessed: “To the West, and close at hand, towered up Mount Everest, still over 8,000 feet above us; at first showing up cold, grey and dead against a sky of deep purple. All of a sudden a ray of sunshine reached the summit, and 59
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
soon flooded the highest snows and ridges with golden light, while behind the deep purple of the sky changed to orange. Makalu was the next to catch the first rays of the sun and glowed as though alive; then the white sea of clouds was struck by the gleaming rays of the sun ,and all aglow with colour rose slowly and seemed to break against the island peaks in great billows of fleecy white. Such a sunrise has seldom been the privilege of man to see, and once seen can never be forgotten.”
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
The climb that day was very tough but after six hours Howard-Bury and his companions reached the top, 21,300 feet and were rewarded with a superb view with Makalu directly opposite them. “Glaciers, cliffs of ice, rock peaks, fluted snow ridges and immense mountains towered all around us above a vast sea of clouds which stretched for hundreds of miles away to the plains of India,” he noted in his diary. Howard-Bury took many photos during the three hours on the top of Kama Changri. His pictures remain a vivid and beautiful record of the Everest Reconnaissance even now, almost a century after they were taken. The day after the climb bad weather prevented any movement and the men kept themselves from going to sleep too soon by playing bridge. As Howard-Bury noted, “I do not suppose that bridge has often been played at so great a height.” By September 20th, the team had made a new camp at a place called Lhakpa La. It was now much colder and windier. The reconnaissance work went on and a climb one day gave Howard-Bury another superb view right across the Himalaya down into Sikkim and Nepal. On September 22nd, Howard-Bury noticed what looked like human footprints in the snow and commented in his diary that they “were probably caused by a large 'loping' grey wolf, which in the soft snow 60
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
formed double tracks rather like a those of a bare-footed man,” although his Tibetan porters “at once volunteered that the tracks must be that of 'The Wild Man of the Snows', to which they gave the name metohkangmi.” Howard-Bury regarded this figure as a sort of Tibetan “bogeyman”-a creature invented to scare naughty children. Following interviews with the team when they eventually returned to Darjeeling after the Reconnaissance Expedition, the story, with the help of journalist, Bill Tillman, took wings and became an encounter with the “Abominable Snowman.” The story fascinated people across the world and upon his return to Europe, Howard-Bury found himself being quizzed about “this new race of people” that had been discovered! Howard-Bury managed to climb to a height of 22,350 feet to a point just opposite the North Col which joins Everest to Changtse (the North Peak). He concluded that “from this col was, as far as we were able to judge, the only route to the summit.” (at least from the Tibetan side.) He braved the intense cold to take as many photos as he could. Over the next couple of days, Mallory, Bullock and Wheeler would make their reconnaissance of the mountain itself to see how high they could get. Howard-Bury later wrote about how he and the rest of the party were: “Able with our glasses to see black specs appearing on top of the Lhakpa La. These were the Alpine climbers and their coolies returning after their strenuous efforts on Mount Everest.” The expedition was now ready to turn back, having got as close as they could to the summit and worked out a route to the top of the world's highest mountain. Howard-Bury was able to fulfil one personal ambition. On September 27th, he crossed the Kangshung Glacier and, from a spur was able to see Makalu, Everest and Chomolonzo. 61
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
He could also see ”a few thousand feet of the Southern slopes of Mount Everest which we had been unable to see from any other point before.” He took more photographs there and further down as the party headed back down to Kharta which the expedition reached on September 30th. By October 11th they had reached Khamba Dzong and on October 25th, with winter coming down they reached Darjeeling. On the journey back across Tibet and Sikkim, Howard-Bury continued to take a great interest in the customs of the Tibetan people, whom he seems to have quite liked. He was bemused by their habit of referring to distances in terms of cups of tea - that, for example, some place was three cups of tea away!
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
The 1921 Reconnaissance expedition was a total success. The whole north side of Everest was mapped and explored and a feasible route to the summit via the North Col at 23,000 feet had been established. The expedition accomplished all that it had set out to do. Furthermore, Howard-Bury and his team had truly, as Mallory had told his wife, “walked off the map.” Howard-Bury set out what they had achieved, quite apart from working out a route to the summit of Everest: “Our travels had taken us through much unexplored and new country. A new part of the country has been opened up to human knowledge. It has been photographed and described. The surveyors have made an original survey at a scale of 4 miles to the inch of an area of some 12,000 square miles; a detailed photographic survey of 600 square miles of the environs of Mount Everest has been worked out, and besides this, the maps of another, 4,000 square miles of country have been revised.” Howard-Bury returned to Britain to find that he and his comrades were now famous across the world. When the RGS and Alpine Club united in welcoming home the expedition party at an event in the Queen's Hall in London, the hall was packed out. There was also huge interest in a display of a selection of the over 600 photographs taken by HowardBury and his colleagues put on by the Alpine Club in January 1922. 62
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
Howard-Bury's picture of the revered Abbot of Shekar Chote was especially popular. The King and the Prince of Wales also were keen to meet the men who had “walked off the map” and in the case of Bullock and Mallory, had become the first Europeans to set foot on Everest. Howard-Bury now set about preparing an account of the expedition for publication, in collaboration with Mallory and other members of the team. “MOUNT EVEREST, THE RECONNAISSANCE, 1921” was published by Edward Arnold in 1922. A special limited and numbered edition was published in America, while a French edition, “A LA CONQUETE DU MONT EVEREST” was published in 1923 with a preface by Prince Roland Napoleon which addressed Howard-Bury's achievements in the context of his famous contemporaries, Amundsen and Shackleton. Howard-Bury was awarded the Founder's Medal of the RGS on March 20th, 1922, “for his distinguished services in command of the Mt Everest Expedition.” Plans were now advanced for a second expedition in 1922 which would make an attempt on the summit by way of the route mapped out in 1921. Howard-Bury was considered as a possible leader of this new expedition but the RGS and Alpine Club wanted an experienced mountaineer and appointed General Charles Bruce. Howard-Bury was disappointed not to be given a chance to complete the work he had begun and concerned that the Expedition was becoming purely a climbing venture with no interest being shown in anything else. But he paid a gracious public tribute to Bruce as someone, “whose unrivalled knowledge of climbing and climactic conditions in the Himalayas, specially fitted him for the work.” 63
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
Howard-Bury's place in Everest history is assured, as Audrey Salkeld, expert on the mountaineering history of Mt Everest, has acknowledged. Walt Unsworth, also an expert on Everest, has said “I would say that Howard Bury's background knowledge of people in power made a firm foundation for the first three expeditions (1921, 1922,1924). He was undoubtedly a good expedition leader.”
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
The Leader of the successful 1953 expedition, Sir John Hunt, in the Foreword to the 1991 edition of EVEREST RECONNAISSANCE, made this assessment of Howard-Bury: “We who first climbed Everest thirty-two years later, have much for which to thank our predecessors and, in particular, Howard Bury and his team.” It is believed that when the summit of Everest was finally reached by Hillary and Tenzing in 1953, Howard-Bury, along with the Queen Mother, was the first to be told the news that Everest had finally been conquered. No higher tribute could be paid to Howard-Bury's significance and achievements in the Everest story.
POLITICS AND THE RED CROSS 1922-1945 In November 1922, just a year after his return from Everest, HowardBury finally got to embark on the political career which he had planned a decade earlier. His international fame and awards (the French Geographical Society had also awarded him their Gold Medal) made him an attractive candidate for all political parties and in the 1922 General Election he became the Conservative M.P for the Bilston Division of Wolverhampton. He lost his seat in 1924 but returned to Parliament in 1926 for Chelmsford, Essex. In 1925, he also sought election to the Senate of the newly created Irish Free State, but was unsuccessful. During his parliamentary career, Howard-Bury spoke frequently on a wide range of topics from taxation to Defence. He took a close interest in 64
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
Irish affairs and was vocal in raising the issue of compensation for the Irish Loyalists who had lost their property and sometimes had had to flee Ireland in the aftermath of the 1919/23 “Troubles”. His own cousin, Lord Lansdowne, had lost his house, Dereen, to arsonists and Howard-Bury had feared, during his time in Tibet, that Belvedere House or his mother’s home, Charleville Castle might also be destroyed. Happily the properties survived unscathed. Howard-Bury put pressure on the British Government until they agreed to pay compensation to those who had suffered by circumstances in the setting up of the Free State. Howard-Bury was also a vocal campaigner for human rights. He raised in parliament the issue of the persecution of Christians in the Soviet Union. During his journey across Russia in 1913 he had bought flowers from impoverished children at railway halts. Now he planted flowers at Belvedere House in memory of the countless children who died from hunger and disease during the Russian Revolution and Civil War.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
He opposed the British Government proposal to set up a Jewish homeland in Palestine as he believed that it would violate the rights of the Palestinian Arabs and would lead to trouble in the region. He visited Palestine (then a British colony) in 1929 and served as Parliamentary Private Secretary to his fellow Anglo-Irishman, Walter Guinness, Lord Moyne, who was Under Secretary of State for War in the 1920’s. Moyne would later be assassinated in Cairo by the extremist Zionist terrorist group, the Stern Gang in 1944 and it is possible that Howard-Bury may have also been a target for the Gang on that occasion as he was in Egypt at the time. George Mallory had disliked Howard-Bury, seeing him as “very much the Tory Landlord”. He was a little unfair to Howard-Bury but there is no doubt that, in some of his political views, he was very much a man of his time and class. He had no time for Indian nationalism, regarding 65
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
Gandhi as a “nuisance” and believing sincerely that India was better off under British rule. He admired the “martial races” of the Empire such as the Sikhs and the Pathans, while disliking the Westernised nationalists such as Nehru. On Irish matters, Howard-Bury had been a Unionist in his youth and he supported the new Northern Irish statelet, while critical of what he saw as Unionist intransigence. However he loved Ireland and would give his loyalty to the newly independent Free State. It is partly due to his energetic campaigning that the Hugh Lane Art collection is now in Dublin, as Lane had wanted it to be.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Howard-Bury retired from parliament at the 1931 General Election. In the same year his mother died and he inherited Charleville Castle from her, with its beautiful and extensive parklands and woods. He preferred Belvedere House, however and spent most of his time there when he was in Ireland. He was now a very wealthy man and he continued to travel widely in Europe, the Middle East and North Africa. His wide circle of friends included politicians, explorers and writers. With the outbreak of the Second World War he became a Deputy Commissioner of the British Red Cross. It was in this job that he met Rex Beaumont. Rex was an actor, born in Yorkshire in 1914. He had appeared on the stage in Stratford on Avon and his voice had been praised by Sir John Gielgud, his acquaintances included Ivor Novello and Noel Coward. During the war, Rex served in the RAF. He would also be involved with the Red Cross and would help look after the survivors of Bergen-Belsen after the camp was liberated. In Rex, Colonel Howard-Bury had found his soul mate. Rex shared his passion for flowers and his zest for life. On leave the RAF Rex began coming to Belvedere House and as Marian Keaney, Howard-Bury’s biographer noted: “Rex was soon nurturing the neglected gardens with their extensive collections of plants and shrubs brought back from the Colonel's travels. He rearranged the family paintings and gave famous dinner parties.” Rex and Howard-Bury would remain together until the 66
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
death of Howard-Bury in 1963, a much respected couple in the Mullingar area.
TUNISIA, JAMAICA AND MULLINGAR 1945- 1963. AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
In the final years of the Second World War, Howard-Bury worked for the Red Cross and St John Ambulance Brigade, helping to deal with the immense refugee problems the war had created in Southern Europe and elsewhere. He may also have still being involved in Intelligence work. After the war he bought a citrus farm in the Tunisian town of Hammamet and built a fine villa, Dar-al-Oud, where he and Rex entertained explorers, writers and statesmen. The French novelist, AndrĂŠ Malraux compared notes with Howard-Bury on the temples they had both visited in Indo-China. The explorer Freya Stark was a frequent visitor and, on one occasion Rex's donkey chewed her sun hat! The first President of independent Tunisia, Habib Bourguiba, was a close friend. The gardens at Dar-el-Oud were filled with beautiful flowers and plants and there was also a pet snake, Mahmoud, When Mahmoud died, Howard-Bury and Rex had his skin turned into two pairs of slippers. Another friend of Howard-Bury's was the Intelligence Officer turned author, Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond. In the 1950s, HowardBury and Rex sometimes spent winter holidays at Fleming's house in Jamaica. Howard-Bury and Rex were popular and respected around Mullingar, where they were frequent and generous donors -usually in secret to many local charities. Howard-Bury was involved with the Royal British Legion in Tullamore for many years, attending the annual Remembrance Sunday Service in the town. In Mullingar he served on the Select Vestry of All 67
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
Saints' Church. He was also on very friendly terms with the local Roman Catholic clergy. In August 1962, a party was held in the Greville Arms Hotel in Mullingar to celebrate his fifty years of residence in Belvedere and his entering his 80th year. There were 250 guests, including clergy, politicians, staff from Belvedere and many others who knew him. The M.C for the night was local Roman Catholic priest, Father Finian O’Connor, who told the gathering of his admiration for Howard-Bury and how he had been “enthralled at meeting him” many years earlier. He praised the HowardBury’s qualities, “his simplicity, his real gentleness at all times and his great sensitivity. He had met few people with such qualities.”
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
To the end of his life, Howard-Bury retained his interest in the world of mountaineering and exploration. He was an honoured guest at the Centenary Dinner of the Alpine Club in 1957 and, as has been mentioned was one of the very first people in Britain to be told that Everest had finally been summited. On one occasion he invited Noel Odell, a member of the 1924 Expedition and possibly the last person to see Mallory and Irvine alive as they climbed towards the summit, to lunch at Belvedere. Odell recalled how Howard-Bury took him and his wife on a tour of the fine gardens, “and with considerable pride showed us his lovely Chumbi roses, then in full bloom, derived from those he had collected in the Chumbi valley in 1921.” Charles Howard-Bury died one month after his 80th birthday, on September 20th 1963. He is buried in the Bury family vault at St Catherine's Church in Tullamore. Rex Beaumont continued to live at Belvedere until ill health and financial difficulties forced him to move out in 1980, although he was able to return shortly before his death in 1988. Belvedere is now the property of Westmeath County Council and some photographs and biographical information on Howard-Bury are on 68
Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1863) Explorer, Botanist, Statesman, Spy Ruth Illingworth
display in the house. There is also an excellent exhibition of items related to Charles Howard-Bury in the Greville Arms Hotel, Mullingar. A new edition of EVEREST RECONNAISSANCE, edited by Marian Keaney was published in 1991. The Tian Shan Diaries were edited by Keaney and first published in 1990 A complete biography of Charles Howard-Bury: explorer, intelligence officer, politician, photographer, hunter, landlord, charity worker and soldier is still to be written.
69
“Never forget that life can only be nobly inspired and rightly lived if you take it bravely and gallantly, as a splendid adventure in which you are setting out into an unknown country, to face many a danger, to meet many a joy, to find many a comrade, to win and lose many a battle.� Annie Besant
Ross Casle, Killarney Š anikinearthwalker.
WEB EXPERTS inspire audiences around the world with captivating tales of adventures, encapsulating themes which include pushing boundaries, leadership, scientiďŹ c and environmental research, motivation and teamwork. FOR SPEAKING, EVENT AND CONSULTANCY ENQUIRIES:
WWW.WORLDEXPLORERSBUREAU.COM
