A SECOND SOUL TING HSUAN CHEN, 2015
A SECOND SOUL Concept & Research Starting from the news which tells a three-year-old boy has body of his absorbed sibling growing inside his stomach and needed surgery. More and more news reports indicate that there is “absorbed twin” or “parasitic sibling” has been born. Both of them are totally different from conjoined twins which will not survive when one twin absorbs the other or die. Survival of the fitness, when these two siblings are not parallel strong, the weaken or defected fetus would be partially or completely absorbed by the other in the womb. Such evolvement might aspire extra limbs or semi-developed organs to the survival baby.
I collect different cases of parasitic twins and also review the literature in the past. The anthroponomy of the middle ages draw my attention by their interesting and delicate sketches.
Left Page－Freak Shows were popular in the past especially around 19th century. People with unusual physical features were sometimes recruited. Right－Part of the imagination drawing toward conjoined babies in the middle ages. I also made some embroidery with pleated silk to shape and fill the silhouette with nonsuspended lines to try the idea of extension.
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After all my researches, I started to think: Although there is only body and one identable character left, perhaps the unborn sibling inside the same body will like to dress up in a different way and they have their own personalities.
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Left pageďź? Starting from some normal front and collars, I sketch some design straightly develop from the toile. Top Rightďź? Starting to change the angle I view. Cutting the pictures of toile and place them on other parts.
A SECOND SOUL Experiment & Process “The unborn sibling may have unique soul to grow and present himself/herself in different styles.” Thinking of keeping the idea as the cord concept to this collection, I drape many different types and silhouette which are not relevant to others. Some of them inspired me to make some first stage sketches directly from the shapes or details, but I keep most of them for the next coming section: creating collages.
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Top Left & Rightďź? After resetting and layering these printed materials into suitable angles and make collages, I complete some details according to the silhouettes.
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Left pageďź? Details has been continued adding to the rebuilt silhouette. At this step, suitable fabrics are being considered as well.
Different types of details and atmosphere are gathered in the same look. I have to keep them clean and complicated/rich in the same time without over doing with the materials.
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Top－ Part of the silhouettes I get after doing collages. Bottom－ After getting rough shapes, I mark the potential silhouettes. This step helps me to have a more clear version of the final collection.
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Final Line-upďź? I sort out all the results of collages again and again. Carrying the main concept and being wearable are very important in this collection. Details are more visible in this stage as well.
Layering, crossing patterns and 3D-structures become important elements in this collection. Furthermore, half of the clothing are not for specific gender, they can be wore by both men and women. The silhouettes also play major roles when choosing fabrics. (Next page)
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After draping toiles for some potential pleats and silhouette inspired by spinal, I have the idea of transform it to the side seam. Experiment with tracing paper tells that semi-transparent materials/ fabric will do a good job when showing the crossing layers. The final fabric is crepe chiffon, very tricky to handle and requires highly attention and patient.
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Top & Middle Leftďź? Thin and mercerized fine cotton can show beautiful curves on the shoulders and keep the main silhouette with. Bottom Right & Right Pageďź? Details and process of making the coat of Look2.
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Look3 has been one of the most difficult look to deal with. Especially using draping and pattern drafting in the same time to get the correct shape.
After three times of pattern making and 3D adjusting with different version of prototypes, the final come out is quite successful.
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A horizontal collar across the side seam and become another coat’s front part at the back.
There are different types of collars crossing through different parts of Look5. Cutting lines are vital when jointing different parts of the patterns. All the adjustments require careful planning.
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Continuing the pattern drafting of half-section belly. Adding extra layers above the original pattern shows more details. The top shape look like two turn-a-side shawl collars. The pattern goes down and connect the popping abdomen. Fine wool with wool fusible interlining are the perfect choice for this silhouette.
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Right Page－Connect patterns together to check curves. Result of first fitting, some lines have to be re-patterned.
A SECOND SOUL Garment
Display
Perhaps, they never disappeared or vanished in this world‌.