CHEN, TING HSUAN’S
PORTFOLIO
Curriculum Vitae PERSONAL INFORMATION
NAME// Chen, Ting-Hsuan
DATE OF BIRTH// 20.04.1991 AGE// 24 NATIONALITY// Taiwan (R.O.C.) ADDRESS// 23F-1, No.108, Wufu 1st Rd., Xinxing Dist., Kaohsiung 800, Taiwan MOBILE PHONE// +886931367479 E-MAIL// catherine_420@hotmail.com
EDUCATION
2015 Graduate from Fu Jen Catholic University 2013 ~ 2014 Student Exchange and major in Textile and Engineering- Boras University, Sweden 2012.07 Short Design course in Central Saint Martins 2009
Begin of Bachelor in Fashion Design at the Department of Textile and Clothing - Fu Jen Catholic University, Taiwan
INTERNSHIP
2011.07 ~ 2011.09 OEMEC Corp. - Design Department 2010.10 ~ 2011.12 Johan Ku Design Studio
AWARD RECORD
2014 First Place - Industry-University Cooperative Project with Spaceport Sweden 2013 Honorable Mention – Annual Graduate Competition of Textiles & Clothing Department 2012 Bronze Medal - Fashion Week Competition of Textiles & Clothing Department
JOB HISTORY
2014.08 ~ Freelance Designer 2014.02 ~ 2015.07 Shiatzy Chen - Designer Assistant (http://www.shiatzychen.com/)
2015 PERSONAL WORK
A SECOND SOUL Inspiration
In this universe, all the spices follow the rule as “Survival of the fitness” in the natural field. This case not only happens to any other animal but civilized human beings.
More and more news reports indicate that there is “absorbed twin” or “parasitic sibling” has been born. Either of them is totally different from conjoined twins which can’t be survived when one twin absorbs the other. In case, these two siblings are not parallel strong, the weaken or defected fetus would be partially or completely absorbed by the other in the womb. Such evolvement might aspire extra limbs or semideveloped organs to the survival baby. I believe- Probably they never disappeared or vanished in this world. They just slightly became a second soul of this body….
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Research & Process
Starting from the news which tells a three-year-old boy has body of his absorbed sibling growing inside his stomach and needed surgery. I collect different cases and pictures of parasitic twins and also review the literature in the past. The anthropotomy of the middle ages draw my attention by their interesting and delicate sketches.
Top－One of the news and the thought I have after viewing the cases. Bottom Left－Freak Shows were popular in the past especially around 19th century. People with unusual physical features were sometimes recruited.
Top Right－ Some anthropotomy drawings of conjoined spinal cords at the last middle ages. I am in love with these shapes and will have more work for the coming pages.
A SECOND SOUL
Bottom Right－The way that people used to describe how twins look like in the womb were pretty fresh to me. I stitch some crepe silk sheer together and make small limbs by a rough idea in the beginning.
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I have great interesting toward bone shapes for a long time. The changing shape of spine inspired me to use semitransparent materials to try reinterpreting the way on our bodies. Bottom－ By using tracing papers, I try more ways to twist and adjust the angle of normal patterns. Also, I repeat some cutting lines such as the under sleeve by pleats and make them have more possibility.
After draping toiles for some potential pleats and silhouette inspired by spine, I have the idea of transform it to the side seam. Experiment of tracing paper tells that semitransparent materials/ fabric will do a good job of showing the layers.
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Right Page－ The images of middle ages Anthropotomy also make me curious about the modern anatomy. I find a body section picture of pregnant woman with twins in her womb. I try making the plumping shape of belly with some pleats transformed. And maintain the silhouette as a half-section look.
A early thinking and some sketches appeared after doing the draping experiment. I have further movement of them when finishing the coming experiments. CHEN, TING-HSUAN’S PORTFOLIO︱04
Top－ My favorite drawing in this sketchbook. It shows different angles as well as effects caused by various distances between two heads either closer or farther. Different patterns and fabrics in the same silhouette would be an interesting way to try next on. Bottom－ Sketches about combing the previous idea to the new one.
The dressed-up man above make me think- Perhaps the unborn sibling inside the same body will like to dress up in a different way and they have their own personalities.
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“The unborn sibling may have unique soul to grow and present himself/herself in different styles.” Thinking of keeping the idea as the cord concept to this collection, I drape many different types and silhouette to make the possibility of “multi-souls in one body” feasible. Un-expected curves and big layered collars appear on the unusual body part. Also, I retry to drape the spinal pleats with twist.
Left page－ Starting from some normal front and collars, I sketch some design straightly develop from the toile. Top Right－ Starting to change the angle I view. Cutting the pictures of toile and place them on other parts.
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Top Left & Right－ Broken down pieces of previous experiments has been re-joined together on the same look and become different part of garments.
Bottom Left & Top Right－ After resetting and layering these printed paper into suitable angles, I complete some details according to the silhouettes.
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Left page－ Details has been continued adding to the rebuilt silhouette. At this step, suitable fabrics are being considered as well.
Different types of details and atmosphere are gathered in the same look. I have to keep them clean and complicated/rich in the same time without over doing with the materials.
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Top－ Part of the silhouettes I get after piecing them together. Bottom－ After getting rough shapes, I mark the potential silhouettes more clearly.
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Final Looks－ I sort out all the results again and again. Being both meaningful and wearable/logical are very important in my design
Bottom－ The story effects the way of choosing fabrics. I want the collection starts with semi-transparent materials and then move to a more solid result. Telling the story about the second soul gets more and more visible and strong. Their sensation become clearer than it was in the beginning
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Right Page－ First model fitting of Look2. The length and volume needed to be adjusted. The main fabric for skirt is double-sided jacquard. I use both side of it on different patterns.
Top & Middle Left－ Thin and sized fabric can show beautiful curves on the shoulders and keep the main silhouette with volume (-Look 1). Bottom Right－ Details and process of making the coat of Look2.
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Top Right Fabric－ Digital printing contains texture of veins and middle ages drawing which presents the meaning of non-separable souls.
Left Page－ I focus on transforming the cutting lines and think about reconnecting two shawl collars cross the side patterns. Right Page－ Putting previous experiment into practice and try three different types of proportion. The crepe sheer is very hard to deal with. I have to pin all the patterns on the fabric, then carefully iron stay tape at one side of them. Do stiches around the edge then cut them down.
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Look3 has been one of the most difficult look to deal with. Especially using draping and pattern drafting in the same time to get the right silhouette. All prototypes help doing adjusting sizes clearer. As the main turning point of the whole collection, I use peach-skin finished cotton with wool fusible interlining combine with stiff sheer.
To keep some semitransparent elements, I destroy and re-stitch up two fabrics.
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Bottom－A horizontal collar across its side face and become another coat front at the back.
Left Page－There are different types of collars crossing through different parts of Look5. Cutting lines are adjusted carefully. I pay attention to the connection between pattern and fabric features. This fine thick twill with beautiful quality suits this design well.
Right Page－ Continuing the pattern drafting of half-section belly. I decide to add extra layers above the original pattern. The top shape look like two turn-a-side shawl collars. The pattern goes down and connect the popping abdomen. Fine wool with wool fusible interlining will be the perfect choice for this silhouette.
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Left Page－Connect patterns together to check curves. Result of first fitting, some lines have to be re-patterned.
A SECOND SOUL
Garment Display
Perhaps, they never disappeared or vanished in this world….
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2013 GRADUATE PROJECT
That Creature, That Women, Ondine Inspiration
“One day, we all have to survive together essentially.” The combination of abnormal genes make us have the ability to live under the water. We are no longer eager to gain more air as we used to. Flexible shell and silicon-like skin grow out on our body surface. We’ve exchanged our DNA with Crustaceans and other species under the ocean. None of us are pure human being at that time. I have good interest toward sci-fi movie, especially when those stories show some really different/unique scenes and conceptions of the future world. I believe - if people do not stop population explosion and polluted lands are no longer suitable for living, we all have to live with ocean. Fullydeveloped science and technology allow us to increase our survival ratios “cooperating” with other creatures. Will the first new-born be scary? We all have to survive together, and her name is Ondine. (Ondine, the name of female monster of water. Adapting from old European mythology.)
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Images－ My First trial of the rough concept at my early 19. This simple experiment encourage me to try more possibility on my graduation project.
That Creature, That women, Ondine Former Simple Experiment
I got this concept when I was a sophomore. The idea was very rough and I just wanted to complete the first imagination of: layered, breathable-skin and Crustaceans shell become our new spine…. I made two looks of this small experiment. The patterning and sewing skills were not mature enough, and some details were not considered then. However, this first try did give me more thought and increase my experience after talking to teachers and technicians. CHEN, TING-HSUAN’S PORTFOLIO︱21
Research & Process
Lots of different images of genetically modified humans and future world from Sci-fi movies can not stop passing through my mind from time to time. One day, a stunning picture from Daily Mail Online just appeared in my sight. The name of this beautiful crustacean is “Bathynomus Giganteus.” They live in deep waters and are known as the biggest arthropods in the world. Milky white shells, delicate symmetrical foot, and complicated silhouette all make me fascinated. I am strongly inspired by this creature and start to search for more deep sea livings. Top－New born bathynomus with translucent details. Bottom－Various un-familiar creatures living in dark and cold abysmal seas. Most of them are scavengers.
Top Right－ Some anthropotomy drawings of conjoined spinal cords at the last middle ages. I am in love with these shapes and will have more work for the coming pages.
That Creature, That women, Ondine
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Mind map－ “Bythynomus Giganteus” is the starting point of this story. I search for other under-sea creatures and find it interesting if I “reproduce” their unique textures. On the other hand, moving on with the translucent structure of baby Bythnomous Giganteus, which can be considered as a source of material too, I connect it with x-ray pictures and move forward to bone construction of multi-species. Again, I am in love with these beautiful curves created and formed by natural genes.
Mind map－ Skeletons of unusual creatures may also be a interesting ways to develop. Famous move “Alien” gives us the view of future exploration. People can give birth to these species. Who can assure that they do not have any of our DNA? The whole story has been formed completely with an idea of “cyborg” came out after alien. I, end up, decide to call this NEW HUMAN “Ondine.” She is not creepy but elegant and beautiful just like other creatures in this world. And, maybe in the future, there is no pure human being anymore…. Top Right－ The imageboard and colours of final concept.
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There are various kinds of species under the sea. Special corals with translucent tentacles waving in the water. Countless and different textures on their surface inspire me to do experiment of fabric for “mimicking” these effects. Left－Tunicate, they are thin and delicate, or transparent and gelatinous. They live on rocks close to corals. Right page－ Detailed texture of corals inspired me to use “heat setting” on fabric. A crepe polyester organza will be a suitable material to start with. The light weight and crispness of the organza allows small spires to remain tight. After ironing and cooling, the effect of spire shape looks good.
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Left & Middleďź? Then I continue to try heat setting with a thinner/looser crepe polyester mesh. Its own construction and crispness show less impressive result than the previous polyester organza. However, I think I can make a semi-transparent top with similar fabric which should be a little bit less see-through. Maybe, it will be a possible new skin for future world.
Bottom Rightďź? Trying to heat setting plastic with special stitches pattern. It ends out with irregular shape and the pattern does not present in an obvious way. The final form and silhouette are both hard to maintain either.
Bottom Right－ I move forward to sketch looks by the inspiration I got from heat setting polyester sheer. My first idea of this collection is a short textured backless top with flounce detail on both sides at its back. After trying many times with different fabric, I decide to use crepe polyester sheer with little stiffness which keeps its finished shape nicely.
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Shapes of bones, aliens and of course arthropods (Bathynomus Giganteus) inspire me the most for creating main silhouettes for this collection. Though I am fascinated by their complicated shells and structures, in my way of doing design, I am comfortable with simplicity and keep their original beauty at the same time. Before using the main fabric (neoprene and printed satin/TC ), I do different prototypes to help me understand its final possibilities better.
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In my imagination, the whole collection should be mixed with texture and silhouette, from light to heavy, from translucent to solid and show the concept of evolution step by step. Digital printing will be a good medium between pop-out textures and heavy-construction outlines Right Page－ After picking up almost all the fabrics I need, I print them with different images and colours to see which effect suits my needs.
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Left－ The first prototype of “outer-spine”. I use detailed “air mesh fabric” with similar feel and thickness to neoprene. Their construction makes it easier and more stable to sew than normal neoprene. For building the outer-spine of the last look, I make a pattern of spine base with edges surrounded by iron wires and fix it by stitching around for staliblity. At the final finishing, I set some eyelets and add matte translucent tubes through some shells and body parts to mix/emphasize the cyborg idea.
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Final Collection－ From light to heavy, translucent to solid, and little mutation to obvious skeleton change. I decide to play with both texture experiments and digital printing to complete this collection and make this whole evolution step by step. CHEN, TING-HSUAN’S PORTFOLIO︱31
That Creature, That women, Ondine
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2016 DEVELOPING PROJECT
STRAIGHT OUTTA DiMENSiON Inspiration
I am easy to be attracted by unusual/nontraditional art works. I was impressed by M. C. Escher’s woodcut print: Another World when I was 15. Its details and delicate lines are fascinating. I started to do more research about M. C. Escher’s life and his history of creation. And luckily, there was an exhibition with more than hundreds of Escher’s art works took place in Taiwan two years ago. I got chance to look into his masterpieces and understand how he develops his works. Escher’s works are full of silhouette transformation and multi-possibilities through our sight. Also, they inspired me to think about the relationship between our bodies and garments. From two-dimensional space to the rich 3D world. Thinking of playing with both pattern drafting and the changing of materials to probe the feasibility of spatial development and body shape, I see great potential of this concept.
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STRAIGHT OUTTA DiMENSiON Research & Process
Escher’s works including impossible objects, reflection, symmetry, perspective, tessellations, etc. I like the way he twists space and combines the idea of different dimensions with both virtual and reality. After knowing how Escher mixes tessellation with virtual and reality from the exhibition, I decide to deconstruction some of his work and re-manage those pieces again.
Right page－ A large number of Escher’s works show the relationship between symmetry and tessellations. From top to bottom: Day & Night (1938) , Encounter (1944), and Mosaic (1951).
Left Page－ One of my favorite work: Reptiles. This work inspire me to think about translate flat drawings to touchable texture work.
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I check publications and websites to recall my memories of how Escher made tessellation works. During these experiments, I come out with more ideas of playing this concept with both pattern drafting and different printing skills, because most of Escher’s art works are wood engraving prints. Using printing can connect our works closer.
Left－ Principle of the square division that Escher used. Most
of his works were created through accurate calculation.
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Middle－ I start to cut and re-paste Escher’s birds metamorphosis
print. And think about different ways to present a look with multi- materials. Top Left－In these two drawing, Escher shows the creation of a metamorphosis. Right－Some simple pattern drafting and material check.
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Middle－ Some preliminary sketches combine the idea of mixing chessboard pattern and
houndstooth check.
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Left－A more specific sketch for my first experiment/prototype. Right－I use some second hand fabrics/garments with different size chessboard pattern and houndstooth check. Each piece of “puzzles” here is layered with different number of crepe, mesh, plastic, and prints.
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Left page－ Details of fabric and tessellation. Right page－ First prototype with variations of dimension and material.
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To be Continue－After making this first prototype, I find more ways to play with this concept. I learned numerous printing/ dyeing skills, for example: digital printing, tie-dye, foam printing, fleece planting, etc. These printing skills can also transform Escher’s flat prints into a three-dimensional feeling. Embroidery is a interesting way to try as well. On the other hand, There are some details and making processes needed to be corrected or upgraded. CHEN, TING-HSUAN’S PORTFOLIO︱43
2014 SWEDEN INDUSRTIAL COOPERATE PROJECT
FIRST SPACE KIT Inspiration
This part f the portfolio is the outcome of a project and collaboration between the Spaceport Sweden and the Swedish School of Textiles in Borås. The task was to create textile products for Spaceport Sweden, and the result presented in this case is ”The First Space Kit”, a company that design and produce profile clothing for Spaceport Sweden. These clothes are also included in the exclusive kit which all space travelers receive when they buy a ticket into space and start there training for the upcoming space adventure. The First Space Kit jacket is a traditional, but innovative light down jacket which is developed to be sustainable and suitable for the space theme. The clothes have been designed, developed and produced in a collaboration with us students and I worked as the main designer in this case
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Business Plan－Each item is carefully selected, and there is only room for the most qualitative, innovative and constructive products available on the market. Examples of products and brands we work with are; action camera from GoPro, pulse watch from Garmin, gloves from Hestra and water bottle from Sigg. Besides technical gear there are a collection of Spaceport Sweden profile clothing, including an outdoor jacket and pants. The design is functional, innovative and futuristic, inspired of space with a clean modern silhouette, yet with a playful twist. The profile clothing can be used before and during the adventure, but also afterwards, as a unique souvenir. Wherever one might encounter the profile clothing, its design should create associations to Spaceport Sweden and the obvious that this person has experienced one of the biggest adventures of a lifetime. First Space Kit’s core values are high quality, sustainability, functionality and innovation.
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To define the final customer more specifically, everyone who buys a ticket into space with Spaceport Sweden will receive our product. The aim is for everyone to be able to be sent up to space, but First Space Kit thinks that the typical person, and also target group, would be adventurous and sporty people, thrilled by the idea to experience something unique and slightly dangerous. Starting with the connection of functional and fashionable, the layers and padding-liked details of the real astronaut suit made us think about the down jacket. The modern architectures designed by Zaha Hadid also inspired us. On the other hand, we hope our product is also fashionable and make people feel good when they put the garments on. Some fashion trends like neat modern silhouette and neon color is indispensable in our design.
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Moodboard－ We want the project of leaving the earth’s surface to be not just an activity, but to more have the feeling of making a journey into space. Our company mission is to provide nice space outfit and travelling pack suitcases to use during the trip, the First Space Kit will be as convenient as a first aid kit.
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Sketches & Design－ The silhouette is inspired by the modern architecture. With clean and straight cutting lines of the padding part, the angles also have the effect of figure flattering. We decided to have the gradient colours shown by the dyed padding inside the semi-transparent fabric rather than dyed the fabric on the top. This will make the design more playful than the traditional way of doing a down jacket There are many pockets on the top and the bottom Wearers can carry small things or memo easily with them during their training or trip. The belts on the jacket and the pants are used for hanging some rings or hooks.
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Materials & Environmental Protection－ Down is used in a wide range of products all over the world by athletes, adventurers and ordinary people to keep warm. However, down is not ethical because of its cruelness to the animals and has poor properties when wet. Consider the sustainability of our mother land, down will not be our best choice for this project. We decide to use “PrimaLoft”, which is a synthetic fiber/down developed by the US army. PrimaLoft can keep dry and body temperature even when they get wet. The PrimaLoft ECO is the padding in the jacket and is made out of 70% recycled plastic PET bottles, often used soda bottles. It takes four to six bottles to pad a garment with PrimaLoft.
Other parts of this outfit are also made of 100% polyester fabrics and make it pretty easy to recycle the whole garment in the future.
Bottom－ We got PrimoLoft samples from their company and started to do dyeing experiment with these fibers.
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Details & Sampling－ We never made a down jacket before, so making prototypes are very important for us to adjust size and cutting lines.
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Final Presentation－ This is our final result: a jacket padded with black, grey, white and yellow PrimaLoft in different sections, and grey pants with pockets and padded details at its ankles. The jacket has pockets with neon yellow zippers with reflective bands on the front and the lower arms. One pocket on the left arm is see-through. Yellow vinyl was used for details and accessories such as its belt, which has white locks and goes through loops Brand tag at the back is also made of this yellow vinyl.
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Final Presentation－ Me and my teammates Andrea Djurleand and Malin Brytting, presented our final report to people in University of Borås (the Swedish School of Textiles). The main jacket had already sent to Spacepore Sweden to their CEO Karin Nilsdotter then. This presentation surprised all the teachers, students and employees in University of Borås. Even reported by Swedish News paper on our external presentation. We not only got the highest record but had our design been produced in Sweden in the end.
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FINAL－ The CEO of Spaceport Sweden - Karin Nilsdotter dresses our final sample to attend different Seminars around the world in 2014. This design is produced in Sweden as well. Belief can be passed by design/garments to this world. We can achieve more than we expected.
More Information－ http://first-space-kit.wix.com/first-space-kit
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