Unearthing Asia

THE INAUGURAL ISSUE WIN HOTEL STAYS IN BALI, HK AND MORE!

Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions

Vol 01 Dec/Jan/Feb 2010

Raja Ampat Phuket Puerto Princesa Koh Pha Ngan Bali

Vol 01 - Issue 01 www.unearthingasia.com IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00

New Zealand’s Splashing Lake Taupo + A Guide to Middle Eastern Cuisine + Heeding the Call of Asia in Taiwan + Singapore Stopover + Spotlight on Jakarta + Flashpacking Essentials + A Tropical Affair

contents

Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions

Vol 01 Dec/Jan/Feb 2010

Raja Ampat Phuket Puerto Princesa Koh Pha Ngan Bali

Vol 01 - Issue 01 www.unearthingasia.com IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00

On the cover – the luxurious Rock Bar at AYANA Resort and Spa Bali

THE GUIDE ISLANDS OF SOUTH EAST ASIA 46 Eco Paradise Uncover the eco paradise and scuba-diving Holy Grail of Raja Ampat 58 Beach Life Discover Phuket’s island paradise – quiet, tranquil, and its rowdy side as well

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64 Subterranean Magic Unearth a magical Palawan attraction priming for international limelight 72 Coming of Age Koh Phangan is beautifully morphing in its slow but steady evolution 78 After the Storm Despite the threat of terrorism and overtourism, Bali retains its hidden charms

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96 84 15-26 BUZZWORTHY! Singapore’s Party flavor; the Nikki Beach Club in Thailand; Bali’s hip happenings; Hong Kong’s new dig; and more

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28 DATEBOOK Festivals and events not to be missed 30 SPOTLIGHT Jakarta 24 hour in the Big Durian of South East Asia, with local tips and suggestions 34-41 INSIGHTS Top flashpacking gadgets; a quick Singapore rejuvenation; and more

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84 STYLE GUIDE A Tropical Affair A perfect beachfront rendezvous by the seaside coast of Segarra, Jakarta

www.unearthingasia.com

TRAVEL TALES 91 Arabian Servings A tasty guide to the culinary delights from the region of Middle East 96 Heeding the Call Photographer extraordinaire, Craig Ferguson shard his tales of travel all over the region of Asia 104 Splashing Lake Taupo Jump right into adventure and explore deep into the Kiwi’s stunning landscape at Lake Taupo

EDITOR’S notes

Twenty years from now you’ll be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do, than by the ones you did do – Mark Twain

Much too often, we spend our lives weighing one thing against another. Considering, always thinking. Is this better? Is it too expensive? Too risky? But all too often, we spend too much time contemplating, that we ended up missing the window of opportunity that has just been presented.

The moral of the story here, in line with those wise words from a wise man above, is to open up and surrender yourself to possibilities. True, you may regret it after all, but more often than not, you’ll end up disappointed for not taking up the chance while you’ve still got the opportunity to do so.

It is with that in mind I’d like to introduce Unearthing Asia to you. The travel publication market is one that is crowded and very competitive. However, all too often I ended up frustrated as I browse the various magazines on offer. They are suggesting US$1000 a night luxury hotels, or a US$150 meal of deep fried chicken tender, with a layer of cheese slipped in. Now, I’m sure the suggested hotel boasts plentiful amenities, and the chicken tender heavenly upon my lips. But more often than not, I ended skipping these suggestions for other more cost-effective options.

It is this hole in the travel publication that we aim to service. Our readers are the Generation Y, web-savvy, young and affluent, but budget conscious and looking for good advice. They are independent travelers daring to brave off-the-beaten paths, and heading into new territories blind with excitement. They look for tips and hints from various offline and online medium, from friends and strangers alike, and enjoy every single step of the journey as much as the destination in itself.

We sincerely hope you’ll enjoy this inaugural offering from us. As I look forward to this project finally unfolding, I can’t help but smile and raise a little toast to our team. My simple wish is that five, ten, or even twenty years from now, we’ll look back with fondness, and be glad at our decision to embark upon this amazing journey together.

Nikolas Tjhin Editor-in-Chief

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BEHIND THE SCENES

Commissioners Husein VP Consultant Kicky Alexander Achmad Sobari The AYANA Resort and Spa Bali

Editor in Chief Nikolas Tjhin Singapore Editor Michelle Lee Sales Manager Nadia V Finance Manager Alexander Alvin

The Fairmont Beijing Hotel

Fill out our survey to enjoy a Free 1 Year Subscription* and stand a chance to win free hotel stays!* We are offering free one year subscriptions to residents of Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta.* On top of that, you’ll also be in the running to win free hotel stays at various destinations – Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bali!

Turn to page 42 for more details. * Terms & conditions apply

Contributors Mallika Naguran Scotty Graham Debbie Reyes-Coloma Vannara Putra Char Magalong Natalie Revie Nabeetha Naseer Bona Soetirto Dresscode Magazine Publisher PT Tanindo Multi Media Distributor MarketAsia Pte Ltd Media Representative Media Link Pte Ltd Legal Consultant Dr F. X. Arsin, SH

All rights in this publication and the name are owned and licensed to PT Tanindo Multi Media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the permission of PT Tanindo Multimedia. All rights reserved. All opinions are of the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by PT Tanindo Multi Media, and we accept no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies, or other materials.

For editorial and media enquiries, please contact Nikolas Tjhin PT Tanindo Multi Media VBox 886 Singapore (62) 812 7809 8888 (62) 21 3221 9988 nik@unearthingasia.com

For advertising and marketing enquiries, please contact Dawn Khoo Media Link Pte Ltd 1 Sophia Road #07-22 Singapore 228149 (65) 6336 1725, (65) 6336 6116 medialink@pacific.net.sg

contributors

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01 Mallika Naguran

04 Scoty Graham

Mallika Naguran founded and manages Gaia Discovery, a not-for-profit online publication (www.gaiadiscovery.com), to promote eco travel and living in Asia. Going beyond conservation, Mallika is now focusing on restoring degraded environments and improving the livelihoods of the poor. She also advises businesses to go green by operating in harmony with nature and adopting cost-effective eco inventions.

Scotty Graham is a freelance photographer that has been living and working in Jakarta, Indonesia for the past 15 years. He has been diving for over 25 years, and has logged over 4000 dives through out the world. Underwater photography keeps his interest in diving alive as it is always a challenge, and has a never-ending learning curve. Visit his photo blog at http://www.scottygraham.blogspot.com.

02 Natalie Revvie

Singapore-based Debbie Reyes-Coloma is a freelance feature and lifestyle writer for various publications in the region.

Natalie Revie is a freelance writer, restaurateur and jungle momma. She lives on Koh Pha Ngan Island in southern Thailand where she indulges in her passion for food, culture, travel, and writing, daily.

She believes in letting spirituality emerge through the common, the everyday – this is what makes for truly beautiful writing.

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03 Barrie Lie-Birchall Barrie is a freelance writer who started his nomadic steps at an early age travelling though Europe, Central Asia and the Pacific. His love of Australia saw Barrie hitchhiking around the country and then across the Tasman to New Zealand where he explored the country on a motorbike. But, it was the Indonesian archipelago that mesmerised him and for the last few decades has spent a considerable amount of his time there ever since.

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05 Debbie Reyes-Coloma

06 Bona Soetirto Bona Soetirto is an experienced Freelance Commercial Photographer and Digital Imager for various media in Jakarta, especially fashion photography. Not only that, he is also a photography lecturer at Pelita Harapan University, and works as a Retoucher for Reelsessions, a Los Angeles, California based agency. Recently, he started Continuum, his own center to teach Digital Imaging.

Dresscode Dresscode is the first fashion magazine in Indonesia with the unique concept of “non-article� magazine.

They are fully dedicated to give you inspirations on what to wear, how to wear them, and where to find it!

Grab your copy now in various locations in Indonesia, especially in major bookstores in Jakarta, such as Gramedia, TGA and Kinokuniya outlets.

Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions

THE INAUGURAL ISSUE WIN HOTEL STAYS IN BALI, HK AND MORE!

Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions

Vol 01 Dec/Jan/Feb 2010

Raja Ampat Phuket Puerto Princesa Koh Pha Ngan Bali

Vol 01 - Issue 01 www.unearthingasia.com IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00

New Zealand’s Splashing Lake Taupo + A Guide to Middle Eastern Cuisine + Heeding the Call of Asia in Taiwan + Singapore Stopover + Spotlight on Jakarta + Flashpacking Essentials + A Tropical Affair

Unearthing Asia The latest addition to your list of essential reading, Unearthing Asia is a magazine dedicated to inspiring its readers to explore this beautiful region we call home. The magazine is an indispensable guide to Asia, featuring exciting adventures, stunning sceneries and unique attractions from all over the region.

For this inaugural issue, we are generously offering our readers free one year subscriptions. And not only that, subscribers also stand a chance to win free hotel stays at various destinations – Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bali! Turn to page 42 for more details.

buzzworthy!

what’s HAPPENING AROUND THE REGION

HOTEL UNDERWATER LUXURY To coincide with its Culture Capital of Europe nomination, Turkey is set to unveil a 7-floor underwater hotel in 2010. This 7-star hotel will give its guests a new view of the famous city of Istanbul, from right below its city center. It is being built on the ruins of a historical 1930s tobacco factory and will house restaurants, exhibition halls, and rooms all with underwater view. Local experts suggest the underwater visibility of the Bosphorus Strait is at an estimated 10-feet (approximately 3.5 meters), so visitors can expect an amazing experience like nothing on earth! NT.

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buzzworthy!

EVENT F1 EXTRAVAGANZA Once again, the nightsky of Singapore provides the glits and glam in an exciting Singapore GP F1 event that is fast becoming a highlight of the year for race, travel and party enthusiasts. For three days, this was Party town, with international acts like the Black-Eye Peas to Backstreet Boys to Beyonce all wowing the crowds at various venues around the circuit.

This year, despite the global economic crisis, fans still flocked to the Marina Bay circuit to see Lewis Hamilton take the crown in an exciting race with Timo Glock and Fernando Alonso taking up the remaining podium finishes. Many were here to witness first hand what the fervor of F1 was all about, and they were definitely not dissappointed by the show on offer. ML.

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buzzworthy!

One Bed Room Pool Villa Komaneka at Bisma © Komaneka

VILLA HILLSIDE VIEW Another sister hotel of Komaneka (www.komaneka.com) is open at Jalan Bisma-Ubud. Nestled upon the hillsides by the Campuhan River valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice fields and the coconut groves in the surrounding, this luxurious resort is designed as a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle destination.

With 34 spacious suites and 10 elegant villas, each with its 12 meter long private pool and terrace, guests are invited to savor the tranquility and breathtaking beauty of Ubud. The resort’s on-site facilities include an Indonesian fine dining restaurant, half Olympic sized swimming pool, circular wading pool, bar, spavilla, gym, 1.2 mile jogging track under canopy of trees, function rooms and Wanasmara wedding Chapel. Ayu Asti.

Main pool Komaneka at Bisma © Agus Pande

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buzzworthy!

GUIDE MIELE TIME Following its inaugural 2008/2009 issue, the second edition of The Miele Guide will be bigger and better, says Pauline Ooi, Associate Publisher of the little red book. In addition to ranking the region’s top restaurants, the 2009/2010 issue will feature a host of additional information, from the top five restaurants in each country to an overview of each featured country’s dining scene. The guide will feature 400 restaurants across Asia, 80 more than the previous edition, and broaden the perspective by evaluating two more countries, Mongolia and Nepal. ML.

CHEF NEW TALENT There’s a new face in town at the Padma Resort Bali. The acclaimed 5-star art sanctuary welcomes its new Executive Sous Chef, Raul Deschu, hailing from Romania. The talented chef has gained much experience while working in Germany, Malaysia, Dubai, Austria and Thailand, and will ensure additional varieties in Padma Resort’s Food and Beverage Outlets and Programmes. NT.

BOUTIQUE ROYAL PALACE The Bhuthorn is the result of four years of renovation that sees the heritage-listed building transformed into an elegant three guestroom boutique hotel with intricate attention to details. Situated in the privileged location of Bangkok’s historic district, there are numerous attractions worth visiting just a walking distance away – the Khao San Road are minutes away, as well as the Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha. The area is full of delicious authentic Thai food, a perfect spot in the heart of the preserved old town Bangkok. KA.

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buzzworthy!

EVENT TWINS EFFECT A special collaborative art exhibition opened to great fanfare in the Gaya Gallery, which ran through 6th to 30th October. The exhibit was the production of Ida Bagus Indra, one of Bali’s great artists, with John O’Sullivan, hotelier, wordsmith and artist in his own right. The exhibition has definitely raised the artistic bar with the fresh approach to collaborative mixed-medium works produced by these two fine personalities. KA.

SPA FACELIFT REJUVENATION A new facial treatment that addresses the issues of aging and rejuvenation are now available at the Mandarin Spa in Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. The 45 minute session incorporates a consultation with acupuncture therapy specifically targeting wrinkles while providing numerous other benefits.

The theory behind facial acupuncture is based on the ancient concept that the body’s energy diminishes with age. During the treatment, tiny, hair-fine acupuncture needles intended to stimulate the flow of qi throughout pathways in the body are inserted at specific points on the face. This boosts circulation, increases collagen and plumps fine facial wrinkles. NT.

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buzzworthy!

EVENT JEWEL FEST This year’s visitors to the annual Singapore JewelFest were treated to a stunning custom-built Jewel Pavilion, which provided the perfect setting for the two opening shows to kick-start the week-long festivities.

The two-part showcase, themed “Love of Romance” and “Love in All its Glory”, showcased jeweleries worth over S$120 million created by 25 jewelers especially for the event. NT.

RESORT LUSH LUXURY The eagerly awaited Amantaka Resort is ready to grace the lush green fields of Luang Prabang. This luxe resort from Adrian Zecha and his team is set to take it up a notch with refined decor, lofty spaces, verandas, pools and tantalizing spa treatments, on top of the pristine environments and beautiful temples in the vicinity. The resort also has a yoga studio, tennis courts, a library and an art gallery. ML.

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RESORT BEACH PARTY Nikki Beach, one of the world’s most recognizable luxury lifestyle and entertainment brands, has chosen the idyllic island of Koh Samui in Thailand to launch their latest opening, a spectacular new Nikki Beach Club.

Discover quintessential luxury at Nikki Beach’s remote Beach Club Bungalow Resort, located on the west side of Thailand’s most exotic and exclusive island. Expertly designed for ultimate relaxation complimented by a sophisticated ambiance, Nikki Beach Koh Samui brings the vibrant nightlife of Miami to the shores of Lipa Noi Beach.

Tania Berg.

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buzzworthy!

Marco Calvani & Kicky Alexander

Janet De Neefe

Wole Soyinka, Nobel Prize Winner in Literature

EVENT UBUD FESTIVAL From 7 to 11 October, the 2009 Ubud Writers & Readers Festival took place in Ubud, Bali, with the theme of SukaDuka: Compassion & Solidarity. The theme reflected the Festival’s commitment to turn this literary gathering into an inspiring moment, through which writers and readers from every corner of the world can establish a mutual understanding and come together.

Amir Muhammad

Wena Poon

Julia Leigh

The festival was a 4-day event of panel sessions, debates, readings and in-conversations with the world’s greatest exponents of their craft. A host of literary stars made their appearance in the festival, such as – Wole Soyinka, the first African to receive a Nobel Prize for literature; Fatima Bhutto, the outspoken poet, journalist and novelist from Pakistan; as well as Lloyd Jones, Mohammed Hanif, Tom Cho, Seno Gumira Ajidarma, Wena Poon, Woon Tai Ho, Dede Oetomo, Asitha Ameresekere, and many others.

The festival also featured a program packed full of performances, play readings, music and song, film, humour and, of course, food. KA.

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buzzworthy!

Jajang C Noer

Didi Petet and Jajang C Noer

EVENT BALINALE ROCKS A 6-day film festival showcasing 25 films from 13 countries by both international and Indonesian film-makers with the sole purpose of promoting Bali to filmmakers and artists were held recently in Bali. Aptly called the Balinale, the festival also offered free workshops for aspiring young filmmakers. The luxurious Rock Bar at AYANA Resort and Spa Bali played host to the closing awards party, in which visitors were treated to original performances by Ahtron McCanne and Richie Perrot, as well as a truly spectacular Bali sunset in the backdrop. NT.

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buzzworthy!

BOUTIQUE SLEEK DESIGN A swanky new hotel just hit the town with a modern and chic feel, emphasizing sleek design and creative innovation.

The Harbour Plaza 8 Degrees (www.harbour-plaza.com/hp8d) in Hong Kong boasts a unique lobby designed

by HK-based Patrick Leung of PAL Design, featuring optical illusions and an environment that feels like you’re inside the Leaning Tower of Pisa.

The electric hotel features 702 charming guestrooms and suites right in the heart of old town Hong Kong, giving visitors a unique blend of old and new. NT.

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DATEBOOK

festivals and events not to be missed

International Yoga Festival For 10 days at the beginning of Spring, Rishikesh, the yoga capital of the world, attracts hundreds of yogi masters from all over the globe. They congregate on the banks of the Ganges to explore anything and everything about transcendental meditation.

February 28 to March 10, 2010

Goa Carnival The famed hippie paradise begins the year with a food-fight carnival event in the lead-up to Lent. You’ll see oranges, flour and even kitchen utensils thrown about in good fun. Witness the festival’s appointed ruler starting the party with a Mardi Gras-inspired procession through the streets of Goa’s capital.

February 13 to 16, 2010

Kushimoto Fire Festival At the beginning of the year, the residents of Kushimoto perform a ritual burning of the grassy land in front of the Shino Misaki Watchtower. Are you brave enough to join in walking through the fire?

January 2010

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Taiwan Hot Springs and Fine Cuisine Carnival Taiwan’s hot springs culture dates back over a century. During the Carnival, resorts across the island offer special activities and hot spring packages for visitors to enjoy a restorative soak paired with healthy cuisine.

October 2009 - January 2010 www.taiwanhotspring.net

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Ardh Kumbh Mela Held just once every three years, this mass Hindu pilgrimage towards the holy city of Haridwar is the world’s largest gathering of yogis, sadhus, pilgrims and devotees. Over 70 million believers will seek enlightenment through a ritual of bath at the Ganges. Those looking for a spiritual journey should consider following suit, or you can simply stand aside and enjoy the spectacle or take part in the various riverside processions that are ongoing throughout the event.

April 14, 2010

Waipara Valley Wine and Food Festival Head down to Christchurch, New Zealand, for the biggest food and wine festival in the Waipara Valley Wine region. Enjoy a day of fiesta with an array of gourmet treats, superb music and excellent wines from all over 16 countries.

06 March 2010 www.waiparawine.co.nz

Greytown Arts Festival Held on Wellingon Anniversary weekend, the Greytown Arts’ Festival will comprise visual, performing and literary arts. Don’t miss out on the host of activities in the newly redesigned Town Centre, and check out the visual art on display while you are there.

23 January - 25 January 2010

Tokyo Sumo Tournament Japan’s national sport is one that is rich with history, culture and even religious background rituals which are still followed today. Don’t miss out on their six tournaments throughout the year, with the very first held in Tokyo at the beginning of the year.

The World of Ancient Egypt Featuring over 230 Egyptian objects and major works from 4500 BCE to 1st century BCE, this highly anticipated exhibition is set to grace the National Museum of Singapore from December through to April. The artefacts highlight changing Egyptian funerary customs, political intrigues, and the extraordinary skills of artists and craftsmen of the day.

Their use of a variety of materials reveal geographical surroundings of workshops and artistic fashions of the period.

January 2010

22 December 2009 - 4 April 2010

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The Big Durian Jakarta Like its fruit namesake, the Big Durian of Indonesia is often a shock to first-time travelers. It’s a heaving mass of some 10 million people packed into a vast urban sprawl that is one of Asia’s most exciting and liveliest cities.

There is plenty to do here, from shopping at the many luxurious shopping centers to one of the hippest nightlife scenes in Southeast Asia. Here’s a full day itinerary in Jakarta, followed by tips from locals who call it home.

The newly renovated Hotel Indonesia

08:00AM Wake up to a metropolitan view of the city in the newly remodeled Hotel Indonesia Kempinski Jakarta. With interiors inspired by contemporary Indonesian art and style and located in Jakarta’s city center, the iconic hotel is the ideal place for business, shopping and extravagance.

TeSaTe’s delicious local servings

Gado-gado, Indonesian Salad

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10:00AM

01:00PM

Start your sightseeing by visiting the Salihara Community Complex in South Jakarta, an expansive 3000 square meters of land that plays host to a theater, a gallery and an office building plus guest house. The gallery is an empty space with circular walls, without angles nor borders, providing a wider perspective to the various contemporary arts on display.

For lunch, head to the Senayan area to enjoy authentic Indonesian food at TeSaTe, a new concept restaurant that not only promotes the richness of local culinary, but highlights the unique Indonesian culture and celebration.

Try out authentic local favorites served in luxurious gourmet settings such as the humble satay, nasi goreng (fried rice) or sop buntut (oxtail soup).

Senayan City, right across from Plaza Senayan

SPOTLIGHT jakarta

02:30PM

05:30PM

09:00PM

With your stomach and taste-bud fulfilled, head to the Senayan area for some upscale shopping at Plaza Senayan, where luxury brands such as BVLGARI and Louis Vuitton reside alongside local favorites like Sebastian’s and Biyan. Right opposite, the newer Senayan City is also worth exploring, offering 8 floors of shopping, food and entertainment.

After a day of activities, head to the Spa at Four Seasons Hotel to relax, refresh and rejuvenate. Book yourself a much deserved hour of Javanese massage, with techniques of skin rolling, long kneading strokes and acupressure to strengthen the body for the night ahead.

Kemang is also host to an array of cafes, bars and pubs serving all kinds of drinks to suit all tastes. For a relaxing, ambient mood, head to Casa Cafe for drinks and desserts. Located right above the trendy Aksara Bookstore, the cafe is a breath of fresh air offering beers, wines by the glass and delectable cocktails.

Coffee lovers would prefer Tornado Coffee or Merdeka Coffee, where the lure of strong caffeine draws you in.

07:00PM The night starts with a feast at Kemang, Jakarta’s glamorous kampong neighborhood that is popular with locals and expats alike. Try out the delectable Javanese specialties at Payon, where traditional touches like the clay floor tiles and swatches of batik give it a unique appearance compared to Kemang’s usually minimalist urban interior. Or you can opt to dine with a view at Shy, sited atop the 4th level at The Papillion. The restaurant’s Dutch chef presents daily seven and four course menus, in addition to their host of expert European fusion cuisine.

11:00PM Finally, finish your day partying it up at Blowfish Kitchen & Bar at Wisma Mulia, one of the most happening nightspot in town. Coupled with nearby Puro, an Italian lounge and resto, Blowfish is a luxury high-end dining during the afternoon that turns into an all-out clubbing scene at night.

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SPOTLIGHT jakarta A Middle Eastern ambiance at Anatolia, Kemang

Local Tips

Jagorawi Golf Club

Hotel Grand Hyatt

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Like many other citizens of Jakarta, Scotty and Tika complained bitterly about the bad traffic, especially on the weekends. As such, they rarely ventured too far away from home in South Jakarta, but do enjoy the occasional excursions to one of the local golf courses – Jagorawi, Rainbow Hills and Gunung Geulis are a few of their favorite courses. For food, their go-to places are Peppenero (formerly known as the Tratoria) for some excellent Italian food and the Tamat Thai (in Kemang) for some spicy, value for money Thai food.

Also in Kemang, Anatolia is a place they reserve for special occasions – “they serve expensive, but authentic Turkish food – delicious and a great atmosphere!”

Over on the other side, towards the North, Yansen also opts to avoid the traffic and heads closer to home for food and relaxation. He recommended Segarra, off the coast of Ancol, for a “relaxing, beach-side ambience,” and Glasshouse in Muara Karang for that favorite past time of boys – catching the big match. He also shared about Dermaga, a boisterous sea-side cafe where you can enjoy a hot and spicy offering – Bakmi Sakaw – “we Indonesians love spicy food!” he noted enthusiastically.

For those who enjoys live music, the Fountain Cafe at Hotel Grand Hyatt comes heavily recommended by Sandy, who enthused “I love their live band, its also very conveniently located and very comfortable, a great place to chill-out and de-stress.”

INSIGHTS gadgets

Flashpacking Essentials The simple definition of flashpacking can be defined as backpacking with flash, or style, usually associated with tech-savvy adventurers who prefer to travel independently. It’s a trend that aptly paints our digital culture – we are no longer able to travel without all the luxuries of technology. For the budding flashpackers, here are the top six essential gadgets you will need to gear up and stay connected.

iGo Charger The iGo universal chargers can power thousands of devices with its patented tip technology. Charge your devices wherever you want - at home, in the car, or even on the plane.

US$49.99, www.igo.com

Novatel MiFi Not all countries you travel to will have a strong, stable wireless network to keep you connected.

The Novatel MiFi creates your very own network of broadband connectivity wherever you are. www.novatelwireless.com

MacBook Air Every flashpacker needs a good portable laptop to lug around between countries, road trips and plane flights. Enter the MacBook Air, the ultimate in portability, performance and design. With a 1.6 GHz or 1.8 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo processor powering it up, you’ll be amazed at how so much power can be packed into such a thin design.

From US$1499, www.apple.com

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Canon PowerShot SX10 IS The Canon PowerShot SX10 IS gives you a lot of a camera and a very useful 20x optical zoom in a body that’s still reasonably compact. It is much better than your average point and shoot, yet much lighter than a bulky Digital SLR. From US$399, www.canon.com

Flip MinoHD

Apple iPhone 3GS

The FlipMinoHD is an evolution of the original Flip Mino camcorder, which packs a powerful machine able to record up to 720p resolution with a full 4GB internal memory into a sleeker, smaller model.

From US$229, www.theflip.com

The ultimate must-have gadget for traveling flashpackers, the Apple iPhone 3GS combines more functionality, fun, flair and overall usefulness into a single package like nothing else. Powered up by the billion or so applications available for download, it allows complete customization and flexibility. It’s not only a phone, but also a compass, a GPS map, a currency converter and so much more!

From US$199, www.apple.com

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INSIGHTS HEALTH

Singapore Stopover For those looking for a quick break in between their long-distance flights, Singapore is the preferred pitstop to replenish and rejuvenate. Renowned Dr K K Chew’s NU•U Aesthetics & Wellness at Paragon is the place to go for a quick aesthetic fix, with the latest in face and body treatments that focuses on total rejuvenation. The clinic offers a relaxing ambience that is sure to leave you refreshed and raring to go!

Laser Face Lift With today’s technology, the process of correcting skinrelated facial imperfections can take place as easily as digitally enhancing a picture on the computer screen. AccuLiftTM by AccuSculptTM makes use of a revolutionary powerful 1,444nmwavelength laser to correct imperfections on the skin quickly and safely. It is a minimally invasive procedure that requires only local anaesthesia. Capable of removing excess fat deposits that have migrated downwards due to gravity, it also tightens skin and minimises the need for filler injections.

“Laser facelifts aren’t entirely new,” explains Dr Chew, “but what’s different with AccuLiftTM is the use of the 1,444nm laser. Compared to the 1,064nm and 1,320nm ones that we used in the past, this new wavelength dissipates less heat.” Dr Chew is one of the few aesthetic doctors who has been awarded the rights to administer this procedure in Asia. With its effective and safe results, AccuLiftTM is a good alternative to procedures such as Thermage, RF treatment and liquid facelift.

“AccuLiftTM works especially effectively to visibly eliminate facial problems, for instance, saggy jowls, eyebags, double chins, and deep wrinkles along the laugh lines. The good thing about this treatment is that it delivers excellent results, with virtually no complications, and requires a shorter operation time.” explains Dr Chew. The procedure is quick – a total of 30 to 45 minutes for a minor problem area – and you can generally expect to return to your normal routine in two days, which makes it perfect as an over-the-weekend treatment.

NU•U Aesthetics & Wellness Clinic is located at 290 Orchard Road #09-18/19, Paragon Medical Suites.

To book an appointment, call them at (65) 6732 9989 or through email at doctor@nuuclinic.com

Lounging in Transit Business travelers are often stuck in the airport in-between transits a lot more often than others.

Add into that the occassional delays and holdups that stretches your waiting time – time that can be substantial. If only you can get work done, or truly rest and relax, or better yet – work out a much needed sweat and get the adrenaline pumping. At the Plaza Premium Lounge, you can do all that and much more.

The Plaza Premium Lounge is the world’s first commercial VIP lounge open to airport users from all walks of life. Headquartered in Hong Kong, they have now opened more than 30 locations in 11 international airports – Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hyderabad, New Delhi, Muscat, Vancouver and Toronto. Situated in both Arrival and Departure Levels of the international airports, the Plaza Premium Lounge aims to provide the greatest convenience to all kinds of travelers.

Plaza Premium Lounges feature cushy seatings, television, music, beverages, light snacks or a wholesome buffet spread. Wi-Fi, business services and attentive staff ups the ante in services and hospitality, giving travelers a sanctuary beyond the airport crowds, a welcome haven between flights, or an office away from home.

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INSIGHTS business

Singapore Plaza Premium Lounge in Singapore Changi Airport centers around a modern lifestyle and relaxation concept, with a Zen inspired decor adjacent to an outdoor sunflower garden. Open 24 hours daily to all travelers, it features shower with amenities, massages, fitness lifestyle lounge and offer services such as oxygen therapy, napping beds and foot reflexology, to mention a few. Lounge use is available @ S$30 + 7% GST per adult. This rate includes shower with amenities, free flow of snacks and salad bar, non-alcoholic beverages, internet & email access & free local telephone calls.

Malaysia The Plaza Premium Lounge runs 3 lounges in Malaysia. They are situated at the Kuala Lumpur International Airport, Low Cost Carrier Terminal (LCCT) and Sultan Ismail International Airport (Senai, Johor). Even as an economy passenger you can enjoy the luxury of a business class passenger. For RM88 per person, you can enjoy the facilities for the whole of 2 hours, which includes high-speed internet workstations, a variety of food and beverages, free flow of beer, shower amenities, golf putting, VIP meet and greet, business centre and a wide selection of movies and international publications. the islands of south east asia

39

INSIGHTS recipe

Greek Connection

40

This traditional Greek favorite may look complex and sophisticated, but don’t let that fool you! Follow this easy-todo instructions for a refreshing taste of Greece right on your kitchen floors.

INGREDIENTS 1 (16 ounce) package phyllo dough 1 pound chopped nuts 1 cup butter 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 cup water 1 cup white sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 cup honey

The Fairmont Beijing Hotel

DIRECTIONS 1. Preheat the oven to 175 degrees C and butter the bottoms and sides of a pan.

2. Chop nuts and toss with cinnamon. Set the toppings aside.

Unroll phyllo dough and cut whole stack in half to fit pan. You also want to cover the phyllo dough with a dampened cloth to keep it from drying out as you work.

3. Place two sheets of phyllo dough in the pan and butter them up thoroughly. Repeat this until you have 8 sheets of dough all layered up.

4. Sprinkle 2 - 3 tablespoons of nut mixture on top. Add into that two sheets of dough, butter, nuts, layering them on top of each other as you go. The topmost layer should be about 6 - 8 sheets deep.

5. Using a sharp knife cut into diamond or square shapes all the way to the bottom of the pan. You may want cut into 4 long rows the make diagonal cuts. Bake this for about 50 minutes until baklava is golden and crisp.

6. Make sauce while baklava is baking. Boil sugar and water until sugar is melted. Add vanilla and honey. Simmer for about 20 minutes.

7. Remove baklava from oven and immediately spoon sauce over it. Let cool, and serve in cupcake papers for immediate refreshement!

8. This recipe freezes well, but if you do so, remember to leave it uncovered as it gets soggy if it is wrapped up.

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46 Eco Paradise Uncover the eco paradise and scuba-diving Holy Grail of Raja Ampat 58 Beach Life Discover Phuket’s island paradise – quiet, tranquil, and its rowdy side as well 64 Subterranean Magic Unearth a magical Palawan attraction priming for international limelight 72 Coming of Age Koh Pha Ngan is beautifully morphing in its slow but steady evolution 78 After the Storm Despite the threat of terrorism and overtourism, Bali retains its hidden charms

The setting sun at Raja Ampat’s Kri Eco Resort sets the tone for an afternoon of relaxation. Isolated and untouched, the raw natural beauty will strike you like no other destinations could.

Deep in

the hearts of

Papua, lies the Holy Grail

of scuba diving, Mallika Naguran uncovers the blossoming jewel

of Raja Ampat

and its eco conservation efforts.

With photos by Scotty Graham.

the guide

Being eco can mean a number of things to different people; the first thing that springs to mind for most is the preservation of nature. For Max Ammer, a pioneer dive operator in Raja Ampat and owner of Kri Eco Resort and Sorido Bay Resort at Papua, Indonesia, people are at the heart of any ecology-related business.

“Eco to me means working with the local people to build a better future,” he tells over dinner. A gecko emerges from

behind the ketchup bottles, approaching us cautiously on the wooden table. I wonder if I should remove my hand that’s resting in its path – I do love animals, but I don’t fancy my body becoming part of their habitat.

Max extends his hand out to the gecko to crawl on. “You know when I built this place 15 years ago, I didn’t have to specially rear these wild things. They just appeared – we have monitor lizards, ducks and birds just roaming around.”

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47

the guide

At the Kri Eco Resort, you don’t have to go far to enjoy abundant marine life. Right below the pier itself are thousands of fishes swimming freely.

the guide

Green Resort Every night, following dinner, the guests gaze at the juvenile bamboo sharks wading in the shallows just below the dining lounge on stilts. In the morning, we are awakened by hysterical cackles from endemic birds such as eclectis parrots, brush turkeys, sulphur crested cockatoos and hornbills. No need for alarm clocks here.

The guest rooms at Kri Eco Resort are also perched above the waters, so a daily sight would be numerous fish species flitting around the pylons, seeking shelter from sea currents or storms. Baby barracudas pursue parrotfish of amazing varieties, tagged along by turtles.

At breakfast, we were startled to see a pair of coconut crabs huddled around a bamboo pylon at the lounge ceiling.

Hideous looking as they are, they are also harmless and rather immobile; apparently they lie on coconut trees and love cracking the solid nuts with their rock-hard pincers. I sat a respectable distance away from them.

Little of the coral reefs at Cape Kri (house reef) was destroyed with the building of Kri Eco Resort, including the jetty that Max’s father helped to build, aided by local talent and muscle.

One such talent couldn’t measure straight, resulting in the construction of a not so perfect wooden platform that scuba divers walk on to get to the dive equipment center at the end of the jetty and to hop on to the dive boats.

Everything about Kri Eco Resort is handmade: the Sunset Lounge and its lazy deck chairs, the bamboo chalets, the coconut leaf and nut wall finishing and décor. Even the bricks are made by hand by the senior folks, whom Max employs, with the job title of “All Rounders”.

“I want local people to make the money,” says Max, whom revealed that he could have built the resorts (including the higher-end Sorido Resort) and run the operations quicker with more experienced staff from other parts of Indonesia. In fact, the dive crew are all Papuans, a number of them barely made it through school.

But Max is committed to Raja Ampat’s people in more ways that one, and its not always for business. He builds local talent and skills in this remote region of Indonesia spanning from tourism-related ventures to trades for livelihood to careers in scuba diving.

the islands of south east asia

49

An amazing array of marine bio-diversity awaits you.

These are the stuff of legends, but sadly, one that will not last forever.

the guide

In two single dives, a renowned marine scientist recorded 283 and 281 fish species. A benchmark for an excellent fish count is 200.

the guide

A consultant with Conservation International (CI), Dr Allen canvassed for Papua to be considered in the organisation’s conservation programme, and after three years, in 2001, it happened. Plans for a marine park were drawn; by mid-2007, the Raja Ampat Marine Park was formally declared.

When I visited Kri Eco Resort in March 2009, I found out that the zonation and management plans were still under development. However, an important regulatory mechanism had already kicked in: the Raja Ampat Tourism Entrance Fee of Rp500,000 that involves the issue of an annual waterproof plastic entrance tag.

Conservation The pristine reefs of Raja Ampat and the plentiful marine species were under threat with destructive fishing practices such as bomb fishing and deep-sea trawlers. The big fish started to dwindle.

Logging and mining on the islands impacted the waters with pollution.

Max knew he had to do something to stop the destruction and pollution. Raja Ampat needed protection, or better, conservation, or risk losing its intrinsic beauty and biodiversity. It was a stroke of luck when Dr Gerald Allen, renowned marine scientist and author, ventured into this path. Dr Allen was impressed with the numerous species of freshwater fishes found here, and the pristine state of corals. In two single dives, he recorded the highest count of fish species: 283 species at at Cape Kri and 281 at South Fam group. A benchmark for an excellent fish count is 200.

Part of the fee goes to community development, conservation and enforcement, covering marine areas and land-based activities such as logging and mining. In 2007 and 2008, priority was given to the “Posyandu” system, which is a healthcare provision for mothers and children. Something that’s also close to Max’ heart: in the early days, he had improved the water wells in Raja Ampat with chlorination and safety measures and created 13 new wells for the people.

Conservation at Raja Ampat now is taking on new heights with an aerial monitoring programme sponsored by CI and other NGOs. This involves a light aircraft surveillance to keep an eye on illegal activities on water and land. And the pilot keeping vigil behind the wheels is no other than Max Ammer himself.

the islands of south east asia

53

the guide

Don’t expect to see a Western dive guide or master at Papua Diving, because there isn’t one. Max believes in investing in local education and training local Papuans, a road he has taken that is often long and bumpy.

released them.

Nikson couldn’t understand this white man’s actions, but soon learnt the beauty and fragility of marine life.

People Welfare and Development Nikson Soor born in Batanta, Raja Ampat, is just one example of how a Papuan is groomed to become an asset in Raja Ampat tourism industry. This amiable and energetic Papuan dive master is a manager at Papua Diving with over 11,000 dives logged.

Nikson tells me that he first met Max when he was a wee boy, selling turtles that he had just caught with his fisherman father. Max bought those turtles from him and promptly

“He just put a tank on me and took me down,” grins Nikson, who added, “and my eyes opened wide looking at the underwater life.” Nikson, who was just 14 then, was instantly converted.

It is the start of a long and deep friendship between the two; Nickson who is 34 years old, and Max, 47.

Today, Nikson is not just a top dive guide sought after in Raja Ampat, he is also an environment advocate, concerned with pollution and illegal fishing. “I will teach Nikson how to fly even,” laughed Max, who is eager to begin the aerial surveillance.

“They are good people and I want them to learn a new trade and to earn some income,” he said, hoping to get them out of the poverty cycle. Dive guides at Papua Diving are given proper employment contracts. They are also paid fair wages, provided with food and shelter, and given weekly day off plus regular vacation.

Sustainable Clam Trade Max intends to implement various new ideas. One such plan is to introduce a clam farm. Papuans will learn how to grow clams and sell them in a sustainable fashion, and will soon learn to leave the giant clams in dive sites alone.

Other plans afoot are homestays and kayaking adventures around the exotic mushroom islands. This augments what he has already established with the locals – bird watching tours in particular the Red Bird of Paradise. Proceeds go entirely to the villagers, who then see the value of this tourism activity and stop them from catching these birds and selling them overseas as exotic pets.

A trip to Max Ammer’s resorts is worth every dime. If you plan a trip in 2010, you may just enjoy his other service, a live aboard dive boat, one which he hopes to start designing soon - and by himself of course.

the islands of south east asia

55

The colorful corals is host to an abundance of fishes.

A true joy to behold. It’s no wonder how so many diving enthusiasts gushes at the mere mention of Raja Ampat.

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Vannara Putra uncovers Phuket’s island paradise –

quiet and tranquil, and unwittingly discovered

its rowdy side as well

the guide

To our right, the beach beckons – pristine white sand upon long tresses of crystal clear water. The perfect afternoon sun combined with fresh coconuts and Thailand’s scrumptious delicacies makes it a tantalizing option as we ponder our next plan. To our left, rows upon rows of stalls take up shelter by the road side, vending fake Rolexes and cheap tee-shirts for the shopaholic travelers.

Further down the road the alleyway widens and a carnival of sort entices tourists with welcoming arms. Bars, pubs and massage parlors lined up both sides of the road, with catcalls and whistles firing out from all around the place. In the middle of the road, there is a fashion catwalk with various ladies (or not) costumed up with long colorful feathers and glittering fake diamonds adorning their dresses. It’s not even past dinner time yet, but in Phuket, the party never really stops, even after the devastating 2004 tsunami.

Amongst Phuket’s various beaches, Patong Beach is the most developed, most vibrant, and most visited one.

It’s a picture perfect postcard view of a 3-kilometer long white sandy beach perfect for swimming, lazing, and enjoying challenging water sports such as jet skiing, windsurfing, snorkeling, and parasailing. Various diving and snorkeling spots are scattered throughout numerous small islands around the area, easily accessible by boat. From Phuket, there are also various adventure trips heading inland for jungle trekking, mountain climbing or white-water rafting. For me however, these are all secondary. Much like Leonardo DiCaprio’s character in that aptly named 2000 movie, The Beach, I came here to experience a slice of the famed island paradise – the Phi Phi Islands.

the islands of south east asia

59

Phuket Island, of the southern coast of Thailand, offers spectacular scenery, stunning tropical sunsets and warm blue sea. Understandably, it is one of Asia’s most popular beach destinations.

the guide

The Island Paradise The journey to Phi Phi Islands was suspiciously easy to arrange. Numerous stalls on Phuket’s crowded street offered day-tours to tourists. Being the untrusting travelers that we were, we negotiated for a small down-payment for our tour arrangement, with full-payment given only when we were picked up from the hotel. I suppose we shouldn’t have worried – close to 98% of Phuket’s population depends upon tourism to make a living, and as such they are always eager to make a good impression.

The Phi Phi Islands comprises six islands surrounded by the Andaman sea, 2 of them main – Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh. Phi Phi Don, the largest of the six, is the only island with permanent inhabitants, but Phi Phi Leh’s beach is very popular with the tourists as well. It was there on the serene Maya Bay in Phi Phi Leh that the movie was shot, and while my boat entry towards the beach was much less anti-climatic compared to DiCaprio’s jump over a ten-meter waterfall, it was still every bit as astonishing.

As our boat neared the bay, the crew noticeably turned down the machine, not wanting to disturb the fragile ecosystem below the sea. Tall breathtaking cliffs forms a circular wall around the area, and my eyes searched around trying to find an entrance. Suddenly, the green jungle opened up, paving a pathway of transparent sea to a small tranquil beach. Crystal clear water gives view to the coral beds which are home to a wide range of sea life. Our boat anchored a little distance away from the beach, and we were free to swim and snorkel around the boat. The journey there was over an hour long, but very well worth the trip.

From the pristine Maya Bay, we then made our way slowly passing the soaring limestone walls surrounding Phi Phi Leh. The island’s shallow blue-green lagoons and coral gardens, with caves and passages dotting the tall cliffs, made for a spectacular scenery. We snorkeled a little more before finally making our way towards one of Phi Phi Don’s numerous resorts for a hearty meal.

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61

the guide This spread, clockwise from right Island hopping is a popular activity; Stunning views from the top of Phuket; The jetty; Hundreds of stalls offer tourists fake branded goods

Nightlife at the Beach Later on at night, we made our way through the jungle of shops cramping the coastal side of Patong beach.

Compared to the tranquil beach of Phi Phi Islands, it made for an extreme contradiction. A coalescence of noisy pandemonium boomed in my ears as I made my way through the street, be it vendors selling various cheap imitations, tuk-tuk drivers offering rides, and numerous tailors touting cheap custommade suits. There were also the noisy advertising of various muay-thai boxing matches calling out to impressionable travelers.

Those out to shop would be well advised to know that these are simply cheap thrills. There are indeed shops selling higher-quality fakes and the likes, but those are far and few between.

Indeed, my Puma boots were a wreck only after a few sessions of soccer, and a friend’s Rolex didn’t last though the end of the month. You are still able however, to find unique handcrafted items and some amazing paintings.

Haggling is a must, and you should always start by offering half of the original starting price.

62

On Wednesday nights, Thailand’s famed lady-boys come out to play. Every bit as beautiful as they were rumored to be, they came out dressed in long glittering gowns with over-the top cabaret shows make-up, parading and enticing various tourists who are eager to take photos and chat with them. Beware that tips would be expected of these miscellaneous services, a small one will suffice. They are also keen to promote their one-of-a-kind Thai Girl show, which features various acrobatic acts performed by the ladies and lady-boys.

Be warned as well that these lady-boys are every bit as beautiful as they were rumored to be.

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If one were to choose a word to describe Patong beach’s street side revelries, that word would invariably be “rowdy”. If you are looking for a romantic place to dine and wine, or a relaxing lounge to chill and rest, then this isn’t the right place for you. Instead, what you would find here is a good mix of tourists and locals who are out to have a good time, drink and be merry.

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63

the guide

At the center of Palawan, Char Magalong unearthed

a magical attraction

priming for international

limelight and renown

Few places in the Philippines, indeed in all of Southeast Asia, can compare with the beauty of Palawan. Throughout the years, its pristine islands and sandy beaches has tantalized the minds of many, and few are able to resist its charm. Puerto Princesa – its capital – serves as a center for tourism and trade, with most tourists using it as a stop over before heading to the various reefs of corals and coves around Palawan.

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park boasts a thriving wildlife and a full sea to forest ecosystem, offering visitors a wide array of activities and attractions All images used on this editorial feature were kindly provided by the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park

As I made my way into the hotel, I flashed a smile at a group of tourists passing by. I could smell the ocean salt in the air, a sure sign of the various beach activities they must have participated in – swimming at the beach, snorkeling, or diving to the depths of Palawan’s magnificent seas. I made a mental note to check out the beach, but first I had a whole new city to explore.

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65

Clockwise from top The subterranean river goes out into the sea; Mesmerizing aerial view of the island paradise; A thriving wildlife; Another point of aerial view, another gasp of awe

66

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If we look at the map of the Philippines and the Palawan Island, we’ll find Puerto Princesa right in the middle, the province itself bound by the South China Sea in the west and the Sulu Sea in the east. Totaling an area of approximately 260,000 hectares, it is the second largest city in the country with approximately 120,000 inhabitants.

It is a city that prides on its cleanliness and natural beauty, and has often been dubbed the capital of ecotourism.

Legend has it that Puerto Princesa was named after a maiden who used to roam the island on certain evenings of the year. Others would say that she receives her name from being a haven for everyone, from the seafarers who dock there to the nature lovers and environmentalists who are amazed by the protected area. History tells us however, that it was named after a Spanish Princess in 1864, Princes Eulalia of Spain. When she died, the place was named Puerto de la Princesa and as time progressed, this was reduced to Puerto Princesa.

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67

the guide Island hopping is a popular activity here, with the Sta Lourdes wharf serving as a port for tourists who want to rent boats for fixed tours or to simply go wherever they like. There are also city tours that brings you to various attractions such as the Iwahig penal colony, the Crocodile Farm, Butterfly Garden and Mitra’s Ranch. The Iwahig is a unique wall-less prison colony where convicts act as they would living in a village. They cultivate rice and other crops, do fishing or carve handicraft products for souvenirs.

At the top of my list of must-see attractions however, was Palawan’s most esteemed wonders – the Underground River. The Subterranean River National Park at Puerto Princesa is a haven of natural beauty that has been nominated to become one of the new Seven Wonders of the world. Located 50km north of the capital, it boasts a 8.2-kilometer long river that goes through a mesmerizing cave before it makes its exit right into the South China Sea. The journey up north was a good three hours drive, partially through paved roads but also on dirt and muddy roads. As it had rained the night before, the road condition was especially bad and we got stuck twice on our way there. Nothing too serious, but a fun experience never the less.

Finally, we reached the opening of the Underground River. Right at the mouth of the cave lies a clear, peaceful lagoon that supports a thriving wildlife.

Monkeys, monitor lizards, squirrels and other friendly animals find their ecosystem near the cave. We picnicked and ate our lunch as we waited for our turn to get into the Underground River.

68

Finally it was our turn! As our tour guide warned us about safety precautions and what not to do inside, we were led in slowly. The cave was extremely dark, and it will take sometime for you to get used to. As such, the boat turtled onwards, gently making its way through the scintillating river. You will be awed by the exquisite beauty of the stalactites and stalagmites in rainbow colors – a truly wondrous view. The rock formations inside were truly one of a kind, a breathtaking experience comparable to none. A regular tour lasts approximately 45 minutes, going up to 1.5 kilometers into the cave.

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Other than exploring the cave, Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park also offers other activities such as mountain and rock climbing, bird watching and the likes. Aside from the Underground River, the area boasts a number of cave systems worth exploring. Climbing Ugong Rock allows one to view the spectacular karst formations and surrounding natural beauty. Other areas to explore include the Lions Cave, Daylight Hole and the Kawili Cave.The site contains a full ‘mountain-to-sea’ ecosystem and has some of the most important forests in Asia. Very recently, the underground river has been nominated to be a part of the world’s New Seven Wonders of Nature, landing in the top 77 nominees.

Previous spread, clockwise The clouds form a magical shadow over the National Park; At the entrance of the subterranean river; Venturing into the dark cave; Paddling back out after a fun adventure This page, from top The National Park is located low, very near the sea level; Relaxing in the clear lagoon at the mouth of the river

70

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the guide

Natalie Revie journeyed

into Thailand’s jungle paradise to find it beautifully evolving into a different entity

72

The island paradise of Koh Phangan is slowly but surely attracting its worthy share of developers and luxury travelers. But fortunately, the island seemed determined to balance between its development and natural charms, a relief to budget travelers and luxury high-fliers all around

the guide

Lying in the shimmering turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand, Koh Phangan is a party-goers paradise of legendary proportions. With its infamous full moon party every month for the last two decades, Koh Phangan has truly established itself as the destination of choice for party-animals, hippies and backpackers alike. Recently however, it has evolved into 5-star boutique resort destination, an astonishing transformation that is not unlike a blossoming of a young flower into a beautiful, elegant lady.

Having escaped the brutal development of its sister island Koh Samui, Koh Phangan remained until recently the quiet, little-known sister of the two; failing to show up on all but the most backpack savvy trails, and flying entirely under the radar of commercial hotels and package-holiday tourism.

But change is coming to this jungle paradise isle, as the big hotels and developers turn their beady eyes from the already ravaged Koh Samui and realize that today’s luxury guests want something a little different for their dollars.

And the little-known hippy paradise of Koh Phangan may be able to provide exactly that. With its broad white sandy beaches, set against unspoiled jungle backdrops and glittering ocean, Koh Phangan exudes a special magical privacy to invigorate even the most jaded international jet-setter.

Added to that, its relatively slow development will hopefully mean it has learned its lesson from neighboring Koh Samui’s mistakes. At the moment it certainly seems that way; as the small number of developers and big hotels moving in are not only developing with an eye to natural aesthetics, but with a common commitment to green ethos and protecting the island’s gorgeous flora and fauna.

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The coast of Tong Nai Pan Noi

Attracting the most attention in the 5-star resort stakes is the stunning Thong Nai Pan, on the northeast corner of the lush island. Thong Nai Pan has been called ‘the jewel of Koh Phangan’ and for years was the best kept secret in the region, as inaccessible as it was by bumpy pickup over an unpaved jungle track.

Now Thong Nai Pan has been recognized as the truly 5-star destination on Koh Phangan and this year new luxury resort, Rasananda, opened its doors for business, right next to the traditional $5-a-night backpacker huts of old Koh Phangan.

That these two polar opposites – backpackers and jet-setters – co-exist so seamlessly on one beach is perhaps testament to the special magic of Thong Nai Pan. And credit must be given where it’s due to Rasananda management; who have managed to create an elegant, beautiful resort that still gives a nod to the rustic Thai charm which entrances visitors to Thailand every year.

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At the moment, luxury 300-threadcount towels lie on sun-loungers next to hippies on their way to the next low-key destination of choice for backpackers.

At night the jungle reverberates to the sounds of the traditional Thong Nai Pan parties and bongo drums; but quietly, so as not to disturb the guests in their $300 dollar-a-night rooms. Who knows how long that arrangement is set to last? But currently, and unusually it seems to be entirely harmonious.

In addition to these high-end tourists, the beach has naturally attracted an interesting community of expats. Thong Nai Pan’s off-the-beaten track location has proved a huge draw to these intrepid folk: the result is an eclectic mix of interests and nationalities represented on the beach; from Alaskan kayakbuilders to Israeli cheese-makers. With more residences being built privately and by small local developers, the community is set to increase in both size and diversity.

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So the wild hippy paradise of yesteryear is changing. But uncommonly for Thailand, it is being altered with sensitivity, taste and discretion. The result is very different from days-goneby – more refined definitely, but no less beautiful.

Now when the full moon shines on Koh Phangan, it finds not just the drunken revelers of yore, but beautiful residences, resorts and restaurants; complementing the exquisite natural surroundings, and created in harmony with the environment. As it comes of age the jewel in its crown, Thong Nai Pan, sets a leading example not just for Koh Phangan but for development in Thailand as a whole.

The crystal blue water is perfect for water sports and activities

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the guide

Amidst the influx of overflowing tourists, Bali retains its hidden charms and unexplored attractions, Barrie Lie-Birchall enthuses.

Fog and mist creeping into the forest as the setting sun envelops the horizon. Ubud, Bali.

Scenic surf and steep cliffs on the coastline

Bali, unlike other islands in the archipelago of Indonesia, is drenched in mass tourism, and yet, the Balinese still retain their cultural and religious ways of life; unaffected. The cyclonic invasion of this tiny island began with a trickle in the 1930’s with the likes of artists Walter Spies, Rudolf Bonnet and Le Mayeur, but soon became a novelty destination for celebrities such as Noel Coward, amongst others. Bali’s eventual step into the limelight was predominately due to anthropologist Margaret Mead who researched and documented, in-depth, the Balinese.

As a paradise destination for westerners, this became apparent when the island of Bali became a stopover on the renowned ‘hippy trail’ in the 1960’s.

From then on the steady flow of tourists increased over the coming decades.

As the tourist influx grew and Bali was flooded with carefree tourists from around the world, it soon became a target for anti-western extremist Islamic groups. In October 2002, the main tourist district of Kuta was devastated by three massive bombs killing 202 people. The impact upon the Bali tourism industry was immediate. Bali was soon to be crushed again on October 1, 2005 with a series of terrorist suicide bomb attacks in Jimbaran and Kuta. The Balinese feared a repeat upon tourism that occurred previously in 2002. It didn’t happen.

The ancient temple of Taman Ayun

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the guide

Bali once again enjoys boom times with record numbers of tourists visiting the island. There are numerous reasons this tiny Hindu island possesses immense appeal to westerners. Primarily, it’s a cheap holiday destination with much the same on offer as most South-east Asian destinations; good shopping, relaxed tropical atmosphere, bars and nightclubs as well as restaurants every 50 metres. Bali is geared towards tourists and first impressions will see you being overwhelmed.

More than Meets the Eye But, there is more to Bali than the aforementioned. It is an island that possesses a spiritual mystique woven around a unique culture and a religion that is a fascinating amalgam of animism and Indian Hindu beliefs. In the land of a 1,000 temples, religion is the dominating force and this can be seen in the daily rituals and ceremonies of the Balinese.

Travelling around Bali can be an enlightening experience. The delightful thing is that wherever you go, your senses are tantalised by sheer beauty.

Green textured rice paddies clinging to hillsides and rugged mountains are mesmerising. Being an island of varied landscapes it affords some of the most spectacular panoramas in the Indonesian archipelago.

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Green rice terraces forms a beautiful scenery

It is no wonder then that Bali is so appealing. Travelling anywhere across the 140-kilometer wide island yields breathtaking surprises and everlasting impressions. An island covering an area of 5, 561 sq kilometer and totally surrounded by crystal blue oceans it is only natural that a lot of the coastline is spectacular, and at dusk, unforgettable mind-blowing sunsets. Coconut-palm lined sandy beaches and sparkling clear waters offer some of the best scuba diving and surfing to be found anywhere in the world.

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The whole island is one enjoyable surprise after the other. Walking around traditional markets has always been one of my favourites taking in the atmosphere of Balinese traders haggling or imbibing in the delights of the array of traditional foods. Scaling the steps of centuries old temple and gazing at the myriad of statues slowly being eroded by time or witnessing a temple festival with the Balinese in colourful dress has never ceased to amaze me. Bali has something to offer everybody. Talking slow walks along sandy beaches at sunset or being adventurous and bungyjumping off dizzy heights, or just chillingout leisurely wandering the streets talking to the locals.

the guide

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Pura Ulun Danu temple on Lake Brataan, Bali, Indonesia

Unexplored Paradise Getting around Bali is quite easy and there are many areas in Bali that are rarely visited by tourists or travellers alike. Then there are those areas yet to be fully developed as a tourist destination. The east coast of the island is one such area that has escaped the onslaught. This is one part of the island that has always entranced me. Sleepy fishing villages are dotted up and down the coastline with deserted beaches lined with row after row of colourful fishing boats. Inland you will find pristine areas of dense jungle clinging to towering hillsides and valleys with a carpet of rich-green rice paddies.

Not far from the town of Amlapura there is a place seldom seen by regular tourists that has the most stunning and beautiful panoramic view of rice fields on the entire island of Bali. It is a place

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called Ngis, a small village barely visible from the main road. In between the town of Amlapura and the village of Abang along the east coast road you will come to a sharp bend in the road and here you will find the heavenly view.

The island of Bali is the epitome of paradise. Where else in the tropics could you drive through a massive hole in a sacred Banyan tree, be thrilled at the power of white-water as you raft furiously along the rapids of the Ayung River deep in the jungle, or go fishing with the locals on their traditional boats.

Bali has something for everyone. If you are just a tourist with a desire to chillout and relax or possesses a lust for adventure, a passion for archaeological history or perhaps a nature-lover; Bali and its friendly people have all these and much, much more.

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Being centrally located in the archipelago, Bali affords the traveller opportunities to visit the other islands in Indonesia with a variety of inexpensive flights on offer utilising numerous airline services. You can virtually travel to all points of the compass and experience other cultures for as many days as you like and still return to Bali and finish your holiday.

Bali as a tourist destination in Southeast Asia has so much more to offer.

It is an island where you can relax in sheer luxury at high-end resorts, or revel in the crazed tourist scene of Kuta in budget accommodation. Bali is an island where you can live on $10 a day quite comfortably and an island where you can be a global citizen in paradise and, it is a place that time has not forgotten but respected for its unique culture and friendly people.

STYLE GUIDE

A Tropical

Affair

Unrestraint and picturesque

settings conjure a perfect beachfront rendezvous by the seaside coast

of Segarra, Jakarta.

Photographed by Bona Soetirto,

with make up and styling by

the Dresscode Team.

Modern batik printed dress – Nila Kandi at Alun Alun Indonesia; Heart buckled ethnic belt – Tari Maya at Alun Alun Indonesia; Crossed-weaved heels – Dum Dum at Alun Alun Indonesia; Ringlets Bracelet – Origo at Alun Alun Indonesia

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STYLE GUIDE

This Page Tie-dyed summer dress – Lilou at Alun Alun Indonesia; Colorful Ringlets Statement Necklace – Divvy Hippy Yippy at Alun Alun Indonesia; Rope wooden sandals – Heroine at Alun Alun Indonesia; Batik printed clutch – Ilalang at Alun Alun Indonesia Opposite Page Long wool shawl (worn as a headband) – Mellies Moss at Alun Alun Indonesia; Tube summer dress – BIASA; Batik printed corset (worn as an obi) – Nila Kandi at Alun Alun Indonesia; Rattan ethnic bangles (set of 3) – Diori at Alun Alun Indonesia; Gold Ethnic flats – Giffa at Alun Alun Indonesia; Hand-painted decorative umbrella – Nila Kandi at Alun Alun Indonesia

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STYLE GUIDE

Sarong style skirt (worn as a tube dress) – BIASA; Striped vest – BIASA; Multicolor statement necklace – Divvy Hippy Yippy at Alun Alun Indonesia; Crossed-weaved beach hat – Nila Kandi at Alun Alun Indonesia; Fish scales sandals – VNC

Modeled by Audrey; Styled by the DRESSCODE Team; Photographed by Bona Soetirto;

Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions

THE INAUGURAL ISSUE WIN HOTEL STAYS IN BALI, HK AND MORE!

Culture, Lifestyle and Attractions

Vol 01 Dec/Jan/Feb 2010

Raja Ampat Phuket Puerto Princesa Koh Pha Ngan Bali

Vol 01 - Issue 01 www.unearthingasia.com IDR 50.000 SGD 7.50 RM 14.00

New Zealand’s Splashing Lake Taupo + A Guide to Middle Eastern Cuisine + Heeding the Call of Asia in Taiwan + Singapore Stopover + Spotlight on Jakarta + Flashpacking Essentials + A Tropical Affair

Unearthing Asia The latest addition to your list of essential reading, Unearthing Asia is a magazine dedicated to inspiring its readers to explore this beautiful region we call home. The magazine is an indispensable guide to Asia, featuring exciting adventures, stunning sceneries and unique attractions from all over the region.

For this inaugural issue, we are generously offering our readers free one year subscriptions. And not only that, subscribers also stand a chance to win free hotel stays at various destinations – Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bali! Turn to page 42 for more details.

tales gourmet

Nabeetha Naseer samples the vivacious array of culinary delights

from the region of Middle East, and comes up with a tasty guide for the foodie at heart.

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Arabian cuisine usually consists of a dozen or more small dishes. They can be eaten on its own, but more commonly used as dip for pita bread, or mixed with one another

Right, from top Pita bread a serving of dips; Grilled chicken with vegetables

Middle Eastern cuisines come in a wide variety of taste, shape and color. Each country adds their own distinct touches to the mix, completing a vibrant map of culinary delights throughout the region.

A common bond between them however, is the usage of aromatic spices. Honey, sumac, sesame seeds, parsley, mint and chickpeas – these are a few of the common ingredients you’ll find throughout the region. While a meal may exclude meat, it is almost never without the region’s staple food, bread.

Mezze (or appetizers) When you are in Lebanon, make sure to try out a course of mezze and you’ll realize right away why the tables are all super large. You’ll be served dozens of small dishes with exotic tidbits all placed on the table at once Some of the more common mezzes are the baba ghanouj, an eggplant dip; borek, feta-stuffed phyllo pastries and dolmas, stuffed grape leaves. The baba ghanouj is especially tasty, but be warned – it can be quite spicy!

Main Courses Depending on which country you are in, the main course could vary between kebabs of grilled chicken or lamb; felafels, deep-fried chickpea balls; khoresh, lamb stew in a sweet-sour sauce. It may even contain a number of rice dishes that is mixed with meats, vegetables, fruits and nuts.

For the uninitiated, kebabs are generally grilled or broiled meats over skewer or sticks. Since Muslims do not consume pork, the most commonly used meat are chicken, beef and lamb. It has become a part of everyday multicultural cuisines around the globe. Iskender kebab is a famed specialty from Bursa, northern Turkey, in which thinly cut grilled lamb is basted with tomato sauce over pide bread and generously slathered with melted butter and yogurt.

Vegetables, salads and breads This is the usual companion of meals. Among the common ones are Tabboulleh (tart parsley), sautĂŠed tomato and eggplant with yogurt, spinach, pita, flat breads and the traditional Jewish Challah.

Desserts and Snacks You are normally served a small cup of sweet, thick, coffee.

One thing I learned is to leave the sludge at the bottom. It can give your throat an itchy, uneasy feeling, unless if you are in Iran where tea are commonly served. Other desserts include baklava and perhaps almond crusted cookies as well. Desserts are served occasionally. But for those who fancy desserts on their own, most bakeries tend to sell sweet pastries and the likes to curb your sweet tooth cravings.

Brides Fingers (Asabia el Aroos) are slender crisps of filo filled with sweetened nuts that are popular with the locals. They are comparable to the likes of baklava, but with lower calories and fat. Protein and fiber are in abundance due to the inclusion of nuts.

Meals in the Middle East are often eaten using your hands, following the Islamic tradition that is prevalent in the region.

If you’re uncomfortable with this, do not hesitate to ask for a fork and spoon. But if you are to try eating with your hands, avoid doing so with your left hand, as it is forbidden in the Islamic tradition to do so.

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tales ART

Heeding the

Call

After years of traveling around the region of Asia,

photographer Craig Ferguson

finally settled down in Taiwan.

He shared tales of his amazing

journey with Nikolas Tjhin.

Light shining into Khao Luang Caves, Phetburi (Phetchaburi), Thailand.

The yearly pilgrimage for Mazu, The Goddess of the Sea, in Taiwan

Taiwan home, and is starting to shift his focus away from travel photography into music, wedding and personal portrait type photography.

Bright red lanterns.

Always with a camera.

Photo credit - Selina Ferguson.

The call of Asia is a strong one. With its numerous cultural traditions and some of the most fascinating sights on earth, it’s no wonder how so many people have fallen head over heels with this beautiful region. Craig Ferguson is one such victim, having fallen in love with Asia over his various treks throughout the region. Now, the awardwinning photographer calls

First Love Craig hailed from Australia, having grown up mostly in a beach-side suburb of Sydney. Even from a very young age, he has always shown an interest in photography, “I remember always wanting to take pictures with my dad’s ‘slide camera’.” He then learned the ropes on his own on a Manual SLR while at school in the 1980s and progressed from there. He initially studied science and graduated with a degree in Environmental Science. Right off graduation, he traveled through Asia for a year, landing in Bangkok and simply “winging it” as he goes along. “I had nothing booked, and worked it out as I went along. Somehow, I found my way onto a local bus to Banglamphu, and then into a cheap guesthouse. After that, I basically made it up as I went along!” shared the enthusiastic traveler.

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Japanese gate, Hualien, Taiwan.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia, a World Heritage site and a major tourist destination

tales ART

That impromptu travel lasted a whole 12 months and more, on a path that sees him on a very unusual backpackers trail across Asia. He headed south towards the Thai islands for a while, then down into Malaysia before crossing over into Sumatra – “orangutans, lakes and surfing made up most of it,” and then to Bali, transiting in Singapore, then to Lombok, back to Bali, then onwards to Jakarta through Mount Bromo and Yogyakarta.

“I mostly did it alone, meeting up with other travelers along the way. I’d saved enough money that I was able to travel backpacker style for the year without needing to work. People often ask what the best memory etc is and it’s really hard to say – there were so many highlights!”

Having exhausted the south eastern part of Asia, he headed back up towards Surat Thani, Koh Pha Ngan and then Bangkok, and onwards to Nepal for a slower pace of life, trekking in the Annapurnas and exploring the old parts of Kathmandu. He spent a good five months in the Himalayans region, before heading back home to Australia, but not before a final couple weeks of relaxation on Koh Tao.

Heeding the Call After returning to Australia, Craig searched around for a fulfilling opportunity, but never found it.

Following a short stint in corporate IT, local governance, hospitality and NGOs, he didn’t find anything that fits him and gave him satisfaction. “After some halfhearted attempts to fit into the standard career-track in Australia, the call of Asia grew too strong,” he shared.

So in 2001, he booked a ticket back to Bangkok and went on the road again.

Starting out in southern Thailand, his so called second round of travel sees him journey to Langkawi, Burma and then onto Nepal. From there he went to Kathmandu, and on to Lhasa, Tibet.

“All this happened a couple of days after the 9/11 attack in the US, so it was an interesting experience to be completely cut off from the news for five days at that particular time,” he shared.

One of the everlasting experiences of this particular travel was the winter pilgrimage season in Bodhgaya, which intrigued Craig so much that he made plans to return the following year as well.

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tales ART Taiwanese opera performer from the Xin Ing Feng Opera Group.

On that second trip to Bodhgaya, he finds himself spending time with some Thai monks who were staying there. “It was through them that I got to meet the Dalai Lama – he came to visit them, and they invited me inside their temple,” he narrated. Craig was privileged enough to be able to witness the ceremony between the two different Buddhist traditions, and also shake hands with and speak to the Dalai Lama.

Settling Down Following that, Craig headed back east to replenish his funds. He stopped in Thailand and Vietnam, before ending up in Taiwan where a friend was already based. Initially, his intention was to stay for one to two years, and then continue traveling, but he ended up falling in love with the lifestyle here and stayed longer. He has now spent seven years in Taiwan – “it was a pretty easy transition to make to life here. I spent a substantial part of the time living in one of the smaller cities, which was an amazing experience. Along the way, I met and married my wife, and we have no plans to leave,” he enthused.

To Craig, being a travel photographer is rewarding work but hard. “As well as all the usual frustrations of travelers everywhere, but there’s the added pressure of marketing, chasing clients,

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looking for new leads and meeting deadlines,” he noted, “I wouldn’t swap it for the world though!”. To budding travel photographers, his sound advice is to “try to shoot the images and subjects that give you the most satisfaction. Shoot what you enjoy. And then shoot it again. Let your own nautral style and creativity show through, and you’ll find success starts to come your way,” he opined. “I got into travel photography as a result of my love of photography and my love of travel. The rest just followed.”

“It’s hard to choose a favorite place because I’ve been to so many great places,” Craig shares. Amongst his list of highlights, some stood out more than others.

Naturally, his meeting with the Dalai Lama in Bodhgaya is one of them, “the whole India and Nepal area is one I love, although it’s been quite a few years since I was last there.” On top of that, Craig also had a soft spot for Thailand, where he spent a few trips photographing the various Angkor-era ruins in both Cambodia and Thailand which have proved to be photographic highlights.

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Now, Craig is busy building a multifaceted photography business. He is starting to teach photography, with group workshops and a couple of one-on-one students, with his focus drifting a little further away from travel photography since being here. He now shoot a lot of portraiture, weddings and music as well, and had the pleasure to shoot for Oasis when they toured earlier this year, which included interviewing Noel Gallagher for 30 minutes before the show. Once again, persistence is key to his success, a tip he constantly shares with his students and friends alike.

Oasis, performing in Taiwan “A Moving Sound�, a Taiwanese theater performance

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tales adventure

Splashing

Taupo

Lake

Debbie Reyes-Coloma ventured into the Kiwi’s stunning landscape

to find the Maori spirit of adventure well fanned and alive

One of the most famous hiking routes in the Tongariro National Park leads to this amazing sight of the Blue Lake Š Destination Lake Taupo

A cliff stone carving © Darryl Torckler

The Waikato River is the longest waterway in New Zealand © Rob Suisted

The Kiwis are known for inventing some of the world’s craziest, most extreme adventures, such as bungy jumping and zorbing. Perhaps inspired

by New Zealand’s pure natural surroundings—from vast open spaces filled with stunning rugged landscapes to gorgeous beaches, awe-inspiring geothermal and volcanic wonders, and temperate climate—the Kiwi’s spirit of adventure is what has attracted visitors from across the globe to join in the fun.

Situated in the volcanic heart of the North Island, the Lake Taupo region is home to New Zealand’s largest fresh water lake, fascinating geothermal areas and the famous Huka Falls.

The youngest country on earth has some of the most incredible water adventures that guests can experience.

Plus there are plenty of chances to take a break and continue the fun on dry land.

Water activities take place in the lakes all year round—which include waterskiing, parasailing, jet skiing, fishing, cruising, swimming, kayaking, canoeing, and sailing. There is no shortage of activities for vacationers regardless of age or fitness. There are also many tour operators in the region who offer day trips or overnight camping excursions.

Lake Taupo is Australasia’s largest lake.

It was created by a gigantic volcanic eruption in 181AD. Spanning 619 sq km, it is as big as Singapore. The lake’s attractive pumice sand beaches give it the appearance of an inland ocean.

With 47 rivers and streams flowing into the lake, this area is renowned for trout fishing and kayaking. The Waikato River is the only river flowing out of the lake.

At 425 km in length, it is New Zealand’s largest natural waterway. To the local Kiwis, the Waikato River has always been a great provider—from fish and freshwater lobster to drinking water, irrigation and hydroelectric power.

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tales adventure

Below Tandem skydiving will show you the most stupendous view of the central North Island Far Below If you prefer your scenery with a large dash of action, catch a jet boat ride to the base of Huka Falls

Lake Taupo and its connecting rivers represent one of the most prolific wild trout fisheries in the world @ Gareth Eyres

© Destination Lake Taupo © Destination Lake Taupo

Feel the exhilaration and the power of a Hukafalls Jet (www.hukafallsjet.com) boat ride! Marvel at the incredible water level views of the spectacular Huka Falls, and enjoy the sensation as you slide past cliffs and trees at 80km per hour. The awesome performance of the Huka Jet boats will put your heart in your mouth when your driver spins your Huka Jet through 360° in its own length at high speed.

Be ready to get wet!

To scuba dive in Lake Taupo, one needs experience and professional help because of the lake’s location above sea level. To the amateur diver this requires skill in reading your depth gauge. You should seek advice and assistance from a qualified professional scuba diving school or tour operator in the area. Should you wish to scuba dive in a volcanic area, White Island off the coast of Whakatane is a unique experience as New Zealand’s only active marine volcano.

Because of the warm waters, aquatic life is abundant.

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www.unearthingasia.com

You’ll never regret walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. This 17-kilometre volcanic trail rises to 1600 metres above sea level, leading you over ancient lava flows, up mountain summits, along scoria slopes and through craters. There’s nothing else like it in the world Š Destination Lake Taupo

The chilly waters at the mouth of the Waitahanui Stream are easier to stand when there’s the distraction of an amazing sunset © Gareth Eyres

Lake Taupo’s panoramic 360° views are amazing. A chartered cruise is one of the best ways to experience golden sunsets, tranquil waters and pumice beaches. Sailing on a yacht, chugging on the old steamboat or speeding across the lake on a launch is also a thrilling way to spend a day or late afternoon. The lake’s reflective waters mirror mountains, bush and sky. Make sure you have your camera with you.

From parasailing to wakeboarding, Lake Taupo is the ideal place to try your nerve and your water skills. Arriving in Taupo by road as a visitor, it’s just so wonderful to see this beautiful lake full of swimmers, sail boats, water skiers, speedboats or jet skis. It’s such a beautiful holiday scene with people enjoying and relaxing on the lakeshores despite the season.

Take the Clearwater Cruises (www.clearwater.co.nz) through stunning Lake Tarawera on the 38-foot luxury

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launch Clearwater Pride. There is a full range of fishing equipment on board so guests can try fishing for trophy-sized rainbow trout. Cook your catch in thermal sand at Hot Water beach, where you can also enjoy a soak in a natural hot spring. The majestic backdrop of a dormant volcano, naturally heated thermal waters and unspoiled flora and fauna provide a beautiful playground, and Clearwater staff can organise a range of on-water and land-based activities.

The Tongariro River is known as the perfect river for your first white water rafting experience. It’s the exciting, wet, wild adventure that any brave adventurer needs to do. It’s the white water seekers challenge of fun. Float past ancient beech forests, through gorges, past limestone and volcanic cliffs and then race down 50m ‘roller coaster’ rapids at exhilarating speeds. The white water rafting experience can be a peaceful drifting trip on the Tongariro’s or the

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Mohaka for the adventure seeker who needs the thrill of blasting down endless rapids at a romping pace. Now’s your chance to race the rapids!

At Orakei Korako, the Hidden Valley (www.orakeikorako.co.nz), go back in time in this unique geothermal wonderland, one of nature’s true gifts.

Cross the Waikato River by boat, and then explore a world of gushing geysers, hot springs, boiling mud pools and some of the largest silica terraces in the world.

New Zealand has four seasons: Summer (14°C from Dec to February), Autumn (10°C from March to May), Winter (9°C from June to August) and Spring (12°C from Sept to November). The weather in New Zealand can change unexpectedly as cold fronts or tropical cyclones quickly blow in. Check www.metservice.co.nz before your trip.

Visit www.newzealand.com for more adventures off and on the ground.

The volcanic landscapes of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing never fail to surprise.

Within this world of earth tones that were spewed from subterranean magma vaults, wild colours provide visual excitement. Here you can see the Emerald Lakes, explosion craters that have filled with mineral-rich water running down from the Red Crater thermal area Š Destination Lake Taupo

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A place unparalleled for its calm and serene environment within a tropical oasis of landscaped gardens. Indulge in Bali Breakaway package at USD 695 for 4days/3nights in two bedrooms villa inclusive of welcome fruit and flowers, daily breakfast and one-time seafood BBQ in villa, free wi-fi internet connection and round trip airport transfers.

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dekuta

Aizuya Hotel

Park Hotel Clarke Quay

Set in modern minimalist design which equipped with LCD TV 32”, rain shower and wi-fi internet connection in all areas, dekuta is strategically located in the heart of Kuta.

We offer a very special rate in March at IDR 728.000,- nett per night for a Superior room, inclusive of breakfast for two.

A Japanese Inn where you will experience traditional authentic Japanese cuisine made with local ingredients. Japanese Room @ Y18,000, Japanese Twin Room @ Y22,000, Japanese Room w/ private natural spa @ Y28,000. Stay 3 nights and pay for only 2 nights. Price includes Dinner & Breakfast.

Terms and conditions apply.

Club Single/Twin Room for S$238++ per night. Inclusive of complimentary buffet breakfast, unlimited internet access and local calls, unlimited evening cocktails and beverages, Meeting Room usage and laundry, Mini-bar, Executive set lunch at Brizo Restaurant & Bar, River Taxi ride from Clarke Quay, and late check-out till 6pm.

Terms and conditions apply.

Jl Poppies Lane II #8 Kuta, Bali, Indonesia Tel: (62) 361 753880 Fax: (62) 362 752787 Website: www.dekuta.com

Aizuya, Shiobara, Nasui-Shiobara, Japan Tel: +81 3 3541 4967 Fax: +81 3 3541 4968 E-mail: shiraishi@japanxpress.co.jp Website: www.aizuya.net

Park Hotel Clarke Quay 1 Unity Street, Singapore 237983 Tel: (65) 6593 8888 Fax: (65) 6593 8899 Website: www.parkhotelgroup.com

citibank highlights Travel Privileges with Citi Platinum Card

Enjoy a complimentary upgrade wherever you go Whether it is business or leisure, you can enjoy the following complimentary upgrade privileges: • Purchase your ticket at any Bayu Buana Travel Services and get a chance for a complimentary upgrade to Business Class of any of your preferred airlines (1 upgrade per day). • Enjoy a complimentary room upgrade at any participating 5-star Hotels in Indonesia Exclusively for Citi Ultima, Citi Platinum and Garuda Indonesia Citi Cards. For Travel information, contact Bayu Buana at (021) 2350 9999 or visit www.citibank.co.id for Hotel information.

Travel promotion is valid until 6 January 2010. Hotel promotion is valid until 30 April 2010. Terms and Conditions applied.

Garuda Indonesia Citi Card

Medical coverage on your overseas travel As Garuda Indonesia Citi Cardholders, you are automatically guaranteed a medical insurance coverage on your travel outside Indonesia. When you travel overseas, and medical expenses occur caused by accident or sickness, you will be covered for your hospital stay, medical surgery or any doctor consultation fees up to Rp 300,000,000*. Your family is also covered. So, make sure you always travel with Garuda Indonesia Citi Card.

* The above value may change in accordance to company policies.

Refund will not be given to any medical fees that occurred when or after the cardholder (or spouse) is over the age of 70 years old. This information is made available for the sole purpose of informing the public, it is not a valid insurance policy. Terms and Conditions applied.

Also get TRIPLE GFF Miles for all transactions at Supermarket, Gasoline and Departement Store from 16 November 2009 - 28 February 2010

The AYANA Resort and Spa Bali

The Fairmont Beijing Hotel

Fill out our survey to enjoy a Free 1 Year Subscription* and stand a chance to win free hotel stays!* We are offering free one year subscriptions to residents of Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta.* On top of that, you’ll also be in the running to win free hotel stays at various destinations – Hong Kong, Jakarta and Bali! Turn to page 42 for more details.

* Terms & conditions apply

travel horoscope

Sagittarius (Nov 22-Dec 21) Flee as far as possible from your usual haunts. Shed away your habitual influences and your customary comforts. For you Sagittarius, the time is right for a simple break of isolation and new experiences.

Invent a new character, a personality with an interesting back story, and enjoy a week of acting and play-making in the isolated heights of Tibet. After playing out your fantasy, you’ll do well to reflect back and determine a new direction for your personal life.

Capricorn (Dec 22 - Jan 19) The time is right to head back into your natural habitat, dear Capricorn. I suspect this will be a place flooded with sea water, a place in between worlds, a doomed beauty that will sooner or later die away – much like everything else on earth actually. Venice is one such destination, a hauntingly beautiful city doomed to lose itself to the drowning sea. Don’t worry too much about whether things are going your way. Relax and go with the flow.

Aquarius (Jan 20 - Feb 18)

The isolated heights of Tibet awaits you Sagittarius

Pisces (Feb 19 - Mar 20)

Aries (Mar 21 - Apr 19)

You’re not fully informed – quite yet. But being in this place feels liberating.

Suddenly, you feel able to do and say all kinds of things that didn’t seem permissible before. Go for it! You’ll meet up with other people who are in similar states of transformation and journey, and together you’ll form quite a merry crew. Make sure all the proper forms have been filled out over the weekend – this next part of your trip requires meticulous attention to make sure it all goes smoothly.

According to my analysis of the astrological omens, the nonchalant Aries is largely unaware of the creative energy that has been welling up inside you. Your homework, Aries, is to let loose and tap into this creative energy. May I suggest a trip to the Big Durian of South East Asia, Jakarta? It’s a place where you can do anything you want to, or so they say. You’ll find all of your most creative inner whims fulfilled with a simple snap of your finger.

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www.unearthingasia.com

Party harder and smarter than usual Aquarius. The time is nigh to drown yourself in alcoholic beverages of all kind. Celebrate the coming festivities with a bang, and give toast to the coming year. The passing year may seem full of negative experiences, but they are important in shaping you up for the brighter future ahead. In fact, I would book a ticket to the Christmas Islands if I were you, to boldly welcome the coming new year as soon as possible.

Taurus (Apr 20 - May 20) A little of bad news is coming your way Taurus, but don’t give up – the story is far from over! Take some time out in the middle of this stressful period to collect yourself and ponder a thought. I’m thinking a place of leisure and relaxation, like the southern islands of the coast of Thailand.

Renew your energy and figure out what comes next, and then get back into it right away after your well-deserved break.

Gemini (May 21 - June 20) You’re totally ready to take things to the next level, romantically or in some other way. I envision an eventful getaway in the near future, with the sweet smell of romance in the air. Bali is a popular place for honeymooners, but that maybe too early for you. Maybe start of slow, with the sun-filled days off the coast of Palawan?

Cancer (June 21 - July 22) For the foreseeable future, the cosmos grant you the license to thrive on the unexpected blessings that come from giving yourself to the random intelligence of a stranger. There will be an offer to travel and celebrate the festivities together, away from your usual crowd of friends and family. Take it!

After all, your friends and family will still be there for you come 2010.

They can wait.

Leo (July 23 - Aug 22) Life is just way too short to worry about people needlessly! So if you’re wondering about what people may think of you as you embark on this personal adventure, fret not. Life is only worth living your own way, as I always say. The city of Queenstown in New Zealand offers much in the way of adventure, dubbing itself the Adventure Capital of the World. Get set and let the adrenaline roar!

Virgo (Aug 23 - Sep 22) The most challenging parts of your travels have also brought you the greatest lessons. When you think about everything you’ve done and seen, you’re grateful for all of your experiences. Make an effort to range far and wide during your explorations. It was said there are so many ramen stalls in Tokyo that even if you were to eat ramen thrice a day, it would take a good few years to try them all out. Better start now.

Libra (Sep 23 - Oct 22) Spare no expense. Don’t put restraints on your enjoyment or give yourself a subconscious guilt trip for what you’re seeing and doing. All this mental liberation leads you to want to try a few daring physical acts too, and you would do well to follow your heart’s content – lest you live to regret this missed opportunity for a unique experience.

Scorpio (Oct 23 - Nov 21) Before you commence your life-long dream Scorpio, whatever that may be, I bid you make your peace with God. A spiritual journey is on the cards – may I suggest the region of India? It’s an area reeking with religious mysticism, from the Gods and Goddesses of Hinduism to the passionate compassion of the Buddha, you’ve got it all here.

bon voyage

The winner of 2008’s Cleo Award for the Best Young Designer, Stella Rissa is fast becoming a rising star in the Asian fashion industry. Fresh off the plane from her London trip, she snuck some time out from her hectic preparation for the upcoming Jakarta Fashion Week to share with us her love and passion for traveling.

I love to travel. I love to go to new places, interesting destination that is more than just a shopping destination. I always have a good impression for new places, and what attracts me the most is the culture, the food and the people. I love to meet new people and find new perspectives to life and unique ways of life that can only be found from the lives of local people.

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I often go to New York to visit my sister, at least once every two years, which is a very hectic, fast-paced city that never fails to amaze. It’s a great place to go for a creative inspiration, because its one of the most stylish trend-setting fashion cities in the world, but you do have to be careful of overloading your senses. That happens often here, it’s crazy! It’s like one world in the same place together.

Bali is another favorite, a paradise haven close to my hometown, and in fact its really like my second home. Beautiful people, amazing

culture, artistic inspirations and jaw-dropping nature, and it’s all in Rupiah – much cheaper than spending in Dollars and Yens! I go there at least once every two months, and my favorite places in Bali are KuDeTa for its amazing ambiance, and the new Rock Bar which simply boasts a spectacular looking venue. I don’t really enjoy much of the luxurious fine-dining scene in Bali, as I prefer authentic local food, like at Warung Made.

Finally, another destination that I absolutely loved was Japan. I’ve only been there once, but I totally fell in love with the place. The food was amazing, from the street-side stalls serving ramen noodles (a personal favorite) to the luxe sushi restaurants serving one-of-a-kind delicacies, they were all superb! It is also one of the rare places where a very strong cultural roots and a modern outlook in life are mixed seamlessly in harmony. I’m planning for another visit there actually, the sooner the better!