TNT Downunder 697 by TNT MAGAZINE

September 3-9 2012 Issue 697 tntdownunder.com

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A SN NORTHERN TERRITORY ADVENTURE

RICKSHAW ADVENTURE

LOVE THY NEIGHBOUR State Victoria’s crowning glories

A 3,500km Indian journey on three wheels

R E D N U H T C I TROP

nd rth Queensla o n r fa in h c n Bea ills of Missio h c l fu s s li b pills and The thrills, s + NEWS & SPORT WHAT’S ON FILM REVIEWS TRAVELLERS’ TIPS

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ALEX HARMON EDITOR editor@tntdownunder.com

EDITOR’S LETTER Well Spring time is here, and no state could be happier than Victoria (well apart from Tassie) so we head south to discover the country’s capital of cool. Then we get chills of a different type in Mission Beach, north Queensland – a town famous for encouraging travellers to jump out of planes and raft through treacherous rapids. Then we jump over to India for the annual Rickshaw Run. Good times all around!

THIS WEEK OZ DIARY

CHATROOM

FILM

TRAVEL

COMPETITION

NEWS

OPINION

SPORT

LISTINGS NSW

LISTINGS QUEENSLAND

LISTINGS VICTORIA

LISTINGS NT

LISTINGS TASMANIA

LISTINGS SA

LISTINGS WA

LISTINGS NEW ZEALAND

WORK

TRIVIAL PURSUITS

FEATURES QUEEN VICTORIA

Everything you’ll ever need to know about the cosmopolitan state, Victoria

GAME CHANGERS

We chat to the director of Australia’s biggest independent video game festival

MISSION POSSIBLE

The spectacular beauty and heart pounding action found in Mission Beach

WHEEL OVER INDIA

Take part in the wild and wonderful Rickshaw Run. Stories are guaranteed

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OZDIARY EDITORIAL Editor Alex Harmon Staff writer Hugh Radojev Contributors Candace Rose Barton, Priyal Dadhania Interns James Besanvalle, Caitlin Stanway

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The first three rows may get covered in paint

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Account manager Justin Steinlauf Sales Executive Mike Ramsden MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland ACCOUNTS Financial controller Trish Bailey Accountant Hannah Waters

02 8332 7511 tom@tntdownunder.com

PHONE EMAIL

WHERE TO GET TNT

MAIN EVENT FRINGE FESTIVAL SYDNEY

Now into its third year, the Sydney Fringe Festival is one for those who aren’t afraid to get a little bit weird. With a line-up boasting some top Australian and International stand up comedians, visual artists, cabaret singers and, for the more open minded: risqué Burlesque Dancers, this is not your average festival! With 250 shows spread across 73 venues in Sydney’s iconic Inner West and harbour districts you really have no excuse not to go! September 7-30 Various Sydney

sydneyfringe.com

FESTIVAL OF THE WINDS: BONDI

BRISBANE FESTIVAL

DUBBO FESTIVAL

Fighter kites, cartoon characters, giant animals and puppet shows will be just some of the crazy creations to enjoy on beautiful Bondi Beach. This promises to be one of the most colourful festivals on Sydney’s spring calendar. It’ll blow you away!

On the festival’s opening night be amazed as Brisbane lights up! The Golden Casket Light Sphere, a festival fave, returns to the banks of the river. The skyline will transform with laser and lighting effects operating nightly through the festival.

Country NSW comes alive throughout September with art installations, concerts, open-air markets and the first annual NSW Inland Film Festival. With films, doco’s and shorts the festival is perfect for movie buffs and cultural fiends alike.

Sept 9 Bondi Pavilion, Bondi waverley.gov.au

Sept 8-29 Brisbane CBD, Southbank brisbanefestival.com.au

Sept 7 - 30 Dubbo, NSW dubbofestival.com

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Victoria’s secrets From Neighbours to the Apostles, Aussie Rules footy and the snowiest of mountains, there are plenty of reasons to visit Victoria WORDS JAMES BESANVALLE

Despite being Australia’s smallest mainland state, Victoria is crammed full of enough excitement and natural beauty to mean it more than holds its own against its larger neighbours. For starters, Melbourne is the most European of Australia’s cities and has been heralded by many as the best place to shop and drink in Oz. But it’s not just a bustling metropolis, you’ll also be able to lose your echo in the kilometres of bushlands and mountain ranges in Victoria. Home to the breathtaking Twelve Apostles along the scenic Great Ocean Road and the never ending Grampians National Park, Victoria boasts beautiful landscapes for any snap happy tourist. The state’s capital, Melbourne, is the home to many of Australia’s most iconic 6

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events. Thousands flock to Flemington racecourse for the world renowned Melbourne Cup, the tennis courts for the Australian Open and the theatre aisles for the International Comedy Festival. The fusion of café culture and sporadic shopping make Melbourne a paradise for trendy youngsters. (Or hipsters as they are known in these parts.) Restaurants line streets such as Bourke and Chapel, with high end and second hand shopping close by to appease all fashion tastes. To get around the city, hop on the famous Australian trams and take a trip to the Royal Botanic Gardens, where outdoor theatre and musical productions are never few and far between. The Yarra River snakes in between the city and provides a

shimmering glow to the vibrant city. For the explorers out there, walk the hundreds of bush trails or dip your feet in the secluded rivers for white water rafting. If skiing is your thing, just three hours out from Melbourne are the chillingly beautiful ski fields. Melbourne is the home of AFL ‘Aussie Rules’ football, so make sure you kick off the fun (no pun intended) by joining thousands of others in cheering on the local sporting talent. No dice? Perhaps you’re after some nailbiting fun – try your luck gambling at the Crown Casino. There’s so much to do in Victoria, so plan your days carefully – you could easily get lost in all the hype. And with over 35 things that you ‘must do’, you’ll be forgiven for losing yourself in Victoria.

MEET THE NEIGHBOURS

HAVE A PUNT ON THE MELBOURNE CUP

Melbourne has many claims to fame, but the biggest is that it’s home to Neighbours. Take a tour to Pin Oak Court, the filming location for Ramsay Street and/or meet Dr Karl at a Neighbours Night.

The “race that stops a nation” is held on the first Tuesday of November, and Melbourne literally grinds to a halt as everyone takes the day off and blows a week’s wages on a rank outsider.

AUSSIE RULES’ HOME TOWN Australian rules footy is a religion in Melbourne and most weekends worshippers go to the MCG church. Go along for the atmosphere.

WILSONS PROM Walking tracks, abundant wildlife and stunning beaches – it’s not hard to see why the “Prom” is one of the most popular national parks in the country.

SHOOT TO KELLY COUNTRY

LIGHTHOUSE AT CAPE OTWAY They don’t call this infamous stretch of coast the Shipwreck Coast for nothing. For the best views, walk to the top of the Cape Otway lighthouse.

BLOW YOUR WAD AT CROWN CASINO The Aussie’s love casinos and none come as big and glitzy as Crown (Southbank). Have a meal, dance the night away in a club or lose all your hard-earned dollars on the blackjack tables.

“THE ESPY”

Relive the days of Australia’s favourite “crim”, Ned Kelly, around Glenrowan. Visit the gloriously over-the-top Kellyland, or put a bucket on your head and recreate the famous final shoot-out.

A St Kilda institution, you can’t say you’ve been to Melbourne unless you’ve been to check out a band in the grungy Esplanade Hotel.

RIDE THE FREE TRAM

Conveniently situated just a short distance north of Melbourne, the Yarra Valley is one of the state’s top wine producing areas, with dozens of wineries to be visited. Hic.

Hop on the city-circle tram which loops around the heart of the city, stopping at many of the major attractions. And it won’t cost you a cent.

MELBOURNE GAOL Peer into the cells that housed the city’s unsavoury element and see where Ned Kelly stayed.

YARRA VALLEY

SEE PHILLIP ISLAND’S PENGUIN PARADE Watch the “oh-so-cute” little penguins waddle out of the water and head for home, seemingly oblivious to the camera-wielding hordes.

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FIND A BARGAIN AT QUEEN VICTORIA MARKETS This mega-mental market is a source of everything from cheese to fashion. It’s also a great place to pick up a few souvenirs.

WORSHIP THE TWELVE APOSTLES One of Victoria’s most famous sights, these rocks jut dramatically out of the ocean – it’s been scientifically proven it’s impossible to take a bad photo of them.

FEEL THE POWDER

Say “hello” to your innerchild as you hurtle along the heritage-listed rollercoaster in this St Kilda icon. You’ll come out with a smile bigger than the one on the giant freaky-looking face.

CLUBBING

SNOWY RIVER NATIONAL PARK

Pull out your ironed shirts and dancing shoes, as Melbourne has one of the best clubbing scenes in the country. Check the local street press for an up-to-date guide.

If you want to get away from it all, head to one of Victoria’s most isolated parks. It also just happens to be the most spectacular.

WIPE OUT IN BELLS BEACH

Every autumn, laughter comes to Melbourne in the form of the comedy festival. Comedians from around the world converge here to tickle your funny bone.

SPEED AROUND LUNA PARK

Snow bunnies should feel right at home in Victoria, as there’s plenty of skiing, snowboarding and all manner of other ways to break a few limbs. The most popular skifields are Mt Buller, Mt Hotham and Falls Creek.

Bells is one of the best surfing beaches on the Victorian coast, famously named but not used in Point Break. Only for the experienced.

THE MELBOURNE COMEDY FESTIVAL

CRUISE THE MURRAY The Mississippi of the Antipodes, the Murray River winds majestically through NSW, Victoria and South Australia, and there’s no better way to see it than from the deck of a paddle steamer.

DIVING IN PORT PHILLIP BAY Get dressed up in black rubber and jump into the waters of Port Phillip Bay for a close encounter with some wildlife and a shipwreck.

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The TNT Golden Backpack Awards recognise those companies who make backpacking around Australia and New Zealand that extra bit special. FZr[^ rhn lmZr^] bg Z _ZgmZlmb\ ahlmê rhn ee gô^k _hk`^m% hk p^gm hg a trip with the best tour guide Down Under. Mabl bl rhnk \aZg\^ mh ohm^ _hk rhnk _Zohnkbm^l' :g] pah dghpl% rhn fbàm ô^g [^\hf^ Z pbgg^k rhnklê_' Ohm^ Zg] rhn ee ZnmhfZmb\Zeer [^ ^gm^k^] bgmh hnk ikbs^ ]kZp _hk Z \aZg\^ mh PBG *))) h_ ?K>> Ă&#x153;bàml# withTiger Airways. Voting closes on September *0ma +)*+% pbma ma^ pbgg^kl h_ ma^ @he]^g ;Z\diZ\dl Zgghng\^] bg Gho^f[^k' =hg m _hk`^m mh mêe rhnk fZm^l mh ohm^ mhh% lh ma^r \Zg Zelh aZo^ Z \aZg\^ mh pbg mabl _ZgmZlmb\ ikbs^' *Terms and conditions apply.

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STROLL ALONG ST KILDA

ESCAPE TO THE DANDENONGS

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

Melbourne’s favourite seaside suburb, the foreshore is the place to be seen. Take a stroll and enjoy the city and bay views, while you work off the beer and cakes.

Tired of the city? Well, the Dandenong Ranges are only 35km east of Melbourne. Its national parks and exotic trees make for a great bushwalking escape

Sydney may be bigger, but when it comes to shopping, Melbourne is queen. There are more young and up-coming designers here then you can poke a needle at. Head to Chapel St and give your credit card the shock of its life.

BUILD SANDCASTLES ON NINETY MILE BEACH The endless sandy beach, just past the NSW border, separates the lakes King, Victoria and Wellington from the ocean. It’s backed by dunes and lagoons and is a stunning place to explore.

PAN FOR GOLD IN SOVEREIGN HILL Not enough people dressed in Victorian-era clothes in your life? Get to this recreated gold-mining town – a living history museum – full of actors in period costume. Plus you can pan for gold.

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THE GRAMPIANS For a taste of the wilderness, head to the Grampians. There’s bushwalking, horse riding and rockclimbing, plus Aboriginal rock art sites and wildlife.

BAR CRAWL IN FITZROY If you want to be a part of Melbourne’s alternative crowd, take a bar-hop around the many pubs of this lively, cosmopolitan suburb. Brunswick and Smith Streets are the places to head for.

SEE THE WHALES IN WARRNAMBOOL

THE MELBOURNE COMEDY FESTIVAL

This seaside town is most famous for its whale watching. Head to Logan Beach between May and October for a bird’s eye view.

Every autumn, comedians from around the world converge here to tickle your funny bone.

INDULGE IN ACLAND ST CAKE SHOPS

If bushwalking isn’t your thing but you still want to explore the Dandenongs, take a ride on this restored steam engine. It makes its way through fern gullies and forested hills, and you can even hang your legs out of the window. Woo-hoo!

A walk along this St Kilda street is torture for a dieter. There’s a seemingly neverending stream of bakers and patisseries with windows. Naughty but very nice

PUFFING BILLY

LAST YEAR’S VICTORIAN WINNERS... Bes hostel: Habitat Best Bes HQ, Melbourne HQ Best Be es backpacker night: Red Eye Bar, Base ni ig

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CHATROOM

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Sundance Ash Gale, frontman of the band formerly known as Sundance Kids takes time to chat about the new name, Temper Trap comparisons, and embarrassing record collections... INTERVIEW ALEX HARMON

“We wanted to increase font size on our posters”

So why the change of name from Sundance Kids to just Sundance? We decided for the future’s sake of the band it was best to shorten the name. Also we wanted to increase font size on tour posters. What can we expect from the second album? Our creativity and musicianship has evolved, so the songs have a lot more story and emotion to them. Also the songs are a lot more dynamic and rhythm based. Do you agree with the Temper Trap comparisons? Well Temper Trap were heavily compared to U2. And U2 have always been an influence of ours, so I guess there are similarities. We’ll take it as compliment as they are a great band. What do you think you’d you be doing if it didn’t work out? I’d write heavily produced auto tuned R‘n’B rap songs and give them to teenage reality TV show contestants.

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Who were your musical heroes when you were growing up? Any band or artist from the 90’s who was majorly influenced by 60’s and 70’s brit pop rock. Any embarrassing artists in your collection? “One Hell of a Dance Album: Best of 95” with artists like Real Mccoy, Melodic MC, The Grid and Dr Alban.

It’s quiet, great weather, great surf, great coffee. The most relaxing place I have ever experienced. What are your tips for Adelaide? Wine tasting and great white shark cage tours in Port Lincoln. There has been talk of South Australia changing its name, any suggestions? How about…AC/DC?

What do you do when you’re not being a musician? Drinking with mates in pubs, or just hanging out with a guitar.

Three albums you’d take with you on a deserted island? Led Zeppelin: 3. Oasis: What’s the Story Morning Glory, and U2: Best Of.

The ultimate gig, anywhere in the world would be? Glastonbury.

Three things you can’t travel without? An iPhone, good coffee, and a guitar.

Best thing about being in a band? Playing shows and sleeping in. Favourite holiday spot in Oz? South Golden Beach, just north of Byron Bay.

Planes, trains or automobile, and why? We like trains, but only if we have our own VIP carriage with lots of fun things happening inside. Sundance’s new track, Where She Wants Me, is out now through Warner Music. thesundancekids.com

FILMREVIEW

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YOUR SISTER’S SISTER FILM review by Priyal Dadhania STARRING: Emily Blunt, Rosemarie DeWitt, Mark Duplass /M/ 90mins

BAIT 3D FILM preview STARRING: Xavier Samuel, Julian McMahon, Sharni Vinson, Alex Russell | M | 93mins

After a tsunami hits a small beach town a group of survivors find themselves trapped in a flooded underground supermarket and soon discover they are not alone – the tsunami has brought hungry great white sharks. It sounds like Jaws meets Clerks and with the 3D glasses, it’s going to be scary as hell. We are waiting with baited breath for this! Released September 20

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Like all good, slightly unconventional chick flicks, the plot line is guaranteed to contain oodles of sex and scandal. What’s different about this three person ensemble is that there’s nowhere to hide as secrets boil to the surface. The film opens at a wake where we first meet Jack (Mark Duplass) who is mourning the loss of his brother, and Iris (Emily Blunt) who we learn was the oncegirlfriend of the deceased. Iris sends Jack to a remote cabin where the majority of the film is set and we’re introduced to the third and final character, Iris’s half-sister, Hannah (Rosemarie DeWitt). Cue a night of drinking with high emotions, and it’s not hard to imagine where this film will head. Filmmaker Lynn Shelton strips away the complications of the real world by setting the film in the secluded woodlands. It is essentially a film that follows an emotional rollercoaster, telling the story of one character’s guilt and another’s pain. Screenshots of the woodland and the nearby lakes set the sombre tone of contemplation as the audience questions whether time will heal all. However, just as the story beings to come together and the audience is on the edge of their seats, the credits begin to roll. Disappointingly, the questions raised about the sister’s relationships are left unanswered. GOOD FOR: Four out of wedlock sex scenes and a funeral

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Changing the game Video game festival, Freeplay, is gearing up for another five days in Melbourne. We chat to the festival's director Paul Callaghan WORDS ALEX HARMON

We're all doing it when we’ve got five minutes to spare, it’s getting more and more popular every year, even Lana Del Ray is singing about it. Playing video games. And for five days in September, the city of Melbourne will host the biggest independent games festival in the country. “The aim of the festival is to connect with the artistic and creative side of game development,” says Freeplay Festival's director, Paul Callaghan. “There are lots of events that look at the consumer, and there are events that look at the business side, but there is very little looking at video games as art. Video games are cultural products and that is what the festival focuses on.” Freeplay is a five-day event held around Melbourne, including the State Library of Victoria and ACMI, that explores the intersection of the multiple artforms that influence and inspire games plus the technical side of games development, gaming culture and education. “There will be conference stuff for practitioners – this year we’ve got a developer program aimed specifically at people who want to make games and build a studio. But we’ve also got a public studio where people can come along and play local and independent games. It’s a big hodge-podge of games and ideas.” Naturally Callaghan comes from a gaming background. He is an independent game developer and has worked in the games industry since 1998 as a programmer, designer, writer, and teacher for companies as diverse as Atari, the ABC, and The Project Factory. With this experience, Callaghan introduced the Freeplay Awards, a competition where gamers are encouraged to submit their ideas to a panel of expert judges. “This year we had a record number of entries from Australia and around the world – over 100," says Callaghan. "We’re stoked. This is the third year, so every year it’s growing.” In fact, the festival itself is growing from humble beginnings in 2004. Callaghan took over the festival in 2009 as director. “It was with the arts organization Next Wave before that,

“

Everyone is a player, whether it be on iPhones or something else

”

and then we took it over in 2009 with a new venue – the State Library. That year we had over 600 people attend, which grew to 2,000 people last year," he explains. "We’re expecting a similar sort of growth this year." But how do you define gaming these days? From what I'm hearing it’s not just teenage boys with acne seeking escape from within the confines of their dark rooms. “Originally the festival was very video games-centric, even when we took it over in 2009. But we are always trying to open it up,” says Callaghan. Indeed, on Wednesday night as night falls on Melbourne, Federation Square will be filled people playing 'Spies by Night' an interactive game where 'spies' must accomplish a mission – and thwart the missions of others. “We think that there’s a lot that video game developers can learn and there’s an audience, which naturally overlaps. So this year we have some board games and the spy game that is part of our 'Playful Program'. "We also have a game called Johann Sebastian Joust which is kind of a digital folk game, it uses Playstation Move controllers in a really interesting way which is not strictly speaking a video game. We’re trying to expand the arena.” In 2010, the festival introduced a theme which ties the events and ideas together. Last year focused more on the craft of video games, rather than the art. “We were looking at things that were personal and not just the AAA games, you know, the shooty shooty bang bang games,” says Callaghan. This last description especially resonates to me. As a nongamer, all video games sound like this to me.

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Lemon jousting at Freeplay 2011 In 2010, the theme was “Players Everywhere” which sounds like it should have a double entendre, but as Callaghan explains, “was looking at video games and video games practice. And how everyone is player these days, whether it be on their iPhones or iPads or something else like a PS3.” As I am partial to a bit of Words with Friends on my iPhone, sometimes even a few games of Song Pop, I conclude that perhaps I am a gamer after all. This year’s theme is "Chaos and Grace", which sounds to me like a very arty approach to gaming. “We were conscious of two things,” explains Callaghan. “The way that the Australian video games landscape has changed and lots of studios have shrunk or disappeared, while at the same time, more people are making games, without wanting to build a studio around that process. "We were also really conscious of coming back to the art of it, even in all that chaotic activity. So we settled on this idea of chaos and grace," he explains. "Within times of turmoil, and the stories you hear of video games violence, people still find moments of beauty in that practice. It’s about finding moments of beauty in even the most violent of video games.” The debate over video games violence is something that has been played out in the media for years, and something that games developers seem to take in their stride. Like club owners in Sydney’s Kings Cross defending liquor laws, game developers know that it is simply part of the territory. “The public conflict between those who loudly worry about violence in games and those who loudly defend them is essential as it forces both to defend their position, to seek out research, to explore aspects of game development and design, and to consider, at some levels, their deeper responsibilities and interests as artists and audiences.” But does Callaghan, who develops games and has

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successfully directed Freeplay for three years, consider himself a gamer? “It’s interesting, I play games, but I don’t know whether I would consider myself a gamer. For me, it just fits into the rest of the cultural connection I have – I read books, I go to the cinema, I listen to music. So for me, playing games is just another part of that. I don’t treat it as an identity. Whereas lot of people can, and that’s totally fine. But for me it’s just something that is there.” As if I were asking him his favourite movie, he tells me about a game he has just finished called Papo & Yo on the PS3. His description of the game makes me realise just how far video games have come from my childhood experience with a 2D racing game on the Atari (which provided my brothers and I with hours of fun, I might add). “Papo & Yo is this phenomenally personal story about a character trying to deal with an alcoholic father. It’s incredible. It’s really emotional and metaphorical and allegorical.” And to think I was once impressed by a boxing game with a stick figure and some really high-tech grunting effects. “As I’ve gotten older I’ve become more interested in. Things that are pushing at the edges of the types of games that we can craft. Games like Journey on PS3 – that really impressed me too. It’s the smaller more personal games that I like these days.” But the fact remains, that if Callaghan has a spare 10 minutes, he’s just like the rest of us. “To be honest, when I pull out my iPhone on public transport, I probably just wander around Twitter." ❚ Freeplay 2012 is held over five days from 19 to 23 September in Melbourne. Events are on at the State Library of Victoria, and beyond. See: freeplay.net.au

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WIN

ARE YOU SPOTTED IN THE CIRCLE?

Email us at tom@ tntdownunder.com with ‘Spotted’ in the subject line, email must include a photo of yourself! Boom - You’ve won yourself a $100 bar tab at Scubar. Like us on facebook/ tntdownunder for more party pics from the night!

SCUBAR Crab Racing

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WINNER

WEEKLY WINNER TICKETS PLEASE: Michele Giebing, 21, Netherlands MICHELE SAYS: “I took this photo on the ferry from Cronulla to Bundeena on the New South Wales south coast.” WE SAY: “We adore the old-world feel to this shot. Cronulla is usually associated with bright blue sky and beaches, but there is something sinister about this shot, like it’s from a Hitchcock film. We love it.”

HOT TIPS: Shades of grey Tone is one of the most important elements in photography. Even when shooting in black and white, you must be aware of tones and contrast, as these are the cement that glues all the pieces together. Contrast is perhaps even more important when shooting black and white as the grey is doing all the work that colour would normally achieve. Remember to vary your tones, as this will help with texture. Visually, your eye will be drawn to the lightest tone first. Tonal range refers to the scope of tones between the lightest and darkest areas and this varies in each image depending on contrast – for example, on a grey day, the contrast is low and can become dull, whereas if it’s sunny, it will have high contrast.

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THE MONTHLY WINNER GETS THREE DAYS CAR HIRE FROM TRAVELLERS AUTOBARN

WIN

Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description to:editor@tntdownunder.com. Photos are judged by the TNT team at their own discretion. Weekly winner Michele wins a free night’s stay at the award-winning Sydney Central YHA (yha.com.au). The monthly winner gets three days’ car hire from Travellers Auto Barn. The runner-up wins a Great Barrier Reef snorkelling adventure and cruise with Awesome Adventures Oz (awesomeoz.com).

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ON THE ROAD WITH TRAVEL

TALK LEE THOMAS 30, UK

One giant leap for Coober Pedy

YOU ASKED FOR IT... WE ANSWER YOUR TRAVEL QUESTIONS

it worth going to Coober Pedy? Q IsPaula Francesca, France

is the best time to visit the High Q When Country in Victoria? Yuri Kader, India

from the outback pretty much A Rising halfway between Adelaide and Alice

the season, this dramatic alpine A Whatever landscape is packed full of snow fields,

Springs, there’s no denying that Coober really is in the middle of nowhere and, unless you’re heading north or south, you’re unlikely to see it. But if you’re taking the Stuart Highway, it makes for a very surreal and interesting stop. While much of the town, which mines most of the world’s opals, is in fact above ground, about half of the buildings, including bars, hostels and even churches, are dug down into the red earth to avoid the desert heat. It’s a strange place, no doubt, and well worth having a look around, stopping by Crocodile Harry’s, which was made famous by Mad Max 3. It’s rightly renowned for being multinational and very wild. This is a place where fortunes are still won and lost on a regular basis. Don’t leave town without a quick fossick yourself (as in digging for opals)... just be careful of the thousands of mine shafts that dot the area.

waterways and gold rush towns. In winter, the snow (mid-June onwards) brings skiers to the downhill runs, which are some of the best the state has to offer. In summer (from December) the same peaks, the southern tip of the Great Dividing Range, transform into a dream for bush walkers, horse-riders, 4WD enthusiasts and campers. A few hours drive north-east from Melbourne, it’s a great spot to spend a few nights escaping the hustle and bustle of the summer months. And keen fishermen take note – this area is home to the largest trout in Australia so be sure to pack your fishing rod. If flowers are more your thing, then head here in spring to witness the amazing wildflowers in bloom. And no matter what the season, if you’re interested in seeing the place where Ned Kelly killed three policemen – the crime for which he was later hanged – check out Mansfield.

A bit of a party hostel, over the weekends, everyone is up for a good time drinking till the am. Freebees include daily breakfast, daily internet, boogie boards, flippers, and beach toys. OVERVIEW

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YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE? Tough one but for me it was Manly (Sydney) in September 2007. The Rugby World Cup was on and the hostel I was in was awesome. Great six weeks there. CRAZIEST EXPERIENCE? Definitely the experience of working on the cattle station, I couldn’t buy that experience. MET ANY AUSSIE ANIMALS? The usual wildlife that lives in hostels, saw few brown snakes and some sharks while snorkelling. WHAT’S ON THE WISHLIST? Tasmania – I’ve heard it’s amazing. BIGGEST SURPRISE? The cost of living is quite high. And I found out Australians are bad winners and losers at sport! MOST OVER-RATED PLACE? Surfers Paradise.

CHECKING IN BONDI BACKPACKERS

WHY DID YOU COME TO AUSTRALIA? I was 29 and didn’t want to miss out on doing the working holiday visa. I still think that coming to Australia is one of the best things I’ve ever done.

It’s one of the few hostels to actually provide single rooms, in the winter months they’re available for $200 a week but in the summer the prices soar. BILL PLEASE 4 bed dorms are $25p/n off peak and on peak for $38. ROOMS

110 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach bondibackpackers.com.au

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GOING SOLO

Even 50ºC heat and ball-biting creatures couldn’t stop Louis-Philippe Loncke from trekking in the outback... I woke up with the harsh Northern Territory sun shining on my face. It was mid-October and I was about to enter the Nitmiluk National Park, near Katherine. I went to the visitor’s centre to register for the Jatbula Trail – a 66km track from the stunning Katherine Gorge to Edith Falls. I had already completed a number of bushwalking tracks in Australia so I thought I could do this one in two days, but the receptionist told me the hike takes a minimum of four days because it’s remote, dangerous, and the temperature can rise to 50ºC in the shade. She told me to go to the ranger’s office. The ranger was a big, tall Germaniclooking woman who I will call “Greta”. Greta started arguing with me immediately: “People have died on this track,” she said. “It’s the warmest

period of the year, and you tell us you want to do the track in two days when people usually complete it in four days? Are you mad? You can do it in three days and two nights, or you don’t go at all. Now on the track there are ECDs – Emergency Control Devices. We want you to call us each time you reach one.” “Okay, I‘ll grab another can of spaghetti.” I started the walk at 9am and indeed, I had never felt so hot in my entire life. It was 50ºC in the shade in the early afternoon. Hundreds of flies buzzed around me. I couldn’t escape from them, even after I ran for 200 metres they were soon back. Each step meant a drop of salty sweat and I was drinking around 12 litres of water per day. Around noon I found the first campsite and ECD. I did my job properly and the ranger told me to go and stop for the day at the next ECD located at a river stream. There I pitched my tent in the shade,

waiting for the temperature to drop. On the second day I woke up at 6am and left camp at 6.30am. I soon reached the highlight of the track, an Aboriginal art site known as The Amphitheater and took a small break. I reached the third ECD at noon and the ranger told me to stop for the day, which made me angry as I would have to deal with the heat and the flies. The only way to escape was to dip myself into the dirty pond. The water was warm and full of little fish biting on my legs. Suddenly a bigger fish bit me quite painfully – it felt like removing hair with tweezers. It took me an hour to get them off: they weren’t fish, they were little shrimps biting me in the legs, arms and some managed to enter my underwear and bite my balls. I got out of this hell at 7pm when the sun went down. But then I had to fight with the ants that were carrying the cheese out of my backpack. The next morning I woke up early and finished the walk at 11am. By that stage I hadn’t seen any people for 50 hours, so when I saw some tourists I shouted: “Humans!” They looked at me like I was crazy. I still had to reach my car by hitching out of Edith Falls. It took me an hour, then my friend Jason picked me up. He invited me for supper after I told him my adventures. He said that the outback is full strange characters. I guess I had become one of them.

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UNLEASH THE ADVENTURE! WIN A $2,000 KAKADU OR ULURU TRIP FOR TWO To celebrate our special Northern Territory month in which we will be exploring the various attractions of this stunning section of Australia, we’re giving our readers the chance to win a couple of epic tours. TNT has teamed up with Adventure Tours Australia and Mulgas Adventures to offer you a Northern Territory prize of a lifetime. Kakadu and Uluru are both boxes you need to tick off on your NT wish list. And with these tours you’ll be able to get snap happy while experienced guides make sure the NT’s (rather snap-happy residents themselves) are kept at bay. So if you’ve burnt a hole in your wallet (and your liver) in Darwin’s pubs and you’re looking for some adventure

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that isn’t on Mitchell Street, we’re here to rescue you. We’re offering two lucky readers and a friend the following prize: GRAND PRIZE WIN a 3 day 4wd Kakadu and Litchfield trip for 2 from Adventure Tours. This prize includes: Three day touring with an experienced guide. Two nights bush camping. Cruise the Mary River, r discover ancient rock art at Ubirr, take a relaxing swim at Maguk (Barramundi Gorge), see the famous Twin and Jim Jim falls, and visit the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre.Accommodation transfers. Quality meals.Crocodile wrestling is optional!. Total value $1,175. RUNNER UP PRIZE WIN a 3 day Mulgas adventure Uluru Tour for 2, plus 2 nights dorm accommodation at Annie’s place.

This prize includes: Visit to Kings Canyon for one of the most stunning walks along the North & South walls. Swim in the majestic Garden of Eden. Overnight bush camp cook up feast Curtain Springs. Hiking through the Valley of the Winds at Kata Tjuta. Uluru base walk and a visit to the cultural centre. Total value $780. Terms & conditions apply. Visit tntdownunder.com for all entry details.

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31/08/12 10:11 AM

Mission Beach QUEENSLAND

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Chilling to the extreme The underrated town of Mission Beach has equal measures of action and relaxation, even if the locals are slightly off balance WORDS ALEX HARMON

Photos: Tourism Queensland, Charmaine Blanche, Alex Harmon

“We’re making a raft out of goon bags I’m about to step into a raft with a bunch of WHAT TO DO: Jump to sail to Dunk Island,” the lads I’ve just strangers (luckily this raft is made from stronger with Skydive Mission Beach met at Scotty’s Beach House in Mission material than goon film). And when I say step (skydivemissionbeach.com. Beach tell me. I wonder how long that will in, I make it sound elementary. An Irish girl au) from $349. Full day take.“About an hour,” they smile. “That’s in front of me alights the raft, but misjudges whitewater rafting with Raging if it doesn’t sink. Although we’ll make lifeher footing and falls head first into the river Thunder (ragingthunder.com. jackets out of the goon bags too,” they add. au) costs from $215. 90min and is sucked under the raft. She comes up I was actually asking how long it will take to jet ski tour with Calypso Dive gasping for air and screaming for help. A rope stockpile the bags of goon to make the raft. is thrown to her and she’s pulled back to shore. (calypsoadventures.com.au) (Goon, for the uninitiated is cheap, boxed She’s hysterical and has lost a sandal. She is costs $224. wine. It tastes of piss and fruit juice, and is eventually helped into the raft by our guide WHERE TO STAY: a staple on any backpackers diet.) “Oh how who assures her we’ll find the sandal, (which Beds at Absolute Backpackers long will it take to collect the goon bags?” looks like a Croc with straps) floating along the (absolutebackpackers.com.au) the lad realises. “Yeah, about an hour from $23 a night. Beds at Scotty’s river at some point. She’s more worried that around here,” the other lad quips. Beach House (scottysbeachhouse. she’s lost her dignity before we’ve even begun. There’s something a little askew about I nervously step into the raft with seven com.au) cost from $24 a night. Mission Beach locals. They have immense others and meet our guide Callum, a tanned pride in their little town on the Cassowary young guy with a pony-tail and an adventurous Coast in far north Queensland. But they also have this slightly grin on his face. We find out later he’s a professional kayaker mad wiring in their bodies. Perhaps it’s from too much sun and and all-round nice guy. Well, that is until he takes us down living the simple life. Or perhaps it’s from enduring one of the the first drop, named ‘Alarm Clock’ (seriously, no one likes an worst cyclones in history in 2011. alarm clock) and steers the raft toward a boulder, crashes and Cyclone Yasi, a category 5, ripped through the town in falls overboard into the rapids. The term “fall” is debatable February last year causing extensive damage to roads, wildlife, according to the other guides who witness the spectacle. “He property and morale. The storm caused an estimated 3.6 abandoned ship,” they call out. Abandoning ship is the worst billion dollars in damage, and 18 months on, the town still thing a guide can do, I find out. Those guilty must buy two wears the devastation on its sleeve. jugs of beer for the other guides. “It’s a universal rule,” says However, Mission Beach people are resilient and strong, slowly rebuilding and banding together as a community to Dunk Island: still beautiful support one another. Understandably, the cyclone is never far from their minds, just about everyone you meet in the town has a story and a photo on their phone to show me. And if you look deep enough – a sad glimmer in their eyes.

Don’t abandon ship The next day I was to experience wild Mother Nature for myself on the Tully River, 45 minutes inland from Mission Beach. The team at Raging Thunder get me kitted up and

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the dismayed Callum, who has managed to quickly swim back to the raft. We reach a lull in the river and jump into the cool water and float along. It’s a chilly 16C and the cloud-covered

“

We almost lose our shit in the mine field

”

mountains are blocking the nurturing sun, but with adrenalin pumping through our veins and a comforting life jacket, it’s a peaceful and enjoyable few moments. Of course, this is the calm before the storm. Back in the raft and paddling hard, we veer towards vertical drops like the ‘Corkscrew’, which literally twists our raft and folds it in half. It’s terrifying, like being stuck in a hideaway wall bed in a bachelor apartment. Miraculously we all stay on the raft, the rope burns on our hands an attest to our strength. I feel very proud of myself until I realise I have knocked the young Asian girl behind me in the head with my paddle. Following a riverside BBQ lunch we cruise down to ‘Disappearing Falls’, do some rock jumping, traverse down ‘Jabba The Hut’ and almost lose our shit in the ‘Mine Field’. After five hours of terror we make it to the end with aching arms, absolutely drenched, shaking but beaming with delight. The Irish girl never does find her Croc.

Jet ski bunny “You’re a wild woman,” says Andy, my new jet skiing buddy I meet the following day. He doesn’t realise that I’m holding onto the jet ski for dear life, and this is, in turn, making the vehicle go a hell of a lot faster. Whose idea was it to put the accelerator on the handle bars? It was meant to be a cruisy 90 minute tour around Dunk Island, but I was turning it into a wild adventure on the high seas. At one point Andy stops me and retrieves a rope from the boot so he doesn’t go flying into the air. There’s something liberating about jet skiing, it’s like being on a motorbike on the wide, open highway. Riding on the ocean, the waves become natural speed bumps where I’m able to get great air (and soaking wet). But exhilaration soon turns to sorrow as we reach the other side of the island and see the dilapidated Dunk Island Resort. The beachfront apartments have been peeled apart by the cyclone, many of them missing walls, and the resort’s iconic pool is drained and filled with branches and palm tree leaves. The local water taxi, which used to take around 60 people a day to the island, now takes only a few people per week and has been forced to offer tours around the islands to make ends meet. We pause for a few moments to take it all in, and it’s then we see a turtle swim past, it seems to be going rather slow – even for a turtle – then we notice the turtle is missing an arm. “Probably bitten by a reef shark,” says Andy as the turtle continues to push on. Further proof that Mission Beach residents are resilient.

The captain must go down with the ship

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29/08/12 9:05 PM

Des (AKA Super Ted) dropping in on Mission

Sinking into a skydive Later that night I’m in a bar with an old QC, an ex-base jumper and a young hostel bus driver. No, this isn’t the start of a bad joke. We’re drinking beers, discussing politics and getting stuck into some delicious steak. One of the bar’s regulars walks in, “Give me a drink, I just back from Brisbane where I won a rape case,” he booms. Noticing the look of shock on my face, the regulars are quick to assure me this man is in fact a lawyer. Just a regular night in Mission Beach, they tell me. These eccentric locals would make delicious characters on a TV series. We turn the conversation to skydiving, the next adventure Mission has in store for me. “I remember when they used to offer free skydives for girls who’d go topless,” one of the regulars tells me. “But they had to give it up because it was too popular,” he laughs. Although it isn’t my first skydive, fear is beginning to set in. I am sitting with Des, the professional skydiver who, tomorrow will coax me out of the plane at 14,000ft. He looks like a tank but has the demeanour of a cuddly teddy bear. “You’re going to love it, it’s even better the second time.” He has done over 18,000 skydives, I wonder if he can even remember the second jump. Come to think of it, I believe the second time around is actually harder. Fear of the unknown is quite comforting. That night at Absolute Backpackers – which just happens to be the friendliest and most relaxing hostel I’ve ever stayed in – I sleep nervously. Go figure. The next morning we’re flying over Tully’s banana fields and just as I think to myself, this is quite high, Des turns to me: “1,000ft, only 13,000ft to go.” I gulp, becoming very quiet and fumble about with my protective plastic glasses. I

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can’t get them on, I panic. “Plenty of time, just relax,” says Des, grinning with excitement. This is his office and this skydive is as routine to him as making a cup of coffee. I hope he’s a good coffee maker, I think as he pushes me towards the open hatch. Within seconds I am dropping through the sky, falling at 220km/hr towards Mission Beach. I scream, while trying to breathe, and while secretly trying to make sure I’m smiling for the camera that’s in my face. And then, after 60 seconds (which feels like micro-seconds) the parachute goes up and I’m floating above the reef. The sun is on my face, I have the taste of clouds in my mouth and we slowly reach the ground, just metres from the water with the sand beneath our feet. The second time is so much better, I yell.

Birds of paradise There’s a madness to Mission Beach but it’s wrapped up in a protective blanket, like a bear hug from Des the skydiver. After a long weekend of adrenalin pumping fun, the only thing I was missing was an encounter with a cassowary – the flightless bird threatened with extinction. As I am being driven out of Mission Beach towards Cairns Airport, we spot one on the side of the road. Slamming on the brakes to get a close look, I realise just how threatening they appear. Their big black feathers, red droopy necks and small beady eyes – they give me the creeps. Keep driving, I say. Although the infamous sign that used to greet tourists on the Bruce Highway is gone, (it read: “Get high, get wet, get laid at Mission Beach”) the feeling is still there. For a sleepy town, it sure wears you out. On the plane I rest my head on my blow-up pillow out and have the best sleep I’ve had all weekend, imaging myself lying on a goon raft, sailing out to my new-found paradise. ❚

Looking for a fun place to chill? You’ve found it. Shhh…a resort disguised as a hostel. Absolute Backpackers Mission Beach is just a few minutes walk from Queensland’s best beach, shops and pub. s Swimming pool, spa, sun lounges, day bed s Pool table s FREE BBQ every Saturday s Completely renovated rooms s RAFTING, SKYDIVING and GREAT BARRIER REEF tours

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Rickshaw Run INDIA

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The ride of your life Fancy driving 3000km across the ragged roads of India on a glorified lawnmower? Here’s what happens if you say ‘yes’ ... WORDS CANDACE ROSE RARDON

There’s a knot of fear deep in my chest as WHEN TO GO: The next around its cities. Our destination? Jaisalmer, an I grip the handlebars of my auto-rickshaw; Rickshaw Run sets off on ancient, sandy-coloured fort city tucked away that, and a healthy dose of you-must-beSeptember 9. Test-driving and on the western edge crazy disbelief. It’s the first day of testof Rajasthan’s Thar Desert, a mere 3000km pimping sessions take place away. driving for the Rickshaw Run, a two-week September 5-7, with the launch journey spanning nearly the entire Indian party kicking things off on Days 1-3: The Only Way Is Down subcontinent, and I’m way beyond having September 8. second thoughts. Sitting behind me, my CURRENCY: $1 = INR57 After three days of test-driving and a raucous teammate, Citlalli, doesn’t look much (Indian Rupees) launch party to kick the whole thing off, it’s more confident. REGISTERING: You can sign time to hit the road – specifically the 1500m “Come on, it’s just like driving a up now for the April 2013 edition descent awaiting us. We meet at the ‘pimping motorcycle,” says Matt, chief of the grounds’ for a final time, the smell of petrol, of the Rickshaw Run, or join the Rickshaw Run, who’s giving us a few wet paint and panic in the air. The muddy field waiting list for an earlier edition. pointers. I assume he meant that to be is a beehive of activity, teams swarming, buzzing Places are limited to 70, otherwise reassuring, but I’ve never driven about to put the finishing touches on their tukThe Adventurists run out of a motorcycle before, let alone any vehicle rickshaws. The entry fee is $2126per tuks: neon-coloured horns, stereo systems, even with manual transmission. custom-made seat cushions. team. More on the website. The Rickshaw Run is the brainchild of Matt walks around, clipboard in hand, the SEE: theadventurists.com The Adventurists, a Bristol-based travel cheeky grin on his face saying: “You all company that tempts thrill-seeking (and have no idea what’s about to hit you.” perhaps foolhardy) folks to join them in “fighting to make Indeed; the streets out of Shillong are the world less boring”. One of seven adventures offered by not only clogged with 70-odd brightly painted rickshaws, but the outfit, the Rickshaw Run takes place three times a year torrential downpours, too. Dips in the road swiftly become in India, rotating its start and end points between Shillong, rivers, then fords, and a continual sheet of water pounds Jaisalmer and Fort Kochi. While no one has yet died on the us, which, naturally, goes well with our broken windscreen Run, the risks of traversing potholed, truck-heavy roads in a wiper. At least our hazard lights insist on flashing at all times 145.45cc-engine vehicle are very real. The Adventurists warn: “Your chances of being seriously injured or dying as a result of taking part are high.” Spiffing. As Matt yells out instructions, I fumble for the clutch, then the brake, then the throttle, and at all times our rickshaw jerks forward like a newborn colt trying to find its legs. If I can barely make it out of the practice track without stalling, I can’t help musing on how I plan to get to the finish line. Here in Shillong, an old hill station located in the far northeast corner of India, it’s nigh on impossible to wrap my head around the trip to come. The distance we’re to cover is the same as that from London to Moscow, and yet we’ll be enduring it in a vehicle the rest of Asia uses for short jaunts

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‘Which way to Rajasthan?’ The Run follows an ‘unroute’, you make it up

– it’s probably for the best. But when I don’t have my head out the rickshaw, helping Citlalli navigate the obstacle course that is the Indian highway, I’m able to take in the scene around us. The name for this particular state, Meghalaya, literally means “the abode of clouds” in Sanskrit, and it’s little wonder why. Wispy puffs of white rest over the region’s many rolling hills, their jungled slopes covered with verdant undergrowth and trees. Occasionally, we spot a river winding through the countryside, with a calm that belies the chaos around us. This corner of India, known as ‘The Seven Sisters’, after the number of states packed into the tiny area, was only opened to tourism a few years ago; due to ethnic violence and unrest,

“

Your chances of injury or death are high

”

you needed an entry permit previously. Even today, the lack of tourists lends an air of remoteness to the region that makes it feel as if you’re the first to explore it. By day’s end, we’ve only managed to cover 110km; thankfully we’ll go 210 the next day, and 270 the day after, bringing us to Siliguri, a city right on the cusp of where the northeast meets mainland India. Our expectations of distance quickly adjust; while the rickshaws can be driven up to 50km/hour, in reality we average about 30 – thanks to the rutted roads, way too many chai breaks, and, of course, inevitable breakdowns. 38

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Days 4-6: Beat It, Bihar On the morning of our fourth day, we wake early, nervous for what’s ahead. We’re planning to cross from West Bengal into Bihar, one of the poorest and most undeveloped states in India; worse yet, we were warned in Shillong against rumours of bandits and robbers here, told to: “Make friends” and “Don’t go through Bihar alone.” Entering the eastern state with three other teams, we’re collectively holding our breath, waiting for the worst to hit. Gone are the steamy hills of Meghalaya; in their place, the land grows so flat that many areas are flooded, our route less of a road than a strip of land bordered on both sides by water. In other places, bright-green fields of corn and banana trees stretch out to the horizon. Water buffalo submerge themselves in the river to stay cool, their black hides gleaming under the noon sun. As beads of sweat trace a constant path down my forehead, I’m only slightly jealous. Although no bandits ever come our way, Bihar still seems set to deter us: there’s a dangerous night drive on dark, narrow roads straight out of a Hitchcock film, followed by a 30km traffic jam the next morning. The curious locals make it all worth it, however, our conversations with them might not have happened were we not rattling across their country in a rickshaw. As we near the dusty town of Ara, our last stop in Bihar before Uttar Pradesh – India’s largest state by population and famous for sights such as the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri – two teenage boys ride up next to us on their motorcycle, the wind ruffling their silky black hair. “Do you want to ride?” the boy on the back calls out. Citlalli is driving, and I give her a look in one of our side mirrors. “Maybe,” she banters back playfully. “Do you speak Hindi?” they ask, their voices raised

above the relentless din of bus horns, lorry motors, and the bleating of cows. I answer this time, leaning my head around the rickshaw. “No. We don’t.” “Then how do you survive here?” My eyes meet Citlalli’s again. It is an excellent question.

Colour and culture: scenes from the Rickshaw Run

Days 7-8: Lost in the Holy City Matt issued us with an important warning: “Don’t drive at night.” Never mind that our headlight only emits a faint glow, but the roads themselves are rarely lit, and objects – whether a lorry, cow, stray dog or person – can suddenly appear right in front of you. But as night falls on our seventh day on the road, we’re nowhere near our destination: the holy city of Varanasi. We have no choice but to continue; after all, we survived our night drive in Bihar a few days earlier. But this time, there’s another element to contend with – a monsoon-like rainstorm that has us recalling our initial drenched descent from Shillong. Citlalli takes the wheel while a guy from another team and I sit in the back, our heads comically poking out each side of the rickshaw. We still haven’t bothered to have our windscreen wiper fixed, and so we’re forced to help Citlalli steer through the darkness. “Cow!” we shout into the wind. “Bicycle! Truck! Child!” I’m wearing a raincoat, and yet it makes little difference – the rain pelts me as strongly as if someone were spraying a garden hose in my face. My clothes, usually pungent with sweat, grease, and oil, are now also sopping wet. But battling the flooded back streets into Varanasi is worth every moment we almost tipped over – we have our first day off in the city, and celebrate having reached the halfway point of our trip. Besides giving our rickshaws a rest and catching up on laundry – which the guesthouse hangs along the street to dry, much to our humiliation – we explore all that we can of India’s religious capital, waking early for a sunrise boat ride along the sacred Ganges River and attending a Ganga Aarti ceremony that evening performed by seven priests. This particular ritual involves a series of fire offerings dedicated to the Goddess Ganga – or Mother Ganga, as she is also known. As billows of pungent, smoky incense waft into the air, I can’t help giving thanks for the 1500km we’ve covered so far. Days 9-12: Racing Through Rajasthan The next 1500km pass in a blur. Our route leads us from Varanasi to Agra, where we park our rickshaws and sprint to the Taj Mahal before sunset, and then to the northwestern state of Rajasthan, India’s largest. Meaning ‘The Land of Kings,’ Rajasthan is arguably best known for its fort cities and their beautiful maharaja palaces – the Pink City of Jaipur, the Blue City of Jodhpur, and finally, the Golden City of Jaisalmer. We share the road into Jaisalmer with herds of bowlegged camels, savouring every last mile before the finish line. Once again I’m filled with disbelief, just as I was 12 days ago in Shillong – this time, though, it is disbelief that we’ve actually made it. Matt is waiting for us when we rattle to a stop for the last time. “You look like you’ve had an adventure,” he says as we walk up to him. And from the grease stains on our T-shirts to the layers of dust and grime coating our rickshaws, we certainly have.❚

Finding skunk fish

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Mystery: WheelClampMan

POWER TO THE WHEEL CLAMPED PEOPLE AUSTRALIA

A vigilante hero has taken to the streets of Perth to free angry motorists from wheel clamps with his trusty angle grinder. Wearing skin-tight green Lycra, a green hardhat, rainbow striped socks, and cape accessories, the mystery hero, known as Wheel Clamp Man, removes the clamps illegally for vexed residents. He said: “I’m helping people out. I don’t feel I’m damaging property. The amount of money these companies make off innocent people is insane.” In return for his services, the mystery man asks for a small donation, which he donates to a local homeless charity.

OLD ‘WITCH’ CLAIMS TO HAVE NED’S HEADR NEW ZEALAND

A pensioner says she has Ned Kelly’s skull, one of Australia’s most soughtafter relics. Anna Hoffman, 74, said she was given the skull 30 years ago while on holiday in Melbourne by a security guard who told her it was “Ned’s head”. The discovery has raised the interest of the Victorian Institute of Forensic Medicine, which matched Kelly’s remains to the DNA of a surviving relative. Hoffman, who courted notoriety as a witch in the Sixties, said she was given the skull by a mysterious uniformed man at a family dinner in 1980. “We got talking about skulls and the

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Chilling out: polar bear Nelson is seen with the latest must-read book at at Sea World on the Gold Coast. Keepers are working hard to encourage breeding, including creating the book Fifty Shades Of White and making romantic poolside meals of sardines next day he turned up with this skull. He said it was Ned Kelly’s skull, and told me to ‘put it in the bottom of your bag and wrap it up’.” Hoffman said it is one of more than 20 skulls in her collection. Kelly, an Australian bushranger, was hanged in 1880 for killing three police officers, but the location of his remains had been a mystery until last year. Scientists identified his bones through DNA testing of 12 skeletons exhumed from Melbourne’s Pentridge Prison site.

MAN GETS RUN OVER MONKEYING AROUND UNITED STATES

It was a gag that backfired. Randy Lee Tenley was dressed up as Bigfoot trying to fool motorists when he

was knocked down by a car.Tenley, 44, was skulking around in a ghillie suit, a camouflage outfoot worn by hunters, when he was hit in Montana. After a car driven by 15-year-old girl hit him, a second car ran over him. “The camouflage suit was dark and subdued. It’s designed to break up a silhouette and blend in with your surroundings,”Highway Patrol trooper Jim m Schneider said.

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THIS WEEK

IN NUMBERS 33

Depth, in feet, of hole a retired couple from Plymouth found in their home after spotting a bump in the floor

Number of hours a search party spent looking for a woman in Iceland who had unwittingly joined the search party ...

Cannabis: just say no, kids

YOUNG STONERS ARE STUPID, SAYS STUDY

NEW ZEALAND

Smoking cannabis permanently affects the IQ of under 18s, a study carried out in New Zealand has revealed. More than 1,000 people were monitored from birth to the age of 38, for research carried out in Dunedin. The study showed those who had been habitual cannabis smokers in their youth experienced a drop of eight points on average in their IQ between ages 13 and 38. Those who started toking after 18 didn’t show the same decline in IQ. Researcher Avshalom Caspi said: “The simple message is that substance use is not healthy for kids. That’s true for tobacco, alcohol, and apparently for cannabis.”

BUS DRIVER FINED WHILE STATIONARY

Photos: Getty Images

AUSTRALIA

An Aussie bus driver was hit with a fine, despite being parked at a bus stop when caught on camera. Jeffrey Lambe, 65, was asked to pay AU$431 for driving 70km/h on a 50km/h road when he was actually picking up passengers at a stop in the Adelaide suburb Tranmere, Adelaide Now writes. Mr Lambe said: “My first reaction was I wouldn’t have been driving a bus with passengers at that speed because it’s way too dangerous.” However, the Transport Department’s footage shows the bus had its brake lights

Time, in months, escaped prisoner Brendan Ryan spent on the run – living with his mum in Wolverhampton

Cost to take pampered pooches on board a new service offered by private jet charter company Victor from the UK

1250

Travelling at the speed of a parked bus and indicator on. “How could someone issue a fine based on this picture?” Lambe added, after his penalty was overturned.

QUOTE OF THE WEEK

RACIST JOB ADVERT SPARKS OUTRAGE AUSTRALIA

A shopping centre advert banning “Indians and Asians” from applying has caused outrage. The online advert seeking cleaners for the mall in Hobart read: “Store requires no Indians or Asians please. MUST SPEAK ENGLISH.” The ad was later removed from the site after people posted outraged comments on social media sites. A Coles supermarket spokesman admitted the advert was posted by a contract company used to clean its store in Rosny, Hobart. A spokesman told The Mercury: “The ad was placed without Coles’ knowledge and we were extremely concerned to learn of the ad and its contents.”

Apparently the Saudi Arabian Paralympic y team is mainly thieves So-called comedian Frankie Boyle cracks a ‘joke’ on Twitter. Stop it. Our sides are hurting

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OUR VIEW

Inspirational: the Opening Ceremony

Real Games legacy must come from the Paralympics Will 2012 events shift how disabled people are treated, asks Carol Driver

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While the rest of the globe was getting involved in the incredible achievements of the Paralympians, the fashion world was, of course, going off in its own bizarre direction. In a statement you’d expect to have heard back in the Stepford Wives era of the Fifties, designer Achilleas Constantinou parted with some of the wisdom he has no doubt picked up around the catwalk over the years. Slamming really skinny models, he said: “Women should be slim for their men – but not size zero. An ideal weight is

Harping back to the Stepford Wives Fifties

“

”

the goal. An ideal weight for health and an ideal weight to appease your partner.” Yes, that’s right, ladies. You must be slim to please your men. Heaven forbid you want take care of your body just for yourself. Or that you find a partner who likes you (Bridget Jones-style) just as you are, which, looking at Constantinou, is obviously the method he lives by.

Photos: Getty Images

Twitter was rife with activity during the Paralympics Opening Ceremony: presenter Jon Snow’s suit was too white; there were *gasp* advert breaks; and there was too much political commentary. But, what stuck out was the outpouring of emotion over the athletes’ stories; their overcoming of unimaginable adversity to achieve what most able-bodied people would struggle to even attempt. It was as though many (admittedly, I’m basing this on Twitter) people had never been into contact with a disabled person. But then it occurred to me – this is entirely plausible. Before the Paralympics, the disabled – thanks to the government mantra that benefit cheats are the new scum of the earth – were considered potential leeches on society. “Because he thought I was fake, he’s called me a spacker, a cripple ... a benefit cheat ... a scrounger,” said multiple sclerosis sufferer Peter Greener, on the Don’t Hate Us feature on ITV’s London Tonight. Greener was subjected to a three-month campaign of abuse after a neighbour suspected he was faking his symptoms to claim cash from the government. And Greener isn’t alone. There were an estimated 65,000 disability hate crimes in the UK in 2011, with attitudes towards the disabled worsening over the past year. So that’s hate crimes against people just like the inspirational athletes rightfully receiving huge amounts of adulation as they complete in the Games. Shocking, isn’t it? Sod the Olympics legacy (who cares how the Stadium is used in years to come?), the important heritage from these weeks of sports will come from the Paralympics. There needs to be a shift towards a more inclusive society, where disabled people are seen for what they are – people – rather than just as vulnerable or different. Co-artistic director of the Opening Ceremony Jenny Sealey said: “I want people to see a great show and say: ‘Bloody hell, I never knew there were so many disabled people.’ This is our chance not to be hidden any more.” Mission accomplished? Let’s hope so.

LADIES, PLEASE YOURSELVES

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SHEEDY BACK FOR ANOTHER YEAR AFL

Greater Western Sydney have kept their coaching dream team of Kevin Sheedy (above) and Mark Williams intact for 2013. And with the AFL’s newest club having largely exceeded expectations in their debut season, 64-year-old Sheedy has not ruled out the prospect of remaining in the top job even longer. Giants chief executive David Matthews said it had been a unanimous decision to reappoint the four-time Essendon premiership coach for another year, with Williams – who coached Port Adelaide to their only AFL flag in 2004 – also staying put as his senior assistant. “There’s no bigger figure in Australian football than Kevin Sheedy,” Matthews said. “He’s a great figure with great values, an icon of the game and a visionary.”

FANNING FINALLY WINS AT TEAHUPO’O SURFING

World surfing championship leader Mick Fanning staged a remarkable come-from-behind performance to defeat fellow Australian Joel Parkinson in the final of the Billabong Pro in Teahupo’o Tahiti. It’s the second time Fanning has pulled out a clutch performance in a final this year. The 31-year-old held his nerve to overcome a perfect 10 from Slater at Bells Beach in April to clinch one of surfing’s greatest-ever heats. Teahupo’o was a crucial piece of silverware missing from Fanning’s glittering career. The Pipeline Masters in Hawaii is now the only major event title that eludes him. “I’m just super stoked,” he said.

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Two athletes from Portugal soak up the atmosphere at the Paralympic Games Opening Ceremony. I’ve no idea who they are, but if you do, send us their names, to hugh@tntdownunder.com because I’d like to know!

NZ MAORI TO TOUR UK IN NOVEMBER

BIG WEEK FOR ...

RUGBY UNION

The Maori All Blacks will take on Leicester Tigers, Canada and a RFU Championship select XV in a three-match November tour of the UK. New Zealand Rugby Union chief executive Steve Tew said: “The Maori All Blacks have been an important part of New Zealand’s rugby history and this UK tour reflects a NZRU commitment to a meaningful programme for the Maori All Blacks.” The words ‘All Blacks’ were added to the team’s name this year, as the NZRU seeks to convert the world champion national side’s appeal into cash to raise funds for all levels of the game in NZ.

With this week’s World Cup qualifier against Moldova (Friday, 7pm. ITV) the pressure goes on Roy Hodgson. After being given little time to prepare for the Euros, England’s manager wasn’t bogged down with expectations (just as well), but a poor showing against the Eastern Europeans will start the fans agitating. Hodgson’s assembled a good squad: a solid serving of experience seasoned with an exciting crop of young players, but things always look good on paper. His challenge will be firstly to win; secondly, to get his combinations firing; and thirdly, to do it in style. Easier said than done, but England are ranked third in the world. Moldova are 137th.

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QUOTES OF THE WEEK They Th T h think he’s just s som so o some hooligan from up north. He is anything n but. He’s a gentleman Andy Carroll obviously has a big fan in England teammate Joe Hart

Ma’a Nonu on the charge

PREVIEW Los Pumas ready to rumble RUGBY CHAMPIONSHIP NZ V ARGENTINA Can anyone stop the All Blacks? After they demolished Australia 22-0 at Eden Park a fortnight ago, running the Wallabies off the park with a scintillating brand of rugby, talk abounds of an ‘unbeaten season’. Such conjecture, however, is an insult to Los Pumas who arrive in Wellington this week. All Blacks fans would do well to remember the ferocity with which the Argentinians played in the World Cup

quarterfinal last year, scaring NZ before giving way in the final 20 minutes. Thsi time, Los Pumas are on a high after their 15-15 draw with the Springboks two weeks ago, a result that silenced anyone doubting they had the quality to compete. As a result, the All Blacks will be preparing for an onslaught as Argentina’s men mountains continue their good form, seeking to dominate the forward battles in an effort to prevent NZ getting quick ball to their exciting backline. Across the Tasman, Australia hosts South Africa.

Fiorentina Football Club criticises Dimitar Berbatov after he received more attractive offers ... from Juventus, and then Fulham

Co Courage ou becomes nd greater through a wound Wayne Rooney gets philosphical (via a T-shirt), reassuring fans he’ll be OK, despite suffering a nasty cut to his thigh

5:35PM FOXSPORTS 1, SATURDAY

THE CHAT | Australian Open boycott? heard some of the top men’s tennis Q I’ve players are muttering about not playing at Melbourne next year. What’s the deal? leading players have long been unhappy they only see A The less than 20 per cent of the revenue from the biggest

Photos: Getty Images

The T Th he player never a arri arr r arrived because of reckless and arrogant actions of other clubs, which have nothing to do with the values of nd d honesty, fair play and sporting ethics

tournaments, substantially less than in other sports. The main issue is the rewards for players who lose in the early rounds. Travel costs to Melbourne and other expenses incurred by players mean even those in the top 100 often struggle break even. Andy Murray (right) revealed the issue was raised at a player meeting earlier this year. “It was pretty brutal. Everyone was speaking up. The whole tour was kind of together – they still are. Who knows what’s going to happen?”

TV HIGHLIGHTS TENNIS US Open Day Eight Can the Aussie contingent hang in? Mon 1.00am. Fox Sports

CRICKET England v South Africa Fifth ODI action. Wed, 1.00am. Fox Sports

FORMULA ONE Italian Grand Prix All eyes on Mark Webber Mon, 2.00am. One HD

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OZLISTINGS TRAVEL AGENTS Adventure Travel Bugs 07 3236 3266, adventuretravelbugs.com Backpackers World Travel 1800 997 325 backpackersworld.com Peter Pans Adventure Travel 1800 669 424, peterpans.com.au Travellers Contact Point 1800 647 640, travellers.com.au Tribal Adventure Travel 1800 984 484, tribaltravel.com.au YHA Travel 02 9261 111, yha.com.au

TOUR FIRMS

Bottom Bits Bus Tours around Tasmania 1800 777 103, bottombits.com.au

Maxi Ragamuffin Whitsundays sailing 1800 454 777 maxiaction.com.au

Bunyip Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 286 947, bunyiptours.com

Mojosurf Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 113 044, mojosurf.com

Cool Dingos Fraser Island Tours 1800 072 555, cooldingotour.com

Nullarbor Traveller Tours from Adelaide and Perth 1800 816 858, the-traveller.com.au

Explore Whitsundays Whitsundays packages 1800 675 790, explorewhitsundays.com

Ocean Rafting Whitsundays tours 07 4946 6848, oceanrafting.com

Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan Rentals) 1800 809 944 mightycampers.com.au

Oz Experience Hop on-hop off Australia-wide tours 1300 300 028, ozexperience.com

Boomerang Cars 0414 882 559, boomerangcars.com.au

Surfcamp Sydney to Byron surfing tours 1800 888 732, surfcamp.com.au

Hippie Camper 1800 777 779, hippiecamper.com

Groovy Grape Getaways Tours linking Adelaide, Alice Springs & Melbourne 1800 661 177, groovygrape.com.au Heading Bush Adelaide to Alice Springs outback tours 1800 639 933, headingbush.com

The Rock Tour Red centre tours 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au

Adventure Tours Australia-wide tours 1800 068 886, adventuretours.com.au

Jump Tours Tours around Tasmania 0422 130 630, jumptours.com

Airliebeach.com Whitsundays packages 1800 677 119, airliebeach.com

Kakadu Dream Kakadu tours 1800 813 266, kakadudreams.com.au

Under Down Under Tours Tours around Tasmania 1800 064 726, underdownunder.com.au

Autopia Tours Tours around Victoria 03 9391 0261, autopiatours.com.au

Kangaroo Island Adventure Tours Adelaide to KI tours 13 13 01, kiadventuretours.com.au

Western Xposure WA tours 08 9414 8423, westernxposure.com.au

Awesome Adventures Oz Whitsundays packages 1800 293 7663, awesomeoz.com

Kangaroo Island Wildlife Adventures South Australia 1800 786 386, surfandsun.com.au

Wilderness 4WD Adventures Top end tours 1800 808 288, wildernessadventures.com.au

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Topdeck Tours covering all of Oz 1300 886 332, topdeck.travel

Wildlife Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 661 730, wildlifetours.com.au

RENTAL FIRMS Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779, apollocamper.com

Kings Cross Car Market For buying and selling vehicles. 110 Bourke St, Woolloomooloo. 02 9358 5000, carmarket.com.au Spaceships 1300 132 469, spaceshipsrentals.com.au Standbycars.com 1300 789 059, standbycars.com

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TRANSPORT CO Greyhound Australia Buses around Australia. 13 20 30, greyhound.com.au Jetstar Airline. 131 538, jetstar.com.au Premier Transport Group Buses along the east coast. 13 34 10, premierms.com.au Qantas Airline. 13 13 13, qantas.com.au Regional Express Airline. 13 17 13, rex.com.au Spirit of Tasmania Ferries to Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, spiritoftasmania.com Tiger Airways Airline. 03 9999 2888, tigerairways.com

Travellers Auto Barn 1800 674 374, travellers-autobarn.com.au

Redline Coaches For getting around Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, redlinecoaches.com.au

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869,

Virgin Australia Airline. 13 67 89, virginaustralia.com

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SYDNEY STAY Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718 stayatbase.com Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9267 7718 bighostel.com Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222 bouncehotel.com.au Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, easygobackpackers.com.au City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333 cityresort.com.au Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks. 02 9261 1111 yha.com.au Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186 nomadshostels.com

Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488, boomerangbackpackers.com Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 dluxbudgethotel.com.au Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9261 1111 Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709, avalonbeach.com.au Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, yha.com.au Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063, lamrocklodge.com Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi. 02 9387 2162, Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634, aegeancoogee.com.au Coogee Beach House 171 Arden St. Coogee. 02 9665 1162, coogeebeachhouse.com Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511,

sydneybeachside.com.au

tours. mysydneydetour.com

Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, surfsidebackpackers.com.au

Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade. oceanworld.com.au

Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418, yha.com.au Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 3411 boardrider.com.au The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122, bunkhouse.com.au Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411 manlybackpackers.com.au Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371 sydneyboardinghouse.com Wake Up! 509 Pitt St, CBD. 02 9288 7888, wakeup.com.au

SYDNEY DO Manly Surf School Manly Beach. 02 9977 6977, manlysurfschool.com

Oxford Art Factory oxfordartfactory.com Sydney Opera House sydneyoperahouse.com The Annandale annandalehotel.com The Enmore enmoretheatre.com.au

Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour. powerhousemuseum.com.au

The Metro metrotheatre.com.au

Skydive the Beach Wollongong. skydivethebeach.com

BLUE MTNS Blue Mountains YHA 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba. 02 4782 1416, yha.com.au

Sydney Olympic Park Darling Harbour. sydneyolympicpark.nsw.gov.au

CENTRAL COAST

Sydney Tower and Skytour 100 Market St, CBD. sydneyskytour.com.au

Newcastle Beach YHA 30 Pacific St, Newcastle. 02 4925 3544, yha.com.au

Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks. bridgeclimb.com Sydney Aquarium Darling Harbour. sydneyaquarium.com.au Sydney Wildlife World Darling Harbour. sydneywildlifeworld.com.au

Skydive Central Coast Warnervale. skydivethecentralcoast.com.au

Taronga Zoo Mosman. zoo.nsw.gov.au

BYRON BAY

Waves Surf School wavessurfschool.com.au

Maritime Museum Darling Harbour. anmm.gov.au My Sydney Detour Unique city

SYDNEY MUSIC Hordern Pavillion playbillvenues.com

Terrigal Beach YHA 9 Ocean View Dr, Terrigal. 02 4384 1919, yha.com.au

Backpackers Holiday Village 116 Jonson St 1800 350 388, byronbaybackpackers.com.au Backpackers Inn 29 Shirley St

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

FREE WI-FI FREE CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST FREE AIRPORT PICK UP* Bondi Shores quality hotel, motel, hostel, backpacker, bed and breakfast, student, long and short term accommodation with share facilities at affordable prices. If staying at Bondi Shores you will be conveniently located only minutes walk away from Campbell Parade (main street of Bondi Beach ), which features many popular cafes, restaurants and fantastic shops. Bondi Beach has it all.

JENOLAN CAVES In the heart of the Blue Mountains, stalactites and stalagmites line the walls of the Jenolan Caves. Huge geological structures plaster the walls and cave paintings give colour to an otherwise dark area. Just three hours drive west of Sydney, the Jenolan Caves attract over 250,000 visitors per year, making it the most popular tourist location in rural New South Wales. Offering guided tours, adventure caving and night tours, the Jenolan Caves also boasts great accomodation. There are even underground concerts – taking advantage of the amazing acoustics echoing through the many nooks and crannies of the caves. Make sure you check out the world-famous ghost tours and try not to get lost on your way through. This exciting tourist destination is a must-see for any tourist travelling through the mountains. The spectacular sights and sounds of this freaky cave will spook the fun right into you.

Everything made easy for you at Bondi Shores: from entertainment advise to tours bookings. Just ask. So if you want to get the most out of your stay in Sydney, choose Bondi Shores Accommodation. The friendly staff will make sure you have memorable stay. We look forward to seeing you at Bondi Shores. CALL FREE 1800 33 00 10 (Australia wide) Or + 61 2 9130 6787 www.bondishores.com.au

* conditions apply

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DON’T MISS

Coolangatta Kirra Beach YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga. 07 5536 76442, yha.com.au Coolangatta Sands Hostel Cnr Griffiths & McLean Sts, Coolangatta. 07 5536 7472, coolangattasandshostel.com.au Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300, goldcoastbackpackers.com. au

DON’T MISS PARKLIFE FESTIVAL

Brisbane

Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, stayatbase.com Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433, stayatbase.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, bunkbrisbane.com.au The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3377 7061

Various venues. 12 Sept. From $45 120 bands over 12 venues across two nights. With an array of national and international bands, don’t miss it.

Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise. 1800 817 832, sleepinginn.com.au

parklife.com.au

BRISBANE STAY

BIG SOUND

Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise. 1800 074 393, islander.com.au

Riverstage. 29 Sep. $145 Parklife is back for another year with the freshest bunch of artists at the best park venues. Soak up the sun and bask in the cool tunes.

Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646, tinbilly.com

BRISBANE DO Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000, australiazoo.com.au Gallery of Modern Art 07 3840 7303, qag.qld.gov.au

Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers.com.au Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise. 07 5571 1776, yha.com.au Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 1800 100 004, trekkersbackpackers.com.au

GC DO

Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point. 07 3891 5766, riverlife.com.au

Dreamworld Theme park. dreamworld.com.au

Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point. 1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb.com.au

Seaworld seaworld.com.au

XXXX Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton. 07 3361 7597, xxxxalehouse.com.au

GOLD COAST Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise. 1800 22 99 55, aquariusbackpackers.com.au

Get Wet Surf School 07 5532 9907

Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World wetnwild.myfun.com.au Warener Bros Movie World movieworld.com.au Zorb 07 5547 6300

Fortitude Valley

triplej.yourevents.com.au

75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba. 1800 020 120 mooloolababackpackers.com Nomads Noosa 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads. 1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567, halselodge.com.au

RAINBOW BEACH Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111 126, dingosresort.com Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, pippiesbeachhouse.com Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358, skydiverainbowbeach.com

HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677

SUNSHINE CST Mooloolaba Backpackers

woolshedbackpackers.com Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989,

nextbackpackers.com.au Nomads Hervey Bay 408 The Esplanade. 1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168, palaceadventures.com.au

FRASER ISLAND Eurong Beach Resort 07 4120 1600, eurong.com.au Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 palaceadventures.com.au

BUNDABERG Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 federalbackpackers.com.au Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours. 07 4131 2999 bundabergrum.com.au

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Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Gold Coast

Famous for fun

AdventureGoldCoast.com

facebook.com/AdventureGoldCoast twitter.com/AdventureGoldCoast

QLDLISTINGS TOWN OF 1770 1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr. 1800 121 770, the1770backpackers.com

Arcadia Bay. 07 4778 5177 magnetic-island.com/arc-rsrt.htm Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

BOOK NOW

MISSION BEACH Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road. 07 4068 8317, absolutebackpackers.com.au

1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889, 1770underseaadventures.com

Scottyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, scottysbeachhouse.com.au

AIRLIE BEACH airliebeach.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bohemiacentral.com.au

Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 247 251, yha.com.au

SPRUNG

Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994, backpackersbythebay.com Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634 magnums.com.au

BOWEN Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433 bowenbackpackers.net

RNA Showgrounds. 10 Nov. $77. This hip-hop/RnB gig boasts big names such as the Hilltop Hoods and Illy. Check out the raw Australian talent on offer.

Fortitude Valley

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Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au

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TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522, adventurersresort.com Adrenalin Dive Yongala diving. 07 4724 0600, adrenalindive.com. au Yongala Dive Yongala diving. 07 4783 1519, yongaladive.com.au

MAGNETIC ISL Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd. 1800 24 22 73, stayatbase.com Bungalow Bay Backpackers Horseshoe Bay. 1800 285 577, bungalowbay. com.au Hotel Arcadia 7 Marine Pde,

7/2+%23 7!.4%$

Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353, bohemiaresort.com. au

JJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com NJoy Backpackers Hostel Harbour 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055,njoy.net.au Nomads Beach House 239 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228,

nomadshostels.com

CAIRNS DO AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon swinging. 1800 622 888 cairns.ajhackett.com Pro Dive 07 4031 5255 prodivecairns.com Raging Thunder Adventures Whitewater rafting. 07 4030 7990, ragingthunder.com.au Skydive Cairns 07 4052 1822, skydivecairns.com.au

CAPE TRIB Crocodylus Village Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Rd, Cow Bay. 07 4098 9166, crocodyluscapetrib.com PKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333, pksjunglevillage.com.au

INNISFAIL IInnisfail Budget Backpackers Workerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hostel 125 Edith St. 07 4061 7833

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

&RUIT AND 6EGETABLE PICKING JOBS AVAILABLE s 4RANSPORT TO FROM WORK s &2%% COURTESY BUS PICK UP s ,AUNDRY FACILITIES s )NTERNET FACILITIES s 0LEASANT AND FRIENDLY STAFF s "ISTRO AVAILABLE AT "ANJO S TAVERN NEXT DOOR

PORT DOUGLAS This upmarket, pretty resort town might cost you more than Cairns, just to the south, but it is perfectly positioned right by the reef and is fringed by stunning white beaches. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a great jump-off point for Cape Tribulation and Cape York.

6!2)%49 /& 7/2+ !6!),!",% 9%!2 2/5.$ "REEZY 4ROPICAL VERANDAHS CLEAN FRIENDLY #LOSE TO SHOPS BANKS OLYMPIC POOL

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Oceania

- Small dorms, doubles, twins and singles ess - Free breakfast and dinner everyday - Bus pick up on arrival - Swimming pool, social areas, WIFI - BBQ and quiz nights e!! - Tour desks, discounts available! www.jjsbackpackers.com - A great social atmosphere! Freecall (within Oz) 1800 666 336 - Owner operated Tel: + 617 4051 7642 11-13 Charles St Cairns QLD

. . . E R E H Y L L A IN F E â&#x20AC;&#x2122;R YOU

LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!

DA9 K F LG <AN= OAL@ 9MKLJ9 L9C= L@= HDMF?=$ D=9J LS NA SIO VE PROFES GREAT BARRIER REEF DI

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Our 5 Day PADI Open water course is the most popular way to do it.

FEATURES

We also specialise in Liveaboard dive trips and all levels of dive education.

FREECALL: 1800 000 541

Air-conditioning 24 hour reception Kitchen & laundry Keycard access Secure parking Free BBQ

HEAPS OF ACTIVITIES! Day trip to Crystal Cascades, Wakeboarding, Sailing, Movie nights and much more!

www.prodivecairns.com SHOP: Cnr Shields & Grafton Sts, Cairns FREECALL: 1800 353 213 PHONE: +617 4031 5255 RES: info@prodivecairns.com

117 Grafton Street Cairns, QLD Australia 4870 northern@friendlygroup.com.au www.northerngreenhouse.com.au www.greenhousebackpacker.com.au

FREE DAILY BREAKFAST

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VICLISTINGS MELBOURNE STAY All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, allnations.com.au

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Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond. 03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697, exfordhotel.com.au

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Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au

go to: goldenbackpacks.tntdownunder.com

The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com.au Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212, homemansion.com.au Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718, hometravellersmotel.com.au Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200, hotelbakpak.com

Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523, yha.com.au Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762, nomadshostels.com Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, hotelspencer.com

MELBOURNE DO Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square. 03 8663 2200, acmi.net.au Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999, melbourneaquarium.com.au Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888 mcg.org.au Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02 melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square. ngv.vic.gov.au Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228,

SEASIDE

FEATURES

FREECALL: 1800 249 207

Central location 24 hour reception Kitchen & laundry Keycard access Luggage Storage Lockers

HEAPS OF ACTIVITIES!

Level 6, 228 Flinders Lne Melbourne, VIC 3000 greenhouse@friendlygroup.com.au www.greenhousebackpacker.com.au www.northerngreenhouse.com.au

FREE DAILY BREAKFAST

Walking tour, Pub crawl, Bingo night, Pasta night, Sunday pancakes and much more!

PORTSEA

SCAN TO

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A popular holiday spot for people who don’t want to travel too far away from the CBD of Melbourne. Portsea’s location at the tip of the Mornington Peninsula means you can swim at a safe bay beach and be surfing at the ocean beach just minutes later. Often known for the rich people who occupy the houses within this affluent postcode, Portsea offers a range of activities for any holidaymaker. Scuba diving is the main recreational activity on offer. While surfing and relaxing on the beach is another great way to spend the day. Walk the peninsula and get lost in the trails around the lighthouse, or gaze upon stunning ocean views and sandy beaches.

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oldmelbournegaol.com.au

03 5237 7899, yha.com.au

Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. 03 9629 5866, neighbourstour.com.au

Great Ocean Road Backpackers YHA 10 Erskine Av, Lorne. 03 5289 2508, yha.com.au

Skydive the Beach Melbourne 1300 798 843 skydivethebeachmelbourne.com

MELB MUSIC Cherry Bar myspace.com/cherrybarmelbourne Corner Hotel cornerhotel.com

Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell. 03 5598 6305, portcampbellhostel.com.au Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263, surfsidebackpacker.com

East Brunswick Club eastbrunswickclub.com Esplanade Hotel espy.com.au Northcote Social Club northcotesocialclub.com Palace Theatre palace.com.au The Hi-Fi thehifi.com.au The Tote thetotehotel.com

GREAT OCEAN RD Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea. 03 5263 2664, angleseabackpackers.com.au Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St.

MORNINGTON Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie. 03 5988 0188, bayplay.com.au Sorrento Foreshore Reserve Nepean Hwy. 1800 850 600, mornpen.vic.gov.au Sorrento YHA 3 Miranda St, Sorrento. 03 5984 4323, yha.com.au Tortoise Head Lodge French Island. 03 5980 1234, tortoisehead.net

DANDENONG Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

BOOK NOW

MURRAY RIVER Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca. 03 5480 6522, yha.com.au Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura. 03 5022 7922, milduracitybackpackers.com.au Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura. 04 0734 4251, milduraoasisbackpackers.com.au

COMEDY COURT

GIPPSLAND

Red Violin. 6 Sept. $12 Home of Australia’s hottest new up and coming stars, Comedy Court features Australia’s only live Audience Digital voting stand-up show.

Prom Country Backpackers 03 5682 2614 Cambrai Hostel Maffra 117 Johnson St, Maffra. 1800 101 113 maffra.net.au/hostel

PHILLIP ISLAND Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 3620, yha.com.au

Bourke Street

moshtixcom.au

The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road. 03 5956 6123 theislandaccommodation.com.au

GRAMPIANS Grampians YHA Eco Hostel

Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4543, yha.com.au Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288, timsplace.com.au

Stay. Play. Melbourne.

$22

Accommodation from $22 a night (subject to availability)

Maximum 4 bed dormitories with linen and towel FREE all you can eat breakfast (cereal, toast and juice), weekly meal, rice and pasta, tea and coffee FREE in room oversized locker with personal power point 5 minute walk to city Large bar with big screen (all major sporting events shown) Drink specials at the bar Public transport on doorstep

UC103

Unique value tour packages

Book Now 1800

631 288 urbancentral.com.au

334 CITY ROAD SOUTHBANK MELBOURNE VIC 3006 AUSTRALIA

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www.spacehotel.com.au 380 Russell Street, Melbourne 1800 670 611

Located in the heart of the city, Space Hotel is the perfect choice for backpackers wanting to explore Melbourne.

Free cinema State of the art kitchen Gym Internet café and WIFI Rooftop deck and spa Free airport pickup

Open 4pm to 12am Mon-Sun $5 pizza and pasta Daily drink specials Wednesday Backpacker nights!

VOTE FOR US IN THE TNT GOLDEN BACKPACKS

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DARWIN STAY Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au

KATHERINE STAY

DON’T MISS

BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road. 1800 501 984, big4.com.au

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au

KATHERINE DO

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au

DARWIN DO Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522, crocosauruscove.com Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront. 08 8981 0700, deckchaircinema.com.au

ALICE DO Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive. 08 8951 8788, alicespringsdesertpark.com.au

Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights. 08 8972 2345 airbornesolutions.com.au

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au

Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com

Toddy’s Resort 41 Gap Rd. 1800 027 027, toddys.com.au

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Giles St. 1800 626 722

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385, yha.com.au

Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards. 9 Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 8900, reptilecentre.com.au

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743 nitmiluktours.com.au

SMASH MOUTH Darwin Ampitheatre. 20 Oct. Prices TBA “Hey now, you’re a rock star. Get your game on, go play!” Smash Mouth are coming to the north of Australia for a special show.

The Gardens

triplej.yourevents.com.au/

Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, nt.gov.au Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point. 08 8999 8264, magnt.nt.gov.au

Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf. 1300 135 595, ozjetboating.com.au Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River. 08 8978 9077, jumpingcrocodile.com.au Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct. waterfront.nt.gov.au

TENNANT CREEK Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719, touristrest.com.au

Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides. 1800 809 790, outbackballooning.com.au Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room. Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129, flyingdoctor.net

ALICE SPRINGS Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, alicelodge.com.au Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. 08 8952 8855, yha.com.au Annie’s Place 4 Traeger Ave. 1800 359 089, anniesplace.com.au

Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive. 1800 794 663, alicehaven.com.au

School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum. 80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, assoa.nt.edu.au The Rock Tour Uluru tours. 78 Todd St. 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au

WORD FROM THE STREET

Oisin Coveney, Ireland FAVOURITE PLACE IN OZ? Fraser Island. It’s absolutely beautiful, with crazy campfire parties. SCARIEST EXPERIENCE? My craziest/funniest/scariest moments are all rolled into one, when a wild possum attacked me when a prank on my mate went horribly wrong one night in Hervey Bay. DONE ANYTHING YOU WOULDN’T DO AT HOME? Definitely a few girls but, as they say, what happens in Oz, stays in Oz! ANYTHING YOU MISS? Yes, I wish I had brought a year’s supply of Barry’s tea bags.

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TASLISTINGS HOBART STAY Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507, centralbackpackers.com.au

LAUNCESTON DO

BOOK NOW

Cataract Gorge launcestoncataractgorge.com.au Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300, boags.com.au

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660, yha.com.au

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777, qvmag.tas.gov.au

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100, tasmaniazoo.com.au

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com

DEVONPORT

Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com

Princes Wharf. 16 + 17 Nov. Prices TBA New home, new date, new venue – the fifth installment of Tasmania’s Soundscape Festival is a must this November.

HOBART DO

Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880 mtwellingtondescent.com.au

Hobart

Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101, portarthur.org.au

LAUNCESTON Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135, arthousehostel.com.au

Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, launcestonbackpackers.com.au Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906, backpackersaccommodation.com.au

GO WILD

Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

CRADLE DO Devils at Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. devilsatcradle.com Overland Track Six-day walk parks.tas.gov.au

FREYCINET Iluka Backpackers YHA Reserve Rd. 03 6257 0115, yha.com.au Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000, wineglassbay.com

BICHENO

triplej.yourevents.com.au/

PORT ARTHUR

Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. salamanca.com.au Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St. tmag.com.au

Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335, tasmanbackpackers.com.au

SOUNDSCAPE FESTIVAL

Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 cascadebreweryco.com.au

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Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, bichenobackpackers.com Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333, bichenopenguintours.com.au

CRADLE MTN Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574, discoveryholidayparks.com.au

STRAHAN, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St. 03 6471 7255, yha.com

STRAHAN DO Four Wheelers Henty Sand Dunes quadbike tours. 04 1950 8175, 4wheelers.com.au Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142, franklinrivertasmania.com

WORD FROM THE STREET

Photo: Tourism Tasmania

Nick Choi, Korea

BRUNY ISLAND Bruny Island is famous for its scenery, rainforests, national park reserves, beaches and wildlife. This is the place to go to watch fairy penguins or the rare, white wallaby. Cloudy Bay is a popular surfing spot and fishing is good both in freshwater and in the sea. There are several walking tracks within the national park and reserves. The island is located off the south east coast of Tasmania, not far from Hobart. Geologically, the isle is comprised of two islands; North Bruny and South Bruny, which are joined by a long and sandy isthmus. Ferries go from Kettering to North Bruny In 20 minutes.

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WHAT MADE YOU COME TO OZ? I became an exchange student at Melbourne University. I studied there for six months and I just finished my exams last week and then I went to Adelaide so I could go to Kangaroo Island. FAVOURITE PLACE? Adelaide, because it makes me calm down, everybody there is so relaxed and nobody is rushing like they do in Melbourne, it’s so peaceful. But the the most exciting place I’ve been to would have to be Kangaroo Island. WHAT DO YOU MISS? My Mum’s cooking and I miss fast internet!

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ADELAIDE STAY

DON’T MISS

Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, adpi.com.au

Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614, camp-underground.com.au

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010, yha.com.au

KANGAROO IS

Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, anniesplace.com.au Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au

SARAH MCLEOD

Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au

The Grace Emily, 6 Sept. $23.50 Multi award winning and double platinum selling artist, Sarah McLeod, is one of Australia’s greatest rock chicks, catch her in Adelaide.

Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au

ADELAIDE DO Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection. War Memorial Drive. 08 8300 3800 cricketsa.com.au

1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891, radekadownunder.com.au

Adelaide

moshtix.com.au

Adelaide Zoo Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, zoossa.com.au Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours. 153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside 1800 819 757, haighschocolates.com.au Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg. 04 1281 1838 dolphinboat.com.au

BAROSSA VAL Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road Tanunda. 08 8563 0198, barossabackpackers.com.au

COOBER PEDY Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, opalcavecooberpedy.com.au Radeka Down Under

Port Elliot Beach House YHA 13 The Strand, Port Elliot. 08 8554 2785 yha.com.au

EYRE PENINSULA Coodlie Park Farmstay Flinders Highway, Port Kenny. 08 8687 0411 coodliepark.com

Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw. 08 8553 1344 yha.com.au

Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience Sea lion and dolphin swims. 08 8626 5017 bairdbay.com

Vivonne Bay Lodge 66 Knofel Drive, Vivonne Bay 13 13 01 seaink.com.au

Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving. 08 8682 3939, sharkcagediving.com.au

RIVERLAND Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri. 08 8582 3144, berribackpackers.com.au Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton. 08 8584 5646, harvesttrail.com.au Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray. 1800 665 166, nomadsworld.com Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

FLEURIEU PENIN

Nullarbor Traveller Tours across to Perth. 1800 816 858 the-traveller.com.au Port Lincoln Tourist Park 11 Hindmarsh St. 08 8621 4444, portlincolntouristpark.com.au Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions Great white shark cage diving. 08 8363 1788 rodneyfox.com.au

FLINDERS RANGES Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842, angorichinavillage.com.au Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004, wilpenapound.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

MUSGRAVE RANGES

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Photo: SATC

The Musgrave Ranges are one of Australia’s longest mountain ranges, stretching from the tip of South Australia into the Northern Territory and Western Australia. With a length of 210 kilometres, and mountains as high as almost 1,500 metres, the Musgrave Ranges will be the long trail you’ve been waiting to explore. Inhabited by the Pitjantjatjara Aborigines, the mountain ranges are known to be rich in minerals as well as amazingly breathtaking panoramic views.

WALISTINGS

DON’T MISS

One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333, yha.com.au The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755, undergroundbackpackers.com.au The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, witchshat.com

ONELOVE MOBILE DISCO Villa Centre. 7 Sep. $33.90. It’s time to dig out your dancing shoes and glitter guns as OneLove returns for another dance revolutionary year.

Stirling St, Perth

Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys. 08 9447 7500, aqwa.com.au

moshtix.com.au

PERTH STAY

Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au

Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, billabongresort.com.au

Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au

Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, perthbrittania.com

PERTH DO

Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111,

Kings Park & Botanic Garden bgpa.wa.gov.au Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223, perthmint.com.au Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth. 08 9474 3551, perthzoo.wa.gov.au

PERTH MUSIC Amplifier amplifiercapitol.com.au Astor liveattheastor.com.au Mojo’s Bar mojosbar.com.au The Bakery nowbaking.com.au

Darwin

u t n e v d A n e p s

Qld

Brisbane

Sa Perth

Nsw Sydney

Adelaide

Vic Melbourne Hobart

1355

Visit our website for great accommodation specials and online bookings 58

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Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. 08 9372 9780, yha.com.au Rottnest Express 1300 Go Rotto rottnestexpress.com.au

MARGARET RIV Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. 08 9757 9532, yha.com.au

The Rosemount Hotel rosemounthotel.com.au

FREO STAY Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065, backpackersinnfreo.com.au Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, fremantleprison.com.au Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080, sundancerbackpackers.com.au

FREO DO Fremantle Markets 08 9335 2515, fremantlemarkets.com.au Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace. 08 9336 9200, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

ROTTNEST ISL

Aspen Parks Begin your re today...

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Surfpoint 12 Riedle Drive Prevally 08 9757 1777 surfpoint.com.au

ALBANY Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St 08 9842 3388, yha.com.au Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd. 08 9842 9599, cruizeinn.com

MONKEY MIA Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort 1800 653 611, monkeymia.com.au

NINGALOO REEF Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101, aspenparks.com.au

Holiday Parks with a difference Australia Wide Western Australia Woodman Point Holiday Park Coogee Beach Holiday Park Perth Vineyards Holiday Park Exmouth Cape Holiday Park Blue Reef Backpackers Pilbara Holiday Park Cooke Point Holiday Park

1800 244 133 1800 817 016 1800 679 992 1800 621 101 1800 621 101 1800 451 855 1800 459 999

South Australia Port Augusta BIG4 Holiday Park 1800 833 444 Myall Grove Holiday Park 1800 356 103 Victoria Boathaven Holiday Park Geelong Riverview Tourist Park Golden River Holiday Park Yarraby Holiday Park Ashley Gardens BIG4 Holiday Village

1800 352 982 1800 336 225 1800 621 262 1800 222 052 1800 061 444

New South Wales A Shady River Holiday Park Maiden’s Inn Holiday Park Magic Murray Houseboats Murray River Holiday Park Wymah Valley Holiday Park Twofold Bay Beach Resort Wallamba River Holiday Park

1800 674 239 1800 356 801 1800 356 483 1800 357 215 1800 776 523 1800 631 006 1800 268 176

Queensland Island Gateway Holiday Park

1800 466 528

aspenparks.com.au

VELLING TRA ON TO F

FIJILISTINGS

IJI?

NADI & WEST Aquarius Pacific Hotel +679 672 6000 Beach Escape Villas +679 672 4442, beachscape@ connect.com.fj Cathay Hotel +679 666 0566, fiji4less.com

mote ere. Visit the re ds, Fiji. - it s all th n la Is a w k , explore sa a Ya ay k , e iv el d Chill, snork

Horizon Backpackers +679 672 2832, horizonbeachfiji.com Nadi Bay Resort Hotel +679 672 3599, fijinadibayhotel.com

entures

dv Awesome A

for backpacketravellers tive and alterna xperience the e

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ISLAND HOPPING PASSES

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Tabukula Beach Bungalows +679 650 0097, fiji4less.com The Uprising Beach Resort +679 345 2200, uprisingbeachresort.com Tsulu Luxury Backpackers & Apartments +679 345 0065, tsulu.com Vakaviti Motel & Dorm +679 650 0526, bulavakaviti@connect.com.fj Vilisite Place +679 650 1030

SUVA Colonial Lodge +679 92 75248, sailevukaga@yahoo.co.nz

Korovou Eco Tour Resort +679 666 6644 korovoultk@connect.com.fj

Raintree Lodge +679 332 0562, raintreelodge.com

Kuata Resort +679 666 6644

Royal Hotel +679 344 0024 royal@connect.com.fj

Long Beach Backpackers Resort +679 666 6644

South Seas Private Hotel +679 331 2296, fiji4less.com

Manta Ray Island +679 672 6351 mantarayisland@connect.com.fj

Tailevu Hotel +679 343 0028

Wayalailai Island Resort +679 672 1377 wayalailai@connect.com.fj White Sandy Beach Dive Resort +679 666 4066

MAMANUCA ISL Beachcomber Island Resort +679 666 1500, beachcomberfiji.com Bounty Island Resort +679 666 6999, fiji-bounty.com Rau Kini’s Hostel +679 672 1959, rtkinihostel@connect.com.fj The Funky Fish Beach Resort +679 628 2333, funkyfishresort.com

AAF3373 - Issue 674

For info and bookings see your travel centre or contact us: phone1800 007 129 or SKYPE awesomeﬁji

Seashell Cove Resort +679 670 6100, seashellresort.com

Leleuvia Island Resort +679 331 9567, eleen@leleuvia.com

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Daily departures for all packages and passes from Denarau Marina

Robinson Crusoe +679 629 1999, robinsoncrusoeislandfiji.com

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Straight out of your tropical Island Fantasy. Two island stays have always been extremely popular so we ve made it really easy for you with a matching of islands that we think make a great pair. Packages from $421

Rendezvous Dive Resort +679 628 4427, surfdivefiji.com

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5 days 4 nights 2 islands

Pacific Safaris Club +679 345 0498, safariclub@connect.com.fj

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GREAT PAIRS

Mango Bay Resort +679 653 00690, mangobayresortfiji.com

The Resort Walu Beach +679 665 1777, walubeach.com

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NORTH VITI LEVU Bethams Cottage +679 669 4132, bethams.com.fj Macdonalds Beach Cottages +679 669 4633 Morrison’s Beach Cottagess +679 669 4516, tipple@connect.com.fj Safari Lodge Fijis +679 669 3333 safarilodge.com.fj Volivoli Beach Resort +679 669 4511, volivoli.com

VANUA LEVU Bayside Backpacker Cottage +679 885 3154, tripntour@connect.com.fj Hidden Paradise Guest House +678 885 0106 Naveria Heights Lodge +679 851 0157, justnaveria@connect.com.fj Savusavu Hot Springs +679 885 0195, hotspringshotel@connect.com.fjj

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NZLISTINGS BUS TOURS

Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, rentadent.co.nz

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Rental Car Village +64 9376 9935, hire-vehicles.co.nz Spaceships 1300 139 091, spaceships.tv

Nakedbus.com 0900 62533, nakedbus.com

Standby Cars 1300 789 059, standbycars.com.au

NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966, travelpass.co.nz

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickedcampers.com

Stray +64 9309 8772, straytravel.com

AUCKLAND

RENTAL FIRMS

Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. +64 9275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz

Ace Rental Cars 1800 140 026, acerentalcars.com.nz Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals +800 200 80 801, backpackercampervans.com

Auckland International Backpackers (BBH) 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584,

Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122, bargainrentals.com.nz Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 447 363, exploremore.co.nz

Base Auckland 229 Queen St. 0800 227 369, stayatbase.com

Econo Campers +64 9275 9919, econocampers.co.nz

Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9623 4267, hostelbackpacker.com

Escape Rentals 1800 456 272, escaperentals.co.nz Explore More 1800 800 327, dcrentals.com.nz Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736, jucy.com.nz

Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com

Base Discovery Lodge St. +64 Queenstown 49 Shotover St. +64 3441 1185, stayatbase.com

Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. +64 9300 9999, nomadshostels.com

Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres. +64 4384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz

Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, bungibackpackers.co.nz

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) St. +64 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9638 6545, oaklands.co.nz

Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414

Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. +64 3443 7341, cardrona.com

Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. +64 9373 3471, enquiries@qsb.co.nz Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. +64 9363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. +64 9309 2802, yha.co.nz YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. +64 9302 8200, yha.co.nz

WELLINGTON Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. +64 4801 5666 stayatbase.com

Central City Backpackers 26 Lorne St. +64 9358 5685, backpacker.net.nz

Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. +64 4473 8482 db@downtownbackpackers.co.nz

City Garden Lodge 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. +64 9302 0880

Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. +64 4385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz

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Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. +64 3442 5494, flamingkiwi@xtra.co.nz

Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. +64 3377 1897, chesterst.co.nz

Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. +64 3442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz

Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. +64 3366 9720, backpack.co.nz/foley

Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. +64 3441 3922, nomadshostels.com

Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546, stay@kiwibasecamp.com

Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown. peterpans.com.au

The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. +64 3381 5504, oldcountryhousenz.com

Pinewood Lodge (VIP) 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 7463 9663, rgrieg@xtra.co.nz

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. +64 3366 6500, tranquil-lodge.co.nz

Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, southernlaughter.co.nz

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. +64 3377 7931, rucksacker.com

QUEENSTOWN

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INTERVIEW WITH A BARTENDER MARIANNE VAN DER KOOY, 23 FROM THE NETHERLANDS

MARIANNE VAN DER KOOY, 23, NETHERLANDS

What made you come to Australia to work? I came to Australia on a working holiday visa, just as a back-up in case I ran out of money. There were three jobs I really wanted to do here because I thought they were ‘real Australian’. These were fruit picking, sheep shearing and working as a barmaid in a country pub. And what jobs have you done? I picked oranges and lemons in Renmark (South Australia), worked on a huge cattle station near Cunnamulla (Queensland) to muster goats and help shearing the sheep and eventually I found bar work in a little town called Bruce Rock (Western Australia). Is that what you’re doing now? Yes, I work in a pub which rents out motel rooms as well. The job involves working in the pub – which was also a bottle shop, housekeeping in the motel rooms, serving and preparing dinner for the guests and taking bookings. How did you land this job? I have been working in a homestead in Ross River (Northern Territory) before and I worked over there with a girl who’d been working in Bruce Rock Hotel before. As I planned to go to Perth anyway I thought it’d be perfect to try and get a job over there. I sent them an email with my CV and made a few phone calls – one week later I was working in the pub!

to hear from the locals about living in remote areas (the Central Wheatbelt). I’ve met so many different people with different reasons for being there! If you’re really interested, the people will tell lots of stories about their (mainly sheep shearing and farming) jobs which I think is so cool to hear about. And actually living in the town makes me feel like a bit of a local. We don’t get paid heaps but there’s lot of work to do, so I am able to save up for my next travels. And what isn’t so great? Sometimes in pubs people get too drunk and start fighting, this can be exiting but it’s a bit scary as well. We have had to refuse some people if they were barred from the pub and that can be annoying too. What was your job back home? I just finished my study in Food Technology but had some random jobs like catering work, sport shops and giving presentations to high school students about Food Technology.

How’s the pay? The pay isn’t too good but I have free accomodation, free meals and a free drink every day so I was really happy with that.

Anything else to share? There is not too much sightseeing to be done in the Central Wheatbelt, but one tourist attraction is Wave Rock. This huge rock is located close to Hyden and has the shape of a wave. My Dutch colleague and I became friends with some locals and they spent a full day showing us around the area and took us to Wave Rock and the nearby Hippo’s Yawn. It was so awesome that the people were friendly enough to do that for us, and no one can beat these guided tours by real locals!

What are the good points? It is really nice to see how the lifestyle is up there and

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