TNT Australia 713

14-27 January 2013 Issue 713 tntdownunder.com

IPN W GRIP ING

A E SHARK CAG H T DIVE IN SOU AUSTR ALIA

INTO THE BLUE The best scuba diving spots in Oz

KEYBOARD SHORTCUT Chatting to electronic duo The Presets

R E L A E D R E L WHEE

tralia r van in Aus e p m a c a g ckin elling and ro s , g in y u b e guide to The definitiv + NEWS & SPORT WHAT’S ON FILM REVIEWS TRAVELLERS’ TIPS

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Bonza SYDNEY < > CAIRNS

$1503

Includes: al e + Loc 'ULYeU *uLded 7UDYel Packag + $105 6WD\ Dnd 6uUI DW 6SRW ; $1398 1LPELn 'D\ 7RuU 7U\ RuU IDnWDsWLc (DsW &RDsW 3Dsses ZKLcK Lnclude %\URn %D\ .D\DN ZLWK 'RlSKLn 7RuU WUDYel DcWLYLWLes sRPe DccRPPRdDWLRn PeDls nLJKWs dRUP DccRPPRdDWLRn Ln 1RRsD :e¡Ye JRW Dll \RuU WUDYel needs sRUWed dD\ nLJKW )UDseU IslDnd :' 7DJ $lRnJ WRuU )DUP 6WD\ DW 2uWEDcN &DWWle 6WDWLRn %Uuce &REEeU 6\dne\ dD\ nLJKW :KLWsundD\ 6DLlLnJ $dYenWuUe *UeDW %DUULeU 5eeI 6DLl 6nRUNel 'LYe 7RuU Includes: Â&#x2021; +RS Rn KRS RII cRDcK WUDYel EeWZeen 6\dne\ ! &DLUns Â&#x2021; 6uUI Dnd 6WD\ DW 6SRW ; ZLWK PRsW PeDls Lncluded Â&#x2021; 1LPELn 'D\ 7RuU Â&#x2021; )DUP 6WD\ DW .URRPELW

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$669

Includes: al e + Loc 'ULYeU *uLded 7UDYel Packag + $105 $564 6WD\ Dnd 6uUI DW 6SRW ; 1LPELn 'D\ 7RuU )DUP 6WD\ DW 2uWEDcN &DWWle 6WDWLRn

VISIT OZEXPERIENCE.COM OR CALL 1300 300 028 T&Câ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s: Prices are subject to change without notice. Local payments are to be paid to the tour operator directly. For full terms and conditions visit www.ozexperience.com.

ALEX HARMON EDITOR editor@tntdownunder.com

EDITOR’S LETTER We here at TNT like nothing more than hitting the road.

Unfortunately time never allows this and we end up begrudgingly boarding Tiger flights. But you lucky readers have all the time in the world! That’s why you should get some wheels and hit the road. Check out our campervan guide on pg38. While you’re there, get really deep and meaningful with our top dive spots (pg32). Happy travels!

THIS WEEK OZ DIARY

4

FOOD AND DRINK

6

GIGS

8

CHATROOM

16

FILM

18

LIFESTYLE

20

NEWS

22

SPORT

24

TRAVEL

26

HOT SHOTS

28

TRAVEL TIPS

29

WEEKENDER

44

WIN

46

LISTINGS AUSTRALIA

52

LISTINGS NEW ZEALAND

68

WORK

71

RECRUIT INTERVIEW

72

TRIVIAL PURSUITS

74

32

48

FEATURES PACIFICA-RAMA

12

We sit down with one half of The Presets to talk their new album Pacifica

DO YOU SCUBA?

32

Grab your aqua-lung and BYO ballast because we’re going for a dive

WHEELS OF FORTUNE

38

It’s time to hit the road and experience this beautiful country of ours

BURM’S THE WORD

48

Join us as we travel around the beautiful and mysterious country of Burma

38

12 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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OZDIARY

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EDITORIAL Editor Alex Harmon Staff writer Hugh Radojev Contributors Laura Chubb, Chris Stevens Interns James Beasenvalle, Caitlin Stanway

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Check the mofo lights

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Account manager Justin Steinlauf Sales Executive Mike Ramsden MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland ACCOUNTS Financial controller Trish Bailey Accountant Hannah Waters

TNT MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst PUBLISHER TNT Multimedia Limited PRINTED BY Rural Press NEWS AAP PICTURES Getty Images | Thinkstock | AAP | TNT Images | Tourism Australia | Tourism Victoria | Tourism New South Wales | Tourism NT | Tourism Queensland | Tourism Tasmania | South Australia Tourism | Tourism Western Australia | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji | Justin Steinlauf COVER Thinkstock TNT Magazine , 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 tntdownunder.com General enquiries Phone 02 8332 7500 Fax 02 9690 1314 Email enquiries@tntdownunder.com

MAIN EVENT MONA FOMA HOBART

While this may be billed as Tasmania’s largest contemporary music festival, MONA FOMA (MOFO for short) is about much more than just music. MONA is fast becoming one of Australia’s most important art galleries and the artworks on display get just as big a billing here as the musical artists do. In 2013 a pair of musical legends in David Byrne (of Talking Heads fame) and Elvis Costello will be taking to the stage along with a number of other international acts for what should prove to be one of the biggest and best MOFO’s yet.

Jan 16 – 20. Museum of Old and New Art, Berriedale TAS

mofo.net.au

SALES ENQUIRIES

02 8332 7511 tom@tntdownunder.com

PHONE EMAIL

WHERE TO GET TNT

SEE tntdownunder.com/magazine-location.html for pick-up points

FESTIVAL OF THE VOICE 2013

SUGAR MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL

RAINBOW SERPENT FEST

Celebrate Australia Day in the beautiful and historic surrounds of The Rocks. A free music, culture and food festival designed to excite as well as celebrate all that is best in Australian music, art and cuisine. Aboriginal singer Gurrumul headlines.

Another music and arts festival, this time taking over Melbourne’s beautiful CBD on Australia Day for a feast of music and art. The music side of things will be headlined by American rapper Action Branson to go with beautiful installations.

What was once a festival only for the trance music enthusiasts has blossomed into Australia’s answer to Burning Man. Set in the heart of rural Victoria this five day festival features electronic acts from all over the world as well as a great arts component.

26 Jan The Rocks, Sydney therocks.com

Jan 26 Melbourne CBD, Vic sugarmountain.com

Jan 25 – 28 Western Victoria rainbowserpent.net

FREE

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests.

There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered by Australia Post.

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CAMPARI HOUSE

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[Caption]

PUB review by Hugh Radojev

Nestled in a laneway a minute’s walk from Melbourne Central in the heart of the beautiful CBD, Campari House is an elegant example of the sort of cocktail bar/eatery that has made the city famous for its nightlife. The downstairs lounge bar is beautifully furnished with lots of rich dark leather, tungsten lighting and the sort of wood panelling you’d find in a high-end ski lodge somewhere in Europe. The man-cave theme continues on the spacious rooftop area above, where the earthy tones of wood are offset neatly by splashes of green shrubbery and the rich blood orange red of the alcoholic beverage that lends this bar its name.

Saturday night happy hour draws the suit and tie crowd in from nearby office blocks, and being Melbourne, you can expect a few skinny kids in tight jeans.

THE GRUB While Campari House has its own fully licensed restaurant with mains running upwards of $30, the bar menu has everything you need to accompany a few quiet beers. The $18 pizza selection is vast and delicious, particularly the spicy Diavola and the meat-heavy Quatro Carne. Belissimo!

BEHIND THE BAR As you might suspect, the cocktail list is heavy on Campari and at $18, it may be a stretch, but is well worth checking out. You’ll also find all the usual beers, wines and spirits that you might require.

BILL PLEASE Local beers start at $6; house wines and spirits start at $8.

VERDICT A great place to start the night with a pizza and beers under the stars!

THE SCENE

23-25 Hardware Lane, Melbourne.

3 OF THE BEST BRITISH-STYLE PUBS 6

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camparihouse.com.au

LORD NELSON

THE HERO

THE DUDLEY

For starters the Nelson is Sydney’s oldest licensed hotel having been established in 1841. Set in the beautiful Rocks precinct by the Harbour this wonderful old sandstone pub comes complete with great food, fireplaces, Nelsonian paraphernalia on the walls and its very own brewery out the back. Lovely!

Just a stumble down the hill from the Nelson, the Hero (full name Hero of Waterloo) is also made from beautiful, hand cut Sydney sandstone.

But there the similarities end, whereas the Nelson is grandiose and large the Hero is pokey and dark. Great live music on the weekends, and a top selection of beers make it well worth a visit.

The Lord Dudley set in the heart of leafy Paddington is one of Australia’s best English style pubs. This eastern suburbs landmark made its name by being the perfect place to sink a few pints of Guiness, digesting a steak and kidney pie with a few quick ends of darts and the Rugby on in the background.

lordnelsonbrewery.com

heroofwaterloo.com.au

lorddudley.com.au

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BITE SIZE POLE POSITION The newest Potts Point eatery Monopole is something of a metaphor for the suburb itself. Much like its Macleay Street surroundings, the restaurants interior is très chic, all dark wood and gleaming industrial metals and yet the prices are much more like something you’d expect in nearby Kings Cross, on the main strip anyway.

Owned by the guys behind the hugely successful Bentley Bar, this place ticks all the right boxes. The food is both delicious and affordable as well as being beautifully complimented by a vast wine list. If grape juice isn’t your thing, the bar is fully stocked with everything else you may need. monopolesydney.com.au

IN THE DOCK Anybody remember the Beer Baron?

He was a gentleman who for a nominal fee would deliver booze to you at any hour of the day or night. That was until the police shut him down. Well anyway, The Dock is his relatively new bar in Redfern and it’s cool without being pretentious. The reclaimed furniture is comfy, the lighting dim and the walls peeling – suiting the location perfectly. The beer’s good too.

182 Redfern St, Redfern.

NEW HOME Set in the what used to be the old Gaff, new club MyHouse does a fine job replacing it. During the week the venue gears its nights towards the student and backpacker crowd and on the weekends things get even crazier! myhousenightclub.com.au

BODHI FOOD review by Alex Harmon

By day, in the heavenly surrounds of Hyde Park and St Mary’s Cathedral, you’re in for a unique vegan yum cha experience. Sheltered by Moreton Bay fig trees, with the tranquil sounds of church bells on the hour and wait staff who stroll leisurely by with trays of food, you’ll feel a calmness that the hustle and bustle of your usual grand ballroom style room yum cha just can’t deliver. And sitting al fresco in the lackluster, nebulous city, no less!

THE GRUB Steamed Bbq Bread Buns ($6.50/3) are fluffy and fresh parcels with sweet, smoky goodness inside. Keep in mind that Buddhist vegans cannot eat onion, chives and garlic, ingredients found in most yum cha restaurants, so it’s a stripped back experience, which does call for sweet and sour condiments – which thankfully they do well. Steamed Carrot Ginger Gow Dumplings ($6.50/3) hit high notes, as do the Spinach Spring Rolls ($7.50/4) served with a light orange and lemon sauce. For something that screams: “I can’t believe it’s not frowned upon by vegans” try the Satay Salad of sprouts, mint, basil in a tofu pocket ($7.50/3). It’s nuts.

BEHIND THE BAR You could have a pot of jasmine tea or better still, a bottle of Delatite Pinot Gris $40 (it’s not only vegan but also biodynamic and organic) will have you zenned out in no time. (The church bells with help you keep track of time.)

BILL PLEASE While you’re chilling it might be hard to keep track of the stamps on your meal ticket but you’re looking at around $30-$40 each including wine. Less if you’re taking your Buddhist -inspired new year’s resolutions seriously.

VERDICT Perfect for escaping the rat race and blissing out under fig trees with guiltfree food. Even the most hardened of meat-eaters will enjoy themselves.

THE SCENE

Cook & Philip Park, 2-4 College Street, Sydney

bodhi.id.au

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GIGLISTINGS

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Alabama Shakes $45 The Metro, Sydney ticketek.com.au

FRIDAY 18 Big Day Out From $165 Sydney Olympic Park ticketmaster.com.au Nicky Romero TBA Marquee, Star Casino ticketek.com.au

DON’T MISS!

Sticky Fingers From $11 Northcote Social Club, Melb northcotesocialclub.com.au

WEEZER Melbourne. Jan 16. From $99 One of the 1990s most iconic bands returns to Australia for the first time in the best part of a decade with all the classic hits Sidney Myer Music Bowl

MONDAY 14

ticketmaster.com The Killers $54.50 The Metro, Sydney metrotheatre.com.au

Nightwish $83.10 Palace Theatre, Melbourne palace.com.au

Wreck Free Carriageworks, Sydney carriageworks.com.au

TUESDAY 15 David Byrne + St Vincent $89 Arts Centre, Melbourne artscentremelbourne.com.au

THURSDAY 17 JEFF the Brotherhood $27.50 The Standard, Syd wearethestandard.com.au

The Story So Far $26 Corner Hotel, Melbourne cornerhotel.com

Crystal Castles $60.50 Hi-Fi, Sydney hifi.com.au

Boys of Summer 2013 $36 Oasis Youth Centre, Wyong ticketek.com.au

WEDNESDAY 16

Against Me Free The Manning Bar, Sydney manningbar.com

Animal Collective $64.10 Enmore Theatre, Syd enmoretheatre.com.au

OFF! $44.90 The Annandale, Sydney annandalehotel.com

Childish Gambino From $65 The Standard, Syd wearethestandard.com.au

Jimmy Barnes From $64.95 TRAK Bar, Melbourne ticketek.com.au

Mickey Finn and Shabba D From $15 Chinese Laundry, Sydney chineselaundryclub.com

SATURDAY 19 Sugar Mountain Festival TBA The Forum, Melbourne sugarmountainfestival.com.au Gary Clark Jr $33 The Factory Theatre, Sydney carriageworks.com.au Bloody Beetroots $71.70 The Enmore, Sydney enmore.com.au Sleigh Bells $60 The Metro, Sydney metro.com.au Death Grips $42.50 Oxford Arts Factory, Sydney carriageworks.com.au

SUNDAY 20 Paul Clement and Mark Wells Free Latitude 30, Coffs Harbour lat30.com.au A Place to Bury Strangers $35 The Corner Hotel, Melbourne corner.ticketscout..com.au

DON’T MISS! SOUNDWAVE FESTIVAL Various Aus. Feb 23-Mar 4. From $165 One of the fastest growing festivals in Oz – first sale tickets sold out this year in record time. Catch Cyprus Hill (pictured) and more.

Australia

soundwavefestival.com

WEDNESDAY 23 Vampire Weekend $85.20 The Metro, Sydney metro.com.au

The Waterboys $79.90 Theatre Centre, Canberra tcanberratheatrecentre.com

SATURDAY 26

THURSDAY 24 John Farnham From $129 The Star Event Centre, Sydney showbiz.com.au Dubfx $25 The Hi-Fi, Brisbane hifi.com.au

FRIDAY 25 Half Moon Run $15 The Standard, Sydney wearethestandard.com.au Elvis Costello From $99 The Palais Theatre, Melb ticketmaster.com.au

Richard Hawley TBA Old Museum, Brisbane ticketek.com.au Woods $30.70 Goodgod Small Club, Sydney moshtix.com.au Festival of the Voice Free The Rocks, Sydney therocks.com

SUNDAY 27 Hermitude $28.60 The Zoo, Brisbane thezoo.com Keith Urban From $99 Brisbane Entertainment Centre ticketek.com.au

BOOK NOW!

Jazz in the Gardens Free Central Park, Melbourne jazzinthepark.com.au

MONDAY 21 Dirty Projectors From $45 The Opera House, Sydney sydneyfestival.org.au

BOOK NOW!

TUESDAY 22

ST JEROME’S LANEWAY FESTIVAL Singapore, Various Aus. Jan 26 – Feb 9. $140 Australia’s fastest growing festival goes around again with one of the biggest and best line ups yet including Yeasayer and Alt-J. Various, Australia

8

lanewayfestival.com

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Foals $59.40 Oxford Arts Factory, Sydney moshtix.com.au Band of Horses $67.50 The Enmore, Sydney ticketeks.com.au

PINK Nationwide. Jun 25 – Aug 10. $99 One of the biggest singers in the world, Pink is returning to Australian shores with a brand new show for you to enjoy.

Australia

showbiz.com.au

PUBLISTINGS

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SYDNEY PUBS Scruffy Murphy’s 43-49 Goulburn St, Sydney scruffymurphys.com.au

Voodoo Lounge 174 James St, Northbridge voodoolounge.com.au

HAPPY HOUR!

The Shed 69-71 Aberdeen St Northbridge, the-shed.com.au

Cock ‘n’ Bull Hotel 1/89 Ebley St, Bondi Junction cocknbull.com.au

Mint Nightclub Cnr Lake and James St, Northbridge mintnightclub.com

Tea Garden’s 2-4 Bronte Rd, Bondi Junction teagardenshotel.com.au

Leederville Hotel 742 Newcastle St, Leederville East Perth leedervillehotel.com.au

Scary Canary 469 Kent St, Sydney scarycanarybar.com.au Side Bar 509 Pitt St, Sydney wakeup.com.au/side-bar Scubar 4/11-23 Rawson Place, Sydney scubar.com.au Bar Century Lvl 4 640, George St Sydney barcentury.com.au 3 Wise Monkeys 555 George St, Sydney 3wisemonkeys.com.au Candy’s Apartment 22 Bayswater Road, Potts Point candys.com.au World Bar 24 Bayswater Road, Potts Point theworldbar.com.au Greenwood Hotel 36 Blue St, North Sydney greenwoodhotel.com The Beresford 345 Bourke St, Surry Hills merivale.com.au/theberesfordhotel Oxford Art Factory 38-46 Oxford St, Darlinghurst oxfordartfactory.com White Revolver Cnr Curlewis + Campbell Parade Bondi Beach whiterevolver.com Pontoon Cockle Bay Wharf 201, Darling Harbour pontoonbar.com Hotel Steyne 75 The Corso, Manly hotelsteyne.com.au New Brighton Hotel 71 The Corso, Manly newbrighton.com.au In Situ 34/18 Sydney Rd, Manly insitumanly.com.au Four Pines 29/43-45 East Esplanade, Manly 4pines.com.au Marlborough Hotel 145 King St, Newtown marlboroughhotel.com.au

BRISBANE PUBS SOSUEME AT THE BEACH ROAD HOTEL Beach Rd Hotel, Sydney. Wednesday Nights Having recently called the Oxford Arts Factory and Standard home, SOSUEME brings the ruckus to this Bondi institution.

71 Beach Rd, Bondi

GPO Hotel 740 Anne St, Fort Valley gpohotel.com.au

Palace Theatre palace.com.au

Canvas Club 16b Logan St, Woolloongabba canvasclub.com.au

The Hi-Fi 125 Swanston Street Melbourne thehifi.com.au

The Fringe Bar Cnr Ann and Constance St fringebar.com.au

The Bondi Hotel 178 Campbell Parade, Bondi hotelbondi.com.au

The Tote 67-71 Johnston Street, Collingwood thetotehotel.com

Port Office Hotel 40 Edwards St, Brisbane portofficehotel.com.au

Kinsela’s 383 Bourke St, Darlinghurst kniselas.com.au

Eden Bar and Nightclub 163 Russell Street, Melbourne edenbar.com.au

Flinders Hotel 63 – 65 Flinders St, Surry Hills theflindershotel.com.au

Turf Bar 131 Queen St Melbourne turfbar.com.au

White Horse Hotel 381 Crown St, Surry Hills thewhitehorse.com.au

Fluid Oz Bar 450 Elizabeth Street Melbourne yelp.com.au

Coogee Palace 169 Dolphin St, Coogee beachpalacehotel.com.au Beach Road Hotel 71 Beach Road, Bondi Beach beachroadbondi.com.au

MELBOURNEPUBS Central Lion Hotel 3/221 La Trobe St, Melbourne acemelbourne.com.au/mclion/ Shamiana 420 Lonsdale St, Melbourne shamiana.com.au Star Bar Hotel Melbourne 160 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne starbarhotel.com.au The Apartment Nightclub 401 Little Bourke Street Melbourne theapartment.com.au Cherry Bar 103 Flinders Lane Melbourne myspace.com/cherrybarmelbourne Corner Hotel 57 Swan Street Richmond cornerhotel.com

East Brunswick Club The Imperial 280 Lygon St 35 Erskineville Road, Erskineville Brunswick East eastbrunswickclub.com theimperialhotel.com.au

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beachroadbondi.com.au

Hotel LA 68 Petrie Terrace, Brisbane hotella.com.au

The Norfolk 305 Cleveland St, Redfern thenorfolk.co

Esplanade Hotel 11 The Esplanade, St Kilda espy.com.au

The Vanguard 42 King St, Newtown thevanguard.com.au

Northcote Social Club 301 High Street Northcote northcotesocialclub.com

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Bar Humbug 586 Little Bourke St Melbourne barhumbug.com.au Eurotrash Bar 18 Corrs Lane Melbourne eurotrashbar.com.au The Night Owl 35 Elizabeth Street Melbourne nightowl.com.au

Sky Room 2/234 Wickham St, Fort Valley skyroom.com.au Bravo Bar Brunswick Central, 455 Brunswick St Fortitude Valley hotelbravo.com.au

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SURFERS PUBS Blush Nightclub 21 Orchid Avenue Surfers Paradise blushnightclub.com.au Benowa Tavern 117 Ashmore Rd, Benowa surfersbeergarden.com Shooters Superclub Shop 46 The Mark Orchid Avenue Surfers Paradise shooterssuperclub.com

CAIRNS PUBS P.J. O’brien’s 87 Lake St, Cairns pjobriens.com.au Fabric Cnr Shields and Esplanade St cairnsevents.com pubs Rattle N Hum 65-67 Esplanade rattlenhumbar.com Gilligan’s Backpacker Hostel 57-89 Grafton St gilligansbackpackerhostel.com.au

HOBART PUBS Syrup Nightclub 39 Salamanca Pl, Battery Point syrupclub.com.au Republic Bar 299 Elizabeth St, Hobart republicbar.com.au Isobar 11 Franklin Wharf Hobart isobar.com.au

The Met Nightclub 256 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley themet.com.au Knopwood’s Retreat 39 Salamanca Pl The Exchange Hotel Hobart 131 Edward St, Brisbane (03)6223 5808 theexchange.com.au Iceworks Cnr Given Tce & Dowse St, Paddington iceworks.com.au

The Duke 192 Macquarie Street Hobart theduke.com.au

HAPPY HOUR

ADELAIDE PUBS Red Square Bar and Lounge 111 Hindley St, Adelaide rsq.com.au Electric Circus 17 Crippen Place, Adelaide electriccircus.com.au Crown and Sceptre Hotel 308 King William Street, Adelaide sceptre.com.au The Promethean 116 Grote St, Adelaide theprom.com Club 58 58 Hindley St, Adelaide club58.com.au

PERTH PUBS The Subiaco Hotel 465 Hay Street, Subiaco subiacohotel.com.au

THE COLONEL LIGHT HOTEL Adelaide. Open everyday.

This picturesque Adelaide hotspot puts on the best Sunday sessions anywhere in the state. Friday nights are 2 for $10 Jager bombs.

141 Currie Street, Adelaide

colonellighthotel.com

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Ready, set, go Oz electronic duo The Presets return with Pacifica, their first album in over four years... but don't hold time against them WORDS HUGH RADOJEV

Photos: Beau Grealy, Getty Images

"You know just once I’d like someone to say to me before an interview, 'hey, I’ve listened to your new album and I’ve got to say, I fucking hate it!’” Oh dear, I’ve not even asked Kim Moyes – one half of the hugely successful Australian dance music duo The Presets – my first question and I already feel like a complete and utter fan boy.

I open the interview telling Moyes how much I have enjoyed the group’s latest musical offering, Pacifica, which dropped towards the end of last year. He laughs and then continues, “I mean, obviously, if someone did say that to me I’d be absolutely devastated, but it’d definitely be more interesting, you know?" Then, realising that he has stung my feelings, he says kindly, “I’m really glad that you like it, man.

That means a lot.”

And hey, maybe it doesn’t mean anything to him, but then again maybe it means the world. Kim Moyes does a lot of interviews, and this is just his way of staying sane. He’s just yanking my chain.

I know this because he does it again when our chat turns to why it took Pacifica the best part of five years to be released after 2008's hugely successful Apocalypso, whose mammoth singles dominated that year’s best-of lists, party anthems and DJ sets for what seemed like an endless summer. I was 18 going on 19, and it was a blissful time.

“In terms of its sonic palette, Pacifica is probably your most intricate effort yet,” I say, trying to sound really knowledgeable and full of journalistic integrity. “Is that perhaps why it took so long to come out, after Apocalypso?”

Again, I am taken a bit aback when my question is met with fits of laughter. “Oh, that’s funny, man! I’ve just got this image in my head of you sitting there on the floor next to the mail slot waiting for the album to drop into your lap with a little tear running down your cheek,” he laughs. “It didn’t take that long to come out did it?”

While it might not have seemed like a particularly long time for either Moyes or The Presets’ other member Julian Hamilton, the four year gap between albums has been compounded by an almost three year wait between live performances on Australian soil. This has been a shock for an

“

It didn't take that long to come out did it?

”

Australian musical landscape once saturated in The Presets' music. For years the group had been all but unavoidable due to their string of gargantuan hits.

“Songs like those [My People, Talk Like That and even Are you the One? from their 2006 debut Beams] probably got overplayed by, not just the radio stations, but by everyone.

You heard them on advertisements, in cars driving past, in department stores, everywhere really until people just couldn’t get away and by then it had become too much!

People just needed a break.”

Moyes – unlike other jaded musicians – doesn’t resent the more successful of his creations, saying that he and Hamilton are “very grateful to those songs. We certainly can’t complain about them.”

The fact of the matter is that, in Australia anyway, Apocolypso was ridiculously successful: triple platinum sales, numerous ARIA awards including Album of the Year, five hit singles, sold-out headline shows at some of the biggest festivals and venues in the country. In other words: fullblown super-stardom and all that jazz.

I suppose that Kim and Julian could be forgiven their tardiness in putting out a follow-up to such an enormously successful record, considering the huge weight of pressure they must have been under making it? “It wasn’t that so much, we just kind of wanted the dust to settle a bit after the last record, get a clear playing field with the new one.”

Of course, wrong again… What would I know anyway?

“We didn’t want to reinvent the wheel on this album, it has still got a lot of the same sort of themes that we had in Apocalypso. We are, after all, still trying to make music

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Moyes performs during the Rock All Night Concert Series in Sydney, 2009 people can dance to.”

Yes they are, and they’ve done an excellent job with Pacifica. Songs on the album like It’s Cool, Push and the euphoric single Promises are just three of the more fist-pump inducing examples I’ve picked at random off an album of extremely catchy dance tunes.

Yet, the thing I found most interesting about this album is that while they have kept some of Apocalypso’s themes, they’ve utilised them more artfully. Pacifica is an album that has been thoughtfully arranged and composed by classically trained musicians, as opposed to simply cobbled together by a couple of electro-heads with the soul intention of getting the front couple of rows at a festival sweaty. This is a collection of songs that seem to have started life as chords on a grand piano – not sequences on a computer.

Youth in Trouble – the album’s opener – on first listen seems to be just a solid wall of noise, but after a few spins it reveals itself to be a consummately constructed build, where every synthesizer arpeggio and drum machine rim shot is painstakingly and architecturally layered upon. This is less of a song and more of an oil painting.

While the epic slow burner A.O goes the other way, peeling away the beautiful veneer of its subject to reveal the seedier side of Sydney: the drugs, the violence and the poverty. For Moyes the song is as much a wake up call to its citizens as it is a love song about his home town.

“We love Sydney, we grew up here and we will probably always live here, but a lot of bullshit gets said about the place that isn’t true. Yet the people who live here go along with it, for whatever reason.”

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The spiky synthesizers and the simian chanting on the refrain sound as exciting and unsettling as anything The Presets have ever done.

There’s also a sea shanty on the album (Ghosts), a few piano ballads, and what seems to be a good deal more live instrumentation, particularly in the percussion.

The content of Hamilton’s lyrics seem also to have improved; he appears to be using his words to convey actual poetic meaning this time around, as opposed to just wanting them to sound good as they're shouted back at him from the dance floor.

It’s a bit of a shame then that Pacifica won’t ever be as commercially successful as its predecessor, which has prompted some cretins to label it a bad album, even a failure. However, I’m of the opinion that if improving the way you structure your songs, cutting down on the 80s throwback cheesiness, and generally making a better album than your previous two is ‘a failure’ then what’s the point in succeeding anyway? Besides, it seems that the target audience are still into it.

“We played Parklife in September and it was great to see that so many people were still interested in coming out to see us after a few years away,” says Moyes. The duo headlined the 2012 festival and received positive reactions to the new album material.

“Yeah, the crowd seemed to like it, which is always good!”

The Presets are touring Australia in February with their new material for the first time since 2009 and I, for one, will be there with bells on. I like to think that’s what Kim Moyes would want.

Or not. I can’t really tell with that guy anymore. ❚

Catch The Presets in Adelaide (Feb 5), Melbourne (Feb 7) Sydney (Feb 12) and Brisbane (Feb 16). thepresets.com

ARE YOU SPOTTED IN THE CIRCLE?

WIN

Email us at tom@ tntdownunder.com with ‘Spotted’ in the subject line, email must include a photo of yourself! Boom You’ve won yourself 2 free tickets for the Thursday party bus with oz party facebook/ Like us on tntdownunder for more party pics from the night!

TNT & OZ PARTY CRUISE Christmas Eve 2012

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15

CHATROOM

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Alan Fletcher Television’s favourite medical practitioner, Dr Karl Kennedy of Neighbours fame talks to us about his love of music, being “married” to Susan, and his brief affair with garden gnomes INTERVIEW ALEX HARMON

Yep, that’s going well and we were thrilled that the backpacker night actually won the Golden Backpack Award the other night for ‘Best Backpacker Night in Victoria’. My band’s been playing since 2004 at the night and I go virtually every Monday and still love doing it. There’s obviously been a bit of a drop off in tourism, particularly in the backpacker market, but we still have a very loyal audience.

What’s been your favourite story line?

There’s so many. There’s the big stories, like with Sarah Beaumont – we had an affair for two years behind Susan’s back and she lost it severely with me. That was a story that attributed to revitalising Neighbours in the 90s. I also loved working with Natalie Bassingthwaighte who played Izzy – working with her was divine. But one of my favourite’s was when Karl began stealing garden gnomes.

Alan Fletcher with his band, The Waiting Room

Hi Karl, did you enjoy your gig at the Golden Backpack Awards last year?

I did! It was so good to get up and close with everybody, we had a terrific night. The audience seemed to really love it.

Would you say your passion lies in music or acting?

Well, I combine the two, I don’t see them as different. They’re both just forms of entertaining, really. I call myself a performer, rather than an actor or musician. I love the fact that music is just the same as acting – it’s telling a story.

You’ve gotta be one of the longest running characters on TV. I’m getting close, Lou Carpenter is just ahead of me but he is a bit more part time now, so if I wanted to get technical, I could probably argue that I am the longest running character.

Ever feel like you’re living a double life?

I do feel like it’s a double life because I spend so much time here and I’ve got a wife and a

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family on set, and then of course I go through the same thing at home. I live about a 45 minute drive from work so I find that during that drive I switch back into the real world.

Do you and Susan feel like a married couple?

We kind of behave like a married couple in that we finish each other’s sentences, we share a similar sense of humour and we have a great time together. At the end of the day, we just happen to have a very close friendship.

Why do Brits relate so much to the show?

Well, for a lot of people, Neighbours just about sums up Australia for them. It’s living in a sunny place, with a nice big house and pools, everyone gets on fabulously and everyone knows each other, it’s kind of like the ideal world – although some bad things do happen. There’s a lovely, lighthearted touch that a lot of other soaps don’t have. It’s not all doom and gloom.

Do you still do the backpacker nights?

Um, I don’t recall that one...

Well Karl was going through a very heavy time at work, but away from work, all the garden gnomes were going missing and no one could work out why. It turned out Karl was stealing them. I had to make up a complex story to justify it to myself. So I said I was part of this group at Uni called the ‘Misnomers’. It was quite fun.

How long do you think you have left?

Well it comes down to what the producers want year on year. And also how long the public can hang in with Neighbours. I know we have a long term commitment with the TV channels and I suspect the show could be around for quite some time. And if they ask me to stay, then I will stay because I love it so much.

Will you have any input on how you go?

If they came to me and said they were gonna let go of the character, I would put my hand up to talk about it. I think it would be kind of cool if Dr Karl got thrown out of the street by all of the people living there because they found out he never actually qualified as a medical practitioner.

Catch Dr Karl at the Official Neighbours night in Victoria (neighbourstour.com.au)

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Ash Grunwald A quick five with the Aussie roots musician....

INTERVIEW HUGH RADOJEV

How would you describe your music?

When I started I was very much influenced by traditional blues music. When I started there was a great blues scene in Melbourne, near where I lived and so that’s how I grew as a musician early on. The longer my career has gone on I’ve begun to incorporate more electronic influences, it keep things interesting.

What’s with the dub-step influences on your new album?

I like big, evil sounding drops and while I don’t necessarily appreciate or understand the overly poppy aspect of a lot of his music, Skrillex really delivers those massive drops. It’s something that I just like, I guess.

Photos: Cardinal Spin Images, Alanfletcher.net

Excited for Festival of the Voice?

Absolutely. It’s in a wonderful location [The Rocks, Sydney Harbour] and there are some fantastically diverse and talented artists on the lineup. Plus it’s on Australia Day! I’m really looking forward to seeing Gurrumul in particular.

Festival or pub/club gig?

Because I tour so much I play a lot of pub gigs and they’re definitely fun, but you can’t beat the rush of headlining a festival and playing to a big crowd.

Did you finish the song you were writing for that Arnie movie?

I was really bummed out because I wrote something, the producers seemed to like it, but in the end they went with someone else.

Catch Ash Grunwald at Sydney’s Festival of the Voice (the rocks.com.au) on January 26 (Australia Day)

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FILMREVIEW

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THE HOBBIT FILM review by James Besanvalle STARRING: Martin Freeman, Ian McKellend, Richard Armitage | M | 169 min

QUARTET FILM review by Caitlin Stanway Maggie Smith, Billy Connolly, Tom Courtney, Michael Gambon | PG | 98mins

Set in a retirement home for the crèmede-la-crème of classical music, the incredible (and mostly geriatric) cast of The Quartet take you on journey of memory loss, music and broken hearts.

While not a musical per-se classical music is the superstar as the old folks take sing-alongs to a whole new level.

Seriously touching and very funny. Your nanna will love this one!

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It was never going to rival the success of The Lord of the Rings trilogy, but just like the underdog Hobbit featured in this film, it tries its very best to impress.

Ground breaking 48-frames-per-second technology aims to add a new dimension to the film (both literally and figuratively) but sadly, appears more like video game graphics. There are some scenes like the opening storyline that lend itself comfortably to this fantasy medium, but a lot of scenes just seem to lack realism.

The storyline follows a great wizard known as Gandalf the Grey (Ian McKellend) who chooses an undaring hobbit by the name of Bilbo Baggins (Martin Freeman) for a long and ‘unexpected adventure’. The quest aims to reclaim a fortress that was taken by a dragon many years ago, who now resides within the chambers of gold.

The movie is an extremely long and sometimes stagnant journey... and watching it was much the same. There just doesn’t seem like enough meat from the book to sustain three movies and this first one spends too much time setting up storylines that will no doubt be made more prominent in the sequels.

As the premise technically precedes the events prominent within The Lord of the Rings, there will be a lot of lightbulb moments for fans who have seen the previous films. But it just seems like the storyline doesn’t offer as much, and often drifts into scenes that don’t seem to eventuate into anything substantial.

The action is broken up with light-hearted humour throughout and a few sneaky songs. It’s worth seeing, and as Gandalf says, “You’ll have a tale or two to tell when you come back.”

GOOD FOR: People who think 3D glasses are trendy

SIC, L MU AL T IONA ERNA YLE FEST IV 25-28 T IN T 4 DAY LIFES - JANUARY D N A RIA ARTS VICTO FORT, BEAU

MASSIVE ELECTRONIC LINEUP:

INTERNATIONAL y GUY J y HARDFLOOR y TIM HEALEY y PETER VAN HOESEN y NATHAN FAKE y CHRISTIAN SMITH y AUDIOJACK y LISH y PROMETHEUS y OLIVER KOLETZKI y FM RADIO GODS y ECLIPTIC y THE COMMERCIAL HIPPIES y YOTOPIA y ANTIX / FIORD y DEEDRAH y EELKE KLEIJN y AES DANA y TRIPSWITCH y YOUNGER BROTHER DJ y MATTHEW DEKAY y TRANSWAVE y SHIFT y HALTYA y yy FILASTINE FI (with NOVA) y HYPNOTECH y NEUROPLASM yy CHRISTOF C CH ABSOLUM y SONIC SPECIES y LUNAR SOUND y CABALLERO y RULS & NAVARRO y LOVE AND LIGHT y Q y QUANTA y KALDEN BESS y AKASHA y DAYAN & JOHN y D-SENS y STEREO TALK y DOMESTIC y OPIUO y MR BILL y D Dy TERRAFRACTYL y SPOONBILL y OZZY y SENSEINT y BBLA LA ATWA AT WAX WA X y JPS (THE OPERATIVES) y SIMON SLEIKER y STEVE WARD y BLATWAX y JPS y THE TH HE MOLLUSK y GRIFF y HANS DC y KALYA SCINTILLA y HYPNAGOG y INTERPULSE y THANKYOU CITY y MOTE y ANDREW TILL y & MORE

LIVE BANDS @ THE PLAYGROUND:

y TZU y OSAKA MONOAURAL y NAHKO & MEDICINE FOR THE PEOPLE y CELLOJOE y OKA y DIAFRIX y TALL WILL’S ELECTRO SWING SHOW y JUDGE PINO & THE RULING MOTIONS y GANG OF BROTHERS y RIVERTRIBE y SCHOOL OF DUB y SPYNDRIFT y VOICE OF TREES y COMBAT WOMBATy 8 FOOT FELIX y KINGFISHA y REFLEJOS y CHANT DOWN SOUND y TEK TEK ENSEMBLE y & MORE

TICKETS ON SALE NOW www.rainbowserpent.net TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

19

LIFESTYLELIVING TRAVEL

MATES

Hotelscombined compares hotel prices hotelscombined.com

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Top five travel apps Make the iPhone your best travel buddy with these worldly apps WORDS KEVIN LIPPY

Tripit Your one-stop travel planner – better than a diary!

Although TNT should be your travel bible, we can’t ignore technology and how it makes travel just so damn easy.

So ditch those heavy guide books and get ‘appy with our top five travel apps.

tripit.com

Yelp!

Wehostels Hostel booking and mingling with other travellers wehostels.com

I’m the kind of traveler who can think of nothing worse than ticking off places listed in the Lonely Planet and I absolutely loathe going places where there are more tourists than locals. Now I have Yelp!, a directory of literally thousands of local activities, restaurants, nightclubs and heaps of other things to do, all recommended and reviewed by locals. Yelp! takes things to another level due to the shear amount of reviewed listings, and the ability to easily search for things nearby. It also cleanly displays listings with everything you need to know such as a summary, price range, photos, opening hours etc. So, the next time you are searching for ‘the best pint in Perth’ or ‘the best sangria in Seville, Yelp! has your back!

Tripit

Yelp Hot tips on absolutely everything from locals yelp.com

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If you are a habitual traveler and absolutely useless human being when it comes to getting organised, you need Tripit. This app helps you organise everything travelrelated in one centralized location. It syncs

your trip itinerary, booking confirmation emails, calendar events, social feeds and transport information all onto one platform.

So you have all the important travel info in one place at all times, without having to switch between apps while you are on the run. It uses geo-location technology to automatically detect your location and environment and serve you up relevant and accurate info such as local time, weather, and traffic information based on where you are.

Wehostels This funky hostel-booking app (that is powered by hostelworld.com) targeted at travellers who want to connect with other travellers and explore new places together.

You will find profiles of other travellers who will be staying at the same hostel and a chat history of residents that gives you a sense of the social vibe of the hostel. It is also an alternative way for you to meet and mingle with other travelers kind of like Couchsurfing or Meetup. Wehostels also engages its community by rewarding users with $10 in travel cash when they successfully refer the app to other fellow travellers. It’s like getting three beers during happy hour!

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LIFESTYLELIVING ABOUT THE WRITER Kevin Lippy is a backpacker who loves creating apps. His latest app called ‘Knocked App’ (knockedapp.com) allows users to instantly ‘knock up’ their friends photographically, giving the appearance of being nine months pregnant’. He is an original member of Travel Massive (travelmassive.com) a world-wide community of locally organised meet ups for travel companies and bloggers and is currently building ‘Brokepacker’ which allows backpackers to be rewarded for referring others to tours and activities etc.

Backpacker Love

by Cameron Wakefield

Ever tried sending a old school postcard while on a bus or a boat? Well the iPhone Postcard App sends an old-school postcard, anywhere in the world for $4.90.

You have the option to use photos of your own, or photos from the library of donated photos by other backpackers. Whist the card gets you brownie points with your family and friends, all proceeds after the printing and postage go to causes that are struggling for funding like the Sonrisen Orphanage in Peru, Lao Kids, Thembalithsa in South Africa or Reconnecting Children to Nature in Columbia. You know your Mum will love it!

spread the love

Photos: Kevin Lippy

Hotelscombined When it comes to comparing hotel prices all over the board, no one does it better than our very own, homegrown HotelsCombined booking website. Their hotel-booking app, ‘i Find Hotels’ rocks because it is ad free, multilingual, covers over 220 countries and has more than 2 million deals from its affiliate networks like Hotelclub, Expedia, Agoda, and Booking.com. It will tell you the different prices advertised, all conveniently consolidated in this single app. When I’m traveling on a budget nothing pisses me off more than finding out that I got screwed over because someone else got the same tour or accommodation package I did for cheaper. With i Find Hotels, prices are a whole lot more transparent so you can ensure you are getting the best price in town.

Backpacker Love is a community of travellers making a social impact.

Our goal is to raise money and awareness of worthy causes like the environment, health care, education and the ongoing global development of our world. We do this by collecting donated images and stories that cost nothing to create and yet can be used to help those in need.

Please join us, together we can make a difference.

backpackerlove.com search “Backpacker Love” @backpackerlove

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21

NEWSREVIEW

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Spotted: lost above NZ?

‘UFO’ CRUISES OVER BAY OF ISLANDS

NEW ZEALAND

A Kiwi man has claimed he spotted a UFO nonchalantly cruising over the Bay of Islands last week.

Rob Clarke insisted he was under the influence of no more than a cup of tea, but could not explain the pair of lights he saw moving across the sky outside his Paihia home on Sunday evening.

“I don’t belive in little green men, and the strongest thing I’d had was a cup of tea,” Mr Clarke told the New Zealand Herald. “I’m just interested to know what they were” Mysterious.

MCDONALD’S CHANGES NAME TO MACCA’S

AUSTRALIA

One of the world’s most successful brands, McDonald’s, is changing its store signs to honour the nickname bestowed upon it by Aussies.

Signs on McDonald’s outlets across the country are being changed to read ‘Macca’s’, the name by which the fast food chain is best known Down Under.

“We’ve been a part of Australia for over 40 years now and we’re incredibly proud to embrace our ‘Australian-only’ nickname,” said Mark Lolback, chief marketing officer for McDonald’s Australia. “What better way to show Aussies how proud we are to be a part of the Australian community than by changing our store signs to the name the community has given us?” The new name will be seen at 13 stores in the run up to Australia Day on January 26, before changing back in February.

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Lucky number 13: the year has got off to a flying start for Aussie actor Hugh Jackman, who has been nominated for the best actor award at both the BAFTAs and the Oscars, thanks to a sterling performance in the big screen version of Les Misérables. Naomi Watts also flew the flag by picking up a best actress Oscar nod for The Impossible

FALLING TREE SHOCK KILLS PET FISH SOUTH AFRICA

A South African couple has told of the moment their pet fish died of shock thanks to a falling tree that cut their house clean in half.

KwaZulu-Natal couple Josh and Clair Dinnis said they were lucky to be alive after the tree fell onto their house in Merrivale during a storm. It smashed through the roof and two brick walls, slicing their home into two halves.

Following the incident, the Dinnis’s rushed to do a head count of their pets, which include horses, cats and dogs.

The pair said the animals

were all fine, apart from one unfortunate individual. The fish they had bought just a month earlier sadly did not survive “it died of shock,” Josh told News 24. RIP, Goldie. You will be missed.

Josh added that he wasn’t sure whether the house was insured as he and his wife are renting it.

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THIS WEEK

IN NUMBERS 300 May contain malted hops and bark-ley

Amount, in millions, of mince pies sold by Greggs over Christmas, setting a new record.

You fat bastards!

HAIR OF THE DOG: BEER FOR CANINES

UNITED STATES

The latest craft beer offering from the United States of America has come in the shape of Dawg Grog, a nonalcoholic brew aimed specifically at the burgeoning canine market.

The brainchild behind Dawg Grog, is 32 year old brewer Daniel Keeton who works at the Boneyard Brewery of Bend, Oregon.

The beer itself is made with wort, or spelt grain that Keeton gathers from the shop floor of his day job when it gets left over in the process of making the real beer.

“I’m recycling a product that would otherwise go down the drain,” he said.

“I’ve had a lot of people say dogs love human beer,” he added. “But obviously that’s not good for dogs, so I wanted to make an alternative that’s fun to give to your dog as well as a healthy treat.”

When asked what his brew tasted like, Keeton responded “It’s sweet and kind of caramelly and malty,” before adding that it was best enjoyed on its own or poured over a lovely bowl of dog food.

ALLIGATOR IS FOUND GUARDING WEED STASH

Photos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxx

UNITED STATES

Police in California were forced to face down a five-foot alligator called Mr Teeth during a drugs bust.

Officiers from the Aleameda County sheriff’s department discovered the reptile guarding 15.4kg of marijuana as they carried out a probation check at a property in Castro Valley.

According to NBC News, the gator was found inside a plexiglass tank, and was being used as a deterrent should anyone attempt to get their hands on the weed.

The cops arrested Assif Mayar on

Number of Brazilian prostitutes expected to sign up to free English language courses ahead of the 2014 World Cup

4

Don’t mess with a gator’s ganja suspicion of possessing marijuana for sale.

The drugs had been dried and processed.

Mr Teeth was apparently “very ill” when he was found and has been taken to Oakland Zoo to recuperate. Mayar reportedly acquired Mr Teeth in 1996 to commemorate the death of US rapper Tupac Shakur.

SMOKING SMURFS ARE ASSAULT SUSPECTS AUSTRALIA

Four Smurfs have been arrested over an assault at a Melbourne store.

A Pascoe Vale man was buying cigarettes at a convenience store when he was approached by a man painted blue and dressed as a character from the Eighties cartoon, police said.

The Smurf asked for a cigarette and was offered one, but he demanded the man light it before handing it over. The man refused and was later assaulted.

Police called for the smoking Smurf and three Smurfy mates to come forward over the assault. Four men handed themselves into police after the appeal. They are expected to be charged on summons with assault-related offences, police said.

8.5

Number of cups of tea you should drink every day to reduce the risk of stroke, according to scientists in Stockholm

Price, in millions of pounds, of a penthouse apartment in the new Battersea Power Station luxury development

6

QUOTE OF THE WEEK I’d have [them] dragged to the edge of the village and flogged Serial moaner Morrissey doesn’t mince his words when discussing David and Victoria Beckham with Loaded magazine

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23

SPORTNEWS

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Switch: Cooper to box Muay Thai man

WHO DUNNETT? QUADE COOPER’S PUNCH BAG BOXING/RUGBY Wallabies playmaker Quade Cooper will face Muay Thai veteran Barry Dunnett in his pro boxing debut on February 8 in Brisbane.

The rugby half’s opponent for the KO To Drugs charity card featuring Sonny Bill Williams was finally announced, much to the delight of punters worried Cooper would be given a numpty to batter.

Quite the opposite, Dunnett, 32, is a tough cookie. Despite only having two boxing bouts – a win and a loss – under his belt, he’s previously fought for the Queensland light-heavyweight title for Muay Thai, which allows elbows and kicks.

The Queensland Reds will be happy Dunnett’s not a noted bruiser, though, ahead of the Super 15 season – Cooper will miss one pre-season match but be ready, barring injury, for the season opener against the ACT Brumbies on February 16.

WEIGHT A MINUTE, BIG CAVIAR WILL BE FINE

BRONCOS 2013 COULD BE THE REA-L DEAL

Black Caviar’s trainer Peter Moody has insisted his champion mare’s weight gain – 70kg more than when she raced and won at Royal Ascot last year – won’t derail her return to the track.

“She’s not fat, she’s just a bit overweight,” Moody said of the horse which lost a lot of weight in transit to the UK before a narrow win. “We have got plenty of time to get her fit.”

The winner of 21 races in a row is about 30kg above her normal racing weight but Moody won’t be trying to get her lean for the AU$500,000 Lightning Stakes in February. Black Caviar’s been rested for six months ahead of her tilt at a 22nd victory.

London Broncos coach Tony Rea is sure his side can be a force in the 2013 Super League, starting February.

The Aussie’s love of the city and his ambitions for the club convinced him to accept the top job at the only major team in the capital. Rea’s been a player, chief executive and a reluctant head coach for the club in the past, but he takes on the role full-time now with great optimism.

“We can be the biggest club in the UK,” Rea told the Evening Standard.

“There’s no reason not to [think that] with the people involved here.”

The Broncos season opener is against Widnes Vikings on February 3

HORSE RACING

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Now that would be one hell of a hill start! Ben Grabham of team HSE KTM Australia takes on the Peruvian dunes during the Dakar Rally stage between Pisco and Nazca

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RUGBY LEAGUE

BIG WEEK FOR ...

Bernard Tomic can go from being public enemy number one to Aussie ace in the stroke of a forehand.

After getting dumped from the Davis Cup team for ill discipline, he did his talking on the court and backed up his defeat of world number one Novak Djokovic by going deep into the Sydney International. But what he really wants, and needs to keep his head on straight for, is the Australian Open, which starts this week. If he can make it to the last 16, the 20-year-old is a proven giant killer.

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QUOTES OF THE WEEK

One will do: John Terry would love a 2013 title

Whether they rate me or not I am not sure, but with a lot of the Australians they rate themselves very highly England league legend Kevin Sinfield after it was said an Aussie deserved to win the Golden Boot he was awarded last week

They would be mad to let him leave Chelsea PREVIEW – he’s still one of the DERBY: NORTH AND WEST LONDON GIANTS best in the world PREMIER LEAGUE: CHELSEA V ARSENAL JAN 21, 12.30AM, FOX SPORTS The goal scorers in the corresponding fixture at Stamford Bridge in October 2011 – a 5-3 win to away team Arsenal– make interesting reading.

For the losers Chelsea, goals were scored by John Terry and Frank Lampard, the first of which is likely to return from injury in this match and the other who is being given the flick by the club despite career-best form in his 34th year. The other

was Juan Mata, the superstar Spaniard who when not on the park greatly alters the west London team’s win/loss record.

For Arsenal, it’s a worry. Theo Walcott jagged one, which is nice, as he’s going great guns and likely to get the money he wants to stay at the club. The other four, however, came from Andre Santos, who’s been playing reserves on his way back from injury, and the other three came from a guy called Robin van Persie, who now wears a darker shade of red in Manchester.

Both giants will be chasing silverware of any kind this season and this is a must win.

Photos:Getty

THE CHAT | Lance to harp on Oprah Lance Armstrong’s interview on Oprah Q Will stem his fall from grace and reveal anything we don’t already know?

No and no. Armstrong, once a seven-time Tour de A France champion, has refused to respond to the stripping of his titles for drug cheating, but he’s agreed to do a 90-minute chat with Oprah. She’s insisted there was “no payment for the interview. No editorial control, no question is off-limits”. But sadly, the questions Oprah cares about are devised to elicit emotional TV moments, not real answers about his actions doing immense damage to his sport and a sporting community which worshiped him as a hero.

Italian ace Andrea Pirlo would welcome Frank Lampard at Juventus – apparently Chelsea are mad, he’s being cut loose

I’m unbelievably frustrated, you’d have to go a long way to see worse Harlequins director of rugby Conor O’Shea wasn’t exactly impressed with the ref

TV HIGHLIGHTS CRICKET AUS v Sri Lanka The third match of the ODI series Fri, 1:50pm. Channel 9

FOOTBALL C Coast v Newcastle Jets The race for the A League title heats up Sat, 7:30pm. Fox Sports 1

GOLF Qatar Masters Rd 1 Look who’s talking: Lance Armstrong

The European PGA tour continues Thurs 24th, 9:00pm. Fox Sports 2

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TRAVEL HOTSHOTS | TRAVEL NEWS | TRAVEL DEALS | TRAVEL STORIES | IMAGE OF THE WEEK

THE HEAT IS ON

Photos: Thinkstock, Getty

Sydneysiders flock to Bondi Beach during a heatwave which saw mercury topping 40C. It was the third hottest day in 150 years

INSIDE

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GOING DOWN /32

CARAVAN OF DREAMS /38

BURMESE CATS /48

Want to see what lies beneath? We put our weight belts on and check out Australia’s best scuba diving spots

We think driving is the best way to see the big wide country, so read our guide to buying or renting your very first campervan.

It’s one of the hottest places in the world to visit in 2013 so we sent a writer to explore the historic and happening country of Burma.

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HOTSHOTS

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WEEKLY WINNER THE HARD LIFE: Jan Baeskens, 32, Belgium JAN SAYS: “After one week in the Red Centre we took some time off to chill down at Lake Argyle before heading towards The Kimberley.”

WE SAY: “I’ve never been to Lake Argyle before, but having seen this photograph it’s suddenly shot to the top of my next holiday destination! This place looks absolutely stunning. The contrast in colour between the brilliant red sand that is so synonymous with the Northern Territory and the beautiful calm water of the lake and the pool is absolutely incredible! This is a great photograph! Thanks for sending it in.”

HOT TIPS: Framing Good framing is fundamental to great photography and makes the difference between boredom and fascination. Bear in mind that what you leave out is almost as important as what you include. When shooting, you should think about what it is that makes this scene interesting for you. What caught your eye?

Was it something tangible? A building, perhaps, or doorhandle, even a person? Or was it more abstract: a reflection, a juxtaposition, a perspective? Through the use of proper framing, you are allowing the viewer to see what you saw.

Call it a window of oppurtunity!

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WIN

THE MONTHLY WINNER GETS THREE DAYS CAMPERVAN HIRE FROM MIGHTY CAMPERS

Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description to: hugh@tntdownunder.com. Photos are judged by the TNT team at their own discretion. Photos will also be placed on TNT’s Facebook page. For terms and conditions, see tntdownunder.com.

Weekly winner Jan wins a free night’s stay at the award-winning Sydney Central YHA (yha. com.au). The monthly winner gets three days’ campervan hire from Mighty Campers Australia (mightycampers.com.au)

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ZORBED TO DEATH The sport of Zorbing has become so popular on Russian ski slopes that it will be used as one of the symbols for the next Winter Olympics.

Although this new craze sweeping the nation has been mired by tragedy. One man was killed and another seriously wounded after their zorb ran off course and careered off tje side of a mountain. Sergei Loginov, deputy director of z-orb.ru said that the fatal run contravened the zorbing safety rules. “It’s not even irresponsibility. It’s an experiment on life,” Loginov said.

Photos: Thinkstock

WHAT A DUMP A British family forked out over $6,100 to have a holiday in Tunisia and stay at what they thought was a luxurious four star hotel.

However upon arriving at the hotel, Michelle and Ian Brayford and their three young children found that it was located in a rubbish tip. Not only was the hotel’s outside surrounded by rubbish, the interior of the hotel didn’t exactly live up to its luxury billing. “The rugs in the hotel corridor were wet through and as we walked in, the stench of cat wee hit us.” said Michelle. That place sounds a bit rubbish.

FORGOT SOMETHING? Know that sinking sensation you get when you get back home and suddenly realise you’ve left something essential at the hotel? Keys, maybe, or your wallet? Well, imagine how you would feel if you’d left your breasts behind. That’s what happened to one Travelodge guest, who left her implants in a hotel room. Another forgot a live python last year according to the British budget hotel chain, which has released a list of the strangest items discovered in its rooms.

“Our lost and found departments provide plenty of revelations,” said a spokesman.

VISA-FREE CHINA Time to brush up on your Mandarin, as China has finally lifted its arduous visa restrictions for short stays in Beijing and Shanghai. To the delight of many travellers itching to visit the Far East, Aussies, Kiwis and Brits are among 45 nationalities that will now be allowed to make visa-free visits to both cities for up to three days. It is hoped that the relaxed rules will promote tourism in China’s two key cities. Visitors will require an outbound plane ticket to another country scheduled for a departure within 72 hours. .

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TOPDECK TRAVEL OFFER DETAILS Save 15% on two of Australia’s most iconic trips departing in February! Jump on board Topdeck’s 3 day Melbourne to Sydney Great Alpine way adventure OR our choose famous 3 day Adelaide to Melbourne Great Ocean Road experience and save!

DESTINATION Adelaide to Melbourne (www.topdeck.travel/ australia-trips/jma3r/southerncross-reverse). Melbourne to Sydney (www.topdeck.travel/australia-trips/ jsm3r/top-to-bottom-reverse) DATES All dates departing in February PRICE & HOW TO BOOK Check out our website www.topdeck.travel or contact your nearest travel agent.

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Dive another day From spectacular underwater shipwrecks to the world’s most famous reef, Australia has some of the world’s best diving WORDS ALEX HARMON

There’s nothing quite like taking your first breaths under water. That reassuring noise of bubbles and the giddy excitement of knowing you shouldn’t, but you can. And there’s the thrilling weightlessness – surely similar to being an astronaut. And all that’s before you get to see the brilliant inhabitants of the rainbow-coloured underwater wonderland that awaits; full of shapes, colours and sights you didn’t think could possibly exist.

If you’re a beginner, taking your 32

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first step is easy. PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) courses typically take two to four days and range from introductory experiences to instructor levels, giving you the freedom to explore the other 70 per cent of our planet. There are loads and loads of PADI Dive Centres and Resorts across Oz (for info, visit padi.com) and needless to say, Australia offers some of the very finest scuba diving – and some of the best facilities – in the world.

Where? Well, there are simply too many excellent dive and snorkel sites to mention them all here, so we’ve narrowed them down to our top 10.

While you can don a snorkel and see some spectacular sights just about anywhere off the Aussie coast, the following 10 are what we consider world-beaters, either for their unique conditions, plentiful wildlife or sheer scale. Keen divers should try to see as many of these as possible before they head on out of the country.

NINGALOO REEF IN A NUTSHELL Better than the Great Barrier Reef?

TELL ME MORE This area is protected by the government, preserving its ecosystem of over 500 species of fish, whales, whale sharks (April to July), manta rays, turtles and dugongs. There’s also a spectacular reef only 100 metres offshore with far less people than the GBR. A bloody treasure, mate...

WHERE The closest main town is Exmouth, Western Australia. Some of the best areas of the marine park for diving are Bundegi Beach and Turquoise Bay.

One of the Ningaloo’s big friendly giants

LORD HOWE ISLAND IN A NUTSHELL Dive the world’s southernmost coral reef.

TELL ME MORE Like Byron Bay, Lord Howe Island offers both tropical and temperate waters. The island hosts so much marine diversity, and incomparable beauty, that it has been World Heritage listed. It’s renowned for its pristine, pollution-free environment, providing some of the most pure diving waters in the world.

WHERE Lord Howe is two hours by air from Sydney and Brisbane. It’s admittedly more expensive to get to than some of the other options, but it may well be worth it.

Soakin’ up some rays...

BYRON BAY IN A NUTSHELL Where tropical meets temperate.

TELL ME MORE Julian Rocks Marine Reserve lies at the intersection of southerly and northerly currents, creating the unique blend of warm and cold water, which allows a variety of marine life to thrive. In summer months you’re likely to come across leopard sharks. They’re very distinctive-looking and, thankfully, aren’t too bothered by humans. You can also spot whales and dolphins from certain spots in Byron.

WHERE The reserve is three kilometres off the Byron coast, in northern NSW.

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Australia’s best chance for swimming with turtles? Lady Elliot Island

EYRE PENINSULA THE YONGALA

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THE WHITSUNDAYS IN A NUTSHELL Heavenly islands on the Great Barrier Reef.

TELL ME MORE The Whitsundays include over 70 islands, so there’s heaps of options to choose from. It’s a great spot for learners, with introductory dives and snorkelling readily available and there’s also plenty of scope for more experienced dive enthusiasts.

WHERE The Whitsundays are located off the Queensland coast from Airlie Beach.

Photos: Tourism Queensland, Tourism WA, TThinkstock

IN A NUTSHELL Arguably the country’s greatest wreck dive.

TELL ME MORE The SS Yongala sunk in a cyclone in 1911, taking down all of its 122 passengers and crew.

The wreck was discovered during World War II, and the exact circumstances of its demise remain a mystery.

The Yongala is in good shape on the sea floor, and hosts a plethora of sea animals.

WHERE The wreck lies off Cape Bowling Green, Queensland. Trips leave from either Townsville or Magnetic Island.

IN A NUTSHELL If grey nurse sharks are a bit tame for your liking, check dis!

TELL ME MORE Two companies run cage diving expeditions off Port Lincoln, South Australia, to locations home to not only great white sharks, but also sea lions and fur seals. They plonk you in a cage, then plonk the cage in amongst some of the most ferocious predators on earth, while you try very hard not to wet yourself (not that anyone’ll notice).

WHERE Port Lincoln is way down south on the Eyre Peninsula, 280km from Adelaide.

Which side of the glass would you prefer to sit on?

..

.

E R E H Y L L A IN F E ’R U O Y

LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!

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Our 5 Day PADI Open water course is the most popular way to do it.

SYDNEY IN A NUTSHELL Get up close to a shark, without getting your head bitten off. Or if you’re after something a little bit more relaxing and less death defying, the beautiful Gordon’s Bay offers one of the most tranquil and iconic dive spots anywhere in the Harbour City.

TELL ME MORE Sydney boasts two main opportunities for diving with sharks: Magic Point at Maroubra, and Oceanworld Manly. Sydney ProDive offer dives at Magic Point, where you can also see a variety of other unique sea animals. The location includes caves and coral reefs.

For a more controlled environment, you can enter the fish tank at Oceanworld. Both pslaces cater for beginners and diving pros alike and grey nurse sharks may be big but they’re some of the most docile fish out there.

Gordon’s Bay on the other hand may be light on sharks but it is big on plenty of brightly coloured species of fish, including beautiful wrasse, bream and even iconic blue gropers. It also has it’s own unique dive trail.

WHERE Manly is one of the most popular tourist hubs on the northern beaches, Maroubra is on the southern suburbs while Gordon’s Bay is in the east, near Clovelly.

We also specialise in Liveaboard dive trips and all levels of dive education.

www.prodivecairns.com SHOP: Cnr Shields & Grafton Sts, Cairns FREECALL: 1800 353 213 PHONE: +617 4031 5255 RES: info@prodivecairns.com TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Hanging out post-dive. All talk will be on what you saw and how good the “vis” was!

36

TASMANIA

CAPE NATURALISTE

IN A NUTSHELL About as far south as you can dive.

TELL ME MORE It’s a little known fact that there are scores of places to dive in Tassie. You can navigate submerged caves, giant kelp forests and shipwrecks dating back to the 17th century, all while getting acquainted with dolphins, seahorses, sea dragons and countless other cuddly creatures. Top spots include Bicheno, Rock Cape, King, Maria and Flinders Islands and EagleHawk Neck. You can even dive close to Hobart.

WHERE Head south, and keep going. If you reach a massive ice block, you’ve gone too far.

IN A NUTSHELL A submerged warship, a one-of-a-kind seagrass meadow, and over 300 species of marine life.

TELL ME MORE The Busselton Jetty has provided artificial protection to some of Australia’s most colourful fish and coral, making for an eye-catching dive experience.

Nearby, you can explore the HMAS Swan, which was lowered to the seabed after her retirement specifically for the enjoyment of divers like you.

WHERE Cape Naturaliste is located near the town of Dunsborough, south of Perth, WA.

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GREAT BARRIER REEF IN A NUTSHELL Needs no introduction.

TELL ME MORE Though the site is protected on the World Heritage list, the Great Barrier Reef (GBR) is still under threat, so you should seize upon any chance you get to go and explore. The reef, which comprises a staggering 2,600km of corals and lagoons, is accessible from a number of places along Queensland’s coast – Cairns being the most popular – and there are scores of dive providers to choose from. And the reef isn’t the only drawcard – there are also 1,600 shipwrecks off the coast just waiting to be checked out.

WHERE Main base camps include Cairns, Townsville and Port Douglas, though there are plenty of smaller places to visit the reef from.

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Road tripping CAMPERVAN STYLE

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OZTRIP

The wheel deal Whether you buy, rent or hitch, a campervan will show you the real Oz – and in style too WORDS CHRIS STEVENS

Australia is a bloody big place it’s about twice the size of Europe and you could cram the UK into it about 30 times over. At home, visiting a mate can entail a five-minute walk around the corner. For the Aussies it could entail a five-hour drive!

So how the hell do you tackle travel around somewhere so vast, where the key destinations can have hundreds (if not thousands) of kilometres between them?

Well, you could hit up a tour company, take the bus or even splash out on flights. But for me, there’s only one true option – a roadtrip, campervan styley. Regardless of where you’re heading in Oz, when it comes to campervans you have two choices – rent or buy. The decision you make over this can seriously change the way you travel and also your financial position, so the main thing to remember is not to rush into anything.

steep, once you split it down it wasn’t a major outlay per person. It was also good to know that upfront what our biggest cost would be. You knew exactly how much money you were spending and it was only fuel that you had to factor in – and admit the van we had was surprisingly economical. No random mechanical faults or services to think about.

Thirdly, the van itself was built for the job we needed it.

It was comfortable to drive, clean and had everything we needed for our trip.

Extras like fridges and microwaves may not seem like something you’d care too much about, but those little things made life on the road that little bit easier.

About 8,500km later in Darwin I can pretty much say we put the van right through its paces. It got stuck in sand dunes, survived the tail end of a cyclone, and got hammered

Renting campervans By far the easiest option is to rent a campervan. This way you can be sure it’s in good nick, you won’t have to faff around with too much paperwork and more importantly, you just hand it back once you’re done.

I chose this option for my west coast roadtrip between Perth and Darwin, for a number of reasons.

Firstly, when you’re tackling some serious mileage and in the arse end of nowhere for a lot of your trip, you need to know it’s reliable. If you’re not mechanically-minded, then the only real way to have peace of mind is to go with a reputable company.

With the rental I also opted to bite the bullet and pay for full “No Worries Cover” – basically meaning that if anything happened to the van I wasn’t going to be paying a penny, unless of course I was stupid enough to roll it! This also included breakdown and replacement cover so even if the worst did happen, they’d sort it and get me on my way asap, always handy to know when you have other plans at the end of the trip. And of course we didn’t have to worry about hunting around for insurance.

Secondly there was a group of us going (eight in total over two vans), so even though the cost of hiring was pretty

“

I was completely free.

For me, that’s exactly what backpacking is about

”

along the beautiful stretches of coastal road that Oz has to offer. Basically, it got us where we needed to go and we did it in style!

Buying campervans On the flip side, I also bought a van while I was on the east coast. It’s something that I’d always wanted to do and I’d resisted buying a surf van back in Devon for years with the intention of living the dream in Australia.

Having your own van has some big advantages. Once I’d bought my van (who I named Leslie), I was free to go wherever I wanted, whenever I wanted. I was completely TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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free. For me, that is exactly what backpacking is about. It’s also pretty handy when you don’t have a clue where you want to spend the next 10 months of your working holiday visa!

From Sydney I headed to Melbourne, up the Great Ocean Road, back to Sidders via Canberra and then up the east coast to Byron, onto Coolie, Surfers, Brissie and Noosa before backtracking to Byron.

Pretty all over the place and not very planned.

All aboard A trip like this wouldn’t have been possible in a hired van simply due to the fact I had no fixed destination – and over the course of 10 months I would’ve racked up a massive bill.

Although it was me and the missus who lived in the van, we cut down on our fuel bills by taking passengers with us.

Some joined us for long stretches, whereas some were mere fleeting travel buddies.

It being my own van also meant I had the opportunity to personalise it. Leslie was literally my house on wheels.

Everything had its place and it was styled to what I wanted it to be. Sure it lacked a few of the mod cons that the rental had, but that’s half the fun of living in a van – washing from a bucket, cooking over an open fire on the beach. It’s nomadic living with a modern twist.

The cost of buying is a very personal thing and depends on what you want and where you are financially, but 40

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make sure you put it into perspective. Sure, a $1,000 van might look like a bargain, but it’s likely to be a mechanical nightmare! About $5,000 on a decent van with low mileage (which is what I paid for my van) might seem steep, but $20-30 per night in a hostel bed over a year equates to over $9,000 on accommodation alone... Suddenly a van doesn’t seem so expensive.

My theory is that to some extent you get what you pay for. And with owning your own van there’s also the added bonus of being able to sell it and reclaim some of the funds you invested. If you time your selling well you could easily break even, or even strike lucky and make some money.

I made a slight loss (about $500) when I sold mine, but that was halfway up the east coast in the middle of winter – hardly peak van buying season! But it’s a small loss and van living saved me heaps more than that. If you can aim to sell your van in Cairns or Sydney at the beginning of summer, you’ll be laughing all the way to the bank.

However...

It’s not all a bed of roses for either option. Both involve a significant investment so it’s not always the best option, especially when a bus pass can get you along the coast for around $350.

And as previously mentioned, selling your own van can incur some significant losses if you don’t plan it right.

Buying a complete wreck of a van can also mean you lose

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everything – sometimes without getting 10km down the road. It does happen – so invest wisely.

In the space of a few months you also need to be aware that even minor issues can cost you. A simple flat battery will be about $120 to replace. Make sure you have the funds to cover it or your roadtrip will come to a grinding halt.

Over a long period, hiring can cost an arm and a leg, especially if you’re going solo or just in a pair. Relocation is a good option to cut this cost down, but it does restrict your time and location.

With both options you also need to keep distance in mind. Fuel is much cheaper than many other countries, but the pure size of the country means you’ll constantly have your hand in your pocket topping up the tank.

Flexibility is the biggest downside with renting, you need to plan ahead and have at least a rough schedule in place, both time and location wise as over-running can incur some significant penalties.

Decisions, decisions Despite the potential pitfalls of owning or renting a van, I still believe it’s the ultimate way to explore Oz. There’s nothing better than waking up with the ocean at your doorstep or being able to pull over at a whim to explore something that takes your fancy.

My overall advice though is to have a plan. This will dictate the best option for you and help you avoid the major downsides to either option. A little bit of research – either into rental companies or what to look for in the second hand market – will go a long way to ensure you have an epic time on the road.

As for me? Well, I’m stoked for another stint of campervan living when I head over to NZ – I’m using the funds from the sale of Leslie to buy another home and live the dream once again.

Let the good times roll... ❚ 42

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HOME IS WHERE YOU PARK IT TOP 10 CAMPERVAN ESSENTIALS

1. Tunes: No roadtrip is complete without a good soundtrack, make sure there are numerous CDs and iPods on board and they’re loaded with mellow and pumping tunes alike.

2. Torches: The most underestimated and overlooked piece of kit. I actually went a week before purchasing one… never again!

3. Goon: A good supply of beverages is essential, camp fires simply aren’t the same without them!

4. Water: Seriously, pack shed loads. Vans turn into ovens in the morning heat, a good bottle of water is always good to have to hand.

5. Condoms: Van sex. Enough said.

6. Babywipes/toilet roll: One of my top festival items too. When you don’t have access to a shower or simply need to freshen up or clean up spills, they’re a life saver. Pack in adequate quantities as you’ll need them for all sorts of things, including cleaning and checking the oil.

7. Maps: Not majorly essential as getting lost can be half the fun, but always nice to have as a backup. A great way to document your trip too.

8. Books: A nice lazy read whilst in the passenger seat is a great way to pass hours of Aussie road by.

9. Good company: Don’t EVER roadtrip with anyone who will bug you. When it comes to long stretches in a cramped van, the company you take with you will make or break the trip.

10. Fuel!: Especially in Oz. You can go a long time before finding the nearest fuel station, and on the west coast in particular it’s important to keep topped up.

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Caffeine high This is Melbourne in 48 hours WORDS LEIGH LIVINGSTONE

DAY 1: xMelbourne is a classy city, with a reputation as the multicultural heart of Australia and the place to get a great coffee. Every one of its precincts has a distinct character and each of those contrasting vibes fits together perfectly like puzzle pieces to make one vibrant city full of fun things to see and do. So, what are you waiting for?

8:00: Start the morning by picking up some freshly baked breakfast goods from Queen Victoria Market (qvm. com.au). Open every day of the week and bustling with merchants selling their various wares in the charming old buildings with high vaulted ceilings. The open air section is a great place to sit in the morning sun and enjoy peoplewatching with your breakfast and espresso.

10:00: Continue the shopping spree by hitting up Bourke Street Mall (visitvictoria.com) nearby. Walk along the pedestrian-only area but watch out for the trams clinking along the same stretch as you drop into every big name store you can think of and some cute, one-of-a-kind shops that shouldn't be missed.

13:00: Give the feet a rest and take a drive out to the Yarra Valley (visityarravalley.com.au) for the afternoon. It's only one hour east of Melbourne and the home of some of Victoria's most famous wines. Taste test your way through the finest grapes of Rochford, Five Oaks and Yarra Ranges estates and grab a late lunch at Yering Station (yering. com). You'll get amazing views of the valley as well as a good feed before continuing your wine education.

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18:00: Back in Melbourne, Lygon Street (lygonstreetcarlton.com.au) is the place to go for a dinner you won't forget. Famous for being lined by a wide variety of Italian cafes, trattorias and gelato specialty shops, it almost doesn't matter where you go because the chances are high that the food (and coffee) will be great.

20:00: The famous Crown Casino Complex (crownmelbourne.com.au) is the perfect place to get a party started. There is a large selection of bars and nightclubs to boogie the night away at, but begin by visiting Lagerfield Bar and Beer Garden. Sip on a local beer while listening to live music, then, the night is young, make the most of what the complex has to offer.

23:00: Grab some shut eye at Nomads Melbourne Backpackers (nomadshostels.com) on A'Beckett Street in the heart of the city. That's where the action is, so you might as well stay there, they have all the mod-coms like wifi and even a cinema lounge.

DAY 2: 9:00: Nurse the hangover of a good night with some more of that amazing coffee (noticing a trend?) and cake in St Kilda. Monarch Cakes (monarchcakes.com.au) on Acland Street is enough to make even a savoury savant drool. If you want to be a grown up about it and get some proper breakfast, Acland Street is the place to find a range of Melbourne's best cafe culture hotspots, all in the one place.

11:00: St Kilda is also the home of the big mouthed attraction known as Luna Park (lunapark.com.au). A fun

Mind the trams

fair full of rides and a seaside carnival atmosphere. Release your inner kid with a few rounds on the rollercoaster that has views over Port Phillip Bay and win a giant stuffed animal souvenir from one of the games of skill.

14:00: Take an afternoon cruise along the Yarra river to experience the riverside suburbs of Melbourne at a slightly slower pace. Melbourne River Cruises (melbcruises. com.au) do daily sightseeing jaunts alongside Melbourne's waterside attractions with informative commentary from the Captain.

19:00: While you're in the area, the Docklands precinct (docklands.com) has a large selection of restaurants and bars to check out along the waterfront promenade. Outback Jacks (outbackjacks.com.au) claims Australia's largest range of mouth-watering steaks, so why not put them to the test? Their menu gives suggestions of ideal wines to pair with the choices, so you can use your newly learned talents as a connosieur to pick the best of the Yarra.

20:30: After your meal it's time to celebrate your last night in Melbourne right, if you want to stay in the area then The Woolshed Pub (woolshedpub.com), is a good place to start, with live music on the weekends and the occasional fireworks display. Or if the smell of slightly dank salt water is too much for you why not head over to the ultra trendy Chapel Street which runs through Prahran. The club Electric Ladyland (electricladyland.com) is a great place to sign off on your Melbourne weekend in style.

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Burma SOUTH EAST ASIA

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BIGTRIP

Land of green and gold Burma is the word on every traveller’s lips this year, thanks to the end of the tourism boycott. We explore this controversial country WORDS LAURA CHUBB

My first impressions of Burma do not Southeast Asia’s final frontier. In contrast disappoint. Having been cordoned off from to Bangkok’s shiny shopping malls and WHEN TO GO: November to the rest of the world for so long, the country jeans and baseball caps, a two-minute stroll February is high season, when the holds a mysterious appeal, with visions of from my hotel takes me into crowds of weather is cooler and drier. March a time-warped otherworld exciting many a weathered men wearing longyis, a sheet of to May is stifling. Mid-May to Sept traveller’s imagination. And as I fly in over chequered cloth worn from the waist to the brings rain, but fewer tourists. the capital, Yangon, the sight is quite unlike feet, almost sarong-like. Steam rises from CURRENCY: $1 = MMK902 anything I’ve seen before. A thick blanket streetside stovetops, chanting monks dodge (Burmese Kyat). of jungle green is pierced by the spires of the heaps of junk and rubble that litter the ACCOMMODATION: gleaming gold stupas – too many towering pavements, and there’s a constant crackle of New Park Hotel in Bagan offers up above the trees to count. The scene is so frying food. bungalows, breakfast and AC for instantly exotic, so distinctly different, that I Loose paving slabs and open gutters $17pn. newparkmyanmar.com can feel the sticky heat awaiting me before swimming with murky grey water meanI At Inle Lake, the Four Sisters Inn is we’ve even hit the tarmac. soon learn to watch my step. That, and the basic, but the ladies are lovely and Burma – officially Myanmar, but still known cook up a great traditional Burmese red jets of betelnut juice regularly spat from by its former name to the UK and the US, feast. Rooms from $15pn. (Nan Pan passing taxis. which do not recognise the unelected military There are no McDonald’s or Starbucks Qtr, Nyaungshwe). regime’s name-change – has emerged as the SEE: You’ll need a visa before you – or, less satisfyingly, ATMs. Visitors have must-see destination of the moment, thanks to travel. myanmarvisa.com to bring immaculate US dollars to Burma the National League of Democracy’s decision and have them changed into the local kyat to lift the tourism boycott it had encouraged since 1996. (pronounced ‘chat’) at exchange counters.

The move came after the NLD’s leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, My first stop here is Shwedagon Pagoda, the country’s was finally released from house arrest by the ruling military most sacred Buddhist monument and dominator of Yangon’s government, kicking off what has widely been seen as skyline. It’s said to be more than 2000 years old and, as significant improvements to the political landscape. legend has it, contains eight strands of the Buddha’s hair.

And so, for the first time in decades, this former pariah Rudyard Kipling wrote that, upon seeing Shwedagon in of the international community – hit with extensive 1889, “The golden dome said: ‘This is Burma, and it will be sanctions from a West outraged by a military coup that quite unlike any land you know about.’” killed thousands of civilians in 1988; the military junta’s That message holds true more than 120 years later. My refusal to honour the general election results of 1990; and guide, Ko Ko, tells me the top of the pagoda is covered one of the worst human rights records in the world – is with diamonds and jewels donated by pilgrims. To prove it, now more-or-less open for business. The impact of this so he ushers me into a building that proudly displays close-up far is proving varied, ranging from the first official release photos of Shwedagon’s crown, too high for us to see clearly of Titanic in Burmese cinemas (previously, US companies from the ground. It’s dripping with riches. Earrings, necklaces and rubies completely canvas it, and a 15g diamond had been banned from doing business here), to a massive decorates the very top. I’m confused – aren’t the people influx of tourists. Tour operator Explore reported adding 70 of Burma some of the world’s poorest? “They bring family departures to an initial schedule of 12 for this year, such is heirlooms,” Ko Ko tells me. “They love the pagoda so much.” the scale of demand.

Stepping back out into the presence of the pagoda, the Just walking Yangon’s streets delivers the thrill this new atmosphere turns suddenly eerie. Clouds of incense blow wave of visitors comes in search of – a sense of Burma as

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Clockwise from here: Yangon and Shwedagon Pagoda; the entry to Pindaya Caves; locals and rural transport across the complex as bells tinkle in the wind, each said to carry a prayer, the only sound filling a reverent silence. The gilded pagoda reaches into the sky with all its might.

Kingdom of Pagan There are three things I repeatedly heard about Burma when planning my trip: choosing to visit is an ethical dilemma; the country is untouched by tourism; the people are the friendliest you will ever meet. My journey finds some truths here – and also some fallacy.

Bagan further north is my next port of call, and also the source of my greatest anticipation. From the 9th to 13th centuries, this was the first capital of the Kingdom of Pagan, later to become Burma. During this time, the Pagan Empire built an incredible 10,000 Buddhist temples and stupas across the plains, of which about 4000 remain today. The sight of them stretching off into the horizon is Burma’s trump card; a challenger to Angkor Wat, Petra, the Pyramids, Machu Picchu – the lot.

Day one of exploring them, however, destroys one myth – tourism has not only just arrived in Burma. There are hawkers outside every temple, hassling sightseers to buy postcards, trinkets, ‘gems’. Local women chase energysapped tourists struggling in the afternoon heat with thanaka – a yellow paste made from ground bark, worn by Burmese women as a natural sunscreen. It’s a wily customer who escapes Bagan without having their face daubed in it.

Bagan’s accustom to tourists is self-evident – in the 50

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street lined with shacks flogging pizzas, on the painted sign welcoming you to ‘Weather Spoon’s Restaurant’ (sic).

I ask Ko Ko if there was a dearth of tourists before now.

He gives a wry smile and shakes his head. It might be more acceptable to holiday in Burma today, but plenty of people were coming before the boycott was lifted.

This puts paid to the idea of Burma as untouched territory, but it can’t spoil the spectacle of Bagan. After climbing the steep stairs to the summit of Shwe Sandaw, a pagoda with a reputed sunset view, I snatch the money shot: brick-red temples are scattered in their thousands as far as I can see. The aweing reality of something so unique – a scene you simply won’t see elsewhere in this world – is overwhelming. “No-one would believe it if I told them,” a woman nearby remarks, shaking her head. I take too many pictures. None of them do it justice.

Strange spiritualism A long bus ride east towards Burma’s other big draw, Inle Lake, takes me into rural terrain – the Burma in which the majority of the population lives. The roads are atrocious. And yet, no matter how remote the potholed trail the bus judders over, there are lines of golden stupas winking in the scrub.

Locals ride around on wooden carts hauled by bullocks, while young nuns with shaved heads and pink robes chase our bus, laughing. Women and children break rocks on the roadside.

A couple of times, I catch their eye from the window. They always extend a smile and a nod.

Ko Ko tells me that, while there used to be forced labour in remote areas of the country, the government now pays private companies to do this work. The people I’m seeing are employed. How much do they earn? “Maybe 2000 kyat per day,” Ko Ko guesses – that’s about £1.50. “It’s up to the private companies what they pay people. But there’s not much for them to do here, so they’re happy to get work.”

I have a hunch his estimate is generous.

We make a stop at Pindaya Caves, a network of caverns decorated floor-to-ceiling with a purported 8000 images of Buddha. I’d envisaged it as another eerily spiritual spot, so am disappointed when it turns out to be more akin to a Buddhist theme park. Rather than ducking into a dank, dark cave, the entrance is guarded by a huge cartoon-like spider, and I take an elevator into the cliffside. No doubt the maze of gold Buddhas inside is an arresting sight, but, for me, it feels more like a gaudy gimmick to be gawped at than a meaningful gesture.

It stirs in me an unease that has been growing since Shwedagon Pagoda, and continues to loiter at Inle Lake.

The latter, like the rest of Burma, mesmerises with a unique allure. Encircled by the Shan Hills and shockinggreen rice paddies, exploring this freshwater lake by boat invites an embarrassment of striking scenes – warrens of rickety wooden stilt houses that give the impression of a ramshackle Venice; fishermen rowing longboats, as is local custom, with one leg wrapped around an oar.

At Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda, in the middle of the lake, there are four Buddha idols that have been so completely covered with gold leaf, I cannot make out the man beneath.

They are merely bobbled baubles of gold. I watch as a monk buys four more squares of gold leaf from a hawker outside the pagoda, then plasters one to each idol, saying a prayer after each is stuck on.

It’s this strange spiritualism that unsettles me. Here is a monk spending what little he has on gold leaf to decorate a distorted Buddha; back in Yangon, poor pilgrims give the country’s natural riches to a pagoda. (Burma is a prominent producer of precious stones, and supplies 90 per cent of the world’s rubies.) In Bagan, the biggest temple is Dhammayangyi, built by a man who killed his father and brother and hoped the monument would be enough to buy him a place in heaven. Now consider that most Burmese live in poor, rural villages and labour on land that is not theirs, while every inch of the country glitters with gold stupas, and that many of the Buddhas at Pindaya Caves have been donated by the military junta. I’d guess the psychology – making grand offerings after gross misdeeds – is the same.

So what of the ethics of visiting this evidently troubled land? Every local I meet is thrilled to see a foreigner and pursues conversation – being isolated must have been lonely. And things are probably better right now in Burma than they have ever been. Posters and T-shirts of Aung San Suu Kyi are everywhere, once upon a time an offence worthy of imprisonment. Is democracy on its way? It’s unlikely a government that shot dead protesting monks on the streets of Yangon as recently as 2007 is ready to give up its power, but the mood is at least hopeful.

In the end, I might be equal parts unnerved and awed by my visit to Burma, but I prefer that to knowing and feeling nothing at all. ❚

Puffing on a Burmese cigar

The ‘long neck’ tribe

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OZLISTINGS TRAVEL AGENTS Adventure Travel Bugs 07 3236 3266, adventuretravelbugs.com Backpackers World Travel 1800 997 325 backpackersworld.com Peter Pans Adventure Travel 1800 669 424, peterpans.com.au Travellers Contact Point 1800 647 640, travellers.com.au Tribal Adventure Travel 1800 984 484, tribaltravel.com.au YHA Travel 02 9261 111, yha.com.au

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RENTAL FIRMS Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779, apollocamper.com Mighty Cars and Campers (Formerly Backpacker Campervan Rentals) 1800 809 944 mightycampers.com.au Boomerang Cars 0414 882 559, boomerangcars.com.au Hippie Camper 1800 777 779, hippiecamper.com Kings Cross Car Market For buying and selling vehicles. 110 Bourke St, Woolloomooloo.

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02 9977 6977, manlysurfschool.com Maritime Museum Darling Harbour. anmm.gov.au My Sydney Detour Unique city tours. mysydneydetour.com Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade. oceanworld.com.au Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour. powerhousemuseum.com.au

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PARRAMATTA In the heart of Sydney’s West is the unofficial second CBD of NSW, Parramatta. This half an hour trip from the city will take you to a plethora of different cultures and ethnicitites.Get there by ferry, train or bus – but get there as soon as you can because the atmosphere is unlike any other.

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Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace.

07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com

Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, stayatbase.com Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433, stayatbase.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com

go to: goldenbackpacks.tntdownunder.com

Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, bunkbrisbane.com.au The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm.

04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646. tinbilly.com Balmoral House 33 Amelia St, Fortitude Valley vipbackpackers.com Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St yha.com.au Nomads Prince Consort Backpackers 230 Wickham St princeconsort.com.au Somewhere to Stay Cnr Brighton Rd & Franklin St somewheretostay.com.au The Palace Backpackers Cnr Anne & Edward St backpackbrisbane.com

FEATURES

FREECALL: 1800 000 541

Air-conditioning 24 hour reception Kitchen & laundry Keycard access Secure parking Free BBQ

HEAPS OF ACTIVITIES! Day trip to Crystal Cascades, Wakeboarding, Sailing, Movie nights and much more!

117 Grafton Street Cairns, QLD Australia 4870 northern@friendlygroup.com.au www.northerngreenhouse.com.au www.greenhousebackpacker.com.au

FREE DAILY BREAKFAST

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Tin Billy Travellers 462 George St tinbilly.com

BRISBANE DO Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah.

07 5436 2000, australiazoo.com.au Gallery of Modern Art 07 3840 7303, qag.qld.gov.au Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point.

07 3891 5766, riverlife.com.au Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point.

1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb. com.au XXXX Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton.07 3361 7597, xxxxalehouse.com.au

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GOLD COAST Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise.

1800 22 99 55, aquariusbackpackers.com.au Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise.

1800 268 621, backpackersinparadise.com.au Coolangatta Kirra Beach YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga.

07 5536 76442, yha.com.au Coolangatta Sands Hostel Cnr Griffiths & McLean Sts, Coolangatta. 07 5536 7472, coolangattasandshostel.com.au Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers.

1800 816 300, goldcoastbackpackers.com.au Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise.

1800 074 393, islander.com.au Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise.

1800 817 832, sleepinginn.com.au Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers.

1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers.com.au Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise.

07 5571 1776, yha.com.au Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport.

1800 100 004, trekkersbackpackers.com.au Nomads Islander Resort 3128 Surfers Paradise Blvd, nomadsworld.com Surf & Sun Backpackers 3323 Surfers Paradise Blvd surfnsun-goldcoast.com

GC DO Dreamworld Theme park. dreamworld.com.au Get Wet Surf School 07 5532 9907 Seaworld seaworld.com.au Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World wetnwild.myfun.com.au Warner Bros Movie World movieworld.com.au Zorb 07 5547 6300

SUNSHINE CST Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba.

1800 020 120 mooloolababackpackers.com Nomads Noosa 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads.

1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567, halselodge.com.au

QLDLISTINGS RAINBOW BEACH Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111126, dingosresort.com Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, pippiesbeachhouse.com Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358, skydiverainbowbeach.com

HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677 woolshedbackpackers.com Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989, nextbackpackers.com.au Nomads Hervey Bay 408 The Esplanade.

1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168, palaceadventures.com.au

FRASER ISLAND Eurong Beach Resort 07 4120 1600, eurong.com.au

Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 palaceadventures.com.au Barefoot Lodge Long Island barefootlodge.com.au Colonial Village YHA 820 Boat Harbour Drive, Urangan, Hervey Bay yha.com.au Cool Dingoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Rainbow Beach 20 Spectrum St dingosresort.com Flashpackers Hervey Bay 18 Spectrum Ave, Rainbow Beach frasersonrainbow.com Frasers On Rainbow Beach 195 Torquay Terrace, Torquay, flashpackersherveybay.com Kingfisher Bay Resort River Heads Road, Fraser Island kingfisherbay.com

Fraserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on Rainbow 18 Spectrum Av, Rainbow Beach frasersonrainbow.com The Friendly Hostel 182 Torquay Rd, Hervey Bay friendlyhostel.com.au Woolshed Backpackers 181 Torquay Road woolshedbackpackers.com.au

BUNDABERG Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 federalbackpackers.com.au Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours.

07 4131 2999 bundabergrum.com.au

TOWN OF 1770

Koalas Hervey Bay 408 The Esplanade, Hervey Bay koalaadventures.com

1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr. 1800 121 770, the1770backpackers.com

Fraser Coast Top Tourist Park 21 Denmans Camp Road, Scarness, Hervey Bay frasercoasttouristpark.com.au

1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889, 1770underseaadventures.com

Fraser Island Backpackers Cathedral Beach, Fraser Island fraserislandco.com.au

AIRLIE BEACH airliebeach.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd.

7/2+%23 7!.4%$ &RUIT AND 6EGETABLE PICKING JOBS AVAILABLE

s 4RANSPORT TO FROM WORK s &2%% COURTESY BUS PICK UP s ,AUNDRY FACILITIES s )NTERNET FACILITIES s 0LEASANT AND FRIENDLY STAFF s "ISTRO AVAILABLE AT "ANJO S TAVERN NEXT DOOR

6!2)%49 /& 7/2+ !6!),!",% 9%!2 2/5.$

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0HONE WWW FEDERALBACKPACKERS COM AU FEDERALBACKPACKERS HOTMAIL COM #OMPLIES WITH ALL SAFETY REQUIREMENTS QUANTITY DEPENDS ON SEASON

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Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 247 251, yha.com.au Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994, backpackersbythebay.com Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634 magnums.com.au

BOWEN Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433 bowenbackpackers.net

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522, adventurersresort.com Adrenalin Dive.

07 4724 0600, adrenalindive.com.au Yongala Dive Yongala diving.

07 4783 1519, yongaladive.com.au

Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Gold Coast

Famous for fun

AdventureGoldCoast.com

facebook.com/AdventureGoldCoast twitter.com/AdventureGoldCoast

QLDLISTINGS MAGNETIC ISL Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd. 1800 24 22 73, stayatbase.com

NJoy Backpackers Hostel Harbour 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055, njoy.net.au Nomads Beach House 239 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228, nomadshostels.com

Bungalow Bay Backpackers Horseshow Bay. 1800 285 577, bungalowbay.com.au Hotel Arcadia 7 Marine Parade, Arcadia Bay. 07 4778 5177, magnetic-island.com/arc-rsrt.htm Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

MISSION BEACH Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road.

07 4068 8317, absolutebackpackers.com.au

CAIRNS DO AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon swinging.

1800 622 888 cairns.ajhackett.com Pro Dive 07 4031 5255 prodivecairns.com Raging Thunder Adventures Whitewater rafting.

07 4030 7990, ragingthunder.com.au Skydive Cairns POBOX 105N Cairns 07 4052 1822, skydivecairns.com.au

Beach Shack 86 Porters Promenade missionbeachshack.com Scotty’s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, scottysbeachhouse.com.au

CAPE TRIB

Jackaroo Hostel Mission Beach Frizelle Rd, Bingil Bay jackaroohostel.com

Crocodylus Village Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Rd, Cow Bay. 07 4098 9166, crocodyluscapetrib.com PK’s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333, pksjunglevillage.com.au

Mission Beach Retreat 49 Porters Promenade missionbeachretreat.com.au

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bohemiacentral.com.au Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353, bohemiaresort.com.au

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com

PORT DOUGLAS Parrotfish Backpackers Resort 37 Warner St, Kuranda.

07 4099 5011, parrotfishlodge.com

GULF SAVANNAH Emu Creek Cattle Station 07 4094 8313

DAINTREE Koala Beach Resort Cape Kimberly Rd. 1800 466 444

MOOLOOLABA Mooloolaba Backpackers VIP 75 Brisbane Road mooloolababackpackers.com

MORETON ISLAND Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort tangalooma.com

NOOSA Dolphins Beach House 14 Duke Street, S unshine Beach dolphinsbeachhouse.com.au Nomads Noosa Backpackers 44 Noosa Dr nomadsworld.com Noosa Backpackers Resort 9-13 William St noosabackpackers.com

IInnisfail Budget Backpackers Worker’s Hostel 125 Edith St. 07 4061 78337

Ride On Mary Budget Bush Retreat imbilkayakandbike.com

Walkabout Motel & Backpackers 07 4061 2311

Dougies Backpackers Resort 111 Davidson St dougies.com.au

Kuranda Rainforest Park 88 Kuranda Heaights Rd, Kuranda.

07 4093 7316, kurandarainforestpark.com.au

Port O’Call YHA 7 Craven Close portocall.com.au

INNISFAIL Codge Lodge 63 Rankin St codgelodge.com Crown Hostel 25 Ernest St (07) 4061 2266 Innisfail Budget Backpackers 125 Edith St jobsforbackpackers.com.au

AGNES WATER 1770 Beachside Backpacker 12 Captain Cook Drive independentbackpackers.com 1770 Southern Cross Backpackers 2694 Round Hill Rd 1770southerncross.com

ROCKHAMPTON Emu Park Resort 92 Patterson St, Emu Park emusbeachresort.com Rockhampton Backpackers YHA 60 Macfarlane Street, Rockhampton yha.com.au

STRADBROKE IS Manta Lodge & Scuba Centre 1 Eastcoast Rd

@tnt_downunder mantalodge.com.au

SUNSHINE COAST Cotton Tree Beachouse 15 the Esplanade

cottontreebackpackers.com

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Backpackers 79 Palmer St adventurersresort.com Civic Guest House Backpackers Hostel 262 Walker St civicguesthousetownsville.com.au Foreign Exchange Accommodation - Beachside 19 Eyre St, North Ward

foreignx.com.au

MACKAY Gecko’s Rest 34 Sydney St geckosrest.com.au

MAGNETIC IS Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd

stayatbase.com Bungalow Bay Koala Village YHA 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd bungalowbay.com.au

NOOSA INLAND

INNISFAIL

ATHERTON

Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au

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MUST DO!

PORT DOUGLAS

Global Port Douglas 38 Macrossan St globalbackpackerscairns.com.au/ port-douglas Parrot Fish Lodge 37 Warner St parrotfishlodge.com

Y PLACE TO BE! THE ONL

Backpacker Resort BRISBANE

Innisfail North Queensland 50 fruit pickers wanted NOW! Guys & girls s #ABLE TELEVISION GAMES ROOM SPORTING OVAL s !LL 4RANSPORT PROVIDED 30%#)!,)3).' ). !33)34).' 7)4( 3%#/.$ 9%!2 6)3! 7/2+

Phone: 07 4061 2284 58

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Brisbane is the sunny capital of Queensland and is the mecca for that beachy culture you’ve heard all about. It is the third most populous state in Australia and has a population of 2.15 million people.

Combining amazing beaches, restaurants, hotels and cafes, Brisbane is known for its sunny and relaxed culture. Rated the 16th most livable city in the world in 2009 by the Economist Intelligence Unit, Brisbane has everything to offer. The Queen Street Mall is Brisbane’s premier shopping centre, and offers a huge array of activities, like cinemas, restaurants and cafes. The Queensland Performing Arts Centre is also a great place to check out because it features ballet productions and theatre performances. Definitely a must-stop city!

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MELBOURNE STAY All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, allnations.com.au

03 8663 2200, acmi.net.au

CHECK IN

Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999, melbourneaquarium.com.au Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888 mcg.org.au

Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda.

1800 242 273, stayatbase.com

Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02 melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au

Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond.

03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697, exfordhotel.com.au Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane.

1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com. au Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212, homemansion.com.au Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda.

1800 008 718, hometravellersmotel.com.au Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200, hotelbakpak.com Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523, yha.com.au Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762, nomadshostels.com Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, hotelspencer.com Back of Chapel 50 Green St, Windsor nomadshostels.com College Lawn Hotel 36 Greville St, Prahran collegelawnhotel.com.au Claremont Guesthouse 189 Toorak Rd, South Yarra hotelclaremont.com City Centre Budget Hotel 22-30 Little Collins St citycentrebudgethotel.com Elephant Backpackers 250 Flinders St

National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square. ngv.vic.gov.au

EXFORD HOTEL

Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228, oldmelbournegaol.com.au

199 Russell St. Dorms from $27 This 80 bed facility in dormitory style rooms offers twin and double rooms with lockers under every bed located in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD.

Melbourne

Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. 03 9629 5866, neighbourstour.com.au

exfordhotel.com.au

Hotel Discovery 167 Franklin St hoteldiscovery.com.au

The Ritz for Backpackers 109 Barkly St stkildabeachhouse.com.au

Lords Lodge Backpackers 167 Franklin St

St Kilda Beach House 169B Fitzroy St ritzbackpackers.com

lordslodge.com Melbourne International Backpackers 204 Punt Rd, Prahran mibp.com.au Melbourne Metro YHA 78 Howard St yha.com.au Melbourne Oasis YHA 76 Chapman St yha.com.au St Arnaud 99 Park St, South Yarra, starnaudguesthouse.com.au

Skydive the Beach Melbourne 1300 798 843 skydivethebeachmelbourne.com Tourism Victoria Backpacking ideas. backpackmelbourne.com

MELBOURNE DO

Wildlife Tours Australia Specialising in Victorian tours +61 3 9314 2225 wildlifetours.com.au

Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square.

The Spencer Everything you want in a hostel!

Friendly and affordable

The Spencer City Central Backpackers 475 Spencer St spencerbackpackers.com.au The Nunnery 116 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy

nunnery.com.au Urban Central 334 City Road, Southbank urbancentral.com.au Victoria Hotel Backpackers Victoria Hotel, 380 Victoria St vichotelbrunswick.com.au

ST KILDA Back of Chapel Backpackers 50 Green St backofchapel.com Base St Kilda 17 Carlisle St stayatbase.com

elephantbackpacker.com.au

Coffee Palace Backpackers 24 Grey St coffeepalacebackpackers.com.au

Elizabeth Hostel 490 Elizabeth St elizabethhostel.com.au

Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Rd, thehabitathq.com.au

King St Backpackers 160 King Street kingstreetbackpackers.com.au

Oslo Hotel 38 Grey St oslohotel.com.au

Free Pick ups Free Parking Cable TV VIP Discounts Great bar Laundry Tour info Job search

Rooftop garden Modern,fully equipped kitchen Short walk from Southern Cross station Female dorms, mixed dorms, twins, doubles, ensuites

Free call: 1800 638 108

475 Spencer Street, Melbourne email: hotelspencer@hotkey.com.au www.spencerbackpackers.com.au Find us on Facebook ‘The Spencer Backpackers’ We are a VIP hostel!

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GREAT OCEAN RD Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea.

03 5263 2664, angleseabackpackers.com.au

FREE UNLIMITED INTERNET

!!

Awards

Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St. 03 5237 7899, yha.com.au Great Ocean Road Backpackers YHA 10 Erskine Av, Lorne.

03 5289 2508, yha.com.au Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell.

03 5598 6305, portcampbellhostel.com.au

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Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263, surfsidebackpacker.com

go to: goldenbackpacks.tntdownunder.com

MORNINGTON Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie.

03 5988 0188, bayplay.com.au Sorrento Foreshore Reserve Nepean Hwy. 1800 850 600, mornpen.vic.gov.au Sorrento YHA 3 Miranda St, Sorrento.

03 5984 4323, yha.com.au Tortoise Head Lodge French Island.

03 5980 1234, tortoisehead.net

DANDENONG Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

MURRAY RIVER

FEATURES

FREECALL: 1800 249 207

Central location 24 hour reception Kitchen & laundry Keycard access Luggage Storage Lockers

HEAPS OF ACTIVITIES!

Level 6, 228 Flinders Lne Melbourne, VIC 3000

Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca.

03 5480 6522, yha.com.au

Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura.

03 5022 7922, milduracitybackpackers.com.au Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura.

04 0734 4251, milduraoasisbackpackers.com.au

GIPPSLAND Prom Country Backpackers 03 5682 2614 Cambrai Hostel Maffra 117 Johnson St, Maffra.

1800 101 113 maffra.net.au/hostel

PHILLIP ISLAND Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes.

03 5952 3620, yha.com.au The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road.

03 5956 6123 theislandaccommodation.com.au

GRAMPIANS Grampians YHA Eco Hostel Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4543, yha.com.au Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288, timsplace.com.au

MILDURA Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Avenue

milduracitybackpackers.com.au

STRATHMERTON Riviera Backpackers YHA 669 Esplanade

yha.com.au

MUST DO!

greenhouse@friendlygroup.com.au www.greenhousebackpacker.com.au www.northerngreenhouse.com.au

FREE DAILY BREAKFAST

Walking tour, Pub crawl, Bingo night, Pasta night, Sunday pancakes and much more!

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TRENTHAM FALLS Plunging dramatically over basalt columns, Trentham Falls is Victoria’s longest singledrop waterfall. It’s an ideal mini-hike and picnic location situated a quick 40 minute drive northwest of Gisborne. The town of Trentham itself has gold rush ruins to explore and the heritage listed Trentham railway station that begins the Domino Trail walking track into the nearby Wombat Forest.

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ur

Stay. Play. Melbourne.

$28

Beds from $28 per night Monday to Thursday *Subject to availability

e),

UC103

Free breakfast Free pasta, rice, tea & coffee Free Weekly meal Free linen & towel Maximum spacious 4 bed dormitories Oversized locker with personal power point Public transport on doorstep 5 minute walk to city Short tram ride to St Kilda Less than 5 minute walk to supermarkets and shops Local discounts 24 hour security Large communal kitchen and laundry facilities Large bar with big screen (all major sporting events shown) Drink specials at the bar Unique value tour packages

Book Now 1800

urban_wrkfle711v2.indd 1

631 288 urbancentral.com.au

334 CITY ROAD SOUTHBANK MELBOURNE VIC 3006 AUSTRALIA 14/12/12 9:43 AM

SALISTINGS

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ADELAIDE STAY

1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891, radekadownunder.com.au

Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, adpi.com.au

Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614, camp-underground.com.au

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010, yha.com.au

KANGAROO IS

Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, anniesplace.com.au Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au

CHECK IN

Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au

BLUE GALAH BACKPACKERS Level 1, 52-62 King William St Adelaide. Beds from $26 A modern, clean and comfortable three and a half star hostel with a green eco-friendly tick. Large or small bookings.

Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au

Adelaide

bluegalah.com.au

Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au

ADELAIDE DO Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection.

War Memorial Drive.

08 8300 3800 cricketsa.com.au

Adelaide Zoo Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, zoossa.com.au Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours.

153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside 1800 819 757, haighschocolates.com.au Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg.

04 1281 1838 dolphinboat.com.au

BAROSSA VAL Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road Tanunda.

08 8563 0198, barossabackpackers.com.au

COOBER PEDY Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, opalcavecooberpedy.com.au Radeka Down Under

@tnt_downunder 13 The Strand, Port Elliot.

08 8554 2785 yha.com.au

EYRE PENINSULA Coodlie Park Farmstay Flinders Highway, Port Kenny.

08 8687 0411 coodliepark.com

Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw.

08 8553 1344 yha.com.au

Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience Sea lion and dolphin swims.

08 8626 5017 bairdbay.com

Vivonne Bay Lodge 66 Knofel Drive, Vivonne Bay 13 13 01 seaink.com.au

Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving.

08 8682 3939, sharkcagediving.com.au

RIVERLAND Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri.

08 8582 3144, berribackpackers.com.au Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton.

08 8584 5646, harvesttrail.com.au Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray.

1800 665 166, nomadsworld.com Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

FLEURIEU PENIN Port Elliot Beach House YHA

Nullarbor Traveller Tours across to Perth.

1800 816 858 the-traveller.com.au Port Lincoln Tourist Park 11 Hindmarsh St. 08 8621 4444, portlincolntouristpark.com.au Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions Great white shark cage diving.

08 8363 1788 rodneyfox.com.au

FLINDERS RANGES Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842, angorichinavillage.com.au Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004, wilpenapound.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Photo: SATC

LAKE EYRE

62

Taking a guided tour to the lake around midday you will experience a true phenomenon, the lake surface can often become very flat. The surface then reflects the sky in a way that leaves both the horizon and water surface virtually impossible to see. Whether you want to be floating up with the clouds or keeping your feet firmly on the ground, Lake Eyre has it all. You can take a hot air balloon at dawn over the Barossa Valley or try hiking the Heysen Trail. The 1,200 kilometre track stretches from Cape Jervis on the south coast to Parachilna Gorge in the Flinders Ranges. If being in the water is more your thing, you can dive through the wreckage of navy destroyer, ex-HMAS Hobart. A popular trail is to take the Underwater Heritage on Gulf St Vincent. This trail links four of the most historic wrecks: the Grecian, the Zanoni, Star of Greece and Norma which all sank between 1841 and 1893.

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PERTH STAY Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, billabongresort.com.au Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge.

08 9227 6000, perthbrittania.com Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge.

1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe.

08 9384 5111, oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge.

1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333, yha.com.au The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St.

08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge.

08 9228 3755, undergroundbackpackers.com.au The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, witchshat.com Backpack City and Surf 41-43 Money St backpacker.com.au Beatty Lodge 235 Vincent St beattylodge.com.au Cheviot Lodge 30 Bulwer St cheviotlodge.com Coolibah Lodge 194 Brisbane St coolibahlodge.com.au Easy Perth Backpackers 4 Francis Street, Northbridge easyperthbackpackers.com.au

Hotel Bambu Backpackers 75 - 77 Aberdeen St, Northbridge bambu.net.au Mountway Holiday Apartments 36 Mount St

mountwayapartments.com.au Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottesloe woceanbeachbackpackers.com Perth Beach YHA & Indigo Net Cafe 256 West Coast Hwy, Scarbrough indigonet.com.au Planet Inn Backpackers 496 Newcastle St planetinn.com.au The Shiralee Hostel 107 Brisbane St, Northbridge planetinn.com.au Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St,

shiralee.com.au

Grand Central Hotel Backpackers 379 Wellington St (08) 9421 1123

Wickham Retreat Backpackers 25-27 Wickham St East Perth (08) 9325 6398

Hay Street Backpackers 266-268 Hay St haystbackpackers.com

Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St ymcajewellhouse.com.au

YMCA Jewell House 180 Goderich St Witchs-hat.com 1201 East Backpackers 195 Hay St 1201east.com.au

PERTH DO Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys.

08 9447 7500, aqwa.com.au Kings Park & Botanic Garden bgpa.wa.gov.au Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223, perthmint.com.au Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth.

08 9474 3551, perthzoo.wa.gov.au

PERTH MUSIC Amplifier amplifiercapitol.com.au Astor liveattheastor.com.au Mojo’s Bar mojosbar.com.au

The Bakery nowbaking.com.au The Rosemount Hotel rosemounthotel.com.au

FREO STAY Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065, backpackersinnfreo.com.au Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, fremantleprison.com.au Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080, sundancerbackpackers.com.au

FREO DO Fremantle Markets Henderson Street Fremantle 08 9335 2515, fremantlemarkets.com.au Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace. 08 9336 9200, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

ROTTNEST ISL Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. 08 9372 9780, yha.com.au

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WALISTINGS

@tnt_downunder

follow us on Rottnest Express 1 Emma Place North Fremantle 1300 Go Rotto rottnestexpress.com.au

WORD FROM THE STREET

MARGARET RIVER Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. 08 9757 9532, yha.com.au Surfpoint 12 Riedle Drive Prevally 08 9757 1777surfpoint.com.au

ALBANY Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St 08 9842 3388, yha.com.au Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd. 08 9842 9599, cruizeinn.com

MONKEY MIA

Alex Vivas, UK WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN WA SO FAR? I did a roadtrip from Perth to Broome. What a trip.

FAVOURITE DAY SPOT? The Ningaloo Reef was at least as good as the Great Barrier Reef, the Pinnacles were pretty amazing as was Karijini National Park.

The whole trip has been incredible. But I hear the Kimberley is even better.

FAVOURITE NIGHT SPOT? Broome is great fun. Except when an Aboriginal busker guys thought I was in the proclaimers. Sod.

Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Monkey Mia Road Monkey Mia 1800 653 611, monkeymia.com.au

NINGALOO REEF Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101, aspenparks.com.au

Coral Bay 08 9948 5100, ningalooclub.com Excape Backpackers YHA Murat Rd, Exmouth.

08 9949 1200, yha.com.au

BROOME STAY Cable Beach Backpackers 12 Sanctuary Road.

1800 655 011, cablebeachbackpackers.com Kimberley Club 62 Fredrick St 08 9192 3233, kimberleyklub.com

CORAL BAY Ningaloo Club Robinson St ningalooclub.com

ESPERANCE Blue Waters Lodge YHA 299 Goldfields Rd, yha.com.au

EXMOUTH Pete’s Exmouth Backpackers YHA Cnr Truscott Cres & Murat Rd yha.com.au

Ningaloo Club

rs is a n, a Backpacke 12:01 Eastse hostel offering calend n e n o lic ti l a a d n o io m tradit xed accom cation friendly, reulandings at the best lo st! fa k o a rr cosy su h. PLUS FREE bre rth in Pert y Street, East Pe 195 Ha 1201

800 00 Freeca.ll12101east.com.au www

u east.com.a info@1201

n and dge is a clea Coolibah Lo ensed hostel catering lic rt. comfortable ng and young at hea ge for the you smopolitan Northbrid el st co Located in rs and nightlife, our hoht ba ig n its e l th al ty with p. ough to par is close en get a good nite’s slee ill st d an thbridge or N away t, ee tr eS 194 Brisban 0000 1800 28co ll a c e m.au Fre e. g d lo ah www.coolib 28 9958 T: (08) 93

Explore over 12,000 kms of Western Australia’s coastline in just one day

Australia’s largest aquarium and underwater tunnel Giant sharks, stingrays and turtles Beautiful living coral reefs Interactive fun Licensed café and exclusive giftshop

Hillarys Boat Harbour | Open Daily 10am -5pm (08) 9447 7500 | www.aqwa.com.au

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WINNER BEST HOSTEL IN WA 2007 FINALIST 2008,2009,2010 & 2011 1

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65

TASLISTINGS HOBART STAY Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507, centralbackpackers.com.au

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LAUNCESTON DO

CHECK IN

Cataract Gorge launcestoncataractgorge.com.au Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300, boags.com.au

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660, yha.com.au

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777, qvmag.tas.gov.au

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100, tasmaniazoo.com.au

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com

DEVONPORT

Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com

TRANSIT BACKPACKERS 251 Liverpool St, Hobart. Dorms from $19 This hostel provides twin, double and a full range of share rooms, large guest lounge, games area and kitchen amenities.

HOBART DO Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 cascadebreweryco.com.au Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880 mtwellingtondescent.com.au

Hobart

PORT ARTHUR Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101, portarthur.org.au

Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. salamanca.com.au Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St. tmag.com.au

transitbackpackers.com

LAUNCESTON Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135, arthousehostel.com.au

Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, launcestonbackpackers.com.au Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906, backpackersaccommodation.com.au

Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335, tasmanbackpackers.com.au

BICHENO Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, bichenobackpackers.com Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333, bichenopenguintours.com.au

CRADLE MTN Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574, discoveryholidayparks.com.au

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Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

CRADLE DO Devils at Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. devilsatcradle.com Overland Track Six-day walk parks.tas.gov.au

FREYCINET Iluka Backpackers YHA Reserve Rd. 03 6257 0115, yha.com.au Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000, wineglassbay.com

STRAHAN, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St. 03 6471 7255, yha.com

STRAHAN DO Four Wheelers Henty Sand Dunes quadbike tours. 04 1950 8175, 4wheelers.com.au Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142, franklinrivertasmania.com

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

HOBART Hobart is the capital of Tasmania and is the most populous city on the small island of Australia. It was also recently voted #7 in Lonely Planet’s prestigious Top 10 Cities in the World to Visit in 2013.

Some would say its controversial museum, the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) helped in some way. But the city’s natural beauty didn’t hurt either. It is the second oldest capital city in Australia and although Hobart itself rarely receives snow during the winter, the adjacent Mount Wellington is often seen with a snowcap. Unseasonal mountain snow covering has been known to occur during the other seasons. That makes Hobart a great destination for people who enjoy cold weather and snow for unseasonal snowfall. Hobart is known as an Antarctic gateway city, with geographical proximity to East Antarctica and the southern ocean.

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DARWIN STAY Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au

KATHERINE STAY

CHECK IN

BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road.

1800 501 984, big4.com.au

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au

KATHERINE DO

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au

DARWIN DO Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522, crocosauruscove.com Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront.

08 8981 0700, deckchaircinema.com.au

ALICE DO Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive.

08 8951 8788, alicespringsdesertpark.com.au

Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights.

08 8972 2345 airbornesolutions.com.au

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au

Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com

Toddy’s Resort 41 Gap Rd. 1800 027 027, toddys.com.au

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Giles St. 1800 626 722

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385, yha.com.au

Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards.

9 Stuart Terrace.

08 8952 8900, reptilecentre.com.au

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743 nitmiluktours.com.au

GECKO LODGE 46 Mitchell Street, Darwin. Dorms from $23 This small and secure hostel is Darwin’s most relaxed and unique with home style comforts in the heart of the Red Centre’s party centre.

Darwin

geckolodge.com.au

Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, nt.gov.au Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point.

08 8999 8264, magnt.nt.gov.au

Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf.

1300 135 595, ozjetboating.com.au Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River.

08 8978 9077, jumpingcrocodile.com.au Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct. waterfront.nt.gov.au

TENNANT CREEK Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719, touristrest.com.au

Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides.

1800 809 790, outbackballooning.com.au Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room.

Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129, flyingdoctor.net

ALICE SPRINGS Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, alicelodge.com.au Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. 08 8952 8855, yha.com.au Annie’s Place 4 Traeger Ave. 1800 359 089, anniesplace.com.au

Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive.

1800 794 663, alicehaven.com.au

School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum.

80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, assoa.nt.edu.au The Rock Tour Uluru tours.

78 Todd St. 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au

MUST DO!

GREGORY NATIONAL PARK (JUDBARRA) The park is the largest national park in the Northern Territory, with an area of 13,000 square kilometers. The park includes traditional lands of several Indigenous Australian groups, and contain an extensive amount of rock art, variously created by painting, stencilling, drawing and printing. If you’re going to see the Northern Territory, you cannot miss this huge park!

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NZLISTINGS IN THE SPOTLIGHT

ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK Although this is the smallest of the many national parks in New Zealand, it is ideally located right at the top of the South Island which gives it a tempered climate all year round. There is a world famous coastal track to leisurely walk and plenty of golden sandy beaches along the way to explore or stop at for a refreshing dip. If you are looking to avoid the human species in your search for New Zealand wildlife, then there is a less frequented inland track. Sea kayaking and sailing are popular past times and sometimes may be the only way to reach a secluded beach obscured by the many magnificent granite outcrops. There are plenty of walking, kayaking combinations to keep visitors enthralled for days. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget your camping equipment, even though there is accommodation available full of creature comforts, sleeping under the stars is the best way to experience the spirit of the Abel Tasman.

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BUS TOURS Kiwi Experience +64 9366 9830 kiwiexperience.com Magic Travellers Network +64 9358 5600, magicbus.co.nz Nakedbus.com 0900 62533, nakedbus.com NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966, travelpass.co.nz

RENTAL FIRMS Ace Rental Cars 1800 140 026, acerentalcars.com.nz Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals +800 200 80 801, backpackercampervans.com Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122, bargainrentals.com.nz Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 447 363, exploremore.co.nz Econo Campers +64 9275 9919, econocampers.co.nz Escape Rentals 1800 456 272, escaperentals.co.nz Explore More 1800 800 327, dcrentals.com.nz Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736, jucy.com.nz Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, rentadent.co.nz

Rental Car Village +64 9376 9935, hire-vehicles.co.nz Spaceships 1300 139 091, spaceships.tv Standby Cars 1300 789 059, standbycars.com.au Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickedcampers.com

AUCKLAND Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. +64 9275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz Auckland International Backpackers (BBH) 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584, Base Auckland 229 Queen St. 0800 227 369, stayatbase.com Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9623 4267, hostelbackpacker.com Central City Backpackers 26 Lorne St. +64 9358 5685, backpacker.net.nz City Garden Lodge 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. +64 9302 0880 The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. +64 9307 0181, nomadshostels.com

Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. +64 9300 9999, nomadshostels.com

bungibackpackers.co.nz

6 McDonald Cres. +64 4384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz

Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. +64 3443 7341, cardrona.com

Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) St. +64 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9638 6545, oaklands.co.nz

YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. +64 4801 7280

Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. +64 9373 3471, enquiries@qsb.co.nz

Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. +64 3442 5494, flamingkiwi@xtra.co.nz

CHRISTCHURCH

Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. +64 9363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz

Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. +64 3377 1897, chesterst.co.nz

YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. +64 9309 2802, yha.co.nz

Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. +64 3366 9720, backpack.co.nz/foley

YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. +64 9302 8200, yha.co.nz

Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546, stay@kiwibasecamp.com The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. +64 3381 5504, oldcountryhousenz.com

WELLINGTON Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. +64 4801 5666 stayatbase.com Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. +64 4473 8482 db@downtownbackpackers.co.nz Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. +64 4385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com Rosemere Backpackers (BBH)

Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. +64 3442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. +64 3441 3922, nomadshostels.com Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown. peterpans.com.au

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. +64 3366 6500, tranquil-lodge.co.nz

Pinewood Lodge (VIP) 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 7463 9663, rgrieg@xtra.co.nz

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. +64 3377 7931, rucksacker.com

Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, southernlaughter.co.nz

QUEENSTOWN Base Discovery Lodge St. +64 Queenstown 49 Shotover St. +64 3441 1185, stayatbase.com Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286,

YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. +64 3442 7400, yha.co.nz YHA Queenstown Lakefront 8890 Lake Esplanade. +64 3442 8413, yha.co.nz

r your o f n o i tures modat accom aland adven e New Z With sweet hostels near the sea, from whales in the ocean off Kaikoura to golden sands in the Bay of Islands, YHA have got your accommodation sorted. Easy as.

191 ow: Book n ne 1800 242 o h p Free .nz yha.co book@ .nz .co or yha

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Check out TNT online for the latest news, gossip, gigs, bizarre headlines and awesome features

?

T N T E R O M T WAN am! urite travel te o v fa r u o y from at’s on offer h w f o te s ta Here’s a

TRAVEL FEATURES & STORIES...

+ NEWS & REVIEWS

COMPETITIONS & TRAVEL OFFERS...

JOBS, JOBS & MORE JOBS...

tntdownunder.com Filler.indd 1

10/01/13 11:00 AM

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OZCAREERS

Study and stay in Oz Before you go and buy that pencil case, or more likely, iPad, you need to read our guide to the various ways of studying in Oz...

Many people who visit Australia on a working holiday visa find themselves so addicted to the place they want to hang around longer, maybe even for good. So if you’re one of those people, you’ll be happy to know there are several avenues you can take to stay in Australia, one of which is studying in an Australian college or university.

Obtaining a student visa is a way to increase your skills and expand your education while also getting to stay in the wonderful land of Australia.

“A student visa allows you to stay in the city of your choice and comes with ‘multiple entry’ in and out of Australia for the duration of the visa,” says Acacia Education Australia’s Melanie Duncan.

As well as studying, the visa allows you to work 20 hours per week during semester and as much as you want during holidays so you can keep your wallet relatively full while

your head is in the books.

Studying in Australia can also make you more attractive to prospective employers and help you along your way to permanent residency through skilled visas or business sponsorship. A nice way to boost that Aussie CV! And you don’t have to put your head down for a fulltime, long term year degree either. “After investigating their study options, working holiday makers often choose to enrol in university `pathway’ programmes,” Melanie says.

These programmes are more affordable options, shorter in length and will slowly ease you back into the world of study. You can experiment with several different fields without committing to one course.

And we all know how much you backpackers like to experiment! Now hop to it!

To find jobs in Australia, head to tntdownunder.com/jobs

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71

OZINTERVIEW

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@tnt_downunder

Interview with a student and I thought it would be good to experience a different type of uni – since my university in Leeds is city-based.

What are you studying?

I’m in my 2nd year of studying International Business at Leeds Metropolitan, but I’m on an exchange programme.

I’m also doing an internship.

Why do it?

To get my second year visa. Unless you have a job offering you sponsorship it is one of the only ways you can extend it.

Is it expensive to study?

Sydney is an expensive city, but I expected that and prepared for it. Accommodation is a big hit, six months here has cost me around the same as a year would at home. But it has been completely worth it, the fun I’ve had here outweighs any price tag.

Travelled much here?

I toured China before I got here and since then I’ve been to New Zealand with five Americans I met here. I got to skydive, bungy jump and whitewater raft. It was one of the best holidays ever. The following 10 days I travelled down the east coast of Australia..

FACTS ON FEES AND INSURANCE ❶ International students must pay tuition fees up-front. ❷ Scholarships are an option for covering costs ❸ University entrance, preparatory and bridging courses are about $9,000 to $14,000 p.a

We chat to Josh Tate from the Uk who studies at Macquarie University Why study in Oz? I have a few friends that travelled Australia and had the time of their lives, so their recommendation was really important to me. No language barrier was also a plus, although there is a slight dialect barrier – but I get that everywhere being from the north-east! Oh, and the drinking age is lower than the USA, my other option.

Which uni did you chose?

Macquarie University is in the top 10 Australian universities and it’s a campus-based uni just outside the heart of Sydney. It has a great reputation, great location

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❹ Bachelor degrees such as courses in arts, business, economics, science, engineering and law are about $12,500 to $31,500 a year. ❺ English language training varies significantly depending on the course. A General English course at a TAFE college will cost you about $350 a week. ❻ Shared accommodation is popular with international students and can range from $90 – $300 a week.

You may have to provide your own furniture. ❼ Australia has a special system of health cover for international students called Overseas Student Health Cover (OSHC). it is compulsory to buy OSHC before you get your visa to cover you during your stay as a student in Australia.

registered nurses required in Australia Randstad Care is seeking qualiďŹ ed registered nurses for various positions in metropolitan and rural and remote areas across Australia.

Full-time business sponsorship is available for international qualiďŹ ed nurses whom hold current Australian or New Zealand Nursing Registration.

Work with Randstad Care and enjoy the beneďŹ ts of: t OBUJPOBM PQQPSUVOJUJFT t nFYJCMF BTTJHONFOUT t GVMM UJNF QPTJUJPOT t POHPJOH TVQQPSU GSPN PVS dedicated consultants Contact Randstad Care today.

Australia: +61 7 4031 8755 E: nurses@randstad.com.au www.randstad.com.au

Looking for work?

Tired of eating one minute noodles on a goon hangover?

Look no further, TNT has jobs just for backpackers - ranging from fruit picking to bar work!

FRUIT PICKING SALES HOSPITALITY LAW NURSING ADULT SERVICES SKILLED LABOUR

Legal Temping Legal Secretaries â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all areas of law Paralegals / litigation support Legal Receptionists With a reputation for quality assignments & provision of quality temp staff, we are regularly briefed on a wide variety of legal roles with law ďŹ rms & in-house departments.

Enjoy working with our approachable temp consultant Samantha to secure both short and long term assignments, to suit your lifestyle.

18+ months relevant legal experience essential 60+ wpm typing speed and strong computer skills Receive your pay the same week you work Enjoy the variety and ďŹ&#x201A;exibility of temping.

Contact us today to join our leading temp team!

tntdownunder.com/jobs

Samantha Cox lawstaff.com.au 02 9235 3399 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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TOTALLYTRIVIAL

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WHO TO BLAME

AND HOW THEY’LL SPEND AUSTRALIA DAY EDITOR

ALEX HARMON (Getting my southern cross tatt touched up)

STAFF WRITER

INTERN

CAITLIN STANWAY (Wakeboarding)

AUSSIE DIVING SCUBA RULES FOOTBALL QUIZ a) Navy Seals b) Jacques Cousteau c) Emile Gagnan d) b and c

DESIGN & PRODUCTION LISA FERRON (Drinking)

2. The dive knife is primarily used by Q divers as a:

(Serenading Gary Barlow)

Q

ACCOUNT MANAGER

JUSTIN STEINLAUF (Listening to the Hottest 100)

MIKE RAMSDEN (With lukewarm cider and a plastic dong)

FINANCIAL CONTROLLER TRISH BAILEY (With lots of bubbly)

SUDOKU PUZZLE

POURED JUGS OF WATER UPON BOOBIES. ALL IN THE NAME OF SCUBAR’S WET T SHIRT CONTEST OF COURSE CAUGHT SOME SHAKESPEARE IN THE PARK. COS WE’RE CULTURED, INNIT?

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7

5 8

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9 7

6

9

9

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1

1

5

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2 6

1

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“PIKER”

5

8 9

Bends’ also known as? a) Decompression sickness b) Caisson disease c) Diver’s disease d) All of the above

AUSSIE-ISM

9

8 3

Q 8.die?In what year did Jacques Cousteau

Q 9. What is the medical condition ‘The

Q 5. An ear squeeze can be prevented by doing what? a) Pinching nose and blowing b) Ear plugs c) Diving shallow d) Hitting yourself

4

a) Scuba Doo b) Submergible Air bag c) Aqua-lung d) Mankini

a) 1990 b) 1988 c) 1994 d) 1994

sinks nor floats is ‘what’ buoyant? a) Absolutely b) Positively c) Neutrally d) Negatively

WHAT WE DID THIS WEEK CAUGHT THE WOMEN’S TENNIS SEMI-FINAL. TWO OF THE WORLD’S SUPERPOWERS (CHINA VS USA) WENT HEAD TO HEAD. CHINA WON

3. Most surface waves are caused by? a) Earthquakes b) Wind gusts c) Motor boats d) Large birds

Q 4. A submerged object that neither

SALES EXECUTIVE

6. Approximately how many species of fish are there in the sea? a) Over 25,000 b) Less than 5,000 c) Over 50,000 d) 100,000

What was the original name of the Q 7.scuba air tank?

a) Weapon b) Instead of a speargun c) Tool d) To show off

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT TOM WHEELER

Q

Who created modern diving Q 1.equipment?

ANSWERS: 1. d 2. c 3. b 4. c 5. a 6. a 7. c 8. d 9. b

HUGH RADOJEV (Hottest 100 and beers)

6

4

If someone is being a “piker” then chances are they’re likely backing out of an arrangement or away from an argument. It can also be used as an excuse – “Sorry mate, I’m going to have pike on ya!”

AUSTRALIA DAY LONG WEEKEND JANUARY Friday 25th to Monday 28th

$5.00 KANGAROO PIZZAS

ALL WEEKEND

FRI

Get the long weekend started at Scu with DJ’s from 9pm $6 Cocktails $5 Jager $7.5 Jager + Mother

SAT

Come & celebrate Straya Day with us & all things Australian! $3.5 VB til 10.00pm $6 Cocktails till midnight

SUN

Long weekend Sunday session DJ’s from 9.00pm $4 Snakebite & cider $5 House spirits till 10.00pm

MON

Scubar’s famous CRAB RACING from 8.00pm $7.5 Snakebite jugs till 10.00pm

25th JAN 27th JAN

26th JAN 28th JAN

+61 2 9212 4244 SCUBAR.COM.AU | CNR GEORGE ST & RAWSON PL SYDNEY SCUBAR PROMOTES THE RESPONSIBLE SERVICE OF ALCOHOL.

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SAILING STYLE

DAY 3

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Whitehaven beach

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you are talking to.

s All our staff are international traveler and speak various languages

This month in celebration of our new Reef, Island, Sail trip head to our facebook page (airliebeach.com) for your chance to

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WIN A TRIP FOR 2

FREE internet with all bookings - FREE bag storage - FREE upgrades to private double cabins on some boats For more recommendations and discount prices of overnight sailing adventures www.sailingwhitsundays.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd, Top end of main street in Airlie, next door to Hogâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Breath Cafe