TNT Magazine: Australia

April 9-15 -15 2012 Issue 676 tntdownunder.com

IBNAR!RIER W EAT

A GR GALA REEF & YON IVE WRECK D E ADVENTUR

GO WILD IN THE TROPICS Finding Kakadu’s ancient wonders

I HEART MACCABEES The English rockers pop their Aussie cherry

THE NEW FIJI? Samoa: the South Pacific’s cheap paradise

T H G I L E D S ’ DEVIL

ross bs in Kings C lu c d n a rs a best b guide to the r u o h it w e ’s dark sid Find Sydney + NEWS & SPORT WHAT’S ON FILMS REVIEWS COMEDIAN MARK THOMAS

ANDREW WESTBROOK EDITOR editor@tntdownunder.com

EDITOR’S LETTER With its shiny harbour, sparkling waters and plentiful beaches, Sydney truly is a supermodel of cities. But like with the finest catwalk clothes horses, once you look past the chiseled good looks, a deliciously dark side normally awaits. And Sydney is no different, which is why this week we offer up our guide to the best drinking holes in the city’s suburb of sin – Kings Cross (p6). Happy drinking.

THIS WEEK OZ DIARY

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MUSIC & FILM

12

COMPETITION

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CELEB GOSSIP

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NEWS

24

SPORT

25

TRAVEL

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LISTINGS NSW

39

LISTINGS NT

40

LISTINGS QUEENSLAND

41

LISTINGS VIC

45

LISTINGS WA

48

LISTINGS TASMANIA

50

LISTINGS SA

51

LISTINGS FIJI

52

LISTINGS NEW ZEALAND

53

WORK

57

TRIVIAL PURSUITS

58

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FEATURES PAINTING IT RED

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A guide to the seedy, sleazy and savoury parts of Sydney’s red light district

THE BIBLE BASHERS

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London band The Maccabees on coming to Oz for the very first time

TOP END TALES

30

Avoiding crocs and climbing rocks in the NT’s Kakadu National Park

BLUE LAGOON

34

Pristine beaches, vibrant culture, cheap prices: we find paradise in Samoa

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OZDIARY EDITORIAL Editor Andrew Westbrook Staff writer Alex Harmon Editorial assistant Leigh Livingstone Contributors Tom Sturrock | Alasdair Morton | Andy Williams

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Splashtastic: surf’s up at Kirra

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Account manager Justin Steinlauf Sales executive Caroline Ward MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler Marketing assistant Leroy Meurs DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland ACCOUNTS Financial controller Trish Bailey

TNT MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Australia general manager Vicky Harris PUBLISHER TNT Multimedia Limited PRINTED BY Rural Press NEWS AAP PICTURES Getty Images | Thinkstock | AAP | TNT Images | Tourism Australia | Tourism Victoria | Tourism New South Wales | Tourism NT | Tourism Queensland | Tourism Tasmania | South Australia Tourism | Tourism Western Australia | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji | Rip Curl Australia TNT Magazine , 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 tntdownunder.com General enquiries Phone 02 8332 7500 Fax 02 9690 1314 Email enquiries@tntdownunder.com SALES ENQUIRIES

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MAIN EVENT COOLANGATTA CLASSIC GOLD COAST

Whether you’re an ironman, ironwoman or just partial to some Nutri-Grain of a morning, get down to Coolangatta Beach on the Gold Coast to compete in the biggest ocean swim of the year. Competitors tackle three of the Goldie’s best surf breaks, splashing off at Snapper Rocks. Swimmers then follow the coast north to Kirra Beach. Not the greatest swimmer? Spectators are most welcome on the sand. Budgie-smugglers optional. $35

April 15 Coolangatta Beach, Marine Parade

weekendwarriorevents.com.au

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ST KILDA BUSKING AFL SEASON: FESTIVAL LIVE

JIM JEFFERIES: COMEDY

Melbourne is playing host to the St Kilda Busking Festival every Sunday from now until May 20, from 1-4pm.

You can find all the action, from the bizarre to the hilarious, even Elvis, on Fitzroy Street. You can even become a busker yourself.

The AFL season is now in full swing with round three matches being played this weekend.

Try and fit one into your travels if possible. There are games in Melbourne, Perth, Sydney and the Gold Coast.

From Friday to Sunday, it’s all about the short shorts.

What Melbourne Comedy Festival?

If you’re in Sydney you can catch the hilarious Jim Jefferies performing at the Factory Theatre. The US-based Aussie is bringing his dirty-mouth observations back to Sydney after sell-out shows last year.

From April 15 Fitzroy St and St Kilda sea baths stkildabuskingfestival.com.au

From April13 Various grounds afl.com.au

April 14 105 Victoria Road, Marrickville Sydney factorytheatre.com.au

FREE

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests.

There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered by Australia Post.

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19/10/11 2:05:12 PM

Cross to bear Australia’s very own suburb of sin, Kings Cross is the most infamous night spot Down Under. It’s forever changing and reinventing itself but one thing remains, it is a district that needs to be seen to be believed WORDS ALEX HARMON

By day, Kings Cross is pretty scummy, but by night this suburb lights up like a Christmas tree on acid. ‘The Cross’ or ‘The Strip’, as it’s known, is an adult’s playground with the perfect balance of sleaziness, charm and excitement.

It’s the kind of place that draws you in, sometimes unintentionally. You might be having a few quiet drinks in the city and next thing you know, the sun is coming up and you’re fighting for a cab (or a kebab) on Bayswater Road. It’s kind of like the Bermuda Triangle of Sydney. Most people experience a mysterious memory loss, sometimes permanent damage and often find themselves waking up next to more than what they bargained for. But who says this is a bad thing? In short, just roll 6

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with it, let it suck you in, spit you out and bleed you, and your wallet, dry.

From the late 80s, Kings Cross was known as “The Golden Mile”. This was the period when criminals, prostitutes and corrupt cops ruled the streets. It was Kings Cross at its most dangerous: seedy and drug-infested, and many would say, it was the Cross at its best. But a commission into the corrupt handlings of the NSW police in 1995 made all of the glory run through the hands of the law. Many policemen and women were shamed and could never work again. Others fled, and some of the truly affected committed suicide.

Since then the Cross has cleaned up its act and while there are elements of the old Golden Mile that keep its reputation

as a seedy, violent and sex and drug-filled underworld, it’s just a great place to go out now. You’re more likely to see football teams, rather than gangs; police rather than pimps; and scantily clad students, rather than prostitutes – although it’s hard to tell these two types apart.

But don’t despair, you’ll still see the odd tranny-hooker, some wheelings and dealings, fights and hustling, it’s just not the playground of yesteryear where you could get away with almost anything.

You’ll find the crowds are full of young, liquor fuelled-revellers who want to have a good time. The Cross lures them in like horses to water. If you think you fit the bill, read on, if not, well you never know, it may just be horses for courses...

PIANO ROOM THE LOWDOWN: If you’re really trying to impress someone, the Piano Room, (yes it has a piano, but no, I’ve never seen it played) is a standout. It looks like a decadent New York City cocktail lounge and has sweeping views of the Cross through the wall-to-ceiling windows. Stay for the view, but don’t get too cosy unless you have the funds of a New York City banker.

WHERE: Corner of Kings Cross & Darlinghurst Roads INFO: pianoroom.com.au

THE SUGARMILL THE LOWDOWN: A fairly new pub with a trendy, slick feel to it. Attracting everyone from backpackers to businessmen to locals, it is the kind of pub that unites us all. Probably because everyone likes a $10 steak, drunken karaoke and extended happy hours. The old-school bohemian theme is infused with modern street-press music posters on the wall, so depending on which way you sway, there’s a nice balance that isn’t overly pretentious. Oh and did I mention the $3 beers?

WHERE: 33-35 Darlinghurst Road INFO: sugarmill.com.au

KIT AND KABOODLE THE LOWDOWN: One of the Cross’s more exclusive nightclubs where you can sip on a whisky straight up and mix it with Sydney’s hottest people. Straight up.

WHERE: 33-37 Darlinghurst Rd INFO: kitkaboodle.com.au

WHAAT CLUB? THE LOWDOWN: Occupying the old Le Panic site on Bayswater Road, Whaat Club? because it doesn’t yet have a name, is owned by next door’s Candy’s Apartment. The cover charge into Candy’s will get you entry into this club and probably give you a well-needed break. It’s more intimate than Candy’s and has a great outdoor area where you can watch the trash rolling down Bayswater road. Before you whip out your illuminate recycling vests, I am referring to the people.

WHERE: 20 Bayswater Road INFO: candys.com.au

TWENTY ONE THE LOWDOWN: This club opened last year and is owned by the self-proclaimed “King of the Cross”, John Ibrahim. If you get through the exclusive door policy (read: you’re not blind drunk) you’ll be rubbing shoulders/ throwing punches with footballers and other minor Sydney socialites. These guys are the new kings of the underworld, just pick up a newspaper on Monday morning and check the headlines, guarantee one of them has been in a fight/ been caught with drugs/been caught urinating on a cop car.

Classy guys, footballers.

WHERE: 12 Kellett Street INFO: twentyonesydney.com

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HUGO’S LOUNGE

TRADEMARK

THE LOWDOWN: Similar to Trademark, lots of posing from models, quasi-celebs and the beautiful people.

They look over the scum from the balcony with their noses held high. They might think they’re better and maybe they are, there’s always someone in my group that gets refused entry. It’s no wonder Hugo’s goes by the nickname “Huge Egos”.

WHERE: Level1, 33 Bayswater Road INFO: hugos.com.au

THE LOWDOWN: If you just want to spend the night posing with the hope of making the social pages, you can do so at Trademark.

This establishment also houses Piano Bar under the famous Coke sign. But it’s a lot friendlier and not as pretentious.

WHERE: 1 Bayswater Road INFO: pianoroom.com.au/ trademark

THE ROOSEVELT THE LOWDOWN: This new “small bar” is giving the Cross a good reputation, with it’s Mad Men like decor and its hot, talented bartenders who whip up fancy cocktails using liquid nitrogen like they’re magicians. They’ve also got a drink served in a gun proving alcohol and firearms can go hand in hand. It’s pretty hard to get a table in this place, and will probably be like that until there’s a new kid like it on the block.

WHERE: 32 Orwell Street

CANDY’S APARTMENT THE LOWDOWN: Next door to World Bar is the seedy underground nightclub known as Candy’s Apartment.

Step back into a debauched world with Andy Warholinspired décor and some of Sydney’s most up and coming DJs. If anything, they’ll keep you up until 6am.

WHERE: 22 Bayswater Road INFO: candys.com.au

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WORLD BAR THE LOWDOWN: Ah, backpackers, the Cross lures them in like a horse to water. And these horses sure can drink. World Bar is very popular amongst travellers. That might be because its name suggests racial harmony... or maybe it’s because of the happy hours, three levels of fun and its signature drink – the cocktailfilled teapot. Open all day and night, which is perfect because sipping out of a teacup is the norm at any given hour.

WHERE: 24 Bayswater Road INFO: theworldbar.com

EMPIRE THE LOWDOWN: Don’t dismay, there’s a bar where everyone is welcome and will satisfy those Britannia cravings. Lots of Brit-pop on rotation, continual drink specials and late night cheesy pop anthems to get you in the mood, it must be the number one hook-up spot for desperate backpackers. No need to walk 500 miles for love, they’re right here at Empire.

WHERE: 32 Darlinghurst Rd INFO: empirehotel.net

GOLDFISH THE LOWDOWN: Named for its ample people watching abilities many years ago, the Goldfish Bowl has since been renovated. Although it’s now harder to see into the bar, the people in there are much better to look at. Go figure.

Opposite the Coke sign, it’s now just called “Goldfish” and has a much better vibe, cocktail list and decor. The opening hours are still just as good and the bar always seems to be packed at 6am on a weekend when all the other bartenders from the area are letting their hair down.

WHERE: 111 Darlinghurst Rd. INFO: thegoldfish.com.au

KINGS CROSS HOTEL THE LOWDOWN: The Cross loves to reinvent itself.

Another makeover has been given to the Kings Cross Hotel, which, on the corner of Darlinghurst Road and William Street, is kind of like the entrance to the amusement park that is the Cross. It used to be a dive, but now it’s five levels of pure fun with bars, nightclubs and a 24-hour licence. Plus, on level five you get an amazing view of the glitzy strip and the Coke sign across the road.

WHERE: 248 William Street INFO: kingscrosshotel.com.au

THE BANK

IGUANA BAR

THE LOWDOWN: In the thick of Kings Cross, between kebab shops and strip joints lies this surprisingly classy joint.

Named after the bank that used to occupy the premises, it’s a plush, sophisticated bar that attracts a high class crowd. For the rest of us, well, we just feel robbed. Snap.

WHERE: 42 Darlinghurst Road INFO: thebanknightclub. com.au

THE LOWDOWN: Hidden away in the back streets, this sweet little bar is open until 6am on weekends and is a great place to unwind at the end of the night. With great lighting, booths and interesting art on the walls. If you’re unable to bring much to the table in terms of conversation at this hour, at least everyone will have something to look at.

WHERE: 15 Kellett Street INFO: iguanabar.com

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BADA BING

MANSIONS THE LOWDOWN: Kings Cross caters for everyone. Say for instance that you like playing bingo or, perhaps, you like men who dress up as women.

Well, tick both of those boxes at Mansions Hotel. Trannies like Penny Tration drop their balls from 8pm every Thursday night. Anyone for number 88? Two fat whores.

WHERE: 18 Bayswater Road INFO: mansionshotel.com.au

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SHOWGIRLS THE LOWDOWN: When the games end and you don’t fancy the ladies at Empire, the strip clubs will be calling you in... literally... the doormen will be begging you. “World famous” Showgirls houses the best erotic dancers in the country, with nude tabletop dancing, private rooms and hostesses who will be at your beck and call – for a price of course.

WHERE: 41 Darlinghurst Road INFO: worldfamousshowgirls.com.au

THE LOWDOWN: At the other end of the spectrum is Bada Bing, more of a relaxed, buck’s night kind of establishment with girls who are experts in the art of poledancing. But make sure you buy your tokens if you want to guarantee an eyeful, these ladies won’t let you sit front row for nothing.

WHERE: 70 Darlinghurst Road INFO: badabingnightspot. com.au

NEXT WEEK It’s a wrap: great Aussie film locations

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THE HUNGER GAMES FILM REVIEW by Alasdair Morton STARRING: Jennifer Lawrence, Josh Hutcherson, Stanley Tucci | CERT: M | 142mins | Out now

AMERICAN REUNION FILM REVIEW by Andrew Westbrook STARRING: Jason Biggs, Seann William Scott Alyson Hannigan | MA 15+ |113mins | Out Now

It’s almost a decade since the original American Pie gang got together for the last installment of the franchise (American Pie: The Wedding), so fears this latest sequel would be a moneygrabbing step too far were undoubtedly high. However, fans of the early dick joke and sexual escapade-based comedies will not be disappointed. Expect more of Jim’s awkward situations, even more awkward chats with his dad and, of course, Stifler. Lots of fun.

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This adaptation of Suzanne Collins’ young adult trilogy is expected to be the next Twilight-style fantasy franchise. It has the credentials – the prospective love triangle, the genre setting (this time a dystopia where young ‘uns fight to the death in the titular reality TV show) and the built-in fanbase. One thing it has over its vamp-cousn, however, is a leading lady strong enough to carry it all.

Jennnifer Lawrence stars as Katniss, a young girl in one of the poorer districts surrounding the mega-city Capitol where all the glammed-up rich folk live. Katniss is chosen to compete in the games, a battle to the death where only one can live.

Lawrence is a solid lead, balancing the bow-wielding brawn of Katniss (who has honed her sharp-shooter skills hunting for food in the forests of her home District 12) with the vulnerability of someone who is fighting for her life, handling both the action and emotional upheaval with aplomb. Woody Harrelson, looking like a washed-up rock star, is also good value as a grog-soaked former Hunger Games victor brought in to mentor the new combatant, and the film successfully satirises reality TV, mining intellectual smarts for the teeny-bopper crowd alongside all the death-arena antics. It is an action set piece or two short by blockbuster standards, though, and a little too keen on setting up its ensuing chapters to satisfy fully, but in Lawrence’s Katniss, it has a positive heroine who is better suited to today’s world, and whose plight would be rewarded by the sequel(s) there is sure to be.

GOOD FOR: Seeing a ‘star in the making’ turn from Jennifer Lawrence

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SHE STOOPS TO CONQUER

BOOK

THEATRE

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Missing those live performances at Britain’s National Theatre? There’s no need, you can catch them “live” as they are projected thousands of kilometres across the globe and into Sydney cinemas. This weekend you can view the 1773 Oliver Goldsmith mistaken identity classic, She Stoops to Conquer.

April 14-15. Various cinemas, Sydney ntlive.com

HOMELESS WORLD CUP

JEROME ISMA-AE

SPORT

GIG

Presented by The Big Issue, this football tournament, played on a floating pitch in Darling Harbour, brings together homeless men and women from across the country to play fast-paced rounds of soccer. Taking place on the water at Cockle Bay, it’s free to watch, but get down early to secure a spot pitch side.

Junior sides kick off this Saturday.

Head over to Sydney’s Chinese Laundry to catch one of the hottest prog-house DJs of the moment. Jerome Isma-Ae from Munich will be playing a three hour set in the Laundry’s cave along with Ember, A-Tonez, Foniko, Rodskeez, Athson, Sushi, Dj Rubz, Kart3L. Get in early for $5 beers, vodka and dirty laundry shots between 9-11pm.

April 12-22. Darling Harbour. Free bigissue.org.au

April 14. Sydney . From $15 chineselaundryclub.com.au

HANSON Australia, you asked for some more “Mmmbob” in your life and you got it. It’s hard to believe they’ve all gone through puberty, let alone still putting out albums. But it seems Isaac, Taylor and Zac are all grown up, all had hair cuts and are all ready to tour Oz. Bringing hits from their 1997 debut album as well as music from their upcoming fifth (who knew?) record. Catch them in Adelaide (Sept 13), Melbourne (Sept 14), Sydney (Sept 15), Gold Coast (Sept 21) and Fremantle (Sept 22).

Tickets TBA (check Fri) oztix.com.au; moshtix.com.au

TIGER LILS, PERTH

ARCHIBALD PRIZE

BAR

ART

A late night city bar at its best, this Asian-themed drinking hole offers a tasty and affordable range of snacks and cocktails accompanied by tunes bound to get you grooving. The dance floor can get hot and sweaty at the weekend but there is a cute little outdoor area where you cool off and meet some of the friendly locals.

This prestigious art prize is a favourite amongst art lovers and art fearers alike. The paintings are of well-known Australian identities, although this year’s winner is a little different, it’s a self-portrait without a face. Finalists include portraits of musicians, TV personalities and a sure crowd pleaser, the band Boy and Bear (pictured).

437 Murray Street, Perth

Until June 3. Art Gallery of NSW. From $8

BUNGY PACKAGE!

WIN

TNT has teamed up with AJ Hackett to offer two lucky readers an incredible New Zealand bungy package worth over $2,400. And you and your mate won’t just get one, but seven death defying experiences, including New Zealand’s highest bungy and the world’s first. Just head to tntdownunder.com and answer our question for your chance to win!

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CHATROOM

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Mark Thomas The comedian, author and ‘extreme rambler’ is in Melbourne right now for the comedy festival. We gave him a call and experienced some rather extreme rambling ourselves...

INTERVIEW ALEX HARMON

the wall, I reckon I could say, I know where that is. And when you walk, you bump into people along the way and they want to tell you their stories. Palestinians especially are so hospitable, one night I ended up having three dinners with three different families. It was dreadful but you can’t turn it down. So those sorts of things, when strangers take you in, it’s special.

Is there a moment that stands out?

There was a lovely bit, on top of a hill quite early in the morning when this old woman came out with a big hot pot of tea and you sit there with hot black tea and she produces homemade bread straight out of the oven and homemade goat’s milk butter and olives, and you just sit there and think, this is just incredibly unique.

The British, and slimmer, Michael Moore

Tell us about ‘Extreme Rambling’...

Well, I did a walk. I walked the length of the Israeli barrier in the West Bank. And it was in the great English tradition of going for a ramble.

You know, there have been plenty of people who have done stuff like this in the past. You go off and do things, find out about things, it’s really exciting. And the West Bank is an amazing place.

What surprised you about the place?

You know, it surprised me how beautiful it is.

It really does blind-side you, it’s stunningly beautiful. You expect it to be a desert but it’s this incredibly fertile place. We’d be walking with our guide and he’d be talking about refugees or oppression and then suddenly he’d go, “oh look, wild asparagus”. It’s absolutely amazing. It’s a very beautiful place. And it changes all the time, different terrains, different weather.

How did you prepare for the walk?

Well, physically, I live in London so I would walk to work instead of taking the Tube. But there’s nothing much that can really prepare you for it.

For example, we went to West Jerusalem to meet up with people to see if we could do the walk and we get tear gassed. It was on the wrecking mission that this happens. So it’s like, okay, there are going to be some exciting things.

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Or you could say scary things...

Well, the thing is, people live with that sort of stuff all the time and without being blasé about it, it’s kind of inevitable.

What scares you most in life then?

Well you know, I think that there are occasions when you are genuinely scared on trips like that, but the times that they occur are so intense.

For instance we got stoned by a bunch of Palestinians and we got arrested by the army.

We were actually blasé about the army, they only seem scary in retrospect, because when it’s happening you just kind of get on with it.

What is it about walking that you love?

We’re made for it, that is one of our great defining features, being a biped. And when you’re trying to figure out things like identity and land, I think walking and talking is a good way to go about it. You see a load of stuff that you wouldn’t normally see. There was one section we walked through where we just picked green almonds and ate them. I think walking means you experience the whole thing.

You don’t miss anything...

Exactly. I think the first three months when I got back, if someone showed me a picture of

And the not so lovely?

Well you have other times when you’re just walking along and suddenly the hill is completely on fire. And you realise it’s a rubbish dump on fire. That’s where people burn bits of cars and coaches with metal as a way of getting rid of the plastic and getting to the metal. It’s highly toxic and highly dangerous and highly illegal but there’s this thriving scrap metal industry and it’s in the middle of nowhere. And then two minutes later another car comes past driven by kids with two other kids sitting on the bonnet – and no one bats an eyelid.

You took on Coke a few years back. Is there another brand you’d like target?

Off the top of my head, no, but let’s put it this way – I am never going to be short of material.

Do you get compared to Michael Moore?

I do on occasion. He’s a good guy. I did some benefits in the run-up to the Iraq invasion and he helped out. On one hand I wish people would be a bit more creative, but on the other hand I think, well that’s okay, if you’re going to be compared to someone. I personally think I am a slimmer version of Michael Moore.

Catch Mark Thomas at the Melbourne International Comedy Festival. Until Apr 22. comedyfestival.com.au

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HOW TO ENTER

Go to tntdowunder.com and click on the WIN page. See webpage for terms and conditions. Winners will be selected at random.

WIN AN AMAZING CAIRNS AND YONGALA DIVE ADVENTURE There are several things that you simply have to do while you’re in Australia.

No complaining, ‘nuff said. See a kangaroo, for example, or meet Karl Kennedy. Best of all, however, is the Great Barrier Reef, which is why TNT has got together with some diving buddies to offer this fantastic prize...

THIS PRIZE INCLUDES: PRO DIVE CAIRNS: A three-day, two-night liveaboard dive trip for one certified diver or snorkeller, valued at $650. You will get: • 11 dives (including two night dives) • All dive and snorkelling equipment – including dive computer, long leg wetsuits and dive torch • Accommodation transfers (Cairns City & Northern Beaches) • All meals & bed linen Double or twin share accom.

• Guided orientation and night dive • Dive insurance

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YONGALA DIVE: A one-day diving package for two people, including full gear and two dives each, valued at $460.

This is your chance to experience Australia’s most celebrated wreck dive, the SS Yongala, from Alva Beach, Ayr. Meet giant gropers, huge marble rays, schooling barracuda, sea snakes, turtles and much more. It’s a dive you will never forget.

Competition closes midnight AEST Sunday, May 13, 2012. Log on to tntdownunder.com for further details and to enter.

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Additional packages and passes available.

Visit greatsouthernrail.com.au/backpackers or book with your licensed travel agent.

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Clockwise: The Maccabees are on the cusp of rockstardom; big festivals have come calling; singer Orlando Weeks; guitarist Felix White

Keeping side More thanit awest Mentalist 18

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Living the dream London-based band The Maccabees are known as a lot of things: 'The new Coldplay', Brixton Academy-fillers, Fulham fans. One thing you can't accuse them of being is ungrateful for their success WORDS ALEX HARMON

Although a lot of northern-hemisphere folk cite deadly animals, BBQs and bronzed girls in bikinis when they’re asked about Australia, Felix White from The Maccabees uses the Australian cricket team as a reference point for the country. The sports-mad guitarist admits, "I love them – I grew up thinking I hated them and now that players like Shane Warne have retired and they're doing different stuff, I'm like, 'Ooh, I really like him'. So when I think of Australia, I think of the cricket team."

The five-piece known as The Maccabees are heading to Australia in May for the Groovin' The Moo Festival – their first time on Aussie soil. Although it might not be cricket season, the festival will take them to regional parts of Australia, not just the usual ports of call scheduled for most artists visiting the country. White seems suitably excited by the band's itinerary.

"We're always jealous of bands that get to tour Australia.

It’s nice to be ticking that box," he says. "And Public Enemy are on the lineup. That is like the coolest thing ever."

Formed in 2003 when guitarist Hugo White rounded up schoolmates Orlando Weeks (vocals) and Robert Dylan Thomas (drums), The Maccabees' original lineup was completed with the addition of Felix, Hugo's younger brother. They've since been joined by bassist Rupert Jarvis, and, since the second album, Sam Doyle on drums. Being in a band with your brother, is there much rivalry? "Oh god no, my other brother Will is involved as well – he plays keys for us live and on the record as well," White says. "We get on just great. We kind of argue the least out of everyone.

I know it's boring but it is the truth."

White is refreshingly down-to-earth and claims the band's success is down to hard work. "I always thought there was some secret or trick to being in a band, but when you get to our stage you realise it's just persistence."

The band have just released their third album, a follow-up to 2009’s Wall of Arms, entitled Given To The Wild, it is the product of two years of writing and recording.

The Times called their latest release a "Maccabees' renaissance album", which for such a young band is a compliment laden with responsibility. Is it their best album so far? "I'm sure all bands will tell you their latest one is their best one. I genuinely do think it's massively new ground for

“

We were sick of writing in a room – it started to feel limiting

”

us and I'm dead proud of it," White says.

The writing process was different this time around. For several months, The Maccabees went their separate ways, individually creating their own textures for the album. And that time apart has perhaps infused the album with a more unique, layered sound.

"After the second album we were kind of sick of writing in a room together and it started to feel a bit limiting.

Basically, we got much better at writing with Logic [a computer programme] and doing the production ourselves so we would send loops back and forth to each other," White says. "It has ended up being a different record to anything we've ever done. I think it has a lot more character and personality and a lot more eccentricities."

The album is gaining recognition for a band that still seesaw between being a small indie band and fully-fledged rockstars. "We're at a funny stage because we're starting to play really big festivals at home, but then we also do the smaller clubs abroad," White says. "One week, we're playing to thousands of people and another week there's just a few people in the club."

However, it's safe to say things are looking up for the boys who once missed out on a local Battle of the Bands title to a girl-group called Red, who, according to their website "played covers, had massive afros and wore miniskirts".

If they are to be catapult into becoming world-famous rockstars, White's level-headedness will hopefully keep The Maccabees' feet firmly on the ground. Asked if he could have anything on his rider in Australia, he settles for some humble pistachio nuts. "But I would be happy if I never saw another ham sandwich again," he quickly qualifies.

The band spent six years earning their crust – no pun TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Photos: Getty Images

White relished the opportunity to interview Fulham footballers and (inset) the band's latest album, Given To The Wild intended – and it seems the hard work is paying off in 2012.

It's not just the Australia tour; they've also been added to the Reading and Leeds festivals. Lead singer Weeks told NME recently it was "an honour to be so high up the bill".

“

We were thinking of what to call the band and a mate was flicking through the Bible

”

It appears Given To The Wild has started opening doors for the band, but it's often perks outside the music that register most satisfyingly. White, a massive Fulham Football fan, gushes about the welcome fringe benefits that accompany being a more widely recognised band: "The Maccabees have been invited by Fulham Football Club to go and interview the players. Little things like that, you just think, I'm living the dream right now. It's beyond cool."

Given White's thick south London accent and passion for Fulham FC, it's a mystery why The Maccabees are so often referred to as a "Brighton band".

"Orlando, the singer, who kind of got the band going, did a degree down there while we were in London," White explains. "We decided to join him there and did some excuses for degrees in Brighton. We all dropped out after six months. Fortunately we got a record deal within that year 20

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and moved back to London. We were lucky."

One Wikipedia 'fact' he does confirm is the origin of the band's name. Rumour has it they flicked through the Bible and settled on the name of a Jewish rebel army.

"Yeah, it is true – we try and think of better stories for this question" White says. "But yeah, we were thinking about what to call the band and a mate of ours was flicking through the Bible and said, 'The Maccabees'. That was that."

You’re not a Bar Mitzvah band on the side? "Ha, no, it doesn’t mean anything else to us other than just a cool name for a band. And I still think it is."

Critics, as they like to do, have touted The Maccabees as all sorts of things, from "The British Arcade Fire" to "The new Coldplay" to "The new Oasis", a compliment that strikes a chord with White. "The first album I ever bought was (What’s the Story) Morning Glory? It was an inspiring record at such a young age," he says.

Although White shrugs off these flighty record company terms, he's willing to admit to a few starstruck moments in the industry. "A couple of years ago I ran into Andy Bell from Oasis. When I saw him, something from my childhood just came back and my stomach jumped. I had a brief chat with him and he was lovely," White recalls. "You wouldn't necessarily be starstruck meeting people you respect now, but it's funny how those pop stars from when you were young always have that effect." ❚ The Maccabees are playing Groovin' The Moo, which hits Bendigo (May 5), Townsville (May 6), Maitland (May 12) and Canberra (May 13). They're also playing solo shows in Brisbane (May 9), Sydney (May 10), Melbourne (May 16) and Perth (May 18) themaccabees.co.uk

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Boags. James Boags

SKYFALL HITS ROCK BOTTOM [UK]

WOULD YOU LIKE BECKS WITH THAT? [UK]

Speaking of sell-outs, David Beckham has appeared in an advert for Burger King. Another seamless fit, because sports and fast food go hand in hand.

In the same week he was also the poster boy for Sainsbury’s active kids campaign. Hypocrite much? I think I’m too sensitive, after all, he’s promoting fruit smoothies which are, apparently, low calorie. So you can rest easy clogging up your arteries with burgers and fries because 22

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Mutton dressed as holy lamb: Nice try Katy but putting on some festive colours, covering up your tits and slapping on a bindi does not a good Indian lady make. Katy Perry is in India, the place she tied the knot with Russell Brand, to open the Premier League cricket in Chennai. Here she is trying to talk to chairman Rajiv Shukla. at least your smoothie won’t kill you!

It has the Becks guarantee, kids!

I’m just going to admit defeat, like Jessie J said, “everyone’s got a price”.

Even she does, she’s currently promoting Vitamin Water.

KRIS FREE OF THE COUGAR [AUSTRALIA]

Dannii Minogue has split from her pretty little handbag Kris Smith.

The couple announced the relationship broke down via Twitter but there are no clues yet as to why.

The couple have been together for four

years and have a 21 month old son Ethan.

Where’s the dirt you ask? Well, they’re still in “break-up honeymoon period”, which means they’re being very nice to each other.

Minogue tweeted: “We still care for each other and ask for privacy at this difficult time, in particular for our son Ethan who remains our number one priority.” While Kris said: “Dannii and I have a deep mutual love and respect for each other, bla bla bla... we have a son.”

The next time they mention their son it better be in reference to his nanny and the affair she had with one of them.

Photos: Getty Images

Bond. James Bond. It has more commercial appeal than Ronald McDonald driving a Merc. Which is why the new Bond movie, Skyfall, is big business for advertisers. And it seems Daniel Craig is one easy sell.

Apparently 007 will not be ordering his trademark vodka martini when he visits the bar. Instead, he will order a Heineken.

That’s right, Bond is going bogan.

Heineken USA have secured a deal with Craig ahead of the new film, he’ll also appear in a series of commercials.

Talk about tarnishing the image.

His catch phrase, “shaken, not stirred” is going to have disastrous results when he orders a bottle of Heineken.

Sure, it worked in the Austin Powers movie, when Mike Myers said: “Get your hands off my hiney,” but not James Bond.

He’s classy, he drives an Aston Martin, not fuel efficient hatchback. Is that at risk too?

Bottom line, it’s wrong. Bond without a martini is like Carrie Bradshaw ordering a Jack and coke. Don Draper wearing a nicotine patch. You know I’m right.

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TWEETS OF THE WEEK @JessicaSimpson “Sometimes I feel like I’m so full of love I could explode” @JenniferLoveHewitt “Guys get their periods too. They don’t always know how to work the TV remote but the best ones can make you smile” @MarioLopez “I’m such a dork...

Running around the park shooting and riding all the rides. Even though I’m not feeling well”

Half his age? That’s Hilaria

@BrunoMars “Boobs :)”

DOWNWARD DOG TO DOWN THE AISLE

@ParisHilton “Taking off back to LA. Had the best time in Australia. Love it here so much, can’t wait to come back soon!”

[USA]

There’s only one thing more clichéd than screwing the nanny and that is marrying your yoga instructor, but let’s hear it for Alec Baldwin and his fiancée, Hilaria, 28 – a yoga instructor.

I checked the dates and it was two days after April Fool’s, so it’s no joke. I also checked and Hilaria is a very common name in Spain, where she is from.

And if you need further proof of their engagement, the bloodthirsty media of New York have been on the hunt for pictures of Hilaria ever since the news broke. Alec went on yet another Twitter rant: “Shame on the no-talent trash from the Daily News for invading the privacy of 75 people in a yoga class to take a picture of someone,” he tweeted.

He seems almost as mad as the time American Airlines forbade him from playing Words With Friends. Almost, I said.

GOD SAVE THE QUEEN’S GRANDKIDS [UK]

If you’re a prince, the last thing you’d fly is easyJet, right? A magic flying carpet is more believable. But not if you’re Prince William. He takes his princess to the Alps – economy style.

Wills and Catherine enjoyed a week skiing in the French Alps, which is common, but what isn’t common (hang on, it is common) is the way they returned – by climbing aboard an easyJet flight.

This after Prince Harry moved into their palace to seemingly help out with the rent.

Either the royal family are the world’s biggest tight-arses or they’re hiding something. The monarchy up to their crowns in debt? You heard it here first.

@DanniiMinogue “Hi Tweet peeps.

Needing to retreat for a while.

Thank you for your ever loving continued support” @StephenFry “Recited the sonnet about “my mistress’ eyes” etc.

A mistress, as you may know, is something between a mister and a mattress” @SamanthaRonson “Remember when you were a kid and u thought being a grown up would be awesome? It isn’t”

Ego? Who me?

WHO DO YOU THINK YOU ARE? NO, REALLY [UK]

A musical involving five of the biggest musical divas in England. Now what could possibly go wrong? Well, considering none of the Spice Girls are even in the production, quite a lot.

The musical is being written by comedienne Jennifer Saunders and according to sources, she’s severely pissed off with all the Spice Girl bickering. In particular two of the divas who can’t seem to agree. I don’t want to point any fingers but let’s just say they’re rather sporty and rather scary. These two have been holding up the production which has been in the works since 2010.

The musical is about a mother who takes her daughter to a talent competition, against the backdrop of the Spice Girls’ soundtrack. Either Jennifer’s got her work cut out for her to make that believable, or it’s going to be one short show, because anyone who performs “Spice Up Your Life” at an audition isn’t going far.

QUOTE OF THE WEEK I love Prince Harry. I had a dream last night I married Harry and was a reallife princess

Well, Cheryl Cole, Prince Harry does love to tarnish the family name...

WEIRDNEWS

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Warhol’s famous soup prints

WARHOL PIECE TURNS UP IN GARAGE SALE UNITED KINGDOM

A keen-eyed art-lover who picked up an original Andy Warhol sketch for $5 at a Las Vegas garage sale has been told the piece could be worth millions.

In 2010, Andy Fields bought the signed work, on tattered paper, believed to have been etched by Warhol when he was either 10 or 11. Experts have hailed it the earliest example of the late American’s Pop Art, for which he became famous decades later.

“It’s an incredibly important work. It redefines the work of one of the most famous artists of the last 100 years,” Fields said. “It moves the birth of Pop Art back two decades, showing Warhol was already doing that sort of stuff at a far younger age. I’m not interested in the financial gain for now. It’s only right that great art should be shared.”

After learning of the sketch’s value, Fields spent weeks trying to find the man who sold it to him but had no luck. “I needed to find out everything he knew about it – but he’d vanished,” he said.

FINALLY, THE FLYING CAR HAS ARRIVED THE NETHERLANDS

It may have taken them longer than many expected but engineers have finally built a flying car.

The PAL-V can be configured as a gyrocopter, meaning lift is generated by an auto-rotating rotor on top with forward speed generated by a propeller on the back. Its top speed is the same on the ground as in the air, around 180km an hour.

When the machine is not being flown these surfaces fold away allowing the vehicle to be driven quickly on its three wheels. Its manufacturers says it takes off and lands with low speed, cannot stall, and is extremely easy to control, making it one 24

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Night of the Living Dead Gorillas: Don’t worry, it’s not a zombified King Kong but one of the pieces on exhbition at London’s Natural History Museum. The collection, Animal Inside Out, offers an eye-opening glimpse of various animals’ anatomy

of the safest types of aircraft.

“If you want to fly over a mountain you can do that and then drive at the other end and go to your destination or fly over water or past a traffic jam of course,” PAL-V CEO and co-founder Robert Dingemanse said.

“All those kind of things are possible now.”

WOMAN DELIVERS KITTENS BY C-SECTION AUSTRALIA

Cat-breeder Shelley Hayward was forced to take drastic action when she found her heavily pregnant cat, Ruby, having a fit. ”I performed mouth-to-

mouth. I had no option. I tried to get her heart going. It got to the point when I had to give up,” she said.

When the cat died, Hayward could see the kittens moving. “The kittens were not getting the oxygen supply they needed,” she said. “I had to find a way to get in there. I could see the kittens moving and they were getting less and less active, so I knew any longer and they wouldn’t be with us.”

Having grown up on a farm, she got out her cat breeder’s delivery kit, which included a scalpel and scissors. Working as quickly as possible, Hayward managed to get all six kittens out alive. Sadly, though, two died days later.

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QUOTES OF THE WEEK We W e are becoming a laughing stock. Being a Liverpool fan is just embarrassing

Wayne Rooney is backing his boys in

ROONEY WANTS TO SEAL TITLE AT CITY

BALOTELLI URGED TO SMARTEN UP

FOOTBALL

Manchester United striker Wayne Rooney believes his side can sew up the league title by winning the Manchester derby on April 30.

“We can go there and win. We just have to be ourselves and play our normal football,” Rooney said. “There are three points up for grabs. We won’t be doing anything different.”

FOOTBALL

Manchester City midfielder Nigel de Jong has hinted that although striker Mario Baoltelli might be brilliant, he has some growing up to do.

“Sometimes Mario is a fool and at other times he is a genius. He has two sides.

Many people expect a crazy stunt of him,” De Jong said. “But he knows that he has to become more serious-minded.”

Liverpool legend John Aldridge goes in studs-up following Liverpool’s worst run since 1953

I un understand better h Mourinho gets why upset every time he plays here AC Milan striker Zlatan Ibrahimovic has a little cry after his side were beaten 3-1

by Barcelona

SWEET AS The original Kiwi Experience, since 1989 100% awesome Kiwi Driver Guides Stacks of inclusions and exclusive discounts Get immersed in nature, adventure and kiwi culture

Hot Water Beach, New Zealand

www.kiwiexperience.com

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HOTSHOTS

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WINNER

WEEKLY WINNER

HOT TIPS: Framing

INSTANT PARADISE: Waylon Thompson, 25, from England WAYLON SAYS: ”This picture was taken while driving around Savai’i in Samoa. You don’t always need a fancy camera to take a good shot, this was taken on my smart phone.”

THE MONTHLY WINNER GETS THREE DAYS CAR HIRE FROM TRAVELLERS AUTOBARN Photos are judged by ROUGH GUIDES senior photo editor Mark Thomas each month. Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description, to: travel@tntdownunder.com Weekly winner Waylon wins a free night’s stay at the award-winning Sydney Central YHA (yha.com.au). The monthly winner gets three days car hire from Travellers Auto Barn. The runner-up wins a Rough Guides book of their choice sent to an Oz or NZ address. roughguides.com

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WIN

Good framing is fundamental to great photography, and makes the difference between boredom and fascination. Bear in mind that what you leave out is as important as what you include. When shooting, you should think about what it is that makes this scene interesting to you. What caught your eye? Was it something tangible? A building, a door-handle, a person? Or was it more abstract: a reflection, a juxtaposition, a perspective? Through the use of proper framing, you are allowing the viewer to see what you saw. Your choice of lens is therefore an important framing device: a macro lens can capture minute detail, while a wide-angle lens can be used to capture vast scale, for example.

So experiment with different ones and see how it turns out.

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ON THE ROAD WITH TRAVEL

TALK KYLE CWYNAR 24, USA WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN SO FAR?

Cairns, Brisbane, Surfers Paradise, Melbourne and all over Sydney.

FAVOURITE PLACE?

YOU ASKED FOR IT...

WE ANSWER YOUR TRAVEL QUESTIONS

I love the feeling of Sydney – I am glad to have called this place home for six months. Circular Quay will always have a place in my mind.

MOST MEMORABLE MOMENT IN OZ?

is a big country – what’s the Q Australia best way to get around and see it all?

Peter Lakeman, USA seven-and-a-half-thousand square A At kilometres, it may be the smallest continental land mass, but it’s the world’s largest island, and with a population of 22 million, 85 per cent of whom live along its 26,000 kilometres of coast, it may have also occurred to you that there must be a lot of Australia that is uninhabited. Clearly if you are going to get around Oz, it’s going to take a bit of planning and some form of transportation. Cycling is a possibility, but it’s unlikely you have the time or inclination to sweat, puff, roast and possibly die in the unforgiving outback. So what are your options? A plane gets you places fast, but leaves a big carbon footprint. Sometimes a plane can actually be the most economical way to travel, thanks to Australia’s highly competitive domestic market, especially if you only have time for a couple of destinations. But air travel dislocates you from the journey and removes you from any adventure. You didn’t come here to jet set around in an air-conditioned bubble. You want the wind in your hair and the kangaroos hopping across your path. A bus puts you on the ground, seeing the sights, but only stops where it wants to stop, never venturing into the unknown to explore. It seems the obvious choice is your own wheels. You can rent one, but that can get very pricey if you’re looking to travel long-term.

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Alternatively, a used car or van can be pretty cheap, most backpackers paying somewhere in the region of $1,000 to $4,000. Now clearly, those sort of prices are down the bottom end of the market, so you need to have your wits about you to avoid buying yourself a deathtrap (and a huge mechanic’s bill). However, if you choose well, the rewards will be fantastic. You can sleep in it to save more money and you have total freedom to stop and go, when and where you want. Plus, you might make most, if not all, of your money back when you sell it on at the end of your trip. living in Melbourne but want to Q I’m spend a peaceful day by the seaside.

Any suggestions? Emma Parker, UK out Sorrento, a chic seaside town A Check just an hour-and-a-half out of Melbourne.

This little gem is situated on the well-known Mornington Peninsula and is a bustling, fashionable hub in the summer and a sleepy village in the winter. There’s a great range of cafés and restaurants to keep you full and happy. Dolphin-watching is a popular activity for visitors, organised cruises and tours departing regularly. It’s a popular detour after or before the Great Ocean Road and if you’re keen to stay, there’s a backpackers hostel in the town. Before you go, download the song “Sorrento Moon”

by Aussie singer Tina Arena, who spent her childhood holidays in the area.

Surfing at Maroubra was pretty intense. I don’t know if you could call it ‘surfing’ as much as ‘tempting fate’, but it was exhilarating. The waves were about 5ft and I got my butt kicked.

BIGGEST SURPRISE ABOUT OZ?

Authorities have senses of humour and welcome the fun while keeping the peace.

DONE ANYTHING DIFFERENT?

Got to see an amazing Big Bash League match between Sydney Sixers and Perth Scorchers. In the US we have baseball in the summer.

CRAZIEST EXPERIENCE?

New Year’s Eve at Luna Park. With the bright lights, dancing crowds, games, rides, good drinks and good company.

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XXXXXX TOP FIVE TRAVELLERSTALE

PEARL HARBOUR

Briton VICTORIA LOGAN discovers diamonds may be a girl’s best friend, but pearls pay the rent in Darwin...

While travelling, I have found myself doing jobs I wouldn’t normally do at home due to wanting to make my time here that little bit more memorable.

From tree planting in Perth and car washing in Cairns, Darwin was to prove just as unique.

Me and my travel buddy Chloe, who I met in Sydney seven months ago and has become my BFF ever since, signed up for work on the pearl boats. Fully aware of how demanding the job is and of how difficult it is to actually get the work, we jumped at the chance when we got the call.

We flew on the smallest plane known to man and my nerves were shot to bits. Chloe’s observation of “there’s only one pilot, what do we do if he has a heart attack?!” didn’t really help the situation.

But soon enough we arrived safely on Crocker Island. We were picked up

by Bear, a larger than life character who had no hesitation in asking, “Are you girls a couple?”

With the important things out of

the way, we learned a bit more about our role for the next 10 days. Bear explained we would be living at Point David, with a crew of about 10 guys.

Everyday at 6am we would go out to meet the boat and process the shells – 31,000 shells to be exact. We would work until 4.30pm every day, then come back to the island where we would have the evenings to ourselves.

Although we weren’t sure what was exactly involved in the “processing”, we were more than happy to become part of the team. We were introduced to the boys and put straight to work.

If we were in any doubt of our job description, it became clear the moment we stepped onto the boat.

Obvious that every team member would inevitably finish work each day covered in what can only be described as “fish goo”.

Regardless of this, we pulled on our overalls and stepped up. There were apparently six easy steps. Open the shell; remove the pearl; scrape the meat out; scrub the shell with a metal brush until it gleams; rinse the shell in salt water and finally, put the shell in buckets marked either A, B or

C, dependent on size and shape. That process was repeated from 6am until 4.30pm everyday in 35°C heat and 100 per cent fish stench!

With about 15 backpackers and 10 crew already working on the boat, it was good to know we weren’t the only crazy people in town.

We got through it though. We learned to live with the constant smell of fish guts, finding new ways to keep ourselves entertained.

Thomas, our new Dutch friend, told us stories of how he was related to Elvis, while the skipper Steve told very inappropriate jokes.

Every so often during the day we would wash down the boat of all the fish remains and bad pearl meat and watch the assortment of fish and sharks that would come to the surface for their daily afternoon feast. This in turn led us to a new found hobby, fishing.

After work the boys would sit on the end of the pier, watch the sunset and fish. I use the term “fish” loosely – we didn’t catch any fish throughout the duration of the trip.

We grew more and more attached to island life and also to our group.

But after 10 days it was time to go back to Darwin and get a proper job.

Crocker Island, however, will always have a very special place for these two wandering travellers.

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From Cape Trib to Mission Beach, the tropical north is a land of thrills, spills and hangovers

Kakadu NORTHERN TERRITORY Photos: Tourism NT

30

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Welcome to croc country The scenery of Kakadu National Park is spectacular, but it’s the sharp-toothed inhabitants that keep the visitors flocking to the north WORDS ANDY WILLIAMS

Before coming to Australia, three commandments were handed to me from on high – by my Mum, in other words.

Firstly, never mention Australia’s convict past. Secondly, never be coaxed into a debate about any sport in which Australia and England compete – because, being English, I would never win – and thirdly, and most importantly, never, ever sample the notoriously dangerous Aussie bush.

Not because I might catch something nasty, but because something nasty might catch me.

It’s amazing this continent was ever settled considering the number of lethal creatures that can bring a swift end to an otherwise merry day. Toxic jellyfish, man-eating sharks, and venomous snakes are all beasts best avoided, but I was on the search for Australia’s apex predator, a killer so perfect it has cheated evolution for 200 million years. I was heading to Kakadu National Park in search of the infamous saltwater crocodile.

benign, attacking only when provoked. Salties, like that one there, however, are different,” he says, casually pointing to a violent eruption of bubbles off the port bow.

“Those monsters are the largest reptiles on this planet. They can weigh 1,000kg, grow up to seven metres in length, far longer than this boat, and will attack without provocation.”

I realise then that I’m breaking the third commandment and, had I been in the water, I, too, would have been blowing bubbles.

“

Toxic jellyish and venomous snakes are best avoided

”

MORE COCKS THAN JENNA JAMESON

Photos: Tourism NT

Few places rival Kakadu for wildlife. The park has more species of lizard than the whole of Europe, is home to 2,000 species of plant and 10,000 species of insect, and at the end of the dry season in October, the park becomes a bird nerd’s paradise, with more tits, cocks and boobies than a Jenna Jameson flick.

I head east from Darwin in a 4WD filled with tanned Scandinavians, past termite mounds, road trains and a very lost croc yawning lazily by the road side. At Mamukala bird sanctuary, our guide, Adam, introduces us to magpie geese, black crested cockatoos – worth a tempting US$40,000 on the black market – and a pair of brolga; the symbol of the Northern Territory. All very well, but we’re looking for killers, so in a storm of bright red dust we shoot across to the Mary River and board a tiny tin-can vessel for a voyage into the heart of darkness.

I settle into a gentle meander up the mirror-flat billabong, bumping into the park’s beautiful but safe animal and plant-life; giant lily-pads, cute wallabies, and mangroves filled with jabiru and darters. I’m itching to see a croc when our captain, Chris, begins his commentary.

“Freshwater crocs are endemic to Australia and are relatively

BEFORE YOU CAN MOO Although threatened by extinction in 1971, crocodile numbers are again on the rise and the Mary River is full of them.

To my right, two salties fight over territory. In front, a four-metre croc warms itself on the bank. To my left, a row of freshies line up like tree trunks in the shallows. We’re surrounded.

“A saltwater croc can happily snatch an 800kg buffalo from the banks of a river and drag it into the depths before it can moo,” Chris claims, “and the pressure in its bite is greater than that in the brakes of a jumbo jet.”

What chance would I, an 80kg man, have, sitting in a boat just inches above the water? I have seen crocs on the Adelaide River leap three metres out of the water, so when a fresh set of bubbles disappears under the boat, I know we should move on.

And luckily, we do.

Kakadu is World Heritage-listed for both its natural and cultural attractions, so after returning to terra firma with all limbs attached, I head east to Ubirr, one of Australia’s best and oldest rock art sites.

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UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL COME FACE TO FACE WITH AUSTRALIA’S DEADLIEST PREDATOR DURING A RIDE IN THE CAGE OF DEATH Houdini swims past, just inches from my face, and looks me straight in the eye. The piercing, almost dismissive, glance is clear. His teeth practically sparkle. I can almost hear him thinking: “I want to eat you”, writes Andrew Westbrook.

In case you’re confused, I’m not suffering a cannibalistic vision of the famous escapologist. I’m treading water in the Cage of Death, one of Darwin’s most nerve-jangling adrenalin thrills. The Houdini I’m sharing the water with happens to be a giant saltwater crocodile, who would love nothing more than for me to escape the floating plastic box that currently separates us.

When it came time for us to get in, it was hard not to suddenly feel very, very vulnerable as, dressed only in our swimmers, we looked down the ladder into the perspex box floating idly on top of the crocodile pool.

Being the gentleman of course, I let my girlfriend descend first. The water was crystal clear, our vision through the surrounding plastic was perfect, while the massive scratch and claw marks leave little doubt that some very hungry predators had had some determined goes at getting inside. Underneath lurk Houdini and Bess. Lady croc Bess, measuring in at just under 3m, is not what you’d call a small girl. But she looked tiny compared to her hulk of a man – Houdini. Weighing over 600kg and stretching almost 5m, there’s no getting around it... he’s a monster.

Plus, as I was starting to regret having just learnt, Houdini was by no means just brawn, and had earned his nickname for a reason, thanks to apparently being an expert escape artist.

The cage hits the water, which starts coming up

32

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through the floor, gradually submerging us into the world of the salty. Our safe haven keeps falling until we’re waist deep in water, Houdini’s water. Snorkels on, we head down for a closer look. They’re hanging close to the wall, seemingly uninterested but keeping an observant eye on us, dreaming of a tourist sandwich.

Suddenly Bess is on the move. Giving her man the cold shoulder, she comes in for a closer look.

Predictably enough, Houdini knows his place and sets off in pursuit. He slowly and effortlessly cruises up towards us. For such a massive animal, it’s incredible how gracefully he moves.

He hovers, his huge head just inches from mine with only the plastic and a bit of water between us. There’s no doubt that without the plastic he’d be ripping me to shreds in a second. And would absolutely love it. After staring us out for a while, he carries on past and is gone, leaving us buzzing from the encounter.

BEAUTIFUL BUT LETHAL

JUMP TO IT SALTIES WITH A SPRING IN THEIR STEP Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d probably be able to swim in the Adelaide River, just outside Darwin, for about seven seconds before getting a toothy handshake from the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest reptile â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the saltwater croc. So I decide itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s probably best to get a boat.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m in a vessel marginally longer than the seven metres that salties can grow to, while our croc feeder dangles a bit of buffalo meat from the end of a stick into the water. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take long for one of the four-legged fiends to swim up and suddenly, whoosh, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out of the water.

The croc is so near the

boat, leaping up so that even its rear legs are out of the water, that I could probably put my hand in its mouth.

Big, scary, maneating creatures I knew they were, but never before have I seen their incredible speed and power so close up. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s hard to do anything but gape open-mouthed as one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most ruthless predators demonstrates exactly what it would like to do to me.

Again. And again.

The area has been inhabited for 50 millennia, and is home to over 5,000 rock art sites, some of which date back 20,000 years. The walls and caves are wallpapered with amazing mouth-sprayed stencils and X-ray drawings of goannas and barramundi in ochre reds and golds. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fantastic introduction to the culture and traditions of the local Aboriginal people, who only regained ownership rights to the park in 1976.

The day ends sublimely, drinking in the views over the termite mounds and wetlands of the Nardab floodplain â&#x20AC;&#x201C; where parts of Crocodile Dundee were filmed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; across to the cliffs of Arnhem Land, until the heat leaves the sky.

I head to the beautiful paper bark swamps of Yellow Water, where crocs inch silently through marble flat waters to watch a sunset burnt red by the smoke from distant fires.

At 20,000 square kilometres, Kakadu is as big as Wales, and even if you cover every inch of road and track, you will still see less than one per cent of the park. It takes two hours to meander 60km along dry creek beds to Twin Falls, where I board a boat and sail through a burning red canyon on a creek filled with barramundi and turtles.

The canyon ends where the falls crashes into a crystalclear plunge pool (no swimming allowed) by a beautiful white-sand The Kimberley: beach. True Australiana: Finding Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful and remote, final frontier yet ultimately lethal. â?&#x161;

NEXT WEEK

([ 2HRHK\ +YLHTZ ^L VÉ&#x2C6;LY UH[\YL IHZLK J\S[\YHSS` HJ[P]L [V\YZ VM [OL 2HRHK\ 5H[PVUHS 7HYR ^P[O [OL LTWOHZPZ IHZLK VU ¸OHUKZ VUš SLHYUPUN HUK M\U 6\Y [V\YZ HYL HPTLK H[ [OL HK]LU[\YL [YH]LSSLY SVVRPUN MVY HU L_WLYPLUJL YH[OLY [OHU Q\Z[ HUV[OLY ZPNO[ZLLPUN [V\Y ^L RLLW H^H` MYVT JYV^KZ 2HRHK\ 5H[PVUHS 7HYR JV]LYZ ZX\HYL RPSVTL[YLZ HUK PZ JSHZZPMLK HZ H >VYSK /LYP[HNL HYLH MVY IV[O P[Z J\S[\YHS ]HS\LZ HUK P[Z UH[\YHS ZPNUPĂ&#x201E;JHUJL ,_WLYPLUJL HSS [OH[ 5VY[OLYU (\Z[YHSPH OHZ [V VÉ&#x2C6;LY

Freecall 1 800 813 266 PU[LYUH[PVUHS www.kakadudreams.com.au LTHPS! PUMV'RHRHK\KYLHTZ JVT H\ TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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From its vibrant culture to its idyllic landscapes, Samoa is the perfect getaway

Samoa SOUTH PACIFIC

Photos: Samoa Tourism Authority/David Kirkland, TNT Images/Andrew Westbrook

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Paradise found Postcard-perfect beaches? Tick. Vibrant culture? Tick. Cheap prices?

Tick. It’s got to be Fiji right? Wrong. It’s time to welcome the new kid on the South Pacific’s backpacking block. Say hello to Samoa WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK

Photos: Samoa Tourism Authority/David Kirkland, TNT Images/Andrew Westbrook

Stepping foot in a strange, unwesternised land for the first time, having travelled through the night with no sleep, there’s certain things you learn to brace yourself for on arrival, with the excitement of discovering a new place tinged with the anxiety of getting through those first few hours. Concentration is the order of the day as you negotiate your way past grumpy customs officials and money-hungry touts pushing everything from taxis to tours.

Arriving in Samoa, however, things are not as we expect. We’re immediately met by a sign declaring, “welcome to paradise”. Fair enough, I think. After all, every airport in the world loves a bit of friendly national marketing.

However, that’s just the start as, and maybe it’s the lack of sleep talking here, by the time we’ve made it into the glaring morning sun outside Faleolo International Airport, after swaying to the live quartet singing away next to the luggage carousel, and got past the beaming customs man who kept calling women with babies to the front of the queue, I’m starting to think that Samoa may well be some kind of paradise.

WHEN TO GO: Samoa is a great year-round destination, but bear in mind you’ll need to book ahead during peak season (AugustSeptember) and you’ll be soggy much of the time during the wet season (November-February).

CURRENCY: $1= S$2.35 (Samoan Tala) ACCOMMODATION: Beachside fale accommodation is plentiful throughout Samoa, with a night, including breakfast and dinner, generally costing around S$60-S$80 per night.

GETTING AROUND: There is a bus service, but the likelihood of getting stranded in a village if it doesn’t fill up for the return leg is high. So hiring a car or joining a tour is your best bet if in a rush.

THE LINGO: While not the first language, English is widely spoken.

The basics to start with are malo (hello) and tofa (goodbye).

SEE: samoa.travel

TIME TRAVEL It’s fair to say that, keen rugby fans aside, most people know almost nothing about the 10 islands that comprise Samoa. For years now, Fiji, with its desert island beaches and cheap prices, has been the go-to destination for travellers looking for an idyllic, budget-friendly South Pacific getaway. But times they are a-changing, and the Samoans are going all out to attract backpackers to their fair shores.

Historically more aligned with the US, the powers that be have decided it’s time to make a seismic shift and buddy up with their culturally and geographically closer neighbours, Australia and New Zealand. It started a few years back when drivers woke up one day to suddenly discover they had to drive on the left,

rather than right, hand side of the road. The next major step happened on New Year’s Eve, sadly after our visit, when Samoa redrew the international date line, placing themselves on the Aussie, rather than American, side.

The impact of this for people wanting a short break is huge, as Samoa is no longer a massively disorientating 21 hours behind Sydney, but now a much simpler three hours ahead.

FAMILY TREES

And so, travelling pre-date line change (meaning we have no idea what day it is), we start our Samoan adventure on the main island of Upolu, which is home to the capital Apia, more an amalgamation of sprawling villages than a bustling metropolis, before jumping on the ferry to its bigger, but quieter neighbour Savai’i. With our trusty guide Anthony at the wheel, we set out across the rainforest-clad isle as beaches sparkle on one side and volcanic peaks rise in the distance on the other.

Regularly passing through villages every few minutes, where locals lounge in the shade of the traditional totally open buildings, or fales, we seemingly meet every car we pass with a friendly hoot.

“It’s a small place,” explains Anthony with a shrug. “Family is everywhere,” he adds, citing an old Samoan saying that people have more roots than a tree, meaning that everyone knows everyone. It’s great because you always feel welcome, but less so if you’ve got your eye on a girl, he quips with a cheeky twinkle in his eye.

Over the next few days we spend our time exploring the island, which is the fourth largest in Polynesia, after New Zealand and Hawaii. On one trip we stop off at the Alofaaga Blowholes where, on a good day, the water powers through the lava tubes, bursting more than 10 metres into the air. And like everything in Samoa, they come with a good story, with the blowholes TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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symbolising an old Tongan princess who died in Samoa, when the country was a Tongan colony. Now, whenever the blowholes blow, it is said to be a sign of her king sending his love.

WHOLE LOTTA LAVA Next we set about exploring Savai’i’s volcanic sights, which are as plentiful as they are bizarre. From scrambling over the post-apocalyptic scenes of the Saleaula Lava Field, complete with a roofless church half-filled with the wave-like black rock, we head to the Tafua Crater, where we scale the second highest of the island’s 450 volcanic cones, catching our breath at the top as we gaze with awe into the 55m-deep crater while keeping our eyes peeled for the metre-wide Tongan and Samoan fruit bats that spend their days soaring through the hot air currents.

It’s then from one extreme to another as we switch our lofty views over the land for the underground tunnels of the Paia Dwarfs Cave. Found on the northern part of the island, in the village of Paia, this 1km lava tube cave is still said to be home to dwarves, with their footprints supposedly still visible. The legend goes that they’d lived there for all time in secrecy, until one day a local villager chanced across them. He was sworn to secrecy in return for fresh food every day, until the time came when, confused by all the free food, the villager’s wife demanded to know where it was coming from and he spilled the beans. The food parcels stopped immediately, the moral of the story apparently being that some secrets should be kept from your wife!

Samoa being Samoa, however, these underground caverns quickly take on a highly adventurous nature – there’s no safety ropes or helmets here. Scrambling down through the jagged rocks, slipping in our flip flops while desperately trying to keep up with our guide, who is armed with the only torch in the group, we’re soon deep underground.

The tunnels stretch onwards, linked by separate caverns that you have to swim through, and the sense of danger is never far away. The dwarves might not have been far off either, but sadly we had to make do with mere footprints.

Yet while our days are filled with climbing volcanoes, clambering through flooded tunnels or simply soaking up the rays on one of the many beaches, each night it is back to our fales. Indeed, as Anthony, a man born and bred on Savai’i explains, in comparison to the more developed (but still extremely laidback) Upolu, the chilled-out Savai’i is the “better island”, as it’s a place “you can escape the world, where it’s just the small world of your fale”. The standard cheap accommodation found across Samoa, fales are little beachside huts, with palm blinds for windows, meaning the natural air con from the elements tends to keep the mosquitoes out. A night in one, including breakfast and dinner, often costs just S$65. However, if we thought Savai’i was chilled out, we were in for a treat as the next day we jumped aboard a little motorboat for the 20 minute ride over to the tiny isle of Manono for the day.

SOME LIKE IT HOT Home to just four villages and 1,000 people, we did a lap of the island in just a couple of hours on foot, stopping now and then for locals to give us a quick demonstration on climbing up coconut trees or basket weaving. It was then into the sublimely refreshing water to snorkel on the forestlike reef that lies just off the shore, before jumping back on 36

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Clockwise from top left: descending to the To Sua Ocean Trench; climbing a coconut tree; a typical Samoan bus

board our boat, still dripping, to head back to our fale as the sun melted into the ocean.

Before stepping back on our plane to reality, however, we just had to time for a whistle-stop tour of Upolu as well, taking in the museum dedicated to the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, who spent his final days in Samoa and became a national hero in the process thanks to his support of the tribal leaders against the then German colonial overlords.

And, after topping up the tans on a number of the heavenly beaches that dot the southern coast, we couldn’t resist a stop at the To Sua Ocean Trench, spectacular photos of which adorn Samoa’s marketing posters the world over. Basically a big hole dropping dramatically through the centre of colourful gardens, the trench is filled with enough sparkling turquoise sea water, accessed by a wooden ladder, to make it just about the most idyllic swimming spot imaginable.

Our Samoan time up, our transformation from arriving, wary and weary travellers could not have been more complete. Safe, secure and cheap, while overflowing with beautiful islands, strong culture and a friendly people, it’s hard to imagine a more welcoming or laidback land than Samoa.

It’s a place where even the police knock off at 5pm, where the buses stay put for the night if they’re Peru: Discovering not filled up and, best of the ancient world all, where insuring visitors of Machu Picchu leave happy is an integral part of the culture. ❚

NEXT WEEK

Five hours across the glistening Pacific lies Samoa.

Touch down and you’ll discover you’ve stepped back in time, in a good way. Sure Samoa has all the mod cons you’d expect today. But it also has something completely unique. A way of life called Fa’a Samoa – the Samoan way.

It’s a 3,000 year tradition based on respect for family, elders, village, church and environment. It also means we welcome visitors with a genuine warmth and friendliness.

With accommodation to suit every budget, try an open air beach fale located right on the white sandy beaches along the stunning coastline. Why sleep five stars when you can sleep under a billion?

Samoa was voted Best Value Destination in the South Pacific by Expedia, so wake up and smell the tropics with great value accommodation available on line at www.samoadirect.com.au Fa’a Samoa. The Samoan way.

Find out more on www.samoa.travel

www.samoa.travel

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With our local 24/7 reservations centre on:1800 600 503 Or book online with real-time quotes and confirmations at:

backpackercampervans.com.au

*Van price based on Breezer Campervan, 3+ day rate, for travel 23/4/2012 – 29/04/2012. Car price based on Economy Car, 1-6 day city rate for travel April 2012. Prices correct at time of print, rates change weekly so contact our Reservations team for the best daily rate. Minimum hire applies, offer subject to availability and liability reduction cover is additional. For full terms and conditions contact Backpacker Rentals.

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NTLISTINGS

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DARWIN STAY

KATHERINE STAY

Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au

BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road.

1800 501 984, big4.com.au

DON’T MISS!

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Giles St. 1800 626 722

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385, yha.com.au Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au

KATHERINE DO Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights.

08 8972 2345 airbornesolutions.com.au

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743 nitmiluktours.com.au

MINDIL BEACH SUNSET MARKET

Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com

Mindil Beach. Thur, 26 Apr. It’s not long now until Darwin’s iconic markets reopen for business.

They’ll be on every Thursday and Sunday night until late October.

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au

DARWIN DO Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522, crocosauruscove.com Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront.

08 8981 0700, deckchaircinema.com.au

Mindil Beach, Darwin Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, nt.gov.au Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point.

08 8999 8264, magnt.nt.gov.au

mindil.com.au Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf.

1300 135 595, ozjetboating.com.au Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River.

08 8978 9077, jumpingcrocodile.com.au Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct. waterfront.nt.gov.au

TENNANT CREEK Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719, touristrest.com.au

ALICE SPRINGS Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, alicelodge.com.au Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. 08 8952 8855, yha.com.au Annie’s Place 4 Traeger Ave. 1800 359 089, anniesplace.com.au

@tnt_downunder Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive.

1800 794 663, alicehaven.com.au Toddy’s Resort 41 Gap Rd. 1800 027 027, toddys.com.au

ALICE DO Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive.

08 8951 8788, alicespringsdesertpark.com.au Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards.

9 Stuart Terrace.

08 8952 8900, reptilecentre.com.au Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides.

1800 809 790, outbackballooning.com.au Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room.

Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129, flyingdoctor.net School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum.

80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, assoa.nt.edu.au The Rock Tour Uluru tours.

78 Todd St. 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au

WORD FROM THE STREET

Alix Klaus, Switzerland HI ALIX. BEEN MANY PLACES IN THE NT? “Just to the red centre.”

ANYTHING STRANGE HAPPEN? “We were doing an 18km walk at Kata Tjuta when it started raining really, really hard. Waterfalls were everywhere and soon it was flooding. The last 6km was like wading through a river!”

SEE ANY CREATURES? “At Uluru we saw a snake about a metre away and were taking photos of it when suddenly a guide came up with a group and was like, ‘woah, that’s a king brown snake, one of the most dangerous in the world’.”

WHERE DID YOU LIKE BEST? “Uluru is good but Kata Tjuta is better for walking. It’s an amazing place.”

MOST USEFUL THING YOU TOOK? “An ice box for fresh beers.”

40

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BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com

Gallery of Modern Art 07 3840 7303, qag.qld.gov.au

BOOK NOW!

Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point.

07 3891 5766, riverlife.com.au

Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace.

07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, stayatbase.com Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433, stayatbase.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au Brisbane City Apartments 1800 110 443, brisbanecityapartments.com Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St, 07 3236 1947, yha.com.au Chill Backpackers 328 Upper Roma St. 1800 851 875, chillbackpackers.com Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, bunkbrisbane.com.au

The Tivoli. Sun, 12 Aug. From $69.50.

On a tour rescheduled from May, the throwback RnB powerhouse will be taking to the stage with Bell Biv Devoe.

Old Pacific Hwy, Gosford

ticketek.com.au

BRISBANE DO

The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm.

04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646, tinbilly.com

Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000, australiazoo.com.au Lone Pine Koala Santuary 708 Jesmond Rd, Fig Tree Pocket.

07 3378 1366, koala.net

Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300, goldcoastbackpackers.com.au

Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point.

1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb.com.au

Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise.

1800 074 393, islander.com.au

XXXX Ale House Brewery tours.

Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton.

07 3361 7597, xxxxalehouse.com.au

Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise.

1800 817 832, sleepinginn.com.au

GOLD COAST

Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers.com.au

Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise.

1800 22 99 55, aquariusbackpackers.com.au

GINUWINE

Coolangatta Sands Hostel Cnr Griffiths & McLean Sts, Coolangatta. 07 5536 7472, coolangattasandshostel.com.au

Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise.

1800 268 621, backpackersinparadise.com.au

Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise.

07 5571 1776, yha.com.au

Cheers International Backpackers 8 Pine Av, Surfers Paradise.

1800 636 539, cheersbackpackers.com.au

Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 1800 100 004, trekkersbackpackers.com.au

Coolangatta Kirra Beach YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga.

07 5536 76442, yha.com.au

7/2+%23 7!.4%$

Surf â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Sun Beachside Backpackers 3323 Surfers Paradise Blvd, Surfers Paradise.

1800 678 194, surfnsun-goldcoast.com

GC DO Dreamworld Theme park. dreamworld.com.au

WHALE WATCHING

&RUIT AND 6EGETABLE PICKING JOBS AVAILABLE

s 4RANSPORT TO FROM WORK s &2%% COURTESY BUS PICK UP s ,AUNDRY FACILITIES s )NTERNET FACILITIES s 0LEASANT AND FRIENDLY STAFF s "ISTRO AVAILABLE AT "ANJO S TAVERN NEXT DOOR

MORETON BAY Each year, Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entire whale population embarks on its annual pilgrimage to and from the Antarctic, and they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind an audience. July to November is whale-watching time, and you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to go further north than Brisbane to catch these gentle giants breach, slap their tails and play around. Seeing whales up close and personal gives you a feeling of wellbeing and a sense of awe. Buses and trains run from Brisbane. Moreton Bay is only a 30-minute drive east of the CBD. Just follow the signs.

6!2)%49 /& 7/2+ !6!),!",% 9%!2 2/5.$

"REEZY 4ROPICAL VERANDAHS CLEAN FRIENDLY #LOSE TO SHOPS BANKS OLYMPIC POOL

&EDERAL "ACKPACKERS "OURBONG 3T "UNDABERG 1LD

0HONE WWW FEDERALBACKPACKERS COM AU FEDERALBACKPACKERS HOTMAIL COM

WORKERS WANTED FOR FARM IN INNISFAIL. Free accommodation and food provided. Offers very good working and living conditions.

PHONE 0437 692 002

#OMPLIES WITH ALL SAFETY REQUIREMENTS QUANTITY DEPENDS ON SEASON

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Get Wet Surf School 07 5532 9907 Seaworld seaworld.com.au Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World wetnwild.myfun.com.au Warener Bros Movie World movieworld.com.au Zorb 07 5547 6300

SUNSHINE CST Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba.

1800 020 120 mooloolababackpackers.com Nomads Noosa 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads.

1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567, halselodge.com.au

RAINBOW BEACH Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111 126, dingosresort.com Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, pippiesbeachhouse.com Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358, skydiverainbowbeach.com

HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Road. 07 4124 0677 woolshedbackpackers.com Colonial Village YHA 820 Boat Harbour Drive.

07 4125 1844, yha.com.au

Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours. 07 4131 2999 bundabergrum.com.au

TOWN OF 1770

Fraser Roving 412 The Esplanade. 1800 989 811, fraserroving.com.au

1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr.1800 121 770, the1770backpackers.com

Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989, nextbackpackers.com.au

1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889, 1770underseaadventures.com

Nomads Hervey Bay 408 The Esplanade.

1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168, palaceadventures.com.au

FRASER ISLAND Eurong Beach Resort 07 4120 1600, eurong.com.au Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 palaceadventures.com.au

BUNDABERG Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 federalbackpackers.com.au

AIRLIE BEACH airliebeach.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119 Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 247 251, yha.com.au Airlie Waterfront Backpackers 6 The Esplanade. 1800 089 000, airliewaterfront.com Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994, backpackersbythebay.com Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com

Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634 magnums.com.au Nomads Airlie Beach 354 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 666 237 nomadshostels.com

BOWEN Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433 bowenbackpackers.net

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522, adventurersresort.com Adrenalin Dive Yongala diving. 07 4724 0600, adrenalindive.com.au Yongala Dive Yongala diving.

07 4783 1519, yongaladive.com.au

MAGNETIC ISL

Magnums 7 Marine Pde, Arcadia Bay. 1800 663 666, magnetic-island.com/arc-rsrt.htm Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

MISSION BEACH Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road. 07 4068 8317, absolutebackpackers.com.au Scotty’s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, scottysbeachhouse.com.au

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bohemiacentral.com.au Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353, bohemiaresort.com.au Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au Dreamtime Travellers Rest 189 Bunda St. 1800 058 440, dreamtimehostel.com

Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd. 1800 24 22 73, stayatbase.com

Gilligans Backpackers and Hotel Resort 57-89 Grafton St. 1800 556 995, gilligans.com.au

Bungalow Bay Backpackers Horseshoe Bay. 1800 285 577, bungalowbay.com.au

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com

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Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours. 07 4131 2999 bundabergrum.com.au

IF YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE LOOKING FOR SUMMER FUN THERE IS NO PLACE BETTER THAN THE BRISSIE SUN!

TOWN OF 1770

Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353, bohemiaresort.com.au

1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889, 1770underseaadventures.com

Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au

airliebeach.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119 Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 247 251, yha.com.au Airlie Waterfront Backpackers 6 The Esplanade. 1800 089 000, airliewaterfront.com Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994, backpackersbythebay.com Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634 magnums.com.au

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Nomads Airlie Beach 354 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 666 237 nomadshostels.com

BOWEN Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433 bowenbackpackers.net

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522, adventurersresort.com Adrenalin Dive Yongala diving. 07 4724 0600, adrenalindive.com.au Yongala Dive Yongala diving.

07 4783 1519, yongaladive.com.au

MAGNETIC ISL Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd. 1800 24 22 73, stayatbase.com

7Zhi 6XXdbbdYVi^dc 7Zhi EVgin C^\]i

Bungalow Bay Backpackers Horseshoe Bay. 1800 285 577, bungalowbay.com.au Magnums 7 Marine Pde, Arcadia Bay. 1800 663 666, magnetic-island.com/arc-rsrt.htm Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

*,, =[eh][ Ijh[[j" 8h_iXWd[ effei_j[ j^[ JhWdi_j 9[djh[

44

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bohemiacentral.com.au

1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr.1800 121 770, the1770backpackers.com

AIRLIE BEACH

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Scottyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, scottysbeachhouse.com.au

MISSION BEACH Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road. 07 4068 8317, absolutebackpackers.com.au

Dreamtime Travellers Rest 189 Bunda St. 1800 058 440, dreamtimehostel.com Gilligans Backpackers and Hotel Resort 57-89 Grafton St. 1800 556 995, gilligans.com.au JJâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com NJOY Travellers Resort Harbour 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055, njoy.net.au Nomads Beach House 239 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228, nomadshostels.com Nomads Cairns 341 Lake St. 1800 737 736, nomadshostels.com Nomads Esplanade 93 The Esplanade.

1800 175 716, nomadshostels.com Northern Greenhouse 117 Grafton St. 1800 000 541, northerngreenhouse.com.au

CAIRNS DO AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon swinging.

1800 622 888 cairns.ajhackett.com Cairns Dive Centre 1800 642 591, cairnsdive.com.au Pro Dive 07 4031 5255, prodivecairns.com Raging Thunder Adventures Whitewater rafting.

07 4030 7990, ragingthunder.com.au Skydive Cairns 07 4052 1822, skydivecairns.com.au Skydive Cairns 07 4030 7990, ragingthunder.com.au Skyrail Rainforest Cableway 07 4038 1555, skyrail.com.au

CAPE TRIB Crocodylus Village Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Rd, Cow Bay. 07 4098 9166, crocodyluscapetrib.com PKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333, pksjunglevillage.com.au

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MELBOURNE STAY

Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au

All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, allnations.com.au

BOOK NOW!

The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, hotelspencer.com Urban Central 334 City Rd, Southbank. 1800 631 288, urbancentral.com.au

Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com

MELBOURNE DO

Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond.

03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net

Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square.

03 8663 2200, acmi.net.au

Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697, exfordhotel.com.au

Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999, melbourneaquarium.com.au

Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au

DAVE GORMAN Forum Theatre. Tue, 10 Apr â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sun, 22 Apr. From $29.50.

The author, stand-up and all-round legend is heading to the Melbourne International Comedy Festival, where heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bound to be a highlight.

The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane.

1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com.au Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade.

03 9663 4212, homemansion.com.au

Flinders St, Melbourne Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda.

1800 008 718, hometravellersmotel.com.au Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200, hotelbakpak.com

ticketmaster.com.au Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523, yha.com.au Nomads Melbourne 198 Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;beckett St. 1800 447 762, nomadshostels.com

Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888 mcg.org.au Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02 melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square. ngv.vic.gov.au Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228, oldmelbournegaol.com.au

Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. 03 9629 5866, neighbourstour.com.au

MELB MUSIC Cherry Bar myspace.com/cherrybarmelbourne Corner Hotel cornerhotel.com East Brunswick Club eastbrunswickclub.com Esplanade Hotel espy.com.au Northcote Social Club northcotesocialclub.com Palace Theatre palace.com.au The Hi-Fi thehifi.com.au The Tote thetotehotel.com

GREAT OCEAN RD Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea.

03 5263 2664, angleseabackpackers.com.au Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St. 03 5237 7899, yha.com.au Great Ocean Road Backpackers YHA 10 Erskine Av, Lorne.

03 5289 2508, yha.com.au

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45

VICLISTINGS DON’T MISS!

follow us on Sorrento YHA 3 Miranda St, Sorrento.

03 5984 4323, yha.com.au Tortoise Head Lodge French Island.

03 5980 1234, tortoisehead.net

@tnt_downunder

BOOK NOW!

DANDENONG Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

MURRAY RIVER Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca.

03 5480 6522, yha.com.au

CARLTON VS COLLINGWOOD The MCG. Fri, 13 Apr. $35.

These two historic heavyweights of the AFL world will be hoping there luck is in come Friday 13th, as they meet at the cathedral of sport.

Brunton Ave, Melbourne

Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell.

03 5598 6305, portcampbellhostel.com.au Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263, surfsidebackpacker.com

ticketek.com.au

MORNINGTON

Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura.

03 5022 7922, milduracitybackpackers.com.au Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura.

04 0734 4251, milduraoasisbackpackers.com.au

GIPPSLAND

NICKI MINAJ Hisense Arena. Fri, 18 May. $100.

Currently one of the hottest artists on the planet, the controversial rapper’s two gig tour sold out in no time, so head to Gumtree etc.

Olympic Blvd, Melbourne

PHILLIP ISLAND

Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie.

03 5988 0188, bayplay.com.au

Prom Country Backpackers 03 5682 2614

Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes.

03 5952 3620, yha.com.au

Sorrento Foreshore Reserve Nepean Hwy, Sorrento.

1800 850 600, mornpen.vic.gov.au

Rawsom Caravan Park Depot Rd, Rawson.

03 5165 3439, rawsoncaravanpark.com.au

The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road. 03 5956 6123 theislandaccommodation.com.au

WORD FROM THE STREET

ticketmaster.com.au

GRAMPIANS Grampians YHA Eco Hostel Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4543, yha.com.au Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288, timsplace.com.au

GOING FOR GOLD

Manuela Siller, Italy HEY MANUELA. SEEN MUCH OF VIC? “First I did the Great Ocean Road, because I’d heard about the 12 Apostles before. Then I went back to Melbourne to do some national parks, like the Grampians, Little Desert, Pink Lakes, and down to Wilsons Promontory and the Snowy Mountains.”

WHERE ARE YOU STAYING? “I’m staying in an old van, sleeping in the back. It’s quite comfortable when you’re used to it.”

GOT A FAVE DAY SPOT? “Wilsons Promontory with the wombats.

It’s the most beautiful national park I’ve seen, especially during sunset on Whiskey Beach.”

HOW ABOUT AFTER DARK? “Melbourne Tower. It’s great to go there in the afternoon and wait until the sun goes down. Then you’ll realise why it’s a favourite.”

46

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

BALLARAT Ballarat gets its fame from being a boom town of the Aussie gold rush during the 1850s. Because of its past success as an area where you could easily find gold, there’s still the opportunity here to pan for a nugget or two. The best place to do so is at the open-air period museum Sovereign Hill.

The attraction is located at the site of where the second-largest gold nugget in the world was found, weighing 69kg. You never know your luck!You’ll find it about a 90-minute drive north-west of Melbourne, or eight hours south-east of Adelaide.

WALISTINGS

follow us on One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge.

1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au

BOOK NOW!

@tnt_downunder

DON’T MISS!

Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333, yha.com.au The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge.

08 9228 3755, undergroundbackpackers.com.au The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, witchshat.com

DEEP SEA ARCADE Amplifier Bar. Sat, 16 Jun. $15.30.

The celebrated Sydney five-piece are hitting the road on a national tour to promote their critically-acclaimed debut album Outlands.

393 Murray St, Perth

PERTH STAY Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, billabongresort.com.au Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge.

08 9227 6000, perthbrittania.com

48

oztix.com.au Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au

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PERTH DO Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys.

08 9447 7500, aqwa.com.au Kings Park & Botanic Garden bgpa.wa.gov.au Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223, perthmint.com.au Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth.

08 9474 3551, perthzoo.wa.gov.au

LADY GAGA Burswood Dome. Sat, 7 Jul & Sun, 8 Jul. From $83.

Yes little monsters, your leader is coming. The current queen of pop ends her Aussie tour out west. Get in quick if you’re after a ticket.

Great Eastern Hwy, Burrswood

PERTH MUSIC Amplifier amplifiercapitol.com.au Astor liveattheastor.com.au Mojo’s Bar mojosbar.com.au The Bakery nowbaking.com.au The Rosemount Hotel rosemounthotel.com.au

ticketek.com.au

FREO STAY Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065, backpackersinnfreo.com.au Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, fremantleprison.com.au

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Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080, sundancerbackpackers.com.au

FREO DO Fremantle Markets 08 9335 2515, fremantlemarkets.com.au Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace.

08 9336 9200, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

ROTTNEST ISL Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. 08 9372 9780, yha.com.au

MONKEY MIA Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort 1800 653 611, monkeymia.com.au

NINGALOO REEF Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101, aspenparks.com.au Ningaloo Club Coral Bay 08 9948 5100, ningalooclub.com Excape Backpackers YHA Murat Rd, Exmouth.

08 9949 1200, yha.com.au

MARGARET RIV Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. 08 9757 9532, yha.com.au

ALBANY Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St. 08 9842 3388, yha.com.au

BROOME STAY Cable Beach Backpackers 12 Sanctuary Road.

1800 655 011, cablebeachbackpackers.com Kimberley Club 62 Fredrick St 08 9192 3233, kimberleyklub.com

Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd. 08 9842 9599, cruizeinn.com Metro Inn Albany 270 Albany Hwy. 1800 004 321, metrohotels.com.au

BROOME DO Sun Pictures Carnarvon St. 08 9192 1077, broomemovies.com.au

WEST COAST HIGHLIGHT

KALBARRI NATIONAL PARK If you’re fond of a spot of bushwalking, but don’t want to rule out a quick escape to the beach, then Kalbarri is the place for you. This rugged coastal park covers a massive 1,000 sq km and is packed with both wildlife and wild flowers. It’s centred around a dramatic gorge through which the Murchison River winds, presenting plenty of opportunities for spectacular lookouts, such as Nature’s Window (pictured). There’s even the chance to feed some pelicans. Just make sure you avoid the school holidays. You’ll find it about 600km north of Perth.

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49

TASLISTINGS HOBART STAY

launcestoncataractgorge.com.au

Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507, centralbackpackers.com.au

Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300, boags.com.au

DON’T MISS!

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777, qvmag.tas.gov.au

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660, yha.com.au

DEVONPORT

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com

Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335, tasmanbackpackers.com.au

Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com

LANIE LANE

Overland Track Six-day walk parks.tas.gov.au

Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 cascadebreweryco.com.au

142 Liverpool St, Hobart

PORT ARTHUR Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101, portarthur.org.au

Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. salamanca.com.au

LAUNCESTON Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135, arthousehostel.com.au

Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, bichenobackpackers.com

moshtix.com.au Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, launcestonbackpackers.com.au Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906, backpackersaccommodation.com.au

DIVING DELIGHT

Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000, wineglassbay.com

STRAHAN, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St. 03 6471 7255, yha.com

Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333, bichenopenguintours.com.au

CRADLE MTN Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574, discoveryholidayparks.com.au

LAUNCESTON DO Cataract Gorge

FREYCINET Iluka Backpackers YHA Reserve Rd. 03 6257 0115, yha.com.au

BICHENO

The Grand Poobah. Sat, 19 May. $23.50.

The up-and-coming (and supercool) Aussie rockabilly songstress is on the road with her Bangity Bang national tour. Don’t miss her.

HOBART DO

Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St. tmag.com.au

CRADLE DO Devils at Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. devilsatcradle.com

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100, tasmaniazoo.com.au

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com

Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880 mtwellingtondescent.com.au

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Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

STRAHAN DO Four Wheelers Henty Sand Dunes quadbike tours. 04 1950 8175, 4wheelers.com.au Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142, franklinrivertasmania.com Wild Rivers Jet Jet boating. 03 6471 7396, wildriversjet.com.au

WORD FROM THE STREET

Alex Vivas, England

KING ISLAND Escape the mainland crowds and explore some of Australia’s quietest, cheapest and most rewarding dive sites. The Tassie waters maybe chillier, but that just means there’s different stuff to see, like towering kelp forests (pictured), sea dragons and plenty of seals. Great diving spots litter Tassie’s east coast, Flinders Island and Rocky Cape in the north. But to really get off the beaten track then head to former sealer station King Island, bang in the middle of Bass Strait.

Over 60 shipwrecks fill the surrounding waters. Get there by flying from Melbourne or a number of Tassie towns.

50

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HEY ALEX. BEEN MANY PLACES IN TASSIE? “All over really.

Love it here so much I’ve been twice.”

WHAT’S YOUR PICK OF THE BUNCH? “I loved the Overland Track in general; really spectacular and I saw a platypus in the wild.

Wineglass Bay is an obvious bone, but possibly the prettiest beach in Australia (you can camp in the bush right next to it, loved that).

Bay of Fires, Stanley’s Nut, Strahan, The far south too, including Bruny Island, is hardly visited but very beautiful. I’ve promised myself I’m going to live down here one day.”

HOW ABOUT AFTER DARK ENTERTAINMENT? “It’s got to be Hobart really. There are some cosy welcoming watering holes down near the harbour.”

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ADELAIDE STAY

COOBER PEDY

Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, adpi.com.au

BOOK NOW!

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010, yha.com.au

Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com

Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw.

08 8553 1344, yha.com.au

INXS Old Mill. Wed, 6 Jun. $65.95.

Sure they might not have Michael Hutchence nowadays, but the once world-beating Aussie rockers are kicking off a new east coast tour here.

98 Main St, Hahndorf

My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au

Memorial Drive.

08 8300 3800, cricketsa.com.au

Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au

Adelaide Zoo Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, zoossa.com.au

ADELAIDE DO Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection. War

Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience Sea lion and dolphin swims.

08 8626 5017, bairdbay.com

KANGAROO IS

Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au

Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au

EYRE PENINSULA Coodlie Park Farmstay Flinders Highway, Port Kenny.

08 8687 0411, coodliepark.com

Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614, camp-underground.com.au

Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, anniesplace.com.au

Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours. 153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside. 1800 819 757, haighschocolates.com.au

ticketmaster.com.au

Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg.

04 1281 1838, dolphinboat.com.au

BAROSSA VAL Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road Tanunda.

08 8563 0198, barossabackpackers.com.au

FLEURIEU PENIN Port Elliot Beach House YHA 13 The Strand, Port Elliot. 08 8554 2785, yha.com.au

Radeka Down Under 1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891, radekadownunder.com.au

Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au

Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au

Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, opalcavecooberpedy.com.au

RIVERLAND

Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving.

08 8682 3939, sharkcagediving.com.au Nullarbor Traveller Tours across to Perth.

1800 816 858, the-traveller.com.au Port Lincoln Tourist Park 11 Hindmarsh St. 08 8621 4444, portlincolntouristpark.com.au

Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri.

08 8582 3144, berribackpackers.com.au

Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions Great white shark cage diving.

08 8363 1788, rodneyfox.com.au

Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton.08 8584 5646, harvesttrail.com.au

FLINDERS RANGES

Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray.

1800 665 166, nomadsworld.com

Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842, angorichinavillage.com.au

Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004, wilpenapound.com.au

ANCIENT WONDER

FLINDERS RANGES Smug European travellers often complain that there’s nothing old in Australia. Well, these mountains have been around for about 540 million years, which it’s fair to say is quite a while.

Characterised by their glowing red peaks, the ranges stretch for over 430km. Their undisputed posterboy is the dramatic natural basin of Wilpena Pound (pictured), without a doubt one of South Australia’s highlights. Enjoy some spectacular views while hiking, hot air ballooning, tearing around in a 4WD or simply chilling out on the Pichi Richi scenic railway. Buses and tours leave from Port Augusta, north of Adelaide.

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NZLISTINGS N ZL TIV NE GS LLING RISA T ON TO FIJI?

FIJILISTINGS follow us on

NADI & WEST Aquarius Pacific Hotel +679 672 6000 Beach Escape Villas +679 672 4442, beachscape@ connect.com.fj Cathay Hotel +679 666 0566, fiji4less.com Horizon Backpackers +679 672 2832, horizonbeachfiji.com

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“real Fiji”

Smugglers Cove +679 672 6578, smugglers beachfiji.com Travellers Beach Resort +679 672 3322, beachvilla@connect.com.fj

ISLAND HOPPING PASSES Complete freedom to explore the Yasawa Islands, including Beachcomber.

Choose from a 5, 7, 10, 12, 15 or 21 day pass.

Passes from $217

YASAWA ISLANDS Awesome Adventures Fiji +679 675 0499, awesomefiji.com Coconut Bay Resort +679 666 6644 coconutbay_fiji2002@yahoo.com

EASY FLEXIBLE PACKAGES

Korovou Eco Tour Resort +679 666 6644 korovoultk@connect.com.fj

Explore the real Fiji. From 5 to 11 nights.

Includes vessel transfers, accommodation, meals and activities. Packages from $586

Kuata Resort +679 666 6644 Long Beach Backpackers Resort +679 666 6644

ISLAND ESCAPES

Manta Ray Island +679 672 6351 mantarayisland@connect.com.fj

A bit like survivor but a lot more fun! Strand yourself on one island for 2, 4 or 6 nights. If you can stand nd the pain of coral lagoons and coconut palms then stay longer. Packages from $224

Nabua Lodge +679 666 9173 nabualodge@connect.com.fj Oarsmans Bay Lodge +679 672 2921, nacula@hotmail.com Octopus Resort +679 666 6337 reservations@octopusresort.com

GREAT PAIRS 5 days 4 nights 2 islands Straight out of your tropical Island Fantasy.

Two island stays have always been extremely popular so we ve made it really easy for you with a matching of islands that we think make a great pair. Packages from $421 Daily departures for all packages and passes from Denarau Marina

info@awesomefiji.com

www.awesomefiji.com

Prices are ex Denarau, Fiji, in Australian dollars and valid for travel to 31 March 2013.

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Mango Bay Resort +679 653 00690, mangobayresortfiji.com Pacific Safaris Club +679 345 0498, safariclub@connect.com.fj Rendezvous Dive Resort +679 628 4427, surfdivefiji.com Robinson Crusoe +679 629 1999, robinsoncrusoeislandfiji.com Seashell Cove Resort +679 670 6100, seashellresort.com Tabukula Beach Bungalows +679 650 0097, fiji4less.com The Uprising Beach Resort +679 345 2200, uprisingbeachresort.com Tsulu Luxury Backpackers & Apartments +679 345 0065, tsulu.com Vakaviti Motel & Dorm +679 650 0526, bulavakaviti@connect.com.fj Vilisite Place +679 650 1030

SUVA Colonial Lodge +679 92 75248, sailevukaga@yahoo.co.nz Lami Lodge Backpackers +679 336 2240, volau@connect.com.fj Leleuvia Island Resort +679 331 9567, eleen@leleuvia.com Raintree Lodge +679 332 0562, raintreelodge.com Royal Hotel +679 344 0024 royal@connect.com.fj South Seas Private Hotel +679 331 2296, fiji4less.com Tailevu Hotel +679 343 0028

NORTH VITI LEVU Bethams Cottage +679 669 4132, bethams.com.fj Macdonalds Beach Cottages +679 669 4633

Sunrise Lagoon Resort +679 666 6644

Morrison’s Beach Cottagess +679 669 4516, tipple@connect.com.fj

Wayalailai Island Resort +679 672 1377 wayalailai@connect.com.fj

Safari Lodge Fijis +679 669 3333 safarilodge.com.fj

White Sandy Beach Dive Resort +679 666 4066

Volivoli Beach Resort +679 669 4511, volivoli.com

MAMANUCA ISL Beachcomber Island Resort +679 666 1500, beachcomberfiji.com Bounty Island Resort +679 666 6999, fiji-bounty.com Rau Kini’s Hostel +679 672 1959, rtkinihostel@connect.com.fj

AAF3373 - Issue 674

For info and bookings see your travel centre or contact us: phone1800 007 129 or SKYPE awesomefiji

@tnt_downunder

The Funky Fish Beach Resort +679 628 2333, funkyfishresort.com The Resort Walu Beach +679 665 1777, walubeach.com

CORAL COAST Beachouse +679 653 0500, fijibeachouse.com

VANUA LEVU Bayside Backpacker Cottage +679 885 3154, tripntour@connect.com.fj Hidden Paradise Guest House +678 885 0106 Naveria Heights Lodge +679 851 0157, justnaveria@connect.com.fj Savusavu Hot Springs +679 885 0195, hotspringshotel@connect.com.fjj

TAVEUNI Albert’s Sunrise +679 333 7555 Matava Resort +679 330 5222, matava.com

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BUS TOURS Kiwi Experience +64 9366 9830 kiwiexperience.com Magic Travellers Network +64 9358 5600, magicbus.co.nz Nakedbus.com 0900 62533, nakedbus.com NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966, travelpass.co.nz Stray +64 9309 8772, straytravel.com

RENTAL FIRMS Ace Rental Cars 1800 140 026, acerentalcars.com.nz Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals +800 200 80 801, backpackercampervans.com Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122, bargainrentals.com.nz Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 447 363, exploremore.co.nz Econo Campers +64 9275 9919, econocampers.co.nz Escape Rentals 1800 456 272, escaperentals.co.nz Explore More 1800 800 327, dcrentals.com.nz Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736, jucy.com.nz

Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, rentadent.co.nz Rental Car Village +64 9376 9935, hire-vehicles.co.nz Spaceships 1300 139 091, spaceships.tv Standby Cars 1300 789 059, standbycars.com.au Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickedcampers.com

AUCKLAND Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. +64 9275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz Auckland International Backpackers (BBH) 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584, Base Auckland 229 Queen St. 0800 227 369, stayatbase.com Bamber House (BBH) 2 2 View Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9623 4267, hostelbackpacker.com

QUEENSTOWN

The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. +64 9307 0181, nomadshostels.com

Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com

Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. +64 9300 9999, nomadshostels.com

Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres. +64 4384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) St. +64 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9638 6545, oaklands.co.nz

Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414

Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. +64 9373 3471, enquiries@qsb.co.nz Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. +64 9363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. +64 9309 2802, yha.co.nz YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. +64 9302 8200, yha.co.nz

WELLINGTON Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. +64 4801 5666 stayatbase.com

Central City Backpackers 26 Lorne St. +64 9358 5685, backpacker.net.nz

Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. +64 4473 8482 db@downtownbackpackers.co.nz

City Garden Lodge 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell. +64 9302 0880

Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. +64 4385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz

YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. +64 4801 7280

CHRISTCHURCH Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. +64 3377 1897, chesterst.co.nz Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. +64 3366 9720, backpack.co.nz/foley Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546, stay@kiwibasecamp.com

Base Discovery Lodge St. +64 Queenstown 49 Shotover St. +64 3441 1185, stayatbase.com Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, bungibackpackers.co.nz Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. +64 3443 7341, cardrona.com Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. +64 3442 5494, flamingkiwi@xtra.co.nz Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. +64 3442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. +64 3441 3922, nomadshostels.com

Kiwi House 373 Gloucester St. +64 3381 6645, kiwihouse.co.nz

Pinewood Lodge (VIP) 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 7463 9663, rgrieg@xtra.co.nz

The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. +64 3381 5504, oldcountryhousenz.com

Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, southernlaughter.co.nz

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. +64 3366 6500, tranquil-lodge.co.nz

YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. +64 3442 7400, yha.co.nz

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. +64 3377 7931, rucksacker.com

YHA Queenstown Lakefront 8890 Lake Esplanade. +64 3442 8413, yha.co.nz

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Raising the bar Getting a job in a bar doesn’t mean giving up your life. It is a great way to keep the cash coming in while having a good time...

If you think that drinking is an expensive form of entertainment in Australia, then working in a bar could be win-win for you.

Sure, you’ll be forced to forgo all those pub crawls in the city with your mates, but more importantly, after you finish working, you’re entitled to what bartenders refer to as “staffies”. In English: free drinks. Most owners allow this, but it’s up to their discretion as to how generous they are with “free booze”.

Oh, and you’ll also get a fairly decent wage. Bar workers get around $20/hr with penalties (usually time-and-a-half) after midnight and Sundays if you’re a casual employee.

Tips vary from bar to bar and can be as little as none if you’re in a little pub or up to $200 per shift if you’re in a top-notch cocktail bar or nightclub.

If you’ve had no experience with bartending then it’s best to start at the quieter pubs where training will be

provided on the job. There are one-day bar courses you can attend, but the best way to learn is by diving in head first.

Before you walk into a pub with your CV, make sure you’ve got your Responsible Service of Alcohol Certificate (RSA). That’s a qualification most people will need before they can work with alcohol. It only takes a day to get and costs about $65-75. But beware, it often only applies to the state where you do the training. The best way to get a bar job is to walk in and speak to a manager.

Experience isn’t mandatory, it’s personality that will seal the deal. Trying to keep that personality up when you’re dealing with piss-heads is another story.

If you work in a clothing store, you’re expected to wear the clothes, and in bars, once you finish your shift, you’re expected to drink. And there’s nothing more satisfying than that first sip of alcohol after you’ve clocked off – it really feels like you’ve earned it.

INTERVIEW WITH A BARTENDER...

Kristin Ernstsen 26, Norway.

Works as a bartender in Sydney Why work in Oz? I wanted to do some travelling and needed a job to finance it. As you do.

So what is it you do?

I’m currently working in a bar in Sydney.

How did you get the job?

I walked into a few pubs and clubs and handed in my application where it seemed to be good to work.

I had experience so getting a job was easy.

What was your job back home?

I worked as a graphic designer.

How does it compare?

The pay in Norway is a lot better and the work conditions are often better as workers have more rights compared to Australia.

But Australia has the best weather and with that comes a much more relaxed lifestyle. And it’s cheaper to live here, so it evens out.

What’s the pay like?

It’s quite good for a job in hospitality. As long as you work in a bar that offers the minimum wage, and even has the decency to

add points for age and experience, you get paid okay as a bartender. You also get to choose as many hours as you want, so you pretty much decide your own pay.

Plus there’s the tip money, as long as you work in a bar with people who tip. You’ll find you’ll get more tips in a cocktail bar than in a backpacker’s pub.

What are the good points?

The best thing about working in a bar is the flexibility. In most bars and pubs you only commit to one week’s roster at a time, and you can choose when you want to work. You also get to meet a lot of cool people, and most people

working behind bars are fun people to work with.

Any bad points?

Late nights and drunks.

People spitting when they try to order their 50th drink.

Where in Australia have you been?

I’ve been to Melbourne, the Great Ocean Road, Perth, Darwin, Tasmania and almost everywhere between Surfers Paradise and Sydney on the east coast.

Any advice?

Only apply in bars that look like places you could survive working in. Don’t work in a pub where the customers have no teeth.

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MYTHBUSTERS SEE A MAN ABOUT A STING?

THIS WEEK’S QUIZ

MYTH

KINGS CROSS & DRINKING

OF THE

WEEK

Pissing on a jellyfish sting

a) 1970 c) 1980

The El Alamein fountain in Kings Q 6.Cross commemorates what?

b) 1974 d) 1984

Which Scottish region is known for Q 3.producing smoky tasting whisky? a) Islay c) Speyside

Cross’ most famous sex shop is?

Q 7.a) The Risqué

b) Highlands d) Aberdeen

Q 4. What was Kings Cross’ called until it was given its present name in1905, to avoid confusion with another street? a) Victoria Cross b) Kings Crossing c) Queens Cross d) Queens Way

SUDOKU PUZZLE 8

6

4 2

5

5

8 3

3

8

2 1 58

4

6

7

7

1

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TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

written to the tune of a drinking song? a) Russia b) Ireland c) USA d)Australia

4

ANAGRAM-ARAMA

AUSSIE-ISM

7

1 9

Q 8. Which country’s national anthem was

“STIR THE POSSUM”

4 4

b) Saucy c) Adults Only d) Dildo’s R Us

1

7

1

a) The gay community b) Kings Cross nightclub owners c) Australia’s bicentenary d) World War Two soldiers

To disturb a metaphorical sleeping dog, to revive a dormant issue, to provoke an argument. Often in a public place after several beverages, to “stir the possum” is a tactic liked by those known as “shit stirrers”.

THIS WEEK IT’S...

AUSSIE BEERS 1. WOE! HONESTY 2. MASSAGE JOB 3. LAX SEX ‘N’ EXACT MIX 4. SORE COP ANSWERS: 1. Tooheys New 2. James Boags 3. Castlemaine XXXX 4. Coopers

What year was the Coca Cola Q 2.billboard erected in Kings Cross?

Truth is, there are easier methods to ease a jellyfish sting. A test was conducted recently at Busselton Hospital, WA, to assess treatments.

Four were tested: vinegar, aluminium sulphate, ice and 45°C hot water. The most successful treatment was hot water, relieving 88 per cent of the pain. Alternatively, it is thought that vinegar works to neutralise the toxins on the skin. The reason why people think urine is the best method to use when treating stings can simply be that urine consists of warm water. For those who are concerned about jellyfish stings, perhaps take a bottle of vinegar with you to the beach instead.

ANSWERS: 1. a 2. b 3. a 4. c 5. b 6. d 7. a 8. c

Q

Q 5. The illegal trade of alcohol in the early century was referred to as what? a) Booze Trade b) Sly Grog c) Liquor Running d) Hushed Hooch

1. What is the name of the world’s strongest beer (55% vol)? a) The End of History b) The End of the Road c) One for the Road d) Dead Man Walking

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