TNT Australia 734 by TNT MAGAZINE

Nov 4 -17 2013 Issue 734 tntdownunder.com

WDIIVNES,

SKY AVEL IG L F HTS & TR RTESY U O VOUCHERS C VEL OF STA TRA

C I S U M E V I L | S Y A PRIZE GIVEAW S L A E D L E V A R T UP TO 40% OFF Australia has to offer h ut So at th l al e or pl we ex Plus, inside the mag,

Beach Palace Hotel, Beach Palace Hotel, Coogee, NSWNSW Coogee, Sunday 10, 10, Sunday November November 20132013 11am - 6pm 11am - 6pm tnttravelshow.com

tnttravelshow.com

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SYDNEY<>CAIRNS PACKAGES SYDNEY<>CAIRNS PACKAGES

Oz Experience’s range of packages are the perfect way to discover the best of what Australia has to offer. Packages bundle coach travel, tours, experiences and accommodation, making it even easier to plan your trip!

Oz Experience’s range of packages are the perfect way to discover the best of what Australia has to Packages offer flexibili to plan yourtours, own experiences trip, take asand little or as long asmaking you likeitfrom offer. Packages bundletycoach travel, accommodation, evenstart easiertotofinish plan up to 6 months. Our packages offer unlimi t ed stops, mul t iple daily departures and awesome activi t ies with your trip! some of the best youth partners in Australia! Packages offer flexibility to plan your own trip, take as little or as long as you like from start to finish up to 6 months. Our packages offer unlimited stops, mult iple daily departures and awesome activit ies with some of the best youth partners in Australia!

BRUCE COBBER BRUCE COBBER GOOD

INCLUSIONS:

• Hop-on hop-off travel between Sydney & Cairns • Byron Bay: Half day Surf lesson • Townsville: 1 night Magnetic Island Stopover • Cairns: Atherton Tablelands Day Tour INCLUSIONS: • Hop-on hop-off travel between Sydney & Cairns • Byron Bay: Half day Surf lesson • Townsville: 1 night Magnetic Island Stopover • Cairns: Atherton Tablelands Day Tour

BONZA

CRUISER

BONZA

CRUISER

BETTER

• Hop-on hop-off travel between Sydney & Cairns • Byron Bay: Half day Surf lesson • Rainbow Beach: 3 day, 2 night Fraser Island Tour • Townsville: 1 night Magnetic Island Stopover INCLUSIONS: • Hop-on hop-off travel between Sydney & Cairns Cairns: Atherton Tablelands Day Tour • • Byron Bay: Half day Surf lesson • Rainbow Beach: 3 day, 2 night Fraser Island Tour • Townsville: 1 night Magnetic Island Stopover • Cairns: Atherton Tablelands Day Tour

$859

OZ E XPE R IE N C E . C O M $859 Prices and inclusions are subject to change at anytime without notice. Untitled-2 1

$519 $519

BEST

BETTER

INCLUSIONS:

GOOD

INCLUSIONS:

BEST

• Hop-on hop-off travel between Sydney & Cairns • Byron Bay: Half day Surf lesson • Rainbow Beach: 3 day, 2 night Fraser Island Tour • Airlie Beach: 2 day, 1 night Whitsunday Sailing Adventure INCLUSIONS: • • Townsville: 1 night Magnetic Island Stopover Hop-on hop-off travel between Sydney & Cairns • Cairns: Atherton Tablelands Day Tour Byron Bay: Half day Surf lesson • Cairns: Great Barrier Reef Day Tour Rainbow Beach: 3 day, 2 night Fraser Island Tour • Airlie Beach: 2 day, 1 night Whitsunday Sailing Adventure • Townsville: 1 night Magnetic Island Stopover • Cairns: Atherton Tablelands Day Tour • Cairns: Great Barrier Reef Day Tour

$1299

1300 300 $1299 028 19/03/13 11:58 AM

ANDREW WESTBROOK ACTING EDITOR andrew.westbrook@tntmagazine.com

EDITOR’S LETTER Well, well, well folks. We’ve got one seriously crammed issue of TNT for you. For starters, we’ve been living and loving it up in South Australia, which might explain why we go a little mad for the state with a triple feature (p40). We’re also starting to get ever-so-excited about the Ashes, which we preview on p30. And, one other thing. Come say hello to us at the TNT Travel Show (p54)!

THIS ISSUE OZ DIARY

FOOD + DRINK

GIGS

PUBS

SPOTTED

CHATROOM

FILM 22 LIFESTYLE

NEWS 26 SPORT

OPINION 32 TRAVEL

WIN

TRAVEL SHOW

LISTINGS AUSTRALIA 68 LISTINGS NEW ZEALAND 86 WORK 88 TRIVIAL PURSUITS

FEATURES ON YOUR MARKS

Just arrived in the land Down Under? Here’s what you need to get sorted

ASHES TO ASHES

Yes, cricket’s greatest match-up is back on already. We’ve got the lowdown

BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

We kick off our South Australia month with three bumper features on the state

IT’S SHOWTIME! Head to the beach for deals, top tips and prizes at the TNT Travel Show

54 TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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@tnt_downunder

Cool people: they’ll be at the show

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Account manager Toby Llewellyn Marketing and events executive Georgina Pengelly MARKETING & EVENTS Business development manager Tom Wheeler DISTRIBUTION Lee Sutherland ACCOUNTS Suzanne Welsh

MAIN EVENT THE TNT TRAVEL SHOW 2013 BEACH PALACE HOTEL, COOGEE, SYDNEY

The Melbourne Cup? Pah! There’s one event that trumps all the others this week (even if we say so ourselves) – that’s our very own annual travel bonanza. Just head into Coogee institution the Beach Palace and, boom, you’ll be there! Once inside, you’ll be able to chat to travel experts about what’s best to do Down Under – you can then get it all booked up at special massively-discounted prices. That’s if you’ve not already snaffled a freebie from one of the many prize giveaways on the day. Top tip: combine the show with doing the Bondi to Coogee walk, checking out the Sculptures by the Sea as you go. That’s three top freebies in one day. Sunday, 10 November, 11am – 6pm

See our show guide, from p55, for all the info

tnttravelshow.com

SALES ENQUIRIES PHONE 02 8332 7511 EMAIL tom@tntdownunder.com WHERE TO GET TNT

SEE tntdownunder.com/magazine-location.html for pick-up points

CANBERRA INTL FILM FESTIVAL

FREE

With over 100 sculptures along the coast, ‘Sculpture by the Sea’ is Australia’s largest annual outdoor exhibition. It is a perfect opportunity to do the coastal walk, as the works are spread right across the cliffs from Bronte Beach to Bondi Beach.

The capital city of Australia will celebrate cinema with a 12-day programme showing movies from Oz and abroad. With 16,000 people attending and 58 films screened last year, it is one of the biggest film festivals worldwide.

In its 153rd year, the “race that stops a nation” will set off once again at Melbourne’s Flemington Race Course, as over 100,000 spectators cheer on the 24 jockeys chasing glory (and the $6.2m pot of gold). In Victoria it’s a public holiday but expect offices across Oz to be heading to the pub.

24 October– 10 November Sydney, New South Wales sculpturebythesea.com.au

30 October - 10 November Canberra, ACT canberrafilmfestival.com.au

Tues, 5 November. 3pm Flemington, Victoria melbournecup.com

TBA

FREE

Image: Thinkstock

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests. There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers. Registered by Australia Post.

MELBOURNE CUP

SCULPTURES BY THE SEA

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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HOT DEAL Brisbane or Cairns to Sydney from $1 per day. Some deals include a free fuel allowance!

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EATS + DRINKS

THE OAKS

@tnt_downunder

[Caption]

Restaurant review by Tash Levy

With the branches of a huge oak tree glittering with nightlights dangling above drinkers in the Garden Bar, it’s not difficult to guess how The Oaks got its name. Inside this iconic Sydney hotel, there’s the trendy Nineteenthirtysix bar, plus the Bar & Grill, where my friend and I are dining tonight. It’s got a minimalist, masculine decor, which rings true to its vintage roots – menus in hampers, rustic crates on the bar – with the venue having first opened its doors in 1885. THE GRUB Expect a top steak menu as well as plenty of typical pub-grub options such as burgers, pizzas and potpie with mushy peas. The starter list (from $15) is impressive, and we end up ordering, and munching, three between the two of us – delicious oysters, crispy calamari served with aioli and tangy bruschetta. The bar is set high for our mains (from $17). And my roasted barramundi fillet ($29) served in a moreish light broth with cannellini beans and mussels doesn’t disappoint. I also help myself to a few of my mate’s chips, which come with her chunky cheeseburger ($22) served in a brioche bun. We’re too stuffed for dessert ($14), but the selection includes a tempting hot apple pie as well as banoffee. THE SCENE

An astounding selection of wines ($7/$25 a glass/bottle), but we can’t resist a classic Mojito and a salt-rimmed traditional Margarita at $16. VERDICT A memorable night out in a friendly up-market pub. Well worth a visit. BEHIND THE BAR

1118 Military Road, Neutral Bay, Sydney

3 OF THE BEST SYDNEY NIGHT OUT STARTERS 6

oakshotel.com.au

THE GIN MILL

HUGOS

EL LOCO

If the Great Gatsby taught us nothing else – and it didn’t – it’s that the 1920s was just about the coolest era in all of human history. The people at the Gin Mill Social understand this and bring the roaring Twenties to life in this speakeasy-style bar in the heart of Darlinghurst. Head along on Fridays for old-fashioned fun and jazz.

Break your suit jacket out of storage or totter into your highest heels, because Hugos is where Sydney’s best dressed and beautiful like to start a night out. One of Kings Cross’s classiest venues has a beautiful cocktail bar and restaurant upstairs and a great little club downstairs with lots of top DJs. Start, or finish, your night here.

Who doesn’t love a proper Margarita and a spot of Mexican food? Good thing El Loco’s got you covered on those fronts – and with venues in both the city at the Slip Inn and on Foveaux Street in Surry Hills you’ll find one that’s near to you. The soft shell tacos at this place are absolutely to die for and the Margaritas will get you going.

slide.com.au/theginmillsocial

hugos.com.au

merivale.com.au/elloco

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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BITE SIZE

EDGE OF THE PIER Famous for its warm hospitality and massive Sunday sessions, The Pier Bar & Grill (above) also makes a seriously delectable steak. The food is not only delicious, it’s also very affordable – big servings of pizza, pasta and other mains usually run at $12 which makes it perfect for fuelling up before a big night or meeting in large groups. Also, if you fancy yourself a singer, head round on Monday nights for a karaoke session. palacehotelsydney.com.au

OUT THE BACK Cairns prides itself on being a party town and nowhere throws better parties than The Woolshed on Shields Street. With themed events every day, affordable alcohol and great music, this is an absolute staple of any night out in tropical north Queensland. The Mexican Monday is definitely one to check out. thewoolshed.com.au

SALT LICK If the mark of any good city’s bar and restaurant theme is its quality bistros, then Cairns has itself a gem in Salt House. Since 2009 this wonderful venue has offered locals and visitors a unique dining experience and one of the best panoramic views of the marina anywhere in Cairns. salthouse.com.au

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GIGLISTINGS

DANCE TO SUPPORT

@tnt_downunder

FROZEN MOVIES

Foghorn Stringband $25 Northcote Social Club, Melbourne northcotesocialclub.com

FRIDAY 8 Pitbull and Kesha from $79,90 Brisbane Riverstage, Brisbane ticketmaster.com.au

THE GIN MILL CHARITY EVENT The Gin Mill, VIC. 9 Nov. $23.50 With local bands, DJs and businesses coming together in support of the children Tomorrow Foundation cares for. Not to be missed.

The Gin Mill, Victoria

moshtix.com.au

MONDAY 4

alexbowen.net

Violent Soho $21 The Corner Hotel, Melbourne ticketscout.com.au

Urbanrtamper $15 The Toff in Town, Melbourne thetoffintown.com

Motown Mondays FREE The White Horse, Sydney thewhitehorse.com.au

Delta Jazz FREE Lane Love Club, Sydney deltajazz.net

THURSDAY 7

TUESDAY 5 Beyonce from $99,90 Adelaide Entertainment Centre livenation.com.au

Albane $35 Bennets Lane Jazz Club, Melbourne bennettslane.com

Bohemian Nights FREE Budapest Restaurant, Melbourne budapest.com.au

Jessica Maulboy from $89 Adelaide Entertainment Centre ticketek.com.au

Top Hat Tuesdays $10 Charltons, Melbourne tophattuesdays.com

Charlie Parr $29 Governor Hindmarsh Hotel, Adelaide ticketscout.com.au Scott Kelly & The Road Home $38 The Corner Hotel Melbourne ticketscout.com.au

WEDNESDAY 6 Alex Brown FREE The Vanguard, Sydney

Boy & Bear

TRES CHIC!

Jon English & the Foster Brothers $45 Kedron Wavell Services Club, Brisbane ticketmaster.com.au Dan Sultan $33,70 The Wool Exchange, Geelong oztix.com.au Nancy Vandal $20 The Zoo, Brisbane bigtix.com.au

SATURDAY 9 Busby MArou $25 The Standard, Sydney eventfinder.com.au Olly Murs from $75 The Star Event Centre, Sydney ticketek.com.au Salt-N-Pepa from $89 State Theatre, Sydney ticketmaster.com.au The Screaming Jets $45 The Corner Hotel, Melbourne cornerhotel.com Boy & Bear $47,50 The Tivoli Theatre, Brisbane ticketek.com.au

SUNDAY 10

BEN & JERRY’S OPENAIR CINEMA Several locations. October – December. From $15 Capture the spirit of summer with Ben & Jerry’s Openair Cinemas’ annual season of live outdoor music and feature films.

Several cities

openaircinemas.com.au

$49 The Corner Hotel, Melbourne ticketscout.com.au

WEDNESDAY 13 Stonefield $18,40 Zierholz @ UC, Canberra oztix.com.au

Flinders Social, Townsville oztix.com.au Mi-Sex $30 Dee Why RSL, Sydney deewhyrsl.com.au

SATURDAY 16

The John Steel Singers FREE The Beach Hotel, Sydney thejohnsteelsingers.com

THURSDAY 14 Big Sean $60,20 The Arena Brisbane, Brisbane oztix.com.au Olly Murs from $75 Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre ticketek.com.au

FRIDAY 15

Juan Alban & Los Pelicans $12 Northcote Social Club, Melbourne northcotesocialclub.com

Busby Marou $25

The Delltones $39 Cataline Country Club, Batemans Bay delltones.com

ON THE BALL

Fleetwood Mac TBA Hope Estate Winery, Hunters Valley ticketmaster.com.au The Screaming Jets $45 Waves Nightvlub, Wollongong screamingjets.com.au Salt-N-Pepa $89 Palais Theatre, Melbourne ticketmaster.com.au

SUNDAY 17 Eros Ramazotti TBA Brisbane Convention Centre livenation.com.au

Busby Marou $ 25 Heritage Hotel, Wollongong heritagehotel.com.au

MONDAY 11 Motown Mondays FREE The White Horse, Sydney thewhitehorse.com.au

SUBSONIC FESTIVAL Riverwood Downs Resort. Dec 6-8 2013. $165 + bf This luxuious new camping festival (there’s even hot showers) is being headlined by Nile Rodgers and Chic! Sounds pretty good to us. Barrington Tops, NSW

subsonicmusicfestival.com.au

One Republic $ 89,90 The Tivoli Theatre, Brisbane livenation.com.au

TUESDAY 12

IAN BALL – UNFOLD YOURSELF TOUR National tour. 18 Nov – 1 Dec. Prices TBA Along with the release of his new album Unfold Yourself, British rocker Ian Ball has announced 10 Australian tour dates.

Several cities

oztix.com.au

The Members

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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PUBLISTINGS

@tnt_downunder

GET LUCKY

FLUID SESSIONS

In Situ 34/18 Sydney Rd, Manly insitumanly.com.au Four Pines 29/43-45 East Esplanade, Manly 4pines.com.au Marlborough Hotel 145 King St, Newtown marlboroughhotel.com.au The Imperial 35 Erskineville Road, Erskineville theimperialhotel.com.au The Norfolk 305 Cleveland St, Redfern thenorfolk.co

LUCKY COQ CUP EVE Lucky Coq. Raucous tunes on the eve of the Melbourne Cup The Lucky Coq is going all out for the ‘race that stops the nation’. Free entry as well as local and international DJs both upstairs and down.

Chapel St, Windsor

luckycoq.com.au

SYDNEY PUBS Trinity Bar 505 Crown St, Surry Hills trinitybar.com.au DOME Bar Level 1 589 Crown Street, Surry Hills domebar.com.au The Mountbatten Hotel 701 George Street, Sydney sydneycityhostels.com.au Scary Canary 469 Kent St, Sydney scarycanarybar.com.au Side Bar 509 Pitt St, Sydney wakeup.com.au/side-bar Scubar 4/11-23 Rawson Place, Sydney scubar.com.au Bar Century Lvl 4 640, George St Sydney barcentury.com.au 3 Wise Monkeys 555 George St, Sydney 3wisemonkeys.com.au

Candy’s Apartment 22 Bayswater Road, Potts Point candys.com.au World Bar 24 Bayswater Road, Potts Point theworldbar.com.au Ryan’s Paragon Hotel Cnr Loftus & Alfred St, Sydney hotelparagon.com.au

The Vanguard 42 King St, Newtown thevanguard.com.au Coogee Palace 169 Dolphin St, Coogee beachpalacehotel.com.au Beach Road Hotel 71 Beach Road, Bondi Beach beachroadbondi.com.au The Bondi Hotel 178 Campbell Parade, Bondi hotelbondi.com.au Kinsela’s 383 Bourke St, Darlinghurst kniselas.com.au

The Beresford 345 Bourke St, Surry Hills merivale.com.au/theberesfordhotel Flinders Hotel 63 – 65 Flinders St, Surry Hills theflindershotel.com.au Oxford Art Factory 38-46 Oxford St, Darlinghurst White Horse Hotel oxfordartfactory.com 381 Crown St, Surry Hills thewhitehorse.com.au White Revolver Cnr Curlewis + Campbell Parade Bondi Beach MELBOURNEPUBS whiterevolver.com The Gin Mill The Palace Hotel 173 High St, Prahran Cnr of George and Hay St, City theginmillprahran.com CBD palacehotelsydney.com.au The Nite Cat 137-141 Johnston St, Fitzroy Hotel Steyne thenightcat.com.au 75 The Corso, Manly hotelsteyne.com.au Shamiana 420 Lonsdale St, Melbourne shamiana.com.au

SAY WHAAT?

FLUID OZ SUNDAYS Fluid Oz Bar. Sundays 9pm – 3am. One of Melbourne’s best late night Sunday sessions – with $6 pints and $5 pizzas all night as well as DJs, where else would you rather be?

450 Elizabeth St, Melbourne Palace Theatre palace.com.au The Hi-Fi 125 Swanston Street Melbourne thehifi.com.au The Tote 67-71 Johnston Street, Collingwood thetotehotel.com Eden Bar and Nightclub 163 Russell Street, Melbourne edenbar.com.au Turf Bar 131 Queen St Melbourne turfbar.com.au Fluid Oz Bar 450 Elizabeth Street Melbourne yelp.com.au Bar Humbug 586 Little Bourke St Melbourne barhumbug.com.au

mibp.com.au

nightowl.com.au

ADELAIDE PUBS Grace Emily Hotel 232 Waymouth St, Adelaide yourbars.com.au Electric Circus 17 Crippen Place, Adelaide electriccircus.com.au Crown and Sceptre Hotel 308 King William Street, Adelaide sceptre.com.au The Promethean 116 Grote St, Adelaide theprom.com Club 58 58 Hindley St, Adelaide club58.com.au

PERTH PUBS

Eurotrash Bar 18 Corrs Lane Melbourne eurotrashbar.com.au

The Subiaco Hotel 465 Hay Street, Subiaco subiacohotel.com.au

The Night Owl 35 Elizabeth Street Melbourne

Voodoo Lounge 174 James St, Northbridge

LIBERTY BELL

Star Bar Hotel Melbourne 160 Clarendon Street, South Melbourne starbarhotel.com.au Asian Beer Cafe 211 La Trobe St, Melbourne asianbeercafe.com.au Cherry Bar 103 Flinders Lane Melbourne myspace.com/cherrybarmelbourne Corner Hotel 57 Swan Street Richmond cornerhotel.com

WHIP IT, WEDNESDAYS WHaat Club. Wednesadays, 9pm – late. Bored and looking for a big mid-week night? Whaat Club have you covered with Whip It – free entry and $5 drinks until 11, so get in early. 20 Bayswater Rd, Kings Cr

facebook.com/WHaatClub

The Penny Black 420 Sydney Road, Brunswick thepennyblack.com.au Esplanade Hotel 11 The Esplanade, St Kilda espy.com.au Northcote Social Club 301 High Street Northcote northcotesocialclub.com

UNIVERSE AT THE LIBERTY SOCIAL The Liberty Social. Thursday nights With free entry before 10.30pm, $5 spiced rum all night and $4 ‘Liberty’ shots, can you think of a better place for a Thursday night? 279 Flinders Lane. Melb

thelibertysocial (Facebook)

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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The Palace 2013/2014

Sundays Rooftop From midday DJs Live Music

! f wt

$4.99 drinks facebook.com/beachpalacehotel 169 Dolphin Street, Coogee, NSW BEACH PALACE HOTEL PrOmOTEs THE rEsPOnsiBLE sErviCE Of ALCOHOL

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PUBLISTINGS voodoolounge.com.au The Shed 69-71 Aberdeen St Northbridge, the-shed.com.au The East End Bar and Grill 189 High Street, Fremantle theeastendbar.com.au The Clink Nightclub 14-16 South Terrace, Fremantle theclink.com.au

BRISBANE PUBS Hotel LA 68 Petrie Terrace, Brisbane hotella.com.au GPO Hotel 740 Anne St, Fort Valley gpohotel.com.au Canvas Club 16b Logan St, Woolloongabba canvasclub.com.au The Fringe Bar Cnr Ann and Constance St fringebar.com.au Pig ‘N’ Whistle Riverside 123 Eagle Street, Brisbane pignwhistle.com.au Sky Room 2/234 Wickham St, Fort Valley skyroom.com.au Bravo Bar Brunswick Central, 455 Brunswick St Fortitude Valley hotelbravo.com.au The Met Nightclub 256 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley themet.com.au The Exchange Hotel 131 Edward St, Brisbane theexchange.com.au Iceworks Cnr Given Tce & Dowse St, Paddington iceworks.com.au

GOLD COAST PUBS Blush Nightclub 21 Orchid Avenue Surfers Paradise blushnightclub.com.au Benowa Tavern 117 Ashmore Rd, Benowa surfersbeergarden.com Coolangatta Sands Hotel 3 Griffith St, Coolangatta coolangattasandshotel.com.au Shooters Superclub Shop 46 The Mark Orchid Avenue Surfers Paradise shooterssuperclub.com

CAIRNS PUBS

Rattle N Hum 65-67 Esplanade rattlenhumbar.com Gilligan’s Backpacker Hostel 57-89 Grafton St gilligansbackpackerhostel.com. au

HOBART PUBS Syrup Nightclub 39 Salamanca Pl, Battery Point syrupclub.com.au Republic Bar 299 Elizabeth St, Hobart republicbar.com.au Isobar 11 Franklin Wharf Hobart isobar.com.au Knopwood’s Retreat 39 Salamanca Pl Hobart (03)6223 5808 The Duke 192 Macquarie Street Hobart theduke.com.au

NEWCASTLE PUBS Kent Hotel 59-61 Beaumont St, Hamilton thekenthotel.com.au Kings Street Hotel 15 Steel St, Newcastle West kingsstreethotel.com.au Mary Ellen Hotel 57 Railway St, Mereweather maryellenhotel.com.au Bar Petite 5 King St, Newcastle barpetite.com.au The Northern Star 112 Beaumont St, Hamilton northernstarhotel.com.au Hamilton Station Hotel 2-6 Beaumont St, Islington hamiltonstation.com.au Hotel Delany 134 Darby St, Newcastle hoteldelany.com.au Sunyside Tavern 20 Broadmeadow Rd, Broadmeadow sunnysidetavern.com.au Premier Hotel 1 Brunker Rd, Broadmeadow hotelpremier.com.au Isobar 1 Honeysuckle Drive Newcastle thelanding.com Cambridge Hotel 789 Hunter St, Newcastle yourcambridge.com Lass O’Gowrie Hotel 14 Railway St, Wickham lassogowriehotel.com.au

Salt House 6/2 Pier Point Rd, Cairns salthouse.com.au

Albion Hotel 72 Hannell St, Wickham thealbion.com.au

Fabric Cnr Shields and Esplanade St cairnsevents.com pubs

Hamilton Hotel 71 Tudor St, Hamilton hamiltonhotel.com.au

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RACE DAY!

Wickham Park Hotel 61 Maitland Rd, Islington thewicko.com.au Cricketers Arms 61 Bruce St, Cooks Hill tab.com.au Oriental Hotel 53 Bull St, Cooks Hill wotif.com.au Royal Inn Hotel Waratah 61/69 Station St, Waratah truelocal.com.au

BYRON BAY PUBS Cheeky Monkey’s 115 Jonson St, Byron Bay cheekymonkeys.com.au The Northern 35-43 Jonson St, Byron Bay thenorthern.com.au The Owl & The Pussycat 85 Jonson St, Byron Bay opcbyron.com.au Beach Hotel Bay Ln, Byron Bay beachhotel.com.au Woody’s Surf Shack 90-96 Jonson St, Byron Bay woodysbyronbay.com Treehouse on Belongil 25 Childe St, Byron Bay treehouseonbelongil.com

CANBERRA PUBS Transit Bar 7 Akuna St, Canberra transitbar.com.au Cube Nightclub 33 Petrie Plaza, City cubenightclub.com.au ICBM 50 Northbourne Ave, Canberra icbmbar.com Mooseheads 105 London Circuit, Canberra mooseheads.com.au Academy Club 15 Bunda St, Canberra academyclub.com.au

PIPER-HEIDSIECK SPRING CARNIVAL The Bellevue. Now – Tue, Nov 5 (Melbourne Cup day) Horseracing is supposedly the sport of kings, so, what better thing to drink than champagne? This pop up bar won’t be around for ever.

159 Hargrave Street, Paddo 234 Corrimal Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au Questions Unit 5 123-125 Corrimal Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au Castros 5 Victoria Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au

DARWIN PUBS Squires Tavern 3 Edmunds St Darwin squirestavern.com.au The Deck Bar 22 Mitchell St, Darwin thedeckbar.com.au

bellevuehotel.com.au

toddtavern.com.au The Rock Bar 2/78 Todd St, Alice Springs

therockbar.com.au The Barra Bar 34 Stott Tce, Alice Springs

chifleyhotels.com.au Firkin n Hound 21 Hartely St, Alice Springs

(08) 8953 3033 The Juicy Rump

The Tap Bar 58 Mitchell St, Darwin thetap.com.au

Lasseters Hotel Casino, Alice

ALICE SPRINGS PUBS

Bojangles Saloon

Todd Tavern Todd Mall, Alice Springs

Springs

juicyrump.com.au

80 Todd St, Alice Springs

yourbars.com.au

BACK IN BLACK

WOLLONGONG PUBS OneFiveOne 150 Keira Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au Grand Hotel 124 Keira Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au Glasshouse + Su Casa 90 Crown Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au Ivory 77 – 79 Crown Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au Alibi 76 Crown Street Wollongong wollongongnightlife.com.au

RACE DAY @ THE PENNY BLACK The Penny Black. All day November 5, until 1am Big screen projecter for the race, live music, a TAB next door and lots of food and drink on offer. Back a winner at the Penny Black! 420 Sydney Rd, Brunswick

thepennyblack.com.au

Harp Hotel

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EVERY SUNDAY FROM 4PM

CRN CHAPEL & HIGH ST WINDSOR WWW.LUCKYCOQ.COM.AU 01_734p3-13 LUCKYCOQ.indd upfront.indd 1 13

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Hmm. What now?

Photos: Thinkstock

Don't mind if I do...

For both cash and visa reasons, many backpackers end up doing harvest jobs

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ESSENTIALSFOCUS

Just arrived? Bleary-eyed, jet-lagged and not sure how to set up your new life in Oz? Here’s your guide to getting the vitals sorted WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK

Fresh from a coma-inducing flight to the land Down Under and don’t know which way is up? Have no fear – TNT has an essential eight-point guide to setting yourself up in Australia.

Tax File Number The first thing you’ll need to do if you’re planning on getting a job Down Under is get a Tax File Number (TFN). You need to give it to your boss within 28 days of starting work. Don’t be surprised to find yourself paying crazy rates of tax if you forget. It’s really not that hard to get one. By far the easiest way is to visit the Australian Taxation Office (ATO) website at iar.ato.gov.au and fill in the form online (it takes about 20 minutes). Failing that, try ringing them on 13 28 61 or pop into one of their offices. Just remember to have your passport, visa details and an Australian address to hand.

Bank account You’ll need an Aussie bank account to get wages paid into. This normally involves going to a branch in person. The big four banks in Australia are ANZ, Commonwealth, NAB and Westpac. It’s best to shop around for the best deals, because often in Oz, there’s no such thing as free banking. Many accounts charge you for almost everything – from using a different bank’s ATM to a monthly fee for just having an account. It’s also worth signing up for a MasterCard debit card as without one you’ll have to keep resorting to your credit card from home to pay for stuff online. Whichever you choose, take along your passport and at least one other piece of ID, such as a photo driver’s licence or student card.

Medicare If you’re unfortunate to come down with the dreaded lergy, you’ll thank your lucky stars you visited a Medicare office to pick up a Reciprocal Health Care card (if you’re eligible). Best to do this as soon as possible because if you get sick while you’re in Australia you’ll be taken care of. If you hail from the UK, the Netherlands, Sweden, Norway, Finland, Italy, Malta or Belgium, then you’re in luck, as you get looked after best, and even get a sexy little Medicare card to stick in your wallet. Beware that different nationalities get cover for different amounts of time, not necessarily your whole stay Down Under, so make sure you check what you’re eligible for.

All you need to do is take your passport, plus in some cases proof you are enrolled in your country’s national health care scheme, along to a Medicare office. They’ll then send your card out, so make sure you’ve got an Aussie mailing address. When going to a doctor, it’s worth picking one that does “bulk billing”. This means you only have to pay the subsidised rate up front, rather than paying full whack and then having to go to a Medicare office for a refund. Travellers from Ireland and New Zealand aren’t quite so lucky, although those countries do still have reciprocal agreements with Australia. This means that despite not getting a Medicare card, you do still get free emergency treatment at public hospitals, subsidised prescriptions and necessary medical care. Take note that students are not eligible for Medicare. They must instead take out Overseas Student Health Cover, as a condition of their visa. For more info, visit medicareaustralia.gov.au or phone 13 20 11.

Jobs, jobs, jobs Australia’s job market is like a platter of hors d’oeuvres for backpackers. Some positions are in hot demand and are gobbled up before you even have a chance to apply, while others are left over for the truly hungry and desperate. There are some skilled positions and even whole industries that can’t get enough backpackers, meaning they offer incentives to lure in overseas workers. For example, nurses are in high demand in Australia. Many nursing agencies offer fringe benefits to attract you, from accommodation and phones to reward systems, which may include travel. You may find work as a temporary midwife, with the Royal Flying Doctor Service in the outback, or in the operating room in a busy city hospital. Temping agencies often have plenty of office positions available, which have the plus side of giving you the flexibility to leave at short notice and you’re often paid weekly. On the flipside, the employer only needs to give you one day’s notice. Hospitality skills especially open up opportunities in Australia, with the al fresco scene vibrant all year round. So if you want to cook, pull beers or wait tables, keep an eye on the local newspaper and feel free to drop your resumé in to restaurants, asking to see the manager. Be aware that states and territories have different legislation ›› TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Get mobile As well as keeping in touch with friends and family back home and in Oz, having a mobile phone could simply be the difference between you getting that job or the other candidate that’s easily contactable. Vodafone often has the best pre-paid deals, but beware that reception outside the main cities might be fairly non-existent. Telstra and Optus are the two biggest Aussie networks.

Tax and Super

governing the serving of alcohol. In some states you are required to complete a one-day course in Responsible Service of Alcohol (RSA). In NSW these cost around $100, but you may have to redo it in each state you wish to work in. You might also have to gain a Responsible Conduct of Gambling (RSG) in order to work near gambling devices. For those who like to get their hands dirtier than a Miley video director's mind, then the harvest trail is for you. Plus, if you work as a “seasonal worker” in regional Australia for three months (88 days) you can extend your working holiday visa for a second year. Head to immi.gov.au for more info. Visit jobsearch.gov.au/harvesttrail to find out what crops are grown where and when. Good general jobs sites to check out include tntjobs.com.au, seek.com.au and careerone.com.au.

When you cease working for an employer, make sure you get a payment summary, showing your total income and amount of tax withheld. It is essential to keep this for your compulsory tax return. The tax form (to be completed after the end of the tax year on June 30) may seem like a chore, but isn’t too complicated. Plus, if you’ve not worked full-time for the whole year you’ve almost certainly paid too much tax, meaning you’ll be in line for a tasty windfall, often over $1000. You can either do the form yourself or pay an agent to do it (normally about $100). When filling in your tax return ask yourself, “Am I a resident for tax purposes?” Anybody staying in one place for any length of time can say they are, and so receive a tax-free threshold and a lower tax rate. Visit ato.gov.au for the info. Another one to remember is your superannuation contributions (which is like a state pension). If you earn over $450 a month (before tax), your employer is obliged to pay contributions (equal to nine per cent of your salary) into a fund. When you leave the country you can claim them back. This can be a hassle, but again, agents will take the stress out of it for a fee. Unfortunately, you will be taxed between 30 and 40 per cent on your claims and you cannot make the claim until you have left the country.

Rates of pay

Home time

Ah, the big question on every interviewee’s lips. The one you’re too scared to ask about. Temping and office work can vary greatly from $15 up to $60 an hour for specialised professions. Average administrative roles in major cities usually pay between $20 and $27 per hour. A job in hospitality will have you earning anything from around $15 an hour up to about $25, but bear in mind jobs with lower wages often get better tips, plus there’s often bonus rates (such as double time on public holidays). Also, you might get paid less at resorts, but it might be easier to blag free trips, dives, ski passes etc. Fruitpicking work is paid either by the hour or by the “bin”, which often works out more profitable if you’re willing to put the effort in. Whatever you’re doing you must be paid at least the National Minimum Wage per hour. That’s $16.37 (or $622.20 per week) if you’re 21 or older. It varies if you’re younger, so call the Fair Work Info Line on 13 13 94 or check fairwork.gov.au. When doing harvest work paid by the bucket, employers must still pay you the minimum hourly rate. You are entitled to one unpaid 30 minute meal break per day plus one paid 10 minute rest break. You should also get a payslip within one day of wages being paid.

Depending on how long you want to stay, how comfortable you want to be and whether you enjoy a party every sundown, there’s plenty of options for where you lay your head each night. When you’re on the road a hostel dorm room (the bigger the better) is obviously your cheapest option. Don’t always be too hasty to move on, however, with most places offering discounts for staying a week. Ask if they have any jobs going. You can often do a few hours of cleaning or reception work in return for a free stay. If you’re staying a bit longer, you’ll save cash by moving into mid-term accommodation. This normally requires a commitment of at least one month and will see you in a big furnished house, normally with bills included. Longer term, you’ll have to get a lease on a flat/house. This will involve having references, paying a bond up front (normally a month’s rent) and signing up for anything from three months to a year in advance. Unfurnished rental properties are the norm in Oz, but there are specialist estate agencies who have got rooms good to go, albeit usually at a slightly inflated price. It’s also well worth checking out websites like gumtree.com.au for room share options and secondhand furniture. ❚

Jobs done, time to party

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RECEPTION: +61 2 9281 6030 1/11/13 9:22 AM

WIN

ARE YOU SPOTTED IN THE CIRCLE?

If that’s you in the circle, email us at tom@ tntdownunder.com with ‘Spotted’ in the subject line. Email must include a photo of yourself. Boom! You’ve won a $100 bar tab at Scubar. Like us on facebook/ tntdownunder for more party pics from the night

CRAB RACING MONDAY October 2013

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STOP THE CLOCK PIZZA

THE EARLIER YOU GET IN, THE CHEAPER THE PIZZA Cnr George St & Rawson Pl Sydney Central | scubar.com.au 01_734p14-25 01_725p3-19 A&E A&E.indd upfront19 .indd 19

28/6/13 31/10/139:38:39 7:57 AM

CHATROOM

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Jody Kamali

The British comedian and backpacker on his new show The A-Z Of Backpacking, about his experiences travelling the world INTERVIEW ALASDAIR MORTON

What fuelled your desire to go backpacking round the world? I talk about this in my new show. What makes us want to drop everything and venture into the unknown. For me, life got a bit stale. Nothing was really happening with my comedy career, the day job was boring. In a poetic kind of way, I was dreaming of the world outside of the UK. What was the most dangerous moment of your backpacking experience? Without a doubt, getting lost in San Salvador, El Salvador [which is] notorious for gangs. I ended up on my own in some small run down village – people gave me the weirdest looks. I ended up asking some guy, who was wearing a vest top I later discovered was concealing two guns, directions to the bus station. “Ere mate,” I said in my Bristolian accent. “Do you know where the bus station is like?” He looked at me confused – I don’t think he had heard a Bristolian accent before – and then calmly gave me directions. What are your favourite places you have been to? Guatemala [because of the] beautiful landscapes, super friendly people, cheap accommodation and it not so commercial – yet! And India which is a truly sensory experience. It’s a magical, mind-blowing place with amazing cuisine and a fascinating culture which begs you to go back and discover more. Which places failed to live up to your expectations? Thailand. It’s gone downhill. It so expensive and you don’t get value for your money. It’s almost that the country is so popular now the Thai people don’t need to deliver on customer service and quality as much anymore as the people keep on coming. I couldn’t wait to leave. What were the most annoying types of traveller you have bumped into? Has to be the loud, bragging, know-it-all ones. The traveller who has done it all – wherever you have been to is not as good as where they have. They also talk loudly on long bus journeys boasting about their experiences 20

Travel tales: Jody shares his backpacking stories on the unbeaten path. Along the lines of: “I literally was taken in and treated like a fellow Mayan tribesman. I became one of them. I even learned the language but I have forgotten it now though.” Then there’s the spiritual seekers in India, the yoga fanatics, trying to be this calm, centred, god-like person, wearing brightcoloured, hippy clothing bearing the Indian gods and using words like energy, flow and universe in every other sentence. Which one moment or experience do you most fondly remember? It has to be with Keith the Chocolate Shaman. A Texan who’d moved to Guatemala. He was an amazing person dedicated to freeing people from all the crap in their lives. He does this by using raw organic chocolate. Sounds completely bonkers, but it totally works. I’m sure I have heard that chocolate in ancient Mayan times was a “food of the gods”. Well, chocolate has natural endorphins and when in its purest, organic form and drunk in high concentration, it sends you to a happy place. Do you think you might hang up your pack and settle down one day, and if so where would it be? I am not sure I would ever stop travelling. I suppose the day I have children, I will slow

down but in the spirit of the Norwegians, I will throw the baby on the backpack and hike away. I constantly dream of settling down in Lago de Atitlan in Guatemala. It’s a stunning volcanic crater lake, full of mystery and beauty. I actually was shown land by an estate agent when I revisited four years ago. I had no money to buy it but I just liked the idea of buying it. I told the agent I would plant banana and coffee trees and I am trying to convince my wife that this is a great idea. What are the pros and cons of travelling solo in your experience? [The pros are] freedom to travel where you want, when you want and meeting a ton of new people you wouldn’t normally be friends with. The cons are occasional periods of loneliness and never being able to laugh and share ‘that time when…’ stories with your friends when you are back home. What is the most important piece of advice you would give someone embarking on their own adventure? Go with the flow and see where you end up, don’t stick to an itinerary, relax and on’t worry about trying to see everything. I have had some of the best times when they were unplanned.

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FILMREVIEW

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THE FIFTH ESTATE FILM review STARRING: Benedict Cumberbatch, Daniel Brühl, Peter Capaldi | 124mins | M | Out Nov 14

THOR: THE DARK WORLD FILM Chris Hemsworth, Natalie Portman, Anthony Hopkins | M | 112mins

This post-Thor/ post-Avengers sequel sees sibling relations between Hemsworth’s Thor and his nuisance of a brother Loki (Tom Hiddleston – above) come to the fore as they’re forced to team up to work out their issues and defeat Christopher Eccleston’s dark elf warlord. Out now

Julian Assange has been vocal in his discrediting of this film about the birth of WikiLeaks and the global implications that its release of secret government files and information has had. But it’s a strong movie, making it hard to understand why the WikiLeaks founder has opposed it so vigorously. Benedict Cumberbatch plays Assange while Daniel Brühl takes on co-founder Daniel Berg, whose book (or at least Josh Singer’s screenplay of it) and the accounts of Guardian journalist David Leigh, are what forms the basis of this story. It is with this in mind that Assange has voiced his disagreement (and personally urged Cumberbatch to turn down the role), labelling the film a character assassination, amongst other things. But Bill Condon’s film, if anything, is too reluctant to take a defined point of view at all. Debates about the morals of WikiLeaks’ actions rumble on, with CGI flourishes used extensively to remind us all we are in a digital age, while the breakdown in the relationship between Assange and Berg shape the story as the stakes are raised, with Berg finally denouncing Assange as a “manipulative asshole”. But Condon and Singer hedge their bets too much and are at pains to present both sides of the story, which is perhaps indicative of journalistic integrity but less befitting a Hollywood movie. Cumberbatch is excellent as the Aussie at the heart of a series of events with truly global ramifications, nailing Assange’s mannerisms, and it unfolds with passion and pace. If only it lifted the lid on the story behind the story a little more. GOOD FOR: Seeing Cumberbatch take another leap to the top of the Hollywood pile

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Planning to stay longer? Why not help with medical research. Volunteers receive payment for their time commitment. Join the team at the Medicines Research Unit and help us to develop new medicines for various diseases by taking part in a clinical trial. If you are 18-65 and of good health, we could really use your help!

MORE INFORMATION 1800 475 475 VOLUNTEERS.4.TRIALS@GSK.COM

Do More, Feel Better, Live Longer

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LIFESTYLELIVING BEST APRÈS-FITNESS RITUALS

Carb loading: What better way to congratulate your weary bones than with an upsized burger combo?

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Fake get fit Top five activities to get you in shape, without you knowing WORDS ALEX HARMON & ROSEMARIE MARINO

Don’t worry. We would never even consider doing this. That would be insane

Facebook: A selfie at the gym or a status with how much you lifted. Your friends need to know

Trapeze the day

Sex: This almost falls into the exercise category in our books. In that case, see above to celebrate

Did you ever threaten your parents that you were going to run away and join the circus? Well, now your childhood tantrums can come true. At Sydney’s Trapeze School the instructors will have you flying through the air within the first hour of class, and unlike regular circus folk, they don’t smell like cabbage. In the heart of Centennial Park you’ll find an outdoor flying trapeze set up in the sky (complete with safety net). Classes

host around 12 people so you’re not waiting too long in the sun before you’re climbing the ladder, dusting your hands with chalk and reaching for the bar. As you listen to the shouts from the instructor on the ground you’ll master it in a few attempts. While you’re soaring through the air you’ll actually be toning your upper body and core muscles, and improving your flexibility. And unlike the sports that beat you down, trapeze is great for your self-confidence. Especially when a stranger tells you to dangle your body in the air upside down and latch onto their arms as you defy gravity – and common sense. Indoor classes cost from $55 and are available year-round in St Peters. sydneytrapezeschool.com

Get your Batman on If you are afraid of heights and haven’t tried skydiving or bungy jumping before, this high-altitude sports craze probably isn’t for you. But for those lovers of crazy athletics, Wingsuit Flying could be the answer to that dream of becoming a superhero. Okay, you’re not saving the world, but you can finally fulfill the fantasy of being able to fly. Wingsuit Flying is a cross between hangliding and skydiving. You still have to pull a parachute chord, but the descent is slower than skydiving, allowing you to soar horizontally and do some aerial acrobatics. Great for developing those core muscles

Photos: Thinkstock

Boozing: Like carb loading, heading to the pub is another worthy reward for exercise

The Streets may have sung “You’re Fit But Don’t You Know It,” but we here at TNT are more of the ‘get fit without knowing it’ kind of people. Whether it’s weightlifting cartons of beer, or getting into a heated pool match at the pub, we like to get our fitness on without being told we’ve almost burnt the calories of the Mars Bar we had for breakfast. In fact, it’s better if you don’t tell us that we’re getting fit. It can be enough to turn our stomachs. And we’re not condoning bulimia either, unless of course you mean the many times we lost our breakfast while Zorbing or skydiving after a big night. Anyway, like the hardy journalists that we are, we got out there and tested some of the many ways to exercise while having a good time. Because Zumba – as fun as that word sounds – is really not that fun. Here’s what we came up with…

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Stretching: a great way to feel like you’re getting fit, and look like you’re getting fit

and feeling like you don’t have a care in the world. It is the exercise story to beat everyone’s pitiful attempts at the gym. 5dwingsuiting.com

Climb the walls Want to burn up to 800 calories in an hour? Rain, hail or shine, there is a place you can go to re-enact the daring explorer within. Indoor rock climbing is one of the best ways to strengthen muscles you didn’t even know existed while having fun. Being a completely un-cliché way to work out, some of the areas you can expect to improve in are strength, balance, weight loss, muscle development and cardio health. It has been said to be like yoga on a wall, because you are using your arms to heave yourself up and legs to push yourself forward. To begin, you’ll generally climb shorter walls or little bouldering caves without a rope or harness. Make some goals and commit to it, and one day you could be climbing upside down on the roof. Entry costs $18. indoorclimbing.com.au

Party the carbs away Get rid of that stage fright in a group based ‘Cardioke’ workout. Normally you’d need to be heavily intoxicated to get up and sing in front of a crowd, but this new trend channels those fears and turns them in to an interesting high energy laugh, therefore burning away more of the beer

belly. Either attached to the exercise bike, or projected on a big screen, the tunes you know and love will distract your body from the pain and help you to push through to some total body burning! There are even slight developments of Karaoke Yoga, incorporating the ever so important ‘air guitar’ pose. cardiokedvd.com

Rock ‘n’ rolling If you haven’t already heard, a great way to keep in shape is by joining a Roller Derby team. The contact sport has been around since the 1920s with a resurgence in the 70s (and more recently when the film Whip It came out). It’s mainly female-dominated but lately it has a growing number of guys taking part too. To play, two teams must skate in the same direction around a track. Teams have a scoring player – the ‘jammer’ – who gains points by overtaking members of the opposite team on a full lap, whilst the others block their opposition. The game has become so popular that you’ll find a league in most towns in Australia and is even under consideration for the 2020 Olympics. If you are looking for a somewhat more tame option, give ice-skating or rollerblading on a normal rink a try. You will still get the cardio and strength, just not the intensity and fun as a win with your team would be. Most rinks are fully equipped with a DJ and skate hire, so grab some friends and make an afternoon of it sydneyrollerderby.com.au

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WORLDVIEW

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Happy birthday! A giant birthday cake sits on the Opera House forecourt to celebrate the Sydney Opera House’s 40th anniversary

S KOREAN POLICE – GANGNAM STYLE SOUTH KOREA

Seoul’s ‘tourist police’ force’s uniforms have been designed by the man behind the ‘Gangnam Style’ singer’s, er, style. The force, which has been formed to prevent tourists from being ripped off during their stay in the capital, are donning blue blazers with a silver shirt and tie, plus the obligatory sunglasses and a rather jaunty military beret. During the launch of the force, currently made up of around 100 policemen and women, the ‘Gangnam Style’ hit was played, and the troops rode their imaginary horses with gusto.

MOBILE SURVIVES THREE MONTHS UNDERWATER

SWEDEN

A man in Sweden found his Nokia mobile phone after it has been lost in a lake for three months and was shocked to discover that it still worked. Roger Nilsson had discovered the phone between two rocks after it had been lost three months ago and took it home. He cleaned it up from all the mud and dirt that was on it and left it to dry only to discover that the handset still worked. The most remarkable thing about the whole business is that the Nokia Lumia 800 is not especially designed to be waterproof, and certainly not for this duration of time. We know we’ve broken countless phones just by dropping it in our pint/ down the toilet/in a puddle (usually on the same night). 26

FAMILY KEEP BODY TO SCARE AWAY GHOSTS INDIA

An Indian family lived with the body of a deceased relative because they thought keeping the corpse around would help fend off evil spirits. The family of three from Nagercoil, India, kept the body of the deceased 56-year-old woman under the bed in the hope that doing so would scare off ghosts. The authorities made the discovery

when neighbours had complained about a smell coming from the house. The woman’s mother, son and brother were notoriously superstitious. Her brother had told the police that his father had died after seeing a ghost in the house and so he had decided to keep his sister’s body in the house in order to make sure that no more spirits would trouble them. The three have been taken to hospital to be treated for a possible infection caused by the decomposing body. Police said, “All three looked like they had psychological problems. That is also one of the reasons why we referred them to the hospital,” as reported it Hindustarn Times newspaper. We don’t think they’ve got a patch on the Ghost Busters.

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THIS WEEK

IN NUMBERS 49

The age difference in years between former Italian leader Silvio Berlusconi, 77, and his 28-year-old new wife.

The number of pictures a New Yorker has of her with various celebrities. She spends 12 hours a day tracking them down.

Water phone! A Nokia that spent three months underwater still works

AFTERNOON IS THE TIME FOR LYING

10,000

The amount of time in days a pet dog spent trapped in a badger sett before being found alive by his owner.

AMERICA

The morning is the most likely time for people to be honest and we get more dishonest as the day goes on, according to new research. A study carried out at celebrated US university Harvard has discovered that it is easier and more likely for people to lie in the afternoon than it is in the morning. The university carried out experiments in which people’s propensity for lying for self-reward were put to the test, with the results showing that those who took part in the experiments were more likely to start telling falsehoods after lunch. “Our findings suggest that the mere time of day can lead to a systematic failure of good people to act morally,” said Dr Maryam Kouchaki.

BOMBER KILLS NO ONE BUT HIMSELF

Photos: Getty Images

TUNISIA

A suicide bomber who detonated his device on a hotel’s beach in Tunisia failed to kill anyone but himself. According to reports, a man carrying explosives tried to get into the Riadh Palm Hotel in the resort of Sousse, but when he was not allowed in, he ran onto the beach and blew himself up. He was the only reported casualty. It is the first attack of its kind in Tunisia for more than a decade. Five other alleged plotters were arrested, say police.

The amount in tonnes that the largest dinosaur weighed. Its giant steps were recently reconstructed.

CHRISTMAS JUMPER IS CAMERA SHY UK

A shopper in south London was kicked out of a Primark store for taking a photograph on her phone of a Christmas jumper. Jade-Marie Harman had taken a snap of a Mr Christmas jumper in the bargain store, when she was told that she could not do so because it was illegal. “I just saw this Christmas jumper with Mr Christmas on the front,” the 25-yearold told local newspaper News Shopper. “The next thing I know I hear a voice shout ‘you can’t take photos in here – it’s against the law!’” As she was leaving the store, having bought a couple of items, she was then promptly told she had been banned from the shop. Ms Harman said she was left “crying her eyes out” and feeling “like the scum of the earth”.

QUOTE OF THE WEEK If England do not close Australia down then they will make them pay Dewi Morris reckons Australia poses a serious threat to England in the Rugby League World Cup. We agree Morris

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SPORTNEWS

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CHURCHILL MEDALIST DALY CHERRY-EVANS RUGBY LEAGUE The 2013 Rugby League World Cup champion will be crowned after the final on November 30 at Old Trafford, but there’s a big month of ‘footy’ to go before we get to that point. TNT quizzed Manly and Australia’s Daly Cherry-Evans (above), the halfback who won the Clive Churchill medal for best player in the NRL grand final despite being on the losing side, about the tournament. Where does the World Cup sit in terms of prestige for a league player who’s a star in the NRL and State of Origin? Playing for your country is the highest accolade a player can receive, so to win the World Cup we’d rate very highly, if not at the pinnacle of our careers. Is there added inspiration for the Aussies after losing the 2008 final to the Kiwis? I can only comment personally, and this is only my first World Cup, so I don’t have any background or any more ill-feeling to any nation that isn’t naturally there. I’ll be looking to start from scratch and win this World Cup on its own merits. Was it a good or a bad thing to get such a strong side like England first up? It was tough first up. Doesn’t bother me though, you have to win as many of the pool games as you can. The further you go along the better you play, so to get a win against England early puts us in good stead for the tournament. Are England a genuine title threat? Anyone who thinks England aren’t a title threat are almost stupid – they’re a host nation and they have a lot on their side, including the crowds and home field advantage come the later rounds. So they’re still on the top of our radar. 28

It will be an image etched on all Australian rugby league fans’ memories, when New Zealand won the 2008 World Cup final 34-20. Then came this spectacular haka once they’d been presented the trophy – can they repeat the deed this month? What are the key areas the Kangaroos have to look at to fend off NZ and England? Stopping a team go forward, you go a long way to winning a football match, so we’ve got to work hard on that. What sort of an impact will Sonny Bill Williams have on the tournament? He has a huge impact on any side, he’s such an athlete in so many sports. We need to worry about him, but only to a certain extent because they’re such a tough side across the park, not a one-man team. Your Manly mate Keiran Foran’s taken over from Benji Marshall – does that add to the inevitable clash with them? He’s gonna be a big part of the tournament for the Kiwis, when we meet them we’re going to have to try and limit his involvement to help contain the Kiwis.

UNDER THE PUMP Disgraced Wallaby James O’Connor is rebuilding his career in the UK with London Irish after the Australian Rugby Union canned his contract. The blow due to one too many off-field misdemeanors has made him ineligible to play for the national team until 2015. But now he’s out of the Australian sport bubble and his new base until the end of the Premiership Rugby season is Madejski Stadium in Reading. Could this be the start of one of the great comebacks?

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HIGHLIGHTS THIS MONTH

Clarke and Cook

Leaving it late: Roger Federer

PREVIEW FED EXPRESS DELAYED IN O2 ARRIVAL TENNIS: ATP TOUR FINALS IN LONDON NOV 4-11 It was the tournament organisers’ worst nightmare when Roger Federer almost didn’t qualify for this tournament, which is open to only the top eight players of the year. With third for the year Andy Murray out injured, it gives another player an opportunity, but it still took a first-round win in Paris last week to confirm Federer’s spot at the O2. Federer is one of the most popular sportsmen in the world, despite his

recent dip in form, and at this tournament last year got bigger cheers from the London crowd than Murray. This is the 12th time in a row the Swiss has qualified for the tour finals, which will be spearheaded this season by Novak Djokovic and Rafael Nadal. Also appearing will be Juan Martin Del Potro, David Ferrer and Tomas Berdych. The singles champion will be presented with the The Brad Drewett Trophy, which honours the memory of the ATP executive chairman and president who passed away in May this year.

Photos:Getty

Let’s get trivial | All white at World Cups New Zealand take on Mexico in a play-off to reach World Cup finals in Brazil – it’s a tall order but a position the All Whites are growing accustomed to. New Zealand have never being disgraced at the World Cup’s pinnacle, despite never making it out of the group stage. When they first qualified, in 1982, they beat Australia in their qualifying group and went through after a play-off win against China. They copped Brazil, who beat them and Scotland 4-0, but managed two goals against Scotland. That was nothing compared to the last effort though. Despite losing to Fiji in qualifying, New Zealand were the only undefeated team in the 2010 finals after draws with Italy, Slovakia and Paraguay. They finished ahead of winless Italy.

All Whites’ Winston Reid

3 CRICK: Bangladesh v New Zealand 4-11 TEN: ATP Tour Finals 5 RACING: Melbourne Cup 5-8 CRICK: Australia A v England 8 RLWC: New Zealand v PNG 8 RU: Italy v Australia 8 RU: England v Argentina 8 RU: France v New Zealand 9 RLWC: England v Fiji 9 RLWC: Australia v Ireland 10 FOOT: Man Utd v Arsenal 15 RLWC: QF1 – Win B v Win C 15-17 F1: US Grand Prix 16 RLWC: QF2 – Win A v Win D 16 RLWC: QF3 Run-up A v 3rd B 16 RU: England v New Zealand 16 RU: Ireland v Australia 17 RLWC: QF4 Run-up B v 3rd A 19 FOOT: SOCCEROOS V COSTA RICA 20 FOOT: World Cup qualifier – All Whites v Mexico 21-25 CRICKET: ASHES – AUSTRALIA V ENGLAND FIRST TEST IN BRISBANE 22-24 F1: Brazilian Grand Prix 23 RLWC: SF Winner QF1 v QF3 and Winner QF2 v QF4 (Both at Wembley) 23 RU: Harlequins v Gloucester 23 RU: Scotland v Australia 23 FOOT: Everton v Liverpool 24 RU: Ireland v New Zealand 24 FOOT: Man City v Tottenham 30 RLWC: Final at Old Trafford 30 RUG: Wales v Australia Dec 1 FOOT: Tottenham v Man Utd TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Ashes Down Under When the Ashes battle resumes in Brisbane this month, all the pressure is on England... Australia hope WORDS MICHAEL GADD

It’s getting serious now Australia – after losing the

TOP ORDER FORM

most recent series in England 3-0, the old enemies are officially tied on 31 series each. And with England notching up series victories to nil, the record of 123 Test wins to England’s 103 will be reversed before long.

If England showed a weakness in the series just gone, it was in their top order trio. Australia’s quicks had one over them and since top-order batsmen and quicks tend to decide Ashes series in Australia, that battle will be key. Two of the guys who struggled in England (Jonathan Trott and Alastair Cook) dominated last time out. Cook scored 766 runs last time in Oz, so regardless of form right now has every reason to be confident if he’s fit.

Australia take cold comfort in being hosts now as they try to fend off a fourth Ashes loss in a row. The last series in Australia was full of all the wrong sort of records for the locals, with England winning 3-1. The Ashes 2010/11 was the first time an Ashes series has been won with three of the Test claimed by innings margins. It was also the first time England had notched up totals of 500-plus four times in a series. Here are some of the talking points that will help decide this series.

BACK FACTOR Cook and Pietersen sat out the first tour match at the WACA due to stiff backs, credited to the long flight, but it’s Aussie captain Clarke’s torso that is most worth worrying about. He didn’t seem phased as he notched up 88 on return for New South Wales, but his ability to stay on the park is of vital importance to Australia, for his batting and tactical nous.

PERSONNEL PROBLEM Many of the same players will be back in action this series (Shane Watson, Phil Hughes, Clarke, Brad Haddin, Steve Smith, Peter Siddle and Mitchell Johnson likely to come back, at the very least in Perth), although the official Aussie squad isn’t named until November 12. But the omissions for Australia are more notable than England’s. England no longer has Andrew Strauss or Paul Collingwood, but they still have Cook, Trott, Kevin Pietersen, Matt Prior, James Anderson, Graeme Swann and Chris Tremlett is likely back as well. Their losses hardly compare to Australia’s – Ricky Ponting and Michael Hussey haven’t been ably replaced.

The Gabba, Brisbane Nov 21-25 The Woollongabba ground is a green-top beauty for bowlers on day one but flattens out to reward the technically-gifted from day two onwards. Extra bounce for spin. 30

Adelaide Oval Dec 5-9 A first-time drop-in wicket brings some unpredictability to this beautiful place, but experts expect something for bat and ball, just like the usual Adelaide deck.

The WACA, Perth Dec 13-17 Duck! The quicks reign in Perth and Nathan Lyon could make way for a fourth seamer for Australia. Not as lethal as it once was but still nothing like the English have.

The MCG, Melbourne December 26-30 The variable bounce late in the Test tends to be the worry for batsmen here, but it’s essentially the ideal balance for bat and ball. Boxing Day piss-up add to the hostile vibe.

The SCG, Sydney Jan 3-7 The one turner that could really aid Graeme Swann comes last in the series. It’s still a good batting deck during the middle days, but gone are the days of mammoth totals.

Photos: Getty

GROUND CONTROL: Guide to the Ashes 2013/14 venues

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Destroyer: Mitchell Johnson could return in Perth, or even before Familiar: England’s Alastair Cook, Graeme Swann and James Anderson celebrate their last Oz win

WHAT HAPPENED LAST TIME IN AUSTRALIA Cook smacks a boundary BFG TRIO It’s not story time but England’s Big Fast-bowling Giants – Steve Finn, Chris Tremlett and Boyd Rankin, all over six foot seven inches. There’s only really room for only one of them in the Test team, unless an injury hits James Anderson or Stuart Broad, but it gives a clear message of their intentions. Darren Lehmann’s asked for bouncy wickets, but that could backfire.

OLD SMOKY George Bailey’s been scoring runs at will in India and doing a bang-up job as captain too – selector John Inverarity has said he wasn’t picked for Australia A because, “The general feeling is we thought George has gone past that.” If there’s a smoky to appear in this series, despite his ordinary red ball record, it could be the 31-year-old Tasmanian.

HISTORY BOYS No Australia side has had such low expectations going into a home Ashes and no England side’s been more fancied since Kerry Packer’s World Series cricket gutted Australia of most their best players in the late-Seventies. No pressure then. ❚

THE URN: HEAD-TO-HEAD TOTAL ASHES MATCHES • Won by Australia 123 • Won by England 103 • Draws 89

TOTAL ASHES SERIES RESULTS • Australia Wins 31, Losses 31 • England Won 31, Lost 31 • Draws 5

1st Test Brisbane: DRAW AS GOOD AS A WIN England were getting pumped after the first innings of 260 was eclipsed by Australia’s 481, including big hundreds to Michael Hussey and Brad Haddin. But Alastair Cook saved the match with his 235, aided by Andrew Strauss’s 110 and Jonathan Trott’s 135 not out – they declared 517-1 and the deficit was too great. 2nd Test Adelaide: ENGLAND TAKE CONTROL England picked up where Brisbane ended with the top order scoring runs at will. They bowled out Australia for 245, with James Anderson taking four wickets, and went on to smash 620-5. The Aussies managed just 304 in the second innings, with Swann the destroyer with five-for. An innings and 71 run win for England. 3rd Test Perth: JOHNSON DOMINATES A lively WACA deck dictated play here. Australia set a low 268 with Mitchell Johnson top scoring with 62. He then ripped through the English batsmen with six wickets as they reached just 187. Another scratchy innings for Australia with 309 thanks to Shane Watson’s 95 and Michael Hussey’s 116 as Chris Tremlett took five for England. Ryan Harris’s six and Johnson’s three wickets saw England rolled for 123. Australia won by 267 runs. 4th Test Melbourne: AUSTRALIA CAPITULATE England batted second to score a more-than solid 513, with Trott in the runs with 168. It was enough to cancel out Australia’s shocking 98 and 258 as England won by an innings and 157 runs. This gave England an unbeatable 2–1 lead and the Ashes. 5th Test Sydney: SALT INTO THE WOUND It didn’t get any better for Australia, as England capped off the series with an innings and 83 run victory. England smashed 644, their highest innings total since 1938, with Cook scoring 189 and Bell and Prior also getting tonnes. TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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SPORTVIEW TNT puts the world to rights COMMENT: MICHAEL GADD michael.gadd@tntmagazine.com

Next stop: roads on the Nullarbor Plain area about as good as the recent ODI pitches in India

If 350 is the new 280, 290 or 300, it’s curtains for ODI

Even MS Dhoni thinks regular monster run chases are ridiculous Even after his side had executed another 350-plus run chase, and having played his own part in it, India captain MS Dhoni feared for the future of one-day cricket. There was a time, not that long ago, when 250 runs was pretty damn good. And indeed, some might think the fireworks that come with sides chasing down 350 runs is a good thing, but it’s really the death march for the one-day game. The day 50 overs gets played like 20 overs, the fast food version of the game takes over. That’s clearly what the BCCI want, hence the bowler-hating roads they kept serving up in India for the seven-match series with Australia. Of course the length of the series is ridiculous in itself, but you have to be suspicious when a nation pumping so much money into T20 presents the top two ODI nations in the world with pitches that aren’t just standard batting road, but the Nullarbor Plain. Cricket is a sport of batting, bowling and fielding, with the skill and tactics and nuance in all of those disciplines combined being what makes the sport great. What India is serving up isn’t cricket, it’s glorified batting demonstrations where bowling machines might as well be used and fielding practice is mostly for the crowd-catching endless sixes. Take nothing away from the likes of Virat Kohli and George Bailey, who are amassing runs where others struggle, but when Dhoni speaks against something so in favour of immense skills, it’s worth listening. “I’m not sure where it’s going but if we are chasing like this, it is not going to be good for the long-term health of the game,” he said after India sent the series into a decider. “Only seeing boundaries and sixes for seven hours? The bowlers actually feel it will be better off to put a bowling machine there. I honestly don’t know what is a good performance now by a bowler.” He might not get the chance to work it out. Agree or disagree? Is there still a place for the 50-over game? Tweet us @tnt_downunder

QUADE’S BETTER, BUT NOT WORTHY Ewen McKenzie went on the front foot when he gave former bad boy Quade Cooper the Wallabies vice-captaincy, saying outsiders don’t know him like he and his teammates do. That’s true, but we do know he’s the sort of guy who will slag off the coach and set-up as toxic and put an entire code on the back-foot. We do know he’s the sort of guy who flirts with the cash that comes with a high-profile code switch. Cooper is a supremely talented player, but reliability, calm

“

Cooper got rewarded before he’d earned it

”

under pressure and the trait to think of the team and others before himself don’t jump out on his CV. New skipper Ben Mowen is that sort of guy. As is half his team, all overlooked for the player rewarded for being on good behaviour well before he earned it.

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Photos: Getty, SATC, Thinkstock, Andrew Westbrook

IMAGE OF THE WEEK

BOTTOMS UP! Japanese Shrine Parishioners wait to pull their team Damjiri (weighing up to two tonnes) at the Autumn Harvest Festival.

INSIDE

BEAUTIFUL SOUTH

/40

We kickstart our South Australia month with this massive triple feature on the state as a whole, roadtripping north and Adelaide. 34

IT’S SHOWTIME! /55

THE JUNGLE IS MASSIVE /64

Learn everything you need to know about TNT’s massive Travel Show, what you’ll find there and why it will save you a load of cash.

We dodge piranhas, tree boas and psychedelic berries when we head to Brazil for a five-day voyage into the Amazon.

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WEEKLY WINNER MILES AWAY: Anna Keck, 22, Germany JAN SAYS: “A winter stroll along Sunshine Beach in Geraldton, Western Australia. My friend and I were roadtripping up the west coast.” WE SAY: “Sure, in this particular photograph Sunshine Beach might not exactly be living up to its name, but that doesn’t mean this photo isn’t worth printing! It’s got a rugged, grey kind of quality to it, not necessarily postcardy, but impressive none the less. The sky and sea both look to be the same, almost gunbarrel blue, grey colour and the footsteps of the people in the background add a good focal point. Thanks, Anna!”

HOT TIPS: Use a tripod Anything can be used as a tripod. If you are photographing in low light situations such as sunrises, sunsets and at night, get yourself a sturdy, but lightweight tripod. This will allow you to do longer exposures and create some awesome visual effects with the camera. If travelling with a tripod is unappealing, remember that anything can be use as a tripod from a stack of books to simply putting the camera on the ground and propping it so it won’t fall over. As long as the camera is perfectly still, you can get a great result. Tips by ocean photographer, Joel Coleman See saltmotion.com

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Send high-res (300 dpi) jpegs with name, age, nationality and a description to: hugh@tntdownunder.com. Photos are judged by the TNT team at their own discretion. Photos will also be placed on TNT’s Facebook page. For terms and conditions, see tntdownunder.com. Fortnightly winner Anna wins a free night’s stay at the award-winning Sydney Central YHA (yha.com.au). The monthly winner gets three days’ campervan hire from Mighty Campers Australia (mightycampers.com.au)

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Check out TNT online for the latest news, gossip, gigs, bizarre headlines and awesome features

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TRAVELLING TED Do you dream of visiting Tokyo but simply can’t afford it? Well your teddy probably can. For around $50, Japanese holiday company Unagi Travel is offering to whisk your stuffed mate away to Tokyo, to be taken on a whistlestop tour of the city. Your cuddly toy will see sights such as Shibuya, historic Asakusa and Tokyo Tower. A tour of the country’s onsens, or hot springs, is also being advertised. You will be able to enjoy your toy’s travels too, as the company will send you photos of him/her enjoying their trip. Of course they also promise to deliver them safe and sound back to your arms, where they can then tell you all about it...

Photo: Thinkstock

MI CASA ES SU CASA

The Casa San Augustin in Colombia has been revealed as the most popular new hotel in the world according to TripAdvisor ratings. The hotel review website has released its inaugural list for the world and Europe’s new hotels most highly rated by guests. Kura Design Villas Uvita in Costa Rica came second on the global list, while Taj Palace Marrakech in Morocco was given bronze. The most popular new hotel in Europe is the Kempinski Hotel Cathedral Square, in Vilnius, Lithuania, while London’s Ampersand Hotel took second, with Das Stue, Berlin, Germany, in third.

RISKY BUSINESS The Aussie government has issued a warning against travelling to Mombasa amid fears of attacks on tourist spots, including bars, in the wake of the Kenyan mall travesty. “Extremists may be planning attacks on nightclubs and other places frequented by foreigners along Malindi Road in Mombasa,” said the alert. It did not say which group might be involved. However, a spokesman for Uhuru Kenyatta, the Kenyan President, told Reuters that visitors to the coastal city were safe, and described the warning as “unnecessary and uncalled for”.

CHART-TOPPERS In PR-driven top 10 list news, Lonely Planet has released the 2014 edition of its annual Best in Travel book, causing local papers around the world to celebrate their high-flying sights whose turn it is to rule supreme. Brazil, unsurprisingly, was named the number one country to visit next year, followed by, er, Antarctica and Scotland. Shout out to Belgium in eighth. For best regions, Australia’s Kimberley was in second, behind India’s Sikkim, but ahead of Yorkshire, in third. Adelaide (9th) and Auckland (10th) were the only Down Under cities to make it into their top 10. .

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Escape the crowds: (clockwise) the stunning, salty Lake Hart; driving in the Flinders Ranges; an echidna; the Barossa Valley; cage diving with great white sharks; real outback cowboys

South of the border Often left off the ‘must-visit’ list by adrenalin-fuelled, party-hungry backpackers, South Australia is a somewhat forgotten land. But look a little closer at Australia’s middle child and you’ll discover the quiet kid has some tricks up its sleeve. Hell, we’d go so far as to say it’s the country’s most under-rated state. Think South Australia is boring? Think again. Indeed, we’d argue that some of the most exciting stuff you can find Down Under is lurking south of the border, plus at a cheaper price than in most of the country. For starters, if you want to interact with the Aussie wildlife, you’d struggle to find anywhere better. Ideal Adelaide getaway Kangaroo Island is home to far more than old Skippy. It’s basically one giant open-planned zoo where 40

you’ll get to walk amongst seals, crawl after echidnas and no doubt spot a koala in the wild. If that’s not enough, go for a dip with dolphins off Glenelg or, better yet, meet the very cool sea lions off the Eyre Peninsula. Head along to tuna fishing capital Port Lincoln and brave jumping in a cage to meet Jaws, or get thrown in a tank full of big, speedy tuna – one of the more unusual, and surprisingly unnerving experiences you’re likely to have in Oz. But it’s not just about the creatures. The land of the crow eaters (as South Australians are known) does a couple of other things as well as anywhere we know. One of those is food and wine – the Barossa produces arguably the best grape grog in Australia, while Adelaide is paradise for foodies on

a budget (they’ve moved beyond crows). The other string in the bow of Australia’s driest state is epic, jaw to the floor, pass-the-camera now scenery. There’s surreal, white cracked-earth salt lakes, deafening blue skies and horizon-to-horizon outback full of dusty cowboys and strange lizards. Oh, and the small matter of 3,800km of coastline. Surfers won’t be bored. Of course, trying to find time to see all these things might be tricky, as arts-mad Adelaide seems to be putting on a festival just about every week of the year. But, hey, we know your diary probably isn’t too crammed right now, so put the goon to one side for a moment, resist simply following the crowds for a bit and get cracking with our top 26 reasons for visiting the Festival State.

Photos: SATC, John Sones, Peter Fisher, Calypso Star Charters, Matt Nettheim, Thinkstock

With incredible wildlife, underground towns, hip-swinging festivals and roadtrip heaven, SA’s come out to play

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Photos: SATC, John Sones, Peter Fisher, Calypso Star Charters, Matt Nettheim, Thinkstock

WILPENA POUND

BIRDSVILLE TRACK

You can’t come to SA and not visit the spectacular Flinders Ranges. And you certainly can’t come to the ranges without stopping off at majestic Wilpena Pound for a spot of bushwalking and wildlife spotting.

A fair dinkum outback roadtrip experience. The 520km track takes you through some of the harshest, driest land in the world, so be a good boy scout and be prepared.

Sit back and enjoy the outback scenery between Alice Springs and Adelaide on iconic train The Ghan. Or, head to Perth or Sydney on the Indian Pacific.

GOING UNDERGROUND Up, up and away: the leg burning Little Sahara climb before sandboarding on Kangaroo Island

If you’ve ever wanted to know what life would be like as a Womble, stay overnight in Coober Pedy, where around half the population live underground to avoid the extreme summer heat. The other half must have very big fans.

SHARK! If you’re brave (or foolish) enough to want to jump into a cage and pull faces at great whites, Port Lincoln is the place to visit. It’s where they filmed the real sharks in the original Jaws movie.

KANGAROO ISLAND Like a zoo with no fences. It’s unlikely you’ll see as much wildlife in one place anywhere else in Oz. Plus some gorgeous beaches and the Remarkables (rocks).

UNDER THE STARS Grab a swag, head out of town and spend an outback night with the Milky Way.

WOMADELAIDE This extravaganza of world music is held in Adelaide every March. Enjoy music, food, and people from around the globe.

THE DOGFENCE Stretching several thousand kilometres, from WA to Queensland, the easiest place to get a snap of this great north/south divide is at Coober Pedy.

VISIT IRON KNOB There’s nothing particularly special about this little town – the name just makes us giggle like schoolgirls.

•

TASTE A PIE FLOATER An official icon of the state, a floater is a meat pie covered in ketchup and left to fend for itself in a sea of thick pea soup. No comment. While you’re at it, though, make sure you wash it down with top Aussie tipple, and local brew, Coopers Ale.

DESERTED BEACHES Head south from Adelaide towards the Fleurieu Peninsula. Interspaced between the popular holiday beaches are glorious stretches of golden sand all for you.

Photos: SATC, WOMADelaide, Matt Netthiem

KEEP IT RAIL

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SALT LAKES

ADELAIDE FRINGE FESTIVAL

SPIT OR SWALLOW

These massive expanses of blinding white salt are a real outback icon. Lake Eyre is the biggest and most impressive, but its little brother Lake Hart is conveniently situated next to the Stuart Highway.

Second only to Edinburgh in the world of fringe festivals, Adelaide’s February event celebrates all innovation in the arts, and if that’s your bag, this is an event not to be missed.

This place has got winegrowing regions around every corner; the Barossa Valley, the Clare Valley and McLaren Vale are only three of the most famous. Plus wine in the Adelaide pubs is as cheap as chips. Gerrin.

TUNA TOSSING

WHALE WATCHING

The world championships of this noble sport are held every January in Port Lincoln as part of the Tunarama festival. One that has to be seen to be believed. While there, try out the tuna swimming as well – one of the strangest animal experiences Down Under.

Southern rights plough the waters of the Great Australian Bight every winter, and are a truly majestic sight. As is the Bight itself, all 60ft limestone cliffs running adjacent to the Nullarbor.

GO ON THE OPAL

CAVE EXPLORING Playtime: meeting the Eyre Peninsula’s friendly sea lions

BE STUNNED BY THE BLUE LAKE A volcanic crater in Mt Gambier filled with the bluest water you could possible imagine (in summer anyway, it gets a bit grey in winter).

CRUISE THE MURRAY

ABORIGINAL CULTURE

Take a leisurely cruise on a Mississippi-style paddle steamer and soak up the laidback atmosphere.

There are plenty of places around the state to absorb the culture of Australia’s native people, especially in the Flinders Ranges and the outback. But for easy accessibility, try the South Australia Museum or the cultural institute, Tandanya, which has galleries and arts and crafts workshops.

RIDE THE TRAM Ride the Glenelg tram The only tram left in the state, this piece of history has the added bonus of terminating right by Glenelg Beach.

DRIVE THE NULLARBOR Arguably the greatest roadtrip in Australia. With a surprising amount of great wildlife interactions.

The majority of the world’s opals are mined around Coober Pedy and Andamooka, so they’re the best places to find bargain gems. If you’re feeling lucky you could have a quick noodle yourself – just make sure it’s in one of the designated areas.

Think that’s Beer O’Clock

SWIM WITH DOLPHINS

THE NUDE OLYMPICS

It must be tough being a dolphin – everyone wants a piece. In Adelaide you can get your Flipper action on a cruise from Port Adelaide or swim with them at Glenelg.

Held every summer on Maslins Beach, 40km south of Adelaide. Watch wobbly-fleshed folk partake in events such as the three-legged race (no, that’s not what you think...) and frisbee throwing.

Photos: SATC, Caroline Fisher, John Somes

The Nullarbor Plain conceals some spectacular underground action, but unless you’re a cave diver they’re pretty much offlimits. More accessible are the World Heritagelisted Narcoorte Caves.

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Beautiful South: (clockwise) Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges; wine tasting in the Barossa; outback road signs; a red-barred dragon

Adelaide to the Flinders SOUTH AUSTRALIA

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Life below the southern skies From those tasty, tasty grapes, to the endless epic expanses of outback and ancient mountains, SA’s the state that keeps giving WORDS HUGH RADOJEV

In a corner of the Grace Emily Hotel, somewhere between the front bar and the beer garden, four young men in tight black jeans and carefully groomed facial hair are moving amplifiers into place and tuning their guitars. A few punters stand around, sipping pots of local beers (pots, pints and schooners – I’m struggling with the differentials) and glasses of wine, patiently waiting. You wouldn’t say the anticipation in the air is palpable, but the house music isn’t exactly filling in the gaps between conversation quite as well as it should be and a little background music would be appreciated. It’s Saturday night in Adelaide and I’m trying to remember 14 new names and faces – besides, small talk isn’t really a strong suit of mine. There are already a few rumours flying around amongst my new tour group that we’re all heading out on the town proper. Tull (the easiest name to remember because, well, he’s the only Tull I’ve ever met) and a couple of returning Adelaide locals are trying to drum up a bit of support to hit a club or two further into town. “C’mon, mate,” Tull says to me over a pot of South Australia’s finest (Coopers, of course). “It’ll be a bit of fun, we’ll all get to know each other!” “I don’t know about it, to be honest,” I say, looking down into my beer. I feel like such a wet blanket. “We’ve got to get up at, like, five tomorrow morning.” “Man up, buddy. You can just sleep on the bus, anyway!” The band – The Rodents, according to their drum skin anyway – kick into their first song and it provides the distraction I need to slip quietly out of the Grace Emily and down the street. I’ve got an important date with a surprisingly comfortable YHA dorm room bottom bunk.

that I had spotted in the distance is in fact a church. What a genius I am… Clark, our tour guide, stands up and tells us that we’ll

“

I don’t sip it so much as chug the whole thing down in one gulp

”

be having a personal tour around the Seven Hills cellar, visitors centre, vineyards and then a wine tasting. It’s hard not to laugh when some of the slightly pale faced and bleary eyed amongst the group groan collectively at this last piece of information. A lovely lady escorts us down into the enormous wine cellars beneath the winery itself. The cellar is deep underground and is full of huge barrels stacked side by side ››

Photos: SATC, Thinkstock

On a wine and a prayer From a distance, the oldest winery in the Clare Valley looks more like a church than it does anything else. There’s a couple of pretty good reasons for this; one being that Seven Hills Winery was established in 1851 by a group of Jesuits who had settled in the area to plant vines and produce sacramental wine, the other being the fact that the church–like building

Flying high over the vines TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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“Yes, I definitely like it enough to try a second glass...” in rows. We all snap some photos; one or two of the group lie underneath the barrel’s big taps and pretend to drink from them. Queue giggles. It’s not surprising that – with its historically close and consistent association with Jesuit missionaries – Seven Hills Winery has a very calm, even spiritual feel to it. I peel off from the group and wander through rows of Riesling grape trestles by myself for a little bit, feeling rather at peace with the universe. I could murder a glass of something though. It must be said that the Jesuits definitely know their way around a grape. The wine tasting is easily my favourite bit of the tour. For some of last night’s clubbers however, the same cannot be said.

“

The pub’s locals look at you like you’re off a different planet, but they’re friendly

”

The first glass put in front of me is a lovely, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. I don’t sip it so much as chug the thing down in one gulp. “You know, we’ve got spit buckets there for you, if you need it,” our winery guide says, looking at me over her glasses. “It’s okay, love. I’d hate to waste any of it.” 50

I’m probably going to Hell. The Flinders Ranges National Park has long been a source of inspiration for painters of landscapes. I unfortunately am not possessed of such gifts – the ability to capture for posterity the beauty of places with paint on canvas – so I must try and use my words.

Goats in the bush “Jesus,” says Tim, who’s sat next to me. “This place is a bit of alright, isn’t it?” I couldn’t have put it better myself. We’re driving towards Mount Remarkable in the heart of the National Parklands, with beautiful, gradually rising wooded slopes on either side of us. Every now and then someone squeals or yells out in delight when they spot wallabies, kangaroos and even a few emus frolicking on either side of the road. As the sun begins to dip below the rolling ranges around us, we pull up at a campsite deep in the eucalypts and file off the bus. The orange light of the setting sun diffuses in glittering streaks through the trees and the air is heavily scented with the smell of slight damp earth, bark and, of course, eucalypt oil. It’s definitely a good place to be if you’ve got a blocked nose. We were supposed to hike up to the top of a hilly spur which is bizarrely called the Dutchman’s Stump – don’t ask – but, due to time restrictions, Doc and Clarky decide to take us up to the top of Warren Gorge instead. We set of in single file on the loose, shale path. The Flinders Ranges are hundreds of millions of years old and have been exposed to so much wind and water erosion in that time that the insides of these hills,

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Goats are fond of surprising travellers

The open road to Flinders the lime and sandstone beneath them, have been exposed to the elements and have broken up. It makes for a fairly interesting walking surface. Suddenly and without warning a collection of scrubby bushes and bent trees away to my right, about 10 or 15 metres below me, begins to quiver and shake. The line stops, excitedly poised with our cameras ready to capture the emergence of some beautiful, unique Australian marsupial. Nope. A herd of maybe eight or nine massive goats come trotting out of the scrub. “Sorry, folks,” says Clark, laughing. “For every one rock wallaby or wombat you get up here there are probably 100 goats.” We scrabble up the last of the uneven path, to the top of Warren Gorge and, after what seems like an age, we emerge at the top. We’re met by a view of the last rays of the setting sun dipping below another distant line of hills across the gorge. Spectacular doesn’t even begin to describe it. If only I’d bought my box of oil pants and an easel.

Getting a little bit Quorny “Any of you’se blokes ev’r been to Port Pirie?” A large, rather sweaty road train driver asks. His shirt is buttoned down to about where his beer belly begins (he does spend most of his time sitting down after all) and you could count the teeth in his head on one hand with enough fingers left over to pick up a pen. We’re at the Criterion, one of four pubs in the quaint, South Australian town of Quorn, on the edge of the Flinders Ranges NP. It’s a weeknight, about eight or nine in the evening. While it’s technically a school night, we’re all on

Okay, maybe it wasn’t quite like this... holiday so we’ve head out on the town and now I’m getting to meet some of the colourful local characters. Jess, a lovely Irish lady in my group has made herself this new friend and has dragged me into the conversation, presumably so she can extricate herself from Port Pirie’s attention. “ Ah, no,” I respond, smiling nervously. “Pirie, what, like the chicken?” My new mate doesn’t quite get it; I suppose they don’t have a Nando’s in Port Pirie. The arrival of a bunch of fast-talking city slickers in ‘trendy’ jeans, t-shirts and skirts has driven the majority of locals out onto the stoop out front, where they sit drinking and smoking in their cowboy hats and work boots. Not Old Mate though, something about Jess has definitely sparked his interest. ‘Ya should definitely try’n get there, mates. It’s a ripper of a spot!” With this helpful bit of tourist information in mind, I return to my lukewarm Coopers stout and, when Jess tries to leave, I grab her arm and make her drag me away too. There’s something incredible about drinking in an outback pub though. Even while the locals look at you like you’ve just come down off of another planet, they’re all pretty friendly and I’ve rarely seen a landlord look so delighted at the prospect of me ordering a beer as John, the Criterion’s owner does. The night soon gets fairly out of hand; one of the group somehow sweet-talks John into letting them come behind the bar, the felt on the pool table gets ‘inexplicably’ ripped (I’m not very good at pool either) and, as I’m stumbling home, I walk head first into a telegraph pole while looking up at the stars. The stars in outback South Australia are unbelievably beautiful. We’re off to summit Wilpena Pound tomorrow… My stomach is churning slightly at the thought. ❚ TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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TRAVELWEEKENDER

Lofty pursuits This is Adelaide in 48 hours WORDS LEIGH LIVINGSTONE

DAY 1 x Don't believe the other state capitals, Adelaide isn't the sleepy town they'll have you believe. It's exciting and varied, and it's not just about wine regions. There are so many fun things to see and do that you'll have trouble packing it all into just one weekend. But let's give it a shot. 10:00 Start your day off with a big pile of cute at the Adelaide Zoo (adelaidezoo.com.au) admission is $31.50. Morning is the best time to visit Wang Wang and Funi, the resident giant pandas. Once they’ve made your acquaintance, say a quick hello to the rest of the animal gang, you don’t want to be rude do you? 13:00 Then take a scenic roadtrip to the German-influenced town of Hahndorf, a 30-minute drive outside of the city for some lunch. The famous Hahndorf Inn (hahndorfinn. com.au) is like taking a trip within a trip, they serve up Deutschland-inspired grub such as kranskys, strudel, and more wurst than you could poke a sausage at. 16:00 Back in the city, work off those super tasty steins by pumping your legs to power a paddleboat along the Torrens River. Captain Jolleys (elderparkcafe.com) at Elder Park will hire you a single paddleboat for half an hour ($15), with a discount if you get all your mates out with you. 18:00 Now is the perfect time for a post-paddle beverage. As evening descends head over to the famous Rundle Street (rundlestreet.com.au) in Adelaide's east end district. There are a tonne of drinking and dining options but keep the international feel of the day going by starting at

the Belgian Beer Cafe. When the tummy starts to rumble, stop in at The Stag, reputably "Adelaide's best steak pub". The Jucy Lucy burger will have your stomach doing backflips. 21:00 Once the stomach is lined take a wander further down Rundle Street to The Exeter Hotel (theexeter.com.au). They have a beer garden and live band on every night. Kick your heels up and rock the night away because it's just a hop, skip and a jump over to the Botanic Park to your accommodation when you're done. Get some much needed rest at Minima Hotel (majestichotels.com.au) because it's another big day tomorrow. DAY 2 9:00 Wake up with a brisk hike up to the Mt Lofty Summit (mtloftysummit.com), 20 minutes southeast of Adelaide and enjoy sweeping views of the city with your morning coffee. You can’t go past the Summit Big Breakfast with bacon, chipolatas and fresh sourdough bread ($16.50) from the Summit Café to kick start your day. 12:00 Time for a bit of adventure now that you're feeling refreshed. In the nearby township of Gawler take a scenic ride in a genuine ex-Airforce warbird. Experience some serious G-force and acrobatics in the classic supercharged military plane for a full 40 minutes. Grab a voucher from Red Balloon (redballoon.com.au) it isn't cheap but it's worth it and if you can keep your eyes open there are great views over Adelaide's surrounds. 14:00 It's a good thing you got the plane out of the way before lunch because you're going to want to hold on to this

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The choices are endless

one. Spend the afternoon in the seaside area of Glenelg, it's ideal for a big long Sunday drinking session. There are a heap of bars (glenelgpier.com.au) to choose from along the waterfront promenade and they all sell food, so why not start at one end and stroll slowly? Enjoy the use of your feet now that you're on solid ground again. 17:00 When you've well and truly settled your stomach get out on the ocean with Temptation Sailing (glenelgsa. com.au). The high performance catamaran named, you guessed it, Temptation, takes cruisers out on the ocean for an unforgettable twilight experience. Sip champagne as the sun goes down over the ocean and unwind with some new friends while spotting dolphins in the sea. 19:30 Back on dry land, it's time to rev the engine again and head back to Rundle Street. South Australia is famous for wine regions such as the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Flinders Ranges and Coonawarra so no trip to Adelaide is complete without sampling some of their best. The Universal Wine Bar (rundlestreet.com.au) has a selection of over 250 wines from the area and around the world, so take your palate on a South Australian journey. 21:00 When you've had your fill of wine bouquets and aroma sniffing, grab a bite to eat before you leave Rundle Street to line that stomach and rock on over to the Grace Emily Hotel (graceemilyhotel.com.au). Say farewell to Adelaide in the style you've become accustomed to, with live music and good beer on tap.

Glenelg's charming seaside

Pose with a panda TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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TRAVELSHOW2013

TNT TRAVEL SHOW NOVEMBER 2013

TNT Magazine is set to launch its first ever Australian travel show, having reached our 11th successive year of the same event in the United Kingdom. The show will boast over 20 travel stands offering huge discounts with up to 40% off for some products. The show will also have huge competitions with up to $10,000 of prizes, a surf machine, live music and licensed bars. Registration for the event is free for the first 3,000 to preregister. Get registered NOW for our one-day TNT Travel Show held at Beach Palace Hotel, Coogee, Sydney, on November 10, 2013. At the TNT Travel Show, there’s everything you need to get inspired for your next adventure. Plan a holiday and take advantage of amazing deals on travel in the Australia and New Zealand. Our line-up of renowned exhibitors

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EXHIBITORLIST ADVENTURE TOURS AUSTRALIA

On the flip-side of this relaxed pace are adventure options from high adrenaline to easy Opening a bank account, exploration, all within easy reach of the heart of town. transferring With a year-round warm and money, applying for a visa, claiming a sunny climate, Noosa is the tax refund or shipping goods ideal place to kick back and overseas: these are just a few escape from it all! of the services offered by 1st backpacknoosa.com.au Contact. We take care of the admin, leaving you free to BASE BACKPACKERS focus on the fun stuff! At Base we’re all about the adventuretours.com.au traveller, Base hostels are BACKPACK NOOSAS If it’s adventure located throughout Australia and fun you’re & New Zealand, specially designed for the modern day seeking in global traveller, with state a beautiful, of the art facilities, superior laidback comfort, security and friendly atmosphere surrounded by nature, make sure you spend services, Base Backpackers are a revolution in beds, bars time in Noosa. and travel experience. Base Noosa is a backpackers haven with clean, funky, well offer dorms, doubles, twins, priced backpacker resorts and female only dorms called the sanctuary, with and without hostels and when it’s time to en-suite bathrooms. party there’s plenty of nightIf it’s work you’re looking life with many backpacker for, you’ve come to the right restaurants, bars and live place, Sydney, Brisbane, music. With beautiful beaches, lush Melbourne, Cairns, Darwin and Perth all have on site green hinterland, stunning coastal national park, pristine work desks, with staff to help you find a job so that you can river and a lively calendar of save some money and extend events – Noosa is the perfect your travels, in NZ we have spot to chill out, get active a work desk in the centrally or settle a while with work located Base Auckland. Keen in-season. for a party, why not head up Noosa, from an Aboriginal to the Full Moon Party at Base word meaning ‘place of on Magnetic Island, located many trees’, is Queensland’s right on the beach with first UNESCO Biosphere the top domestic DJ’s and Reserve, meaning it’s special international acts. If you’re a on a global scale. Noosa backpacker, let us look after covers about 875 km2 - in you, we’re the specialists. this compact space, 35% is protected land, including stayatbase.com national and state parks, or natural features like lakes and GOLD COAST TOURISM streams. Living in Noosa are Gold Coast almost half of all Australia’s Tourism bird species, over 1300 plant (GCT) is the species, more than 700 types region’s of native animals and 60 peak strategic marketing distinct ecosystems. authority, representing a 58

diverse membership base of venues, accommodation, attractions, restaurants, event organisers, corporate activity planners, transport and service providers. The many contrasts of Australia’s Gold Coast unite to deliver every possible holiday experience you could desire in one friendly place. The Gold Coast is Famous for fun; a claim rightly justified by a city that allows visitors to enjoy unique holiday moments while creating life long memories connecting with friends and family. More than 300 days of sunshine each year inspires a diverse landscape of natural beauty where you can explore 70 kilometers of unspoilt coastline and beaches, plus 100,000 hectares of World Heritage rainforest. Australia’s sixth largest city invites you to dine in some of its 500 restaurants and cafes, enjoy the southern hemisphere’s largest range of attractions and activities, and discover rich landscapes just 20 minutes drive from the centre of the city. VisitGoldCoast.com

HOSTELZOO.COM Hostelzoo is the world’s largest marketplace for hostels. We offer a free search and comparison tool, allowing budget travellers to book the right hostel at the best price. Every hostel that is available to book online is listed on our site. We utilise the booking engines Hostelworld, Hostelbookers, HostelsClub and Gomio to provide the most comprehensive listings available. hostelzoo.com

MOJOSURF LEARN TO SURF with Mojosurf while having the time of your life at the most beautiful beaches in Australia. From the moment you start your Mojo adventure you’ll see the passion and enthusiasm that we have for the surf and beach culture. Your Mojo adventure is sure to be the highlight of your time in Australia. Whether it’s a 3 hour surf lesson or a 3 month course you’ll experience everything that makes Mojosurf epic! The Ultimate Lifestyle - Immerse yourself in the ultimate Aussie surf lifestyle experience. Surf, relax, party and join in on the many other activities we offer! Epic Locations - Remote, pristine and uncrowded beaches will be the backdrop as you experience the most celebrated lifestyle on the planet! Amazing People - At Mojosurf we love to celebrate! Share the experience around the campfire or on the beach with new like-minded friends from all around the world. You will of course get to hang out with the crazy crew that make up the Mojo family Learn to Surf Specialists - With years of experience Mojosurf has superior safe instructional techniques and equipment to assist all levels of surfers from beginner to intermediate all while having fun! mojosurf.com

MULGAS ADVENTURES & ANNIE’S PLACE BACKPACKERS Mulgas Adventures

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is the most fun & affordable Uluru tour around! A 3 day camping tour that visits Uluru, Kings Canyon & Kata Tjuta plus more along the way. With all Aussie guides, great food (you’ll even try Camel & Kangaroo!), free bubbly at sunset and sleeping in swags under the stars this makes Mulgas the ultimate outback camping experience! Highlights include both the sunset & sunrise over Uluru, the full rim walk of Kings Canyon and the walk through the Valley of the Winds (Kata Tjuta.) Camp one night on a Cattle Station and another in Ayers Rock, enjoy amazing BBQ dinners, fun around the campfire and then sleeping under the outback sky! Enjoy the “real Australia” with Mulgas Adventures!

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Seeing double: Anand scans the jungle for signs of life

The Amazon

A sloth on the banks of the Rio Negro and, (left) a young villager makes cocktail sticks to sell, the meeting of the waters, and a berry used for face painting 64

Photos: Andrew Westbrook

BRAZIL

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Jungle fever Dodging piranhas, tree boas and psychedelic berries, we head to Brazil for a five-day voyage into the Amazon WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK

WHEN TO GO: The Amazon is a good year-round destination river’s edge like the writhing legs of The engine cuts out and we glide onwards, but you might want to avoid the some monstrous millipede. across the mirror of blackness. Shadowy rainy season months (Jan-May). trees loom above and below, while a thick It’s only 8pm and little more than a day However, then is best for seeing blanket of cloud is pulled tight overhead, since we left Manaus, a city of two million completing the perfect double image. birds and monkeys close up. people destined to play host to the World Floating forwards on our magic carpet, Whenever you go, expect rain. Cup next year, but already it feels like the meanwhile, we’re surrounded by sound. CURRENCY: $1 = 2.08 BRL witching hour a million miles from civilisation. Cicadas, bell-like frogs and a distant owl (Brazilian Real). Suddenly, a beam of light erupts from the are the most recognisable, but who knows STAY: Do it in style at the front of the canoe, transfixing my attention, what lies just inches from our fingertips as Hotel Tropical in Manaus as our guide Edi scans our surroundings we sit in our canoe, drifting through the (tropicalmanaus.com.br), where for life while clearing a path through the jungle after dark. a room for two costs from flooded trees. I’m in Brazil, deep within the Amazon AUD$167 per night. For an Every now and then the light pierces region, an area so superlative that even the excellent hostel option, complete the double black, revealing the unusual red simplest facts can be hard to comprehend. with rooftop terrace views, the tinge of the water. It’s caused, explains Edi, Home to the world’s biggest river system, Aussie-owned Hostel Manaus by the nutrients and iron that result from this is where you’ll find a fifth of the planet’s (hostelmanaus.com) has beds the endless decomposition of the sunken freshwater, an amount so massive that just a from AUD$14 a night. forest. He adds, with a chuckle, that it’s the single day’s flow would be enough to supply WHAT TO DO: A five-day ‘tea bag effect’. Right now, however, the all US households for half a year. A vital Amazon cruise on the Tucano, blood-coloured waters feel far more ominous component of the global ecosystem, this including guides and meals, costs and we warily keep our hands by our sides, epic waterway begins life in the Peruvian from AUD$1305 with Adventure as if ghostly arms might rise from the deep Andes, at an altitude higher than Everest’s Life (adventure-life.com). to drag us under. Wearing a wide-brimmed Base Camp. It then travels almost 7000km, SEE: visitbrasil.com hat and a waterproof poncho, Edi cuts a joining forces with its many tributaries as it dramatic silhouette, frequently sending the dissects 7m sq km of rainforest, a vast area home shadows running by swiping out with his machete. Whether he’s cutting our path through the narrow channel or fighting to more species of animal than anywhere else on Earth. back attackers from below remains unclear, but whichever It’s on the biggest of those tributaries, the Rio Negro, which I find myself now. Of Colombian birth, the Rio Negro, it is, Edi seems satisfied with the results and plunges us meaning literally Black River, may merely be an Amazon back into darkness. tributary, but it’s a giant in its own right. Indeed, with more Onwards we float like the world’s greatest ghost train, than 700 species of fish found in its waters and with its ducking under branches, steering by paddle and stopping banks sometimes stretching to an obese 25km apart, it’s little now and then in the pitch black, giving Edi the chance surprise the Rio Negro is the world’s largest black water river. to scan the trees while mimicking monkey and bird calls. With the water so still, it’s impossible to spot the difference Into the wild between up and down, real and reflection. It’s peaceful, Right now, however, having chugged our way upstream but spooky, the drips from passing branches regularly from bustling Amazon city Manaus on our traditional-styled sending shivers down our spines in the eerie darkness. riverboat, we’ve left the jungle highway and taken to At one point we catch the colours of a kingfisher taking to the skies in fright. Another time we double back with ›› canoes to explore the overgrown canals that sprawl from the TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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urgency, keen to avoid passing under a large Amazon tree boa, hanging casually from a branch. And often, lurking by the edge, are the red eyes of the caimans. After an hour or two of paddling, however, it’s time to give our nerves a rest and head back to the wood-panelled cabins of our riverboat, the Tucano, to call it a day. It’s only night two of our five-day Amazon cruise but the sights have already come thick and fast. The 10 of us had set off the afternoon before from Manaus, some 150km downstream, jumping onboard from the city’s home of old world glamour, the Hotel Tropical. Despite being from a more recent age than the grand, extravagant buildings found throughout the city centre, the Hotel Tropical is like a flashback to the glory days of Manaus, to a time when the hot and humid jungle city was the world’s leading producer of rubber and the money flowed as fast as the river on which the sticky stuff was shipped out on. Those days might now be long gone, but Manaus is still bustling. Indeed, you’d be hard-pushed to find a bigger port anywhere else in the world. Well, a bigger port that’s also 1500km from the coast, at least.

Fugly Flipper From Manaus we’d headed north-west against the current, swapping high rises for howler monkeys as we cruised to Mucura Lake. We’re then up at 5am the following morning to eagerly jump in the dugouts for first light. Still half asleep, the perfectly symmetrical reflections take on a more dreamy quality, topped off by our first sightings of the Amazon’s celebrated pink dolphins. Steeped in indigenous mythology (including a reputation for turning into dashing young men and impregnating otherwise virtuous young ladies), the dolphins are actually surprisingly ugly, looking more like one of my Pictionary attempts at a dolphin than their sleek, saltwater cousins. But seeing dolphins in this unlikely jungle setting is undoubtedly a treat, and soon we’re darting left and right, craning to get a view each time we hear a splash.

Later that day we get our first chance to step back onto solid ground. The diversity and potential danger on display is immediately astounding. “Don’t touch any trees,” our second guide Anand quickly warns, and it doesn’t take long to understand why. We’re soon wincing past trunks baring giant barbs, while Anand cautiously points out others with far more subtle deterrents – spikes so small they’d be like fibre glass in the skin. As if the point needed further emphasis, our grinning guide then gently taps a third tree with his machete. The movement immediately causes a battalion of army ants to swarm from their nest, as big and aggressive as giant wasps. Local boys in the area prove their manhood, we’re told, by donning a glove made of leaves, into which are then added 15 of the army ants, a single bite from which can cause a three-hour fever. I assure Anand, as he begins jokingly scavenging for leaves, that I’m content to remain a boy for the time being. Of course, not all of the jungle is designed to inflict pain. It soon becomes clear apparently half the drugs found in chemists begin life as berries, bark or batshit in the jungle before being pimped up in some pharmaceutical lab. Indeed, the resources on offer, if you know where to look, are astonishing. Within an hour I’m shown remedies for half a dozen diseases.

Piranha bait

Squirrel monkey 66

Thoroughly convinced I wouldn’t last a day in the jungle, we head back to the boat and spend another day cruising deeper into the Amazon, now and then passing villages and houseboats, waving at children and wondering how the lines of dripping laundry ever dry in this climate of either torrential rain or soaking humidity.

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Kassandra Miller

The Insider's guide Mouthful of piranha: still fancy a swim?

Regularly returning to the canoes, we spend endless hours scanning the trees for the countless array of birdlife and monkeys. A clear favourite are the sloths, which we spot with gleeful regularity. With faces fixed in a permanent grin and bodies slumped dopily into nooks in the trees, they’re undeniably the koalas of the jungle, and rank just as highly in the lovability stakes. A couple of mornings we again find ourselves on the water at the crack of dawn, only this time holding small wooden rods, with lumps of beef attached to the ends. We’re fishing for one of the Amazon’s most famous residents – piranhas. The toothy predators are clearly more clever than us, however, and the successes are few and far between, marked by the screams from our fellow fishermen each time a pair of snapping jaws is hauled inside the boat. Our five days almost up, we speed our way back to Manaus, now with the current on our side. Storming straight past the city, we make for the meeting of the waters, where the Rio Negro and Amazon join forces. These two mighty rivers, however, are most un-Brazilian, and continue together for 6km without mixing, with only the slightest hint of a flirt. The wallflower behaviour is made obvious by the colours, as the black lowlands water of the Rio Negro travels side-by-side with the lighter sediment-rich Andes water of the Amazon. The curvaceous separation of light and dark has become an iconic design across Brazil, so seeing its origin in nature is a light bulb moment, while also revealing how highly this vast nation regards its all-conquering Amazon. And indeed, for somewhere to experience the wonders of the wild on an epic scale, it’s hard to imagine anywhere better. ❚

Amazon regular Kassandra Miller is a trip planner for tour company Adventure Life. When’s the best time to visit the Amazon? There’s no bad time. For example, even the rainy season (Jan-May) has its advantages as that’s when most plants fruit and flower, meaning you’re more likely to see birds and monkeys right by the water. What are the advantages of staying on a boat? You can cover much more ‘ground’ on a boat. When you stay on land, you’re restricted to how far you can drive, boat or hike in one day. When you stay on a boat, you can travel a much greater area. Also, much of the wildlife revolves around water, so you are perfectly situated to see as much of it as possible. Can you swim in the river? You sure can! In most areas, it’s not dangerous. Your local guides can tell you if anything is amiss and if it’s not a good place to swim, but in general, swim away! What do you love most about the Amazon? It’s a place completely unhampered by modern life – its vastness and wildness can be overwhelming. It’s thrilling, a perfect place to escape the mundane everyday and immerse yourself in a different culture and ecosystem. Is there much else to do in Manaus? Sure is. Manaus was a thriving boomtown in the past, but fell into disrepair after the rubber barons left. There is an old opera house that has been refurbished as well as an interesting old town you can visit. I wouldn’t spend more than a day or two here though.

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Wilderness 4WD Adventures Top end tours 1800 808 288, wildernessadventures.com.au

Topdeck Tours covering all of Oz 1300 886 332, topdeck.travel

Wildlife Tours Tours around Victoria 1300 661 730, wildlifetours.com.au

RENTAL FIRMS Apollo Motorhomes 1800 777 779, apollocamper.com

Spaceships 1300 132 469, spaceshipsrentals.com.au

@tnt_downunder

TRANSPORT CO Greyhound Australia Buses around Australia. 13 20 30, greyhound.com.au Jetstar Airline. 131 538,

jetstar.com.au

Premier Transport Group Buses along the east coast. 13 34 10, premierms.com.au Qantas Airline. 13 13 13, qantas.com.au Regional Express Airline. 13 17 13, rex.com.au Spirit of Tasmania Ferries to Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, spiritoftasmania.com

Standbycars.com 1300 789 059, standbycars.com

Tiger Airways Airline. 03 9999 2888, tigerairways.com

Travellers Auto Barn 1800 674 374, travellers-autobarn.com.au

Redline Coaches For getting around Tasmania. 03 6336 1446, redlinecoaches.com.au

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickercampers.com

Virgin Australia Airline. 13 67 89, virginaustralia.com

With great fares every day! . . . why not travel PREMIER class! Climate control air-conditioning • Experienced Coach Captains • Panoramic glare free windows • Comfy reclining seats Onboard video entertainment • Washroom • State of the art safety features • Seat belts

10% off

waiting for! u o y e r a t a Wh

if you have a genuine backpacker’s card

• Flexible travel on a budget to suit you • One, three and six month PaSSeS available • Daily ServiceS from Melbourne to cairns

MElbOuRnE • SydnEy • byROn bay • GOld COaSt bRISbanE • aIRlIE bEaCh • MISSIOn bEaCh • CaIRnS

www.premierms.com.au or phone 13 13 34 34 10 10 www.premierms.com.au or ph 68

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SYDNEY STAY Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718 stayatbase.com

Taronga Zoo Mosman. zoo.nsw.gov.au

BOOK NOW!

Waves Surf School wavessurfschool.com.au

Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9281 6030 bighostel.com

SYDNEYMUSIC Hordern Pavillion playbillvenues.com

Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222 bouncehotel.com.au

Oxford Art Factory oxfordartfactory.com Sydney Opera House sydneyoperahouse.com

Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, easygobackpackers.com.au Eva’s Backpackers 6-8 Orwell Street Kings Cross 02 9358 2185, evasbackpackers.com.au City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333 cityresort.com.au Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks. 02 9261 1111 yha.com.au Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186 nomadshostels.com Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross. 02 8354 0488, boomerangbackpackers.com Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 dluxbudgethotel.com.au

The Annandale annandalehotel.com

FLEETWOOD MAC Hope Estate Winery. Sat, 16 Nov. Tickets from $60. Catch Mick, Stevie and the gang as they return Down Under to play among the Hunter Valley vines.

Hunter Valley

hopeestate.com.au

Coogee Beach House 171 Arden St. Coogee. 02 9665 1162, coogeebeachhouse.com Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, sydneybeachside.com.au Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee. 02 9315 7888, surfsidebackpackers.com.au Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418,yha.com.au Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly. 02 9977 3411 boardrider.com.au The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly. 1800 657 122, bunkhouse.com.au

Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills. 02 9261 1111

Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411 manlybackpackers.com.au

Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach. 02 9918 9709, avalonbeach.com.au

Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371 sydneyboardinghouse.com

Bondi Shores Level 1. 283 Bondi Road, Bondi bondishores.com.au

Wake Up! 509 Pitt St, CBD. 02 9288 7888, wakeup.com.au

Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street. Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, yha.com.au Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi. 02 9130 5063, lamrocklodge.com

Powerhouse Museum Darling Harbour. powerhousemuseum.com.au Skydive the Beach Wollongong. skydivethebeach.com Sydney Olympic Park Darling Harbour. sydneyolympicpark.nsw.gov.au Sydney Tower and Skytour 100 Market St, CBD. sydneyskytour.com.au Sydney Harbour Bridge The Rocks. bridgeclimb.com Sydney Aquarium Darling Harbour. sydneyaquarium.com.au Sydney Wildlife World Darling Harbour. sydneywildlifeworld.com.au

The Enmore enmoretheatre.com.au The Metro metrotheatre.com.au

BLUE MTNS Blue Mountains YHA 207 Katoomba St, Katoomba. 02 4782 1416, yha.com.au

CENTRAL COAST Newcastle Beach YHA 30 Pacific St, Newcastle. 02 4925 3544, yha.com.au Terrigal Beach YHA 9 Ocean View Dr, Terrigal. 02 4384 1919, yha.com.au The Entrance Backpackers 2/56 The Entrance Road, The Entrance, 2261 02 4334 5005 theentrancebackpackers.com Skydive Central Coast Warnervale. skydivethecentralcoast.com.au

BYRON BAY Backpackers Holiday Village 116 Jonson St 1800 350 388, byronbaybackpackers.com.au Backpackers Inn 29 Shirley St 1800 817 696 backpackersinnbyronbay.com.au Byron Bay Accom 02 6680 8666, byronbayaccom.net The Arts Factory 1 Skinners Shoot Rd. 02 6685 7709, nomadshostels.com Nomads Byron Bay Lawson Lane. 1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com Byron Bay YHA 7 Carlyle St. 1800 678 195 yha.com.au Skydive the Beach Byron Bay Kingsford Smith Park, Ballina 1800 302 005 skydivethebeachbyronbay.com

COFFS HARB Coffs Harbour YHA 51 Collingwood St. 02 6652 6462, yha.com.au Harbour City Holiday Park 123 Pacific Highway coffsholidaypark.com.au Hoey Moey Backpackers 80 Ocean Pde hoeymoey.com.au Solitary Islands Marine Resort North St, Wooli NSW 1462 1800 003 031 solitaryislandsresort.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

SYDNEY DO Manly Surf School Manly Beach. 02 9977 6977, manlysurfschool.com Maritime Museum Darling Harbour. anmm.gov.au

Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi. 02 9387 2162,

My Sydney Detour Unique city tours. mysydneydetour.com

Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee. 04 0817 6634, aegeancoogee.com.au

Oceanworld Manly West Esplanade. oceanworld.com.au

BIG HOSTEL Corner of Blackburn & Elizabeth Streets, CBD, Sydney. Beds from $30. After a massive 11 years on the Sydney CBD hostel scene, Big Hostel has had a huge makeover in 2013. With a lick of paint, new mattresses, lockers, carpeting and much more, Big Hostel is looking as good as new. It’s also achieved a green certification (yay, environment). The boutique hostel is even kitted out with a rooftop garden, where you can help yourself to herbs and veggies. It doesn’t get fresher than that. Grab a dorm for just $30, or an private en-suite from $85, and with either choice you’ll get free wifi and brekkie. bighostel.com

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QLDLISTINGS

BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com

DON’T MISS!

BRISBANE DO

Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace. 07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com

Australia Zoo Glasshouse Mountains, Tourist Drive, Beerwah. 07 5436 2000, australiazoo.com.au

Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, stayatbase.com

Gallery of Modern Art 07 3840 7303, qag.qld.gov.au

Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433, stayatbase.com Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au

KID ROCK Suncorp Stadium. Tues, 17 Dec. Tickets from $35. Catch the Kid hit Aussie soil as he cruises around supporting Bon Jovi on their Because We Can tour, which hits four cities in Oz.

Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, 1800 682 865, bunkbrisbane.com.au The Deck 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm. 04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George & Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646 tinbilly.com

Riverlife Adventure Centre Kayaking & rock climbing. Lower River Terrace, Kangaroo Point. 07 3891 5766, riverlife.com.au

Brisbane

ticketek.com.au

Balmoral House 33 Amelia St, Fortitude Valley vipbackpackers.com Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St yha.com.au Nomads Prince Consort Backpackers

230 Wickham St princeconsort.com.au Somewhere to Stay Cnr Brighton Rd & Franklin St somewheretostay.com.au The Palace Backpackers Cnr Anne & Edward St backpackbrisbane.com

Story Bridge Adventure Climb 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point. 1300 254 627, storybridgeadventureclimb. com.au XXXX Brewery Tours & Ale House Brewery tours. Cnr Black & Paten St, Milton. 07 3361 7597, xxxbrewerytours.com. au

GOLD COAST Aquarius Backpackers 44 Queen St, Surfers Paradise. 1800 22 99 55, aquariusbackpackers.com.au

@tnt_downunder Backpackers in Paradise 40 Peninsula Drive, Surfers Paradise. 1800 268 621, backpackersinparadise.com.au Coolangatta Kirra Beach YHA Pl, 230 Coolangatta Rd, Bilinga. 07 5536 76442, yha.com.au Coolangatta Sands Hostel Cnr Griffiths & McLean Sts, Coolangatta. 07 5536 7472, coolangattasandshostel.com.au Gold Coast International BP 28 Hamilton Ave, Surfers. 1800 816 300, goldcoastbackpackers.com.au Islander Backpackers Resort 6 Beach Rd, Surfers Paradise. 1800 074 393, islander.com.au Sleeping Inn Surfers 26 Peninsular Dr, Surfers Paradise. 1800 817 832, sleepinginn.com.au Surfers Paradise Backpackers Resort 2837 Gold Coast Highway, Surfers. 1800 282 800, surfersparadisebackpackers. com.au Surfers Paradise YHA Mariners Cove, 70 Seaworld Drive, Main Beach, Surfers Paradise. 07 5571 1776, yha.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

SURFING THE GOLD COAST

You can’t claim to have experienced Australia until you’ve had a go at the national obsession, surfing. And where else to try it but at Surfers Paradise. Well actually, if you’re half-decent on a board, Surfers is one of the worse places on the GC to look for waves – instead try South Straddie, Snapper Rocks or Burleigh Heads. However, if it’s your first go, then Surfers is, well, paradise. Here’s a pic of the man, the legend, Kelly Slater, mixing it up at Snapper Rocks.

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IN THE SPOTLIGHT

BUNDABERG If the beautiful weather, stunning coastline and coral-fringed beaches don’t seduce you, then the local rum will. Bundy is famous for its cane fields, which produce the country’s most famous rum, it’s up there with Vegemite and Tim Tams. You’ll also be able to find fruit-picking and farm work here if you decide to stay.

THE RIDE OF YOUR LIFE! Cairns

Great Barrier Reef Townsville

WHITSU NDAYS 3 DAYS IN ONE... Whitehaven Beach, top snorkel destinations & island bushwalks. P: 07 4946 6848 www.oceanrafting.com.au

CA P E TR IBUL ATIO N

Prosperine

Airlie Beach (Whitsundays) Mackay Yeppoon Rockhampton

Gladstone Bundaberg Maryborough

Hervey Bay Fraser Island

BRISBANE

Ask about our 2 trip special deal with our sister company OCEAN SAFARI - www.oceansafari.com.au

Great Barrier Reef - Half Day Snorkel Tour

Terms and conditions: * To receive the discount international backpackers must hold a current passport with an international address. This fare type excludes domestic backpackers. # Receive up to 40% discount on economy seat adult rail fares. For more information or to book your Backpacker Rail Fares, visit queenslandrailtravel@qr.com.au or call 1800 872 467. Valid for travel until 31 March 2014. Queensland Rail Limited ABN 71 132 181 09 Travel Agent Lic. No. QLD 327 4957 QR3789.23_DL_0912.

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QLDLISTINGS Trekkers Backpackers 22 White St, Southport. 1800 100 004, trekkersbackpackers.com.au Nomads Islander Resort 3128 Surfers Paradise Blvd, nomadsworld.com Surf & Sun Backpackers 3323 Surfers Paradise Blvd surfnsun-goldcoast.com

GC DO Dreamworld Theme park. dreamworld.com.au Get Wet Surf School 07 5532 9907 Seaworld

Halse Lodge YHA 2 Halse Lane, Noosa. 1800 242 567, halselodge.com.au

RAINBOW BEACH Dingos Backpacker Adventure Resort 20 Spectrum St. 1800 111126, dingosresort.com

Warner Bros Movie World movieworld.com.au Zorb 07 5547 6300

Palace Adventures 184 Torquay St, Hervey Bay, 1800 063 168 palaceadventures.com.au Barefoot Lodge Long Island barefootlodge.com.au Colonial Village YHA 820 Boat Harbour Drive, Urangan, Hervey Bay yha.com.au

Skydive Rainbow Beach 0418 218 358, skydiverainbowbeach.com

Cool Dingo’s Rainbow Beach 20 Spectrum St dingosresort.com

HERVEY BAY Aussie Woolshed 181 Torquay Rd 07 4124 0677 woolshedbackpackers.com

SUNSHINE CST

Next at Hervey Bay 10 Bideford St. 1800 102 989, nextbackpackers.com.au

Mooloolaba Backpackers 75-77 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba. 1800 020 120 mooloolababackpackers.com

Palace Backpackers 184 Torquay, 1800 063 168, palaceadventures.com.au

Nomads Noosa 44 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads. 1800 666 237, nomadshostels.com

07 4120 1600, eurong.com.au

Pippies Beach House 22 Spectrum St. 1800 425 356, pippiesbeachhouse.com

seaworld.com.au

Wet ‘n’ Wild Water World wetnwild.myfun.com.au

FRASER ISLAND Eurong Beach Resort

Dropbear Adventures Williams Ave, Fraser Island. QLD +61 487 333 606 dropbearadventures.com Frasers On Rainbow Beach 195 Torquay Terrace, Torquay, flashpackersherveybay.com Kingfisher Bay Resort River Heads Road, Fraser Island kingfisherbay.com Fraser Coast Top Tourist Park 21 Denmans Camp Road, Scarness, Hervey Bay frasercoasttouristpark.com.au Fraser Island Backpackers Cathedral Beach, Fraser Island

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

fraserislandco.com.au

Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd. 1800 24 22 73, stayatbase.com

The Friendly Hostel 182 Torquay Rd, Hervey Bay friendlyhostel.com.au

Bungalow Bay Backpackers Horseshow Bay. 1800 285 577, bungalowbay.com.au

Woolshed Backpackers 181 Torquay Road woolshedbackpackers.com.au

BUNDABERG Federal Backpackers 221 Bourbong St. 07 4153 3711 federalbackpackers.com.au Northside Backpackers 12 Queen St. 07 4154 1166 Bundaberg Bondstore Distillery tours. 07 4131 2999 bundabergrum.com.au

TOWN OF 1770 1770 Backpackers 6 Captain Cook Dr. 1800 121 770, the1770backpackers.com 1770 Undersea Adventures 1300 553 889, 1770underseaadventures.com

AIRLIE BEACH

Pleasure Divers 07 4778 5788

MISSION BEACH Absolute Backpackers 28 Wongaling Beach Road. 07 4068 8317, absolutebackpackers.com.au Beach Shack 86 Porters Promenade missionbeachshack.com Scotty’s Beach House 167 Reid Rd. 07 4068 8676, scottysbeachhouse.com.au Jackaroo Hostel Mission Beach Frizelle Rd, Bingil Bay jackaroohostel.com Mission Beach Retreat 49 Porters Promenade missionbeachretreat.com.au

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bohemiacentral.com.au

Airlie Beach YHA 394 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 247 251, yha.com.au

Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353 bohemiaresort.com.au

Backpackers by the Bay 12 Hermitage Dr. 1800 646 994, backpackersbythebay.com

Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au

Base Airlie Beach Resort 336 Shute Harbour Rd 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com

Magnums Whitsunday Village Resort 366 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 624 634 magnums.com.au

NJoy Backpackers Hostel Harbour 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055, njoy.net.au

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Resort 79 Palmer St. 1800 211 522, adventurersresort.com

Hotel Arcadia 7 Marine Parade, Arcadia Bay. 07 4778 5177, magnetic-island.com/arc-rsrt.htm

airliebeach.com 259 Shute Harbour Rd. 1800 677 119

BOWEN

Known as a backpacker hotspot, the world’s largest sand island is also awesome for 4-wheel driving, camping, dingo spotting and snorkelling (in the lakes at least). And building sand castles of course. Get yourself on a selfdrive tour for the real Fraser experience. You and up to eight new friends are assigned to a vehicle that gets you around and carries the camp gear, usually for three days/two nights.

MAGNETIC ISL

Fraser’s on Rainbow 18 Spectrum Av, Rainbow Beach frasersonrainbow.com

Bowen Backpackers Beach end of Herbert St. 07 4786 3433 bowenbackpackers.net

FRASER ISLAND

@tnt_downunder

Adrenalin Dive. 07 4724 0600, adrenalindive.com.au Yongala Dive Yongala diving. 07 4783 1519, yongaladive.com.au

Nomads Beach House 239 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228, nomadshostels.com Northern Greenhouse 117 Grafton Street. 1800 229 228, northerngreenhouse.com.au

CAIRNS DO AJ Hackett Bungy jumping & canyon swinging. 1800 622 888 cairns.ajhackett.com Pro Dive 07 4031 5255 prodivecairns.com Raging Thunder Adventures Whitewater rafting. 07 4030 7990, ragingthunder.com.au

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Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Gold Coast

Famous for fun

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QLDLISTINGS Skydive Cairns POBOX 105N Cairns 07 4052 1822, skydivecairns.com.au

CAPE TRIB Crocodylus Village Lot 5, Buchanan Creek Rd, Cow Bay. 07 4098 9166, crocodyluscapetrib.com PK’s Jungle Village Cnr Avalon & Cape Trib Rd. 1800 232 333, pksjunglevillage.com.au

Parrotfish Backpackers Resort 37 Warner St, Kuranda. 07 4099 5011, parrotfishlodge.com

GULF SAVANNAH Emu Creek Cattle Station 07 4094 8313

DAINTREE Koala Beach Resort Cape Kimberly Rd. 1800 466 444

MOOLOOLABA

INNISFAIL IInnisfail Budget Backpackers Worker’s Hostel 125 Edith St. 07 4061 78337 Walkabout Motel & ackpackers 07 4061 2311 walkaboutbackpackers.com.au

Mooloolaba Backpackers VIP 75 Brisbane Road mooloolababackpackers.com

MORETON ISLAND Tangalooma Wild Dolphin Resort tangalooma.com

ATHERTON Kuranda Rainforest Park 88 Kuranda Heights Rd, Kuranda. 07 4093 7316, kurandarainforestpark.com.au

PORT DOUGLAS

NOOSA

Noosa Backpackers Resort 9-13 William St noosabackpackers.com

NOOSA INLAND Ride On Mary Budget Bush Retreat imbilkayakandbike.com

PORT DOUGLAS Dougies Backpackers Resort 111 Davidson St dougies.com.au Global Port Douglas 38 Macrossan St globalbackpackerscairns.com. au/port-douglas Parrot Fish Lodge 37 Warner St parrotfishlodge.com Port O’Call YHA 7 Craven Close portocall.com.au

INNISFAIL

Dolphins Beach House 14 Duke Street, Sunshine Beach dolphinsbeachhouse.com.au

Codge Lodge 63 Rankin St codgelodge.com Crown Hostel 25 Ernest St (07) 4061 2266

Nomads Noosa Backpackers 44 Noosa Dr NOOSA inland nomadsworld.com

Innisfail Budget Backpackers 125 Edith St jobsforbackpackers.com.au

Farm work, Innisfail 0437 692 002

AGNES WATER 1770 Beachside Backpacker 12 Captain Cook Drive independentbackpackers.com 1770 Southern Cross Backpackers 2694 Round Hill Rd 1770southerncross.com

ROCKHAMPTON Emu Park Resort 92 Patterson St, Emu Park emusbeachresort.com Rockhampton Backpackers YHA 60 Macfarlane St yha.com.au Childers Eco-Lodge Off the Princess Highway childersecolodge.com.au

STRADBROKE IS Manta Lodge & Scuba Centre 1 Eastcoast Rd mantalodge.com.au

SUNSHINE COAST Cotton Tree Beachouse 15 the Esplanade cottontreebackpackers.com

@tnt_downunder

TOWNSVILLE Adventurers Backpackers 79 Palmer St adventurersresort.com Civic Guest House Backpackers Hostel 262 Walker St civicguesthousetownsville. com.au Foreign Exchange Accommodation - Beachside 19 Eyre St, North Ward foreignx.com.au

MACKAY Gecko’s Rest 34 Sydney St geckosrest.com.au

MAGNETIC IS Base Magnetic Island 1 Nelly Bay Rd stayatbase.com Bungalow Bay Koala Village YHA 40 Horseshoe Bay Rd bungalowbay.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

P RAFTING THE TULLY RIVER Just inland from Mission Beach, but still possible to do as a long daytrip from Cairns, the Tully is one of the best places in Australia to test your nerve with some whitewater rafting. Prepare to get battered and bruised while spending most of the time screaming your head off... or holding your breath until the rapids choose to spit you out again.

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QLD’S BEST BACKPACKERS

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ACCOMMODATION IN 2009 & 2010!! bunkbrisbane.com.au 11-21 Gipps Street, Fortitude Valley Postal: PO Box 261, Fortitude Valley Qld 4006 P.1800 682 865 or +61 7 3257 3644

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VICLISTINGS

MELBOURNE STAY

BOOK NOW!

All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, allnations.com.au

Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762, nomadshostels.com

Hotel Discovery 167 Franklin St hoteldiscovery.com.au Lords Lodge Backpackers 167 Franklin St lordslodge.com

Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au

Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda. 1800 242 273, stayatbase.com

Melbourne International Backpackers 204 Punt Rd, Prahran mibp.com.au

The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, hotelspencer.com

Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond. 03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net

$22 $ Melbourne Metro YHA 78 Howard St yha.com.au

Back of Chapel 50 Green St, Windsor nomadshostels.com

Melbourne Oasis YHA 76 Chapman St yha.com.au

College Lawn Hotel 36 Greville St, Prahran collegelawnhotel.com.au

Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697, exfordhotel.com.au

MUSE

Rod Laver Arena. Fri, 6 Dec & Sat, 7 Dec. Tickets from $107. The boys are back for another stadium tour of Australia, but don’t hang around long if you’re keen. The tickets sure as hell won’t.

Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au

Melbourne

@tnt_downunder

ticketek.com.au

The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane. 1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com.au

Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212 homemansion.com.au

Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200, hotelbakpak.com

Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au

Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718, hometravellersmotel.com.au

Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523, yha.com.au

Claremont Guesthouse 189 Toorak Rd, South Yarra hotelclaremont.com City Centre Budget Hotel 22-30 Little Collins St citycentrebudgethotel.com

Elephant Backpackers 250 Flinders St elephantbackpacker.com.au Elizabeth Hostel 490 Elizabeth St elizabethhostel.com.au

King St Backpackers 160 King Street kingstreetbackpackers.com.au

St Arnaud 99 Park St, South Yarra, starnaudguesthouse.com.au The Spencer City Central BP 475 Spencer St spencerbackpackers.com.au

The Nunnery 116 Nicholson Street, Fitzroy nunnery.com.au Urban Central 334 City Road, Southbank urbancentral.com.au

Victoria Hotel Backpackers Victoria Hotel, 380 Victoria St vichotelbrunswick.com.au

Maximum 4 bed dormitories with linen and towel

FREE all you can eat breakfast (cereal, toast and j weekly meal, rice and pasta, tea and coffee FREE in room oversized locker with personal power point 5 minute walk to city

Large bar with big screen (all major sporting events shown) Drink specials at the bar

Stay

Maximum 4 bed dor

Public transport on doorstep

FREE all you can ea weekly meal, rice and

Unique value tour packages

UC103

FREE in room oversi power point

Maximum 4 bed 5 minute walk to city

FREE breakfast (

with big sc Large barweekly meal, rice (all major sporting ev FREE in room ov

power point

Drink specials at the UC103

FREE inbound tr

5 minute walk to Public transport on d

Book Now 1800

value tour pa 631 288 Unique urbancentra

Large bar with b (all major sportin

Public transport

MELBOURNE STREET ART

Unique value tou

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

Book1800 Now 180 Book Now UC103

UC103

The leading lights of the graffiti world, like Banksy, rate Melbourne as one of the best cities in the world, if not the best, for street art, so it’s well worth hunting some down. One of the easiest, and best, places to start is right in the centre of the city, by Federation Square. Just opposite the square lies the opening to Hosier Lane (with MoVida tapas restaurant on the corner). Nearby AC/DC Lane is also well worth a quick look. Don’t just stay in the CBD, however, but take a stroll out to the suburbs, especially Fitzroy and Collingwood. In Fitzroy, the laneways off Brunswick Street are particularly good. Be sure to take diversions off the main drag, especially down Leicester Street, Rose Street, Gertrude Street and Argyle Street, or wander down the parallel Fitzroy Street. While exploring the area, make an effort to head in the direction of Collingwood, where the roads surrounding Smith Street are also crammed with art-covered walls.

UC 103 TNT $22 175x122.

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urb

Stay. Play. Melbourne.

2 $22 $24

Beds from $24 per night Monday to Thursday

Accommodation from $2 Accommodation from $22 a night (subject to availability) *Subject to availability

(subject to availability)

Maximum 4 bed dormitories with linen and towel FREE all you can eat breakfast (cereal, toast and juice), weekly meal, rice and pasta, tea and coffee

towel

$22 $22

st and juice), FREE in room oversized locker with personal

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UC103

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1800 631 288

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UC103

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334 CITY ROAD SOUTHBANK MELBOURNE VIC 3006 AUSTRALIA 334 CITY ROAD SOUTHBANK MELBOURNE

631 288 urbancentral.com.au

VIC 3006 AUSTRALIA

334 CITY ROAD SOUTHBANK MELBOURNE VIC 3006 AUSTRALIA 19/5/10 16:49:37

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VICLISTINGS ST KILDA Back of Chapel Backpackers 50 Green St backofchapel.com Base St Kilda 17 Carlisle St stayatbase.com Coffee Palace Backpackers 24 Grey St coffeepalacebackpackers.com.au Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Rd, thehabitathq.com.au Oslo Hotel 38 Grey St oslohotel.com.au The Ritz for Backpackers 109 Barkly St stkildabeachhouse.com.au St Kilda Beach House 169B Fitzroy St ritzbackpackers.com

MELBOURNE DO Australian Centre for the Moving Image Federation Square. 03 8663 2200, acmi.net.au Melbourne Aquarium Cnr of Flinders St & King St. 03 9923 5999, melbourneaquarium.com.au

Discovery Melbourne 167 Franklin St. discoverymelbourne.com Melbourne Cricket Ground Brunton Av. 03 9657 8888 mcg.org.au

Melbourne Museum 11 Nicholson St, Carlton. 13 11 02

melbourne.museum.vic.gov.au National Gallery of Victoria Federation Square. ngv.vic.gov.au Old Melbourne Gaol 377 Russell St. 03 8663 7228, oldmelbournegaol.com.au Official Neighbours Tours 570 Flinders St. 03 9629 5866, neighbourstour.com.au Skydive the Beach Melbourne 1300 798 843 skydivethebeachmelbourne.com Tourism Victoria Backpacking ideas. backpackmelbourne.com Wildlife Tours Australia Specialising in Victorian tours +61 3 9314 2225 wildlifetours.com.au

GREAT OCEAN RD Anglesea Backpackers 40 Noble St, Anglesea. 03 5263 2664, angleseabackpackers.com.au Eco Beach YHA 5 Pascoe St. 03 5237 7899, yha.com.au Great Ocean Road Backpackers YHA 10 Erskine Av, Lorne. 03 5289 2508, yha.com.au Port Campbell Hostel 18 Tregea St, Port Campbell. 03 5598 6305, portcampbellhostel.com.au Surfside Backpackers Cnr Great Ocean Rd & Gambier St, Apollo Bay. 1800 357 263, surfsidebackpacker.com

MORNINGTON Bayplay Lodge 46 Canterbury Jetty Rd, Blairgowrie. 03 5988 0188, bayplay.com.au Sorrento Foreshore Reserve Nepean Hwy. 1800 850 600, mornpen.vic.gov.au Sorrento YHA

3 Miranda St, Sorrento. 03 5984 4323, yha.com.au Tortoise Head Lodge French Island. 03 5980 1234, tortoisehead.net

DANDENONG Emerald Backpackers 03 5968 4086

MURRAY RIVER Echuca Gardens YHA 103 Av, Mitchell St, Echuca. 03 5480 6522, yha.com.au Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Ave, Mildura. 03 5022 7922, milduracitybackpackers.com.au Oasis Backpackers 230 Deakin Av, Mildura. 04 0734 4251, milduraoasisbackpackers.com.au

GIPPSLAND Prom Country Backpackers 03 5682 2614 Cambrai Hostel Maffra 117 Johnson St, Maffra. 1800 101 113 maffra.net.au/hostel

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PHILLIP ISLAND Amaroo Park YHA 97 Church St, Cowes. 03 5952 3620, yha.com.au The Island Accommodation 10-12 Phillip Island Tourist Road. 03 5956 6123 theislandaccommodation.com. au

GRAMPIANS Grampians YHA Eco Hostel Cnr Grampians & Buckler Rds, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4543, yha.com.au Tim’s Place 44 Grampians Road, Halls Gap. 03 5356 4288, timsplace.com.au

MILDURA Mildura City Backpackers 50 Lemon Avenue milduracitybackpackers.com.au

STRATHMERTON Riviera Backpackers YHA 669 Esplanade yha.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

PHILLIP ISLAND’S PENGUIN PARADE Entry from $22.60. If checking out cute birds is your thing, then you won’t do better than these little guys. Watching them race up the beach to safety at dusk will have you cooing for sure. penguins.org.au

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ADELAIDE STAY

EYRE PENINSULA

CHECK OUT!

Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, adpi.com.au

Flinders Highway, Port Kenny.

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010, yha.com.au

08 8687 0411

coodliepark.com Baird Bay Ocean Eco Experience

Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au

Sea lion and dolphin swims. 08 8626 5017

bairdbay.com

Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, anniesplace.com.au Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au

ADELAIDE DO Adelaide Oval Home to the Donald Bradman collection. War Memorial Drive. 08 8300 3800 cricketsa.com.au

Coodlie Park Farmstay

Calypso Star Charters Great white shark cage diving. 08 8682 3939,

BEYONCE

sharkcagediving.com.au

Adelaide Entertainment Centre. Tues, 5 Nov & Wed, 6 Nov. Tickets from $99. Even if you can’t afford a ticket, or can’t get your hands on one despite desperate attempts, be prepared for the Beyonce circus to hit Australia hard Photo opps at the ready.

Adelaide

Nullarbor Traveller Tours across to Perth.

theaec.net

1800 816 858

the-traveller.com.au Adelaide Zoo Frome Rd. 08 8267 3255, zoossa.com.au Haigh’s Chocolates Factory tours. 153 Greenhill Rd, Parkside 1800 819 757, haighschocolates.com.au Temptation Sailing Dolphin swimming, Glenelg. 04 1281 1838 dolphinboat.com.au

BAROSSA VAL Barossa Backpackers 9 Basedow Road, Tanunda. 08 8563 0198, barossa backpackers.com.au

COOBER PEDY Opal Cave Coober Pedy Hutchinson St. 08 8672 5028, opalcavecooberpedy.com.au Radeka Down Under 1 Oliver St. 1800 633 891, radekadownunder.com.au Riba’s Underground 1811 William Creek Rd. 08 8672 5614, camp-underground.com.au

KANGAROO IS Kangaroo Island YHA 33 Middle Terrace, Penneshaw. 08 8553 1344 yha.com.au Vivonne Bay Lodge 66 Knofel Drive, Vivonne Bay 13 13 01 seaink.com.au

RIVERLAND

Port Lincoln Tourist Park

Berri Backpackers Sturt Highway, Berri. 08 8582 3144, berribackpackers.com.au

11 Hindmarsh St.

Harvest Trail Lodge Loxton. 08 8584 5646, harvesttrail.com.au

Rodney Fox Shark Expeditions

08 8621 4444,

portlincolntouristpark.com.au

Great white shark cage diving. 08 8363 1788

Nomads on Murray Sturt Highway, Kingston on Murray. 1800 665 166, nomadsworld.com

rodneyfox.com.au

FLINDERS RANGES

Riverland Backpackers Labour Hire Services 08 8583 0211

Angorichina Tourist Village 08 8648 4842,

angorichinavillage.com.au

FLEURIEU PEN Port Elliot Beach House YHA 13 The Strand, Port Elliot. 08 8554 2785 yha.com.au

Wilpena Pound Resort Wilpena Rd. 08 8648 0004,

wilpenapound.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

GLENELG A little beach suburb that feels like the lovechild of Brighton (England) and St Kilda (Melbourne). Luckily it has the sandy shores in its lineage. It’s about a half-hour tram ride from Adelaide and is home to some pretty decent bars and restaurants. For the real experience, what you want to do is get some fish and chips and sit on the jetty.

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WALISTINGS IN THE SPOTLIGHT

PERTH STAY Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, billabongresort.com.au Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, perthbrittania.com Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge. 1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au

The Shiralee Hostel 107 Brisbane St, Northbridge planetinn.com.au Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, shiralee.com.au Wickham Retreat Backpackers 25-27 Wickham St East Perth (08) 9325 6398 YMCA Jewell House 180 Goderich St ymcajewellhouse.com.au 1201 East Backpackers 195 Hay St 1201east.com.au

PERTH DO

The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com

Kings Park & Botanic Garden bgpa.wa.gov.au

Backpack City and Surf 41-43 Money St backpacker.com.au Beatty Lodge 235 Vincent St beattylodge.com.au Cheviot Lodge 30 Bulwer St cheviotlodge.com Coolibah Lodge 194 Brisbane St coolibahlodge.com.au Easy Perth Backpackers 4 Francis Street, Northbridge

easyperthbackpackers.com.au Grand Central Hotel Backpackers 379 Wellington St (08) 9421 1123 Hay Street Backpackers 266-268 Hay St haystbackpackers.com Hotel Bambu Backpackers 75 - 77 Aberdeen St, Northbridge bambu.net.au

Planet Inn Backpackers 496 Newcastle St planetinn.com.au

Aquarium of Western Australia 91 Southside Drive, Hillarys. 08 9447 7500, aqwa.com.au

The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, Witchs-hat.com

Test your nerve in the middle of Tall Timber Country at Walpole, where the Tree Top Walk is suspended 40m above the ground in the canopy of giant tingle trees. As the walkway sways gently from side to side, you get a one of a kind bird’s eye view of the region. After that, head on to Denmark and Albany, a great place for whale watching, surfing and four wheel driving.

Perth Beach YHA & Indigo Net Cafe 256 West Coast Hwy, Scarbrough indigonet.com.au

Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333, yha.com.au

Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge. 08 9228 3755, undergroundbackpackers.com.au

TALL TIMBER COUNTRY

@tnt_downunder

Mountway Holiday Apartments 36 Mount St mountwayapartments.com.au Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottesloe woceanbeachbackpackers.com

Perth Mint 310 Hay St. 08 9421 7223, perthmint.com.au Perth Zoo 20 Labouchere Road, South Perth. 08 9474 3551, perthzoo.wa.gov.au

PERTH MUSIC Amplifier amplifiercapitol.com.au Astor liveattheastor.com.au Mojo’s Bar mojosbar.com.au The Bakery nowbaking.com.au The Rosemount Hotel rosemounthotel.com.au

FREO STAY Backpackers Inn Freo 11 Pakenham St. 08 9431 7065, backpackersinnfreo.com.au Old Firestation Backpackers 18 Phillimore St. 08 9430 5454, fremantleprison.com.au Sundancer Backpackers Resort 80 High St. 08 9336 6080, sundancerbackpackers.com.au

FREO DO Fremantle Markets Henderson Street Fremantle 08 9335 2515, fremantlemarkets.com.au

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WINNER BEST HOSTEL IN WA 2007 FINALIST 2008,2009,2010 & 2011

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WALISTINGS Fremantle Prison 1 The Terrace. 08 9336 9200, backpackersinnfreo.com.au

DON’T MISS!

ROTTNEST ISL

08 9842 9599, cruizeinn.com

MONKEY MIA

MARGARET RIVER

Blue Reef Backpackers 3 Truscott Crescent, Exmouth 1800 621 101, aspenparks.com.au

Margaret River Lodge YHA 220 Railway Tce. 08 9757 9532, yha.com.au

Ningaloo Club Coral Bay 08 9948 5100, ningalooclub.com

Surfpoint 12 Riedle Drive Prevally 08 9757 1777 surfpoint.com.au

Excape Backpackers YHA Murat Rd, Exmouth. 08 9949 1200, yha.com.au

ALBANY

Cruize-Inn 122 Middleton Rd.

Ningaloo Club Robinson St

ningalooclub.com

NINGALOO REEF

Rottnest Express 1 Emma Place North Fremantle 1300 Go Rotto rottnestexpress.com.au

Albany Bayview Backpackers YHA 49 Duke St 08 9842 3388, yha.com.au

CORAL BAY

Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Monkey Mia Road Monkey Mia 1800 653 611, monkeymia.com.au

Rottnest Island YHA Kingstown Barracks. 08 9372 9780, yha.com.au

@tnt_downunder

ESPERANCE Blue Waters Lodge YHA 299 Goldfields Rd,

yha.com.au

BROOME STAY TINIE TEMPAH Arena Joondalup. Sun, 2 Mar. Tickets from $160. Man of the moment Tinie will be among the headliners at the alwaysepic Future Music festival this summer. As will Deadmau5.

Perth

futuremusicfestival.com.au

Cable Beach Backpackers 12 Sanctuary Road. 1800 655 011, cablebeachbackpackers.com Kimberley Club 62 Fredrick St 08 9192 3233, kimberleyklub.com

EXMOUTH Pete’s Exmouth Backpackers YHA Cnr Truscott Cres & Murat Rd

yha.com.au

Book online at www.integritycoachlines.com.au or call 08 9274 7464 (1800 226 339 free call W.A only)

HOP ON HOP OFF TICKET $329 valid for 12 months in one direction with unlimited stops!

With unlimited stopovers on all our services and Hop on Hop off ticket now available between Perth, Broome, Monkey Mia, Exmouth, Kalbarri and many more, there is no better way to travel Western Australia than with Integrity Coach Lines! Integrity Coach Lines provide an excellent reliable coach service at a competitive price. Cheap prices for backpackers YHA VIP & Nomad members! Check us out online.

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LAUNCESTON DO

HOBART STAY Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507, centralbackpackers.com.au

DON’T MISS!

Cataract Gorge launcestoncataractgorge.com.au Centre for Beer Lovers Boag’s Brewery, 39 William St. 03 6332 6300, boags.com.au

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660, yha.com.au

Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 2 Invermay Rd & 2 Wellington St. 03 6323 3777, qvmag.tas.gov.au

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com

Tasmania Zoo 1166 Ecclestone Rd. 03 6396 6100, tasmaniazoo.com.au

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com

HOBART DO Cascade Brewery 140 Cascade Rd. 03 6224 1117 cascadebreweryco.com.au Mt Wellington Descent Bike tours. 03 6274 1880 mtwellingtondescent.com.au Salamanca Markets Every Saturday, Salamanca Place. salamanca.com.au Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 5 Argyle St. tmag.com.au

DEVONPORT TASTE OF TASMANIA Hobart waterfront. Thur, 28 Dec – Fri, 3 Jan. Hobart comes alive over the New Year period and not least because of this awesome, food-filled taste, music and entertainment fest.

Hobart

thetasteoftasmania.com.au

PORT ARTHUR Port Arthur Historic Ghost Tours 1800 659 101, portarthur.org.au

LAUNCESTON Arthouse Backpacker Hostel 20 Lindsay St. 1800 041 135, arthousehostel.com.au

Launceston Backpackers 103 Canning St. 03 6334 2327, launcestonbackpackers.com.au Lloyds Hotel 23 George St. 03 6331 9906, backpackersaccommodation.com.au

Tasman Backpackers 114 Tasman St. 03 6423 2335, tasmanbackpackers.com.au

BICHENO Bicheno Backpackers 11 Morrison St. 03 6375 1651, bichenobackpackers.com Bicheno Penguin Tours 03 6375 1333, bichenopenguintours.com.au

CRADLE MTN Discovery Holiday Parks Cradle Mountain Rd. 1800 068 574 discoveryholidayparks.com.au

Mt Roland Budget Backpacker Rooms 1447 Claude Rd, Gowrie Park. 03 6491 1385

CRADLE DO Devils at Cradle Tassie devil sanctuary. 3950 Cradle Mountain Rd. 03 6492 1491. devilsatcradle.com Overland Track Six-day walk parks.tas.gov.au

FREYCINET Iluka Backpackers YHA Reserve Rd. 03 6257 0115, yha.com.au Freycinet National Park Brewery, Wineglass Bay camping. 03 6256 7000 wineglassbay.com

STRAHAN, Strahan YHA 43 Harvey St. 03 6471 7255, yha.com

STRAHAN DO Four Wheelers Henty Sand Dunes quadbike tours. 04 1950 8175 4wheelers.com.au Water by Nature Extreme multiday whitewater rafting. 1800 111 142, franklinrivertasmania.com

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

BAY OF FIRES Binalong Bay to Eddystone Point, north-eastern Tasmania. Despite being named as one of the world’s best beaches by Lonely Planet a few years ago, this undeveloped, idyllic corner of Tassie is still, just about, hanging onto its off the beaten track status. Kick back and enjoy the turquoise waters, white sands and fiery red granite rocks that give the area its name.

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NTLISTINGS

DARWIN STAY Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au

KATHERINE STAY

CHECK OUT

BIG4 Katherine Holiday Park 20 Shadforth Road. 1800 501 984, big4.com.au

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385, yha.com.au

Palm Court Kookaburra Backpackers Giles St. 1800 626 722

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au

KATHERINE DO

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au

Airborne Solutions Scenic helicopter flights. 08 8972 2345 airbornesolutions.com.au

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com

JAMES BLUNT Convention Centre. Wed, 4 June. $TBC. Love him or loathe him, the “Beautiful” singer is bringing his new album Down Under with a tour of Oz and New Zealand.

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au

DARWIN DO Crocosaurus Cove Crocodile park and cage of death. 58 Mitchell St. 08 8981 7522, crocosauruscove.com Deckchair Cinema Jervois Rd, Darwin Waterfront. 08 8981 0700, deckchaircinema.com.au

Nitmiluk Tours Gorge cruises and kayak hire. 1300 146 743 nitmiluktours.com.au

Darwin

darwinconvention.com.au

Fannie Bay Gaol Heritage prison. East Point Road, Fannie Bay. 08 8941 2260, nt.gov.au Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 19 Conacher St, Bullocky Point. 08 8999 8264, magnt.nt.gov.au

Oz Jet Boating Stokes Hill Wharf. 1300 135 595, ozjetboating.com.au Spectacular Jumping Crocodile Cruise Adelaide River. 08 8978 9077, jumpingcrocodile.com.au Wave Lagoon Waterfront Precinct. waterfront.nt.gov.au

TENNANT CREEK Tourist Rest Leichardt St. 08 8962 2719, touristrest.com.au

ALICE SPRINGS Alice Lodge 4 Mueller St. 08 8953 1975, alicelodge.com.au Alice Springs YHA Cnr Parsons St & Leichhardt Tce. 08 8952 8855, yha.com.au Annie’s Place 4 Traeger Ave. 1800 359 089, anniesplacebackpackers.com

@tnt_downunder

Haven Resort 3 Larapinta Drive. 1800 794 663, alicehaven.com.au Toddy’s Resort 41 Gap Rd. 1800 027 027, toddys.com.au

ALICE DO Alice Springs Desert Park Larapinta Drive. 08 8951 8788, alicespringsdesertpark.com.au Alice Springs Reptile Centre Meet and hold lizards. 9 Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 8900, reptilecentre.com.au Outback Ballooning Hot air balloon rides. 1800 809 790, outbackballooning.com.au Royal Flying Doctor Service Base Museum and operations room. Stuart Terrace. 08 8952 1129, flyingdoctor.net School of the Air Long-distance schooling museum. 80 Head St. 08 8951 6834, assoa.nt.edu.au The Rock Tour Uluru tours. 78 Todd St. 1800 246 345, therocktour.com.au

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

KINGS CANYON There’s no denying there’s one very big reason why you should not leave Australia before venturing to the Red Centre – Uluru – but there’s far more to see in the region than simply the rock. As spectacular and spiritual as Uluru is, often travellers are equally blown away by the area’s two other main attractions, Kata Tjuta and Kings Canyon. The jagged geology of the canyon is not something you want to miss.

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IN THE SPOTLIGHT

KAYAKING KATHERINE GORGE Sure, you can empty your wallet for a scenic helicopter flight, or you can join the masses of silver nomads on a boat cruise (especially when the Ghan train is in town), but the best way to really get a croc’s eye feel for the spectacular gorges of Nitmiluk National Park is to jump in a kayak and go for a paddle. It’s also the cheapest way to see them. Double score! Just be careful where you swim.

Fly to Alice Springs from SYD/MELB from

$89.95

one way with Tiger Air TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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NZLISTINGS AUCKLAND Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere. +64 9275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz Auckland International The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. +64 9307 0181, nomadshostels.com Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. +64 9300 9999, nomadshostels.com Oaklands Lodge (BBH) St. +64 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden. +64 9638 6545, oaklands.co.nz Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. +64 9373 3471, enquiries@qsb.co.nz Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. +64 9363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. yha.co.nz +64 9309 2802, YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. +64 9302 8200, yha.co.nz

WELLINGTON

Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. +64 4473 8482 db@downtownbackpackers.co.nz Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. +64 4385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres. +64 4384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414 YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. +64 4801 7280

CHRISTCHURCH Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East. +64 3377 1897, chesterst.co.nz

Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. Base Wellington 21-23 TNT-OZ-halfpage.pdf 2 25/09/2013 1:17:06 p.m. +64 3366 9720, Cambridge Tce. +64 4801 5666 stayatbase.com backpack.co.nz/foley

@tnt_downunder

Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546, stay@kiwibasecamp.com

Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. +64 3442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz

The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. +64 3381 5504, oldcountryhousenz.com

Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. +64 3441 3922, nomadshostels.com

Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals +800 200 80 801, backpackercampervans.com

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. +64 3366 6500, tranquil-lodge.co.nz

Peterpans Adventure Travel 27 Shotover St Queenstown. peterpans.com.au

Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122, bargainrentals.com.nz

Pinewood Lodge (VIP) 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 7463 9663, rgrieg@xtra.co.nz

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. +64 3377 7931, rucksacker.com

Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, southernlaughter.co.nz

QUEENSTOWN

YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street. +64 3442 7400, yha.co.nz

Base Discovery Lodge Queenstown 49 Shotover St. +64 3441 1185, stayatbase.com

YHA Queenstown Lakefront 88- 90 Lake Esplanade. +64 3442 8413 yha.co.nz bus tours

Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, bungibackpackers.co.nz

Kiwi Experience +64 9366 9830 kiwiexperience.com

Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. +64 3443 7341, cardrona.com Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. +64 3442 5494, flamingkiwi@xtra.co.nz

RENTAL FIRMS Ace Rental Cars 1800 140 026, acerentalcars.com.nz

Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 447 363, exploremore.co.nz Econo Campers +64 9275 9919, econocampers.co.nz Escape Rentals 1800 456 272 escaperentals.co.nz Explore More 1800 800 327 dcrentals.com.nz Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736, jucy.com.nz Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, rentadent.co.nz Rental Car Village +64 9376 9935, hire-vehicles.co.nz

Magic Travellers Network +64 9358 5600, magicbus.co.nz

Spaceships 1300 139 091, spaceships.tv

Nakedbus.com 0900 62533, nakedbus.com

Standby Cars 1300 789 059, standbycars.com.au

NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966, travelpass.co.nz

Wicked Campers 1800 246 869, wickedcampers.com

This card is

able

not transfer

ion

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NZLISTINGS

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

MILFORD SOUND One of the most beautiful places in New Zealand (and there’s some serious competition!), Milford Sound is definitely worth the mission to the country’s south-west. Indeed the drive there is as spectacular as the destination – all winding roads, gaping drops, dense woodland and crashing waterfalls. Once there, head out onto the water and keep your eyes peeled for seals and penguins.

With 45+ New Zealand hostels, you can walk the wild places or stroll into the bush for a picnic and still get a great night’s sleep. YHA have got your accommodation sorted. Easy as.

r for yous n o i t a ture mod accom aland adven e New Z ess acc irect to Book d r savings: e memb 2 191 4 1800 2 ha.co.nz y @ k o bo .co.nz or yha

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OZWORK

@tnt_downunder

I sought the law Why pull beers or lift heavy things when you could work in the legal sector for better pay and a chance at a sponsorship? WORDS HUGH RADOJEV

So, you’ve come to Australia with nothing but a backpack full of swimmers and enough quid in your back pocket for 20 or 30 litres of cask wine and some instant noodles? Enjoy yourself now because the honeymoon won’t last forever. As you may have noticed, Australian cities like Sydney and Melbourne are among the most expensive places to live in the whole world and, unless you’re a distant relative of the Queen or something, your parents are unlikely to keep forking over the sterling so you can lounge around in the sun doing nothing on the job front. Don’t fret though, because if you’ve got yourself a Working Holiday visa you needn’t spend your nights polishing glasses in a dingy bar. With a little fortitude and a hard working ethos you can carve yourself out a fulfilling temp job in the legal sector with good pay and plenty of opportunities for sponsorship. You don’t even need a legal degree from Oxford or Cambridge either (although, if we’re being honest, it helps). While many legal secretary jobs will advertise asking for two to three years experience in applicants, there are always 88

exceptions to the rule and the best way to get a foot in the door in this industry is to get yourself on the books at a good temp agency, like Legal Personnel. “To work with our agency, the qualifications needed are a minimum of six months’ legal experience or a law degree,” said Sally Higham from Legal Personnel, which nearly prompted sad faces until she added, “Or a valid Working Holiday visa and Australian Tax File Number.” Success! Jobs available to backpackers on a temporary basis in the legal sector include things like legal secretaries (known as paralegals in the UK) and the much under-appreciated role of assistant clerk (known lovingly amongst barristers as ‘gophers’ or ‘runners’). You could even find yourself working in the mailroom, on reception, or in the catering department. The big law firms don’t like to see their barristers go hungry, after all. Don’t sniff derisively, though, because the average pay rates for a legal secretary run between $24 and $32 per hour + superannuation. Eye watering numbers to be sure. I can relate from personal experience that gophers can expect

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The thickly bound spine of the law

ON THE JOB Here are a few tips for when you actually get your job:

• Ensure you understand the role and that it is suited to your skills and qualifications.

• Become best friends with the receptionist and the head clerk. You’ll thank us later!

• The legal world all seem to dress like they’re in an

episode of Mad Men. That means suits for the gents and a trouser suit for the ladies. Also try and keep your piercings and tattoos to yourself.

• If you’re employed as a runner, you’ll basically just be ferrying briefs from the firm to the courthouse. Low to medium levels of fitness may be required.

• Legal secretaries are the unsung heroes of the law

world. Don’t expect a lot of thanks.

• Many barristers are middle-aged, balding, fat men

with an inflated sense of self-worth. They are pretty good at buying ‘the help’ expensive lunches though.

• A half-windsor is the only acceptable tie knot. anywhere between $18 to $25 an hour, more than enough dough to keep your Saturday nights soaked in wine and MSG-flavoured hot water. “With the unemployment rate so low and the skills shortage across the legal industry, there has been great demand for legal temps in all states,” explains Sally Higham. With a main office in Sydney, Legal Personnel also have a large online recruitment reach, offering jobs right around Australia and in New Zealand. An agency like Legal Personnel represents one of the surest and thus best ways to get yourself into a temporary job within the legal sector. Once you do have your foot in the door at a law firm and you’ve proven yourself to be worth their time, they almost all offer training to their staff, so you don’t need to be an expert in the vagaries of the Australian common law system when you start. As mentioned earlier, temp jobs in the legal sector offer excellent opportunities for future sponsorship, as long as you are willing to put in the hard work. In my experience a legal firm will be loathe to let you go if you’re a hard worker and they’ve invested some time and effort into training you up. After that it’s only up and up for you in your new legal career. Then perhaps one day you can fly your folks out and show just how well you’re doing without them. To learn more head to legalpersonnel.com.au TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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TOTALLYTRIVIAL

@tnt_downunder

WHO TO BLAME

AND THEIR FAVE ROADTRIP SONG

ACTING EDITOR

ANDREW WESTBROOK (“The Passenger”)

DEPUTY ED

INTERN

REGINA NEUMEYER (“Bohemian Rhapsody”)

AUSSIE AUSTRALIA SOUTH RULES FOOTBALL QUIZ a) 1901 c) 1790

INTERN

RORY PLATT (“Around The World”)

a) Three million c) One million

ACCOUNT MANAGER

TOBY LLEWELLYN (“California Dreamin’”)

are best known for producing what? a) Wine b) Salt c) Dairy d) Olive oil

Q 5. South Australia is also known as the

DESIGN & PRODUCTION LISA FERRON (“Paradise City”)

WHAT WE DID THIS FORTNIGHT

3. What’s the capital of South Australia? a) Adelaide b) Port Lincoln c) Whyalla d) Capital City

“ – “ state? a) Festival State c) Hairy State

3 9

8 4

GOT STUCK IN TOKYO GOING TO LONDON, THERE ARE WORSE PLACES TO SPEND A DAY

2 4

a) Cricket c) Rugby league

b) Aussie rules d) Lawn bowls

Q 9. What is the state’s main floral emblem? a) Sturt’s Desert Pea b) Magnolia c) Slater’s Sunflower d) Southern Daisy

7 6

is the most popular sport in Q 8.theWhat state?

“DRONGO”

a) 1654 b) 1802 c) 1892 d) 1902

AUSSIE-ISM

KICKED OFF SOUTH AUSTRALIAN MONTH WITH A BUNCH OF COOL STUFF – WE LOVE SA SENT OUR LITTLE GERMAN INTERN, REGGIE, ON HER FIRST TRIP DOWN TO VICTORIA. SHE CAN CONFIRM THAT MELBOURNE IS AWESOME!

b) Happy State d) Chutney State

SUDOKU PUZZLE 9

6. The northern part of the state is almost entirely made up of? a) Lakes b) Desert c) Farmland d) Forest

South Australian coastline was Q 7.firstThemapped in?

b) 500,000 d) Five million

Q 4. The Barossa Valley and Adelaide Hills

MARKETING + EVENTS EXECUTIVE

GEORGINA PENGELLY (“Sweet Home Alabama”)

b) 1834 d) 1965

is the approximate population Q 2.of What the state as of 2012?

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT TOM WHEELER (“Down Under”)

What year was South Australia Q 1.founded as a state?

ANSWERS: 1. a 2. c 3. a 4. a 5. a 6. b 7. b 8. b 9. a

HUGH RADOJEV (“Gone Till November”)

An idiotic, foolish or stupid person. Said to originate from a 1920s racehorse that failed to win a single race in its entire career: “Stop carrying on like a bloody drongo!”

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