TNT Magazine: New Zealand

March-April 2012 Issue 88 tntdownunder.com

WUINNG!Y

AB PACKAGE WORTH $2,400

ICE,, ICE BABY The west coast glaciers

TOP TRAMPS ENDLESS SUMMER

NZ’s nine Great Walks

Soaking up the Bay of Islands

Y R O T C A F R FEA nd Wanaka a n w to s n e Q ue lin thr ills in a n e r d a t s scar ie Brav ing the

The original Kiwi Experience, since 1989 100% awesome Kiwi Driver Guides Stacks of inclusions and exclusive discounts Get immersed in nature, adventure and kiwi culture

DIGG

Phone 09 336 4286 or www.kiwiexperience.com

www.k

GGING IT!

ww.kiwiexperience.com

IF YOU VISIT JUST ONE SHOP IN NEW ZEALAND MAKE IT THIS ONE

ST / 09 303 2949 AUCKLAND 5284HIGHK ROAD / 09 379 2509 CASHEL MALL / 377 2949 CHRISTCHURCH S3&4 PALMS MALL / 03 385 2949 DUNEDIN 355 GEORGE ST / 03 479 2949 ST / 04 801 6970 WELLINGTON 97179CUBA CUBA ST / 04 894 6971 131 MANNERS ST / 04 801 6972

www.cosmicnz.co.nz

ANDREW WESTBROOK EDITOR editor@tntdownunder.com

EDITOR’S LETTER Well folks, summer is nearly drawing to a close and it’s not quite time to start clipping on the snowboards, which means you’ve got two choices – either head somewhere warm or start doing stuff to keep warm. Luckily, New Zealand is happy to oblige with both those things. Want longer on the beach?

Then Northland is for you (see p24). Otherwise, strap yourself in and get ready for the ride of your life (see p8, 26 and 30).

THIS WEEK NZ DIARY TRAVEL

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COMPETITION

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WORK

40

LISTINGS TRANSPORT

42

LISTINGS NORTH ISLAND

44

LISTINGS SOUTH ISLAND

56

LISTINGS TRAVELLING ON

64

TRIVIAL PURSUITS

66

FEATURES

8

FEAR FACTORY

8

We pick our favourite thrill-seeking activities from Queenstown and Wanaka

ROCKET BOYS

16

Chatting to the Manc maestros, Elbow, ahead of their Kiwi gig

THE LOST WORLD

16

22

A TNT reader tells us about going deep into the dark Waitomo caves

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

24

Exploring the Northland’s Bay of Islands, from the adventure to the culture

AMAZING GLACIER

26

An adventure of a lifetime exploring the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers

TRACK AND FIELD

30

Get those boots ready to make tracks.

We list the nine Great Walks of NZ

SAIL OF THE CENTURY Cruising around Fiji’s tranquil and friendly northern island, Vanua Levu

34

26

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NZDIARY EDITORIAL Editor Andrew Westbrook Staff writer Alex Harmon Editorial assistant Leigh Livingstone Contributors Damian Hall | Joanna Tilley | Katya Holloway | Rachel Pinder | Carol Driver | Amy Richardson

follow us on follow us on @tnt_downunder @tnt_downunder

Catch them if you can

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Design and production manager Lisa Ferron SALES Sales manager Tom Wheeler Account manager Justin Steinlauf Sales executive Caroline Ward MARKETING & EVENTS Associate publisher Denise Jinks Marketing assistants Lea Pahne

TNT MULTIMEDIA LTD CEO Kevin Ellis Chairman Ken Hurst Australasia general manager Vicky Harris PUBLISHER TNT Multimedia Limited PRINTED BY Rural Press PICTURES Getty Images | Thinkstock | TNT Images | Tourism New Zealand | Tourism Fiji TNT Magazine , 126 Abercrombie Street, Chippendale, Sydney, NSW 2008 tntdownunder.com General enquiries Phone +61 2 8332 7500 Fax +61 2 9690 1314 Email enquiries@tntdownunder.com SALES ENQUIRIES

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Rugby isn’t just a national pastime in NZ, it’s a way of life – and the sport of the nation fires up its 2012 season between March and April. Games are played in South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, with teams from all three countries creating a must-see competition that adds fuel to their good-natured rivalry. You can get tickets to live games in Hamilton, Dunedin, Auckland, New Plymouth and Christchurch for an experience to remember, or check them out for free on screens at the local pubs. See superxv.com FREE

March/April

NZ COMEDY FESTIVAL [AUCKLAND]

ARROWTOWN AUTUMN FESTIVAL

WARBIRDS OVER WANAKA AIRSHOW [MANGAKINO]

With a jam-packed line-up including veteran and newby comedians, this laugh-aminute event is guaranteed to give you a giggle. The shows will take place in Auckland and Wellington, and then hit the road.

Tickets on sale March 8.

Celebrating all things autumnal, this small-village festival boasts arts and crafts as well as farmers’ markets.

The sleepy little town of Arrowtown, near Queenstown, comes alive with a free street parade and a whole programme of reasonably priced events.

Stunning alpine scenery is the setting for this jaw-dropping aviation spectacular held north of Queenstown. Over the Easter weekend, the aerobatics won’t be the only excitement, also on offer is local food and wine. Tickets from $50 for a one-day pass.

April 27Auckland/Wellington comedyfestival.co.nz

April 20-29 Arrowtown arrowtown.com

April 6-8 Wanaka Airport warbirdsoverwanaka.com

FREE

$TBC

TNT Magazine is printed on paper from sustainable forests.

There is no business connection between the proprietors of this magazine and TNT Ltd, the worldwide transportation group. TNT Magazine does not assume responsibility for unsolicited submissions – material is sent at the owner’s risk. TNT Magazine accepts advertising material and other contributions in good faith, and takes no responsibility for claims, errors or omissions.

Copyright here and abroad of all original materials is held by TNT Magazine. Reproduction in whole or part is forbidden, except with permission of the publishers.

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$50

NZDIARY

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NATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL

Dance like a flamingo

This is the longest-running jazz festival in the Southern Hemisphere, and headlining 2012 are the iconic Earth, Wind & Fire. The “Boogie Wonderland” funkers are performing at a special one-off concert to mark the 50th anniversary birthday bash of this soul-tastic event. Reason enough to groove on over to Tauranga and check it out. Besides the smooth concert series there are exhibitions and plenty of free events to keep you entertained. On Saturday and Sunday, the festival takes to the streets of Tauranga to showcase some swinging jazz to the masses for free. Ticket prices are per concert and venue but multi-passes can be purchased for discounted rates. For more information, log on to the website below.

Photos: Getty Images

FREE

April 5-9 Tauranga jazz.org.nz

WOMAD [TARANAKI]

NEWTOWN FESTIVAL The Newtown Festival is an annual celebration of one of Wellington’s most vibrant and diverse communities. The first Sunday in March is reserved for the World of Food and Music – Street Fair Day, an exciting highlight of the festival, definitely not to be missed. The rest of the event is filled with outdoor concerts across eight stages, featuring more than 70 performers. There are two fairground sites and 350 stalls to keep you busy.

FREE

The World of Music Arts and Dance (WOMAD) showcases world music from around the globe for three whole days. Don’t forget to check out the Global Village, full of art and craft market stalls and eclectic food. Dig out your camping gear to really get into the festival spirit. Tickets start from just NZ$99 for a one-day pass (or NZ$236 for a three-day pass plus $54 for camping). $99

March 16-18 Bowl of Brooklands, New Plymouth

PASIFIKA The festivities at Pasifika kick off with an opening night concert in Auckland. The next day, the park gets a huge make-over into 10 “villages”, each representing an individual Pacific Island. There is also traditional food on offer as well as 10 different musical performances from different cultures. Best of all, it’s free.

taft.co.nz/womad

February 20-March 20 Newtown, Wellington newtownfestival.org.nz

FLAVOURS IN THE BAY

GYPSY TRAVELLER FAIR

MAORI ART AND KAI FESTIVAL

The Bay of Plenty is putting on a spread to tempt you with this wine and food festival. The best local produce across 20 stalls are on offer with NZ’s top wines. For one day only, it’s okay to stuff yourself while kicking back and listening to local musicians.

The original wanderers are rolling into Hamilton town to showcase all things gypsy for two days. Grab yourself a henna tattoo, indulge in some arts and crafts or simply enjoy the live entertainment and learn about different cultures.

This cultural festival is the fun lead-up to a monster marathon race along Ninety Mile Beach. Stock up on as much Maori food as you can before going to watch the poor soles (geddit) race across the sand in honour of kiwi athlete Te Houtaewa.

March 3-4 Innes Common, Hamilton jazz.org.nz

March 13-16 Kaitaia 90milebeachrun.com

FREE

March 9-10 Lakeside Park, Auckland events.aucklandnz.com

$35

March 10 Blake Park, Bay of Plenty bayofplentytimes.co.nz/ flavoursinthebay

FREE

FREE

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Get ready to screeeem...

Photos: Canyon Swing, AJ Hackett

The war on terror What is it with Kiwis? No other nationality takes such pleasure in flinging their visitors into deep canyons. And most of the sadists, it seems, call Queenstown and Wanaka home...

WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK

To say that Kiwis are outdoor types is a gross understatement. While travelling around New Zealand you will meet locals who get up in the morning for a surf, then squeeze in a spot of rockclimbing at lunch-time and maybe paddle off for a sea kayak at sunset. At the weekend they will be stuffing their packs and heading into the mountains for some serious trekking adventures.

However, it’s not just about checking out the view. New Zealand is the 8

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adrenalin capital of the Southern Hemisphere, if not the world, and the locals love nothing more than inventing new ways to scare the hell out of themselves – and you. It’s the birthplace of commercial bungy jumping after all.

And it just so happens that two of the country’s prettiest towns, neighbouring Queenstown and Wanaka, are also two of its craziest, with Queenstown in particular being the ultimate fear factory.

The area is not just the mainstream home of bungy jumping, but also provides almost endless opportunities for whitewater rafting, jetboating, skydiving, canyoning and a whole heap of things you haven’t even heard of yet.

Indeed, we could have filled this entire magazine talking about every single thrill available in these two towns. But instead, we decided to select our all-time favourites... ››

Photos: Canyon Swing, AJ Hackett

THE NEVIS BUNGY

KAWARAU BUNGY

THE EXPERIENCE: Tell anybody you’ve been to Queenstown and their first question will probably be: “Did you do the Nevis?” It’s without a doubt the area’s adrenalin daddy. And – considering Queenstown is the thrillseeking capital of New Zealand, if not the world – that means no selfrespecting mentalist can leave without first taking on the massive 134m plunge.

Testament to the fact that size really does matter, the Nevis is a monster.

Created by legendary bungy pioneer AJ Hackett, it’s New Zealand’s highest bungy, giving you about eight seconds of freefall as you plummet towards the Nevis River. But this jump is not merely a big drop. The whole setup inspires fear.

From the 4WD trip up to the base (“how high are we going?!”), we’re then put into an open air cable car that trudges us slowly to the middle of the canyon.

There, swinging precariously in the wind, suspended by a few wires, is the bungy cabin. Standing inside, it’s hard to do anything but stare through the glass sections of the floor at the canyon below. It feels like there’s no escape.

Except down. Blood-curdling screams coming from those making a quick exit from the hut, and the nearby Nevis Arc jump ledge, add to the torture chamber atmosphere. I curse myself for being a skinny bastard (meaning I have to wait longer to jump). I have to make do with watching others hop to their fate, fear written across their faces. It doesn’t help, but like a car crash it’s impossible to tear my eyes away. My turn finally arrives, the terror of waiting only to be replaced by the terror of now having to jump. My feet are strapped on as I grin nervously at the camera. Suddenly there’s nothing between me and the drop. Standing on the edge, my toes nudge over. And then I go. Ohhhhhh yeeeeeessssss! All fear is gone as soon as I’m away, screaming as I fly through the air. I run out of breath and then scream some more as I carry on falling.

For pure, unadulterated thrills, this is as extreme as it gets. AW COST: One jump is $260, but there are big discounts if you combine it with other AJ Hackett jumps.

INFO: bungy.co.nz

THE EXPERIENCE: The Nevis might feel like the adrenalin daddy, but in reality it’s more like the crazy kid. That’s because its biological daddy is just down the road. The Kawarau is where it all began.

It’s where bungy pioneers AJ Hackett and Henry van Ash started the world’s first commercial bungy jump. The 43m high bridge may not sound much in comparison to the giant 134m Nevis, but when you’re stood on that ledge, a jump is a jump. AW COST: One jump is $180, but there are big discounts if you combine it with other AJ Hackett jumps.

INFO: bungy.co.nz

The Nevis. Gulp

CANYONING THE EXPERIENCE: Why, oh why can’t I keep my mouth shut? You know that kid at school who always put his hand up first, but never knew the answer?

Well, that was me. “Me Miss, me Miss.

I know. Is it Denmark, Miss?” “No, Damian,” – weary sigh – “it’s cheese.”

The worst thing is, I haven’t changed.

Bedecked in helmet, wet suit and large cushion-nappy thing, I’m standing at the top of a 12m waterfall. “Right,” says Alister, our guide, “we can abseil down this waterfall, or...” he adds, with a challenging twinkle in his eye, “you can jump.” My head says, “jump?

I’d rather extract my teeth with a shotgun.” But my arm is in the air and my mouth has made some noises that sound very much like, “Yeah, okay then.” Everyone else has abseiled down and is staring up at me with looks that say, “he’s going to chicken out. Or become a lump of jelly.” I had to jump soon – bungy jumping has taught me that time is the enemy of courage.

So I shut my eyes and step out... Fear factor conquered, we jumped from another five ridiculously high ledges into swirling black pools. Canyoning is sensational and exhausting fun. DH COST: Full-day trips start at $240.

INFO: deepcanyon.co.nz TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Jumping the Kawarau

LUGING THE EXPERIENCE: So what is this luging? Basically, it involves going way up high, getting in a sledge with wheels and driving like a lunatic (if you so choose) down the hillside.

But it is so much more than this. After we were fully trained in the art of luging – push to go faster, pull to slow down (no mucking around then) – we started off tentatively with the ‘scenic run’. The first ride, supposedly to settle you in, was one of the most liberating and exhilarating experiences of my life. No lie. It was certainly not for pussies and letting rip around those corners was the ultimate experience for any adrenalin junkie. At the bottom a ski lift is waiting to take you up to begin your next ride, where I enjoyed the ultimate climax by unexpectedly lifting off the ground, James Bond-style. Granted seeing me stuffed into a tiny cart, dishevelled hair akimbo with a demonic glint in my eye is not what you typically associate Bond girls with, but all the same, it was a jump with definite Bond-esque qualities.

WHITEWATER RAFTING Although I survived my airborne adventure I nearly came a cropper a few corners on when I realised it was possible to THE EXPERIENCE: “Hey, yeah, high fives all round! Well done tip these babies up. Fortunately I managed to avoid total catastrophe and obliteration when I came thudding back to those at the front, great job guys. Pity about that American safety instead of the full flip and roll. Note to future lugers fella who fell out back there, but I reckon someone’ll pick – the brakes are there for a reason, more often than not for him up. Oh, no, there he goes. Well, we’ll grab him further corners. Use them – but not too much. I finished my fifth downstream, eh?” So you want to go whitewater rafting?

Well, we couldn’t have chosen better ourselves. It’s a massively and final ride feeling like Lewis Hamilton. I was perhaps most proud that I had not been overtaken by a jumped up popular sport in NZ, and a whole heap of riotous fun – 10-year-old boy racer. JT bouncing around angry rivers in a dinghy. You can choose anything from half-day trips to three/four action-packed days COST: The gondola and one luge ride costs $33.

INFO: skyline.co.nz on the water, depending on time, cost, and how much you like wearing bright yellow crash helmets. Rivers are graded from one (your nan has a tougher time than this in the bath), all the way to six (where even the Michelin man would find it hard to stay afloat), depending on difficulty, and gradings are open to changes depending on weather conditions and water levels. There are plenty of opportunities to try it in the Queenstown area, with the Shotover, Kawarau, and Whanganui Rivers all nearby. Check with tour operators for what’s available, and where’s best for you. Then it’s just helmets on, paddles in hand, and commence girly screaming in 3, 2, 1... KH COST: Half-day trips start at $195.

INFO: queenstownrafting.co.nz Photos: Canyon Swing, TNT Images, Shotover Jet, AJ Hackett, Tourism New Zealand/Julian Apse

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CANYON SWING THE EXPERIENCE: There’s no two ways about it, some people are just plain evil. In most places they would be punished. In Queenstown, however, they get a job at Canyon Swing. Based on a ledge teetering over the Shotover River, Canyon Swing can’t boast the region’s biggest freefall – but there’s no doubt these guys are the masters of playing with your mind. If you’re looking to get scared shitless, these psychos are hard to beat. Indeed anywhere else, jumping off a 109m cliff to drop 60m would be deemed scary enough. But not for these demented bastards. Oh no. The swingers have devised a whole variety of devious ways in which you can fling yourself towards the waiting rocks below, helpfully ranked on a scale of underpants, with one being merely scary and five being “very, very, very scary”. It’s at times like these that writing for TNT rapidly transforms from a dream job into a living nightmare. Harnessed up I walk towards the two grinning sadists, supposedly “jumpmasters”, waiting by the ledge.

“So what style are you gonna jump then, Mr TNT?” says Sadistic Bastard Number One (SB1). Cunningly trying a bit of reverse psychology I boldly go straight for one of the five underpants options – the tantalisingly-named Gimp Boy Goes To Hollywood (best you don’t ask). “Nah, I don’t think so,” he replies, before his sidekick, SB2, helpfully adds, “let’s chuck him down backwards”. And so there I stand, my heels over the edge. SB1 pulls me in and out over the edge, again and again, while SB2 regales me with horror stories. It feels like I’m there a lifetime. Forget bungy jumps and skydives, I don’t remember ever being this scared. My legs visibly shaking I’m then told I can go when I want. Expecting it to be the next prank, I gingerly step back. But this time there’s no joke and I’m gone, flying through the air at 150km/hr.

My shockingly girly scream soon transforms into howls of delight as the swing arcs across the canyon for 200m. The mixture of relief, elation and excitement is second to none.

The SBs make me do it two more times, once in gimp-mode and once again backwards, only this time with a bin on my head. Yes, a bin. Eventually, I manage to stagger away and escape, in desperate need of a new adrenal gland. Shaking I might be, but I can’t stop grinning. AW COST: Frist swing $199. Extra jumps $39 each.

INFO: canyonswing.co.nz

JETBOATING THE EXPERIENCE: A New Zealand farmer by the name of Bill Hamilton was sitting on his land one day, bemoaning the fact he couldn’t visit a lot of his property due to low water levels. Rather than whingeing like the proverbial Pom, he decided to do something about it, striking upon the idea of attaching a jet engine to the back of his boat – and the adrenalin activity of jetboating was born. These babies ain’t to be messed with. They get their speed by sucking up and spitting out water through a nozzle, can operate in less that 10cm of water and perform splash-inducing 360° spins at the drop of a hat. Commercial jetboating is based around scaring the bejesus out of the customers by steaming up to craggy cliffs, trees or riverbanks, before just avoiding them with a nudge of the steering wheel. Chuck in a few twists and turns and the stomach-churning 360s and you’ve got one of the best times you can have with a life jacket on. KH COST: Rides cost $119.

INFO: shotoverjet.com

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SKYDIVING THE EXPERIENCE: I was a quivering wreck. I could feel my palms getting sweaty and my legs tensed up as the reality of what I was about to do dawned on me. The last dregs of saliva were disappearing from my mouth. It was a painful waiting game; the agony of having to wait around on the ground for nearly an hour watching other crazy people jumping out of planes.

I started thinking to myself, “there’s still time to back out”, and “maybe they won’t have a jumpsuit to fit me” but all the excuses circling round in my head were quickly obliterated when I heard my name being called out. I felt the world stop moving. I turned cold, and felt every muscle in my body stiffen up. This was it. This was the moment I’d been dreading. And I knew I had to do it to prove to myself I could. My legs started turning to jelly and I could hardly lift them into the fetching green jump suit. The madcap guy who was filming my jump thrust a camera in my face and I laughed nervously. I put one leg out in front of me and willed myself to walk towards the plane. It seemed like the longest walk of my life. I squeezed myself in to the back of the plane in front of my instructor, Archie, and looked nervously at the 10 other faces beaming back at me.

I sat with my knees wrenched up to my chin, peering out of the window as the ground disappeared below us. My instructor Archie didn’t actually attach himself to my harness until the very last minute. I felt a bit safer once I was secured, but I kept asking him if the harness was tight enough, and he replied: “No worries, we’ve already gone through eight harnesses this week. They just keep snapping!” Just great. The moment had arrived. We’d reached 12,000ft. There was no time to think.

No time to panic. The door of the plane opened and the sound from outside was deafening. I looked like an extra from Wacko Jacko’s “Thriller” video. I watched as Natasha, who was filming my jump, climbed out of the door and hung on the outside of the plane. Next it was my turn to move. I felt my body turn to lead. I couldn’t move. What the hell was I doing? As I shuffled towards the plane door I felt the wind buffeting my face and I looked out into the clouds. My feet were dangling into nothing-ness and it felt very surreal. I couldn’t remember any of the instructions I’d been told. Suddenly Archie grabbed my head and faced me towards the camera. I was petrified. My blood was surging through my body at a million miles an hour.

My heart was throbbing. This was it. I felt myself falling forwards and then I was tumbling, hurtling round and round, faster than a speeding bullet. Oh my God, I was actually free falling, it was unreal. I was spinning round in circles towards Natasha.

My mouth was open as if I was screaming but no sound was coming out. The wind was buffeting us as we hurtled through the clouds. Then the next thing I knew the parachute opened and we shot up high into the sky. It was absolutely incredible.

Everything fell silent. The parachute ride down was so peaceful – I couldn’t hear a thing. Finally, we landed okay and I felt amazing – I wanted to go and do it again straight away. I felt like I could do anything. Bring on the next one! RP COST: Wanaka skydives cost $299 (12,000ft) or $399 (15,000ft). Queenstown skydives cost $269 (9,000ft), $329 (12,000ft) or $429 (15,000ft). INFO: skydivewanaka.com for Wanaka and nzone.biz for Queenstown

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Photos: Skydive Lake Wanaka, Frogz

Dropping in on Wanaka

RIVER BOARDING

Photos: Skydive Lake Wanaka, Frogz

THE EXPERIENCE: Wanaka is one gorgeous spot.

Mesmerising mountains and lakes are strewn around it like offerings to a gluttonous king. Though it is relatively quiet, there’s barrel loads of fun to be had. Most involve hurtling along at great speed. Ever been whitewater rafting without the raft? They do give you a mini raft/sledge thing, but whitewater sledging is still nuts. Surprisingly once you learn to go with the flow, it’s thrilling. And I actually got told off for going too fast. DH COST: Half-day trips cost $175.

INFO: frogz.co.nz

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WIN

HOW TO ENTER

Go to tntdownunder.com and click on the WIN page. See webpage for terms and conditions. Winners will be selected at random.

WIN THE ULTIMATE AJ HACKETT BUNGY PACKAGE You might have noticed that here at TNT, T we’re strong believers that a trip to New Zealand should feature some sort of death-defying adrenalin feat that, well, makes you feel just a little bit sick to think about if we’re honest.

And when it comes to those sorts of extreme activites, there’s no denying the AJ Hackett crew are the kings. We love them we do. And so, being the good buddies that we are, we’ve joined forces with them to offer one of you lucky readers (plus a mate) the chance to take on the ultimate adrenalin challenge – doing not just one of Hackett’s legendary jumps, but seven of their Kiwi experiences.

THE PRIZE INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING FOR TWO PEOPLE: KAWARAU BRIDGE BUNGY: The world’s first

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bungy, valued at $180 each. THE LEDGE BUNGY: Queenstown’s only freestyle bungy, valued at $180 each. THE LEDGE SWING: Jump from 400m above Queenstown, valued at $150 each. THE NEVIS BUNGY: New Zealand’s highest bungy, valued at $260 each. THE NEVIS SWING: The world’s biggest swing, valued at $180 each. THE AUCKLAND BRIDGE BUNGY: New Zealand’s only ocean touch, valued at $150 each. THE AUCKLAND BRIDGE CLIMB: Take a tour to the top, valued at $120 each.

Competition closes Sunday, May 27, 2012.

Log on to tntdownunder.com for further details and to enter.

worth over

$2,400

www.bungy.co.nz

0800 BUNGY JUMP TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Days like these With a new album in the works, another Brit nomination, plus their Olympics music being played to millions, 2012 promises to be a big year for Elbow. Luckily, you can catch them in NZ very soon...

WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK

To the outside world, it might appear as if Manchester fivepiece Elbow are late bloomers. After all, it was way back in 1990 that the boys from Bury first got together to form a band, and it wasn't until 2001 that they released their first studio album of five, Asleep in the Back. However, despite the introspected resonance of frontman Guy Garvey's lyrics making them the darlings of the music press, Elbow were never quite deemed to have cracked the wider public consciousness. They were instead regularly, and lazily, labelled the industry's best kept secret. Lazily because they were far from secret thanks to their first three albums still making the UK top 20. Either way, that all changed in 2008.

That was the year fourth album The Seldom Seen Kid was released, a record that launched Elbow up into the stratosphere. It won them the Mercury Prize before seeing them named best band at the Brits the following year, while a succession of other gongs served to keep their mantelpiece crowded. Now undeniably one of Britain's biggest acts, last year's Build a Rocket Boys! led to another best band nomination at last month's 2012 Brits.

The immensely down-to-earth group, however, are taking it all in their stride, as guitarist Mark Potter (pictured second from right) explains. "Our lives haven't really changed at all," he says. "Yes, we're a little bit more comfortable now, and Guy is quite famous, getting recognised probably anywhere in the UK, but what it’s done for us more than anything is allowed us to do exactly what we want to musically now."

On their recent rise, he adds, "yeah, it's accelerated over the last few years, but we were never unhappy. With the first few records we were still making a living out of music. We weren't a household name or playing arenas but we didn't have to hold down other jobs to do what we loved.

"I mean, really the success since Seldom Seen Kid, we hadn't done anything different, it just connected. It's very odd. What the five of us do in a little studio in Salford, and the places it takes us, well, we feel very privileged."

I for one am pretty relieved to discover Elbow's famously easy-going nature is not the stuff of legend. After a mix-up with times finds me taking the call several drinks into a visit to the pub, Mark shrugs off the 10-minute delay with a joke, before explaining (in a chat ahead of the Brit Awards), that "we've never really bought into the celebrity thing".

"Like with the Brits. It's lovely to be nominated, but none of us are into the glitz side of it. We'll turn up, but it's more a chance to give a little back to our wives, buy them a new frock and get them on the red carpet."

“

Writing the Olympics music was an amazing experience, a real honour and challenge

”

More importantly, the band are enjoying being back in the studio, working on both a new album, which promises to "open a new chapter", and the official BBC music for the London Olympics. "Writing the Olympics music was an amazing experience, as well as a real honour and challenge, that just made us want to get writing again," explains Mark.

"It was a different thing for us. We had a brief and a lot of meetings – we needed a sort of winning moment, crossing the finish line, and a sort of sad moment, but creatively it was very much in our court.

"It's quick soundscapey stuff. It was a joy to do as we've always wanted to do soundtracks. I think our music lends itself to that kind of thing."

Bizarrely, Elbow are also enjoying success in a very different field right now, as a Build a Rocket Boys! beer is taking Manchester's pubs by storm. "Ha, yeah, somebody seemed to think we like drinking," explains Mark. "We were invited to look around local Stockport brewery Robinsons.

It turned into quite a drunken afternoon and by the end of it we'd agreed to launch a beer! Initially it was going to be a limited edition release, but it's selling really well in a lot of Manchester bars and a lot of supermarkets."

Elbow, supported by Boy & Bear, play Auckland's Powerstation on Wednesday, March 28. Tickets cost $89. ticketmaster.co.nz

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17

HOTSHOTS

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WINNER JUMPING SHIP Richie Robertson, 24, Australia

RICHIE SAYS “This photo was taken in Halong Bay, Vietnam. My girlfriend and I had just been kayaking around the bay and the best way to cool of was to jump off our ‘junk’ boat.”

RUNNER-UP BRIGHT LIGHT CITY Ina Scharun, 20, Germany INA SAYS “This is one of my favourite pictures from my Australia collection. It was taken very early one morning at Circular Quay in Sydney.”

RUNNER-UP

WINNER

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HOT TIPS: Photography abroad

TWO NORTHLAND TOURS

Always ask permission before you take out your camera and start snapping. Be polite and smile to put your subject at ease. Don’t be put off if they decline; respectfully move on – this is bound to happen sometimes. Take your time, don’t rush – if they are happy to pose, a few extra seconds while you get your settings right won’t matter. In some places, for instance Fiji, the locals are generally very happy to have their photos taken and they take pride in being snapped. They also appreciate the photos being sent to them, so don’t be surprised if they give you their postal address after you’ve taken their picture. Research the culture of your destination so you know what’s socially acceptable.

Richie wins a Total Northland Pass for him and a friend from Magic Travellers Network (magicbus.co.nz), while runnerup Ina wins a Rough Guides (roughguides. com) book of her choice, sent to an Aussie or New Zealand address. Winners are chosen by the TNT team, with the editor’s decision being final. To enter the next Hot Shots competition, send your best travel photos (300 dpi jpegs), along with your name, age, nationality and a description, to travel@tntdownunder.com

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TRAVELTIPS

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ON THE ROAD WITH TRAVEL

TALK MARINA LAW 27, UK

YOU ASKED FOR IT...

WE ANSWER YOUR TRAVEL QUESTIONS

a lahar and should I be worried Q What’s about them while I’m in New Zealand?

Nat Danson, USA lahar is a volcanic mudflow that occurs A Awhen water from melting snow, glacier ice, or a breached lake mixes with the super-heated ash of a pyroclastic flow. Lahars are extremely dangerous due to their speed and energy, and anyone or anything caught in the path of one has little chance of survival. The last time Mt Ruapehu’s experienced a lahar was in March 2007, when an eruption caused its crater lake to burst, sending a slurry of water and ash down its slopes. There were no casualties thanks to an early warning system for such events, although a number of roads and the country’s main rail line were closed. But you needn’t worry, since then, everything has been business as usual at Mt Ruapehu, with its ski fields preparing for the upcoming season and all walking tracks open for those wanting to retrace the steps of the characters from The Lord of The Rings. Of course, this could change if an eruption is imminent,

but with the crater lake emptied there is little danger of a serious lahar anytime soon. you give me some tips on buying Q Can campervans in New Zealand?

Greetz Schmidt, Germany consider hiring a campervan if you’re A I’d spending less than a month in the country, to save you the hassle and cost of selling it at the end of your trip. To purchase, you’re best to look at the end of summer, when most people finish their travels and look to offload their vehicles (keep this in mind when you are looking to sell too). Scan hostel noticeboards and online traveller bulletin boards for bargains – many people may be leaving the country and in a rush to sell. Before purchasing, ensure the vehicle has a valid WoF (warrant of fitness) and registration, and have it inspected by a mechanic. Once you’ve made your purchase, head down to the west coast of the South Island and enjoy what has been voted one of the world’s greatest road trips. Buckle up!

This hostel in the party town of Queenstown is one of the best New Zealand has to offer. With free nightly meals, breakfast and tea and coffee, it’s a great base for all the high-adrenalin Queenstown OVERVIEW

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MOST MEMORABLE DAY? It may have been swimming with the dolphins. Or possibly my panic attack whilst skydiving.

WHERE IS YOUR FAVE NIGHT SPOT? Head to the cinema in Wanaka for a more unusual night out. There’s freshly baked cookies in the interval and a car full of cushions to watch the film from.

ANY STRANGE EXPERIENCES? My weirdest experience was finding a runaway dog in the Abel Tasman National Park and spending three hours taking it back to the owner.

I didn’t even get a thank you.

PLACE YOU’D GO BACK TO? Abel Tasman is glorious, I would love to head back there.

ANY RUN-INS WITH KIWI WILDLIFE? The men? A lady never tells!

ANY TIPS FOR NEW ARRIVALS? Do something ridiculous in a country that lets you jump off and out of anything you can think of.

CHECKING IN NOMADS QUEENSTOWN

WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN IN NZ? I have travelled from the Bay of Islands down to Wellington and I’ve almost finished going around the South Island.

sports. It also has a sauna, cinema room and free storage. Nice!

ROOMS Four and 12-bed mixed dorms, singles and doubles.

BILL PLEASE A bed in a mixed dorm from NZ$26/night.

5-11 Church St, Queenstown nomadshostels.com

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Each month our fave interview WINS a four-day Conservation Volunteers Australia experience. Email: travel@tntdownunder.com.

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21

TRAVELLERSTALE THE LOST WORLD

Teapot-shaped PAUL FRANKLIN journeyed to the centre of the Earth, abseiling into the dark Waitomo caves.

If you fancy a change from New Zealand’s usual adrenalin activities, you should try the Waitomo caves.

Meaning ‘water passing through a hole’, Waitomo is just a village with a pub, campsite, and a peculiar motel.

In the 1800s, a bunch of waistcoatwearing chaps went to investigate the land’s suitability for a railroad, and almost fell down a bloody great hole.

This sinkhole is about 100m deep, and is where my brother and I commenced our “Lost World Epic”.

We were clad in rubber wetsuits that, if condoms, would be the opposite of fetherlite, latched to a slender cable and dropped into a mossy abyss. I’ve abseiled before, but it’s different when you aren’t leaning against a sturdy wall. You’re just dangling, easing out the rope, trying to find the balance between “too slow” and “fuck, stop!”.

The Lost World hole is aptly named, since (a) you can see how someone might lose it, and (b) it’s very Jurassic Park-like, with its prehistoric age and verdant rainforest feel.

This was the beginning, the literal scratch on the surface, of a 45km stretch of limestone caves that concede 22

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the volume of a double-decker bus each year to acid erosion.

Once at the bottom, we scrambled up some hefty boulders and stopped to make amusing silhouettes against the backlit scene of the entrance behind.

My “I’m a Little Teapot” one went done well; my brother’s “Karate Kid” had been done before.

Venturing on, we saw the route we would’ve taken had it not recently rained. “Gushing” is the word. Plan B seemed preferable to drowning.

We side-stepped that via some glowworms (larvae with glow-in-thedark poop) and braved a big ladder.

After a surprisingly-arduous climb that made my forearms ache like whipping a meringue for too long, we ducked and dived and occasionally crawled until we reached a rope and a hole. We clipped on, turned around, and abseiled down a drop of unknown height whilst a gush of cold water coursed over us. You know those ‘invigorating’ shower gel adverts?

Similar, minus the minty aroma.

After I’d hit the bottom, fallen on to my arse and stood up again, I got my bearings (“I’m somewhere in a dark wet hole”) and splodged to one side. Once we were all down, grinning like soggy hyenas, the guides led us

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through more tricky channels and to another waterfall. We were made to tuck our limbs in and turn out our headlights ... then we dropped into darkness. Screaming like we were on a log flume ... without the log.

Further on, past ancient whalebones and oyster fossils, we met another waterfall. But this one we were going up. We had the option of using a ladder to the side, or climb it. I did the latter, fishing for footholds through the icy spray. The first few metres were easy enough, but near the top was an overhang, and a narrow cleft to wriggle through. The guide at the top urged me on, but I found I was hindered not only by my belt buckle snagging in the tight gap, but my right boot, filled with water, which was surprisingly heavy to lift. With one big push and a tennis-player grunt, I made it. Then I crawled through a few more passages into yet another cave, flicked off my light and enjoyed a chocolate bar in total blackness.

Eventually, after a relatively gentle ascent but still flanked by some vertiginous drops, we emerged, blinking, through a small leafy hole into the daylight. My immediate thoughts were, “I could do that all over again, right now”. But, next on the agenda was a hot shower, which I happily settled for.

Once changed, we hopped back in the van to base, the sinkhole-filled field soon seeming like just any other New Zealand farm – grassy and full of sheep, with no hint as to the awesome fun that lay ‘Lost’ beneath.

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Cape crusader Famed for its year-round climate, stunning Northland is also packed to the brim with adrenalin excitement, dolphin spotting and lashings of Maori culture. So we went exploring WORDS AMY RICHARDSON

We’re dressed in big red waterproof suits, like a tribe of Ali Gs. It’s pouring with rain as we board the boat, and the captain shouts: “I call this weather fun!” There’s a “let’s rock!” moment as he revs the engine and The Rolling Stones blast out of the speakers. The boat lurches off, bouncing over the waves, and the middle-aged woman next to me whoops loudly. The rain’s not letting up, so the captain switches tracks to “Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head”.

I’m up in Northland for a quick nature, culture and adrenalin fix. My base, Paihia, is a tiny but extremely lively little town next to one of those stunning bays NZ does so well.

From here, you can do just about any water-based activity you can dream. But for some crazy reason, I thought jet-boating sounded like a good idea.

QUICK SAND Once out of the bay and into the open ocean, the captain puts his foot down. It’s a bumpy ride, and I can’t stop the screams escaping from my lips as we slam over the waves.

Even the “too cool for school” crowd in front of me is laughing and throwing up their arms.

We make a quick stop by a jutting rock where we witness huge glittering shoals of fish eating surface plankton, then we squeeze through the hole in the rock and back out into the open ocean. We’re told we can move to the “no bar to hold” seats at the front, but I wuss out and grip the metal with white knuckles all the way back to shore.

Painfully early next morning, we set off for the top of the North Island. Our first stop is the sacred Puketi Kauri Forest.

The ancient, giant trees are up to 2,000 years old and are so huge that when one fell in a storm a few years back, there

Northern exposure NEW ZEALAND’S FAR NORTH

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was enough wood to build 11 houses. These trees are a vital part of Maori mythology – they were believed to be so strong and tall that they separated Ranginui, the sky father, from Papatuanuku, the Earth mother. Rain and dew are said to be the tears the sky and Earth cry because they miss each other.

As we pull up in front of a huge sand dune, my heart starts pounding. I’m a virgin sand-boarder, and the combination of rain and sun has packed the sand in tight, creating the fastest possible conditions. Great.

It’s a hot, hard climb to the top of the dune, and when I get up there, things look even worse. It’s a long way down and it’s damn steep.

I edge myself nervously into position, head first with my belly on the board, using my toes as brakes. This is not good.

But everyone’s watching and waiting, so I kick off and fly down the hill. Except I’m so scared I over-brake and grind to an embarrassing standstill about two thirds of the way down.

Red-faced, I jump to my feet, run to the back of the queue and puff and pant my way to the top. Feeling surer of myself this time, I give a huge kick off, blast down the dune, over a small stream and a dirt track, eventually skidding to a halt at the feet of some bemused onlookers in the car park.

AUCKLANDGETAWAY DOLPHIN DELIGHT Back on the bus, we speed through a quicksand stream on to Ninety Mile Beach. Our driver has to put his foot down to avoid the vehicle sinking.

There are tourists standing in a stream ahead, picking shells. They look up and wave at the driver, signalling for him to stop as we race towards them. “I can’t!” he yells, blowing the horn. They stare incredulously. With just moments to spare, they leap out of the way.

As we pull on to Ninety Mile Beach, a passenger asks the driver whether he can stop at a supermarket to buy a towel. The driver stares at him. The guy explains a couple of people in a bar last night told him not to take any stuff as he could buy it all on Ninety Mile Beach. The driver grins.

“I think they were pulling your leg mate,” he says. There’s nothing on the beach, no running water, no toilets and definitely no supermarket.

The stunning stretch of sand up to Cape Reinga is actually just 67 miles. And it really is breath-taking. We spend time digging up handfuls of shellfish, or pipi as they are known here, to cook back at the hostel tonight.

The next day we head out on a boat to search for dolphins. I’m feeling worse for wear after a heavy night in the bar, and we’ve been on the choppy water a long time.

I start thinking we might not be lucky today.

Luckily the crew persevere – and it pays off. We slow down and a pod comes over to investigate. Much to my disappointment, the crew establish there are nursing babies in the pod, so we can’t swim with them. However, watching them, I forget my disappointment. They are so cute and inquisitive.

They play, swimming under the front of the propellerless boat, then alongside, leaping in and out of the water and flipping over to show us their bellies. They’re brilliant, curious and playful. It’s such a wonderful experience – and I completely forget about my hangover.

TONGUE ACTION It’s a good job too because our next activity involves sitting in a traditional waka (canoe), being taught how to row and chant like a Maori warrior. Some tourists watch from the shore, so we finish off by turning and sticking out our tongues at them. As we head perilously close to a waterfall, our guide Hone tells stories of his tribe, and recites an amazing list of his ancestors leading back to Kupe, the first Maori to arrive from Polynesia.

It’s so interesting that I decide to squeeze in one final activity – a show about the history of New Zealand. Told through Maori legend and song, the performance starts with the arrival of Kupe and leads up to the arrival of the Europeans. The venue is an amazing Maori meeting house, with ornate carvings and paintings inside. At the end of the show, a Maori girl exchanges hongi (the famous nose-pressing greeting) with everyone in the front row.

I was looking for nature, adrenaline and a never-to-beforgotten cultural experience, and I’ve definitely found it in Northland. ❚

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25

Coldplay FRANZ JOSEF AND FOX GLACIERS

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NZADVENTURE

The big freeze The west coast glaciers, on the South Island, are amongst New Zealand’s must-see attractions, so wrap up warm and get ready for the adventure of a lifetime WORDS ANDREW WESTBROOK

“You’re going to love this,” declares my group’s trusty guide, Brendan, as he disappears through a narrow gap in the wall of ice. Poking his head back around, he adds, “this is a path I cut out the other day, you’ll never guess what’s at the end of it”. Several things cross my mind. After all, the landscape surrounding us is strange to say the least. Having hiked up Franz Josef Glacier for several hours, we’re stood on ice that is 70m deep and moving at a pace of between one and five metres a day.

Our entire world is made up of strange bubbly walls and bottomless holes. It’s how you’d imagine a sub-zero foam party on Superman’s planet Krypton would look, if, er, that’s the sort of thing you think about. So, I’ll be honest and admit when asked what was at the end of a secret tunnel built into a surreal world which looks like it’s made of shaving foam, to me, the answer seems obvious: ice gremlins.

COLD AS ICE

Photos: Tourism New Zealand, Legend Photography, TNT Images, Andrew Westbrook

Luckily I keep quiet. I even consider a couple more of my “what’s the craic” and “this is so cool” puns, but remember the sighs with which they were met last time. Instead, I keep these comments to myself and follow Brendan, soon discovering he’s not wrong. I absolutely love it.

Squeezing sideways through the gap in the ice, using the crampons on my boots to give me leverage, I ease my way into the path. At the end of the recently axed ice is a perfectly formed, brilliant blue tunnel spiralling upwards.

Its walls are impossibly smooth, meaning everyone slips and slides as we eagerly clamber up, one by one, to enter the chamber.

Once inside, the clarity of the colour and purity of the ice is breathtaking. I’ve never seen anything like it before, and by the time we all pop out the other end, Alice In Wonderland-style, we’re all grinning like the Cheshire Cat. Once we’re done with the excited chattering, I really take in the view and realise that a transformation has taken place. Since the moment I’d woken for my full-day glacier hike, it had been raining.

This shouldn’t come as such a surprise, though, considering I’m in a part of the world that gets a staggering amount of rain dropped on it over 200 days every year. But that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s great fun being completely soaked through.

However, the sky has gloriously cleared. The valley spans out to the right, and we can see the lush green mountainsides that frame the glacier, their steep edges being the reason why the huge ice-mounds move 10 times faster than most others in the world.

WILLING TO SACRIFICE I make it to the bottom, from where I can see the point to which the glacier extended in the last ice age, 15,000 years ago, at a time when the town of Franz Josef itself would have been up to 60m under ice.

While on either side I am confronted by towering waterfalls, in front of me is another ice tunnel, sloping downwards in a slide, like some kind of ancient geological playground.

I’ve already been having fun, despite the weather, mastering the spiky crampons until I can hop across the ice like a carefree arctic bunny. But with the sky clear and enough altitude to be able to explore the genuinely breathtaking features such as the tunnels, it really strikes home just how stunning the surroundings are.

It’s clear this is the natural beauty which inspired the Maori legends behind both the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers, which are linked forever through the tale of Hinehukatere, who loved to climb mountains and managed to persuade her beloved Tuawe to join her.

However, the story goes that the expedition ended in disaster, and Tuawe was killed by an avalanche. The spot where he finally came to rest became known as Te Moeka o Tuawe, meaning ‘the bed of Tuawe’, but has since been renamed Fox Glacier after an early Kiwi prime minister (who, incidentally, had nothing to do with mints).

A broken-hearted Hinehukatere, meanwhile, was devastated. She cried so much, the legend continues, that her tears eventually froze to form Franz Josef Glacier, or Ka Roimata o Hinehukatere, to give it its Maori name, meaning ‘the tears of Hinehukatere’.

YOU WANT PARADISE In a land of such awe-inspiring geology, where the power of the Earth is on show like few other places, it’s easy to understand how such romantic tales can capture ›› the imagination.

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27

WHAT THE HELI! FORGET YOUR BUDGET AND SEE THE GLACIER AT ITS BEST, FROM A CHOPPER

Walking up the glacier is great, but if you’ve got cash freezing a hole in your pocket, then the heli-hike is hard to beat.

After a nervous night worrying about the weather, I wake up to a crisp blue sky. We’re in action.

Before I know it, I’m kitted up and jogging, with my head down, towards the chopper. Almost immediately the helicopter is up and away, zooming towards the Franz Josef glacier.

With my helmet on and the pilot chatting away in my ear, I try to play it cool (after all, this is as close as I’ll get to being Ice Man from Top Gun... not counting the occasional game of homo-erotic beach volleyball, of course).

It’s not long before the ice field is directly below us, and, as if that pesky Maverick is trying to cut us off, we hug one side before suddenly banking sharply to the left, crossing the glacier to take a closer look at a giant waterfall crashing down from the cliffs above.

From the air, the ice doesn’t actually look that big. That is until I spot some tiny dots. These dots are people, and the glacier is, in fact, massive. Before I know it, we’re tearing down towards them, and it turns out they are the other half of our group, who came up in the first chopper.

There’s no landing pad here, and rope ladders, it seems, aren’t an option, so we just crunch straight down on to the ice. With the blades spinning at a deafening rate, we touch down just long enough for us all to jump out and join the others in the middle of a giant ice field. It really does feel like we’re in the middle of a lunar-like warzone. We’re ordered to crouch down and cover our eyes from the ice being blown everywhere by our transport. I manage to resist the urge to stand up defiantly, declaring: “Ah, I love the smell of ice in the morning.” Maybe next time. Instead I make do with joining my group while humming the tune to “Take My Breath Away”.

From there, we get our spikes on and set off to explore for a few hours, marvelling that not only is flying in helicopters just about the coolest way to get around, but that thanks to being dropped off halfway up the glacier, we’re away from the crowds and next to some of the most exciting caves and tunnels.

While admittedly far from the cheapest trip you’ll ever do, the heli-hike is like a two-for-one deal, as you get the best glacier walk possible, with an exciting scenic flight thrown in for good measure. Many travellers rate it as one of the best things they’ve done in New Zealand, and I’m inclined to agree.

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And, for me, taking in the sheer scale of the glacier around us, it’s clear that it’s been worth signing up for the full-day hike, rather than just a halfday, which I’ve done before.

The half-day is more of a taster for what scaling a glacier feels like, but essentially you trek up part of the ice, then walk back down again, heading to base just as it starts getting interesting.

But, in comparison, those extra few hours on the full-day hike make all the difference. The deeper into the glacier I get, the more extreme the terrain becomes. Soon, I’m sidestepping past huge crevasses, having to use ropes to pull myself up ice walls, then exploring the surreal world of the caves, while Brendan is just a few steps ahead, hacking out our path like a crazed ice pick-wielding woodpecker.

Our time is eventually up, however, and we have to start hopping our way back down to the valley floor.

But while we’re all tired, aching and absolutely soaked, there’s no doubt we’re all as content as a bunch of ice gremlins with a new Mr Frosty machine. ❚

DIVE ANOTHER DAY TEST YOUR NERVE WITH NZ’S HIGHEST SKYDIVE

While in Franz Josef, don’t make the mistake of thinking the small, alpine town is a one-trick pony, only concerned with getting you up on the glaciers. It also likes dropping you from a plane above the ice and it happens to be where you can do the highest tandem skydive in New Zealand – from a giant 18,000ft. Check out skydivefranz.co.nz for info.

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The nine Great Walks NEW ZEALAND

What a tramp New Zealand might just be the best country in the world for hiking, and where else to start but with those routes known simply, and for good reason, as the nine Great Walks?

WORDS DAMIAN HALL

Why would you go for a walk voluntarily? We use our feet every day, as a necessary means of transport: to the bus, to the hostel, to the pub (then, if we’re lucky, to someone else’s hostel). Walking can be boring, slow and it makes your feet smell. It’s a chore, like cleaning your teeth or wiping your bum. It’s certainly not something to be enjoyed and not something you’d ever choose to do, especially on holiday.

That was my mentality before I came to New Zealand.

But New Zealand changed my life.

As I campervanned around the South Island I fell head over heels for the scenery. Those dashing Southern Alps, those glowing glacial lakes and mysterious fiords, ancient moss-strewn forests, moody volcanoes, rugged coastline and thundering waterfalls. You’d imagine if they ever filmed, say, The Lord Of The Rings, this would be the perfect setting for it. It’s like a fantasy land. Go on, tell me a country as beautiful. Even if you think you can name one, I bet that; A, it’s not nearly as safe, B, it’s much more crowded, and C, they talk funny there (okay, jandles is pretty funny, but funny as in you can’t understand them ‘cos they’re proper foreign).

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I’ve never been hypnotised before. But when I saw the mountains, lakes and fiords, I found myself leaving my campervan almost involuntarily and walking towards it.

And into it. For several days. Okay, I turned the engine off and acquired a map first, but otherwise my movements were almost entirely beyond my control. I had to experience the landscape up close, to touch it, admire it, clamber all over it and lick it. This is not a country to be admired solely from behind a bus window.

TRACK RECORD Walking gripped me like a fever. By the time I’d left Kiwi Country, I’d walked the three-day Kepler Track, the threeday Queen Charlotte Track, the five-day Rees-Dart Track (a great one for crowd dodging), the three-day Tongariro Northern Circuit, the two-day Ball Pass Crossing (in Mt Cook National Park), part of the Routeburn (guttingly had to turn back with an abscess on my tooth which made me look like the ugly one from The Goonies), part of the Abel Tasman Coastal Track and numerous more day walks. It’s fair to say

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GREATESCAPE

Admiring Mt Aspiring from the Routeburn Track

I’d discovered I liked walking, or hiking, or trekking, or tramping – as they call it here.

There are lots of things to like about tramping: it’s very cheap, it’s very healthy, you get off the tourist trail somewhat, meet real Kiwis and lots more very likeable people (outdoor people are always good people). It’s peaceful (being away from traffic fumes and bleating communication devices, and your days are wonderfully simple – just walk from A to B), but above all it’s very, very beautiful. Yes you get wet sometimes. Yes you get blisters occasionally. Yes you can get lost from time to time too.

But boy have I seen some incredibly beautiful places in New Zealand, and often had them entirely to myself. I’ve enjoyed them all the more for knowing I’ve earned the right to see them, putting in the hard yards on foot.

At the same time as I was falling for my new hobbyturned-obsession, I was falling for New Zealand. Because the country the same size as Britain, that looks like an upside-down cut-in-half Italy, is an especially good place for walking. Probably the best place in the world in fact (I’ve since walked in many more countries too).

HIT THE HUT As well as all the natural splendour, the country’s so safe and easy to travel in. It’s almost like NZ was built for trampers. In fact it sort of is. The Department of Conservation (DoC) has created and maintained a series of multi-day walking routes in the most spectacular parts of

the best national parks. The paths are usually clear to follow and lined with surprisingly fancy huts (with toilets, cooking facilities, drinking water etc) for trampers to rest their weary heads and smelly socks in (camping is also available), and play cards and drink wine in with like-minded souls. Not many countries have a hut system like this. Every country should do it.

Nine walks in particular have been adjudged to be the best of the bunch and are called the Great Walks (see boxout), even if, um, one of them’s a kayaking trip. The nine are the most popular and include what some say is the most spectacular trail in the world, the Milford Track (which usually takes three days). The Fiordland tramp is so popular people come from the world over to walk it and it’s booked up many months in advance. On all the Great Walks, numbers are limited and a booking system is in operation (see doc.govt.nz for more). Locals will tell you the nearby Routeburn is even better, but again book well ahead, especially in peak season (December-February).

My favourite memories of New Zealand are of hiking.

Of climbing smoking volcanoes, of mist clearing to reveal gaping fiords, of devastating snow-covered mountains, of drying out clothes by a fire with new friends, of feeling exhausted but exhilarated and of feeling very happy.

Nowadays, whenever I have free time all I want to do is go for a walk in the countryside. I used to be a football journalist, now I mostly write about the great outdoors.

And I’ve got New Zealand to thank for that. What a place. ❚ TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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Taking a breather on the Abel Tasman Track

Home sweet home. A hut on the Kepler Track

EQUIPMENT AND SAFETY

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brings. Make sure you do your research. Talk to locals, or better still the Department of Conservation (DoC) and heed any warnings. Plus, always tell someone where you’re going – leave an itinerary with a friend (DoC have a good system in place for this). And of course, it’s hard to drink too much water or wear too much sunscreen.

It may feel like you’re being molly-coddled by an especially protective Grandmother, but to experience the country’s profoundly beautiful scenery, and return safely to show off your photos, all the hassles are well worth it.

For more info, try the Department of Conservation website (doc.govt.nz). You may also enjoy reading Kiwi Tracks, a book about a guy who walks all nine Great Walks while dealing with a broken heart.

Photos: Thinkstock, Tourism New Zealand/Julian Apse

Didn’t count on doing any tramping when you packed your round-the-world bag, but now you fancy a go? The most important thing is comfortable footwear, which doesn’t have to be walking boots (sometimes trainers will do), but they’re you best bet. New Zealand is well stocked with good gear and most towns have outdoor shops. You’ll also need a waterproof jacket, ideally Gore-Tex or equivalent, to allow your body to sweat. Plus, get a water bottle (plastic bottles will do), sleeping bag and mat, a map (DoC can provide these) and compass (which you should know how to use), some food, basic first aid (plasters, pain killers and antiseptic cream) and something to carry all that in (your backpack?). And you’re set. Most hostels are happy to look after any kit you don’t want to take on your hike – and the lighter your pack the more you’ll enjoy yourself.

Though New Zealand has no grizzly bears, crocs or snakes to threaten the tramper, there is a serious and often underestimated outdoor adversary: the weather.

Referred to as having “five seasons in one day” by locals, the climate changes faster than you can say “jandles”.

Needless to say, being a weather reporter here is a thankless job. Trampers need to be properly equipped for all conditions. This often means setting off in shorts and t-shirt in the glorious morning sunshine with your back weighed down with warm and waterproof layers. It can seem over cautious, but many have lived to be thankful.

The Great Walks are all well marked, with wardenmanned huts and you’re rarely far from helicopter access.

But the country has many – often more dangerous – routes, some in alpine terrain and all the dangers that

THE NINE GREAT WALKS 1. Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk Where: Te Urewera National Park, North Island The details: Three to four days (46km) Tell me more: A moderate tramp, this mostly lakeside trail climbs up the Panekire Ridge before winding round parts of Lake Waikaremoana.

8. Kepler Track Where: Fiordland National Park, South Island The details: Three days (60km) Tell me more: A long ascent leads to alpine terrain then down again through ancient beach forests.

Nutty Kiwis run this trail in an annual race.

2. Tongariro Northern Circuit Where: Tongariro National Park, North Island The details: Three days (50km) Tell me more: The circuit includes the Tongariro Crossing, the country’s most popular day walk (and if you’ve only got time for one, make it this). Brightly coloured rock pools, hissing sulphur, lavic rock and smoking volcanoes.

It’s like Mars. Or Mordor (which was filmed here).

9. Rakiura Track Where: Rakiura National Park, Stewart Island The details: Three days (37km) Tell me more: Nice and remote. Definitely for those who don’t like sharing the trail with crowds of trampers.

3. Whanganui Journey Where: Whanganui National Park, North Island The details: Four to five days (145km) Tell me more: Although a river journey, the Whanganui is one of the Great Walks. Paddle the Whanganui from Taumarunui to Pipiriki and visit a remote Maori meeting house.

The Great Walks are the most popular, but there are lots more very good trails too. Just go into a DoC office and ask about the nearest national park. Better still, if you’ve really caught the bug and have the time, you could try Te Araroa, a new 3,000km trail that “links New Zealand’s most spiritual, historic and scenic locations,” say DoC, from Cape Reinga in the north to Bluff in the south.

4. Abel Tasman Coast Track Where: Abel Tasman National Park, South Island The details: Four days (54.4km) Tell me more: An easy, mostly flat tramp that features superb coastal views and lovely beaches.

5. Heaphy Track Where: Kahurangi National Park, South Island The details: Four to six days (78.4km) Tell me more: The longest of the Great Walks includes some spectacular coastline, lush forests and expansive tussock downs. One of the less crowded.

6. Routeburn Track Where: Mount Aspiring National Park/Fiordland National Park, South Island The details: Three days (32km) Tell me more: Possibly the best of the lot. To really make an epic of it, the stunning Routeburn Track can be walked in conjunction with the Greenstone and Caples tracks.

7. Milford Track Where: Fiordland National Park, South Island The details: Three days (53.5km) Tell me more: One of the world’s most famous walks is often booked up. It starts at the head of Lake Te Anau and ends at Milford Sound.

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Vanua Levu FIJI

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Isles of smiles If you’re looking for world-class diving and desert islands, then set sail to discover Fiji’s lesser-travelled northern island of Vanua Levu WORDS CAROL DRIVER

The intrusive drilling sound of our speedboat as we slice through the ocean cuts through the tranquillity as we zoom along to our secret destination. Some of Fiji’s 333 or so islands can be seen in the distance – they’re lush and green, and with the sun beaming down, it’s like a scene straight out of Lost.

Our guide Tim nods at the driver who quickly shuts off the engine – the silence is like a jolt to the senses as we quietly drift along looking for the right spot.

“Here,” Tim says authoritatively. We’re already kitted up in our diving gear, so we roll backwards and descend into the warm, crystal-clear water. The underground world comes to life before our eyes – coral of every pastel colour is highlighted by the rays of sunlight piercing the surface. It’s teeming with life as schools of vibrant fish dart about, not in the least bit inquisitive about their huge intruders.

Tim and Simon fin along in front of me as I get distracted exploring the magical wonderland. As they turn to check I’m okay, I can see their eyes bulging behind their masks. They point behind me, motioning for me to turn around. I feel my heart pounding – I’m a keen diver, but I’ve never seen anything bigger or scarier than a trigger fish before, and I’m fearing the worst. Everything seems to happen in slow motion as I turn to face a gigantic manta ray, spanning about five metres, gliding effortlessly through the water towards us. Sensing it’s got company, it veers off, moving too quickly for us to follow. .

ALL ABOARD Back onboard our home for the next three days, the Tui Tai, we boast to anyone who will listen – the crew, all Fijians wearing loud shirts and salu-salus (flower necklaces) – have probably heard a similar story a thousand times before, but they’re polite enough to act as though it’s the first.

I’d boarded the vessel at Natewa Bay on Fiji’s north island Vanua Levu. Having been reluctant to do a cruise, I was assured this is the best way to explore some of the more remote islands and it offers some of the best diving in the world, anchoring overnight in the South Pacific Ocean.

But it’s not the type of cruise where you watch the world go by. Days start at 6am with yoga on the deck as the sun comes up. After that, guests – of which there are only 22 – can then choose to paddleboard, kayak, snorkel, surf, dive or go hiking and biking on an island.

Overnight, the boat is back on the move around the archipelago, so you wake in a new destination every morning.

STUNNING TRADITIONS My group takes the bikes over to the volcanic Rabi Island. It’s inhabited by just 5,000 Micronesian people, most of whom relocated from Kiribati after World War II. Hordes of smiley children run beside us as we pedal along the small, dusty tracks, weaving in between tiny huts. Everyone on the island is friendly and before long, we are the VIP guests of the village.

Photos: Tourism Fiji

›› TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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We’re given front-row seats (after we’ve changed into respectable sulus) to a flamboyant dance as men and women don grass skirts and face paints, and the beat of the drums kicks in. It’s a stunning display of custom and expression – the attention to detail put into making the costumes reflects the level of importance in which the villagers hold the tradition.

“

The coral comes to life before our eyes – every colour highlighted by the sunlight piercing the surface

”

My group applauds, but our hosts refuse to let us leave – apparently there’s one more part of our initiation into Fijian life.

We’re told to sit cross-legged as the village chief is handed a small bowl brimming with a murky grey-brown liquid. He claps once, shouts “bula” and downs the drink in one. The bilo is

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EASY FLEXIBLE PACKAGES FIJI’S TRADITIONAL BEVERAGE Kava is Fiji’s famous drink, writes Dave Mansford.

Unlike alcohol, it tends to tranquilise you, first making your lips go numb, then your tongue, before your whole body feels like it’s been transported into a Ministry of Sound chill-out album. It looks like ditch water but has a strangely medicinal, dentist’s mouthwash taste. One guide joked that it is Fiji’s unofficial contraceptive – after a few, the guys can’t muster enough energy to act on any urges they might be feeling, and the women can slip off back to bed without being noticed. Mental note: only have one kava tonight. In one village I visit, our host allows me to mix my own kava, a process of putting the root shavings into a small sack and mashing it around a ceremonial bowl until the water turns a muddy, brown colour. As I mash away, our host explains that if he wanted to talk to another village about anything, he wouldn’t be able to phone or write – he would have to visit personally and drink kava before any business could be discussed. Despite spilling most of it over my sulu (a traditional sarong), I receive more than a few compliments on my kava-making abilities, highlighted by the fact we had to carry three highly intoxicated people back on to the bus.

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refilled and my grinning host passes it to me, gesturing for me to follow suit, which I do. There’s uproar from the crowd of Fijians, who laugh wildly and pat me on the back.

It’s not the most unpleasant taste – a slight medicinal twang with a tongue-numbing side effect. I hand back the bowl and wait for a wave of relaxation to wash over – the reason kava, which is made from the piper methstyicum plant, is so popular.

FEAST OF KINGS

EXPLORE THE SOUTH WHERE ELSE TO GO IN FIJI

Known as the Isles of Smiles, Fiji is an archipelago made up of more than 333 islands – of which 110 are permanently inhabited. Viti Levu (‘the mainland’) in the south and Vanua Levu (Big Island) in the north are the two biggest, accounting for 87 per cent of the population. Most travellers will land in Viti Levu, at Nadi Airport, which offers a good base from which to explore. Head to Robinson Crusoe Island, Nadi Rural, which is lively and filled with backpackers looking for a good time.

Beachcomber Island, in the Mamanucas, is one of the most popular – best known for its all-night parties. For somewhere cheap to stay, head to the Yasawa Islands where you can to enjoy Fiji on a tight budget.

. .N A m e TOTALLY ! !

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s ay s

Our guide has been preparing dinner on Tavewa island for hours. We make the short speedboat journey to the shore where the sand is golden and feels like cake mix between my toes.

Tavewa is popular with backpackers, it’s fairly undeveloped – and it isn’t connected to the centralised power grid, generating its own electricity through diesel generators. But we don’t need any tonight.

The food is being cooked in a lovo earth oven. Fish, meats and vegetables are placed in a pit, covered with soil and left to cook. Our guide informs us, before we start eating, that this was also how cannibalism was performed – a practice which is, thankfully, now extinct.

After a feast fit for kings, we head back to the Tui Tai where cocktails are being served. The boat is pretty empty – there’s only four of us stargazing.

One of the crew beckons for me to follow him and takes me down some steep steps where I find the rest of his shipmates sitting crosslegged in a circle.

There’s a huge bowl of murkylooking water in the middle, and a bilo being passed around. I sit down; the whole room is filled with smiles and chatter and I’m made to feel incredibly welcome.

Soon the small bowl is handed to me. It may not taste as good as the Cosmopolitans above deck, but I know where I’d rather be. Bula! ❚

it all .

!!

www .awe efiji ww www ww w.aw w. awe aw es som osom efi ef iji ji.co ..com com m

TNT TN TNTDOWNUNDER.COM N T DOW DO D OW W NUN NU N DER NU DE ER R..C .CO COM CO

39 39

NZWORK

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The whitest touch With New Zealand’s world-class slopes about to open, now is the best time for you ski fiends to secure that job on the mountains...

WORDS ALEX HARMON

Carving up the lunch break hour

Photo: Tourism New Zealand, Miles Holden

New Zealand’s ski fields are amongst the best in the world.

In fact, National Geographic recently named Lake Wanaka as being one of the top 25 ski towns on the planet. The South Island destination was the only Southern Hemisphere town to make the grade. However, as we all know, skiing is not the cheapest of hobbies. Indeed, you pretty much have to sell a kidney before you even hit the slopes. So why not kill two birds with one stone and work a snow season?

Deidra O’Shea, who recruits for Coronet Peak, Mt Hutt, The Remarkables and the Ohau ski areas, told us about the perks of getting a job during New Zealand’s ski season.

“Besides the obvious benefits of working in one of the most beautiful countries in the world with a fantastic international crew, we also offer some amazing additional staff benefits to our team members so that they can make the most of our facilities when they’re not working.”

That’s right, you’re not just working there for the scenery, they want you to get out there and experience all that clean white powder too. So what are we looking at, a free hat?

A pair of gloves? Deidra puts us straight. “Staff transport, snow sports lessons, discounts on food and retail items on our mountains and many local business discounts. Oh, and of course you get to ski and ride for free.” Not too bad, bro!

But maybe you’re not the best skier or boarder (yet) but 40

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

you still want to get amongst it. Well, you’re in luck.

There are plenty of other jobs available, everything from food and beverage attendants, guest services, lift operators and cleaners. And you’ll still receive the same perks.

For those that do want to get on the slopes but are feeling a little rusty, Deidra says you’re not to worry, “NZSki-U is our training and development programme that offers a range of free qualifications to all employees. All of the qualifications are nationally recognised by the New Zealand Qualifications Authority (NZQA) so they are also valued in other industries.”

The most important thing isn’t experience, but a good work ethic, as Deidra explains. “If you come to us with the right attitude, ready to help out wherever needed, we can train you with the skills for your job. If you’re not afraid of hard work and are handy on the end of a shovel after a big snowfall, then you are who we are looking for! Our staff love winter!”

But are there many jobs available? “We have a winter seasonal workforce of nearly 1,000 employees across three locations. Every season we invite our return staff back first and then we establish how many vacancies we have. In 2011, we had approximately 400 vacancies,” says Deidra.

Applications opened on 1 March, 2012. nzski.com/jobs

BAREESSENTIALS NORTHISLAND OZWORK

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BANKS

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HEALTH Auckland Metro Doctors Travelcare

For accident and medical care and all international travel vaccines.

Pharmacy, X-ray and laboratory.

Open six days. BNZ Tower, cnr 125 Queen & Swanson Sts, Auckland, 09 373 4621, Email: doctor@ travelcareMD.com TMVC For all your medical needs.

Christchurch, Ph: (03) 379 4000

INSURANCE Downunder Worldwide Travel Insurance 09 376 8292, dunder@internet.co.nz

Post Offices are open 9am-5pm on weekdays. Mail can be sent to ‘Poste Restante, CPO’ in the relevant city. CPO stands for Chief Post Office. Mail will be held for 30 days. Delivery time is two days between major centres, a bit longer for rural areas.

Extensions

VISA KIWIS VS KANGAROOS Eden Park, Auckland. Fri, 20 April. From $39.

It’s rugby league’s greatest rivalry: the Kiwis and the Four Nations title holders, the Aussie Kangaroos. This will be a battle of the champions.

Reimers Ave, Kingsland

PHONES Pay phones in NZ are usually of the card variety and phone cards are available in values of $5, $10, $20 and $50. The country dial code for New Zealand is 64.

ticketek.co.nz Country & area codes New Zealand 64; Auckland 09; Northland 09; Rotorua/Taupo 07; Wellington 04; South Island 03 Directory service International: 0172

Directory assistance Ph: 018

POST

Air New Zealand 0800 737 000, Soundsair Wellington 0800 505 005 03 520 3080

Changing money You can change money at any bank.

American Express, Visa, Mastercard and Thomas Cook travellers’ cheques are all widely recognised.

Banks will give cash advances on Visa and Mastercard credit cards but for American Express you must go to a designated Amex office.

Foreign exchange is available for all international flights at airports.

you must also have sufficient money (NZ$1000 for each month of your visit) to support yourself during your stay. If you wish to stay longer than three months, you should apply for a Visitor’s Visa (which will allow you to stay in NZ for up to nine months) before you arrive in New Zealand, although British passport holders on arrival in NZ may be issued a permit valid for a stay of up to six months.

Wellington

Nationwide banks like Westpac, ANZ and Bank of New Zealand (BNZ) have the most branches and, if you are planning on spending a long period of time here, issue cards for use at ATMs (cashpoints).

International operator: Ph: 0170 (reversed charges) Emergency (Fire, ambulance, police): 111 Compass communications Kia Ora cards. Prepaid calling card kiaoracard.co.nz

DOM AIRLINES Auckland Air New Zealand 0800 737 000, 09 357 3000 Great Barrier 09 275 9120

The type of visa you will need to enter NZ is determined by how long you want to stay and what you want to do while you’re there. If you are only entering New Zealand as a tourist you may need a visa depending on what country you are from. If you intend to work while you are in New Zealand you can apply for one online, once you’re here. Citizens of many countries can get a 23-month Working Holiday visa. immigration.govt.nz Visitor’s Visas Citizens of a number of countries do not require visas if they are visiting NZ for three months or less. On arrival, all visitors must be in possession of a valid ticket or enough funds to purchase a ticket out of NZ to a country they have the right of entry to, ie: you must already hold a visa for that country if one is required – you cannot expect to get the visa once you are in New Zealand. Your passport must be valid for three months beyond when you expect to leave NZ, and

If you like New Zealand and decide you’d like to stay here longer you may extend your stay to a maximum of nine months in an 18 month period. To do this you need to apply for a further visitor permit. You can apply for these permits online ( immigration.govt. nz). If you do need to apply in person, New Zealand Immigration Service offices are located in Auckland, Hamilton, Palmerston North, Wellington, Christchurch and Dunedin. The Auckland office is very busy and you may experience long delays when applying there. When applying, you need to show your outward ticket or prove your ability to purchase such a ticket; your current passport, a recent passport-sized photo and evidence that you still have sufficient funds to support yourself. If you do not have the required funds, you will need a guarantee of accommodation and maintenance from a NZ friend or relative who is willing to be your sponsor.

CHECK OUT

Photo: Tourism New Zealand, David Wall

er

TASMAN GLACIER It’s the longest glacier in New Zealand and you’ll find it on the South Island, extending towards the Mackenzie Basin from the Southern Alps. It has been melting and retreating over the years forming a lake. It changed dramatically recently – the 2011 Christchurch Earthquake was so strong it shook 30 million tonnes of ice loose from the glacier and into Mt Cook National Park.

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Atomic Shuttles South Island buses. 03 349 0697, atomictravel.co.nz

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Apex Car Rentals 0800 939 597 , apexrentals.co.nz

Bottom Bus Far south tours.

03 477 9083, bottombus.co.nz

Bargain Rental Cars 0800 001 122, bargainrentals.co.nz

Flying Kiwi Wilderness Expeditions 0800 693 296, flyingkiwi.com

Darn Cheap Rentals 0800 800 327, dcrentals.co.nz

InterCity Coachlines 09 583 5780, intercity.co.nz

Magic Travellers Network 09 358 5600, magicbus.co.nz Naked Bus 0900 62533, nakedbus.com NZ Travelpass 0800 339 966, travelpass.co.nz

Econo Campers 09 275 9919, econocampers.co.nz

LADY GAGA Auckland. Thurs, June 7. From $159.90.

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Vector Arena Auckland Stray 09 526 2140,

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ticketek.co.nz West Coast Shuttle Greymouth to Christchurch buses.

03 768 0028, westcoastshuttle.co.nz

Rent-A-Dent 0800 736 823, rentadent.co.nz Rental Car Village 09 376 9935, hire-vehicles.co.nz

Backpacker Campervan & Car Rentals 0800 422 267, backpackercampervans.com

Flexi-Pass Combines InterCity and Newmans. 0800 222 146, flexipass.co.nz

Kiwi Experience 09 336 4286 kiwiexperience.com

Ace Rental Cars 0800 502 277, acerentalcars.com.nz

Pegasus Rental Cars 0800 803 580, rentalcars.co.nz

Escape Rentals 0800 216 171, escaperentals.co.nz Explore More 1800 447 363, exploremore.co.nz

Spaceships 0800 772 237, spaceshipsrentals.co.nz Standby Cars 0800 789 059, standbycars.co.nz United Campervans 09 275 9919, unitedcampervans.co.nz Wicked Campers 0800 246 870, wickedcampers.co.nz

AIRLINES Air New Zealand 1800 737 000, airnewzealand.co.nz Jetstar 0800 800 995, jetstar.com

Jucy Rentals 0800 399 736, jucy.co.nz Nationwide Rental Cars 0800 803 003, nationwiderentalcars.co.nz

FERRIES Interislander Linking Wellington and Picton. 0800 802 802, interislander.co.nz

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In Maori language the city’s name is Tamaki Makau Rau, which translates as “the city of 100 lovers”. Auckland is admired for its cosmopolitan flavour, its sunny harbour for the fact that it makes every other city in NZ feel like a small town.

Auckland International Backpackers (BBH) 2 Churton St, Parnell. +64358 4584,

Backpackers World Travel 16-20 Fort St, 09 379 4126, backpackersworld.com

Base Auckland 229 Queen St. 0800 227 369, stayatbase.com

Base Travel Level 3, 229 Queen St, 09 358 4874, basetravel.com

NEW ZEALAND BEER FESTIVAL Queens Wharf. Sat, Mar 31. Entry from $30. Tastings from $2.50.

Here’s your chance to taste over 70 beers from 24 (predominately New Zealand) breweries. Plus gourmet food and local musicians.

i-SITE Visitor Information 287 Queen St, 09 979 2333, reservations@aucklandnz.com

Parks Information Centre Details on tramping, camping grounds, the Gulf Islands and exploring the regional parks. 21 Pitt St, open Mon-Fri, 09 366 2000

Airport Skyway Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 30 Kirkbride Road, Mangere.

09 275 4443, skywaylodge.co.nz Albert Park Backpackers (VIP) 27-31 Victoria St East.

09 309 0336, bakpak@albertpark.co.nz

i-SITE Auckland Atrium, skycity, Cnr Federal & Victoria Sts

Ferry Tickets Online (For inter-island ferry services) 39 Beach Rd, 0800 500 660, ferrytickets.co.nz

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Auckland

City buses Tickets and timetables are available from the 10 central city Star Mart stores.

09 366 6400

Georgia Parkside Backpackers 189 Park Rd, Grafton.

09 309 8999, bacpacgeorgia@xtra.co.nz Kiwi International Queen St Hotel and Hostel 411 Queen St. 0800 100 411, kiwihotel.co.nz Kiwi International Airport 150 McKenzie Road, Mangere.

0800 801 919, kiwiairport@xtra.co.nz Lantana Lodge (BBH) 60 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell.

09 373 4546, lantana@xtra.co.nz The Fat Camel (Nomads) 38 Fort St. 09 307 0181, nomadshostels.com

BK Hostel (BBH) 3 Mercury Ln, Central. 09 307 0052, helpdesk@bkhostel.co.uk

New Zealand Backpackers 8 Nixon St, Ponsonby.

09 376 3871, ajlodge@xtra.co.nz

Auckland InterCity Travel Centre Buses around Auckland and the rest of New Zealand leave from here. Located beside the casino, Hobson St, 09 623 1503

Central City Backpackers 26 Lorne St. 09 358 5685, backpacker.net.nz

Nomads Auckland 16-20 Fort St. 09 300 9999, nomadshostels.com

City Garden Lodge 25 St Georges Bay Rd, Parnell.

09 302 0880

Train Intercity trains arrive and depart from Britomart, 12 Queen St, Auckland.

09 270 5211

City Groove Backpackers (BBH) 6 Constitutional Hill, Parnell.

09 303 4768, bed@backpackersco.nz

Oaklands Lodge (BBH) 5A Oaklands Rd, Mt Eden.

09 638 6545, oaklands.co.nz

beerfestival.co.nz

Airport Transport The airport is 21km from the city and shuttle buses run every half an hour.

Airbus Airport is every 20 mins.

0800 247 287, airbus.co.nz

Bamber House (BBH) 22 View Rd, Mt Eden.

09 623 4267, hostelbackpacker.com

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Pentlands (BBH) 22 Pentland Ave, Mt Eden. +64 9638 7031

WORD FROM THE STREET

Dallal Messabhia, France HEY DALLAL. BEEN UP TO MUCH ON THE NORTH ISLAND? “Sure, I’ve been from north to south, from east to west. I have also been to Rotorua, Taupo, Waitomo, Cape Reinga and a few other places.

I have seen basically a very big part of the North Island!”

GOT A FAVOURITE PLACE? “ Rotorua because of the landscapes and the Maori people. Of course it was very smelly (like old eggs) and I had been told that I needed to walk a lot which made me a little afraid at the beginning, but actually the place was so beautiful that walking around was no big deal.”

AND A FAVOURITE NIGHT SPOT? “In Auckland, the Lounge is a very good night club because it was small and the music was very good.”

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Ponsonby Backpackers (BBH) 2 Franklin Rd, Ponsonby.

09 360 1311, info@ponsonby-backpackers.co.nz

BOOK NOW!

Beaches Auckland is surrounded by great beaches, including Judges Bay, Kohimarama, Okahu Bay, St Heliers Bay and popular Mission Bay.

Princeton Backpackers 30 Symonds St. 09 963 8300, nigel@princeton.co.uk Queen Street Backpackers (VIP) 4 Fort St. 09 373 3471, enquiries@qsb.co.nz

Aotea Square Markets Every Friday and Saturday at Aotea Square, Queen St. NZ fashion labels, retro gear, foods, Pacific-style crafts, jewellery and furniture, 09 309 2677, the-edge.co.nz

Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby.

09 378 8990 Surf ‘n’ Snow Backpackers 102 Albert St. 09 363 8889, surfandsnow.co.nz The Brown Kiwi (BBH) 7 Prosford St, Ponsonby.

09 378 0191, brownkiwi.co.nz Verandahs (BBH) 6 Hopetown St. 09 360 4180 Yaping’s House (BBH) 79 Owens Rd, Epsom.

09 623 4486, yapinghouse@hotmail.com Uenuku Lodge (BBH) 217 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby.

09 378 8990 YHA Auckland City Cnr City Rd & Liverpool St. 09 378 8990 YHA Auckland International 5 Turner St. 09 302 8200, yha.co.nz

AUCKLAND DO Explorer Bus Sightseeing around Auckland, 0800 439 756 explorerbus.co.nz On the Road Tours and Charters Sightseeing bus tours of Auckland and the north shore.

0800 486 877, ontheroad.co.nz Harbour Ferries Ferries can take you all over the harbour. Info about timetables and destinations available at the Ferry Building on Quay St. 09 424 5561 America’s Cup Sailing Experience A unique opportunity to participate as crew on an actual America’s Cup yacht. Take the helm, exert energy on the grinders or simply sit back and enjoy the action as you sail the beautiful Waitemata Harbour.

The two hour sails departs daily from the Auckland Viaduct. No experience necessary. 0800 397 567, explorenz.co.nz Auckland Museum See the world’s finest collection of Maori and Pacific Island artefacts. Explore New Zealand’s natural history, discover the largest bird that ever lived and experience a Maori cultural show. 09 306 7067, aucklandmuseum.com Auckland Zoo See kiwi birds in the nocturnal house and over 900 animals.

09 360 3800, aucklandzoo.co.nz

HIBISCUS COAST

Awesome Adventures Three-day Bay of Islands tours.

0800 658 058, awesomenz.com

WELLINGTON VS CENTRAL COAST Westpac Stadium, Wellington. Sun, March 25. From $29.

The last match of the normal A-League season could see both these high flyers vying for a place in the finals and the ultimate glory.

147 Waterloo Quay, Pipitea Coast to Coast Walkway A walk between Waitemata Harbour and Manukau Harbour.

It takes about four hours and takes in Albert Park, Auckland Uni, Auckland Domain, Mt Eden, and One Tree Hill.

Devonport A 15-minute ferry or bus ride across the harbour on the north shore, Devonport is an idyllic setting for a picnic or a stroll along the beach.

Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter & Underwater World A seawater aquarium with a moving walkway through a transparent underwater cavern.

Antarctic Encounter is a recreation of an Antarctic environment where you jump on a snow mobile and tour a penguin colony, get attacked by an orca whale. Orakei Wharf, Tamaki Drive, 09 528 0603, kellytarltons.co.nz Mt Eden The highest point in the city, 4km south of the city centre with spectacular views. Get there by bus.

NZ National Maritime Museum The museum celebrates NZ’s maritime heritage. 09 373 0800, nzmaritime.org Ponsonby West of the city, explore Victorian architecture and narrow streets with cafés, bars, clothes shops, art galleries and some lively nightlife.

Queen Street Auckland’s main boulevard with shops, cafés and restaurants.

Whale & Dolphin Safari See whales and dolphins from Auckland’s doorstep. The Hauraki Gulf is considered one of the most biologically and geographically diverse marine parks in the world. See dolphins, whales, sea birds and/or even penguins. Dolphins are viewed on over 90% and whales on 75% of trips. Departs daily from the Auckland Viaduct. Dolphin viewing guaranteed. 0800 397 567, explorenz.co.nz

footballaustralia.com.au Fullers Cruises Inner harbour cruises and longer cruises to Hauraki Gulf islands, with all-day passes and hop-on, hop-off options.

09 367 9111.

Pride of Auckland The Pride of Auckland operates an impressive fleet of large, purpose-built yachts on the sheltered waters of Auckland’s Waitemata Harbour and is world famous for its sailing and dining cruises. Join them for a coffee, lunch, dinner, Waiheke sailing experience cruise or a full-day sailing adventure and experience the “City of Sails” for what it is known for.

0800 397 567, explorenz.co.nz Auckland Bridge Climb Up and over the Auckland Harbour Bridge. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay, 0800 286 4958, ajhackett.com Auckland Harbour Bridge Jump NZ’s only ocean touch bungy, 40m high. Westhaven Reserve, Curran St, Herne Bay, 0800 286 4958, ajhackett.co.nz Canyonz Ltd Explore subtropical canyons and abseil down crashing waterfalls.

0800 422 696, canyonz.co.nz New Zealand Surf Tours 09 832 9622, newzealandsurftours.com Sky Jump Fall from the top of the 192m Sky Tower, 0800 759 586, skyjump.co.nz Sky Walk Walk around the external 1.2m wide platform, 192m up.

09 368 1835, skywalk.co.nz Fullers Bay of Islands Tours One, two and three-day tours from Auckland.

09 358 0259, boitc.co.nz

Whangaparaoa Peninsula. A popular holiday spot, the peninsula offers water sport opportunities from windsurfing to boating. Busy in summer, this whole area is popular with bushwalkers.

Hisbiscus Coast Visitor Info Hibiscus Coast Hwy, 09 426 0076.

Marco Polo Backpackers Inn (BBH) 2d Hammond Ave, Hatfields Beach, 09 426 8455, marcopolo.co.nz

PAKIRI BEACH

Victoria Park Market 3km from the CBD, an outdoor market with fruit, veggies, books, clothes and handicrafts.

Famous for its white sand and isolation, there are several coastal walks here and gorgeous views.

GREAT BARRIER

WAIPU

The island is dominated by a native forest a network of criss-crossing tracks. greatbarrier.co.nz

Come to Waiku for snorkelling, fishing and exploring the caves. The Bream Bay Coast is a magnificent expanse of white sparkling sand just 30 mins drive from the city.

Orama Resort (YHA) Karaka Bay Rd, 09 429 0063, yha.co.nz

SAIL ROCK

Stray Possum Lodge (VIP) 09 429 0109, straypossum@acb.co.nz

Hen & Chickens Island and Sail Rock These offshore areas offer great sailing and diving. Boat trips leave from the area daily.

BARRIER DO Fullers Cruises Depart from the Ferry Building.

09 367 9102

Waipu Wanderer (BBH) 25 St Marys Rd, 09 432 0532.

Great Barrier Airlines Fly out of Auckland Airport or Auckland Shore Airfield.

0800 900 600,

WHANGAREI

Fullers Great Barrier Explorers Cruise and tours, summer only (October-April).

09 367 9111

WAIHEKE ISLAND A 35-minute ferry ride from Auckland. It is popular for its long sweeping beaches and craft shops.

The waterfront has been developed in the style of the early settlers (except with cafés, restaurants and galleries) and Mount Parahaki towers 241m above the city. Stroll along enticing beaches and dive at Poor Knights Islands. one of the world’s top diving sites. Also pay a visit to petty Whangerei Falls.

Whangarei I-SITE Visitor Centre 92 Otaika Rd, 09 438 1079

Hekerua Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 11 Hekerua Rd, Oneroa, 09 372 8990, hekerualodge.co.nz

WHANGAREI STAY Bunkdown Lodge (BBH) 23 Otaika Road, 09 438 8886, bunkdownlodge.co.nz

Waiheke Island Hostel Seaview Road, Onetangi, Ph: (09) 372 8971, waihekehostel.co.nz

Coastal Cow Backpackers (BBH) 299 Molesworth Drive, Mangawhai Heads, 09 431 5444, coastalcow@xtra.co.nz

NORTHLAND

Little Earth Lodge (BBH) 85 Abbey Caves Road, 09 430 6562, littleearthlodge.co.nz

The “winterless north” is Northland’s famous tag. The subtropical climate is good all year round and the area boasts some of the best beaches in NZ. Highlights include Ninety Mile Beach, Kerikeri and the beautiful Bay of Islands.

Piano Hill Farm (BBH) Piano Hill, Kauri, 09 433 7090, thefarm.co.nz

HELENSVILLE

Whangarei Falls Backpackers (BBH) Ngunguru Road, Glenbervie, 09 437 0609, whangereifalls.co.nz

The hot springs here have indoor and outdoor thermal pools and waterslides.

Malolo House (BBH) 110 Commercial Rd, 09 420 7262, helensville.co.nz/malolo.htm

YHA Whangarei, Manaakitanga 52 Punga Grove Ave, 09 438 8954, yha.co.nz

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NORTHISLAND WHANGAREI DO Dive! Tutukaka Poor Knights Islands dives, plus tours with kayaking, cave explorations, snorkelling, swimming, sea mammal-spotting.

PAIHIA Paihia is one of the most beautiful towns on the North Island with equal parts love for adventure, nature and a raucous nightlife.

AwesomeNZ Tours include Maori mythology, dolphin swimming and fast boats. Maritime Building, on the waterfront, 0800 653 339, awesomenz.com Bay of Islands i-Site The Wharf, Marsden Rd, Freephone: 09 402 7345 Base Travel 18 Kings Rd, 09 402 7111, basetravel.com

PAIHIA STAY Base Pipi Patch 18 Kings Rd 09 402 7111, stayatbase.com Captain Bob’s Beachhouse (BBH) 44 Davis Cres, 09 402 8668, capnbobs@xtra.co.nz

Centabay Lodge (BBH) 27 Selwyn Rd, 09 402 7466, centaby@xtra.co.nz Mayfair Lodge (BBH) 7 Puketona Rd, 09 402 7471, bay-of-islands.co.nz/accomm/ mayfair.html Mousetrap (BBH) 11 Kings Rd, 09 402 8182, info@mousetrap.co.nz Peppertree Lodge (BBH) 15 Kings Rd, 09 402 6122, peppertree.co.nz

BOOK NOW! Opua Forest The DOC provides a leaflet of forest walks, which features a small stand of Kauri trees. Drive into the forest via Oromahoe Rd or walk from School Rd. Te Rawhiti Cape Brett Walkway Guided tours include experienced local Maori guides, all meals, hut accommodation, transport by boat to hut taking in the famous Hole in the Rock, Maori culture, myths and legends and hangi, 09 403 7248

Saltwater Lodge (BBH) 14 Kings Rd, 0800 002 266, saltwaterlodge.co.nz

Waitangi Treaty Grounds The site where the historic Treaty of Waitangi was signed.

Also see carvings that represent all Maori tribes in NZ and one of the largest ceremonial waka (canoe) in the world, launched every Waitangi Day (Feb 6). \ 09 402 7437, waitangi.net.nz

YHA Paihia Cnr Kings and MacMurray Rds, Paihia, 09 402 7487, yha.co.nz

Boat cruises & dolphin watching Cape Brett “Hole in the Rock” Cruise Four-hour cruises, 09 402 7421

Pickled Parrot Backpackers (BBH) Grey’s Lane, 09 402 6222, theparrot@paradise.net.nz

PAIHIA DO Haruru Falls Picturesque falls offering swimming, camping and kayaking opportunities – and a pub!

Dolphin Discoveries With the warmest water and friendliest dolphins (bottlenoses), this is a great place for swimming with the dolphins (conditions permitting). The high-speed luxury catamaran offers easy

follow us on access to the water and hot showers. Or do a “Hole in the Rock and Dolphin Viewing Experience” and see dolphins, whales, birds and other wildlife.

Visit Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island during your island stop and explore this amazing place. 0800 365 744, explorenz.co.nz Dune Rider Unique Adventure Tour Make your way up to Cape Reinga while traveling to the Gumdiggers Park and drive along the famous Ninety Mile Beach. Climb huge sand dunes and boogie board back down on the way and stop at the world famous Mangonui Fish Shop for fish and chips. Departing daily from Paihia. 0800 365 744, explorenz.co.nz Excitor “Hole in the Rock” Adventure One-and-a-half hours, 0800 653 339, excitor.co.nz Lion New Zealand – “The Ultimate Day Sail in the Bay” Join Lion New Zealand, NZ’s most famous maxi yacht. Enjoy a fresh BBQ lunch and activities such as kayaking, snorkelling, natural walks at Otehei Bay or simply kick back and enjoy the island atmosphere.

0800 365 744, bayofislands@explorenz.co.nz

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Overnight Cruises The Rock 24-hour cruise featuring kayaking, snorkelling with stingrays, fishing for your dinner, dolphin spotting.

0800 762 527, rocktheboat.co.nz Awesome Cape Reinga Via Ninety Mile Beach – learn Maori myths and legends, navigate the quicksand stream, ride the dunes, visit a thousand year old forest. 0800 653 339, awesomenz.com

RUSSELL Catch a ferry to Russell, originally a sprawling fortified Maori settlement.

Information Centre End of the Pier, 09 403 8020

RUSSELL STAY The Coast Road Farm (BBH) Coast Rd, Whangaruru, 09 433 6894, thefarm.co.nz Ferry Landing (BBH) 395A Aucks Rd, Okiato Point, 09 403 7985, ferrylanding@clear.net.nz Wainui (BBH) 92D Te Wahapu Rd, 09 403 8278, stocked@xtra.co.nz

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

AUCKLAND ZOO Just west of downtown Auckland. Adult tickets are $22.

Boasting New Zealand’s largest collection of animals, this zoo has also been called one of the most progressive in the world. It is home to 138 different species and over 860 animals, including its own native New Zealand section with unique, regional plants and animals. The rainforest section is very popular as you can get up close and personal with the primates. aucklandzoo.co.nz

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NORTHISLAND KERIKERI A highlight of the sparsely populated town is the wonderful Maori village. There is also an historic Maori pa (fortress) and the Kerikeri Mission Station.

DOUBTLESS BAY Less touristy than the Bay of Islands, the area around Doubtless is made up of tiny bays and coves, beach resorts and historical villages.

Dept of Conservation Office 09 407 8474

KERIKERI STAY Kerikeri Top 10 Holiday Park & Aranga Backpackers Aranga Drive off Kerikeri Rd, 09 407 9326, kerikeritop10.co.nz Hideaway Lodge Wiroa Rd, 0800 562 746 Hone Heke Lodge (BBH) 65 Hone Heke Rd, 09 407 8170, kerikeri.net/honeheke Kerikeri Farm Hostel (BBH) Ph: (09) 407 6989, kkfarmhostel@xtra.co.nz

NRTH BAY OF ISL i-Site Far North South Rd in Jaycee Park.

09 408 0879, kaitaiainfo@xtra.co.nz Farm Backpackers (BBH) End of Lamb Rd, Pukenui, 09 409 7863, farmbackpackers@xtra.co.nz North Wind Lodge Backpackers (BBH) Otaipango Rd, Henderson Bay, 09 409 8515, northwindlodge@xtra.co.nz Pukenui Lodge Hostel (BBH) Cnr SH1 & Wharf Rd, Pukenui, 09 4098837, stay@pukenuilodge.co.nz

MATAURI BAY A very well-kept tourist secret, Matauri Bay is Maori land, home to the Ngati Kura people, and has beautiful, quiet beaches.

TAIPA A tiny village with a boat-dotted harbour. You can swim with dolphins, hire boats or kayaks, and swim at the beautiful Coopers Beach. Taipa is worth visiting for its pretty beach.

KAITAIA The ideal starting point for Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach.

Backpackers Heaven (VIP) Wagener Holiday Park, Houhora Heads, 09 409 8564, wagenerpark@xtra.co.nz Main Street Lodge (BBH) 235 Commerce St, 09 408 1275, mainstreet@xtra.co.nz Pukenui Lodge (YHA) Corner Wharf Rd & State Hwy 1, Houhora, 09 409 8837, yha.co.nz Waitiki Landing Far North Rd, 09 409 7508

KAITAIA DO Ancient Kauri Kingdom Giant kauri tree stumps are fashioned into furniture and other trinkets.

Far North Regional Museum Featuring all kinds of goodies, like the skeleton of a giant moa bird and salvages from local shipwrecks.

The Welcome Swallow Backpackers Off Matauri Bay Road, 09 4051 019, welcomeswallow.com

Pack or Paddle Thoms Landing, 09 4098 445, packorpaddle@hotmail.com

The Rainbow Warrior A monument to the noble but doomed Greenpeace ship, Rainbow Warrior, sits on the site of a Maori pa on the headland at Matauri Bay. Travellers come here to dive the ship’s wreck.

The west coast of the Far North Peninsula is Ninety Mile Beach,a beautiful strip of coastline that takes you way up to Cape Reinga.

WHANGAROA This area was once well known for its Kauri forests, but these days it’s more about game fishing. The scenery is ruggedly spectacular and sailing cruises are popular.

Tourist info centre Boyd Gallery, 09 405 0230.

Sunseeker Lodge (BBH) Old Hospital Rd, 09 405 0496, sunseekerlodge.co.nz

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KARIKARI PENIN The Rusty Anchor (BBH) 1 Tokerau Beach Rd, 09 406 7141, info@rustyanchor.co.nz

90 MILE BEACH

AHIPARA This is the best spot for sandtobogganing, located at the south end of Ninety Mile Beach.

YHA Ahipara Backpackers & Motor Camp 168-170 Takehe St, 09 409 4864, yha.co.nz Farm Backpackers (BBH) End of Lamb Rd, Pukenui, 09 409 7863 farmbackpackers@xtra.co.nz Endless Summer Lodge (BBH) 245 Foreshore Rd, 09 409 4181, endlesssummer.co.nz

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BOOK NOW! AHIPARA DO Tuatua Tours Guided quad tours of Ninety Mile Beach sand dunes. 3 Main Road, 0800 494 288, tuatuatours.co.nz

HOKIANGA Heading south, you’ll hit Hokianga Harbour and the quiet twin towns of Omapere and Opononi. The Koutu Boulders are well worth a look.

Hokianga Information 09 405 8869, hokiangainfo@xtra.co.nz

HOKIANGA STAY

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HAMILTON Hamilton is NZ’s largest inland city and is known for its parks and gardens.

Hamilton Visitor Centre 5 Garden Place, Hamilton 07 958 5960 visithamilton.co.nz DOC Office Level 5, Rostrevor St.

HAMILTON STAY Colts n Fillies (BBH) 37 Smith Rd, Karamu, 07 825 9809, ktt.co.nz Eagles Nest (BBH) 937 Victoria St, 07 838 2704, a.morris@xtra.co.nz

Okopako Lodge (BBH) 140 Mountain Rd, South Hokianga, 09 405 8815,

Forty Winks (BBH) 267 River Rd, Claudelands, 07 855 2033, forty_winks@ihug.co.nz

Globe Trekkers Lodge (BBH) SH12, Omapere, 09 405 8183.

J’s Backpackers (BBH) 8 Grey Street, 07 856 8934, jsbackpackers.co.nz

Waitawa Farm Hostel (BBH) 164 Pukemiro Rd, 09 409 5809, valleyfarm@xtra.co.nz

DARGAVILLE On the road from Hokianga, the famous “Big Trees”, the native kauri trees of Waipoua Kauri Forest. Once in Dargaville, attractions include the masts from the ill-fated Rainbow Warrior and the fascinating bird sanctuary nearby.

Dargaville Info Centre 61 Normanby St, 09 439 8360.

DARGAVILLE STAY Dargaville Holiday Park (VIP) 10 Onslow St, 09 439 8296, dargavilleholidaypark@xtra.co.nz Kaihu Farm (BBH) RD6, Kaihu, 09 439 4004, kaihufarm@clear.net.nz The Greenhouse Hostel (BBH) 13 Portland St, 09 439 6342, m.stevens@clear.net.nz

MATAKOHE Travellers Lodge (BBH) 64 Jellicoe Rd, Ruawai, 09 439 2283 Kauri Country Northland 3hr 4WD eco-adventures, including free ticket to Kauri Museum. Devon Grove, Matakohe, 09 431 6007

WAIKATO Waikato District Info Centre 160 Great South Rd, Huntly, 07 828 6406 Shekinah (BBH) 122 Pungapunga Rd, Pukekawa, 09 233 4464, shekinah@ps.gen.nz

HAMILTON DO Waikato Museum of Art & History Cnr Victoria and Grantham Sts. More than 3,000 items, with a permanent Maori War canoe.

Gold coin donations welcomed.

River Cruises The Waikato River is a vast expanse of water best seen by boat.

MATAMATA Rural town famous for being turned into Hobbiton in those films – some of the set still stands.

Hobbiton Backpackers 81 Arawa St, 07 888 9972, steve@hobbitonbackpackers.co.nz

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Karioi Backpacker Lodge (VIP, BBH) & Raglan Surfing School 5 Whaanga Rd, Whale Bay, 07 825 7873, karioilodge.co.nz Solcape Accommodation Centre (BBH) 611 Wainui Rd, 07 825 8268 Waikatoa Beach Lodge (BBH) 8 Centreway Rd, Sunset Beach, Port Waikato, 09 232 9961, sunsetbeach.co.nz

TE AWAMUTU Given that it calls itself the “Rose Town of New Zealand”, it’s not surprising the 2,000-strong Rose Garden is the town’s major attraction.

Te Awamutu Info Centre 1 Gorst Ave, Ph: (07) 871 3259.

Te Awamutu District Museum 135 Roche St. Ph: (07) 872 0085

KAWHIA The main attraction of this peaceful port town, 55km south of Raglan, is the Maketu Marae where you can experience the rich cultural tapestry of NZ’s indigenous history.

OTOROHANGA Just 59km south of Hamilton, many travellers use this small farming community as a base for visiting the Waitomo Caves.

Otorohanga Visitor Info Centre 26 Maniapoto St, otorohanga.co.nz

WAITOMO

Definitely one of the best adventure spots in New Zealand. There are a range of caving adventures, from glowworm ogling, to long dramatic CAMBRIDGE abseils deep towards the centre of This very Olde English town with its the earth and excellent blackwater rafting (jump in an inner tube and town square and abundance of trees is in the heart of Waikato. The let the underwater current carry region is famous for its horses and you). jetboating.

Waitomo Caves Discovery Centre 21 Waitomo Caves Rd, Cambridge Tourist Info Centre 0800 474 839.

Cnr Queen and Victoria Sts, waitomodiscovery.org 07 823 3456

RAGLAN One of New Zealand’s best-known surfing beaches, Raglan is situated 48km west of Hamilton.

Raglan Information Centre 2 Wainui Rd, 07 825 0556

RAGLAN STAY Ewe Dream’Inn (BBH) 2458 State Highway 22, Glen Murray, 09 233 3144, glenmurray.net Raglan Backpackers & Waterfront Lodge (BBH) 6 Wi Neera St, 07 825 0515, raglanbackpackers.co.nz

WAITOMO STAY Juno Hall (BBH) 07 878 7649 Kiwipaka School Rd, 07 878 3395, Rap Raft & Rock Backpackers (BBH) 95 Waitomo Caves Rd, 07 873 9149, rapraftnrock@xtra.co.nz

WAITOMO DO Dundle Hill Walk A two-day walk through native bush; limestone outcrops includes overnight with spectacular views at Kays Cabin.

0800 924 866

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Marakopa Falls, Managapohue Natural Bridge and Piri Piri Cave, 30 minutes drive from Waitomo.

the opportunity to experience Maoritanga (the Maori way of doing things).

BOOK NOW!

Rap Raft ‘n’ Rock Blackwater adventures combining abseiling, rafting, glowworms, caving and rockclimbing all in one five-hour adventure. 0800 228 372, caveraft.com

COROMANDEL PEN A series of towns loop around the peninsula, broken by rolling green hills. Highlights include Hot Water Beach, Cathedral Cove and the cosy little Coromandel township.

The Legendary Black Water Rafting Co Cave tubing in the blackness of the Ruakuri Cave river. 585 Waitomo Caves Rd, 0800 228 464, blackwaterrafting.co.nz Waitomo Adventures Five adventure options include abseiling and/or blackwater rafting. 0800 924 866, waitomo.co.nz Waitomo Glow Worm Caves 07 878 8227, caveinfo@waitomo.co.nz Woodlyn Park Pioneer Show, caving adventure, and quirky accommodation in a 1950s train carriage. Waitomo Valley Road, 07 878 6666.

TE KUITI Located 19km south of Otorohanga, Te Kuiti is known as “The Shearing Capital of the World”. There’s also a magnificent Maori marae (meeting house) here.

Te Aroha YHA Hostel Miro Street, Te Aroha (south of Thames), 07 884 8739, yha.co.nz

THAMES A great canyoning spot, with loads of natural pools and waterslides.

Information Thames 206 Poland St, 07 868 7284

FIRST AID KIT

DOC Office 07 868 6381

TelstraClear Festival Club. Thurs, March 8. $48.

Catch the folk-singing sisters, Klara and Johanna Söderberg from Sweden, as part of the New Zealand International Arts Festival.

Odlin’s Plaza, Wellington Te Kuiti Information Centre Rora St, 07 878 8077.

Dept of Conservation 78 Taupiri Street, 07 878 1080.

Tiffany’s Tearooms, Rora St, 07 878 7640

Canyonz Ltd 0800 422 696, canyonz.co.nz

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THAMES STAY

TE KUITI STAY Casara Mesa Backpackers (BBH) Mangarino Rd, 07 878 6697, casara@xtra.co.nz

KING COUNTRY The King Country is the region south of the Waikato and the Maori influence has remained strong with

Dickson Holiday Park Victoria St, Ph: (07) 868 7308, Gateway Backpackers (BBH) 209 Mackay St, 07 868 6339, gatewayb@wave.co.nz The Sunkist International Backpackers (BBH, VIP, YHA) 506 Brown St, 07 868 8808, sunkist@xtra.co.nz

FOREST PARK There are heaps of walks to choose from. The Colville Range is the most popular but the Department of Conservation in the Kauaeranga Valley is the place to begin.

COROMANDEL Some 55km north of Thames is the town of Coromandel, home to the popular Driving Creek Railway.

Coromandel Information Centre Kapanga Rd, 07 866 8598.

CORO STAY Anchor Lodge Backpackers (BBH) 448 Wharf Rd, 07 866 7992, anchorlodgecoromandel.co.nz Black Jack Backpackers (BBH) Kuaotunu, 07 866 2988, black-jack.co.nz Colville Farm (BBH) 2140 Colville Road, Colville, 07 866 6820 Coromandel Town Backpackers (BBH) 732 Rings Road, 07 866 8830

BOOK NOW Become part of the legend with New Zealand’s first Black Water Rafting company. An exhilarating world of ancient caves, rivers, waterfalls and breathtaking glowworms.

Climb, leap and float with the Black Labyrinth or descend into the black, bottomless depths with the ultimate caving tour, the Black Abyss.

www.waitomo.com TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

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NORTHISLAND WHITIANGA

WHITIANGA DO

Whitianga, perched on pretty Mercury Bay, is the most popular stop-off point for travellers on the Coromandel. You can learn to make your very own bone carving, dive and surf to your heart’s content.

Hot Water Beach & Cathedral Cove Rated as one of the world’s 10 best beaches, Hot Water Beach is an unusual phenomenon. For two hours either side of low tide you can dig a hole in the sand and sit in your very own thermal spa pool.

Lions Den (BBH) 126 Te Tiki St, 07 866 8157 Tidewater Tourist Park (YHA) 270 Tiki Rd, 07 866 8888, yha.co.nz Tui Lodge (BBH) 60 Whangapoua Rd, 07 866 8237, tuilodge@paradise.net.nz

OPOUTERE This is a good place to go to just chill out. The beach here is glorious and generally empty. Skinny dip anyone?

YHA Opoutere 389 Opoutere Rd, 07 865 9072, yha.co.nz

WHANGAMATA

Whitianga Information Centre 66 Albert St, 07 866 5555 Baywatch Backpackers (VIP) 22 The Esplanade, 07 866 5481, anchorage@ihug.co.nz Cathedral Cove Lodge Villas (VIP) 41 Harsant Ave, Hahei Beach, 07 866 3889.

Cat’s Pyjamas Backpackers (BBH) 12 Albert St, 07 866 4663.

A real surfie town, Whangamata has one of the best surf beaches in New Zealand and a laidback atmosphere to match.

Fernbird (BBH) 24 Harsant Ave, Hahei, 07 866 3080, fernbird@xtra.co.nz

Whangamata Info Centre 616 Port Rd, 07 865 8340

On the Beach Backpackers Lodge (BBH, YHA) 46 Buffalo Beach Rd, 07 866 5380, yha.co.nz

Southpacific Accommodation (BBH) Cnr Port Rd and Mayfair Avenue, 07 865 9580, thesouthpacific.co.nz Whangamata Backpackers Hostel (BBH) 227 Beverley Tce, 07 865 8323

BOOK NOW!

Seabreeze Tourist Park (BBH) 1043 SH25 Tairua-Whitianga Rd, 07 866 3050 Tatahi Lodge (BBH) Grange Rd, Hahei, 07 866 3992, dreamland.co.nz/tatahilodge

BAY OF PLENTY The Bay of Plenty, extending from the Coromandel Peninsula to the East Cape, was named by Captain Cook in honour of both the fertile nature of the region and the friendly local Maoris he encountered.

Activities include paragliding, sky diving, white water rafting, 4WD safaris, gliding, jet boating and swimming with dolphins.

TAURANGA One of the fastest growing places in NZ, Tauranga combines a young population with a harbourside atmosphere. Enjoy diving, sailing, fishing and surfing.

Tauranga i-site 95 Willow St, 07 578 8103 Department of Conservation 253 Chadwick Rd West, 07 578 7677

TAURANGA STAY Appletree Cottage 47 Maxwell Rd, Ph: (07) 5767404, appletree backpackers@hotmail.com

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Bell Lodge (BBH) 39 Bell St, 07 578 6344, bell-lodge.co.nz

Mt Maunganui Visitor Centre Salisbury Ave, 07 575 5099

Harbourside City Backpackers (BBH) 105 The Strand, 07 579 4066, backpacktauranga.co.nz

Te Puke Information Centre 130 Jellicoe St, 07 573 9172

Just The Ducks Nuts Backpackers (BBH) 6 Vale St, 07 576 1366, justtheducksnuts.co.nz Loft 109 (BBH) 8/109 Devonport Rd, 07 579 5638, loft109.co.nz Tuaranga Central Backpackers 64 Willow St, 07 571 6222, tgabackpack.co.nz YHA Tauranga 171 Elizabeth St, 07 578 5064, yha.co.nz

TAURANGA DO Butlers Swim With Dolphins 0508 288 537 Waimarino Adventure Park 07 576 4233 Coyote Bar and Restaurant 107 The Strand, 07 578 8968, coyotes.com

MT MAUNGANUI Home to Ocean Beach which, at 15km long, is considered by locals to be among the finest surfing in the country. The town stands at the foot of Mt Maunganui, a slab of rock 232m high, around which you can appreciate stunning views.

MAUNGA STAY Hairy Berry Backpackers (BBH) 2 No One Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 8015, work@hairyberrynz.com Mount Backpackers (BBH) 87 Maunganui Rd, 07 575 0860, mountbackpackers.co.nz Pacific Coast Backpackers (BBH) 432 Maunganui Rd, 0800 666 622, pacificcoastlodge.co.nz

MAUNGA DO Kiwifruit Country Young Rd, Te Puke, 07 573 6340, kiwifruitcountry.co.nz Te Puke Vintage Auto Barn, 26 Young Rd, 07 573 6547

WHAKATANE For a very different adventure, visit White Island, an active volcano where sulphur-lipped fumeroles and roaring steam vents create a stark wonderland.

Karibu Backpackers (BBH) 13 Landing Rd, 07 307 8276

MUST-VISIT

This central North Island town is famous for its geothermal activity and hot spring mud pools, thanks to a number of regularly spouting geysers. It is nature at its most exciting, but also most pungent, with all the volcanic goings on being to blame for the town’s infamous sulphur scent. The most renowned geyser in the region, the Pohutu Geyser, which means ‘big splash or explosion’, usually erupts up to 30 metres high every hour. Just over a third of Rotorua’s population is Maori and the locals take full advantage of all the geothermal activity for their cooking and heating. It is also a great place to indulge in a spa treatment or two, with the bubbling mud pools being full of natural ingredients that are wonderful for the skin. No trip to Rotorua is complete without visiting the living thermal village, Whakarewarewa, to experience real Maori culture. The people of this village will welcome visitors and demonstrate how they utilise the geothermal activity for everyday living, as well as cooking a Hangi – which is the traditional method of using heated stones to cook food in a pit oven covered by earth. You can enjoy cultural performances and guided tours of the area and learn all there is to know about the shifting tectonic plates that New Zealand straddles at the earth and science facility.

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Photo: Tourism New Zealand, Chris McLennan

ROTORUA

JETBOAT - SLEDGE - KARTING - ZORB - MONSTER TRUCK - SWOOP - LUGE

Set amidst a geothermal landscape is The Living Thermal Village of Te Whakarewarewa.

Join a guided tour and discover how our people have learnt to live in harmony with Mother Earth.

Sit back and relax at our Maori Cultural Performances.

Indulge in the unique geothermal cuisine that can only be found at Whakarewarewa.

www.whakarewarewa.com Phone +64 7 349 3463

Email: info@whakarewarewa.com

10% OFF General Admission Present advert in store for discount. Excludes Family Pass and Combos.

COMBINE ROTORUA’S LEADING ADVENTURE ACTIVITIES!

RAFT - SKYDIVE - MUD POOL - HANGI - HELI/RAFT - MOUNTAINBIKING & MORE

www.rotoruacombos.com FREEPHONE 0800 338 786

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NORTHISLAND Lloyds Lodge (BBH) 10 Domain Rd, 07 307 8005 The Windsor (BBH) 10 Merritt St, Whakatane, 07 308 8040, whaka_bpack@xtra.co.nz

WHAKATANE DO Dive White 168 The Strand, 0800 348 394, divewhite.co.nz White Island Tours Departs Whakatane daily.

0800 733 529

ROTORUA Rotorua is a must for three reasons: the abundance of accessible Maori culture, the steaming volcanic scenery and adrenalin thrills. Visit the bubbling mud at Whaka, take a dip in a thermal bath and pig out on a hangi at a Maori concert. Even the air here is special – it’s heavy with sulphur. You’ll smell it the moment you arrive.

Tourism Rotorua & Visitor Info Centre 1167 Fenton St, 07 348 5179

ROTORUA STAY Base Rotorua 1286 Arawa St, 0800 227 369, stayatbase.com Cactus Jack Backpackers (BBH) 1210 Haupapa St, 07 348 3121, cactusjackbp@xtra.co.nz Crank Backpackers 1140 Hinemoa St, 07 348 0852, crankbackpackers.co.nz Crash Palace Backpackers (BBH, VIP) 1271 Hinemaru St, 07 348 8842, info@crashpalace.co.nz Planet Nomad Backpackers (VIP) 1193 Fenton St, 07 346 2831, downtown-rotorua@xtra.co.nz Rotorua Central Backpackers (BBH) 1076 Pukuatua St, 07 349 3285, rcbenquiry@slingshot.co.nz Spa Lodge (BBH) 1221 Amohau St, 07 348 3486, spalodge@wave.co.nz

ROTORUA DO Agroventures Five adrenalin activities in one adventure park, including bungy jumping, sprint boats and a wind tunnel. 1335 Paradise Valley Rd. 07 357 4747, agroventures.co.nz Hell’s Gate Mud baths to heal and stimulate your body 07 345 3151 Kaitiaki Adventures Extreme whitewater activities.

Sledging and rafting trips on the Kaituna and Rangitaiki Rivers, 0800 338 736, kaitiaki.co.nz

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NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft over Rotorua, Ph: (07) 345 7250, nzone.biz Off Road NZ Sprint car racing, Monster 4X4, 4WD Bush Safari and more.

07 332 5748, offroadnz.co.nz Polynesian Spa Historical hot mineral water bathing spa on the edge of Lake Rotorua. 07 348 1328, info@polynesianspa.co.nz Raftabout Whitewater rafting and sledging. 0800 723 822, raftabout.co.nz Skyline Skyrides Spectacular Get the best views and luge down 5km of tracks, or take the 150ft skyswing. 07 347 0027, skylineskyrides.co.nz Waikite Hot Pools Natural hot spring water bathing. Provides private spas, BBQ area and campground facilities, 20 minutes south of Rotorua.

07 333 1861 Waimangu Volcanic Valley The location of the Pink and White Terraces which were destroyed in the 1886 volcanic eruption.

Wet ‘n’ Wild Rafting Guided rafting options on five different rivers – the Wairoa, Rangitaiki, Kaituna, Motu and Mohaka. 0800 462 7238, wetnwildrafting.co.nz Zorbing Get harnessed inside the perspex Zorb before rolling head-over-heels downhill.

07 357 5100, zorb.com

MAORI CULTURE While you’re here, take the opportunity to see how the Maori lived before European settlment.

The Maori Arts and Crafts Institute in Whakarewarewa is a good place to begin. nzmaori.co.nz.

NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute 07 348 9047 The Realm of Tane A blend of guided tour, character theatre and story telling within a series of magical sets. 1220 Hinemaru St, 07 349 2999, maoriculture.co.nz Rotoiti Tours 0800 476 864 Tamaki Maori Village Tours, hangi and concert.

Hinemaru St, 07 349 2999, maoriculture.co.nz Whakarewarewa Thermal Village Maori village set amidst a landscape of geothermal wonders. Take a guided tour, see a cultural performance, check out Maori art.

07 349 3463, whakarewarewa.com

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BOOK NOW! LAKE TAUPO Lake Taupo used to be a hidden gem, but nowadays it’s the place to visit in the North Island, thanks to its wicked mix of adrenalin adventures, sedate lake life and after-dark partying.

Taupo Visitor Centre 30 Tongariro St, 07 376 0027 laketauponz.com

TAUPO STAY Berkenhoff Lodge (BBH) 75 Scannell St, 07 378 4909, bhoff@reap.org.nz Blackcurrant Backpackers (BBH) 20 Taniwha St, Ph: (07) 378 9292, blackcurrantbackpackers@xtra. co.nz Rainbow Lodge (BBH) 133 Summers St, Ph: (08) 9227-1818, rainbowlodge@clear.net.nz Finns Global Backpackers (VIP) Cnr Tongariro & Tuwharetoa Sts, 07 377 0044, go-global.co.nz Silver Fern Lodge Flash-Packers (VIP) Cnr Tamamutu & Kaimanawa Sts, 07 377 4929, silverfernlodges.co.nz Sunset Lodge (BBH) 27 Tremain Ave, 07 378 5962, info@sunsetlodgetaupo.co.nz Base Taupo 7 Tuwharetoa St, 07 377 4464, stayatbase.com Taupo Urban Retreat 65 Heu Heu St, 0800 872 261, taupourbanretreat.co.nz Tiki Lodge 104 Tuwharetoa St, 0800 845 456, tikilodge.co.nz YHA Taupo 56 Kaimanawa St, 07 378 3311, yha.co.nz

TAUPO DO Craters of the Moon One of the most geothermally active areas in the region, full of boiling mud and steaming craters. Wairakei Park.

Huka Falls Take a relaxing walk up to Huka Falls where the water pours over the 35ft drop at up to 62,000 gallons per second. The more energetic will enjoy the trek up Mt Tauhara where you will be rewarded with sweeping views.

follow us on Tongariro Crossing Transport and National Park Links From Taupo and Turangi during summer months (NovMay). 07 377 0435, thetongarirocrossing.co.nz Taupo Tandem Skydiving Skydive from up to 15,000 feet (over one minute freefall). Free shuttle, DVD and digital photos.

Yellow Hangar, Taupo Airport.

0800 275 934, taupotandemskydiving.com

TURANGI On the southern shores of Lake Taupo, Turangi is known as the trout fishing capital of the world. It offers heaps of outdoor adventure activities and is a good base for venturing into the Tongariro National Park.

Turangi Visitor Centre Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8999

TURANGI STAY A Plus Backpackers (BBH) 41 Iwiheke Pl, Turangi, 07 386 89 79, makoto0305@xtra.co.nz Club Habitat Backpackers Assoc YHA 25 Ohuanga Rd, 07 386 7492, yha.co.nz Extreme Backpackers (BBH) 26 Ngawaka Place, 07 386 8949, extremebackpackers.co.nz Riverstone Backpackers (BBH) 222 Tautahanga Rd, 07 386 7004, riverstonebackpackers.com

TONGARIRO The World Heritage-listed Tongariro National Park, an extraordinary volcanic landscape which became Mordor in those films. Pop into the national park headquarters in Whakapapa.

Adventure Lodge & Motel (VIP) Carroll Street, National Park, 07 892 2991, adventurenationalpark.co.nz Forest Lodge (BBH) Cnr Omaki and Ohorere Rds, Owhango, 07 895 4773, forest.lodge@xtra.co.nz Howards Lodge (BBH) Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2827, howardslodge.co.nz

Hukafalls Jet Jetboating by the falls.

0800 485 2538, hukafallsjet.com

YHA Matai Lodge (BBH) 1 Rata St, Ohakune, 06 385 9169, matai.lodge@xtra.co.nz

Rock ‘n’ Ropes Ropes Courses including the trapeze and Giant Swing. At Crazy Catz on Highway 5. 0800 244 508, rocknropes.co.nz

National Park Backpackers YHA (BBH) Finlay St. The hostel runs transport to the Tongariro Crossing, 07 892 2870, npbp.co.nz

Taupo Bungy Bungy from a platform 47m above the Waikato River. 202 Spa Rd. 0800 888 408, taupobungy.com

Plateau Lodge & Motel (BBH) Carroll St, National Park, 07 892 2993, plateaulodge@xtra.co.nz

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Ski Haus (BBH) Carroll St, McKenzie St, 07 892 2854, skihaus.co.nz

MT RUAPEHU The park’s showcase is Mt Ruapehu, an active volcano towering at 2,796m.

Ruapehu Visitors’ Centre 54 Clyde St, 06 385 8427 Whakapapa Visitor Centre SH 48, Whakapapa Village, 07 892 3729

RANGITIKEI The Rangitikei District is a top destination for adventure sports.

Amongst stunning scenery, you can navigate grade five whitewater and take the leap of elasticated faith from an 80m bungy.

The Stockmans Lodge (BBH) 9 Dixon Way, 06 388 1584, stockmanslodge@xtra.co.nz River Valley Dorms 06 388 1444, thelodge@rivervalley.co.nz

RANGITIKEI DO Mokai Gravity Canyon Extreme flying fox, bridge swing and bungy jump.

0800 802 864 River Valley Rafting and horse trekking. 06 388 1444, thelodge@rivervalley.co.nz

EAST COAST The East Coast is among the first places in the world to see the sun rise each morning. This is a relatively tourist-free area of New Zealand that has so much to offer that it can only be a matter of time before visitors begin to flock here.

OPOTIKI A summer holiday town which was once a large Maori settlement and the indigenous people maintain a strong presence here.

Opotiki Information Centre Cnr St John and Elliot Sts, 07 315 3031 Central Oasis Backpackers (BBH) 30 King St, 07 315 5165, centraloasis@hotmail.com Opotiki Backpackers Beach House (BBH) 7 Appleton Rd, Waiotahi Beach, 07 315 5117, hangout@paradise.net.nz

EAST CAPE As you head around the Cape the towns get tinier and the scenery more dramatic. At Te Araroa, you can thead around to the East Cape Lighthouse.

Brians Place (BBH) Potae St, Tokomaru Bay, 06 864 5870, briansplace1@hotmail.com

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Eastender Backpacker & Horse Treks (BBH) 836 Rangitukia Rd, Tikitiki, 06 864 3820, horsetreks@xnet.co.nz Maraehako Bay Retreat (BBH) SH35, Whanarua Bay, 07 325 2648.

Mel’s Place (BBH) Onepoto Beach Rd, Hicks Bay, 06 864 4694, eastcapefishing@xtra.co.nz

GISBORNE Gisborne is a peaceful surfie town that boasts diving, windsurfing, kayaking and whitewater rafting; try Wainui, Midway and Makarori beaches. You can also soak up the Maori heritage at one of the largest carved maraes in NZ. Flying Nun Backpackers (BBH) 147 Roebuck Rd, 06 868 0461, yager@xtra.co.nz YHA Gisborne 32 Harris St, 06 867 3269, yha.co.nz

WAIROA Wairoa is a large town, great as a stop-over before heading into the area’s main attraction: the gorgeous Te Urewera National Park.

Wairoa Visitor Information Centre Queen St, 06 838 7440 Haere Mai Cottage (BBH) 49 Mitchell Rd, 06 838 6817 DOC office for hut bookings Lake Waikaremoana, 06 837 3900

NAPIER Napier is a beautiful, surprising city.

Its “pleasing to the eye” status is actually the result of an enormous earthquake which meant the entire town had to be rebuilt.

Visitor Info Centre 100 Marine Parade, 06 834 1911 Depart of Conservation Office Marine Parade, 06 834 3111

NAPIER STAY Aqua Lodge (BBH) 53 Nelson Cres, 06 835 4523, aquaback@inhb.co.nz Criterion Art Deco Backpackers (VIP, Roamfree) 48 Emerson St, 06 835 2059, criterionartdeco.co.nz Napier Prison Backpackers (BBH) 55 Coote Rd, 06 835 9933, getnicked@napierprison.com

Waterfront Lodge & Backpackers (BBH) 217 Marine Pd, 06 835 3429, napierwaterfront.co.nz YHA Napier 277 Marine Parade, 06 835 7039, yha.co.nz

HASTINGS Hastings is 20km south of Napier and most notable for its fertile plains, which have given birth to a multitude of beautiful parks, gardens and farms.

A1 Backpackers (BBH) 122 Stortford St, 06 873 4285, a1backpackers@xtra.co.nz Glenross Lodge (BBH) Route 52, Rakaunui, 06 376 7288, glenross@xtra.co.nz Lochlea Farmstay (BBH) 344 Lake Rd, Wanstead, 06 8554 816 info@lochleafarm.co.nz The Rotten Apple Backpackers (BBH) 114 Heretaunga St, 06 878 4363, rottenapple.co.nz Travellers Lodge Hastings (BBH) 608 St Aubyn St, West Hastings, 06 878 7108, tlodge.co.nz

WAIRARAPA The Wairarapa is a green, tree-lined region north-east of Wellington, famous for its wine and its many sheep – quintessential NZ.

MASTERTON Home to the impressive Queen Elizabeth Park, the Wairarapa Arts Centre, and the best-tasting icecream in New Zealand.

Chanel Backpackers 14-18 Herbert St, 06 378 2877

TARANAKI Best known for its snow-capped mountain, Mt Taranaki. Peaceful and impressive, Taranaki has skifields, excellent surf beaches, great walking and climbing.

MOKAU Palm House Backpackers (BBH) 06 278 6523, taranaki-bakpak.co.nz

NEW PLYMOUTH Taranaki’s major town is New Plymouth. One of NZ’s finest art galleries is here (the GovettBrewster Art Gallery). It hosts a great café.

Department of Conservation 220 Devon St West, 06 758 0433

PLYMOUTH STAY Eco Inn (BBH) 671 Kent Rd, between Egmont Village and New Plymouth on SH3.

06 752 2765 Egmont Lodge (BBH, YHA) 12 Clawton St, 06 753 5720, yha.co.nz Seaspray House (BBH) 13 Weymouth St, 06 759 8934, seaspray@maxnet.co.nz Shoestring Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lemon St, 06 758 0404 Sunflower Lodge (BBH) 33 Timandra St, 06 758, 2842 The Missing Leg (BBH) 1082 Junction Rd, Egmont Village, 06 752 2570, jo.thompson@xtra.co.nz

PLYMOUTH DO Taranaki Surf Charters 20 Beach Road, 025 592 306, taracoastal@hotmail.com

WORD FROM THE STREET

Valerius Liang, Indonesia HEY VALERIUS. BEEN UP TO MUCH ON THE NORTH ISLAND? “I spent most of my time in Auckland City learning English at Auckland EF International Language School and doing an Internship Programme at a photo studio. At the weekends, I usually go on vacation outside Auckland, to places like Rotorua, the Waitomo Caves, Ahipara, Wellington and many more.”

GOT A FAVOURITE PLACE? “Mission Bay. It’s not only near where I live, but also it’s one of the most famous beaches in Auckland.”

AND A NIGHT SPOT? “I like to go out to the city (in Auckland).

Sometimes to sing karaoke or to have a drink or two.”

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NORTHISLAND MT TARANAKI The Camphouse (BBH) 6 Egmont Rd, 02 74 538 975, camphouse@taranaki-bakpak.co.nz Taranaki Accommodation Lodge (BBH) 7 Romeo St, Stratford, 06 765 5444, mttaranakilodge@hotmail.com

TARANAKI DO Climbing Mount Taranaki It is possible to climb it and return to civilisation in one day, however the weather is notoriously volatile and you must always notify the DOC. North Egmont Visitors Centre, 06 758 3222.

STRATFORD Stratford Information Centre Broadway Stratford (State Hwy 3), 06 765 6708, stratford@info.stratford.govt.nz New Plymouth Info Centre Puke Ariki Complex, St Aubyn Street, 06 759 6080, info@newplymouth.govt.nz Department of Conservation Pembroke Rd, 06 765 5144

SOUTH TARANAKI Information South Taranaki 55 High St, Hawera, 0800 111 323, visitorinfo@stdc.govt.nz Wheatly Downs Farmstay Backpackers (BBH) 484 Ararata Rd, Hawera, 06 278 6523, wheatlydowns@taranakibakpak.co.nz

WHANGANUI Braemar House (YHA) 2 Plymouth St, 06 348 2301, yha.co.nz

BOOK NOW! Department of Conservation Office Cnr Ingestre and St Hill Sts, 06 345 2402

Wellington Visitor Info Centre Corner of Victoria & Wakefield Sts, 04 802 4860, wellingtonnz.com

PALMERSTON NTH

DOC Information Centre Lambton Quay, 04 472 7356

Manawatu Visitor Centre 101 Guyton St, 06 490-508, manawatu.visitor-info@xtra.co.nz Department of Conservation Office 717 Tremaine Ave, 06 358 9004 Grandma’s Place (BBH) 146 Grey St, 06 358 6928, ak1@clear.net.nz

Tamara Backpackers Lodge (BBH) 24 Somme Pde, 06 347 6300, tamaralodge.com

Peppertree Hostel (BBH) 121 Grey St, 06 355 4054.

Whanganui National Park The major attraction is the Whanganui River, snaking through picturesque scenery.

Explore with a kayak or riverboat tour.

The nation’s capital is to many people, New Zealand’s most interesting city. Te Papa, the multimillion dollar museum, has sealed its position as cultural capital too.

Wellington has a small centre, is easily navigated on foot and as any Wellingtonian will tell you, it has more cafés per head than New York.

The nightlife in “Welly” is pretty special too.

Wanganui Information Centre 101 Guyton St, 06 349 0508, info@wanganui.govt.nz

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WELLINGTON

Ferry to the South Island Boats to Picton on the South Island. Ferries can be booked up well in advance in holiday periods. 0800 802 802, interislandline.co.nz Ferry Tickets Online 186 Victoria St, 0800 500 660, errytickets.co.nz

WELLY STAY Base Wellington 21-23 Cambridge Tce. 04 801 5666 stayatbase.com Cambridge Hotel (BBH) 28 Cambridge Tce. 04 385 8829 cambridgehotel.co.nz Downtown Wellington Backpackers (BBH) 1 Bunny St. 04 473 8482 db@downtownbackpackers.co.nz Lodge in the City (VIP) 152 Taranaki St. 04 385 8560 lodgeinthecity.co.nz

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Maple Lodge (BBH) 52 Ellice St. 04 385 3771 Nomads Capital 118 Wakefield St. 0508 666 237, nomadscapital.com Rosemere Backpackers (BBH) 6 McDonald Cres.

04 384 3041, backpackerswellington.co.nz Rowena’s Backpackers (VIP) 115 Brougham St. 0800 80 1414 Wellywood Backpackers 58 Tory St. 0508 00 58 58 Worldwide Backpackers (BBH) 291 The Terrace. 04 802 5590, worldwidenz.co.nz YHA Wellington City 292 Wakefield St. 04 801 7280 yha.co.nz

WELLY DO Cable car Walk down Lambton Quay and you will see a sign for the cable car which departs every 10 minutes past Kelburn Park to the Botanic Gardens, 04 472 2199

ON LOCATION

MATAMATA This rural town, two hours south of Auckland, got an injection of tourism after those three little Lord of the Rings films were made. Matamata suddenly became ‘Hobbiton’, and Peter Jackson was kind enough to leave most of the set for people to explore. A tour of the location will let you visit some of the leftover hobbit holes which were fully recreated for The Hobbit film instalments last year. The set is on a private farm, which also offers sheep shearing demonstrations and scenic views of the picturesque Kaimai ranges. The town of Matamata itself is famous for local dairy farming, skydiving over the ranges and the Firth Tower, which was constructed in the 1880s to provide a lookout over the beautiful countryside.

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Cosmic Corner Funk Store The funkiest store in the universe. Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff, who will happily point you in the right direction for parties, events and scenic spots. 215 Cuba St, 04 801 6970, funk@cosmiccorner.co.nz Karori Wildlife Sanctuary Many of New Zealand’s rarest birds, reptiles and insects are living freely in this awardwinning conservation safe haven. Look for kiwis on a guided tour by torchlight. Times vary and bookings are essential.

Waiapu Rd, Karori.

04 920 9213, sanctuary.org.nz Mount Victoria The views are breathtaking. It’s damn windy so make sure you’re wearing heavy shoes. Walk, drive or bus it.

Museum of Wellington City & Sea Queens Wharf, 04 472 8904 Parliament House Free tours. Visit the Beehive, a uniquely designed centre of government with a distinct style of architecture, 04 471 9503

Wellington Rover Tours Small group day tours exploring Wellington, its stunning rugged coastline and the Lord of the Rings locations.

0800 426 211, wellingtonrover.co.nz

DON’T MISS!

Beaches Wellington’s waterfront has cafés, restaurants and parks.

Oriental Bay is good for a dip, but the water is cold and not always clean. It’s also good for a walk along the foreshore. If you are desperate for a swim, Scorching Bay is good or head up the coast towards Otaki where the best beaches in the region are found.

HURRICANES VS CHEETAHS Westpac Stadium, Wellington. Sat, March 31. $TBC The Wellington Hurricanes take on South Africa’s Central Cheetahs in the stadium the Kiwis affectionately call the “cake tin”.

147 Waterloo Quay, Pipitea Te Papa – The National Museum Experience the earthquake simulation room, find out what the early settlers went through and visit Te Marae, Te Papa’s living modern marae. Free entry, Cable St, 04 381 7000, tepapa.govt.nz

ticketek.co.nz Wellington Zoo Located in Newtown and home to a wide variety of weird and wonderful animal and bird life, 04 381 6750 Harbour cruises The harbour is a handsome thing and the best way to fully appreciate its beauty is by boat.

Tranz Rail The best way to explore the Kapiti Coast is by train and most places along the way can be reached within an hour or so, 04 498 3000 Stillwater Lodge (BBH) 34 Mana Esplanade, Mana, 04 233 6628

PAEKAKARIKI Paekakariki Backpackers (BBH) 11 Wellington Rd, 04 902 5967, wellingtonbeachbackpackers.co.nz

PARAPARAUMU The beach here is glorious and the scene of most of the action in town.

PLIMMERTON Moana Lodge (BBH) 49 Moana Rd, 04 233 2010, moanalodge.co.nz

Barnacles Seaside Inn (BBH, YHA) 3 Marine Parade, Paraparaumu, 0800 555 856, yha.co.nz

KAPITI COAST

KAPITI IS

Some 45km north-east of Wellington and famous for its long stretches of sandy white beaches is the area known as the Kapiti Coast.

It’s a popular holiday spot for Wellingtonians who flock here during summer.

A sanctuary for rare native birds.

There’s a good chance of seeing elusive kiwis and blue penguins.

Kapiti Island Nature Tours Tours and accommodation, 06 362 6606, kapitiislandnaturetours.co.nz

WORD FROM THE STREET

Natasha Hoeberigs, The Netherlands HEY NATASHA. GOT A FAVOURITE NORTH ISLAND PLACE? “Mimiwhangata, a beautiful spot north of Whangarei, where I enjoy camping, bush walking, swimming, surfing, kayaking etc. It’s about four-and-a-half hours’ drive from Auckland.”

AND A FAVOURITE NIGHT SPOT? “I’d have to say staying at the Grande Chateau, in Tongariro, next to one of New Zealand’s biggest mountains – Mount Ruapehu. It’s about two-and-a-half hours’ drive from Rotorua.”

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ABEL TASMAN

Vineyard Tourist Units & Cabins 328 High St. 03 528 8550

The Abel Tasman National Park has great tramping with 56,000 acres to explore. The Coastal Track is one of the most popular walks in New Zealand, especially in summer when you can cool down at the stunning beaches. Nelson, Motueka and Marahau are all good bases for visiting the park. Sea kayaking is excellent here too.

MOTUEKA DO Wilsons Abel Tasman 265 High St, 0800 223 582, abeltasman.co.nz Southern Exposure Abel Tasman Sea Kayaking & Water Taxis 0800 695 292, southern-exposure.co.nz

ABEL DO Wilsons Abel Tasman Sea kayaking, water taxis and lodge accommodation.

0800 223 582, abeltasman.co.nz

DON’T MISS!

The Trafalgar Centre. Sun, March 10. From $79.90.

The cowboy, the Indian, the cop, the construction worker, the soldier and the biker are back together performing all their cheesy hits.

NELSON

Nelson Visitor Centre Cnr Trafalgar & Halifax St, 03 548 2304, nelsonnz.com Airport Shuttle 03 547 5782 Nelson City Taxis 03 548 8225

NELSON STAY Abode of the Buddha 181 Nile St East. 03 546 6890, cynthia@abodefthebuddha.co.nz Accents on the Park (BBH/VIP) 335 Trafalgar Square.

03 548 4335, accentsonthepark.com Almond House (BBH) 63 Grove St. 03 545 6455, almondbackpackers.co.nz Alpine Lodge St Arnaud.

03 521 1869, alpinelodge.co.nz Beach Hostel (BBH) 25 Muritai St. 03 548 6817, nelsonbeachhostel.co.nz The Bug (BBH) 226 Vanguard St. 03 539 4227, thebug.co.nz The Customhouse (BBH) 252 Haven Rd. 03 545 8365, customhousenelson.co.nz Footprints by the Sea (BBH) 31 Beach Rd, Tahuna Beach.

03 546 5441, info@footprints.co.nz The Green Monkey (BBH) 129 Milton St. 03 545 7421, thegreenmonkey.co.nz Honey Suckle House (BBH) 125 Tasman St. 03 548 7576

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TAKAKA

THE VILLAGE PEOPLE

Abel Tasman Kayaks Ltd 0800 732 529 abeltasmankayaks.co.nz

Nelson is seen as the “sunshine capital” of NZ. Home to a string of attractive beaches, Nelson is only a short drive away from the famous Abel Tasman National Park. The town boasts great cafés and a strong artistic subculture. Nelson’s great climate is conducive to fruit growing and travellers can find plenty of work in the area.

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Hu Ha Bikerpackers (BBH) State Highway 6, Glenhope.

03 548 2707, smidgley@ihug.co.nz The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 4691, thepalace.co.nz Paradiso (BBH) 42 Weka St. 0800 269 667, backpackernelson.co.nz Rylands’ Retreat 163 Trafalgar St. 03 548 4691, thepalace.co.nz The Palace Backpackers (BBH) 114 Rutherford St. 03 548 9001, rylands@kol.co.nz Shortbread Cottage (BBH) 33 Trafalgar St. 03 546 6681 Tasman Bay Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 10 Weka St. 03 548 7950, tasmanbaybackpackers.co.nz Trampers Rest (BBH) 31 Alton St. 03 545 7477 Welcome House (BBH) 108 Parkers Road, Tahunahui.

03 548 5462 YHA Nelson Central 59 Rutherford St. 03 545 9988, yha.co.nz

NELSON DO Abel Tasman Kayaks 0800 527 8022, kayaktours.co.nz Happy Valley 4x4 Motorbike Adventures Tours around spectacular private farm on chunky fourwheel motorbikes.

03 545 0304, happyvalleyadventures.co.nz Kaiteriteri kayaks Free transport from Nelson.

03 527 8383, seakayak.co.nz Skydive Abel Tasman Tandem jumps from 13,000ft over Abel Tasman.

0800 422 899, skydive.co.nz

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NELSON LAKES Located 118km south-west of Nelson, the park comprises Lake Rotoroa and Lake Rotoiti, and is surrounded by forests and mountains. Apart from tramping and skiing at Rainbow Valley and Mt Robert in winter, the lakes offer fishing and other water activities.

MOTUEKA This is an alternative hang-out for creative types and those seeking to veer off life’s fast lane. Most people use Motueka as a base to launch an assault on Abel Tasman National Park, but if you take the time to look around your efforts will be well rewarded. Try Marahau Beach and Cobb Valley.

Motueka i-SITE Visitors Centre 20 Wallace St, 03 528 6543, motuekaisite.co.nz

MOTUEKA STAY Bakers Lodge (YHA) 4 Poole St. 03 528 0102, yha.co.nz The Barn (BBH) Harvey Road, Marahau.

03 527 8043 Eden’s Edge Backpackers (BBH) 137 Lodder Lane, Riwaka.

03 528 4242, edens.edge@xtra.co.nz Lagoon Lodge (BBH) 500 High St. 03 528 8652, happyapplebackpackers.co.nz Hat Trick Lodge (BBH) 25 Wallace St. 03 528 5353, hattricklodge.co.nz The Laughing Kiwi (BBH) 310 High St. 03 528 9229, laughingkiwi.co.nz Old Macdonald’s Farm Holiday Park 03 527 8288, oldmacs@xtra.co.nz The White Elephant (BBH) 55 Whakarewa St. 03 528 6208, whiteelephant.co.nz

Known as the “Heart of the Parks”, the much underrated Golden Bay region is a place of considerable natural beauty. If you venture slightly out of Takaka you will see the Te Waikoropupu (Pupu Springs), one of the largest freshwater springs in the world.

Information Centre Willow St, 03 525 9136 Dept of Conservation Office 62 Commercial St, 03 525 8026

TAKAKA STAY Annie’s Nirvana Lodge (BBH, YHA) 25 Motupipi St. 03 525 8766, nirvanalodge@paradise.net.nz Aquapackers (BBH) Anchorage Bay, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 0800 430 744, aquapackers.co.nz Golden Bay Barefoot Backpackers (BBH) 114 Commercial St. 03 525 7005, bare-foot.co.nz Kiwiana (BBH) 73 Motuipipi St. 03 525 7676 Kanuka Ridge (BBH) 21 Moss Rd, Marahau, Abel Tasman National Park. 03 527 8435, abeltasmanbackpackers.co.nz The Nook (BBH) Abel Tasman Dr. 03 525 8501, thenook@paradise.net.nz

@tnt_downunder Somerset House (BBH) Gibbs Rd. 03 524 8624, backpackerscollingwood.co.nz

FAREWELL SPIT Arching east from the top of Golden Bay, this is a sand bar of epic proportions, home to some of the largest sanddunes in the world and some amazing birdlife.

Golden Bay Visitor Centre 03 525 9136

MARLBOROUGH The Marlborough Sounds are a beautiful labyrinth of islands and bays, serving as an impressive gateway to the South Island. Hire a kayak to paddle the coves in style, or go swimming with the dolphins.

Anakiwa Backpackers (BBH) 410 Anakiwa Rd. 03 574 1388, anakiwabackpackers.co.nz Hopewell (BBH) Kenepuru Rd. 03 573 4341, hopewell.co.nz The Partage Resort Hotel Kenepuru Sound. 03 573 4309, portage.co.nz

PICTON This pretty town is the opening to the South Island, where the North Island ferry comes in, a centre for the many activities in Queen Charlotte Sound.

Airport shuttle bus 03 573 7125

PICTON STAY Atlantis Backpackers (BBH) London Quay.

03 573 7390, atlantishostel.co.nz Bayview Backpackers (BBH) 318 Waikawa Rd. 03 573 7668, truenz.co.nz/bayviewbackpackers The Jugglers Rest (BBH) 8 Canterbury St. 03 573 5570, info@jugglersrest.com

River Inn (BBH) Golden Bay. 03 525 9425

Picton Lodge (VIP) 9 Auckland St. 03 573 7788, pictonlodge.co.nz

Shambhala (BBH) Hwy 60, Onekaka. 03 525 8463, shambhala.co.nz

Sequoia Lodge (BBH, VIP) 3 Nelson Sq. 03 573 8399, sequoialodge.co.nz

KAHURANGI NP The second-largest national park in NZ, Kahurangi includes the Heaphy Track. There are more than 100 bird species and an impressive cave system to be seen here. For info see the Nelson DOC office.

COLLINGWOOD North-west of Takaka is the tiny community of Collingwood (the people aren’t particularly small, their numbers are), a good base for expeditions to Farewell Spit.

The Innlet (BBH) Main Rd, Pakawau.

03 524 8040, goldenbayindex.co.nz/theinnlet

Picton Lodge (VIP) 9 Auckland St. 03 573 7788, pictonlodge.co.nz The Villa (BBH) 34 Auckland St. 03 573 6598, thevilla.co.nz Tombstone Backpackers (BBH) 16 Gravesend Place. 03 573 7116, rest@tombstonebp.co.nz Wedgwood House (YHA) 10 Dublin St. 03 573 7797, yha.co.nz

PICTON DO Dolphin Watch Encounters Picton Foreshore, 03 573 8040, naturetours.co.nz

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Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company 03 573 6078

Department of Conservation 133 Victoria St, 03 379 9758

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Southern Wilderness NZ Guided walk, wine trek and sea kayaking specialists.

0800 666 044, southernwilderness.com

Around the World Backpackers 314 Barbadoes Street.

03 365 4363 aroundtheworld.co.nz

HAVELOCK Nestled at the head of Pelorus Sound, Havelock is the best place from which to explore the Marlborough Sounds. For trampers and mountain bikers there’s the beautiful Nydia Track.

DOC Office Mahakipawa Rd, 03 574 2019 Explore Pelorus Sea Kayaks 03 576 5251

HAVELOCK STAY Bluemoon Lodge (BBH) 48 Main Rd. 03 574 2212, bluemoonhavelock.co.nz Nikau Cottages 48 Main Rd. 03 443 9010 Rutherford YHA Hostel 46 Main Road. 03 574 2104, yha.co.nz

PELORUS SOUND The largest waterway within the Marlborough Sounds, it can be accessed from Havelock, Linkwater or Rai Valley.

BLENHEIM The largest town in Marlborough, and considered (ahem, also) the“sunshine capital of New Zealand”. Whitewater rafting on the Buller and Gowan Rivers is great fun.

Vagabond Backpackers (BBH) 232 Worcester St. 03 379 9677 vagabondbackpackers @hotmail.com

At The Right Place 85 Bealey Street. 03 366 1633 atrp.co.nz

C’CHURCH DO

Avon City Backpackers Worcester Street. 03 389 6876, avoncitybackpackers.com

QUEEN CHARLOTTE

Endeavour Express Water Taxi Day-trips, round-trips and luggage transfers.

03 573 5456

Rucksacker Backpacker Hostel (BBH) 70 Bealey Ave. 03 377 7931 rucksacker.com

C’CHURCH STAY

Waka Whenua Tours Wine tours. Sightseeing/ historical/ cultural tours also available.

03 573 7877

On the road-free outer Queen Charlotte Sound, everyone and everything travels by boat. The Queen Charlotte Track covers 71km and passes through magnificent forest, at times allowing spectacular views over the Marlborough Sounds. The whole track can be walked in four days, though you can also ride it by mountain bike.

Tranquil Lodge (BBH) 440 Manchester St. 03 366 6500 tranquil-lodge.co.nz

Canterbury House (BBH) 257 Bealey Ave. 03 377 8108, canterburyeh257@hotmail.com

REAL ESTATE University of Otago. Sat, March 17. $89.

The guys from New Jersey are playing three shows in New Zealand.

Score yourself a piece of property when they perform in Dunedin.

Cumberland St, Dunedin Leeways Backpackers (BBH) 33 Lansdowne St. 03 579 2213, leewaysbackpackers.co.nr Peacehaven Backpackers (BBH) 29 Budge St. 03 577 9750, hrnz@naver.com Stoney Acre 9 Marldene Avenue, Seddon. 03 578 6303, enquiries@stoneyacre.co.nz

KAIKOURA Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain range. You can also snorkel with dolphins or swim with the inquisitive NZ fur seals (Sept-May).

Kaikoura Visitor Info Centre, West End, 03 319 5641

KAIKOURA STAY Adelphi Lodge (BBH, VIP) 26 West End. 0800 423 574, adelphilodge.co.nz Albatross Backpacker Inn (BBH) 1 Torquay St. 03 319 6090, albatross-kaikoura.co.nz Bad Jelly Backpackers (BBH) 11 Churchill St. 03 319 5538, duskyjack@hotmail.com Dolphin Lodge (BBH) 15 Deal St. 03 319 5842, dolphinlodge@xtra.co.nz Dusky Lodge (BBH) 67 Beach Rd. 03 319 5959 The Lazy Shag (BBH) 37 Beach St. 03 319 6662 Lyell Creek Lodge (BBH) 193 Beach Rd. 03 319 6277, jedwards120@hotmail.com

Blenheim Information Centre The Forum Building, Queen St, 03 578 9904

Sunrise Lodge (BBH) 74 Beach Rd. 03 319 7444

Honi-B-Backpackers (BBH) 18 Parker St. 03 577 8441, honi-b.com

Top Spot Backpackers (BBH) 22 Deal St. 03 319 5540

Koanui Backpackers (BBH) 33 Main St. 03 578 7487, koanui.co.nz

YHA Kaikoura, Maui 270 Esplanade. 03 319 5931, yha.co.nz

Black Cat Cruises Wildlife Cruises on Lyttelton Harbour. Free shuttle bus from Christchurch, 03 328 9078. blackcat.co.nz

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KAIKOURA DO

Chester Street Backpackers (BBH) 148 Chester St East.

03 377 1897, chesterst.co.nz

Skydivingnz.com Skydiving and training courses, 0800 697 593 skydivingnz.com

Foley Towers (BBH) 208 Kilmore St. 03 366 9720, backpack.co.nz/foley

Kaikoura is famous for its large sperm whale population and picturesque mountain r

Jailhouse Accommodation (BBH) 338 Lincoln Rd. 0800 524 546 jail.co.nz

Albatross Encounter Enjoy the sight of the magnificent albatross so close to the boat you can almost touch them. 96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365 albatrossencounter.co.nz

Kiwi Basecamp (BBH) 69 Bealey Ave. 03 366 6770 stay@kiwibasecamp.com

Dolphin Encounter Swim with the acrobatic dusky dolphins or if you prefer, join the tour to view them from the boat.

96 Esplanade, 0800 733 365, dolphin.co.nz

Marine Backpackers 26 Nayland St. 03 326 6609 themarine.co.nz

Fyffe House 62 Avoca St, Kaikoura’s oldest building, 03 319 5835.

Kaikoura Kayaks Paddle with the playful fur seals, dusky dolphins and marine life of Kaikoura. Seal kayaking, kayak school, hire, retail and kayak fishing.

19 Killarney St, 0800 452 456, kaikourakayaks.co.nz

The Old Countryhouse (BBH) 437 Gloucester St. 03 381 5504 oldcountryhousenz.com

SUMNER This surf beach is also a great place to chill for a while. If you’re feeling adventurous, mountain biking, paragliding and surfing are just some of the activities you can try.

Kiwi House 373 Gloucester St. 03 381 6645 kiwihouse.co.nz

Point Break Backpackers (BBH) 99 Seaview Road. 03 388 2050 pointbreakbackpackers.co.nz

Up Up and Away Hot air ballooning, 03 381 4600, ballooning.co.nz

The Marine Backpackers (BBH) 26 Nayland St. 03 326 6609, themarine.co.nz

BANKS PENINSULA Banks Peninsula is a beautiful region with a stunning coastline chock full of mountains and wildlife.

The two harbours of Akaroa and Lyttelton are craters of a once majestic volcano.

WORD FROM THE STREET

Seal Swim Kaikoura Swim with wild NZ Fur Seals. 58 West End, 0800 732 579, sealswimkaikoura.co.nz

CHRISTCHURCH Christchurch is the South Island’s major city and a lively, pretty base with a distinctly English feel to it.

Much of the centre is still strictly off-limits, due to earthquake damage, however, there is still plenty going on in the suburbs.

Throw in Mount Cook and Mount Hutt with their skifields (early June to late October) and the Canterbury area is well worth spending some time discovering.

Christchurch & Canterbury i-Site Visitor Centre Cnr Deans Av & Kilmarnock St 0800 423 783 christchurchnz.com

Pieter Maes, Belguim HEY PIETER. BEEN UP TO MUCH? “I’ve basically done a loop around the South Island.”

GOT A FAVOURITE DAY SPOT? “Climbing Franz Josef Glacier was an amazing, physical, challenging experience; the landscape definitely made the effort worthwhile.”

AND A NIGHT SPOT? “Drinking some beers with my mates and a perfect view of Queenstown.”

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SOUTHISLAND LYTTELTON Lyttelton is a quaint township with a beautiful scenic harbour and historic buildings. The harbour is a great place for boating, while the surrounding hills are good for mountain biking and walking.

Lyttelton Information Centre 20 Oxford St, 03 328 9093

AKAROA Swim with dolphins, horse-ride and paraglide. If your tastes are a little more sedate, the foreshore is lined with cafes, galleries and boutiques.

Akaroa Information Centre 80 Rue Lavaud, 03 304 8600 Akaroa Shuttle Christchurch to Akaroa buses.

0800 500 929 Akaroa French Connection Tours and shuttle bus, 0800 800 575

Chez La Mer (BBH) 50 Rue Lavaud. 03 304 7024, chezlamer.co.nz Double Dutch (BBH) 32 Chorlton Road, Okains Bay. 03 304 7229, doubledutch.co.nz Halfmoon Cottage (BBH) SH25 Barrys Bay. 03 304 5050, halfmoon.co.nz Onuku Farm Hostel (BBH) 03 304 7066, onukufarm.com

AKAROA DO Akaroa Museum 71 Rue Lavard, 03 304 1013 Black Cat Cruises Offer a number of cruises in Akaroa. See Akaroa Harbour or swim with dolphins.

03 328 9078.

Dolphin Experience Swim with dolphins in Akaroa Harbour. 61 Beach Rd, 0508 365 744, dolphinsakaroa.co.nz

AKAROA STAY Bon Accord Backpackers (BBH) 57 Rue Lavaud.

03 304 7782, bon-accord.co.nz

LEWIS PASS About 200km north of Christchurch, the Lewis Pass connects the west and east coasts on the SH7, with stunning surrounding scenery.

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CASTLE HILL

Hanmer Springs boasts the Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve, where the water can reach 40°C (03 315 7511, hotfun.co.nz). Mt Lyford offers good winter skiing and is a cheaper option to the South Island resorts.

Gateway to the Craigieburn Range.

Department of Conservation Cnr Amuri Rd & Jacks Pass Rd, 03 315 7128 The Hanmer Connection Christchurch to Hanmer Springs buses.

0800 242 663

HANMER STAY Hanmer Backpackers (BBH) 41 Conical Hill Rd. 03 315 7196, info@hanmerbackpackers.co.nz Kakapo Lodge (YHA) 14 Amuri Avenue. 03 315 7472, yha.co.nz Le Gite Backpackers (BBH) 3 Devon St. 03 315 5111, legite.co.nz Waipara Sleepers (BBH) 12 Glenmark Dr, Waipara.

03 314 6003, lewaiparasleepers.co.nz

Chill Adventures Multi-mountain snow passes. chillout.co.nz Springfield Hotel State Highway 73, Springfield. 03 318 4812, springfieldhotel.co.nz

ARTHUR’S PASS This township is the HQ for the magnificent national park which offers tramping expeditions to skiing.

National Park Visitor Centre 03 318 9211 Rata Lodge Backpackers (BBH) State Highway 73, Otira Arthur’s Pass National Park.

03 738 2822 Smylies Accommodation (YHA) 03 318 9258, yha.co.nz

METHVEN Methven is a small, friendly town popular with fishermen, hunters and backpackers. The area provides a variety of adrenalin thrills, including hot air ballooning, bungy jumping and skydiving. Mt Hutt also has the longest ski run in Australasia.

@tnt_downunder Methven i-SITE Visitor Centre 121 Main St, Methven, 03 302 8955, NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt. nzski.com

METHVEN STAY Big Tree Lodge (BBH) 25 South Belt. 03 302 9575, bigtree@xtra.co.nz Backpacker Heaven (YHA) Cnr Bank & McMillan Sts. 03 302 8999, yha.co.nz Kowhai House (BBH) 17 McMillan St. 03 302 8887, kowhaihouse.co.nz Mt Hutt Bunkhouse (BBH) 8 Lampard St. 03 302 8894, mthuttbunks.co.nz Pinedale Backpacker Lodge (BBH) 11 Alford St. 0800 638 483, pinedalelodge.co.nz Redwood Lodge (BBH) 3 Wayne Place. 03 302 8964, skired@xtra.co.nz Skiwi House (BBH) 30 Chapman St. 03 302 8772, skiwihouse.com

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

DUNEDIN New Zealand’s oldest city Dunedin, located in the South Island’s south-east, has strong connections to Scotland, thanks to early settlers turning up in the area after finding the Australian climate too humid for their liking. The cooler coastal weather reminded them of home and even today this town is full of shops and reminders of the Scots culture. Even the name ‘Dunedin’ comes from the Gaelic word for Edinburgh. A gold rush in the 1850s provided a jump in population and Dunedin has been thriving ever since. These days the city is a big student town and has an abundance of fresh seafood and local wildlife, with sea lions, fur seals and penguins all being easily spotted along the Otago coastline. It is also home to one of New Zealand’s most famous beers – Speights, which is an icon of the South Island. Visitors can tour the brewery – which is still standing on the original 1876 site – and enjoy one (or many) of the award-winning varieties of beers being produced. Record fans might want to head to Baldwin Street in the suburbs, which is widely considered the steepest road in the world.

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Snow Denn Lodge (YHA, VIP) Cnr Bank & McMillan Sts. 03 302 8999, yha.co.nz

TIMARU Despite being industrial, it’s picturesque with views of the Southern Alps, plains and sea.

Rangitata Rafts Peel Forest, 0800 251 251 Rawhiti Backpackers (BBH) 27 Hewlings St. 03 693 8252 rawhitibackpackers.co.nz/

FAIRLIE

1873 Wanderer Backpackers (BBH) 24 Evans St. 03 688 8795

Mt Dobson Ski Area, 03 685 8039, dobson.co.nz

Old Bank Backpackers 232 Stafford St. 03 684 4392

Tallyho Lodge & Backpackers 7 School Rd. 03 685 8723

Timaru Backpackers 44 Evans St. 03 684 5067 Toru Toru Wha Backpackers 334 Stafford St. 03 684 4729

GERALDINE As well as a wonderful old movie theatre and whitewater rafting on the Rangitata River, visiting the mighty Emily Falls is recommended.

Geraldine Information Centre Talbot Street, 03 693 1006 4x4 New Zealand Wilderness adventures and The Lord of the Rings tours, 03 693 7254, 4x4newzealand.co.nz

LAKE TEKAPO

MT COOK

WEST COAST

Mount Cook National Park is part of a World Heritage area that forms one of the most amazing sights anywhere in New Zealand. The showcase is the majestic Mt Cook (Aoraki). NZ’s greatest climber Sir Edmund Hillary used it as a practice ground before conquering Mt Everest, but Mt Cook has claimed the lives of more than 160 people.

Discuss climbing plans with park rangers before you go.

Rugged is the word often used when it comes to the South Island’s west coast. It’s quite an amazing place, sparsely inhabited, untouched in many areas and studded with geographical wonders. Don’t miss the two mighty glaciers, Fox and Franz Josef, or the Pancake Rocks.

Department of Conservation Visitor Information Centre Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Village, 03 435 1819

A stunning turquoise-coloured lake, 100km west of Timaru. The tiny Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935, frames the view beautifully.

Activities include walking, watersports, fishing and skiing.

The Cook Connection Day trips to Mt Cook from Tekapo.

Ph: 021 583 211, cookconnect.co.nz

Tailor-Made-Tekapo Backpackers (BBH) 9-11 Aorangi Cres. 03 680 6700, rtailor-made-backpackers@ xtra.co.nz

Mount Cook National Par

Lake Tekapo Backpackers (VIP) SH8. 03 680 6808, stay@laketekapo.bix

Mountain Chalets (VIP) Wairepo Rd, Twizel. 03 435 0785, mt.chalets@xtra.co.nz

YHA Lake Tekapo 3 Simpson Lane. 03 680 6857, yha.co.nz

YHA Mt Cook Cnr Bowen and Kitchener Drives. 03 435 1820, yha.co.nz

MT COOK STAY

KARAMEA

Buller Gorge Swingbridge Adventure and Heritage Park 03 523 9809, bullergorge.co.nz The Lazy Cow Accommodation (BBH) 37 Waller St. 03 523 9451, lazycow@paradise.net.nz

REEFTON The centrepiece of the town is Victoria Forest Park, the largest forest park in New Zealand.

Karamea contains pleasant walks, interesting caves and the Oparara River, a great trout fishing spot.

Walk along the wonderful Fernian Track or, try the more challenging hike up Mt Stormy.

Reefton Visitor Centre 67 Broadway, 03 732 8391 Reefton Backpackers 64 Shiel St. 03 732 8133, armsstat@hotmail.com

Karamea Information Centre Bridge St, 03 782 6652

The Old Nurses Home (BBH) 204 Shiel St. 03 789 8881

Rongo (BBH) 03 782 6667, rongo@actrix.co.nz

MURCHISON

WESTPORT

With crazy terrain skewed by mining and earthquakes, one of the major attractions of Murchison is its proximity to Buller Gorge, a wonderfully scenic cluster of cliffs and trees. Activities include rafting on the Gowan River and mountain biking on the Matakitaki.

Visitor Information Westport 1 Brougham St, 03 789 6658 Basils Hostel (VIP) 54 Russell St. 03 789 6410, basils.backpackers@xtra.co.nz

SHUTTLE BUS TRANSPORT September 15th 2011 - May 31st 2012

Stay warm and Dry in our new Dry suits

TEKAPO TWIZEL

Daily 2 x Day

MT COOK MT COOK

Bookings Essential. Call our Reservations Freephone:

0800 2 6 6 5 2 6

COOK CO

Web address: www.cookconnect.co.nz

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SOUTHISLAND

FRANZ JOSEF

Beaconstone (BBH) Birds Ferry Road, Charleston.

03 715 5760

The glacier is about 12km long and offers a wide variety of challenging activities. To get the ultimate perspective on the magnitude of Franz Josef, head for Sentinel Rock, which gives a sweeping view over both the Waiho Valley and the mighty glacier.

CHECK OUT!

Berlins Café & Lodgings (BBH) 1205 Lower Buller Gorge, Inangahua Junction. 03 789 0295, info@xtremeadventures.co.nz Pounamu Backpackers (BBH) Section 406, S H’way 6m Charleston. 03 789 8011, paulhoney@xtra.co.nz Robyn’s Nest Hostel 42 Romilly St. 03 789 6565, robyns.nest@xtra.co.nz Swaines (BBH) Inangahua Landing Bridge, Highway 69, Inangahua Jnctn. 03 789 0226, cathy.swaine@gmail.com

SIX60 The Colombo. Sat, March 24. $43.

These Kiwi boys blend soul, dub-step and drum and bass, with a vibrant percussion section thrown in for good measure.

The Old Slaughterhouse (BBH) Highway 67, Hector.

03 782 8333

This park is home to the amazing Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. These are a series of eroded limestone rocks moulded into what appears to be a giant stack of pancakes.

Visitor Information Punakaiki 03 731 1895 Barrytown Knife Making 2662 Coast Road, Barrytown, 03 731 1053, barrytownknifemaking.com

PAPAROA STAY Punakaiki Beach Hostel (BBH) 4 Webb St. 03 731 1852, punakaikibeachhostel.co.nz Te Nikau Retreat (BBH, YHA) 03 731 1111, tenikauretreat.co.nz All Nations Hotel & Backpackers (VIP) SH6, Barrytown. 03 731 1812, allnations@xtra.co.nz

GREYMOUTH The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Grey River.

Highlights include the Monteith’s brewery tour, as well as aquatic activities like rafting and canyoning.

Visitor Information Herbert and Mackay Sts, 03 768 5101 TranzAlpine Scenic railway from Christchurch to Greymouth, travelling through Canterbury Plains and the Alps. Departs 9am every morning.

0800 872 467 tranzscenic.co.nz

GREYMOUTH STAY The west coast’s largest town is dominated by the Duke Backpackers (BBH) 27 Guiness St. 03 768 9470

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Colombo St, Christchurch Global Village (BBH) 42-54 Cowper St, Ph: (03) 768 7272, globalvillage@minidata.co.nz The Hairy Lemon 128-130 Mawhera Quay, 03 768 4022, Neptunes International Backpackers (BBH) 43 Gresson St, 0800 003 768, info@neptunesbackpackers.co.nz Noahs Ark Backpackers (BBH) 16 Chapel St, 03 768 4868, noahsark@xtra.co.nz The Ranch 37 MacDougall Ave, 03 762 7801, dunolliebackpackers@hotmail.com YHA Greymouth Kainga-ra 15 Alexander St, Ph: (03) 768 4951, www.yha.co.nz

nztix.co.nz Mountain Jade Backpackers (BBH) 41 Weld St, 03 755 8007, mtjade@minidata.co.nz Riverview Cabins (BBH) 154 Kaniere Rd, 03 755 7440 Stumpers Accommodation 2 Weld St, 03 755 6154, www.stumpers.co.nz

HOKITIKA DO Alpine Rafts Freephone: 0800 223 456.

The Just Jade Experience Design and create your own treasures with NZ jade/ greenstone. Allow at least 6-10 hours. 197 Revell St, 03 755 7612, madkiwi.co.nz

HOKITIKA

WHATAROA

Greenstone, a form of practically indestructible rock that was used by the Maori to make weapons and ornaments, is the main attraction here. There’s also the Westland Water World for all things wet, the Glowworm Dell and some excellent whitewater rafting.

About 35km south of Harihari and one of the South Island’s prime fishing spots. Also the magnificent white heron (Kotuku) colony which thrillseekers can reach by jet boat.

Hokitika Visitor Info Centre Carnegie Building, corner of Hamilton & Tancred Street, 03 755 6166

The tiny beach settlement of Okarito, near Franz Josef Glacier, sits at the mouth of New Zealand’s largest unmodified wetland – the Okarito Lagoon. Hike up to the Okarito Trig for excellent views.

HOKITIKA STAY

OKARITO

Beach House BPs 137 Revell St, 03 755 6859

Okarito Nature Tours 03 753 4014, kayaks@okarito.co.nz

Birdsong (BBH) 124 SH6, 03 755 7179

Royal Hostel (BBH) The Strand, Ph: (03) 753 4080, okaritohostel.com

Drifting Sands Backpackers (BBH) 197 Revell St, 03 755 7612, www.madkiwi.co.nz

YHA Okarito Palmerston St, Whataroa, Ph: (03) 753 4347, yha.co.nz

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Ivory Towers (BBH) 03 751 0838, ivorytowerslodge.co.nz

FOX DO Fox Glacier Guiding Guided walks and heli-hikes on the FoxGlacier. 0800 111 600, foxguides.co.nz

DOC Visitors Information Centre Westland National Park, Hwy 6, 03 752 0796

Glacier Country Kayaks 20 Cron St, 0800 423 262, glacierkayaks.com

FRANZ STAY

Skydive NZ: Fox Glacier 0800 751 0080, skydivingnz.co.nz

Black Sheep (VIP) SH 6, 03 752 0007

TripInn (BBH) 72 Queen St. 03 789 7367

PAPAROA NP

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Chateau Franz (VIP, BBH) 8-10 Cron St, 0800 728 372, www.chateaufranz.co.nz Glow Worm Cottages (BBH) 27 Cron St, 0800 151 027, www.budgetaccommodation.co.nz Montrose (BBH) 9 Cron St, Ph: (03) 752 0188, montrosebackpackers@xtra.co.nz Rainforest Retreat (VIP) Cron St, 0800 873 346 YHA Franz Josef 2-4 Cron St, 03 752 0754, www.yha.co.nz

FRANZ DO Alpine Adventure Centre Footage on a helimax screen, 03 752 0793 Franz Josef Glacier Guides Guided walks and heli-hikes on the Franz Josef Glacier 0800 484 337, franzjosefglacier.com Glacier Country Kayaks 03 752 0230, glacierkayaks.com Skydive Franz At 18,000ft, they offer NZ’s highest skydive.

0800 458 677, skydivefranz.co.nz The Guiding Company 0800 800 102, nzguides.com

FOX GLACIER Similiar activities to Franz Josef only with fewer crowds. The best walk is up to the Welcome Flat Hot Springs.

For stunning views, head up the wonderfully scenic Chalet Lookout Walk. Look out for the beautiful kea (grey-green mountain parrot).

Nearby is Lake Matheson, with its stunning twin mountain reflection.

DOC Visitor Centre State Hwy 6, 03 751 0807

FOX STAY Fox Glacier Inn 03 751 0088

HAAST PASS Running through Mt Aspiring National Park, this stretch of road is among the most scenic that you’ll come across in New Zealand, showing off pristine lakes, magnificent forests and waterfalls.

DOC Centre Cnr SH 6 and Jackson Bay Rd, 03 750 0809 Haast Highway Accommodation Marks Rd, 03 750 0703 Wilderness Backpackers (BBH) Marks Rd, 03 750 029, whitesnalex@xtra.co.nz

SOUTHLAND The top of your chest will quickly get sore as the South Island’s jawdropping scenery becomes more prevalent. From the adrenalin thrills of Queenstown to the achingly beautiful Milford Sound, there’s never a dull moment down south.

Stop frequently, take deep breaths and enjoy one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

Mt Aspiring National Park Visitor Info Centre Cnr Ballantyne Rd & Ardmore St, 03 443 8372

LAKE WANAKA The cosy town and its crystal-clear waters which reflect the dramatic landscape is the gateway to Mount Aspiring Park. The World Heritage area has magnificent tramping and mountaineering. Lake Wanaka boasts almost as many adrenalintastic activities as neighbouring Queenstown, such as mountain biking, jet-boating, canyoning, and whitewater sledging. It’s a favourite with snowboarders in winter, and has lively nightlife year-round.

Boasting the most sceneray from those films with wizards and hairyfooted hobbits, there are great Lord of the Rings tours, too.

Lake Wanaka Visitors Centre The Log Cabin, Lakefront, 100 Ardmore Street.

03 4431 1233

WANAKA STAY Albert Town Lodge (BBH) Cnr SH6 and Kingston St, Albert Town, 03 443 9487, alberttownlodge.co.nz

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Holly’s Backpackers (BBH) 71 Upton St, 03 443 8187, hollys@xtra.co.nz Mountain View Backpackers (BBH) 7 Russell St, 0800 112 201, stay@mtnview.co.nz The Purple Cow (BBH) 94 Brownston St, 03 443 1880, purplecow.co.nz Wanaka Bakpaka (BBH) 117 Lakeside Rd, 03 443 7837, wanakabakpaka@xtra.co.nz YHA Wanaka 181 Upton St, 03 443 7405, yha.co.nz

WANAKA DO Adventure Consultants Mountaineering instruction courses and guided ascents, 03 443 8711, adventure.co.nz Aspiring Guides Guided mountain climbing and ice climbing instruction courses, 03 443 9422, aspiringguides.com Classic Flights Vintage Tiger Moth flights over Lake Wanaka.

03 443 4043, classicflights.co.nz Deep Canyon Canyoning in the Matukituki Valley. Adventure Wanaka, 23 Dunmore St, Wanaka, 03 443 7922, deepcanyon.co.nz Frogz Have More Fun Sledge down either the Clutha, Hawea or Kawarau Rivers.

0800 437 649, frogz.co.nz The Silver Demon Aerobatic flights.

03 443 4043, silverdemon.co.nz Skydive Lake Wanaka Freefall from 12,000 or 15,000ft with views of NZ’s highest mountains.

0800 786 877, skydivenz.com Treble Cone Ski Field 03 443 7443, treblecone.co.nz Wanaka Rock Climbing One, three and five-day rock climbing courses for everyone.

03 443 6411, wanakarock.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise from Wanaka, 03 443-8787, flightseeing.co.nz Wanaka Sightseeing Includes Lord of the Rings tours, 2 Anderson Rd, 03 338 0982, wanakasightseeing.co.nz

LAKE HAWEA Thirty-five kilometres long and more than 400m deep, Lake Hawea is a great source of salmon and rainbow trout.

QUEENSTOWN Paradise for the energetic traveller, Queenstown is one of the world’s most action-packed towns. The town, which is surprisingly small compared to its big reputation, is located on Lake Wakatipu and rises up to the peaks of the aptly-named Remarkables (which you can ski in winter). In winter, the town is a centre for nearby skifields and in summer adventure activities and tramping take over. There’s also a hectic social scene which extends well into the wee small hours.

Info & Track Walking Centre 37 Shotover St, 03 442 9708 Queenstown Travel & Visitor Centre Corner of Shotover & Camp Sts, 03 442 4100

Q’TOWN STAY Alpine Lodge (BBH) 13 Gorge Rd. 03 442 7220, alpinelodge@xtra.co.nz Aspen Lodge (BBH) 11 Gorge Rd. 03 442 9671, aspenlodge.co.nz Base Discovery Lodge Queenstown 49 Shotover St. 03 441 1185, stayatbase.com Black Sheep Lodge (BBH/VIP) 13 Frankton Rd. 03 442 7289, blacksheepbackpackers.co.nz Bungi Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 15 Sydney St. 0800 728 286, bungibackpackers.co.nz Butterfli Lodge (BBH) 62 Thompson St. 03 442 6367, butterfli.co.nz Cardrona Alpine Resort Between Queenstown and Wanaka. 03 443 7341, cardrona.com Deco Backpackers (VIP, BBH) 52 Man St. 03 442 7384, decobackpackers.co.nz Flaming Kiwi Backpackers (BBH) 39 Robins Rd. 03 442 5494, flamingkiwi@xtra.co.nz

Queenstown Lodge Sainsbury Rd, Fernhill. 0800 756 343, queenstownlodge.co.nz Scallywags Traveller’s Guesthouse (BBH) 27 Lomond Crescent.

03 442 7083 Southern Laughter (BBH, VIP) 4 Isle St. 0800 728 448, southernlaughter.co.nz The Last Resort (BBH) 6 Memorial St. 03 442 4320, thelastresort@xtra.co.nz The Lost Sock 107 Hallenstein St. 03 442 8107 Thomas’s Hotel & BPs (VIP) 50 Beach St. 03 442 7180 YHA Queenstown Central 48A Shotover Street.

03 442 7400, yha.co.nz YHA Queenstown Lakefront 88-90 Lake Esplanade.

03 442 8413, yha.co.nz

Q’TOWN DO There are hundreds of activities to keep you occupied in Queenstown.

Bungy, jetboating and rafting are all experiences not to be missed, and in winter, skiing the Remarkables is a must. To really appreciate the beauty of the region, take a scenic flight, or even jump out of the plane.

AJ Hackett Bungy Queenstown Jump off one or all of New Zealand’s most well-known sites. Nevis Highwire Bungy, the highest in New Zealand – 134m above the Nevis River. The Kawarau Bridge, the world’s first bungy – 43m above the Kawarau River. The 47m Ledge, 400m above the town which you can jump day or night. Access is

by Skyline Gondola.

0800 286 4958 bungy.co.nz Awesome Foursome Bungy (Nevis – 134m), jetboat, helicopter, whitewater rafting, 03 442 7318 Dart River Safaris Jetboating wilderness tours, 0800 327 8538, dartriver.co.nz

Nevis Snowmobile Safaris Helicopter ride & snowmobile adventure, 03 442 4250, snowmobilenz.com

Shotover Canyon Swing Jump or be released 109m off the world’s highest cliff jump.

0800 279 464, canyonswing.co.nz

Real Journeys Coaches to Milford Sound, 0800 656 503 Scenic Shuttle Daily between Te Anau and Invercargill in summer months, twice weekly in winter.

Connects with the Catlins Coaster from Invercargill to Dunedin 0800 277 483 Top Line Tours Coach to and from Te Anau and Queenstown, 03 249 8059

Shotover Jet Jetboat ride. 0800 746 868 shotoverjet.com

TE ANAU STAY

Sky Trek Hang Gliding 03 442 9551, skytrek.co.nz

Barnyard Backpackers (BBH) 80 Mt York Rd, Rainbow Downs, 03 249 8006, rainbowdowns@xtra.co.nz

Vertigo Mountain Biking Heli-bike and gondola downhill.

0800 837 8446, vertigobikes.co.nz

Bob & Maxines (BBH) 20 Paton Place, 03 931 3161, bob.anderson@woosh.co.nz

GLENORCHY Just out of Queenstown is Glenorchy (or “Isengard”) which has some of the best walks in the area, including the Greenstone and Caples tracks.

Department of Conservation Beech St, 03 442 7933 Glenorchy Backpackers Retreat (VIP) Cnr Mull and Argyle Streets, Glenorchy, Ph: (03) 442 9902 Kinloch Lodge (BBH) 862 Kinloch Rd, 03 442 4900, kinlochlodge.co.nz

ARROWTOWN

Fergburger Best burgers in NZ, Shotover St, 03 441 1232

Riverdown Guesthouse (BBH) 7 Bedford St, 03 409 8499

Pinewood Lodge (VIP) Queenstown’s best value accommodation. We offer an excellent variety of accommodation, everything from deluxe en-suite rooms with private bathroom amenities, inexpensive double and twin rooms, dorm beds and selfcontained family cabins. 48 Hamilton Rd. 0800 746 396, 03 442 8273, pinewood.co.nz

Flight Park Tandem Paragliding Operates from Coronet Peak 0800 467 325, tandemparagliding.com

Resort Lodge (BBH) 6 Henry St. 03 442 4970, resortlodge.co.nz

Air Fiordland Flights to Queenstown, Milford and Mt Cook, 03 249 7505

Real Journeys Visitor Centre Doubtful Sound & Milford Sound daytime and overnight cruises.

Te Anau glow-worm cave excursions. TSS Earnslaw vintage steamship cruises and Walter Peak High Country Farm.

0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz

Nomads Queenstown 5-11 Church St. 03 441 3922, nomadshostels.com

Milford Sound Flightseeing Scenic flights to Milford Sound, 0800 65 65 01, realjourneys.co.nz

Te Anau Glowworm Caves realjourneys.co.nz

NZ Ski.com Info on Coronet Peak, the Remarkables and Mt Hutt, nzski.com

Poplar Lodge (BBH) 4 Merioneth St, 03 442 1466, stay@poplarlodge.co.nz

Mad Dog River Boarding River sledging & other actionpacked water activities, 03 442 7797, riverboarding.co.nz

Department of Conservation 03 249 8514

NZONE Skydive Skydive from 15,000ft. 35 Shotover St, 03 442 5867, nzone.biz

Fat Tyre Adventure Mountain biking/heli biking, 0800 328 897, fat-tyre.co.nz

Hippo Lodge (BBH) 4 Anderson Hts. 03 442 5785, hippolodge.co.nz

Fiordland I-site Visitor Centre Lakefront Drive, Te Anau, 03 249 8900

TE ANAU Home to the second largest lake in NZ, Te Anau is a beautiful little town, a good jumping off point for the World Heritage Fiordland National Park. The park is the largest in New Zealand and offers some spectacular sightseeing. The Milford Track is one of the most famous in the world, but often booked out. The Routeburn, ReesDart and Kepler are ace alternatives. doc.govt.nz

Grumpy’s Backpackers Te Anau-Milford Sound Highway, 03 249 8133, grumpys@xtra.co.nz Rosies Backpacker Homestay (BBH) 23 Tom Plato Drive, 03 249 8431, backpack@paradise.net.nz Steamers Beach Backpackers (BBH) 77 Manapouri Rd, 03 249 7457, teanau.info Te Anau Lakefront Backpackers (BBH) 48 Lakefront Dr, 03 249 7713, teanaubackpackers.co.nz YHA Te Anau 29 Mokonui St, 03 249 7847, yha.co.nz

TE ANAU DO Adventure Fiordland 72 Town Centre, 03 249 8500 Fiordland Ecology Holidays 3-10 day cruises, all Southern Fiords. Mammal watching permit, 0800 249 660, fiordland.gen.nz High Ride Adventures Quad riding and scenic horse trekking. 03 249 8591, highride.co.nz Luxmore Jet Jetboating on the Waiau River, 0800 253 826, luxmorejet.co.nz

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SOUTHISLAND Real Journeys Doubtful Sound daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises. Milford Sound daytime, overnight scenic, nature and small boat cruises. 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz Milford Track Day Walk Lake cruise and guided walk, 0800 656 501 Rosco’s Milford Sound Sea Kayaks 0800 476 726, roscosmilfordkayaks Skydive Fiordland Dive 44 Caswell Rd, Te Anau, 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz

MILFORD SOUND Green, wet and breathtakingly beautiful, Milford Sound is one of the most picturesque sights in the world. Much of the action in the Milford Sound takes place on the water and the best way to appreciate the beauty on show is on a cruise or kayak. Bottlenose dolphins, New Zealand fur seals and Fiordland crested penguins all hang out there.

Milford Sound Lodge (BBH) 03 249 8071, milford.sound.lodge@xtra.co.nz

MILFORD DO

Tracknet 03 249 7737, res@tracknet.net.au

Real Journeys 0800 656 501, reservations@realjourneys.co.nz

ANAU TO MILFORD

Great Sights On and under the water, 03 442 9445

The distance between Te Anau and Milford Sound may be 119km but the breathtaking scenery along the way makes the journey extremely enjoyable. Along the road watch out for the Mirror Lakes and the disappearing mountain. Another highlight is the 1.2km rough-hewn Homer Tunnel. It’s pitch black, having no lighting plus it’s pretty darn steep – a thrilling experience for those afraid of the dark.

Kiwi Reel Rifle Guided fishing & hunting.

Kayaking on Lakes Te Anau, Manapouri and Milford Sound.

Rental kayaks and mountain bikes, 03 249 9071 Milford Sound Underwater Observatory Discover a coral reef beneath Milford Sound, 03 249 9442

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BOOK NOW! Milford Sound Cruise & Observatory Visit 0800 656 501

Adventure Charters and Hires 03 249 6626

Milford Wanderer Cruises Day and overnight options with kayaking, etc. Coach connections, 0800 656 501, realjourneys.co.nz Tawaki Dive See Fiordland’s unique marine life on a day-trip with two guided dives in Milford Sound.

Rental gear available, max four divers. 0800 829254, tawakidive.co.nz TSS Earnslaw & Walter Peak Farm tours, barbecue lunches, horse treks and cycling. realjourneys.co.nz Wanaka Flightseeing Milford Sound flight and cruise, 0800 105 105, flightseeing.co.nz

MANAPOURI Manapouri is the proud owner of arguably New Zealand’s most beautiful stretch of water. This is where the boat trip on Doubtful Sound leaves from – most start the trip in Queenstown or Te Anau.

From the boat you may see seals and possibly dolphins and penguins.

Real Journeys 0800 656 502

MANAPOURI STAY Freestone Backpackers (BBH) 270 Hillside Rd, 03 249 6893, freestone@xtra.co.nz Manapouri Lakeview Backpackers (VIP) 68 Cathedral Drive, 03 249 6652, manapouri@clear.net.nz Possum Lodge (BBH) 13 Murrel Ave, 03 249 6623.

DOUBTFUL SOUND If you’re not one for crowds, an alternative Fiordland option is Doubtful Sound – the deepest of the fiords, made up of 100km of waterways. Where Milford is all pointy peaks and endless cascading falls, Doubtful is rounded mountains – a serene sanctuary, inhabited by loads of interesting critters.

Real Journeys Daytime wilderness, small boat and overnight cruises.

0800 656 502

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Fiordland Navigator Pearl Harbour, Manapouri 03 249 6602, yha.co.nz Deep Cove Hostel Doubtful Sound, 03 249 7713, hostel.co.nz

INVERCARGILL The southernmost city in New Zealand, Invercargill is a farmingorientated community with a pleasant collection of parks and museums to keep you busy.

Invercargill I-site Visitors Centre 108 Gala St, 03 214 6243 Dept of Conservation Office Don St, 03 214 4589 Catlins Coaster Invercargill to Dunedin via the Catlins with many stops to the main natural attractions and wildlife encounters. Farmstay options are available, 0800 304333, catlinscoaster.co.nz Stewart Island Flights Flights to Stewart Island, 03 218 9129, sif@xtra.co.nz

WORD FROM THE STREET

Clare Wilkes, England HOWDY CLARE. WHAT’S UP? “I’ve just been travelling between Christchurch, Wanaka and Queenstown.”

GOT A FAVE PLACE? “Wanaka. It’s simply beautiful and a great place to spend a few hours just walking around the lake then enjoying a coffee at one of the lakeside cafés.”

WHAT ABOUT AFTER DARK? “Fergburger in Queenstown for eating, and Mint Bar in Wanaka for drinking – they have great drinks promotions every night.”

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INVERCARG STAY Kackling Kea Backpackers (BBH) 225 Tweed St, 03 214 7950 Southern Comfort (BBH) 30 Thompson St, 03 218 3838 Tuatara Lodge (VIP) 30 Dee St, 03 214 0956, tuataralodge.co.nz

SOUTHERN SCENIC The beautiful road west of Invercargill towards Fiordland is known as the Southern Scenic Route.

The Dubliner (BBH) 105 Tiverton St, Palmerston, 03 465 1896, andreas69@xtra.co.nz Dustez Bak Paka’s (BBH) 15 Colac Bay Rd, Riverton, 03 234-8399 dustez@xtra.co.nz The Globe Backpackers (VIP) 144 Palmerston St, Riverton, 03 234 8527, globebackpackers@xtra.co.nz Harbison Backpackers (BBH) 5 Harbison St, Otautau, 03 225 8715, michdale@xtra.co.nz Shooters Backpackers 73 Main St, Tuatapere, 03 226 6250

GORE Gore spans the Mataura river and boasts some lovely scenery in the Hokonui Hills and the Country and Western festival each June.

Old Fire Station Backpackers (BBH) 19 Hokonui Dr, 03 208 1925, oldfirestation@ispnz.co.nz Anglem House 20 Miro Crescent, 03 219 1552, yha.co.nz

THE CATLINS The beautiful Catlins is a sprawling mass of bush, forest and rivers, stretching all the way from Waipapa Point in Southland to Nugget Point in Otago. The best bit about the Catlins is the abundance of wildlife.

Catlins Community Info Centre 3 Main Rd, Owaka, South Otago, 03 415 8371, info@catlins-nz.com Elm Lodge Wildlife Tours Two-day camping trips, 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz

CATLINS STAY Blowhole Backpackers (BBH) 24 Main Rd, Owaka, 03 415 5635, catlinsbackpackers@xtra.co.nz

Curio Bay Backpacker Accommodation (BBH) 501 Curio Bay Rd, 03 246 8797.

The Falls Backpackers (BBH) Purakaunui Falls Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8724, sparx@es.co.nz Fernlea Backpackers (VIP) Moana St, Kaka Point, 03 412 8834 The Split Level (BBH) 9 Waikawa Rd, Owaka, 03 415 8304, brianwayne@clear.net.nz Surat Bay Lodge (BBH) Surat Bay Rd, New Haven, 03 415 8099, www.suratbay.co.nz/ Penguin Paradise Holiday Lodge (BBH) 612 Waikawa-Niagara Rd, Waikawa Village South Catlins, 03 2468 552, dolphinsurf@xtra.co.nz Thomas Catlins Lodge & Holiday Park, 03 415 8333, yha.co.nz Wright’s Mill Lodge (BBH) 865 Tahakopa Valley Rd, 03 204 8424 catlinsaccommodation.co.nz

DUNEDIN Dunedin is Celtic for “Edinburgh” and many Scottish principles endure here. One thing the locals do much better than their Scots ancestors is play rugby, so if there’s a game on at Carisbrook (the “House of Pain”) while you’re in town, beg, borrow or steal to get yourself there.

Dunedin Visitor Centre 48 The Octagon, 03 474 3300 Dept of Conservation Office 77 Stuart St, 03 477 0677 Penguin Patch 9 the Octagon, 03 471 8571, Email: penguinpatch@xtra.co.nz

DUNEDIN STAY The Asylum Lodge (BBH) 36 Russell Rd, Seacliff, 03 465 8123 Bus Stop backpackers (BBH) 252 Harrington Point Rd, Portobello, 03 478 0330, backpacker@slingshot.co.nz Chalet Backpackers (BBH) 296 High St, 03 479 2075 Dunedin Central Backpackers (BBH) 243 Moray Pl, 03 477 9985, duncb_nz@yahoo.co.nz The Jolly Poacher (BBH) 74 Elm Row, 03 477 3384 Hogwartz (BBH) 277 Rattray St, 03 474 1487, hogwartz@actrix.co.nz

The Jolly Poacher (BBH) 54 Arthur St, 03 477 3384, jollypoacher@ihug.co.nz Kiwis Nest (BBH)597 George St, 03 471 9540.

Leviathan Heritage Hotel 27 Queens Gardens, 0800 773 773, leviathan@xtra.co.nz Manor House (BBH) 28 Manor Place, 03 477 0484, manorhousebackpackers.co.nz On Top Backpackers (BBH) 12 Filleul St, cnr Moray Pl, 03 477 6121.

Pennys Backpackers (BBH) 6 Stafford St, 03 477 6027, info@pennys.co.nz Queens Garden Backpackers (VIP) 42 Queens Garden, 03 479 2175, dunedinbackpackers@xtra.co.nz Ramsay Lodge (BBH) 60 Stafford St, 03 477 6313, ramsay.lodge@xtra.co.nz YHA Dunedin, Stafford Gables 71 Stafford St, 03 474 1919, yha.co.nz

DUNEDIN DO Baldwin Street In the Guinness Book of Records as the steepest street in the world.

Cadbury World 280 Cumberland St, 0800 223 2879, cadbury.co.nz Cosmic Corner Funk Store Check out the legal highs and chat to the staff about where to go for parties, events and the beautiful parts of New Zealand.

355 George St, 03 479 2949 Dunedin Public Art Gallery 30 The Octagon, 03 474 3240, dpagmail@dcc.govt.nz Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins just metres away every evening at dusk.

Waterfront Rd, 1-1/2 hrs north of Dunedin, 03 433 1195, penguins.co.nz Parachute Experience Skydiving from a great height 03 489 4113, dropzone.com

OTAGO PENINSULA The Otago Peninsula is a beautiful stretch of rugged coast, home to a fascinating collection of rare and native birds such as the albatross and yellow-eyed penguin.

Chillawhile Backpackers (BBH) & Art Gallery 1 Frome St, Roberts Park, 03 437 0168, chillawhile.co.nz

Billy Browns (BBH) 423 Aramoana Rd, Port Chalmers, 03 472 8323, billybrowns@actrix.co.nz

Coastal Backpackers (BBH) The Hall, Waianakarua Rd, All Day Bay, 03 439 5411, coastalbackpackers.co.nz

McFarmers Backpackers (BBH) 774 Portobello Rd, Portobello, 02 5206 0640, mcfarmersbackpackers @hotmail.com

Buscot Station (BBH) 732 Omarama, 03 438 9646, buscotstn@xtra.co.nz

OTAGO DO

Empire Hotel (BBH) 13 Thames St, 03 434 3446, empirehotel@hotmail.com

Historic Fort Taiaroa An underground complex built in the 1880s, this fortified stronghold has been inhabited since earliest Maori settlement of the area. Tours available at the Visitor Centre. Fletcher House, Broad Bay, 03 478 0180

Old Bones Backpackers (BBH) Rapid Number 468 Beach Rd, Kakanui, 03 434 8115, simon@oldbones.co.nz

Larnach Castle Australasia’s only castle. The architecture is amazing and the intricate details (including a foyer ceiling that took nearly seven years to build) are breathtaking.

YHA Oamaru, Red Kettle Seasonal (open September/ October to May/June only).

Corner of Reed and Cross Sts, 03 434 5008, yha.co.nz

NZ Marine Studies Centre and Aquarium Run by the University of Otago, the Portobello Aquarium and Marine Biology Centre (near Quarantine Point) is a refuge for a diverse collection of fish and reptile life.

03 479 5826 Elm Wildlife Tours 0800 356 563, elmwildlifetours.co.nz

TAIAROA HEAD

Alexandra and Roxburgh are the two main towns for fruit-picking work in the Central Otago region.

Two Bob Flashpackers (BBH) Marshalll Rd, 03 449 3188, twobobs@xtra.co.nz

Sinclair Wetlands and Educational Centre Freedom or conducted walks over 5km of walkways.

Backpacker and camping facilities. Rapid no 854 Clarendon/Berwick Rd (signposted on SH1 30km south of Dunedin), 03 486 2654

Villa Rose Backpackers (BBH) 79 Scotland St, 03 446 8761, remarkableorchards@xtra.co.nz

Speights Brewery Heritage Tours 03 477 7697, speights.co.nz

A charming little place noted for both its interesting collection of white granular limestone buildings and its large penguin population.

Royal Albatross Centre 03 478 0499, albatross.org.nz

Visitor Information Centre Thames St, 03 434 1656

ROXBURGH

OAMARU

Swaggers Backpackers (BBH) 25 Wansbeck St, 03 434 9999, swaggers@es.co.nz

MOERAKI Just 30km south of Oamaru lies a remarkable collection of eerie giant boulders.

Olive Grove Lodge (BBH) 2328 SH1, Waianakarua, 03 439 5830, info@olivebranch.co.nz

Taiaroa Head is the place to see the albatross colony, the only mainland colony in the world inside the bounds of a city.

ALEXANDRIA

Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony View blue penguins at dusk.

Waterfront Rd, 03 433 1195, penguins.co.nz

The Dubliner 105 Tiverton St, Palmerston, 03 465 8123

KUROW Glenmac Farm Hostel (BBH) Gards Rd, 03 436 0200, glenmac@xtra.co.nz

STEWART ISLAND The third major island of New Zealand, Stewart is home to wide array of wildlife and some good tramping. Much of Stewart Island is uninhabitable, not surprising given that the island contains 1,680km2 of thick, unrelenting bush.

DOC Stewart Island Visitor Centre Main Rd, Half Moon Bay, 03 219 0002 Real Journeys Stewart Island Ferry Services, Paterson Inlet cruises (including Ulva Island), village and bays tours, guided walks and rental services (motor scooters, mountain bikes and cars), realjourneys.co.nz

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ONWARDSFIJI NADI & WEST Aquarius Pacific Hotel +679 672 6000 Beach Escape Villas +679 672 4442, beachscape@ connect.com.fj Cathay Hotel +679 666 0566, fiji4less.com Horizon Beach Resort +679 672 2832, horizonbeachfiji.com Nadi Bay Resort Hotel +679 672 3599, fijinadibayhotel.com Nadi Down Town Backpackers Inn +679 670 0600, pacvalley@connect.com.fj Nadi Hotel +679 670 0000, ndht@connect.com.fj

Coconut Bay Resort +679 666 6644 coconutbay_fiji2002@yahoo.com Korovou Eco Tour Resort +679 666 6644 korovoultk@connect.com.fj Kuata Resort +679 666 6644 Long Beach Backpackers Resort +679 666 6644 Manta Ray Island +679 672 6351 mantarayisland@connect.com.fj Nabua Lodge +679 666 9173 nabualodge@connect.com.fj Oarsmans Bay Lodge +679 672 2921 nacula@hotmail.com

Nomads Skylodge Hotel +679 672 2200

Octopus Resort +679 666 6337 reservations@octopusresort.com

Saweni Beach Apartment Hotel +679 666 1777, fiji4less.com

Sunrise Lagoon Resort +679 666 6644

Smugglers Cove Beach Resort +679 672 6578, smugglers beachfiji.com

Wayalailai Island Resort +679 672 1377 wayalailai@connect.com.fj

Travellers Beach Resort +679 672 3322, beachvilla@connect.com.fj

White Sandy Beach Dive Resort +679 666 4066

YASAWA ISLANDS Awesome Adventures Fiji +679 675 0499, awesomefiji.com

MAMANUCA ISL Beachcomber Island Resort +679 666 1500, beachcomberfiji.com

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BOOK NOW! Bounty Island Resort +679 666 6999, fiji-bounty.com Rau Kini’s Hostel +679 672 1959, rtkinihostel@connect.com.fj The Funky Fish Beach Resort +679 628 2333, funkyfishresort.com The Resort Walu Beach +679 665 1777, walubeach.com

CORAL COAST Beachouse +679 653 0500, fijibeachouse.com Mango Bay Resort +679 653 00690, mangobayresortfiji.com Pacific Safaris Club +679 345 0498, safariclub@connect.com.fj Rendezvous Dive Resort +679 628 4427, surfdivefiji.com Robinson Crusoe +679 629 1999, robinsoncrusoeislandfiji.com Seashell Cove Resort +679 670 6100, seashellresort.com Tabukula Beach Bungalows +679 650 0097, fiji4less.com The Uprising Beach Resort +679 345 2200, uprisingbeachresort.com

Tsulu Luxury Backpackers & Apartments +679 345 0065, tsulu.com Vakaviti Motel & Dorm +679 650 0526, bulavakaviti@connect.com.fj Vilisite Place +679 650 1030

SUVA

@tnt_downunder

Morrison’s Beach Cottagess +679 669 4516, tipple@connect.com.fj Safari Lodge Fijis +679 669 3333 safarilodge.com.fj Volivoli Beach Resort +679 669 4511, volivoli.com

VANUA LEVU

Colonial Lodge +679 92 75248, sailevukaga@yahoo.co.nz

Bayside Backpacker Cottage +679 885 3154, tripntour@connect.com.fj

Lami Lodge Backpackers +679 336 2240, volau@connect.com.fj

Hidden Paradise Guest House +678 885 0106

Leleuvia Island Resort +679 331 9567, eleen@leleuvia. com

Naveria Heights Lodge +679 851 0157, justnaveria@connect.com.fj

Raintree Lodge +679 332 0562, raintreelodge.com

Savusavu Hot Springs +679 885 0195, hotspringshotel@connect.com.fjj

Royal Hotel +679 344 0024 royal@connect.com.fj South Seas Private Hotel +679 331 2296, fiji4less.com Tailevu Hotel +679 343 0028

NORTH VITI LEVU Bethams Cottage +679 669 4132, bethams.com.fj Macdonalds Beach Cottages +679 669 4633

TAVEUNI Albert’s Sunrise +679 333 7555 Matava Resort +679 330 5222, matava.com Reece’s Place +679 362 6319 Waisalima Beach Resort +679 738 9236, waisalima.com

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

OVALAU ISLAND Ovalau is a sexy island in the Lomaiviti Group in Fiji’s traditional heartland. Little Levuka is its biggest town and one of Fiji’s prettiest, hugging a strip of land between the sea and the slopes of Nandelaiovalau, the island’s single volcanic peak. Wander the old colonial streets and engage the locals in a chat – they’re some of the country’s friendliest. When you’ve had enough of Levuka, hike out on the dusty road towards Lovoni, an indigenous village inhabited by proud locals and snugly nestled in the island’s spectacular crater.

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ONWARDSAUSTRALIA

SYDNEY STAY Base Sydney 477 Kent St. CBD. 02 9267 7718, stayatbase.com

BOOK NOW!

Bounce Budget Hotel 28 Chalmers St. CBD. 02 9281 2222, bouncehotel.com.au

Westend Backpackers 412 Pitt St. CBD. 1800 013 186 nomadshostels.com Boomerang Backpackers 141 William Street, Kings Cross.

02 8354 0488, boomerangbackpackers.com Dlux Hostel 30 Darlinghurst Rd, Kings Cross. 1800 236 213 dluxbudgethotel.com.au Kangaroo Bak Pak 665 South Dowling St. Surry Hills.

02 9261 1111

ICE CUBE Throughout April. $TBC. The hip hop titan has announced a seven-city Aussie tour of sideshows to complement his Down Under appearance at Supafest.

Cammeray Gardens 66 Palmer St, North Sydney. 02 9954 9371 sydneyboardinghouse.com

BRISBANE STAY Aussie Way Backpackers 34 Cricket St. 07 3369 0711, aussiewaybackpackers.com Banana Bender Backpackers 118 Petrie Terrace.

07 3367 1157, bananabenders.com

CAIRNS STAY Bohemia Central Cairns 100 Sheridan St. 1800 558 589, bohemiacentral.com.au Bohemia Resort Cairns 231 McLeod St. 1800 155 353, bohemiaresort.com.au Calypso Backpackers 5 Digger St. 1800 815 628, calypsobackpackers.com.au Dreamtime Travellers Rest 189 Bunda St. 1800 058 440, dreamtimehostel.com

Montgomery’s YHA 9 Argyle St. 03 6231 2660, yha.com.au

The Spencer 475 Spencer St. 1800 638 108, hotelspencer.com

Narrara Backpackers 88 Goulburn St. 03 6234 8801, narrarabackpackers.com

Urban Central 334 City Rd, Southbank. 1800 631 288, urbancentral.com.au

JJ’s Backpackers Hostel 11 Charles St. 07 4051 7642, jjsbackpackers.com

Lamrock Lodge 19 Lamrock Ave. Bondi.

02 9130 5063, lamrocklodge.com

Brisbane Backpackers Resort 110 Vulture St, West End. 1800 626 452, brisbanebackpackers.com.au

NJOY Travellers Resort 141 Sheridan St. 1800 807 055, njoy.net.au

Lochner’s Guesthouse 8 Gowrae Ave. Bondi.

02 9387 2162,

Brisbane City Apartments 1800 110 443, brisbanecityapartments.com

Nomads Beach House 2 39 Sheridan St. 1800 229 228, nomadshostels.com

Emperor’s Crown 85 Stirling St, Northbridge. 1800 991 553, emperorscrown.com.au

Aegean Coogee Lodge 40 Coogee Bay Rd. Coogee.

04 0817 6634, aegeancoogee.com.au

Brisbane City Backpackers 380 Upper Roma St 1800 062 572, citybackpackers.com

Nomads Cairns 341 Lake St. 1800 737 736, nomadshostels.com

Globe Backpackers & City Oasis Resort 561 Wellington St. 08 9321 4080, globebackpackers.com.au

Brisbane City YHA 392 Upper Roma St 07 3236 1947, yha.com.au

Nomads Esplanade 93 The Esplanade. 1800 175 716, nomadshostels.com

Chill Backpackers 328 Upper Roma St. 1800 851 875, chillbackpackers.com

Northern Greenhouse 117 Grafton St. 1800 000 541, northerngreenhouse.com.au

Boardrider Backpacker Rear 63, The Corso, Manly.

02 9977 3411 boardrider.com.au The Bunkhouse 35 Pine St, Manly.

1800 657 122, bunkhouse.com.au

The Deck Budget Accommodation 117 Harcourt Street, New Farm.

04 3377 7061 Tinbilly Travellers Cnr George and Herschel Sts. 1800 446 646, tinbilly.com

MELBOURNE STAY

Base Melbourne 17 Carlisle St, St. Kilda.

1800 242 273, stayatbase.com Central Melbourne Accommodation 21 Bromham Place, Richmond.

03 9427 9826, centralaccommodation.net

Hobart Hostel 41 Barrack St. 1300 252 192, hobarthostel.com

Space Hotel 380 Russell St. 1800 670 611, spacehotel.com.au

Base Brisbane Central 308 Edward St. 07 3211 2433, stayatbase.com

All Nations Backpackers Hotel & Bar 2 Spencer St. 1800 222 238, allnations.com.au

HOBART STAY Central City Backpackers 138 Collins St. 1800 811 507, centralbackpackers.com.au

Nomads Melbourne 198 A’beckett St. 1800 447 762, nomadshostels.com

Bondi YHA 63 Fletcher Street.

Tamarama. 02 9365 2088, yha.com.au

Bunk Backpackers Cnr Ann & Gipps Sts, Fortitude Valley.

1800 682 865, bunkbrisbane.com.au

Youth Shack 69 Mitchell St. 1300 793 302, youthshack.com.au

Melbourne Central YHA 562 Flinders St. 03 9621 2523, yha.com.au

Base Brisbane Embassy 214 Elizabeth St. 07 3166 8000, stayatbase.com

Glebe Point YHA 262-264 Glebe Point Road. Glebe. 02 9692 8418, yha.com.au

Melaleuca on Mitchell 52 Mitchell St. 1300 723 437, momdarwin.com

Hotel Bakpak Melbourne 167 Franklin St. 1800 645 200, hotelbakpak.com

ticketek.com.au Manly Backpackers 24-28 Raglan St. Manly. 02 9977 3411 manlybackpackers.com.au

Gecko Lodge 146 Mitchell St. 1800 811 250, geckolodge.com.au

Home Travellers Motel 32 Carlisle St, St Kilda. 1800 008 718, hometravellersmotel.com.au

Avalon Beach Hostel 59 Avalon Pde, Avalon Beach.

02 9918 9709, avalonbeach.com.au

Surfside Backpackers 186 Arden Street. Coogee.

02 9315 7888, surfsidebackpackers.com.au

Frogshollow Backpackers 27 Lindsay St. 1800 068 686, frogs-hollow.com.au

Home at the Mansion 66 Victoria Parade. 03 9663 4212, homemansion.com.au

Gilligans Backpackers and Hotel Resort 57-89 Grafton St. 1800 556 995, gilligans.com.au

Coogee Beachside 178 Coogee Bay Rd, Coogee. 02 9315 8511, sydneybeachside.com.au

Elkes Backpackers 112 Mitchell St. 1800 808 365, elkesbackpackers.com.au

Habitat HQ 333 St Kilda Road, St Kilda. 1800 202 500, habitathq.com.au

City Resort Hostel 103-105 Palmer St. Woolloomooloo 02 9357 3333, cityresort.com.au

Sydney Harbour YHA 110 Cumberland Street. The Rocks.

02 9261 1111, yha.com.au

Darwin YHA 97 Mitchell St. 08 8981 5385, yha.com.au

The Greenhouse Backpacker Level 6, 228 Flinders Lane.

1800 249 207, greenhousebackpacker.com.au

Easy Go Backpackers 752 George St. CBD. 02 9211 0505, easygobackpackers.com.au

Sydney Central YHA 11 Rawson Place. CBD. 02 9218 9000 www.yha.com.au

Banyan View Lodge Darwin 119 Mitchell St. 08 8981 8644, banyanviewlodge.com.au

Flinders Station Hotel 35 Elizabeth St. 03 9620 5100, flindersbackpackers.com.au

Big Hostel 212 Elizabeth St. CBD. 02 9267 7718, bighostel.com

The Furnished Property Group 02 8669 3678, furnishedproperty.com.au

DARWIN STAY

Exford Hotel 199 Russell St. 03 9663 2697, exfordhotel.com.au

Pickled Frog 281 Liverpool St. 03 6234 7977, thepickledfrog.com Transit Backpackers 251 Liverpool St. 03 6231 2400, transitbackpackers.com

PERTH STAY Billabong Backpackers Resort 381 Beaufort St. 08 9328 7720, billabongresort.com.au

ADELAIDE STAY

Britannia on William 253 William St, Northbridge. 08 9227 6000, perthbrittania.com

Adelaide Central YHA 135 Waymouth St. 08 8414 3010, yha.com.au Adelaide Travellers Inn 220 Hutt St. 08 8224 0753, adelaidebackpackers.com.au

Ocean Beach Backpackers 1 Eric St, Cottlesloe. 08 9384 5111, oceanbeachbackpackers.com.au One World Backpackers 162 Aberdeen St, Northbridge.

1800 188 100, oneworldbackpackers.com.au

The Old Swan Barracks 6 Francis St. 08 9428 0000, theoldswanbarracks.com

The Witch’s Hat 148 Palmerston St. 08 9228 4228, witchshat.com

Annie’s Place 239 Franklin St. 1800 818 011, anniesplace.com.au Backpack Oz 144 Wakefield St. 1800 633 307, backpackoz.com.au Blue Galah Backpackers Lvl 1, 52-62, King William St. 08) 8231 9295, bluegalah.com.au

Perth City YHA 300 Wellington St. 08 9287 3333, yha.com.au

Underground Backpackers 268 Newcastle St, Northbridge.

08 9228 3755, undergroundbackpackers.com.au

Adelaide Oval Home to the Adelaide Backpackers Inn 112 Carrington St. 1800 24 77 25, adpi.com.au

Glenelg Beach Hostel 5-7 Moseley St. Glenelg. 1800 359 181, glenelgbeachhostel.com.au Hostel 109 109 Carrington St. 1800 099 318, hostel109.com My Place 257 Waymouth St. 1800 221 529, adelaidehostel.com.au Shakespeare Hostel 123 Waymouth St. 1800 556 889, shakeys.com.au

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TOTALLYTRIVIAL

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MYTHBUSTERS THE FALL GUYS?

THIS WEEK’S QUIZ

NEW ZEALAND FACTS MYTH

b) Four d) Six

a) Tasman c) Cook

Zealand’s indigenous people Q 2.areNew known as: a) Aborigines c) Kiwis

What is the name of the sea between Q 7.Australia and New Zealand?

b) Zealans d) Maori

a) Tasman b) Pacific c) Cook d) Atlantic

Which European supposedly Q 3.‘discovered’ New Zealand?

Which of these New Zealand Q 8.birds is extinct?

a) Matthew Flinders b) Captain Cook c) Abel Tasman d) Kupe

a) Kiwi b) Tui c) Huia d) Kea

Q 4. In which month is Anzac Day? a) April c) June

b) May d) July

Q 5. Which is New Zealand’s third biggest island? a) Stewart Island c) South Island

Q 9. In which year did Sir Edmund Hillary climb Mount Everest? a) 1929 b) 1964 c) 1931 d) 1953

b) North Island d) Chatham Island

SUDOKU PUZZLE 9

3

1

4

7

4 9

7

2

6

9

5 9

8

5

KIWI-ISM “HALF-PIE”

4 9 5

2

6 6

8 66

9

6

5

1

8 6

b) Torres d) Bass

TNTDOWNUNDER.COM

5

3

This is an easy one – the Kiwis did not come up with the genius idea of jumping off bridges tied to little more than a bit of elastic.

The ‘sport’ originated in the South Pacific island of Vanuatu, where young men tested their courage by jumping off platforms with vines tied around their ankles. The wider world first learnt about it thanks to a 1950s David Attenborough film.

It was then the English who first turned suicidal cravings into sport, completing the first modern jump in 1979, off Bristol’s Clifton Suspension Bridge... they were swiftly arrested.

ANAGRAM-ARAMA

ANSWERS: 1. b 2. d 3. c 4. a 5. a 6. c 7. a 8. c 9. d

a) One c) Five

What is the name of the strait Q 6.between the North and South Islands?

OF THE MONTH

An insult meaning imperfect or not quite all there. Possibly derived from the Maori word “pai” which means “good” i.e. half-good. “That idea is half-pie” or “You are a little bit half-pie bro”.

THIS TIME IT’S...

NEW ZEALAND SNACKS 1. DEAR APEMAN LOON 2. PANEL UP PIMPLES 3. EH! UP FRS 4. YARN ‘N’ PEAK ANSWERS: 1. Lemon and Paeroa 2. Pineapple Lumps 3. Fresh Up 4. Perkynana

many stars are on Q 1.theHow New Zealand flag?

Is it true the Kiwis invented bungy jumping?

NEED A RIDE?

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DRIVENOW NZ88 indd 1

8/02/12 10:45 AM

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