Local spots

THE PROVINCE OF JÄMTLAND

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PH O T O MAT I AS BY G DE ST ÅH L

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THE PROVINCE OF JÄMTLAND

LOCAL SPOTS

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LET US TAKE YOU ON THE GRAND TOUR THROUGH THE PROVINCE OF JÄMTLAND. A SPARSELY POPULATED PLACE WITH EXTENSIVE WILDERNESS, OR? WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH ALL THE BRATS HANGING HERE THEN, AND WHO DECIDED TO PLACE A SKI SLOPE ON MY MOUNTAIN? ››

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PH O T O H AN S W ÄRDE L L

THE PROVINCE OF JÄMTLAND

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THE PROVINCE OF JÄMTLAND

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›› Completely unaccustomed to snow and winter road conditions, the

snow usually collects after a storm. We got an entire day of riding in perfect

hundreds of stubborn tourists in front of us don’t drive faster than 70 km/h

weather and untouched snowdrifts. Everyone was satisfied except Mikael,

(45 mph). Honking, we criss-cross between their weighed down minivans

who sullenly stated that his rebuilt Viper was not up to standard. During a

on our way to Scandinavia’s winter sports city, Åre. Located in the middle

short rest on a mountaintop with cell phone coverage, we called around

of Jämtland County, this little neon lit village offers a sharp contrast to other

to every snowmobile shop with a 200 km radius. After a little searching

forest covered parts of Jämtland. I sink into the driver’s seat and give the

we found a REV 440, the purchase was done over the telephone and we

finger to yet another tire chain clad SUV that blocks our way. My brother

decided to go pick it up on the way home. The afternoon passed quickly

Mikael and I left on a Friday morning to seek out some fresh powder up in

and when darkness began to set in, we loaded the sleds and started the

the mountains with some friends who live in Åre.

journey to the next target. The original plan was to track up all the available

adjustments in our travel plan, we discussed preparations to pick up the

mountains. Except for being overrun by tourists, police and prohibited

new sled. As we loaded in the twilight, the whole village vibrated from the

areas, Åre is an excellent free-riding area. You will find long valleys with

throbbing of the after-ski cocktail hour and pre-party festivities. It felt strange

deep powder, steep ravines and high cliffs. Since it had snowed and blown

to leave there on a Friday night, but the urge to shred more powder was

during the night, we decided to start on the backside of Renfjället, where

stronger. We left the brats and their platinum cards in Åre and tried not to ››

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PHOTO H ENR IK JÖNS SON

Jormvattnet in northern Jämtland, about a four-hour drive. With some minor

unloading the sleds, we found our way from the parking lot up to the

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We met up with Frank Huss and Dan Lang down in the village. After

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snow in Åre on Friday and then continue late at night to the village of

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PHOTO HANS WÄRDELL

THE PROVINCE OF JÄMTLAND

›› look back when the disco-blinking mountain disappeared in the rear view

all of Jämtland. The vicinity of the Norwegian mountains on the other side

mirror. We continued north and completed the world’s fastest snowmobile

of the border makes the mountain impressive by Scandinavian standards.

transaction at a roadside dealership. History from the morning road rage

Though snow is always guaranteed, we have been fortunate enough to

almost repeated itself when we were forced to drive slalom between moose,

receive an unusually high amount of the white stuff this year.

reindeer and other stupid animals that stubbornly remained between the two-meter high snow walls on the sides of the road. Mikael swore loudly

When we woke up the next day the sun was shining from the clear blue

each time he was forced to abruptly brake for a confused reindeer herd,

sky. The riding was fantastic and we didn’t even break any sleds!

standing paralysed in the middle of the road and staring at our headlights.

Back at Jormvattnets ice fishing camp, we cook our dinner over an open fire

We arrived late at night to a small village located in a valley between some

with a Murikka (a Finnish frying pan used to cook on open fire). With a cold

mountains close to the Norwegian border. The street lamps had already

beer and garlic bread, it’s the best meal I have ever eaten. Afterwards, when

been turned off for the night and the only thing to be heard was the silent

we sat in the metal hot tub watching the sunset, we looked out over the lake

rumble of the northern lights high above us. We stayed for a beer with

and the silhouette of Jormliklumpen Mountain. I opened a fresh beer and

Anders Jonsson at his farm. After a while, Stefan Hansson showed up and

gave a grateful thought to Heineken. ııı

we discussed the somewhat substandard nightlife here in the mountains.

Despite the mentioned lack of nightlife, Jormvattnet has the best riding in

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TEXT TOMAS BERNTSSON