& 1000 ISLAND INCLUDES GANANOQUE, BROCKVILL
INGSTO
pir ate islands OF THE 1000
Bill Johnston, Canada’s most audacious outlaw.
from the to the
Helicopter ice fishing; getting there is half the fun.
plus
2
Haunted pub walks, Kingston’s hearty fare, and Prince Edward county wine.
FIND ANYTHING, ANYWHERE! DOWNLOAD THE FREE SAVE-A-BUCK APP TODAY! IN ROOM COPY $24.95
I
FREE DIGITAL COPY AVAILABLE AT READTODAYMAG.COM
See page 47 for an expanded guide to Kingston Art Galleries.
WELCOME TO KINGSTON Welcome to Kingston, known as the Limestone City, home to the 1000 Islands, and Canada’s first capital! Thank you for selecting Kingston as your travel destination. During your stay I hope you find the opportunity to explore all that our historic City has to offer. You will discover Kingston is home to the region’s best cultural attractions: museums, galleries and historic sites, including Fort Henry, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With one of the highest numbers of restaurants and pubs per capita, I know you will enjoy your stay in our community! This year we are especially pleased to have you with us as we commemorate a Father of Confederation, Canada’s first Prime Minister and our most famous Kingstonian, Sir John A. Macdonald. 2015 marks the bicentenary of his birth and our community has planned
a number of projects, programs and events throughout the year to mark the occasion, to learn more please visit canadacomeshome.ca I look forward to welcoming you back soon for one of our great festivals, such as the Limestone City Blues Fest, the Buskers Rendezvous, FebFest, Kingston WritersFest, First Capital Day, or the Sheep Dog Trials. Enjoy your stay in Kingston! Sincerely,
Sincerely,
Bryan Paterson, Mayor
DISCOVER ROTARY Your neighbors, community leaders, and global citizens uniting for the common good; creating positive change in our communities and around the world.
Photo by Alyce Henson © Rotary International
Cataraqui-Kingston
Kingston-Frontenac
Gananoque
Tuesday, 7:00 AM Renaissance Event Venue 285 Queen Street
Wednesday, 6:15 PM Aunt Lucy’s Dinner House 1399 Princess Street
Tuesday, 12:15 PM Gananoque Curling Club 300 William St S, Gananoque
www.ckrotary.org
www.kfrotary.org
www.gananoquerotaryclub.com
Kingston
Kingston Waterfront
Napanee
Thursday, 12:15 PM Minos Village Restaurant 2762 Princess Street
Monday, 5:00 PM RCHA Club 193 Ontario St., 3rd floor
Tuesday, 12:00 PM Lions Hall 57 Centre St S, Napanee
www.kingstonrotary.ca
www.kwrotaryclub.org
Facebook: RotaryClubNapanee
YOU’RE INVITED: Kingston area Rotary clubs welcome you to our meetings.
1000 ofThe View Welcome To The Points Heart Of 1000 Islands
Gananoque and thea1000 Islands is a stay boater’s a fisherman’s playground, hiker’s haven, and a Come and enjoy great day or forparadise, the weekend in the heart of athe 1000 Islands. cyclist’s waterfront adventure. It’s easy to see why it’s regarded one offamily the mosthere beautiful places on Winter offers a huge selection of cool activities for theaswhole in the world’s best back yard. Go ice fishing – of bylush helicopter if rock youand like. Try winter camping, earth. Amid the spectacular scenery woodlands, cobalt-blue water, the 1,864skating, islands ATV over our truly many trails, in one of excellent restaurants. that ride make an up the 1000 Islands lives up todine its reputation as our a world-class waterfront destination.
World-Class A AWorld Class
Waterfront Waterfront
Destination
Destination
Gateway to Adventure
“
The 1000 Islands boat tour was fantastic, a definite ‘must do’ on your list. Bring your sun hat, sunscreen and your camera. We packed our lunch and enjoyed a picnic on the grounds of Boldt Castle...where there are a number of tables. It was a beautiful way to spend the day.”
Amidst Gananoque’s small-town, friendly atmosphere, enjoy the many wonderful things to do in and around the area.
GANANOQUE BOAT LINE CRUISE
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SMUGGLER’S GLEN GOLF
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pines, & interesting scenic elevated tee-offs.
won’t want to miss. fly1000islands.ca
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Tickets on Tickets on sale our sale at our Welcome Welcome Centre Centre
Welcome WelcomeCentre Centre
o pen in 2014, the Gananoque Welcome Centre is conveniently located open in 2014, the Gananoque Welcome Centre is conveniently located in Gananoque and offers visitors a go-to center for tourism information in Gananoque and offers visitors a go-to center for tourism information and to purchase attraction tickets. o ur knowledgeable and welland to purchase attraction tickets. our knowledgeable and well-
acquainted can1000 offerIslands first-hand advice onone. making your visitor Gananoque staff and the a memorable A number of localto Gananoque and the 1000 Islands a memorable one. A number of local and regional attraction tickets can be purchased directly at this facility. and regional attraction tickets can be purchased directly at this facility. 787 King St. East, Gananoque | 613.381.8427
Immerse in Activities Immerse in Activities As the official Gateway to the 1000 Islands, make your stay worthwhile, fun and fulfilling. Bo At In G – Area marinas include Peck’s Marina, Clark’s Marina & BoAtInG – Area marinas include Brennan Marina Peck’s Marina, Clark’s Marina & Brennan Marina CAs Ino – o LG Casino t housand Islands olgslotsandcasinos.ca/olg/ /olgCAsIno – oLG Casino thousand casinos/thousand-islands/ / /thousand-islands/ Islands CyCLIn G – 1000 Islands Parkway t rail waterfronttrail.org CyCLInG – 1000 Islands Ex PLor E – r ideau Heritage Parkway trail r oute rideauheritageroute.ca ExPLorE – rideau Heritage FIs HIn G – Charter, leisure & route FIsHInG – Charter, leisure & HIKING – Frontenac Arch fishing tournaments available Biosphere fabexperiences.ca HIKING – Frontenac Arch KAyAKIn G – 1000 Islands Biosphere Kayaking 1000islandskayaking.com KAyAKInG – 1000 Islands MIn I Go LF – Putt n ’ Play Kayaking MInI GoLF – Putt n’ Play
Mus Eu M t ours – Arthur Child Heritage Museum MusEuM tours – Arthur 1000islandsheritagemuseum.com Child Heritage Museum sCu BA DIv In G – Thousand Island Pleasure Diving sCuBA DIvInG – Thousand islanddiver.ca r r.ca Island Pleasure Diving sH o PPIn G – Downtown Gananoque sHoPPInG – Downtown gananoquedowntown.com Gananoque sK y DIv In G – skydiving Gananoque skydivegan.com sKyDIvInG – skydiving sPA s – Located at Gananoque Gananoque Inn, Colonial r esort & spa and the Glen Houseatr Gananoque esort sPAs – Located Inn, Colonial resort & spa and the Glen House resort
Discover more at 1000islandstourism.com
Discover more at 1000islandstourism.com
Recreation Centre & Outdoor Facilities
Mini Putt Golf Course
Curling Rink
Bicycle Rental
Cycling Trail
Hiking / Walking Trail
Splash Pad
Boat & Kayak Launch
Marina & Dockage / Rental
Kayak Rental
Beach / Swimming Area
Bank
Gas Station
Liquor Store
Drug Store
Grocery Store
Parking
Police / OPP
Museum
Town Hall
Tourist Information Centre
Border Control Station
Freeway Exit Number
Frontenac Arch Biosphere
Town Park
Shopping & Dining Areas
Historical Downtown Gan.
Town of Gananoque
Secondary Town Street
Primary Town Street
Secondary Highway
Parkway
Freeway
LEGEND
GL & EN GO SMU HOU LF GG SE CO LE RE UR RS SO SE GLE RT -1 N 0k m
Every reasonable effort has been made to ensure that the information displayed on this map is current and accurate. However, no responsibility can be accepted for damages or mishaps arising from errors, omissions or changes which may occur. © 2015, 1000 Islands Tourism. Map created by 1dea Design + Media Inc. 1dea.ca
Travelodge Toll Free: 1-866-466-6773 travelodge1000islands.com
The Gananoque Inn & Spa Toll Free: 1-888-565-3101 gananoqueinn.com
Ramada Provincial Inn Toll Free: 1-877-837-7768 ramadaprovincialinn.ca
Quality Inn & Suites Toll Free: 1-866-466-7912 qualityinn1000islands.com
Holiday Inn Express & Suites Toll Free: 1-866-301-2650 holidayinnexpress1000islands.com
The Glen House Resort Toll Free: 1-800-268-GLEN (4536) glenhouseresort.com smugglersglen.com
Comfort Inn & Suites Toll Free: 1-800-265-7474 comfortinn1000islands.com
Colonial Resort & Spa Toll Free: 1-800-267-9497 colonialresort.com
1000 Islands Helicopter Tours Toll Free: 1-855-855-4354 (HELI) 1000islandshelicoptertours.com
Thousands Islands Playhouse Box Office Tel: 613-382-7020 1000islandsplayhouse.com
Gananoque Boat Line Toll Free: 1-888-717-4837 ganboatline.com
IN N GROU QUE SKYDIV TE O OU GANAN HERITAGE R M U RIDEA FALLS) - 30 K S (JONE
km ION - 3 ALL - 8 KM B IL STAT VIA RA D ZERO PAINT G - 12 KM
W
elcome to Gananoque, Gateway to the Thousand Islands. I always like to refer to it as a little piece of paradise on the shores of the mighty St. Lawrence River.
I
There are so many exciting things to do. If you just want to relax and see the islands then get aboard the Gananoque Boat Line and go cruising.
The Township is an international playground of unrivalled natural beauty that promises relaxation, beautiful river and lake scenery, fishing, great dining, superb parks and trails, affordable accommodations, and some of the best golf courses in the region. Our historic villages of Lansdowne, Lyndhurst, Rockport and Seeley’s Bay offer the perfect blend of small town living, galleries and studios, quaint boutiques, and annual events such as Lansdowne Fair, Lyndhurst Turkey Fair, Seeley’s Bay Frost Fest, and Rockport Prohibition Days.
The play is on the stage and sometimes in either the Town Park or at Joel Stone Heritage Park by the river. We have professional entertainment provided by the Thousand Islands Playhouse and Dreams in Motion. Take a picnic and while walking the trails, stop at one of the picnic tables along the Gananoque River. You can also enjoy shopping, fine dining, cycling, scuba diving, fishing, a game of golf or just relax at the beach and watch the boats go by.
t is with great pleasure that members of Council and I welcome you to the Township of Leeds and the Thousand Islands (TLTI).
TLTI is an exciting destination any time of year. Come join us and find out what keeps people returning year after year. Warmest Wishes,
In winter you can enjoy cross country skiing, skating or weather permitting, ice fishing. Any time of year, if a game of chance is your idea of fun, you can visit OLG Casino Thousand Islands. No matter what time of year, you will always find something to do in Gananoque. Come and enjoy the friendly people.
Joe Baptista, Mayor Township of Leeds and the Thousand Islands
Erika Demchuk Mayor of the Town of Gananoque
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 5
Come and enjoy a great day or stay for the weekend in the heart of the 1000 Islands. Browse, shop, relax, and taste the delicious food in our restaurants. Discover the sites, legends, and history that Gananoque has to offer. The collaboration between the Gananoque Lions Club and the Rotary Club of Gananoque is crucial to this vibrant event-filled community.
Rotary Club of Gananoque The Rotary Club of Gananoque is involved in International and local events with the motto of “Service above Self” as their guiding principal in every aspect of their work. The Rotary Club of Gananoque was chartered in 1931 and they have been active in our community every since. Some of their local projects include support for Minor Hockey, High School Scholarships, Teen Dances, Gananoque Canoe Club, Confederation Park and the Sculpture Park, 1000 Islands Playhouse, Rotary Beach and swimming programs, Joel Stone Park, Splash Pad, and a long, long list of worthy projects. International projects include Polio Plus, a joint venture with the World Health Organization, the Gates Foundation and most world Governments to eradicate Polio. Started by Rotary in 1985, this project has spent over $500 million and is inching toward success. Shelter Box provides a large tent, cooking equipment, sleeping bags and basic survival tools for a family of 10 people who have lost
everything in a hurricane, flood, earthquake or other disaster. Youth Exchange of over 8000 students annually study for a year at the Grade 12 level in another country, culture, language, and family. The objective is to promote world peace and understanding among high school students. World Community Service (WCS) involves a whole range of service projects in which two Rotary Clubs in different parts of the world work together to achieve a large or small project to help a disadvantaged community. It may include a new school, water supply, library, or almost anything to help people. The Rotary Foundation: Is a not-for profit fund created by Rotarians and their friends for the advancement of world understanding, peace, health, education and the alleviation of poverty. Current community projects include Adventures in Citizenship, Adventures in the Environment and Adventures in High Tech and a fabulous partnership with the Lions Club of Gananoque in producing the largest outdoor summer festival in Gananoque every summer.
Gananoque Lions Club The Gananoque Lions Club has operated for 76 years by a simple and succinct motto: We Serve. The Gananoque Lions are a group of 53 dedicated and very active individuals. They work on many major projects over the years including community, provincial, national and international. They also participate in community events such as Canada Day Celebrations, Huck Finn Derby, Remembrance Day, Pump-gan-fest and The Santa Claus Parade. “Lionism is an active and efficient vehicle for united civic effort and enterprise and is a helpmate to every community endeavor.” The Gananoque Lions Club’s Charter was May 2nd, 1939 with 25 members. Throughout 76 years of operation the Lions Club has enjoyed and appreciated the wholehearted support of the Gananoque Community. Over the years our club members have fluctuated, ranging from 30 to a high of 70 in 1956.
Social Commitment In 1939 there was a lack of medical, dental and eye care support from the governments and that is where a lot of our support was extended. Sight conservation and support for the blind was a Lion priority and still is. The recycling of eyeglasses is an ongoing project and over our 76 year history we have collected and sent thousands of eyeglasses to developing nations. Today, support for the blind includes the provision of guide dogs through annual donations to Leader Dog and Canine Vision Canada. Beyond Our Community The Gananoque Lions Club has reached beyond this community, and in addition to having several members hold district offices of zone chairman, deputy district governor, and governor, we have been successful in sponsoring three thriving Lions Clubs in neighboring communities. The Smiths Falls Lions Club began in 1940, the Westport Lions Club was started in 1946 and the 1000 Islands Lions Club was chartered in 1974.
Rotary Club of Gananoque
Gananoque Lions Club
P.O. Box 516,
Lion Paul Scott, Secretary
Gananoque, ON K7G 2V1
660 Queen Street Gananoque, ON K7G 2B2
Contributors
ANGELA AIELLO Angela Aiello is the Founder of iYellow Wine Club home to over 10,000 members who build wine confidence through discovery through events, classes and tours. To learn more, join the wine club for free at iYellowWineClub.com or AngelaAiello.ca
LAUREN CHARLEY Lauren graduated from The University of Western Ontario with an honours BA.in Media Studies, where she also completed many creative and journalistic writing courses. She loves to travel, meet new people, and take too many pictures! Currently Lauren is learning to speak Mandarin. She lives for the summertime, vacations, and anything involving lots of sunshine!
ANDREW HIND Andrew is a freelance writer specializing in travel, history and lifestyle. He has a passion for new adventure and experiences, and also for exploring little known stories. Andrew is never without a book or three in hand and some obscure historical fact at the tip of his tongue. You should follow him @discoveriesAM
LYNN OGRYZLO Lynn is a food, wine and travel writer, author of three international award-winning cookbooks and regular contributor to REV Publications. Lynn specializes in culinary tourism covering regional cuisine destinations, slow food, culinary holidays, wine, spirits and “la dolca vita�. She can be reached for questions or comments at lynnogryzlo.com.
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 19
E
Experience all the 1000 Islands has to offer,
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HWY 401
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1.855.855.HELI (4354) 1000 Islands Helicopter Tours . com
notes from the
EDITOR W
elcome to the winter edition of Today Magazine: Kingston & 1000 Islands. My favourite thing to do when I visit a new city is to hit the ground running. Explore everything! Down alleyways, around corners, up stairs…if it looks intriguing, I’m investigating it. And Kingston is a great city for exploring. There’s always something new opening up, or somewhere old that I’ve only just heard of. If your idea of fun is the same as mine, check out some unique Kingston and 1000 Islands experiences (page 50 and page 52). Another of my favourite things to do when I’m travelling is to learn about the history of a place. I’m not talking boring fact and figures, but real anecdotes about the people who have lived, loved and died in a place. Check out the story on (page 44), for an exciting account of Bill Johnson, 1000 Islands own pirate. Winter is a pretty beautiful time of the year here, and sure, it’s cold, but don’t let that stop you from experiencing all that Kingston and the 1000 Islands have to offer. Enjoy your vacation, and have a great winter season!
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 21
ONTENT
PUBLISHER Rev Publishing Inc. PRESIDENT & CEO Daniel A. Pasco GENERAL MANAGER Candace LeBlanc ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Alexandra Mills BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER David Mace EDITOR Megan Pasche CREATIVE DIRECTOR Tina Lanzillotta GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Tabitha MacDonald, Rachel Bertrand, Christina Picton, Jenn Blais IT/WEB DEVELOPER Justin Soungie MARKETING AND SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Kaila Henderson CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Andrew Hind, Lynn Ogryzlo, Lauren Charley, Angela Aiello TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL 905.356.7283 or 1.877.888.2825 WEBSITE todaymagazine.ca
facebook.com/RevPublishingInc @revpublishing www.revpublishing.com Kingston & 1000 Islands by Today Magazine is published by Rev Publishing Inc. All opinions expressed in Kingston & 1000 Islands by Today Magazine are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the view of Kingston & 1000 Islands by Today Magazine, it’s employees or owners. Reasonable care is taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is as up-to-date and accurate as possible, as of the time of publication, but no responsibility can be taken by Kingston & 1000 Islands by Today Magazine for any errors, omissions or comments made by writers or interviewees that are contained herein. Furthermore, responsibility for any losses, damages or distress resulting from adherence to any information made available through this magazine is not the responsibility of Kingston & 1000 Islands by Today Magazine. All unsolicited manuscripts and/or photographs submitted are assumed to be intended for publication or republication in whole or in part. The right to alter, edit or refuse photos and/or manuscripts intended for publication is assumed. All unsolicited material submitted to Kingston & 1000 Islands by Today Magazine are submitted at the author’s risk. Manuscripts and or photographs intended to be returned must be accompanied by sufficient postage. by Kingston & 1000 Islands by Today Magazine does not assume any responsibility for any claims of our advertisers and reserves the right to refuse any advertising.
ON THIS PAGE: PHOTO BY DWAYNE BROWN, DWAYNEBROWN.COM
FOOD & DRINK 26
HEARTY WINTER FARE
31
FOR THE LOVE OF CHEESE
37
THE MESSY BAKER
42
PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY
You don’t have to stay home to enjoy a home-cooked meal with these comfort food-centric restaurants. The city is a cheese lover’s paradise, with many fine cheesemakers located just a hop, skip and a jump away. Lynn Ogryzlo spends an afternoon in the kitchen with Charmian Christie. This beautiful and relatively new vineyard area is taking the world by storm.
LIFESTYLE & CULTURE 44
FROM PIRATE TO LEGEND
46
ART GALLERIES
In the early 19th century, the maze of the 1000 Islands was the haunt of Canada’s most notorious pirate & brigand, Bill Johnston. With 12 art galleries—and even more artist studios— Kingston definitely punches above its paint class. This mini guide will help you to wade through all of that paint, glass, pottery, multimedia and more.
ABOUT TOWN 50
CREEPY KINGSTON
52
FROM SKY TO LAKE
54
LAYING TRACKS
57
ESCAPE ROOM PHENOMENON
For a small city, Kingston has more than their share of restless spirits. These winter pub walks take you through Kingston’s dark past and haunted heritage. The only excursion of it’s kind in Canada, Helicopter ice fishing has taken this sedentary sport to new heights. Outlining some of the city’s best cross country skiing. Improbable Escapes sees you locked in a room for 60 minutes while you try to escape with your friends.
Special Section 58 DESTINATION PROFILE
Things to see and do in Western New York
ON THE
COVER THE DRUMMER FROM THE JOE LOUIS WALKER BAND. Photography by Karen Dolan, karendolanart.com 1000islandsphotoart.com
For more on this talented artist see page 41.
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 23
FOOD & DRINK
WINTER FARE
KINGSTON’S HEARTY
B Y ANDR E W HIND
Our palate changes in the winter time. It’s a time when our appetites naturally lean towards hearty fare—home cooked comfort foods, if you will. After shovelling snow, taking a brisk walk in the chill, or enduring the slush-filled drive to work you’ve earned the right for a night out with a comforting winter dish. Kingston is blessed with a number of restaurants to which you can turn to nip that cold-weather craving. Here are four of the best, each one of which elevates hearty food to delicious new heights. >>
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 27
THE GRIZZLY GRILL
Enjoy a truly unique dining experience at the Grizzly Grill, a restaurant located just a short walk from the waterfront that brings fine-dining flair to Kingston. The Grizzly Grill does things right. General Manager Andrew Scohill says the restaurant is at the forefront of the movement to source food locally within the Kingston region. Everything is made from scratch, nothing is frozen, and everything comes from regional farmers. “We’re locally owned and operated, and so we’re very proud of the fact we made an ideological shift 18-months ago that saw us shift from big box suppliers to local suppliers. Supporting local suppliers is important to us, and more importantly you taste the difference in our food,” Scohill explains. The incorporation of local ingredients inspires the menu, which includes dynamic flavours to satisfy any taste bud. “Our menu is upscale casual,” explains Scohill, “and we specialize in perfectly grilled steaks and meats— from the classic strip loin to our Enright Cattle Co. rib eye steak to our slow roasted prime rib. You won’t get better steak anywhere in town.” Complimenting meats are a fine seafood selection that includes P.E.I. mussels, pan-fried calamari and grilled Pacific salmon, as well as excellent burgers, and braised short-rib poutine. A wood fired oven provides that smoky flavour that puts pizzas made with homemade dough (“our pizzas are a surefire way to get a great meal,” Scohill enthuses), calzones and flatbreads over the top. You taste freshness in every bite of a wide selection of market-style salads, made with seasonal greens picked locally every day. Grizzly Grill is unique in having two diverse dining settings to choose from. The downstairs dining room is open concept, allowing guests to watch chefs prepare dishes,
while the spacious main dining room upstairs offers the intimacy of ceiling-high fireplace and fantastic window views. In both cases, the settings are warm and relaxed. With stomachs pleasantly full, consider extending the memorable evening in the upper level billiard loft. Grizzly Grill has all the makings of a great evening out. Take in the views as the evening sun begins to reflect on Lake Ontario’s surface, then make the short walk to Grizzly Grill to share some savoury appetizers, delight in a flavourful main, and indulge in a sinfully good dessert. Grizzly Grill has something for everyone. It’s a restaurant on a roll.
LOCATION: 395 PRINCESS STREET P H O N E : 6 1 3 -5 4 4 - 7 5 6 6 WEB: T HEGRIZ ZLYGRIL L .CA
THE MERCHANT TAP HOUSE
The Merchant Tap House’s Head Chef Jess Burns knows how to wow the taste buds. “I have twenty years in the business with a background in fine dining, and while we don’t do fine dining at The Merchant, I bring an element of that to the food we prepare. It’s not standard food, that’s for sure. I call it pub-centric comfort food. It’s a step above what you find in most pubs,” she says passionately. It’s a recipe—if you’ll pardon the pun— that has helped dispel the commonly held notion that The Merchant Tap House is just a bar, if admittedly a great one. There’s beer and spirits to be sure, and a great selection at that (over 25 varieties of draught beer on tap!), but there’s also innovative and flavourful meals to be had. A signature dish is the braised beef short ribs in a root beer reduction with grilled fennels, which Burns describes as having a “bit of a licorice overtone that’s unique and very tasty.” New to the menu, it’s already received rave reviews and is among the best selling items.
Another oh-so delicious menu option is the Napa Chicken. A prosciutto, goat cheese and roasted-pear stuffed chicken breast served on a bed of white wine creamy pasta with grilled zucchini, this dish tastes even better than it looks, which is saying something. It wouldn’t be a pub without wings, and The Merchant has some of the best in town, thick and juicy with lip-smacking-good homemade sauces. A good meal doesn’t end until you’ve polished off a dessert so delicious you can’t even force yourself to regret the calories gained. Burns can’t contain her excitement when it comes to her peanut butter and chocolate ganache perogies, served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. A creation that came from her own imagination, it’s unforgettable—you won’t want to share with a partner, so be sure to order two. Located on downtown Kingston’s waterfront, the Merchant Tap House is set in a historic building dating back to 1836. Within this atmospheric building, Owners Dave McNamare and former NHL player Dave Scatchard have created a bar with an ambience all its own. “It’s not an English pub-feel. For me, it’s got a warm, cottagey atmosphere. You enter and you feel at home,” explains Burns. Live music is featured every Thursdaythrough Saturday, and be sure to return again in the summer to take in a meal on the huge 150 person-capacity patio overlooking the lake. Amidst a scenic backdrop of Lake Ontario’s crystalline waters and set within one of Kingston’s most historic buildings, a surprisingly flavourful meal awaits at the Merchant Tap House. Chef Jess Burn’s focus on quality produce and innovative recipes highlighting unique flavours complements a pub with a beer selection that’s second to none, making for a memorable dining experience.
LOCATION: 6 PRINCESS STREET P H O N E : 6 1 3 -5 4 7- 1 3 1 3 WEB: MERCHANTTAPHOUSE.COM
THE COPPER PENNY
The Copper Penny, tucked into a heritage building in downtown Kingston just minutes from the waterfront, goes intimate in every way. The atmosphere is polished yet relaxed, the décor is classical and rustic, and the food is a welcome mix of contemporary flavours and traditional American cuisine. Hospitable servers arrive at the table with broad smiles. Soon enough you feel like a guest in someone’s home rather than merely a patron in a restaurant. The Copper Penny does casual family dining right. And it should. From the very start the restaurant was about family. Founded in 1981 by Gerry Mazzeo and his brothers, some thirtyfive years later it’s now operated by Jerry and his wife, Annette. The long-serving servers, more like siblings then co-workers, are warm and welcoming, making every patron feel valued. “We treat every guest like family—we’re all very aware that dollars are hard to come by today and that there are many other restaurants in Kingston, so we appreciate that customers choose the Copper Penny. That’s why our restaurant is so warm,” explains Annette Mazzeo. Certainly the flawlessly prepared comfort food helps in that regard as well. “Our French fries are almost legendary. We’re become known for our fries, so much so we’ve even won an award for them,” enthuses Annette. Fresh, crispy yet soft, full of rich flavours, each steaming mouthful is a delight. Sandwiches like the Penny Club—tower of roasted beef, turkey, bacon, lettuce and tomato served three stories high—are popular at the Iron Duke. Gerry Mazzeo’s SicilianNapolitan heritage shines in the chicken dijon penne, which features grilled strips of chicken breast, sautéed mushrooms and onions with sun-dried tomatoes tossed in a Dijon cream sauce with penne then baked in the oven. Perhaps the star of the menu is the
burger. “Every thick 6oz prime rib burger has a mouth-watering flavour and unbelievable tenderness that all but guarantees it’s going to be the best-tasting burger you’ve ever had. No fillers, no preservatives, just great taste,” says Mazzeo with obvious passion. “It’s served on a delicious sesame seed bun with melted cheddar and two strips of smoked bacon.” While nothing beats the experience of dining in the warm confines of the Copper Penny itself, for those on the go there’s uptown Copper Penny Grill’ n Home, which has all of the same Copper Penny favourites but specializes in take-out and delivery orders but also has seating for those who wish to enjoy their meal on location. Great food, paired with a warm setting and friendly service—the foundations of a truly great family restaurant are all there. Therein lays the secret to the Copper Penny’s longevity and continued appeal.
LOCATION: 240 PRINCESS STREET P H O N E : 6 1 3 -5 4 9 - 4 2 5 7 W E B : T H E C O P P E R P E N N Y. C A
THE IRON DUKE ON WELLINGTON
The name plays on the famous British general of the Napoleonic Wars, Arthur Wellesly, who was given the honorific Duke of Wellington for his victories over the French and who was often referred to as the Iron Duke. With a name honouring a historic figure, it’s only fitting that the pub is located in the heart of historic downtown Kingston. “Our menu is elevated pub food, good comfort food, which is ideal for a relaxed pub. We make everything from scratch for good home-cooking taste,” says Amanda Gould, who has been with the Duke since it opened in 2008. “We want The Iron Duke to be known as much for its food as its beer.” Indeed, The Iron Duke is labeled as ‘the
food lover’s pub’, and with good reason. While the pub boasts a beer list the envy of any bar in town—a mix of domestic, import and Ontario craft brews—it pairs good beer with flavourful food. A pint is even better when accompanied by a delicious meal, after all. A highlight of the menu is the liver and onion. “It’s simple but people love it. We use a thick cut of liver, more like a steak, and serve it with perfectly fried onions and red wine jus. If you like liver, you’ll love it,” says Gould. Other popular items include a juicy burger served with home fries and a cheesesteak sandwich which has been so loved by patrons it’s been on the menu since opening day. “Our cooks get really excited about our daily lunch and dinner specials. It’s where we get to be a bit creative and really put our best foot forward,” Gould enthuses. While the talents of Chef Gould and her staff are largely responsible for patrons leaving pleasantly full and the end of the evening and eagerly anticipating a return, some of the credit goes to her focus on using on the freshest of local ingredients. The Duke is a proud supporter of local farms, brewers, butchers and bakeries—the quality and freshness is seen and tasted in every dish. Serving locally sourced food is good for the customers, but it’s also in keeping with the pub’s commitment to green initiatives, a commitment that saw The Duke on Wellington awarded the Downtown Kingston Business Improvement Area Environmental Sustainability Award 2013. With delicious food, an enticing list of unique beers, and a friendly, welcoming environment, The Iron Duke on Wellington is the perfect venue for lunch, dinner or to simply unwind with a pint and a snack after work.
LOCATION: 207 WELLINGTON STREET P H O N E : 6 1 3 -5 4 2 - 4 2 4 4 WEB: IRONDUKE.CA TM
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BY: ROSALYN GAMBHIR
FOR THE LOVE OF
The city of Kingston is a cheese lover’s paradise, with many fine cheesemakers located just a hop, skip and a jump away. Take a short walk downtown or drive down the 401 to discover some of Canada’s best artisan cheeses in an array of shapes, sizes, smells and colours from coast to coast to coast. When buying cheese, it’s best to find a reliable source like a specialty market or gourmet food store to ensure that the products are in the best condition. Each wheel of cheese should have a moist rind while every wedge of the cheese should display consistent full flavours throughout from batch to batch. A general but important rule of thumb is to ensure that the interior of the cheese is bright and shiny, never dull or faded. Knowledgeable staff i.e. cheesemongers are key, and within the City of Kingston, you are sure to find what you are looking for. As cheese lovers, we celebrate the passion and dedication of cheesemakers throughout the country – let’s cheese out! >> TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 31
SPECIALITY STORES COOKE’S FINE FOODS & COFFEE A true historic staple in downtown Kingston, Cooke’s is a specialty food store with imports mainly from the UK. It is a blast from the past with old wooden counters and the original pressed-metal ceiling still intact. Aromas of fine food fill the air, though when it comes to cheese – a counter is tucked away to the back left corner with hidden gems waiting to be tasted. How about Guinness Cheddar? 61 Brock Street, Kingston, Ontario in Downtown Kingston 395 Princess Street, Unit 6, Kingston, Ontario
PAN CHANCHO BAKERY AND CAFÉ Pan Chancho is a go-to spot in Kingston for brunch, this retail store with gourmet food to-go also has a fine selection of cheeses that are sourced both locally and nationally from across Canada. Pairing with a loaf of artisan bread made fresh daily (I recommend the olive and rosemary baguette or French batard) will surely satisfy your cheese indulgences.
conversation – so why not mingle over a charcuterie board? Tango Nuevo’s offerings include a selection of cured meats, and local/ international artisan cheeses along with seasonal fruits, pickled vegetables, olives, cranberry relish and fresh focaccia. 331 King St E, Kingston, Kingston
CHEZ PIGGY At Chez Piggy, eating locally means eating seasonally and this summer’s menu articulates this notion especially well with their offerings of cheeses paired with slices of apples, grapes and crostini from Pan Chancho. Available cheeses include Highland Blue of Back Forty Artisan Cheese and Pilgramish of Bushgarden Farmstead Cheese. 68 Princess St, Kingston, Ontario
44 Princess St, Kingston, Ontario
FARM BOY Known for creating a fun shopping experience, Farm Boy is a specialty grocery store located in the west end of Kingston. Their cheese counter boasts over 100 different quality cheeses, and includes a specialty Italian section, plus well-trained staff to answer any of your questions. 940 Futures Gate, Kingston, Ontario
LOVE CHARCUTERIE & ARTISANAL CHEESES The best charcuterie in Kingston isn’t just plates of cold cuts and crackers, but rather a myriad of fruitful tastes, textures and aromas to compliment the cheeses offered. Luckily for Kingston locals and visitors alike, this translates to an astounding collection of restaurants to choose from for diners looking to get their cheese fix.
LE CHIEN NOIR BISTRO Inspired by classic French cuisine, Le Chien Noir is a proud proponent of using fresh, high quality local ingredients – sustaining the vision of farm-to-table comfort food. A wide range of different cheeses and meats are offered each week from across Canada – recently, the 2014 Canadian cheese of the year, ‘Le Baluchon’ of Quebec was featured. 69 Brock St, Kingston, Ontario
OLIVEA Olivea is a modern Italian eatery located right across from Market Square offers meat and cheese boards accompanied by marinated olives, Italian condimenti and Ontario artisan cheeses – Lankaaster aged gouda (cow), Lindsay Bandaged Cheddar (goat), Celtic Blue (cow) and Mountain Shepard (sheep). 39 Brock St, Kingston, Ontario
TANGO NEUVO TAPAS & WINE Tango Neuvo embraces the Spanish tradition of sharing small plates of food, bringing people together, and of course, encouraging
UNIQUE PAIRINGS OF CHEESE MLT DWN It’s “more than just cheese and bread” at MLT DWN, where comfort food has been taken to a whole new level with gourmet-grilled cheeses. Unique flavour combinations like their famous Mac N Cheese Grilled Cheese have been wildly popular. Their unique Lobster MLT summer feature sounds just as tempting – Wild Caught New Brunswick Lobster seasoned with MLT DWN’s own special blend of spices and paired with both brie and aged cheddar on thick cut Texas toast. Mouth watering, right? 292 Princess St, Kingston, Ontario
LAST BUT NOT LEAST THE GREAT CANADIAN CHEESE FESTIVAL This festival is indeed an homage to fromage founded by “head cheese” Georgs Kolesnikovs. Held in Picton’s Crystal Palace – only an hour drive from Kingston, it features 125 different types of artisanal cheese from across Canada. The Great Canadian Cheese Festival brings together the country’s leading cheesemakers from coast-to-coast-to-coast, where cheese lovers can meet to learn, talk, taste and buy the best in artisan and farmstead cheese, as well as sample fine wine, craft beer and an assortment of artisanal foods. TM
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ome and visit Brockville, but be warned; once you discover the city’s charm and succumb to its hospitality, you will want to stay longer! Brockville & 1000 Islands Tourism is open year round to help you make your visit memorable. Situated at the eastern gateway to this famed tourism region, Brockville truly is the ‘City of the 1000 Islands’. Get up close to the islands on a traditional or high-speed adventure cruise or delve into the island’s stories a little deeper with a visit to the Aquatarium; Brockville’s new interactive discovery centre devoted to the history, culture and ecology of the region. Ogle ships from around the world plying the St. Lawrence Seaway channel from one of five waterfront parks or explore Brockville’s many historical treasures with a visit to the Brockville Museum, Fulford Place, Canada’s First Railway Tunnel, Fort Wellington or on a stroll through the historic downtown where you’ll discover an abundance of architectural treasures of this one-time Millionaire’s capital of Canada. As night falls, take in a show at the Brockville Arts Centre – one of Eastern Ontario’s premier stages or an outdoor performance at the St. Lawrence Shakespeare Festival.
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THE
MESSY
BAKER …is not so messy after all WRITTEN BY LYNN OGRYZLO | PHOTOS BY JON OGRYZLO
Mason jars filled with baking supplies line the shelves. She pulls one filled with white powder laced with long slivers of black and shakes vigorously, spins off the top and dives in with as much glee as a banker fanning through a stack of thousand dollar bills. “It’s my vanilla sugar, it just tastes better,” says Charmian Christie, author of my favourite baking book, The Messy Baker. Charmian lives in a beautiful, 100-year old farmhouse in Guelph. Her kitchen is filled with yellow-pine cupboards, flooded with soft light from the multi-paned windows and infused with a sense of peace from giant trees shading the
kitchen from glaring sunlight. It’s a kitchen that would inspire anyone to bake and here I am, invited to spend a day baking with the Messy Baker in her century-old, inspiring kitchen. If I were to write a cookbook about baking, I’d like to think I could write one as good as this. The recipes are simple enough to keep you relaxed in the kitchen with flavour combinations so creative they make your mouth water, seductive photographs that stir you into action and it’s crammed with so much of Charmian’s personality that it makes you feel like she’s with you baking in your kitchen. >>
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 37
Charmian pours some vanilla sugar over a twisted knot of dough; it’s her homemade pastry. She begins to roll it out. The chilled dough layered with cold, hard butter flattens easily beneath her rolling pin. It’s easy to see who’s in command. “I thought I’d make Palmiers,” she says as she feels the top of the sheet of pastry every so often, gauging the thickness like a medium studying her crystal ball. Like any other skill, “you have to practice to get good at it.” She’s making Vanilla-Scented Palmiers from her cookbook, the little ears of flaky, sweet pastry. She continues to sprinkle handfuls of vanilla sugar over the dough and roll. She shakes her foot as some of it falls to the floor. She laughs, talking about some of her baking disasters then shrugs her shoulders and says, “life is not perfect, baking is not perfect but they’re both pretty good.” When the pastry is ready, she pours more sugar over the top, running her hands over, ever so lightly to make sure it’s coated evenly. She flips the dough over and does it again until the raw dough is covered in coarse vanilla-scented sugar. Like any good baker, she’s anxious for the flavours that will materialize when the pastry and sugar bake together and she can’t wait, “I love the caramel flavour from all the baked sugar.” She trims the edges to carve a perfect rectangle shape on her large pastry board. “It’s my lucky pastry board, it was my aunt Hilda’s and now it’s mine.” She folds the pastry into a long log shape, wraps it in plastic wrap and spins around to put it in the refrigerator. It needs to chill again. The little trimmed bits go into a sandwich bag, “these are the bakers treats,” she says with glee. The Messy Baker cookbook is filled with both sweet and savoury baking, it’s for people who cook and would like to bake if only someone made it easy enough or fearless enough. “I tried to remove as many barriers to baking as possible.” Inside the book are recipes for Chili Cheese Twists and Blueberry-Lime Muffins, Smoky Mushroom Crepes and Boozy Chocolate Torte.
“It’s important to make food yourself, (that way) you control what’s in it.” She begins to clear away all the sugar and wipes down the board. Out of the refrigerator comes another knot of dough that she flattens with ease. She’s now making a leek and mushroom tart. “You can buy the puff pastry dough if you want, just make sure it’s an ‘all butter’ puff pastry. It cooks up with the best flavour,” she advises. Back to the board, Charmian is rolling the dough into another rectangular shape. She trims it to perfection, maneuvers the soft dough onto her rolling pin and maneuvers it to the centre of a parchment paper lined baking sheet. She scores the edge, about an inch all the way around. “This edge will puff up creating sides to the tart.” She pops it into the refrigerator to chill and she turns her attention to the stove. In a large skillet she melts a huge knob of butter and microplanes a garlic clove. The garlic pulp dissolves into the frothing butter and fills the air with the seductive aromas of butter and garlic. Now we’re getting hungry. As it bubbles away, in go the leeks and mushrooms and they cook until they’re both soft and firm. She seasons them with thyme, stirs one last time and tosses them into a large strainer that hovers inside an even larger bowl. She’s draining the mushrooms and leeks, “so they don’t turn the dough soggy.” “If you want to switch the vegetables up for others that you like better, go ahead,” Charmian talks while she wipes down the counters, “the toppings are up to your imagination, it’s the dough that you don’t want to mess with.”
“
LIFE IS NOT PERFECT, BAKING IS NOT PERFECT BUT THEY’RE BOTH pretty good.”
Established 1982
Family Estate
•Wine Sensory Garden • •Open 7 Days a Week • Charmian doesn’t remember when she first fell in love with baking, she thinks perhaps she was born with a wooden spoon in her mouth except for Charmian, the spoon was covered with cookie dough; “chocolate chip,” she declares. Some of her earliest memories were of her mom making cookies and giving her the wooden spoon to lick clean. Sadly her mom was such a good baker that the bowl was almost completely cleaned out by the time Charmian had finished the spoon and set her sights on the bowl. When she was old enough, Charmian would come home from school and bake up a batch of cookies almost every day. “I love chewy cookies, the kind that have a chewy bite. I think that’s why I love cookie dough so much,” she says, “food is memories and my fondest are of my mom and I in the kitchen baking.” The tart shell comes out of the refrigerator. She begins to top the dough with heaping spoonfuls of the mushroom and leek mixture, careful not to place any over the score line. “Think of it as colouring inside the lines,” she laughs, the edges will become the puffy sides to the tart. Lastly she grates a thick coating of Gruyere cheese over the tart before popping it back into the oven. Now comes the best part of baking: the eating. We dig into the tart and the warm cheese strings as a piece is pulled away. I sink my teeth into it and the rich savoury flavours of the earthy cheese, meaty mushrooms, sweet leeks and crisp buttery dough fill my olfactory senses with divine satisfaction. I sip on my warm mint tea and set my sights on the vanilla-scented palmiers. They’re little, the perfect size for a sweet treat. The caramelized sugar has cooled and it crunches beneath my teeth as the fine, layered pastry crumbles into buttery shards. As I chew I get that big caramelly, sweet taste that creams across my tongue and works so seductively well with the buttery, flaky dough. This is simple food, good food, food to live by. As I bask in the aromas and daylight that is Charmian’s kitchen, it appears pretty neat and tidy, certainly very clean for the amount of activity that just went on. For the messy baker I imagined a face covered in streaks of flour, open jars and canisters of baking ingredients littering every counter and smears of food from the various stages of cooking across every counter, stovetop and cupboard door. But rather than being a messy baker, Charmian is really giving everyone who has ever hesitated to bake, permission to ‘get messy in the kitchen’. TM
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WHERE DO YOU WANT TO EAT TONIGHT? Tough question for a city like Kingston. But the restaurants under the umbrella of Black Dog Hospitality Group – Le Chien Noir Bistro, Atomica Pizza & Wine Bar, Harper’s Burger Bar, Dianne’s Fish Shack & Smokehouse – make the decision easy. With an emphasis on local – local owners, sourcing local ingredients, a commitment to local organizations – these eateries show a dedication to craveable foods prepared from scratch. With 15 years of restaurant and catering experience, Black Dog has created a quartet of family-friendly Kingston restaurants each with its own décor, style and distinct menu. Together they share topshelf hospitality, with chef-driven menus that bend to capture the freshness of each season, showcasing the best from local producers of meats, veggies, craft beers and regional wines. Settle in to Le Chien Noir Bistro for gourmet French bistro-style recipes. The setting is reminiscent of a trip to Europe – exposed brick walls, pressed tin ceilings, Art Deco lighting and vintage French poster artwork. Le Chien’s kitchen follows a time-honoured process, taking care with the selection and preparation of ingredients for dishes like Steak Frites, Cassoulet or the Charcuterie & Artisan Cheese Board. When there’s a cool nip in the air, the main restaurant or the Zinc Bar are perfect spots to sip from wines by the glass or relax for a weekend brunch. Authenticity is on the menu at Atomica Pizza & Wine Bar. Upscale and modern, Atomica is styled after cafes tucked into the laneways of Italy. The restaurant’s success is in the details – handrolled, thin crust Neapolitan-style pizza, topped with authentic
Italian meats, cheeses and tomato sauce. Quality ingredients shine through on a menu rounded out with a ‘build your own’ antipasto board, fresh salads, pasta, entrées, Panini and house-made desserts. The chef shops the farmers’ market for cocktail ingredients: fresh blueberries muddled into the Blue Lavender Collins and organic produce in the Garden Caesar, the perfect drink companion during the weekend brunch service. Harper’s Burger Bar saves the day with those craving a gourmet burger fix. Striking a chord as a spin on the diner burger theme, Harper’s uses 100 per cent local beef sourced from a single, family farm. Patrons with an eye for health conscious choices can choose from turkey, salmon and veggie burgers, salads and gluten-free buns. The idea of supporting local family farms has always been at the heart of the Black Dog raison d’être. Good local food tastes better and provides vital support to the local farming community. Dianne’s Fish Shack & Smokehouse moves the freshness of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans to the tables of Kingston. It’s the local restaurant where East coast meets West coast, with a solid commitment to sustainable seafood choices. Ninety per cent of the seafood served meets the standards of the Ocean Wise conservation program for sustainability and ocean health. In a décor reminiscent of an authentic Down East seafood shack, Dianne’s menu stars seafood, but meat lovers can find in-house smoked meats and ‘Black Angus Reserve’ steak. Seafood specialities include lobster rolls, fish tacos, fish chowder and Pacific cod with crispy fries. The bar serves the city’s largest selection of tequila and bourbon as well as local wines-on-tap.
DIANNE’S FISH SHACK & SMOKEHOUSE
HARPER’S BURGER BAR
ATOMICA PIZZA & WINE BAR
LE CHIEN NOIR BISTRO
PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY BY ANGELA AIELLO
WHEN IT COMES TO DISCOVERING ONTARIO WINE COUNTRY everyone AROUND THE GLOBE IS TALKING ABOUT PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY. This beautiful and relatively new vineyard area, located North of Toronto and South of Belleville, is taking the world by storm. The PEC region has something for everyone who loves and appreciates wine, including world class Chardonnay, delicious Pinot Noir and Sparkling, and many innovative wines. Here are a few of my recommendations for exploring this exciting part of Ontario. Wine and travel is much like discovering your appreciation for art or fashion — be open to anything that sparks an interest or emotion, and create your own journey. When visiting a winery, make the most of your experience by engaging with your hosts and purchasing a bottle for future enjoyment (you’ll often save on paying for tastings at the bar this way too!)
Taste and learn about wines with character at Karlo Estates. From barrel age Riesling to Frontenac Gris Rosé to the wines of Doug Gilmour, this winery is simply magical. It has a rustic family feel and the wines are unique and lovable.
For an amazing sparkling wine experience visit Vicki and Jonas, the founders of Hinterland Wine Company. Taste their wine from Greece, Muscat of Alexandria.
karloestates.com
hinterlandwine.com
Meet the wonderful ambassador for Prince Edward County, Norman Hardie at Norm Hardie Estates. The wines are made with precision and craftsmanship. His Pinot Noir is a must take home bottle, and the lineup of all of his wines is simply stellar.
Take a drive to Closson Chase, one of the wineries that helped to spearhead the recognition of Prince Edward County. They produce premium Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and after tasting these wines you’ll def initely want to walk out with at least one bottle! I also love the rustic charm of the winery barn.
normanhardie.com Head to Rosehall Run to meet Dan and Lynn Sullivan and taste the wonderful Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. rosehallrun.com Need a place to stay? Huff Estates is the perfect solution. You’ll find luxury accommodations with fireplaces and king beds in rooms, a winery on site, as well as an art gallery, restaurant, movies and a wine country breakfast, all amongst the vines. My personal favourite wines include the Cuvée Peter, South Bay Chardonnay and South Bay Merlot. Their First Frost is always a hit too.
clossonchase.com Drive to the South part of the County and visit Waupoos Winery. It has an amazing dock where you can dip your feet into the water, a candy store at the winery, and interesting wines. This is another amazing venue for a wedding. waupooswinery.com Stop in at Sandbanks Estate Winery some great patio sipping wines before heading to the provincial park. Enjoy some sunshine while relaxing in colourful adirondack loungers and a complimentary tour.
huffestates.com
sandbankswinery.com
Looking for a county wedding? Head to Casa Dea Estates, the largest winery in the County. Its picturesque vineyard setting is a wonderful place to tie the knot and celebrate in rural luxury.
Visit Traynor Vineyards, owned by Mike Traynor and began in 2008. He bought it as a frozen cornf ield and turned it into grape magic! traynorvineyard.com TM
casadeaestates.com
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 43
Legend FROM PIRATE TO
BILL JOHNSTON OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS By Andrew Hind
The Thousand Islands are today known as a cherished vacation destination, a string of beautiful islands set amidst the sparkling waters of the St. Lawrence River where it empties into Lake Ontario. It’s a place known for its peacefulness. The same could hardly be said two centuries ago. In the early 19th century, the maze of islands was the haunt of Canada’s most notorious pirate and brigand, Bill Johnston. One travelled through the Thousand Islands or lived on the shores opposite at their own risk. A man with the ruthlessness of Jesse James and the audacity of Billy the Kid, he was an outlaw every bit larger-than-life than his American counterparts in the Wild West. Bill Johnston was born in Trois Rivieres, Quebec, on February 1, 1782. Two years later his family settled in bath, near Kingston, where as a young man Johnston was a farmer and merchant. Then, like many others living along the border, he got involved in smuggling between Canada and the United States. During the War of 1812, Johnston went from criminal to traitor. At a time when Canada was under invasion by American invaders, the fact that Johnston had an American wife and an extended family on the U.S. side of the river was enough to call his loyalties into question. When he deserted the militia, there was no longer any doubt about his loyalties. Johnston was branded a traitor by Canadian officials, thrown into jail, and had his property confiscated. Johnston escaped from jail alongside a bunch of American prisoners of war, stole a canoe, and fled to the American shore. He never forgave the Canadian authorities for the loss of all his worldly goods. Burning with hatred and vowing revenge, Johnston offered his services to the Americans. For the duration of the war he served as a spy and raider, using his knowledge of the Thousand Islands from his time as a smuggler to evade British patrols and descend like a modern-day Viking along the Canadian shore to terrorize farms and villages. Once he even robbed the mail coach that ran between Kingston and Gananoque. At the end of the war Johnston settled in French Creek (now Clayton), New York, as a storekeeper. The village was a notorious smugglers port and Johnston soon reverted to form, making lots of money by illegally shipping goods between the two countries. In
many ways he looked like a pirate of old: a huge bull of a man who swaggered about with six pistols and a bowie knife tucked into his belt. He feared no man and became the leader of a large gang of cutthroats and thieves that included his adult sons John, James, Decatur, and Napoleon, and daughter Kate (known as ‘The Queen of the Thousand Islands’), who could handle a boat as skillfully as any man. In the aftermath of the 1837 Mackenzie Rebellion, many rebels fled persecution—jail time, expulsion to Australia, or even execution— by escaping to the safety of the United States. These exiled rebels began forming patriot groups whose purposes were to invade Canada, overthrow the British, and ‘liberate’ their homeland. Hundreds of Americans took up arms to join patriot groups, and thousands of others provided material support and financing. Johnston joined with these rebels, but more to use them to add legitimacy and provide a cover for his activities than out of any real patriotism. He was driven by desire for booty and ill-gotten gains, not an honest desire to bring about revolution in Canada. In 1838, Johnston, named ‘Admiral’ of the rebel fleet massing in the Thousand Islands, came up with a daring plan to cross the river and capture Kingston’s Fort Henry. Designed to withstand professional armies supported by heavy artillery, Fort Henry was a formidable fortress. Nevertheless, the daring swashbuckler wasn’t deterred. Johnston intended to use subterfuge and the support of allies amongst the townsfolk to make up for his meager numbers and lack of equipment. He was convinced he had a chance of succeeding, even though he had only a few hundred men. Most patriots hoped that with the capture of the town and its dominating fort, sympathizers would flock to the cause. For his part, Johnston probably just wanted the opportunity to enrich himself by looting Kingston. We’ll never know whether the plan had any realistic chance of success. An American schoolteacher named Elizabeth Barnett overhead the conspirators planning their attack, and set out on her own to warn Kingston by crossing the frozen St. Lawrence River on a bitterly cold winter night. Forewarned by this heroic woman, the Canadian militia was called up, the garrison of Fort Henry stood ready to repel attack, and soldiers stationed at strategic points along the river to repel invasion. The attack never took place.
While Johnston seemed to give up on the idea of invasion after this fiasco, he turned his attention to setting the frontier aflame by raiding farms, seizing vessels, stealing from travellers. With each passing month he became more audacious, and more brutal. On two separate raids on Amherst Island he cut fingers from the hands of farmers who dared to defend their homes against the pirates, and in another an unarmed boy was shot and killed. Johnston’s greatest and most infamous exploit was the capture of the steamship Sir Robert Peel, bound for Kingston from Brockville, on May 29, 1838. When the vessel dropped anchor at Wells Island, neither the passengers or crew had any notion they were being hunted by ruthless pirates. At 2am, while most of the crew was ashore and the 65 passengers were asleep, a band of twenty-five men dressed like Indians boarded the vessel. Brandishing tomahawks and muskets, and whooping like savages, they captured the ship without any resistance. Prowling below decks, these cutthroats kicking in cabin doors, roused terrified men and woman from their beds, and herded them to the deck with blades and guns to their backs. While the women were generally unmolested, many of the men were beaten and one—who happened to be wearing the jacket of a British officer—was threatened with execution. The scared passengers were then sent ashore, and then they and the ship’s crew were left stranded when the pirates made off with the Sir Robert Peel. Johnston was ecstatic with the capture. The loot amounted to $100,000 in cash (many millions in today’s currency), the payroll for army soldiers stationed in Upper Canada. In addition, they also stole valuables from the passengers amounting to another $75,000. In the aftermath of this raid, Johnston brazenly advised anyone seeking revenge ought to ‘bring their own coffins, as he had no time for cabinet making’. In November of that year, Johnston was recruited by a patriot lodge called the Hunters by assist in an attack on Prescott and nearby Fort Wellington. Once again, however, the plot was leaked and the attack foiled. The captain of the steamer United States, who the rebels had hired to move men and supplies to the Thousand Islands in build up to the invasion, took the money for his services and then just as quickly informed the Canadian authorities of the plot. At the same time, the rebels were having problems of their own. Hundreds deserted when
their courage suddenly failed them, leaders bickered amongst themselves, and those boats that did cross the river were swept downstream to land at Windmill Point instead of Prescott. The invaders splashed ashore and then, realized their plan was already astray, took over a sixstorey stone windmill as an impromptu fort. They then dithered away whatever surprise they might have by doing absolutely nothing. Forewarned by the captain of the United States, British red coats and Canadian militia converged on the windmill. A small warship was dispatched to prevent the rebels from returning to their boats and to bombard the windmill. The 192 rebels were surrounded, trapped, and under heavy fire. Johnston was nothing if not a survivor. With a few followers he managed to slip away under the cover of darkness, leaving the rest to their fate. The Battle of the Windmill ended a few days later when the exhausted and starving invaders surrendered. In the aftermath, British officials accused the Americans of aiding piracy. Wishing to avoid a diplomatic crisis, the U.S. government sent troops to apprehend Johnston and his followers. He was discovered near Ogdensburg, New York, surrounded, and forced to surrender himself to authorities. Despite his long list of crimes, Johnston was slapped on the wrist by a sympathetic judge with a mere one year sentence and a $250 fine. Incredibly, he was even given day parole to visit family and friends. Even though prison was a comfort, Johnston wouldn’t remain behind bars for long. A man used to freedom and living by his own rules, he felt caged in prison and so after a mere six months of incarceration he escaped. President William Henry Harrison, a veteran of the War of 1812 who notoriously hated Britain, signed a pardon for the pirate. Once again a free and unwanted man, Johnston returned to French Creek where he became a tavern owner and lighthouse keeper, and continued to dabble in smuggling. He died there, unrepentant and unreformed, on February 17, 1870 at the age of 88. When Bill Johnston captured the Sir Robert Peel, he sailed away into immortality. It was the daring highlight of a lawless career. More escapades and escapes were to follow, only adding to his fame as Canada’s most audacious outlaw, but it was that event which captured newspaper headlines as far away as Britain and elevated him from pirate to legend. TM
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 45
LIFESTYLE & CULTURE
A MAN WITH THE RUTHLESSNESS OF JESSE JAMES AND THE AUDACITY OF BILLY THE KID, HE WAS AN OUTLAW EVERY BIT LARGERTHAN-LIFE THAN HIS AMERICAN COUNTERPARTS IN THE WILD WEST.
ART GALLERIES
KINGSTON
BY JORDAN WHITEHOUSE With 12 art galleries—and even more artist studios—Kingston definitely punches above its paint class. And there’s real substance here, too. Modern Fuel, for example, consistently hosts ground-breaking contemporary artists, while right down the street at Agnes Etherington is Rembrandt. Here’s a mini guide to keep on hand to help wade through all of that paint, glass, pottery, multimedia and more. I’ve broken the 12 galleries up into four categories—contemporary, local, pottery/ glass/crafts and university/art school—but most paint outside those lines. >> TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 47
Adriano Castelli
POTTERY | GLASS | CRAFTS
UNIVERSITY | ART SCHOOL
KINGSTON GLASS STUDIO & GALLERY Although this place is known for its original glass works (and workshops), over 30 artists display ceramics, wood, stone, mixed media and textiles here, too. 56 Queen St. kingstonglassgallery.com
AGNES ETHERINGTON ART CENTRE With a collection numbering 16,000 and featuring everything from contemporary and Indegenous art to Rembrandt, this is the most comprehensive gallery in the city. 36 University Ave. agnes.queensu.ca
KORU ART ANNEX & STUDIO A great spot to pick up jewellery, pottery, wall art, fabric art, glasswork, metalwork and wood art, while supporting local artists. 66 Brock St. koruartannexandstudio.com
UNION GALLERY Always provocative, this professionally-staffed, student-driven contemporary art gallery is found inside Stauffer Library and features the work of Queen’s students and established artists. 101 Union St. uniongallery.queensu.ca
CORNERSTONE CANADIAN ART AND CRAFT This store and gallery located in an 1830s limestone building hosts the handmade works of over 150 artisans from across Canada, including Inuit painters and drawers. 255 Ontario St. cornerstonecanadianart.com
WINDOW ART GALLERY It almost feels like you’re outside at this bright, modern gallery that’s part of the Kingston School of Art. Local and regional, young and old, the artists here will give you a broad taste of the cultural diversity of the area. 647a Princess St. windowartgallerykingston.com
by air
TOUR KINGSTON 1000 ISLANDS
CONTEMPORARY
&
IN THE MOST AFFORDABLE WAY POSSIBLE.
MODERN FUEL Thirty-six years later, this visual, time-based and interdisciplinary gallery is still promoting experimentation at its new home in The Tett Centre on the waterfront. 370 King St. W. modernfuel.org STUDIO 22 Look out over market square while taking in oil, acrylic, mixed media, sculpture, photography and graphic works. 320 King St. E. studio22.ca
LOCAL KINGSTON FRAMEWORKS This frame shop has been featuring works from local artists like Sally Chupick and Pat Shea from its front window on Princess for over 30 years. 198 Princess St. kingstonframeworks.ca Gallery Raymond With more than 15 Kingston and region artist works on display, this is the place for seeing the range of talent living and working here. 334 Princess St. galleryraymond.com
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HEATHER HAYNES GALLERY Located right under Studio 22 and featuring Haynes, three other local painters, and jewellery from Whitney Haynes, this is a double-decker art bus not to be missed. 320 King St. E. heatherhaynes.com Sydenham Street Studios See how it’s done at this gallery and studio for seven artists working in oils, acrylic, mixed media, watercolour, print and photography. 178 Sydenham St. sydenhamstreetstudios.com TM
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 49
CREEPY KINGST HAUNTED PUB WALKS
N
ight settles heavily. All around the trees creak and groan, and the wind makes an eerie sound like a soft, human sigh. Snow crunches underfoot, and breath mists like fog rising from a graveyard before your face. A shiver runs through you, and you have to ask yourself—is it from the cold or the result of something unseen, something lurking just out of sight? Welcome to a typical night during one of Kingston’s haunted pub walks. For a small city, Kingston has more than our share of restless spirits. Indeed, there are enough spine-chilling tales of horror that a guided ghost tour introducing the public to North Bay’s sinister spectral underbelly has, for twenty years now, been among the town’s most popular tour attractions. Glen Shackleton created the Haunted Walk of Kingston in 1995 after participating in a haunted walk tour at Herstmonceux Castle in England. Since then, his company has expanded to include a variety of tours in Kingston and Ottawa. Every story on their tours is extensively
researched through various sources to ensure historical accuracy, and have been chosen on the basis that each has unique elements and numerous eyewitnesses to draw details from. Operating year-round, Haunted Tours Inc. unveils a special Haunted Pub Walk in the winter. “Halloween season is by far our busiest, but the winter pub walks are very popular as well. Pub walks are shorter than the summer walks because of the cold, but they are unique in their own way and offer experiences the summer tours don’t,” explains Morgan Anderson, a Queen’s University drama student who has been a tour guide for three years and is currently serving as acting tour manager. The tour isn’t just about upping the fright factor; it’s about educating the public as well. “Everyone likes a good ghost story, but there’s a historical background to the stories as well,” reflects Anderson, who admits she’s on the fence about the paranormal. “I haven’t seen anything yet to make me believe, but I want to and certainly lots of people
BY ANDREW HIND
ON: on our tours have experiences. I really like the performance aspect and the history, and that’s the great part about our tours…it offers something for everyone.” The winter pub walks are 90-minutes long and take you through Kingston’s dark past and haunted heritage. “We stop in two pubs along the way to have some spirits alongside the stories of the spirits. There’s one 20-minute pub break in the middle of the tour to warm up, and the tour ends at another pub. The pub stops are a nice way to interact one-on-one with the tour guide,” says Anderson. “We switch up the pubs for variety, but most often they are The Merchant Tap House and Tir Nan Og Irish bar, which is housed in the very haunted former Prince George Hotel. Strange things are seen and heard on the third floor, doors lock and unlock by themselves, and shadowy forms are often seen.” The Prince George Hotel is arguably the most haunted building in all of Kingston. During the 19th century it was owned by, and home
to, the Herchimer family. Legend holds that Lily, the daughter of the family, was in love with a sailor. When he was at sea, Lily would set a lamp in the window of her third-floor bedroom—if you look at the Prince George from Ontario Street, it’s the second window in from the right—to welcome him back to harbour. Late one night, while awaiting the return of her beloved, Lily fell asleep. A gust of wind blew in through an open window, knocking over the lantern, and started a fire than soon engulfed much of the entire building. Lily perished in the blaze, but her ghost apparently remains, haunting the third floor, looking out onto Lake Ontario in a desperate attempt to be reunited with her lover. Lily isn’t the only spectral denizen of the hotel. Two spirits are said to haunt the rum-running tunnels beneath the Prince George, and patrons of the Tir Nan Og have seen the spectre of a young boy. Indeed, the hotel is so haunted it’s been featured on the American television program Ghost Hunters. “Another popular story, one of my favourites, involves Theresa—a ghost that haunts an alleyway behind Prince Street leading to Rocheleau Court. Her exact identity—who she was in life—isn’t really known for sure, but we know her name is Theresa because psychics and people with Ouija boards all come up with that name when researching her,” explains Anderson, noting that the spirit causes all likes of paranormal activity in shops along the alley. It seems likely that Theresa was in fact Theresa Ignance Beam. Her story was certainly tragic enough to ensure that she remains chained to the mortal world after death. In 1868, this young woman was murdered by her lover, John Napier, in the alleyway. For some inexplicable reason, her bones are believed to be buried underneath. Since that time, many startled witnesses have seen her forlorn figure, asking people to help her find her bones. One young woman walking through the alley suddenly felt herself frozen to the ground. She was paralyzed by an all-encompassing but inexplicable fear. Feeling panic welling up inside her, she asked her companion if she was feeling the same thing. The companion, however, felt nothing unusual, but was startled by the wide-eyed fear she saw in her friend’s eyes. Several long, terrifying seconds later the woman finally regained use of her legs and she used them to race from the alley. Anderson’s favourite story during the ghost walks focuses on Kingston’s sordid, shadowy history rather than a restless wraith. “This one really gives me the chills. It involves the Kingston ‘Resurrectionists’, a ring of local grave robbers. In those days, medical students at Queen’s University had to provide their own cadavers to work on. They were really expensive and hard to come by, so they turned to grave robbers. I won’t spoil the twist, but that story alone is worth taking the tour,” says Anderson. The Haunted Pub Walks take guests through numerous spooky locales across Kingston. These sites may seem innocuous during daylight hours, but once the sun dips below the horizon and shadows begin to stalk across the landscape they can take on a darker, creepier taint. That’s when ghosts and ghouls crawl out from their graves to frighten the unwary. JUST THE FACTS: Tickets are $14.75, with discounts for students and seniors. Haunted Tours will also set up private tours for groups of at least 5 people. TM For more information hauntedwalk.com or call 613-549-6336 TM TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 51
about TOWN
EVERYONE LIKES A GOOD GHOST STORY, BUT THERE’S A HISTORICAL BACKGROUND TO THE STORIES AS WELL…
FROM THE BY LAUREN CHARLEY
SKY TO THE
LAKE : HELICOPTER ICE FISHING
E
very year the city of Kingston and the area of the 1000 Islands attract an inf lux of visitors who come to embrace the magnif icent scenery and witness the changes between seasons. The fresh f lowers of spring, to the warm breeze of summer, the beautiful colours of fall, and of course, the wonderland that is the winter season make the region an all-year paradise. The panoramic vistas of a place that unveils the beauty of the Canadian wilderness can be relished by walking on foot between nature trails, driving through orchards down country lanes, or floating peacefully down the St. Lawrence River. Views of the 1000 Islands, however, are most uniquely viewed from the best spot the area has to offer: in the clouds. From your seat in a private helicopter you can witness the archipelagos from an alluring angle, one which is bounteous in colourful trees, clear blue lakes, and in the winter, covered in a layer of glacial wonder.
HELICOPTER ICE FISHING Kouri’s Kopter’s Inc is the 1000 Islands’ premier guide service for a variety of helicopter adventures offered throughout the year. During the winter season from January to March, depending on ice conditions, the company offers a one of a kind experience, helicopter ice fishing, the only excursion of its kind in Canada. Helicopter ice fishing is an activity designed for those who want more than just a day out catching fish, because it’s the adventure of getting to the location which is half the experience. From an aerial perspective, the panoramas of the 1000 Islands can be relished as you travel in style from Gananoque to the destination of your choice: the Land of Lakes, St. Lawrence River, Quinte Bay or Lake Ontario. When soaring high above the trees and frozen bodies of water, the land appears as an enchanted winter fairytale as you near your chosen hideaway.
Each tour is customized to the preferences, budgets, and expertise of the fishermen so that anyone from novices to experts can maximize their fishing experience. The helicopters accommodate up to three guests, plus the pilot, however multiple trips can be organized if the amount of passengers exceeds the capacity. Along the journey, guests will not only be exposed to the aquatic life they seek, but also wildlife common to Northern Canadian regions including deer, fox, coyotes, and a variety of species of luscious trees. “The helicopter flight will provide you with an unforgettable experience with scenic views of the snow and ice-covered magnificence we call winter!” says Ewelina head of Sales and Marketing of 1000 Islands Helicopter Tours.
GUIDED BY EXPERTS Kouri’s Kopter’s assign each group of fishermen with one of their own personal guides who have extensive experience fishing and are well educated in all of the lakes in Ontario. Their familiarity of the region and personal passion for fishing has given these experts knowledge of the fish and their patterns and habitats. No prior fishing experience is necessary to enjoy and feel welcome on your trip, as the guides are happy to train beginners or offer their secrets to those who already love to ice fish. Preparation for your fishing is made simple, as not only will your guide assist you when needed, but they will set up your spot for you including drilling a hole and pitching a “hut” to keep you cozy.
THE ICE FISHING EXPERIENCE Ice fishing shares a lot of similarities with regular fishing, with slight differences in the techniques used and the obvious difference of colder temperatures. Start bright and early as you begin your day with the tranquil sunrise. Arrive dressed in warm winter-attire, keeping in mind that you will be spending portions of your day in temperatures well below freezing. Kouri’s Kopters provides their guests with high quality fishing gear to use including rods, tackle, bait and the use of a heated hut. Start by hooking a minnow or tackle onto the hook and once it is loaded, gently lower your rod into the water and lightly keep tugging until you feel a bite. Guests will fish for trophy trout, walleye, pike and perch, and occasionally some rare species can be caught on occasion. If you make a catch, it’s yours to take home, and the team at Kouri’s Kopters will be happy to clean and gut the fish for you, ready to throw on your grill and serve for supper. The fishing portion of the trip usually lasts a few hours, at the decision of the guests, and is followed by a gourmet pre-prepared picnic lunch. During the trip the group will also be provided with snacks and house beverages to keep them energized throughout the day.
MAKE IT AN OVERNIGHT VACATION Your one-of-a-kind ice fishing excursion does not need to be just a day trip. Kouri’s Kopters provides the option of an overnight stay package at a beautiful rustic cabin, the Balahack Lodge, located in Tamworth, ON. Balahack Lodge is an authentic deluxe cabin accommodating up to six guests in six beds. Relish your Canadian wilderness experience with a traditional wood burning fireplace and relax with Satellite TV. A microwave, coffee maker, linens and towels are provided for your comfort, and your stay includes a full cooked breakfast each morning and a hearty delicious dinner.
SET UP YOUR EXCLUSIVE ICE FISHING TRIP NOW! For a one-of-a-kind way to experience fishing and relish the alluring scenery of The 1000 Islands this winter, call Kouri’s Kopter’s to begin planning your exclusive custom trip toll free at 1.855.855.4354 or locally 613.382.3888 and visit kouriskopters.com. TM TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 53
We do have a number of great spots to ski; you just need to know where to look.
AROUND THE LIMESTONE CITY
Michelle Mcshane
T
he snow has my household pretty anxious to get out cross country skiing. I know what you’re thinking; “Cross country skiing? Here in Kingston?!” While Kingston may not be a cross country skiing destination, we do have a number of great spots to ski; you just need to know where to look. And I’m willing to share some of our favourite spots…but just a few! I started to cross country ski as a child. Growing up in Toronto, we would often head north to Algonquin Park to spend the weekend back country skiing. When I “grew up”, moved to Kingston and bought some property north of town, my husband and I would spend our winters exploring the lakes we paddled in summer on skis. And then we had kids. With our first son, we made our own ski pull, out of an old sled and a bassinet, with which we pulled our son around on our explorations. We even made a harness for our dog so we could try out skijoring; a term derived from the Norwegian word skikjøring meaning ski driving. Jake wore a harness, we wore a harness, and the two of us were connected by a rope. It was win-win. He got to run, and we harnessed his energy for speed! As our sons have grown, they also developed a love for cross country skiing. Last year, they outgrew the course we set around our back yard, so we had to venture out in search of places to ski in our neighbourhood. Skiing on backcountry lakes is fine, but not always the safest, and with deeper snow, or driving winds, not always a positive experience. One of our favourite (and close to home) spots is on the Cataraqui Trail. The 103 km trail follows a section of abandoned CN Railway running from Strathcona near Napanee to Smiths Falls. There are 4 access points within a 30 minute drive of downtown Kingston. For us, this trail is great, as it is free, close to home (we live 2 km from 2 different access points) and very easy for our kids (or any other beginner) as it is very flat, and with the snowmobile use permitted, the snow is always
packed, so we’re not slogging through deep snow. We can actually skate ski to some degree on the Catarqui trail. The downside to snowmobile use is often having to pull over when we hear them coming, and if there is not a lot of snow, they tend to expose the gravel which can scratch up your skis. Little Cataraqui Creek Conservation area is another great destination for cross country skiing. Just a few minutes north of the 401 on Division Street, this conservation area is very popular for all winter sports. It is the only spot in Kingston boasting “groomed trails”; where a track is set into the snow that will fit your ski. Skiing on a groomed trail is very efficient, and can be argued that it is better to ski on and easier to learn on groomed trails. There is a small day use fee (season passes are also available) to ski at the conservation area, and they also offer rentals and lessons. Frontenac Provincial Park is a 45 minute drive north of the city. You can ski on any of their trails that you may have enjoyed hiking during the rest of the year. However, many of their trails would be challenging for any backcountry skier, so they have marked about 10 km of trails for skiing, including Big Salmon Lake road which is closed to vehicles for the winter. Instead, skiers can enjoy this 3.5 km section of road that is often quasi-groomed by park staff. If you decide to venture out and try skiing this winter in the Kingston area, and do not own your own skis, there are a few places you can rent. Two stores right downtown, Sepp’s & Trailhead offer daily rentals, and Trailhead also sell skis. Little Cataraqui Creek Conservation area offers hourly rental rates; but the equipment must remain on the property. These are just a few spots that my family and I enjoy laying tracks too. If you live here, next time you decide to head out for a ski, before jumping in your car for the drive to Ottawa, check out our “secret” spots closer to home! And if you’re coming to Kingston for a winter vacation, make sure you include some cross country skiing into your plans! TM
KINGSTON
&1000
ISLANDS DESTINATION PROFILE TURN THE PAGE FOR OUR BUSINESS DIRECTORY
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 55
Kingston is the sophisticated small city of the 1000 Islands, overlooking the convergence of Lake Ontario, the Saint Lawrence River and the historic Rideau Canal. All of Kingston’s wonderful amenities are presented against the backdrop of limestone architecture, cobblestone streets and the history of Canada. Downtown Kingston has unique, one-of-a-kind shops, leading edge restaurants, traditional pubs and live entertainment that engage visitors and locals alike. Just park your car and explore this vibrant, creative and walkable city. Kingston, named a Top 7 Intelligent Community in the world, by the Intelligent Community Forum in New York City, prides itself on being at the leading edge of environmental responsibility, social equity, economic health and cultural vitality. Every September, for 175 years, Kingston has re-created itself to remain relevant to the 30,000 Queens, RMC and St. Lawrence College students who adopt our city as their home. This influx of young, creative and intelligent students has created a community that embraces creativity and diversity. Supporting Kingston’s extensive creative community are several key facilities; the arts incubator - the Tett Centre for Creativity and Learning, the world class Isabel Bader Centre for the Performing Arts, the Agnes Etherington Art Centre and the beautiful Grand Theatre. Kingston, where history and innovation thrive!
At Lower Brock Street within view of City Hall and Market Square, one can find this charming nineteenth-century storefront (with copper framed windows, and golden oak floors), filled almost to bursting with twentieth and twentyfirst century kitchen tools, cookware, pottery, and gadgets.
KINGSTON BIA
K ARLO ESTATES WINERY 561 Danforth Rd., Wellington, ON karloestates.com
436 Lyndhurst Rd., Lyndhurst, ON greengecko.ca
A cultural and entertainment hub of the Kingston region that features phenomenal shopping to boot! Be sure to visit the many specialty gift and fashion boutiques, art galleries and so much more. You’ll find a nice mix of small independent shops that cannot be found anywhere else, along with major chain stores that you would not normally find in a downtown of this size – GAP, Roots, lululemon, Starbucks and Urban Outfitters are just a few of the international chains that call downtown Kingston home.
Visit our 1805 barn to taste the work of legendary winemaker Derek Barnett and wines commissioned by Hockey Hall of Famer Doug Gilmour along with food pairings. We are one of Trip Advisor’s top destinations and the only winery to be named twice on the Top Ten Cutting Edge Wines in the World list by John and Zoltan Szabo. We’re proud to be recognized as the World’s first Vegan certified winery.
Hand-picked, value-priced goods from around the world and down the road accent this eclectic shop. Among the vibrantly-coloured scarves and clothes, handmade jewellery, funky home decor and eye catching Asian artifacts, there is an element of treasure hunting for customers, which makes each stop at the shop a memorable experience. Products are ever changing so you never know what you might find! Lyndhurst is only a short drive from Kingston or Gananoque and well worth the trip.
353 King St. E. # 200 Kingston, ON downtownkingston.ca
ODERIN KITCHEN SUPPLIES 57 Brock St., Kingston, ON oderin.ca
KINGSTON OLIVE OIL 62 Brock St., Kingston, ON kingstonoliveoil.com
Kingston Olive Oil is proud to offer some of the freshest extra virgin olive oil on the planet! At our unique Tasting Bar, you can taste and compare the bountiful flavours of over 50 varieties of the finest extra virgin olive oils and balsamics from around the world. Call 613-546-5483 for more information.
THE GREEN GECKO
ESCAPE ROOM
PHENOMENON HITS KINGSTON BY: KINGSTON ACCOMMODATION PARTNERS
SOLVE LOGIC-BASED PUZZLES IN ORDER TO GET THROUGH MULTIPLE LOCKS TO SAFETY
F
or those unfamiliar with the concept of escape rooms, the notion is fairly straightforward: you’re locked in a room with a group of friends and you must solve a series of clues, puzzles and riddles to escape. The premise originated in Japan and has since steadily picked up steam, gradually growing in popularity across the globe. Initially inspired by first-person video games and movies, escape rooms have since become more sophisticated in their methodology and challenges. Enter Improbable Escapes, a young company passionate about not only providing would-be escapees with a challenge, but also a team-building experience. This particular team-building scenario has visitors locked into a room for 60 minutes. In that time, they will need to work with their teammates to solve logic-based puzzles in order to get through multiple locks to safety. The game has no elements of fear and is intended to be played and enjoyed by players of all ages. Founders Emma Rochon and Melissa Eopen have entered the escape room space with varied educational and professional experience. Susan is a psychology graduate interested in how groups work together, and hopes to use the escape room game aspect to create a unique way for groups to spend their time. If interested, Improbable Escapes will be offering the teams teamwork analyses as well as teamwork and leadership workshops to help them strengthen. Caroline has plenty of experience in customer service and creating puzzles in a professional capacity – it makes them the perfect team for their new venture. “I have always loved the sense of a good mystery and the pursuit of
exploration. It was my business partner and my mutual love of excitement that brought us to start an escape the room game. We wanted to bring a unique experience to customers by giving everyone small moments of success and victory. That’s not to say everyone will escape the game but having the chance search, find, and progress through a locked room is an experience most people never have, ” says Susan, Co-founder or Improbable Escapes. While neither Susan or Caroline is originally from Kingston, they both fell in love with the city. “Every time we see the atmosphere of downtown, we know it’s something we want to be a part of,” notes Susan. They both consider Kingston to be a beautifully historic city that they’re lucky to be a part of and hope to become much more actively involved in the community. In addition to offering their guests the chance to flex their problem-solving muscles, Improbable Escapes hopes to lure corporate teams and birthday parties with the “Vinyl Lounge”; a space that can be both booked for private events, and used by customers to play the various board games they provide. Currently the price for Improbable Escapes stands at $23.75 including tax per person. Susan and Carolynn will be offering a variety of different packages for cooperate teams, birthday parties, bachelorette parties, and other large group events. To learn more about Improbable Escapes, visit their website at improbableescapes.com TM
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 57
There is no shortage of things to do, experience and see during your visit to Western New York; whatever kind of activity you seek, indoor or outdoor, action packed or calm and relaxed, there is certainly something for you. From the excitement of the Seneca casino properties to exploring the shops and restaurants of Ellicottville to the adventures awaiting you in the Allegany Mountains, Western New York really does have it all.
special SECTION
HOT toddy SEASON SERVE IT WARM AND STRONG LYNN OGRYZLO It’s a sure sign of winter. When the last leaf falls from the tree, we naturally turn our sights inside to simmering soup, steaming stews and warm mugs of hot chocolate. We’re nesting, we’re warming our souls, bracing for the spine-chilling winter that lay ahead. It was a trip to a Christmas Market where everyone was sipping on hot toddy’s and mulled wine that got me to thinking – as it gets cold outside, don’t just dust off the crock pot, turn up the heat on your favourite liquor bottles! >>
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 59
“
IT’S IT IT’ ’S S HOT TODDY SEASON AND JUST LIKE FRANK YOU TOO CAN REINVENT THE QUINTESSENTIAL WARM DRINK INTO DOZENS OF DIFFERENT FLAVOUR COMBINATIONS
“
Master bartender, Frank Ryan of The Western Door steak house always says warm drinks in the winter tend to sooth our psyche. It’s all about survival. Working in a world of anything goes cocktails, he knows there are times when tradition, comfort and warmth suits our sipping needs and moods best. The most famous warm cocktail of all is the hot toddy. It’s a mixture of sugar, lemon and whiskey warmed with boiling water. It was the best-known cure for anything that ailed you during the days of prohibition. Today we still make hot toddies but now they serve as a base for creativity. I’ve been known some to add cloves and others use brown sugar and bourbon for a caramel flavour. Frank flexes his creative muscles in a warm drink he calls Ma’s Apple Pie. It’s brandy, amaretto and instead of boiling water, he uses warm apple cider. He pours this into a glass rimmed with cinnamon sugar and garnishes it with a dried apple ring. Yes, he recommends it at The Western Door steakhouse when the snow is flying outside because, “it keeps you warm, especially at the thought of going out in a storm.” It’s hot toddy season and just like Frank, you too can reinvent the quintessential warm drink into dozens of different flavour combinations. All you have to do is replace the hot water with one of your favourite beverages like Earl Grey tea. Or how about hibiscus tea and tequila? Both are perfect for tea lovers. Use a spicy apple cider with lots of cinnamon and star anise for an Apple Cider Hot Toddy. Got a can of fruity raspberry lemonade concentrate left from the summer? Ok, then warm it up, add a teaspoon of honey that will turn extra yummy with delicious honey whisky. The reincarnations of hot toddies are limited only by your imagination. For example, only good things can happen when you mix pumpkin
butter and rum together. Add a bit of brown sugar and pumpkin pie spice and you’ve got a Pumpkin Butter Hot Toddy. This one should definitely be topped with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon! Another hot toddy combines two of my favourite things, candy canes and Kahlua. Pull a candy cane from the Christmas tree, crush it and simmer up a Pink Peppermint Hot Toddy with Kahlua and vodka. Use milk for a creamier version and add a dash of peppermint syrup for a boost of festive flavour. If you need to make hot toddies in bulk, thank goodness you dusted off the crockpot because instead of making dinner, it will keep your drinks warm for hours and fill your room with delicious aromas. Let your guests dip a ladle into the pot and help themselves throughout the evening. In a crockpot you have the added advantage of infusing flavours slowly, like ginger that will infuse a lemony hot toddy with spiciness. It’s the perfect antidote to chilly winter weather and some claim that ginger is nature’s antibiotic – a perfect drink to keep winter colds at bay. Start it in the afternoon, serve it in the evening, a Cranberry, Sage and Black Peppercorn Hot Toddy is herbally, citrusy and the color of a glistening, ruby red jewel. It’s an aromatic mixture of cranberries, whole black peppercorns and sage leaves simmering in the crockpot with honey, a bottle of white wine and a cup of Benedictine – yum! There are a few things you should keep in mind when using your slow cooker to make hot drinks. First, turn it to high to bring the liquids to a maximum temperature. Then turn it to low and let the flavours simmer away. Add the alcohol only at the end, a few minutes before serving. You’ll love your crockpot hot toddies because they fill the air with the aroma of savoury spices. Remember that there is only one way to serve a hot toddy and that’s warm and strong.
Hot toddy Classic YOU’LL NEED ¼ cup whiskey 1 tablespoon honey (or more to your liking) 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ½ cup boiling water garnish with lemon slice, cinnamon stick and/or star anise DIRECTIONS Combine all ingredients in a warmed mug and stir to combine. Garnish and enjoy.
Hot toddy Classic CROCK POT
YOU’LL NEED 6 cups apple cider or apple juice ¼ cup sugar 1 – 9 inch stick cinnamon 8 whole cloves 4 star anise 1 large orange, sliced 1 lemon, sliced ½ cup bourbon DIRECTIONS Add apple cider, sugar, cinnamon, cloves and star anise into a crock-pot, cover and cook on low-heat setting for about 2 hours or on high for one hour. Add orange and lemon slices. Cover and cook for 15 minutes more. Turn cooker to low-heat setting, add the bourbon and serve. TM
TODAYMAGAZINE.CA 61
Mansion on Delaware Avenue
Royal Treatment Girlfriends get the
Y
ou know it’s going to be a great girlfriend getaway when your weekend starts with an eager-to-please butler jogging out to your car to unload your bags even before you’ve popped the trunk.
“James” (yes, that’s really his name) is one of a half dozen butlers on staff at the elegant 28-room Mansion on Delaware in downtown Buffalo that dates back to 1869. The butlers are happy to drive you around town, pour you a complimentary drink in the drawing room at cocktail hour — even run you a hot bath in your whirlpool tub. Their white glove treatment sets the stage for a couple of days of being spoiled rotten in Buffalo.
BY ANNE BOKMA
in BUFFALO
StAr trEAtMENt At GrOOM SErvicE The pampering continues when we head to Groom Service Beauty & Dry Bar, an upscale beauty bar on the ground floor of the elegantly restored Hotel Lafayette. Here, positive feminine energy abounds, and not just because this grand neoclassical hotel was designed in the early 1900s by Louise Blanchard Bethune, the first American woman who worked as a professional architect. Katie Ambrose, a New York makeup artist to the stars who recently moved back to Buffalo to open the salon, gives her clients the kind of luxurious beauty experiences usually Groom Service Beauty & Dry Bar
reserved for celebrities. My girlfriend Donna and I spend a couple of glorious hours with Katie that begins with a mini meditation session involving crystals and “angelic spray” to help balance our chakras and continues with a facial, “intuitive make-up lesson” and hair styling. A final application of feathery false eyelashes has us coquettishly batting our eyes over our lunch menus when we pop in next door to the Pan-American Grill & Brewery to fortify ourselves for an afternoon of shopping with scallop cakes and sugar beet salad.
EMPOriuMS ON ELMwOOD It’s no secret that Canadians love to power shop Buffalo’s outlet stores, but we opt to bypass the mega malls for some good old fashioned street shopping. We spend a few hours strolling the mile-long Elmwood Avenue, checking out the eclectic range of dozens of retail offerings. We peruse furnishings made by local craftspeople at rÓ, float in the aroma of hundreds of exotic seasonings at the elaborately stocked Penzeys Spices, ooh and ahh over the unique gift selections (dragonfly salad tongs anyone?) at the charming Everything Elmwood, browse best-
sellers at talking Leaves, the city’s oldest bookstore, and try on flowing summer dresses in a range of boutiques, from Anna Grace to Blush and Second chic, an upcycle consignment shop where I pick up a vintage halter dress for a bargain basement $22. When we stop to fuel up on caffeine, even the SPot coffee shop is
Second Chic
a delight with its powder blue Victorian settee and tempting display of red velvet donuts, a local specialty that proves irresistible.
Out ON tHE tOwN Our extended shopping trip means there’s little time for dinner so once again the butlers at the Mansion accommodate us by preparing plates of pizza and fresh fruit before driving us to the opening night of the raucous musical, The Book of Mormon, at Shea’s Performing Arts center. The restored theatre, which features a full season of blockbuster Broadway musicals, boosts eight-foot tall crystal chandeliers and intricately painted ceilings in the lobby, recalling its glory days as an elaborate movie house dating from 1926.
Mansion on Delaware by KC Kratt. Groom Service and Second Chic by Katie Ambrose. Shea’s by Jim Bush. Buffalo Proper by Lisa Lubin.
After the show, we aren’t quite ready to call it a night. Fortunately, another theatregoer recommends a stop at Buffalo Proper, a restaurant and bar that tips its hat to the prohibition era when wealthy Buffalonians found a way to sneak a drink in defiance of the 18th amendment. Here, master barman and cocktail curator Jon Karel regales us with further theatrical Shea’s Performing Arts Center antics, displaying his frenetic energy while concocting fancifully named drinks such as Bare Knuckle Boxer, Snake Charmer and Killer Bee’s. It’s the perfect end to a perfect day. Tomorrow, we have a couple more stops to finish our Buffalo getaway – including an afternoon outing to canalside, a beautiful new waterfront area with free events from pilates classes to classical concerts, and what will prove to be a very memorable five-course prix fixe menu with wine pairings at Martin cooks, the city’s first example of chef’s counter dining where guests look on while the chef prepares his signature dishes in an open kitchen. But right now, as the clock hits midnight, we’re ready to head back to our fluffy beds at the Mansion. We ring our butler who arrives in minutes. As I climb into the backseat I utter words I’ve been looking forward to saying all day: “Home, James.” Buffalo Proper
toPERF
ROASTED By Lynn Ogryzlo
ECTION BUFFALO’S NICK PITELLO TALKS HIS FAVOURITE WINTER DISH
It’s one of the most comforting aromas known to mankind, one of the most succulent feelings to nosh between your teeth and one of the most soothing meals you can have on a cold winters day. Mothers knew this well, that’s where the tradition of Sunday roasts came from. But the traditional Sunday roast began a little differently than our roasts today. Today we’re more inclined to buy a premium prime rib or a tenderloin for a Sunday roast. But it wasn’t always like that. “We were poor, we had to buy the cheaper cuts and roast them low and slow,” laughs restaurateur, Nick Pitello. Nick owns Osteria 166 in downtown Buffalo, Villaggio in Ellicottville and his newest venture, Mercato also in downtown Buffalo. All are known for their creative and modern approach to cooking but ask Nick the best way to cook a roast and in one, long, drawn-out word he says, “slowly.” Nick remembers the scrumptious, fork tender roasts his mother would pull from the oven. The kitchen would be filled with the savoury aromas of meat and spices and he can still taste the lip-smacking juiciness of the sweet meat as it literally melted between his teeth. Now when he smells the roasting pork laced with fennel or veal shanks simmering in tomatoes and oregano it takes him right back to his childhood. Roasting is cooking with love. So why is the low and slow method so magical? Roasts are about 75 percent moisture with the water bound up in the cells. As the heat increases, the proteins shrink and the moisture is forced out either into the pan or evaporates completely. Too much heat and it has the effect of squeezing a sponge resulting in a dense, dry roast. However, understanding this process, we can use this knowledge to manage the heat and evaporation during cooking to produce a tender, juicy roast. This is what low and slow is all about. >>
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These kinds of roasts are not traditional from an American sense but from an Italian sense, they’re EVERYTHING. If you’re not a convert yet, try Nick’s famous Porchetta. A traditional Italian roast made from the shoulder of the pig and tied with the fat-rich belly. It’s butterflied, lathered with a pesto-like concoction, bound together and roasted for 8 to 12 hours or more. In Nick’s case he uses a mixture of herbs and spices, most notable, ground fennel. “Most don’t even notice the fennel, they just love it,” says Nick. He goes through almost one thousand roasted Porchetta every season. That’s a lot of roasts considering they’re only made in the coldest months of the year. “We go through so much Porchetta we thought of a food truck,” he laughs as he finishes his thoughts in silence. At Osteria 166, each Porchetta is tied tightly and roasted at low temperatures throughout the night, then they’re removed from the ovens in the early morning. The restaurant is filled with the savoury, warm flavours of love from the ovens. Nick describes it as, “waking from a dream so good you could eat it!” At the restaurants they serve Porchetta traditional style, sliced thin and piled over a fresh bun. Theoretically, it’s like an Italian pulled pork, but without the barbecue part. They’re served with the restaurant’s house made potato chips. It’s a quintessential, casual winter dish. It’s easy to make a Porchetta at home if you have your butcher trim, butterfly and tie your roast. When you get it home, untie it and fill it with your favourite mixture of savoury spices and tie it back up. Traditional Italian Porchetta will have a final layer of pigskin wrapped around it, so the slow roasting is also self basting. The great part about this style is
it produces loads of crackling, pigskin. “No, we don’t do the crackling (at the restaurant),” laments Nick. “There just wouldn’t be enough for everyone and we don’t want to start a war now do we?” Nick stresses that picking a cut of meat suitable for the low and slow method isn’t difficult if you’re familiar with the bone structure of pigs. You’ll know that the least tender cuts of meat lie where there is the most movement and therefore the connective tissue will be tougher and demand very slow cooking with moisture. That’s why Nick insists the shoulder is laced with the fat forward belly so it creates plenty of succulent, moistness during baking. Roasting Porchetta the low and slow method doesn’t use liquid, but ask him about his popular Osso Bucco? Well, that’s another story. The Osso Bucco at Osteria 166 is braised low and slow – and braising is a cooking method that uses liquid. When cooking with liquid, the liquid should never boil, but only simmer lightly for best results. Unlike traditional veal shanks in the classic Italian dish, Nick uses pork shanks. “We love pig around here,” says Nick. The 3-finger thick shanks are slowly braised in a thick tomato and herb sauce that bubbles lightly over the stove. He pulls one from the pot and lays it on the plate. He digs into the pork shank with a spoon and it literally falls apart under the pressure, while the juices run in every direction. He offers me a taste. The rich flavours comfort me while the velvety, soft meat succumbs to the pressure of my teeth into sublime deliciousness – yum. Nick takes the tip of his knife and digs some marrow out of the centre of the bone.
He spreads it across a piece of bread he just tore from a loaf. “It’s one of the benefits of Osso Bucco,” he smiles and savours the little moment. Osso Bucco is the most popular dish in his restaurants, served with a rich, creamy risotto, “it’s the quintessential cold weather dish.” Maybe that’s why they go through almost 200 Osso Bucco dishes in a week! When you do it right, low and slow roasting or low and slow braising melts the collagen, turning it into a rich liquid – gelatin. This gives meat a lot of flavour and a wonderful silky texture. It also retains the nutrients, vitamins and flavour making it not only delicious but good for you too. “These kinds of roasts are not traditional from an American sense but from an Italian sense, they’re everything,” says Nick. So what temperature is low anyway? In the restaurant, the special ovens can be set at the same temperature as the desired internal doneness: 125 to 130 degrees Farenheight for rare, 130 to 135 for medium-rare, 140 for medium. Most home ovens cannot be set that low. Most can be set at 170 or 200 degrees Farenheight. However, a perfect roast can most certainly be produced at that temperature. “Just put it in and forget about it,” says Nick, “anyone who works at roasting ruins the roast. Leave it alone and the roast will do the rest.” We all like our meat tender and juicy and roasting slowly with an inexpensive cut of meat is where all the good stuff happens. A roast is the consummate comfort food for supper. Thinking of his mother Nick says, “what could be a better way of making people feel that someone in the kitchen has been thinking and caring about you?” TM