Tokyo Weekender - September 2016 by Tokyo Weekender Magazine

SEPTEMBER 2016

Japan’s number one English language magazine

Five style-defining brands that are reinventing tradition

SEXISM IN THE CITY Will men and women ever be equal in Japan’s workforce?

“WE’RE SIMPLY BUYING TOO MUCH” Change the way you shop

PLUS: The Plight of the Phantom Pig, Healthy Ice Cream, The Beauties of Akita, Q&A with Paralympics Athlete Saki Takakuwa

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in-depth

guide

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS

COFFEE-BREAK READS

CULTURE ROUNDUP

8 AREA GUIDE: SENDAGAYA

19 SEXISM IN THE CITY

41 THE ART WORLD

Where to eat, drink, shop, relax, and climb a miniature Mt. Fuji

Will men and women ever be equal in Japan’s workforce?

This month’s must-see exhibitions, including a “Dialogue with Trees,” and “a riotous party” at the Hara Museum.

10 STYLE

24 “WE’RE SIMPLY BUYING TOO MUCH”

Bridge the gap between summer and fall with transitional pieces including one very on-trend wrap skirt

Rika Sueyoshi explains why it’s essential that we start to change the way we shop

43 BOOKS See Tokyo through the eyes – and beautiful illustrations – of a teenager

26 THE PLIGHT OF THE PHANTOM PIG 12 BEAUTY We round up the season’s latest nail colors, all featuring a little shimmer for a touch of glittery glamor

14 TRENDS If you can’t live without ice cream but you’re trying to eat healthier, then you’ll love these vegan and fruity options. Plus, the most delicious kakigori ever

Meet the couple fighting to save Okinawa’s rare and precious Agu breed

44 AGENDA Take in some theatrical Japanese dance, eat the hottest food, and enter an “Edo-quarium”

28 GREAT LEAPS We chat with long jumper Saki Takakuwa as she prepares for the 2016 Paralympics

46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES Hanging out with Cyndi Lauper, Usain Bolt, and other luminaries

30 COVER FEATURE: YUKATA & KIMONO TREND REPORT 2016

50 BACK IN THE DAY

Five brands that are reinventing tradition

Digging into 46 years of Weekender archives

SEPT EMBER 2016

radar

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S EPT EMBER 2016 Publisher

ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President

Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producers

Asi Rinestine Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Senior Editor

Annemarie Luck Alec Jordan

Art Director Features Writer Contributors

Liam Ramshaw Matthew Hernon Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi Bill Hersey Dorothee Erle Kyoko Yukioka

Sales Director Sales Executives

Takaaki Murai Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Mary Rudow Yu Suzuki

Media Strategist Media Relations Media Producers

Mandy Lynn Junko Shimaya Yumi Idomoto Claudia Sun

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 (03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) editor@tokyoweekender.com To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: customer-support@tokyoweekender.com For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: sales@tokyoweekender.com 広告に関するお問い合わせ先電話：(03)6863-3096 メール：sales@tokyoweekender.com Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

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@mizrama: Alec, here’s a question: if your wife had asked you to take her name when you got married, how would you have felt about doing that? @bapawn: Hmm ... that is a tricky one, particularly from the cross-cultural point of view. My wife hasn’t changed her name to mine, and if she were to have asked, I would probably have gone with a hyphenated name – if things like that were even allowed in Japan. @mizrama: I think that’s a good middle ground. I read an article last night that asked a number of men how they felt about this, and I was shocked by how many of the answers fed straight into gender stereotypes. It made me realize, yet again, how far we are from closing the gender gap. @bapawn: Well, that’s a question that gets right to the heart of gender politics. I’d like to think that the US is getting better; from what I’ve seen – with rare exceptions – Japan particularly has a way to go. What did you find as you were working on your article about the gender gap in the working world here [page 20]?

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@mizrama: A lot of the women I interviewed felt that while a door has been opened, Japan still has a long way to go. Kaori Sasaki, for one, described this as the beginning of Japan’s era of diversity, although she noted that it took a man in power – Prime Minister Abe – to instigate the kind of change she’s been campaigning for over the last three decades. Nevertheless, Japan is lucky to have inspirational women like her. @bapawn: And I’d say that we have a fair number of influential women in this month’s issue. You have Hiroko Takahashi, who’s setting trends with her modern kimonos [on the cover], Paralympian Saki Takakuwa [page 28], Akita’s legendary poet Ono no Komachi [page 36], and Rika Sueyoshi, who is making a big push in the world of ethical consumerism [page 24]. @mizrama: Speaking of ethical consumerism ... you’re from California ... so how come I don’t ever see you sporting a hemp tie? @bapawn: Hey, I thought we were trying to stand up AGAINST stereotypical imagery!

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WH AT ’ S O N O U R RA DA R TH I S MONTH . . . As the seasons shift, we’ve rounded up a few things to help ease the transition: healthy ice cream for when September’s temperatures still soar; the best of Sendagaya for an afternoon stroll; and a must-have suede jacket that’ll see you through to winter.

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ARE A G UI DE HOLY GHOSTS

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Sendagaya has been around for centuries, so it’s no surprise that it’s home to several historic temples and shrines. Hato No Mori Hachiman Shrine is one of the last shrines that still contains a fujizuka mound, a miniature Mt. Fuji built out of rocks from the real mountain. It was constructed as a stand-in for people who couldn’t make the pilgrimage but still wanted to pay respect to the Fuji Sengen deity. Nearby, Senjuin Temple is surrounded by a large cemetery. Built in the 60s, Sendagaya Tunnel passes underneath the cemetery and, as a result, taxi drivers tell tales of seeing apparitions and supernatural happenings while driving through the tunnel late at night.

N’T U H AS K U J A T R ING YE ND HA A M I U G S O S Y IS UNA K U , YO X – TH HINJU E S L Y P B OW N D OM UNDE O N I TS RITY C O O S R I D R R E U N S A AN INF OD ST BEING andi ORHO AGAYA B D H N G Luca E I E S NE C phs by I a r M g GIVEN A to DY N d pho rds an Wo

A NIGHT OUT Noh, a form of classical Japanese musical drama, is alive and well in Sendagaya, thanks in large part to the National Noh Theatre, an ideal setting to catch a performance. Many Noh theater groups and organizations are also based in the neighborhood, and actors can often be seen in costume, practicing their craft in the open theater within Hato No Mori Hachiman Shrine. If 14th century plays don’t fit your idea of a fun night out, then perhaps you can catch some more contemporary music at Bonobo Bar, a welcoming neighborhood institution that’s equal parts cocktail bar, restaurant, nightclub and art gallery. The atmosphere is relaxed and the clientele is mostly local.

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PARKS & RECREATION Of course, Sendagaya wouldn’t be a complete neighborhood without its share of outdoor recreational parks. Luckily, the neighborhood is basically surrounded by greenery. Shinjuku Gyoen, one of the premiere spots in Tokyo for viewing cherry blossoms during hanami season, is to the north. And one of the most visited spots in Yoyogi Park, Meiji Shrine Gyoen, lies just west of Sendagaya. Meiji Jingu Gaien is to the east, boasting several sport venues, including an ice skating rink and Japan National Stadium. One of the most iconic structures of Sendagaya, Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium, is also nearby, edged by a large plaza where you can get a nice sunset view of the Empire State-like NTT Docomo building and the Shinjuku skyline.

THREE SQUARE MEALS Given that Sendagaya is as much a commercial area as it is residential, there are plenty of places to grab a bite to eat at any time of day. Good Morning Cafe, near Sendagaya Station, offers eggs, French toast, and even healthy açai/yogurt/granola bowls for breakfast. For a quick lunch, Bird & Ruby has good espresso and pressed sandwiches. Next door, Monmouth is a stand specializing in tea, quiche and pie. For something more substantial, Hopuken is a three-story haven of fatty pork ramen sure to fill your savory needs. Snack time calls for an organic David Otto Juice or Kippy’s Coco-Cream’s [full review on page 14] coconut-based ice cream sweetened with raw local honey. For a hearty karē dinner, there’s Curry Bar Hendrix or Mokubaza. And for pun-tastic Vietnamese, Pho321 serves delicious pho noodles and bahn mi sandwiches.

IT’S THE FASHION Thanks to its location next to Harajuku, Sendagaya is home to dozens of fashion stores, studios and offices, especially in the 3-chome area. Many of the clothing warehouses in the area hold seasonal sample sales and special promotions, making for quite a mob scene of deal-seekers and thrifty shoppers. Fashion brand A Bathing Ape (or Bape) is one such company based in Sendagaya, along with dozens of others. Southern California-based brand Ron Herman has a boutique offering men’s and women’s apparel, as well as a slice of SoCal at its Sendagaya store, which includes a popular café and surf shop. There are plenty of highly specialized apparel stores too, such as No No Yes – a team of masterful tailors, dealing exclusively in leather.

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STYLE GIVENCHY BRACELET If you’re looking for a subtle accessory that has just the right amount of punk rock, this studded leather bracelet from none other than French brand Givenchy is your best bet. The Parisian couture house is known for pairing dark romanticism with streetwear edge, and this bracelet is the perfect example. We like the thick black leather and glossy copper studs, which give this accessory a rebellious air without being too over the top. givenchy.com

TRANSITIONAL PIECES TO BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN SUMMER AND FALL, STARRING THE ON-TREND WRAP SKIRT, AND A SLIM-FIT SUEDE JACKET Compiled by Vivian Morelli

TOM FORD JACKET Tom Ford suede jacket: these four words are all you need this season. Immaculately tailored suits, plush textures and luxurious accessories are Mr Ford’s expertise, and once again he does not disappoint. This slimfit number is made from olive-toned suede and finished with sleek snaps and zippers. The best thing about this jacket is that it looks striking simply thrown over a T-shirt, so it might save you a headache if you’re not sure what to wear. tomford.com

PRADA PLATFORM SANDALS Fresh off Prada’s fall ’16 runway, these sandals will make you feel elevated – both figuratively and literally. The 13 cm platform can be a tad intimidating for beginners, but the sturdy block heel will keep you firmly balanced. Of course, these shoes are crafted in Italy (where else?), and they feature crisscrossing leather straps and plush velvet, a key fabric for fall. Keep them summery with a camisole and flowy skirt, and add tights and a feminine coat for the colder days. prada.com

SAINT LAURENT HANDBAG A new season means a new handbag, and we can’t think of anything better than the iconic Saint Laurent Sac De Jour. This classic bag from the French label is a staple you will use for many years to come, so the price tag is easily justified. The standout forest-green shade with snakeskin trim is a new addition to this autumn’s collection, and the only decoration is discreet gold lettering and a hidden gold lock. Whether you use the strap to wear it cross-body or hold it with your hand, this item will soon become indispensable. ysl.com

MONTBLANC FOUNTAIN PEN Being slightly old-fashioned is never a bad thing in a world dominated by electronic devices. When’s the last time you actually invested in some stationery, if ever? Start building your collection with a pen from Montblanc, a brand that has been synonymous with the finest writing culture for over a hundred years. This particular Rouge et Noir design, from the Heritage Collection, is inspired by one of its first fountain pens that functioned without an inkwell. Show it off next time you’re filling out countless pages of paperwork – it might actually bring some pleasure to an otherwise mundane task. givenchy.com

ISABEL MARANT MINI SKIRT This is the perfect piece to seamlessly transition from summer to fall. The pale hue and lightweight material are ideal for often-sweltering September days, and the 80s punk rock vibe makes it appropriate for Tokyo nights out. We love the wrap effect and glossy coating, and since it’s such a statement item, it’s best to pair it with a simple blouse (or a cotton T-shirt) and ankle boots. isabelmarant.com

JILL STUART NAIL LACQUER R STARRY NAVY This beauty is one of five colors making up Jill Stuart’s “Nail Lacquer R (2016 Fall Collection)” which hit stores last month. Like the night sky scattered with stars, this deep navy glitter polish gives a beautiful, smooth finish that dries super quickly. It also contains rosemary extract, lavender oil, and avocado oil ensuring your nails stay moisturized through Japan’s dry winter weather. ¥1,500, www.jillstuart-beauty.com

THREE METAL ROSE, PUNK POETRY, NO SLEEP ’TIL BROOKLYN, WALK THIS WAY One of our current favorite local brands, Three launched their fall 2016 range on August 10 under the name “Walk the Line.” These four deep, rich nail colors are perfect for easing into cooler weather, while their gentle glitter glow ensures the mood stays light. They also include moisturizing organic ingredients such as avocado oil, jojoba oil, and rosehip oil, and their oxygen-permeable formulation allows your nails to breathe. ¥1,800, www.threecosmetics.com

BE AU T Y

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TS S E T A THE L N I P 2016 U R S E L T I / W I N & Dorothee Erle R NA L U L O A Y F F O R ed by Annemarie Luck DRESS il Comp

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NAIL ART TREND WATCH We spoke to the team at Joli Nails to find out more about this season’s most popular designs...

RMK NAIL COLOR CLASSIC GREY Inspired by the Golden Age of Hollywood, Japanese brand RMK’s fall/winter 2016 range seeks to recreate the iconic beauty of stars such as Lauren Bacall, Elizabeth Taylor, and Rita Hayworth. To complement their metallic eye shadows, go for this Nail Color Classic Grey, which provides a shimmering touch of glamor. Also look out for their Classic Silver and Classic Khaki. ¥1,500, rmkrmk.com

ADDICTION NAIL POLISH VOLCANO Created in 2009 by New York-based Japanese make-up artist Ayako, who has worked alongside big names including Karl Lagerfeld, Steven Meisel, and Terry Richardson, Addiction is known for producing high quality cosmetics with a luxurious yet no-frills finish. The brand’s fall 2016 range is called “Modern Nostalgia” and launched on August 5, and we’re already madly in love with their pretty glitter-based nail colors. ¥1,944, www.addiction-beauty.com

HANDS “For fingernails, we recommend staying classy and office friendly, but you can still mix and match to keep things interesting,” says Mitsue. See-through hues, whites and nudes on short, oval or square-shaped nails are currently top of the pops. Enhance the look with emulated rhinestones, pearls, seashells, marble effects, and gold details (including plated gold for those who want to splash out). “If you’re longing for a pop of color, highlight only one part of the nail or ask for color gradation.”

FEET “While we like to keep things fairly toned down on fingertips, we like to go a little wilder on the toes,” says Mitsue. Black polish with interesting patterns is popular at the moment, but so are bright hues such as hot pink or flashy tomato red. To add a final flourish, ask for glittery highlights on one or more of your nails.

Look out for Joli Nails’ “Nagomi Collection at Grand Hyatt Tokyo” which is inspired by Japanese ceramic art and is set to debut soon at Grand Hyatt’s Nagomi Spa and Fitness. www.jolinails.jp, 03 6721 9669, #jolinailstokyo

TRE ND S BROWN SUGAR 1ST T H E S TORY If you’re always on the lookout for quality coconut-based products, you’ve most probably noticed Brown Sugar 1st’s range of products popping up on the shelves of health shops and Natural Lawson. Founder Midori Ogina started off small in 2011 with the desire to provide her children with natural, healthy sweets. In June 2016, she opened her first store in Harajuku, which sells the full line, including coconut sugar, oil, and nectar, and also boasts an ice cream bar.

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KIPPY’S COCO-CREAM T HE STORY When co-founder Kippy Miller discovered that adding raw coconut cream to her diet helped to ward off the migraine headaches she’d been suffering from, she started experimenting with using it as a base ingredient for non-dairy ice cream. In 2013, she and her business partner Max Wolf opened Kippy’s Ice Cream Shop in Venice, California, and in late 2015 their branch in Tokyo’s Sendagaya neighborhood followed. WHY WE LOVE THEM Besides being delicious and creamy enough to pass for the real deal, Kippy’s ice cream is raw, organic, non-dairy, and sweetened with raw honey or dates. The team makes everything by hand, even draining, cracking, and shredding the organic coconuts themselves. WHAT TO TRY If you love the taste of coconut, you’re in for a treat as any of the 11 flavors will go down well. Alternatively, go for coffee or cinnamon blends, and top with honey salted caramel sauce and spiced pecans. ¥500-¥900, ¥100 per topping. 2-6-3 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku. kippysicecream.com

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W H Y W E LOVE T H E M Now, about that ice cream: It’s organic, vegan, soyfree, and made with coconut milk as a base. They test each recipe for quality and taste in-house, ensuring that the flavor will appeal even to those who are not specifically looking for vegan options. W H AT TO T RY There are six flavors to choose from, but we go for the mint chocolate chip every time. ¥320-¥400. 3-28-8 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. bs1st.com

MIHANE T HE STORY This brand combines two trends in one: vegetable ice cream, which became popular in Tokyo a couple of years ago, and vegan menus. We like how they’ve quietly built a following from their store in the backstreets of Okayama in Meguro. W HY WE LOVE THEM Not a coconut fan? Then Mihane’s vegan ice cream blend will probably suit you best as it’s made from a base of low-fat brown rice milk. It’s sweetened with 100% organic agave nectar. Other ingredients include fruit, vegetables, nuts, and herbs, making it highly nutritious too. Best of all, you can order the ice cream in tubs from their online store. W HAT TO TRY There’s always a lineup of interesting flavors including pumpkin, carrot, and even tomato, so try something different and go for a veggie ice cream. ¥290-¥830. 1-4-5 Okayama, Meguro-ku. mihane.jp

FROM TOP Kippy’s Coco-Cream comes in plenty of flavors with delicious toppings

ENJOY COFFEE OR CINNAMON BLENDS, WITH HONEY SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE OR SPICED PECANS

PALETAS T H E S TORY The idea behind Paletas’ popsicles was to find a unique way to enjoy seasonal fruits and vegetables. The name and concept was inspired by Mexican ice pops, which are called paletas, and are famed for their unusual mix of light and refreshing ingredients. The brand’s first store opened in Kamakura in 2013, and they now have Tokyo branches in Daikanyama, Roppongi, and Kichijoji. W H Y W E LOVE T H E M There are so many flavors to choose from that you could buy a different one every day of the month. The ingredients are natural and additive-free so you’re getting the real goodness of fresh fruit and veg (some flavors contain milk or yogurt, so be sure to ask if you want diary-free). Also, they just look so darn pretty! W H AT TO T RY We recently popped by their Tokyo Midtown branch, and we’d recommend the Rose Hip Tea (¥500) or Pina Colada (¥480) flavors. For the full list of locations, visit paletas.jp

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Ice Monster’s Omotesando store [ PROMOTION ]

R E T S N O EM

R O F M A LL SCRE

BY TO P S S R E END WEEK MENU T S E T THE LA

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ut how do they make it so smooth?” This was the first question we asked when we sat down at Ice Monster’s café and ate our first meltin-the-mouth spoonful of mango kakigori (shaved ice). The answer, we’re told, lies in the unique recipe created by the Taiwanese founder of Ice Monster, Frank Lo. The trick to achieving such soft and airy shaved ice lies in the original ice brick recipe, which incorporates mainly fresh ingredients including mango, coffee, and others. The mixture is then frozen into a, well, monster block of ice, before being machine-shaved to create the massive bowl of kakigori that lands on your table. This method sets Ice Monster’s kakigori apart from the conventional way of serving the popular treat, which usually consists of plain shaved ice topped with various flavorings. It also makes it more delicious, with the fruity taste lingering right through to your final spoonful. Founded in Taipei in 1997, Ice Monster built up a loyal fanbase amongst Japanese

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kakigori lovers who would flock to the flagship store when on holiday in Taiwan for a taste of the now-famous dessert. The brand expanded into China, and then opened its first store in Tokyo in April 2015, with an Osaka branch following in March 2016. Until the end of September, Ice Monster also has a pop-up shop in Tokyo Midtown, which is the only branch serving this season’s delicious “Pineapple Sensation” (¥1,500 eat-in, ¥1,200 take-out). Other flavors to choose from at the pop-up café include “Mango Sensation” (¥1,500 eat-in, ¥1,200 take-out), “Strawberry Sensation” (¥1,400 eat-in, ¥1,100 take-out), and “Bubble Milk Sensation” (¥1,000 eat-in, ¥900 take-out), which is tea-flavored and comes with a topping of chewy tapioca balls usually served in Taiwanese bubble tea. Every bowl also comes with a dollop of panna cotta, which balances out the sweetness of the dish. What happens come winter, you ask? Die-hard enthusiasts claim that eating kakigori is even better when the weather is cold because you can enjoy the contrast between cozy indoor heating and the freezing treat. But in case you’d prefer something a tad warmer, watch this space for Ice Monster’s planned menu of Taiwanese hot sweets.

CONTACT Tokyo Omotesando 6-3-7 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku Phone: 03 6427 4100 Tokyo Midtown Pop Up Shop (until September 30, 2016) B1F, 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku www.ice-monster.com

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Saturday 1st October- Monday 10th October, 2016 Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays Opening Reception: Friday September 30th from 18:00 onwards We will hold a concert by the "Daikanyama Oukoku" from around 19:00 (reservations are not required). For details please check the website: daikanyamaoukoku.com

Aoyama Cemetary

Nogisaka Station

The National Art Center, Tokyo

National Graduate Institute for Policy Studies To Shibuya

Gonpachi

Roppongi Dori

Nishi-Azabu Intersection

Roppongi Hills Mori Art Museum

Hiroo Station

Roppongi Station

Gaien East St.

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Saturday 10th September - Sunday 25th September, 2016 Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays Opening Reception: Friday September 9th from 18:00 onwards

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Te l : 0 3 - 6 4 1 9 - 7 2 2 9 We b : w w w. n a n a t a s u . j p

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[ PROMOTION ]

WORK HARD, PLAY HARD LOOKING FOR A SOCIAL SPACE TO HOST BUSINESS MEETINGS? HOTEL THE M INNSOMNIA AKASAKA HAS JUST WHAT YOU NEED

pened in March 2016, HOTEL the M INNSOMNIA akasaka has managed to create the ideal blend between smart business hotel and casual apartmentstyle accommodation where co-workers and friends can meet and mingle. Situated in Akasaka, one of Tokyo’s most culturally rich neighborhoods, the hotel welcomes you with warm yet contemporary decor – picture wooden tables, exposed concrete, a lipstick-red sofa, and a cute robot “concierge” called Pepper-kun. And aside from offering seven different types of rooms, there are also unique facilities on offer for guests as well as those who are looking to rent a social or work space for a few hours. One of these spaces is the “Workaholic” room, which comes equipped with a boardroom table, top quality audio system, and large highdefinition TV screen. Whether you’re traveling on business and need a place to host meetings and conference calls, or you’re looking to plan a team building or brainstorming session out of the office, the room offers a comfortable area that looks out onto a view of greenery, and feels at once corporate and relaxed. The meeting table is flanked by a whiteboard that takes up one entire wall, giving you ample space for taking down notes and planning

‘WORKAHOLIC’ CREATES A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY FOR TEAM BONDING AND SOCIALIZING

RENT THE “WORKAHOLIC” ROOM For non-guests, the room costs ¥19,000 (including tax and service fee) per two hours. For guests at the hotel, it’s half-price. For more information, visit www.m-innsomnia.com or call 03 3568 3456.

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strategies. To keep the energy up, you can order freshly brewed speciality coffee by Kyoto brand Unir from the hotel’s café along with croissants and other pastries. For lunch, guests are welcome to bring along their own food and drinks to be enjoyed around the table or in the lounge area. There’s a small kitchen space in the open-plan room, with crockery and cutlery available, so it’s easy to prepare your own meals, and keep ingredients and packaging out the way. Meeting finished? “Workaholic” creates a unique opportunity for team bonding, since you can end your day with a spot of socializing. Take a seat on one of the comfy leather chairs, complete with foot rests, and enjoy drinks and snacks while watching a sports match or a film (there are plenty to choose from in the hotel’s movie library). Of course, it’s also a great environment for friends – if you’re staying at the hotel and you simply want to enjoy a movie night, you can feel free to invite a group of people around to join you, and even order a few pizzas from any delivery service in Tokyo.

W H AT ’ S T H E P R O B L E M ? If you’ve never felt at a disadvantage because of your gender, you might very well ask this question. You might even be someone who believes the new quota law in Japan is a kind of reverse discrimination. But when the election of Tokyo’s first female governor is tainted by sexist commentary, and when you realise that only 11 percent of women in Japan hold managerial positions, you might want to change the question to “What’s the solution?” In an issue packed with inspiring women, we delve into these questions, while celebrating those who are challenging stereotypes and creating change.

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SEXISM IN THE CITY WILL MEN AND WOMEN EVER BE EQUAL IN JAPAN’S WORKFORCE? Words by Annemarie Luck

We have a new quota law, a new female Tokyo governor, and a prime minister who has turned “womenomics” into a catchphrase. So why does it feel like we’re only skimming the surface of the gender equality issue? We chat to a host of influential women in Tokyo to ask their opinions on whether things are truly changing, and what still needs to be done as Japan enters its era of diversity

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CULTURALLY, WE HAVE BEEN TAUGHT TO MOVE ONE STEP AT A TIME TO WORK OUR WAY THROUGH THE CORPORATE SYSTEM, BUT WOMEN NEED TO FEEL THAT THEY CAN START THINKING DIFFERENTLY

Kaori Sasaki

“W

e cannot leave Tokyo to a woman with too much make-up.” This was just one of the ludicrous comments that marred Yuriko Koike’s historical win as Tokyo’s first female governor in the July elections. Uttered by former Tokyo governor Shintaro Ishihara, the comment was laughed off by Koike who claimed she was “used to it.” (One could almost imagine Koike chuckling together with Hillary Clinton and Theresa May while comparing the gender-based attacks they’ve each had to deflect.) But for the rest of the women in Japan – and the world, no less – who regularly face battles in the workplace against inequality and condescension, it surely felt like two steps forward one step back. Her choice of make-up aside, Koike was also criticized for running for the position without getting the approval of Prime Minister Shinzo Abe’s Liberal Democratic Party (LDP). But there was not much else she could do. She’s in a male-dominated environment, and Abe chose not to endorse her – missing an ideal opportunity, we might add, to prove his talk of “womenomics” is more than just hot air. Ultimately, Koike had to blaze her own trail. Or as

Kaori Sasaki, CEO of both Ewoman and Unicul, might put it: Koike had to think big. “Think Big” was the theme of this year’s International Conference for Women in Business, an event founded by Sasaki 21 years ago. The champion of female empowerment is also no stranger to pushing boundaries in her career, having stormed her way up the ladder from a position as news reporter for TV Asahi (during which she was shot in the leg while reporting from South Africa towards the end of apartheid – but that’s another story). Held in Tokyo shortly before the elections, the 2016 conference attracted a record 1,000 participants, with 12 percent being male (also a record). The theme, says Sasaki, was intended to inspire women to think about how they can jumpstart their careers. “Culturally, we have been taught to move one step at a time to work our way through the corporate system, but women need to feel that they can start thinking differently. They need to imagine something bigger for how they are going to move forward from now.” Sasaki is not alone in her philosophy. One person who agrees with her is Paula Sugawara. She has lived and worked in Japan for 28 years, and is a trained executive coach and managing director of Lee

Hecht Harrison, which specializes in outplacements and leadership development. “One of the programs we run is called Elevate Your Influence, and is aimed at helping women take charge of their career,” she says. Referencing the new quota law that took effect in April 2016 and requires companies to publicly disclose their plans for hiring more women in management positions, she goes on to say: “We can’t just wait for somebody to say, ‘Okay, we are hiring you because we need to meet the targets set by government.’ Women need to think about how they can move forward on their own.” On the flipside, Sugawara notes that when some women do reach top positions, they sometimes end up overcompensating and becoming “monster managers.” “They become overly aggressive because they feel they need to prove themselves to male co-workers or bosses, and they lose the feminine leadership traits that are so valuable.” Tokyo governor Koike, for one, has indeed been accused of being too aggressive. But unless Abe’s ambitious growth strategy is able to truly change the collective mindset, many women, like Koike, will find themselves stuck between a rock and a hard place. Bearing in mind, this is a mindset that has hardly shifted in the 30 years since the 1986 equal opportunity law was passed in Japan. In fact, the shift has been so slow that in 2003, the government set a target to increase the percentage of women in management positions to 30 percent by 2020. Since we’re not anywhere near to reaching this goal, Abe has added the additional quota law in the hope of prompting better results.

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IT’S CRUCIAL TO FIND THE DELICATE BALANCE BETWEEN GIVING WOMEN OPPORTUNITIES AND CHANGING A SYSTEM THAT’S BEEN IN PLACE FOR DECADES

he problem, it seems, is that simply hiring more women doesn’t successfully address the underlying issues. According to the 2016 Global Gender Diversity Report by recruitment firm Hays, there are still fewer women aspiring to top leadership positions, and only 35 percent of female survey respondents in Japan said they felt they had opportunities to “self-promote” and communicate their ambitions in the workplace. Moreover, only 50 percent of the female respondents in Japan said that they believed they were being paid equally to their male peers. When you start out feeling like the task is impossible, it takes extraordinary strength to keep up the fight. Janelle Sasaki

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Etsuko Tsugihara, president of Tokyobased PR firm Sunny Side Up (SSU) – which was placed 19th in the world (and 1st in Japan) in the Holmes Report Global Top 250 PR Agency Ranking 2016 – could easily be described as possessing such strength. She was 17 when she started SSU with her mother, and by her twenties, she was running the business. “As SSU grew, I realized how hard it is for a woman to lead a company in Japan. The male-dominant workplace was full of jealousy, and men constantly talked behind my back and tried to pull me down. It was a daily thing,” recalls Tsugihara. “However, I had been working since I was a teenager, and had experience to draw from, so I didn’t let it bother me. I became very insensitive to things; maybe that’s the reason I’ve been able to run the company for 32 years.” SSU’s workforce is 55 percent female, and Tsugihara strives to promote an atmosphere where “women can work freely.” The company even has a “frozen egg policy,” which supports women who might want to delay getting pregnant in order to focus on their career. “In this way, we’re trying to reduce the worries of qualified career women who are considering when to have a child. In addition, we’ve created an environment where women can continue working after giving birth.” Of course, not all women are built with the strength of Tsugihara, Sasaki, or governor Koike. We need to consider that many in Japan might feel a massive weight of expectation being placed on them as the country goes through a transition and enters this “era of diversity,” as Sasaki terms it.

Kyoko Yukioko is a final-year student at Akita International University, and recently wrote her thesis on gender diversity. As she prepares to enter the job market in Japan, she expresses concern about the fact that the gender binary system and specific gender roles are still persistent in people’s minds. “Women have aimed for the Japanese ideal female image, often pictured in the household as wife or mother. There is a famous term for the traditional female ideal model called ‘ryosai kenbo,’ meaning ‘good wife, wise mother.’ But now we also have to meet society’s new expectations, and aim to be the ideal woman in the workplace too. I think women might struggle because society expects them to meet both the feminine, beautiful, wife-and-mother image, as well as the hardworking, devoted, career-woman image.” Even though it makes perfect economical sense to willfully employ and promote the well-educated but underutilized female population, it’s crucial to find the delicate balance between giving women opportunities and changing a system that’s been in place for decades. For example, if women are to be encouraged to return to work after having a child, companies need to ensure that the working moms are not relegated to a more junior, menial role upon their return – which is common in Japan and leads to a large number of women simply staying at home. This is proven to still be the case as recent statistics released by Japan’s Gender Equality Bureau Cabinet Office showed a clear dip in women’s labor force participation after the age of 30. On a graph comparing Japan to other developed countries, Japan was the only country to still show this M-shaped curve. On this note, Paula Sugawara stresses the importance of creating a reskilling program for women who may have been out of the workforce for many years but wish to return. “A lot of it is about confidence,” she says.

THE STATS Japan’s position in the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) adult skills survey published in 2013. The results found that adults in Japan display the highest levels of proficiency in literacy and numeracy among adults in all countries participating in the survey. Despite performing slightly less well than their male counterparts, Japanese women still rank highest internationally in both literacy and numeracy proficiency.

Japan’s position out of 145 countries in the World Economic Forum’s 2015 Global Gender Gap Report. The report ranks economies according to how well they are leveraging their female talent pool. Iceland was ranked as number one, while the UK came in at 18, and the US at 28.

The percentage of women in the workforce in Japan (2014). Interestingly, this percentage beat the US (63%), which has seen a decline in female employment rate. However, the key difference lies in the fact that Japan’s female employees are still not often reaching managerial status.

robably the biggest change that needs to happen is in the males’ mindset and working habits, says Sasaki. “I like to joke that we have too many gentlemen in Japan,” she says, smiling. “By this I mean that we have many laws and policies that are kind towards women, such as equal opportunity, maternity leave, and flextime. For the last 30 years, these laws have been used mainly by women, which means that men haven’t changed their way of working. They still put in long hours, and end up sacrificing their time with their family, and not being able to help out at home. But they work these long hours because they believe they won’t get promoted otherwise.” Change needs to filter through from the top down so that men and women are not only given equal opportunities in the workplace, but are seen as equally responsible for childcare, and equally entitled to leave work on time without being made to feel they are sacrificing their future career. Janelle Sasaki, the executive director of Diversity & Inclusion Services at Ernst & Young Advisory Japan, says there are three key areas to focus on in order to encourage women’s advancement: “Visible career opportunities, flexible working arrangements, and building a supportive workplace by reducing unconscious bias.” A large part of Janelle’s role entails helping companies figure out how to leverage diversity and inclusion for business growth and innovation. “Diversity is the what, and inclusion is the how. Inclusion is when employees feel supported, welcomed, listened to, and accepted. When companies hire diverse talent, and that talent feels included and part of one team, there is greater employee engagement

and satisfaction. Companies need to leverage both diversity and inclusion to be successful and tap into the human potential – this leads to greater opportunity to innovate and a better impact on the bottom line.” It’s also important for women to find supporters amongst each other. Groups such as For Empowering Women (FEW) in Japan offer regular events aimed at helping women to achieve their personal and professional potential. “We strive to provide a platform where women of all backgrounds can connect through workshops and networking events. We focus our monthly meetings on providing opportunities where the attendees can learn from speakers and each other, share their experiences, and go away with concrete tips that they can put into practice,” says the group’s president, Sarah Achilles. FEW’s PR and communications director Jodi Harris adds: “When women come together across cultural lines, we’re stronger and better able to advocate for each other’s needs, whether it’s something like asking for a raise, or addressing the way women are perceived. In addition to the topics covered, the energy created at the meetings by all of us coming together is what is so valuable.” Finally, we turn to Kaori Sasaki to ask how women can better deal with any gender-based discrimination they might face at work. With her characteristic blend of pragmatism and humor, she says, “You should never say that you’ve been at a disadvantage because you’re a woman. It’s better to believe that if you’ve missed opportunities it’s because of something else, like a bad presentation. Because if you start to think that you are not good enough or not given opportunities because of your gender, then you are giving up. Unless you change your gender, right?”

THE MALEDOMINANT WORKPLACE WAS FULL OF JEALOUSY, AND MEN CONSTANTLY TRIED TO PULL ME DOWN

The percentage of women in managerial positions in Japan (2015). The government’s aim of 30% by 2020 had to be lowered to 15% when they realized the country is unlikely to meet the target.

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“We’re simply buying too much” Rika Sueyoshi, TV presenter and founder of the Ethical Association in Tokyo, on why it’s essential we start to change the way we shop Words by Matthew Hernon

elevision presenter Rika Sueyoshi arrives for our interview in a homespun silk dress from Bangladesh that was made using natural products by artisans who were paid a fair wage. Her jewelry comes from Hasuna, a company that ensures laborers receive a share of the profits by procuring their gems directly from mines. The business card she hands over was created from banana stems that would usually have been thrown away by farmers. From her bag to her shoes, the 39-year-old always considers where a product has come from before buying. It’s a far cry from her younger days when she would throw out clothes almost as quickly as she’d purchase them. A lover of high-end brands and bargains, all that mattered was that the clothes looked good and the price was right. That changed around 12 years ago while reporting as a mystery hunter for the TBS program “Discovery of the World’s Mysteries.” “Of course I’d read a lot about inequalities around the globe and the ways in which we were damaging the planet; however, living in Tokyo it’s easy to feel detached from these problems. The turning point came when I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro in 2004. I was really looking forward to reaching the top so I could see the Furtwangler Glacier, yet when I got there I was struck by how small it was [over the last 100 years around 85 percent of its ice cover has disappeared]. Local villages that I visited rely on it for drinking water, crop irrigation, and power through hydroelectric production. It was the first time for me to get a real glimpse of the damage that global warming is having, not just on plants and wildlife, but on people’s livelihoods. I immediately wanted to convey what I’d seen to people in Japan.” The US-born celebrity immersed herself in campaigns focusing on environmental concerns and fair trade. Last year she formed the Ethical Association

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which arranges various events such as fashion shows, markets and clothing swaps where people can exchange unwanted items. The organization pushes companies to be more diligent in regards to supply chain management (SCM) and encourages them to undertake initiatives that promote greater environmental responsibility. Raising awareness of ethical consumerism, particularly amongst young people, is another key component of the group’s objectives. “It’s important that the youth of today realize their daily shopping habits can have a big impact on society,” Sueyoshi says. “This is something that isn’t really taught at schools so I’m constantly lobbying the minister of education to try and change that as well as running seminars myself. The purpose isn’t to preach about what people should and shouldn’t be buying, but to encourage consumers to ask questions when they shop. Of course I understand the appeal of purchasing fashionable items at rock-bottom prices, yet do you think that skirt could really be sold for ¥500 if it’d been produced ethically?” The worst culprits according to Sueyoshi are fast fashion labels such as Forever 21, H&M, Uniqlo and Zara. These companies have completely transformed the fashion industry, churning out new trends on a weekly basis. This has led to a culture of disposability. Garments are now so cheap people don’t care about getting rid of them. According to statistics from Japan’s Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, for every 10 kilograms of clothes bought here, nine kilograms are thrown away. “We’re simply buying too much (around 80 billion items are purchased annually, a 400 percent increase from 20 years ago), and that leads to an incredible amount of textile waste,” Sueyoshi says. “I realize purchasing organic fair trade cotton is expensive and not everyone can do it, especially in the current economic climate, but if you were to get something from say Patagonia or People Tree rather than H&M then it’ll last you much longer and you’d be less likely to go out and splurge on other clothes.” Fast fashion clothing is generally low on quality and bad for the environment because of the toxic chemicals found in the fabrics, yet as it looks good and is cheap, demand remains high. This has put extra pressure on factories in developing countries to produce stock quickly, and employees are subsequently forced to work long hours in dangerous and unhealthy conditions for low wages. The collapse of the Rana Plaza factory in Dhaka three years ago highlighted how appalling the situation had become. The tragedy, which killed 1,130 people and injured over 2,500, could have been avoided if proper precautions had been taken. Just five months earlier, 117 people died as a result of a fire at the Tazreen factory in the same city. Following these incidents, the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh was signed by hundreds of apparel brands including Inditex (Zara’s parent company), Fast Retailing (Uniqlo), and H&M, but not Forever 21. While safety checks have become more rigorous and greater transparency is being shown as a result of the agreement, progress has been painfully slow. Earlier this year, a Bangladesh factory that made clothes for H&M and JC Penny caught fire. Fortunately it occurred before most of the workers had started their shifts.

LIVING IN TOKYO, IT’S EASY TO FEEL DETACHED FROM THESE PROBLEMS

FROM TOP The collapse of Rana Plaza factory in Dhaka; we need to consider who’s making our clothes; the experiment in Berlin that offered cheap T-shirts before showing potential customers a video of shocking scenes from a textile factory

If customers were more aware of incidents like this, perhaps they would change their shopping habits. Last year as part of an experiment in Alexanderplatz, Berlin, a brightly colored vending machine sold T-shirts for just €2 each. When customers inserted their money, a video played showing shocking scenes from a textile factory where a girl named Manisha along with other women and children were working without a break for as little as 13 cents an hour. Given the choice of donating or purchasing, around 90 percent chose the former (watch the video clip at tinyurl.com/TWcheap-tshirts). “I think most consumers want to be more responsible in the choices they make, but without a constant flow of information it’s difficult,” Sueyoshi says. “Take unagi (freshwater eel) or pacific Bluefin tuna for example. Many Japanese people eat these products without realizing they are [on the IUCN red list for] threatened species. There’s not much about this on the news, so unless you’re actively searching for that kind of story you probably won’t read about it.” There’s also the question of how much we want to know. Some prefer to remain ignorant, especially when tucking into a mouth-watering dish or going on a shopping spree. We all rely on computers and cellphones, yet how many of us care about where the material in these products comes from? In January, a report by Amnesty International revealed that kids as young as seven were working in treacherous conditions in the Democratic Republic of Congo for a dollar a day to mine cobalt, a key element used in lithium-ion batteries. Many high-profile companies including Apple, Samsung and Microsoft failed to carry out basic checks to ensure the minerals used in their devices were not mined by children. So should we, therefore, feel guilty about buying items from these multinational corporations? Amnesty International fundraising coordinator Yoko Doi doesn’t think so. She does, however, believe we should be more vocal in our condemnation, pressuring these companies to change their ways. “We can show them there’s a real demand from consumers for ethical smartphones where human rights abuses haven’t occurred. It’s time for the big electronic brands to use their considerable resources and leverage to improve the situation for workers at the start of the chain. The mining of cobalt provides employment and is important for DRC’s economy, but that certainly doesn’t justify the exploitation of children who complained of being frequently ill and in pain from heavy lifting.” The likes of Sony and Apple have since released statements promising to address the issue, while Samsung via its Sustainability Report pledged to redouble the company’s “efforts to find ways to resolve these challenges.” It’s encouraging to hear, but without Amnesty’s report nothing would have been done. In the future, Sueyoshi would like to see corporations, governments and individuals taking greater responsibility when it comes to business ethics. “One hundred people taking a step each is more valuable than a hundred steps by one person,” she says. “We can’t just leave it up to NGOs to solve the world’s problems; everyone has the power to bring about change.”

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Okinawa’s traditional pork breed, Agu, gets its ghostly nickname from the fact it’s so rare, and facing a real possibility of extinction. Casey Hawkins visits a private farm in Ginoza to learn more about efforts to regenerate the precious breed ity, and breeders are having to come up with ways to meet an increasing demand from mainland Japan. Commercial farms contracted under the trademarked name Agu have had to modify traditional rearing practices, but this ends up diluting both the animal’s traits and welfare. Weekender was invited to a private farm in Ginoza, Okinawa, to learn about a small yet highly ambitious collective of farm folk aiming to regenerate the affordable purity and population of the original Okinawan heritage breed.

A PIG’S PARADISE

he pig commonly known as Agu has had a rough trot of late. Things first began to go wrong after World War II, when food shortages led to the importation of live stock from surrounding countries. In order to feed the impoverished, most of the native pigs were crossbred with exotic species. In the end, all bar an estimated 30 Agu were wiped from Okinawa’s sub-tropical landscape. At present, it’s difficult to determine how much of the native pig’s genealogy remains, and details regarding distribution of the surviving pigs remain hazy. As a result, the breed has struggled to thrive more so than other Okinawan culinary specialties. Nevertheless, the Agu brand is gaining popular-

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Kaori and Mark Carr’s small organic farm is situated on the island’s east coast, away from the hordes of beachgoers. During our brief tour around what was once a cattle station, we attracted the intimate company of goats, chickens, a horse and a scourge of mosquitos. Leading us finally to the entrance of an elongated pig run, the Carrs continued to work enthusiastically while eagerly answering our questions. Their energy is impressive, but even more so after learning they sleep in a prefabricated shipping container along with an ever-growing pack of furry and feathered companions. How they manage to stay so bright-eyed is anyone’s guess. Prior to adopting five piglets of her own, Kaori worked at Okinawa’s Livestock Research Center, as well as for a commer-

cial pork producer. Even with such extensive experience, she has spent the past four years trialing new ways to provide her pigs with the best living conditions possible. The Carrs claim that unlike pigs cramped in stalls with docked tails and teeth, theirs only endure one stressful day – that day being their last. Kaori cooks a combination of oats, barley, rice and vegetables on her stovetop each day to feed the pigs morning and night. The pigs also regularly snack on almonds and hazelnuts to increase flavor and sweetness. The production of organic feed and medicine is time-consuming, not to mention costly, and the Carrs recognize that most farmers lack the time and motivation required to nurture pigs to this degree without turning

These Tokyo-based restaurants claim to incorporate Agu pork into their dishes. However, due to the irregular supply, consider yourself lucky if the real deal makes an appearance on the menu. Those looking to try the heritage breed best start befriending Okinawan farmers, for it’s likely that the prime cuts will stay close to home.

KATSUZEN This Michelin-starred tonkatsu (pork cutlet) restaurant sources pork from free-range, low-stress farms, mainly in Kyushu. 4F Kojun Bldg, 6-8-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku

TAKETOMIJIMA Known for serving the traditional Okinawan dish called rafute – boneless pork belly stewed in soy sauce, brown sugar, and awamori (rice wine). B1F Daito Bldg, 6-12-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku

PIATTO SUZUKI An exclusive dining experience focusing on Italian cuisine made with ingredients from around Japan. They only cater for three parties per evening, so bookings are essential. 4F Hasebeya Bldg, 1-7-7 Azabujuban, Minato-ku

a profit. Chalking up the last four years as vital research, they intend to carry on monitoring their pigs’ life cycle to develop practical information for other breeders.

ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT AGU

BRINGING HOME THE BACON The largest commercial farm in Okinawa slaughters up to 1,600 pigs at a time. By altering the pigs’ diet and limiting movement, the regulatory slaughter weight (90 to 120 kg) can be achieved in nine months. In stark contrast, the organically reared heritage breed takes roughly double that. Among the handful of known heritage breeders in Okinawa, most own fewer than five pigs. Usually, heritage breed farmers have a personal interest in the breed, and it’s likely they already have a profitable agricultural operation up and running. So far, the job has typically attracted farmers within roughly 10 years of retirement age. Mark points out that this is problematic because a lack of involvement among young people could lead to future decline in the heritage breed’s already suffering population. As the current farmers become less able-bodied, they’re more likely to discontinue hobby farming than maintaining prof-

THE PIGS SNACK ON ALMONDS AND HAZELNUTS TO INCREASE FLAVOR AND SWEETNESS

itable stock. The Carrs fear that while the heritage pig continues to incur costs, other breeds consistently bringing home the bacon will only further increase the plight of the phantom pig.

THE WAY FORWARD The Carrs are hoping to one day develop a sizeable register of ethical farmers who can work together to repopulate the heritage breed while retaining its most desirable characteristics. They wish to educate locals as well as visitors about the significance and rarity of the breed by inviting them to witness what they do and how they do it. So passionate is the couple about organic farming that they’re willing to share everything they’ve learnt, from using medicinal herbs to DIY enclosures. The pair want little more than to inspire new and experienced farmers to breed happy, healthy pigs. To contact Kaori and Mark Carr, visit their website www.carr-pig-farm.com or their Facebook page Okinawa Organics.

THE BREED Its average litter is between five and seven pigs. Commonly, half of a free-range litter will reach slaughter. On the other hand, premature death is more prevalent for those in close confinement and proximity to other animals.

THE PORK Similarly to Wagyu beef, Agu pork’s fat has a lower melting temperature, which causes it to literally melt in your mouth. Even with its higher fat percentage and sweetened flavor, the meat’s cholesterol level is more than halved while having a high amount of amino acids, collagen and vitamin D.

THE FARMERS Collectively, the heritage breeders take less than half-a-dozen pigs to slaughter each year. It’s no wonder they’ve earned the name phantom pig – the largest farm in Nakijin cares for no more than 40 pigs at one time. The largest commercial supplier and exclusive owner of the Agu brand contracts many small Okinawan farms to help fulfill national supply and demand. Farmers agree to produce under specific conditions in exchange for financial stability and guidance, similar to how franchises operate.

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Words by Matthew Hernon

NOW PREPARING FOR THE 2016 PARALYMPICS, LONG JUMPER SAKI TAKAKUWA OPENS UP ABOUT OVERCOMING THE TRAGEDY OF LOSING A LIMB, AND WHAT SHE BELIEVES NEEDS TO CHANGE IN JAPAN BEFORE 2020

aki Takakuwa was training for a school athletics meet when she first felt a twinge in her leg. Tragically, what she initially thought was a simple strain turned out to be a tumor below her left knee. Surgery followed, but the condition showed no sign of improvement, and shortly after starting junior high school she was diagnosed with bone cancer (osteosarcoma). A few weeks later the lower part of her left leg was amputated. “It was a difficult time,” she says matter-of-factly. “I returned to school with a part of my body missing, mask on and hair falling out because of the chemotherapy. It must have been a shocking sight for my classmates who chose to deal with it by remaining silent. A teacher told my mum that it was their way of showing sensitivity. Of course I could understand that, yet I felt so alone. It was really hard not being able to convey my feelings to anyone.” Takakuwa found some solace in Mami Sato’s book “Lucky Girl.” A long jumper who competed in three Paralympics, Sato became a household name in Japan following her “I’m here because I was saved by sport” speech,

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which helped Tokyo’s successful bid for the 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games. Like Takakuwa, she lost part of her leg due to osteosarcoma. “It was inspiring to read such a positive story by someone who’d gone through something similar to me,” Takakuwa says. “Her book made me realize there were opportunities out there and that I didn’t necessarily have to give up on sport. At a real dark time in my life, it gave me encouragement, but that doesn’t mean I suddenly decided to become a Paralympian. At that point I wasn’t really thinking about my future at all. It was just about getting through each day.” The first challenge for Takakuwa was learning how to walk again with her new prosthetic leg. Then, in her second year at junior high school, she attempted to run 50 m in a PE lesson. Despite a hesitant start, she managed to cross the finish line. “It was an exhilarating feeling to be back on the track,” she tells us. “At the same time, though, I was also a bit frustrated at not being able to run as fast as I did before all the surgeries.” The Saitama Prefecture native started out with a prosthetic used for daily life, but later switched to a J-shaped one preferred by athletes at the Paralympics. It proved tough early on from both a physical and psychological perspective, however, when she got used to the artificial limb her times improved rapidly. She trained every day at an athletics club with able-bodied runners, and in her second grade at high school she was selected for an Asian Para Youth event in Tokyo. At the age of 20, she qualified for her first Paralympics, representing Japan at the 2012 London Games in the 100 m and 200 m sprints as well as the long jump (all T44 classifications). “I felt lucky to be there,” she says. “Unfortunately I didn’t make the long jump final, but I did get through in the 100 m and 200 m, finishing seventh in both. The results

were more than satisfying and the whole experience was amazing. Of course it was my first Paralympics so I’ve nothing to compare it to, but you could tell there was something special about the event. I wanted to spend as long as possible on the track so I could properly take in the atmosphere.” Widely regarded as the greatest Paralympics to date, the London Games had more participants, larger audiences and wider media coverage than ever before. Focusing on sporting excellence rather than competitors’ disabilities, there was a tidal wave of excitement at the time and the hope is that it’ll continue in Brazil and Japan. Early indications aren’t so positive, though. Just a few weeks before the 2016 Paralympics, only 12 percent of the tickets had been sold, and as a result major budget cuts were expected. Sales for the Tokyo Games should be much higher, yet Takakuwa believes much needs to be done in this country before the event arrives here in 2020. “While progress is being made in Japan, it’s happening at a very slow pace,” she says. “There are few tournaments here so we have to go abroad to compete. For up-andcoming athletes, it remains a real struggle to get sponsorship. [Saki’s teammate Maya Nakanishi raised funds for the 2012 Games by publishing a semi-nude calendar.] As well as a lack of money, there’s a shortage of venues and training centers. Another issue is infrastructure. Many buildings in Tokyo aren’t well equipped for people with disabilities or tourists with suitcases. As I said, things are gradually improving and Japan has learnt from the London Paralympics, which is positive. I just hope things can develop at a quicker pace over the next four years.” Takakuwa will be 28 then so should just be reaching her peak. The focus for now, though, is Rio and the three events she’ll once again be featuring in this month.

The long jump used to be the discipline she concentrated on least, but recent form suggests this could be her best chance of a medal in Brazil. At major international events in Doha and London last year against the world’s top jumpers, she managed to finish third on both occasions and is getting closer to the five meter mark. Competing against able-bodied athletes at the Kawasaki Grand-Prix in May will have given her confidence a further boost. As for the sprints, her form isn’t looking as good, which is a concern considering she believes that a personal best will be required in both the 100 m and 200 m to reach the finals. “In Qatar I was knocked out at the qualifying stages for both sprints, which was a real wake-up call,” she says. “It was at that point that my coach and I both realized that the world had got faster and I needed to up my game. In London I finished seventh in the 100 m with a time of 14.22, whereas in Rio I think I’ll need to go under 13.5 just to reach the final. My best time is 13.69 so it’s going to be tough. The quality of the field is constantly getting better. As well as experienced champions such as Marie-Amélie Le Fur (France), you also have exciting youngsters like Sophie Kamlish (UK) coming through. I’m looking forward to competing against them and I just hope I can reach my goal of improving on London.”

IT WAS A DIFFICULT TIME … I RETURNED TO SCHOOL WITH A PART OF MY BODY MISSING

PARALYMPICS THROUGH THE AGES

1948

To coincide with the first post-war Olympics held in London, neurologist Dr. Ludwig Guttmann decided to organize a competition involving WWII veterans with spinal cord injuries at a rehabilitation facility in Aylesbury, England. It was called the 1948 International Wheelchair Games, though only Brits competed. Four years later, the Netherlands joined the event.

1960

The first official Paralympics – only for athletes in wheelchairs, but not open solely to war veterans – took place in Rome in 1960. An impressive 400 competitors from 23 countries took part. As there were no more than three athletes or teams per event, everyone was guaranteed a medal.

1976

Those numbers increased to 1,600 competitors from 40 countries at the Toronto Games in 1976. For the first time, amputees and visually impaired athletes were allowed to compete. The maiden Winter Paralympics also took place that year in Ornskoldsvik, Sweden.

2000

From 1996, athletes with intellectual disabilities were allowed to participate at the Paralympics. An IQ of less than 70 was required. Just two of Spain’s 12-man basketball squad at the 2000 Games had genuine disabilities. The other 10 used fake medical certificates. They beat China in the final, but were later stripped of their medals. Undercover journalist, Carlos Ribagorda, who played in the team, claimed Spain had also faked disabilities in other sports.

2012

After receiving a suspension for the 2004 and 2008 Games, competitions involving athletes with intellectual disabilities returned in 2012, albeit with greater scrutiny and sports intelligence tests determining eligibility. The London Paralympics was the biggest ever with 4,302 athletes from 164 countries. There were a total of 503 events in 20 sports.

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KIMONO & YUKATA TREND REPORT ’16

Compiled by Dorothee Erle

In Japan, tradition never goes out of fashion. But that doesn’t mean it never gets reborn. Since the kimono’s straight-line shape was established in 794, the garment has continued to inspire style trends, and lately we’ve seen plenty of modern takes on the conventional cut. From rock chic to sophisticated and playful, contemporary kimono and yukata designs are full of personality. To help you pick out your favorite, we interviewed five innovative designers and showcased what they have on offer for 2016.

Glam Punk TS U K I K AG EYA Best for: Tsukikageya’s yukatas are for those who can’t bear to get lost in the crowd. Owner Natsuki Shigeta describes her customers as “fashion connoisseurs” – those who have their own style and enjoy combining high fashion, street and vintage brands. The look: Exclusively white and navy blue yukata with contemporary and occasionally daring (and by daring we mean explicit) patterns. Contrasting colorful obi and clutches, photo-printed or bejeweled with Swarovski crystals to give off a glam-rock vibe. The latest: Shigeta says she wants to enhance the wearer’s mood with her designs, and her 2016 pieces are bound to do just that. This year’s hand-drawn, doodle-like patterns such as cats and kaomoji (Japanese emoticons) are screamingly cute. But paired with Tsukikageya’s punkish accessories, they transform into something sexier. Where to shop: Tsukikageya store (1-9-19 Tomigaya, Shibuya-ku), online at home.a07.itscom.net/kageya2/, or at the brand’s annual Laforet pop-up store. Follow at www.instagram.com/natsuki_shigeta Price: Around ¥50,000 T OKYO WE E KE N DE R | S E PTE M B E R 2 0 1 6 | 3 1

Geometric Genius TA K A H AS H I HIRO KO Best for: “Those who live by the values they’ve created for themselves,” says designer Takahashi Hiroko. The look: All of Hiroko’s textile designs are based on “circles and lines,” although they are far from boring. ”I want to express the unlimited possibilities that can be explored within boundaries,” she says. “And I want to play around with the rigid traditional structure of the kimono.” Her range is timeless in that geometric shapes will never be démodé, but it holds surprises in the way of color choices and lining details. The latest: Sweeping, detailed patterns in black, grey, purple and blue that never stray from Hiroko’s line-and-circle-principle yet offer enough variety that you’ll find it hard to choose. Where to shop: At the Takahashi Hiroko Oshiage Studio: takahashihiroko.com/studio. Price: ¥60,000-¥120,000 3 2 | S E P T EM B ER 2 0 1 6 | TOKYO W E E K E ND E R

Arty Inspiration SUP ER SEVEN Best for: Youthful trendsetters who want their artistic nature to shine through their Jackson Pollock-esque yukata design. The look: Leaving traditional patterns behind, Super Seven creates a fashion statement with their multi-colored yukatas, which are ideal for the season’s final few festivals. The latest: Nana Watanabe, creative head of the brand, had the image of an aquarium and the vitality of fish and coral in mind while designing her latest pieces: “Like you dove right in there with your yukata and all those colors bled and splattered.” That explains the 70s flashbacks we’re getting. Where to shop: Online at superseven.thebase.in. Check the website for pop-up stores. Price: ¥30,000 Photographer: Terukazu Sugino, hair & make-up: Nanae Nojiri, model Hikari T OKYO WE E KE N DE R | S E PTE M B E R 2 0 1 6 | 3 3

Edo Meets Rock RUMI RO C K Best for: “Those for whom it is unthinkable to be caught in the same design as anybody else,” says designer Rumi Shibasaki. The look: Rock ’n’ roll yukata with edgy patterns and eye-catching colors. Matching obi and shiny, two-colored heko obi (an informal obi made of soft cloth). Despite the modern look, Shibasaki maintains a strong focus on traditional production and therefore describes her designs as “Edo meets rock.” The latest: This year sees Rumi Rock embracing whimsical, nature-inspired or history-inspired designs. At first glance, the bold patterns look like traditional motifs, but they include non-traditional images such as skulls, bats and even the Loch Ness Monster. Where to shop: Online at shop.rumirock. com, where you’ll also find information on sales events. Price: ¥30,000-¥50,000 3 4 | S E P T EM B ER 2 0 1 6 | TOKYO W E E K E ND E R

Runway Ready J OTA RO SA I TO Best for: Men and women with a penchant for high-quality fabrics and sophisticated, investment pieces that they can enjoy for years to come. The look: Elegant designs that translate the traditional kimono into a modern couture item. This is a luxury brand that can be seen annually at Tokyo Fashion Week, and could be called the Dolce & Gabbana of kimono fashion. All of this is stamped, of course, with the unique vision and voice of renowned designer Jotaro Saito. The latest: Saito’s new collection, “Go Beyond,” is inspired by Japanese subculture, such as animation and games, as well as more traditional culture. The designer manages to merge the two in a chic range that brims with subtle color and theme contrasts. Where to shop: Jotaro Saito store (Roppongi Hills, Roppongi Keyakizaka-dori, 6-9-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku), or at www.jotaro.net/shop. Price: From ¥60,000 T OKYO WE E KE N DE R | S E PTE M B E R 2 0 1 6 | 3 5

Forever Beloved TRAVEL GUIDE: AKITA [ PROMOTION ]

A character steeped in Japanese art and culture, the Akita bijin is recognized throughout the country as a national ideal for beauty. Join us in our continuing Akita series as we count the ways in which her far-reaching inspiration endures

sk most people in Japan what comes to their minds when they hear the word “Akita,” and the Akita bijin, or Akita beauty, is probably the first thing. In fact, she is so well known in Japanese culture that her “look” is almost a paragon of traditional Japanese female beauty. She has pale skin, a rosy flush to her cheeks, alluring eyes, and a long, straight nose. This image is so persistent that amateur anthropologists over the past generations have tried to find a relationship between the land and history of Akita and the “fairness” of its women. Some of the possible reasons include the prefecture’s fresh, clear water, the quality of Akita rice, and other natural influences. One Dr. Sugimoto, an Akita native, spent some time researching the matter and published his findings in a Bungei Shunju magazine article in 1966, where the good doctor argued that the women were blessed with a “beauty that was [in part] due to … short daylight hours and the remoteness from other prefectures due to the mountains.”

However, one interpretation, offered in an article on the Japanese language and culture site Tofugu (and which could just be a beautiful legend), is that the features that we associate with the Akita bijin belonged to a single woman: the legendary poetess Ono no Komachi. She came to fame in Kyoto during the Heian period, and was renowned for her beauty, the sensitivity and complexity of her verses, and her many love affairs. As tradition goes – in Akita at least – Ono no Komachi was the daughter of a local lord from the area that would later be known as Akita. Of course, given her historical legacy, many different areas want to claim her as a “native daughter.” Nonetheless, we like the idea of a figure from the far-flung north making a hit in the capital city, so that’s where our hearts lie. You can see one of her poems below, which demonstrates a sensibility that would have delighted her lovers and perhaps driven her rivals in love – or in poetry – to fits of envy:

A depiction of Ono no Komachi by Hosoda Eishi, painted between 1793 and 1797, hangs at the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam

Was I lost in thoughts of love When I closed my eyes? He Appeared, and Had I known it for a dream I would not have awakened.

SHE INSPIRED A NORTHERN GEISHA TRADITION

Ono no Komachi was celebrated for her beauty, the qualities of which also happen to match the Akita bijin “type”: white skin, those captivating eyes, and a long dainty nose. Could it be that this legendary poet was the inspiration not only to her many lovers at court, but also for a standard of beauty recognized throughout Japan? It’s lovely to consider, at the very least.

IMMORTALIZED ON BOTH PAGE AND STAGE A celebrated beauty with a sensational love life is naturally the stuff of great theater, so it’s only natural that there are several famous Noh plays that dramatize her life, loves, and gift for verse. One of them, “Sotoba Komachi,” was reworked into a modern play by the great Japanese writer Yukio Mishima.

BRANDS LOVE A BEAUTY It’s fitting that the name “Komachi” has become a shorthand way to refer to any great beauty. The name of this celebrated Akita bijin is now associated with a variety of different products, from the celebrated Akita Komachi rice variety to the Shinkansen train line that heads north up into Akita – designed by famed industrial designer Ken Okuyama, who set the look of a pair of Ferrari’s models in the 2000s. Of course, along with these products, the ideal embodied by the Akita bijin and other pale Japanese beauties has also inspired countless lines of skin whitening creams, long gloves, and massive sun visors meant to ensure that their wearers stay fair, year round.

SHE’S BIG ON THE FESTIVAL SCENE On the second Sunday of June, in the city of Yuzawa, a festival is held to honor Ono no Komachi. To mark the occasion, seven young women dressed in kimono and ichime-gasa – wide-brimmed hats with nearly floor-length veils – each recite one of the celebrated poet’s verses.

COULD IT BE THAT THIS LEGENDARY POET WAS THE INSPIRATION FOR A STANDARD OF BEAUTY RECOGNIZED THROUGHOUT JAPAN?

Although they were not as well known as those in Kyoto, Akita had a lively community of geisha performers well into the 20th century. However, over the last several decades, the practice had died out, and with no senior teachers to pass on their knowledge, the Akita geisha were poised to fade into a historical footnote. However, a young local entrepreneur, Chinatsu Mizuno, had other ideas. Hopeful that her efforts could help resuscitate this tradition and draw attention to Akita’s unique cultural heritage, Mizuno spent a great deal of time investigating the history of the once-thriving pleasure quarter along the Asahi River in Akita City, where geisha entertained both wealthy locals and travelers. With support from local governments and crowdfunding projects, she launched a company called Sen, which is reviving the geisha tradition by training maiko (apprentice geisha) how to dance in the classical style, perform the traditional tea ceremony, and play musical instruments. They now perform at Matsushita, a former restaurant that has been transformed into a two-floor performance space/café/bar, as well as at hotels and other venues around the area. Watching these Akita maiko engaged in the beautiful practices of the past, it’s easy to recognize a gorgeous tradition that lives on in their graceful movement, clear voices, and fair faces. It’s a beauty that dates back centuries, and only continues to improve with age. Matsushita offers two floors: a café on the first floor and second floor bar featuring sake from all of the breweries in Akita. It’s also a perfect place to see the maiko perform. To find out more about the Akita maiko revival, and for other opportunities to catch a glimpse of these local beauties, visit bit.ly/TWAkitaMaiko

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TRAVEL GUIDE: AKITA [ PROMOTION ]

Au Naturale Home to streams and rivers of an almost unearthly blue that reflects the mountainous landscape on clear days, the Dakigaeri Valley is truly one of the natural beauties of Akita, and very close to the onsens of Nyuto EMBRACEABLE VIEW Students of Japanese might find a bit of a mystery lurking in the name of this lovely landscape: Dakigaeri (抱返り) contains the kanji for “embrace” (抱) and “return” (返). As one story goes, the old mountain road that wove its way through the area was so narrow and treacherous that people going either way would have needed to embrace in order to make their way around each other. Fortunately, in this day and age, visitors can look forward to a well-built promenade that is wide enough to allow more than a few people to make their way up side by side – only embracing should they feel inspired to do so by the spectacular scenery. Walking their way up towards the valley ridge, they’ll be able to gaze on the Obonai Forest, which is replete with Akita cedar and a variety of other trees that turn into a colorful show by the time autumn comes around.

BEAUTY IN SUSPENSION LOVELY FARE FOR THE CHANGING SEASONS By the time the leaves begin to turn and the temperatures start to drop, another natural turn of events begins to happen: people start to get hungry after the long, energy-draining summer. There’s actually a phrase for it: shokuyoku no aki (the appetite that comes with autumn). For visitors to the area around Dakigaeri Valley, one way to satisfy this hunger is by digging into a hearty serving of yama no imo nabe, the Semboku version of Japan’s ubiquitous hotpot. The starring ingredient of this local dish is Japanese yam, which imparts a unique flavor to this meal that is a perfect complement to the cooling weather.

Continuing along the promenade, visitors to the area will come across a red span that brings distinctive lines of color to the area. Built in 1926, the Kami Iwahashi is the oldest suspension bridge in the prefecture, and adds an aesthetic man-made touch to the natural surroundings. Whether visitors are standing on the bridge

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VISITORS WILL BE TREATED TO A VISTA THAT THEY WON’T SOON FORGET

itself or looking up at the landscape with the crimson lines of the Kami Iwahashi crossing the scene – particularly striking against a clear blue sky – they will be treated to a vista that they won’t soon forget. The star of all of the views, of course, are the jewel-like waters of the streams that make their way through the valley – they get their particularly lustrous hues from the light that passes through the shallow water and reflects off the white rock of the stream beds.

MISTS OF INCENSE After passing by the Kami Iwahashi, walkers will come across another of the area’s celebrated spots: an area called Seiganji. This part of the river valley is laden with the mists kicked up from the fast-moving flow as it drops into a waterfall. Recognizing a similarity between the river’s mist and the clouds of incense that one might find at the altar of a Buddhist temple, locals gave the place a temple’s name. Continuing along, the waterfall can be seen from several different perspectives, each one more impressive than the next. More adventurous explorers can make their way through a tunnel that affords an even more impressive view of the waterfall at the other end.

TRAVEL GUIDE: AKITA [ PROMOTION ]

Bathing Beauties The ryokan of Nyuto Onsen Village offer seven sublime ways to savor the hot spring experience

kita’s mineral-rich water is said to be one of the reasons that the women of the prefecture are renowned for their attractiveness: and what better way to enjoy this natural beauty secret than the soothing steam of an onsen? The entire area is known for its plentiful hot springs, but perhaps one of the most pleasant places to soak it up is Nyuto Onsen Village, just northeast of Lake Tazawa in Akita’s Semboku City. The village includes seven different ryokan: Tsurunoyu, which has been in operation for more than 300 years; Kuroyu, where you can sample boiled eggs whose shells have turned black in the area’s sulphurous waters; Taenoyu, with its “infinity pool” rotemburo; Ganiba, whose outdoor baths offer stunning and secluded views; Ogama, a former schoolhouse with easy access to hiking trails and ski slopes; Magoroku, which features a

small collection of onsen huts; and Kyukamura, the most modern of the Village’s inns. The various ryokan in the Village also feature different mineral water varieties, each with their own distinct color, and reputed health benefits. All of these hot spring inns offer the chance to appreciate Akita’s rustic hospitality and hearty cuisine, for a long weekend or taking the time to truly savor the onsen experience over an even longer break. Traditionally, fishermen and farmers would spend their off seasons at the onsens to heal up for the work to come. This practice was known as toji – literally, “hot spring cure,” and some of the Village’s ryokan still offer this opportunity. However long your stay, the natural surroundings of the Nyuto Onsen Village make for the ultimate onsen experience: sitting in a rotemburo (outdoor bath) while you gaze out at the mountainous scenery. This might mean looking out at the freshly sprouted, or thickly lush, greenery of spring and summer, admiring autumn’s fall foliage, or savoring the magical experience of looking out over a snow-draped landscape from the warmth of a steaming hot spring bath. When weather permits, guests can put on their yukata and stroll on paths through forests of buna – Japanese beech. Beauty and health trends come and go, but the experience that can be savored at the Nyuto Onsen Village is timeless, traditional, and unforgettable.

You might not be able to stay at each of Nyuto Onsen Village’s seven ryokan, but you can still experience the unique pleasures of each location’s hot spring baths. Nyuto Onsen Village offers a ¥1,800 pass that allows holders to visit all seven onsens during their stay. A charmingly decorated bus transports guests as they make their way from one steamingly comfortable bath to the next.

To soak up more information about Nyuto Onsen Village, visit www.nyuto-onsenkyo.com

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BE I N S P I R E D September is when things slowly start to change in Tokyo. Let us be your guide to the art world – where you can stroll alongside naked visitors to one of Tokyo’s major museums and see dozens of wonders from the plant kingdom – and to what’s on around town: everything from nights of fashion to a celebration of spicy cuisine. T OKYO WE E KE N DE R | S E PTE M B E R 2 0 1 6 | 4 1

ART & BOOKS

KI S H I N SH I NOYA MA – “ L A MA I S ON D E S RE N D E Z-VOU S” Ever been to a museum where all of the photographs on display were taken at the museum where they were being exhibited – and all of the people in the pictures are naked? We’re betting that you haven’t, and neither have we. Shinoyama, a photographer who has been practicing his craft for more than 50 years, uses a collection of 60 photographs to draw viewers into a fantasy world that turns the Hara Museum into “a riotous party, a one-time affair lasting a little more than four months.” Hara Museum of Contemporary Art Until January 9, 2017 www.haramuseum.or.jp

THE ART WORLD

OU R PIC K O F T H E C I T Y’S B ES T EXHI B I T I ONS Compiled by Alec Jordan

MAS KS Today, you only need to look as far as Snapchat to recognize the ease – and appeal – of putting on a disguise, but mask-wearing goes back thousands of years and can be found in almost every culture around the world. This exhibition asks the question – “what do masks mean in the 21st century?” – and displays the multimedia responses of 26 underground artists from seven different Asian countries. The exhibition is curated by the Singaporean art collective Kult, which has been promoting contemporary art and artists around Asia for nearly a decade. Diesel Art Gallery Until November 11 www.diesel.co.jp/art/en/masks

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TSUCHIYA Yoshimasa, Phoenix, 2016, Collection of the artist, Photo: TAKENOUCHI Hiroyuki

B O O KS

DIALOGUE WITH TREES – FIVE STORIES OF REBIRTH AND RENEWAL Five contemporary Japanese artists who work with wood are the focus of the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum’s 90th anniversary exhibit. Collectively, these artists challenge the conventions of what is possible with this living medium – works on display run from massive installations to smaller, more intimate pieces, all of which explore themes of birth, death, and the endless cycles that motivate everything that happens in between. Held five years after the tragic events of 3/11, the exhibit also features poignant images of regrowth in the wake of destruction. Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum Until October 2 www.tobikan.jp/en It’s not often you meet a teenager who has written and illustrated a book based on her travels. Christine Mari Inzer, whose father is American and mother is Japanese, was just 15 when she traveled solo from America to Tokyo to “get in touch with her roots.” While here, she created “Diary of a Tokyo Teen,” which is brimming with humorous insight into Japanese culture. Originally self-published, the book has since been picked up by Tuttle Publishing, and will be available in Japan from September 28. We asked Inzer, now 19, a couple of questions about the book.

WHAT WAS YOUR FAVORITE PART OF THE JOURNEY? My favorite part of the holiday in Japan was the trip I made to Kyoto with my grandmother, Baba. But one of my favorite parts of making the book has to be the pages about Japanese fashion. I’ve always admired how Japanese fashion is more focused on expressing oneself as opposed to following trends.

ULT RA PL A N TS EX H I B I T 2 0 1 6 – S E I J U N NI S H IH ATA’S E NC H A N T I N G PL ANT L I FE Nishihata, a fifth generation flower and plant supplier, has traveled around the world and collected thousands of plants. They’re on display at this fascinating exhibit, which features the bizarre flora placed in custom made ceramic vessels that are often as impressive as the plants they contain. It’s a pleasant way to see some green amidst the urban jungle, and some of the items are for sale, so if you’re on the lookout for an eye-catching balcony plant or a table centerpiece, this just might be your place. Pola Museum Annex Until September 25 www.po-holdings.co.jp/m-annex

WHAT HAS SURPRISED YOU ABOUT THE EXPERIENCE OF PUBLISHING YOUR BOOK? It started out as a personal project, so it never crossed my mind that this was going to be read around the world. I think this mindset allowed me to create something deeply personal. However, a lot of readers are finding that the book reminds them of their own experiences in Japan or of traveling in general, and that makes me very happy.

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN SEPTEMBER 1 SEP 1-19

2 SEP 10

GEKIKARA GOURMET FESTIVAL Try the hottest food from around the world. The festival is presented in three rounds, each including a different selection of meals. Where: Okubo Park How much: Free More info: gekikara-gourmet.com

5 SEP 17

VOGUE FASHION NIGHT OUT Hundreds of stores are participating in this year’s event. Look out for charity goods and get an original badge from the Vogue booth to support earthquake relief. Where: Around Omotesando How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com

6 SEP 15-17

NIHON BUYOH This is a rare opportunity to see Keika Wakayagi, one of the best-known modern practitioners of the classical and theatrical Japanese dance, Nihon Buyoh, perform on the prestigious stage of the National Theatre of Japan. Where: National Theatre of Japan How much: ¥7,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com

QUILT & STITCH SHOW 2016 A great chance for all crafty types to get their hands on both supplies and finished pieces. Quilt & Stitch also offers exhibits, demonstrations and lectures. Apply in advance for workshops. Where: Tokyo Big Sight How much: ¥500-¥1,600 More info: tokyoweekender.com

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3 SEP 16-19, 22-25 MOËT MIDPARK CINEMA Sip on a glass of Moët while enjoying a movie on Tokyo Midtown’s open-air lawn. Arrive early to catch a seat, as space is limited to 100 people. Where: Tokyo Midtown How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com

7 SEP 1-30 EDO GOLDFISH WONDERLAND Sumida Aquarium turns into an “Edo-quarium” featuring 31 tanks of beautiful goldfish, Edo-style windchimes, fish-shaped lanterns, and goldfish-themed cocktails and desserts. Where: Sumida Aquarium How much: ¥600-¥2,500 More info: tokyoweekender.com

4 SEP 10-11 ARABIAN FESTIVAL Enjoy the beauty of the Middle East during the Arabian Festival held in Yoyogi Park. Held in Japan for the first time this year, this festival aims to introduce Arabian culture from Egypt to Morocco. Where: Yoyogi Park How much: Free More info: arafes.jp

8 SEP 16-19 TOKYO ART BOOK FAIR Over 300 exhibitors will be selling independent published books, zines and prints during this four-day event, which also includes special talks, workshops and exhibitions. Where: Tohoku University of Art and Design Gaien Campus How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com

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9 SEP 11 DOODU BOY Hilarious and heartbreaking, this one-man play is written and performed by Stefhen Bryan, who tells his story about growing up in the Jamaican ghetto, escaping to America, and his rebirth in Japan. Where: Noutan Art Space How much: ¥3,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com

11 SEP 1-26 MOYOCO ANNO: STRIP! A retrospective of the career of manga artist and writer Moyoco Anno who is best-known for titles such as “Sugar Sugar Rune” and “Happy Mania.” Many of her works have been adapted into anime. Where: Parco Museum How much: ¥500 More info: tokyoweekender.com

10 SEP 12-OCT 1 KAWAII WORLD OF LADYBEARD Naoko Tachibana has captured the unique style of Australian pro wrestler, presenter, metal singer and former front man of pop idol group Ladybaby in her striking photographs. Where: Vanilla Gallery How much: ¥500 More info: tokyoweekender.com

12 SEP 1-30 MATCHA BEER GARDEN Leave it to Japan to combine green tea with beer and make it the drink of the summer. Enjoy the allyou-can-drink course from 5:30pm to 11pm, even if just for the social media brownie points. Where: Green Tea Restaurant How much: ¥3,800 More info: tokyoweekender.com

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People, Parties, Places TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY

t’s been a long time since I saw my first Broadway musical. It was at the Hollywood Bowl where one of many aunts took me to see “Finian’s Rainbow.” The star Ella Logan was fantastic, and the show was great. I really got hooked on musicals that night and have had the opportunity to see just about every hit musical there’s been over the years. When I was pretty much running The Lex Disco in Roppongi for 32 years, I was able to host a lot of parties for the casts of most of the shows and got to know a lot of great Broadway stars. Talk about talent and energy. Sadly, the Broadway shows coming to Japan slowed down for a while, but I’m happy to see that with all the new venues opening, there seem to be more and more shows coming in all the time. Thanks to friends at Udo Artists, I recently saw one of my alltime favorites, Sarah Brightman, at the International Forum. Her guest performers, the orchestra, the sets, lighting and her performance (a voice from heaven!) all added up to an evening of magnificent entertainment. The highlight of the program was her duet with Italian tenor Mario Frangoulis singing “Phantom of the Opera,” which truly deserved the full house’s long and loud standing ovation that it received. It was a different beat on August 23 when I went to watch “Delicious Musical Bibap.” The Korean show has been running for several years in Seoul and is still going strong. Soka Gakkai’s Min-On Concert Association brought the show here in late August. I’ll have photos of the cast later. There’s quite a full schedule of events for the rest of the year. These include “Musical Songs and Pop Galore!” This will star Hungarian actor/ singer Mate Kamaras who has many Bill and the fabulous Cyndi Lauper fans here, and several other popular artists. Show dates are September 13, 14 and 15 at Sogetsu Kaikan. From September 14 through 25, there’s a musical with an international cast titled “Sleeping Beauty in the Forest” at the Theatre Orb, and if you like flamenco, Antonio Gades – one of the best – will bring his company to Bunkamura on September 17, 18 and 19. There will be a different program each night: “Carmen,” “Bodas de Sangre,” and “Suite Flamenco.” Other happenings include a cinema music concert featuring an international cast at Theatre Orb on September 9, 10 and 11, and a group of local talent in Tokyo International Players’ production of “Macbeth” from October 13 to 16 at Theater Sun Mall in Shinjuku.

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Showbiz luminaries Harvey Fierstein, Jerry Mitchell and Cyndi Lauper, along with the international cast of the award-winning musical “Kinky Boots” will be here to perform the popular show from October 5 to 30 at Theatre Orb. I got to know Cyndi – a nice, talented and fun lady – several years ago when, along with local superstar Steven Haynes, we were able to find ten international and Japanese transvestites to back her up when she sang her big hit “Girls Just Want to Have Fun” on a Japanese TV station’s big New Year show. That, my friends, was a real experience. “Rent,” another award-winning Broadway show, will celebrate its 20th anniversary tour in Japan from December 15 through 31 at the International Forum. Ticket prices for most of the shows are about the same prices you’d pay on Broadway or at London’s West End. In addition to all this, there’s theater, kabuki, noh, classical concerts, pop concerts, and local productions of Japanese, and foreign plays and musicals. I’m well aware how lucky I am to be able to see and do so much, but still find it difficult to understand when friends tell me there’s nothing to do in Tokyo. I just read that because of construction and preparation for the Olympics, the city has loosened up on regulation and many parks are now allowing more and more flea markets, festivals, and other events, especially on holidays and weekends. This is especially true in Yoyogi Park where I recently went to a great Nepal/Asia Festival one week, and a really fun all-Japan breakdancing performance the next. Hibiya Park also had the huge Philippine Festival recently. The food is good and cheap, and the entertainment is good and free – check them out. Still on Tokyo, our sincerest congratulations to one of the best cities in the world’s new governor, Yuriko Koike. Thanks to writing this column for so many years, I’ve gotten to know this exceptional lady quite well. She’s super intelligent, very international, chic, and honest. Her background includes attending a university in Egypt where she learned fluent Arabic, traveling all over the world, and amassing a great deal of knowledge and leadership experience, including a brief stint as Japan’s first female Minister of Defense. In talking to her at parties, I’ve always found her very knowledgeable, and very easy to talk to. I certainly feel her many supporters made a wise decision and wish her a long, happy and successful term as our new mayor.

ANDAZ HOTEL – SAYONARA ARNAUD, WELCOME ROSS 1. Coca Cola’s Japan Pres. Tim Brett and his wife Sarah, Andaz’s food/beverage director Alistair Minty 2. Yuko Tadano, Mori Art Museum Pres. Yoshiko Mori, Hyatt Hotels Japan senior advisor Chika Koga 3. New Andaz Tokyo GM Ross Cooper, Clara Bodin, Hyatt Group’s GM – UK and Ireland – Arnaud de Saint-Exupery 4. Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s GM Steve Dewire, his wife Barbara 5. Park Hyatt GM Herve Mazella, F.J.’s Sebastian Lemoine, Nicola Sitson, LVMH Pres. Emmanuel Prat

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ITALIAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION

6. Emile and Sharon Yamano, their daughter Nina, Buddhist monk Shimoyama-san 7. Top caterer Giorgio Matera and chef Stefano Fastro 8. Italian Amb. Domenico Giorgi, German Amb. Hans Carl von Werthern (r) and his wife Elizabeth (center) 9. Fiat Pres. Japan Tiziana Alamprese and friend 10. Italian Defense Attache Colonel Enzo Gasparini Casari, noted film director Masato Harada (r) and his wife, Mizuho Fukuda (center) 11. Polish Amb. Cyryl Kozaczewski, Kumiko Meric (Turkey) Paul Noritaka Tange, Kyoko Spector 12. GAGA Communications’ Tom Yoda and Domenico Giorgi

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SAYING FAREWELL TO THE LOPEZES 1. Lilo Maruyama, Mary Katayama, Reiko Szerdahelyi (Hungary), the hostess of the reception, Maria Teresa Lopez, Cristina Escala (Peru), Ayama Diaz (Panama), Kyoko Spector 2. Philippines minister Angelica Escalona, Chamaine Torees (Labor Asst) 3. Iceland Amb. Hannes – Heimisson, Slovenia Amb. Simona Leskova, Chief of protocol Amb. Kaoru Shimazaki, Pakistan Amb. Farukh Amil 4. Carmen Clark, Roberta Ireton, Charo and Bill Ireton 5. Ceremony Pres. Tsukasa Shiga, Russian Amb. Evgeny Afanasiev, Kyoko Spector, Olga Afanasiev (Russia), Lilo Maruyama 6. Edo Wonderland’s Planning Michael No and CEO/ Pres. Ryoichi Yuki, Bill Ireton, Shiga

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MIN-ON’S BAYANIHAN DANCE EVENT 7. New Thai Amb. (r) and Mrs. Bansarn Bunnag (l), H.I.H Princess Takamado 8. Maria Teresa Lopez, H.I.H. Princess Takamado, new Myanmar Amb. and Mrs. U. ThurainYhant Zin 9. Philippines Amb. Manuel Lopez, Princess Takamado, Maria Teresa, Min-On Pres. Hiroyasu Kobayashi, Bayanihan dance group members 10. Peruvian Amb. Elard Escala, his wife Cristina, Reiko Szerdahelyi (now posted in Singapore)

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Fastest man in the world Usain Bolt, Bill, and former Jamaican Ambassador Claudia Barnes

THE GIORGIS’ AWESOME CELEBRATION Our Italian friends, Ambassador Domenico Giorgi and his wife Rita, have one of the most beautiful residences and gardens in Tokyo. As always, they made the Italian National Day reception – which they host at their home – an awesome evening in every way, and it was really nice seeing so many good friends again. I especially enjoyed chatting with architect Paul Noritaka Tange (the son of the late great architect Kenzo Tange), as well as with one of Japan’s top film directors Masato Harada and his wife Mizuho Fukuda. It was nice seeing Giorgio Matera, one of Italy’s top caterers who’s based in Japan, and who did the catering for the celebration. Tokyo has a huge variety of top Italian restaurants and he had a dozen or so chefs from what he, the ambassador, and Rita consider the city’s best restaurants prepare their most popular dishes. The buffets on offer in both the dining room and the white tents in the garden were excellent, and the ambiance of the special evening couldn’t have been better. The evening’s music, performed by a quartet from the Sendai Junior Orchestra was perfect for the occasion.

THE LOPEZES’ NATIONAL DAY AT IMPERIAL Manuel Lopez, the former Ambassador of the Philippines to Japan, finished the two years that he promised his friend President Aquino he would serve here. He’s one of his country’s top businessmen – he owns real estate, a TV station, a big publishing company, and more. Manuel and his dynamic wife Maria Teresa did so many things to further Japan-Philippines relations in the all-too-short time they were here. They made so many friends from all walks of life for both their wonderful country and themselves, so they really had a full schedule of special events before they left Japan. These included a Min-On concert performance by the Filipino Bayanihan National Folk Dance Company and after party where HIH Princess Takamado was a special guest, a big colorful Filipino festival at Hibiya Park and the 118th Independence Day of the Philippines, and the celebration of the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations with Japan at the Imperial Hotel, as well as many sayonara breakfasts, lunches, and dinners hosted by Japanese friends and other diplomats. The national day party at the Imperial was first class all the way. It was wall to wall people there to say sayonara, thank the Lopezes for their friendship, and wish them all the best back home. The Philippine Festival at Hibiya Park was packed with well-wishers as well. It was a lively, colorful, event-packed two days with beauty contests, folk dance competitions, a variety of entertainment from many of the Philippines’ top entertainers, as well as Japanese drum groups. Congratulations to Ambassador and Mrs. Lopez, and our many Filipino friends who worked so hard to make it the huge success that it was.

SAYONARA ARNAUD, WELCOME ROSS – ANDAZ TOKYO HOTEL It was an awesome evening in every way at the Hyatt Group’s beautiful Andaz Tokyo Hotel in Toranomon. The occasion was a sayonara for the hotel’s GM, Arnaud de Saint-Exupery,

who had been at the Andaz since its opening two years ago and was promoted to area VP for the Hyatt Group in the UK and Ireland. Hotel top execs – like diplomats – seem to move around a lot. The beautiful evening event was also to welcome back long-time friend Ross Cooper, whom I first got to know when he was the executive assistant food and beverage manager at one of everyone’s favorite hotels, the Grand Hyatt in Tokyo. After that he was transferred to the Grand Hyatt in Shenzhen, China, was there until 2014, and then took over as GM at the Hyatt in Busan, Korea, before returning to Tokyo. The venue that evening was the rooftop terrace, bar and studio – all on the 52nd floor. Hyatt Hotels always go all out to make all of their functions special, and the evening event with a lot of open space and panoramic views was all that and more. The buffet was excellent with a big selection of beautifully prepared and presented international favorites. The many guests included familiar faces from the arts, fashion, and music worlds, as well as both Japanese and international business leaders. These included Yoshiko Mori, who’s chairperson of the Mori Art Museum, Prime Minister Abe’s mother, LVMH Japan president Emmanuel Prat, Dewi Sukarno, and Hyatt’s senior advisor Chika Koga, Park Hyatt’s relatively new GM Herve Mazella, and the Grand Hyatt’s Steve Dewire and his wife Barbara. It was also nice meeting Coca-Cola Japan’s new president Tim Brett and his wife Sarah. Coke’s beautiful new building in Shibuya will be opening soon. Our congratulations. And in closing, congratulations to the city of Rio, the country of Brazil, and the International Olympic Committee for their brilliant work putting on the 2016 Olympics. A special kudos to all the competitors and medalists, including the speedy Usain Bolt, who was kind enough to stay still and have his picture taken with me and former Jamaican Ambassador Claudia Barnes.

[ SPONSOR ED C ONTENT ]

Bill Ireton, top British DJ Guy Perryman, Thomas Ireton

Tsukasa Shiga, Natsuo Yamaguchi, head of the Komeito party

Konishiki and ukulele whiz Tomoki Sato at Oakwood

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BACK IN THE DAY: 1970 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1970! You can read the rest of this issue (No.32 1970) and view Weekenderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 46-year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/

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