Tokyo Weekender - December 2016

DECEMBER 2016

Japan’s number one English language magazine

2016’S STRANGER THINGS PLUS: Exclusive Interview with Ryu Murakami, 31 Christmas Gift Ideas, and the Happy Bees on Ginza's Rooftops

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in-depth

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS

COFFEE-BREAK READS

8 AREA GUIDE: GINZA

19 COVER FEATURE: 2016’S STRANGER THINGS

Although it caters to those living in the lap of luxury, Ginza’s cultural roots suggest there’s more to it than meets the eye.

10 STYLE Gear up for 2016’s final countdown with our selection of holiday season outfits and accessories.

12 BEAUTY How to cope with dry winter skin in Tokyo?

We’ve found five facial oils and serums that’ll solve all your problems.

14 TRENDS If you haven’t caught on to the trend yet, in Japan decadent Christmas cakes are a thing.

Here’s where to get ’em.

We look back at the (mostly unbelievable) headlines that got us talking this year.

24 A CONVERSATION WITH RYU MURAKAMI An exclusive interview with one of Japan’s most acclaimed and controversial authors.

28 HOW TOKYO’S ROOFTOP BEES ARE THRIVING Did you know there are beehives on Ginza’s rooftops? Plus, how you can help the bees.

30 THE PROBLEM WITH JAPANESE CINEMA We chat with film director Hirokazu Koreeda about the stagnating industry.

32 ALL YOU WANT FOR CHRISTMAS Still need to do some last-minute shopping?

We’ve got six pages of unique gift ideas for the whole family.

guide CULTURE ROUNDUP 39 ART & MUSIC Art for deep thinkers, and music inspired by the poetry of Nobel laureates.

42 AGENDA Romantic illuminations, a swanky New Year’s Eve party, and a festival to honor the famed 47 Ronin.

46 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES An evening with former sumo champ Konishiki, remembering a few great leaders, and looking forward to Broadway show “Rent.”

DECEMBER 2016

radar

32

DECEMBER 2016 Publisher

ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President

Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producers

Asi Rinestine Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Senior Editor

Annemarie Luck Alec Jordan

Art Director Features Writer Contributors

Sales Director Sales Executives

Media Strategist Media Consultant Media Relations Media Producers

Liam Ramshaw Matthew Hernon Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi Bill Hersey Dorothee Erle Bunny Bissoux Takaaki Murai Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Yu Suzuki Mandy Lynn Mary Rudow Junko Shimaya Yumi Idomoto Claudia Sun

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 (03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) editor@tokyoweekender.com To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: customer-support@tokyoweekender.com For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: sales@tokyoweekender.com 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03)6863-3096 メール：sales@tokyoweekender.com Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

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@bapawn: So, we’ve mentioned Stranger Things a few times this issue, but I’m embarrassed to admit that I haven’t seen an episode yet! Annemarie, you’re a fan, right? @mizrama: Yes, I’m definitely a fan. For me, it’s probably got more to do with the 80s nostalgia rather than the sci-fi element, but either way the show is probably one of the better stranger things that have happened this year. What’s your favorite odd headline of 2016? @bapawn: You know, I’m not ashamed to admit that I like Piko Taro and his PPAP dance [page 20]. I’ve always been a sucker for viral videos, and he seems to really hit a lot of the magic buttons – the goofy visual appeal, the surprisingly good dance moves, and the absurdity of skewering fruits with a pen. @mizrama: It’s weird how something as simple as this video can inspire such divided, heated emotions in people. But I guess it’s a better premise than some of the more harrowing events we’ve had to deal with

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this year. I read that 2016 is now officially one of the worst years in history (although 1914 and 1945 were reportedly worse). @bapawn: There is a silver lining, though. The bees in Ginza are thriving, aren’t they? @mizrama: They are indeed happy up there in their rooftop hives [page 28]. Also, Tokyo elected its first female governor, Yuriko Koike – that was a great moment for women in Japan. @bapawn: That was a great moment in Japanese politics, I think. It’s a pity that Hillary Clinton couldn’t break through that glass ceiling. Now, as happy as I am to bid 2016 farewell, I’m worried about the years to come under my country’s new President Elect... @mizrama: I’m just glad my country’s president is out of the spotlight for once. @bapawn: Who knows? Maybe Jacob Zuma could give Trump an ethics seminar.

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WH AT ’ S O N O U R RA DA R TH I S MONTH . . .

The many faces of Ginza, decadent cakes for Christmas, and your New Year’s Eve outfit sorted.

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CULTURE CLUB When you’re done window shopping around the pedestrian heaven of Chuo Dori, you may want to take in some culture. Luckily, Ginza is home to dozens of art galleries. From Tokyo Gallery + BTAP to Creation Gallery G8, Shiseido Gallery, and Gallery Koyanagi, there’s plenty to take in. For something a bit more dramatic, Ginza also boasts Kabuki-za, the principal theater for viewing traditional kabuki dramas. The building was recently rebuilt, addressing concerns about its structural integrity and earthquake resistance.

Performances are held daily and tickets may be purchased for individual acts or entire plays. Finally, kids of all ages are fond of the Tokyo Metropolitan Police Museum, where visitors can try their hand at driving a patrol car simulator.

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Tokyo’s “bricktown” became a model of modernization after the area’s mostly wooden buildings burned down in an 1872 fire. Although the neighborhood has gone through several facelifts since then, the curved, art deco building that houses upscale department store Wako remains Ginza’s best-known landmark, topped by its signature clock tower. Across the street is another luxury department store, Mitsukoshi, with its bronze lion at the entrance serving as a popular meeting spot. Other major retailers in the area are Japanese fashion-oriented Matsuya, a branch of the French department store Printemps, Marronnier Gate with its six-floor-high Tokyu Hands, and newcomer Tokyu Plaza.

THROUGH THE VIEWFINDER If you’ve got an eye for photography, Ginza is one of the best places in Tokyo for shutterbugs. For new gear, Bic Camera in Yurakucho has a huge selection from all major brands.

Nearby, the Sony Building houses the electronic giant’s latest imaging gadgets across spacious showrooms. Facing the Wako department store, Ricoh Imaging Square contains not only Ricoh and Pentax headquarters, but also a gallery and camera museum. If you’ve got major money to burn, the Leica Ginza Salon is the luxury brand’s flagship Tokyo boutique. For used gear, Katsumido is the spot for mint vintage rangefinders, while Sankyo carries tons of twin-lens reflex cameras. Nikon House and consignment store Lemon are also worth a visit.

SERVED NEAT High-end cocktails are the perfect cap on a day of shopping, and Ginza has plenty of spots where you can indulge. Stop by Tender to get a classic drink mixed by Mr. Hard Shake himself, Kazuo Ueda, Japan’s top bartender. For more experimental and contemporary drinks, Bar Orchard Ginza uses liquid nitrogen to freeze fresh, seasonal fruits in their boozy concoctions. Lupin started as a coffee house in 1928, serves alcohol and has been a favorite hangout of Tokyo’s literary elite for generations.

For beer, Lion Beer Hall replicates the look and feel of a 1930s Bavarian brewhouse. Those looking for a cheap drink after work should head to casual meeting spot Three Hundred Bar 5-Chome before hitting the town for dinner.

RICH MEALS Ginza has had its share of upscale restaurants through the years, and many are still serving up their signature dishes long after fading from flavor-of-the-week status. Shiseido Parlour opened in 1920 and helped popularize omurice, epitomized by their abalone and lobster-topped version. Ten-ichi offers full-course tempura meals accompanied by sashimi. Ginza Swiss claims to have invented katsu curry, and their precise execution of the dish is certainly undisputed. Of course, Sukiyabashi Jiro deserves a mention for sushi, but don’t overlook Sushi Aoki if you can’t get a reservation. For a more casual meal, Yamagatada has tasty home-made soba noodles, and heck, you can even stop by Hooters for chicken wings.

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STYLE

BURBERRY MINI BEAUTY BOX Glam it up with this limited edition festive beauty kit from British brand Burberry. The box contains mini versions of everything you need to get ready to celebrate, and you can conveniently stash it away in your handbag.

Elongate your lashes with the jet black mascara, which comes with an hourglass-shaped brush to define each lash, apply a coat or two of the rich burgundy lipstick, hydrate and illuminate with the lightweight, slightly tinted fluid, and polish the look with the satin-smooth eyeshadow. burberry.com

The Final Countdown

HO LIDAY S EAS O N CALLS FOR A COUP LE OF CHOICE P IE CE S FO R THO S E INTIM ATE DINNERS OR CHIC PARTIES – O R EVE N JUS T FO R A BIT OF END- OF- YEAR SPOILING Compiled by Vivian Morelli

ALAÏA HEELS It’s December and baby it’s cold outside, but don’t let the frosty temperatures keep you from sporting those fierce sandals by the master of all things fashion, Azzedine Alaïa. Crafted from Italian plum suede and adorned with metallic studs, these shoes feature button-like straps that mimic the label’s signature laser-cut patterns. Wear them to a holiday celebration with a chic midi dress, or pair them with jeans and a silk blouse. Reminder: bring a pair of wool socks to change into as soon as you leave the party... alaia.fr

ACNE STUDIOS SWEATER This sweater is perfect for when you want to appear bright and cheery for seasonal festivities, while keeping it on the classy side. In other words, this jumper is the fancy version of the infamous “Christmas sweater,” minus the tacky aspect. You can also be sure it’ll keep you warm as the Scandinavians do know a thing or two about cold weather. Knitted from Shetland wool, it boasts bold red and navy stripes, and can be worn with jeans or slim-cut trousers. acnestudios.com

TURNBULL & ASSER BOW TIE Why would you wear a basic black bow tie when you can sport this polka dot version? You will find plenty of occasions to wear this Turnbull & Asser creation, especially as December rolls around with its plethora of festive events. Made in England from lustrous silk, and woven with a delicate, barely there chevron motif, this tie is the only accessory you’ll need this season. And in case you’re concerned about how to make the perfect bow, don’t sweat: it comes pre-tied so you can save yourself a YouTube tutorial search. turnbullandasser.co.uk

OSCAR DE LA RENTA DRESS Stop looking for the perfect party dress, because this is it. This number will take you to cocktail parties, end-of-year dinners, elegant soirées and even date nights. While the metallic-woven jacquard is ideal for all holiday-related festivities, you’ll surely find excuses to wear and re-wear this dress throughout the year.

Pair it with sky-high heels and shimmery tights, or layer it over a black blouse to tone it down. oscardelarenta.com

TOM FORD BRIEFCASE Searching for a gift, or looking for a little treat to cheer yourself up this holiday season?

Look no further, as this black alligator briefcase is the item that is missing from your wardrobe. Whether you want to be the best-dressed at the office or just spruce up your workwear collection, this practical yet stylish bag is the ideal place to store your laptop and important documents. This Italian-made number comes with an oversized gold zip, which will make it stand out amongst a sea of monotonous black briefcases on any given crowded train. tomford.com

TRE ND S

S A M T S I

R H C OR

, AND S L E T P HO O T S ’ NER YO G I K S O E T AKE D F RO M C S M T A O UST k C Y TRE R A U Y X LU S B d by Annemarie Luc N E E O I R T ile TH Comp REA C E U THE RITZ-CARLTON UNIQ

F E CAK

T H E H OT E L A five-star urban oasis in Tokyo Midtown, The Ritz-Carlton is of course revered for its opulence. But that doesn’t mean they don’t cater to families with young kids – they even offer an inroom camping experience called “The Ritz Kids Night Safari.”

T H E CH RIS T MAS CAKE S Talk about layers of dreamy deliciousness! There are four versions to try, each of which include four to six different layers. The Caramelia Pineapple Chestnut cake (¥6,400), for example, features gianduja-guanaja glaze and caramelia mousse wrapped around pineapple confit and chestnut cremeux, on top of chestnut frangipane and almond shortbread.

(Cake orders can be placed in advance from The Ritz-Carlton Café & Deli by calling 036434-8711 before December 22.)

AD D E D B ON U S Staying over for New Year’s Eve? Join the Countdown Party 2017 on December 31 at the Lobby Lounge & Bar. There’ll be live music and free-flowing champagne.

9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku. www.ritzcarlton.com

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KEIO PLAZA HOTEL TOKYO T HE HOT E L This luxury hotel is in the center of Shinjuku and has a knack for combining Japanese traditions with popular culture into its numerous special offers. It boasts over 20 restaurants and bars, where you can enjoy, for example, an “Alice in Wonderland”-themed sweets buffet (until January 31). They even have two original hotel rooms decorated with the theme of Hello Kitty.

T HE C H RIS T MAS CAKE S For this year’s festive season, Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo is unveiling a Snow White Christmas cake collection, on sale from December 19-25. Choose from cakes such as “The Magic Mirror” (¥4,500), “The Forest of the Dwarfs” (¥4,500), and “The Magical Princess” (¥4,500).

A DDED B ON U S Love ballet and cake? The “Cinderella and a Night of Magic, Ballet and Dining” special package lets you enjoy a special ballet performance of Cinderella at the New National Theatre Tokyo, before tucking into dinner and themed holiday cakes.

2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. keioplaza.com

IF YOU PREFER A CUSTOM CAKE… RAINDROP SWEETS T HE S TORY For those looking for a personal touch for their Christmas cakes, Reina Reyes’ unique creations will please you to no end. Reyes, who was born in Tokyo but grew up in Los Angeles, founded Raindrop Sweets just last year. “I have always had a passion for art and design, and I’ve also always been fascinated by cake decorating shows,” she tells Weekender. “In September 2015, I decided to make my mother a birthday cake; it was a simple vanilla buttercream cake with flowers made of frosting. I was surprised to get an outpouring of interest when I posted a photo on social media. The messages soon turned into orders – and the rest is history!”

T H E H OT E L Besides offering a dose of nostalgia for fans of Lost in Translation, Park Hyatt Tokyo also affords a view of Mt. Fuji (when she’s not feeling shy), and some of the finest fine dining in the city.

T HE CAK E S Let your imagination

T H E CH R IS T MAS CAKE S But let’s

run wild as Reyes can make pretty much anything you ask for, from basic Christmas-themed cupcakes to a “dinosaur-on-a-shinkansen cake.”

When coming up with unique designs, she says she finds inspiration in many different places from window displays to magazine covers.

HOW TO OR D E R All the cakes are custom made so Reyes asks for at least two weeks’ notice when placing an order. The price depends on size and design, and delivery within Tokyo is available at an additional cost.

To make an inquiry, email raindropsweetstokyo@gmail.com.

For more information, visit raindropsweets.com

PARK HYATT TOKYO

not waste any more time talking about fine dining when we could instead be salivating over these exquisite-looking treats.

We simply cannot wait to dig into the decadent Bûche Forêt Blanche (¥4,400), with its striking snowy white chocolate glaze, rich mousse filling, and cherry compote center. (Cake orders can be placed in advance from Pastry Boutique by calling 03 5323 3462 before December 21.)

AD D E D B ON U S If you’re looking for the ultimate gift, pick up a Christmas Canape box (¥10,000) from Delicatessen – it includes Pork Rillette, yuzu-flavored smoked salmon, dried fruits and nuts, and a bottle of “R” de Ruinart champagne.

3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. tokyo.park.hyatt.com

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BE AU T Y THE BODY SHOP OILS OF LIFE FACIAL OIL CELVOKE From the founder of Japanese brand F organics comes this new luxury, organic skincare range. Launched in November, it includes a concentrate oil and an intensive serum, which contain one very magical ingredient: swallow’s nest. Although the idea of using bits and pieces from a bird’s nest on your skin might sound odd, the practice has long been revered in Chinese skincare as the saliva produced by male swallows is rich in nutrients and helps to stimulate cell regeneration. Who knew!

Concentrate Oil ¥12,960, Intensive Serum ¥16,200, f-organics.jp

P U L I O

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OSHIMA TSUBAKI OIL Often touted as a Japanese beauty must-have, this is a multipurpose oil that can be used on hair, face and body. It’s 100 percent natural and the main ingredient is oleic acid-rich camellia oil, which seals in moisture and contains antioxidants. Note that it’s quite a heavy oil so those prone to breakouts might find it exacerbates the problem.

From around ¥1,200 on amazon.co.jp, also available at drugstores

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This new offering from The Body Shop is packed with natural oils, including black cumin oil from Egypt, rosehip oil from Chile, and camellia oil from China – all known for their revitalizing and repairing properties to help improve skin radiance and reduce signs of ageing. The Oils of Life range also includes an “essence lotion,” “daily cream,” and “gel cream,” amongst other nourishing products. ¥6,480, www.the-body-shop.co.jp

SOAPTOPIA LA SQUEEZE OIL SLATHER Aside from their catchy catchphrase – “slather after you lather” – what we love most about this lemon and lavenderscented beauty is that we can count nine fruit, nut, and seed oils in its list of ingredients. It’s great for the whole body, but it’s sold in a small bottle too, which is ideal for popping into your handbag for on-the-go touchups (that office aircon is so drying). It’s also “junk-free,” so it’s vegan and environmentally friendly. ¥1,500 (59ml), ¥3,600 (227ml), soaptopia.jp

CLE DE PEAU BEAUTE LE SERUM Promising to “awaken” your skin, this lightweight serum contains several exclusive, nutritious ingredients such as Dermal Motivator (for supporting the effective functioning of skin) and Illuminating Complex (for moisture stabilizing), which are designed to enhance your skin’s own power. It absorbs quickly so you won’t be left with oily skin, and serves as an ideal base for other skincare and makeup products. ¥25,000, www.cledepeau-beaute.com

BUDDHI Launched this autumn, BUDDHI is the first product of a new range called Retreat Cosmetics, designed to encourage genuine healthy skin, and harmony of body and mind (in Sanskrit, “buddhi” refers to “the higher mind”). This luxury serum, which doubles up as a massage oil, is available in three scents (Nobara, Igusa, and Mitsu), and contains precious organic, fatty acid-rich prinsepia oil as a main ingredient. ¥19,440 each, principlecosmetics.com

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[ PROMOTION ]

THE LAST SUPPER Bid farewell to 2016 with a heavenly dinner: the New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner on December 31 at Andaz Tavern features perfectly poached turbot, topped with caviar and served on a cauliflower puree. For the first seating at 5:30pm, choose between four or five courses (¥16,000 or ¥18,000), and save space for the chef’s original “Fujisan” dessert – a chocolate and yogurt mousse inspired by Japan’s famed snow-capped peak. The second seating, a New Year’s Eve Countdown Dinner, is at 8:30pm and includes five courses, free-flowing champagne, and a wine pairing for ¥32,000. There’ll also be live entertainment, making this the perfect way to ring in the New Year.

To book, call 03 6830 7739 or email tokyo.restaurant@andaz.com

WARM UP FOR 2017

U O Y W E N , R

A E Y W NE Two special treatments to try this month at AO Spa & Club

TO T WAY N G E AS A R G A E L H E C S RE R AN ER URIOU NG FO I X K U O OFF O L T O A Y L T R E N O R LE E, OU’ H AS P R’S EV HER Y O A T Y E E K Y H O W EW ZT RATE N 2017, ANDA CELEB E E LC O M YOU W

MUSCLE RELEASE AND RELAX MASSAGE December can get a little icy in Tokyo, so it’s the ideal time to go for a hot stone massage. Warm stones are placed on certain parts of your body to help relieve muscle stiffness, improve circulation, and boost sluggish digestion. ¥25,000 for 90 minutes.

SWEET BATH TIME Soak the past year’s troubles away in one of these unique, warming bath blends: cocoa and skimmed milk (only offered during the holiday season); oranges, cloves and cinnamon sticks; or vitamin- and mineral-rich apples. ¥7,500 for 30 minutes (offer only available as a treatment add-on).

A TOAST TO SUSHI CONTACT Andaz Tokyo Toranomon Hills 1-23-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo.

For reservations, call 03 6830 1234 or email tokyo.toranomonhills@andaz.com www.andaztokyo.com

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Free-flowing Ruinart Blanc de Blanc, a masterful menu of traditional Edo-style sushi, and views of Tokyo Tower from the 52nd floor … How can you argue with that for a New Year’s Eve celebration? Rooftop Bar invites you to book one of two seatings (5:30pm or 8:30pm) on December 31 for their special six-course Sushi & Champagne Gala Lounge Menu, inspired by the hotel’s sushi master, Chef Misato Masuda. Each sushi course is paired with the finest champagnes from the House of Ruinart, letting you enjoy, for example, a combination of monkfish canapés and “R” de Ruinart, or the marriage between smoked tuna tartare and Dom de Ruinart 2004. The dinner costs ¥35,000; for reservations call 03 6830 7739 or email tokyo.restaurant@andaz.com

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[ PROMOTION ]

Guilt-Free Pleasures Guzman y Gomez serves up a tasty reminder that healthy food doesn’t need to be boring

M

ost of the time, life is a series of tradeoffs. A surprise late night out with friends on a weekday night may be fun, but you’ll be feeling it in a bad way the next morning.

Splurging on that expensive piece of tech you’ve had an eye on for the last couple of months? You may be looking at a hefty bill on your credit card next month.

So when the chance comes along to really enjoy something and not worry too much about the consequences, you probably shouldn’t turn it down. And when it comes to something that’s as tasty as the food at Guzman y Gomez, you’re probably going to have a hard time turning it down.

The chain that got its start in Sydney, Australia, has made a name for itself thanks to the authentic Tex Mex flavors of its burritos, tacos, and other menu items. Despite Tokyo’s culinary variety, it can be tough to find a place where you can this combination of hearty portions and savory tastes.

Normally, you’d expect to feel some pangs of guilt to go along with this kind of comfort food satisfaction, but thanks to Guzman y Gomez’s dedication to freshness and high-quality ingredients, you can dig in with a clear conscience. That’s because the

team insists upon using only the freshest ingredients. All of their chicken, beef and pork is grilled to order and never stored frozen. (For an even more healthy option, diners can also choose vegetables or fish for their burrito filling.) And, many of the menu items and special ingredients that give Guzman y Gomez’s menu items their uniquely authentic flavor – such as their delightfully spicy pico de gallo and their crispy tortilla chips – are prepared fresh every day and never reused.

This dedication to healthy preparation and mouth-watering results is part of the reason that Guzman y Gomez has been a hit in Australia, and why they’re already proving a huge success here in Tokyo. After opening their second store near Tokyo Disneyland, they opened a third store at Shinagawa atre on November 15, and in December, Guzman y Gomez will be opening a fourth restaurant on the second floor of the Mitsui Sumitomo Fudosan Roppongi Grand Tower.

It’s not too early to start thinking about New Year’s resolutions, and if one of them is to be a little more careful about your diet, Guzman y Gomez’s four locations around town will make it a little easier – and fun – to watch what you eat.

For more information please check out the official website: gyg.jp

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IS 2016 T H E W OR S T Y E A R I N H I S TORY ?

The debate has been settled online: there have been worse years. But since none of us were actually around for the Black Death of 1347, shall we just turn 2016 into pop art and call it a day?

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THESE ARE A FEW OF 2016’S

STRANGER THINGS AFTER A YEAR OF CELEBRITY DEATHS, POLITICAL UPHEAVALS, AND WHAT SEEMED TO BE A GENERAL FEELING OF MALAISE, MOST OF US WON’T SHED A TEAR AS WE SAY SAYONARA TO 2016.

BUT ONE THING’S FOR CERTAIN: IT MADE FOR GREAT HEADLINES. HERE’S A LOOK BACK AT SOME OF THE NEWS WE WERE ALL TALKING ABOUT THIS YEAR – DON’T WORRY, IT’S NOT ALL BLEAK PIKO TARO PENS HIS WAY TO A GUINNESS WORLD RECORD

By Matthew Hernon, our man on the celebrity scene

S

tealing SMAP and AKB48’s thunder, Piko Taro has unquestionably been 2016’s biggest headline-maker in the Japanese entertainment industry. The singer/comic burst onto the scene towards the end of the summer with his annoying but infectiously catchy tune “Pen-Pineapple-Apple-Pen” (“PPAP”) and is now one of the country’s most recognizable faces.

The 45-second track has attracted fans from all over the world and received a ringing endorsement from Justin Bieber. At the time of writing the official video’s been watched on YouTube just under 90 million times, though the total online views of the song have already exceeded 500 million. There are also 70,000+ cover versions and collaborations, including the most recent one with Elmo and Cookie Monster from Sesame Street Japan.

On top of all that the song also entered the Guinness Book of Records as the shortest track to reach the top 100 of the US Billboard Chart, making Piko Taro the first Japanese artist to enter the American charts since Seiko Matsuda back in 1990. Not bad for a strange-looking man in a leopard-print outfit who started the year as a relative unknown.

“Back in January I was performing free live shows at parks,” he tells Weekender. “It’s something I’ve been doing for years. There would usually be an audience of

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around ... zero, although occasionally one guy would turn up videoing me on his phone.

“It was always my dream to be a singer.

As a child, I belted out Stevie Wonder tracks and that continued as I got older. I thought my chance wouldn’t come; then five years ago, I met my producer, who let me perform at a live house in Ebisu in front of 100 people. That became an annual event. I also did charity shows for Tohoku and some comedy gigs.”

The producer he’s talking about is Daimaou Kosaka, the stage name of Kazuhito Kosaka, who happens to be the same guy who plays Piko Taro, but is 10 years younger (yes, it’s quite complicated). His back story for Piko Taro includes a 78-year-old wife whom he

fell for after a chance meeting at a hospital.

There’s also a number of part-time jobs that he manages to do while maintaining his career as a singer.

“I go out in my illuminated yellow jacket and helmet to fix electrical cables,” he says.

“I also sell rhinoceros beetles that I make by adding horns to drone beetles.”

Back in the real world, the Aomori-born Kosaka is a reasonably well-known entertainer who was part of a comic trio, “Bottomless Air-Line,” and the comedy/techno group called “New Bushidou Ravers.” He had minor roles in Mika Ninagawa’s movie “Helter Skelter” and “Crow’s Thumb” alongside Hiroshi Abe. In 2014 he released the iOS/Android game “JK Festa Vampire Fate.”

Fellow comedians would sometimes mock Kosaka’s struggles, but he’s the one laughing after Piko Taro decided to combine some fruit with a writing implement. “I remember the day well,” Piko Taro says. “I was at Kosaka’s house and had a pen in my hand when I saw an apple on the table. Oh apple-pen, yes [makes a stabbing motion]. Now what next? Pp-pet-bottle no – oh there was a pineapple here yesterday.

Perfect, pineapple-pen [he starts dancing]. It was great – Kosaka knew immediately we were on to something.”

Given the song’s lyrics, you can’t expect a much more profound explanation. The video cost just ¥100,000 to make, was released on August 15, and instantly proved popular amongst Japanese students. It then turned into a global phenomenon when Justin Bieber tweeted that it was his favorite video on the Internet.

“When I first heard that I thought a beaver had tweeted something about it,” he says. “Honestly, that sounded more realistic. Obviously, I was delighted. The ‘Justimpact’ has been phenomenal. I sent him a thank you message, but I doubt he’ll read it given the thousands of people who write to him.”

Soon after the Canadian singer’s message, which received over 68,000 retweets, “PPAP” officially became the number one music video on YouTube and reached the top 100 of various charts around the world. Stephen Colbert opened “The Late Show” with a skit of “PPAP” and more recently Ivanka Trump shared a video of her daughter performing it via her Instagram account.

“It started with junior high school girls and then just snowballed,” Piko Taro says. “At first, I didn’t have clue why they’d want to imitate me, but I’ve loved seeing all the different versions.

Most are better than mine.”

With the rising popularity comes the unsurprising suggestion that “PPAP” is the next “Gangnam Style.” While Piko Taro can understand why – they’re both earworms penned by Asian artists – he believes the two tracks have come from very different ideas.

“‘Gangnam Style’ is a kind of parody of LMFAO’s ‘Party Rock Anthem’ that makes people dance, whereas ‘PPAP’ is part of Kosaka’s comedy sketch,” he says. “The goal was to make lyrics that were clear so audiences would laugh and try to mimic the words. We also used a technique popular in musicals where you stop the melody during the track. The two songs aren’t similar at all, but if people want to compare them then I’m honored. After all, ‘Gangnam Style’ was a sensation that’s been watched more than two billion times.”

The monster tune was of course written

by PSY, whose follow-up song “Gentleman” garnered over a billion views. It proved he was no one-hit wonder, as many critics believe Piko Taro will eventually be labeled.

He doesn’t seem too worried.

“I could have a second hit – maybe even a third – or this could be my only one,” he says. “What I do know is I’m not a no-hit wonder and that delights me. It’s like a batter who hits a home run. You can’t be sure when the next one’s coming so for the time being you’ve got to enjoy the moment. That’s what I’m doing. Right now, people are talking about my song and that’s an amazing feeling.”

But the comments haven’t all been positive. Most people see “PPAP” as a bit of harmless fun, but others have voiced their disapproval of Piko Taro’s success while “more talented and serious artists” struggle to gain recognition. Initially surprised by the unfavorable observations, the comedian is now much more relaxed about it all.

“Early on I thought it was scary, but as a performer what’s even more frightening than criticism is getting no reaction at all,” he tells us. “Honestly, I don’t understand what most people have written anyway because I only speak Japanese, but I get the general vibe and try to read through everything so I can learn from it … One minute you check and people are saying nice things, the next you see something negative.

That’s fine. It’s a microcosm of life! We all have ups and downs; you just hope to experience more of the former.”

Piko Taro’s career is certainly on the way up now, and his company Avex is looking to cash in with a 20-track album due for release soon. He hopes to finish 2016 by singing on the popular NHK show “Kohaku Uta Gassen.” The ultimate dream, however, is to perform at Madison Square Garden, “possibly alongside Justin Bieber,” he says.

After the year Piko Taro’s had, maybe that isn’t as far-fetched as it sounds.

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BREXIT MAKES NEW ZEALAND LOOK GREENER

BY LIAM RAMSHAW, WHO WONDERS IF TEA IS THE ONLY GOOD THING LEFT IN BRITAIN

SAGAMIHARA MASSACRE TRUMP’S WIN MAKES

CASTS DARK LIGHT ON

REALITY TV SEEM REAL

HATE CRIME

BY ALEC JORDAN, STAUNCH SUPPORTER OF THE CALEXIT MOVEMENT

BY CHIHIRO ONODERA, FORMER EDITOR WITH TV ASAHI

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he tough thing about trying to wrap up Situation Trump is that it never seems to hit bottom. Could it be launching his campaign with the promise of building a wall between the US and Mexico? Nope. Insulting war heroes, mocking disabled people, or calling for violence at his rallies? Not even close. Allowing the appearance of a former beauty queen to become a valid debate topic? Just getting started. You’d think – and many pundits wrote – that the guy really didn’t want to get elected. He just wanted the attention, and was looking to parley the whole campaign into his own TV network. Instead, he surprised the world (and possibly himself) on November 8 by being elected the 45th President of the United States. As of the time of writing, he’s turning his Cabinet appointment process into a reality show and has appointed a white nationalist media mogul as his chief strategist. And, of course, none of us can turn away as Donald J. Trump continues to plumb the depths. How could we? It’s the greatest show on earth.

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s British always pride ourselves on a good sense of humor, and on the 23rd of June this year we proudly displayed it to the whole world by shooting ourselves in the foot by voting to leave the EU. Nobody really thought it could happen. New Zealand’s immigration website crashed shortly afterwards, such was the level of shock and desperation. The leave campaign was led by a who’s who of bumbling buffoons and angry racists from the British political classes. All the experts warned that it would be a terrible idea, but that didn’t stop 51 percent from voluntarily destroying their future economic growth. On the world stage we looked like a bunch of clueless idiots, but thankfully later in the year our American cousins took some of the pressure off with their own unique version of crazy.

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his July at the Tsukui Yamayuri-en Care Facility in Sagamihara City, Kanagawa Prefecture, 19 disabled residents were killed and 27 were injured in the most violent attack in the post-war period. The fact that this violent act was committed by a former employee of the facility, a person in whom the residents and their families had placed their trust, has cast a shadow of sadness, fear, and anger over our society. It’s especially tragic in light of the fact that, in April of this year, Japan had just instituted a law that was meant to bring an end to discrimination against disabled people; however, the worst homicide case based on discrimination and prejudice occurred right after that. One of the oddest details to emerge? Murderer Satoshi Uematsu had previously tried to present a letter to politician Tadamori Oshima, calling for the euthanasia of disabled people and detailing the plans of his attack. Although there’s no way to judge whether the act could have been prevented, it’s imperative that we now arm ourselves with a determination, born from our sadness, to create a society in which all lives are valued.

OUR LAST

POKEMON GO GOES CRAZY

BY MANDY LYNN, WHO ARRIVED HERE FROM SINGAPORE AS POKÉMON GO LAUNCHED; IS NOW DATING A POKÉMON GO ILLUSTRATOR

GOODBYE JAPAN SURPRISES WITH RECORD MEDAL HAUL AT RIO OLYMPICS

BY MATTHEW HERNON, WHO INTERVIEWED SEVERAL JAPANESE ATHLETES BEFORE THE GAMES

FIVE OF THE MANY ICONS WE LOST IN 2016, AND HOW TO REMEMBER THEM DAVID BOWIE 69, died from liver cancer in January

REMEMBER HIM BY… Listening to his 25th album, Blackstar, released on his birthday, just a few days before he died. It’s also worth buying the vinyl version and discovering all the hidden surprises in the album artwork – for example, when you expose the sleeve to sunlight, it unveils a galaxy of stars.

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wo men fell off a cliff (California).

A teenager got hit by a car (Pittsburgh). A truck driver ran over a woman (Tokushima). And yet, we are still playing it. Topping the charts as the highest ranked social media app, even surpassing Facebook and Instagram, Pokémon GO is undoubtedly one of 2016’s stranger things. While I’m no Pokémon fanatic, I have to admit that this new augmented reality game has brought gamers out from behind the screen and into the real world. How to identify them: they are lured in groups to Pokéstops. That, and you’ll see them in headline news: “Pokémon GO Accidents.”

From collecting coins and catching Pokémons to walking to “hatch eggs” (don’t roll your eyes, I’m serious), Pokémon GO was arguably one of the most anticipated games of 2016.

Whether that’s a good or a bad thing, we’re not too sure ourselves.

ALAN RICKMAN 69, died from pancreatic cancer in January

REMEMBER HIM BY…

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ranted this headline is not so much strange as it is surprising, but it got us talking thanks to Japan’s biggest-ever medal haul (41 in total).

In the buildup to the Rio Olympics I had the chance to speak with a number of Japanese athletes who all backed up their words by going on to win medals. The most pleasing result was probably Hiromi Miyake’s bronze in the weightlifting. She’s one of the most courteous and humble people you could hope to meet and fought back from injury to bring home her second consecutive Olympic medal.

Swimmer Natsumi Hoshi’s third-place finish in the 200m butterfly – despite suffering from Graves’ Disease – was also great to see.

Judoka Ami Kondo was not so happy with her bronze, though at 21 she still has time on her side. But my biggest Olympic interview was undoubtedly with gymnast Kohei Uchimura.

It’s the second time he has spoken to Weekender, and on both occasions he’s underlined how much more a team victory would mean to him than an individual one. Thankfully he got his wish this year, while also picking up a second gold in the AA event. He’s a true legend; I just hope he’ll still be performing in four years’ time.

Watching Alice Through the Looking Glass, released in May 2016 and featuring Rickman in his final role as the voice of Absolem, the caterpillar.

PRINCE 57, died from fentanyl overdose in April

REMEMBER HIM BY… Listening to his final album, Hit n Run Phase Two, released in December 2015. Although it’s had mixed reviews, it is essentially Prince’s last testament.

MUHAMMAD ALI 74, died in June after a 35-year battle with Parkinson’s disease

REMEMBER HIM BY… Buying the photo book GOAT (stands for Greatest of All Time). Originally a limited collector’s edition, this tribute to Ali has been re-released in a smaller size, but still contains thousands of images, art, and memorabilia, as well as five decades’ worth of interviews. tinyurl.com/TWali

LEONARD COHEN 82, died in November, “during his sleep following a fall in the middle of the night,” according to his manager Robert Kory

REMEMBER HIM BY… Buying his 14th album, You Want It Darker, released in October, the same month in which he told the New Yorker: “I am ready to die. I hope it’s not too uncomfortable.

That’s about it for me.”

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A C O N V E RSATION WITH

Ryu Murakami The acclaimed author’s latest book, Japanese Traditional Events, is a marked departure from the noir novels for which he’s famed. He sits down with Annemarie Luck to talk about genre switching, childhood nostalgia, and Trump versus Clinton

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Photographs by Gui Martinez

hen Ryu Murakami hands me his meishi, the first thing he asks me is do I like the feel of the business card. In the split second between him passing it over and asking the question, I have already rubbed my thumb up and down the white paper and noticed how silky smooth it is. “It’s made from limestone,” he says, with a smile. “No wood, no water.” It’s an unusual way to break the ice, but it does the trick.

And as he welcomes me into his workspace, which is actually a suite at a luxury hotel in the center of Tokyo, the mood is easy, calm, and far more relaxed than you’d expect when meeting one of Japan’s most celebrated – and controversial – novelists.

But then again, the 64-year-old has built a career on delivering the unexpected. Since his very first novel, Almost Transparent Blue (1976), which won the prestigious Akutagawa Prize and was heralded as a new kind of literature, the author and film director has shocked and fascinated readers with often grisly, graphic stories that have running themes of sex, violence, and drugs. Now, as I take in the view below of a cluster of treetops, which autumn has burned the colors of fire, I wonder at the unexpected extremes of Murakami’s subject choices. How does he go from creating brutal, psychopathic characters – like the serial killer protagonist in the awardwinning novel In the Miso Soup (1997) – to penning his latest work, a non-fiction picture book entitled Japanese Traditional Events (JTE)?

“Writing is my job,” he offers as a pragmatic response. “So while compiling JTE was a different process to writing my novels, it’s not as though I’m

not used to writing this kind of thing.” In fact, he tells me he previously wrote a vocational guide for teenagers, before rummaging in some nearby boxes to find a copy. He brings over the hardcover book to show me – it’s called Job Guide for the 13-year-old – and says, “This sold 1.5 million copies.” JTE could also be described as a guide, but in this case the focus is on traditional cultural events in Japan such as the New Year’s custom of visiting a shrine or temple; February’s bean-scattering ceremony (Setsubun); and March’s doll festival (Hina-matsuri). The book has both Japanese and English text, is charmingly illustrated, and comes packaged with a set of CDs featuring famous Japanese children’s songs produced by renowned composer Ryuichi Sakamoto.

There’s a knock on the door. It’s room service, bringing us a trolley of fresh coffee. Murakami pours me a cup, asks if I’d like milk and sugar, and then we take a seat on the sofa to continue the conversation.

IN JTE, YOU WRITE WITH SENTIMENTALITY ABOUT YOUR CHILDHOOD. IS THERE SOMETHING SPECIFIC FROM YOUR PAST THAT INSPIRED YOU TO WRITE THIS BOOK? When I was growing up in Sasebo, Nagasaki, there was a team of farmers who came all the way from Saga every New Year’s to perform an annual mochi-tsuki ceremony. It involves the pounding of steamed rice into rice cake, using big wooden mallets and a wooden mortar. It was very exciting for us. But around the time I entered middle school, supermarkets started being built, and they would sell ready-made mochi.

So the mochi-tsuki team stopped showing up. This is one of the traditions that I feel is now sorely missing

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I FEEL LIKE THESE DAYS IN JAPAN, IT’S HARD TO HAVE A WISH

a smear campaign against Trump, American people weren’t really that affected by this strategy. I’m pretty impressed by this.

You know, after Trump was elected, the American translator who worked with me on JTE, Ralph McCarthy, emailed me to say the election had helped him understand why I wrote the book. Having translated some of my novels, he had previously asked, “Why are you writing about New Year’s now?” [laughs] But after the election, he said he realized just how confused America is right now.

They’re confused to the extent that they’ve forgotten about their traditions, such as how the country was built, and what the constitution is based on. But because they are politically confused, now is the time to look back on the cultural side of tradition, in the way that I have done with JTE.

BUT FROM A FOREIGNER’S POINT OF VIEW, JAPAN IS ONE OF THE COUNTRIES THAT MOST UPHOLDS TRADITIONS... from our culture. So I saw value in writing about it, and sharing an impression of what New Year’s looked like when I was little. I also really enjoyed Tanabata, the star festival celebrated on July 7. There were bamboo trees in our backyard and we would write a wish on a piece of paper and hang it on the branches. It’s very romantic.

DO YOU STILL DO THIS? [laughs] Not so much. I feel like these days in Japan, it’s hard to have a wish.

Especially for young people, it’s becoming harder to enter a good company and earn a good salary. There are people surviving on meager wages, so even though they might wish for a spouse and a home, it’s hard to have hope under these circumstances.

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BUT ISN’T HOPE ABOUT MORE THAN JUST MONEY? Yes, but in Japan, religion isn’t working very well either. There are some religious people, of course, but many are confused about whether we believe in Buddhism of Shintoism. So we are missing the kind of community that develops when, say, Christians get together and go to church.

YOU’VE BEEN QUOTED AS SAYING, “THE FUTURE OF JAPAN IS DARK.” HOW ABOUT THE FUTURE OF THE WORLD … ANY OPINIONS ON TRUMP WINNING THE US ELECTIONS? It’s better than Hillary [laughs]. What I mean by this is that even though Hillary and her media supporters launched

I feel that developing countries, like Tibet and Bhutan, uphold traditions better than us.

EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE STILL PEOPLE WALKING AROUND IN KIMONO IN TOKYO? There are so many people who don’t know how to properly wear kimono.

HAVE YOU EVER CONSIDERED A POLITICAL CAREER,0 AS A MEANS TO HELP IMPROVE OR CHANGE SOCIETY? I don’t think I could change it, nor do I think I would want to. You know, I once received a letter from a reader. She was a high school girl. She had fought with her parents, and ran out of the house to

escape. She felt there were too many hardships and wanted to die. But she was reading one of my books at the bus stop, and said it made her realize there are many others who feel the same as her. So she thought twice about dying. I think it’s an honor that I can have this kind of influence on someone. To make them feel like they’re not alone. That even though life is not all about the good stuff, it’s also never a good idea to commit suicide. There is always something good if you keep on living.

IN THE PAST YOU’VE SPOKEN ABOUT JAPANESE PEOPLE’S TENDENCY TO HIDE EMOTIONS, WHICH THEN MIGHT EXPLODE SUDDENLY AND VIOLENTLY. DO YOU THINK THIS IS CHANGING AT ALL? It hasn’t changed much. Maybe we don’t know much about how to express our feelings. Maybe the style of the Japanese language is part of the reason. For example, we still have keigo [respectful language]. Also, there are many different ways to say one word.

This is perhaps one of the methods we use to hide our feelings.

IS THAT WHY YOU CHOSE TO TRANSLATE JTE INTO ENGLISH? TO SHARE WITH FOREIGNERS? I want people to use JTE almost like a textbook. Or if you are Japanese and working abroad, and if people ask you to explain traditional events, you can give this book to them. Also, there are more foreigners working in Japan now than ever before. One of the guys who delivers my room service, for example, is a refugee from Myanmar. I gave him a copy of the book, and he said it has really helped his community of friends to understand Japan’s culture. There are lots of ways to use the book. It’s not just for children. Right now, I’m also making a list of third- and fourthgeneration Japanese communities in the US. I want to send the book to them. I think it will help connect people together.

WHAT ARE YOU READING AT THE MOMENT? I’ve been reading several books about AI. What I’m interested in is whether AI can also dream as human do.

A NEW TOPIC FOR A NEW NOVEL PERHAPS? IN JTE YOU TALK ABOUT MORE FOREIGNERS COMING TO LIVE IN JAPAN. HOW DO YOU THINK THIS IS IMPACTING ON JAPANESE CULTURE? I think it’s positive. One of the reasons it’s hard for Japanese people to get along with foreigners is that it’s simply easier for us to be with other Japanese people. We are islanders so we have little chance to interact with other countries.

Yes, I think so…

Japanese Traditional Events (Kodansha Company Ltd) is available for ¥4,860 from Amazon. More information at jte.ryumurakami.com

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Words by Bunny Bissoux

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o some, they are nothing more than a buzzing nuisance, but honey bees actually play a crucial role in producing almost 70 percent of the food that ends up on our plates. In addition to producing delicious honey, bees pollinate a vast majority of vegetables, crops and flowers, which in turn yield fruits that feed birds and other wildlife.

Protecting the bees is not just a matter of insect conservation; it’s both an environmental and agricultural problem, it’s about protecting ecosystems and, ultimately, our entire food system.

Over the past few years you may have heard of the “global honey bee crisis,” but despite numerous reports and campaigns, the bee population has continued to decline. The cause of the crisis is still a point of contention, with beekeepers and environmental groups largely disagreeing with chemical manufacturers. But rather than one genesis, the most likely explanation for the decline is the nightmarish combination of pesticide use, climate change, mites, disease and the increasing lack of suitable environments to provide nectar (due to intensive farming and urban development).

In Japan, large areas of the country are occupied by manmade forests of non-nectar-producing cedar, cypress and pine trees, as well as rice paddies and farmland lacking the flowers and variety of plants that bees need to stay healthy. In addition, Japan is still one of the top pesticide users in the world. However, while their countryside counterparts are strug-

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WHILE THEIR COUNTRYSIDE COUNTERPARTS ARE STRUGGLING, THE CITY BEES ARE DOING BETTER THAN EVER

gling, the city and suburban bees are doing better than ever. In Chuo Ward, high above luxury boutiques, upmarket restaurants and stylish bars, the Ginza Honey Bee Project (also known as Gin Pachi – combining the location with the Japanese word for “bee”) keeps bees on the rooftop of a high-rise building just a few minutes walk from the station.

When we meet with the project’s founder, Atsuo Tanaka, at first glance it’s hard to believe this well-dressed businessman is one of the most progressive beekeepers in the

country. But within minutes, his passion and devotion for the project becomes clear. In the spring of 2006, after a chance encounter with a Tohoku beekeeper looking for roof space to rent in Tokyo, Tanaka offered his company’s rooftop, but somehow ended up becoming the beekeeper himself. “I’d never touched bees before; I didn’t know anything about beekeeping,” he says. “I grew up in a city and rarely had the chance to interact with nature when I was a child.”

As it turns out, the Chuo area is an urban paradise for honey bees who can go foraging for nectar in the flora of the nearby Imperial Palace, Hibiya Park and Hamarikyu Gardens as well as the flower pots and trees lining the elegant streets of Ginza. The bees then return to their rooftop home where volunteers harvest their honey, which is used to produce a number of products, including an array of honey-themed cakes, desserts and souvenirs baring the Gin Pachi mark. At certain times of the year, you can even hit nearby bars to sample Gin Pachi honey-based cocktails.

Tanaka’s business experience was likely an advantage in making connections with the local community and working with top patissiers, restaurateurs and barmen. He even convinced corporate CEOs to join him in harvesting sweet potatoes on his rooftop, and the geisha in Shimbashi to start growing rice. Earlier on the day we met, Tanaka had visited the Prime Minister’s house to tend to Akie Abe’s native Japanese honey bees – which are apparently very difficult to raise and vastly outnumbered

© Ginza Honey Bee Project NPO

If the founder of the Ginza Honey Bee Project has proved anything, it’s that just because we live in a concrete jungle, it doesn’t mean we can’t support the survival of the honey bees. Atsuo Tanaka tells us more about the success of the project, and how helping the bees in fact means helping ourselves

© Naoko Yamamoto

HERE ARE A FEW SIMPLE TIPS FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE

1 Plant more flowers and create green spaces for honey bees – in your yard, on your office roof, or even just by adding some plants to your balcony.

2 Try to buy organic, local produce and food from regional farmers. Supporting them directly helps to accelerate their projects and continue their positive work.

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by Western imports. The Prime Minister’s wife contacted the Ginza Honey Bee Project after returning from a trip to America where Michelle Obama had shown her how she was raising honey bees in the White House garden.

Education is also a huge part of the project, and Tanaka believes it’s most important to deliver the message to children as a part of environmental education. “Adults tend to think the bees are dangerous, but when the children are educated they teach the parents too. It’s a great strategy!” he says with a laugh. The mission of the project is not only to keep bees but to ask people to plant more trees and flowers all around the city. “Wherever it is, a school or a shopping street ... when people pay attention to the environment around them, their perspective starts to change.” He continues, “People are apathetic; they should be more interested in the environment in front of them, not just concerned with animals in Africa or melting glaciers. Once they notice, it will help change society.”

Gin Pachi organises regular seminars and events, inviting regional famers and beekeeping groups to the city, exchanging skills, discussing problems and finding ways to collaborate while introducing regional produce and farming issues directly to city residents. “When you connect with people living in rural areas, your life in the city will come to feel more enjoyable,” says Tanaka. “What we eat is deeply connected to the people who harvest it ... I’ve been able to connect with so many people from different regions.”

Educate yourself, your children, your friends, and spread the word. Apathy could be almost as deadly to the honey bees as pesticides.

4 Support the Ginza Honey Bee Project. You can arrange a tour of their rooftop beekeeping garden through their website, and find links of where to buy their products around Ginza. Look out for their special Christmas honey cake available only from Matsuya Ginza in December.

For more information visit www.gin-pachi.jp

There are over 100 community beekeeping groups in Japan, over 40 of whom Tanaka has met with. Besides in Ginza, bees are collecting nectar in the most unexpected places, including Akasaka, Shibuya, Omiya, on top of the Marunouchi Building, at Oodori Park in Hokkaido, and even at Shurijo Castle in Okinawa. Groups are cropping up everywhere and the bees are living up to their role as pollinators – connecting people to each other.

In the 10 years since the project began, Tanaka’s life has been transformed by the bees. By understanding how they live, he has learned to appreciate the environment around him and become aware of various issues that different regions face. He hopes people living in the city will come to grow their own food, even just in small amounts, and by doing so, help farmers to solve their problems. One of the current aims is to make Gin Pachi products become popular souvenirs in time for the 2020 Olympics, a goal that could take this precious nectar, and its message, all around the world. As he connects the city to the countryside and spreads his mission beyond Ginza, Takana himself is performing his own kind of pollination.

A bee a cannot live alone: they always live collectively as a group. With a lifespan of only one to two months, bees are constantly busy – making honey, cleaning, warming their home, raising babies, and pushing out the dead, in a neverending cycle. Tanaka concludes: “They are very short-lived, so in that way, they are always living to connect their lives to another. I think we can learn a lot from them ... you can make society better by connecting together and solving each other’s problems, like bees do.”

© Ginza Honey Bee Project NPO

HOW YOU CAN HELP

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THE PROBLEM WITH JAPANESE CINEMA HIROKAZU KOREEDA IS ONE OF THE FEW LOCAL MOVIE DIRECTORS WHO’S PUSHING FOR ORIGINAL SCRIPTS THAT MIGHT APPEAL TO A FOREIGN MARKET. HE TELLS US MORE ABOUT WHY THE INDUSTRY HERE IS STAGNATING, AND WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE TO BRING ABOUT CHANGE Words by Matthew Hernon

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redictable storylines, risk aversion, small budgets and an over reliance on popular idols to bring in the crowds: Japanese cinema has taken quite a bashing in recent years. One of the most outspoken critics has been Takeshi Kitano who in 2014 described the film industry in this country as “going to ruins.”

Statistics from the Motion Picture Producers Association of Japan would suggest he’s exaggerating. The annual number of locally produced films being screened here has more than doubled since 2000, and for the last decade or so Japanese movies have enjoyed a leading share of the domestic market.

While this all sounds positive, the problem is that producers and distribution companies have even less desire than before to export content globally.

After all, why gamble on a young filmmaker with an original idea when you can invest in a liveaction adaptation of a well-known manga story or novel? The former might have the potential to appeal to foreign audiences, but it’s the latter that will put bums on seats in Japan, and that’s ultimately what they care about.

Subsequently there are now hardly any Japanese directors making a significant impression outside these shores. One of the few exceptions is Cannes regular Hirokazu Koreeda. The Tokyo native, who’s been compared to cinema masters like Mikio Naruse, Yasujiro Ozu and Ken Loach, started out in the early 90s as a documentary filmmaker. His debut feature-length movie, Maborosi, won him a Golden Osella for Best Director at the 1995 Venice Film Festival, and since then he’s continued to enhance his reputation as an auteur on the international circuit despite not being a household name in Japan. Six of Koreeda’s movies have been presented at Festival de Cannes, including Like Father Like Son (Soshite Chichi ni Naru), which picked up the coveted jury prize in 2013. Now he’s trying

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to encourage young Japanese filmmakers to follow in his footsteps. The 54-year-old recently met with 20 young directors at an event sponsored by Lexus Short Films where he reviewed their one-minute films individually before sitting down for a Q&A session about his own career. Afterwards he spoke to Weekender about the current state of the movie industry here.

“When I go abroad, people are always asking me who’s the next (Akira) Kurosawa.

Or when’s the next (Nagisa) Oshima coming along. Well it’s difficult to answer,” Koreeda tells us. “After 2000 you had a few Japanese directors like Shinji Aoyama, Naomi Kawase and myself, who seemed like popular discoveries for Western markets; however, we are all currently in our 40s and 50s so we’re waiting for the next generation to come along. Unfortunately, it’s harder than ever for young independent filmmakers to make an impression overseas.”

“To do well you need a proper sales agent, and right now Japanese sales agents have no guts whatsoever. It’s pointless even communicating with them. International companies like Wild Bunch, MK2 and Memento are the agencies with influence around the world that you need to work with. The hard part is making that first step and establishing proper contacts. I was fortunate to have people like (Taiwanese director) Hou Hsiao-hsien to turn to, so now I also want to try and give something back by speaking frankly to young directors and producers at workshops like this.”

One piece of advice he always gives is to get out there and travel to film festivals all over the world, particularly ones in Vancouver, Rotterdam and Busan as they provide the best platforms for promising creators. He believes it’s important to present movies at these events personally as this “has a much bigger impact.”

That’s what Koreeda did with his first two feature-length films and it had the desired effect. Both Maborosi and After Life received wide acclaim and theatrical distribution around the globe. Yet despite his international accomplishments and recent domestic successes with movies such as Like Father Like Son and Our Little Sister, Koreeda admits it can still be difficult to persuade Japanese companies to invest in his work. “I’ve got a story I still haven’t given up on that takes place in Brazil,” he says. “I took it to Toho and they said it was too big for them. Honestly, if they can’t do it, who can?”

“The problem is that major film studios aren’t thinking about the international market. They’ve no strategy from a business perspective and don’t seem to care about promoting their movies. Have you seen their posters? For the past 100 years, these companies have been able to remain active and competitive just by appealing to Japanese audiences, but that’s not sustaina-

ble. They need to change their mentality.

I’ve been banging on about this for ages.”

He’s not the only one. Many leading figures in the industry have expressed their concerns at the inward-looking approach that dominates the market here. Director Kazuaki Kiriya believes it’s a reflection of society as a whole. “In my opinion Japanese people have become more introverted and are less interested in looking outside,” he told Weekender last November. “You’re seeing it in business and with the declining number of students going abroad. It’s a worrying trend. The market’s shrinking because of the aging population so as a nation we need to be more outward looking in order to survive. I truly believe that for the movie industry as well.”

Kiriya was speaking after a screening of his first English-language film, Last Knights, starring Morgan Freeman and Clive Owen. An adaptation of the classic Japanese tale of the 47 Ronin, it was distributed in more than 30 destinations globally, yet got no response from any companies in Japan. Fellow director Kiyoshi Kurosawa also made his foreign-language movie debut recently with the French haunting love story Daguerreotype. The 61-year-old, who’s most well-known for his contributions to the J-horror renaissance of the late 90s, feels it probably wouldn’t have seen the light of day in Japan because “producers here aren’t really looking for original scripts these days and are only interested in doing anime movies or films based on manga stories and novels.”

2007 Cannes Grand Prix winner Naomi Kawase agrees, however she believes the main problem is a lack of support for people who finance movies here.

“We simply don’t have enough producers in this country because there’s no system for them to fall back on to recoup their investment. They’re the ones taking all the risks and many feel it’s not worth the gamble.

I’ve known three who’ve gone bankrupt.

It’s a tough environment that makes it difficult for young filmmakers to emerge on the international stage,” she recently told us at the Nara International Film Festival.

While this may all sound rather bleak, Kawase and Koreeda are not ready to give up on the next generation just yet. Both have recently led open seminars with prospective directors and are hoping to do more in the future. “People think I should be stuck doing my own projects all the time, but workshops like these give me fresh impetus and excitement,” Koreeda says. “I’m also mentoring filmmakers like Miwa Nishikawa (Sway) and Mami Sunada (While the Women Are Sleeping), who both have great potential. I hope to discover others.

We need more young Japanese filmmakers prepared to step out of their comfort zones and show the world their movies.”

RIGHT NOW, JAPANESE SALES AGENTS HAVE NO GUTS WHATSOEVER

KOREEDA FILMS TO WATCH

AFTER LIFE A movie that’ll make you stop and think about the one moment in your life you treasure above everything else. Recently deceased people staying at a waystation must choose a single memory they can save for eternity.

A stunning piece of work that includes actors working from scripts and “real people” providing genuine recollections.

NOBODY KNOWS A heart-wrenching film inspired by a real event, Nobody Knows is a documentary-like work of fiction about four children with different fathers abandoned by their mother.

Forced to survive on their own, their bond grows stronger. Yuya Yagira’s moving portrayal of eldest son Akira won him a Best Actor Award at the Cannes Film Festival.

LIKE FATHER LIKE SON A sensitive, thought-provoking story about a family forced to make a difficult decision when a blood test reveals that their son Keita and another boy were switched at birth. The moving tale caught the eye of Steven Spielberg at Cannes and his company DreamWorks picked up the remake rights.

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FOR THE STYLISH STAMPER These personal seals are made of titanium, feature smooth curves, and can be carved with Western names upon request. Samura-in Inkan, ¥51,840, samurain.jp

FOR MEN WITH MEISHIS This Shosa card case is made from just one piece of high quality leather that’s folded in a fashion inspired by origami, and held together with only one nut and bolt. Shosa Origami Card Case, ¥11,000, www.nonoyes.com

FOR BOYS WHO LIKE TOYS Because we’ve never needed an escape from reality more than in 2016. PlayStation VR, ¥49,980, www.playstation.com

FOR DESIGN ENTHUSIASTS Each block of wood making up this playful lamp is connected by magnets, so he can create different shapes as the mood takes him. Tukkun Light, ¥19,440 (¥7,020 for the mini), tinyurl.com/TWtukkun

FOR THE SPORTY BARBECUER Baseball fans will love this bat-shaped pepper grinder, which is bound to start both conversations and tastebud sensations.

Cole & Mason Beech Wood King Pepper Mill, ¥12,960, coleandmason.com and fissler.jp

FOR THE SERIOUS CAMPER No more baked beans from a tin during weekends spent in the great outdoors. But even if you’re indoors, this portable stove will turn dinners into hot pot parties. Sochikusya Portable Stove, ¥48,600, tinyurl. com/TWstove

FOR THE ARTY CHAMPAGNE DRINKER A collaboration between Dom Pérignon and German artist Michael Riedel brought to life this limited edition design that’s all about “transformation” and “time” – perfect for an end-of-year gift. Dom Pérignon Vintage 2006 by Michael Riedel Giftbox, ¥23,000, domperignon.com

FOR THE SLICER AND DICER Each knife in this sophisticated set is personally and meticulously sharpened by a third-generation sharpening master, giving new meaning to the term “cutting edge.” Kamata Hakensha Hand-made Japanese Carbon Steel Knife Set, ¥29,100, tinyurl. com/TWkamata-hakensha

FOR THE HOSTESS WITH THE MOSTESS Created by French silverware brand Christofle, this pink-gold-colored cutlery set might be pricey, but it’ll make her a dinner host legend. Christofle “MOOD Precious” Cutlery Set, ¥264,000 (incl. tax). For more information, call Christofle Aoyama Boutique on 03 3499 5031 or visit www.facebook.com/ ChristofleJapan

FOR THE SCARF SOPHISTICATE Made from a newly developed fabric that’s woven from an organza thread that’s about one-fifth the thickness of human hair, this scarf is light as a feather and a perfect example of Japanese workmanship. Amaike Super Organza Scarf, ¥14,580, amaike.jp

FOR YOUR NUMBER ONE Give her all of Kiehl’s number-one selling items for 2016, packaged in a limited-edition travel bag designed by New York-based artist, product designer, and animator Jeremyville. Kiehl’s x Jeremyville Holiday Collection, ¥18,000, kiehls.jp

FOR THE INNER ARTIST If she’s the kind of woman who loves a touch of fun, these colorful insoles will make her day, every day. Chemifelt Japan Graphicinsole Soko, ¥1,944, tinyurl.com/TWinsole

FOR BAG LADIES These handcrafted purses are made from embossed white leather, painted by a team of artisans, and finished with a shiny lacquer coating. More than 100 designs are available. Bunkogawa Leather Purse, ¥25,500, www.oozeki-shop.com

WIN! ONE OF FIVE SCALP BRUSHES FOR THE GIRL WITH A PEARL EARRING An exquisite combination of Japanese Maki-e art (lacquer sprinkled with gold or silver powder) and delicate pearls create these irresistible earrings.

Karafuru Makie Pearl Earrings, ¥23,760, tinyurl.com/TWkarafuru

FOR THE HAIR STYLISTA With 376 bristles, this revolutionary brush – and cult favorite amongst Japanese women – is designed to be used while shampooing to massage and remove dirt from follicles (the secret lies in the rounded tips being the same size as the pores). It’s also oh-so-pretty and comfortable to handle. S Heart S Scalp Brush, ¥6,990, www.s-heart-s.net

We’re giving away five of these amazing brushes to lucky Weekender readers. To enter, send your name and Tokyo address to luck@ engawa.global by January 6, 2017. Prizes will be delivered in January.

FOR BATHING BEAUTIES Looks like ice cream, smells like ice cream, melts in the bath like, well, ice cream. Coldstone Bath Bomb, ¥850, available from Wise Integration Co., Ltd. (only in Japan)

FOR BE@RBRICK COLLECTORS Released on November 26, this special Christmas BE@RBRICK is a real collector’s edition with its “Merry Christmas 2016” message on the back. BE@RBRICK 2016 Xmas Stained-glass Tree Ver., ¥1,500-¥39,000 (depending on size), bearbrick.com

BE@RBRICK TM & © 2001-2016 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.

FOR BUDDING ARTISTS This mini Ukiyo-e canvas makes the perfect stocking filler for young arty types. Ukiyo-e Canvas, ¥100 from selected 100 Yen shops

FOR HIRAGANA LEARNERS These handy chopstick rests are available in all 46 syllables of the Hiragana writing system, sold in sets of words such as “yokoso” or “omotenashi,” or as individual syllables by order.

Decent Work Labo Hiragana Hashioki, ¥1,944 (four-character set), tinyurl.com/TWhiragana

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FOR NINJA TEA DRINKERS Filled with premium quality green tea from Shizuoka, this tea bag range comes with handmade leather cutouts (which double up as stickers) of ninja, samurai, geisha, sumo wrestlers, and other characters attached to the bags.

Yamasu Sugimoto Shoten “Ensemble Cast” Green Tea Bags, ¥1,080 from Tokyu Hands and Rakuten

FOR SENSITIVE ONES Marmaille’s line of underwear for babies is made with 100 percent organic Swiss cotton thread, and the fabric is woven in Japan, ensuring breathability and comfort.

Marmaille/Bisen Organic Cotton Underwear, ¥3,024, tinyurl.com/ TWmarmaille

FOR TWINKLE TOES A modern take on traditional Japanese geta, these sandals feature a sponge-like material instead of wood, making them much more comfy as well as water-resistant. Hajime Narageta, from ¥2,052 (minimum size 20cm), choose size and fabric at www.narageta.jp/order/index. html; also available at Kyobashi Edogrand (www.edogrand.tokyo)

FOR LITTLE MISS MURAKAMI These two pretty products are part of a special 2016 holiday collection by Shu Uemura and renowned artist Takashi Murakami. Shu x Murakami Block Booster Protective Moisture Primer, ¥4,500, and Blanc: Chroma Blossom in Brightening UV Cushion Foundation Compact Case and Puff, ¥1,300, www.shuuemura.jp

FOR HAPPY EATERS From German fine tableware brand Kahla comes this siliconecoated “magic grip” crockery set that’s bound to help make meal times happier (and less messy).

Kahla Magic Grip Dishware Set, ¥10,800 from Fissler stores, www.fissler.jp

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It’s All About the Rice Chef Takuya Nezasa of Grand Hyatt Tokyo tells us about a new, organic rice he’s cultivated specially for Shunbou restaurant – it’s so delicious he recommends you order it with just a raw egg

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akuya Nezasa is the kind of person who pays fine attention to detail. As executive sous chef of Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s Shunbou restaurant, he personally picks out much of the décor and tableware – think gorgeous natural woods and beautifully crafted, hand-made ceramics – and he admits to being “very choosy” about the ingredients he features on the traditional Japanese menu.

So it’s no surprise that, last year, he created a brand of superb quality rice that’s exclusive to Shunbou, cultivated on Kurosawa Farm in Yamagata Prefecture. Because if there’s one ingredient that’s essential to Japanese cuisine, it’s rice.

“I had actually been trying to create an exclusive rice for some time, but most farmers aren’t willing to let you use just one small part of their land. Luckily, I connected with a farmer at Kurosawa Farm who agreed to give us some land, and to the conditions I asked for,” he tells Weekender.

Yamagata has long been revered for developing a superior type of rice called tsuya hime, which is known for being shiny, fluffy, and extra tasty, so Nezasa already had a good base from which to work. Over and above that, he asked them “to only use clean water that flows directly from the mountain, to minimize pesticides, and make it as organic as possible.” Everything is done by hand, too, and the result is Shunbou-mai, a premium rice that scores

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yet traditional atmosphere. It’s also testament to the hotel’s focus on showcasing the quality of Japan and its cuisine, and supporting local farmers and artisans, while still maintaining a global outlook and catering to guests from around the world.

When asked to suggest three dishes from the menu that pair well with Shunbou-mai, the chef recommends the charcoal-grilled Hida beef dishes, their signature sukiyaki, or – and he chuckles a little as he says this last one – even just a raw egg. (You know the rice must be good if all you’re going to eat it with is one raw egg; even if said egg does cost ¥350 and come all the way from Kyoto.) Should you prefer noodles to rice, Nezasa has also recently added original Shunbou soba to the menu. And from around February next year, he adds, “We’ll be launching our very own Shunbou sake.”

Shunbou-mai can be purchased from the restaurant directly (small ¥3,000, large ¥5,000).

CONTACT Shunbou at Grand Hyatt Tokyo 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku 03 4333 8786 tokyo.grand.hyatt.com

THE FARM ONLY USES WATER THAT FLOWS DIRECTLY FROM THE MOUNTAIN

at least 80 points or higher on Japan’s taste scale of 100 (standard rice, by comparison, scores 65 to 75).

Nezasa personally visits the farm three to four times a year, and insists on slow-cooking the rice for diners in a classic Japanese kama (iron pot), which heightens the already sweet flavor. “The superior texture and taste has got a lot to do with the pressure inside the pot.” The rice is served in the kama too, adding to the restaurant’s modern

PL AY O U T TH E OL D Y E A R Music, art shows, a variety of events, and an update from Tokyo’s glitterati scene that should help you get into the right frame of mind to send 2016 packing in style.

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Photo by GOCHO SHIGEO, Photograph from the series Childhood, 1983

ART & MUSIC

T H ERE WAS A MA N CA L L E D GOC H O SH IG E O 1 9 4 6 -1 9 8 3 Afflicted with vertebral tuberculosis from the age of three, Shigeo Gocho overcame the debilitating handicaps of his illness to develop a memorable career as a photographer before his untimely death at the age of 36. As can be seen from the black and white images drawn from the many photographic series that Gocho shot during his lifetime, the figures that he shoots – children, family, and friends – are reacting to his stunted body at the same time he is capturing them to film. Photo History Museum, Fujifilm Square Until December 28 fujifilmsquare.jp

THE ART WORLD

OU R PIC K O F T H E C I T Y’S B ES T EXHI B I T I ONS Compiled by Alec Jordan

K E I TA M IYAZAK I “T H E TOWE R” Sculptor Keita Miyazaki brings together seemingly disparate objects – car parts, polished pieces of bronze, and handmade paper and felt – to create works that are both intriguing and whimsical.

Some pieces seem to suggest what kind of work M.C. Escher could have done had he taken up automobile engine design, while the centerpiece of Miyazaki’s first solo exhibit in Tokyo for seven years is a five-meter-tall sculpture that was inspired by the Tower of Babel.

Loko Gallery Until December 18 lokogallery.com/en

(the Tower) / car parts, paper, felt, speaker system / H457×W265×D175 cm / 2016

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(Whites) / car parts, paper / H60×W50×D30 cm / 2016

Dusadee Huntrakul, “Sample of possible monument,” 2016 Ceramic (porcelain and found clay), 22 x 16 x 17cm

M US I C In honor of Bob Dylan being awarded with the Nobel Prize for Literature this year, we’ve assembled three musical interpretations of the poetry of three different Nobel laureates

TRACING THE PAST – AN INSIGHT INTO THE THAI CONTEMPORARY ART SCENE It’s known as The Land of Smiles, but Thailand is a country with a complex, and sometimes turbulent, history that is often ignored by the millions of tourists who visit each year. As the opening of the MIAAIM Contemporary Art Museum in Chiang Mai goes to show, the country is also home to a vibrant contemporary art scene. This exhibit features the work of four Thai-based artists whose work grapples with the changing political and social landscape of today’s Thailand. Nichido Contemporary Art Until January 14, 2017 www.nca-g.com/en/index.html

BRAZILIAN GIRLS “ME GUSTA CUANDO CALLAS” The Chilean poet Pablo Neruda won the Nobel Prize in 1971 for a body of work that celebrated the elements and the many atmospheres in which love exists. The NY-based band Brazilian Girls brings a compelling rhythm to a song that celebrates silence. bit.ly/TWCuandoCallas

Shunji Iwai, friends after 3.11 (film version), 2012

MAANAM “NIC DWA RAZY/NOTHING TWICE” The sonorous and wistful celebrations of daily life are what brought the Polish poet Wislawa Szymborska acclaim, and the 1996 Nobel Prize. Her reminder that ever precious moment passes, never to be repeated, is given a 90s rock treatment by the Polish rockers Maanam. bit.ly/TWNothingTwice

ART F O R L I F E: EA RTH QUA K E How can art help us recover from the trauma of natural disaster? The latest exhibit at the Taro Okamoto Museum in Kawasaki answers this question with a collection of colorful, sobering, and thought-provoking pieces, made by artists who were affected by events of March 11. All of them will make you think about the power of the creative process to aid in rebuilding and recovery – if not of physical structures, but of the spirit. Taro Okamoto Museum of Art, Kawasaki Until January 9, 2017 www.taromuseum.jp/exhibition/current.html

SOLOMON BURKE “MAGGIE’S FARM” OK, even people who really like Dylan have to admit that his singing is something of an acquired taste. Here, his song about “just saying ‘No!’” to a few different things gets the soul treatment from the underappreciated singer Solomon Burke. bit.ly/TWMaggiesFarm

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN DECEMBER 1 DEC 6

2 DEC 1-25 KAMASI WASHINGTON

Jazz lovers will relish the chance to watch Washington playing live with the band that’s been accompanying him since his teenage years.

Where: Billboard Live Tokyo How much: ¥9,000-¥10,500 More info: tokyoweekender.com

ALICE IN WONDERLAND CHRISTMAS SWEETS BUFFET Although the Alice in Wonderland buffet continues until January 31, this Christmas-themed special puts a sweet touch on the offer.

Where: Keio Plaza hotel How much: Adults ¥3,800, Kids ¥2,600 More info: tokyoweekender.com

6 DEC 31

5 DEC 3

COUNTDOWN LOUNGE AT PARK HYATT TOKYO

BRIDGE STREET MARKET Recreating the look and feel of London’s outdoor market of the same name, this event promises plenty of shopping and entertainment.

Where: Around Ba-Tsu Art Gallery How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com

At the hotel’s Peak Bar, guests will be treated to free-flowing champagne, cocktails, light canapés and live music to celebrate the New Year.

Where: Park Hyatt Tokyo How much: ¥15,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com

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3 DEC 1-31 ANNE COLLIER: WOMEN WITH CAMERAS Deconstructing the assumption of disposability in the digital age, the New York-based artist focuses on found photos of women holding cameras.

Where: Rat Hole Gallery How much: Free More info: ratholegallery.com

7 DEC 1-3 JULIAN OPIE EXHIBITION Most famous for illustrating the album cover of “Blur: The Best Of,” this British artist’s line drawings with minimal detail and color are on show in Harajuku.

Where: Maho Kubota Gallery How much: Free More info: mahokubota.com

4 DEC 1-7 RIKUGIEN GARDENS ILLUMINATIONS Enjoy an uber romantic evening setting at these Edo-style gardens, where the illuminations highlight the last of the autumn leaves.

Where: Rikugien Gardens How much: ¥150-¥300 More info: tokyoweekender.com

8 DEC 14 AKO GISHI-SAI FESTIVAL Celebrating the anniversary of the death of the 47 Ronin, this memorial service features a procession and volunteers dressed up as the samurai.

Where: Sengakuji Temple How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com

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9 DEC 1-4 SAN-DAI-ME RICHARD A witty reworking of Shakespeare’s “Richard III,” this multilingual play sees the Bard himself put on trial for defaming ikebana master Richard.

Where: Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre How much: ¥3,000-¥5,500 More info: geigeki.jp

11 DEC 1-31 CUBISM IN JAPAN: PICASSO’S IMPACT Peek into Cubism’s effect on 20th century Japanese art with pieces by Picasso, Georges Braque, Tetsugoro Yorozu, and Seiji Togo.

Where: The Museum of Modern Art How much: ¥1,100 More info: tokyoweekender.com

10 DEC 1-18 VAN GOGH AND GAUGUIN Subtitled “Reality and Imagination,” this exhibition focuses on the artists’ individual styles, and how they inspired each other after meeting in 1888.

Where: Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum How much: ¥1,600 More info: tokyoweekender.com

12 DEC 1-31 CARETTA ILLUMINATION 2016 CANYON D’AZUR A special illumination display will be held every 20 minutes, lasting for about eight minutes each round.

Where: Caretta Shiodome How much: Free More info: caretta.jp

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5 REASONS TO STAY

AT HOTEL THE M INNSOMNIA AKASAKA AND FIVE THINGS TO DO IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD… 1. LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION With its tagline being “The hotel that never sleeps,” it’s no surprise that HOTEL the M INNSOMNIA akasaka picked an area that’s known not only for being culturally rich but also for its energetic social scene. Whether you’re in Tokyo for work or play, the hotel is ideally situated in the center of Akasaka, giving you plenty of options for eating, drinking, partying, shopping, and sightseeing (see opposite page for Weekender’s recommendations).

2. THERE’S A STATE-OF-THE-ART PRIVATE KITCHEN Why would you need a private kitchen when you’re staying at a hotel? Because you might be here on an extended stay and decide you’d like to host a dinner party. Or you might not be a guest, but someone looking for a venue to host cooking events and classes. The “Kitchen Drinker” room is available for rent for both guests and non-guests, and you are welcome to either prepare your own meal or order catering. The space includes modern cooking facilities with storage design by German company Bulthaup, and a dining table with eight seats. Don’t forget to order after-dinner coffee from Unir café, which is on the hotel’s first floor and is open 24 hours a day (guests can order coffee for free).

Rental fee: ¥29,000 (including tax and service fee)

per four hours. Half price for guest staying at the hotel. If you’re traveling in a large group, ask the hotel about their special package deal, which includes guest rooms and Kitchen Drinker rental at reduced rates.

3. IT’S A HOME AWAY FROM HOME Rather than being yet another skyscraper style hotel, the accommodation here is more like an apartment building, giving you privacy and spaciousness, while also creating a more homely atmosphere. Think smart business hotel combined with personal touches and hints of Japanese tradition – for example, book the biggest room, which is called “Wa – Japanese style” and you get Western-style beds as well as an 8-mat tatami room. The smallest room is 35m² but even this one includes a lounge area and workspace.

4. YOU GET YOUR OWN BOARDROOM Geared towards businesspeople who might be traveling to Japan for short periods and need an office space to work from, HOTEL the M INNSOMNIA akasaka offers a room called “Workaholic” that’s equipped with a stylish boardroom table, top quality sound system, and high-definition TV screen. It’s the ideal venue for hosting meetings or conference calls, and allows an easy segue from business conversations to after-work team building.

Rental fee: ¥19,000 (including tax and service fee) per two hours. Half price for guests staying at the hotel.

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5. YOU CAN WORK OUT AFTER WORKING No need to hunt around for a gym as there’s an in-house one right here.

The “Muscle Pain” room is open 24 hours a day, so no matter what time you clock off work you can still fit in an hour on the treadmill. It’s free for hotel guests and features stylish equipment from the Italian manufacturer Technogym’s Wellness Collection.

HOTEL the M INNSOMNIA akasaka 2-14-14 Akasaka, Minato-ku Phone: 03 3568 3456 Web: www.m-innsomnia.com

WATCH LIVE MUSIC Crawfish is a comfortable American-style pub and livehouse where you can catch gigs by local and international acts.

Perfect for friendly mingling, and a variety of genres including rock, pop, blues, pop, and more. crawfish.jp

SAMPLE EDO ERA-STYLE SUSHI New sushi restaurant Itamae Sushi Edo opened its doors at the end of October, and welcomes guests with top quality ingredients, an Edo atmosphere and era-appropriate clothing to boot – when you arrive, you’ll be invited to don a yukata. The restaurant interior is modeled after sajiki-seki box seating in a Kabuki theater, and chefs prepare food as a kind of live performance, making for an exciting and entertaining dining experience. itamae.co.jp

AKASAKA HOT SPOTS TOP THINGS TO DO IN ONE OF TOKYO’S LIVELIEST ’HOODS

TAKE PART IN A TRADITIONAL NEW YEAR’S EVE Besides having a lively nightlife scene, Akasaka is also host to plenty of traditional spots. On New Year’s Eve, head to Toyokawa Inari Temple, where singers, actors, TV personalities, artists and other creative types gather to pray for good fortune. 1-4-7 Motoakasaka, Minato-ku

TASTE LOCAL CRAFT BEER Japanese craft beer has been brewing up a storm lately, and Yona Yona Beerworks is an ideal place to sample the goods. Order their flagship ale, Yona Yona (which translates as “Night After Night”), a gold medal winner at the International Beer Competition for eight years in a row. yonayonabeerworks.com/akasaka

ENJOY THEATER, SHOPPING AND FAMILY FUN Centered around the TBS (Tokyo Broadcasting System) headquarters, Akasaka Sacas offers plenty of entertainment options including the Blitz theater, which regularly hosts local and international bands, the ACT Theater, which presents Broadway-type shows, and the Biz Tower where you can shop (and eat) till you drop. During winter, be sure to take a spin on the ice skating rink. sacas.net

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People, Parties, Places TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY

Kyoko Spector with three members of Italy’s La Scala Ballet

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ave an early deadline for this last column in 2016 so I starting working on it on Monday, November 7, at Oakwood Premiere’s luxurious lounge overlooking the park in midtown. It couldn’t be nicer. By the time you read this, Halloween has come and gone. I enjoyed a couple of parties for handicapped kids. The street scene in Shibuya was fun, but Roppongi was disappointing. Thanksgiving’s gone as well – and hope you and your families and friends had a good one. Of course, Tokyo started decorating for Christmas before Halloween was over.

I want to thank you for reading the column, and for your friendship and support over the years. I wish you all a very merry Christmas and hope the new year is a good one for you – and a better one for people everywhere.

Looking around Oakwood with its international and Japanese staff, warm ambiance, super service and wonderful facilities makes me aware of what a great job they’ve done in making themselves a special part of our community.

Our friends at their always growing chain of luxurious furnished apartments really do keep busy. Just a few months ago, they opened their beautiful new facilities in the big Tekka Building near Tokyo Station. More recently they had a people-packed fun party at Midtown Oakwood Premiere to celebrate the opening of the new Oakwood in Minami-Azabu. Like all Oakwood facilities, the new one, with its three-bedroom and 41 studio units, has everything for those looking for the best. Special guests included former sumo champ Konishiki and two of his young sumo friends. It was a very special evening.

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REST IN PEACE MY FRIENDS I’m aware it’s all a part of life, but the passing away of family members, friends and others we love and admire is never easy. I don’t really like writing about all this the last column of the year, but I held off when I shouldn’t have, and feel I do want to remember friends and people I met who left me and many others with wonderful memories. I’d like to start out with Thailand’s highly respected, much loved King, H. M. Bhumibol Adulyadej. The very special man who was the world’s longest reigning, richest, and most revered ruler passed away on October 13 at the age of 88. During the seven decades of leading his country, he won the hearts of not only the Thai people, but people all over the world for his countless efforts in making things better for his country and people.

Thanks to several Thai ambassadors and friends in the hotel business in Thailand, I met the great man twice – once at the legendary Oriental Hotel in Thailand, and once in a rural area where I was a guest of the government visiting one of his agricultural projects and he was there taking photos. As most of you know, the king played the saxophone, loved jazz and once even played with Duke Ellington. Duke’s daughter Mercedes is a friend, and we talked about this when she was here in Tokyo. The world has lost a great human being, a great man, and a great leader.

PRINCE TAKAHITO MIKASA The world lost another special person when Mikasa-no-miya passed away on October 27. He was 100 years old, and as a member of the imperial family had an interesting and full life. I first met Prince Mikasa

MIN-ON BRINGS BIBAP TO TOKYO 1. Min-On’s Kazato Ito, Panama Amb. Ritter N. Diaz, his wife Ayana, MinOn President Kobayashi-san 2. Bill with “Bibap” cast – Kim Ruah, An Yong Woo and Yu Seon Hyun

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AT DEWI’S ANNUAL CHARITY GALA

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3. Glamorous politician Akiko Santo 4. Makoto showing off a little “fun fashion” 5. Still looking good – Transgender showbiz’s Maki 6. Zampa member does his thing 7. Cute “Miss Japan” Mika Matsuno 8. Azerbaijan Amb. Gursel Ismayilzada, his wife Rana 9. Dewi with Armenian Amb. Grant Pogosyan, his wife Natalia 10. Peruvian Elard Escala, his wife Cristina, APA Hotel’s Toshio and Fumiko 11. Dewi (center), Ceremony’s Hiroko Ijichi (right) and Ceremony staff

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GOOD HAPPENINGS AT OAKWOOD 1. Ken Iwasaki, Kamasami Kong 2. Stan and his beauty biz wife, Jane Yamano, Oakwood top exec. Dean Schreiber 3. Polish lawyer Aleksandra Czubak, Rotary International’s Hiro Kobayashi, Oakwood’s Martin Fluck, Adrian Rowles 4. Martin Fluck flanked by two young sumo wrestlers from the Musashigawa stable

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GIORGIO’S RECEPTION LA SCALA BALLET 5. Milan mayor Giuseppe Sala, Designer Junko Koshino, Italian Amb. Domenico Giorgi 6.

Domenico Giorgi, Italian car racer Ronnie Quintarelli, Dewi, Rita Giorgi, businessman Marco Staccioli 7. Rita with La Scala Ballet members 8-11. La Scala Ballet members 4 8 | D ECEM B ER 2 0 1 6 | TOKYO W E E K E NDE R

at a party many years ago and told him I majored in anthropology. He told me he majored in archaeology, and we became friends.

GRACE SAITO Closer to home, we also lost a truly great lady – Grace Saito. This lovely, generous philanthropist was one of the kindest people I’ve ever met.

She loved fashion, classical music, and her many friends really loved and miss her. Grace kept busy with her frequent classical music concerts which she held in Sogetsu Kaikan, the Imperial Hotel, the Grand Hyatt, the Peninsula, the Tokyo Hilton and other prestigious venues.

Through her many friends and connections, she was always able to get really good classical music artists to perform in her well-attended concerts. She was a very active member of the Rotary Club and proceeds of her events went to them for many worthwhile causes. She also helped me with several projects for less fortunate kids in the Philippines. We lost Grace on October 6. I’m so glad I was able to visit her at her lovely nursing home with Lilo Maruyama and Kyoko Spector several times.

She really was very special.

DEWI’S CHARITY GALA It was a full house (about 500 people) in the huge Maiougi Room at the beautiful Tokyo Meguro Gajoen. The occasion was Dewi Sukarno’s 19th Annual Grand Imperial Banquet Charity Gala Dinner to benefit the Japanese Red Cross Society and the Association for Aid and Relief.

The audience was a kaleidoscope of color with a lot of familiar faces from the worlds of government, big business, fashion, arts and entertainment. The fashion was original and, for the most part, super chic.

The women’s jewelry was proof positive of the song “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend,” as sung by Marilyn Monroe in the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

Thanks to Dewi, I had the privilege of sitting at one of the best tables, right in front of the stage. Others at my table included politician Akiko Santo; Kyoko Spector; a real cute Miss Japan, Madeline Umewaka; and Toshio & Fumiko Motoya, who own all those APA hotels you see everywhere you go.

Dewi opened the program with a heartfelt speech. This was followed by a toast by Azerbaijani Ambassador Gursel Ismayilzada and the presentation of the proceeds of the evening to the two main charities. The dinners at Meguro Gajoen are always superb and the multi-course meal was a hit. The show was excellent as well: Dewi always invites a legendary Japanese singer, and this year it was Jeorgi Yamamoto. He has a great voice and a wonderful stage presence. There was something for everyone, which included several pop songs by the four talented young guys from the group Zanpa. Dewi performed two ballroom dances with pro dancer Masaya Yamamoto. This was followed by a silent auction and the drawing of raffle tickets for great prizes.

The evening, which was masterfully emceed by Greg Irwin and Noriko Kawachi, was as always one of the highlights of our city’s busy social scenes. Congratulations to Dewi and her many friends who made it so special.

LA SCALA BALLET’S PARTY AT GIORGI’S Italian Ambassador Domenico Giorgi and his dynamic wife Rita have been super busy this year. It has been the 150th

anniversary of Italy-Japan relations, which has meant a full schedule of all kinds of special events to celebrate the event. One of my favorites was a laid-back, yet glamorous party at Domenico and Rita’s beautiful home for a visiting group from Milan that included the mayor of Milan, Giuseppe Sala, top executives of La Scala, and about 50 of the cast and crew of the renowned La Scala Ballet in Milan, who were here to put on a spectacular production of “Don Quixote.” It was really special for me when I learned the production (costumes, sets, choreography) was pretty much the same as the original, which starred my late great friend – and one of the most talented dancers ever – Rudolf Nureyev. It seemed that the La Scala top execs wanted to update the production, but the dancers who came from all over the world wanted to do it like Nureyev did. Well, it was a sellout here, and everyone I talked to had nothing but raves for the production. When the dancers heard I knew Nureyev, I got to meet many of them and talk about his shopping and other activities in Tokyo. The girls in the cast were beautiful and the guys good looking.

The Italian fashions they wore were outstanding.

There’s always a lot of delicious Italian food at the Giorgis’ parties and the embassy food and beverage staff really went all out that night.

It was amazing to see how much the dancers ate, even though they’re so slim and fit. I’ve been lucky over the years and have been able to spend time with some of the world’s top ballet dancers. With early training, rehearsals, performance, competition, accidents, jealousies, and more, it’s not an easy life. Even so, most I’ve met love and are very devoted to what they do. The La Scala Ballet dancers all seemed to have that same feeling.

MIN-ON CONCERT ASSOCIATION BRINGS THE BIBAP I love musicals, and I love Seoul. I don’t know why but I just never got to see the musical “Bibap,” which has been playing there for six years.

Thanks to good friends at Soka Gakkai’s Min-On Concert Association, I got to see the musical here, and I really enjoyed it. The talented six boys and two girls gave several performances at Nakano Sun Plaza. The stage setting was mostly a kitchen in a Korean restaurant. The music, singing, dancing and energy were really great. I was so happy when the cast came out to the lobby after the show and shook hands and took photos with many of the audience members. Congrats to Kim Hyun-Hwao director, Korean Cultural Center on helping get “Bibap” to Japan. Min-On does cultural exchange with countries all over the world – that’s something we really need these days. In November they worked with Venezuelan Ambassador Seiko Ishikawa to bring the Grammy-nominated tropical music band “Guaco” here. I had to miss it, but I heard it was a really colorful and exciting show.

THINGS TO DO Drop by the beautiful Conrad Hilton and check out the Tolman Collection’s Exhibition by one of Japan’s most renowned artists, Toko Shinoda.

The grand lady is 103 and still painting. The exhibition opened on December 2 and runs through December 11. It’s on the hotel’s 28th floor.

And the award-winning Broadway show “Rent” will be playing here with an international cast from Thursday, December 15 through Saturday, December 31. It’s the show’s 20th anniversary tour – and really worth seeing.

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Dutch friends – Gonneke Hauwing, her sons, Victor and Hugo at National Azabu

Adam Cooper, Hublot’s Salvatore Mandra, Martin Poole, Shiga, F1’s Nico Hulkenberg, Christoph Shiga, LVMH’s Chizuka Matsumoto, Bill at Xex Roppongi

Michael Jackson impersonator, Hiroshi Watabe

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