Tokyo Weekender - January 2017

JANUARY 2017

Japan’s number one English language magazine

PLUS: 7 Places in Japan You Must Visit in 2017, Change the Way You Work Out, and Kotatsu Dining

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in-depth

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS

COFFEE-BREAK READS

26 FITNESS SPECIAL: CHANGE YOUR WORKOUT

8 AREA GUIDE: ASAKUSA

18 COVER FEATURE: Q&A WITH JIMMY CARR

workout ideas and accessories for you to try.

Universally renowned for its sacred ground, Tokyo's original pleasure district comes alive when the sun goes down.

We chat with the popular British comedian as he prepares for his first show in Tokyo next month.

10 STYLE January calls for keeping New Year's resolutions, and staying warm while staying chic.

20 FINDING THE SILVER LINING IN A POST-TRUTH WORLD And other thoughts on how to get over 2016, and get through 2017.

12 BEAUTY Get the year off to a fragrant beginning with our roundup of Japanese and Japaninspired scents.

21 MORE THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO

14 TRENDS

22 SEVEN PLACES IN JAPAN YOU MUST VISIT IN 2017

Best way to warm up in winter: eat all your meals with legs curled up cozily under a traditional kotatsu – at home or a restaurant.

Extra silver linings in the form of film, literature, sport, music, games and stage shows.

First on our list? The exquisite and fairytale-like Wisteria Flower Tunnel.

From martial arts to the so-hot-right-now Surfset Fitness trend, we've got 13 unique

guide CULTURE ROUNDUP 33 ART Remembering the brilliance of David Bowie, and a nostalgic look at Sony's past.

36 AGENDA It's a musical month as the famed Harvard Glee Club comes to Japan, as do PJ Harvey and jazz legend Hermeto Pascoal.

38 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES Mingling with road racers, a princess, and the president of Ceremony.

JA NUA RY 2017

radar

J A N U A R Y 2 0 17 Publisher

ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President

Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producers

Asi Rinestine Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Senior Editor

Annemarie Luck Alec Jordan

Creative Director Features Writer Contributors

Sales Director Sales Executives

Media Strategist Media Consultant Media Relations Media Producers

Liam Ramshaw Matthew Hernon Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi Bill Hersey Dorothee Erle Bunny Bissoux Takaaki Murai Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Yu Suzuki Mandy Lynn Mary Rudow Junko Shimaya Yumi Idomoto Claudia Sun

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 Published monthly at JPR Sendagaya Building 8F 4-23-5 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 151-0051 (03) 6863-3096 / (03) 5413-3050 (fax) editor@tokyoweekender.com To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: customer-support@tokyoweekender.com For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6863-3096 or email: sales@tokyoweekender.com 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03)6863-3096 メール：sales@tokyoweekender.com Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

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@mizrama: Liam, thanks for stepping in to the Eds’ Chat while Alec is away on holiday. As Weekender’s creative director, what’s your favorite thing about our January issue? @liam_ramshaw: Thank you very much. I’m a little nervous because I have some very big shoes to fill (literally size 16), but I’ll try my best. Have to say I really enjoyed this month’s Fitness Special [page 26].

It’s going to help with my New Year’s resolutions. @mizrama: Are you going to try aerial yoga? I can picture you hanging upside down from a silk hammock. @liam_ramshaw: I think jiu jitsu is more my style. I don’t think a silk hammock would support my hefty frame. How about you? Any fitness resolutions? @mizrama: Well I did try the Surfset Fitness workout in Ginza. It’s a new trend from California that involves surfboards balanced on Bosu balls. It helped a little with my craving for the beach and the ocean. But mostly, I would like to laugh more in 2017

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– so I’m looking forward to Jimmy Carr’s show next month [page 18]. @liam_ramshaw: I would certainly agree with that.

After a tough year, I think we all need more laughter in our lives. Anything else you’re particularly looking forward to this year? @mizrama: Actually, I just watched the trailer for Martin Scorsese’s new film, Silence [page 35]. Can’t wait for that. It’s got a great cast … speaking of which, I hear you used to hang out with Andrew Garfield? @liam_ramshaw: Indeed, he was the childhood friend of the guys I used to live with in London.

He would often pop round for house parties. I can confirm he was handsome, talented, charming and an all-round good egg – but an absolute nightmare to have around if you wanted to hook up with any girls.

After all, who would you want to speak to if SpiderMan was sitting in the lounge? @mizrama: Pity you weren’t into jiu jitsu back then.

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WH AT ’ S O N O U R RA DA R TH I S MONTH . . .

We're mingling with the 24-hour party people of Asakusa, lusting after a Moncler Grenoble après-ski jacket, and feeling toasty with a traditional kotatsu.

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1 2 T RE N D S T OKYO T OKYO WEWE E KE E KE N DE N DE R R| DE | JA C ENUA MB ERY R 2017 6 | 7

ARE A G UI DE

24 HOUR PARTY PEOPLE

H G U O R H T T A FLO KUSA ASA

GINAL ’S ORI O Y K N D , TO E S D OW N G RO U D GO E R C SA E SUN H S T T I N R E ED FO E WH N OW N S ALIV andi E E R M Y O L Luca E C SA L I CT R R phs by E a T r V g S I I to o UN URE D and ph Words P L E AS

SERENITY NOW The main draw in Asakusa is Senso-ji, a Buddhist temple dedicated to the bodhisattva Kannon. The first temple on this location dates back to 645 AD, making it the oldest in Tokyo. Following reconstruction after being leveled in World War II, the temple became a symbol of recovery and amity, and remains one of Tokyo’s holiest sites, hosting the popular Sanja Matsuri festival in late spring. Commanding the entrance to the temple, the imposing Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) is a popular meeting spot and background to millions of tourist selfies. On the rare occasion that it’s open to the public, a visit to Demboin Garden, on the grounds of Senso-ji’s head priest’s residence, affords visitors a serene oasis away from the hordes of tourists.

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Even though Asakusa’s Rokku entertainment district saw its heyday a century ago, it still caters to nightlife with a host of rakugo (storytelling) theaters, cinemas showing classic films, and other adultoriented recreation. There are still a few dozen geisha offering their hosting services, giving Kyoto’s hanamachi a run for its money. Many bars are spread out through Rokku. Kamiya offers an electric concoction, Denkibran, which is a mix of brandy, gin and wine, while Samboa is the whiskey bar of choice. Post-drinks, you may want to take a jinrikisha (rickshaw) to Denbouin-dori for food at one of the numerous izakayas lining the street. And if you miss the last train, no worries, Bunka Hostel offers a more communal alternative to capsule hotels.

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER Positioned on the banks of the Sumida River, Asakusa has a great outlook on the water and the several bridges that cross it. A prime location for enjoying the view is from Kuritsu Sumida Park, right on the banks of the river. Every spring, the park’s cherry trees blossom to the delight of hanami partakers, who take up every square inch of park ground with tarps, or enjoy the sakura from traditional yakatabune houseboats on the water. Looming in the background across the Azuma Bridge, the Asahi Beer Tower can’t be mistaken – it’s the building that looks like a mug of golden beer, complete with frothy head. Tokyo Skytree is also omnipresent in the skyline to the East.

SNACKS APLENTY There are many delights to sample as you trek around Asakusa. Traditional Japanese snack foods are found throughout, such as daigaku-imo (candied sweet potatoes) at Chibaya, dorayaki (red-bean pancakes) at Kamejyu, and kuzumochi (arrowroot mochi) at Funawa. The sweet bread melonpan is a specialty in the neighborhood, and Kagetsudo has been making them since 1945. You can view the process of making intricately shaped, filled pastries from start to finish behind the window at Ganso Kimuraya Ningyoyaki on Nakamisedori. For more savory treats, soba noodle shops are everywhere in Asakusa, with Namikiya, Benten, and Asada being some of the better spots, but really, you can’t go wrong with most of the neighborhood staples.

ARCADE CLASSICS Over 90 souvenir shops and snack shacks make up Nakamise-dori, the stretch between Kaminarimon and Senso-ji’s Hozomon gate.

This is Asakusa’s most popular pedestrian-only shopping lane, but it’s not the only one worth strolling down. For a calmer neighborhood atmosphere and a touch of nostalgia, head west of the temple for Hisago-dori, a covered shopping arcade made up of family-owned shops with lots of charm. While there, you can visit the Edo Shitamachi Traditional Crafts Museum and learn about sashimono furniture-making, antique tool design and copper crafts. Also nearby, and not to miss on a nice day, is Hanayashiki, the oldest amusement park in Japan, in operation since 1853.

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STYLE

VALENTINO GLOVES Leopard print is a tricky one, and it should always be worn in moderation to avoid looking garish. However, if you include just the right amount of it to an outfit, it can add a touch of elegance. These supple leather Valentino gloves are a good example of that right amount; and we love the gold-studded and turquoise trim. Pair them with a black or camel coat, and enjoy the extra warmth from the sumptuous cashmere lining. valentino.com

JAN UARY CAL LS FOR K EEPING NEW YEAR’S R E S O LUTIO N S , AN D STAYING WARM WHILE STAYING CHIC Compiled by Vivian Morelli

ADIDAS BY STELLA MCCARTNEY BACKPACK January means a new year, which means a new you, and this part usually includes a vow to exercise more regularly. While the chances of keeping this resolution throughout the year are generally rather slim, using beautiful workout gear can be a motivating factor.

This Adidas by Stella McCartney backpack is designed for runners, with a reflective shell that ensures visibility during evening jogs.

Use this lightweight bag to store a water bottle and some essentials, and head to Tokyo's Imperial Palace for a reinvigorating loop around the moat. adidas.com

BURBERRY HOODIE January is probably the coldest month in Japan, and thanks to the lack of insulation in homes, it's essential to layer as many clothes as possible in order to survive the freezing season. Stay toasty with this fleece-back cotton hoodie from Burberry, with a hood lined with the label's signature checked pattern. The polished gold zippers stand out against the rich burgundy hue. Wear yours around the house or layer it under your winter jacket. While it belongs to the loungewear category, we think it's also appropriate for the office. burberry.com

SMYTHSON 2017 DIARY These days, thanks to widely available technologies, people don't use paper agendas nearly as much. However, there is a certain old-school, traditional charm associated with jotting down notes on crisp paper that just doesn't exist with tablets and smartphones. For the new year, treat yourself to the best version possible of a diary, from UK brand Smythson. Virtually unchanged from its 1908 design, it boasts leather binding, gilded featherweight paper, and an internal silk pocket to stow important documents and business cards. smythson.com

MONCLER GRENOBLE JACKET Moncler's Grenoble line is all about high-performance alpine gear and après-ski looks. Whether you're planning on hitting the slopes or staying in the city this winter, a warm and practical jacket is a must-have.

While most sports jackets usually lack in the style department, this number from the French-Italian brand manages to combine both comfort and chic. Filled with insulating down and feathers, this quilted jacket has a flattering cinched waist and convenient zipped pockets to safely store essentials. moncler.com

NIKE WAIST PACK Head out for an outdoor run or to the gym without worrying about where to put your phone and keys, or having them accidentally slip out of your pocket. This waist pack is a sleek and modern version of the infamous fanny pack. You can simply tie the bucklefastening, elasticized band around your waist and discreetly hide it under your workout clothes. This mini bag comes with two pouches, one of which is removable to provide flexible storage on the move. nike.com

TRE ND S

S T R O F M U CO

S T A T KO

P LED U R U C GS S TH LE I TA B L E W N S O L T A U E -F M YO U R R-AND E L T L A A E T H A TER: E ANESE N P I A W J L N PI NA ARM U ADITIO uck R W T O E T arie L Y ES A H Annem W y T b T F d ile EO BES Comp ER ON D AT HOME N U Y COZIL T H E S TORY Although the kotatsu has been around for centuries in Japan, the modern form is somewhat different to the original sunken hearth and charcoal burner. Today, it consists of a low table that has an electric heater fixed underneath. The contraption is covered by a futon or quilt, which extends over your legs as you seat yourself on the ground around the table. It’s so cozy that pets are bound to join in, and no-one will judge if you fall asleep and stay put all night long.

W H AT TO E AT Nabe (hotpot) on a portable stove. Also, if you arrive at a friend’s kotatsu dinner party with a bag of mikan (mandarin oranges), you’ll receive a round of applause. We’re not entirely sure why, but mandarins and kotatsu go together like popcorn and movies.

W H E R E TO B U Y ON E We like the brand Nakamura (nakamura-jpn.co.jp). Their kotatsu kits are available from Rakuten for around ¥40,000, and you can even buy the quilts separately should you want to switch them up every now and then. To purchase the kit pictured above, visit tinyurl.com/ TWkotatsu-rakuten

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RYOGOKU TERRACE THE STORY With a strong focus on health, this tucked-away terrace restaurant offers nutritious, balanced dishes. It also encourages you to exercise by offering rental gear, and shower and locker facilities in the pleasant Runcube space just next door. Wondering where to run? The restaurant is situated alongside Sumida River, with a jogging or walking path easily accessible.

WHAT TO E AT Go for the lunch set, which includes soup, rice, and your choice of three main dishes. They offer millet in place of white rice if you prefer, and you can look forward to plenty of healthy Japanese ingredients such as seaweed and daikon. For dinner, it’s nabe, naturally.

THE KOTATSU During winter, the terrace is transformed into a comfy scene of blankets draped over heater tables, dotted around the raised wooden floor. Best of all, your view is of Kyu Yasuda Garden, where you can also take a stroll after lunch.

1-12-21 Yokozuma, Sumida-ku. www.ryogokuterrace.jp

YOYOGI CURRY SANRIKU KOTATSU TRAIN T HE S TO RY How to revive the tradition of kotatsu and boost railway profits at the same time? Create a kotatsu train! For the past decade or so, Sanriku Railway has been offering a special two-car train boasting 12 kotatsu, giving travelers the chance to experience the ultimate winter wonder expedition.

W HAT TO EAT Reserve a bento one day before boarding the train – your lunch box options include Sea Urchin and Abalone (¥1,600), Sea Urchin (¥1,700), and Scallop (¥1,200). To reserve the coffee and sweets set (¥700), make sure you ask for it when buying your ticket.

W HEN TO G O Until March 26, on weekends and national holidays only, the train will run between Kuji and Miyako, with the roundtrip starting at 12.13pm and finishing at 4.46pm. A one-day pass costs ¥2,500 and reservations can be made between 9am and 6pm by calling 0193 62 8900. For more info (in Japanese only), visit www.sanrikutetsudou.com

T H E S TORY Opened in 2013, this terraced restaurant has a prime spot just near the entrance of Yoyogi Village, which is a trendy little space near Yoyogi Station featuring eateries, coffee shops, and plenty of greenery.

W H AT TO E AT Curry, of course.

They have a few different kinds to choose from – we’ve tried the Asian Chicken, and the Butter Lemon with Shrimp, and both were delicious, not very spicy, and reasonably priced at ¥980. If you’re there for dinner and want to expand on the selection, they also offer a variety of starters (try the Stewed Octopus and Olive with Tomato), and meat dishes, along with a complete menu of drinks which are served from their cute bar at the back of the restaurant.

H OW TO ORD E R Until April, they have closed in their terrace, and added blankets and heaters to all the tables, making this the best curry experience we’ve yet to have.

1-28-9 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku. yoyogi-curry.com

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BE AU T Y NIGHTINGALE

BY ZOOLOGIST A couple of years ago, Toomo Inaba left Tokyo for a quieter life in Kyushu’s countryside, where he continues his work as a fragrance reviewer, producer, and self-taught perfumer. Although Nightingale is his own official debut scent (launched in October), he has in fact created 50-odd private blends over the past several years, and his company Zoologist features a range of deluxe fragrances by different perfumers.

He describes his inspiration for the pink floral chypre as coming from an ancient Japanese poem, picking out one line in particular: “Soon you will be wearing a black robe and enter nunhood. You will not know each rosary bead has my tears on it.” The notes include plum blossom, agarwood, patchouli and moss.

Nightingale Eau de Parfum ¥14,200, www.zoologistperfumes.com

S N O I T A S T EN

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SCENT THREE: SUGI

BY MONOCLE The third of a series of fragrance collaborations between Monocle and Comme des Garcons, Sugi (Japanese cedar) is described as a “delicate, clean and energising” fragrance. It’s a unisex scent with top notes of Meditarranean cypress and pepper from Madagascar, followed by iris from Florence and cedar from Virginia, and finished with pine and Haitian vetiver.

Scent Three: Sugi Eau de Toilette ¥10,800, available from The Monocle Shop in Tokyo or from monocle.com

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SAKURA

BY MIYA SHINMA Born in Shizuoka, Miya Shinma now divides her time between France and Japan, but her perfume range is devoted to her country of birth.

Inspired by the cherry blossom, Sakura has robust notes that meld into soft floral nuances. Its characteristic scent starts off strong (like a woman who knows exactly what she wants), wrapping one in its musky embrace, before fashioning into a scent of freshly cut peonies amid hints of blackcurrant. It ends with tones of citrus and rose. We've got one bottle to give away; follow us on Instagram (@tokyoweekender) for details.

Sakura Eau de Parfum, ¥21,400, miyashinma.fr

Le Labo

GAIAC 10 TOKYO

BY LE LABO Known for its niche perfumes, Le Labo created Gaiac 10 exclusively for Tokyo. This means that its soft scent is tailored to suit Japanese tastes (or in this case, noses), and it’s only available from the store in Daikanyama.

We popped by to take a whiff, and the salesperson led us outside into the fresh air for optimal smelling conditions (because that’s how gentle the scent is). It’s a beautiful woody and musky blend that develops into a powdery, romantic fragrance.

Gaiac 10 Eau de Parfum ¥51,840, www.lelabofragrances.jp

KYARA AND KAZEHIKARU

BY DI SER

HANA HIRAKU

BY PARFUM SATORI

We’ve chosen two different perfumes by this Japanese brand that’s based in Hokkaido and also sells herbs and medicines, organic cosmetics, and organic health foods. Their fragrances are made without any synthetic materials, and they favor high quality over mass production.

Kyara is named after the fragrant wood that’s used in kodo (incense burning), and contains agarwood, cedarwood, rose otto, patchouli, and sandalwood. Kazehikaru represents “the wind that dances about the land,” and includes yuzu, neroli, shiso, Japanese rose, and vetiver.

Kyara Parfum ¥120,000, Kazehikaru Eau de Parfum ¥10,000, www.diser-parfum.com

Independent perfumer Satori Osawa mixes her pretty potions in a small Yoyogi studio, which has walls lined with tiny bottles of ingredients.

When we visited, she showed us a collection of her perfumes, which are inspired by Japanese culture – her signature scent, Satori, even comes packaged in a porcelain bottle that’s shaped like a chatsubo (traditional tea jar). Her latest creation, Hana Hiraku, launched in October and is inspired by Japan’s blooming magnolia flowers. It’s a dry Oriental with top notes of creamy melon and bergamot; middle notes of magnolia, jasmine, and rose; and a unique finish of miso, bees wax, and wood.

Hana Hiraku Eau de Parfum ¥16,000 (before tax), www.parfum-satori.com

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「masai balloon」2016 acrylic on canvas 53×53cm

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Nogisaka Station

The National Art Center, Tokyo

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Gaien West St.

Hokkaien

Aoyama Cemetary

Saturday 14th January - Sunday 29th January, 2017

Opening Hours: 12:00 - 19:00 | Closed: Mondays Opening Reception: Friday January 13th from 18:00 onwards

Roppongi Station

Nishi-Azabu Intersection

Roppongi Hills Mori Art Museum

Hiroo Station

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O N T H E E D GE OF A C L I FF ?

It's not always easy facing a brand-new year. But we've got plenty in store to keep you inspired: a good laugh with Jimmy Carr, 13 unique fitness trends and tips, and seven extraordinary Japan destinations – literal cliffs included.

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Interview by Matthew Hernon

As Jimmy Carr prepares for his first show in Tokyo next month, we called him up and chatted about his brutal humor, losing religion, and why laughing at an old lady falling over doesn’t make you a bad person

J

apan will be welcoming one of the biggest names in British comedy this February with Jimmy Carr set to perform his stand-up routine for one night only at Yamano Hall in Yoyogi, Tokyo. Anyone who's seen the 8 Out of 10 Cats host perform live will know this is not a show for those easily offended. Expect a barrage of witty one-liners covering every taboo topic imaginable, all delivered with a deadpan expression.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO INCLUDE JAPAN ON YOUR TOUR? It's not a place on British or American comedians’ radar, but I think it should be.

I’ve played all over the world and a close friend kept telling me I had to go. It’ll be my first time to visit and I imagine it’ll be as close as I’m going to get to actually being in Blade Runner.

WILL YOU HAVE MUCH FREE TIME TO EXPLORE THE CITY? I’ve got five days with a long list of stuff to do.

Everything from the cat petting cafés to the horror theme parks. I’m fairly obsessed by Japanese food and a huge sake drinker so I’m planning to go on a bit of a culinary tour as well as have a few nights out. Oh, and the Harajuku girls that I’ve seen in documentaries; I want to spend a day exploring that whole scene. I'm looking forward to all of those things as much as the show.

SPEAKING OF THE SHOW, WHAT KIND OF CROWD ARE YOU EXPECTING? I guess it’ll mostly be British expats, but wherever you go there’s also the Anglophile thing with people who love comedy from the UK, so I hope there are Japanese people there who speak amazing English. The highest calling for linguistic ability is being able to understand a joke in a foreign language.

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Alberto E. Rodriguez/ Getty Images

FOR THOSE WHO’VE NEVER SEEN YOU LIVE, HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR STAND-UP?

WAS IT ALWAYS YOUR DREAM TO BE A COMEDIAN?

It can be pretty brutal. My sense of humor is quite dark. There are certain jokes you’ll tell friends that you think maybe can’t be said in public, but I never want to have that barrier with the audience. I try to view them as friends, knowing that if I say something crude they’ll get that it’s just a joke.

Not at all. I was a marketing executive at an oil company until 26 and just got bored so I decided to do something more interesting. At that point in my life I’d stopped believing in God and subsequently felt freer. If you think there’s a life beyond this one, you tend to compromise more and not take risks. After reading The God Delusion by Richard Dawkins, and God Is Not Great by Christopher Hitchens, I realized all we have is right here, so it was time to start living.

IS IT HARD TO KNOW WHERE TO DRAW THE LINE? The lovely thing is that I feel I don’t have to draw the line because the audience does that for me. Anyone can get a reaction by saying something controversial; the trick is to make people laugh before they gasp. It’s a kind of cognitive dissonance that I love.

You don’t get to choose when you laugh; it’s a reflex that chooses you. When you see an old lady falling over in the street you laugh straight away, but that doesn’t make you a bad person. You call for help a second later.

I did a program for the BBC about laughter and it really is a fascinating form of communication that predates language by more than a million years. It’s a social noise that people don’t really make when

YOU ALSO LOST YOUR VIRGINITY THEN. DO YOU GET TIRED OF PEOPLE ASKING YOU ABOUT THAT? No I don’t because I think it’s nice for someone in the public eye to say, “You

in the industry has done anything they haven’t. Neither of them were stand-ups; they were just funny guys doing their thing.

WHO’S THE MOST FAMOUS PERSON IN YOUR PHONEBOOK? That’d probably be … Stephen Hawking.

He’s a huge fan of going out drinking and eating spicy food. Also, for a cosmologist he’s a bloody good laugh.

YOU CAN INVITE THREE GUESTS, LIVING OR DEAD, FOR DINNER – WHO DO YOU CHOOSE?

they’re on their own, even if they’ve seen something funny on YouTube. Apes used to try and make each other laugh by tickling, but for humans there’s a limit to the number of people you can do that to, so we try to elicit the same response through humor. You could say jokes are a remote form of tickling. That’s effectively what I’m doing when I’m on stage. It’s fun.

DO YOU PREFER DOING STAND-UP TO TELEVISION WORK? I wouldn't say that. TV shows are a joy. For a program like QI, I turn up as a guest and have a laugh with friends. It’s a dream job.

There’s more responsibility when presenting, but you’ve got 20 people behind the scenes working to make you look good. At the same time, I get to mess around with my favorite comedians. It feels like I’m standing on the shoulders of giants. With stand-up, whilst there’s more freedom, you feel extra pressure because you have to make it great by yourself.

SO, YOU STILL GET NERVOUS? Yes. In Japan, I’ll be on my toes and nervy for the first couple of jokes. Then at some point you stand back on your heels and think, “I’ve got this.”

know what, I didn’t have anything worked out when I was 25, but things still turned out all right.” When you’re a teenager you see life as a kind of race, and social media exacerbates the burden on youngsters to conform, and to outdo each other. On Instagram, there are constantly pictures of people having the best days of their lives or skinny girls posing with pancakes. The reality is skinny girls are hungry and many of us are just sat bored at home eating cornflakes. Life isn’t as wonderful as it appears on these sites, and during our youth we all have to go through embarrassing experiences; but when we get older we can look back and laugh.

DO YOU DRAW ON THOSE EXPERIENCES FOR YOUR SHOWS? I get material from small things like conversations or watching the news. I guess I see the world through rose-tinted glasses that are always looking for jokes. It’s like a puzzle. You have a phrase or an idea that might be funny, then you work back to try and figure out why it’s a gag.

I’m going to go for three living because the smell from the corpses would be off-putting. Heston Blumenthal, Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver. I mean, we’re having dinner, you just want the food to be good, right? If you’re talking about company, it’d have to be comedians, but I’d feel bad leaving people out. Who am I loving at the moment? Maybe three female comics: Michelle Wolf, Tina Fey and Sarah Millican. That’d be an entertaining evening.

ANY JAPANESE PERSON YOU’D LOVE TO MEET? I’m a big fan of Beat Takeshi. He was a big comic back in the day, and then made these incredible films like Sonatine and Hanabi, which I thought were phenomenal. You need a lot of talent to be able to produce that kind of work while also acting brilliantly as a clown. Another person I’d love to meet is Sonny Chiba. Watching his martial arts movies, you get the feeling he’s just basically very cool.

HOW ABOUT A GAG FOR THE ROAD? Hmm, it’s difficult because jokes are never as good on paper. Maybe one about dwarves as they usually get overlooked. I'll tell you what I know about dwarves: very little. I can say that as they look up to me.

Thanks very much.

BEST COMEDIANS EVER? Peter Cook or Spike Milligan. They are the Lennon and McCartney of comedy. Nobody

Catch Jimmy Carr on February 27 at Yamano Hall. More info at tokyoweekender.com

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Finding the Silver Lining in a PostTruth World And other thoughts on getting over 2016 – and making it through 2017 – by Brian Christian

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ell, that’s a relief! We’ve made it to January and that tinseltangled, sparkle-and-spangles Christmas thing is over for another year. It’s not so much the excess and over-indulgence that grates, nor the inescapable loop of syrupy festive pop (if I hear “Walking in a Winter Wonderland” one more time…). It’s not even the kawaii cuteness of it that I find irritating: all those woolly Rudolph hats with cartoon red noses and floppy antlers, or the strangely menacing green elves lined up to welcome you at department store doors.

These I can cope with. It’s the peace and goodwill I can’t stand.

Does anyone really buy into that stuff anymore? If the experience of 2016 has taught us anything at all, surely it has to be that the naïve notion of “goodwill to all men” is an old idea that has had its day. As every Twitter troll instinctively grasps, we now live in a not-so-brave new world where blinkered intolerance has found its voice and it’s the loudest in the room. And it’s not going to shut up any time soon.

It came as no surprise when it was announced that the 2016 word of the year in both the USA and Great Britain, according to

I THINK OF A PESSIMIST AS SOMEONE WHO IS WAITING FOR IT TO RAIN. AND I FEEL SOAKED TO THE SKIN – LEONARD COHEN

the Oxford Dictionary, was “post-truth”. There were times when it felt like expertise and knowledge just didn’t count: Global warming is a China-inspired fiction, Brexit means Brexit, and Santa Claus is coming to town. Why stick to the truth when there are better stories to tell?

When the twin refrains of a successful US presidential campaign are “lock her up” and “build that wall”, when a desperate clamour for shelter is drowned out by the hostile thunder of slamming of doors across Europe,

when gunmen and bomb-makers target the ordinary and the innocent in the name of some one-eyed warped crusade then it’s hard to share in any rose-tinted concept of love and brotherhood, comfort and joy. In the words of the late and much lamented Leonard Cohen: “I don't consider myself a pessimist. I think of a pessimist as someone who is waiting for it to rain. And I feel soaked to the skin.”

Or at least that’s the way I might feel if I didn’t spend most of my days working with children, the young men and women who will in time be the generation that will have to pick up the pieces of our fractured and far-fromperfect world and set about the task of bringing it together again. They may just be starting out on their adventures but I know they do so with an understanding that diversity is something to be celebrated; that the opinions of others, though they may be different from their own, are far from worthless; that listening quietly can often achieve as much and more than shouting out loud.

Late in the old year, a new study from the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health found that having an optimistic outlook on life – a general expectation that good things will happen – may help people live longer. The study went as far as to suggest that healthy behaviours only partially explain the link between optimism and reduced mortality risk: it is apparently a distinct possibility that optimism might even have a direct positive impact on our biological systems. No more Mr Scrooge for me. From now on my glass is going to be half full and every cloud will have a silver tinsel lining. My New Year’s resolution for 2017 is to put my faith in the potential of the next generation. Theirs is the authentic voice of the future.

Who knows? By next December I might even feel able to hum along to “Winter Wonderland” again. “Sleigh bells ring, are you listening…”

Brian Christian is the Principal of the British School in Tokyo.

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Words by Matthew Hernon

NEED A FEW EXTRA SILVER LININGS TO TRULY EMBRACE THE NEW YEAR SPIRIT? BESIDES HAVING A LAUGH WITH JIMMY CARR, HERE'S OUR PICK OF UPCOMING EVENTS AND SHOWS TO MARK IN YOUR DIARY SPORT

FILM Japan's best hope of an Academy Award this year unsurprisingly comes in the Best Animated Feature Film section, with Makoto Shinkai's Your Name (Kimi No Na Wa) expected to be nominated. In the Best Picture category, Martin Scorsese's religious epic Silence should be one of the favorites. Based on Shusaku Endo's novel of the same name, it comes out here on January 21. Other Japanrelated Hollywood films being released this year include Ghost in the Shell (above) and The Outsider. (See more on page 35.)

MUSIC Guns N' Roses' (right) popular tour "Not in this Lifetime" is set to arrive in Japan this month. The reunited line-up will be performing in Osaka, Kobe and Yokohama, before finishing things off with two shows at Saitama Super Arena. It should be a great way to start the year, however, April could arguably be the best month for live music here with concerts from the likes of Coldplay, Norah Jones and The Stone Roses.

The World Baseball Classic begins in March with all the games from Pool B – involving Japan, Cuba, China and Australia – taking place at Tokyo Dome. The player who will no doubt create the biggest buzz amongst home fans is all-rounder Shohei Otani.

The 22-year-old is considered one of the most exciting baseball prospects this country has ever produced. In football, Samurai Blue are aiming to reach their sixth consecutive World Cup. They’re currently second in their qualifying group with just one point separating the top four teams.

LITERATURE So far all we know about Haruki Murakami's next novel is that it is due out in February, it's going to be "a very strange story," and it'll be quite long. Regardless of whether it's well-received or not, the 67-yearold will undoubtedly be one of the favorites for the Nobel Literature prize come November. Is 2017 finally going to be his year?

thing, then a visit to one of Tokyo's five Shiki theaters (www.shiki.jp/en) is recommended.

“The Hunchback of Notre-Dame”, “The Lion King” and “The Little Mermaid” are just some of the shows you can see in the first half of 2017.

TRANSPORT A luxurious hotel within a train, Twilight Express Mizukaze will begin operating on June 17 with prices ranging from ¥270,000 to ¥1.25 million. The service offers five courses: One way trips lasting one night and two days (Sanyo Outbound/Inbound and Sanin Outbound/Inbound), and a circular tour around the Sanyo and Sanin areas lasting two nights and three days. twilightexpress-mizukaze.jp

GAMES Following the disaster that was Wii U, Nintendo bosses are hoping their latest console will bring fans flocking back. March sees the launch of Nintendo Switch: A portable tablet with detachable controllers that you can dock with your TV. The one title that's got most people talking? "The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild."

STAGE Two of Britain's best-known comedians will be doing their stand-up routines in Tokyo this February.

Jimmy Carr is performing in Yoyogi on the 17th, while Eddie Izzard will be delivering his self-deferential pantomime style to guests at the Tamagawa Kumin Kaikan a week later. If a musical is more your

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Words by Bunny Bissoux

7 PLACES IN JAPAN YOU MUST VISIT IN 2017 HOW TO AVOID THE POST-FESTIVE-SEASON ANTICLIMAX? START PLANNING YOUR NEXT HOLIDAY NOW WITH OUR ROUNDUP OF EXTRAORDINARY DESTINATIONS

WISTERIA FLOWER TUNNEL AT KAWACHI FUJIEN, KITAKYUSHU Established in 1977, this private garden is only open to the public for a few weeks between late April and mid-May, and during maple leaf season in autumn. Located deep in the mountains of Kitakyushu, visitors can enjoy two beautiful wisteria tunnels and various other structures featuring more than 20 varieties of the flower including some blossoming trees which are over 100 years old. The admission price varies depending on the bloom of the flowers, but it's well worth the cost and the effort to reach the remote location in order to experience the spectacular violet canopies overhead.

HOW TO GET THERE The most convenient way to visit is to rent a car from Fukuoka, with the drive from there taking just over an hour.

However, considering traffic jams and parking problems, it might be a better idea to take public transport. Head to Yahata Station, then catch a bus to Kamishigeta, and walk for approximately 50 minutes to the garden. Make sure to thoroughly plan your route and check the opening times in advance, and if you want to avoid the crowds, then try to avoid a weekend trip. During peak season, tickets (¥500-¥1,500) must be bought in advance too. kawachi-fujien.com

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JIGOKUDANI “HELL VALLEY” IN NOBORIBETSU, HOKKAIDO The appropriately named Hell Valley is just a 20-minute walk from the Noboribetsu Onsen town, providing magnificent landscapes clouded in bursts of ominous steam. There are several walking trails around the hills and valley incorporating the various local sights and natural attractions. Nearby volcanic activity is the source of the area’s hot steam vents, spring waters, and Oyunuma, a sulfurous pond (with a temperature of around 50 degrees Celcius) that creates natural hot streams flowing through the forest – perfect for a mid-hike footbath to revive tired feet. The most popular time to visit is around mid-October when the autumn colors reach their peak, and just before the first snow fall arrives. Whilst the hot springs are open all year round, take into account that some of the higher trails might not be accessible during the winter months.

HOW TO GET THERE If you’re arriving at New Chitose Airport you can take an Airport Limousine Bus directly to the Noboribetsu Onsen, or drive from Sapporo City in approximately 90 minutes. www.noboribetsu-spa.jp

EDO TOWNS MAGOME AND TSUMAGO IN THE KISO VALLEY, NAGANO Magome and Tsumago are old post towns along Nakasendou, an ancient road connecting Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo period. Both towns have preserved their historical charms, with electrical wires and modern conveniences mostly hidden from view, creating an almost authentic Edo atmosphere (don’t worry, the ryokan inns are up to speed with all mod cons). The high end of Magome offers panoramic views over the mountains, but while picturesque, it has a more touristy feel in comparison to Tsumago, which boasts a shrine, temple and castle amongst its assets. If trekking in the outdoors is your thing, then you can follow an eight-kilometer walking trail connecting the two towns, with a handy luggage forwarding service offered at each of the local tourist offices. Download an English hiking map at tinyurl.com/TWnakasendou-hike

HOW TO GET THERE Despite the rural setting, there are multiple ways to access the area. Highway buses to Magome run from Nagoya (90 minutes) and Tokyo (around 4.5 hours), or you can take the shinkansen followed by local trains to Nagiso via Nakatsugawa. Local bus services and taxis also operate between the towns and nearby stations.

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HACHIJOJIMA, IZU ISLANDS Palm trees, a warm climate all year round, and a jungle habitat – and all just an hour’s flight from Tokyo. If you’re looking for an alternative to an Okinawan getaway, then Hachijojima, the southernmost of the Izu islands, can offer you a slice of paradise surprisingly close to Tokyo. This unique subtropical island has cinematic ocean views, lush green mountains, and volcanic terrain with incredible scenery surrounding you in every direction. You can enjoy a wide variety of activities from diving and snorkeling with tropical fish amongst the coral to relaxing in one of the many natural onsen baths. Cultural attractions include the Native History and Traditional Crafts Museum, and the Osato district, which preserves some of the island’s darker history as an exile for criminals. If you’re still wanting more, how about a botanical park exhibiting rare glowing bioluminescent mushrooms?

HOW TO GET THERE The island has its own airport with three flights a day from Haneda Airport, but if you have time to spare and fancy relaxing on the water then you can take the 10.5-hour overnight Tokai Kisen ferry from Tokyo’s Takeshiba Terminal. www.tokaikisen.co.jp/english/

PALM TREES, A WARM CLIMATE ALL YEAR ROUND, AND A JUNGLE HABITAT

SEIGANTOJI PAGODA AND NACHI FALLS, WAKAYAMA A UNESCO World Heritage location incorporating Japan’s tallest waterfall (133m) and a series of religious sites including Kumano Nachi Taisha Shrine and the majestic three-story Seigantoji Pagoda. The close proximity of the structures is a rare example of the harmonious amalgamation of Buddhism and Shinto (known as shinbutsu shugo), which was commonplace before the two religions were forcefully separated in 1868. The site’s earliest incarnation was most likely as a place for nature worship, and for most of their history the buildings have functioned as one combined religious institution. The temple is the first stop of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, which covers 33 Buddhist temples, and is undoubtedly a rewarding location for any visitor who cares to make the trip.

HOW TO GET THERE The main shrine is a 30-minute bus ride from Kii-Katsuura Station, which is a 90-minute train journey from Shirahama Airport (direct flights from Haneda Airport), or about three to four hours if you’re traveling from Nagoya, Osaka or Kyoto. For a slightly more arduous pilgrimage, you could opt for a 10-hour bus ride from Shinjuku, straight to the Katsuura Onsen area. kumanonachitaisha.or.jp

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TOJINBO CLIFFS, FUKUI The rugged cliffs at Tojinbo are one of only three similar kinds of rock formations existing in the world.

The columnar rocks were originally formed around 13 million years ago from volcanic activity, further shaped by coastal erosion, making this a unique and dynamic part of the Fukui coastline stretching over one kilometer. Various local legends tell some macabre tales about ghosts haunting the area, but thankfully these days a retired police officer and volunteers are working together to prevent possible suicides and keep it a happier tourist destination. The awe-inspiring spot provides impressive views from the top of the cliffs, or if you want to get a closer look you can take a short pleasure boat trip around the rocks.

HOW TO GET THERE Traveling by train takes around four hours from Tokyo to Fukui Station, followed by another 45-minute journey to Mikuni Minato Station. From there, take a local bus arriving near the cliffs in about 10 minutes, or walk there in just over half an hour. Alternatively, you could make a 6.5-hour road trip from Tokyo. www.toujinbou-yuransen.jp

TOTTORI SAND DUNES, TOTTORI Spanning over 30 km², these spectacular sand dunes are the only example of this type of landscape in the country.

Ash and sediment from the mountains were brought into the sea from the Sendai River where sea currents and winds bring it up the shore, forming the constantly reshaping and rippling dunes. Hills of sand can reach heights of up to 50m offering remarkable views of the surrounding sea and land. Ten years ago a Sand Museum (www.sand-museum.jp/en) was opened, heralding itself as Japan’s only open-air museum exhibiting “sand sculptures,” which due to their medium are always temporary.

While the dunes have existed for over 100,000 years, recently their scale has noticeably decreased due to a various causes thought to include natural disasters as well as the high frequency of visitors to the area, so tread with caution.

HOW TO GET THERE Fly from Haneda Airport to Tottori Airport (75 minutes), then take a bus from the airport to Tottori Station (20 minutes). From the station, take a local bus bound for Tottori Sakyu and get off at the last stop (20 minutes). To get around the sand dunes you can enjoy camel riding or a tour in a horse-drawn carriage, and you can even try paragliding and sandboarding. www.tottori-tour.jp/en

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Change Your Workout

Need to burn some calories, but bored of your standard training sessions? Over the next five pages, we round up five Japanese martial arts to try, along with some new fitness trends, gadgets, and workshops to keep you fit and inspired

M A RT IA L A RTS

Compiled by Dorothee Erle & Annemarie Luck

L

ast year’s fitness trend was all about less is more, with many choosing to do weight training from home, or to count the number of steps taken each day in lieu of taking time out for a jog around the block. But there’s something to be said for turning your workout into a sociable occasion and joining a group class, especially if you’re new to the city, or simply feel like meeting new people. And since we’re in Japan, it makes sense to try something traditional. To that end, we’re recommending five martial arts to try, including a couple of classics as well as some more modern ones. Then, over the next few pages, we’ve collected a few fitness treats for those who love a good trend – or a good gadget.

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JIU JITSU If you prefer more action to meditation, Japanese jiu jitsu might be a good option for you. Developed by samurai warriors as a weaponless fighting technique to be used in times when they had no sword on hand, it’s considered to be one of the oldest Japanese martial arts. The jiu jitsu-ka learns to react quickly to an opponent’s attack, using their energy against them, and incapacitating them with techniques such as pins, joint locks and throws. In this sense, it’s a little like wrestling as it requires full body effort and contact, which also makes it ideal for strength and cardio training. The sport also focuses on breathing techniques, increases flexibility, and endurance.

WHERE TO TRY IT Axis Jiu Jitsu Academy, www.axisjj.com

KENDO

AIKIDO Derived at least partly from jiu jitsu, aikido is among the youngest of the traditional Japanese sports. As the “ai” in “aikido” indicates, it focuses on peaceful resolution of a conflict. Another big aspect is self-development. While aikido is always practiced with a partner, there are generally no competitions, and the movements are almost like a choreography. Aikido is great for a full body workout – although beware there is a bit of throwing and falling involved, so you might end up with a few bruises. It is much more predictable than jiu jiutsu, though, so it allows the practitioner to reach a state of relaxation.

In aikido, the opponent’s power is used against him or her, which makes it a good option for all ages and levels as superior strength is not required.

WHERE TO TRY IT Aikikai Foundation, www.aikikai.or.jp/eng/index.html

Although this modern Japanese martial art, which got its start in the 1800s but was only officially named kendo in 1920, is mostly associated with samurai-style sword fighting, kendoka (kendo practitioners) use wooden swords called bokken rather than sharp blades. As etiquette plays an important role, every fight begins and ends with an exchange of formal bows. A kendo bout is only five minutes long, and ends when one kendoka twice strikes the other on a designated strike zone (head, trunk, forearm, and the part of the throat just beneath the chin).

A short yell, called kiai, is uttered each time a strike is made. Besides improved strength, endurance and overall fitness, kendo sharpens the mind and reactive abilities.

WHERE TO TRY IT Tokyo Kyumeikan Kendo Dojo, kyumeikan.info

KYUDO With origins dating back to the Yayoi period (300 BCE to 300 CE), Japanese archery was developed into the art form kyudo during the Edo period. For many, a sign of a good kyudoka is an aura of serenity, hence mental training comes first, followed later by attempting to hit the target, which stands 28m away from you, and is only 36cm in diameter. If you hit the target, everyone shouts “sha,” which means “arrow” or “shot.” Interestingly, in Japanese archery, the kyudoka always shoots two arrows in succession.

They rotate in opposite directions and can be seen as a “female” and a “male” arrow. With its focus on mindset, kyudo can be viewed as a kind of moving meditation, and so is especially recommended for those seeking a spiritual way of training body and mind.

WHERE TO TRY IT Koto-ku Kyudo Renmei, kokyuren.com/english.html, or Shinjuku-ku Archery Association, shinjuku-archery.com/index.html

IAIDO This martial art got its start in the 1500s, and is performed with a Japanese long sword called katana. However, the focus is not on combat but rather on being present, aware, and being able to swiftly draw one’s sword in order to respond to a surprise attack. The iaidoka learns how to react to an endless set of situations, ending their motion with the re-sheathing of the sword. In a way, iaido is more about choreography and defense than attack, with the focus being on the development of a focused and clear mind, calm nerves, and balance of the body.

WHERE TO TRY IT Isokai, www.mugairyu.jp/english/index.html

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T RENDS

TRX SUSPENSION TRAINING

SURFSET FITNESS If you love surfing, this “so hot right now” workout might pale in comparison to the real thing. But for Tokyoites, who don’t have the luxury of living ten minutes from the beach, Surfset Fitness is the closest you’re going to get to feeling the freedom – and getting the kind of toned body – that comes with the water sport. Founded

by Californian Mike Hartwick, this unique form of exercise has made, erm, waves around the world, and arrived in Tokyo just a few months ago in the form of a neat little studio in Ginza, complete with boards for decoration, a sun-filled workout space packed with elevated surfboards, and a temperature of 33 degrees Celsius.

Climb onto the RipSurfer X – which is strapped to a metal frame and balances on Bosu balls to simulate the feeling of being on water – and prepare to squat, “paddle”, wobble, and jump into the surfing position. We tried the 45-minute beginner class, which is enough to make your muscles feel stiff the next morning, but there are more advanced classes for those who really want to challenge their core stability.

WHERE TO TRY IT Book a trial class at Surf Fit Japan (sorry guys, but the classes are for women only), surffit.jp

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This bodyweight system has already been around for a while, but it’s hit the spotlight lately thanks to the industry’s recent focus on “functional training.” TRX was developed by an American Navy Seal, Randy Hetrick, who created stretchy straps inspired by those used on parachutes. The key difference between TRX and your average gym machine is that you’re effectively using your own body as a machine. Your movements are not limited to one plane, and you can adjust the straps to make the moves more challenging. Best of all, if you buy your own set of straps, you can take them with you wherever you go.

WHERE TO TRY IT Maga Gym, www.magagym.com, and Club 360, www.club360.jp/fit-360

AERIAL AND ACRO YOGA Take your yoga skills to the next level with two unique forms of the practice: aerial and acro. While the latter combines acrobatic elements with yoga and often requires a partner, aerial yoga is performed with a soft hammock and sees you holding asana poses in the air – hence it’s often referred to as anti-gravity yoga. We think acro yoga is ideal for couples’ bonding, but if you’ve ever dreamt of being a circus acrobat, it’s aerial yoga all the way.

WHERE TO TRY IT Acro Yoga Japan, acroyogajapan.tokyo, and Anti Gravity Fitness, antigravityfitness.jp

ULTIMATE PILATES A

lthough we don’t look quite as impressive as famed pilates instructor Kathi Ross-Nash on a Reformer (below), we went along to Maki Okazaki’s Pilates Aoyama studio to take a bash at mastering the mechanics of pilates apparatus. While we’ve tried a mat class in the past, taking a private lesson with Okazaki gave us exclusive access to the impressive equipment, orginally developed by Joseph H. Pilates himself.

Our favorite machine? Definitely the Cadillac, a six-foot tall structure that has all sorts of bells and whistles. It can be used for anything from rehab work to acrobatic tricks. With gentle but precise guidance, Okazaki (right) took us through a series of controlled stretches, making sure we pinched our core muscles and properly rolled the spine with breathing techniques. Although we didn’t manage to try the “inverted hanging pike” (one day!), the session was enough to make us feel lengthened and strengthened.

Besides the Cadillac, Okazaki’s studio boasts other equipment too, including the Reformer and the Ladder Barrel.

Okazaki, who speaks English and is passionate about the work she does, will be sure to ask you about any injuries you may have, before tailoring the exercises to suit your needs and skill level. The machines provide a total body workout to help you stay flexible, improve your

balance, and maintain a powerful core.

They are also excellent for rehabilitation.

Okazaki – who is a second-generation pilates master, and studied in New York with students of Joseph H. Pilates including Romana Kryzanowska, Kathy Grant, and Lolita San Miguel – founded Pilates Aoyama in 2005 and works with dancers, athletes, and businessmen.

"Most of my clients are non-Japanese, and half of them are men," she tells us.

"Pilates helps them with recovery after injuries, enhances sports performance, and strengthens the entire body, while also helping to correct alignment." The ultimate goal, however, is balancing body, mind, and spirit, and Okazaki's method goes beyond just putting your body in motion: "We offer a holistic experience, because it's not just your fitness; it's about your life."

JOIN A WORKSHOP WITH LOLITA SAN MIGUEL In February, Okazaki will host a threeday workshop featuring Lolita San Miguel – who studied under Joseph H. Pilates. It will include lectures as well as mat and equipment exercises, and will run for six hours per day from February 3-5 (one-day participation is possible).

40 spots, ¥32,000 per day, apply by emailing info@pilatesaoyama.com. More info at pilatesaoyama.com

A 60-minute private session at Pilates Aoyama costs ¥10,000 (no membership fee required). Book a slot between 6.30am and 8pm by emailing info@pilatesaoyama.com or calling 03 5411 1147. The studio is five minutes from Omotesando Station; more information at pilatesaoyama.com Kathi Ross-Nash

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T REND S T ECH HYPERICE VYPER As warm-up and recovery are just as important as training, the Vyper by HyperIce focuses on just that. The vibrating foam roller relaxes muscles through a deep tissue massage. The device gets the circulation going pre-workout, but its main purpose is the release of knots, muscle pain and aches. hyperice.com/vyper.html

CLUB 360 IS GENUINELY THE FIRST GYM THAT HAS LISTENED TO MY NEEDS AND TAKEN A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO MY BODY AND LIFESTYLE. I CAME IN WITH CHRONIC BACK AND HIP PAIN FROM YEARS OF SITTING IN OFFICES, BUT I AM NOW PAIN FREE – PAUL

THE 360-DEGREE APPROACH

W

hen you log onto Club 360’s website, one of the first things you’ll notice is their focus not just on fitness classes but also on physiotherapy, sports massage, and healthy living. Their expert team is made up of personal trainers and therapists who are all dedicated to the 360 approach: ensuring you develop both a healthy body and mind. Whether you choose to join a group boxing class, an outdoor bootcamp session (begins at the picturesque Arisugawa Park in Hiroo), or you’d prefer more individualized, one-on-one training, you are guaranteed to leave feeling like a better version of yourself. We also love the fact that there are qualified physiotherapists on hand, so should you be recovering from an injury, your workout, treatment and rehabilitation can all happen in one spot.

They even offer a 360 Wellness for Life Program, which helps cancer patients manage chemotherapy side effects through prescribed exercise and oncology massage.

Cma3 Building B1, 3-1-35 Motoazabu, Minato-ku. www.club360.jp

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ZEPP 2 3D SWING ANALYZER For those who want to improve their golfing skills, the Zepp 2 3D Swing Analyzer is the way to go. The device is worn on a golf glove and analyzes your swings, giving an instant evaluation.

It also helps you improve your future swings with the help of its Smart Coach training system. www.zepp.com

MOOV NOW This gadget is more than just your ordinary fitness tracker.

The water and dust proof device, which can be worn around your wrist or ankle, can be connected to your smartphone, where it not only measures your fitness level and counts your reps, it also acts as a real time personal coach. welcome.moov.cc

You’re Going to Love Our New App The ultimate guide to Tokyo’s daily events, news, restaurants, personalities and opinions – by the people who know it best.

Download the Tokyo Weekender app for free from iTunes or Google Play.

More information at www.tokyoweekender.com

BE I N S P I R E D If you haven't yet met Sony's robot dog, Aibo, head to the Sony Building for an exhibition that looks back at the electronic giant's history. Plus, a David Bowie retrospective, and a Naked 3D projection mapping extravaganza.

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Courtesy the David Bowie Archive © Victoria & Albert Museum, London

ART & FILM

DAV I D BOW I E I S Finally making its way to Tokyo after a very successful world tour, this retrospective on the career of David Bowie is a treasure trove of memorabilia for fans of the iconic artist. More than 300 objects, from handwritten lyrics, costumes, photographs, set designs, artwork and rare performance material make up the exhibit. Fifty years of work is collected here, eulogizing Bowie’s creative breadth and influence, one style at a time. Warehouse Terrada Until April 9 davidbowieis.jp

THE ART WORLD

OU R PIC K O F T H E C I T Y’S B ES T EXHI B I T I ONS Compiled by Luca Eandi

I T’ S A SON Y The Sony Building has been a familiar sight in Ginza for 50 years, and before it is torn down to make way for Sony Park in 2018, the electronics giant is looking back at its own prolific history with “It’s a Sony.” The exhibit features hundreds of products, gadgets and marketing materials from Sony’s 70 years in operation, including the first color TV, the iconic Walkman, the robot dog Aibo, and many others.

Sony Building Until March 31 www.sonybuilding.jp/e/ginzasonypark/event

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“Amusement park made from robot arms” from “Robot City” © Tatsuya Tanaka

F I LM Three top Japan-related Hollywood movies set for release in 2017

SILENCE

ROBOTIC ART IN GINZA Mitsubishi Electric shows off its latest creation at the Metoa exhibition space, and it’s sure to make you wonder what our future robot overlords will be like. Witness a robot dance performance, a robot mimicking a giraffe, and a live digital light painting crafted in real time, all courtesy of Mitsubishi’s manufacturing robot arms. If that’s not enough, enjoy the works of miniature master Tatsuya Tanaka, whose intricate dioramas are also on display. Metoa Ginza Until January 15, www.metoa.jp/event/roboticart-in-ginza

A film Martin Scorsese’s been trying to make for almost three decades. The renowned director was on the shinkansen heading towards Kyoto back in 1989 when he first read Shusaku Endo’s novel Silence.

The story follows two Jesuit priests sent to Nagasaki during the Edo period to investigate claims that their mentor has committed apostasy. Stars Andrew Garfield, Adam Driver and Liam Neeson.

GHOST IN THE SHELL A tale about a cyborg counter-cyberterrorist unit based on Masamune Shirow’s manga of the same name. An international task force unit known as Public Security Section 9 must thwart a new enemy trying to sabotage Hanka Robotics’ artificial intelligence technology. Stars Scarlett Johansson, Michael Pitt and Beat Takeshi.

TOKYO A RT C I T Y BY NA K E D Specializing in 3D projection mapping art, Naked is best known for light-up displays at Tokyo Station and Omotesando Hills. For this new show, the art group headed by Ryotaro Muramatsu will reprise its city-themed collage style and philosophy that “the city is art” with snapshots of projected Tokyo landmark buildings. Additionally, the artists’ “Tokyo Hikari Vision” work will be reproduced at a smaller scale on a model of Tokyo Station.

Shibuya Hikarie Until January 21 tokyoartcity.tokyo

THE OUTSIDER An action thriller set in post WWII Japan that tells the story of a former American GI who gets sucked into the criminal underworld after a cellmate from the yakuza helps with his release from prison. Stars Tadanobu Asano, Shiori Kutsuna and Jared Leto

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN JANUARY 1 JAN 31

2 JAN 4-31

PJ HARVEY Two-time Mercury Prize winner Polly Jean Harvey returns to Tokyo for her first, long-awaited performance in the metropolis since 1995.

Where: Orchard Hall How much: ¥12,500 More info: www.creativeman.co.jp and tokyoweekender.com

3 JAN 1-21 THE PEOPLE BY KISHIN

Renowned photographer Kishin Shinoyama exhibits stunning portraits of celebrities and common folk from his illustrious five-decade career.

Where: Yokohama Museum of Art How much: ¥1,500 More info: kishin-yokohama.com

6 JAN 1-15

5 JAN 7-15 FURUSATO MATSURI TOKYO Taste specialties from Japan’s many prefectures all in one spot, with special consideration given to donburi, ramen, sake, and beer.

Where: Tokyo Dome How much: ¥1,600 More info: www.tokyo-dome.co.jp

THE RETURN OF HOKUSAI This museum’s opening collection celebrates the life and works of legendary Japanese woodblock printing artist Katsushika Hokusai.

Where: Sumida Hokusai Museum How much: ¥1,200 More info: hokusai-museum.jp

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JB BLUNK EXHIBITION A rare chance to see more than 30 ceramics produced with natural materials by legendary Northern California artist, J.B. Blunk – his first show in Japan since 1954.

Where: Blum & Poe How much: Free More info: www.blumandpoe.com

7 JAN 1-31

4 JAN 1-26 KENJI MIZOGUCHI & YASUZO MASUMURA FILM FESTIVAL Classic films with women as protagonists are the focus of this festival featuring the work of two masterful Japanese directors.

Where: Kadokawa Cinema Shinjuku How much: ¥1,600 More info: cinemakadokawa.jp

8 JAN 7-8

JOMONESQUE JAPAN 2016

HERMETO PASCOAL

5,000-year-old Jomon-era pottery is on display in this exhibition featuring flame-style pots, clay figures and stone rods.

Where: Kokugakuin University Museum How much: Free More info: museum.kokugakuin.ac.jp

80-year-old Brazilian jazz music legend Hermeto Pascoal brings his wildly creative and transgressive compositions to Tokyo.

Two sets per night.

Where: WWW X, Shibuya How much: ¥8,500 More info: frue.jp

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9 JAN 15-16 SETAGAYA BOROICHI An intangible folk cultural asset, this flea market’s been going strong for over 400 years and features around 700 stalls hawking everything imaginable.

Where: Boroichi-dori How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com

11 JAN 1-14 AMANA PLATINUM PRINTS EXHIBITION The various benefits of durable platinum photographic prints are exulted in this exhibition

by Amanasalto, Japan’s top practitioner of platinotypes.

Where: Ima Concept Store How much: Free More info: imaonline.jp

10 JAN 12-15 WIDE EYED THEATRE COMPANY: A FAERIE TALE Enjoy a tale of magic, deceit and betrayal with this interactive, promenade-style play performed in English.

Where: Nakano F How much: ¥3,000 More info: www.wideeyedtc.com

12 JAN 16 HARVARD GLEE CLUB For the first time in 24 years and only the third time ever, America’s oldest collegiate men’s chorus club is set to make its longawaited return to Japan.

Where: Kioi Hall How much: ¥3,500-¥5,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com

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People, Parties, Places TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY

Takako Vosman, Steve Haynes, & Reme Bosman

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t’s Sunday, December 3, and thanks to the holidays, we’re working ahead – way ahead this time – to make our January issue deadline. Where does the time go? Tokyo’s gone all out to look its best over the holidays. I do hope you were able to get together with family and friends and check out some of the beautiful decorations at churches, shopping malls, restaurants, parks, hotels, and more. Many were truly amazing.

Looking ahead, it’s going to be a busy January with a full schedule of interesting things to see and do. These include good movies, plus a variety of music from pop to classic, several good stage plays, lots of art exhibitions, sports events, Japanese festivals, fashion shows, and I’m sure as always after the holidays, some great bargain sales.

Many of my friends travel over the holidays and hopefully enjoyed wherever they went and whatever they did. I enjoy Christmas and New Year’s here, but will also try and head out for Guam, the Philippines, Thailand and/or Sri Lanka, and take advantage of the warm weather in a few of those places while it’s cold here.

Some of the highlights of my end-of-year activities included working with the Weekender, Hilton Tokyo, Coca Cola, Mercedes Benz, Sony, Walt Disney, Toho-Towa, Lufthansa, Tohoku Shinsha, and 20th Century Fox, as well as all the wonderful warm, caring and giving friends who helped with setting up the 19th annual Christmas party for less fortunate kids from six different schools. This event took place at the Hilton Tokyo. Mike Williamson, GM at the Hilton, and the Hilton staff have all been super generous with food, gifts,

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services and attitude. The kids this year (six to 12) were fantastic.

A big thanks as well to Steve Haynes (Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer), Rene Boseman (Santa Claus), and Hiroshi Watabe (Michael Jackson).

Talking about talent, the party closed with the ambassadors’ wives and the cream of Tokyo society joining the entertainers and children in singing and dancing to the Village People’s “Y.M.C.A.” A big and very sincere thanks to all who helped make the holiday season a very happy one for so many. God bless you all.

TREK-SEGAFREDO EVENT – HIROO To celebrate the success of Trek-Segafredo in Japan, Segafredo Zanetti Japan paid homage to the cycling team and to the Rio gold medal winner, Fabian Cancellara, as he bid farewell to professional cycling. The event was a marvelous get together for cycling lovers at the newly decorated Trek-Segafredo Café in Hiroo. Guests included Fabian Cancellara, the new Swiss ambassador with his wife and daughter, Japanese professional road racer Fumiyuki Beppu, all the Trek-Segafredo members, members of the press, and fans of the racers. It was a colorful, exciting event with the sports superstars – a really special event.

ILBS’S CHARITY CHRISTMAS BAZAAR Happy to report that the International Ladies Benevolent Society’s annual Christmas Bazaar at the Tokyo American Club was, as

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HILTON, WEEKENDER, HERSEY CHARITY PARTY 1. Hilton Tokyo’s G.M. Mike Williamson 2. Santa (Rene Boseman) his wife Takako and daughter Nana, and great kids 3. Maali Siam (Palestine) 4. Itsumi Sano 5. Lynn Lai 6. Katerina Karatsolis (Greece), Kyoko Fujisawa (Yodobashi Camera), Beatrice Correa du Lago (Brazil), Kumiko Meric (Turkey), Kyoko Spector 7. Guardian Angels Keiji Oda, Lilo Maruyama 8. (Yodobashi) Kyoko Fujisawa, Bill & Beatrice. 9. The Ireton family, Michael (Hiroshi Watabe) 10. Anna Shiga 11. Wahida Fatime (Afghanisan) 12.

Rachadawan Lathapip, Yupadee Bunnag (Thailand) 13. Cristina Escala (Peru) 14.

Steve Haynes

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SAUDI NATIONAL DAY 7. Ceremony’s Tsukasa Shiga.

UAE Amb. Khalid Al Ameri, Qatar Amb. Yousef Bilal, Bahrain Amb. Dr. Khalil Hassan, Ros Roman Ji 8. Sara Matasie, Ms. Qari, Foreign Correspondents’ Club President Khaldon Azhari, Saudi Cultural Office Hakima Bathawi, Dr. Amani Al Hibshi (NEC) 9. Al Ain Restaurants’ Ziad D. Karam 10. Pakistan Defense Atache Shirez Khan, the host Saudi Amb. Ahmad Younos S. Al Barrak Dr. Muhammad Abdur Rahman Siddiqil (Int’l Muslim Center)

ILBS CHRISTMAS BAZAAR 1. Hisako Inayama, Mary Katayama 2. Clara Nakasato, Fumiko Tottori, Candy Sato 3. Ana Maria Diaz (Colombia), Lolita, Irina Spassky, Barbara Allen 4. ILBS President Daniele Yoshikoshi, Kumiko Oshima, Beverly Nakamura 5. Princesses Noriko & Ayako 6. Tomoko Takada, Alifah Rahman Yamasaki

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AT THE MERICS’ TURKISH RECEPTION

GOLD MEDAL CYCLISTS EVENT – SEGAFREDO

11. Irish Amb. Anne Barrington with Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force Petty Officer Yuko Naito and Rear Admiral Takehisa Nakao 12. The hosting couple Turkish Amb. A. Bulent Meric, his wife Kumiko and Akie Abe 13. Gonzato Gonzales (Venezuela), Bosnia Herzegovina Amb. Anesa Kundurović, Karen Muradell (Honduras) and David Villagomez (Ecuador) 14. Pakistan Amb. Farukh Amil, Kyoko Spector, Afrah and Hassan Sarwar

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15. Yulia Gusynina Paroz, LydieLine, their daughter Lydie-Line, Swiss Amb. Jean-Francois Paroz 16. Segafredo CEO, Pascal Heritier and the company’s rep. Director and head of Asian Region Brian Mori 17. Olympic (Rio) gold medal winner Fabian Cancellara with Jean-Francois Paroz

always, a super success. The many charitable, hard-working ILBS ladies working at the busy bazaar got into the holiday fashion mood (lots of red!), and raised a considerable amount of money that, together with their many projects, goes to a variety of worthwhile causes. My dear friend Daniele Yoshikoshi, who is president of ILBS, was at the helm this year, and I was sure that she and the others who put so much time and effort into the project would make it one of the biggest and best bazaars ever.

I appreciated Princess Takamado’s mother, Fumiko Tottori, introducing two of her three granddaughters, Princess Noriko and Princess Ayako. Like their late and great father, Prince and Princess Takamado are really cool, and very internationally minded. A big congratulations to them and the ILBS ladies for yet another charity project well done.

THE MERICS’ TURKISH NATIONAL DAY Going back a bit, it was wall-to-wall people at Turkish Ambassador Ahmet Bulent Meric’s National Day party. Bulent and his wife Kumiko are a popular couple and guests included Akie Abe, the wife of Prime Minister Abe, who was super chic for the event. In addition to the bountiful buffet of Turkish food in the dining room, tents had been set up in the garden where they were serving the popular traditional Turkish kebab. It was a thoroughly enjoyable evening in every way.

SAUDI NATIONAL DAY – PALACE HOTEL Our Saudi friends celebrated their national day at a noon-time reception at the luxurious Palace Hotel. In addition to relaxing and chatting with long-time friends, I met several VIPs for the first time.

These included UAE Ambassador Khalid Omran Al Ameri. Thanks to former Ambassador Al Mokarrab, I’ve had the privilege of visiting his country seven times – once for the UAE’s 20th anniversary, another time for their 25th anniversary, and the rest just to visit friends living there. On one trip, we drove to all seven of the Emirates.

Thanks to another very capable diplomat and good friend, Saudi Ambassador Al-Shobokshi, and the Saudi national guard, I was a guest in their country for the annual Jenadriyah culture festival. I visited Riyadh and Jeddah, and a young officer of the National Guard took me to visit his “uncle’s” camp in the desert. After dinner under a big tent, half a dozen of his nephews sang and danced. They also surprised me by giving me some beautiful Arab clothes to wear. After joining in an unrehearsed dance, I went over to the “uncle” and said, “I feel like Lawrence of Arabia.” He laughed and said, “You look like Saddam Hussein.” The next night, my guide took me to meet two young singers whom he introduced as the Michael Jacksons of Saudi Arabia.

The national day at the palace was very special. Our congratulations to Ambassador Al Barrak, his staff, and the Sau-

Team Trek, Olympic cyclists Gregory Rast, Jasper Stuyven, Bauke Mollema

di people. It was also great getting to know Dr. Muhammad Abdur Rahman Siddiqi, the chairman of the International Muslim Center in Japan, and I appreciated his invitation to the 9th International Peace Seminar on Prophet Muhammad. The seminar was titled “Islamic Perspective on Terrorism” and featured guest speaker Rayyan Fawzi Arab.

CEREMONY’S BIRTHDAY DINNER FOR SHIGA I hadn’t heard of Jisaku Tsukiji restaurant, but when I received an invitation to celebrate there with Ceremony’s president Tsukasa Shiga, I knew it would be something special. Tsukasa and his family always choose the best. It was his birthday, and the restaurant – which is on the river and has about 19 tatami rooms, interesting rock formations, goldfish-filled ponds, and many statues – is Japan at its best. The multicourse Japanese meal included their speciality chicken. I would definitely recommend you try it out while you’re in Tokyo: Jisaku Tsukiji, 14-19 Akashi-cho, Chuo-ku, 03-3541-2391.

HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS Tokyo does slow down a bit for Japanese New Year (Shogatsu), but if you live here, you know how busy it is the rest of the time. With all the happenings before the 2020 Olympics, we’re seeing all kinds of overnight changes. The “Roppongi clean up” campaign is working on the north side, with Midtown, museums, shops and restaurants all getting a facelift, and big new buildings going up everywhere.

A perfect place to see what’s happening is around the popular Franciscan Chapel Center Catholic Church. Directly across from the chapel, a big new apartment building is being built, and a few minutes’ walk from there, a huge new building that will house a much-needed modern police station is under construction. I recently talked with one foreigner and one Japanese local who were each wearing fashionable uniforms with armbands that read “Minato-ku Safety and Security.” They told me their main job is helping tourists with directions, or helping people with any problems they might have in Roppongi. (Both, I might add, were big enough to handle any kind of trouble they might come up against.)

On the south side of Roppongi (Tokyo Tower, Roppongi Hills), change seems to be a bit slower. However, thanks to the late great land developer Minoru Mori, they do have the Roppongi Hills mall with its theaters, shops, restaurants and super art museum. Morisan also bought the land down the hill behind dear Dr. Eugene Aksenoff ’s famous clinic, and they seem to be working on plenty of new buildings in that area. I’m sure they’ll soon clear out or at least clean up the big old Roi Building across the street from Don Quixote.

Just for your information, my club-going friends tell me that they don’t go to Roppongi that much any more; these days they prefer Shibuya for food, nightlife and fun. I plan to get out and check things out in the new year, and will keep you posted on many of the changes in our ever-evolving city.

Segafredo CEO (center) Pascal Heritier with super Hiroo Segafredo staff

Bill with team member Fumuyuki Beppu

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