Tokyo Weekender - February 2017

FEBRUARY 2017

Japan’s number one English language magazine

THE PEOPLE OF

OKINAWA MEET THREE LOCALS WHO REPRESENT THE COLORFUL AND CREATIVE ENERGY OF THE ISLANDS

PLUS: Peek Inside Love Hotels, Snowsurfing in Fukushima, and Is Japan Biased Against Those with Disabilities?

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21 NAHA NIGHTS

8 AREA GUIDE: NAKAMEGURO

Planning a visit to Okinawa? Here are five reasons to choose Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha as your luxurious base.

Things to see on the banks of the Meguro River, including a brand-new "mall."

24 BEHIND CLOSED DOORS

THIS MONTH’S HEAD TURNERS

10 STYLE A few pretty little things to help brighten up pre-spring days.

As everyone everywhere celebrates love this month, we chat with photographer Zaza Bertrand about her new photo book, which reveals intimate moments from inside Japan's love hotels.

12 BEAUTY Three moisturizing products and three head spa treatments to rescue tired tresses.

in-depth COFFEE-BREAK READS 15 THE PEOPLE OF OKINAWA We meet three talented locals who represent the colorful and creative energy of Okinawa.

28 JAPAN'S FORGOTTEN ONES Last year's Sagamihara massacre highlighted the country's ongoing bias against people with disabilities. We investigate the reasons behind the discrimination.

30

guide & education CULTURE ROUNDUP, AND OUR FEBRUARY EDUCATION SPECIAL 34 ART & COMEDY Our pick of the city's best exhibitions, plus three comedy shows to keep you laughing.

36 AGENDA Chocolate heaven, a stimulating projection mapping show, and a friendly fun run.

38 EDUCATION SPECIAL How the British School in Tokyo is still achieving top results, and Aoba Japan International School is creating global citizens.

30 SURFING THE SNOW Snowsurfing is enjoying a global revival, and Fukushima's powdery backcountry is the perfect place to try it.

42 PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES National Day celebrations and a few fond farewells to old friends.

F EBRUA RY 2017

radar

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F E B R U A R Y 2 0 17 Publisher

ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

President

Takanobu Ushiyama

Executive Producers

Asi Rinestine Naoya Takahashi

Editor in Chief Senior Editor

Annemarie Luck Alec Jordan

Creative Director Features Writer Contributors

Liam Ramshaw Matthew Hernon Vivian Morelli Luca Eandi Bill Hersey Bunny Bissoux

Sales Director Sales Executives

Takaaki Murai Hirofumi Ohuchi Kahori Terakawa Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Yu Suzuki

Media Strategist Media Consultant Media Relations Media Producers

Mandy Lynn Mary Rudow Junko Shimaya Jessica "Yumi" Idomoto Claudia Sun

EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 SSU Bld. 1F 4-12-8 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku Tokyo, Japan 151-0051 (03) 6432-9948 / (03) 6438-9432 (fax) editor@tokyoweekender.com To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6432-9948 or email: customer-support@tokyoweekender.com For ad sales inquiries, please call (03) 6432-9948 or email: sales@tokyoweekender.com 広告に関するお問い合わせ先 電話：(03) 6432-9948 メール：sales@tokyoweekender.com Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher

Published by ENGAWA Co., Ltd.

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@bapawn: Annemarie, if you had to choose between a tropical getaway in Okinawa or getting radical on the slopes of northern Honshu [page 30] for a February holiday, which would you choose? @mizrama: I would have to choose Okinawa, for two reasons: I will always pick beach over mountains, and I’ve only been skiing three times since moving to Japan, so “getting radical” is not really part of my repertoire on the slopes. How about you? @bapawn: Actually, I’ve never gone skiing or snowboarding before, so I only feel entitled to use the phrase “getting radical” because I’m from California … I think I’d take Okinawa as well. As much as the weather down there is lovely, the people seem so too. @mizrama: Yes, I think our cover feature [page 15] proves that. I love the story of karate master Masaaki Ikemiyagi … how he admits to getting into fights as a

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teen, but found humility through karate. I think our cover shot of him really expresses that. @bapawn: I still haven’t been, but it just seems like there’s some kind of mysterious romance to Okinawa. @mizrama: So Valentine’s month would be the perfect time to visit. It’s probably also a good time to visit a love hotel, for those who want to spice things up. Although Zaza Bertrand’s photo series about love hotels [page 26] does show them in a slightly different light to how they’re usually portrayed. @bapawn: That was a fascinating interview, and I’d really like to see more of her photo series. I thought her perspectives on this uniquely Japanese phenomenon were quite insightful. @mizrama: And the sheer number of them around town certainly contradict all those “sexless Japan” stories...

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T OKYO WE E KE N DE R | FE B R UA RY 2 0 1 7 | 5

6 | F E B R UARY 2 0 1 7 | TOKYO W E E K E NDE R

WH AT ’ S O N O U R RA DA R TH I S MONTH . . .

Check out Nakameguro's new mall of restaurants under the railway, buy a little sexy something, and give your hair the attention it deserves.

8 A R E A GU I D E

1 0 ST YLE

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AREA GUI DE

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

W E N D N A D L O O R U G E M A K IN NA

MING OSSO L B A D’S B RA N THERE A , G M N O I I N B LO N C LU D E R I E S VER, I REN’T I A R E AT S O E R GU TRE CUTE E Y H M R T I R E E W OF TH HE CH ILLED B A N KS RA I LWAY F HEN T E W H N T Eandi E EV THE Y ON y Luca T b R I s E N h D p U UN otogra COMM PA C E and ph NEW S Words

WHAT’S IN STORE The neighborhood’s businesses cater to artists, designers and celebrities who have put down roots here, making for an eclectic mix of boutiques. EEL sells high quality clothing like simple jeans, button-ups and jackets. The Mix has vintage men’s and women’s wear.

1LDK carries local and international brands of outerwear and accessories, while Vase specializes in lesser-known European labels. Irma Records|Merch Store deals in vinyl along with their own unique branded merchandise.

For knick-knacks, gifts and furnishings, Shop Detail has an array of quirky items. Tokyobike has a shop in the neighborhood to pick up some stylish wheels. And no visit to Nakameguro is complete without a visit to Cow Books for reading materials.

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One of Tokyo’s most scenic settings for hanami season, the Meguro River slices through Nakameguro, serving as the backbone of this thriving neighborhood. On top of being prime real estate for boutiques, restaurants and cafés, the riverside is a popular strolling path, as well as a pedestrian-friendly track for joggers and dog-walkers alike. Follow the river upstream to Meguro Sky Garden, by the Municipal Library, and you’ll be treated to a peaceful garden retreat 35 meters above the street with ample city views. Nearby, Saigoyama Park is an ideal green space for a sunny picnic, light sport activity or carefree people-watching.

RESTAURANTS Like any respectable Tokyo neighborhood, Nakameguro is teeming with great restaurants for a night out. Late last year, the selection grew even bigger with the opening of Nakameguro Koukashita (www.nakamegurokoukashita.jp), a 700m stretch of cafés, bars and eateries that runs underneath the raised railway tracks at Nakameguro Station. Here you can sample ramen, udon, sushi, Spanish cuisine, sake, and plenty of other culinary delights. Head away from the station to fine Craftale, which provides high-concept dining from a former Joël Robuchon chef. Along the same lines, Sourire does its version of Japanese-meets-French food. For something a little wilder, Yakiyama specializes in grilling game like pheasant, boar and deer. Xin Xian is a great spot for shabu-shabu, as is Kijima.

Award-winning pizzaiolo Hisanori Yamamoto got his training in Naples, which makes his Da Isa Pizzeria as authentic as you’ll find in Tokyo. One of the best Mexican spots in the city, Junkadelic, will sate your craving for enchiladas. Sun 2 Diner deals in American standards like hamburgers, sandwiches and BBQ.

GET HIP TO IT Nakameguro has a laid-back vibe within an urban setting, making it a natural fit for a younger, international, hip crowd. This translates into a remarkably high concentration of coffee shops in the neighborhood, including standouts Onibus, Streamer and a fresh branch of Blue Bottle. For coffee and books, head to the newly opened Nakameguro Koukashita where you can buy a latte and browse magazines at the sleek mini branch of Tsutaya Books. Charles Schulztribute Peanuts Cafe and the scenic Sidewalk Stand also offer up a tasty cup, as well as good lunch fare. For nut aficionados, Groovy Nuts is a specialty store serving raw and creatively flavored almonds, cashews, walnuts and more. There’s quite a few worldclass bakeries in the area as well – City Bakery, Ecole Criollo, Trasparente and Tavern, to name a few.

OPEN HOUSE Kyu Asakura House sits in Daikanyama, a fashionable quarter bordering Nakameguro.

The home and garden, commissioned in 1919 by Torajiro Asakura, a chairman of the Metropolitan Assembly, was used to conduct business and entertain guests. It’s an important cultural property, as it is one of the few remaining wooden houses in the area that survived the 1923 Great Kantō earthquake and carpet bombings during World War II. The architecture incorporates elements from the Meiji, Taisho and Showa eras and endures as an ideal specimen for those styles. A bonus for thrifty visitors – the house and surrounding gardens can be visited for the admission fee of a mere ¥100.

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STYLE JIMMY CHOO STILETTOS February may be the shortest month, but it can feel like the longest.

Therefore, bright and shiny things are needed to add some excitement to this otherwise dreary time of the year, like this pair of Jimmy Choo pumps. Crafted from smooth silver mirrored leather, they may seem a tad flashy at first sight, but they won't look out of place combined with a simple pair of jeans or little black dress. Equipped with a sleek stiletto heel and pointy toe, this classic Romy style won't, well, go out of style. jimmychoo.jp

B R IGHTE N UP P RE- SPRING DAYS WITH S O ME THIN G S HINY, SOM ETHING STYLISH, AN D SOM ETHING BLUE Compiled by Vivian Morelli

LA PERLA CHEMISE When it comes to lingerie, La Perla is the epitome of luxury. Instilled with a “made in Italy� heritage, the brand is synonymous with femininity, elegance and sophistication. This pale blue chemise is the perfect example of the label's skillful corsetry and meticulous detailing. Designed to hug your curves in all the right places, this piece is made from silky soft jersey and trimmed with lace. Pair it with the matching bra and briefs for an impeccable look. laperla.com

TOM FORD PERFUME You will be tempted to buy this not only based on the scent, but on the dreamy look of the bottle. Suitable for both men and women, this Tom Ford fragrance was inspired by the luxurious Italian Riviera resort of Portofino. Just like the coveted vacation spot, it oozes opulence and old-school glamour. The turquoise bottle is reminiscent of the Mediterranean Sea, and the top notes of this citrusy perfume are bergamot, orange, lemon and lavender. tomford.com

SMYTHSON CURRENCY CASE Smythson, known for its sumptuous stationery and leather goods, is once again winning at the accessories game with this color-trimmed and gold-zippered currency case. Ideal for the frequent traveler, it can be used to organize the different types of notes needed when hopping from one country to another.

It's also big enough to hold a passport, so this might be the most practical yet stylish airport companion. smythson.com

ISABEL MARANT ETOILE SCARF Although spring is right around the corner, there are still many weeks of cold weather ahead, and even though you promised yourself you won't be buying any more winter accessories, you might change your mind with this scarf.

Made from a blend of wool and cashmere, this frayed scarf from Isabel Marant's Etoile collection is a vivid mix of red, beige and black yarns. It will keep you warm until the start of spring, and probably even through hanami season. isabelmarant.com0

LA MER EYE GEL It's never a bad idea to pamper your skin, especially the delicate area around your eyes, during winter. The cold temperatures can leave your skin parched, and late nights out tend to easily show their effects. This hydrating eye gel from iconic skin care line La Mer comes to the rescue, as it combats signs of aging, fatigue and stress. Dab a tiny amount around your eyes morning and evening, and let the cooling effect soothe and revitalize your skin. cremedelamer.com

BE AU T Y OWAY COLORUP BY ROLLAND Perfect for color-treated hair is Oway’s all-natural, biodynamic and organic ColorUp Color Protection range. The Hair Mask and Veil contain biodynamic red grapevine and organic goji berries to revitalize hair fiber, retain color vibrancy and slow down hair aging – all this whilst keeping your hair soft and beautiful. For optimal results, we recommend the Hair Bath too, as it deeply cleanses and softens. Bonus: you’ll leave the house smelling like sweet plum – what’s not to love? Hair Bath, ¥3,400, Hair Mask, ¥3,200, Veil, ¥3,600, available from Assort Hair or via rolland-organic-onlineshop.office-taxi.jp.

More information at rolland.jp

S Y A D R I A H GOOD

OVE E OF L S O D T RA TS ODUC AN EX R S P D E E IR HES T NE IER HA . T RY T IN THA P R K P E S A T T H N I S IER, GW OT J U DURIN R SHIN O IT’S N E F R U S ENT OIST Luck emarie R E AT M AND M T d Ann n a A n P n y Ly EAD S Mand iled by AND H Comp

LORETTA BASE CARE OIL BY MOLTOBENE Japanese hair-care range Loretta, which features a line of waxes, styling milks, and oils, was originally created for use in hair salons, so know that the price tag indicates professional-grade quality. Their Base Care Oil is a leave-in treatment that has a soft rose fragrance (aromatherapy bonus!) and is super nourishing and moisturizing, helping to keep hair sleek and shiny all day. ¥2,600, www.loretta-jp.com

PREMIUM HEAD SPA AT ASSORT HAIR Taking luxury to a new level is international hair salon Assort Hair, with its Premium Head Spa that uses 100% organic and natural products by fair trade brand Oway (see products on opposite page). A hair consultation first determines the best suited products for you, after which you are treated to an application of scalp treatment oils, a special shampoo and treatment massage, and – the best part – a head and shoulder massage so relaxing we drifted off to Dreamland on our visit. ¥6,000, www.assort-hair.com

FLOW HEAD SPA AT VIP CREATIVE If stress is keeping you up at night, VIP Creative’s Flow Head Spa is just what you need. More than the usual feel-good treatment, this one incorporates traditional massage methods to relieve muscle stiffness, promote blood flow, and awaken the parasympathetic nervous system to ease you into a relaxed state whilst improving the body’s immune system.

From ¥4,000, www.vipcreativehair.jp

JEMILE FRAN MELTY BUTTER BY MILBON Launched last year, Japanese beauty brand Jemile Fran’s Melty Butter Balm and Melty Butter Beautifying Hair Treatment are ideal for the busy working lady – hair care that doubles up as a hair styling product.

The latter is great if you’re going for naturally loose curls, while the balm offers higher holding power.

Containing moringa butter, these treatments stimulate your scalp by increasing blood circulation whilst leaving your hair silky smooth.

Melty Butter Balm, ¥2,200, Melty Butter Beautifying Hair Treatment, ¥2,000, available at Hair Salon NALU or via www.jemilefran.jp

Special offer for first-time customers: Mention “Tokyo Weekender” to receive 20% off your treatment, or a complimentary Kerastase treatment (worth ¥3,000).

ULTRASONIC IRON TREATMENT AT HAIR SALON NALU While most iron treatments use heat, the Ultrasonic Iron Treatment at NALU uses intense vibrations (37,000 beats per second!) to separate protein, water and oil particles, allowing for deeper penetration into the hair structure, resulting in softer, more manageable locks. Recommended for hair damaged by chemicals. ¥7,560, www.nalu-style.com Follow us on Instagram @tokyoweekender to win a customized hair treatment at Hair Salon NALU.

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I S LA ND C H A R M There's more to Okinawa's beauty than meets the eye – there's a special kind of warmth and creativity in the people who live there. Over the next few pages we introduce you to three spirited locals who are helping to put the prefecture on the global map.

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[ PROMOTION ]

T HE PEO P L E OF OK IN AWA The islands of Okinawa are having a moment: tourist numbers are climbing as the world catches on to the prefecture's unspoilt beauty. But aside from its lush green nature and crystal clear ocean, what makes Okinawa so alluring? It's the people, of course. Weekender recently met three talented locals who represent the colorful and creative energy of the islands. Allow us to introduce you...

Words by John Amari

OKINAWAN KARATE IS MORE THAN MARTIAL ARTS. IT IS A WAY OF CULTIVATING THE SPIRIT

1 6 | F E BR UARY 2 0 1 7 | TOKYO W E E K E ND E R

THE KARATE MASTER: MASAAKI IKEMIYAGI

Photos by Richard Lee

Masaaki Ikemiyagi has an easy-going manner, but he was not always this jovial. By his own admission, he was a bit of a tearaway in his youth. Slight but feisty, the young Ikemiyagi was not one to back down from a fight. “I’m physically small. So I wanted to level the playing field, even with people who were larger than me.”

As a teen, he took up karate, joining a dojo (martial arts gym) in Naha, Okinawa, not far from his hometown, Nago City. Ikemiyagi’s parents were worried: wouldn't karate lead their boy further into trouble? But rather than encourage mayhem, training in karate leads to self-control, explains Ikemiyagi, who is now a master of Goju-ryu karate and teaches thousands of students from around the world.

“Thanks to karate, I became humble.”

Okinawa is the birthplace of karate. It is an indigenous art with a heritage that goes back to the local Ryukyu Kingdom (15th to 19th century). “Okinawan karate is more than martial arts,” says Master Ikemiyagi.

“It addresses the mind and body and teaches tenacity and dignity. It is a way of cultivating the spirit.” It's hard to believe that this gentle, welcoming 63-year-old was once a troublemaker. But there is another, more serious side to the Master, which unveils itself after he and I spend a few minutes engaging in kumite (free sparring)...

I throw a jab. Master Ikemiyagi parries and shifts out of the way like a cat. His left hand simultaneously clamps my outstretched arm in a vice-like grip, his right delivers a series of lightning strikes towards my neck. It's all a blur. Thankfully, this is not mortal combat. Shaken, but still standing, I throw a kick. The Master blocks with his right leg, and, using the same leg, strikes at the back of my standing leg, throwing me off balance. I feel completely at his mercy.

Master Ikemiyagi has a personality so magnetic that he may as well be 6 foot 5 inches tall. While small in stature, he is built like an ox; he kicks like a mule. When we move to the side of the dojo, where free weights, a punching bag, and a makiwara (a traditional, wooden “punch-pole”) are located, I discover something else about him: “I have a pretty strong punch, you know.” I believe him. His knuckles are calloused and

bulbous. And when he punches the makiwara, the ground shakes.

Next, we sit at a low table next to the dojo, which he built himself 37 years ago. I watch him, dressed in a white do-gi (martial arts uniform), as he gently but precisely draws Japanese calligraphy. His posture is erect, his legs folded beneath him. The Master’s favorite saying comes back to me, and it reflects why he loves karate: “When a flexible person defeats a strong person.”

I WANT PEOPLE

TO ALSO SAY KUSUINATAN, AN OKINAWA SAYING THAT MEANS KUSURINI NARIMASHITA (THE FOOD BECAME MEDICINAL)

THE CULINARY QUEEN: KATSUE WATANABE Katsue Watanabe is on a mission. She wants the world to know the secrets of Okinawan food and longevity. She also wants you not just to enjoy the region’s offerings, but to revel in their unique qualities. “Rather than just saying gochisousama (that was delicious), I want people to also say kusuinatan, an Okinawan saying that means kusurini narimashita (this food was good medicine).”

The people of Okinawa are rightfully proud of their legendary lifespans: the

prefecture has some of the highest longevity indices on Earth. Watanabe believes there are two reasons for this. The first is their approach to life: “‘Que sera, sera.' (What will be, will be.) Whether it’s a good or bad thing, that is our mentality. It contributes to our good health.” The second is Okinawan food. On a large table in Watanabe’s family-run hotel, 50 different items are immaculately laid out. The entire energy count is 585 calories, the equivalent of one anpan (a sweet roll filled with red bean paste).

Where to begin? I reach for a small glass of handmade soy milk. It’s almost like pure white water. I reach for another drink, an Okinawan citrus juice, which is fresh and has a bitter yet enjoyable kick to it. From what I can tell, each item seems like it’s part food, part medicine. Watanabe explains: “Our carrots contain more beta carotene than carrots anywhere else. Over here, you have fish, celery, purple potato, blue papaya...”

Further along, there are scallions, and handama, which is an Okinawan herb that locals refer to as nuchigusui (Okinawan dialect meaning “medicine for the soul” as it aids blood circulation and increases longevity). Light, fluffy pink bread is within reach, so I grab it and break off three pieces. I spread yellow ukon (turmeric), white sesame jam, and blueberry jam on each. It's a colorful, delicious dance of flavors. The fruit and vegetables are next – Luffa aegyptiaca (Egyptian cucumber), raw mozuku (sea weed), ozenzai (red bean soup), tougan (ash gourd), and yushidoufu (soft tofu) soup. I savor every morsel.

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[ PROMOTION ]

THE SOIL HERE IS GENTLE, SO THE KINDNESS OF OKINAWAN PEOPLE IS EXPRESSED IN OUR POTTERY

Watanabe tells me that the level of ultraviolet rays in Okinawa, which can be four times higher than in other parts of the country, make for vegetables that are rich in vitamins.

Moreover, gusts of wind from the ocean ensure the island’s soils are saturated with nutrients and minerals.

Watanabe’s breakfast is inspired. But how did it all begin? Some 40 years ago, her mother traveled to Europe and the US. To her surprise, she found that many places offered the same breakfast she did in her hotel: bacon, toast, coffee and so on. Rather than continue serving that same breakfast, Watanabe’s mother chose an original approach. For inspiration, she relied on her own mother’s cooking. Yakuzen choushoku (breakfast with 50 pickled items) was born.

Today, Watanabe – who has a medicinal cooking certificate – is the manager of her family’s 63 year-old hotel, the Okinawa Daiichi Hotel. She is also the custodian of her family’s culinary culture, and her customers from around the world come not just to enjoy her meals, but to discover the secret at the heart of good living in Okinawa.

THE POTTERY PRINCESS: YUMIKO KINJO Few things are as quintessentially Okinawan as ceramics. The tradition goes back centuries, having reached the Ryukyu Islands 1 8 | F E BR UARY 2 0 1 7 | TOKYO W E E K E ND E R

via the Silk Road and China. For Yumiko Kinjo, pottery is in the family line. Thanks to her architect father, her home was filled not just with ceramics but also traditional crafts. “When I went to college in Okinawa, I decided to study pottery, and my professors introduced me to different styles. That was how my passion grew,” she says.

At first, Kinjo was inspired to make earthenware as she had a love for monotones. That would change, however, when she entered her forties. “That’s when I started adding colors.” Today, pottery is as much a part of her life as the air that she breathes. Indeed, much of her inspiration comes from the nature and culture of Okinawa itself. “The sunlight is very strong in Okinawa and it affects everything here – the sky and the flowers are vibrant.”

An avid traveler, Kinjo is also inspired by her overseas trips.

“I like going abroad to enjoy different types of nature. The

colors in Northern Europe, for example, are completely different to those here.” It is little wonder that some of Kinjo’s biggest successes have been overseas, where she has held exhibitions. “The response was great in Taiwan and South Korea. Lots of people say, ‘I’ve never seen anything like this.’”

Prevailing trends are another source of her inspiration. Recently, there has been a revival of traditional styles in Okinawa, which tend to favor monotones, but colors are also back in vogue. Before pottery became a popular art form in Okinawa, urushi (lacquer work) with its bright hues was one of the preeminent crafts. In part due to the soil of the island – “which is soft, just like its people" – pottery began to gain in popularity. “The soil here is gentle, so the kindness of Okinawan people is expressed in our pottery.”

Seven years ago, Kinjo and her co-creators established a workshop and display space in Okinawa called Tituti (www.tituti.net). “The ti in Tituti means te (hand). Tsukurite refers to the artists or producers of the ceramics, while tsunagite is a reference to the visitors who connect with our work.” With non-Japanese and younger visitors on the rise, Kinjo says she would like to see more people taking up the art.

But where do you start? Easy. “Imagine who you want to make the pottery for. It could be a loved one – perhaps your grandma. Then, imagine how they would hold it. Size is really important. It is easy to make the pottery, once you know whom you want to make it for.”

[ PROMOTION ]

The Next Best Thing Weekender joined ANTOR-Japan’s glittering end-of-year party to learn more about the country’s future tourism goals, and how Okinawa, specifically, aims to transform itself into the next best international resort

E

ven if you haven’t yet traveled to Okinawa, you’ll have heard about a few key features that set the prefecture apart from others.

At ANTOR-Japan’s 50th anniversary and Christmas party, held on December 6 at Oakwood Premier’s luxurious lounge in Tokyo Midtown, guests were treated to a number of these cultural characteristics: we dined on local cuisine including a dish of goya (bitter melon); we swayed along to the sounds of a sanshin played by a local musician; and we marveled at the karate techniques performed by Master Akihito Yagi of the International Meibukan Gojyu-ryu Association.

But while the focus of the event was on all things Okinawan, we also learnt that ANTOR-Japan – which stands for The Association of National Tourist Office Representatives in Japan – is taking steps to improve Japan’s understanding of international tourism. Every year, for example, the group organizes a travel fair called “Let’s Go Kaigai!” to help and encourage and develop the industry. Established in 1966, the association is made

up of national tourist office representatives, has welcomed Mr. Edouard Tripkovic Katayama as the chairman in 2015.

Speaking at the event, Katayama said, “Tourism is an important economic generator, reaching almost 10 percent of gross GDP, and forecasted to continue growing in the coming decades.” Last year, Katayama was instrumental in founding the Antor Peace Movement 21 project, which stresses the importance of peace, not only in the tourism industry, but for our overall wellbeing.

“One of our aims is to connect people …

Exchange and collaboration are necessary to achieve better understanding between people,” he went on to say. “And from this year, we started active collaboration with Japanese local governments, to increase awareness of inbound and outbound travelers.”

As the evening wound to a close, Weekender took a few minutes to chat with Takao Kadekaru, the Senior Executive Director of the Okinawa Convention and Visitors Bureau, to find out more about Okinawa’s growing tourism industry and their plans for the future.

HOW MANY TOURISTS VISIT OKINAWA EACH YEAR? For fiscal year 2015, our total number of tourists reached 7.94 million, with 20 percent of these being from abroad. This is a big increase, as just five or six years ago, inbound tourism made up only five percent of the total. For 2016, we are hoping to have reached 8.4 million.

WHY DO YOU THINK OKINAWA IS BECOMING SUCH A POPULAR DESTINATION? Not only do we have beautiful nature and the ocean, but we also have a wonderful traditional culture. Moreover, we have a subtropical climate, which means the average temperature is 23 degrees Celsius. A lot of tourists visit during winter for a summer experience, or to take advantage of our golf courses year round.

In Okinawa, you never need to wear a coat.

WHAT’S YOUR MAIN TOURISM GOAL FOR THE FUTURE? To become a top international resort.

FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS, WHICH OF THE ISLANDS DO YOU RECOMMEND? There are 160 islands in Okinawa, and only 40 of them are inhabited. Each one has its own atmosphere, but if it’s your first time visiting, I’d recommend Ishigaki, Miyakojima, and the Kerama islands.

WHAT’S THE MAIN DIFFERENCE BETWEEN OKINAWAN AND JAPANESE PEOPLE? We have a special kind of hospitality in Okinawa. I also think that, because we have had the chance to deal a lot with foreign countries, tourists will find it easier to communicate with Okinawan people than with Japanese people.

Come visit, you’ll see! [laughs]

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[ PROMOTION ]

N A HA N IG H T S Planning a visit to Okinawa? Here are five reasons to choose Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha as your luxurious base for rest and relaxation

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hether you’re heading to the islands to discover more about Okinawa’s secrets to longevity, to shop for local ceramics, or perhaps even to take a karate lesson with Master Masaaki Ikemiyagi (see page 18), you can turn your break into a grand getaway by booking a few nights at Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha, located just a seven-minute drive from Naha Airport and overlooking the bright blue ocean. Here are just some of the hotel’s highlights…

CHURASPA IS AN AWARDWINNING HEALING OASIS INSPIRED BY SMART AYURVEDA In 2016, the hotel’s CHURASPA won a coveted World Luxury Spa Award, which is the pinnacle of achievement for luxury spas worldwide. The award acknowledges establishments that go above and beyond the norms of customer service, which is something CHURASPA prides itself on.

From the inviting, softly lit ambience to the careful combination of treatments, every detail is perfectly planned.

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Besides feeling like a mini paradise, the spa is also a place for rejuvenation.

Inspired by Indian Ayurveda as well as Ryukyu traditions, the treatments speak to all five senses. Ayurveda is one of the world’s oldest whole-body healing systems, and helps to bring mind, body and spirit into balance. CHURASPA incorporates this science into its treatments through the use of herbs, essential oils, and massage techniques, while also integrating local knowledge of Okinawan herbs and treatments, providing a holistic experience that will appeal to those looking for more than just your everyday beauty therapy.

THE HOT SPRING COMES FROM FOSSIL SEA WATER To round off your relaxation, be sure to take a dip in the hotel’s natural hot spring, which boasts revitalizing water sourced from fossil sea water that gushes out from 800 meters under ground. This “gift from the sea” is the only open-air, free-flowing natural hot spring in Naha, and its mineral contents – which cause the water to be salty – are completely different from the volcanic hot springs found elsewhere in Japan.

As for its beauty benefits, the salt clings to the skin after bathing, preventing evaporation of sweat for a heat-retaining effect, moisturizing the skin as a result.

YOU CAN DO ALL YOUR SHOPPING RIGHT HERE If you’re pressed for time, or you simply don’t feel like breaking the mood of your perfect hotel stay, you don’t have to go far to pick up a few essential souvenirs. Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha has its very own shopping plaza, open from 7am to 10pm, and featuring all kinds of Okinawan goodies such as Ryukyu glass, folk craft items, shisa (Okinawan lions), awamori liquor, and Ryukyu confectionery. There’s also plenty of fashion to browse, and a convenience store for all those daily necessities – so there’s really no need to ever leave.

THE ROOMS HAVE HAD A MAKEOVER Last year, a selection of suites at Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha were treated to an upgrade, with the grand unveiling being in July 2016.

All the rooms in the hotel feature expansive views either over the bay or city, and a natural hot spring bath, providing that extra dose of luxury and relaxation.

And the Okinawan-flavored décor – which includes special touches such as local Yachimun pottery and Ryukyu grass – highlights the tropical atmosphere. There are plenty of different options for all budgets, from the Spa Deluxe Twin Bay View, which includes a “bath with a view” and a spacious balcony, to the Japanese Room City View, which gives you a touch of modern Japanese-style décor.

THE CUISINE IS AS CREATIVE AS IT IS DELICIOUS With three restaurants and a top-floor bar to choose from, you’re spoilt for choice. To enjoy Japanese, Chinese and Okinawan cuisine with roots in Ryukyu history, book a table at Ryukyu Dining HANAFU. This restaurant gets its name from a traditional Ryukyu folk dance staged at the historical Miegusuku landmark. For all-day dining, there’s All Day Dining FONTAINE, which boasts a sunlit terrace; and for a casual poolside barbecue go to Sunset Terrace PAPILLON. Finally, end your evening off with a cocktail at Bar Planete, where the glittering night-time scenery will take your breath away.

CONTACT Loisir Hotel & Spa Tower Naha, 3-2-1 Nishi, Naha-shi, Okinawa | Tel: 098 868 2222 Web: www.solarehotels.com/en/hotel/okinawa/ loisir-naha/ www.solarehotels.com/en/hotel/okinawa/spatower/

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Sheraton Okinawa Sunmarina Resort is currently expanding the property with brand-new facilities and activities that are all scheduled to be completed this spring.

The South Tower, which opened in December 2016, consists of 46 luxury rooms all with amazing ocean views, the ocean-front restaurant “The Grill” and the “Sunset Bar & Terrace” – both of which offer the best selection of food and drinks on the island –

DECEMBER 2016 OPEN / South Tower

DECEMBER 2016 OPEN / The Grill

and the “Ashibina” game room. Other facilities including a new wellness center with an indoor pool, gym, Japanese bath and spa, opened in January 2017 along with the “MegaZip” zipline and “Go Fall” freefall activities. The project will be completed with the opening of the ocean view chapel in March 2017.

Enjoy all that we have to offer and let us help make your stay the best holiday ever!

Behind Closed Doors As everyone everywhere celebrates love this month, we chat with Belgian photographer Zaza Bertrand about her new award-winning photo series, Japanese Whispers, which reveals intimate moments from inside Japan’s infamous love hotels Words by Bunny Bissoux

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hether regarded as a seedy remnant of bubble era nightlife or a functional convenience for couples in need of privacy and discretion, love hotels remain a profitable and necessary part of the Japanese landscape. From cheating lovers, or married couples seeking solace from their compact family homes, to lovestruck youths with nowhere else to go, and overworked businessmen forced to schedule their amorous pursuits, the visitors to love hotels come from all walks of life.

When the establishments first appeared around the 1970s, they were known for their eye-catching decor, themed rooms and titillating playfulness.

In recent years, the gaudiness has been toned down, with state-of-the-art facilities and abundant amenities replacing novelty value as the prime selling point.

This evolution is a combination of changing tastes and wavering demands as well as the consequence of increasingly complex licensing restrictions. These hotels stand brazenly in plain sight across the country, and yet for many they remain somewhat of a taboo.

Belgian photographer Zaza Bertrand’s award-winning Japanese Whispers photo series offers an unusual glimpse behind the closed doors, documenting the hotels and the people who use them. Other photographers who’ve focused on love hotels have tended to concentrate their interest on the physical spaces, the kitschy interiors, exoticizing the unfamiliar, and presenting the rooms as no more than quirky locations.

However, Bertrand’s pictures selectively capture her own encounters, displaying real slices of humanity with an atmospheric poignancy conveyed in sometimes cinematic composition.

Intimacy plays a prominent role in all of Bertrand’s work, with her portfolio

I DIDN’T KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT; I DIDN’T CHOOSE THE PEOPLE. WHOEVER WANTED TO PARTICIPATE, I PHOTOGRAPHED … I JUST WANTED IT TO BE REAL

cementing an ongoing theme of interaction and human contact. Having previously photographed young people around Europe, Egypt and Panama, it was in 2011 that she first visited Japan. “People were very open ... very sexual and physical in Panama ... I wanted to go somewhere that’s not the same,” she explains. Immediately intrigued by the manners and social behavior of the Japanese people, she soon became curious about the industries dealing with an apparent disconnect between natural desires and people’s ability to openly and honestly express themselves. Love hotels, hostess bars, cuddle cafés, crying therapy – Japan has conveniently created alternative solutions to a multitude of modern day problems, debatably at the expense of nurturing healthy organic relationships.

Bertrand speaks fondly of Japan, inspired by the perfection and attention to detail, which is so different from her own easy-going European upbringing. She is fascinated by what she perceives as organization and control of basic human needs. “I found it interesting ... [they] don’t always have a lot of time for basic emotions in [their] life, so there’s been something created just for that,” she says, voicing her thoughts on love hotels and cuddle cafés. “That things like that can be organized, to me that’s not so natural.”

The strangeness of the love hotel system, this pre-planned arrangement of emotions and behavior, is manifested in a kind of tension; one you can surely experience firsthand should you ever find yourself inside such an establishment, and one that intrigued the photographer and is apparent in her images. “You get this pressure when you enter the hotel, you can sense it in the air, people go there for one purpose ... everything is kind of fake. Sometimes when you make love, it just happens and you don’t need to plan it, but here it’s all so specific and predetermined.”

The photographs were taken during two trips to Japan, in 2014 and 2016, before and after the birth of her son. She first stayed in Fukuoka and later in Tokyo, employing the help of friends to try and negotiate subjects who would be comfortable being photographed.

They initially approached couples directly at the hotel entrances, offering to pay for the price of the room, but

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after this proved largely unsuccessful they resorted to advertising online. “I didn’t know what to expect; I didn't choose the people. Whoever wanted to participate, I photographed; gay people, pretty people, ugly people, it didn’t matter, I just wanted it to be real ... not a fictional story.”

Where Bertrand’s previous projects have all included a sense of communal living, depicting lives messily intertwined and connected to their surroundings, Japanese Whispers is unique in its remoteness. The scenes are sparse and detached. The shots featuring models drag the viewer’s gaze to focus on the subjects, allowing us to enter this private space with them. That previously mentioned tension is what ultimately contributes to the mystique of the love hotel; whether your overarching view is positive or negative, that tensity can be read as anything from unsettling anxiety to bubbling anticipation. Even for a “normal,” steady couple, the time limit and designated location would make an event out of something that generally happens more spontaneously. Whether or not that sounds appealing is down to the individual. There is a general misconception that love hotels perpetuate a separation of love and sex, but to generalize that there is no love inside the hotels is as misguided as to believe love and sex only exist in one definable combination.

The reality of shooting such intimate scenes could easily become awkward or embarrassing for the parties involved, but it was more the unfamiliar way of working that Bertrand found challenging. For her previous projects, Bertrand spent long periods of time together with her subjects, getting close to them until she completely blended in. This uninhibited access allowed her to capture something candid and personal, as she states: “After a while people forget I'm there. I can’t really explain how I do it, but I become invisible, and then I take photographs.” Inspired by the work of iconic French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson, Bertrand is used to waiting for the perfect moment to appear, with scenes changing as multiple aspects come together all at once. In contrast, the shoots at the love hotels were all pre-arranged: “They were appointments and only one hour each, so a very different way of working; I wasn't invisible, I was very present in the room.” Some people shyly waited for her orders, expecting her to direct them, for others the thrill of exhibitionism perhaps altered

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SOMETIMES WHEN YOU MAKE LOVE, IT JUST HAPPENS AND YOU DON’T NEED TO PLAN IT, BUT HERE IT’S ALL SO SPECIFIC AND PREDETERMINED

their actions or mannerisms, but Bertrand aimed to capture something as unaffected as possible. She didn’t choose the people or their clothes or even the specific hotels – the models had complete autonomy and thus the series should be considered on the spectrum of documentary photography, without any journalistic intention. “It was more like creating an image, in time and space, of the people who would pay money to go and make love.”

The necessity to be so concentrated on the scene in front of her was a big experience for the photographer who describes some of the process as seeming “like a movie,” the final pictures having a filmic quality enhanced by the low lighting and mood. “I was out of my comfort zone and I really enjoyed it. It’s like a new door that opened for me.”

BUY THE BOOK Japanese Whispers by Zaza Bertrand is published by Art Paper Editions and available for €30.00 (¥3,625) from www.artpapereditions.org (worldwide shipping offered). For more information about and work by the photographer, visit zazabertrand.com

In addition to exploring this new way of working in her future projects, Bertrand hopes to have the opportunity to show her recent series to a Japanese audience through an exhibition. She’s curious about the reaction she might receive, wondering if people will be shocked, or even interested. Undoubtedly, few people would resist the chance to peek inside such a provocative private world, but moreover, art often brings a chance for people to see everyday details and events presented as something extraordinary or profound. For those who have grown up alongside these places as part of the mundane, or for foreigners who perhaps have only a fleeting interest in the subject, Japanese Whispers provides rare glimpses of both tender intimacy and cold isolation which, in any society, are so often overlooked.

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JAPAN’S FORGOTTEN ONES Last year’s Sagamihara massacre was Japan’s deadliest mass killing since World War II, and it put the country’s bias against people with disabilities in the spotlight. Matthew Hernon looks at the reasons behind the discrimination, and what’s being done to help change attitudes

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ameless and faceless: That’s how the victims of the Sagamihara massacre will forever remain in the eyes of the public.

The abhorrent act, which ended the lives of 19 residents at the Tsukui Yamahiro En (Tsukui Lily Garden) care facility for people with intellectual disabilities was committed by 26-year-old ableist Satoshi Uematsu. A former employee at the center, he'd previously written about killing hundreds of disabled people “for the sake of Japan and world

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peace,” in a letter given to the speaker of the Diet's lower house.

Inspired by Nazi eugenics, the multiplemurderer has been given the media platform he seems to crave, yet very little information – only that there were 10 women and nine men, aged between 19 and 80 – has been conveyed about those he killed. The Kanagawa police decided against giving more details to protect the families who may be worried about discrimination. The decision has

intensified the debate in Japan concerning attitudes towards physically and cognitively impaired persons.

“Not showing their names and faces is basically like denying them their humanity,” says author Suzanne Kamata, whose daughter Lilia has cerebral palsy and is profoundly deaf. “Following terrorist attacks in Nice and Orlando I remember reading a lot about what the victims were like and what they enjoyed doing.

Obviously, we couldn't do that after the Sagamihara incident, which I felt was wrong. Also, it didn’t receive the same kind of attention as other tragedies. There were no hashtags on Twitter or things like that. As a news story, it seemed to die down quite quickly.”

Kamata's views are shared by many, including New York–based filmmaker Kazuhiro Soda, who in 2007 directed the critically acclaimed documentary Seishin (Mental) about an outpatient mental health clinic in Okayama. “Of course, the will of victims’ family members should be respected,” Soda tells us. “However, from what I understand in the case of Sagamihara it was the police that decided not to publicize the names of those killed because of their disabilities. I find that disturbing and discriminative. I imagine some of the families wanted to talk openly about the deceased. Without their stories the victims remain faceless, making it harder for the public to feel sympathy towards them.

“There are so many people suffering from mental disorders, but because of the shame attached they choose not to discuss their problems. They are illnesses that could affect anyone. I realized this while working in Tokyo for two months when I was screamed at by producers and regularly had to stay at the office overnight.

The working conditions here are stressful enough to make the most laid-back person snap, and that was one of the reasons I wanted to make Seishin. I was strict about not blurring out the patients’ faces as is the case with most documentaries.

In order to have an open discussion, they should be visible.”

Slightly encouraged by the progress that’s being made, Soda believes mental illness is becoming less of a taboo in Japan. This is partly down to several government initiatives including various educational programs on the topic. Furthermore, in April 2016 a new law was enacted aimed at eliminating discrimination against individuals with either physical or cognitive disabilities. Whilst a little vague regarding what constitutes discrimination, the legislation, which will be reviewed in three years, was unquestionably a step in the right direction. So was the amendment of the Act on Employment Promotion of Persons with Disabilities

back in 2013, which raised the legal employment quota for people with disabilities from 1.8% to 2.0%. While many companies still fall below that number, the employment rate of individuals with disabilities has continued to grow year by year over the past decade.

One organization certainly playing its part is Pasona Heartful. A special exemption company of the Pasona Group, it's engaged not only in the outsourcing of office operations for people with disabilities, but also the development of agriculture and other new areas of employment.

“Our approach is to take each person on their own merit,” says Pasona Heartful director Tadamichi Shiroiwa.

“We're an HR firm so our focus is always on a candidate's strengths and skills, not their handicap. For too long in Japan, people with disabilities have been segregated. The situation has improved over the past 20 years, but it feels like a slow process. I still think we're behind other countries in terms of equal employment

POLITICIAN SEIKO NODA WAS TOLD SHE SHOULD LEAVE HER SON TO DIE

opportunities and barrier-free access.

The government needs to enforce more stringent architectural policies ensuring that buildings have better accessibility for everyone.”

Suzanne Kamata concurs. She feels attitudes towards people with disabilities in Japan have shifted in recent times; however, regarding infrastructure she believes there’s still a long way to go. The American-born writer explores topics like accessibility and human relations in her new book A Girls' Guide to the Islands in which she travels around the Seto Inland Sea with her daughter. It's a trip she probably wouldn't have envisioned making 10 to 15 years ago.

“When Lilia was young, my motherin-law told me not to let her play outside on her own because she was worried what the neighbors would think,” says Kamata.

“I heard there were three children nearby with disabilities, but I never really saw any. The attitude back then seemed to be ‘let’s hide them away.’ Thankfully that’s changed and you’re now seeing more kids

in wheelchairs and so on out and about.

Unfortunately, there are still many shops and restaurants, including new ones, that are inaccessible. This contrasts sharply with America where even old mom and pop stores have ramps.”

Josh Grisdale, who has cerebral palsy and is the founder of the Accessible Japan website (www.accessible-japan.com), points out renovations to public buildings don't just benefit those who are physically challenged, “but everyone.” The 36 year old, who moved to Tokyo 10 years ago from Canada and recently became a Japanese citizen, is pleased with the progress that’s being made and is confident that significant steps are being taken towards making Japan a barrier-free country.

“I feel freer here than I did in Canada where I lived in a rural area and always had to rely on someone for a ride whenever I wanted to go anywhere,” he tells Weekender. “In Tokyo, the vast majority of public transportation is now wheelchair accessible so I can be more spontaneous. The toilets are also great and very easy to use. There’s even an app to find them: ‘Check a Toilet.'

“Sometimes people follow the rules too closely here, but in general I feel it’s a great place for people with disabilities to visit. I remember the first time I came.

There were all kinds of questions swirling around my head. Was the hotel going to be OK? Would I be able to use the train? The feeling of uncertainty was accentuated by the lack of information. After moving here permanently and learning the language, I realized there was lots of it available – it just wasn’t in English! That’s why I decided to create Accessible Japan.”

As well as providing tips, the website also features various articles including some related to the Sagamihara massacre, an incident which Grisdale found difficult to comprehend. “I’ve faced various forms of discrimination during my life, but never imagined someone hating people because of their disabilities,” he says.

Yet, Satoshi Uematsu is not completely alone in his perverse way of thinking.

Ableism does exist and is exacerbated by public figures such as Australian philosopher Peter Singer, who advocates killing disabled babies via infanticide. In Japan, LDP politician Seiko Noda, whose child was born severely handicapped, has been subjected to online abuse including one person who told her that she should leave her son to die as he “uses up so much government money for medical care.”

“Rather than spouting these opinions, I wish those individuals could observe people like my daughter,” says Kamata. “Then maybe they’d realize they’re more than just their disability. Awareness is growing and attitudes are changing, however, I fear that discrimination will always be there.”

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SUR F I N G T HE SN O W

Snowsurfing is enjoying a global revival, and Fukushima’s powdery backcountry is the perfect place to try it Words by Phil Luza

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efore the Tohoku earthquake of 2011, Fukushima was one of Japan’s best-kept surfing secrets. The long, jagged Pacific coastline offered a variety of breaks, and caught swell throughout the year. Since many coastal areas are now irreparably changed and some remain off limits, the best remaining surf spots in Fukushima are now on its snow-covered mountains.

Snowsurfing is the art of riding snow like a wave.

Its roots can be traced to the origins of snowboarding, with early snowboards, like the Snurfer, being modeled after surfboards. As board design and technology advanced, the emphasis of mainstream snowboarding evolved from carves to airs and skate-style tricks, and the popularity of snowsurfing faded on the global scene. Nevertheless, the underground snowsurf movement has remained a force with carving purists, and has begun to regain popularity in the resorts and backcountry mountains of the world.

The feeling of riding a mountain of powder snow is much like the feeling of surfing an endless flowing wave, and Japan’s near endless supply of powder perfectly suits snowsurfing. My first experience of snowsurfing began with an early morning departure from Tokyo to the mountains of Fukushima Prefecture, which is bordered by the Pacific Ocean and the Japanese Alps. Our destination was Hinoemata, a small village tucked away in the mountainous Aizu region, located close to Oze. Fukushima doesn’t have the international acclaim enjoyed by Hakuba or Niseko, and Hinoemata doesn’t have the towering peaks of neighboring Niigata and Gunma, but this makes it all the more interesting. It’s like a secret surf spot hidden within a city. It will never be famous, but it will also never be crowded.

After a long drive we arrived at the parking lot near the base of the mountain where we met our guide Takayuki Hirano, and spotted the mini snowcat we would ride to access the backcountry. As if on cue, the snow that had been falling all morning began to clear up as we loaded our gear onto the side of the snowcat and crammed ourselves inside. The warm interior and quiet grins of everyone reminded

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Photo by Phil Luza

me of an Indonesian boat ride I once took to one of the hundreds of breaks at that surf mecca. We felt a shared mix of nervousness and excitement as we gazed out the windows to witness the warm rays of sunshine piercing through the cold morning.

Dozing off in the warm cabin, I awoke 30 minutes later as we arrived at the lodge. In front were two snowmobiles with large rubber boats – like the ones used for white water rafting – tied behind them. Inside was a small repair shop and a wall lined with colorful boards that looked more like surfboards than snowboards. These funky boards were all made by Moss, the world’s oldest snowsurfing brand.

More than 40 years ago, Moss founder Shinzo Tanuma had a dream to surf on snow. In 1971, he created the first Moss Snowstick prototype, which was made from urethane foam and fiberglass, much like a traditional surfboard. He test-rode the prototype at the Akakura Onsen ski resort in Niigata, and started a revolution.

The original Moss Snowsticks have been refined, with designs varying over the last four decades. The mix of tail shapes, board length, and nose width differs to match the rider’s desire to draw big lines and deep carves.

I was quickly drawn to the Moss Quadstick model. The fat nose and swallow tail are similar in design to my favorite type of surfboard, and my mind raced with the possibilities. After swapping out my bindings I loaded the board into the rubber rafts with the rest of our group. As we made our way to the top of the mountain, the sun lit up the slopes, and the quiver of colorful Moss boards sticking out of the side of the boats struck a bright contrast against the pristine white snow.

The snowmobile and rafts followed a narrow, snow-covered, closed road that snaked up to the top of the

IT FELT LIKE I WAS SURFING A PERFECT MEXICAN POINT BREAK THAT NEVER ENDS

mountain. The recent snow storm had completely blanketed the area in nearly a meter of fresh pow. The occasional street sign or steel rockslide barriers were the only clues that this road – which gives way to open valleys and powder-covered trees – was ever in use. After a few minutes Takayuki stopped the snowmobiles and attached water-ski tow ropes to the boats. For the remainder of the ride up we took turns towing behind the snowmobiles, carving off the snowbanks lining the side of the road like wakeboarders behind a boat.

Once at the top we unloaded our boards and gear from the boats and strapped in. The silence of the mountain was only broken by gentle laughter. Underneath the facemasks and scarves of the other riders there were big smiles as we glimpsed the sun glistening off the fresh powder.

Everyone peered over the side of the road into the valley and mind-surfed the untouched terrain.

Lining up along the ridge line we peered over the edge. The etiquette for this trip is to drop in one by one to let each person enjoy their run. I watched as a rider shouted “Ittekimasu” and slid into the fresh powder between the trees, leaving an arch of spray after each turn. Anxiously I watched, knowing I was next. After a few minutes I dropped off onto the run. The wide nose on my Moss Snowstick sank into the soft powder, then rose up to plane as I gained speed. I was floating over an ocean of snow and flowing effortlessly between the trees. The endless wave of powder made me feel like I was surfing a perfect Mexican point break that never ends, and rekindled the stoke that only a surfer knows.

When I joined up with the rest of the group, the vibe was as if everyone had just caught the wave of their life.

The mix of perfect conditions and equipment left an overwhelming feeling of accomplishment earned from taking the time to seek out a new place and try something different. When we eventually returned on the snowcat to the parking lot, we were exhausted but still smiling. To end things off, we took a short drive to the local onsen, where we soaked our tired bodies and swapped stories of our perfect day.

USEFUL CONTACTS

From Top To Bottom Snowsurf Design boards by Taro Tamai: Super Fish Outline Core, Hornet, and Rocket Fish

Hinoemata: www.oze-info.jp Tour info: raku-hinoemata.com Moss Snowboards: www.pioneermoss.com Onsen: www.oze-info.jp/spot/komanoyu

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Join the Conversation, Join the Club JOIN TOKYO WEEKENDER’S INSIDERS CLUB TO FIND OUT ABOUT LIMITED OFFERS THROUGHOUT TOKYO, ATTEND EXCLUSIVE EVENTS, GET THE LATEST INFORMATION ABOUT PRODUCTS BEFORE THEY LAUNCH, AND LET YOUR VOICE BE HEARD. CHECK OUT WWW.TOKYOWEEKENDER.COM/WEEKENDERINSIDERS FOR MORE DETAILS

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Yukari Araki<Red>, Mixed media2016, Courtesy of AIN SOPH DISPATCH

ART , C O M EDY, A N D A GOOD E D U CATI ON Whether you are in the mood for abstract art from the 19th century, need a good laugh, or want to keep up to date on the latest Tokyo school news, we've got it all right here.

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Paul Gauguin, Self-Portrait with “The Yellow Christ,” 1889–90, Musée d’Orsay, Paris

ART & COMEDY

O RSAY N A B I S A partnership with the Musée d'Orsay brings the works of late 19th century Post-Impressionist, avant-garde collective Les Nabis to Tokyo. Meeting at Académie Julian, the group of artists paved the way for 20th century abstract and nonrepresentational art. Breakouts of the group included Pierre Bonnard, Édouard Vuillard and Maurice Denis, although more than 20 artists made up the collective. Works by influencers, such as Paul Gauguin, will also be displayed. Mitsubishi Ichigokan Museum Until May 21 mimt.jp/nabis

THE ART WORLD

OU R PIC K O F T H E C I T Y’S B ES T EXHI B I T I ONS Compiled by Luca Eandi

M AT ISSE E T ROUAU LT

Henri Matisse, Still Life, 1896

Painters Henri Matisse and Georges Rouault met at art school, when they both attended the École des Beaux-Arts. This exhibition displays correspondence between the two spanning 50 years, and the artwork that accompanied it. Although stylistically different, it is apparent from the letters how they influenced each other over time. Important early works by Matisse will be displayed, such as The Bottle of Schiedam, as well as Rouault's oil-color plates for "Divertissement." Shiodome Museum Until March 26 panasonic.co.jp/es/museum

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Tiziano, ca.1515, Oil on canvas, Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence © Gabinetto Fotografico del Polo Museale Regionali della Toscana

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CO M E DY Three comedy nights to keep you laughing all month long JIMMY CARR One of the most prolific joke-tellers of recent times, Jimmy Carr embarked on a mammoth world tour earlier this year that features a selection of his very best jokes along with brand new material.

His deadpan delivery coupled with plenty of dark humor has made him a perfect host for several of Britain’s top panel shows, and Carr brings equal amounts of charm and edge to his stand-up. February 27, Yamano Hall

TIT I A N A N D T H E R E N A I S SA NC E I N V E NI C E

Gabriella Mangano & Silvana Mangano “There is no there,” 2015 / Single-channel video / Collection of the artist / Courtesy of Anna Schwartz Gallery, Melbourne

When it comes to Venetian Renaissance art, one prolific painter perhaps embodies it more than others – Tiziano Vecellio, also known as Titian. The 15th/16th century painter worked steadily on commissions from monarchs and popes alike throughout his fruitful life. His brilliant colors, free and vibrant brushwork and use of softly diffused light became a calling card and influenced generations to come.

On top of dozens of Titian's works, this exhibition includes influential works by Bellini and Vivarini, as well as later Venetian works by Veronese and others. Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum Until April 2 titian2017.jp/english

EDDIE IZZARD In bringing his latest stand-up show, “Force Majeure,” to Tokyo for the first time ever, Eddie Izzard is closing in on having toured 30 different countries.

This extensive tour is no match for Izzard’s energetic stream-ofconsciousness style of comedy, which often leads him to speak in multiple languages, even ones he claims not to know. Equally at home on stage and on screen, Izzard is a master storyteller and a fearless entertainer. February 25, Tokyo Comedy Store

PERFECT LIARS CLUB

YEBISU INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL FOR ART & ALTERNATIVE VISIONS 2017 Better known as Yebizo, this renowned festival will take place at the renovated Tokyo Photographic Art Museum in Ebisu. The theme for this year’s festival is “Multiple Future” and the art promises to explore this concept by employing duplicative techniques and marrying variant elements. Participants for 2017 include artist Yasuko Toyoshima, videographer Fiona Tan, American filmmaker Nancy Kates, and Academy Award–winning Polish director Zbigniew Rybczyński.

Tokyo Photographic Arts Museum Until February 26 www.yebizo.com

Perfect Liars Club is a comedy storytelling/ interrogation show that started in Washington DC in 2013. The point of the game is to spot the liar. For the first part of the show, four people tell funny stories, three are real, one is not. In the second part, the audience asks questions of the performers, looking for holes in their stories. In the last segment, the audience votes on who’s lying and sees if they’re right.

All in all, a fun way to spend an evening and sharpen your wits. February 9, Good Heaven’s Bar

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1 Yusuke Tsuchida, courtesy ART in PARK HOTEL TOKYO 2016, JILL D’ART GALLERY

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AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN FEBRUARY 1 FEB 11-12

2 FEB 11-24

3 FEB 19-20

4 FEB 25-26

ART IN PARK HOTEL TOKYO 2017

ANDREI TARKOVSKY PROGRAMME

NITRO CIRCUS 10TH ANNIVERSARY WORLD TOUR

HOSTESS CLUB WEEKENDER 2017

This art fair includes works from Japan, Taiwan and South Korea, using hotel rooms as the exhibition space. Bring Weekender's Jan or Feb 2017 mag and get ¥200 off.

Where: Park Hotel Tokyo How much: ¥1,500 More info: www.aipht.artosaka.jp/en

Get an education on the Russian filmmaker during this retrospective, and perhaps see some of his films for the first time on the big screen.

Where: K’s Cinema How much: ¥1,000-¥1,800 More info: www.pan-dora.co.jp

Motorcycles, BMX bikes and skateboards will fly through the air at great speeds, defying all that you thought you knew about the constraints of gravity.

Where: Tokyo Dome How much: ¥7,000-¥25,000 More info: www.nitro-circus.jp

This two-day indie rock festival is headlined by Pixies and The Kills, and also features post-rock band Mono, Little Barrie, Girl Band, The Lemon Twigs and more.

Where: Studio Coast How much: ¥8,500-¥13,900 More info: ynos.tv/hostessclub

5 FEB 25 TOKYO MARATHON FRIENDSHIP RUN 2017 Happening on the day before the main event, this Tokyo Marathon fun run is organized especially for foreigners.

Where: Symbol Promenade Park How much: ¥3,000 More info: tokyoweekender.com

6 FEB 2-5 SALON DU CHOCOLAT Around 100 chocolatiers from 17 countries bring their best products just in time to get your sweetheart something cocoa-tastic for Valentine’s Day. Where: Tokyo International Forum How much: Free More info: tokyoweekender.com

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CHINESE PAPER LANTERN CEREMONY

GENTARO ISHIZUKA: DEMARCATION

Yokohama Chinatown is chock-full of events and celebrations for Chinese New Year’s, including this traditional paper lantern lighting ceremony.

Where: Yokohama Chinatown How much: Free More info: www.chinatown.or.jp

This Tokyo-based photographer traveled to document oil pipelines within four different countries across the globe.

Where: Gallery 916 How much: ¥800 More info: www.gallery916.com

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9 FEB 2-28 FLOWERS BY NAKED Renowned projection mapping and lighting installation collective Naked is back to encore an exciting show that's designed to stimulate all your senses.

Where: Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall How much: ¥1,400 More info: flowersbynaked.com

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10 FEB 1-19 “UNTITLED RECORDS” VOL. 10 Nagano-born photographer Keizo Kitajima returns with the 10th edition of this exhibition series chronicling his travels around Japan.

Where: Photographers’ Gallery How much: Free More info: pg-web.net

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YOKOHAMA STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL 2017

WHITE SACAS ICE SKATING RINK

Ever since coming on the scene in 2013, the Yokohama Strawberry Festival has become one of the more welcome additions to an already busy festival season.

Where: Yokohama Akarenga How much: Free More info: www.yokohama-akarenga.jp

In addition to the ice rink, be sure not to miss the nearby Akasaka Biz Tower illuminations to get the full romantic experience for Valentine’s Day. Where: Akasaka Sacas How much: ¥500-¥1,200 More info: sacas.net

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Situated at the very heart of the city, BST has steadily built an enviable world-wide reputation over more than quarter of a century. Here’s a glance at five of their recent achievements and accreditations

BST is an accredited member of the Council of British International Schools and one of only a small number of schools worldwide to have been independently inspected according to the UK standards for British Schools Overseas, and judged to be excellent in every category. We regard this as yet another very welcome endorsement of the high standards we set for ourselves.

Young people today increasingly see themselves as global citizens and, while many of our graduates seek to continue their education in the UK, there is growing interest in both the USA and Japan, and a number of current students are looking towards Australia and mainland Europe. Most universities worldwide are familiar with Britain’s public examination system and are keen to accept students with good A level qualifications. In fact, the specialist nature of these two-year courses means that students with better grades can expect to earn significant credit – sometimes up to a whole year’s worth of study. At Harvard, for example, you will need to have at least three A/B grades to matriculate (earn a place) but three A*/A grades will merit a full year’s academic credit; Boston College will offer two courses of credit for A/B grades, while C grades will earn one semester’s credit, and Princeton clearly states on its website that A/B grades will earn Advanced Placement credit. It is a similar story across the world.

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BST is, of course, much more than an A Level school. All examinations are important, and many parents are impressed by the rigour and structured progression of our particular brand of British education from the age of three through to 18. That said, students here know that education is not simply about passing exams. Sport, music and drama are woven into the fabric of school life, and we see both community service and adventurous activity as real strengths. From their early years in our Nursery and Reception classes, children are given countless opportunities to develop the independence and resilience that will enable them to take the next step in their education – wherever it might take them, with confidence – and a smile.

In January, the school’s good name was further enhanced when the Chair of the Board of Trustees, Mrs Marianne Black, was awarded an MBE for services to international education in the latest New Year’s Honours list. This prestigious award, one of just 76 granted to recipients overseas, recognises the advances made by BST under Mrs Black’s guidance during the past five years and offers affirmation of the school’s central importance to both the British and the broader international community here in Tokyo.

This year, for the first time in its history, BST is home to well over 1,000 students. There are many reasons to explain the remarkable surge in student enrolment at BST in recent years but foremost among them is the widespread recognition that this is a school where young people of all abilities from the most diverse backgrounds can find their niche and fulfil their potential. Since 2012 we have seen the number of 15- to 18-year-old students on our IGCSE and A Level courses more than double to almost 250; examination results have progressed to the point where they match the gold standard set by the United Kingdom independent sector and our graduates are winning places at some of the most prestigious universities around the world.

Creating Global Leaders How Aoba-Japan International School (A-JIS) is introducing unique methods to help build communities and prepare children for success and happiness in an unknown future

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s the world moves towards an increasingly uncertain future, helping learners become empowered problem solvers and innovators is essential. To that end, Aoba-Japan International School (A-JIS), is paving the way for a unique approach to education. We chat with the school’s Secondary Principal, Robert Thorn, and the Director of Aoba-Japan Extension (AJE), Greg Culos, who is responsible for community and external programs, to find out more.

HOW DID AOBA’S DIFFERENT APPROACH TO EDUCATION EVOLVE? Robert: Many schools have mission statements with big ideas, such as making an impact on the world one day. We said, “Why can’t we do that now?” We began to ask ourselves, and the kids: “What is the point of education?” The kids came up with things like, “It’s to prepare us for success and happiness in an unknown future.”

THAT’S INSIGHTFUL COMING FROM SCHOOLKIDS… Robert: Exactly. We took time to reflect together on that. We then looked at how a school and an education system can do this; how does a learner go into an unknown future and come out happy and successful? To this end, we have learners examine positive and negative aspects of school. They look at the relationship between teachers and learners and, through discussion and exploration, propose how positive change can be made. They begin to see how to make changes in their communities.

Greg: AJE was designed with the notion that we create opportunities for our kids to become inspired to learn about, in particular, things that inspire them.

It’s a simple notion, but it breeds relevancy.

Consequently, we strive to ensure that AJE programs are experiential first.

WE CREATE OPPORTUNITIES FOR LEARNERS TO BE SOCIAL ENTREPRENEURS IN THEIR LIVES

coaching skills. The idea is to nurture critical approaches to understanding expected norms and behaviors, and to generate learner-led forums and actions in which they can present, test, question, and perhaps modify notions regarding “global leadership”: What is entrepreneurial spirit?

What defines a happy family life? What is success? What am I doing now to bring positive change to our community?

Greg: We may provide controlled situations that can lead to conflict in life, and then problem-solve those issues with others in a responsible way. So, they become attuned to the roots of what causes problems in life and how those instances may be managed.

Robert: In many schools you get teachers who love the subject they teach, but half the kids they teach think of it as a waste of time. Wouldn’t it be better if young people understand that they’re going into any classroom to become better learners and leaders – and that this outcome is possible even within the context of any subject?

HOW DO YOU EMPOWER THE TEACHERS? Robert: We give more time to the topic of global leadership than we do to the traditionally important subjects, with the notion that better holistic learners will learn content knowledge better, and apply it better.

SO GLOBAL LEADERSHIP IS PART OF THE CURRICULUM? Robert: Yes, teachers challenge learners about certain topics, and set up opportunities for them to practice leadership and

Robert: A good example is a course our teachers took with Professor Philippe Rosinski, who developed a system called Global Coaching. His approach leads to a more rounded coach. That said, we also realized that, as teachers, we’re only just learning these skills, so we thought, let’s go on a journey with the kids. In this way, we are helping to build our community and relations between educators and learners that empower both to develop the other.

HOW ELSE ARE YOU HELPING TO BUILD COMMUNITY? Robert: To be social entrepreneurs, you first have to understand your impact on society. So we’re collaborating with local schools. One of the events we’re trying to organize is getting teenagers and retired people to come together to make things – anything from conversation to calligraphy.

Greg: Families in Japan reach out to international schools to provide their children with learning paths that are otherwise not available to them: creativity, independence, and critical thinking being among those.

Both our mainstream and AJE programs offer these experiences. We also host more and more international students seeking the same opportunities to discover the world in different ways. As a result, all participants can experience authentic instances of socio-cultural difference.

More info at www.japaninternationalschool.com

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People, Parties, Places TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE WITH BILL HERSEY Bill Hersey and the age-defying Mick Jagger, circa 1988

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n addition to having a lot of friends from all over the world visiting Tokyo over the Christmas-New Year's holidays, I met a lot of interesting people for the first time. This added up to spending a lot of time meeting and talking with people from all walks of life in a half a dozen or so of the city’s many fine restaurants, coffee shops, and parks. Our groups were always very international and we talked about everything from terrorism to (ugh!) Trump.

One conversation with a group of young Italian businessmen working here regarding the perils of Roppongi really surprised me.

One of them told me he and a few friends were lured to a well-known Roppongi club by a couple of touts who work the streets around the Roi Building. They didn’t really like the club’s ambiance, so they decided to have one drink and move on. But somehow someone had spiked their drinks and two of them woke up in a small dark street several hours later. One was missing his watch and wallet and the other just his wallet. They reported this and spent considerable time filling out a police report. It’s been a couple of weeks and they haven’t gotten anything back yet. I respect the police here, but it’s not easy. The Roppongi scumbags who are into spiking drinks, pickpocketing, and the like really know what they’re doing.

I know Tokyo’s one of the safest cities in the world, but it seems like no matter where you travel nowadays, you should be careful.

I'd also like to warn you about using drugs here. Most, including marijuana, are illegal and penalties are tough. I’m sure you can find

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people selling drugs, but don’t take a chance. No one needs that kind of trouble here.

Joined friends from the Big Apple at a first-class holiday lunch at the Grand Hyatt’s Oak Door. My fish and chips were excellent and not all that expensive. My four friends who arrived a little late were loaded down with Christmas décor bags from a half a dozen Roppongi Hills bags and boxes. “Gifts for friends back home,” they told me, adding “Tokyo is really a marketing dream.” I suppose when you consider that about 1% of Japan’s 127 million people are big shoppers, this is true. If you visit the Shibuya and Roppongi Don Quixotes, they’re almost always super busy with Chinese and Southeast Asian tourists with big bags, boxes and even suitcases full of all kinds of things they bought to take back home.

Even though there are only a small number of Christians in Japan, thanks to marketing and promotions Tokyo was beautifully decorated for holidays and sales of gifts were up. An increase in tourism has helped. Let’s hope it keeps getting better all the time. In closing this part of the column, my apologies to our Chinese friends for this late, but truly sincere congratulations on their New Year which was on January 28.

ALGERIAN NATIONAL DAY RECEPTIONS Algerian Ambassador Mohammed Bencherif and his wife Amira hosted their National Day Reception in their beautiful Arabic designed Embassy/Residence in Minato-ku. Guests were a wall-to-wall

HAPPY BIRTHDAY SHIGA AT TSUKIJI JISAKU 1. Brazilian car racer J.P. Oliveira and his wife Haruka 2. Shiga’s mom Reiko, his son Christophe, the birthday guy Tsukasa Shiga, his wife Anna, their daughter Anastasia, and Anastasia’s friends Diria and Roman 3. Top Apple executive Kaoru Washitaki, his wife Hinatsu

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4. The hosting couple, Algerian Ambassador Mohamed Bencherif, his wife Amira 5. Gospel singer Alex Easley, photographer Benjamin Lee 6. Toshio and Fumiko Motoya, the couple behind all the APA Hotels you see everywhere 7. Egyptian Ambassador Ismail Khairat, Kuwait Ambassador Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi 8. Algerian Ambassador Bencherif, German Ambassador Hans Carl Freiherr Von Werthern 9. Bill and Japan Football Association head coach Vahid Halilhodzic 10. Gaimusho’s Deputy Director General Middle East and Africa Affairs Bureau, Katsuhiko Takahashi, his wife Mami, and Amira Bencherif

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WINE NIGHT AT MIDTOWN OAKWOOD 1. Nandan Mer, Alok Rakyan, Ikuko Yasutomi, Paul Mortensen, Chiyuki Shimamoto 2. Todai University’s Phil Stilwell, Saguri Ishida

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OMAN’S GLITTERING NATIONAL DAY RECEPTION

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3. The hosting couple Oman Ambassador Khalid Al-Muslahi, his dynamic wife Aisha Abeer 4. Kuwaiti Ambassador Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi, his wife Jamilah 5. Indian Association of Japan President Dr. Sanjay Mehrotra, popular politician Kazuyuki Hamada 6. Min-On Concert Association President Hiroyasu Kobayashi, Timor-Leste Ambassador Filomeno Aleixo da Cruz 7. Yuko Hayashi (wife of the Yemen Ambassador to Japan), Bill, Trends International’s Nobuko Saito, Tamy Ozeki 8. Hisanaga Shimazu, visiting Omani Royal family member Sayyid Munthir Al Busaid, Takako Shimazu (sister of the Emperor) 9. Maali Siam (Palestine), her son Amr, his friend Monika 10. Jordan Ambassador Demsye Haddad, his wife Shifa, Metropolitan Police’s Toshihiko Matsumaru 11. Takako Shimazu, Bosnia & Herzegovina Ambassador Anesa Kundurovic, Hisanaga Shimazu

crowd of diplomats, government officials, business leaders, sports figures, art, fashion and Algerian students studying and working in Japan. It was nice seeing two friends who dress as far-out as I do – noted gospel singer Alex Easley and international photographer Benjamin Lee. Benjamin travels a lot and was just back from Europe and we talked about his work and experiences there. I also talked with two Japanese friends who are unconventional dressers: Toshio and Fumiko Motoya. She’s the lady who always wears a hat. She and her husband own the huge APA Hotel Chain, and she’s the poster girl for many of their billboards and other advertisements. If you are as successful as the Motoyas you can get away with wearing anything.

I noticed one tall foreigner I didn’t know getting a lot of attention, so I walked over and introduced myself. He spoke French, and I don’t, but we were able to communicate enough to exchange name cards and take a photo. He turned out to be Japan Football Association’s head coach, Vahid Halilhodzic, a really cool man. I was also happy to meet the new Egyptian Ambassador, Ismail Khairat.

He was really surprised to hear I had visited his marvelous country 15 times, had coffee with former Egyptian First Lady Jehan Anwar Sadat, greeted President Anwar Sadat sitting in a chair at their garden by the Nile, and had a great seat for Frank Sinatra’s concert in front of the Pyramids and the Sphinx that night.

OMAN’S SUPER CELEBRATION – PALACE HOTEL For their big celebration of Oman’s National Day, the popular couple Ambassador Khalid Al-Muslahi and his wife Aisha Abeer hosted a midday reception in one of the ballrooms of the luxurious Palace Hotel’s Yamabuki Room.

The Al-Muslahis have many friends from all walks of life, including one of our city’s most popular couples, Takako Shimazu, the sister of the Emperor and her husband, Hisanaga. I also was happy to see both Kuwaiti Ambassador Abdul-Rahman Al-Otaibi and his wife Jamilah, both back from their gorgeous and super nice daughter Hala’s wedding in Kuwait City. Another special guest at the Oman celebration was a young man from Oman’s royal family, Sayyid Munthir Al Busaid. Oman, according to world traveler Lilo Maruyama, is a dream destination. Hope to meet Sayyid in this very special country later this year.

Kudos to the Omanian embassy chef who’s from Lebanon, and the hotel’s food and beverage department. They worked together on preparing the beautiful buffet of Arab, Japanese and Western favorites.

Like anything Khalid and Abeer do, it was an elegant, colorful, and thoroughly enjoyable event.

GOD BLESS THEM ALL I, like all of you, know it’s all a part of life, but still find it difficult to write about when good friends pass away. 2016 was a tough year with the loss of a lot of people I had the privilege of knowing.

These included superstars Prince, David Bowie, and George

Chief Rabbi Binyomin Edery of Tokyo and four of his nine children at National Azabu during the Hanukkah holiday

Michael. We lost two great ladies in films over the holidays as well.

I’d never met Debbie Reynolds, but got to know her daughter Carrie Fisher when she was here with Mark Hamill and Harrison Ford to promote the first Star Wars. Thanks to friends at Toho, I could set up a private screening of an Akira Kurosawa film that the Star Wars stars wanted to see. It went OK, but Kurosawa-san joined us about 15 minutes after the very long film was running. The only problem was that Harrison had jet lag and I had to quietly wake him up several times.

Sorry about all the name dropping but that’s part of the job, and even I find it difficult to realize how many wonderful people I’ve met over the years. I know I may come off like a groupie, but, as the line in Barbara Streisand’s famous song goes: “People who like people are the luckiest people in the world.” I really feel my friends don’t have to be superstars. They just have to be nice, thoughtful and interesting and there are so many out there – really good people from all walks of life who left us.

A classic example whom some of you might have met was Jane Yonamine. This beautiful, always chic lady was married to baseball legend Wally Yonamine. Jane and he were both born in Hawaii, and spent many of their later years there and in Japan. She was the first Japanese-American to go into the pearl business, back in 1964. Her Tokyo shop is on the fifth floor of the art shop building at Roppongi Crossing, right across the street from the busy police box there. She ran the shop for 53 years, and with her outgoing personality, she made it a must-visit for anyone who wanted the highest quality pearls available. The walls in her shop are covered with photos of the many celebs and other VIPs who were her customers and friends. These included our mutual friend Elizabeth Taylor, other showbiz luminaries, business leaders, top government officials, and royalty.

In addition to being a great mother to her son Paul and daughters Amy and Wallis, she was a good businesswoman and a great friend.

Jane was a real philanthropist as well who not only helped many worthwhile causes – which included their church, the Franciscan Chapel, and their children’s schools (St. Mary’s and Sacred Heart) – she also reached out and helped many new expat wives learn to adjust to living in and loving Japan. She also paid for many boxes of clothes, toys, and medicine that I sent to the less fortunate in the Philippines and Papua New Guinea, and she gave me pearl bracelets for the little girls at my annual orphans party at the Tokyo Hilton.

Jane passed away peacefully in Los Angeles on December 5, 2016, surrounded by her family – this includes seven grand-children and four grandchildren. Jane’s daughter-in-law Lynda is now running the Pearl shop in memory of Jane and Wally. Thanks to her and many others for the memories, friendship, and support – God bless their souls.

On a happier note, I’d like to say congratulations to Mick Jagger, who celebrated the birth of Deveraux Octavian Basil, his eighth child, in December. Still full of mojo at 73, Mick doesn’t just have “Sympathy for the Devil” – he might have made a deal with him for all that youthful vigor! Here’s to more good news like this in 2017.

Steven Haynes and his nephew Shaka Haynes with Dermazone's Atsushi Sudo at Shibuya Segafredo

In Hiroo: Someone who’s not afraid to make an ass of himself

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