MEDIA VAGRANTMAG.COM FACEBOOK.COM/VAGRANTMAG TWITTER.COM/VAGRANTMAG
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF TOMIK DASH TDASH@VAGRANTMAG.COM
MENS FASHION EDITOR RUDY REED
CONTRIBUTORS MYLES JOHNSON CHARLES HARRIS
PHOTOGRAPHERS SHANITA SIMS HALEY BALLARD
GRAPHIC DESIGN AHMAD BARBER WE ARE ACCEPTING EDITORIAL SUBMISSIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHERS, AND ALSO LOOKING FOR WRITERS (MUST HAVE WRITING SAMPLES). E-MAIL INFO@VAGRANTMAG.COM FOR MORE DETAILS.
TABLE OF CONTENTS LETTER FROM THE EDITOR UNACCEPTABLE GIRL BASEMENT BLUES RIVIERA TRENDS THAT STAND NICELY KNIT
4 8 16 28 40 42
4
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Right now, at this very moment in time, we are dwelling in what is is quite literally my favorite time of the year. I mean seriously, why haven’t we just screwed the ancient traditions of the calendar system and moved New Years into the Springtime? During the Spring, not only does nature began to unfold around us, but people seem to get rejuvenated as well. You’ll find that this issue of the magazine did not escape that momentum either. In the past we have focused on everything Atlanta, but with submissions pouring in from all over, it seemed like the only sensible thing to do would be to open up our publication for everyone to enjoy. After all, the name of the magazine is VAGRANT, so by definition we were never meant to stay in one place. And just as much as we like to keep things moving, so do the people that we have featured this month. Take for instance our cover feature on NYC’s “Jungle Pop” sensation, Moxiie. Her music is just as riveting as her journey through life, and our contributor Myles E. Johnson caught up with her find out about her past, her love of writing, and the very exciting new project she has been working on. Also, our Men’s Fashion Editor, Rudy Reed took care of the guys and provided them with a handy guide of what’s trending for the Spring. It’s easy to see that he knows what he’s talking about when you look at his styling work in the editorial, Basement Blues, shot by NYC photographer Haley Ballard. The expansion of this issue is starting us on a path of all new possibilities, and I am so glad that you all are here to enjoy the ride! Tomik Dash // Editor-In-Chief
5
T
here has always been a glass ceiling for women that decide to do what they want to do with their music. Keep it sensitive, but not too real. Run the world, but do it naked. Be different, but in a way that men can still masturbate to. Women who deny these rules are automatically deemed unacceptable and are usually casted into the world of independent music dust to never be heard from, until they decide to be daring like Madonna, not like Patti Smith. Moxiie happens to be one of those unacceptable women attempting to infiltrate music. Her visuals are a bridge of Grace Jones and Courtney Love, and her music has electronic thumps complemented with soulful vocals and anti-pop quirks that manage to keep you guessing just when you think you know what’s what. By sounds and appearance, Moxiie is already an interesting piece of art, but it’s when you delve into her mind and her history, that you can start revering her as a masterpiece. Moxiie is a first generation Haitian American. Her world as a youngster was torn between the opposition that was her traditional Haitian household versus the outside world. That outside world was always changing since her family moved twenty-three times, but her
9
10
liaison between both worlds was her uncle, a practicing Buddhist monk who played as a father-like figure in her life. She spoke about his influence candidly and directly. “My uncle is like my dad. He showed me your life could go this way or it could go this way […] it’s really important when you grow up in certain neighborhoods for someone to show you the possibilities.” Those possibilities only became more possible when Moxiie discovered music and the power of the written word. “It’s been a part of my life for a while. I’m really into songwriting. I found myself into different sessions and attracting different people.” Moxiie speaks sharply about her initial introduction to music, and her passion for writing that followed. The connection we found between ourselves is that we are both writers. We both appreciate words, crafting them, and using them. It didn’t take long until there was an obvious bond between us that spawned from our mutual
appreciation for words. It made the conversation flow effortlessly into talk that ranged from vulgar art exhibits to our favorite Kelis records. More than words, Moxiie’s visuals complement her sounds. Imagine if Grace Jones and Courtney Love had a kid. It would be Moxiie. “I kind of feel like it’s not really a matter of marrying them because they feel innately fused together. It’s almost like remembering a story instead of telling one and with that comes visual flashes. When I write a song, I have a feel for what it looks like.” Moxiie’s tender and powerful lyrics aren’t as effortlessly created as the visual aesthetic that accompanies it. There’s a solid intent on the outcome. “The main and constant catalyst is the need to connect with people and communicate things that I know I’m not the only one to have gone through. Now, before I write, I try to tune into ‘what do I want to say?’”. She continues, “The things that I talk about with close friends, I want to be honest in that way with strangers. Honesty and the need to share propel everything.” The insatiable need to be honest wasn’t always at the core of Moxiie’s career. There was a time that Moxiie wasn’t creating the creations she longed to bring to the world due to PR and other powers-that-be putting her in a box that didn’t have enough room to fit her true artistic spirit. “As an artist, when I wasn’t doing the thing that I really wanted to do, that was the most exhausting and stressful time of my life. I went through periods of depression. Now, I know it’s because I wasn’t doing the thing that I most wanted to do.“ Moxiie’s music is dipped in risk and electronic sass that is as catchy as it challenging, and it could only be produced by a fearless girl. “I’m happier
11
than I have ever been in my life. I look at challenges different now. Now, I have such confidence in what I’m doing because now I feel that I am meant to do it. “ It would be difficult for anyone to disagree with that notion after setting their eyes and ears on Moxiie. It’s obvious she’s an artist’s artist. She’s also chock full of surprises. Upon her debut as an electronic diva, she’s prepping for a currently untitled acoustic album that is made to showcase her voice. Moxiie’s persona might be mysterious, but she’s loud and clear to the people that genuinely matter; namely, herself and her growing amount of supporters. She’s poised to ruffle feathers and be unacceptable amongst a sea of musicians looking to be accepted, and she’s just fine with that. CONNECT WITH MOXIIE: moxiiemusic.net |soundcloud.com/moxiie|@ItsMoXiiE
13
PHOTOGRAPHY: HALEY BALLARD @ WWW.HALEYBALLARD.COM PHOTO ASSISTANT: MARCUS COOPER STYLIST: RUDY REED @ WWW.FASHIONFORWARDMEN.COM GROOMING: NATALIE MILLER @ WWW.NATALIEMILLERBEAUTY.COM MODEL: TARAS @ RE:QUEST LOCATION: HARLEM, NY
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
RIVIERA PHOTOGRAPHER: LEL BURNETT / MUTE MEDIA MAKEUP: SOPHIE COX MODEL: LUCY CATES @ MOT LONDON
36
37
by Rudy Reed // www.fashionforwardmen.com
First, let me go on the record as saying that I am a man who loves the fall and winter seasons. However, I am also one of those people who eventually gets annoyed with having to put on an absurd amount of layers day after day in order to stay warm. Thankfully, we are in a stage of revamping. It’s time for a change. Spring is here! A new season means a new wardrobe, or at least the purchasing of few new pieces. Naturally, there will be tons available, but allow me to enlighten you with some trends you will be seeing pop up for Spring/Summer 2013.
PRINTED PASTELS & WATER COLORS It should be no surprise that with Spring bursts of colorful clothing are reintroduced back into our lives. Women were traditionally the ones known to wear the brighter and softer hues, but those days are no more. Assisting in pushing this new menswear movement forward are designers Agi and Sam. They are British duo who loves to add wackiness, life, and most importantly color to a great deal of their designs.
TRIBAL No matter what your nationality is, this Spring many designers have taken us back to the mother land. Although the patterns are in your face and fun, if you are not the type that enjoys drawing attention, I suggest you stay clear of this trend.
40
THE TRENCH COAT Whether it’s because of rain, a chill, or to complete a look, trench coats are an essential item to have in your wardrobe for Spring. And for those wondering, I don’t mean your typical “private eye” trench coats. Long, short, embellished, and varying in a number of fabrics, several designers and clothing lines have at least some sort of trench in their Spring ‘13 collection.
CAMO Camouflage has most certainly come a long way. A print that is often associated with the military has been accepted by men of all sorts of varying tastes. Just look at the impeccable style of the always fashionable Nick Wooster. From his blazer down to his shoes, the man can’t get enough of camo. Designers like Dries Van Noten have performed wonders with the print for the current season.
VARSITY/BOMBER JACKETS Often times when we think of bomber jackets, we either think of sports, or a particular era in time. But like most trends, these retro feeling jackets have now resurfaced. Deciding to pair it with jeans, or a nice pair of fitted slacks is for you to decide. What I can guarantee is that you will be returning a garment that embodies classic edge back into your closet.
41
by Charles Harris
B
ackstage was chaos and it wouldn’t feel like a fashion show if it wasn’t. Models scrambling to change into clothes, designers giving a final survey of their garments, makeup and hair teams operating on an assembly line… Toronto Arts and Fashion Week was a whirlwind. For this show, I modeled for Worth by David Wigley. David collaborated with Dylan Uscher of DylaniumKnits for the season’s collection. I remember the other models and myself being pretty stoked about what we were wearing and flattered to have been chosen for this showing. The line consisted of bold prints, knits, fringe, and other looks that were masculine, yet still gave off hues of androgyny. It was a collage of live art with a bold sensual confidence woven into fabric.
42
I met Dylan at a neighborhood café located in Toronto’s Greektown. Both of us are American born and involved in the Canadian arts one way or another. So, I was eager to dive into the creative mind of this Boston native. Dylan’s story is intriguing far beyond design. He is a man with passion, process, and determination. But I had to ask him about a major curiosity I was having… Why knits? This was a natural evolution that became a hobby. A friend taught me how to knit after I moved to Toronto from Boston in 2005. I then knit a lot in my spare time with the mommies in yarn shops like the Purple Purl. Toronto has been experiencing a resurgence within the last 5 years for knitting. Social networks like Ravelry.com are a big part
When did you discover that traditional knitting could be transformed into cutting edge fashion? Initially I had no plans to embark on a career in fashion. While I was designing for mysef, a friend introduced me to an editor at Fab Magazine named Max McDonald. He loved my work and featured it! This was one of my first experiences with fashion and really helped launch my career. Explain your creative process when conceptualizing? I’m actually really bad at drawing, so I don’t sketch unless I have to. I’m always trying to innovate with my work, whether it’s a new technique, fabrication, or silhouette. When designing, I’m often influenced by the community (artistic), or even an emotion can inspire a new design. Sometimes I even have a specific person in mind who I design for. How do you feel your reception has been so far in the fashion community? Surprisingly great! I’ve only had my company for about two years and already I’ve had work walk down many major runways, featured in international campaigns like the one I did for MAC Cosmetics, and worked with some of Canada’s best design talent. I hope we can only go up from here! How do you see yourself evolving as a designer? My company is evolving in two ways. First, with the collaborations I’m working on, my work is starting to move away from apparel and more into art pieces. I’m still working with fashion designers like David C. Wigley and Sid Neigum for Toronto
Fashion Week, but I’m also teaming up with a few other artists to explore the boundaries between art and fashion. In February, DylaniumKnits was a community sponsor for a new-works theatre festival called “Rhubarb at Buddies” in Bad Times theatre in Toronto. With the help of volunteers we created a huge outdoor ‘yarn bombing’ display where we covered the outside of the theatre in knitted fabric throughout the duration of the festival. In April, I’m also working with landscape architect Mehran Ataee for the first ever Grow-Op show at the Gladstone Hotel in Toronto. Grow-Op is a gallery that focuses on interdisciplinary explorations of landscape and urban life. Our exhibit is called the Knitted Garden and I can’t tell you anything more beyond that! Secondly, DylaniumKnits is transitioning over the next year or so from primarily working with other designers to developing its own line of knit garments and accessories that will be sold to stores across Canada (and hopefully more!). By spending the last few years working with some amazing talents, I’m ready to launch my own line and show my own vision. I’m really excited for this step, though it’s still a ways down the road! What would you like the consumer of your brand to walk away with? I want them to appreciate the precision and craft that goes into each piece. I don’t want someone to just feel fashionable; I want them to be cutting edge as well. I love what I do, I get to be creative, and I get so much freedom and flexibility. Even when times are tough, money is tight, I just think about how lucky I am to be able to do this! CONNECT: www.dylaniumknits.com
43