TFN 24 by Tonka Raycheva

www.theflorencenewspaper.com

28 oct - 11 nov 2011, Suppl. N.24

Discovering the Secret Bakeries

Tourism... from a Local’s Perspective

Dove... Football Americano?

page 11

page 12

page 15

Occupy Rome Occupy Wall Street Movement spreads to Italian capital Joy Huang On September 17, 2011, roughly 2,000 individuals gathered in Lower Manhattan, New York at Zuccotti Park to protest against the unchecked power of Wall Street in Washington and the greed of corporate businesses that has been unjustly influencing and impacting the way government is run in the United States. In just a little over a month, the Occupy Wall Street Movement has spread to over 100 cities in the United States and has inspired over 1,500 cities around the world to rise up and speak out against the injustices committed by their financial and political leaders. Because the Occupy Wall Street Movement is leaderless and open ended, it has been able to adapt to different contexts in various countries and cultures. It has quickly become a cultural phenomenon and has spread like wildfire across the world.

continued on page 3

Greek Instability Halts Travel Plans Transportation strikes and violent riots force Florence tour groups to cancel trips to Greece Despite the economic and political instability in Greece, the country has, until quite recently, remained a premier tourist destination for study abroad students living in Europe. But as instability has given way to riots and protests have become violent, several large tourism groups were forced to cancel their planned programs to Greece. Travel is often made difficult and sometimes even impossible during

transportation strikes by workers’ unions here in Europe. Such was the case during the last two weeks as all of Florence’s major student tour companies canceled trips to Greece. According to owner of FlorenceForFun Anna McNiel, the group’ trip was initially scheduled around the transportation strikes by delaying the group’s departure by a day so as to avoid times when adequate transpor-

tation could not be guaranteed. “We have to deal with transportation strikes all the time in Italy,” says McNiel. “Some are announced and others sneak up on you. In any case, it means that you have to be resourceful and quick on your feet in order to find alternatives so as not to cancel trips.” McNiel continued by saying that by the Wednesday before the group was scheduled to depart, additional strikes

Erich Schrader

were being announced, forcing the company to cancel the trip because there was no guarantee when transportation would be possible. The difficulties of traveling during strikes were not the only problems, as the social unrest has resulted in increased rioting and violence in Greece. Eventually, safety became a concern.

continued on page 2

“A Guide to the City” is the bi-weekly supplement to theflorencenewspaper. com. The newspaper is distributed throughout the city of Florence in all key reference points for the English speaking community including hotels and hostels, universities and language schools, libraries, restaurants and cafes. Contact us at

info@theflorencenewspaper. com

CONTENTS FLORENCE NEWS 2-4 NATIONAL NEWS 5 LIVING IN THE CITY 6 CITY GUIDE 7-10 FOOD & WINE 11 FLORENCE HISTORY 12

Florence News

Greek Instability Halts Travel Transportation strikes and violent riots force tour groups to cancel trips to Greece McNiel said that FlorenceForFun managed to contact the British Embassy, although they wouldn’t commit to saying one way or another whether or not it was safe to travel to Greece, and that the group would have to make their own decision regarding travel. “On no website was there a message that said it was too dangerous to go to Greece,” says McNiel. “The strike schedule was posted with information about which transport would and would not be running. It was strongly recommended that travelers avoided several listed squares that were known sites of conflict.” In the end, the problems caused by the transportation strikes and the potential safety concern, however minimal, was enough to force the hands of the tour companies.

Gianna Shepherd, a travel coordinator and tour guide for FlorenceForFun, said that the risks had outweighed the benefits of not canceling the trip, and that in general the students were OK with the decision that was made. “A strike is an inconvenience, but a riot is violence,” she said. Most of the travel companies are offering alternative trips for the students that were planning on spending their fall breaks in Greece. FlorenceForFun is if offering a 6-day trip to the French Riviera and Barcelona in place of the canceled program. “When we designed the alternative trip, we had to keep in mind why people chose Greece in the first place so that the new offer would be attractive enough that it didn’t seem like a consolation prize,” says McNiel.

photos by adelina antal

TRAVEL 14 SPORT 15

STAFF Editor in Chief (Direttore Responsabile) Lorenzo Picchi direttore@theflorencenewspaper.com

Managing Editor Erich Schrader

Writers Erich Schrader Jessica Reynolds Grace Capuzzo

Joy Huang Chase Lackey Dominic Brucciani Antonella Salvia

Layout and Design Tonka Raycheva- Art Director Internship Adriana Kaneva Nursena Yilmaz Ezgi Koksal

Photography Jessica Reynolds adelina antal

Marketing Dennis Jusufbegovic- Manager

Advertising Alessandro Cerri Internship Grace Capuzzo Vincent Tacchi Printed at Nuova Cesat SRL Via B. Buozzi 21| 50145 Firenze Registered at the Tribunale di Firenze No. 5512, 08/08/2006

In the last several months, Europe has seen the rise a well-connected movement to have the Mona Lisa temporarily returned to Florence for the 100th anniversary of the painting’s recovery after having been missing for two years. The effort has garnered support on an international level and has drawn the attention of the entire art world. Alleged indifference, however, seems to be coming from the most unlikely of places. The director of the Uffizi Gallery, Antonio Natali, has recently stated that he would not be overly upset if the painting was not brought to the Uffizi. He continued to say that the painting being there

would intrigue only commercial news outlets. The gallery director said that if the Mona Lisa is brought to the Uffizi, great; but in the event that the famous painting is not brought to the gallery, then “I will do without.” According to Natali, it should be the concern of the people here in the city to celebrate the works that are already here, including three other works by Renaissance man Leonardo da Vinci. Florence recently celebrated the 100th anniversary of the fabled heist by Vincenzo Peruggia of Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece from the Louvre in Paris. The painting, which was originally stolen from the Louvre by Peruggia in

The revolutionary influences of the Occupy Wall Street Movement reached Rome on Saturday, October 15, 2011. The “15 October Coordination” was planned and coordinated to allow the citizens of Italy to participate in the European international day of action to protest against the European governments and Central Bank, the International Monetary Fund, imbalance of economic budgets, unfairness of political policies, value of corporate and financial markets’ interests over the interests of the people and the overwhelming national debt crisis. Thousands of incredibly diverse individuals, formal and informal organizations, mobilized to partake in a national demonstration of the strength and power of the people. This gathering, like all the others happening around the world, is a testament to how people can respect differences and work together to usher in and inaugurate a movement for change. The protests in Rome were peaceful until a group of anarchists infiltrated the protests and began tagging the walls of buildings, breaking windows of storefronts, setting fire to cars, burning Italian and EU flags, and attacking news crews. Violence quickly erupted throughout the city and protesters who had not already fled the

“The Italian police

Uffizi “Doesn’t Need” Mona Lisa Gallery director not concerned if it doesn’t get Leonardo’s masterpiece

continued from page 1

Joy Huang

In the past few weeks, the OWS Movement has reached many major capitals and financial districts such as Tokyo, Seoul, Berlin, Athens, Hong Kong, Paris, London, and Rome.

STYLE & ENTERTAINMENT 13

Contributors

Occupy Rome

Occupy Wall Street Movement spreads to Italian capital

Erich Schrader

continued from page 1

scene were turned out by police forces. The Italian police were forced to resort to firing tear gas and water cannons to disperse the violent anarchists. Many of the peaceful protesters angrily denounced the violent and brutal actions of the anarchists that undermined the efforts of those who were sincerely campaigning for change. The movement was inspired by the uprisings in Egypt, Libya and other countries who have fought against the ruthlessness of greed and exploitation running their systems of government. Although the movement does not have an official list of demands, it is evident that people are campaigning for fairer

were forced to resort to firing tear gas and water cannons to disperse the violent anarchists.”

Erich Schrader the early morning of August 21st, 1911, was eventually recovered two years later after being turned in to the police by an art gallery owner. Since the creation of a petition for the historic work to be returned for a short period of time, it has gained support on an international level. The petition’s collected signatures include people from all over the world, notably several art historians from Spain, the United Kingdom and even France. According to the National Committee for the Promotion of Cultural Heritage, over 50,000 signatures have already been collected, with the hopes of reaching 100,000 by this coming January to ensure adequate support.

systems that will provide equal opportunity in education, taxation, health care and representation for all. The fight is against the top 1% of the population who offer false and unfair solutions to economic and political issues and wield overbearing power and influence over democracy. The 99% is broad and consists of people from all walks of life. Occupiers of different ages, classes, races and political and economic beliefs have set their differences aside and come together in solidarity to fight for a more upright and honorable world. Despite the turn of events in Rome, the message of those protesting against austerity and undemocratic capitalism re-

sounded clearly with the others broadcasting around the world. People are rising up, refusing to be ignored and refusing to be silent. The rapid spread of these protests displays the overwhelming inequalities that exist not only in the United States, but in cities all over the world. The Occupy Wall Street Movement will persist and continue to grow as people continue to manifest their passion and determination to fight for a better world. The unification and solidarity of people across countries and cultures will act as a powerful force with the potential to inspire and ignite global change.

F F

Florence News

National News

Florence’s “Museum of Tradition” Tradition above all else for Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

Futurotextiles: Surprising Textiles, Design & Art

4 A

Exhibit celebrates sustainability as a way of life

Jessica Reynolds Undisturbed by the world’s computer age movement, la Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella provides a haven for its visitors to take a step into Florentine history, an experience for all five senses. Its original location on Via della Scalla, close to Piazza Santa Maria Novella in Florence, still functions as it has for the past 400 years, selling their all natural ailments made with the same care and authenticity since the early 1200s. Today it serves as a store and museum, a destination known as one of the oldest pharmacies in all of Europe. Its history dates back to 1221, after the Dominican monks arrived in Florence. For their convent’s hospice, they grew their own medicinal herbs to create healing balms, ointments and other medications. Word spread throughout Italy and into other countries about the friars’ natural and effective products. Finally in 1612, the pharmacy opened to the public. It was known as Fonderia di Sua Alfezza Reale, (His Royal Highness’ Foundry) given by the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Then manager Fra’ Angiolo Marchissi held the honor in receiving such a noble title. By the 1700s, the pharmacy’s reputation was known in more countries than anyone could have predicted. It made its way to such distant lands as China, Russia and the Indies. Trade routes during the 18th century made this possible, also providing an array of exotic ingredients for the friars to add to their all-natural concoctions. In 1866, the Italian government confiscated the church’s assets nationally, and the pharmacy became a state-owned enterprise. Through government connections,however, the enterprise went to the hands of the nephew of the Officina’s last monastic director, Cesare Augusto Stefani. Overtime Stefani bought the company name, including its movable assets and

good will. The same family has managed the Officina since, four generations and counting. Eugenio Alphandery is the manager today. With Santa Maria Novella shops in Belgium, England, France, Japan, Korea, the Philippines, Spain, Taiwan, Thailand and the United States, the original store, production, and headquarters are still located in Florence. The Officina’s high ceilings, grand counters and ornate wood cut decorations characterize the original interior. Visitors can find specially packaged bottles of oils, perfumes and colognes, along with bars of soaps, shampoos and repairing conditioners—all sitting inside mirrored glass cabinets on display inside the Antica Spezieria (Old Pharmacy). La Sala di Vendita (Sales Room) was renovated in 1848, its original décor still standing today. Goods were displayed and sold in this room, which now hosts the herbal counter. Its windowed doors open to the peaceful and seemingly untouched Aromatic Herb Garden. The four walls surrounding the garden are covered with fresco paintings. Also included in the museum are the candle shop and the tearoom. In addition to a fine collection of high-end and all-natural tea blends, the tearoom sells cookies and sweets, specialty chocolates, liqueurs and liqueur jellies, spices and oils for cooking, nut and fruit spreads and honey. All are made with organic ingredients here in Florence, taking care to maintain the Dominican Fathers’ traditional recipes.

Glass cases hold antique ceramic and glass containers from the 17th century, once used to hold the precious products. Original tin pillboxes sit beside six-inch thick herbal books, alongside other scientific artifacts dating from the 17th to 20th centuries. A library is open for visitors to peruse through the Officina’s collection of antique encyclopedias along with newer publications about fashion, music, art and culture. Its ceilings and walls are lined with more frescos, attributed to Mariotto di Nardo. Museum rooms also include the storage and production workshops of the

Officina. Throughout each room, 17th century classical music can be heard, adding to the authenticity of the Officina experience. The sales persons are more than happy to share with customers the different scents of each tea, oil, balm, perfume, cologne, and candle, while herbal oils are free to sample, creating an experience favoring sight, smell, and touch. Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella aims to educate its visitors by being a “museum of tradition,” a goal I believe they certainly have reached.

Joy Huang

While some countries are still in the stages of pushing for environmental sustainability, Italy has been a sustainable country for centuries. Sustainability is so much a part of its culture that it isn’t even thought of as sustainability; it simply is a way of life that has long been instilled into everyday life. Whether it is separating bottles and cans from other trash, conserving water by using smaller washing machines or preserving energy by air drying clothes, habits of sustainability are almost innate. The Futurotextiles exhibit at the Prato Textile Museum is a testament to the experimental, innovative and groundbreaking environmentally sustainable practices of Italy and other European countries. Since 1975, the Prato Textile Museum has made it its cultural mission to offer collections of items and works that not only publicize the history of Prato’s

local textile production, but also promote its current manufacturing industry of textiles. With more than 9,000 textile companies existing in Prato today, it has been continuously gearing itself towards the future and advancing itself by creating new experimental textiles and producing innovative ways of using them. The Futurotextiles exhibit perfectly demonstrates Prato’s Textile Museum’s goal as it showcases the multiple and diverse properties and functions that fabrics and textiles can take on. It pushes the use of textiles and its potential out of its traditional context and realm of fashion and integrates it with architecture, biotechnology, transportation, medicine and healthcare, sports, agriculture, electronics and even with the aerospace industry. By incorporating the narrative of textiles into these diverse fields, this exhibit reaches a wider and more diverse audience.

The nine thematic sections present technological products such as skinhydrating T-shirts, shock resistant sport textiles, interior decoration fabrics that absorb polluting agents, futuristic creations of fashion designs, new composite textile materials for the transportation industry and several other revolutionary developments. From these highly technological products to self-cleaning fabrics and fabrics obtained from recycled plastics, the theme of environmental sustainability runs heavily through each of these works. Founded in Prato in 1964, Dell’Orco & Villani is a company that has become a powerful and influential leader in the industry of manufacturing machines and plants for recycling textile waste materials. Its “Carpet Textile of Recycled Nylon” project demonstrates a highly effective practice of both traditional recycling as well as next generation recycling, the process of converting waste materials into new materials and products of higher environmental use and value. This post-consumer carpet process separates the nylon fibers from the polypropylene backing of carpets, which allows both to be separately reused either for new carpets or other new appliances. Dell’Orco & Vilani makes it possible for one plant to process over 25 million pounds of carpet per year and keeps them from ending up in the landfill after use. Running along the theme of renewability, the “Cardato Regenerated CO2 Natural” project by Manifattura del Prato presents a certified and sophisticated ‘zero emissions’ textile product that is made with recycled fibers and textiles such as wool from the Prato district. This product has an extremely limited impact on the environment. The carbon emissions are carefully calculated

and then balanced through purchase ErichtheSchrader of green credits, thereby offsetting the emissions of C02 in its production process. This innovation takes a huge step in the direction of diminishing and eliminating the carbon footprint of traditional textile production phases. These developments are evidence of not only the promotion of the diversity of textiles but also of the remarkable and significant endeavors to combine textile art with technological advancements and environmental sustainability. Italian, as well as other European based companies, producers and designers, are working together to combine science, technology, art and textile manufacturing in such a way that is deliberately mindful of the environment. The Futurotextiles exhibit at the Prato Textile Museum is free entrance and runs Monday through Friday: 10am to 2pm; Saturday: 10am to 7pm; Sunday: 3pm to 7pm. The exhibit will run until November 13th.

Thrifty Thinking How to beat the cold in a quasi- thrifty way

Unless you’ve spent the last week under a pile of textbooks, studying for what should be the easiest midterms of your college career, you should know that Florence is changing, in more ways then one. It is no longer acceptable to wear your rainbows and cut off shorts (was this ever really acceptable in Italy?) and the knockoff sunglasses vendors have replaced their “fay bans” with look-alike Burberry scarves. While it’s easy enough to walk everywhere in the city and often even encouraged,sometimes the weather has another agenda If you plan on spending a lot of time

in the city during the week, investing in a bike is a smart and thrifty way to get around fast. While renting a bike for four months is pricey, you can usually buy a used (stolen) bike for less than 100 euro. If a surplus of pasta and bread has left you wanting to do anything but physical activity, public transportation in Florence is not awful and a monthly bus pass can be purchased for a reasonable 35 euro. However if you do utilize the bus, you will miss out on all the stands of fresh roasted chestnuts; truly a treat when the weather starts to get cold. Florence, and really all of Italy for

that matter,has unsurpassed coffee in almost every variety, but for something a little different and mouthwatering,

City Guide

Living In The City PUBS

CHIC BOUTIQUE Grace Capuzzo head to CaffeGilli in Piazza Della Republica for decadent hot chocolate. For warmer clothing, H&M is an obvious and cheap bet, even just for some tights and leggings to put under your lighter clothing. If you can stand to be haggled, the San Lorenzo market is also a good place for five euro scarves, gloves, leg warmers and slippers; all of which are crucial element in your probably freezing apartment. If you want to avoid the cold all together, but don’t have the funds for an expensive flight, Ryanairand Easy Jet offer affordable flights to Portugal, the South of Spain and Greece. For extremely cheap prices and a unique travel experience, head to Morocco. Ride a camel, discover fascinating art deco, gardens, casinos and brilliantly dyed fabrics and end your daysby eating couscous and succulent lamb with your bare hands. When push comes to shove, a lot of us Americans might only be a few weeks from expecting snow back home, but Florence’s infamous rainy season can be just as debilitating on your emotional state (and wallet). Being thrifty and clever could mean the difference between spending your last weekend broke or with just enough cash to afford a cheap flight to some exotic beach.

TOURS

SHOPPING D1

via bernardo cennini 6/r, guided tours

via santa monaca 13/r, swedish handmade design

FASHION BAGS BOUTIQUE

FLORENCE TOWN

via de’ lamberti 1, 055 0123994 bike, vespa ...

via dell’ ariento 25/r special discount, facebook: donatellofirenze

ACCORD

via pellicceria 1 innovative tourist solutions

BRUNCH

www.hairforce.it

OASI SOLARIUM ESTETICA via degli alfani 53/r 0552346696, 20% discount,

TIM borgo san lorenzo 45/49r via nazionale 80/82 R

MAKE UP

NICLA

GYMNASIUM FITNESS CENTER

GUS TATTOO

via CITTADELLA 22/R 055 3247286 ...MAKING ART HISTORY

COOKING CLASSES IN TAVOLA via dei velluti 18/20r 055 217672 www.intalova.org

COMPUTER ASSISTANCE

LA CUCINA DEL GARGA via san zanobi 33 a/r

CAFFE’ BIGALLO

DENTIST

TRIPPA & LAMPREDOTTO L’ANTICO TRIPPAIO

TRIPP & ZAMPA

piazza dei cimatori 9 special lampredotto, trippa, pochetta

via de’ neri 50/r, 055 2480909 special lampredotto, trippa, porchetta

SANDWICHES & CHIANTI WINE

SHIPPING

MARKET KOSHER MARKET

via dei pilastri 7/r, large selection of products www.koshermarket.it

IL PANINO DEL CHIANTI

BAR- TABACCHI

via de’bardi 63/r 055 2398831 typical panini and tasty wine

via de’ ramaglianti 4r 055 219089

ACQUA AL 2 via della vigna vecchia 40/r 055284170 www.acquaal2.it

3 for 10 euro drinks

SHIPPING COMPANY

CLASSES

www.budgetautonoleggio.it

via sassetti 6 333 9565550/ 055 215414

email: gymnasium.firenze@gmail.com

OSTERIA SANTO SPIRITO

via del proconsolo 73/75 r 055 291403 specials- 10 euro lunch,

BERGAMINI CASTELLUCCI

via palazzuolo 49/r special discount for students

BUDGET ITALIA< MAXIRENT via borgo ognissanti 133/r

www.florencepcclinic.com

TATTOO

334 1085438, +44 020 81445606

email: ilprato@nicla.org

GYM

CAR & SCOOTER RENTAL

PC CLINIC

via nazionale 67/r via il prato 19/r - Tel. 055-2381050

BUCA POLDO

www.garga.it

055 2654207

www.oasifriends.it

piazza santo spirito popular ,great food outdoor seating

special prizes

MANICURE & TANNING

IL CANTINONE via santo spirito 6r 055 218898

via chiasso degli armagnati 2/r 055 2396578 tuscan cuisine, outside tables

SERVICES CELL PHONES & INTERNET

all kind of american brunch

typical florentine dishes, wine www.iltantinonedifirenze.it

www.euroadventures.com

THE DINER via dell’ acqua 2 055 290748

TYPICAL TUSCAN RESTAURANTS

EUROADVENTURES daily, weekly & break trips 335 7189876

HAIR SALOONS

via sant’antinino 23/r 10% discount www.ilcantucciodisanlorenzo.it

www.theflorencediner.com

TRAVEL IN ITALY & EUROPE

BEAUTY

via ghibellina 75/r via tozzi 28/r special 10% discount,

TRAVEL

www.feedbackstore-firenze.com

HAIR FORCE

www.funintuscany.com

c.tintori 43/r, 055 2469230 italian and european fashion

via della mosca 8/10r vie de neri 49/r vie dei benci 5/r, 055 2398553

PASTICCERIA IL CANTUCCIO

via bernardo cennini 6/r, guided tours

FEEDBACK STORE

PASTICCERIA BUONAMICI

FUN IN TUSCANY

via dell’oro 12/r, piazza nerli 5 home made bakery

www.accordsolutions.it

HORSEBACK RIDING

via dello sprone 14/r high quality italian knitwear in the latest styles

CONTRASTO HAIR

www.florencetown.com

MIRTA EFFE BOUTIQUE

FREE STYLE

BAKERY

www.funintuscany.com

DONATELLO

QUALITY ITALIAN KNITWEAR

EATING OUT

TOURS IN FLORENCE & TUSCANY FUN IN TUSCANY

MARIA MARUSCHKA

BAR CAPITOL via dei neri 92/r open all day long

Bar Capitol

MAP CODE< REFFER TO MAP IN THE MIDDLE PAGE

8 CHECK FOR LOCATIONS DESCRIPTIONS FROM THE GUIDE

43 Momoyama

1 Maria Maruschka 2 Donatello

44 Kome

3 Mirta Effe

45 House of Sizzle

4 FeedbackStore

46 Ruth`s 9

5 Contrasto Hair

47 Haveli

6 Hair Force

48 Mesopotamia Kebab 49 Kosher Market

7 Oasi Solarium 8 Nicla

Della 50 Gelateria Passera

9 Gus Tattoo

51 Gelateria Dei Neri

10 Gymnasium

52 Bar il Capitol

11 Pozzo Divino

53 The Joshua Tree Pub

12 In Tavola

13 Fun in Tuscany

54 The Fiddler`s Elbow

14 Florence town

55 One Eyed Jack Pub

56 i 5 Tavoli

15 Accord 16 Euroadventures

57 Mosto Dolce

17 Tim 18

18 Budget

73 54 56

21 Shipping Company

23 Il Cantuccio

24 The Diner

37 28

36 71

25 Il Cantinone

26 Buca Poldo

66 Tea With Butterflies

67 Zoe

28 Acqua Al 2

Del Garga

12 50 3

30 Da iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Boia

68 Moyo

29 La Cucina

69 Colle Bereto

70 Dolce Vita

31 Cafe Bigallo 32 L`Antico Trippaio

71 Slowly

33 Tripp & Zampa Il panino del 34 Chianti

35 Torre 69 36 O`Vesuvio

37 Il Gatto e La Volpe

Divina 38 LaPizza Corner

Kitsch

65 Kitsch Deux

64 Flet

Naima

62 Sei Divino

22 Buonamici

Red Garter

60 Astor

20 Dentist

27 Osteria S. Spirito

19 PC Clinic

58 Antica Osteria 1 Rosso

40 Il Boccale

Pizza100 Rosso

MAX 15 MINUTES WALKING TO ALL DESTINATIONS FROM DUOMO

41 Angels

42 Roses

Il Piccolo Cafe

Space Club

Doris Club

The Blob Club

EATING OUT

EATING OUT WINE BAR & RESTAURANT TORRE 69 lungarno cellini 69 wine and food www.torre69.it

WINE TASTING & WINE SHOP ENOTECA POZZO DIVINO via ghibellina 144/r wine tasting 15 euro per person 055244517

TRATTORIA DAI BOIA

piazza della passera 15 home made high quality ice cream

via borgo allegri 50/r 055 2347498 all with stone ground flour and natural yeast

GELATERIA DEI NERI

via dei neri 20/22r, high quality since 1989

PIZZA 100 ROSSO

THE JOSHUA TREE PUB

via borgo s. apostoli, 33/r 055 283546 special first choice course + drink 6euro

via della scala 37/r open at 4p.m , pint 3 euro happy hour

piazza santa maria novella 7r open 12pm until 1 am

MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT C3 ANGELS

www.ristoranteangels.it

MEDITERRANEAN LIGHT LUNCH C2 ROSES

via del parione 26/r 055 287090

ONE EYED JACK

I 5 TAVOLI

via dei sole 26/r, open 12pm until 3am special mexican & italian food

www.roses.it

MICROBREWERY & PUB

INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTS

MOSTO DOLCE

borgo san frediano 10/r 055 2281840

via de’ benci 41 055 200809 aperitivo on wednesday

HOUSE OF SIZZLE

via dei benci 35/r, 055 2480909

via l.c. farini 2a 055 2480888 special free humus, wifi service

HAVELI INDIAN

viale fratelli rosselli 31/33R 055 355695

MESOPOTAMIA BEBAB

piazza salvemini 14, 055 3860373 stand up kebab, run by mustafa billy and family

TEA WITH BUTTERFLIES

ZOE

via dei renai 13 brunch,light lunch, aperitivo,dj set www.zoebar.it

MOYO

B2 C2 C3



via dei benci 23 brunch,light lunch, aperitivo,dj set, www.moyo.it

Zoe

FIRENZE

COLLE BERETO

DOLCE VITA

LOUNGE BAR

piazza strozzi 5/r brunch,light lunch, aperitivo www.colleberetocafe.it piazza del carmine dj set, cocktail bar, aperitivo finger food & dj set www.dolcevitaflorence.com

SLOWLY

via porta rossa 63/r aperitivo, dj set www.slowlycafe.com

GAY & LESBIAN BAR C3

borgo ognissanti 1/r special home ground chianti wine closed on monday

IL PICCOLO CAFE’

via borgo santa croce 23 055 2001057 10% discount for all drinks

CLUBS C3

SPACE CLUB

via palazuollo 37/ 055 293082 open every night

www.spaceclubfirence.com

via dei benci 33/r, 055 2344904 sports, dj set, live music,

DORIS CLUB

via de’pandolfini 36/r info 3284537921

www.redgarterflorence.com

A1 C4

ASTOR CAFE piazza duomo 20/r american bar, dj set www.astorcafe.com

COCKTAIL & SPORTS BAR NAIMA

via dell’anguillara 52/58 r happy hour 7-11 pm party time

BLOB CLUB

via vinegia 21/r 055 211209 open every night membership only

C3 FOR ADVERTISING: AD@THEFLORENCENEWSPAPER.COM

A 11

I won’t tell you the secret, but I’ll give you a clue… One American’s odyssey in search of Florence’s “Secret Bakeries”

via vittorio emanuele 4 /near piazza liberta/ special live jazz on tuesday

AMERICAN BARS

ANTICA OSTERIA 1 ROSSO

NFL SPORTS & LIVE MUSIC

piazza de’nerli dj set, cocktail bar, tables outside, hamburgers

www.dorisfirenze.com

www.haveli.it

KEBAB

FLET AMERICAN BAR

RED GARTER

www.redgarterflorence.com

RUTH’S

via nazionale 114/r happy hour 3.30-7.30 pm pint 3.5 euro, margherita 3 euro

PUB & RESTAURANT

www.momoyama.it

KOME SUSHI BAR

via gramsci 1/r chic modern ambience cocktail bar, dj set

via san gallo 22/r open 5pm-3am live music, dj set, tables outside

the first irish pub in florence

piazza nazario sauro 2, 055 6288040 live music, dj set, theme parties

via de proconsolo 23/31r, 055 2398762

MOMOYAMA SUSHI BAR

KITSCH DEUX

www.thejoshuatreepub.com

THE FIDDLER’S ELBOW \IRISH PUB\

PUBS

open 10.30- 15.00, 17.00-22 .00 via dei serragli 100/r, 055 2337483 neapolitan pizza with italian products

SEI DIVINO

KITSCH AMERICAN BAR

NIGHT LIFE

APERITIVO borgo ognissanti 42/r open 3pm until late cocktail bar, live music, dj set

ICE CREAM GELATERIA DELLA PASSERA

WHOLE PIZZA & PIZZZA BY SLICE

IL BOCCALE

(10 euro with a beer- 4p.m. -2a.m.)

via dei cimatori 21/r 055 285487 margherita 5 euro, small 2,5 euro

TYPICAL SICILIAN & TUSCAN

IL GATTO E LA VOLPE

via dell’oriuolo 58/r 055 2639466, monday and tuesday all you can eat pizza ,special deal

PIZZERIA ‘O VESUVIO

DELIVERY PIZZA & PASTA

PIZZERIA & RESTAURANTS

NIGHT LIFE

via ghibellina 151/r 055 289 264 open 11 until late margherita and soft drink 5 euro

TYPICAL NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

LA DIVINA PIZZA CORNER

Food & Wine

City Guide

Taco Bell wrappers and McDonalds fries litter the typical apartment of a college student after a night spent hitting the bottle. In the States, finding a sandwich or doughnut at four in the morning is almost as easy as finding peanut butter in the grocery store. However in Italy, both of these luxuries are almost non-existent. While the Italian culture is immersed in food and wine, 24-hour food is something that Americans learn to live without. But there is always an exception to the rule. If you’ve been here long enough, you might have heard hushed whispers of the mystical “secret bakeries;” an indulgence that some students accidently stumble upon, easily forgetting the address by the next day. In order to be prepared for the morning rush, several bakers start churning out delicious flaky treats during the wee hours of the morning. A handful of these bakeries are willing to sell their mouthwatering confections from

1am to as late as 4am -conveniently the same hours drunk college students spend swaying down the cobblestone streets, trying to remember if they live down a Via or a Borgo. The bakers don’t see it as a particularly lucrative business opportunity; they’re eager to serve and dismiss customers as quickly as possible, but happy to pocket the 80 cents or so that they charge per delicacy. While there are two old standbys that have been repeatedly written about, the best secret bakeries are the ones that you can’t find online, or in any travel book. You must use your nose as your guide. I went prepared during my first attempt to find one of these mysterious bakeries, equipped with a notepad, camera, a few worn euros and a map. After scouring the streets for two hours and attracting various catcalls, I found myself feeling lost, hungry and American. As a seasonedmap-reader with a pretty decent sense of smell, I had no

excuse. Even more discouraging were the two Italian girls I saw feverishly knocking on doors, clearly in search of goodies, but to no avail. On my second attempt, I headed out with the elusive advice of an Italian friend, Marco Sarti, who described his latest secret bakery score as “those pastries were so good that they made me sick in the brain.”

Grace Capuzzo

F Tourism… A 12

From a Local’s Perspective

EXHIBITS

A local’s account of tourism and its effects on Florence’s recent history by Dominic Brucciani first came to Florence at the age of 18 as a student (who didn’t?). Since then he has worked in Florence as a bartender, teacher, waiter, DJ, website administrator, researcher and probably some other stuff as well. He has finally found the best job in the world, helping people have fun and be creative at the worldfamous Blob Club.

I come from Leicester, a mediumsized city lying on a river in the central region of the UK. It is a former centre of industry and trade and is surrounded by beautiful rolling countryside. The parallels with Florence exist, but they are two very different worlds. This city’s path was laid hundreds of years ago by the lavish spending on art and architecture of a few generations of obscenely rich bankers and industrialists. Imagine that; the equivalent contribution these days would have to be Dubai. Those old buildings and artists gave Florence the chance of a post-industrial existence that thrives. It has an international appeal so strong that it is even partly insulated from the financial vagaries of the rest of Europe and the West. Florence is a Mecca for tourists. In fact, given the number of people who come here, Mecca could be fairly described as a Florence for pilgrims. In 2009, at the height of the global financial crisis, there were nearly 8 million ‘tourist days’ in Florence (i.e. if a couple visit for two days, they make up four tourist days). That averages well over 21,000 visitors every day of the year. That’s a lot of lunches, beds, coffees, post cards, gelati and kitschy statues. In a city of half a million inhabitants, that’s a lot of people and a lot of money.

These are the terms in which tourists are routinely discussed in Florence: economic and physical units. How much they spend and how much space they occupy in the street; pigeons with wallets. This of course sounds horrible and undoubtedly leads to some prejudicial treatment, particularly in pricing and service, but part of the notion of being a tourist is that you are out on a limb. You are surrounded by the unknown and dependant on the help and hospitality of others. When visiting foreign places we suspend the usual control we have over our lives and assume a new primary identity – tourist first and teacher, architect or bus driver second.

Style & Entertainment

Florence History

For us locals though, there is another impact of the city’s primary industry. The influence of tourism on daily life is inescapable. It’s often literally inescapable as guided tour groups have swelled in size, sometimes occupying the entire width and length of the medieval streets they peruse. Not long ago, people would explore in their groups of friends of family, popping into all manners of shops and cafes.

But now a great many are led, with a plodding passivity reminiscent of the walking dead, to a few sights and prearranged retail and dining experiences that draw business away from higher quality alternatives that aren’t part of the racket. I’m not a proper journalist so I haven’t the time or resources to find why the decision was made to allow this development, but in the interest of the liveability and character of the Centro Storico, it should be stopped.

The Florence Newspaper is currently seeking outgoing and motivated candidates for its internship program. Interns will be exposed to all facets of weekly production, including news writing, photography, layout, advertising, public relations, circulation and graphic arts. Students currently studying art history, communications, journalism, mar-

keting, advertising, public relations or graphic design are encouraged to apply. Please submit resume, writing sample, and short bio to intern@ florencenewspaper.com. Part-time contributors are also encouraged. If you are interested in submitting stories for publication, email us at info@theflorencen e w s p a p e r.c o m .

Florence fashion house prospers despite global economic crisis

Erich Schrader

BIRDHEAD - NEW VILLAGE/VICTOR ALIMPIEV -VOT Ex 3 Centre for Contemporary Art, Viale Giannotti 81 November 10th 2011- January 6th 2012 Open: Wednesday-Sunday 11am-7pm Information: tel. 0556288966, www.ex3.it ROSE C’EST PARIS – exhibition by Bettina Rheims and Segre Bramly MNAF- Alinari Museum of Photography, Piazza S.Maria Novella 14r September15th – November 27th Open: Monday-Sunday 10am-7:30pm (Wednesday closed) Tickets: €10 Information: tel. 055216310, www.mnaf.it FRANCESCO CLEMENTE. THE TAROT Prints and Drawings of the Uffizi, Uffizi Gallery Piazzale degli Uffizi September 9th – November 6th Tickets: €10 Open: Tuesday-Sunday 8:15am-6:50 pm (closed on Monday) Information: tel. 0552388624, www.polomuseale.firenze.it BEAUTIFUL ITALY. ART AND IDENTITY OF THE CAPITAL CITIES Palazzo Pitti, Piazza Pitti 1 October 11th 2011 – March 4th 2012 Open: Tuesday-Sunday 8:15am-7.00pm Information: tel. 0552388713, www.polomuseale.firenze.it

THE RENAISSANCE OF THE ITALIAN MAJOLICA: Ginori and Cantagalli Museum Stibbert, Via Stibbert 26 September 30th 2011- April 15th 2012 Open: Monday-Wednesday 10am-2pm, Friday-Sunday 10am-6pm (closed on Tuesday) Information: tel. 055475520, www.museostibbert.it

INTERN WITH US

Mighty Ferragamo

MONEY AND BEAUTY. Bankers, Botticelli and the Bonifire of the Vanities Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi September 17th 2011– January 22nd, 2012 Open: Tuesday-Sunday 9am-10pm, Thursday 9am-11pm Tickets: € 10 Information: tel. 0552625155, www.strozzina.org

LORENZO BARTOLINI SCULPTOR OF NATURAL BEAUTY Accademia Gallery, Via Ricasoli 66 May 31st – November 6th Open: Tuesday-Sunday 8:15am-6:50 pm (closed on Monday) Tickets: €11 Information: tel. 0552388624, www.polomuseale.firenze.it

But that is the whole idea. With the loss of control comes the loss of responsibility and stress. We get to be useless to anyone for a few days. As a local, it gives one the opportunity to extend hospitality (of the unpaid kind – giving directions and recommending restaurants, mostly) which is something that I personally feel lucky to have the chance to do. When someone stops you in the street in Leicester, the instinct is to get ready to hand over your wallet and cell phone (joke); but here you get to help someone you don’t know to enjoy their well-earned break. It feels good.

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provided by italian associated press Simply from looking at the numbers, it would appear that Ferragamo is immune to the current global recession. The Florence-based fashion house, which went public this past June, recently closed the books on the first six months of the year with a growth of nearly 29.8 percent in total revenue; an increase that would seem impossible given the current state of the country’s economy. CEO Michele Norsa was understandably excited about the company’s success in the first half of 2011 and remains confident that the second half of the year will also be successful financially. While several other fashion houses are dealing with the results of a faltering

global economy, Ferragamo is looking to expand by aiming at new markets with innovative plans to continue the company’s success. According to the company, their largest and most promising market is the Asia Pacific area, with China posting a 50 percent revenue growth on the first half of last year. Ferragamo has expressed interest into expanding into countries like India and Russia, as well as to other countries in Asia and Latin America. According to Norsa, the important thing is to find countries with growing economies that will have the potential for further growth as a result of Ferragamo’s presence.

Truth Discovered through Artwork Venice Biennale’s first Pan-Arab exhibition showcases contemporary art from the Arabic world Jessica Reynolds in a grid, they are set up like a realtor’s ad, illuminated with lights and set behind Plexiglas. The images of the homes displayed are far from glamorous however. What were once beautiful homes and apartment complexes are shown shattered and destroyed from terrorism and warfare. Each image describes the location, its floor layout, and the number of occupants. The eerie monotone descriptions note the world’s general approach to this issue in the Middle East. The collection of prints forces its viewers to reflect on the current war. Through dealing with larger political ideas of wealth and power, it is affecting civilians in the Middle East, and their reality is far different from our own. It is difficult and uncomfortable to fathom, a feeling the artist I am sure intended to create. Other controversial works include grand scale paintings, hanging installations, and interactive video clips, each unique in their own ways of expressing the truth of the broken promise. I was touched by The Future of a Promise, and recommend it to others planning on traveling to Venice in the near future. This exhibit ends November 20th, and the Venice Biennale on November 27th. For more information go to, www.labiennale.org.

Viewers admiring GH0809 by Taysir Batniji During a recent school visit to Venice, with an itinerary full of churches and 14th century paintings, I found a side of the Italian art scene I didn’t know existed. Having spent the last few months living in Florence, I’m used to seeing Renaissance art, which is a gift in itself, and something to be valued. But I want to know what’s going on today. What type of art is being produced right now? The Venice Biennale cured my craving. Held every two years since 1893, it is one of today’s major contemporary art exhibitions known worldwide, inviting artists from all over the globe to contribute their work to this extraordinary event. Exhibition sites and events are scattered throughout Venice and the islands, and although some are free to enter, others do require a ticket. I was lucky enough to come across an exhibition that did not require a ticket. As a broke college student, this was a plus. But what I was able to take away from the exhibit is a feeling a priced ticket could never match. The Future of a Promise moved me in its ability to relate a major world issue in visual context. Located in the Magazzini del Sale, curator Lina Lazaar arranged the works of international artists of Arab backgrounds in the exhibit. Over 25 artists from Beirut, Jeddah, New York and Paris (just to name a few) express what the future holds for the Middle East, regarding promises that have been made, and how they differ from reality. “Through the artworks selected, I wanted to investigate how artists from this diverse, fragmented region have responded to the often contradictory promises that have defined our history,” says Lazaar. Believing that politics have poisoned the way in which people interact with one another, these artists have been chosen for their ability to use visual culture to communicate. They provide the voice of the Middle East that is rarely heard, their visuals providing emotions that are rarely seen. In art’s purest form, the exhibit defines truth. Taysir Batniji is an artist from Gaza, Palestine and is now living in Paris. He expressed his form of truth through twenty prints, titled GH0809.Arranged

F Dove... Football Americano? Sport

Travel

Inside The Future of a Promise.

Photos by Jessica Reynolds

Red-blooded American college students have to fulfill their need for American sports; but how?

In one of the most beautiful cities in the world, the birthplace of the Renaissance, as well as the home of Dante and countless famous artists, most people visiting ask, “where is the best restaurant to eat?” while others ask, “where can I watch some football?!” Most students studying abroad choose to study in Florence because of the beautiful sites like the Duomo, the Ponte Vecchio, Santa Croce and more. However, this does not mean that we students are ready and willing to give up our American sports. So, which sports to watch? MLB, NFL, NCAA, NBA (if they have a season), NHL and others are all a big part of being an American. With the long and dramatic baseball season coming to an end, it is even more vital to be able to watch and support your teams while abroad. Additionally, the commencement of College football is just as important. A lot of the students here still sport their university’s gear during game time and, as always, yell at the referees on screen. Not to be forgotten every Sunday is the almighty NFL where one can find fans

in Pats jerseys sitting next to fans in Jets jerseys (albeit maybe just in their peripherals) . There are many hurtles we students must overcome in order to support our teams from afar. One is the time change. So, your game is at 5pm CST? Well, you have to add three hours for EST when it will broadcast and then add six more hours before you’re able to watch it here. So that 5 o’clock game is now on in Italy at 2am. In other words, total dedication to our teams and neglect for our studies, as well as being late to tomorrow’s 9am class is apparent. But the time difference is not the only obstacle Americans face. Even for the occasional streaming user, the term dial-up is synonymous with evil. However, a lot of the people here in Italy still access the internet using mobile USB sticks. This is catastrophic for serious sports enthusiasts. The other option is to go to a place that’s playing the game. With European Soccer seasons playing at the same time as our American sports, most places will be playing AC Milan v Inter Milan, so fail. Luckily, there are places where our sports can occupy the prime-time spot; Red Garter, Lions Fountain and Astor are just a few. As long as Italian Sky is broadcasting the games, these places will most likely be showing them. When asked what expectations he had for watching his teams in Italy, 5th year senior from Kent State Christopher Heiman says that he was skeptic. “I really didn’t have any expectations about being able to watch my teams. I wasn’t sure I’d be able to watch them this season.” Luckily for Chris, an electronic media production major, there are places like Red Garter that cater to American

sports enthusiasts. For Chris, his Cleveland Browns are not the only important team playing every Sunday night, because like many college students, following his fantasy teams is also important. Uncertainty of which streaming sites to use coupled with incredibly slow internet speeds prevent Chris and other students from watching their games in their apartments. To some, this might be seen as a blessing in disguise because it made Chris get out and find places to watch games with his fellow Browns fans. One thing

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Chase Lackey

that Chris was excited about was “meeting other Browns fans from all over the US and Europe, all cheering with me on Sundays.” It’s experiences like these that aid in making the student’s time abroad an enjoyable and memorable one. It’s little things Chris and others feel, like how “watching your team from back home reminds you of home.” It brings you a little much-needed slice of home in a foreign country. And it happens to be sports that bring it all together for a lot of students here.