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Image Courtesy: Eric Suriyasena Batiks
Ayubovan!
The Sri Lanka traditional gesture of welcome with fingers of both hands touching each other & both palms clasped together the age–old greeting of us Sri Lankans!
Ayubovan ! May You be Blessed with Long Life...
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Contents TIPS FOR TRAVELLING IN SRI LANKA 24
40
32
Sri Lanka Tourism Celebrates ‘Avurudu’ With Foreign Visitors
KANDY
38 KANDY POYA DAY PERAHERA
50
THE BRIEF ON BRIEF
54 TROPICAL OYSTERS SRI LANKA’S NEW EXPORT TO THE WORLD
62
FLYING VISIT DISCOVERING YALPANAM
72
Rama Trail of Sri Lanka
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Arabesques Bijou
www.balmainwatches.com
Crescat Boulevard, 89 Galle Road, Colombo-3 | 243-8085 3-43 Majestic City, Colombo-4 | 255-5225
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Contents MAPPING A MYSTERY 88 80
Wildlife
FILMED IN
SRI LANKA
104 96
GETTING AROUND SRI LANKA
FROM DOG CARTS TO TUK-TUKS 112
Amazing Sri Lanka - All rights reserved Š Amazing Sri Lanka 2013 Published by the Western Province Tourist Board.
General Operations: I.G.I.T. Ratnayake & Claude Thomasz
Advertising:
Sales & Distribution: Madusanka Perera, Sripathi Senanayake
No. 204, Dencil Kobbekaduwa Mawatha, Battramula, Sri Lanka. General:
+94 (0) 11 7631705 | E-mail: info@wptb.lk +94 (0) 11 7208384 | Web:
www.wptb.lk
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or part in any form without the written consent of the publisher.
Marketing:
Layout & Designing: Nadun Egodage & Feather Pen Visual Studios
Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the writers and not Coordination: necessarily endorsed by the publisher.
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Mark Pieris, Krishanthini Devendran
Chamara Samarasinghe, Navodi Ranasinghe
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ke
Studios
singhe
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ENCOURAGEMENT Colombo is an exciting city at any time of the year especially now the initiatives taken by the government to beautify the city are taking root. The west and southern coasts offer wonderful bargains for holidaymakers this season too.
Claude Thomasz Chairman Western Province Tourist Board It gives me great pleasure to welcome you, as a tourist, to Sri Lanka. This is a fine time of the year to visit this island paradise because all parts of the country are uniquely enjoyable.
Traditionally this is the season to visit the eastern seaboard of the island, where the seas are calm and the beaches irresistible to sun worshippers. It is also the time to visit the hill country and the medieval kingdom of Kandy where the Esala Perahera is held in August.
Royston Ellis Editorial Consultant This magazine is habit forming! That’s what a reader of the last edition told me. “As well as learning about the sights of Sri Lanka we are seeing behind the scenes. It is reassuring to know what is being done to encourage tourism here. I look forward to seeing the next issue of the magazine.”
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Well, here it is. The team that
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At the Western Province Tourist Board we are doing all we can to support the tourist industry where vast sums are being spent by stakeholders to upgrade, or build new, properties to contemporary standards. While the private sector is investing financially, we are lending support with training programmes. Training is my passion and, as Chairman, I want Sri Lankans to play their part in treating tourists well. Training and education, even for those not directly involved in tourism, helps spread the word, adding proficiency to the dazzling Sri Lankan smile.
We are also doing all we can to encourage our neighbours from India to holiday here. Although we have traditional and cultural links, Sri Lanka offers Indians a vibrantly different set-
ting for a holiday. Recently I was the guest of honour at the opening of the office of Caravan Travels in Cochin, India, as part of their promotional drive to attract more visitors to Sri Lanka. I am delighted with the support we at the Tourist Board are receiving from all the hotel associations in the Western Province. They are as encouraging in our efforts to help with training as we are to assist them.
Equally encouraging is the relationship we have with the Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority and the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotions Bureau both now under the Chairmanship of Mr Bhashwara Senaka Gunarathna. Mr Gunarathna is a true tourism professional with a deep understanding of the industry both from the government and private sector point of view. For all of us associated with tourism administration, it is vital that we understand what you, the tourist, wants out of your holiday in Sri Lanka. So if I or my staff can be of any assistance, please do contact me.
MEANINGFUL
has produced this magazine under the cheerful and encouraging influence of the Chairman of the Western Province Tourist Board, Claude Thomasz, consists of young and enthusiastic Sri Lankans. Instead of being stuck behind desks analysing statistics, they have been encouraged by the chairman to be actively involved in producing and promoting this magazine. Their efforts have already borne fruit as extra copies of the previous issue (Number 3) had to be printed to meet demand. We are gladdened by the support of industry stakeholders, our advertisers and our readers; all are keen to see Amazing Sri Lanka play its part in promoting Sri Lanka as the ultimate Asian holiday destination.
As this magazine’s Editorial Consultant, one of my tasks is to source articles that will intrigue readers and to make sure that the information con-
tained therein is accurate. Of course, circumstances, as well as prices, change without warning and any travel guide is out of date the moment it is published. As today’s tourism industry races ahead, we try to keep up with it. While Sri Lanka is developing and the infrastructure becomes more modern, I believe that there are aspects of the old Sri Lanka that tourists still value: the smile, the personal greeting, the delight that Sri Lankans have in meeting and entertaining visitors. That is something that springs from the heart, and makes Sri Lanka even more amazing.
In this issue of Sri Lanka, we hope to bring you insights to the island so that you, too, will become enchanted by this paradise island and decide to return as often as you can – for a holiday that is meaningful.
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DEVELOPING PROSPERITY It is my pleasure to extend the warmest welcome to all visitors to amazing Sri Lanka. If you arrived at the Bandaranaike International Airport, Katunayake, then the Western Province was your first landfall. You will see the attractions of the province of which I am honoured to be the Minister of Tourism as you journey through it on your holiday.
Some visitors may be among the first to have landed at the country’s new international airport at Mattala, in the deep south near Hambantota. Those visitors will be seen as pioneers when the airport booms with tourist traffic in years to come. It is thanks to the President of Sri Lanka, Mahinda Rajapaksa and his dynamic cabinet, including Minister Basil Rajapaksa who is responsible for tourism, that this amazing development has taken place. In the Western Province we know through experience the importance of a new international airport. Development of Negombo and the west coast as a holiday resort only began after the opening of the country’s then new international airport at Katunayake in 1967.
Nimal A. Lanza Hon. Minister of Road Development, Animal Production & Development, Housing & Construction, Fisheries and Tourism Western Province
At first passengers stopped here only in transit on flights between England and Australia. Then gradually, visitors began to make Sri Lanka their destination and flew here to stay on holiday, not just in transit. The enormous growth in tourism we have seen since then proves how an international airport is vital to the prosperity of a region.
We are happy that now there is this second major gateway to Sri Lanka so we can welcome more visitors from overseas. We are keeping our eye on the target of 2.5 million visitors by 2016 and in this respect my Tourist Board Chairman, Claude Thomasz, is being dynamic not just in organising training programmes for better service for visitors, but also in attracting an increased number of visitors from India.
As you, the visitor, tour our precious country, I hope you will be impressed by the welcome you receive, as well as by the sights, the culture, the cuisine, and the overall experience. I trust you will be amazed, and will plan to return, via either one of our two international gateways, as soon as possible.
Board of Directors: (From left to right)
Mr. Palitha Abeywardhana Director Mr. W.M.R. Roy Tissera Deputy Chairman Mr. Claude A. Thomasz Chairman Mr. S.G. Wijayabandu Director Mr. F.R. Karunanayake Director
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SRI LANKA at a glance
S
ri Lanka, officially the Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka, is an island country in the northern Indian Ocean off the southern coast of the Indian subcontinent in South Asia. Known until 1972 as Ceylon, Sri Lanka has maritime borders with India to the northwest and the Maldives to the southwest.
Sri Lanka’s documented history spans three thousand years. Its geographic location and deep harbours made it of great strategic importance from the time of the ancient Silk Road through to World War II. Sri Lanka is a diverse country home to many religions, ethnicities and languages. The Sinhalese are the majority, although there are many ethnic minorities, including Sri Lankan Tamils, Moors, Indian Tamils, Burghers, Malays, Kaffirs and the aboriginal Vedda. Sri Lanka has a rich Buddhist heritage, and the first known Buddhist writings were composed on the island. The country’s recent history was marred by a thirty-year civil war which ended in a military victory in 2009.
Sri Lanka is a republic and a unitary state governed by a presidential system. The capital, Sri JayawardenapuraKotte, is a suburb of the largest city, Colombo. An important producer of tea, coffee, gemstones, coconuts, rubber and the native cinnamon, Sri Lanka has been called The Tear Drop of India because of its shape and location and is known as “The Pearl of the Indian Ocean” because of its natural beauty. It is also known as “The nation of smiling people”. The island contains tropical forests, and diverse landscapes with high biodiversity. The country has had a long history of international engagement, being a founding member of SAARC and a member of the United Nations, the Commonwealth of Nations, the G77 and the Non-Aligned Movement. It is also the only country in South Asia that is currently rated ‘high’ on the Human Development Index.
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The National Flag
The National Emblem
The flag of Sri Lanka, also called the Lion Flag, consists of a gold lion, holding a kastane sword in its right fore paw, in front of a dark red background with four golden bo leaves, one in each corner. Around the background is a yellow border, and to its left are two vertical stripes of equal size in green and saffron, with the saffron stripe closest to the lion. The lion represents the Sinhalese ethnicity and the bravery of the Sri Lankan nation while the four Bo leaves represent MettÄ , Karuna, Mudita and Upekkha. The orange stripe represents the Sri Lankan Tamils, the green stripe represents Sri Lankan Moors, and the maroon background represents the majority of Sinhalese, like the lion, this is the colour used in early flags of Sri Lanka by kings.
The national emblem of Sri Lanka is used by the Sri Lankan government in connection with the administration and government of the country. The current emblem has been in use since 1972.
The National Bird
The National Flower
The Sri Lankan Junglefowl (Gallus lafayetii), known during the colonial era as the Ceylon Junglefowl, is a member of the Galliformes bird order which is endemic to Sri Lanka, where it is the national bird.
The Nil Manel (Nymphaea stellata) Blue Water Lily was chosen as the national flower of Sri Lanka in February 1986.
The specific name of the Sri Lankan Junglefowl commemorates the French aristocrat Gilbert du Motier, marquis de La Fayette. In Sinhala it is known Wali Kukula.
This flower is considered a symbol of Purity and Truth due to the fact that it grows in muddy water but yet emerges above it so clean and fragrant.
It was adopted in 1950 following the recommendations of a committee appointed by the 1st Prime Minister of Ceylon, The Rt Hon D.S. Senanayake.
It is closely related to the Red Junglefowl (G. gallus), the wild junglefowl from which the chicken was domesticated.
The Sri Lankan Junglefowl is most closely related to the Grey Junglefowl, though physically the male resembles the Red Junglefowl. Female Sri Lanka Junglefowl are very similar to those of the Grey Junglefowl.
The emblem features a gold lion passant, holding a sword in its right fore paw (the same lion from the flag of Sri Lanka) in the centre on a maroon background surrounded by golden petals of a Blue Lotus the national flower of the country. This is placed on top of a traditional grain vase that sprouts sheaves of rice grains that circle the border reflecting prosperity. The crest is the Dharmacakra, symbolising the country’s foremost place for Buddhism and just rule. Traditional Sinhalese heraldic symbols for the sun and the moon form the supporters.
The Blue Water Lily of exquisite beauty is a common sight throughout the island. Growing in shallow fresh waters with no season for blooming, the Blue Water Lily thrives wherever lakes, ponds or marsh land is found.
The Blue Water Lily has been offered as tribute to the Buddha for many centuries and even the Sigiriya Fresco ladies are seen holding this remarkable blossom in their hands.
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Kankesanthurai
Touring Sri Lanka Mullaitivu
Kokkilai Bird Sanctuary
Mattala Rajapaksa International Airport
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International Endorsements Below are some of the “International Endorsements” received by Sri Lanka from well-known and credible entities from around the world.
“Sri Lanka - World’s No: 01 destination to visit in Year 2013” - Lonely Planet “Sri Lanka among world’s top five exotic destinations to Visit in 2012” - HELLO Magazine, UK “ONE OF THE WORLD’S TOP 05 DESTINATIONS FOR 2012” - Conde Nast Traveller Magazine “Home to 08 World Heritage Sites” - UNESCO “No:02 In The List of Top 20 Tourist Destinations for 2010” - National Geographic Channel “ONE OF THE TOP 06 DESTINATIONS FOR TRAVEL IN 2012” - National Geographic Traveller Magazine -
“One of the Top 05 Destinations Where UK Customers want to spend their Holiday” - KOUNI Annual Travel Report “No: 01 Travel Destination of the Year 2010” - New York Times ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 17
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Source by: Sri Dalada Malidawa - Media Department
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Luxury is unveiled in the city at The Kingsbury
By Dinushka Chandrasena
T
he Kingsbury, one of Colombo’s most luxurious hospitality properties was recently opened unveiling the grandeurs and splendour of a star class hotel in the heart of the city.
array of seafood combined with the al fresco dining option creates the perfect ambiance to soak up the beauty of the location while treating your taste buds to a gastronomic feast.
Apart from the visual appeal, the Kingsbury has paid special emphasis to the finer touches which complete a luxury property, namely - personalized service. While the overall ambiance of the hotel is breathtaking, the attention to detail and the attentiveness of the staff and management sets it apart as one of the best locations for both luxury abode and superlative dining options.
The Kingsbury offers a total of 207 luxury guest rooms, 21 suites and one Presidential Suite (“The Kingsbury Suite”) for the discerning traveler which is a perfect blend of the best in technology and classical artistry in order to create a unique place of abode with a spectacular view of the Indian Ocean.
Situated in one of the most advantageous locations at the latter end of the Galle Face Green with the spectacular Indian Ocean as its backdrop, this stunning façade paves the way to the city’s newest luxury property. Its breath taking beauty is just one of the exceptional features one can experience. A testimony to a bygone era of grace and charm; the basic structure remains the same, while the restorative architecture and interior design is a feast to the eye.
The utilization of its most valuable location asset the Indian Ocean as a backdrop for both its newest al fresco dining area and the outdoor cocktail location are two of the most sought after venues for both private dining and larger functions. The primary phase of refurbishment to be completed were the ballrooms – “The Balmoral”, “The Victorian” and “The Winchester”; three locations which ooze splendour and a luxurious atmosphere. Three elegantly adorned restaurants namely ‘Harbour Court’ (world cuisine), ‘Yue Chuan’ (Chinese) and ‘The Ocean’ (seafood) will delight your senses with an array of international cuisine. For those who wish to unwind and have a relaxed evening, the Kingsbury offers its lobby bar ‘The Kings’.
The “Harbour Court” which is purposefully placed giving diners a spectacular view from every corner of the restaurant is shielded by floor to ceiling glass creating a sense of being both inside and outside at the same time. A lavish array of international dishes are on offer for breakfast, lunch and dinner and the buffet is laid out in the most visually appealing manner with the maximum number of options for even the most fastidious palate. One of the most notable facts when it comes to dining at the Kingsbury is the ‘open kitchen’ concept which takes you on the culinary journey prior to having your favourite dishes on the table. The stainless steel equipment and speedy preparation of culinary delights by the experienced kitchen staff almost instantly transports you to feel as if you are in the midst of a ‘Master Chef” kitchen as seen only on Television.
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‘The Ocean” is a feast to your senses. The delectable
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Heading the property as the CEO is Mr. Otto Stohl, an exceptional hotelier with over 25 years in the international hospitality sector who has articulated his vision for The Kingsbury saying “we offer a personalized, respectful experience with individual attention and deep concern for every guest’s singular preferences. At the Kingsbury every guest is made to feel like royalty and we promise to create timeless memories that will keep our guests returning to us time and time again.”
The typical guest rooms feature earth tone colours, white marble bathrooms, and furniture with a relaxing ivory tone, to give a sense of luxury and space. The distinctive suites on the contrary, take on a rich aquamarine hue with the addition of a separate living room and bathrooms with marble floors fitted with a Jacuzzi overlooking the sea. ‘The Kingsbury Suite’ is ideal for those who desire extravagant living spaces, as it exudes opulence & luxury from every corner. This particular suite also provides its guests with an impressive around-the-clock butler service to ensure the very best in service standards.
Commenting on the opening Mr. Mohan Pandithage, Chairman, Hayleys PLC and Hotel Services (Ceylon) PLC said “During the time in which the refurbishment was taking place, we extensively focused our attention on staff training at every level. This was primarily in preparation for the upsurge in tourist arrivals and to cater to the growing demands of our guests.” “Simultaneously the property has invested in recruiting internationally trained professionals to share their expertise and knowledge in key areas of the industry to ensure that we deliver the highest level of service excellence and are strongly positioned to be a leader in the tourism and hospitality sector.”
Hayleys, the parent group of The Kingsbury is one of Sri Lanka’s oldest and largest conglomerates with a history spanning over 134 years. Engaged in 12 strategically diversified sectors of enterprise, Hayleys is one of the most respected groups in Sri Lanka with a strong presence in the leisure industry representing several world renowned airlines as General Sales Agent, a vibrant Destination Marketing Company, Hayleys Tours and the resort hotel arm, Amaya Resorts and Spas. 5/23/2013 3:24:12 PM
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TIPS FOR TRAVELLING IN SRI LANKA Travel Tips With effect from 1st January 2012, all Holiday or Business travellers to Sri Lanka must have Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) for entering Sri Lanka. Please visit www.eta.gov.lk for more information. When applying for an ETA by third parties, payments are to be made through the arrangement made in our website www.eta.gov.lk and obtain acknowledgement of ETA application. Any payments made to other websites or agencies are not valid to process a valid ETA. Therefore, always ensure that the payments are made by accessing to Sri Lanka ETA website and avoid making repayment at the port of entry to Sri Lanka.
What Is A Sri Lankan Visa A Sri Lankan visa is an endorsement on a passport or a similar document to facilitate the legal entry of non Sri Lankans into the country and to regulate the period of their stay and the conditions governing such stay.
Tourist Visit Visa
What Are The Types Of Sri Lankan Visas
Business Visit Visa
There are four kinds of visas which permit a person to enter and/or stay in Sri Lanka.
Visit Visa A Visit Visa is an entry permit signifying the consent of the Sri Lankan Government for the admission of a foreign national to the country. The Visa contains details of the period of time and the condition/s of the stay. There are two subcategories which come under visit visas:–
A Tourist Visa is issued to bona-fide tourists who want to enter Sri Lanka for sightseeing, excursions, relaxation, visit relatives or yoga training for a short period of time. A Business Visa is issued to foreign nationals who visit Sri Lanka for business purposes for short periods of time. This visa may be issued for single, double or multiple journeys.
Photo Permits & Entrance Charges Sri Lanka is a photographer’s delight. However, permits are required before you can take photos at certain sites.
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Purchase and export without licence of any wild animal, bird or reptile, dead or alive . also the export of parts of animals, birds or reptiles, such as skins, horns, scales and feathers is prohibited. Occasional exports are, however, permitted exclusively for bona fide scientific purposes. It is prohibited to export of 450 plant species without special permits. The export of coral, shells or other protected marine products is also strictly prohibited.
Foreign Currency Regulations Visitors to Sri Lanka bringing in more than US$10,000 in cash should declare the amount to the Customs on arrival. All unspent rupees converted from foreign currencies can be re-converted to the original currency on departure as long as encashment receipts are produced.
Custom Imports
Health Precautions
You are allowed to bring into the country duty free 1.5 litres of spirits, two bottles of wine, a quarter-litre of toilet water, and a small quantity of perfume and souvenirs with a value not exceeding US $250. The import of personal equipment such as cameras and laptop computers is allowed but must be declared on arrival. However, personal equipment must be taken out of the country upon the visitor’s departure. The import of non-prescription drugs and pornography of any form is an offence. There is no duty free allowance for cigarettes or tobacco products.
The health risks in Sri Lanka are different to those encountered in Europe and North America. Watch out for bowel diseases such as diarrhoea and amoebic dysentery, vector borne diseases such as malaria and dengue fever, and a variety of fungal infections. Sri Lanka’s physicians, though, many of whom have trained in the West, are particularly experienced in dealing with locally occurring diseases.
Custom Exports On leaving the country you are allowed to export up to 10kg of tea duty free. No antiques (an antique is defined as anything more than 50-years-old - rare books, palm-leaf manuscripts and anthropological material) can be exported without permission.
Before You Visit No inoculations are compulsory unless you are coming from a yellow fever or cholera area. (Cholera is only occasionally reported in Sri Lanka, so is not considered a serious risk.)
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When You Are There..... Water Drink bottled water. There are now many brands available, mostly using spring water from the highlands of the island. Make sure that the bottle carries an SLS certification and that the seal is broken only in your presence. Beware of ice unless you are satisfied it has not been made from tap water, and remember the tap water you may be tempted to use to rinse out your mouth after brushing your teeth could be unsafe. Keep a bottle of water in your bathroom for this purpose.
Sunburn When you flop onto the beach or poolside lounger for a spot of sunbathing, always remember to apply a sunscreen product with a sun protection factor of at least 15. Remember you are just 600km from the equator: even with sunscreen, your sunbathing should be limited in time.
Prickly Heat Prickly heat rash occurs when your sweat glands become clogged after being out in the heat for too long or from excessive perspiration. The rash appears as small red bumps or blisters on elbow creases, groin, upper chest or neck. To treat it, take a cold shower, clean the rash with mild soap, dry yourself, apply hydrocortisone cream, and, if possible, a product that contains salicylic acid. Repeat every three hours.
Local Health Care Minor health problems can always be treated by doctors with practices in the resorts and elsewhere in the country. If you have a more serious problem, Colombo now has a selection of modern, well-equipped private hospitals offering the latest in conventional medical and surgical therapies. A growing number of foreigners are taking advantage of affordable, high quality private healthcare in Sri Lanka, and combining it with the chance to take a holiday. Though the medical tourism industry in Sri Lanka is still in its early days, a number of private hospitals in Colombo are geared to provide advanced surgery and other treatment to international clients
Travellers With Special Needs
Heatstroke Sometimes those who have spent too long in the sun suffer what is termed heatstroke, the most common form being caused by dehydration. This condition can occur if the body’s heat-regulating mechanism becomes weakened and the body temperature rises to unsafe levels. The symptoms are a high temperature - yet a lack of sweat - a flushed skin, severe headache, and impaired coordination. In addition, the sufferer may become confused. If you think someone has heatstroke, take that person out of the sun, cover their body with a wet sheet or towel, and seek medical advice. To avoid heatstroke, take plenty of bottled water to the beach, or buy a thambili (king coconut) from an itinerant seller.
Travellers with special needs, especially if they visit Sri Lanka without a companion, should note that the country has relatively few facilities for disabled people, although greater awareness and improvements are evolving. There’s no need to worry at Colombo’s Airport as wheelchairs and assistance in boarding and disembarking are available. Buildings, offices, and banks are becoming better-equipped with wheelchair ramps and suchlike. If you aren’t travelling with a companion, you’ll find generally that Sri Lankans will b e only too eager to assist.
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Sri Lanka’s Currency The local currency is the Sri Lankan Rupee, divided into 100 cents (you rarely come across cents today). Currency notes are Rs. 5,000, Rs. 2,000, Rs. 1,000, Rs. 500, Rs. 100, Rs. 50, Rs. 20 and Rs. 10. Beware of mistaking the Rs. 500 note for the somewhat similar Rs. 100 one. To check whether notes are genuine when not given at a bank, look for a lion watermark. Coins, should you have receive them, will be in denominations up to Rs. 10. Make sure you have plenty of lower denomination notes (Rs. 50, Rs. 100, Rs. 500), especially when travelling and you need to buy small items, fruit, and eat cheap meals, because change is often hard to come by apart from at hotels and big shops.
Banks Banks are open from 0900 hrs to 1300 hours Monday to Friday. Some city banks close at 1500 hrs, while some are open on Saturday mornings. It’s easy to withdraw money across the island at ATMs using international credit cards or debit cards.
Credit Cards Most hotels, restaurants and shopping centres accept credit cards. Some establishments may try to add a surcharge, which is illegal.
Time Difference Sri Lanka Standard Time is five and a half hours ahead of GMT. (Allowance should be made for summer-time changes in Europe.)
Electricity 230 - 240 volts, 50 cycles AC.
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Language Sri Lanka has two official languages . Sinhala and Tamil - with English as a link language. Most people have some knowledge of English, and signboards are usually in English.
Photography, Restrictions & Permits Sri Lanka is a tremendously photogenic island, so it’s hardly surprising that most tourists use a camera of some kind. The stunning landscapes, the captivating fauna and lush flora, and the stupendous archaeological remains provide great opportunities: a bonus is that Sri Lankans love to be captured on film. So it’s easy to capture the traditional rural lifestyle. You’ll find villagers, farmers, fishermen and tea pluckers will readily stand in front of your viewfinder. Your subjects will often ask to have a copy of a picture sent to them. This may be laborious, but it is a reasonable courtesy as many may never have seen a picture of themselves. It is also understandable that many will also expect a token recompense for allowing themselves to be photographed.
Restrictions There are some important restrictions that apply to photography regarding Buddhist imagery. When you visit a temple or other religious site, remember that photography should not be carried out in a manner causing disrespect. For instance, it is strictly forbidden to be photographed in front of or beside any Buddhist statues and murals. Remember that flash photography could damage old murals.
What To Wear Cotton clothes are useful at any time of the year but you will need light woollens for the hills and perhaps an umbrella. Modest dress for women is advisable especially off the beach and when visiting religious sites.
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Don’t forget comfortable shoes, sandals or trainers and cotton socks. If you are planning to trek and climb be prepared with suitable gear. Water sports enthusiasts would do well to take their snorkels and diving equipment along.
Getting There Usually all visitors to Sri Lanka travel by air; flights arrive at the Bandaranaike International Airport, 35 km north of Colombo, and 6 km from Negombo. Tour operators offer good value package holidays throughout the year.
Public Places You may sometimes be overwhelmed by crowds of people in public places (railway stations, markets, bus stands, temples or simply busy streets). “Touts” and hawkers may jostle and push and clamour to show you a hotel and sell you things.
the needs of the tourists) and collect a copy of the police entry for your insurance claim.
Where To Stay Sri Lanka offers visitors an excellent range of accommodation facilities to suit all budgets from luxury hotels to low budget accommodation throughout the year.
Drink Sri Lankan ‘Ceylon’ tea is prepared as in the West and coffee too. There are a huge variety of bottled soft drinks, including well-known international brands. Thambili (king coconut water) is a safe and refreshing option. Local beer and spirits are widely available. Bottled mineral water is available everywhere. Alcohol is not sold on Poya (full moon) days.
Safety In general the threats to personal security for travellers in Sri Lanka are remarkably small. It is more pleasant to travel with a companion and it is advised not to travel alone especially after dark. The entire island including the North and East is safe to visit. If you have anything stolen, report it to the tourist Police, (a special tourist police set up to look after
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3:43 PM 3/19/13 1 NEGOMBO AD 4 AMAZING MAG 6111.pdf
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K
CMY
CY
MY
CM
Y
M
C
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NEGOMBO AD 4 AMAZING MAG 6111.pdf
1
3/19/13
3:43 PM
Sri Lanka Tourism Celebrates ‘Avurudu’ With Foreign Visitors
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U
nder the theme of “Sri Lanka Hospitality 2013”, Sri Lanka Tourism celebrated Sinhala and Hindu New year (Avurudu) at Negombo beach (Opposite Hotel Camelot) in April. The celebration was rich with Sinhalese and Hindu ‘Avurudu’ rituals, which are exclusively found in Sri Lanka. Under the guidance of Hon. Basil Rajapaksa, the Minister of Economic Development, Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau (SLTPB) has already taken steps to provide exposure of the unique Sri Lankan culture and rituals to the world and thereby to convey the message that Sri Lanka is a very positive destination. The ‘Avurudu’ celebrations were also done with this purpose. The selection of ‘Avurudu Kumara’ and ‘Avurudu Kumari’ or the New year Prince and Princess, among the other events, was the most eye-catching event.
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Miss Yevegenia Kotenko from Russia and Mr Shota Kiladze from Russia were able to secure ‘Aurudu Kumari’ and ‘Aurudu Kumara’ titles for the year 2013. The event also offered the experience of ‘Aurudu’ sports to the participants who enjoyed pillow fighting, tug of war, bursting of balloons and climbing the grease pole and marking the eye on elephant etc.. All the foreign visitors to the event were warmly welcomed according to the Sinhalese rituals and they were entertained with cultural performances and the beat of the ‘Rabana’. They were also given an opportunity to see how the ‘ Kevum’ or oil cakes are cooked and to taste such freshly cooked oil cakes.
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The guidance and the advice of Mr. Bashwara Gunarathna, the Chairman of the SLTPB, were highly important in making this event a memorable one. Mr. Claude Thomasz, the Chairman of the Western Province Tourist Board, also played a major role in organising this event. As well as the SLTPB, Western Province Tourist Board personnel, members of the Negombo Hoteliers Association and the Sri Lanka Travel Journalists Association also took part in organising the event. They were given great support by the Sri Lanka Police, the Negombo Tourist Taxi Drivers and Three Wheelers associations. The Minister of Tourism in the Western Province Hon. Nimal Lanza, was the Chief Guest and Managing Director of SLTPB Mr. Rumy Jauffer and the Chairman of Western Province Tourist Board, Mr. Claude Thomasz, Mr. Mervin Fernandopulle Board Member Of SLTPB participated as chief guests in this event.
Pa In
Th ID
Ta w
C p
M al Pa
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Paradise Beach Hotel, which is located at the Golden Sandy beach in Negombo, is truly a paradise with its stunning view of the Indian Ocean. This 66 air conditioned bed roomed hotel offers Satellite TV, Tea making facilities, safety deposit lockers, Mini fridges, doctor on call, IDD, Internet facilities, Foreign currency encashment, laundry services etc and comprises of a swimming pool and restaurant. Talking of the Bar, Mr. Croos, the Managing Director of Paradise Beach Hotel was proud to introduce their new bar, The “Pirate Bar� which was opened December, investing a Rs. 10 million, to cater to the ever increasing demand of its visitors. Commenced just four years ago in 2008, during the peak of the war, Paradise Beach has come a long way experiencing a 90% occupation of rooms throughout the year. Mr. Croos, also hopes to renovate the hotel to create 25 new rooms with greater comforts and upgrade the entire hotel by 2014 and also to give a tasteful holiday with Western, eastern, traditional Sri Lankan cuisine or even the A la Carte menu is available at Paradise Beach Hotel every day.
PARADISE BEACH HOTEL No. 289, Lewis Place, Negombo. T: +94 (0) 31 2 224 258 | W: www.paradisebeachsrilanka.com
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KANDY POYA DAY PERAHERA
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Date for your diary: Tuesday 2oth August 2013.
T
he final night of the Esala Perahera held in Kandy annually every July/August in honour of the Sacred Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha, takes place this year on Tuesday 20th August.
It is Sri Lanka’s grandest event, a fascinating parade of almost 100 caparisoned elephants, accompanied by dozens of drummers, dynamic Kandyan dancers, whirling fire dancers, proud standard bearers, agile acrobats, spinning jugglers, and dignitaries dressed in the traditional, elaborate Kandyan costume. It is a kaleidoscopic spectacle of reverence and joy witnessed by thousands who line the streets in awe or watch transfixed by the majestic glory of the parade from seats on wayside stands and from the privileged position of balconies and top floor windows from buildings along the route. The three-hour long perahera (parade of parades) accompanies the outing through Kandy of the Sacred Tooth Relic in a glimmering gold casket strapped underneath a glittering canopy atop the most majestic elephant, known as the Tusker of the Maligawa, in a festival that dates back to the 18th century. This honours the Sacred Tooth Relic and its four guardian deities of Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Pattini. During a preliminary five days, the perahera is held within the precincts of each temple. The public peraheras then begin, taking place at night. Five of them are known as kumbal peraheras, while the final five, the most spectacular, are the randoli peraheras. DATES
Mon 05th August: Kupsituvima (Planting of the Kapa)
Sat 03rd to 8th August: Internal perahera of the Devales Sun 11th to 15th August: The five Kumbal Peraheras
Fri 16th to 20th August: The five Randoli Peraheras
Wed 21st August: The Day Perahera (Diya Kapeema: Water Cutting Ceremony) ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 39
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KANDY
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Famous for its annual procession (perahera) accompanying the Sacred Tooth Relic of Lord Buddha as it is paraded through its streets, Kandy is a fascinating place to visit at any time of the year, suggests our travel correspondent. ooo 41 | ASL ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 41
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K
andy should be on the itinerary of every visitor to Sri Lanka, not just because it is the home of the Sacred Temple of the Tooth (Dalada Maligawa) but also because – more than anywhere else in the country – it is uniquely Sri Lankan.
Colombo has the commerce and high-rise buildings sprouting alongside remnants of colonial architecture, a bustling city on the move, whereas Kandy conducts itself at a refined, more leisurely pace. It is a city at peace with itself and one that rewards every visitor with an insight into the soul of Sri Lanka.
Kandy is blessed not only with the Sacred Temple of the Tooth which exerts a great influence on the majority of the island’s population, but also with the name, Kandy, so sweet that it is irresistible. The location, the temple, the ambience, the royal history, the lake – indeed, everything about the town – is delightful.
The Sacred Tooth is an object of veneration to Buddhists, and of curiosity to visitors, making Kandy the foremost sacred place of worship in the Buddhist world. Alas, tourists don’t actually see the Sacred Tooth as it is only revealed to the devout on very rare oc-
casions. Tradition states that the Tooth was taken from the ashes after the cremation of Gauthama Buddha at Kusinar in India in 543BC. It was eventually smuggled to Sri Lanka in the 4th century hidden in the hair of a princess from Orissa.
It was lodged in many places as a symbol of nationhood until coming to rest in Kandy in 1592. The king at the time, Wimala Dharma Suriya I (1591-1604), built a two-storey shrine where the present temple stands. The golden canopy constructed over the Relic chamber was added at the end of the last century.
Every year, on the occasion of the Esala month (July/August), public honour is paid to the Sacred Tooth Relic with a 10-day public perahera. This climaxes with the magnificent pageant on the night of the Poya (Full Moon) Day.
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Kandy itself is a medieval city founded during the reign of Vikrama Bahu. From 1474 to 1511, he ruled the country from Gampola. The region formed a sub-kingdom known as Kanda-uda-pas-rata (the five ratas, or districts in the hills) or the uda rata (hill district). It became known as Kanda, soon corrupted by Europeans to Kandy.
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The presence of the Sacred Tooth Relic there was enough to confirm Kandy as the capital of the island. This status survived the pervasive presence of the Portuguese who had taken a fancy to Sri Lanka’s littoral and occupied the coast.
The Dutch, at the behest of King Rajasinghe II (1635-87) helped oust the Portuguese in 1658 but, to the dismay of the Kandyans, the Dutch were not keen to leave the island. They contrived to stay for 138 years until they succumbed to British conquest in 1796. Kandy, however, remained out of British control until 1815 when, by subterfuge and negotiations by Sir
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John D’Oyly (see later), the last king, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe (1798-1815) was overthrown. Signs of the British presence can still be seen in colonial buildings and spotting them is part of the fun of exploring the town. While many have been converted some still languish for want of restoration and many bear a plaque in three languages saying: WORLD HERITAGE CITY KANDY – CONSERVED BUILDING. That’s another aspect of Kandy visitors often overlook: the city was declared in 1988 as one of Sri Lanka’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites, alongside Anuradhapura, Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa,
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Galle, Dambulla, Sinharaja Forest and the Central Highlands.
The history of Kandy is alive wherever one walks, and walking is the best way to see the city. The premier site, of course, is the Dalada Maligawa, admission to which costs Rs1,000 for tourists. There are daily pujas (worshiping rituals) held at 5.30am, 9.30am and 6.30pm but visitors can stroll around the Temple Park and visit part of the temple at any time during the day. (Decorum in dress and behaviour is essential.) The Temple even has its
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own very informative website, see: www.daladamaligawa.org. The Temple lies beside a lake, emphasising Kandy’s ambience of languid peace. The lake was constructed by the last king of Kandy, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, in 1810-12 by damming a stream that ran through marshes skirting the town. Boats can be hired for 20-minute joy rides on the lake, but to walk around it in the shade of giant trees, seeing and meeting Kandyans relaxing too, is an integral part of the experience of the city.
For another aspect of Kandy, there is the venerable Queen’s Hotel located prominently overlooking the lake on the corner opposite the entrance to the Dalada Maligawa. The most central and oldest hotel (it was established in 1884) in Kandy, it retains an ambience of bygone days. There is also a surprise, a swimming pool deep in its interior, with the Bahirawakanda Buddha Statue atop the range of hills in the distance.
Another relic of colonial days near the Queen’s Hotel is a surprising
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cast iron fountain, a riot of cherubs and flailing fish that, alas, no longer spouts water. This was built by Victorian foundry men to commemorate the visit to Kandy in 1875 of the Prince of Wales. Further along the street (Deva Veediya), the British response to the Temple of the Tooth is St Paul’s Church, built in 1846. Behind it is the Garrison Cemetery with the graves of colonial pioneers, including the aforementioned
Sir John D’Oyly, born Sussex 1774, died Kandy 1824. He was considered an eccentric at the time because he lived simply, adopted Kandyan customs and learned fluent Sinhala. He is the British government official credited with securing the fall of the kingdom. The cemetery is on the edge of the Udawatte Kelle sanctuary, some 200m beyond St Paul’s Vicarage. This is a vast virgin primeval forest at 1,600m
covering 104ha and with more than 150 species of plant life. It makes a wonderful respite from the heat of the city to stroll through this protected forest reserve. It is open daily with an entrance fee of Rs. 622. The very energetic could walk (but it’s probably wiser to take a tuk tuk) through Kandy to climb up to the Bahirawakanda Buddha Statue for a high panoramic view of the town. Apart
to sharpen knives. from the many new buildings added to the town, the magnificent sight of the Kandy Lake and the dome of the Dalada Maligawa hasn’t changed much since British days of the 19th century.
By three-wheeler tuk-tuk is the best way to travel up the Uduwella Road to the Ceylon Tea Museum housed in former tea factory. An alabasterwhite bust of James Taylor, who planted and harvested in 1867 the first field of tea, thereby starting the Ceylon Tea In-
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dustry, is the first exhibit to greet visitors. Also on display are machines used to transform the tea leaf into leaf tea, as well as old artefacts and books about tea production.
Kandy has plenty of places for shopping in a leisurely fashion. There are alleys with small shops selling clothes, and an occasional glimpse of old craftsmen at work, either cleaning silver or pedalling a contraption with a bicycle wheel to turn a grinding stone
Under the roundabout at the beginning of the main street (Dalada Veediya) is a fountain in the centre of an underground shopping mall used by pedestrians to get from one side of the road to the other. Both sides of the road have lots of pastry shops for the peckish. At nightfall, it’s as though a film director has called “Cut!” Soon all action ceases; the whirling traffic stops, people disappear, and the streets of Kandy are left to the silent ghosts of the city’s rich heritage.
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Kandy City Centre A shopper’s Paradise in the Hill Capital Breathtaking architecture and glass encased shops arrayed with a myriad of options set a picturesque backdrop for a shopper’s paradise. Wandering around, I could not help but be mesmerized by the lure of these numerous shops as I paced the various floors of the Kandy City Centre. Words: Krishani Peiris After jostling my way through the
Kandy city Car Park is just located next
their various matters and youngsters
alighted at the threshold of KCC where
shopping.
space has become a hang out for most
crowded streets of Dalada Veediya, I the carved wooden doors, windows and
door paving the way for hassle free
the huge carved tuskers belied the
Clothing and shoe stores of excellent
Therefore, upon entering the first floor, I
furntiure stores, perfurmeries and stores
interior
of
the
shopping
complex.
was pleasantly surprised by the contrast between the old and contemporary
architecture of the exterior and the
interior, which presented a delightful feast for the eyes.
Having opened its doors to the public in 2008, after 14 years of meticulous planning and attention to detail, The
Kandy City Centre has now grown by
leaps and bounds to encompass over 65 international and local brands. The state-of-the-art
architecture
of
the
building itself is stunning with countless skylights utilised for maximum usage of
calibre,
renowned
dedicated
for
electronic
cosmetic
A landmark project that has received the
products,
Investment, Sri Lanka, KCC continuously
tel-ecommunication centres, book stores, food outlets, a super market and much accommodate
the
countless
requisites of people from all walks of life. Not stopping there, KCC has also
introduced a ‘Financial Street’ where many of the leading banks of Sri Lanka
operate beyond their usual hours to cater better to the clientele that frequents the complex , thus earning KCC the status of
being a commercial hub of the Central Province.
daylight. Furthermore the lead free glass,
Walking
cladding for insulation, recycling water
then to compare and choose various
the
surrounding
exterior
granite
for air conditioning and the usage of
ceramic filters in order to curb emissions
has created a structure that gives prominence to being eco friendly. Ample
parking can also be found as the largest
through
the
people.
and
jewellery stores with stunning decor,
more
lolled about clearly indicating that this
wide
spaced
corridors, darting into shops now and
items, I did not feel the time going by as
there were plenty to see and experience within the cozy walls of KCC. While
‘flagship
status’
by
the
Board
of
and tirelessly focuses on improving its
services and the complex in order to cater better
to
their
clientele.
These
improvements can be seen and felt as it becomes more and more renowned among all those who step into its captivating
grasp.
Furthermore,
the
efficiency and the ease that accompanies
in accomplishing most of the day to day activities make KCC ever more appealing to all who benefit from its various stores.
KCC – which has been established by a Sri
Lankan entrepreneur with 100 percent privately owned family investments –
has indeed become one of the most
frequented places in Kandy. Without a doubt we can expect more exciting events to unfold in the coming future.
strolling along, I observed as people scurried back and forth attending to
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Kandy City Centre, now fondly abbreviated as KCC, houses more than sixty reputed international and local brands for all your shopping needs. A banking street with all the leading banks, branded electronic outlets, upmarket department stores, premium IT products & communication services, a lavishly equipped supermarket and artisan jewelers are among the various shopping indulgences KCC offers. A variety of restaurants, a high-end food loft and a modern entertainment zone will be soon operational!
Kandy City Centre Your Lifestyle Shopping Destination 5, Dalada Veediya, Kandy Tel: +941 288 7878 Email: info@pfik.org Website: www.kandycitycentre.lk
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THE
BRIEF
ON
I
t takes only 30 minutes from Colombo along the Southern Highway to reach the Welipenna Junction on the way to Brief, an extraordinary garden of Eden. Drive for a further 15 minutes along the road bound for Alutgama then slow down at the approach to Dharga Town and look for a Bo Tree and shrine marking the differently named Ambagaha Handiya (Mango Tree Junction). Turn right there (or left if you are coming from Alutgama) and follow the road with its neatly painted white lines along its borders until a dignified sign board with lettering like the writing on a legal brief, directs drivers to the right.
Brief Garden,
Kalawila Village,
Tel:
Beruwala 12070, Sri Lanka.
+94 (0) 34 227 4462
Mobile: +94 (0) 77 301 9159
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The road disintegrates to a country trail until a retired fountain marks a crossroads. The extreme left fork leads through carefully manicured bushes to Brief. And a trip to Brief is a must for any visitor to Sri Lanka. Brief is a privately owned garden created in the raggedness of tired plains that proves nature can benefit from man’s help. The transforming of this former – and failed - rubber plantation by Bevis Bawa and its subsequent
BRIEF
maintenance by its current owner Dooland de Silva, is a man-made miracle. It demonstrates that with passion, experiment and ‘blood, sweat and tears,’ nature can be moulded to man’s dreams.
The dream in this case was of Bevis Bawa (1909-1992) who was given the approximately 200-acres rubber estate (acquired by his lawyer father through funds earned from legal briefs) by his mother when he was 20. He took poorly to plantation management, preferring the camaraderie of army life where he distinguished himself by becoming ADC to a succession of British governors of Ceylon. Gradually Bawa sold off acres of rubber-growing land, ploughing the funds into the creation of his dream garden; a dream based on gardens he had seen in Europe fused with the grand trees, plants and bewitching foliage of the tropics. Now there are five acres of over 120 varieties of trees, but no flowers. The only ornaments are lyrical statues peering through the undergrowth like elves, and ancient urns.
Brief is open every day from 8am to 5pm and admission costs
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Rs1,000. Visitors are left to enjoy the gardens, as one flows into another, by themselves. These are gardens that don’t need a guide, only a chance to contemplate nature’s glory (and the gardeners’ painstaking work) in solitude. After enjoying the gardens, visitors can tour the house, which has been preserved by Dooland de Silva who inherited it, as it was when Bevis Bawa died. It is an amazing example of a simple, tropical colonial life style that has visitors gasping in admiration at its quirks and beauty, including a priceless mural by the famous Australian artist, Donald Friend. Bevis Bawa claimed he had never planned his garden; it was, he said, “a happening.” Dooland de Silva shares his former employer’s passion as he uses his skills to create and landscape gardens throughout Sri Lanka. Thanks to him the genius of one man and his harnessing of nature is still available to beautify the countryside.
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TROPICAL
OYSTERS
SRI LANKA’S NEW EXPORT TO THE WORLD
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A new aquaculture initiative based on an old tradition is successfully creating, and meeting, an international demand for farmed tropical oysters from Sri Lanka, reports our business correspondent. 55 | ASL ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 55
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O
ysters from Sri Lanka were in demand more than a thousand years ago, according to accounts written from the 13th century onwards. They were sought, not for their flesh, but for their pearls.
There were oyster fields off the western shores of the island and, in his book on Ceylon published in 1859, James Emerson Tennent, the Colonial Secretary from 1845 to 1850, wrote that the oyster “may be brought within the domain of pisciculture, and banks may be created in suitable places, just as the southern shores of France are now being colonised with oysters…”
He wrote about oysters taken off the rocks in the Bentota estuary being renowned as a local delicacy, although he commented that oysters found further north “were abundant, but in size they were little more than ‘spat’, the largest being barely a fourth of an inch in diameter.”
Obviously, the ‘spat’ (the spawn or larvae of oysters) that Tennent saw should have been left in the sea to grow into the mature oysters he wanted to eat. The presence of oysters then was determined to be unpredictable since in some years there were none to be found. It is said that the best year was 1905 when 5,000 divers were reported to have brought up 80 million oysters near the village of Marichchukadi, just north of Wilpattu National Park. The harvesting of pearl oysters declined as they became scarce, taxes were imposed, and better ones were found elsewhere. Oysters for food, even though they were protein rich, did not appeal to Sri Lankans. They had to be dried and salted before they would be eaten, even by the fishing families who harvested them. It was the arrival of foreign tourists that brought about a revival of interest in oysters as a food and revenue crop. Parallel with this was the developing insatiable demand for oysters by discerning diners in the luxury hotels of Asia.
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This demand eventually attracted the attention of aquaculture experts. With bivalve resources reported to be considerable in the coastal waters of
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Sri Lanka, the National Aquatic Resources Agency (NARA), partly supported by the International Development Research Centre (IDRC), became the main governmental agency involved in the applied research of mollusc culture in the country.
A considerable number of edible oyster species was identified by the agency, with research work mostly concentrated on the large oysters Crassostrea madrasensis and C. belcheri and on the smaller Saccostrea cucullata.
A series of experiments on the culture of those oyster species in the
1980s showed that they could be successfully cultured in numerous locations along the coastal waters of the island. While the introduction of culture methods for the Indian large oyster (C. madrasensis) was successful 30 years ago, at the time there was neither substantial demand nor a viable export market to make it a worthwhile enter-
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prise.
Over the years, oyster spat fall was monitored in a number of different inter-tidal areas along the coast of Sri Lanka, notably in Trincomalee Bay (north-eastern coast), Tangalle and Mirissa Fisheries Harbours (south coast) and Puttalam and Muttuwaran lagoons (north-western coast). The degree of spat fall was seen to vary considerably from area to area, mainly due to the size of the resident oyster population.
Oyster beds are formed on a ‘cultch’ - a mass of stones, broken shells and grit - and various oyster cultches were tested, with the pleasing discovery that coconut shells could be used as their base. It was shown that the highest numbers of spat fall occur on the surface layers of the water column, usually the upper three metres, particularly for
C. madrasensis and C. belcheri. Thus the cultivation and harvesting of oysters would not involve the diving to dangerous depths as undertaken by the divers of the past in search of pearl oysters.
A paper prepared by Prof W M T B Wanninayake of the Department of Aquaculture & Fisheries of the Faculty of Livestock, Fisheries & Nutrition of the Wayamba University of Sri Lanka, studied the strengths and challenges of
the commercial production of oysters to serve the developing luxury food market. Prof. Wanninayake identified the strengths as high yield, rapid growth, simple technology, low risk, environmentally friendly, demand, a rich animal protein, adequate water depth, suitable bottom characteristics, protec
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tion from wave actions, availability of water quality, suitable tidal flow and height, low turbidity, low predation and fouling, minimum environmental effects, availability of technology, markets and seeds in natural habitat; cheap and affordable culture material and low cost of production compared to other animal projects.
Some of the challenges to the commercial production of oysters the professor identified as possible contamination with faecal bacteria and viruses; an undependable seed supply; fresh water flow during the monsoonal periods and low awareness of the value of oysters. Based on these recommendations and other research, Tropical Oysters Ltd, a Sri Lankan company, was formed to grow and export oysters commercially for the first time in Sri Lanka. Oyster farms were started in Negombo and Bolgoda lagoons. The harvest of these farms is directly exported through the Pitipana Aquaculture Centre.
Many different methods were developed to grow oysters, such as in
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bags, cages and rafts, and beds placed directly on the ocean’s bottom. Rafts with cultch made from old tires, coconut shells and dead oyster shells, provided a rough surface for the oyster spat (seed) to settle.
When the spats are sufficiently grown, they are transferred into growing beds in more nutritious areas, such as Bolgoda Lagoon, for fattening to meet export market requirements.
Today’s oysters are grown in selected areas of high nutrition and clean waters, away from any pollution and human habitat. The growing areas are regularly tested for harmful pathogens and other organisms. Regular cleaning and maintaining takes place to ensure optimum growth and meat content.
The company has a project in Acchangkulum Manna that was initiated by Hon Basil Rajapaksa and implemented through The National Aquaculture Development Authority under the advice of Prof Wanninayake. This
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is for the collection of spats and the growing of adult oysters. Tropical Oysters Ltd is the link exporter to this project.
Another project was started in Negombo, funded by the Western Provincial Council, for spat collection and for growing of oysters in Bolgoda lagoon. Tropical Oysters Ltd established the first depuration system in Pitipana, Negombo. This is in an aquaculture centre owned by the Western Provincial Council. Depuration is a process to clean and cleanse all impurities in order to make a raw oyster consumable. Oysters are filter feeders and they filter around 50 gallons of water per hour. They tend to absorb pathogens harmful for humans if the water is polluted. So depuration is essential; keeping oysters in filtered sterile seawater to clear their guts and remove any such harmful bacteria so they are fit for human consumption.
Tropical Oysters Ltd is the only company doing this in Sri Lanka. After the depuration for impurities and the manual cleaning of the oyster shell, the oysters are packed in Styrofoam boxes. With ice, they can survive alive for up to 48 hours in these boxes for transport by air to markets in China, Hong Kong, Thailand and Taiwan, as well as by road to local outlets. The company has a local sale per month of around 10,000 oysters and exports around 25,000 per month. Tropical oysters are available year round. Only during rainy months does the meat content decrease due to spawning. Since it rains in different months in different coastal areas around Sri Lanka, oysters can be harvested from farms around the country year-round. They are consumable year-round too. Besides the massive economical benefits to the rural fishing communities and the immense amount of foreign exchange earned for the country, oyster farming also has substantial environmental benefits. Having learned from the past, a new industry is beginning. And, in the words of Shakespeare, for Sri Lanka’s tropical oysters, the world is their oyster.
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FLYING VISIT DISCOVERING YALPANAM
Royston Ellis catches a plane to Yalpanam and discovers some unexpected sights and places to stay during a flying visit to the northern city. 63 | ASL ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 63
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y flying visit to “Yalpanam” Jaffna began with a 6am checkin at Ratmalana Airport. I was too early for the staff, which gave me an opportunity to admire the terminal. I was surprised to see it has the lines of an original art déco building. The exterior suggests the days when airports were aerodromes and passengers carried their own luggage to the plane. Of course, the building has been modernised with glass panelling and secure waiting areas but still scrolled corners and moulded ceilings remain to impress anyone who bothers to look upwards. I was there to take the daily morning departure to Jaffna of the single propeller Cessna Grand Caravan flight operated by Fits Air.
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The check in, with luggage inspected by Air Force security, was swift. Luckily I was assigned a window seat, 3A, great for a bird’s eye view of
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View from Fits Air Cessna Caravan
the countryside. Seating in the small aircraft is in three rows with A being a single window seat and C & D being a pair of aisle and window seats. There is plenty of legroom. The back row, against a bulkhead, features three more seats and even more legroom.
There was an air of excitement in the plane’s cabin as we bent low to enter it and crammed into our seats. The seat belts added to the novelty, being like a harness worn over the shoulder and around the hips, not the acrossthe-waist type of passenger jets.
We took off promptly at 7am and soared above Colombo’s suburbs and watched as the scenery below us softened to paddy fields and stupas. Sri Lanka from the air is even greener than I expected with hectares of undeveloped hinterland and the outlines of what look like extinct volcanic craters.
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There was no divider between passengers and the two pilots, which made the flight even more exciting, especially when a recorded voice squawked “Traffic!” and we all craned our heads anxiously to spot nearby flying aircraft. Just over an hour after take off we were circling the Palaly airstrip at Jaffna, watching stray dogs bolt for cover as the plane swooped in for a perfect landing.
The Fits Air bus was on hand to take passengers to Jaffna town but I had booked to stay at the Margosa Pavilion, some 15 minutes drive from Palaly. The guest bungalow is about 20 minutes by three-wheeler taxi from Jaffna and, having stayed in the town before, I wanted to enjoy the tranquillity of this rural mansion. The Margosa Pavilion is, in fact, one of those rare hotels in Sri Lanka that is worth the visit for itself, not
just because it’s in the Jaffna Peninsula. The six bedrooms have elegant boutique hotel accoutrements (brushed cement floors and cement block beds) some with open-roofed bathrooms, but none of the pretension of “arts & crafts” boutique bungalows. (http://www. jaffna.travel/expo-pavilion---margosa. html) Breakfast of delicious local delicacies was waiting and its subtle flavours were typical of the fine meals I enjoyed during my two night stay at Margosa Pavilion. The relaxed but willing attitude of the staff enhanced the pleasure of being there. The attention was friendly and genuine and made me feel perfectly at home.
Margosa Pavilion proved to be an excellent base for exploring the Jaffna peninsula. Fits Air organises special packages for two or three days/nights tours that include the airfare to
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Margosa Pavilion
Jaffna and back, airport shuttle in Jaffna, half-board hotel accommodation, and air-conditioned vehicles with English speaking guide.
The guide and driver were waiting with the AC van as guests finished breakfast. The itinerary included historical temples but the sight that most fascinated me was the Keerimalai Tank, used by happy youths for bathing – but no soap or shampoo allowed. It is fascinating because it is right by the sea but it is fed with fresh water by an underground stream.
At Uduvil I was intrigued by the Kantharodai archaeological site, where a field of grass is stippled with tiny stupas that are said to be tombs.
Margosa Pavilion breakfast
One of the tourists in the van wanted to try palmyrah toddy so the driver headed off towards a distant thicket of palmyrah trees, spotted what he was looking for, and stopped the bus. He led us into the undergrowth where, sure enough, a villager had a plastic drum full of freshly tapped toddy that he let us try.
Next we did a leisurely tour of Jaffna, gazing at the Fort, the Library,
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Margosa Pavilion interior
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Kantharodai archaeological site
the High Court, the Clock Tower, and diving into the market where juicy grapes and plump mangoes were on display. I bought a packet of Jaffna Curry powder, some dried salted pink prawns, and a beautiful shopping basket made of palmyrah leaves. The next day I took a tour by myself in a car arranged by the Fits Pavilion management. We stopped at the Casuarina Beach 33km from Jaffna Town on the Karainagar Road. With its whispering casuarina trees and long stretch of sand washed by shallow sea, this is a popular bathing place. Then we drove across a long causeway where prawn nets and straw-hatted fishermen define the lagoon on one side and ocean swirls on the other. Our destination was the Navy Compound, known as SLNS Elara, located at the south-western tip of Karaitivu, 21km from Jaffna Town.
Palmyrah basket
Keerimalai freshwater seaside tank
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Fort Hammenhiel
An armed sentry at the compound gates registered our entry and we drove up to the modern restaurant complex built on the shore, run by the Navy and open to guests. A short boat ride from there introduced me to Sri Lanka’s most unusual hotel, a 330-year old, octagonal Dutch Fort isolated in the middle of a lagoon.
This is called Fort Hammenhiel, apparently because the Dutch thought the tiny island resembled the heel of a ham that was how they viewed a chart of Sri Lanka (when tipped on
its side as it was often mapped). The Fort, formerly a prison and quarantine station, has been transformed into a boutique hotel with four comfortable suites and, if guests so wish, concrete pallets in one of the prison cells, with prison uniforms provided as pyjamas. It is a beautifully done conversion from an Architecturally Protected Property into a luxury hotel with, as one guest has said approvingly, “honest hospitality.� It has a courtyard garden, good for BBQs, sunrise and sunset decks, and assorted activities like snor-
kelling, diving, wind surfing and jet ski and boat trips to neighbouring islands. (www.forthammenhiel.navy.lk)
The next morning, at 9am, it was time to catch my flight back to Colombo from the newly opened terminal building at Palaly. It was as smooth and as convenient as the incoming flight, a fitting climax to my flying visit to Jaffna and my discovery of yet another of the amazing attractions that Sri Lanka has for visitors.
Fort Hammenhiel cell
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MY NEW ADDRESS
A
business traveller writes: “I stay in Colombo often on business and am happy to say that I have at last found a hotel that suits me perfectly – so much so that it’s my new address in Colombo: Colombo Cortyard.
wash basins with a separate waterfall shower corner emphasising the hotel’s trendsetting, boutique character. An amenities tray is packed with useful items for forgetful travellers like me, such as a comb, razor and toothbrush.
“Each of the 14 suites not only has complimentary Wi-Fi but also a 21-inch iMac computer, so I don’t need to lug along my own laptop. There is also a separate cyber lounge to serve the hotel’s 12 deluxe rooms. This deftly designed hotel’s bedrooms are for living in, not just for sleeping, although they do feature large, plump, modern four-poster beds.
“In spite of the hotel’s busy location within easy reach of the embassy and classy residential enclaves, shopping malls and nightlife, its bedrooms exude an ambience of peace. With a wine lounge off the courtyard and a restaurant wing with Scarlet Room restaurant, and a long Loft Bar with signature cocktails and an alcove for smokers, and roof top Cloud Café there is no need to venture out to the city and I can happily entertain my visitors in those discreet and wellserviced outlets.
“Where is it? Smack in the centre of the action and within easy reach of all I need to see and do while in the city. Not only does it have a perfect location, at the corner of Albert House Avenue and R A De Mel Mawatha (Duplication Road), it has purpose built accommodation designed specifically for the business or discerning leisure visitor.
“There are plenty of plug points, a work desk a 42inch flat television screen with satellite feed, a mini-bar, a wine chiller, a cappuccino maker, and even a retro handoperated juicer (plus a bowl of oranges on the coffee table. Each landing has a lounge area and every suite has a parlour useful for private meetings.
“The bathrooms have cement bathtubs and twin
“The hotel’s décor is refreshingly different, making a stay at Colombo Courtyard a revitalising experience, and change from the tedious mediocrity of chain hotels. I loved the fascinating climbing sculpture made out of old bicycle parts, the walls of shaved railway sleepers and the cobbled entrance courtyard.
“I am telling my colleagues and friends about my new address, Colombo Courtyard so they will look forward to meeting me there whenever I have the pleasure of staying in Colombo again.”
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Nestled in the heart of the city of Colombo, this urban boutique hotel perfectly captures a fusion of contemporary style with intrinsic elements of environmental design. Crafted around the concept of a series of open spaces, conscious lighting patterns and the use of recycled material in its unique sculptures and artistic décor, stepping in, you will leave the clutter behind. The discerning business traveller will appreciate the hotels proximity to key commercial locations and embassies. Colombo Courtyard is a quick stroll away to many of the city’s entertainment and shopping areas too.
Accommodation Courtyard
Colombo Courtyard offers a select choice of rooms & suites with your own private courtyard. Situated on the ground level this accommodation offers a heightened sense of space with a courtyard lined with tropical plants and pebbles.
Vibrant in ambience yet relaxed, this restaurant serves the finest European cuisine with an emphasis on Mediterranean specialties. The menu also offers variety with select Asian favourites too.
This rooftop cafe seats you under the stars with a view of the city’s skyline by night. The incredible setting with its breezy atmosphere lined by bamboo plants, and the soothing sounds will keep you completely chilled out.
An industrial-style bar with furnishing conceived of recycled material including creative tractor seats for bar stools, this bar has a spirit of its own.
COLOMBO COURT YARD, #32, Alfred House Ave, Colombo - 03, Sri Lanka. Reception: +94 114645333
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info@colombocourtyard.com
Web:
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Rama Trail of Sri Lanka
The Rama trail is one of the major attractions for Indian tourists visiting Sri Lanka. The trail was created following research based on the epic of Valmiki and most of the places depicted in the Ramayanaya can still be identified. Asitha Punchihewa gives the background to the story.
R
amayanaya was written for an Indian audience and thus tends to glorify the heroics of Rama who was able to defeat Ravana, the great king of Sri Lanka whose dominance and rule was felt by most parts of the world.
While the Ramayanaya glorifies King Rama from India, it villainises King Ravana. During recent times, however, researchers have dug deeper into the hidden history behind the story and discovered overwhelming evidence of an advanced civilisation.
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Astounding pieces of the jigsaw dating way back to the prehistoric human age are continuing to get unearthed by the day.
Some of the evidence has paved the way for a major breakthrough in science and technology. Ancient aircraft technology is believed to have been limited to
the South Asian region. Sketches and writings on ola leaves and gold plates are being decoded in Eurocentric laboratories. Evidence of ancient technologies such as ‘mercury vortex engine powered aircraft’ has not only surprised but challenged modern advancements of science and technology. Such technologies are being reverse engineered mainly for defence purposes. Another living example of the ancient technology is the cascade canal system and the hydro- irrigation-based civilisation unique to Sri Lanka. An
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Ravana Cave
As well as technology, some of the descriptions given in Ramayanaya explain how Hanuman brought medicines from the Himalayan region and planted them in certain parts of Sri Lanka.
c i e n t pyramids in Egypt, Mayan pyramids in South America and SriLanka’s stupas have surprising resemblances, which suggest technology transfer at some point in history.
The areas described are Ritigala, Dolukanda, Hummana and Ussangoda - all areas in which species endemic to those locations can be seen. Researchers have even identified species from certain areas of the Himalayan region that resemble species in the areas of Sri Lanka.
Rawan
a wate
rfall
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The list does not end there. Ramayanaya introduces simple radar to nuclear warfare, to time travel to the generating of artificial rain, to induced hibernation to interacting with aliens. All this could be the last chapter of coexistence of Homo sapiens and Homo erectus. The package of surprises thought to be fiction for ages may well have scientific backing.
Sufficient evidence is there to reaffirm that the Ramayanaya is not merely a glorified long standing myth. It is historic evidence depicting an episode of cultural and social transformation at least in South Asia on one hand, and an episode in history that has led to mass destruction of a civilisation
that would have even been more technologically advanced than the present day.
Over five thousand years after the incident, we should not worry much about who was victorious but it is interesting to see how the fiction continues to unfold into reality.
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GEMS & JEWELLERY FROM A MASTER GOLDSMITH A gift to treasure that will last forever
G
emstones from Sri Lanka have cachet. King Solomon wooed Queen Sheba with gems from Sri Lanka. Almost three thousand years later, Prince Charles gave Lady Diana an engagement ring with a royal blue sapphire from Sri Lanka. This became the heirloom that Prince William presented to Catherine Middleton.
The National Gem & Jewellery Authority licenses gem dealers and exercises quality control so that tourists who purchase gems and jewellery from a licensed jeweller can be assured they are buying genuine gemstones. There are many top quality, licensed jewellers in Sri Lanka and among the best is Aida Gems & Jewellery. Aida Gems & Jewellery was originally established in the west coast holiday resort of Bentota in 1975 under the personal direction of master goldsmith “Aida” (Nissanka Weerasena).
Aida, as he is known affectionately by all his clients, started his jewellery workshop to cater for the growing tourist market. He specialised in jewellery created to customers’ own designs,
with gems he himself selected as rough stones and cut and polished to perfection.
His genius at hand-picking exquisite gems, and skill at crafting the right setting in gold or silver to complement them, soon won him customers from around the world. He expanded his simple workshop and now has branches in the resort districts of Galle, Waskaduwa and Marawila as well as his main showroom at Bentota. Although Aida now employs more than 100 people he takes a personal interest in every piece of jewellery hand-crafted in his workshop, and still fashions precious pieces of jewellery himself. His attention to detail is unmatched by most jewellery retailers and has earned him an enviable reputation. Aida sources and selects only the best quality precious and semiprecious stones from Sri Lanka to offer customers. A gemstone in its raw state seems like a pretty piece of rock or pebble to the uninitiated. Only an expert like Aida knows the potential of
every raw stone that will be revealed when it is cut and polished.
The craftsmen at Aida Gems & Jewellery work to established patterns or to a client’s own designs to fashion pieces of exquisite perfection from gold or silver. When each piece is completed, Aida, or one of his experienced quality controllers, inspects it carefully to ensure it is the best possible quality and flawless in design. Every gemstone and piece of jewellery purchased from Aida Gems & Jewellery carries Aida’s personal guarantee as well as a certificate of authenticity. Since Aida is involved from source to finished piece of cut and polished stone or jewellery, he offers unbelievably good value unrivalled anywhere. Aida regards all the gems and jewellery in his showrooms as eventual heirlooms to be treasured by generations. He makes sure they are worthy of posterity -- as well as being a unique memento of Sri Lanka.
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Wildlife ‘Noel’’s 30 years of tracking SriLankan Leopard combined with a fierce passion for them in the wild, make Leopard Safaris Sri Lanka’s number one camping safari operator’
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S
ri Lanka has a diverse landscape with a variety of habitats for a wide range of flora and fauna throughout the island. Several of these species are endemic to the island. Sri Lanka’s national parks are home to numerous mammals, birds, reptiles and amphibians which include sloth bears, leopards, Asian elephants, crocodiles, deer, eagles, and a wide variety of snakes. The Sri Lankan leopard (Panthera pardus kotiya), an endangered subspecies which is native to the island is the country’s top predator. In Yala National Park Block I, which has the highest density of leopards in the world, and Wilpattu National Park you have the best chance of spotting leopards in the wild. As one of Sri Lanka’s top wildlife safari companies, Leopard Safaris offers you
an unforgettable camping experience in Yala, Wilpattu or Uda Walawe National Parks where you are likely to see several of the species mentioned. During this unique experience, you will sleep in stylish South African tents, complete with comfortable king sized beds and a range of modern comforts. The campsites are made up of non-permanent structures, ensuring minimal impact to nature, whilst still allowing us to offer you convenient and private tented accommodation, delicious al fresco wining and dining, and an unbeatable personalised service. We use customised Toyota jeeps driven and lead by our English-speaking naturalists who are dedicated to helping you spot the animals and impart their knowledge on wildlife and photography with you. Our jeeps are fully equipped with battery charging facilities, can handle every type of terrain, give an excellent view, and are specially fitted with camera support points for photographers.
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Leopard
Safaris refuses to compromise on quality,
a philosophy which
manifests itself in
every detail of the
service.
But don’t just
take our word for it!
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Y R E T S Y M A G N I P P A M
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The first printed maps of Sri Lanka, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries, show that navigators and cartographers of the time weren’t quite sure where to locate Sri Lanka, nor what to call the island, suggests Royston Ellis. 89 | ASL ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 89
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he mystery of where the early geographers thought Sri Lanka was situated, deepens when studying ancient maps and discovering that there were two quite separate islands with the names now known to describe today’s Sri Lanka: Taprobane and Zeylon.
Maps have been made since man could draw. They were scratched as plans on clay tablets, carved on stone and metal, on mosaic floors, as wall frescoes and on papyrus, vellum, linen, silk and paper. In ancient times, the Babylonians, Greeks, Romans, Chinese and Egyptians all collected maps.
An impression of one by the Greek geographer, philosopher and historian, Strabo (64BC-24AD), has survived that clearly puts an unnamed island on a map of the world alongside the western coast of India. In a compilation of maps published in 1838 in France, showing the depictions of the ancient world by geographers, a map attributed to Strabo shows Sri Lanka as Taprobane.
Fig 1 Taprobane (1978 reproduction) by Ptolemy
The Egyptian-born geographer, Claudius Ptolemy (90-168), according to the map in the 1838 compilation, puts Sri Lanka in approximately the correct place but as well as giving it the name Taprobane, he also called it Salice (similar to Zeylon?). He probably based his work on that of Greek geographer, Hipparchus (190BC-120BC) who devised a map with Taprobane lying above but parallel to the Equator.
It was only after printing was invented in the 15th century that multiple copies of a single map could be produced, and a few have survived. The early maps of Sri Lanka (from the 15th and 16th centuries) were printed from woodblocks, the background being cut away leaving the design and lettering standing out in relief. In the 15th century, Ptolemy was given a new lease of life long after his death when his Geographia was published.
This is collection of maps, remarkable considering when it was first drawn based on reports of travellers, mariners and navigators, plus a fair amount of fable, has Sri Lanka (as Taprobane) straddling the Equator. It is surrounded by a multitude of islands, some of which could be based on the Maldives, and contains a charming vignette of an elephant. The map shown here is a reproduction by the Sri Lanka Survey Department, dated 1978 (Fig 1). The popularity of books of maps began with the German cartographer, Sebastian Münster (1488-1552), whose Cosmographia became a hugely successful (24 editions over 100 years) book with its attractive maps, including one of Asia published in Basle in 1550 that includes Taprobana. But if this is meant to be Sri Lanka, it is in the wrong place. As can be seen from the map reproduced here (Fig 2), it lies off the coast of Malaqua, which is where we find today’s Sumatra. An island with the name Zaylon appears approximately where Sri Lanka is today. So what to make of the 1542 map (on which the 1992 reproduction shown here [Fig 3] is based) by Jean Rotz who produced this beautifully designed chart in Dieppe as part of his Boke of Idrography, a stunning portolan presented to Henry VIII, (portolan is historical term of a book of sailing directions).
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Fig 2 Detail 1550 by Munster
Fig 3 Asia 1542 by Rotz
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The directions on this chart would have confused ancient mariners, since two islands bear the accepted names for ancient Sri Lanka. The one in what appears to be the right place (although it straddles the Equator) is called Taprobana (and has an illustration of a ghostly elephant), while another to the southeast is called Zeilon, also an ancient name for Ceylon (Fig 4). However, if we turn the map upside down, taking note of the compass arrow that points north where today’s maps show south, Zeilon then seems to represent Sri Lanka. The mystery now is how did Taprobane became Sumatra, and Sri Lanka become known by variations of Zeylon from medieval times, until becoming Ceylon and then, in 1972, Sri Lanka?
Fig 5. Asia 1618 by Blaeu
Maps produced from the 16th to the 19th century, printed from a design and lettering cut into copper plates, were more interesting aesthetically than woodcut maps as they show graduations of light and shade, as well as being more accurate. By then a variation of Zeylon had been standardised on maps of Asia.
Maps were originally issued in the form of books and printed on one side of almost imperishable handmade paper, enabling them to be extracted from the book with ease. Incidentally, the word Atlas to describe a book of maps was not introduced until the mid 16th century when Gerardus Mercator (1512-1594) produced a collection of maps with a figure of Atlas bearing the world on his shoulders as the frontispiece. Mercator’s map of Ceilan was published in
Fig 4 Detail 1542 by Rotz
Fig 6 Detail Candy 1618 by Blaeu
1619 by Jodicus Hondius.
Shown here is a reproduction of a map of Asia published in 1618 map by William Blaeu. A beautifully designed ‘carte a figures’ first published in Amsterdam, this was incorporated unchanged into the magnificent Blaeu atlases of the next 50 years. The detail is amazing and requires a magnifying glass to read. However, Sri Lanka is in the right place (below India and north of the Equator) and is here named Zeylan (Fig 5).
One vignette on the border of the map is particularly interesting for the scene it presents of medieval Sri Lanka, in this case “Candy” (Fig 6) depicted as well laid out and fortified.
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Fig 7 Ceylon 1719 by Chatelain
Fig 8 Ceylan 1719 by Mallet
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Fig 10 Ceylan 1770 by Bonne
Fig 9 Gulf of Bengal 1740 for Maurepas
Fig 11 Detail Ceylan 1770 by Bonne
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One of the most accurate maps (Fig 7) for the time was produced by Henri Abraham Chatelain (1684-1743), a Hugenot pastor of Parisian origins best known as a Dutch cartographer. He drew on information from other maps and his map entitled “Nouvelle Carte d’Ile de Ceylon,” is remarkable for its extensive detail. As can be seen from this original map published in 1719 with manuscript notes in French surrounding it, the island of Ceylon is on its side, with west at the top instead of north.
Ceylan had become the 16th century cartographer’s name for Sri Lanka. Although the Portuguese (who called the island Ceilao) were involved in Sri Lanka from 1505 to 1658, Portuguese maps are known mostly through Italian
Rigobert Bonne (1727-95) was one of the most important cartographers of the 18th century and with the publication of his maps, the mysteries of medieval maps began to be solved. His careful depiction of southern India and “Ceylan” includes accurate renditions of the Maldives as well as arrows indicating the seasonal monsoons (Fig 10). A detail of the map (shown here, Fig 11) shows Kandy being spelt Candi, but Colombo and Negombo have assumed the names by which we know them today.
From the 19th century maps were printed from etched steel plates. As a rule they were professionally very exact and without the fascination and mystery of the maps of ancient times.
copies. It was left to a Frenchman who was a foot soldier in the Portuguese army, Alain Manessan Mallet (1630-1706) to produce some much sought-after maps of the region. Some were published in Frankfurt in 1719, including one showing “Ceylan” in the correct location and with “Pico Adam” and “Punto Galle” prominently displayed (Fig 8). There’s another mystery about the name of Sri Lanka in a map of the Gulf of Bengal published in 1740 “by order of the Count Maurepas.” Although it is a French map (Fig 9) it shows Sri Lanka with the British spelling for the island, Ceylon, not the Dutch name of Zeylan. Yet the British didn’t take the island from the Dutch occupiers for another 56 years.
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Acupuncture
A
Perfect for Natural Beauty
cupuncture is an ancient method of treatment numbering to more than 3000 years and this was started in China. Most of the western countries use Acupuncture due to the success of this which is recognized by the World Health Organization. To get more details about this we met Doctor Prasad Deshapriya the well known Acupuncture practitioner Director of Kalubowila Acupuncture Clinic. Q: How is obesity treated through acupuncture?
A: Acupuncture is answer to a perfect figure. Obesity causes individuals to mentally and physically suffer, it also lowers your level of self-esteem and prevents you from achieving your goals in life. Obesity causes a protruding stomach, causes your arms, thighs and face muscles to sag and increases your bust size. Most people think they only become fat the older they get but it is a myth. You may have seen even those who are young also become fat. The cause of the fat maybe unnecessary medicine, food containing Oil, chocolate, pudding, toffees and sweets. And also lack of exercise also may be the reason for fat. Diabetic and Asthma sometime maybe the result of fat. This could be reduced if you eat fresh fruit and vegetable and also drink water regularly. Obesity can be treated through acupuncture by stimulating certain pressure points combined with electric stimulations. Acupuncture treatments for obesity include acupoints to
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be stimulated. Acupuncture Aricular Obesity Point and Local Point. Obesity also causes your skin to stretch leaving marks. This can be treated through a method referred to as colour therapy which is used in acupuncture treatments Q: Can you increase your height through acupuncture?
A: Yes, this can be done for men as well as women,. Increasing one’s height through acupuncture can be done without any side effects, where your height can be increased up to 2 or 3 inches. This can be done by successfully combining acupuncture with a special treatment developed for this purpose. Q: How is Hair loss Treated?
A: Hair is one of the most important parts of our Life unnecessary treatment for Hair gel and tint may cause for hair loss. Acupuncture treatments for hair loss include acupoints to be stimulated. Q: What other diseases can be treated through acupuncture?
A: Acupuncture is an effective method of treating a variety of diseases and medical complications such a skin and medical disorders, asthma, hair loss, pre-mature graying, arthritis, sexual disorders, Kidney problems, diabetes, headaches, pimples, back pain, gastritis, height problems, spider veins, drum addiction etc.
By Dr. Prasad Deshapriya Kalubowila Acupunture Clinic, De Silva Road, Kalubovila. M: +94 (0) 714 299 777 E: vpdeshapriya@gmail.com W: www.kalubovilaacupunture.com
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GETTING AROUND SRI LANKA
I
n travelling around Sri Lanka, foreign tourists should be aware that Health & Safety regulations (and even driving courtesy) that may apply in the home country, have no impact here. However, by keeping your wits about you and remembering the few tips detailed here, you will be amazed at the fun to be had discovering Sri Lanka as you travel around by yourself, with a partner, or friends.
There are those who advocate solo travel as the best way of learning about a country. The solo traveller doesn’t have anyone else to worry about and can act on instant whims without a companion wanting to do something else. The solo traveller is more likely to be welcomed in private homes, even to stay a night or two, than if that traveller is part of a group of friends, or a couple.
The downside of travelling by oneself is missing the company of friends with whom to share, and talk about, experiences, and also having someone to help with luggage (including keeping an eye on it). And in Sri Lanka, most hotel and guesthouse accommodation is designed for two, with no discount for single occupancy, so there is no saving in room cost. For all independent travellers, whether solo or a couple or in a group, realisation sets in on arrival at the airport. There is no dedicated airport-toColombo bus service, and no longer is there a special train connection. Guests with pre-booked accommodation should request airport pickup when they make the hotel reservation. The driver will wait in the arrivals hall with a signboard with the booked passenger’s name. If you haven’t arranged transport in advance, then it’s best to book and pre-pay for a taxi through the taxi counter located in the arrivals hall (after customs clearance), before leaving the airport. There are taxis available for hire outside the airport, but no organised queuing system and not all the freelance drivers offering taxis can be relied on. If you do decide to try one of the freelance operators, insist on seeing the vehicle (and the driver, since he may not be the man who lured you to use his service) and agree the price before getting in the taxi. What price? Ask at the official taxi despatch counter in the arrivals hall, or at the tourist enquiry desk, for an idea of the current rates. That will give an idea of what you should expect
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to pay. (It is also advisable to have rupees – they can be bought with foreign currency at the bank counters directly outside the customs hall – since drivers won’t be able to exchange money, and won’t have change for big notes so make sure you have some Rs100 notes too.)
For returning to the airport, there are more options. Some taxi services operate vehicles to the airport and passengers pay a price just for the seat, not for the whole taxi. It’s also possible to go by local bus or train although that’s not recommended because case of delays and discomfort. Some tourists like to hire three-wheelers to get to the airport and this could be cheaper than a taxi, but nevertheless
quite nerve-wracking for the 32km trip sitting cramped with luggage through heavy traffic from Colombo.
On arrival, once ensconced in hotel or guesthouse, it could help to check out what transport options the establishment has for tourists who want to see the country independently. Parked outside beach resorts are private vans that can be hired with driver/ guide, especially in the Western Province, which runs a scheme for training and licensing tourist drivers.
Some drivers organise complete tours, including accommodation, and charge a package price. Others will drive according to your itinerary. The per-day price or kilometre charge should be agreed before starting the
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Source by: MAL-KEY Rent A Car
hire. The driver will also want an overnight fee, although his accommodation and meals are usually provided free of charge by the guesthouse/hotel where you stay on the tour. For short trips, especially in Colombo, it is advisable to use a hotel’s recommended taxi service or chauffeur driven cars (at a declared fixed rate per hour or per kilometre), so there is some guarantee of getting where you want to go – and back again. If the hotel doesn’t have a transport desk, there are several radio cab services, that can be telephoned, but give at least 30 minutes notice as traffic may be heavy and the taxi might not pick you up immediately. These charge Rs68 per km and the cost of longer journeys, such as to Kandy (116km), can be negotiated with them.
For short journeys around Colombo, a new service has been introduced using Indian-made Nano cabs; small, mini-cars. They’re a bit cramped if you’re tall, especially in the back seat, but cheap and cheerful and more reliable than the ubiquitous three-wheeler taxis, or tuk-tuks to give them the popular name borrowed from Thailand.
Source by: MAL-KEY Rent A Car
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Tuk-tuks can be flagged down on the street. If they don’t have a meter, and the driver speaks a bit of English, negotiate the price before boarding. If you’re not sure what is reasonable, listen to what the driver tells you and then tell him: No thanks. Walk away in the opposite direction so he can’t fol-
low you, and flag down another tuktuk. With an idea of the price from that first tuk-tuk, you have an idea of a starting point for negotiation. The driver will usually build in a tip to his fee, but if you’re happy, add between Rs20 and Rs50 when you pay.
When you find a good tuk-tuk driver who knows where you want to go and can communicate properly, use him exclusively. Do not, however, go into any shops with him, as he will dive in as you leave and claim a commission on whatever you buy. He will do the same if he takes you to a casino. (By the way, casinos will provide free transport on request from and back to your hotel, if you play.)
There’s less hassle when it comes to paying a tuk-tuk if you take a metered one. These have rates beginning at Rs50 a km with Rs32 for every subsequent kilometre. Buses are not recommended for getting around Colombo as they are usually packed with passengers. There are no underground or sky trains in Colombo. Travelling out of Colombo need not be difficult. There are long-distance air-conditioned private buses with guaranteed seating operating from the Pettah bus station (tel: 011 315 0916), near the Colombo Fort railway station. However, avoid the all-stopping government buses, as they will be packed with standing passengers. There are also special buses making the trip to
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Jaffna and other far-flung destinations, like Trincomalee, Matara, Anuradhapura and Kandy.
To travel south there is a brand new option, long distance air-conditioned buses (Route number EX-01) that use the new Southern Expressway to Galle. These leave from the Kottawa bus station (itself a 45-minute bus ride – Route 138 - from Pettah, or take a tuktuk) and run to and from Galle every 20 minutes throughout the day. Seats can’t be reserved so if the bus is full, wait for the next one; the fare is Rs. 470 and the journey takes about one hour. Sri Lanka has a functioning long-distance train system but tourists should try to avoid travelling on trains dedicated to commuters (ie: evening trains from Colombo; and morning trains into Colombo), as they will be crowded. Standing for two hours while the train sways and hurtles along, is not the best way to enjoy Sri Lanka. To Kandy, the best trains are the two Intercity departures (at 7am and 15.35pm) with seats bookable by going to the Colombo Fort railway station booking office no more than 10 days in advance. Seats can also be booked on other long-distance trains to the hill country, Trincomalee, and Anuradhapura. Information is available by telephoning the Government Information Centre on 1919. Train timetables can be consulted on http://bit. ly/1641Amu
(www.exporail.lk and www.blueline.lk) attached to scheduled trains. While the fares are much higher than travelling in 2nd Class or the Observation Saloon, breakfast or a snack and unlimited tea/ coffee are included in the price, as well decent toilets and tranquillity to gaze at the scenery from comfortable, reclining seats. It is not fair to you, or to locals who can only afford the cheapest ticket and might not get a seat if a tourist takes it, to travel in 3rd class. Flying from one part of Sri Lanka to another is being developed, with seaplane flights and some companies offering helicopter and fixed wing aircraft for charter. There are also scheduled flights (although not daily) to Jaffna and Trincomalee run by independent companies (www.fitsair.com and www.helitours.lk).
For brave drivers who have the patience to tolerate the illogical interpretation of the Highway Code (for
instance, a flashing right-side indicator can mean the vehicle in front wants you to overtake, not that he is turning right), self-drive cars are available from a number of international companies. Rates start at US$50 per day, unlimited mileage. These companies also have chauffeur-driven vehicles with a maximum of 100km per day at US$60, and extra charges for driver’s nights away from base. If you going to drive yourself, a local driving permit (show your International Driving Permit) is necessary and can be obtained through the Colombo Automobile Association’s office (tel: 011 242 1528), at a cost of Rs2,500. Make sure you have adequate personal accident insurance.
Motorbikes, and even bicycles, can be hired in the major tourist resorts. Check everything is in good condition before agreeing to the hire. Bring your own cycle? Some tourists do and enjoy cycling on hill country roads that, while strenuous, have less traffic. It is also possible, in the hill country, to get around by resorting to basics by going hiking or trekking. There are a number of trekking guides who can be contacted in resorts like Nuwara Eliya and Haptuale. However you decide to get around - by taxi, bus, train – or simply walking – it’s enjoyable (although walking is hot) and pretty safe as long as you keep your wits about you and are prepared for delays, allowing time for those amazing serendipitous moments that make travelling in Sri Lanka so rewarding.
More comfortable and more easily securable is a seat in the special carriages run by two private companies
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OCEAN BREEZES WITHOUT OCEAN PRICES ! -: Restyled - Redesigned - Reinvented :-
HOTEL SUNHILL, Colombo #26, Palmyrah Avenue, Kollupitiya, Colombo 03. T: +94 (0) 11 259 9299 F: +94 (0) 11 255 4572 Hot Line: +94 (0) 777 705 805/+94 (0) 719 705 805
HOTEL SUNHILL, Nuwara Eliya #18, Unique View Road, Nuwara Eliya. T: +94 (0) 52 222 2878, 222 3300 F: +94 (0) 52 222 3710 Hot Line: +94 (0) 777 801 755
SUNHILL CHINESE RESTAURANT, Colombo #26, Palmyrah Avenue, Colombo 03. T: +94 (0) 11 259 3535
HOTEL SUNHILL, Mount Lavinia #38, Station Road, Mount Lavinia. T: +94 (0) 715 363 505
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HOTEL SUNHILL, Katunayake #56/1, Liyanagemulla, Seeduwa, Katunayake. T: +94 (0) 11 225 5444 F: +94 (0) 11 226 5180 Hot Line: +94 (0) 777 953 953
SUWATHA MADURA – AYURVEDA SPA #26, Palmyrah Avenue, Colombo 03. T: +94 (0) 11 259 3131 Hot Line: +94 (0) 777 717 000
Eg 56 Se +9 SUNHILL CHINESE RESTAURANT, Katunayake #56/1, Liyanagemulla, Seeduwa, Katunayake. T: +94 (0) 11 225 3153
S SPA #56/1, Liyanagemulla, Seeduwa, Katunayake. Hot Line: +94 (0) 777 929 929
The hotel offers spacious rooms with breathtaking views of the ocean. Bright and airy, they are fitted with cable TV, telephone & internet facilities. To relax, guests can visit the hotel’s spa & entertainment. 24-hour restaurant & pub offers an all-day dining menu. Authentic Indian, Chinese & Western cuisine is served at the restaurant.
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#26, Palmyrah Avenue, Kollupitiya, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka. T: +94 (0) 11 259 9299 | F: +94 (0) 11 255 4572 Hotline: +94 (0) 777 705 805, +94 (0) 719 705 805 E: info@sunhill.lk/sunhill@sltnet.lk | W: www.sunhill.lk
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Sapphire Karaoke Club 20/3, Abdul Gaffoor M.w, Colombo 03. +94 (0) 714 124197
Ego Club 56/1, Lliyanagemulla, Seeduwa. +94 (0) 714 124186 Pier 3 Karaoke & Pub 38 F, D.R. Wijewardana M.w, Colombo 10. +94 (0) 714 124198
Flame Karaoke 26, Palmyrah Avenue, Colombo 03. +94 (0) 714 124193
e TV,
u. Texas Karaoke & Pub 594/2, Galle Road, Colombo 03. +94 (0) 714 124189 ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 103
Lush Bollywood 21, De Vos Avenue, Colombo 04 . +94 (0) 714 124188
Winter Bollywood 19, Union Place, Colombo 02. +94 (0) 714 124196 103 | ASL 5/23/2013 3:29:26 PM
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FILMED IN SRI LANKA
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Sri Lanka has not always been recognised as the go-to place for international films in the English language. However, the country has played host to many big budget foreign films over the past 50 years, reports Rehan Alexander Mudannayake.
“D
avid Lean was my film school. I felt blessed to work under him,” says Chandran Rutnam, prominent filmmaker and President of Asian Film Location Services.
Work as a prop man on Lean’s epic, The Bridge On The River Kwai, in 1957 at the tender age of 16 inspired the young Rutnam’s passion for film. Following this experience with Lean as his “right-hand man,” the enthusiastic Rutnam lived and worked in London and Los Angeles, attending film school and working at Warner Bros. In 1980 he persuaded director John Derek to shoot Tarzan the Ape Man in Sri Lanka instead of Kenya. It was his big break. “Then the war broke out.”
Rutnam recalls Charles Martin Smith’s Fifty-Fifty, starring Peter Weller. “While we were on a recce, we saw tanks rolling down the streets.” It was a difficult period in Sri Lankan history and all Rutnam’s films had to be shot in Malaysia instead. “No big American film could come here because they weren’t able to insure their actors,” he explains.
“Now that the war is over we are hoping we can bring more films to be made in Sri Lanka but we have to cut out the red tape,” says Rutnam. Arguing that film is the most powerful communication medium in the world, Rutnam contends that foreign films provide Sri Lanka’s own crews with invaluable experience: “You
must leave films to the private sector because the ancillary benefits are tremendous,” he adds.
The passionate Rutnam has been trying to convince the government to rebuild the bridge used in The Bridge on the River Kwai as he believes people will “come by the dozens.” The actual bridge in Thailand has attracted thousands of tourists, resulting in it becoming a major tourist attraction with hotels springing up around it. Gopi Dharmaratnam and Ainsley De Silva of The Film Team, the other major Sri Lankan film production company, are also quick to stress the importance of film tourism. “Sri Lanka has so much potential that needs to be represented,” they say. They cite New Zealand as an example. The Lord of the
The Bridge On The River Kwai
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Rings was filmed there and the sets and locations were made into attractions to generate publicity and attract tourists to visit the country. The Film Team claims it is important Sri Lanka does the same. However, they are quick to stress that attracting films is equally important. “A system of tax rebates, whereby it offers a percentage return on the film being made, regardless of profits, is essential.” They add that Sri Lanka will always have beautiful locations; yet there must also be incentives for foreign backers. When asked why Sri Lanka is often chosen as a location for films, Dharmaratnam and De Silva claim it is partly due to the charm of its breathtaking locations and, in their case, the talent of the Film Team’s art department, led by world-renowned production designer Errol Kelly.
Having initially worked with esteemed Sri Lankan veteran director Lester James Pieris on a handful of films, Kelly moved onto Hollywood fare: namely the mega successful sequel in Steven Spielberg’s Indiana Jones trilogy, The Temple of Doom. Kelly’s work for Spielberg building gargantuan sets from scratch earned Sri Lanka international acclaim. Kelly jokes about how the Sri Lankan Olympic team was introduced in Los Angeles as coming from the country “where Steven Spielberg’s Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom was filmed.”
Chandran Rutnam with Steven Spielberg
David Lean at work
But Kelly does not simply advertise Sri Lanka as a picture postcard location. “Apart from a picture’s actors, it is the production design that audiences notice,” he says.
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Chandran Rutnam at New York Film Festival
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He believes that the art direction sells a picture to the audience. The more realistic a location or set, the more believable and coherent the storyline becomes to the viewer. A particular colour, a single prop or a stunning location has the potential to alter a viewer’s perception of a scene or character, highlighting the significance of the production designer’s role.
In 2011, I myself had the pleasure of working on Deepa Mehta’s latest epic – an adaptation of Salman Rushdie’s Bookerwinning novel Midnight’s Children. This was not the first time Mehta had shot a picture in Sri Lanka. Her Oscar-nominated Water, initially shot in India, was completed in Sri Lanka after displeased citizens in India burned her effigy, tearing her sets down and throwing them in the Ganges. Water dealt with a contentious issue: the future of young girls married off to old men. When these old men died the widows had three options: throw themselves on their husband’s funeral pyre, marry their brother or live in poverty for the rest of their lives. Following the tale of young Chuyia, doomed to this existence at the tender age of seven, this grandiloquent piece of stunning cinema wowed audiences the world over in 2005 and brought Sri Lanka into the limelight.
Kelly’s wealth of knowledge allowed him to take on a mammoth project like Midnight’s Children after working on Water, which only contained a handful of locations, many constructed entirely from scratch. Why did Mehta also choose to film Midnight’s Children in Sri Lanka?
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“Experience,” says De Silva. Kelly’s skill allowed him to cheat: both Water and Midnight’s Children, although shot primarily in Sri Lanka, resemble parts of India.
“Midnight’s Children,” says Dharmaratnam, “contained no less than 65 locations and sets.” (One of which, an entire slum constructed in Maligawatte, was torched at the end of the picture.) “The film was a marvellous opportunity to show what Sri Lanka could do.” Mehta is one of the world’s foremost auteurs. The collaboration between her and the Film Team led to Midnight’s Children being screened at many of the world’s finest film festivals: Toronto, Telluride and the BFI London festival.
Rutnam believes the number of foreign films shot in Sri Lanka will only multiply. This passionate go-getter has already begun distributing his latest directorial effort: A Common Man, starring Sir Ben Kingsley and Ben Cross. A psychological thriller shot in Sri Lanka, it is about a terrorist who threatens to detonate bombs unless a group of prisoners are set free. Rutnam’s behind-the-scenes footage painted a particularly favourable picture of Sri Lanka’s involvement, with
Kingsley stating that Rutnam’s work process was smooth and fast, and an unforgettable experience. Kingsley only had time for 14 days; Rutnam shot him in 11. Kingsley speaks about the high levels of communication between Rutnam and his crew with whom he worked closely. Rutnam already has another English language film in the pipeline: Prince Siddhartha.
“We cannot limit ourselves to English language films,” claims the enthusiastic De Silva, “we want to branch out as much as possible.” He refers to the German adventure drama, Emden Men, that the Film Team collaborated on last year.
Released late in 2012, it is based on a true story of 50 men whose ship sinks during World War One. Forced to traverse the dangerous seas and deserts in a bid to return to their home country of Germany it is a stunning portrayal of courage and determination. And this is not all: the Film Team have multiple foreign pictures lined up for production next year. “We are willing to take on the challenge of Emden Men and Midnight’s Children again,” says the triumphant Dharmaratnam. ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 109
The future for Sri Lanka’s film industry is bright.
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FROM DOG CARTS TO
TUK-TUKS
T
he arrival of the first threewheelers in Sri Lanka was not three decades ago as many people think, but in the 19th century. Up to 25 years ago, however, when tourists wanted a taxi, they would usually take one of the ubiquitous but battered Morris Minor cars parked at major corners in every prominent town. As upmarket visitors began to arrive to stay in five-star hotels, airconditioned chauffeur-driven hotel vehicles were provided for guests. Beach hotel tourists would hire air-conditioned, and re-conditioned, minivans to tour, as they still do today.
Gradually radio taxis were introduced for Colombo residents, alongside auto-rickshaw three-wheelers imported from India. At first these
Morris cars were popular as taxis
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horse-drawn vehicles used by prosperous citizens in the 19th century.
More common was the lowly dogcart, a two-wheeled cart with crossseats back to back. It originally contained a compartment for dogs, so its name was not entirely derogatory (Fig 1).
The gharry, a horse-drawn carriage introduced from India to ply the streets of Colombo for hire, served members of the public who could afford it. As many couldn’t, an alternative method of transport for hire was introduced in 1883. This was when the first hand-pulled rickshaws were imported to Ceylon by Messrs Whittall and Company.
Today the threewheeler taxi or “tuktuk” is the transport of the Sri Lankan or tourist who wants to get somewhere in a hurry. But it wasn’t always so, discovers Sasindu Balage.
three-wheelers were confined to Colombo but then they made the journey to Kandy and instantly became popular there and in other cities. Now they are to be found even in rural villages high in the hill country.
Like the palanquin, these were man-powered not horse-drawn. The early models were driven by two “coolies” as they were known, one pulling and the other pushing from behind. These two-wheeled contraptions originally had iron wheels, which made them very difficult to manoeuvre and were noisy on Colombo’s cobbled streets. They were small, lightweight carts with springs and large wheels. The rickshaw puller clutched the two shafts protruding from the front of the rickshaw and ran along holding them firmly. According to an article in the Sunday Times of Colombo, The Graph-
ic, an illustrated journal published in England, carried in its issue of 11 November 1893, illustrations of “A Ride In A Ceylonese Tricycle.” (Fig 2). This is based on sketches by the Ceylonese artist, J K Van Dort. It presents a sorry tale of the fate of a passenger in such a matter of fact way one can only be impressed by the Englishman’s sangfroid. The captions begin: “In a remote village, Spindle Shanks, Esq., seeks a conveyance.” It continues: “A curious contrivance on three wheels turns up. It is Hobson’s choice with friend Shanks, and he steps in.”
“The caption continues, “The motive power is supplied from behind and Shanks does the steering. Two coolies toil painfully with it up a steep ascent, and pause a while on the summit for a mouthful of fresh air. “The carriage descends the hill easily and rapidly. One of the coolies stumbles and loses his hold on the vehicle. His companion is unable to cope single handed with the machine.”
It concludes: “Spindle Shanks makes frantic endeavours to steer clear of dangers. A capsize at the foot of the hill is the consequence. A good Samaritan appears opportunely.” Undeterred, colonial settlers and the Ceylonese continued to demand accessible ways of independent travel. A later model of the rickshaw had lower, pneumatic wheels. Although
It wasn’t always so. The original “rickshaws” of Sri Lanka were reserved for the nobility. The fact that what we call a tuk-tuk today (using a word borrowed from Thailand) is known in India as an auto-rickshaw is a clue to its descent in design and convenience from the hand-pulled rickshaws of the late 19th century.
These were themselves a version of the palanquin in which a dignitary was carried by four men holding a pole at each corner of a litter. The addition of wheels was derived from the ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 113
Carts & rickshaws Colombo 110 years ago (Fig 1)
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Rickshaw in Galle Fort, 1985 (Fig 3)
The first three-wheeler, 1893 (Fig 2)
Ricksha and passengers 1900 (Fig 5)
Two rickshaws, early 1900s (Fig 4)
New 4-stroke auto-rickshaw (Fig 6)
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this was an improvement, rickshaw pullers didn’t like it because its smaller wheels made it difficult to pull. It was only when the iron wheels were replaced with larger wheels fitted with solid tyres that the rickshaw became a popular mode of transport.
While the advent of the motorcar replaced rickshaws for private use, rickshaws remained available for the public to hire even after the introduction of trams in Colombo in the early 1900s. As recently as 1985, there were still some man-powered rickshaws plying for hire in Galle Fort (Fig 3).
Rickshaws (Fig 4) were popular with early 20th century visitors for sightseeing. On the back of a postcard (Fig 5) of a woman travelling in a jinrickshaw in Colombo, the writer has noted: “This is the mode of conveyance here. One can be hired for an hour for 25 cents (four pennies) and he’ll run you about all the time without stopping.” The rickshaw gave its name to the auto-rickshaw, (the three wheeler or tuk-tuk in use in Sri Lanka today). The recently introduced new model 4-stroke auto-rickshaw with three wheels (Fig 6) has actually descended ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 115
from the popular two-wheel Italianmade scooter, the Vespa.
The inventor of the Vespa, the Italian aircraft designer Corradino D’Ascaino, created a light, commercial three-wheel vehicle in 1948, called the TriVespa. In 1956 a cab was added to the design and the three-wheeler became known as the Piaggio Ape. Ape means bee in Italian, so perhaps it was called that because of the buzzing sound of the vehicle’s engine.
Long before that, in 1926, Jamnalal Bajaj, an adopted son of Ma-
hatma Gandhi, founded the Bajaj Auto Company in India. His company began manufacturing the three-wheel autorickshaw based on the Italian model, in India in 1959. It became the rearengine vehicle we know today in 1977.
The Morris Minor was replaced as the convenient taxi of Colombo and the country towns following the importation of these vehicles from India in the 1980s. It had taken 100 years after the first Ceylonese three-wheeler took to the roads for a motorised version to be introduced here for hire.
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Koggala 222 442 269
74 119 122 306
Hikkaduwa 320 494 381
56 215 184
79 157
72 331 183
25 298 247 248 248 133 191
72 318 176
61 226 183 52 236 174
55 203 212 64 212 204
9
66 157 376 206 96 52
60
56 243 190
34 253
82 220 72
312 335 309 210 238
96
45 121 156 306 121 85 112 280 218 236
74 240 82 138 373 355
198 220 195 206 149
106 166 53 296 39
53 290
37 281
138 31 237 179 228 292 186 309 56 233 123 262 129 230 398 175 112 277 167 312
47 250 138 253 98 221 388 159 58 364 304 277 195 168 249 138 377 337 121 111 113 367 218 170 216 101 304
89 177 175 112 209 158 260 336 222 103
29 288 109 132 106 237 86
284 178 312
373 381 370 203 299
99 244 280 321 195 100 236 406 131 200 322 344 318 219 247
90 235 271 329 186 108 227 395 140 209
24 256 230 134 273 128 454 170 206 134 134 241 175 370 159 211 242 222
A'pussa 154 177 168 243 122 115
80 358 85 112 100 264 90
367 259 404
93 312 142 160 12 35 180 216 322 131 101 169 340 195 264 257 280 254 222 183 75 148 367 197 105 43
32 167 229 237 230 206 66 272 322
88 47 309 160 129 150 68 270 140 174 24 192 307 296
56 242 129 262 106 230 397 151
80 148
34 346 187 260 366 217 295 212 336 315 286 224 95 106 270 296 162 322 301 238
21 180 219 80 378
35 325 460 346
Batticoloa 367 358 303 163 175 380 142 261 397
12 171 228
44 333 451 337
55 164
27 63 174 43 250 132 198 24 182 332 322 13 209 428 257 45 104 151 290 332 303 248 150 288 455
97 345 301 72 232 167
Ella 232 230 109 245 133 452 180 179 133 110 216 175 370 159 187 220 222
17 307 512 383
Habarana 323 272 223 222 115 215
43
96 165 356 379 353 216 282
74 333 225 242 402 226 164 219 111 317 104 308 31 191 410 241 61 87 133 278 315 316 230 133 271 438
Inginiyagala 459 114 302 204 185 291 246 375 220 262 332 355 184 175
Galle 289 122
108
Jaffna 348 439 320 565 524 303 218 295 557 408 375 398 283 486 269 422 262 246 555 543 237 348 142 484 234
Kalutara 159 240
8 240 222 117 253 141 445 188 171 124 118 224 168 361 150 195 212 213
Badulla
182 203 179 164 157
65
6 210 182 199
77 140 264 129 142 92 264 275 223
81 399
(Pasekudah) - Kalkudah 325 196 262 370 190 266 182 339 294 262 227 65 142 242 298 132 291 304 241
26 276 128 99
19 367 260 425
65 134 385 367 382 187 313 175
300 322 298 198 226
42 237
87 136 355 185 117 31
174 264 77 402 150 507
156 179 153 192 133 297 87 119 79 246 253 270 164 187 161 206 115 311
30 118 164 278 246 287 261 164 302 470
68 254 105
27 471 461
Matale 303 154 127 103 114 292 154 167 71 238 314 251
Kataragama 153 288 483 273 123 271 318 168 324 181 376 169 342 511 86
Colombo 148 205 116 172 238 99 320 396 282 43 116 283 130
Anuradapura 272 163 196 270 261 206
269 292 266 234 195 293
Matara 148 195 245 377 258 293 169 331 501 35 104 418 336 414 158 343 145
Mt-Lavinia 47 192 228 334 143 106 181 352 183 252
96 136 153 308 230 299 237 261 235 257 148 340
87 234 192
129 64 142 243 134 348
Nueara Eliya 217 187 206 148 174 341 210 146 259 224 256
Polonnaruwa 202 175 241 67 227 365 302
Hambantota 140 184 546 262 193 245 45 108 243 462 270 77 226 273 167 323 180 330 124 322 489
Dambulla 206 264
180 240 127 295 51 400
78 192 259 298 174 77 215 383 152 221
Beruwela
Bentota
109 131 124 255 100 358
Sigiriya 206 331 314
Ratnapura 198 365 133 151 283 296 280 121 234 191 (Arugam Bay) Pottuvil 377 221 268 430 222 159 246 138 344 100 355 205
Bandarawela 183 198 205 197 197
Kilo Meters (KM)
43
69 408 301 412 122 369 110
59 380
201 291 105 430 177 535
Tangalla
345 238 403
Trincomalee 108 97 286 146 391 Tissamaharama Talaimannar 496 489
Mannar 211 473 324 281 314 200 401 185 338 185
Kandy 245 246
Wellawaya 321 105 Vavuniya 344 86 449 Valaichchennai 206 179 197 284
Puttalam 206 156 212 326 354
(Colombo Airport) - Negombo 166 196 357
Kurunegala 219
Yala Wilpattu 426
117 | ASL ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 117
5/23/2013 3:29:51 PM
118 | ASL ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 118
5/23/2013 3:29:52 PM
1 | ASL ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 1
5/23/2013 3:29:54 PM
ASL 04 Final v1.0.indd 2
5/23/2013 3:29:55 PM