T h e
B e a u t y
o f
P a r a d i s e
Volume VII
Amazing Sri Lanka is a publication of the Western Province Tourist Board, Sri Lanka.
1 | ASL
2 | ASL 1 | ASL
Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka
Hotel
* conditions apply
Head Office: 335/A, D.R. Wijewardane Mawatha, Colombo 10 For Reservations: (+94 11) 233 3319 (Mon - Fri 9.00 a.m. - 5.00 p.m.) (Sat 9.00 a.m - 1.00 p.m) Tel: +94 (0) 25 22 37806, +94 (0) 25 22 26384 E-mail: info@heritagehotel.lk www.facebook.com/heritageanuradhapura www.heritagehotel.lk
Basic Booking (Double & Triple with value additions) Offer valid for Sri Lankans and Resident Visa Holders – valid till 31st October 2014
DISCOUNT
30%
Isurumuniya Temple Sri Maha Bodhiya Lowamahapaya Ruwanweliseya stupa Jethavanaramaya Sandakadapahana
Nearby sites
Located at the very Heart Of Anuradhapura, The first capital of Sri Lanka, The Heritage Hotel Is a haven for those seeking Luxury while discovering this ancient Kingdom
Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka
Pampered in luxury
Surrounded by history
2 | ASL
3 | ASL
4 | ASL
Ayubowan! May You be Blessed with Long Life... The Sri Lankan traditional gesture of welcome with fingers of both hands touching each other & both palms claspe d together the age-old gre eting of us Sri Lankans!
6 | ASL
The National Emblem
T
he national emblem of Sri Lanka is used by the Sri Lankan government in connection with the administration and government of the country. The current emblem has been in use since 1972.
The emblem features a gold lion passant, holding a sword in its right fore paw (the same lion from the flag of Sri Lanka) in the centre on a maroon background surrounded by golden petals of a Blue Lotus the national flower of the country. This is placed on top of a traditional grain vase that sprouts sheaves of rice grains that circle the border reflecting prosperity. The crest is the Dharmacakra, symbolising the country’s foremost place for Buddhism and just rule. Traditional Sinhalese heraldic symbols for the sun and the moon form the supporters.
The National Flag
The National Butterfly
T
he flag of Sri Lanka, also called the Lion Flag, consists of a gold lion, holding a kastane sword in its right fore paw, in front of a dark red background with four golden Bo leaves, one in each corner. Around the background is a yellow border, and to its left are two vertical stripes of equal size in green and saffron, with the saffron stripe closest to the lion. The lion represents the Sinhalese ethnicity and the bravery of the Sri Lankan nation while the four Bo leaves represent Metta, Karuna, Mudita and Upekkha. The orange stripe represents the Sri Lankan Tamils, the green stripe represents Sri Lankan Moors, and the maroon background represents the majority of Sinhalese, like the lion, this is the colour used in early flags of Sri Lanka by kings.
LOCATION: The island of Sri Lanka lies in the Indian Ocean, to the southwest of the Bay of Bengal. It is separated from the Indian subcontinent by the Gulf of Mannar and the Palk Strait.
ETHNIC GROUPS: Sinhalese 74.5%, Sri Lankan Tamils 11.9%, Indian Tamils 4.6%, Moors 7.2%, other 1.8%
T
he Sri Lankan Birdwing (Troides darsius) is a species of birdwing butterfly found in Sri Lanka. It is the largest Sri Lankan butterfly with a wingspan spreading 165–180 mm. The declaration of a national butterfly is aimed at raising public concern on butterfly conservation.
T
he Sri Lankan Junglefowl (Gallus lafayetii), known during the colonial era as the Ceylon Junglefowl, is a member of the Galliformes bird order which is endemic to Sri Lanka, where it is the national bird. It is closely related to the Red Junglefowl (G. gallus), the wild junglefowl from which the chicken was domesticated. The specific name of the Sri Lankan Junglefowl commemorates the French aristocrat Gilbert du Motier, marquis de La Fayette. In Sinhala it is known Wali Kukula.
C
eylon ironwood (Mesua ferrea) was declared the National Tree on 26 February 1986. It was chosen as the National Tree for the reasons of tree origin in Sri Lanka, utility, historic & cultural importance, exterior posture, wide distribution, colour & nature and ability to draw & sketch it easily. Ceylon ironwood is a species in the family Calophyllaceae. This slow-growing tree is named after the heaviness and hardness of its timber.
T
he Nil Manel (Nymphaea stellata) Blue Water Lily was chosen as the national flower of Sri Lanka in February 1986. The Blue Water Lily of exquisite beauty are a common sight throughout the island. Growing in shallow fresh waters with no season for blooming, the Blue Water Lily thrives wherever lakes, ponds or marsh land is found. This flower is considered a symbol of Purity and Truth due to the fact that it grows in muddy water yet emerges above it so clean and fragrant. The Blue Water Lily has been offered as tribute to the Buddha for many centuries and even the Sigiriya Fresco ladies are seen holding this remarkable blossom in their hands.
A traveller’s guide to
POPULATION: 21,128,773 (Estimated)
TIME ZONE: GMT+5 ½. Daylight saving times not observed.
It is widely cultivated as an ornamental due to its graceful shape, greyish-green foliage with a beautiful pink to red flush of drooping young leaves, and large, fragrant white flowers. Its flower is also used in herbal medicine and preparation of perfumes, cosmetics and soaps.
The National Flower
AREA: 65,525 sq km
LITERACY RATE: 92%
The Sri Lankan Junglefowl is most closely related to the Grey Junglefowl, though physically the male resembles the Red Junglefowl. Female Sri Lanka Junglefowl are very similar to those of the Grey Junglefowl.
The National Tree
OFFICIAL NAME: Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka
It was adopted in 1950 following the recommendations of a committee appointed by the 1st Prime Minister of Ceylon, The Rt Hon D.S. Senanayake.
Sri Lankan Birdwing is the great black and yellow butterfly (Ornithoptera darsius, Gray); the upper wings, which measure six inches across, are of deep velvet black, the lower, ornamented by large particles of satiny yellow, through which the sunlight passes, and few insects can compare with it in beauty, as it hovers over the flowers of the heliotrope, which furnish the favourite food of the perfect fly, although the caterpillar feeds on the aristolochia and the betel leaf and suspends its chrysalis from its drooping tendrils.
The National Bird
General Facts
CLIMATE: Sri Lanka has no marked seasons. There are two monsoons. The Northeast Monsoon occurs from December to March and the Southwest Monsoon from June to October. A tropical climate exists throughout the country. The hill country is cooler and more temperate. LANGUAGES: Sinhala, Tamil and English are widely spoken throughout Sri Lanka. COASTLINE: 1,340km CAPITAL: Sri Jayawardenapura Kotte COMMERCIAL CAPITAL: Colombo ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISIONS: Nine Provinces: Central, North Central, North, North Western, Sabaragamuwa, Southern, Uva, Western and Eastern Province. RELIGIONS: Predominantly Buddhism. Hinduism, Christianity and Islam are also practised. INDEPENDENCE DAY: February 4 GENERAL HOLIDAYS: Saturdays and Sundays are usually non–working days. The day of the full moon, Poya Day, is a religious holiday in the Buddhist calendar. It is a public, bank and mercantile holiday and most independent places are also closed. The selling of alcohol, even to tourists, is banned on a Poya Day.
MAJOR EXPORTS: Tea, textiles, gems, rubber and coconut products. HIGHEST PEAK: Pidurutalagala (Mount Pedro) at 2,524m NATIONAL BIRD: Jungle Fowl NATIONAL TREE: Ironwood: the Na Tree (Mesua nagassarium) NATIONAL FLOWER: Blue Water Lilly (Nymphaea stellata) VOLTAGE REQUIREMENTS: 230/240 volts AC, 50 Hz ( Round three pin plugs are common, with bayonet lamp fittings). INTERNATIONAL DIALLING: ++ 94 (followed by the area code, without 0, and the number). AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS: Rice, sugarcane, grains, pulses, oilseed, spices, tea, rubber and coconut.
CREDIT CARDS: Accepted in major establishments islandwide ATM: Available throughout the country where there are banks and commercial areas. MONEY: The exchange of foreign currency should only be done at reputable outlets such as banks or licensed money changers. A receipt should be obtained so re-exchange of rupees to foreign currency can be done at airport banks on departure . MEDICIAL FACILITIES: The medical standards are excellent. Qualified doctors and surgeons are available in government and private hospitals for emergencies. TIPPING: A service change of 10% is included in restaurant and hotel bills. A tip above this (say half of the service charge in cash to the server) is appreciated. There will also be an additional percentage (up to 17%) added to restaurant and hotel bills for government and provincial taxes. It’s not compulsory to tip drivers but customary.
INDUSTRIES: Processing of rubber, tea, coconut, tobacco, and other agricultural commodities; tourism, telecommunications, insurance, banking, garment manufacturing, textiles, cement, petroleum refining.
SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS: Shops and restaurants are open daily.
CURRENCY: Sri Lanka Rupee (Rs)
STAY UP-TO-DATE: For tourist information: Call 1912
PETTAH CENTRAL BUS STATION: 011 232 9604
KEEP IN MIND TRAVELLER’S CHEQUES: Widely accepted at banks and money exchangers. A 1% stamp duty plus a small commission is charged. 11 | ASL
Contents
Volume 07
BIRDS AT THE DOORSTEP
22
A DAY IN THE CITY
30
NUWARA ELIYA
42
DISCOVERING THE WESTERN PROVINCE
52
THE EAST AWAKES
62
CRAFTS OF SRI LANKA
71
AN INTRODUCTION TO AYURVEDA
80
THEY CALL IT LITTLE ENGLAND
22
62
30
42
71
Elégance Chic Mini
52
80
www.balmainwatches.com
Crescat Boulevard, 89 Galle Road, Colombo-3 | 243-8085 3-43 Majestic City, Colombo-4 | 255-5225 Colombo International Airpor t, Shop #100 Depar ture/Transit Area | 255-8115
Contents
Volume 07
SRI LANKA BY RAIL
90
RUN FOR FUN
98
TIPS FOR TRAVELLING IN SRI LANKA
104
CANAL CRUISE
110
90
98
104
110
AMAZING SRI LANKA - All rights reserved Š Amazing Sri Lanka 2014
Published by the Western Province Tourist Board.
No. 89, 5th Floor, Ranmagapaya, Kaduwela Road, Battaramulla, Sri Lanka. General: +94 (0) 11 7631705 | E-mail: sales@wptb.lk Advertising:
+94 (0) 11 3094440-1 | Web:
www.wptb.lk
The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the writers and not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. Volume I
Volume II
Volume III
Volume VII
General Operations & Administration: Claude Thomasz & I.G.I.T. Ratnayake
Sales & Marketing: Ralston Gerreyn, Krishanthini Devendran, Chamara Samarasinghe, Navodi Ranasinghe & Prasadi Sarojani Volume IV
Volume V
Volume VI
Distribution (Support Service): Sanjeewa Rodrigo
Layout & Designing: Thilina Maduranga, Nadun Egodage Photography & Improvements: Feather Pen Visual Studios Coordination: Chandika Dias, Thanuja Raigama & Palitha Abeysekara
17 | ASL
INSPIRING
ENCOUNTERS Thomasz
I
Chairman, (Western Province Tourist Board.)
was greatly honoured by The Hon Nimal Lanza, re-elected and re-appointed as the Minister of Tourism for the Western Province, to be re-appointed by him for the next five years as Chairman of the Western Province Tourist Board. I see this as recognition of what we at the Tourist Board are doing to encourage and improve the tourist experience.
THE HEART OF
The reason for this is not only to make sure that every tourist has inspiring encounters with Sri Lankans but also to improve the possibilities of economic benefits reaching everyone. We want to see that Sri Lankans themselves create as indelible an impression on our visitors as does our scenic and cultural diversity.
HOSPITALITY
During the next five years I will be taking a keen interest both in seeing In this connection, I was impressed to receive this unsolicited email from every visitor who stays in - or passes through - the Western Province has an English couple I have never met who toured Sri Lanka for three weeks an enjoyable time, and that our citizens also participate in -- and benefit in March 2014. from -- tourism. Sri Lanka and its people are a joy to encounter, we met so many lovely With ease of obtaining information about any place and any person folk and experienced such a blend of culture and humour the likes of through the Internet, tourists can visit here pre-prepared for the experi- which we could never have imagined. We came away thinking that other ence. However, Sri Lankans, although naturally hospitable, do not always societies may be wealthier in material terms but Sri Lankans are rich have advance knowledge on how to respond to visitors to Sri Lanka. beyond comparison in their humanity. One of the aims of the Western Province Tourist Board, as directed by It is comments like that which inspire us to make sure that all tourists feel the Hon Nimal Lanza, the Minister of Tourism, and in keeping with the welcome, and will be keen to return to holiday here again. policies of HE The President, Mahinda Rajapaksa, and the Minister of Economic Development, the Hon Basil Rajapaksa, is training all those associated with tourism.
A YEAR
ROUND DESTINATION Royston Ellis
T
(Editorial Consultant)
raditionally Sri Lanka has been regarded by tourists as a destination for holidaying from October to April when the weather is harsh in the northern hemisphere. With its sunny climate on the west coast during those months,Sri Lanka offers the chance for a welcome winter break.
In addition, the hill country is always ready to welcome visitors and offers breath-taking scenery, traditional cosy hotels and guesthouses, and fun throughout the year, but especially during the April and August upcountry seasons.
In this issue of Amazing Sri Lanka we look at the diverse attractions of Sri Lanka that make it a year-round destination. For a holiday, the country offers every kind of Travellers, those visitors (usually young backpackers) who accommodation too, from low-budget guest houses that you can discover yourself, hop on a plane to Colombo and then set off to tour the to sparkling beachside and city star class hotels that require advance booking to country independently, were never limited to visiting during secure a room, and boutique hotel properties tucked away in beautiful locations. the so-called “season.” During April to October they knew they could seek sun, sand and surf on Sri Lanka’s East Coast. There’s not only scenery, great accommodation and sensational food to be enjoyed in Sri Lanka, there is also the ancient culture of this isle of serendipity, and wonderful With the emergence of bright new hotels on the east coast, crafts to take home as souvenirs of your holiday in Sri Lanka. with staff eager to tend to guests and impress them, as well as the improvement of the attractions of the area, the east Sri Lanka is truly an amazing, year-round holiday destination; yours to enjoy at coast resorts near Trincomalee and Batticaloa have added a any time. year-round dimension to visiting Sri Lanka.
18 | ASL
Nimal A. Lanza Hon. Minister of
Transport, Sports, Youth Affairs, Women’s Affairs, Food Supplies and Distribution, Co-operative Dev., Household Economic Dev., Fisheries, Rural Dev., Tourism, Investment Promotion Coordination and Animal Production & Development
I
n the first weeks of my second term as the Minister of Tourism for the Western Province, I have been giving thought to the benefits tourism brings to Sri Lanka. Within the Western Province are places that are very popular with visitors, such as Negombo, with its charm and excitement, and the revived Garden City of Colombo with its sophistication and, of course, the west coast beaches of Mount Lavinia, Waduwa, Kalutara and Beruwela. Within the Western Province we also have magnificent rivers, waterfalls, forest reserves and bird sanctuaries, ancient caves and monuments, grand colonial architecture and simple homesteads, to say nothing of the fine local and international cuisine and comfortable accommodation expected by tourists.
With this in mind, the Western Province Tourist Board under the direction of its dynamic Chairman, Claude Thomasz, will extend its programmes of education and training for all industry service providers. This means those people at the front line of tourism: the taxi drivers, freelance guides, boatmen, vendors, and everyone who is an informal stakeholder in the tourist industry. We want the benefits of tourism to spread throughout the Western Province so that Sri Lankans, too, can enjoy the experience of welcoming, and being helpful and hospitable to, all visitors. By ensuring enlightened education to those on the periphery of tourism, we hope that the economic benefits of the tourist industry will penetrate beyond the mainstream, embracing everyone.
With nature’s bounty supported and even enhanced by modern It is my pleasure to welcome you, your family and your friends to development, the Western Province provides every visitor with a holiday in Sri Lanka, and I am sure you will discover more than just fulfilling experience. It is my Ministry’s aim, with the support of HE this country’s natural beauty, but also its warm and hospitable heart. The President, Mahinda Rajapaksa, and the Minister of Economic Development, the Hon Basil Rajapaksa, to make every tourist’s visit to Sri Lanka even more meaningful. We would like every Sri Lankan a visitor meets to be a goodwill ambassador for this country.
19 | ASL
20 | ASL
21 | ASL
BIRDS AT THE DOORSTEP
22 | ASL
23 | ASL
BIRDS AT THE DOORSTEP
White Bellied Drongo
Sri Lanka is a biodiversity hotspot with over 400 different bird species. Most of them inhabit wetlands or forests but a handful of bird varieties can be seen in cities and suburban areas – even in the highly populated Western Province, reports eco journalist, Malaka Rodrigo.
S
ri Lankans are famous for their hospitality and many keep food tables and set up bird baths for garden birds. Even without these special invitations, at least 20 varieties of common birds can be seen from the doorstep of a typical Sri Lankan home garden.
Bird with Pouch on its beak
Colombo is the busiest city in Sri Lanka, but even at the heart of this commercial capital birds thrive. The Spot-billed Pelican is the most remarkable. If you visit Gangarama Temple, you could definitely receive greetings from the spot-billed pelicans gracefully swimming like swans in nearby Beira Lake. While one or two pelicans can be always seen in Beira Lake, the number of this Pelican Brigade increases in the morning. Pelicans sometimes roost on top of lamp posts giving ample opportunity for people to observe them. The pelican is known for the pouch it has under its flattened beak. Categorised as Pelecanus philippensis scientifically, the Spot-billed Pelican is tagged as a ‘Near Threatened’ bird by the International Red List. But they thrive in this little island, especially in the country’s dry zone. The Pelican Colony in Colombo, which now numbers several hundred, is from the free-flying breeding colony at the Dehiwala Zoo.
Blue tailed Bee eater
have some large trees. This gorgeous bird feeds on a wide array of fruits and insects.
The smallest Sri Lankan bird
The Pelican is one of the biggest birds of the country, but even the smallest bird can be seen in Colombo. Actively feeding on small fruits constantly uttering its ‘tlik..tlik’ call, the Pale-billed Flower Pecker keeps himself busy. This bird has a large appetite for juicy berries with its favourite being the sticky berries of the parasite of the trees – the loranthus. The Flowerpecker also helps these loranthus to spread, giving them their Sinhala name ‘Pilalichcha’.
Alternate Hummingbirds
Sri Lanka doesn’t have hummingbirds; instead there are Sunbirds that visit the nectar- bearing flowers found in home gardens. Making their presence heard by a sharp call, they make anybody’s morning a pleasant one. In suburban areas, you can see the Purple-rumped Sunbird and Long-billed Sunbird flying as a pair from flower to flower. The male of the species is more vibrant than the female.
Seven Sisters
Yellow-billed Babblers visit Sri Lankan home gardens as a group. A babbler flock usually consists of seven birds on average, so they are also known as ‘seven sisters’. Babblers are busy birds that mark their presence by noisy chattering. They are always on the look out for food while on the ground. Young birds sometimes visit home gardens with the flock and can be seen being fed by parents.
Birds that nest in Houses
Birds usually prefer to keep their distance from humans, but knowing that Sri Lankans will share houses compassionately – Red-vented Bulbuls often build their nests inside houses. Lampshades are their favourite nest building platforms. Ornithologists think this is a behaviour they adopted to protect their nest from predators. The Red-vented Bulbul got its local name ‘Konda kurulla’ – due to the little crown it has on the head. This bird is the most wide-spread bird in the country.
The ‘Yellow Bird’
If you see a yellow bird with contrastingly black head; it is unmistakenly the Black-hooded Oriole’. Orioles are arboreal birds and they prefer to stay in the canopy of trees. The presence of Oriole testifies that Colombo and most of the other cities in Sri Lanka still
The Harbinger of the Traditional New Year
Sri Lankans consider the Asian Koel as harbinger of the traditional New Year in April. The Asian Koel is a beautiful songster and the male sings to attract its mate during the breeding season which usually starts in April. This coincides with the traditional New Year, so the Asian Koel has become a notable cultural symbol of Sri Lanka. The Asian koel has a big appetite and loves to have food from bird tables. The Asian Koel, however, has a bad habit of laying eggs in the nest of other birds.
Bird with fish tail
The White-bellied Drongo is the watcher of the avian world. In bird flocks, the species of drongo usually keep an eye on the sky and land for predators and issues a warning if they detect a threat. They are so agile with swift movements in the air. Their forked tail is the unique feature of the White-bellied Drongo.
The Parakeet with a necklace
If you look at the sky in the evening, you can see some flocks of green colour birds flying hurriedly towards their roosting sites and making a screeching call. They are Rose-ringed Parakeets and are loving couples to have in a Sri Lankan garden. The male Rose-ringed parakeet has a prominent ring on its neck, but the female lacks it. These parakeets are not shy and often come down to take a snack from the food tables. the between that/Rose-ringed Parakeet lays eggs in a hole usually located a dead palm tree or decaying branches. Ornithologists say that Rose-ringed Parakeet has adapted well to city conditions and their population seems to be increasing.
The dove that mourns
Even birds that frequent jungles can be seen in home gardens. The Spotted Dove is such a bird. The Spotted Dove’s soft cooing with a Krookruk-krukroo call is an unmistakable sound being echoed in most of Sri Lanka’s jungles. So it is special that these birds can be Purple rumped Sunbird
Yellow billed Babbler Long billed Sunbird Barn Swallows
Black hooded oriole
24 | ASL
25 | ASL
Red ven
ted Bul
bul
Brahminy Kite
Indian Pitta
ve
ed Do
Spott Orien
tal Ma
gpie R
obin
oel an K
ale)
(fem
Asi
akeets
Rose ringed Par
found even in ‘Concrete jungles’. The Spotted Dove is a lazy bird when it comes to building a nest, so they just assemble some twigs on a platform so sometimes the young ones fall to the ground. Kind Sri Lankan’s often extend a helping hand for the little ones to survive.
The singer in the Town
Of all the common birds, the Oriental Magpie Robin is the master composer. Every morning the male Magpie Robin flies to the highest point in the area and starts singing. The song is actually a beautiful one with several notes in it. The old saying goes ‘one for sorrow, two for joy’ about the sighting of this black and white bird. But luckily usually you can find two Magpie Robins; so that nobody would have to worry about a sorrow and can expect the joy.
Guards in the sky
The Brahminy Kite is the most common Raptor found in populated areas in Sri Lanka. A few of them can be spotted even from the heart of busy urban centres and they can be found in plenty around garbage dumps. The kite soars in the sky while carefully scanning the ground. The Brahminy kite gets its name because its chestnut colour plumage resembles meditating Brahmins.
Tourists without Visa
Sri Lanka is located at the southern tip of the Indian land mass, so the country gets lots of migrant birds, exceeding 200 in species. The migratory bird season usually starts at end of August and goes until April. However, the majority of migrant birds make their arrival during September and October.
26 | ASL
Six o’clock Bird
The Indian Pitta is one of the beautiful migrants that can be found in home gardens. The birds make their presence known by the unmistakable loud whistling call, rhyming similar to the words ‘quit clear’. They make this call in the morning and at dusk usually closer to six o’clock; hence it is also named as the ‘Six o’clock bird’.
Birds on the wire
Ratnapura is known not just for gem mining but also for the migratory Barn Swallows that roost in thousands on electric wires there. This has become spectacular to watch as the birds fight to find a good landing spot during rush hour. Barn Swallows eventually settle on the wires and have a peaceful ‘night stay’. Barn Swallows can also be seen around the country and electric wires have become their favourite places at night.
The Bee Killer
The Blue-tailed Bee-eater is another migratory bird that finds electric wires and antennas their favourite perching platforms. They are masters in catching insects on the wing and they don’t bother if their prey has venomous stings as they know how to catch them.
q
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
J F R De Fonseka Dilan Peeris Palmayrk House Pvt. Ltd. Feather Pen Visual Studios. 27 | ASL
28 | ASL
29 | ASL
A DAY IN THE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
T h i l i n a M a d u r a n g a.
30 | ASL
31 | ASL
A DAY IN THE CITY
C
olombo is rapidly regaining its reputation as the Garden City of Asia with the opening up of its parks and restoration of neglected buildings. Royston Ellis spends a day in the city.
M
For a railway fan, there’s a little-known railway museum a five-minute walk westwards along Olcott Mawatha (road), opposite the bus stands. Even though it appears to be closed, it is open (free admission) on weekdays from 10.00 to 16.00 so push open the wrought iron gate and stroll in. The building’s entrance is to one side and gives access to a hall of railway exhibits, like signals, old plaques and a Tyers Patent Train Apparatus over 100 years old. There is also a station platform called Colombo Terminus where some ancient steam locomotives are parked. Cross the main road, and you can plunge into the colourful chaos of the area known as Pettah. This is Colombo’s haunt of the streetwise spreading over several city blocks where everything you have ever wanted, and most things you will never need, can be found. Pettah was a select residential area during the Dutch and early British periods, but is now a jungle of streets jammed with bargain hunters from out of town, herds of trucks, cars and bullock carts, accompanied
Railway Museu m by the klaxons of three-wheelers and the shouts of porters pushing trolleys. Dusty evidence of Pettah’s past grandeur is can be seen in the Prince Street colonnaded 17th century Dutch townhouse that has somehow survived the pressure of market commerce. It was a private residence, an orphanage, a hospital, the headquarters of the Ceylon Volunteers, a police training school and a post office before being converted in 1980 into a museum devoted to the Dutch period (1658-1796). With a small courtyard lawn and creaking corridors, it offers respite from the clamour outside, as well as an insight into the past. It’s open daily, except Friday, 09.00-17.00; admission Rs500.
ost visitors to Sri Lanka skip the country’s commercial capital of Colombo and head straight for their beach resorts or touring the island. But to avoid Colombo is to miss the beating heart of Sri Lanka, as well as the fun of its spacious parks, tree-lined boulevards and, of course, shops. Colombo’s mid-20th century reputation as the Garden City of Asia was lost as investment dried up, colonial buildings fell into disuse and the city was locked up by security concerns. It’s taken time to re-establish itself as a pleasant place to holiday in, or at least to spend a day exploring all the city has to offer.
Pettah
If you’re not staying in Colombo then a convenient starting point for an independent tour would be from the Fort Railway Station or the bus station opposite, according to whether your arrive by train or bus. The road facing the station is named after Henry Steel Olcott (1832-1907), a US-born Buddhist crusader whose gold-painted statue stands in the station car park.
National Museu m
Vihara Mara Devi (formerly Victoria) Park 32 | ASL
33 | ASL
A DAY IN THE CITY
World Trade Centre
Continue westwards along Prince Street and northwards along one of the several Cross Streets to Main Street. Although it’s hidden behind an electricity transformer, there is a belfry there complete with a bell and crows nesting in it. This is all that remains of Kayman’s Gate, so named as crocodiles from the Beira Lake once scavenged there for food. Beyond it is the Old Town Hall Museum (open Saturday to Thursdays, 09.00-17.00, Rs500) featuring assorted bygones of city life. A three-wheeler taxi (tuk tuk) could be hailed there to drive eastwards along Main Street past a curious clock tower commemorating the life of one Framjee Bhikkajee erected in 1923 by his sons commemorating the 45th anniversary of his death. It marks the entrance to the old Fort of Colombo, although nothing remains – except some cannons on the waterfront – of the original fort. In front of the Grand Oriental Hotel there is a modern statue of the original three-wheeler taxis, a man-powered rickshaw. The GOH, as it is fondly known, was built at the port gates as an army barracks in 1837 and opened as a popular place for new arrivals to stay in 1875. From there a stroll southwards takes you past colonial buildings, like Cargills, the city’s oldest store established in 1844 and still open, with its puce stone walls and plaster horns of plenty.
34 | ASL
A contrast, at the end of the street, are the blocks of the Colombo Hilton and Galadari Hotels and the twin towers of Colombo’s own World Trade Centre, and also the Bank of Ceylon Headquarters. Opposite them is a new addition to Colombo’s attractions, the converted Dutch Hospital Shopping Complex. More a collection of modern restaurants than shops, it has an open space in the front with concrete benches and tables, and an inner courtyard, as well as a beer hall, a pub, an upmarket crab restaurant, a couple of cafés and a select restaurant run by SriLankan Airlines, Semondu, with superb food ranging from low-cost salads to top range steaks. It’s probably better to enjoy a stroll along the waterfront Galle Face Green at dusk rather than in the heat of high noon, as that’s when kite-flyers show their prowess, and hawkers of street snacks offer their fare. At the northern end is the formidable Presidential Secretariat building, formerly the parliament, while the Galle Face Hotel, Colombo’s most venerable, opened in 1864, at the southern end of the Green, retains its ambience of gracious days. Colombo has a lot more to see and it’s time to take another tuk tuk to visit the Ganagarayma Temple, the city’s Buddhist hub that also houses a collection of vintage motorcars. There’s an impressive statue of Buddha rising from the Beira Lake and a suspension bridge leading to an island park, much favoured by young couples. A notice declares it to be “Cable stayed Bridge and Bubble Shelter on Kaladuwa Beira Lake.” Swan-shaped paddleboats can be hired for a jaunt around the lake at Rs100 per person per half hour.
Town Hall
35 | ASL
A DAY IN THE CITY
Independence Memorial Hall Take a short drive southwards to Dharmapala Mawatha to pop into Paradise Road, a converted 19th century mansion that houses the city’s best collection of souvenirs and household accessories. It also has an enclosed balcony where you can sip coffee or juice while gazing down at the Colombo Plan obelisk monument, the brilliant white old Town Hall, modelled on Washington DC’s capitol building. Opposite is the Vihara Mara Devi (formerly Victoria) Park, a 53-aacre shaded green sward, with enclosing walls now removed. It survives from the time when this part of Colombo consisted of cinnamon gardens, after which the area is still known, and belongs to the prestigious residential district “Colombo 7.” Cross the park to visit a palatial building in its own grounds, the National Museum (open 09.00-17.00 daily except Friday, Rs500). Purpose-built in 1877, this has an extraordinary collection of the nation’s treasures reflecting the country’s cultural history.
Ganagarayma Temple Dutch Hospital Shopping Complex
The roads open into boulevards leading to the open-sided Independence Memorial Hall, built with concrete columns and high roof in ancient Greece forum style. A plaque states: “This hall was erected by the Government of Ceylon to commemorate the achievement of the independence of Ceylon on 4 February 1948.” This impressive structure is guarded by 60 crouching and seated concrete lions and, in its basement, has a museum featuring aspects of independence (Rs300). For a change of pace, take a bus (number 101; change at Dehiwela to 176 or 118) or tuk tuk to the National Zoological Gardens (open 08.00-18.00 daily; admission Rs2,000 for tourists; Rs100 for residents). To match the beautifying of the city, the zoo is undergoing a face-lift too, benefiting the animals as well as spectators. There are elephant rides on Saturdays (14.30-16.00), pony rides on Sundays (14.30-16.00); sea lion shows (daily 16.00-16.15) and elephant shows (daily 16.30-16.55).
W
herever you go in Colombo, keep your eyes open for amazing sights. There are plenty of statues to intrigue,
renovated old buildings like the Race Course stadium to discover, cricket grounds and sports fields, and lakeside paths to enjoy. While modern monumental hotels are under construction, the greenery is thriving, making Colombo a garden city again.
Galle Face Green
q
36 | ASL
37 | ASL
S. Thumilan
BLUE OCEAN GROUP OF COMPANIES IN SRI LANKA IS A PROVEN PLACE TO OWN YOUR STYLISH ARCHITECTURE EUROPEAN STANDARD APARTMENTS TO EMBRACE INFINITE JOY OF LUXURIOUS LIVING
T
he dynamic Blue Ocean Group of Companies has evolved
Group Chairman over the years into a versatile conglomerate functioning ACA, ACMA(UK), ACCA, in accordance with the Blue Ocean Concept that explains CGMA(UK), MCSI(UK), the way to achieve growth and profit harmoniously. With a CPA(AUS), FMAAT(SL), ACS diverse portfolio, the group takes bold strides as it strives to uphold
its reputation as a proven smarter place for investment to secure wealth, not only in Sri Lanka – but also in the Asia Pacific region for ethical, innovative and constructive practices in businesses. The sheer success of Blue Ocean Group of Companies is exclusively the result of its ability to provide a range of services for its clients under one roof strengthening its principles. Blue Ocean is able to tailor its services to fulfil recruitments of each and every client here and abroad. The brand Blue Ocean is synonymous with the phrase ‘The Smartest Investment to Secure Wealth’ because the investments made with Blue Ocean Group of Companies create a higher level of return for its investors.
We have in total 20 double rooms, out of which 17 A/C & 03 are non A/C.. All 17 rooms are overlooking the sea & ten rooms are with private balconies. Out of 17 rooms, 12 rooms could be converted in to triple rooms with adding extra bed.
S. Thumilan, who is the architect of Blue Ocean Group of Companies, is one of the most successful businessmen in Sri Lanka. He heads many successful diverse enterprises and also holds prestigious memberships of the Institute of Chartered Accountants of Sri Lanka (CA), Chartered Institute of Management Accountant (CIMA-UK), Association of Chartered Certified Accountant (ACCA-UK) and Chartered Certified Public Accountant of Australia (CPA-Aus). While serving as the Chairman for the Blue Ocean Group, he also serves as a consultant for several well-known leading establishments in Sri Lanka and overseas. Specialised in construction and development, the BOI Approved Blue Ocean Apartment is the flagship venture of the group. Covering all aspects of construction, that include construction, design, real estate, facilities management and consultation – its services encompass an umbrella solution to contractors and customers. The Blue Ocean believes that it has already reached the pinnacle of the construction field. Instead of constructing ultra-luxury high cost residential projects, the company produces a range of residential projects in and out of Colombo city which are low-cost, yet highly luxurious and affordable.
“ OUR SERVICE WITH A SMILE”
After the historical success of Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM 2013) in Sri Lanka held in last November, more and more investors in Asia, Europe and Western countries are looking for more resilient and sustainable real estate markets. They seek to invest in places where restriction for foreign investments is marginal and where they can gain high appreciation for properties within a short period of time. For them as well as for other investors, Sri Lanka is an ideal destination for investing in. In fact, Sri Lanka is now the fastest developing economy in Asia after China. The Blue Ocean Group with its already gained prestige reaches the limelight by helping to meet the increasing demand for apartments and commercial buildings during this historic period. In fact, owning luxury apartments of Blue Ocean Group is one of the most reliable ways to double the value of their investments. Customers can assure that they have the highest quality products dealing with high-profile skilled team of the group that is comprised of – Chartered Architects, Chartered Engineers, Chartered Accountants, Interior Designers and other industry professionals.
He continues: “Lower lending rates, low cost loans for property buyers, inflow of long-stay tourists including students, medical patients, industrial contractors and potential business initiators have greatly increased the demand for property, particularly with regards to apartments. We are passionate about creating wealth for our customers through property. With enhanced rental income as well as appreciation in property value for owners, the policies also help long-stay foreigners to find affordable rental apartments.” Blue Ocean Group of Companies also has step into their next milestone on building a 12-storey mega luxury residential condominium with three level car parks and multiple recreational facilities at No. 45, Alfered House Garden, Colombo 3. The location is next to the British Council, Colombo and the project is surrounded by – popular malls, shops, restaurants, hotels, theatres, parks, administrative buildings, public and private schools and major banks that only an Asia’s major city can provide for its citizens and tourists. For investors in Blue Ocean Apartments or those who wish to own them, the group provides enticing facilities. For example, they can interchange any property/s that they own to the value of Blue Ocean Apartments and they can also resell the Blue Ocean apartments they own in this way to the group itself if they wish to do so after a while. The group attributes its success to the solid strategic direction devised by qualified and experienced corporate planners and their transparent professionalism. “As our customer base expands daily, locally and globally, we at Blue Ocean Group have a strong vision to be the most respected, ethically sound and socially responsible company. I trust this vision will prevail through our achievements, whilst we will also continue to focus on acquisitions and mergers as well as strategic partnerships as a part of the overall strategic intent,” states Thumilan, in conclusion.
The Group’s latest acquisition, Link Engineering (Pvt) Limited, which has gained the highest national construction grading and great reputation locally and internationally, has already cemented the position of the Blue Ocean Group in the field of construction as its leader. Link Engineering is the creator of iconic constructions such as Kandalama Hotel, Rotunda Tower, New Court Complex in Chavakachcheri, “Munchee” Biscuit Factory in Seethawaka, Peradeniya University Science Faculty and Nawala Open University to name a few from a long list.
Beach Road, Pamunugama, Ja-Ela, Sri Lanka. Hot Line: +94 11-2236619, +94 11-3064156, +94 11-2051138/39 Fax: +94 11-2236629 | E-mail: villapalma@sltnet.lk Web: villapalmaresortsrilanka.com 38 | ASL
Within the backdrop of Link Engineering (Pvt) Limited, the company at present is to commence a similar undertaking in several other prominent locations. The Group Chairman Thumilan notes, “Apartment owners now experience higher appreciation of property values, the credit should go to the Government for implementing favourable policies towards the growth of the economy and in turn increased demand for property.”
T.P: +94 777 546 546 E-Mail: ceo@blueocean.lk
www.blueocean.lk 39 | ASL
40 | ASL
41 | ASL
NUWARA EL IYA
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Feather Pen Visual Studios.
A Y I L E A R A W U N THEY CALL IT LITTLE ENGLAND
42 | ASL
43 | ASL
NUWARA ELIYA – THEY CALL IT LITTLE ENGLAND
For Sri Lankans it’s fashionable to visit the hill country town of Nuwara Eliy a in April and August, but for tourists the town is a popular place to stay at any time of the year. Royston Ellis reports on this anachronism in the hills.
A
t 1889m (6,187ft) above sea level, Nuwara Eliya can be so cold that sweaters are the biggest selling item to surprised visitors, and yet the town lies within seven degrees of the Equator. It’s not just the climate, veering from fresh bright sunny days to frost laden chilly nights that has earned the town the sobriquet of Little England, it’s also the quaint cottages and manorial residences (now mostly converted into guesthouses) that gives it a mythical English character. Mythical? Yes, since there is probably nowhere in England that quite so perfectly captures one’s dream image of bucolic Englishness. The impression as one arrives after a long drive or train journey, is of a colonial theme park in the hills. There is a huge lake with swan-shaped paddle boats available for hire, ponies ambling freely or harnessed for rides, a race course - alas looking rather dilapidated – a golf course, mountain greenery, majestic trees, a pink bricked colonial post office, gothic churches, pubs, vegetable allotments, flower gardens, a kiddies park and, of course, tea plantations. The Englishness of Nuwara Eliya is combined with the colour of the tropics. Men are to be seen swaddled in sweaters and woolly caps, but wearing thin sarongs. Women wear woollen cardigans concealing the bright hues of their cotton saris. This contrasts with tourists, used to cooler climes, strolling through town clad only in shorts and T-shirts. Nuwara Eliya is for everyone.
observed: “Neuera-ellia was of course previously known by the natives. It had been the retreat of the Kandyan kings, who fled thither from the Portuguese about the year 1610, and from the circumstances of its having thus become an imperial residence, ‘nuwara,’ it obtained its present appellation Nuwara-Eliya, the ‘royal city of light.’ The transformation into “Little England” began under Ceylon’s British governor, Sir Edward Barnes (1820-22 and1824-31). He became enchanted with the place and built a bungalow there at his own expense , reputedly costing him £8,000, a colossal sum. He entertained lavishly and there is evidence to suggest he fathered a son there by a local woman.
This anachronism in the hills of Sri Lanka has its origins in a visit to the area by Dr John Davy nearly two hundred years ago. He described Nuwara Eliya as “beautiful... possessing a fine climate (certainly a cool climate)...quite deserted by man...the domain entirely of wild animals.”
Golf Course 44 | ASL
Davy’s guides called the place Neueraelliyapattan which shows it was known before the first Englishman arrived, and there were signs then of an ancient irrigation system. Forty years after Davy’s discovery, in 1859, Sir James Emerson Tennant, Sri Lanka’s Colonial Secretary,
Race Course
45 | ASL
Barnes’s enthusiasm did much to popularise Nuwara Eliya (which even today those emulating the English call ‘New-raileeya.’). Under his administration the place was made accessible by the network of roads he ordered to be constructed, and it rapidly became a sanatorium for enervated and convalescing English colonisers. Barnes Hall, as he called his residence, became the nucleus of today’s gracious Grand Hotel.
fireplaces and parlours since that was the ideal design for the changeable climate, and adding the necessary infrastructure. Golf, cricket, polo, hockey, croquet and lawn tennis were played and there was hunting too. According to a 1929 guidebook: “red deer, leopards and wild boar and birds of many varieties are plentiful.”
Another Englishman who contributed to Nuwara Eliya’s development was Samuel Baker (who later explored the Nile and became Governor of Sudan). After his first visit in 1847 when he was 26, he observed, “Why should not the highlands of Ceylon, with an Italian climate, be rescued from their state of barrenness?”
There were annual race meets, police sport meets, gymkhanas; horse, dog and flower shows; clay pigeon shooting; and a jolly social life with balls, and with gentlemen and their ladies calling on each other for afternoon tea. The social life, during the April race meets and the August season, still rages and the town welcomes everyone.
He returned seven years later to found a community of Englishmen and to put his ideas into practice, including cultivating English vegetables (grown to this day). As the highlands were opened up to tea cultivation, late 19th century planters paved the way for early 20th century colonists to create their own Little England in Nuwara Eliya.
Tourists could happily spend a week or more in Nuwara Eliya, given the attractions of the town and its surrounding area.Unfortunately for visitors on guided coach tours, their itinerary usually allows only a night or two. But Nuwara Eliya is a great town for the independent tourist. Nanu Oya, the nearest station, is easy to reach by train (with a 1st class carriage on twice-daily Chinese blue trains or the luxury private carriages attached to one train a day by the
They built holiday homes there in the manner of their English homesteads with
46 | ASL
Exporail and Rajadhani companies). There are so many guesthouses, there is somewhere to fit every budget, and advance reservations (except at the peak points of the season) are not usually necessary. Visitors to Nuwara Eliya can rely on the licenced freelance guides to suggest places to stay and see. The doyen of these guides goes by the name of “Eddie” (tel: 077 6326663) although his friends know him as Selvam. By the end of 2013, Eddie had visited Horton Plains with tourists a total of 713 times. Horton Plains was declared a National Park in 1988 because of its unique watershed and biodiversity values. It consists of 3,159ha of windswept wilderness and wildlife and gives access to the sheer drop known as World’s End. For the less adventurous, Hakgala Botanical Gardens is a drive of 10km along the road to Badulla. Begun in 1861 the gardens of 24ha at 1,884m above sea level feature fine herbaceous borders and annual flowering plants landscaped on different levels.Entry for foreigners is Rs1,100 while the discounted price, making it possible for locals to enjoy the gardens too, is just Rs50.
is besmirched by his ruthless shooting of elephants; he claimed to have shot and killed over 1,300. Nature had its revenge when lightning killed Major Rogers and his grave (which does show a crack) is also said to have been struck by lightning.
Nuwara Eliya itself reveals plenty to see. It is a compact town, entered from the north or south, with one main street with a bustling fruit, vegetable and meat market on one side, and local style eateries on the other. With streets bordering the golf course, the town revels in greenery, emphasised by the Victoria Park in its centre and the gorgeous displays of flowers in the gardens of hotels and guesthouses. Long closed because of the security situation, Sri Lanka’s highest mountain (at 2,524m above sea level), Piduruthalagala, is open to visitors and is at the summit of the Piduruthalagala Conservation Forest. It’s only a few minutes drive for a marvellous view
of the town from close to its peak. Visitors are prohibited from leaving their vehicles not just because the peak is also a military base, but also because, as one sign warns, there is danger from wild leopards. There is no charge to visit the mountain. The town’s pink post office is a landmark while beside it is a road to the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, established in 1889. Visitors who play golf may become temporary members. In its grounds are the remains of an old British cemetery, including the unkempt grave of Major Thomas William Rogers (died 1845). His reputation as an empire-builder
There are further reminders of colonial days in the formidable Holy Trinity Anglican Church, dating from 1852. A morning passes quickly just studying the inscriptions on the headstones there, including one of Lindsay Wright who settled in Nuwara Eliya in the 1860s and started a mail coach service. At one time he owned the St Andrew’s Hotel and was managing director of the Grand Hotel. Those two hotels, together with the Hill Club, represent the tradition of gracious accommodation in Nuwara Eliya. The Grand Hotel keeps pace with the times, however, and to complement its wood panelled bar and colonial billiard hall, has added a wine bar, a tea terrace and the Magnolia finedining coffee shop restaurant, an Indian restaurant at its gates and a Thai restaurant in its Golf Wing.
47 | ASL
Another major hotel has recently opened with 107 rooms and the clean lines of a modern hostelry close to the Grand. Called Araliya Green Hills, it has a fine dining restaurant and a wine bar and all the facilities the modern traveller demands. It’s possible to settle in Nuwara Eliya. The owner of the Glendower Hotel (which boasts a superb Chinese restaurant, the King Prawn) on the road leading to the Grand Hotel and the Hill Club, is creating a residential gated community, called Little England, just 10 minutes drive from the town centre. Each house is modelled on English designs and comes complete with heating, all furnishings, and 24-hour security. Visiting Nuwara Eliya is not so much a step back in time; it’s more a discovery that living in the tropics is not just sun, sea and sand. Nuwara Eliya represents the amazing diversity of Sri Lanka, not only in climate and scenery but also in lifestyle.
q
The Grand Hotel
The Glendower Hotel
St. Xaviour’s Church
Colonial Post Office
A modern supermarket in a historical building.
Victoria Park
48 | ASL
49 | ASL
50 | ASL
51 | ASL
DISCOVERING THE
WESTERN PROVINCE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Feather Pen Visual Studios. 52 | ASL
Visitors who arrive by air at the Bandaranaike International Airport set foot first in Sri Lanka’s Western Province. Our travel correspondent introduces readers to some of what’s best in the West. 53 | ASL
Sri Lankan Travel Line Your Ultimate Travel Partner
Goldi Sands Hotel offers a host of amenities, facilities and levels of comfort and maintains the meticulous standards required by the discerning guest. Accommodation at Goldi Sands Hotel comprises a stunning array of seventy air-conditioned double rooms.
Goldi Sands Hotel
At Goldi Sands Hotel, the combination of Sun, beach and the ever attentive staff is guaranteed to rejuvenate your body, mind and soul. Take a stroll down the sandy beach and enjoy the invigorating sea breeze or simply relax in rooms which benchmark elegance and luxury… truly an abode of serendipity…
Goldi Sands Hotel, Ethukala, Negombo, Sri Lanka. T: +94 31 22 79227 | F: +94 31 22 78019 | W: www.goldisands.com | E: goldi@eureka.lk 54 | ASL
Head Office: “Upula”, Bolgoda, Bandaragama, Sri Lanka. T: (+94) 11 3 152252, (+94) 71 6 461284, (+94) 77 1 828576 E: chamara@srilankantravelline.com, srilankantravelline@gmail.com W: www.srilankantravelline.com Kandy Office: #61, Hospital Road, Kotaligoda, Menikdiwela, Kandy. T: (+94) 11 3 152252 E: chamarakh@gmail.com 55 | ASL
WHAT IS THE WESTERN PROVINCE?
Kalutara Bhodiya
S
ri Lanka, with a population of approximately just over 21 million may seem small to people who come from huge established nations like Germany (63m) or the USA (317m) but the country’s population density of 329 people per square kilometre is high. And of all the provinces in Sri Lanka, the Western Province has the most inhabitants (over 5.8m). That’s not surprising since the country’s commercial capital (Colombo) and administrative capital (Sri Jayewardenepura) are situated in the province, as are Sri Lanka’s famous seaside resorts of Negombo, Mount Lavinia and Beruwela, and industrial free trade zones and factories.
should be split into provinces is a legacy of the British colonial administration when five provinces were first established in 1833: Central, Eastern, Northern, Southern and Western. During the next 50 years, the North Western, North Central, Uva and Sabaragamuwa Provinces were created, making a total of nine.
District. The population is overwhelmingly Buddhist (73.6%) and has a comparatively high number (12.93%) of Christians when compared with other provinces and a low number of Hindus (4.7%) while the Muslim population (at 8.61%) matches the national average.
By the mid 20th century the function of the provinces was mostly ceremonial. This changed in 1987 when, following several decades of increasing demand for decentralisation, the 13th Amendment to the 1978 Constitution of Sri Lanka established Provincial Councils with elected members.
Facts and figures aside, the Western Province is notable for the remarkable unity and diversity of its nature and culture. While Colombo boasts its luxurious hotels and thriving commerce, the entire province is rich in scenic splendours, rivers, ancient monuments and colonial buildings, flourishing factories and plantations and grand tourist attractions.
The Western Province extends over approximately 3,782 sq km (1,460 sq miles) of land and is divided into three administrative districts: towards the north is the Gampaha District, to the south is the Kalutara District while at the centre lies the all important Colombo
Taking each district in turn, the Colombo District has the Kelani River as its most influential natural feature, although the forests it nurtured in the past have been ousted by suburban sprawl. It’s a drive of about 35km from the city to find forests and caves in the Hanwela area. The
That such a comparatively small country (65,525 sq km or 25,299 sq miles)
Colombo Museum
56 | ASL
57 | ASL
Touring
Yakbendi Ella Godigomuwa Dewalaya
Maladeniya Atupandeniya Rajamaha Rajamaha Viharaya Viharaya
Erabadda Rajamaha Viharaya
Kahandawa Rajamaha Viharaya
Eththukkala Beach
Botale Walauwa
Negombo
Pattini Dewalaya
Angurukaramulla Temple
Negombo Fort
Talahena Beach
Gaspe Rajamaha Viharaya
Aluthapola Rajamaha Viharaya
Doowa
Katunayaka Dadagamuwa Rajamaha Viharaya
Kepungoda Beach
Asgiriya Rajamaha Viharaya
GAMPAHA Tudella Junction
Western Province Sri Lanka
Madabawita Rajamaha Viharaya
Kadjugama Antique Replica Centre
Mottunna Rajamaha Viharaya
Pasgama
Horagolla National Park
Rambutan Vendors
Weediyawatta Devalaya
Botanical Garden
Ganegoda Dewalaya
Lindara Rajamaha Viharaya Wewaldeniya Cane Craſt Kadjugama
Talagama Rajamaha Viharaya
Attanagalla
Varana Rajamaha Viharaya
Attanagalla Rajamaha Viharaya
Ja - Ela Kossinna Rajamaha Viharaya Amunugoda Rajamaha Viharaya Basilica Church
Kandana Ragama
Gampaha Pineapple
LEGEND
eastern sector of Colombo has a modified landscape of architecturally designed new buildings, including the magnificent parliamentary complex set on a river island. There is marshland and a bird sanctuary at Attidiya, 9km south of the city, and the splendid seashore at Mount Lavinia. Colombo’s numerous attractions range from colonial buildings and wide boulevards, parks and playing fields, to high rise apartment blocks, luxury hotels and shopping malls as well as the city’s lung, Galle Face Green. There are sumptuous villas behind the high walls of Colombo 7, and the chaos of shanties in the Pettah district.
Of course, Colombo is also the centre of communications, with its huge and expanding port, and is the nerve centre of the bus and rail networks that serve the country. The city seethes with commerce and activity during the day but falls strangely quiet at night as people return to their homes in the suburbs and the city becomes the preserve of the fun-seeking young looking for nightlife.
The most industrialised part of the Western Province is the Gampaha District. Free trade zones at Katunayake and Biyagama have added a new techno-cultural dimension to the traditional agrarian way of life of the people of the district. Within its area of 1,483 sq km, there is considerable biodiversity. The Attanagalu Oya is the major water In contrast, drive 20km east or southeast from the city to Pillikuttuva source, serving 727 sq m of land consisting of paddy fields, pineapple and Asmandalagala and there are caves that were occupied by Stone and rambutan gardens. Age man. A vibrant link with Colombo’s past are the annual peraheras, religious pageants, of the historical Kelaniya Buddhist Monastery and the renowned Gangarama Monastery in Colombo.
Kadawata
Hendala
Sapugaskanda Rajamaha Viharaya Kelani Ganga
COLOMBO
Asmadala
Nawagamuwa Dewalaya Koratota Rajamaha Viharaya
Kotte
Neelammahara Viharaya Birds Sanctury
Moratuwa
Maniyamgama Viharaya Brandi Mosque Wewakele Forest
Boralugoda Walauwa
Hanwella Church
Mambulgoda Viharaya
Kurugaka Kanda
Kurugaka Viharaya
Bolgoda Lake
Ellakanda
Bolgoda Ganga
Rankoth Viharaya
Panadura Beach
Scenic
Nachchimale Madakada Monastry
Kahapola Totupola Gammanpila Wewa
Panadura
Mahabellana Totupola
Talpitiya Beach
Beach
Kumari Ella
Church Of Lady Of Shorrow
Lenagala Rajamaha Viharaya
Maharagama
Dehiwala
Negombo
Avissawella
Kanduboda Meditation Centre
Pokunuwita Lenawara Rajamaha Rajamaha Viharaya Pathahawatta Viharaya Rajamaha Viharaya
Wadduwa Galpatha
Kalido Beach
KALUTHARA
Pahiyangala Uduwara Nartupana
Richmond Castle
Makeli Ella
Bodhiya
Mathugama
Maggona Bay
Ambegoda Falls
Beruwala Beach
Beruwala Beruwala Lighthouse Polkotuwa Beach Moragalla Beach
Horawala Totupola
Kalugala Monastry Paurukanda Yagirala Forest Reserve
Pahala Hewessa
Omantha Totupola Ihala Hewessa Scale - 1 : 200,000
58 | ASL
Designed by Feather Pen : 011 2 799 733
59 | ASL
FOR FIRST The Muturajawela sanctuary is a feature of the district, just 15km north of Colombo, with a lush mangrove forest that is home to 52 different bird species and 15 different fresh water fish species. The district boasts its own Botanical Gardens at Henarathgoda near the town of Gampaha. This was established in 1876 for the purpose of planting rubber seeds imported from England’s Kew Gardens. It now contains 400 different plant species. The focal point for tourists in the district is Negombo. Known as ‘Rome in Sri Lanka’ because of its Christian legacy; churches and sculptures of holy icons are visible throughout this seaside city. The highly religious way of life contrasts with the physical environment of the urban surroundings. The Negombo lagoon covers 3,124 hectares giving a spectacular backdrop to this lively and popular resort. South of Colombo lies the Kalutara District centred around the flourishing suburban town of Kalutara, formerly known as the Richmond of Ceylon because of its broad river, the Kalu Ganga, gracious lifestyle and sprawling villas. The district extends over 1,739 sq km, from the Bolgoda Lake down to the Bentota Ganga (river) at Aluthgama in the south. The district comprises two kinds of landscape. The western part is maritime while the other features flood plains and mountains. The most attractive natural settings in the area are symbolised by small waterfalls such as at Makeliya, 40kms south of Colombo. There are
huge rubber plantations, small tea gardens and, along the coast, gigantic groves of coconut palms, with attendant toddy tappers. Tourism is the district’s main income generating resource with hotel and guesthouses lining the coast from Wadduwa down to Aluthgama. The fishing harbour at Beruwela cannot rival that of Negombo for ceaseless activity but nevertheless the town has a long history from the days when it attracted Arab traders in the 9th century and was known as Barberyn.
q
TIME T OURIS T
S OR
REGU
The Western Province Tourist Board offers a unique service
L AR
VISI T
ORS
ISLAND WIDE PERSONALISED TOURS
Colombo City
& Transportation
AT AFFORDABLE RATES • WP. Tourist Board recommended drivers • Clean, well-maintained fully insured private vehicles • Expert, trained guides speaking your language • Boutique, luxury or budget accommodation • Itineraries especially planned to match individual and group packages
The Western Province Tourist Board has a database of more than 1,000 drivers and knowledgeable guides who are reliable and trustworthy, as well as happy and keen to explain and share Sri Lanka’s attractions with guests, and to see that visitors have a stress-free and enjoyable holiday here.
TO FEEL COMFORTABLY AT HOME IN SRI LANKA Contact: +94 11 309 444 1 wptb.tours@gmail.com
60 | ASL
SEE SRI LANKA AT ITS BEST WITH OUR PERSONALISED SERVICE DESIGNED ESPECIALLY FOR YOU. 61 | ASL
THE
EAST
AWAKES PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Passikudah beach
Thilina Maduranga & Nadun Egodage 62 | ASL
63 | ASL
THE EAST AWAKES
W April marked the beginning of the season for the East Coast resorts of Trincomalee and Passikudah as the seas and weather calm down. Our Travel Correspondent reports that a boom period is expected this year as tourists discover the delights of the East.
hile some of the East Coast was open to intrepid travellers even during the troubles, only now is it beginning to awaken as hotel developers eagerly make the most out of deserted beaches. For instance, in the past three years, the once deserted Passikudah beach has sprouted several hotels walling off the beach with its warm, shallow waters. Trincomalee with a population of just fewer than 100,000 is the best-known town on the Eastern seaboard. The island’s longest river, the Mahaweli Ganga, flows into the sea at Mathur in the south of Trincomalee’s great bay. The bay is said to be one of the world’s best natural harbours; a view expressed by Admiral Lord Nelson who recalled it as “the finest harbour in the world” having visited there in 1775 as a midshipman. It was the home base for the combined East Asian fleets of the Allied Powers during World War 2. It has 53km of shoreline and, surrounded as it is by hills on three sides and protected by islands in the bay, it seems like a landlocked inland lake. It is actually the fifth largest natural harbour in the world. However, even though some shipping of tea for export was done through the harbour in the past, it has never realised its full potential as a commercial port. Trincomalee is the capital of the Eastern Province, which has a coastline of 326km from its northern boundary by the Ma Oya at the Kokkilai Lagoon, down to Ruhunu and
Trincomalee Harbour
the Southern Province. The town is built on the neck of a peninsula less than a third of the way down the Eastern Province’s coastal boundary. Getting to Trincomalee by train currently involves travelling by night, which means you will miss the scenery but that’s not as dramatic as a trip by train to the hill country or along the coast. Train number 7083 leaves Colombo at 21.00 and arrives in Trinco
at 05.10 the next morning. On Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays, this train has an air-conditioned luxury carriage attached to it with advance reservation possible online (www.exporail.lk). It returns as train number 7084 leaving Trinco at 19.30 arriving at Colombo Fort station at 04.05, with the luxury carriage attached on Tuesdays, Fridays, Sundays. There are bus services linking Trincomalee with Colombo (No.49), Tangalle, Negombo, Kandy, Kurunegala and Anuradhapura.
Kokilai lagoon 64 | ASL
65 | ASL
Koneswaram temple
66 | ASL
Swarmi Rock Trincomalee
67 | ASL
Fish market
THE EAST AWAKES
hotels. There are also some low budget guesthouses beside the long sprawl of beach, ideal for backpackers and beachcombers. Do not expect the pristine beaches of the west coast; these are working beaches where fishermen pull up their boats, and cows and dogs lurk. For a complete contrast to the beach, drive north from Trincomalee on the road to Pulmudai through Nilaveli and hot, dusty plains cultivated with red onions and chillies. About 40km north of Trinco is Thiriyai, a small Tamil village that used to be a seaport for the Jaffna kingdom. Thiriyai is referred to as Thalakori in the 2nd-century map of Ptolemy. Pre-Christian Tamil Brahmin inscriptions have been found in the area, the oldest belonging to the 2nd century BC.
Fishing boats - Trincomalee Trincomalee town is easy to walk around and a fascinating place to get a hint of Eastern Seaboard life. The fish market, by fishing boats hauled up on the beach, is always buzzing and the town’s central fruit and vegetable market is a friendly and colourful place. There’s even more colour added by the soft drinks made of lurid orange, green, blue and yellow water sold by vendors at the bus station. A hot walk along the road beside the bus station leads to Fort Frederick. (Or hire a tuk tuk three-wheeler taxi for a town tour that will include a visit to the public hot water baths and a Hindu temple.) The date above the crumbling fort’s arch is 1676. Entrance is free for a walk to the summit of the hill for a view of the natural harbour.
Home made soft drinks
Near there are ruins of the first stupa ever built in Sri Lanka, possibly in the world, dating back to more than 500 years BC. Known as Girihadu Seya it was constructed by visiting merchants to enshrine a lock of the Buddha’s hair. There are about 300 steps to get to the spectacular ruins of the stupa atop a hill. The reward is a splendid view as well as the deeply spiritual moment of visiting such a historical, peaceful place that suffered considerably from the turmoil of the recent past. Passikudah, 137km from Trincomalee down the A15 coastal road to the south, is challenging Trincomalee’s position as
Girihadu seya the premier beach resort in the east. It can also be reached by the A11 from Habarana via Polonnaruwa. The long beach is accessible down one of the many roads leading eastwards from Valachchenai. This area has sprung to life in the past three years, having been recognised as a potential beach playground before a cyclone in 1978 blew the dreams away. What little of the tourist infrastructure remaining disappeared during 25 years of civil war. All the hotels at Passikudah are new and offer an invigoratingly fresh approach to accommodating tourists, reflected in the different architecture of each one. The exotic Maalu Maalu designed simply to look
like a fishing village was the first. The beach is mostly deserted except for a few fishermen and tourists who leave their hotel swimming pools to wade and wallow in the shallow waters that sweep the beach. Adjoining Passikudah is Kalkudah, a beach cove that is trying to catch up with its neighbour. The quality of the sand of much of the area is reflected in the Sinhala name for the town of Batticaloa, 30km to the south, which is Madekalapuwa, meaning muddy lagoon. Batticaloa provides what little off-beach action there is. The town, of some 93,000 inhabitants, has been spruced up recently
Behind the summit temple there is Swami Rock (121m high) and the ruin of a monument to the Dutch girl who is supposed to have flung herself into the sea from the cliff as her lover sailed away. Lots of sweetmeats, more coloured water and souvenirs are on sale to both local and foreign tourists who flock there. The beaches, the reason for going to Trincomalee for most tourists, are to the north of the town, at Uppuveli and Nilaveli where there are a few renovated 68 | ASL
Maalu Maalu Resort & Spa
69 | ASL
CRAFTS Sri Lanka Of
with a promenade with colourful concrete benches created along the bank of the lagoon, and a modern hotel, the East Lagoon, opening last year to supplement the local guesthouse accommodation of previous years. The town’s history goes back to the days of the Portuguese who built a fort there in 1628. In 1638 the Dutch arrived and took the fort but handed it over to the Sinhalese seven years later, when it was demolished. The Dutch returned in 1655, until surrendering Batticaloa to the British in 1772 and finally leaving when Britain arrived in Trincomalee in 1795 and secured the maritime provinces.
Batticaloa is shaking off its isolation of the past and becoming a lively town with people going about their business and plenty of tuk tuks for hire. Since it is only a 30 minute drive from the bright beach hotels of Passikudah it is easy to visit if you want a break from relaxing on the beach. Between Colombo and Batticaloa there are two trains a day. Train number 6011
leaves Colombo Fort at 06.05 and arrives at Batticaloa at 14.20; train number 6079 departs from Fort at 19.15 and arrives at Batticaloa the next day at 04.00. Return departures from Batticaloa are at 07.15 (Number 6012) and 20.15 (Number 6012) arriving at Colombo Fort at 15.25 and 04.55 respectively. Buses also link Batticaloa with Colombo (No.48-1), Badulla, Kandy, Monaragala and Vauniya.
q
The Dutch called Batticaloa “a vile stinking place” and in 1848, colonial secretary Tennant commented on the fort being surrounded by a ditch swarming with crocodiles. He was intrigued by Batticaloa’s renowned Singing Fish but decided the noise – “like the gentle thrills of a musical chord or the faint vibrations of a wine glass when its rim is rubbed by a wet finger” – came from “mollusca...not fish.”
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Feather Pen Visual Studios. 70 | ASL
Central Bus Stand & Railway Station - Batticaloa
71 | ASL
GEMS & JEWELLERY FROM A MASTER GOLDSMITH A gift to treasure that will last forever
G
emstones from Sri Lanka have cachet. King Solomon wooed Queen Sheba with gems from Sri Lanka. Almost three thousand years later, Prince Charles gave Lady Diana an engagement ring with a royal blue sapphire from Sri Lanka. This became the heirloom that Prince William presented to Catherine Middleton.
The National Gem & Jewellery Authority licenses gem dealers and exercises quality control so that tourists who purchase gems and jewellery from a licensed jeweller can be assured they are buying genuine gemstones. There are many top quality, licensed jewellers in Sri Lanka and among the best is Aida Gems & Jewellery.
Aida Gems & Jewellery was originally established in the west coast holiday resort of Bentota in 1975 under the personal direction of master goldsmith “Aida” (Nissanka Weerasena). Aida, as he is known affectionately by all his clients, started his jewellery workshop to cater for the growing tourist market. He specialised in jewel-
72 | ASL
lery created to customers’ own designs, with gems he himself selected as rough stones and cut and polished to perfection.
ble to the uninitiated. Only an expert like Aida knows the potential of every raw stone that will be revealed when it is cut and polished.
Although Aida now employs more than 100 people he takes a personal interest in every piece of jewellery hand-crafted in his workshop, and still fashions precious pieces of jewellery himself. His attention to detail is unmatched by most jewellery retailers and has earned him an enviable reputation.
Every gemstone and piece of jewellery purchased from Aida Gems & Jewellery carries Aida’s personal guarantee as well as a certificate of authenticity. Since Aida is involved from source to finished piece of cut and polished stone or jewellery, he offers unbelievably good value unrivalled anywhere.
His genius at hand-picking exquisite gems, and skill at crafting the right setting in gold or silver to complement them, soon won him customers from around the world. He expanded his simple workshop and now has branches in the resort districts of Galle, Waskaduwa and Marawila as well as his main showroom at Bentota.
Aida sources and selects only the best quality precious and semi-precious stones from Sri Lanka to offer customers. A gemstone in its raw state seems like a pretty piece of rock or peb-
The craftsmen at Aida Gems & Jewellery work to established patterns or to a client’s own designs to fashion pieces of exquisite perfection from gold or silver. When each piece is completed, Aida, or one of his experienced quality controllers, inspects it carefully to ensure it is the best possible quality and flawless in design.
Aida regards all the gems and jewellery in his showrooms as eventual heirlooms to be treasured by generations. He makes sure they are worthy of posterity -- as well as being a unique memento of Sri Lanka.
q
73 | ASL
THE CRAFTS OF SRI LANKA
A
s well as using traditional techniques, handicrafts in Sri Lanka utilise natural, indigenous raw materials. They are fashioned in the cottages of craftsmen in the countryside, and in rural craft centres. Whatever the material, handicrafts incorporate a legacy of centuries of skill. Originally, handicrafts were not created as souvenir items but for practicality. Reed baskets and strainers were used for gem mining, lace for dressing a bride, coconut shell and clay pottery for household implements, and garish carved masks for rituals, handloom woven fabrics for clothing. Traditional handcrafts, whatever material used, are distinguished by vivid colour combinations (mainly red, green, yellow and black) and bold design. Items are made of silver and brass; reed, rush, bamboo and rattan (cane); coir (coconut fibre); lacquer ware; batik, handloom fabrics and lace. Also there are drums and other musical instruments; pottery, woodcarvings; carved masks and papier-mache dolls and puppets. There is a government-sponsored chain of souvenir shops known as Laksala, which encourages village craftsmen to continue with the skills handed down for generations by providing a reliable market outlet for their work. There are also Sri Lankan entrepreneurs who encourage craftsmen to upgrade their skills and produce a range of products suitable for the sophisticated shopper.
Sri Lankan handicrafts are the product of age-old techniques and tools; they make delightful souvenirs, according to our Arts & Crafts Correspondent.
Brilliantly coloured hand-woven clothes, including sarongs and tunics designed by the store and made exclusively for it, are to be found at the Barefoot studio in Colombo. Innovations on traditional work, such as wooden doorstoppers decorated as village characters, and other novelties to cherish such as candles and carvings, have been inspired by the high quality demands of the Paradise Road emporiums. The influences in the style of handicrafts are numerous, blending artistic creative talent with the cultural history of the country. As an example, the popular batiks beloved by tourists as a blatant statement of a holiday in the tropics, follow a technique developed in Indonesia. This method of creating designs on fabric using wax and then treating the fabric to various stages of dyeing to produce veined patterns and images has been practised for thousands of years. In Sri Lanka the designs used to be quite basic but recently have become more refined and consequently are prized both as art works and apparel since each piece is unique, derived from its creator’s skill and patience. Batik factories, where visitors can observe the process, are still in existence in rural areas although the best places to buy are at specialist and souvenir shops. Gems, of course, are another traditional purchase for visitors and the cutting and polishing of gems is a craft in itself. This is complemented by the settings of silver and gold by master silver and goldsmiths who can create jewellery designs on demand, copies, or original pieces with a distinctive oriental cachet. Weaving is also an old tradition with one area, Dumbara, producing mats woven from strips of palm leaf. In other villages, women use handlooms and dyed cotton thread to weave bright, fashionable fabrics. They sell these
74 | ASL
75 | ASL
THE CRAFTS OF SRI LANKA
over the pillow on which the lace is being spun to produce intricate designs. Table clothes, doilies and ruffs made of lace in Sri Lanka are highly prized.
through Colombo and Galle Fort shops to trendsetters who want to flaunt souvenirs that radiate the colours of the tropics. Although genuine Sri Lankan lacquer ware is rarely found now, other colourful (and cheap) handmade objects are the applique style mats and bed covers produced by village women stitching together scraps of cast off fabric. These can be bought in hardware shops or from roadside venders and are ideal to brighten up a gloomy European room.
On the road to Kandy there are whole villages devoted to handicrafts. Shops line both sides of the road at Radawadunna selling basket ware and cane furniture. It’s amazing what cane (rattan) and bamboo can become in the hands of a craftsman. There are cane chairs and laundry baskets, and oddities like swizzle sticks and food covers. Stuffed pillows of patchwork and locally made brooms are also on sale there. On the Kandy Road at Molagoda platoons of clay pots mark the traditional area for clay pottery. Some 200 families in the district are engaged in pottery with clay that comes from the area. The craftsmen keep to traditional patterns as their pots and pans are still used in Sri Lankan kitchens for cooking rice and curry. The earthenware jars, classically curvaceous in their simplicity, are used for storage by rural folk or for interior design statements in boutique hotels.
Really scary pieces of handiwork are the masks carved out of a light wood called kadura and featuring different symbols, such as cobras and bulging eyes, and painted in lurid colours. These are deliberately created to be frightening as they are used in exorcism rituals and devil dances. A fascinating piece of art, typical of Sri Lanka, to hang at home. The best come from mask carvers in Ambalangoda (just over halfway from Colombo to Galle on the coastal road). Daintier craftwork comes from those who fashion household implements, containers, 76 | ASL
and ornaments from coconut shell. It is an axiom that every part of the coconut palm tree can be used. The husks yield coir, which can be turned by villagers into rope. Some craftsmen specialise in coconut husk sculpture, monkeys being a popular subject. The shell of the coconut, polished and varnished, is turned into useful items such as cups, spoons and even buttons. Other ancient crafts are embroidery and lace making. To observe the pillow lace makers sometimes found at work in south coast villages is to be amazed as their fingers fly 77 | ASL
The village of Embekke, near Kandy, is renowned for its production of brass ware, a link with religion as their work is traditional in temples throughout the island. Enterprising craftsfolk, men and women, in Sri Lanka are not slow to turn found objects into valued pieces. Some are expert in making tables, shelves and ornaments from deadwood found in the forests and from driftwood. Others are skilled in turning scraps from nature into artificial flowers, and a homemade candle-making industry flourishes too. It is hoped that the increasing numbers of tourists visiting Sri Lanka and buying local products will result in a revival of the fortunes of the country’s talented home-based craftsfolk.
q
CHINESE GIFT PALACE
For Sri Lankan and Chinese Arts & Crafts, Feng Shui symbols, Gift Items and More No. 78, Galle Road, Colombo 06, Sri Lanka. Tel: +94 11 2594931 E-mail: cgpalace@hotmail.com 78 | ASL
Ayurveda is Sri Lanka’s ancient health care system based on herbs and diet. Our Wellness Correspondent investigates.
AN INTRODUCTION TO
AYURVEDA
80 | ASL
81 | ASL
AN INTRODUCTION TO AYURVEDA
Ayurveda herbal bath
Under Licence In Sri Lanka there are simple village Ayurveda clinics where traditional practitioners provide treatment for free, utilising a knowledge of herbs and foods gained from their ancestors. There are also special hotels dedicated exclusively to Ayurveda treatment and diet and these are popular with foreign tourists seeking to resolve maladies or physical and mental stress. Approved Ayurveda establishments are licensed and regulated by the Government Department of Ayurveda. The main objectives of the Department are “the provision of curative services – indoor and outdoor - on the basis of indigenous methods of treatment, through a network of hospitals and dispensaries, and provision for the establishment and services necessary for treatment of diseases, preservation and promotion of health according to indigenous methods of treatment.” This is achieved “through the provision and standardisation of educational and professional levels in Ayurveda; and the encouragement of research in Ayurveda and with the provision of ancillary services to facilitate treatment, study and research in Ayurveda.”
F
or tourists familiar with Western medicine, Ayurveda seems mysterious. Is it effective or is it some fad that the wealthy and/or deluded turn to when they need solace?
Since time immemorial, man has been engaged in the pursuit of achieving and maintaining an optimum state of health. This resulted in Ayurveda emerging in South Asia as a natural way of healing. Ayurveda means “the science of life” and is a system of healing perfected over more than five thousand years. It has evolved into an efficacious system of healing using natural extracts and skills, treating the whole person rather than just the physical symptoms of a disease. The emphasis is on the harmony of mind, spirit and body to cure diseases with the concept being that prevention is preferable to cure. Its value is recognised beyond the shores of Sri Lanka. Ayurveda seeks to establish a balance of three elemental substances known as Dosha. The dosha are known as Vata, Pitta and Kapha. The theory is that each human possesses a unique combination of these doshas and these define a person’s temperament and characteristics. Each person has a natural state, or natural combination of these three elements, and should seek balance by modulating their behaviour or environment. Another view, present in the ancient literature, states that dosha equality is identical to health, and that persons with an imbalance of dosha are proportionately unhealthy, and that this is not their natural state.
82 | ASL
The Ayurveda Department is responsible for the establishment and maintenance of hospitals and other institutions;conducting seminars, training classes and courses of study; registration of practitioners and conducting clinical, pharmacological and literary research; propagation of herb cultivation and assisting projects to facilitate Ayurveda research.
Essential herbs There’s an idea in Ayurveda that, “What heals, also prevents.” Herbs effective in treating specific conditions can also serve as a “food,” providing targeted nourishment to specific physiological systems and processes. For example, Turmeric, popularised for its anti-inflammatory properties, can also be eaten as a culinary spice by people looking to proactively prevent disease and maintain good health.
Natural herbs are used for many reasons: to maintain overall health; to boost immunity; support mental clarity and focus; to calm the nerves; to improve digestion; to protect the body from toxins and support the detoxification process; and to support the innate healing processes. The following six herbs have long histories of traditional use in Ayurveda. ASHWAGANDHA (Withania somnifera): Best known for its ability to promote energy and stamina without stimulating the heart. As a body-balancing herb, it also addresses insomnia. BITTER MELON (Momordica charantia): Preliminary evidence suggests bittermelon’s hypoglycemic action can be explained through several independent mechanisms. Bitter Melon increases insulin output from the pancreas and may have a role in reducing cardiovascular risk, particularly in people with diabetes or metabolic syndrome.
Ashwagandha
HOLY BASIL (Ocimum sanctum): This plant is considered sacred by many and can be found growing in temple gardens, where the rich fragrance opens respiratory passages and, some say, helps the spirit to soar. Holy Basil’s key compounds, including eugenol and caryophyllene, are similar to those found in oregano (Origanum vulgare) and it shares the anti-inflammatory, antipyretic, and analgesic actions typical of the oregano family.
Bitter Melon
In classical Ayurveda, Holy Basil was used as an anti-tussive, to clear “excess dampness in the lungs” and it can increase lung capacity as well as reduce laboured breathing. It has also been shown to significantly reduce several measures of stress in generalised anxiety disorder patients. TURMERIC (Curcuma longa): This provides many diverse benefits for human health, including preservation of brain function, high antioxidant activity, regulation of inflammation in conditions like rheumatoid arthritis, and cancer prevention. Turmeric can provide an anti-inflammatory effect without the gastric complications sometimes seen with other anti-inflammatory agents, such as aspirin.
Turmeric
83 | ASL
AN INTRODUCTION TO AYURVEDA
TRIPHALA is not one plant, but three. The Sanskrit word actually means “three fruits,” (tri = three, phala = fruit). Use of Triphala is based on a key tenet of Ayurveda theory, that disease is most able to take hold when digestion is compromised. Triphala is used for bloating, sluggish digestion, food sensitivities, fatigue after meals, or chronic constipation.
and clears the complexion of the face and also helps patient to sleep, being good for stress and mental diseases. For an Ayurveda facial massage, herbal pastes and steams are used to cleanse and smooth out wrinkles and clear the skin.
Triphala Ayurveda arm massage
TRIKATU: A complementary formula to Triphala, Trikatu means “three peppers” or “three pungents.” It is a combination of Black Pepper (Piper nigrum), Indian Long Pepper (Piper longum) and Ginger (Zingiber officinale). Trikatu enhances the “digestive fire” necessary for the breakdown of food and absorption of nutrients. Trikatu also seems to promote the assimilation of food through the intestines and normalises gastric emptying, thereby reducing the tendency toward flatulence and distention while improving overall energy levels and nutritional status.
Piper longum Ayurveda leg massage
An Ayurveda nasal treatment is also performed in Sri Lanka with medicated oils, herbal juices, powders, etc., administered through the nose tract. This treatment is very effective for chronic sinusitis, chronic headache, migraine, facial paralysis, nasal congestion, cataract and diseases of eye, nose, ear, mouth and head. The Ayurveda arm massage treats headaches, neck pain, and aching shoulders or tired hands, all of which could be caused by tension in the arms. Massaging helps the arms and shoulders to relax, and can alleviate many of these problems.
Hands On Treatment There are several popular treatments under a Ayurveda regime of good health. Important is the Ayurveda Body Massage. This is the application of oil on the body with the help of palms. The abhyanga (massage) is used for relaxation, as well as giving tone to the muscles and promoting blood circulation. The regular application of oil gives longevity, strengthens the muscles and relieves fatigue. It also treats diseases of the nervous system. The selection of the type of oil depends on the diagnosis of the physician and the duration of the treatment is usually 30 to 40 minutes.
For an Ayurveda herbal bath herbal leaves and roots are boiled and the water is poured on the patient. Different types of herbal water are created according to a patient’s ailments and condition. For an Ayurveda herbal steam bath herbal leaves and roots are boiled and the steam passed over the patient’s body for a prescribed period of time. This helps with obesity and joint pains.
Ayurveda leg massage stimulates the circulation as the herbal massage brings blood and nutrients to the legs and helps to prevent varicose veins. Gentle stroking up the legs towards the lymph nodes can help to reduce puffiness or swelling in the lower legs. The leg massage also helps to reduce the accumulation of cellulite, dry skin and flabby thighs. For an Ayurveda neck and shoulder massage special herbal oil is applied to the neck and the shoulder to release muscular spasms, rheumatic pain and stress-related conditions when the neck and the shoulder area is stiff and tense. During an Ayurveda foot massage, special attention is focused on the tender spots. This massage produces a reflect effect on the internal organs, as well as creating a combined soothing and invigorating feeling. Massage of the feet prevents and cures dryness, numbness, roughness, fatigue, cracking of the heels, and strengthens one’s walking and running ability. Any Ayurveda treatment will begin with a medical examination to determine which therapy would be most effective for an individual. Registered Ayurveda hotels and clinics throughout Sri Lanka welcome foreigners who seek to benefit from this ancient tradition of natural wellness.
q
Holy Basil
Ayurveda neck and shoulder massage
The Ayurveda head oil application involves the application of oil and massage with the help of hands. Different types of oils are used according to the patient’s condition and ailments, if any. It improves the blood circulation and prevents and cures headache and migraine. It also prevents and cures hair loss, baldness and premature greying of hair and helps with hair growth. It promotes improved eyesight
84 | ASL
85 | ASL
Acupuncture
Perfect for Natural Beauty
Photographs Dayan Witharana & Sarath Hettige
A
cupuncture is an ancient method of treatment numbering to more than 3000 years and this was started in China. Most of the western countries use Acupuncture due to the success of this which is recognized by the World Health Organization. To get more details about this we met Doctor Prasad Deshapriya the well known Acupuncture practitioner Director of Kalubowila Acupuncture Clinic. Q: How is obesity treated through acupuncture? A: Acupuncture is answer to a perfect figure. Obesity causes individuals to mentally and physically suffer, it also lowers your level of self-esteem and prevents you from achieving your goals in life. Obesity causes a protruding stomach, causes your arms, thighs and face muscles to sag and increases your bust size. Most people think they only become fat the older they get but it is a myth. You may have seen even those who are young also become fat. The cause of the fat maybe unnecessary medicine, food containing Oil, chocolate, pudding, toffees and sweets. And also lack of exercise also may be the reason for fat. Diabetic and Asthma sometime maybe the result of fat. This could be reduced if you eat fresh fruit and vegetable and also drink water regularly. Obesity can be treated through acupuncture by stimulating certain pressure points com-
bined with electric stimulations. Acupuncture treatments for obesity include acupoints to be stimulated. Acupuncture Aricular Obesity Point and Local Point. Obesity also causes your skin to stretch leaving marks. This can be treated through a method referred to as colour therapy which is used in acupuncture treatments Q: Can you increase your height through acupuncture? A: Yes, this can be done for men as well as women,. Increasing one’s height through acupuncture can be done without any side effects, where your height can be increased up to 2 or 3 inches. This can be done by successfully combining acupuncture with a special treatment developed for this purpose. Q: How is Hair loss Treated? A: Hair is one of the most important parts of our Life unnecessary treatment for Hair gel and tint may cause for hair loss. Acupuncture treatments for hair loss include acupoints to be stimulated. Q: What other diseases can be treated through acupuncture? A: Acupuncture is an effective method of treating a variety of diseases and medical complications such a skin and medical disorders, asthma, hair loss, pre-mature graying, arthritis, sexual disorders, Kidney problems, diabetes, headaches, pimples, back pain, gastritis, height problems, spider veins, drum addiction etc.
Dr. Prasad Deshapriya - Director Kalubowila Acupunture Clinic, De Silva Road, Kalubovila. M: +94 (0) 714 299 777 E: vpdeshapriya@gmail.com W: www.kalubovilaacupunture.com
A HOME IN THE
HILLS H aputale, the hill country town popular with adventurous visitors because of its superb location and activity as a tea growing centre, is moving up in the world. This is because tourist-class accommodation is now available at Olympus Plaza Hotel, built into the hillside at 4,900 feet above sea level but only a few minutes stroll or tuk tuk ride from the town’s railway and bus stations.
morning sun bathes the balconies and the entrance courtyard tea terrace, especially welcome after the temperature drop at night.
This new property has added a second wing, giving it a total of 42 deluxe and superior rooms. The Southern Wing yields spectacular views of the central and surrounding plains and, on a clear day, views of the south coast and the new Mattala Rajapaksa International Airport. The Northern Wing overlooks the spectacular view of the Sleeping Warrior mountain range and Fox Hill. The original wing has six floors, with reception on the fifth floor and four floors of rooms built into the hillside below. Light floods in through walls of windows that have chrome rails in front of them to stop guests stepping out into the view. The early
88 | ASL
The new wing has 12 comfortably-furnished rooms and small suites. At the top is a colourful kiddies’ playroom, a small gym, and two novelties: a gaming room for computer addicts, and a 24-seat private cinema, the Delphi Theatre, with shows three times a day for a minimum of five guests. Haputale’s first and only pastry and bakery shop (Glace) is part of the hotel with a patio access from the street and serves delectable cakes with tea or coffee. The hotel’s restaurant is also open to non-residents as well as hotel guests and offers a la carte menus and weekend buffets. The cheerful Dionysus Bar on the top floor is popular for
www.olympusplazahotel.com
cocktails and has a pool table. For private functions seating 200 guests, the Grand Olympia Banquet Hall is elegantly furnished and perfect for weddings, seminars and conventions. The Olympus Plaza has its own tours and travels department and has a leaflet detailing tours that can be easily arranged to nearby attractions including Adisham Manor, the Tangamalai Wildlife Sanctuary, Lipton’s Seat look out, the famous Dambetenna Tea Factory, Diyaluma and Bambarakanda Falls and Horton Plains. Olympus Plaza Hotel is a destination in itself, perfect for a holiday of a week or more, catering for visitors in a bright and courteous manner that matches its impressive setting.
88 | ASL
89 | ASL
In 2014, Sri Lanka Railways celebrates the 150th anniversary of the country’s first scheduled train journey. Royston Ellis traces the development of the railways and recommends some top train trips for tourists.
SRI LANKA
BY
RAIL
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
Feather Pen Visual Studios.
90 | ASL
91 | ASL
SRI LANKA BY RAIL
S
eeing Sri Lanka by train is an easy and economical way to discover the diversity of this multi-faceted country. Travelling by train takes tourists through places roads bypass. The seascapes are dreamy and the lushness of the climb through the hill country astounding. From a train window, a visitor can glimpse the rural heart of Sri Lanka, and see the country’s soul reflected in the smiles of people met on the journey. The convenience and comfort of travelling by train for tourists has developed a lot during the past few years. The lumbering steam engines and leaky diesel locomotives, creaky carriages and old sleeping compartments have gone, as have the bar and restaurant cars of colonial trains. However, in their place are sleek Diesel Multiple Units (DMUs) and privately operated luxury air-conditioned carriages attached to major trains. Sri Lankans love to travel by rail and many trains have standing room only, especially the commuter trains into Colombo in the morning and out again to the suburbs and coastal towns in the evening. They are the trains to avoid. However, with careful planning, tourists can discover the best of Sri Lanka by rail. On a sunny day in October 1864, the first train to make a scheduled journey in Sri Lanka steamed into Ambepussa station, 54km from Colombo. Three years later, in 1867, the railway line to Kandy officially opened. The idea of building a railway in what was then Ceylon and under a British governor, was first mooted in 1845. Then a bullock cart took 12 days to make the 116km trip from Colombo to Kandy. Coffee planters wanted a railway to transport their crop but it was not until 1856 that an ordinance was passed for the construction of a railway line between Colombo and Kandy. A Briton, W F Faviell, who had previously helped construct railways in India, was contracted in 1863 to begin building the line. It was a difficult job and the 3,000 men constructing it were hampered by malaria and cholera, monsoon rains, floods and landslides as well as rocky, hilly and steep terrain. The arrival of the first steam engine in Kandy in 1867 happened in the same year that the
92 | ASL
first commercial tea planting was undertaken near Kandy by James Taylor. The coming of trains and tea to Kandy together was to herald new prosperity as trains provided a means of getting tea to the docks for shipping to England for sale, and tea (when coffee failed) provided the freight that made the train service viable. An eye witness of the first train’s arrival in Kandy recorded: “When the locomotive appeared, there was a tremendous excitement and the mob...cheered most lustily and vociferously, trying with might and main to drown the shrill scream of the iron horse whose wild and unearthly snortings were echoed and re-echoed in the surrounding hills.” Today, on a trip to Kandy, tourists can still see the original station that was built in Peradeniya in 1867. A steam train came to be known as yakada yaka. The words mean “iron devil” in Sinhala but they are also onomatopoeic, capturing the sound made by an engine as it gathered speed and rattled along the rails: yakada yaka...yakada yaka. Although concrete sleepers have replaced the wooden ones and track beds are firmer and filled with quarried metal stone chippings, a running train still has sounds and sights of its own. The train trip that’s most convenient for visitors is from Colombo Fort (the main railway station in Colombo) to Kandy. It allows travel there and back in a day. An Intercity Express leaves Colombo every morning at 07.00hrs and arrives at Kandy at 09.35; it
leaves Kandy at 15.00, reaching Colombo at 17.36. For those tourists based in Kandy who want a day trip to Colombo, the journey can be made on the Intercity leaving Kandy at 06.15, arriving Colombo at 08.52; returning at 15.35 and reaching Kandy at 18.06. The Intercity Express is convenient both in schedule and comfort. It has seats in 1st Class observation carriage and in 2nd Class that can be booked by dialling 365 on a Mobitel telephone, or by booking from 14 days before the journey at the ticket reservation offices at Colombo or Kandy stations.
Haputale railway station Old railway infrastructure remains in working condition
Two luxury carriages have been added to the Intercity Expresses mentioned above and tickets can be purchased on line for the print out to be validated at the station or at a train ticket agency before departure. Expo Rail (www.exporail.lk) operate the AC carriage attached daily to the morning departure from Colombo and the afternoon departure from Kandy. For the morning departure from Kandy and the afternoon service from Colombo, the luxury A carriage is provided by Rajadhani Express (www.rajadhani.lk). Both carriages have comfortable seating (passengers can choose their seats from a plan at the time of booking on line) and sparklingly clean toilets (a welcome contrast to the facilities on standard carriages). Food, tea, coffee and soft drinks are also available from the travelling carriage stewards.
93 | ASL
For access to the Cultural Triangle and the incredible ruins that remain of former civilisations at Anuradhapura, the 15.55 departure from Colombo, arriving at Anuradhapura at 19.46 has an Expo Rail private compartment. It returns daily from Anuradhapura at 06.40, arriving Colombo at 10.25. With the re-laying of the railway track and re-building of stations, the northern line from Anuradhapura has been extended beyond Vavuniya to Omanthai and Kilinochchi and will reach up to Jaffna again in 2014. At present, the 05.45 Intercity departure from Colombo to Kilinochchi (arrival at 12.35) has 1st & 2nd Class accommodation. It makes the return trip at 06.00 from Kilinochchi to reach Colombo at 13.00. To head down south to the beaches and old colonial fort of Galle, there is a Rajadhani private compartment attached every day, except Thursdays, to the 06.55 departure from Colombo. This arrives at Bentota at 08.46, at Galle at 09.41; leaving Galle at 15.20 and Bentota at 16.31, returning to Colombo at 18.10. This gives ample time for a day on the beach at Bentota or for exploring Galle Fort and having lunch on the ramparts. A train trip to the east takes time and reveals seemingly endless plains. The east coast has vast, unspoiled beaches with Passikudah near Batticaloa having the advantage of a low rise and fall of tide making the beach popular year round. There are two trains a day from Colombo (06.05 & 19.15) for Batticaloa (arriving at 14.20 & 04.00). These leave Batticaloa at 07.15 & 20.15, arriving Colombo at 15.25 & 04.55. Both trains have bookable seats in 1st Class (either Observation Car or Berths) and in 2nd Class.
has the attractions of its beaches at Uppuveli and Nilaveli, a boat trip to Pigeon Island and the magnificent ruins of Fort Frederick. While travelling to Nuwara Eliya in the hill country by train via its nearest station, Nanu Oya, is popular with travellers, real rail buffs rate the train journey from Nanu Oya to Ella as the most scenic and exciting in Sri Lanka. On its two-and-a-half hour journey between those hill country stations, the train reaches the highest station in the island, Pattipola, at 1,891m above sea level, before descending through hills, vegetable patches and tea gardens to Ella and on to Badulla. Both Expo Rail and Rajadhani operate private carriages attached to the 08.15 departure to Badulla from Colombo, arriving at Nanu Oya at 14.33; Ella at 17.04 and Badulla at 17.55. The train leaves for the return trip at 10.00 arriving in Colombo at 20.25. In addition the sleek blue Chinese-made DMUs with AC 1st Class, as well as 2nd and 3rd Class, operate daily services from Colombo at 05.55 & 09.45 arriving at Badulla at 16.06 & 19.23. The return trips by the DMUs start at 05.45 & 08.30, arriving at Colombo Fort at 15.27 & 18.27. As a wonderful way of commemorating 150 years of railways in Sri Lanka, a few day spent travelling by train is a fitting experience. Thanks to the improvements in rolling stock and schedules, travelling independently throughout the country by train is not only possible and practical, it is also fun. Full information on train times can be found at: www.gic.gov.lk.
q
For Trincomalee, there is an Expo Rail private carriage attached to the 21.00 departure from Colombo Fort, arriving at Trinco at 05.10, and returning at 19.30 to reach Colombo at 04.05. This train also has 1st Class berths and 2nd & 3rd class. Trincomalee
94 | ASL
95 | ASL
A map of the
Railway lines in Sri Lanka
96 | ASL
RUN FOR FUN
These photographs are of last year’s marathon, organised by Lanka Sportsreizen (LSR) with SriLankan Airlines as the official carrier.
O B M CO LO
N O H T A R MA 3 1 0 2
Chairman SriLankan Airlines
Claude Thomasz
(Chairman Western Province Tourist Board) at the 2013 marathon
T
he LSR Colombo Marathon has become a popular event for athletes and enthusiasts of running for fun from around the world. Run over a distance of 42.196km (or 21.097km for the half-marathon), this year’s marathon is scheduled to take place on Sunday 5 October 2014. Over 3,000 runners are expected to take part. Details are available on www.srilankamarathon.org or by email from colombomarathon@lsr-srilanka.com.
98 | ASL
Hon. Ministe SriLankan Airr liNimal A.Lanza with at the 2013 mar nes Chairman athon
99 | ASL
101 | ASL
COLOMBO COURTYARD
SOUTH ASIA'S
FIRST CARBON NEUTRAL CITY HOTEL organisation that strives to reduce the environmental impact of the corporate Stylish and eco-friendly, Colombo Courtyard is an sector of Sri Lanka through a range of services that promote sustainable urban boutique hotel designed to provide guests with practices. luxurious accommodation, dining and spa facilities with responsibility. The hotel has now striven further in this The CCC carried out a GHG assessment to measure the emissions the effort, by taking steps to neutralise its carbon footprint, hotel made, directly and indirectly, through its various activities in the last making it the first CarbonNeutral® boutique city hotel year. This GHG assessment was carried out in accordance with the GHG Protocol, developed by the World Business Council for Sustainable in Asia. Development (WBCSD) and the World Resources Institute (WRI) and the Various causes, both natural and manmade, contribute Carbon Disclosure Project. to the growing warmth of our planet; but its alarming increase over the last century is undoubtedly a result Colombo Courtyard is a hotel that already focuses on being environmentalof the greenhouse effect. This is the process by which ly-friendly, by taking energy-saving initiatives and using recycled materials. absorption and emission of infra red radiation by gases The assessment quantified the hotel’s carbon footprint under three scopes. in a planet’s atmosphere, warm its lower atmosphere Scope One measured direct emissions released from sources that are owned or controlled by the company, including corporate car fleets, captive power and surface. generation facilities, or fuel combustion for heat. Major greenhouse gases (GHG) are emitted through various everyday human activities, such as using Scope Two measured indirect emissions associated from the generation of heat, electricity and transportation. However, pollu- imported energy carriers such as electricity, heat and steam. Scope Three tion caused by rapid industrialisation, de-forestation measured all other indirect emission sources that are not released from and the careless utilisation of natural resources have sources mentioned under Scopes One & Two, typically including business increased the percentage of greenhouse gases in our travel, waste disposal and outsourced activities. atmosphere, resulting in the current global warming crisis. This crisis calls for everyone to pay attention to As the first hotel to make a conscious effort to be entirely carbon neutral, one’s carbon footprint and mitigate the ways in which Colombo Courtyard has taken a significant and exemplary step towards making our planet a safer, more habitable place to live in, and one can hope we harm our planet. that this sets a trend among all other business entities across various sectors Colombo Courtyard has been able to do this with the – to reduce carbon footprints and take strides toward being environmentally-friendly, expertise of Carbon Consulting Company (CCC), an sustainable and, most important, responsible citizens.
102 | ASL
103 | ASL
T
he highlight of the year in Sri Lanka is New Year – but in April, not January! Although the Sinhalese & Tamil (Buddhist & Hindu) New Year is commemorated on 13 & 14 April, celebrations take place throughout the month. The Western Province Tourist Board (WPTB) sees this as an opportunity for Sri Lankans and tourists to share an experience of cultural and traditional tourism, by inviting visitors and villagers to join in the fun together. The 2013 New Year was celebrated in Negombo under the auspices of the WPTB and the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau. In 2014, beach hotels in Beruwela were hosts to a daylong series of events organised by the local Area Guides Association with main sponsorship by the WPTB and the Palm Hotel and Hotel Lanka Princess. Over 150 guests from Europe as well as locals took part in the traditional games and contests. These included the choosing of the WPTB New Year Prince & Princess, pillow fights and the partaking of traditional New Year sweetmeats.
TRADITIONAL
NEW YEAR
104 | ASL
WPTB Chairman, Claude Thomasz, said the event is held annually “to encourage community awareness of tourism and to foster interaction between visitors and villagers in the traditional cultural manner by experiencing the unique heritage of Sri Lankan hospitality.”
q
105 | ASL
Mahaweli Reach
A KANDY ICON
K
andy boasts many attractions for visitors, including the Temple of the Tooth, the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya, and history rich in culture from the days when it was the medieval kingdom of the country. It also has an iconic hotel, among the finest in Sri Lanka, in a superb location. Mahaweli Reach is aptly named as it stands proudly on a bank of the Mahaweli River at a Reach, where a continuous stretch of water flows between two bends as it wends its way to the sea. Only 5km from the centre of the former Royal City of Kandy, it offers respite in luxury from the city’s clamour amidst lush tropical gardens with majestic mountains rising to its north.
TIPS FOR TOURISTS PEOPLE
A feature of the hotel is the cordiality and willingness of the smartly-clad staff, with the men dressed in white sarongs and tunics with a royal sash, and the women in traditional blouse and sari worn Kandyan style. The hotel rambles through its tropical garden setting like a royal palace, with alcoves, flower arbours, and comfortable accommodation spread over five floors.
Meals from an exquisite and extensive buffet presentation for breakfast, lunch and dinner, or from either table d’hote or a la carte menus, are taken in the river-view, garden restaurant, or can be arranged on riverside terraces, by the pool, or in the suites and rooms from the 24-hour room service menu. The bar with a plentiful range of premium and local drinks, as well as cigars, is conveniently situated in the centre The hotel, Kandy’s first five star property, began as a of the hotel, close to the reception lobby. family affair, and is still under the direction of the son of its founder, Jayantha Panabokke, making sure its reputation for heartfelt, gracious Recreational facilities available include boat rides along the reach of hospitality is maintained. It began life as a four roomed guest house the Mahaweli River, a fully equipped gym, a clay tennis court and table when its owner, the late Mr Atul Panabokke, a tea planter, decided in tennis, billiards and snooker, with the Victoria Golf Course within 45 the early 1970s to make his home available for visitors who wanted minutes drive. a change from the ancient hostelries in the city. Excursions on nature treks to nearby wildlife sanctuaries and mountain ranges and to visit ancient temples and local craft centres such as a Its location and the dedication of the Panabokke family to their traditional drum workshop, village brass makers and even a quartz guests’ happiness was so appreciated that they soon had to spectacle craftsman are among the hotel’s irresistible attractions. extend their simple house into their garden with 23 rooms, later adding a further 27 rooms. The hotel was eventually renovated and The banquet hall of the hotel is ideal for conferences and Kandyan repositioned as a five star hotel with 112 rooms including three style weddings, and an additional attraction, a new riverside spa, is executive suites and a Presidential Suite. scheduled to open in May. Each of the 108 spacious deluxe rooms has a private balcony or terrace providing panoramic views of either the river, tropical gardens or the hotel’s huge free-form swimming pool, and is equipped with modern amenities including high speed internet access, in-room safes, ironing facilities, IDD, mini-bars, satellite television, and en suite bathroom with bath and shower. The Executive Suites have a separate living area and fully equipped workstation, marble bathroom with Jacuzzi and separate shower area.
SOME
From its humble beginnings, Maheweli Reach has become a hotel of international standing as the Panabokke family have linked with the Universal Group, the most experienced hoteliers in the Maldives, to preserve its reputation with quality, excellence, charm and genuine welcome for all guests who come from around the world to enjoy the hotel’s bounteous Kandyan hospitality. An icon indeed.
Some one once described Sri Lankans as being like “tropical Italians.” Sri Lankans are generous with their smiles and their eyes express genuine emotion. The majority of Sri Lankans are Buddhist, with Tamils, Muslims and Burghers (descendants of Sri Lankans and Europeans) making up the rest. Sri Lankans welcome strangers and are keen to see that visitors are happy to be here.
obtaining cash with credit or debit cards in every town; look for the sign equivalent to the one on your card. Some ATMs do not return the card until after the transaction is completed, so don’t pocket the cash and leave without collecting your card.
CUSTOMS DUTY-FREE ALLOWANCES Import on arrival: visitors to Sri Lanka are officially required to declare all currencies, valuable equipment, jewellery and gems etc., so they can be taken back on departure. Visitors are not allowed to bring in goods in commercial quantities, or prohibited/ MONEY restricted goods such as dangerous drugs, weapons, explosive The Sri Lankan Rupee (Rs) is made up of 100 cents but you’ll rarely see devices or gold. Drug trafficking or possession leads to severe cents as most coins are of Rs10, 5, 2 and 1 in value. Currency notes in punishments up to the death penalty. circulation are in denominations of Rs5000, 2000, 1000, 500, 100, 50, 20, and 10. As new notes are being phased in replacing two older versions, you will find some notes of the same denomination come in three different colours. Watch carefully when you are handling currency to see that you don’t mistake a high denomination note for a lower one. Even Sri Lankans make that mistake. Visitors bringing into Sri Lanka an excess of $10,000 in any foreign currency should declare the amount to customs on arrival, to allow that much to be taken out again. Keep exchange receipts so you can easily exchange excess rupees back into foreign currency on departure. Banking Hours: All banks in the country open for the public from 0900hrs to 1300hrs from Monday to Friday, but some banks have extended their opening hours until 15.00hrs and are also open on Saturday. There are ATMs for
106 | ASL
107 | ASL
A tourist is allowed to bring in duty free: 1.5 litres of spirits, 2 bottles of wine, a small quantity of perfume and 250ml of toilet water. The duty free importation of cigarettes, cigars or tobacco is not permitted. However, locally manufactured brands of international cigarettes are readily available.
do get stolen. If items are stolen, report the theft to the nearest police station and, if you need proof for an insurance claim, obtain a copy of your report. The paper work involved in reporting losses can be time consuming and irritating. Tourists should not assume that if procedures move slowly they are expected to offer a bribe. If you face really serious problems, e.g. in case of a driving accident, you should contact your consular office as quickly as possible.
Tourists are allowed to export without paying export tax up to 10kg of tea grown and packed in Sri Lanka. The export of Sri Lankan antiques (defined as an item over 100 years old) is not allowed.
CONDUCT Cleanliness and modesty are appreciated even in informal situations. Nudity and topless bathing are prohibited and subject to heavy fines. Display of intimacy is not suitable in public and will probably draw unwanted attention.
UNWRITTEN THE ROAD
HANDS AND EATING
DRIVING PERMIT
VISITING PLACES OF WORSHIP Visitors to Buddhist and Hindu temples are welcome though the shrines of Hindu temples are sometime closed to non-Hindus. Visitors to temples are expected to be respectably clad, bare footed and with heads uncovered.
IN CONVERSATION
Do not attempt to shake hands or be photographed with Buddhist monks or to pose for photos with statues of the Buddha or other deities and paintings.
In conversation Sri Lankans may ask questions that a foreigner would regard as being too personal. This simply reflects the emphasis Sri Lankans place on family life.
WOMEN
PHOTOGRAPHY
To avoid causing offence or inviting harassment, there are simple precautions that women should take, since what a woman might wear in her home country could be regarded as provocative in Sri Lanka. Thus loose–fitting, non-see-through clothes covering the shoulders, and skirts, dresses or shorts that are at least knee length should be worn, and are sensible for protection from the sun too.
Sri Lankans are happy to pose for photographs but it is polite to ask for permission first. Street entertainers like snake charmers would expect a fee for posing.
Smoking is prohibited in public places. Please observe non-smoking rules. Smoking is permitted in some enclosed spaces (like bars) but if in doubt, ask before lighting up.
108 | ASL
OF
The rule of ‘might is right’ applies. Flashing headlights mean ‘get out of the way, I’m not stopping’. In these circumstances it is advisable to give the oncoming vehicle adequate space, since they usually approach at high speed. Roundabouts are generally a free-for-all, so take your chance cautiously.
Use your right hand for giving, taking, eating or shaking hands as the left hand is considered to be unclean. Do not shake hands with a Buddhist Monk or a Hindu Swami. Greet them with your hands clasped together as if in prayer and raising them to your forehead bending slightly forward. When handing objects to another person, using right hand or both hands would be appreciated by the receiver.
SMOKING
RULES
SAFETY As in any country, theft can occur, especially when travelling by train or in a crowded bus. It is sensible to secure valuables, passport and credit cards out of sight, such as in a money belt or buttoned pockets, and not to leave bags, computers, cameras, etc., unattended when travelling. Keep a record of vital documents, including your passport number, credit card numbers etc., separate from those documents in case they
Foreigners intending to drive in Sri Lanka are required to obtain a ‘recognition permit’ that is issued up to the expiry date of your International Driving Permit. This is a simple process. Just call at the Automobile Association of Sri Lanka at 40, Sir M.M. Markar Mawatha, Galle Face, Colombo 3, open 08.30-16.30, Monday-Friday except on public holidays. If you do not have an International Driving Permit but have your national licence, you must apply for a temporary Sri Lankan Driving Licence from the Registrar of Motor Vehicles, Department of Motor Traffic at 341, Elvitigala Mawatha, Colombo5. Tel:0112694331. Temporary driving licences are issued on payment of Rs 2500+VAT per month up to a maximum period of one year. (Rates are subject to change)
MAINS ELECTRICITY Mains power in Sri Lanka is 230 V @ 50 Hz AC. Some hotels have transformers/ converters enabling visitors to use non-
compatible appliances. There may be pronounced variations in the voltage and occasional power cuts. As socket types vary, it is advisable to carry a universal adapter.
BUSINESS HOURS Government Offices: Open 09.30-1700, Monday-Friday. Restaurants and Bars: Permitted hours for alcohol service are 11.00-14.00 and 17.00-2300; however some restaurants/bars have different licences and do not close in the afternoon. No alcohol is served on Poya (Full Moon) Days.
CANAL
CRUISE
Victorian warehouses with porthole windows, sand miners in flat bottomed boats dredging the river bed, river houses on stilts and the occasional ungainly pelican lumbering skywards. Flights of concrete steps along the river banks lead down to the river, enabling housewives to do their laundry, and there is even a commercial river laundry complex to gaze at. After passing under a railway bridge, the scenery changes dramatically, with bamboo and palm trees leaning towards the water and the river banks on both sides covered in lush, and seemingly impenetrable, greenery. A pleasant stop would have been the shack on stilts made out of bamboo, which offered cups of tea, but we continued our journey. The old hand-pulled ferry that was the only means of crossing the river remains, although a road bridge has been built to replace it. It is a round trip of 24km from the canal to Kelani Temple, and the approach by river sets a mood of serenity for visiting this venerated place. It’s also possible to go by boat for the 40km round trip cruise along the canal to the Negombo Lagoon. If that’s too long, Hamilton Leisure Craft Boats also operate shorter jaunts along the canal.
The entrance to Hamilton Canal
T
he introduction of a commercial and competently run boat service based on the northern bank of the Hamilton Canal and also serving the Kelani River, is a fitting complement to the newly restored canal with its cute suspension footbridge. The footbridge is located at Hekitta Junction, Hendala, Wattala and is easily reached on the way to or from the airport on the old route. (The new Airport Expressway bypasses it). The bridge marks a triumphant entrance to the Hamilton Canal from the sea and from Kelani River.
The bridge’s buttress of granite on the southern bank bears letters in brass stating: Hamilton Canal. The Gateway to the Aquarina in the north of Colombo. An attraction with diversity. A polished granite plaque below it records the names of dignitaries who attended the opening in August 2013, and give thanks to the funding provided by the Government of Japan for the canal’s restoration. Hamilton Canal was originally opened in 1802 at the instigation of a British government agent, Garvin Hamilton. It was built to link with a canal that had been
constructed previously by the Dutch; hence it is sometimes referred to as the Dutch Canal. It extends 22km from the mouth of the Kelani River to the Maha Oya, north of Negombo. The history of the canal as a link to the sea for villagers living along its banks is easy to imagine by journeying on it in a hired motorboat. On the trip that I made recently, we joined the small motorboat with outboard engine by the steps of the bridge. The boatman, and skipper, Samira, had the confidence and concern for passengers of a navy man and, indeed, he has been trained by a former Sri Lankan Navy commander. But, Samira said modestly, he was a fisherman before joining Hamilton Leisure Crafts & Sports (Pvt) Ltd as a boatman.
The canal trip is interesting for what it reveals of village life. While the seaside bank is covered in lush tropical foliage where kingfishers dart and cormorants bask on branches in the sun, the eastern bank is residential. Fishing boats are tied up by the bank, having returned from overnight sea fishing trips. On the decks of some them, fishermen are emptying their nets to the delight of housewives waiting to buy fish for lunch. There is a small fish market on the bank and, a surprise; branches of the country’s two main supermarkets are also there. In the canal itself, we saw a woman paddling herself along in the broken hull of a fishing boat, pulling up her crab pots seeing what the day’s catch was. A man sat in the glare of the hot sun, patiently fishing with a rod and line. There are gullies off the canal that lead to lagoons hemmed in by the beach; that’s where boats are repaired and fishermen rest. We puttered slowly down another offshoot to find ourselves in a romantic lagoon; deep shadows were cast on the water by the leaves and
HAMILTON LEISURE CRAFTS AND SPORTS (PVT) LTD. No.:9/1/1, Hekitta Junction, Wattala. Tel: 11 3 193 912, 11 2 980 802, 075 41 42 585, 075 72 55 744 E-mail: info@hamiltonboatsservices.com
straggling roots of mangroves. It was a tranquil and perfect place to commune with nature. As we motored back down the canal to the bridge, we saw an elegant new vessel proceeding gracefully towards the river. This is a newly introduced floating restaurant. We boarded it for lunch, which we enjoyed under the shade of the vegetation on the river bank. The vessel has been cleverly designed; it has a single 45hp outboard motor with chrome tables and chairs fixed to the deck. There are glass panels at the side that can be opened to let the breeze flow through, and a high roof. There are lights on board so the boat can be hired for an evening cocktail cruise, as well as for daytime picnics. The boat has been added to his fleet of four outboard motor launches by Camilus Fernando and is operated by his company, Hamilton Leisure Crafts. He is confident that cruising along the canal to Negombo or up the Kelani River will become a popular excursion for tourists. With fees starting at Rs1,000 for a group of five, it represents remarkable value for doing something pleasantly different, and seeing another side of Sri Lanka.
q Picture Courtesy: Hamilton Leisure
He instructed all of us, his passengers, to don the lifejackets provided and then the boat set out to putter down the canal to join the river. As the Kelani River flows to the sea, it passes through industrial and residential complexes, all of which seem to have been built to ignore the river, their backs facing the beautiful sweep of the majestic waterway. So the first part of the river cruise is unexciting unless you are interested in 110 | ASL
111 | ASL
USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Dept . of Wildlife Conservation Airport (B.I.A.) 011-2888585 011-2264444, 011-2252861-5 Flight Information (All Airlines) Eth Athuru Sevena 047-2232147 011-2263047, 091 – 7335555 Srilankan Airlines – General Lines Government Information Centre 1919 019-733-5555, 0197332677 ICRC- Red Cross Baggage Service 011-2503346 019-7333366 Brief Garden, Open Hours – 08.00a.m – 05.00p.m Immigration & Emigration Department 034-2274462 011-5329000 Buddhist Cultural Centre (Anderson Road) The National Museum – Colombo 011-2734256, 011-2726234 011-2694767 Ceylon Hotel Corporation – Hotline National Zoological Gardens 011-271271-3 011-5585858 Sri Lanka Tourism Sri Lanka Customs 011-2437059-60 011-2470945 – 48 Customs Biodiversity Protection Unit (Artifacts) Travel Information Centre 011-2426906, 011-2437952 011-2472179 Tourist Police Dept. of Archaeology 011-2421451 Fax: 011-2382209 011-2692840/1 Cultural Triangle Office (CCF) Child Line Sri Lanka (Report any child abuse) 1929 011-2500733/2
Depar tments
Immigration & Emigration 011-5329000 National Botanic Gardens Department 081-2388654 National Museums Department 011-2694767 National Zoological Gardens Department 011-2712752 Postal Department 011-2328301-03 Sri Lanka Railways Department 011-2421280-89 Archeological Department 011-2692840-41 Buddhist Affairs Department 011-2337315
112 | ASL
Motor Traffic Department 011-2694331-36 Government Information Department 011-2512758 Sri Lanka Customs Department 011-2470945-48 Wildlife Conservation Department 011-2888585 Forest Department 011-2866631-32 Coast Conservation Department 011-2449754 Cultural Affairs Department 011-2872031 Excise Department 011-2300166
113 | ASL
114 | ASL
115 | ASL
116 | ASL
1 | ASL
2 | ASL