Madison Essentials November/December 2022

vol. 82

publisher

Amy S. Johnson

ajohnson@madisonessentials.com editorial director

Amy S. Johnson

ajohnson@madisonessentials.com

lead designer

Jennifer Denman senior copy editor & lead staff writer

Kyle Jacobson sales & marketing director

Amy S. Johnson

ajohnson@madisonessentials.com

designers

Crea Stellmacher, Linda Walker, Barbara Wilson administration

Debora Knutson, Olivia Seehafer contributing writers

Jeanne Engle, Chris Gargan, Libby Jacobs, Anne Sayers, Kaitlin Svabek photographer

Eric Tadsen

additional photographs

Grumpy Troll, Maggie Honig, Arlene Koziol, Matt Reetz/Madison Audubon, Travel Wisconsin, Cuma Ugur, Peter Walz, Wisconsin Women’s Network, Zack Zdrale

subscriptions

Madison Essentials is available free at over 200 locations. To purchase an annual subscription (six issues), send mailing information and $24 to Madison Essentials, c/o Towns & Associates, Inc., PO Box 174, Baraboo, WI 53913-0174. Or sign up for a FREE online subscription at madisonessentials.com.

essential

arts

Zack Zdrale ........................................................................ 30 community

An Inspired Life in America .............................................. 28 dining Salvatore’s Tomato Pies ...................................................... 6 landmark

The Charming Mount Horeb Main Street Historic District ............................................ 26 nonprofit Make 2023 a Year for the Birds 20 Wisconsin Women’s Network 12 shopping

Goodman’s Jewelers 16 travel

Gifting Memories through Travel 34

From

from the PUBLISHER

The end of the year, for me, is a time to express gratitude. Thanks to the efforts of everyone impacting Madison Essentials, we’ve reached 18 years, and, personally, I hit a 25-year company milestone. I was also heartened to be the third recipient of the Dane Buy Local Rose Molz Local Legacy Award, an award established to recognize long-term contributions to Dane Buy Local and local businesses. Rose was the first recipient, with Metcalfe’s Market to follow. It’s my goal to pay homage by continuing to work on behalf of local businesses and our community as a whole.

The reality, though, is that no one person is ever alone responsible for recognitions. I work with an incredible group of people, from designers and copy editors to writers and photographers to sales and administrative support—I would need several pages to list everyone and their contributions. And let’s not forget our inspirations. We have an extraordinary community of businesses, organizations, and individuals. Over our 18 years, we’ve been able to tell so many stories, and with all we’ve shared, there are countless more, including some new ideas on the horizon.

Thank you to everyone who has been part of Madison Essentials, has been supportive of me, and has positively impacted the place we live in. I can’t wait to do more!

comments

We welcome your questions and comments. Please submit to Madison Essentials, c/o Towns & Associates, Inc., PO Box 174, Baraboo, WI 53913-0174 or email ajohnson@madisonessentials.com.

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Towns & Associates, Inc. PO Box 174 Baraboo, WI 53913-0174 P (608) 356-8757 • F (608) 356-8875 madisonessentials.com

amy johnson

Cover photograph— Burrata from Salvatore’s Tomato Pies taken by Eric Tadsen

Photographs on page 3: left— Goodman’s Jewelers taken by Eric Tadsen right— provided by Travel Wisconsin

WHITNEY WAY

WHITNEY WAY MADISON,

Salvatore’s TOMATO PIES

by Kyle Jacobson

The year is 1991. I’m seven years old wearing hand-me-down jeans and a t-rex print t-shirt, and my favorite cartoon heroes have a new movie out: Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles II: The Secret of the Ooze. The movie opens with a shot of New York City, the Brooklyn Bridge in the foreground. We zoom in and get to ground level, where everybody is eating pizza. All these years later, I still remember the couple eating pizza between smooches and the cops eating pizza while making an arrest. In my mind, everyone on the East Coast lived and breathed pizza; I

found mecca to a religion I didn’t even know I belonged to.

That’s the power of pizza, and we’re not short of worshippers or shrines in the Madison area. The owner of Salvatore’s Tomato Pies, Patrick DePula, even hails from New Jersey, home to the longest continuously running, family-owned pizzeria, Papa’s Tomato Pies in Trenton. But association does not greatness make. Fresh ingredients and truly doing everything from scratch, however, can certainly get you there.

El Santo

Even in the beginning, Patrick and his wife, Nichole, were frequenting the Dane County Farmers’ Market for ingredients. “When I first started going, I would bring a shoulder bag that I would put stuff in,” says Patrick. “Then that evolved into my son’s red wagon that I’d pull around. Then it evolved into two wagons. Then a big yellow gorilla cart with the other two wagons. Now it’s the big yellow gorilla cart and a truck.” They went from spending $400 in 2011 to $5,000 today.

Though the idea was initially to make New Jersey–style pizza, what ended up happening is something Patrick calls pizza with New Jersey roots filtered through Wisconsin. The logic is simple enough, you can’t get food fresher than what’s grown right here, so why fight it? This mentality has created Patrick’s customers’ favorite seasonal pizzas, some so good, they’ve become staples.

“Farmer Johns Smoked Gouda, that’s a pizza named for Farmer John that we only wanted to do in the summertime when heirloom tomatoes are available

because their colors are fantastic when you have yellow, purple, and red tomatoes on this pizza.” When Patrick took it off the menu, customers weren’t having it.

Whether it’s Patrick’s customers or even family members, there’s this constant butting heads against what Patrick calls the convenience culture of the 1940s and ’50s. True, his grandfather immigrated from Italy and opened a series of neighborhood-style grocery stores in Trenton, and yes, they did turn into fullservice supermarkets. And his Uncle Joe opened the Centre Bridge Inn, a popular wedding venue in Pennsylvania. And Uncle Billy had delis, and Uncle Tony had a provisions company. But even with that background, when his mother heard about all the work Patrick puts into making pasta and processing meats, she asked, “Why don’t you just buy it?”

To answer that question, let’s go back to when Patrick worked in tech and HR. “I wasn’t really making anything in my career. I was shuffling paper and hiring and recruiting people and working for

What ended up happening is something Patrick calls pizza with New Jersey roots filtered through Wisconsin .

Gnocchi Sardi, House-Made Fresh Pasta

Burrata

larger companies. I had this realization in my early 30s that I couldn’t imagine doing this for the rest of my life.” With a three-year-old and Nichole pregnant, which is the ideal time to plunge into a new career, the opportunity came from Vito Cerniglia of the Italian Workmen’s Club to start a pizzeria in Salvatore’s original Sun Prairie, Main Street location.

Would it have been easier to wait and maybe try to open a restaurant later? Probably. Was Patrick willing to set aside his vision for the sake of doing what was easier? Absolutely not—just as he wouldn’t give in to convenience culture. Patrick says, “We always had this idea that we should attempt to cook the way that my family did when they immigrated from Italy.”

Doing things the way they did in the old country extends to two of the most important factors in good pizza: the dough and the sauce. “There’s no sugar in our dough. We rely on fermentation to build natural sugars. And there’s no

Crispy Skin, Wild Alaskan Coho Salmon

sugar in our sauce—just straight up tomatoes.” After a trip through the gas stone deck oven, you’ve got yourself a delicious crust that’s crunchy on the outside and soft on the inside.

Patrick’s mindfulness doesn’t only impact customers. It’s reflected in how he treats his employees, providing benefits, sick days, and vacation days. It’s how he treats his suppliers, believing a relationship with local farmers is more important for the community. And on community, Patrick has worked with Marcia Castro and Patrick O’Halloran, now of The Deliciouser, in improving a school’s lunch program by creating healthier options. “School lunches should be part of the education process, not a break from it,” says Patrick. He notes Japan, where students help prepare lunch and help clean up. In the convenience culture, everything is go go go. What better time than lunch to educate students on the importance of making healthy food choices; appreciating what goes into cooking; and, as a bonus, rebelling against treating meals

as recharging the battery rather than as an opportunity for connection.

Patrick has also teamed up with Pio of Delta Beer Lab to create Sal’s Pale Ale: a sessionable beer, meaning relatively low ABV, that’s a clean, crisp, and aromatic complement to any pizza, including the El Santo (the Sun Prairie Salvatore’s has a proclivity for naming pizzas after famous Mexican luchadores). El Santo is a seasonal pizza featuring sweet corn from Green Barn Farm Market.

Salvatore’s has come a long way over the decade, going from 3 employees to nearly 200, and I don’t think even Patrick knows what the future holds for his and Nichole’s pizzerias. Whatever the direction, Greater Madison is becoming more and more its own pizza haven, and Salvatore’s will certainly continue playing a predominant role in it.

Kyle Jacobson is lead writer and senior copy editor for Madison Essentials

Photographs by Eric Tadsen

Photograph by Barbara Wilson

Kyle Jacobson

Whipped Ricotta, Grilled Sourdough, Pistachio, Hot Honey

Celebrate life in “America’s Dairyland!” This beautiful Wisconsin bamboo cutting board will add a little local flavor to your charcuterie board this holiday season. Little Luxuries 230 State St., Stop 2, Madison littleluxuriesmadison.com

AND MORTARBRICK

Winter Favorite Tea: Chocolate Hazelnut $5.95-$19.95. Ceramic teapot: $34.95. We ship from our store in Mount Horeb. Telsaan Tea 108 East Main St., Mount Horeb telsaan.com

So many thanks, so many cards. on FB and IG @Anthology230 Anthology 230 State St., Stop 1, Madison anthologymadison.com

Brandy Old Fashioned Gift Set featuring Homemade Brandy and Door County Cocktail Cherries, Angostura Bitters, and a cocktail book. Just $50. Old Sugar Distillery 931 East Main St., Suite 8, Madison oldsugardistillery.com

Since 1979, Wisconsin Women’s Network (WWN) has worked to improve the status of women and girls in Wisconsin through communication, education, advocacy, and connections. The names and faces behind the organization’s mission are strong women fueled by passion who seek to improve the community around them and make Wisconsin a better place for women and girls.

Prior to the dedicated board members who serve today was Kathryn

WISCONSIN WOMEN’S NETWORK

Advancing Wisconsin Women and Girls for Over 40 Years

by Libby Jacobs

“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.” –Margaret Mead

Clarenbach, a founder of the WWN. Clarenbach was a renowned leader of the feminist movement and an activist for continuing education for women. She helped convince John F. Kennedy to establish the President’s Commission on the Status of Women in 1961, which led to John Reynolds, the 36th governor of Wisconsin, authorizing the Wisconsin Commission on the Status of Women in 1964.

The Commission was created to advise the governor on issues and legislation that directly affected women, such as laws pertaining to sexual assault, divorce, and marital property. However, in 1979, the Commission was disbanded by Governor Lee Dreyfus because of the growing backlash against the women’s movement. He claimed the Commission was not accomplishing enough despite the Commission’s contributions to public policy, which led to an outpour of support for the group by women and women’s organizations.

As a result, several influential Wisconsin women banded together to form WWN, a nonpartisan coalition composed of individuals and organizations with the common goal to improve the advancement, health, safety, and security of women throughout Wisconsin. Notable feminist leaders, including Vel Phillips, Ada Deer, Midge Miller, Mary Lou Munts, and Nancy Forbeck, were instrumental in organizing the WWN as we know today.

WWN’s agenda was based on principles articulated in “Wisconsin Women and the National Plan of Action,” which was adopted in 1977 at the first National Women’s Conference

in Houston. Over 1,300 Wisconsin women from different income groups, ages, lifestyles, and racial and religious backgrounds came together to voice their needs and hopes for the future. Recommendations were formed for the president, which led to several notable improvements for the well-being of women, including the expansion of legal protection and funds for those experiencing domestic violence and their children, enabling women with disabilities to access education and employment opportunities, prohibiting discrimination at all levels of education, and calling for health insurance to cover women as individuals.

The work of this generation of feminists established the foundation upon which women have continued to build for a just and equitable society, and the WWN is continuing that legacy. Today, the WWN Board of Directors works to continue

the advancement of women through three major initiatives: the Policy Institute, the Mentorship Program, and networking events.

Launched in 2015, the WWN Policy Institute provides hands-on leadership, communications, and policy advocacy training to women from around the state every year. The purpose of the Institute is to increase the number of Wisconsinites who have the confidence, skills, and strategic knowledge to successfully engage in their local and statewide communities on policy issues that impact Wisconsin’s women and girls. Participants work in small teams with experienced mentors and develop a specific, real-world policy advocacy project that closely relates to the WWN’s mission. Through dynamic training, participants develop the skills necessary to drive and advocate for policy change. And, most importantly, participants make real change in the process and may impact state legislation during the four-month course. To date, the WWN has trained over 200 Wisconsin women through the Policy Institute programming.

Continuing this great work can only be done by investing in the future. WWN does just that through their Mentorship Program, which has one mission: to provide women the opportunity to cultivate meaningful relationships with strong, inspirational role models throughout Wisconsin. “Our mentors are members of the Network’s large network of women professionals,” says mentor committee member and board member at large Leah Ujda. “These mentors come from a variety of professions and backgrounds, all uniting under the same cause: they are dedicated to helping women succeed.”

In 2020, 20 undergraduates were matched with 20 professionals in the Madison community. Then, in the wake of the pandemic, we regrouped,

A small group of thoughtful, committed women continue to change the future for Wisconsin’s women and girls.

reshaped, and rediscovered the power of WWN. Our Mentorship Program pivoted quickly to an online environment after COVID-19 made it unsafe for mentor/ mentee pairs to meet in person. After finishing up the mentorship year online, the program came back stronger.

Recognizing the opportunity in a virtual platform, the Mentorship Program has since expanded statewide to provide even more early-in-career women mentorship opportunities. All of the great work across WWN must also have space to be celebrated. This is done through a series of events to help connect strong, inspiring women in your community. Such events include Feminism on Tap; Artful Women; and the largest event hosted by WWN, the Women’s Equality Day gathering. The Women’s Equality Day celebration is held annually to celebrate the anniversary of the 19th amendment, which granted all women the right to vote (though in practice, millions were still denied that right). It also serves as a way to recognize the need for and to continue conversations for advancing equity.

Proving Margaret Mead was right, a small group of thoughtful, committed women continue to change the future for Wisconsin’s women and girls. As put by treasurer and longtime board member Karen Meulendyke, “It is through this organization that I have learned about what it takes to run a nonprofit organization with all volunteers, the power of advocacy, and truly how a group of women can get almost anything done.”

Libby Jacobs is the WWN communications chair and board member at large.

Photographs provided by Wisconsin Women’s Network

Libby Jacobs

JEWELERS GOODMAN’S

by Kyle Jacobson

“And if it wouldn’t be too much, I’d like to get something for you, Clark. Something...really nice.”

–Cousin Eddie, Christmas Vacation

As Clark says, Eddie’s heart is bigger than his brain, and it’s Cousin Eddie’s spirit of generosity that permits us to forgive his antics. The holidays are approaching, and with the spirit of giving and understanding in full bloom, I’m once again in awe of the charity of others. This includes the charitable small businesses in the Greater Madison area, whose fostering of interpersonal connections throughout the community aren’t just for show.

The story of Goodman’s Jewelers is well-known in Madison, and for good reason. Even through the hardships of 2020, John Hayes never lost sight of the original owners’, Bob and Irwin Goodman’s, vision of philanthropy first.

“That’s a big belief of Bob and Irwin’s,” says John. “You have to support the community that supports you.” From the recreational to the religious to community services, if it has the Goodman name on it, it’s most likely part of the over $10 million the two donated in their lifetimes. John upholds the Goodman’s legacy through donations and support for Big Brothers

Big Sisters of Dane County, United Way, and the Goodman Community Center, to name a few. He also continues the longstanding tradition of paying for the first 500 swimmers that visit the Goodman Pool every year.

Irwin fell in love with Madison way back in the 1930s, “when Irwin was an athlete with the University of Minnesota,” says John. “He was a track athlete—shotput and javelin. In fact, he held the shotput record for a lot of years. And Bob played a lot of baseball; he was a very good athlete too. The competition led Irwin to compete against Wisconsin. During one of the competitions, he discovered

a jewelry store that wasn’t doing well. He convinced his parents to buy the store in ’33. In ’38, he bought the store from them and convinced Bob to join him in business.”

John’s own story for how he came to work at a jewelry store places him all over the Midwest, but he recalls when he was “working for Continental Oil Company managing a gas station. I was offered a district manager position to be responsible for five stores for a whole $100 more a month.” That’s when he decided to move on from the petrol life to something he knew diddly squat about: jewelry. “I’d been in a jewelry store twice in my life before that. Once when I bought an engagement ring, and once when I went in with my older brother, I was probably five, and bought a mother’s ring for my mom.”

The opportunity for change came from a friend working for Zales in Marshalltown, Iowa. John went through Zales’ accredited manager training program and bounced around the stores for a few years before getting connected

to Bob and Irwin through his friend, who had become a ring manufacturer in the Twin Cities. Goodman’s was one of his friend’s accounts, and they were looking to replace five people who were getting ready for retirement. On June 28, 1983, John came in for his first day of work, a buying session, and hit the ground running.

Over the next 15 years, John went from salesperson to sales manager to general manager. When Bob and Irwin decided to retire, in 1998, John says they gave him the option to purchase the business. “It was more of a transition than a transaction. They treated me like a son.” The transition was so natural that a lot of people didn’t even realize a change in ownership had occurred. John often visited Bob and Irwin long afterwards, as they still had a lot to give. Irwin passed away in August, 2009, and Bob in April, 2010.

John keeps the Goodmans alive in ways beside philanthropy. Their philosophy on paying employees salary and

hourly wages instead of commission continues. As John says, “I didn’t work on commission for Bob and Irwin. We work on team effect to want to sit down and listen to the customer—find out what their needs are. Find out what they like before we show them things that

they’re going to be able to afford and that are going to be long lasting.”

Every single piece, from the $20 bracelet to the $20,000 engagement ring, has been looked at. “If there are stones in it, the stones are set straight; they’re set tight. They’re not chipped. There have been instances where I’ve sent an entire order back to vendors due to quality control.” There’s no cost too great for John when it comes to taking care of his customers and employees. Whether you shop or work here, you’re family.

John’s customers include those looking for something to give to someone special in their lives; those looking to reward themselves, maybe because of a promotion; and collectors. In that range, there’s no room for poor quality or for pieces tainted by bad practices. John even gave a presentation in Cape Town, South Africa, on ethics in the industry from the point of view of a small business. “From where the gemstones are mined to where they’re cut to where they’re set and put into jewelry to the customer’s hand or neck, it’s all got to be done right.”

Photograph by Barbara Wilson

Kyle Jacobson

Kyle

Photographs by Eric Tadsen

MAKE 2023 A YEAR for the Birds

by Kaitlin Svabek

As we look back on 2022, Madison Audubon celebrated some wonderful successes thanks to the support of our community, members, and volunteers. We helped band 300 American kestrels with the Central Wisconsin Kestrel Research team and 580 purple martin nestlings with the Wisconsin Purple Martin Association, which will eventually provide data to conservationists and researchers studying these amazing avians facing population decreases. Migrating monarch butterflies, which were listed as endangered on the International Union for Conservation of Nature’s Red List, will benefit from hundreds of pounds of native plant seed collected and the 3,819 total acres that are being protected in our sanctuaries as habitat for wildlife. It’s been an incredible, joyful year, and we owe so much of it to the communities we serve.

Humans are capable of so much good, yet some of the biggest issues facing wildlife are caused entirely by humankind. From habitat loss to pollution to climate change, the science is certain; we have been going in the wrong direction for too long. Committing to take action, no matter the scale, matters. With the new year just around the corner, we are counting down a few great ways to protect birds and nature in 2023.

Photograph by Arlene Koziol

A sandhill crane lands gracefully on the ice.

KEEP LEARNING

The world is constantly changing, all of us along with it. A crucial aspect of protecting our whole natural community—people and wildlife alike—is to keep building our own knowledge by staying informed of new and existing challenges and solutions. For people who care about the environment, this includes breaking down the barriers that many people face when accessing, enjoying, and protecting nature by:

• Signing up for a course, meeting, or listening session that deepens your understanding of your community.

• Learning from people with diverse perspectives on the great outdoors, such as through Madison Audubon’s speaker series.

• Reading new books about how conservation and access to nature intersects with diversity, equity, inclusion, and access. Our Nature Up Bookshelf offers bimonthly recommendations and a long list of previously recommended titles.

RAISE YOUR VOICE

Big change is needed to protect nature and wildlife. Everyone can make a difference by having conversations with loved ones and pressing their local and federal government representatives to stand up for what’s right. A big part of this is also

BIG changeIS NEEDED TO protect NATURE AND WILDLIFE.

Volunteers sow native seeds during prairie restoration work.

The pink blooms of swamp milkweed are amazing additions to your garden for pollinators.

Photograph by Matt Reetz/Madison Audubon

Photograph by Arlene Koziol

sharing your support for conservation, especially those in your area, including:

• Following local conservation projects and getting involved in initiatives that protect nature, wildlife, and communities you care about.

• Signing petitions and writing letters to the editor to encourage environmental responsibility.

• If you can, consider becoming a member of a local conservation organization. Did you know every single penny of your $20 yearlong membership to our Madison Audubon supports habitats and wildlife in Wisconsin?

TAKE ACTION CLOSE TO HOME

There’s so much value in the individual actions that each of us can take each day, month, and year. Within your home, yard, and workplace, small adjustments or big changes can really add up to do a lot of good, including:

• Adding at least one more native plant to your planter, garden, or yard. There are so many pretty and interesting ones.

• Looking for ways to reduce waste, like composting.

• Preventing bird window collisions by installing screens, stickers, or zen wind curtains.

• Volunteering for local efforts in your neighborhood, like seed collecting or citizen science programs (we have lots to choose from in 2023).

KEEP SPREADING AND SHARING IN THE JOY

Last, but certainly not least, be sure to keep feeding your curiosity and love for nature in the coming year. Some of us wander trails with family and friends or take field trips to appreciate how habitats and wildlife behaviors change throughout the year. Some of us take our cameras, sketchbooks, or journals and get creative while we’re basking in the splendor of the seasons. Let 2023 also be the year that you decide to:

Mark Martin, resident land manager at Madison Audubon’s Goose Pond Sanctuary, releases a banded snowy owl.

Photograph by Arlene Koziol

• Learn how to identify a new bird, a new plant, or a new insect.

• Visit a new place in nature—maybe it’s a park up the street or one of Madison Audubon’s sanctuaries.

• Go on your first birding adventure on your own, with a buddy or local bird club, or by joining our Beginning Birder outings.

Hopefully, you’re feeling ready to take the next year by storm. In the next issue, we’ll share some of the wonders of winter birds and wildlife. Until then, happy holidays and have a wonderful new year!

Kaitlin Svabek

Kaitlin Svabek is the communications specialist at Madison Audubon. Connect with the team at

follow them on social media @madisonaudubon.

Birders enjoy a sunset on the Wisconsin River during an outing.

Photograph by Maggie Honig

The Charming

Main Street Historic District MOUNT HOREB

While some may think that Norwegians named the village of Mount Horeb, its moniker was actually given by George Wright, an Englishman who came to Blue Mounds township in 1858. Wright was appointed postmaster of a new post office meant to serve residents of the eastern part of the township in 1861, and he had the privilege of naming it. After searching the Bible, Wright chose the name Mount Horeb. The post office remained in his home, about a mile from the present-day village, until 1867.

The post office was then relocated to the general store in the tiny settlement known as the Corners, the intersection of four major roads in that part of Dane County and east of Mount Horeb’s present-day downtown. Following the relocation of the post office, the community was called Horeb’s Corners then, finally, Mount Horeb. With the coming of many Norwegians in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Mount

Horeb acquired the Scandinavian flavor that remains today.

In 1881, the Chicago and North Western Railway decided to construct a line through Mount Horeb on the way to Lancaster. When a depot was built away from where most of the early businesses were located, some owners moved their businesses to be closer. Others built new. The prime commercial area was located almost immediately along South First Street and the 100 block of East Main Street. That area now encompasses Mount Horeb’s Main Street Historic District, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2019.

One of the businesses in the historic district is the Bruce Taylor Gallery. Bruce has been in his current storefront, 207 E. Main Street, for 28 of his 82 years. He says, “The building has a lot of charm and feels homey.” Originally the O.B. Dahle and Son General Store, built

by Jeanne Engle

in 1887, the building has a two-story Italianate section at the corner of Main and Second. Another seven entities are housed in the building, including offices of the owner, Pete Waltz. Bruce has the highest praise for Pete. “There is no better landlord on the face of the earth. At the start of the pandemic he was generous giving two months’ free rent and then charged only a half month’s rent for the following year.”

Attorney Pete Walz originally bought a half interest in his building in the 1970s and has been the sole owner for the past 25 years. The section of the building where his office is located has housed a post office, shoe repair shop, barber shop, insurance companies, and the first office of Mount Horeb Cable, along with other entities over the years. At one time a mezzanine was in use in the building. Today the space is used for storage. “The ceilings are nine feet tall, and you can see the original timbers in the unused

essential

Photograph provided by the Grumpy Troll

parts of the building. It’s substantially built,” says Pete.

Michael Anderson, a financial advisor with Edward Jones Investments, has been at 106 E. Main Street since 2006, but his firm has been in the building, constructed in 1894, since the mid1990s. Michael says, “Even though the building feels modern when you walk in, one can’t ignore its history, and we try to match the décor to the character of the building.” A few of Michael’s clients have even been employees of previous businesses that occupied the space, including a video rental store, hardware store, soda fountain, and realtor.

The building’s boomtown front was a commercial vernacular design constructed during early settlement years to evoke an image of progress and prosperity. According to the National Register nomination, concentrations of intact boomtown front commercial vernacular buildings of the type seen in Mount Horeb rarely survive a community’s pioneer era. The overall integrity of the buildings in the village is very good.

Next door at 108 E. Main Street is another boomtown front style building erected in 1885 by Dr. Niels Evans for his pharmacy, office, and home. Not only did Dr. Evans open Mount Horeb’s first hospital, but he served as village president, justice of the peace, Dane County supervisor, and member of the state legislature. He was also a founder and director of the State Bank of Mount Horeb and the Mount Horeb Independent Telephone Company. Like many early Mount Horeb businesses, the most recent occupant at 108 E.

Main, Moonhill Mercantile, moved in from another location.

Sugar Troll, a store with a new twist on an old-fashioned candy store offering sustainable, high-craft candies and Italian gelato, is at 122 E. Main Street and opened March 2021. A twostory masonry block 19th century commercial vernacular style, this store was originally a meat market. The building shows brick, segmental arched lintels at the second story, and is decorated with a cornice.

The owners of Sugar Troll, Robin Pharo and Tim Duerst, also own the Grumpy Troll Brew Pub, located at 105 S. Second Street. Robin and Tim like to “lean into the history” of the buildings and display many heritage pictures at Grumpy Troll. Robin explains, “The Grumpy Troll used to be a cheese factory. There’s a ghost on the premises, and everyone who has worked there has had an encounter with him. He’s friendly, and we think he may have been an employee of the cheese factory. Perhaps he really liked his job, so that’s why he stuck around.” Or maybe he likes the craft beer brewed at the Grumpy Troll.

Grumpy Troll celebrated 20 years in business in 2019, when Robin and Tim, fourth owners of the business, took over. “We are huge brewery fans and wanted to preserve the building. You get a lot of value and architectural features you couldn’t afford in a new build. It does cost more to maintain, and there are rules about windows, signage, and colors; however, buildings in redeveloped historic districts add so much to the community and tourism base.”

All of the interviewed businesses in the historic district agree that it’s the charm of the village that draws visitors. That and the trolls. When the 1980s Highway 18/151 bypass was built around Mount Horeb, businesses in the village were concerned about losing customers. Then they remembered the trolls one of the shops had placed on its lawn to attract visitors—trolls of ancient Norwegian lore that caught the attention of passing truckers. Village officials asked Michael Feeney, the troll carver of Mount Horeb, to create more. They were placed on Business 18/151, branded as the Trollway. So take a stroll on the Trollway, visit the businesses in the Main Street Historic District, and have a charmed day in the “Troll Capital of the World.”

Jeanne Engle is a freelance writer.

Jeanne Engle

Photograph by MOD Media Productions

The Hoff Mall in the Mount Horeb Main Street Historic District was featured in the November/December 2017 issue of Madison Essentials Learn more about this prominent building at madisonessentials.com/archive.

Photograph provided by the Grumpy Troll

Photograph by Peter Walz

essential community

Imagine leaving everything you know behind. The small village you and your friends grew up in. The city where you attended high school. And now you’re going somewhere a lot bigger, and nobody there speaks your language. You’re probably a little intimidated. Probably anxious or scared. Excited, sure, but I don’t think any of those other words describe how Cuma Ugur felt when he traveled from Turkey to the United States.

“I was always looking for adventure,” says Cuma. “I never liked staying home.” So, in 2018, with nothing more than what he was wearing, Cuma went to work in Maine, but it would be less than a year before he returned to Turkey for an internship.

Okay, that’s not really that interesting, but in 2020, Cuma wanted to return to the United States and see other states. There was one hang up, the cultural exchange program he’d used to come the first time ceased to exist, at least in the same capacity. With no money and a pandemic in full swing, it wasn’t looking good.

Cuma also refused to take an indirect flight. Most of those flights were stopping in Qatar and Russia. “We’re looking for

AN INSPIRED LIFE in America

by Kyle Jacobson

direct flights because the other ones are risky. When you’re flying to Qatar or Russia, they can say your visa—” Cuma gestures them taking it away.

“I almost lost hope. If I couldn’t get money or a flight, my cousin called me to live in the village. He asked if I’m available for weekends because he needed me on the farm. I said okay because I couldn’t find a flight. A few hours later, I finally found a flight, but I didn’t have any money for flights and expenses. I called my other cousin and got a loan. I got my ticket with my friends, and I told my cousin, ‘I’m sorry, I can’t come.’

“‘Why?’

“‘I’m going to the United States.’”

Once again, with only the shirt on his back, Cuma was off. He’d interviewed to work in a Wisconsin Dells resort as a maintenance tech to obtain his work visa. As it is, Cuma has a knack for mechanical and electrical things, something he’d taught himself in Turkey. But when he arrived at the resort, he was put in housekeeping. “I said I don’t want to do this.

They said if [a maintenance position] is available in a few weeks, they’d give it to me.” Weeks went by, and Cuma never moved to what he was initially hired for.

After being disciplined for taking a lunch break in the middle of his shift instead of waiting until 4:00 p.m., he decided that was enough for him. “My sponsor called me and said if I quit, my visa is canceled. They’re just trying to scare you.” There’s a 60-day maximum grace period to get a new job.

“I found a lawyer working in Delaware. He knows Turkish too, and he’s from Azerbaijan. He says you can change your status.” Cuma changed his work visa to a tourist visa, which is good for up to six months.

The opportunity to undertake more travel was irresistible to Cuma, and he headed to New Jersey. Then from New Jersey he went to Georgia. He tells me that traveling this way isn’t scary and it isn’t lonely. “I always find someone and join them. They have the same brain. The same thinking.”

Once in Georgia, Cuma got the itch to continue pursuing something he’d wanted to for a long time: a degree in engineering. “It kind of pushed me to come back to Wisconsin.” Looking to his younger years, that itch to tinker started in primary school, when Cuma created a voice-activated cradle that rocked when the baby started to cry (he was the fifth child of six with a younger sister, older brother, and three older sisters).

His parents always encouraged him in his science and engineering pursuits. In fact, it was to the point where Cuma’s dad told him that if he wanted to do something, he should just do it. The result was Cuma not always working on what his head teacher asked in secondary school; he was laser focused on his interests. If that didn’t pan out, he figured, “Worst case, I can go back to my village and live like a farmer.” The goal wasn’t to pass the class; it was to learn.

But now he needed a student visa if he wanted to move forward with attending a university, and the clock was ticking on Cuma’s tourist visa. “My visa only had

one month left. I applied for an exchange program visa. I would have to wait six months for approval. I was talking with this girl online, and I told her it was too late, so let’s go for coffee.’

“She said, ‘Are you sure this is it? How can I trust you?’ She was so scared.

“I said, ‘I’m not going to kill you, don’t worry.’

“We talked. We had coffee. Later, I was preparing to propose to her on her birthday. She was preparing to propose to me too. I heard from my friends. No! In our culture, only men can propose. I didn’t know here, girls also propose. When I proposed to her, she said, ‘I’m glad you didn’t kill me.’”

He’d found a person he could go on adventures with, and they’ve been doing just that ever since. When they went to Colorado, Cuma learned something about himself after reading a sign that said not to run if he encountered a bear. “No! I’m not used to seeing bears. I said to my wife, ‘I’m going to definitely run.’

“‘You’re going to leave me alone?’

“‘No, I’m saving your life. I’m running, and he’s going to chase me.’”

Cuma is in the process of getting his green card. Once he’s done with the interviews required by the government to determine the legitimacy of his marriage, he can get in-state tuition. That doesn’t mean the university leg of his journey is set in stone, but if Cuma wants it, I believe he’ll get it. He doesn’t seem too familiar with the idea

of quitting, but is very much persuaded by the flashes of opportunity sparked by inspiration.

Kyle Jacobson is lead writer and senior copy editor for Madison Essentials

Photographs provided by Cuma Ugur

Photograph by Barbara Wilson

Kyle Jacobson

ZacK Zdrale

by Chris Gargan

“A work of art does not answer questions, it provokes them; and its essential meaning is in the tension between their contradictory answers.“

Some literary scholars tell us that the least reliable interpreter of a text is the person responsible for its creation. When confronted with powerful, provocative images, it’s virtually instinctive to ask, “What’s the artist trying to tell me? How do the attributes and symbols resonate with my experience and knowledge?”

Gestures, objects, actions, and figural placement all conspire with history, memory, and emotion to elicit an understanding—an attempt to decode that which confronts us.

- Leonard Bernstein

This search for meaning is universal and enduring. Artists construct narratives and align iconography which reveal to themselves their identity, values, and spiritual and moral quests in a pictorial form that satisfies an internally carried mystery. Viewers who genuinely engage with the artist’s experience cannot but help to filter those images through their own nature, beliefs, and empirical development.

For many figurative painters throughout the history of Western art (American and European), a premium has been placed not merely on craft or fidelity of likeness, but, even more importantly, the artist must convey something of the personality, psychological force, and emotional conduct of the person portrayed. From hyperrealist painters, such as Jean Dominique Ingres, to protoabstractionists, like Paul Cézanne, we measure their success not just in their accuracy, but their ability to close the temporal gap which separates us from the subjects of their work.

One drift of American figurative realism has concentrated on the expression of physical torment, stress, exertion, and the consequent state of physical alienation. In paintings such as Thomas Eakins’ depleted boxer in Between the Rounds, complete with the thousandyard stare of detachment, perhaps foreseeing his impending loss, and the crouching fighter in Taking the Count, we witness the artist using the precision of posture to convey a moment of affecting experience, presaging a moment of truth. Likewise, George Bellows’ Stag at Sharkey’s and Dempsey and Firpo, depicting Dempsey being knocked from the ring, are examples of artists celebrating the physical limits of male action and aggression.

Zack Zdrale confronts us with paintings of powerful, aggressive, seemingly impassioned or angry men who are often alone, sometimes competing or cooperating with other men in obscure, ritualistic, or synchronized actions. Crouched, twisted, leaping, grasping, screaming, tortured bodies contorted by passions that are not defined, but appear signified without clear crystallization of meaning.

Zack is very much a painter of his time. He came from Neenah in the mid-90s to study at the University of Wisconsin–Madison. After briefly working for Wildwood Studios in Madison, an opportunity to restore frescoes in Austria fell through, and Zack decided to relocate to the West Coast. As the economy stumbled post 9/11, he took a number of low-paying jobs screen printing snowboards, bussing tables, and working for a doggy daycare business. When his now wife, McKenzie, relocated to San Francisco, Zack saw an opportunity to restart his artistic career by entering the animation program at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco.

Serendipitously for Zack, this was the moment when animation was transitioning from hand-drawn to digital production. Reconsidering his options once again, he happened to walk by the John Pence Gallery, renowned for its stable of realistic figurative artists. Immediately, he realized, “This is what I want to do! I don’t care how much ramen I have to eat.”

Transferring to fine arts painting, Zack found teachers and mentors who embraced his classical yearnings and sensibilities. Painters like Mark Tennant and William Whittaker exposed him to the practice of working from a limited palette (five or fewer colors) to build discipline utilizing grisaille (a full range of greys) to develop value and light control and painting from direct observation of the figure rather than relying on photographic resources. Gradually, his mature style began to emerge.

Zack’s figures have stepped out of a foundry, working bodies shaped and strengthened by demanding physical work. These are not men with hot house muscles grown in gyms without any purpose other than vanity and exhibition. The chunky, sculpted, masculine bodies create more opportunity for the exploration of light on form than an equivalent female body might offer. The gestures, often frozen incidents of extreme physical action, seem like moments in a proletarian ballet. Stripped to the waist and wearing denim work pants in lieu of the tightfitting leotards seen in traditional dance, his actors push and pull, strain against unseen forces, confront, cooperated, conform to abstract symbols and numbers, stand in awe or resignation, emit primal screams, and reach for the ineffable. Their physicality is enhanced by dramatic chiaroscuro lighting— descending or creeping darkness— and often violent sweeps of paint that obscure portions of the figure or physiognomy.

Zack’s work was recently included in a major art book entitled Disrupted Realism, by John Seed. Seed defines disrupted realism, saying that it is “made by artists who have deviated from the norms of realism.” And later, “It is a subjective approach … that favors perception over seeing and embraces subjectivity.”

What is inescapable in Zack’s work is the physical force or manner of his painting. Often using brushes with handles over two feet long, Zack applies the paint with a range of marks, from light, delicate, softly blended passages to slashes of impasto pigment that stand in relief to the surface. Not unlike his contemporaries, Jenny Saville and Odd Nerdrum, Zack invests his surface with an insistent physical presence that mimics the fleshiness of his subjects. This physicality echoes his belief “What is image without empathy?” while at the same time remaining detached from exegesis. “It should affect the viewer without programmatic intention.”

This fall, Zack started bringing his artistic philosophy to the students at the UW–Whitewater, where he now teaches drawing. It’s a continuation of a life that has taken no shortcuts to excellence. Zack says, “You must prove yourself as an artist every single time.”

Chris Gargan is a landscape artist and freelance writer working from his farm southwest of Verona. You can find his work at Abel Contemporary Gallery in Stoughton. He is seen here with his dog Tycho Brahe.

Photographs by Zack Zdrale.

Chris Gargan

Photograph by Larassa Kabel

Gifting Memories

Through Travel

by Anne Sayers

Memories, though intangible, are some of the most rewarding gifts to give. Electronics become outdated; clothes go out of fashion; gift cards run out of value; but traveling with family, friends, or as a solo adventure is enriching and unforgettable. The thrilling activities, mouthwatering food, and awe-inspiring scenery lead to long-lasting memories— memories to be shared, relived, and cherished.

This holiday season, consider the gift of travel. Whether the loved ones on your list seek a day trip or weeklong adventure, there are plenty of opportunities to explore right here in Wisconsin.

State Park Pass for Year-Round Adventures

At a cost of less than $30, an admission sticker can be used to discover a favorite

state park to visit month after month as the seasons unfold. Or put miles on the odometer by touring the state, checking off state parks as you go.

An annual pass to the Wisconsin State Park System is more than just a sticker on the windshield; it’s an invitation to discover the unexpected. Admission stickers grant entry for the year into all 49 state parks, covering nearly 156,000 acres of land which caters to a wide cross-section of interests.

For the rockhound, the billion-year-old hill at Rib Mountain State Park—one of earth’s oldest geological formations— and its wide vistas of the Wausau area are a thrill. At Wyalusing State Park, a dramatic overlook of the confluence of the Wisconsin and Mississippi Rivers is a picturesque backdrop for spotting

the more than 300 species of birds that nest in or migrate through Wisconsin. For sunset seekers, the 60-foot-high, fully accessible Eagle Tower in Door County’s Peninsula State Park elevates folks of all abilities to breathtaking views.

Spend Winter Outdoors with a Ski Hill Season Pass

There’s no need to head west for highquality skiing and snowboarding. Wisconsin is home to 21 ski resorts spread throughout the state. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, you’re sure to find runs to fit your speed, and a season pass maximizes your time on the slopes.

Just 20 miles outside of Madison, Tyrol Basin features 22 ski runs, freestyle terrain parks, a tubing hill, and a

charming chalet with food and drinks to warm up after a day of skiing.

Return regularly to the hill to master different runs, make new friends, and discover the joy and beauty of a Wisconsin winter. Bonus for parents with young kids: children under age five are eligible for a free season pass, making it a cost-effective option for the whole family to stay active and busy.

Tyrol Basin season passholders also receive perks at other partner ski hills. Show the season pass at Camp 10 Ski Area outside Rhinelander and Sunburst Ski Hill in Kewaskum and get 50 percent off a lift ticket.

Appreciate the Arts in Milwaukee

For the arts lover in your life, a membership to the Milwaukee Art Museum is a passport to Milwaukee’s creative, cultural, and culinary scene.

What’s inside the museum is as stunning as the outside of this soaring structure. The museum hosts a diverse collection

of more than 32,000 paintings, sculptures, textiles, drawings, and other artwork. Annual memberships include free admission, previews of upcoming exhibits, access to exclusive programming, and much more.

And the museum collaborates with local businesses to give members exclusive deals. Stay in Milwaukee for the weekend with a special rate at the Drury Plaza Hotel, a historically renovated hotel in the heart of downtown. Then grab a pint and dinner at Company Brewing, where museum members receive a discount on savory burgers and picture-worthy brunch dishes.

Gain Perspective on History

History buffs will appreciate an annual membership to the Wisconsin Historical Society, which provides free admission to the 12 sites maintained by the society.

In Eagle, experience sights and sounds of the past at Old World Wisconsin. The 60 restored historic structures—relocated from places across Wisconsin— costumed staff and hands-on activities tell stories about life from the 1840s to 1910s. The grounds include recreations of European immigrant homesteads, a historically inspired brewhouse producing authentic recipes, and a main street where the clang of the blacksmith rings loud.

Or use a Wisconsin Historical Society membership for a trip to Prairie du Chien’s Villa Louis, a beautifully preserved Victorian-era mansion. Built in 1871, this grand estate is a National Historic Landmark and was home to one of Wisconsin’s most prominent families. The 25-acre site has over a dozen historic structures. It’s also the location of the only battle fought in Wisconsin during the War of 1812.

Tour the State by Rail or Water

With three national scenic byways, including the All-American-designated Wisconsin Great River Road, and dozens of rustic roads, it’s tough to beat a Wisconsin road trip. But if you’re looking to gift something a little more unexpected, riding the rails and the waves will certainly do the trick.

In Trego, the Wisconsin Great Northern Railroad guides passengers through

lush forests of the Northwoods. There are rides for the whole family to eat pizza and meet Santa, for couples to make romantic getaways and spend the night aboard the train, and for friends to connect over wine and cheese.

To gift a water excursion, book a cruise on the La Crosse Queen for brunch, dinner, and sightseeing on the Upper Mississippi River. This replica paddlewheel riverboat passes dramatic bluffs, local wildlife, and historical sites.

Another great option is to set off on a voyage with St. Croix River Cruises in Hudson. These double-decker boats tour the scenic St. Croix River, separating Wisconsin from Minnesota. A variety of cruise options offer general sightseeing, onboard comedy and theatre, fall color tours, and holiday celebrations. TravelWisconsin.com stands at the ready to help. Here’s to finding the perfect gift for making shared memories.

Anne Sayers

Anne Sayers is the secretary-designee at Wisconsin Department of Tourism.

Photographs provided by Travel Wisconsin

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Card!

Question:

“Which local restaurateur teamed up with Delta Beer Lab to create Sal’s Pale Ale?”

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Enter by submitting your answer to the above question online at madisonessentials.com or by mail with your name, mailing address, phone number, and email to: Madison Essentials c/o Towns & Associates, Inc. PO Box 174 Baraboo, WI 53913-0174

All entries with the correct answer will be entered into a drawing. Contest deadline is December 4, 2022.

Winners

Thank you to everyone who entered our previous contest. The answer to the question “What ingredients are in The Deliciouser’s Antica spice blend?” is nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and black pepper.

An Old Sugar Distillery gift card was sent to our winner, Deb Nies of Waunakee, WI.