Live Hoi An Magazine - Issue 13 by Spot Design HCMC

Activities . Art . Dining . Entertainment . Hotels . Shopping . Spas

Nhà Xuất Bản Tổng Hợp Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh

Contents Preface: Hoi An Essential Information: Sam’s Good Business List:

2 12 20,21

Features Beaches in Vietnam: Beach Snacks: It’s A Sign: A Titanic Year in Vietnam: Young Lovers: Art Fashion: Photo Essay:

24-31 32, 33 34-37 38-40 41 42-45 50-54

Maps Hoi An Old Quarter Cua Dai An Bang Coastal Road

56,57 60,61 64,65 68

Sections Golf: Activities: Dining: Shopping: Health & Wellness: Family: Travel:

70-73 74-78 82-103 106-113 116-120 122,123 126-137

Around Hoi An:

124,125

Da Nang:

138-143

Business Directory:

144-154

Important Contacts:

156

Feature Your Business in Live Hoi An • The only FREE Monthly Published Map & Events Listings in Hoi An • The only locally-run FREE ENGLISH MAGAZINE in the Hoi An / Da Nang region aimed at tourists • 10,000 maps distributed per month and 7,000 magazines per quarter • Free listings and icon on the map with all advertising Contact Sales & Marketing: Neil: 01289 473124 or our Office 0510 392 0889

Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: +84 510 3927 040 - Fax: +84 510 3927 041 www.victoriahotels-asia.com

We distribute to over 100 outlets! Find copies of Live Hoi An at: Al Fresco’s, avAna, Banyan, Before N Now, Cargo Club, Cham Island Dive Bar, Da Nang Airport, Danang Golf Club Dingo Deli, Green Chili, Green Mango, Hot Chili, Hyatt Regency Danang, JBC, La Plage, Life Heritage Resort, Lotus Jewellery, Montgomerie Links, Morning Glory, Palmarosa, Soul Kitchen, STREETS, Tam Tam, Victoria Hotel, Waterfront, White Marble, Yaly, Zippang … to name just a few. www.livehoian.com

Preface As this edition of the magazine hits the press summer is well and truly upon us. Temperatures have been soaring to uncomfortable heights and the beach is the place to be; practically the only place offering a breeze and the opportunity to cool down with a dip in the sea (thankfully, Hoi An’s main beaches are deeper than those typical of Southeast Asian waters and you can get proper reprieve). For information on the surrounding coastline don’t miss the main beach feature this issue. We hope you take the opportunity to visit or enjoy some of our recommendations this edition. If you are visiting towards the end of our dry season and are heading south for some sunshine or north for some exploring, check our onward travel feature for inspiration. Also, for monthly events don’t forget to pick up the free Live Hoi An map which lists what’s happening locally as well as discounts and business promotions in the area. There are plenty of cultural celebrations in season before the rain kicks in too – and if you’re lucky to be here for a full moon festival during summer, make your way to An Bang beach before the old town for the best vantage point of that celestial orb in the sky! Center Viet Nam Advertising & Marketing Co.,Ltd 36 Nguyễn Công Trứ, Tan An Ward, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province, Viet Nam Tel: 0510 3920889 Fax: 0510 3920889 info@livehoian.com www.livehoian.com CEO, Editorial and Sales Director: Amy Morison Office Manager: Nguyen Thi Van Sales Manager: Neil Fraser Associate Editor: Caroline Mills Business Development Manager: Phung Anh Kiet Website Content Manager: Emma Bolton Design: Spot Design – www.spotdesign.com.vn Photographer: Phuong Anh Nguyen Contributors: Neville Dean and Phil Mellifont Cover photo by Amy Morison

LIVE HOI AN - (Song ngữ) Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Nguyễn Thị Thanh Hương Biên tập: Tường Minh. Sửa bản in: Tường Khánh In 7,000 cuốn, khổ 10x20cm tại Công ty in Trần Phú, 71-75 Hai Bà Trưng, Q. 1, TP. Hồ Chí Minh Số đăng ký kế hoạch xuất bản: 79-12/CXB/377-04/THTPHCM Cục xuất bản ký ngày 08 tháng 03 năm 2012 In xong và nộp lưu chiểu tháng 03 năm 2012

Travel

Culinary CARGO CLUB

creations MORNING GLORY by Ms. Vy MERMAID restaurant-hoian.com

Ms Tuong’s Tailormade Shoes and Clothes:

“World class des igns at local prices” Tuong Cloth Shop Highly regarded as one of the best tailors in town, Ms Tuong is a third generation tailor with over 14 years personal experience in catering to foreigners. She is more concerned with making her customers happy than profits – and reputation in Hoi An certainly goes a long way. Ms Tuong is renowned for her high quality materials, efficiency and sewing techniques. “The guest must be happy. I will do everything to ensure that the clothes they ordered are made exactly how they want and will compensate them with new clothes if they are not 100% satisfied. I’ll also return any deposit made if the guest are still not happy with the clothes after the final fit,” says Ms Tuong.

Shoe Shop 09 For funky sneakers, stylish work shoes, heels, brogues or sandals – Shoe Shop 09 has every design imaginable. Or you give them your own design, and it will be tailor-made. Owned by the charismatic Ms Tuong, Shop 09 is one of the most established shoemakers in Hoi An. Her business is over 12 years old and she offers the most competitive prices in town. Ms Tuong shoemakers’ have studied European techniques in shoemaking so you can be assured that every item is made to international standards. Unlike other shoe shops where the products may last only one or two wears, Ms Tuong only uses 100% leather and the finest quality materials. She also sells a wide range of top quality leather handbags and jackets. Her friendly English-speaking staff can help you create your ideal pair of shoes for a mere fraction of what you would ever pay back home!

Ms Tuong imports fabrics from India, Italy and the US, as well as using regionally produced silks and cottons. She has served many international guests who continue to return year after year or re-order through her when in town or via email.

Shoe Shop 09 & Tuong Cloth Shop: 65-67 Tran Hung Dao St. - 0510 386 3573 - tuong2002@hotmail.com

Hoi An Essential Hoi An is a place rooted in tradition and history. Its past is a resplendent tapestry of arts and culture having served as a key trading port and supplier of fine crafts for the imperial city of Hue. Contemporary Hoi An still thrives as a very arts-oriented community and as a town with many cultural experiences on offer, including gourmet restaurant and luxury relaxation options which are continually evolving as more visitors are attracted to the area. As a visitor, here are some essential guidelines on the town’s unique features, rules and etiquette. What you should know: • Every month on the 14th day of the lunar calendar (which is the same as the full moon), the townspeople show respect and honour to their history and ancestors. In the old quarter only pedestrians are allowed, (no motorbikes or bicycles permitted at all) until after 9:30pm. Also, fluorescent lighting is prohibited and instead you will see many lanterns adorning the shop fronts and warming the streets. Check our calendar to note the date of this monthly event. • During the normal working week there are certain times when you cannot ride a motorized vehicle during these hours into the old quarter. These are: - 9am-11:30am - 2pm-5pm - 6:30-9:30pm • When visiting local attractions, be respectful, particularly if you are entering a religious site. Don’t wear tight-fitting or revealing clothes. It is also considered rude to speak loudly, laugh or be openly affectionate. Quiet appreciation is the key – and locals will appreciate you for it. • Often in the old town you will be approached by children selling small souvenirs or postcards. It may be difficult to ignore them but unfortunately when you buy from street kids it’s not the best way to help them. Live Hoi An recommends a number of organizations instead (see Sam’s Good Business List) that provide for underprivileged children to ensure your money is getting channeled through a legitimate organization to the right people the right way. • Hoi An has plenty of character and history especially in the old quarter with many attractions and places to visit. You can buy a one day ticket from Song Hoai Square, follow your free map and you can choose 5 of the 18 sightseeing places in Hoi An. The ticket costs 90,000 VND and is valid for 24 hours. Attractions include the Japanese Covered Bridge, Tran Family Chapel, Chuc Thanh Pagoda, Handicraft Workshop, Tan Ky House, Museum of Trading and Ceramics plus more museums, halls and old houses. Visit www.hoianworldheritage.org.vn for more information.

ool mixes of drinks and tunes. Funky, provocative art. Indie music. Vibrant, social atmosphere. Before and Now is Hoi Anâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original and most happening hangout. Come make friends, be merry, play or dine. Fine Italian cuisine, exquisite desserts and local specialties are on the menu. Also, extensive wine and cocktail lists with daily promotions (happy hour 6pm-12am). Free pool, foosal and live satellite sports!

51 Le Loi - 0510 3910 599 - wwwbeforennow.com

SAM'S LIST- Good Businesses in Hoi An & Danang

Ways to get involved...

Organisations NAME Foundation East Meets West Global Village

FOCUS

WEBSITE

BUY SOMETHING

VOLUNTEER

GIVE MONEY TAX DEDUCTION

Children

Check website

Yes

AU, US

Girls/

www.childrenseducationfoundation.org.au

Long term, self funded volunteers

Yes

Children

www.eastmeetswest.org

Check website

Yes

US UK/ US

Sponsorship

Children & Families

Minimum 3 weeks for Doctors/nurse Specialists in disability/ special education

Children

www.kianh.org.uk

Check website

Yes

Children

www.globalvolunteernetwork.org /vietnam/

Check website

Yes

Web/ Blog

Healthcare

Green Apple Website Environment

www.greenapplehoian.com

Check website

Teach Children to swim STEC Smart Tutoring Children/ Education Golden Turtle Teach Children Swim Club to swim

www.swimvietnam.com

Activities

Foundations

CHIA (Children's Hope In Action)

Check website/ Swim instructors

Global Volunteer Network

Restaurants

Swim Vietnam

Bread of Life

Disabled Adults

Co Dam Vegetarian Restaurant

Health/ Environment

Blue Dragon

Children

Sponsorship 596 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoi An

Long term/ Check website Email: goldenturtles wimclub@gmail.com

www.breadoďŹ&#x201A;ifedanang.com

Restaurant: 12 Le Hong Phong St, Danang

Check website

www.streetkidsinvietnam.com

Restaurant: 71/20 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoi An Restaurant: 46 Bach Dang St, Hoi An Restaurant: 17 Le Loi St, Long term only Hoi An

Yes

US, AUS

Yes

Online Store

Yes

www.stecvn.weebly.com Check our Facebook page

Training/ Streets International Hospitality Disadvantaged Youth www.streetsinternational.org The Little Feet Fair Trade/ www.thelittlefeetcompany.co.uk Company Children

Shopping

Environment Reaching Out

Disabled Adults

Smile House

Disabled Adults

Lifestart Foundation Children & Women Papaya T Shirts

Children

Yes

www.reachingoutvietnam.com

www.lifestartfoundation.org.au www.papaya-tshirt.com www.poussieresdevie.org

Eco Chic Boutique: 3 Chau Thuong Van St, Hoi An Handicrafts: 103 Nguyen Check website Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Handicrafts: 126 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Handicrafts: 77 Phan Check website Chau Trinh St, Hoi An 1 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, 627 Hai Ba Trung

Yes

Reaching Out:

Crafting Abilities To Overcome Disabilities At 15 years old, Le Nguyen Binh was confined to a wheelchair. Not long after he realized it would be his life’s mission to partner with others who had disabilities and help them to become productive citizens; to live selfsufficiently, with pride and confidence. In 2000, Binh and his wife Mai Thi Kim Quyen founded Reaching Out – a beautiful boutique for high quality, handmade Vietnamese crafts made by differently-abled artisans. What makes Reaching Out unique is that visitors have the opportunity to not only buy a gift that helps empower those who work there, but to have an interactive experience that will give them a real insight into how traditional arts and handicrafts are made. Reasons To Visit Reaching Out – SHOP

LEARN

High-quality, handmade, uniquely Vietnamese gifts. Fixed prices. Friendly, relaxed atmosphere (no hard-selling!). Buy from a social enterprise based on the principles of Fair Trade – fair wages, equality, fair prices eco-friendly, sustainable products, clean and safe working conditions. A percentage of profits goes back into the training of disabled persons. Customized gifts also available.

Be part of the experience. You are welcome to spend time with the artisans in the workshop. Even learn how to make Vietnamese crafts with set workshop lessons such as lacquer painting and silk printing. SHARE Sponsor a trainee, volunteer, provide vocational training and offer new product ideas. The platform of Reaching Out is built upon communication and skill building.

103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St- 0510 3910 168 - info@reachingoutvn.com www.reachingoutvietnam.com

Sunkissed in Vietnam:

Riding that Summer Wave Amy Morison

Vietnam is a country better known for its history and culture than its wondrous coastal landscapes although I would argue it possesses the most scenic North-toSouth ocean road routes to be found in Southeast Asia. While the focus for this article is on the central coast around Hoi An, it is worth mentioning that for true adventurists, one could quite literally drive up (or down) the undeveloped and newly built coastal roads that connect the shoreline all the way from Hue to the Vinh Moc tunnels in Quang Binh. It is one of the most phenomenal riding (or driving) experiences you could have – perfectly deserted stretches of sand, placid turquoise waters and barely a soul in sight! However, the sunkissed shores of the central coast have strong appeal and while one may think of the coast between Hoi An and Da Nang and even to Hue as a messy canvass of industrious 5-star development, if you take the time, you can find some truly gorgeous spots to splash about and get a tan. These places deserve just as much attention as the popular shores of Phuket and Bali but fortunately they have not received it yet, allowing us to avoid the crowds and bathe in some of the local culture too. Add in that inimitable sense for hospitality renowned among the Vietnamese of the centre and you have the ingredients for an extraordinary seaside holiday.

So, you’ve experienced some of the famed beaches of Thailand, had an excursion to Bali, possibly even soaked up the sun on an east coast island in Malaysia (insert slogan “Truly Asia”). But a seaside sojourn in Vietnam’s centre? Well, there are a plethora of swimmingly good opportunities. This issue comes out at the height of summer; so what better time to dive in then now? After all, the locals are always saying, “We have the best beaches in Vietnam” – unfortunately the word “beaches” often comes out sounding more like the definition for a group of female canines than an idyllic sandy shore.

In Hoi An

Cham Islands

There are two main beaches in Hoi An – Cua Dai and An Bang. Expats are biased towards An Bang, which bears the title “The local’s beach” (although the phrase is getting a little passé). Why is An Bang special? In a word: community. The relationship between the Vietnamese restaurateurs and foreigners is unique, and people support and appreciate each other, rather than compete. The beach has regular clean-ups (thanks to the efforts of local businesses and the Green Apple organization www.greenapplehoian.com), there is an eclectic range of dining options (compared with the standard seafood joints of Cua Dai) and far fewer vendors (in fact, those that do sell are often fondly encouraged by expats – they don’t overstep or interrupt to the point of frustration). And importantly, a lot of work has been put into setting up an An Bang lifesaving foundation for the community to prevent people from drowning.

In reality there is only one island (Hon Lao) that you can legally explore and stay on in this group of exquisitely preserved islets off the coast of Hoi An. Of course there are snorkelling and diving day trips that you can organize with ease – both the reputable Blue Coral and Cham Island Diving companies even offer overnight camping – but you could get there by yourself and do things a little differently. You can take the local boat which leaves at 07.30am from the Hoi An ferry dock to Bai Lang and returns at 3pm. It costs 20,000VND for locals but apparently 100,000VND for foreigners each way.

But if you’re looking for a bit of luxury away from any kind of form of social interaction (tourists, expats or otherwise) – a hidden bit of private beach paradise can be found betwixt the Sunrise and Golden Sands resorts. Due to the embankments on either side, this small, protected cove offers both lovely sunbathing opportunities and good bodysurfing or boogie board conditions. The Casuarina pine reserve that backs onto the concealed beach also offers up prime shaded picnic ground. Visitors to Sunrise resort have access to this private beach if they choose to dine at the resort and spend the day there or venture in as a guest member of the health and fitness club.

Bai Chong Beach is the most impressive beach on the Hon Lao island and is easily accessible from the main harbour. It’s about a 20 minute walk up the hill to the right of the village. The trek is hard work, but the view makes it worthwhile (you overlook some simply dazzling bays that are only accessible by boat and with permission from officials). It’s best not to go on weekends unless you want a ‘local’ experience – as that’s when the islanders flock there. The beach itself is reached by walking down some rickety old steps. Once you’re there though it’s squeaky sand heaven, with a few great seafood restaurants and excellent swimming and snorkeling conditions. Bai Chong is where the Cham Island Diving company chooses for its overnight trips – decent tents, hammocks, snorkel gear and Alex Garland-style beach standards await for approximately 1,600,000VND per person. Another pleasant alternative and one that helps gives back to the local community is to book a trip with the Bai Huong homestay. The Blue Coral company offers a 2 day tour which includes transport, homestay accommodation with a local family (which helps support schooling for kids), a trek with a native guide, fabulous snorkeling and swimming options as well as the chance to interact with the community (such as cooking, fishing, learning basket boat techniques ,language exchange etc etc) for 1,500,000VND per person. You can book with the Blue Coral office and find out more regarding the homestay location and experience at www.homestaybaihuong.com.

North Towards Hue: Lang Co

Da Nang and Son Tra There are a number of popular beach haunts in Da Nang (one of the most obvious being the former R&R site for American soldiers during the war) but I would say that Non Nuoc is the best. Stretching from Sandy Beach Resort down past Marble Mountains and to the far north side of the Hyatt Regency Resort & Spa, you can find heavenly swimming conditions here without crowds. If you don’t have a motorbike to explore and find a special spot on your own accord, I’d suggest taking advantage of the Hyatt’s day pass (300,000VND per person) – you can use their pool facilities but more importantly you will have access to the best bit of the Non Nuoc beach. The sand is silky soft pristine and the water as inviting as a Conde Nast tropical beach advert. Further towards the city centre is the main and busy beach of My Khe – which is deserted during the day but packed late afternoon. If you’re seeking Robinson Crusoe kind of aquatic shallows, drive further out to Son Tra peninsular. You could opt to dine at Son Tra resort and use their private beach, or you could simply drive past the Lady Buddha until you see a dirt road on the right hand side. This will you bring you down to a cliff restaurant and gorgeous little bay and beach. The restaurant serves up good nosh and you are in fact obliged to eat there if you want to swim at the beach – but it is cheap and the beach absolutely worth it. For those with a bold disposition you could continue over the cap of Son Tra on the hairy and extremely steep road to the other side. It is peppered with little beaches and bays and there will soon be a better road to the newly built Intercontinental. My advice is to go with a sense of piratey adventure and explore on your own – just make sure your bike has fullyfunctional brakes.

If you’re planning a trip to Hue then you will undoubtedly pass through Lang Co – a seaside town that is rather famous in these here parts. Lang Co bay was recently voted as one of the world’s most beautiful bays. Its ‘S’ shape also gives you the first glimpse of the sun rising in Vietnam. Lang Co has both beaches and one of the region’s largest lagoons for swimming. It is also home to some of the best oyster farming. There is a main bay and beach which is easy to find – and there are a number of accommodation options for all budgets – but just 10 kilometres up from Lang Co you can also find a completely secret bay called Can Bay. This crescent-shaped bay has talcum powdery sand and clear, turquoise waters. The small Vietnamese restaurant there has some of the best tiger prawns and lobster you could taste (and at a more 900,000VND per kilo). To access the beach you go down a little dirt track that is exactly 10kms north of main Lang Co and is very easy to find. No tourists go there, it's pretty much even a secret to the locals. Think picture perfect beach and a jungle clad back drop with superb food and no disturbances except for the sounds of wildlife.

South of the Center Surprisingly off the tourist trail, Quy Nhon is one of the country’s most idyllic beach towns. White powder sands, azure waters and a quiet, slow-paced atmosphere make this township a truly worthwhile seaside destination about 4 hours drive south of Hoi An. The main municipal beach offers backpacker and small hotel accommodation, while further south you will find the stunning and salubrious private beach of Life Resort (Bai Dai). For those on a budget (and unwilling to pay steep prices for private beach time) travel one kilometer further and you will discover the beautiful white-sand beach of Bai Bau. If you’re traveling from North to South, then Quy Nhon is a must stop-over before reaching the popular and bustling beaches of Nha Trang. Likewise, a visit to the barely known coastal town of Tuy Hoa is highly recommended. Although void of high end hotel options, the broad golden sand beach makes for an enjoyable day or overnight trip (there are a few humble yet clean hotel options). Thinking of going to Nha Trang? We recommend the isolated, magical Jungle Beach – you can read all about it in our Travel section. Special thanks to Lodo from Cham Island Diving, Steve and Vanessa from Blue Coral Dive Centre, Mark Wyndham from Hoi An Motorbike Adventures and Neil Fraser – on behalf of Looking Glass Jeep Tours – for their insider’s insight which helped me write this feature.

Beach Snacking:

The Delicacies of An Bang Neville Dean

Early morning and late afternoon

during summer months the locals’ migration to the beach is a daily ritual – avoiding any contact with solar rays so as not achieve the tan other nationalities find so attractive. It appears somewhat contradictory these figure-proud people who are so happy to wear skin-tight clothes in town, now at the beach, shy away from any figure revealing swimming costumes opting in favour of shorts and t-shirts for swimming.

In the evening locals gather on the beach sitting on mats to enjoy all manner of food. You’ll witness this mostly at An Bang beach in Hoi An, where the local restaurateurs don’t seem to mind about the dispersion of hawker style vendors. Food purchased from beachside vendors includes ice cream, donuts, tofu and sweet ginger sauce (with a very similar consistency to crème caramel) and banh mi cha – baguettes topped with sausage meat then grilled. Foods bought from home include sticky rice and salads plus chicken, fish and meats which are grilled on the beach on charcoal braziers. This beach food ritual is repeated every evening throughout the warm weather months with the beach set-up happening from early afternoon in preparation for the late afternoon hordes. There is one food however that typifies Vietnamese beach food more than any other - banh trang – crispy rice cracker with sesame seeds purchased from vendors. Each evening vendors turn up at the beach with square sheets of freshly grilled stacks of banh trang. At the beach these square sheets are cut into pizza-shape triangles. Banh trang is both inexpensive

and versatile and the locals have devised a seemingly endless ways of enjoying it as a snack - or simply as a accompaniment to a cold beer. One popular way is simply dipping the banh trang in soy sauce mixed with fresh chillies or with chillie sauce (tương ớt). Another - brushing with shrimp paste (mắm ruốc) or chilli sauce then grilling over hot charcoal. Some people just moisten the banh trang and sprinkle with shredded beef jerky (tương bò khô ) then grill. Yet another method is to soften the banh trang with a moist cloth, top with toasted shallot and jerky, sprinkle with lemongrass, roll then grill. Banh trang can also be used in or on top of a salad providing both the crunch and the sesame seed flavour. Most simply it can be enjoyed with boiled quail eggs also supplied by the beach vendors, particularly one known affectionately as ‘Eggy’ who also has cerebral palsy. Eggy’s catchphrase to foreigners is often “egg you” – you can’t not appreciate that kind of priceless humour. There is also no limit as to how to enjoy banh trang – it is limited only by imagination. It is the unsung Vietnamese beach staple. Make sure you venture down to An Bang of a late afternoon (around 5) to witness the beautiful community atmosphere that is so unique to this country, or perhaps just to this town – and this particular beach. Neville Dean is the founder and guide for The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Food Tour –a culinary tour that explores Hoi An’s most famous dishes, from street food snacks to celebratory meals. You can find out more at www.tasteofhoian.com

It’s a sign (You’re in vietnam) Amy Morison

It’s hardly uncommon to come across

a t-shirt or a sign in this part of the world that communicates something far from whatever the wearer, or proprietor, has intended in English. I had a housekeeper in Thailand who once came to my apartment in a shirt that read ‘I have a right to masturbate’ in bold letters on the front. I thought of explaining in Thai what this phrase meant, but the entailing loss of face might have caused her to resign. Besides, I quietly thought to myself, ‘Sister should wear a shirt like that with pride’, and grinned benignly as she applied herself to the week’s washing.

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There’s a whole Facebook paged entitled ‘Another Side of Vietnam’ dedicated to posting amusing signs, t-shirts and scenarios in Vietnam and I must give the site credit for all of these images. I hope that none of the published content offends anyone, it certainly is not intended to do so – it’s just a humourous and harmless collection of random, misguided signs! Thanks to all the ‘Another Side..’ contributors.

T itanic

A Year in Vietnam Phil Mellifont

This year marks a century since the ill fated maiden voyage of the now infamous passenger liner. It might not seem a relevant subject for an article about Vietnam – but actually the 1997 movie and the Celine Dion song that accompanied it are both favourites and very well known in Vietnam. American movies feature far less than Chinese or Korean ones in Vietnam, but when it comes to Titanic, the movie and the theme song are both well loved by many Vietnamese. Why? Because the love story depicted in the movie is actually a Vietnamese story. ‘Girl loves the charming and adventurous poor boy but the family wants her to marry the rich boy with the established family credentials’. This is a story that plays out commonly in Vietnam even today.

It’s rarely a simple case of ‘boy meets girl’ in Vietnam, very often it’s a team sport with the families – parents and grandparents carrying weighty opinions, and whose consent is a definite requirement. To complicate things further, many impending mothers-in-law will consult a fortune teller to gain an insight into which beau offers the better future for the young maiden. Consequently it’s no surprise that many Vietnamese songs carry the theme ‘you are the one I love but we can’t be together’ – this is a theme etched indelibly in the fabric of Vietnam. Vietnamese are also great believers in ghosts. Talk to any Vietnamese person and the conversation will get a little serious regarding the subject of ghosts. It’s not uncommon for even modern pop songs to have a ghostly theme –the boyfriend dies – but in his ghostly state he follows the girl and is unhappy when she meets a new boy and he wishes it could be him. Watch any MTV style Vietnamese pop show and in due course you’ll likely see a music clip with such a theme, you won’t understand the lyrics but you’ll know what it’s about because the deceased boyfriend is always displayed in a video half tone, invisible to the other characters but is still a prominent part in the clip. So in a way, like the Titanic movie, it’s a Vietnamese story where the one you love dies prematurely. Sadly the Vietnamese have had much experience coping with the loss of loved ones with a history where war is written on almost every page.

38 Vietnam has a fascinating culture – nothing like the culture of any other country, and whilst Vietnam changes everyday, some things never change. So when you’re travelling in Vietnam don’t presume that the Vietnamese you speak to act, think and behave the same as you, they most likely do not. If you’re lucky enough to have the time to spend with a local, long enough for them to open up and speak frankly, and if you’re open to it, they may share some of their life and thoughts with you, but take it slowly and assume nothing. Vietnam is an upside down world where people think as differently as it seems humanly possible. As the narrator says in another great movie ‘The Quiet American’- “You learn a lot about Vietnam in a short time – the rest has to be lived”

Two Young Lovers (short translation of a Vietnamese folk tale)

Two young lovers were sitting, talking... probably perched on a Honda Wave motorcycleShe said: “How much do you love me?” He said: “Four days” She said: “Only Four days?” He said: “I love you a Spring Day, an Autumn Day, a Summer day and a Winter day” She said: “Oh that’s too much. I want you to love me less” He said: “OK I love you three days” She said: “Only three days?” He said: “Yes I love you Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow” She said: “Oh that’s everyday – that’s too much, I want you to love me less” He said: “OK I love you two days” She said: “Only two days?” He said: “Yes I love you on an odd day and an even day” She said: “Oh that’s everyday – that’s too much, I want you to love me less” He said: “OK I love you only one day” She said: “Only one day?” He said: “Yes I love you only one day- the day, every day I’m alive”.

Phil Mellifont is an Australian who lives in Hoi An and is married to Ms Mung, owner of Lotus Jewellery at 82 Tran Phu and 53A le Loi.

Human Canvasses:

Chilli’s

Art Fashion

Amy Morison, photos by Nguyen Phuong Anh

“Some people love to

draw or paint; for me, a canvass is the human body,” says Le Thu Thuy, known better locally by her nickname ‘Chilli’. This young Hanoi-born artist is the founder of Make Up Hoi An – a new business offering commercial and professional make up services to everything from fashion and weddings to extreme body art. Chilli moved down to Hoi An this year on a temporary basis but soon fell in love with the town (and her new husband, Alex). Her effervescent personality fits in well with the Hoi An vibe and she’s quickly made many friends here (maybe a few due to her vast selection of cosmetics!). Her passion for make up artistry stems from a background in creative arts and she certainly sees it as a form of art. Having studied at the Hanoi College of Arts she discovered that she could diversify her skills into other areas such as body art and make up.

“With the obvious increase in tourism, weddings and professional events in Hoi An it struck me that this city would be the ideal place for me to develop a cosmetic business. There is an also emergence of fashion boutiques who need professional photo shoots to be catered for.” In her work, Chilli wishes to display various make up styles and concepts that are applicable to all skin tones and could be applicable to any event. Even if it’s teaching people about the products and methods they can use in order to apply their own make up in a professional looking manner. Chilli personally uses premium and ethical products such as MAC, Lancome and L’Occitane. She prefers a personal approach and feel to her work so would rather work on-site or in a home environment as opposed to a clinical studio. She is adept at many styles – from fashion to weddings to extreme body art – and recently did the make up for a Hot Chili fashion brand shoot in Hoi An (many of which are pictured in this profile article). If you’re interested in Chilli’s make up services, you can contact her via mobile: 0904444126 or email: makeuphoian@gmail.com

While Hoi An is renowned for its arts and crafts, the explosion of tourism over the last decade has also seen a rise in stores selling items almost identical from one place to the next. Finding a store that sells unique handmade items of local design and creation is not easy. Lotus Jewellery is one such establishment – it literally is a gem of a store where customers are met with a treasure trove of fine, locally-made, hand-crafted jewellery and unique pieces collected from across Asia. Founded and owned by Ms NguyễnThị Mẫn (call her Ms Mung), Lotus Jewellery is located beside the Museum of Trade Ceramics at 82 Tran Phu street in the old quarter. Using only pure silver and genuine Asian jewels, freshwater pearls and shells, the collections are varied but mostly draw on ethnic or natural inspirations. While Ms Mung is meticulous about the design and crafting of each piece, the atmosphere at the shop is relaxed and inviting. For customers, it is often a refreshing experience to walk into one of the Lotus shops and not have to worry about haggling or negotiating on price. The prices are fixed and fair. Also, the brand is a recognized and trusted one, known for its consistency in providing high quality products. Pop into her ‘jewel’ of a store during your stay – it is by far the most beautiful jewellery shop in all of Hoi An.

www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com

Two locations: 82 Tran Phu & 53A Le Loi Hoi An, Vietnam - Tel: +84 0510 3917 889

Photos by Etienne Bossot

Catch of The Day

by Etienne Bossot All photos by Etienne Bossot, founder of the Hoi An Photo Tour - find out more www.hoianphototour.com

43I

PHIEN BA

TRUNG

NGUYEN

CHAU

Ancient well

40 37

THAI

33 46 14

39 34

HOC

51 47

20 20



Pedestrians & cyclists only at certain times of the day

Shopping 33. Art House Vietnam 34. avAna & Chain of Life 35. Dung Tailor 36. Hot Chili 37. Ki-nu

BOI

CHAU

Y HIE DUU

434744

CAM NAM

PHAN

49 46

12 11

Travel Agents 52. Go Travel Vietnam

H I A BEACDA CUDAI TO CUA

EN Y NGUYDU NGUYEN

CUA DAI

38. Long Vy Lanterns 39-40. Lotus Jewellery Local Food 41. Metiseko 42. Moon River Tailor 43. Papaya 44. Reaching Out 45. Shoe Shop 09 46. Song Shop 47. The First Shoe Shop 48. Water Lily Jewellery 49-50-51. Yaly

HOAI RIVER

H DDAANNGG ACCH BBA

MARKET MARKET

Health and Wellness 28. Aly Spa 29. Na Spa 30. Palmarosa 31. Su Bi Spa 32. Tuan Boy

DOCK

DAO

38 35

STADIUM

DAO

PHIEN

Ba Le Well

Dong Hiep Entertainment Area Dong Hiep Entertainment Area

18. Lantern Town Restaurant 19. Luong Gia 20. Mermaid 21. Morning Glory 22. Streets 23. Tiger Lily 24. White Marble 25. Q Bar 26. Vetiver 27. 3 Dragons

42 2426 364218 50 48

BACH DAN G

44 10

LUU QUY

32 42

STADIUM

TRINH 52 17 3534 19

39 HUNG HUNG 45 31

THAI

Church Church

8 4138 25273 5 1516 15132521 211436

Hoi An river

7. Before & Now 8. Cafe on Le Loi 9. Cargo Club Restaurant 10. Dao Tien 11. Flying Moa 12. Fusion Lounge 13. Green Chili 14. Green Mango 15. Hai Café 16. Highway 4 17. Island Café

NGO QUYEN

NGUYEN PHUC TAN

Historical places of interest

Dining & Bars 6. Al Fresco’s

HOII HO

AN HOI

LA LA

Activities 2. Blue Coral Diving 3. Cham Island Diving & Bar 4. Heaven & Earth Bike Tours 5. Hoi An Motorbike Adventures

Accommodation 1. Life Resort

QUANG TRUONG BRIDGE G TRUONG E

Japanese Bridge

8 23

ONG

VAN TRAN

. TNGH. THI I MMINH INH KHAI Hoai River Square KH A

PHAN

28 31 33 16

TO AN BANG BEACH

BA BA HAI TRUNG

VAN TRAN CAO

TO TRUONGTR U

NGUYEN

PHAN

TRAN

CHAU T. VAN

HOI AN OLD QUARTER

NGUYEN NGUYEN HOANG HOANG

LOI

TU NGO GIA

DIEU

HOANG V. THU

HAI VAN CHAU THUONG

G TR. M. LUON

HUE NGUYEN NGUYEN TRAN Q. CAP

THAI HONG PHAM

BA TRIEU

HOANG

54 55

prêt-à-porter

designed & made in Hoi An the simple wearables of avAna _ a catchy anagram of anna and ava's names _ have a definitive Hoi An feel. avAna also partner with local tailors & craftsmen to create their products. SIMPLE WEARABLES, ACCESSORIES, HOMEWARE & ART

prêt-à-porter

57, Le Loi contemporary, elegant and comfortable designs that come in a variety of european sizes.

www.hoiandesign.com

ƠN

TRƯ MIN H

TỐ N G SƯ G

ƠN

Monumental and Ecoiogical Site Of Rung Dua Bay Mau

THUẬN TÌNH ECO ISLAND

The Five Shrines

Zero Seamile Beach Club

Phuoc Trach Bridge

Palm Garden Resort

6 Essence of health

n Tow

DD AN AN

3. Victoria Resort 4. Golden Sand Resort 5. Sunrise Resort

Entertainment: 1. Zero Seamile Club Accommodation: 2. Palm Garden Resort

To Ch a

dF er ry

Isl an

Golden Sand Resort

Victoria Resort

Cua Dai Beach

ỦY BAN NHÂN DÂN PHƯỜNG CỬA ĐẠI

5 Sunrise Resort

Cham Islands

Health and Wellness: 6. Essence of health

THIÊN

Thuan Tinh Dock

VĂ N

ỦY BAN NHÂN DÂN XÃ XẨM THANH

Bà Shrine

Cẩm Thanh Bridge

ld nO oi A H o T

HÙ

EA CH

PAM

Đê

IL ỰU

Đườ

UỲ NH

NB AN

TO A

CUA DAI

Rice Paddy Fields & Shrimp Farms

MAP PHÙ ĐỔNG VƯƠN G

An Bang Beach Hoi An . Viet Nam

Located on An Bang Beach, Soul Kitchen & Bar faces the ocean and offers a peaceful haven to escape, relax and indulge. Our restaurant and bar was the first joint ForeignVietnamese outlet to open on An Bang beach – and our good reputation is well-deserved!

Cua Dai Hoi An

he soul behind the Soul Kitchen concept is a collective effort of Franck (who years ago started the famed Tam Tam café), Sophie (who gave the “soul” to the place), Chef Mien (who has trained under various international chefs in French bistro style cooking, and has a brilliant aptitude for working with local produce) and Guillaume (the bar maestro and Soul Kitchen's friendly maître d'). Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner at Soul Kitchen. House specialties include the Tuna Tartare, Fish Carpaccio, Seafood BBQ and Tuna Sashimi. Chef Mien is inspired by what’s in season and available at the market so check the blackboard daily special! Happy hours are 4-6pm on weekdays. We also have regular events – check the Live Hoi An Flyer or the calendar. Far left, An Bang beach: Tel: +84 (0) 906 440 320

Email: soulkitchenvietnam@gmail.com - Web: www.soulkitchen.sitew.com

NGUYỄN

PHẠM VĂN ĐỒNG

PHẠM NGỌC THẠCH

LƯU TR ỌNG LƯ

LÊ ĐÌNH DƯƠ

TÔN

Phước Lâm

VIÊN LAN CHẾ

TẤT

LÊ

NGÔ

VĂN

THÀNH

SĨ

HƯU

NGUYỄN BỈNH KHIÊM

LIÊN

THẮNG

CAO BÁ QUÁT

ĐỨC

HẢI

ĐOÀN THỊ ĐIỂM

NGUYỄN TUÂN

LÊ

CHU

LONG

VĂN

HƯU

ÔNG

Cầu An Bàng An Bàng Bridge

QUÂN

To Đà Nẵng

PARK AND STATUE OF NGUYEN DUY HIEU

Chúc Thánh

LÃN

Japanese Tomb

THƯỢNG

LẠC

6 54 3 2

DƯ

TRƯNG BÀ HAI

To Đà Nẵng

PHONG HỒNG LÊ

PHIẾN BÁ PHAN

NGUYỄN

Cotec Plaza

ach

To Cửa Đại Be

LÝ

TRỨ

HOÀNG

Church

Thái Bình Dươ ng Hopital

THÁI

CÔNG

ĐINH TIÊN

Tan An Market

Japanese Tomb

Tra Que Vegetable Planting Village

La Plage & Phatties

HIỂU HC

Soul Kitchen Jaspas Beach Club Le Banyan Hai Ka Luna d’Autunno

PHAN

VĂN TRẦN

PHÙNG

ĐÌNH

ĐÌN YỄN NGU

LÝ

TỘ TRƯỜNG

To Hội An Old Town

PHIÊN

STADIUM

THƯỜNG

THÁI

KIỆT

TỔ

1. La Plage & Phatties 2. Luna d’Autunno 3. Jaspas Beach Club 4. Hai Ka 5. Soul Kitchen 6. Le Banyan

Dining/Entertainment index

AN BANG

MAP

NGUYỄN

62 63

Cooking School & Restaurant

Villa

Functions

Son Tra Peninsula

G SA

HAI VAN PASS 14 KM

HO AN

DA NANG

Man Thai Fishing Village

Lady Buddha

My Khe Beach

Mercure Danang

Best New Course in Asia Pacific

INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Lifestyle Resort

BA NA HILLS

Furama Resort Fusion Maia Danang TRUONG SA

Crown Plaza Danang

asiangolf

A W A R D S

2 0 1 1

"Vietnam's Best New Golf Course 2010 – 2011" "Vietnam's Best Clubhouse Golf Course 2010 – 2011" Spencer Robinson President, Editorial

spencer@asiapacificgolfgroup.com mobile: +65 9119 2022

VIETNAM GOLF ASSOCIATION

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa

Danang

Vinpearl Luxury Danang

Marble Mountain

Sandy Beach Resort The Ocean Villas Danang Beach Resort

Marble Mountain

Danang Golf Club

EAST S EA

Montgomerie Links

NG B

DUO IEN

The Nam Hai Le Belhamy

I B

G UN

An Bang Beach Dai Cua

n i A o H

DANANG GOLF CLUB - VIETNAM Tel: +84 (0) 511 3958 111 Fax: +84 (0) 511 3958 112 Son Tra – Dien Ngoc Coastal Street, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist, Danang City, Vietnam Email: reservations@dananggolfclub.com Website: www.dananggolfclub.com

Golf

69 in the morning for that matter) anytime before dark - and can always sort me taxi if we decide to carry on later into the night.

At Home in Danang Golf Club... James Tinnion-Morgan

Having been in Da Nang now for the last

5 months, it still never ceases to amaze me just how great the facilities at the Da Nang Golf club are. I've been a member ever since arriving in Vietnam and in my opinion the golf course itself is one of the best I have ever played on; but it's not just that - it's the whole package. Up at the clubhouse, be it mid-week or weekends there are always people around, which is a great way to feel at ease in a space and get the opportunity to meet new people. If it's just you though the ambience in the different areas of the clubhouse means that you don't feel isolated or exposed, instead you feel invited! There is a really funky bar area, which has seen many a late afternoon and evening, relaxing in the high backed comfy chairs and enjoying an enviable selection of beers, wines and cocktails. Never rushed, but always attended to is the way we've always felt. Beside this, there is the main restaurant and the lovely terrace, all of which come with the same great attention to detail and casual but sophisticated atmosphere. The terrace has a view over the 9th green and the 10th tee, and across the putting green to the driving range; so will often provide a stimulating outlook for an afternoon relaxation after that round of golf or practice session at the range. This is the place you will often find my wife and I with friends on a Saturday or Sunday, normally enjoying a few cold beers whilst watching the sun go down across the course. Best of all for us, as we live over at Ocean Villas I don't have to worry about getting home safe as the club can always arrange a buggy to get me home (and pick me up

That kind of evening is often spent retiring to the main dining room to enjoy the wonderful array of Asian and Western food, and very well stocked wine list. I would go as far as saying that I have had some of the best presented and tasting food at the Golf Club during our time here and we can pride ourselves as having eaten at an enormous range of places throughout Da Nang and Hoi An. The food really is an all day occurrence with the breakfasts well worth getting up early for, the lunchtime selection always leave me wanting more – as if I am in the mood for rice or noodles the Indonesian Nasi Goreng or Mee Goreng are excellent; but if I am ‘carbo’ loading the “DGC burger” is a must. The fine dining selection of steaks or seafood, as well as a very well collated Vietnamese menu is just right for the evening meal – and that’s all before you get to see the specials of the day! Outside of the main clubhouse, there is also the driving range and for that matter a great little cafe/bar at the range itself. I often like to get back from work after 5pm and then get someone to come collect me and head up to the driving range for a bucket of balls and then a quick beer. I can often guarantee that there are few people up there, and as it stays open late into the evening, nobody feels any need to rush away. So you can take your time over the first bucket of balls and then have a beer or 2 before finishing of the practice. Let’s be fair, in Asia there is often the need to practice your drinking and your golf swing, as you know you will eventually end up needing these skills on the course! Throughout all of this I have alluded to the staff - but let me take a moment and pay tribute to fantastic group of people. Across the board the team at the Danang Golf Club are exceptional. Their level of service, spoken English, hospitality and attention to detail is fantastic, and often only rivalled by their genuine sincerity. If you haven’t been to the Danang Golf Club yet you are missing a trick – take the time to explore anytime of the day and I am sure that you will be as impressed as I have been with the entire experience. I know for sure that my wife and I will continue to be regular customers and look forward to many more pleasant days spent whiling away the hours in wonderful surroundings at the Da Nang Golf Club. Thank you to James Tinnion-Morgan - Member of Danang Golf Club – for his contribution. For more information about the golf club: www.dananggolfclub.com, Tel: +84 (0) 511 3958 111 | Email: info@dananggolfclub.com

Golf

Golfing Girls:

Montgomerie Links’ Ladies Clinic Amy Morison

While countless women are playing golf

across the globe – and its popularity is increasing every year – the fact is that many golfing facilities remain overtly male-dominated; creating a very ‘boys club’ atmosphere that is either intimidating or straight out offputting to us girls. But fortunately for ladies who live locally, the Montgomerie Links has a very progressive approach to female golfing and their management team works hard to create a club environment that is both welcoming and encouraging to women. Monty’s women-friendly initiatives are perhaps best illustrated by the exclusive ladies-only golf clinic that they play host to every Friday morning under the tutelage of PGA instructor Taylor Murphy. Between 10-11am, women can take advantage of a professional lesson from Taylor at the driving range which also includes one-on-one tips for a mere 260,000VND. Club hire, balls and a bottle of water are all part of the package too and ladies can even go as far as utilizing the complimentary shuttle bus services that Monty have going from both Hoi An and Da Nang. Besides the health benefits, many of the women who commonly attend the driving range clinic find the social aspect of it as appealing as the activity itself. One of the regular attendees, Margaret – a US native who moved to Da Nang in 2009 – pointed out that it is the only consistent women’s event in the Hoi An / Da Nang area (well, at least one that doesn’t involve drinking at a bar – ie, Ladies Nights).

“There is no women’s association in Da Nang where expat and local women meet together to take part in various community events. This clinic is the only regular event I know of that is woman-centric and open to all regardless of their skill level or age. It’s a great way to get outdoors, meet some new people and learn the game of golf. We have a very internationally diverse group of women too who attend which I think makes it all the more interesting and enjoyable,” she said during an interview with Live Hoi An. Cordula, a German expat who has been working and living in Da Nang for the past 2 years, echoed Margaret’s point of view, saying she had never played golf prior to Vietnam but started up because it seemed like a good way to make friends and learn a new sport. She finds the game appealing because it is both mentally and physically challenging. “I really enjoy the personal challenge that golf provides. It is not like other sports – you don’t compete with others but are instead constantly challenging yourself. It’s as psychologically testing as it is physically,” she explained. Margaret agreed, adding that “in golf you are only ever playing against yourself”, which may also add to its appeal for women. Rather than competing with each other, the ladies come together for a convivial ‘no-pressure’ social round – and many who attend the clinic make plans for a game on the course with each other too. If you’re female and keen to join the clinic (expat or visitor – all ladies welcome), then swing by the Montgomerie Links driving range just before 10am on a Friday. If you have a question you’d like to ask in advance of attending, then you can email Taylor directly: taylor.murphy@montgomerielinks.com Montgomerie Links: +84 (510) 3 941 942 - www.montgomerielinks.com

Activities

Lantern-making at Lifestart

Crafting a Difference Caroline Mills

The Lifestart Foundation Tour is as enlightening as it is fun. With 2 tours a day starting at 9am or 2pm you get the chance to meet some of these inspiring people whilst learning the art of traditional Vietnamese painting – a class tutored by one of Lifestart’s success stories, Sinh who spent his childhood in an orphanage after his mother died. Now an Internationally recognised artist Sinh donates 10% of his proceeds back into the foundation and volunteers at the foundations school. His art class is run from the class room on the banks of the river Thu Bon a location that even the least creative person can draw inspiration from. Sinh’s lesson in ink on rice paper is one of those unique Hoi An experiences you’ll remember for many years and you get to keep your masterpiece. Back at the workshop in town, after a relaxing boat trip you get to meet some of the other artisan’s, hear their stories and learn the art of creating your very own silk lantern with the guidance of your tutor. The girls in the workshop whilst I was there were great fun, cracking jokes over our less than perfect lantern making skills. These girls make it look so easy!

When on holiday it’s easy to overlook the

poverty of a country. Beautiful restaurants, five star resorts – Hoi An is a fast growing tourist destination, which has left whole families that rely upon simple family trades like fishing and farming with less opportunities. These are the people that cannot afford a good education for their children or the best medical care for their families leaving many children placed in orphanages as families struggle to provide. The Lifestart Foundation is one of the only ‘not for profit’ charities in town that aims to help these families become self-sufficient and offers both education and vocational training to give the disadvantaged the opportunity to break the cycle of poverty and gain the skills to create a sustainable, ongoing income.

There aren’t many tours in Hoi An where you learn so much and are welcomed so warmly. The tours are family friendly, enabling kids over 10 to participate and perhaps learn a little of life without an X-Box. All the funds go back into the foundation which goes a long way towards helping the incredible people supported by Lifestart. If you are not in town long enough to take part, track down their shop, it’s packed with fabulous, handcrafted gifts, each with their own story (my personal favorites are the sock toys, made by Nguyen). You might even be lucky enough to meet its creator. Tours are priced at 500,000VND – please call for to reserve. Lifestart Foundation 77 Phan Chau Trinh St. T: +84(0)167 355 9447 www.lifestartfoundation.org.au

Activities Green Bamboo:

Personalized Cooking Classes Amy Morison

I’ve known Van – the founder and host

of Green Bamboo Cooking Class – for a couple of years in Vietnam, through my friend Jo, who works with her for the non-profit Swim Vietnam organization. I knew she was a bit of a foodie because every time she’d host a local dinner party the expats would be raving on about it for days. So I wasn’t particularly surprised to hear she had started her own cooking class tour; it seemed a natural transition for someone who is so clearly passionate about Vietnamese cuisine and who possesses such an organically hospitable nature. Van’s English is exceptional too – her husband is Swedish and she lived abroad for a number of years – which also makes her a perfect host as she can understand both Vietnamese and Western mindsets and approaches. The Green Bamboo class is unlike any other cooking class in Hoi An. Which is refreshing, because there are quite literally over a hundred of them, mostly offering the same menu and experience. I’m not badmouthing the others – there are some really fantastic ones in town – I’m just pointing out some of the differences with Green Bamboo. The premise of Van’s cooking class is that the experience is a very personal one – she applies basically the same philosophy one would to a homestay. Her groups are small; never more than 8 people, enabling her to talk one-one-one to all guests. Before commencing tours, Van gives her guests a menu to choose a dish from (different from other tours which have a prescribed menu and itinerary). There are 53 dishes to choose from, 17 of which are vegetarian

75 (another unusual feature that sets her cooking class apart). When she takes you to the market to pick out the ingredients for your dish, she is thorough and patient in explaining everything including the dialogue between her and the vendor. Once all the ingredients are purchased, guests then come to Van’s own home and kitchen to prepare the food. On the day Live Hoi An experienced the tour, there were four guests altogether. The dishes chosen were fried spring rolls, fish in claypot, stir-fried seafood with vermicelli turmeric noodles and sautéed prawns in lemongrass and chilli. The open-plan kitchen with the centralized cooking station was large enough for us to fit comfortably but also had a real homely feel, making the experience all the more personal. Van showed us how to peel, cut and

prepare all the ingredients in the time-honoured fashion – her knowledge stemming from family recipes and techniques passed down. Everyone received personal attention and instruction for the cooking process, again with Van explaining the health benefits of particular ingredients and also why certain methods are important (for example, how to bruise the lemongrass, pick the herbs off their stems, or cut and pound the chilli – each ingredient having a particular technique which will influence the overall flavour of a dish). When all the dishes were complete, we all sat together, family style for a feast! There was no rush, the conversation flowed naturally, and there was even a nice bottle of wine to complement our efforts in the kitchen. The relaxed atmosphere really made a difference too – so many other tours are time-constrained and you feel somewhat rushed to finish off your food. Van makes a point of letting her guests relax and purposely doesn’t press them to a stringent timeline when it comes to eating. She also hasn’t hiked up her prices since starting even though she easily could considering how customized the class is (not to mention popular!) Van’s real interest is on giving her guests a wonderful culinary experience, not in making money. That’s why the class has remained at 600,000VND per person. I’d highly recommend it – and if you need further proof, see TripAdvisor – at the time of print, all her review rankings (111) were ‘Excellent’, bar one, which ranked her ‘Very Good’. Green Bamboo Cooking School Tel: +84 (0) 905 815 600 - Email: van@greenbamboo-hoian.com

Activities Dale’s Surfing Lessons Get surf lessons from a Bondi beach natives. Dale’s easygoing and patient nature make him a great teacher. Catch some waves with him at Cua Dai beach. 29 Cua Dai Rd. +84 (0) 120 397 6102 Danang Golf Club Danang Golf Club comprises two courses of 36 holes, the first of which – The Dunes – is already complete. Designed by Greg Norman, the DGC has a stunning layout with backdrops of the East Sea and Marble Mountains. It also sports a number of facilities including a driving range and top of the range practice facility (such as swing studios with video analysis), café and clubhouse with private dining room, member’s terrace, restaurant and lounge. Tel: +84 511 3958 111 Email: info@dananggolfclub.com Web: www.dananggolfclub.com.vn Dao Tien Cooking Class By far one of the best cooking classes in town, this restaurant is owned and managed by Dao Thi Tien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet. Chef Viet’s classes are comprehensive and more intimate than the better known cooking classes in town. You will get one-on-one tips and learn classics such as Hoi An money bags and spring rolls. His easygoing style and attentive nature will mean you’re likely to try the dishes at home. 21 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3622 100 Email: reservation@daotienhoian.net Web: www.daotienhoian.net Hai Café Cooking Class From the same famed owners of Red Bridge, the Hai Café offer an evening cooking class to Hoi An visitors. Learn local favourites in the cooler temperature of the evening, with a garden courtyard as a backdrop. Classes include eating the delicious creations afterwards. 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3862 210 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com Heaven & Earth This bicycle tour takes visitors to a part of Hoi An that is never seen by tourists. Explore the true countryside and discover the charms of the rural village folk. The tour leaders are friendly and their knowledge vast – they offer a truly unique experience, with half day, full day and overnight tours. 57 Ngo Quyen St Tel: +84 122 9527 365 Web: www.vietnam-bicycle.com Hoi An Photo Tour Find the best photographic opportunities Hoi An has to offer. Etienne Bossot will take you off the beaten track and upclose and personal with the locals. See the cultural, countryside of Hoi An. Both sunrise and sunset tours are available. Etienne will provide a photo work-

LISTING shop and help you get the right angles and settings for your shots. Bookings essential. Tel: +84 905 671 898 Web: www.hoianphototour.com Long Vy Lantern-Making Learn the ancient art of lantern making from Hoi An’s most experienced lantern maker! Mr Thoai is a 3rd generation lantern-craftsman and offers workshops (where you get to keep your own lantern) for just $3 per person! 6 Phan Chau Trinh St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3606 611 +84 (0)908 664 731 Email: longdenlongvy@gmail.com Web: www.hoianlantern.com.vn Montgomerie Links Golf Course Tee off on this Colin Montgomerie designed course, with beautiful sweeping views and mountainous surrounds. The challenging 18-hole course is complemented by a driving bay facility, clubhouse, café and pro shop. PGA lessons for beginner, kids and women are available. Web: www.montgomerielinks.com Morning Glory Cooking School The signature of the Morning Glory restaurant is its ‘street food’ selection and their cooking class will give you a proper introduction into local favourites as well as national cuisines. The classes are designed for those who truly want to grasp the culinary tastes of Vietnam and be able to mimic them on their return home. 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 241 555 / 241 556 Fax: +84 510 911 431 Email:gourmet@hoianhospitality.com morningglorycookingschool@gmail.com Red Bridge Cooking School & Restaurant Red Bridge is famous for its cooking tours, and operates a half-day morning tour and a deluxe day tour throughout the year, as well as an evening class at their sister restaurant Hai Café – go to www.visithoian.com. The Red Bridge Restaurant is romantically set on the Hoi An River outside the main part of town in a serene environment that is perfect for dining on your handmade meal. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and for dinner by request and guests get full use of the pool. Thon 4, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3933 222 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Tour Join Aussie Neville Dean – a pure street food fanatic – for a half day tour of Hoi An’s best street food vendor offerings. See the vendors up close and in action and then head back for the sampling of 30 or so dishes at the Family restaurant on Nguyen Thai Hoc St. A great introduction to authentic local cuisine. Tel: +84 905 382 783 +84 121 7621 693 Email: theteacher@tasteofhoian.com Web: www.tasteofhoian.com

BEST GOLF COURSE IN VIETNAM 2012 USA GOLF DIGEST

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SPONSORED ARTICLE

Green Chili Spicing Up Hoi An

“We treat all our customers as old friends. We have a great menu of Tex Mex, Western, Mediterranean and Vietnamese classics, but are flexible to cater to a specific customer’s taste,” says Jackie. To match an eclectic and well-executed menu, Green Chili has an extensive cocktail and wine list. Top shelf and rare tequilas and mescals are also available. Their head chef Nando also offers Vietnamese cooking classes!

teaks and burgers off the grill. American and Tex Mex classics. Homemade pastas by a proper Italian-trained chef. Green Chili offers a variety of high-quality dishes to suit all kinds of palates. Founded and managed by husband and wife team Hanh and Jackie, the restaurant offers warm hospitality in addition to excellent home-style and gourmet cooking! Whether you’re seeking comfort food or an exquisite mesh of East and West, Green Chili has a menu to satisfy all appetites.

Green Chili - Ớt Xanh:

Dining

Sunrise

The Island Café:

Feel The Serenity Amy Morison

Let the soft wind

wisp around you as you enjoy one of Hoi An’s best panoramas – a historic view that even in current times conjures up a sense for the nostalgic. You cannot but imagine the old Chinese junks and merchant traders that once anchored in the Hoai River – and being on the An Hoi side of the bank you are mercifully far from the frenzy of tourists and market sellers that can ruin Hoi An’s otherwise lovely ambiance. The Island Café specializes in English comfort food and offers authentic, homemade Vietnamese dishes by an experienced, local chef. They cater dishes not yet popular in Hoi An, including a Full English Breakfast for 75,000VND and Baked Jacket Potatoes – a specialty they offer with numerous fillings (the prawns with homemade prawn cocktail sauce is a favourite at only 85,000VND). All dishes are original and made with carefully selected ingredients to ensure a distinctive, fresh taste. The café can cater outdoor riverside BBQ buffets, and offers a rather ingenious floating bamboo raft for seating as well as its cozy indoor bar/dining lounge. Besides the food, the café serves proper Italian espressos and coffee-based drinks made from freshground Caffe’ Vergnano (the author’s favourite coffee beans!) including Lattes, Cappuccino, Frappucinos and more. A Vergnano Espresso will cost you a mere 29,000 VND.

Sumptuous Saturday Buffet at Sunset

Caroline Mills

The Sunrise Resort’s weekly Saturday

evening seafood barbeque banquet seemed a fitting culinary finale to a hard day loafing around by the pool. A romantic affair and if the way to your hearts is through your stomachs consider it fast tracked, especially as the sun sinks behind the beautiful island view from Sunrise’s white sandy beach. We arrived early to watch head chef William and his team arrange a stunning gastronomic display, with both local Vietnamese and Western dishes amongst the offerings. It was almost too tempting not to just dive straight in with the desserts. Thankfully at that moment our senses were drawn to the barbeque, piled high with freshly caught oysters grilled with lemongrass, fragrant oil and peanuts and the most superb herb stuffed, melt in the mouth red snapper, crabs, shrimp and huge skewered chicken wings. My date for the evening had already lost his self-control over the succulent rack of lamb, whilst I devoured the handmade spring rolls and some quite spectacular sushi.

Lend yourself to the carefree and relaxing vibe at Island Café and you won’t be able to stop yourself from muttering those magic words from The Castle, “Ahh… feel the serenity.”

The food is fresh, local and delicious. A perfectly formed buffet prepared beautifully by the Malaysian chef who was happy to adapt dishes to our taste. My top tip - just leave enough room for dessert; you will be so glad you did. The BBQ is every Saturday from 5:30 – 9pm and includes free flow beer for 588,000VND++ and 294,000VND++ for children aged 9-15 years.

The Island Café: An Hoi Island (over the bridge, far left, next to the Dong Hiep Entertainment Area) Tel: 0169 233 6050.

Sunrise Resort Far right, Cua Dai beach +84 (0)510 393 7777 www.sunrisehoian.vn

Dining

Lantern Town:

Local Dining with a Lavish Twist Caroline Mills

Lantern Town is a relative newcomer to

the Hoi An dining scene and fast becoming one of my favorite places to eat. It was opened just under a year ago by three charming Vietnamese Intrepid tour leaders from Hanoi who share a strong passion for food, service and quality. The result of which is one of the town’s most innovative fusion menus that turns authentic Hoi An ingredients into the most delectable dishes. A signature dish that illustrates their masterful fusion work is the Hoi An spaghetti – Mi Quang noodles served in a delicate creamy sauce with chicken, mint and chilli for 125,000VND. This stands testament to chef Son’s talent in the kitchen and his adept understanding of flavours. It’s delicious! Son is one of the few chefs I have met that not only understands Western food standards – he spent years learning his trade at the famed five star Sofitel Plaza Hanoi – but also is firmly against using ingredients such as MSG (something he has banned from his kitchen even for staff meals) and limiting the use of sugar. The open kitchen further promotes comfort in the idea that everything is prepared fresh and hygienically – guests are welcome to have a peek at the action. Whilst Son is busy in the kitchen, his business partner Khiem hosts the restaurant, providing each diner with advice on everything from the menu to visiting attractions and ‘must-do’ activities in town; his background in the tour industry and passion for Hoi An make the restaurant a great first point of call when you arrive in town. But be warned – Lantern Town sets expectations high and even with so many eateries available in

Hoi An you will not doubt be back. Especially as the restaurant provides the choice of riverside, terrace and intimate traditional house dining areas and an eclectic, well-executed menu, it will be a new experience each time. On the most recent occasion that my partner and I dined there, we relaxed and allowed Khiem to order for us, starting off with delicious Duck Spring Rolls and a Pomelo and Prawn salad both priced at an exceptionally reasonable 80,000VND. The Pomelo salad was the perfect refresher for a rather hot evening and the Spring Rolls were just spot on stupendous. For our main course I couldn’t resist tucking into one of Son’s fusion creations and was rewarded with the most succulent white tuna steak I’ve ever feasted on – dressed with a celery cream sauce and priced at 225,000VND (so good that you should be at the ready to fend off any enviable fellow diners). For dessert I’ll just say Apple Crumble – try it and you will know what I mean. I stumbled across this restaurant originally whilst looking for riverside happy hour cocktails and what pulled me in other than the reasonably priced international wine list was the quote on the menu: “Alcohol – because no great story ever started with someone eating salad”. Lantern Town also offers an excellent cooking class with chef Son and a little bird told me about a rather amazing boat tour they do on a local island with a BBQ and free flowing wine. I can’t wait to try both options! Lantern Town 49 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, +84 (0) 123 991 2212, www.lanterntown.com

Dining

Pho Xua:

Ancient Recipes, Modern Restaurant Atmosphere Amy Morison

Phở is considered

Vietnam’s “national dish” due to its widespread popularity. It is food of the common people; bona fide street food. Originally from Hanoi, phở is the ultimate comfort food – flavoursome, warm and piquant. This is why I was particularly excited when a friend of mine recommended a new restaurant in Hoi An called Pho Xua. Pho Xua is run by a Hanoian who has lived in Hoi An for 2 years – Ms Nguyen Thuy Linh. She has hired a Hanoian chef who cooks authentic phở from bone stock with no MSG – a process that takes at least 8 hours – and she serves up this signature dish for a mere 25,000VND in her quaint, clean restaurant on Phan Chu Trinh street. Traditionally, the broth for phở is made with simmering beef or chicken bones, charred onion and spices such as cinnamon, star anise, ginger, coriander and cloves. The broth is added to flat white rice noodles and meat. Phở bo (phở made with tender beef slices) is the most popular choice and typical accompaniments are lime wedges, chilli sauce, soy sauce, Vietnamese basil and bean sprouts (the sprouts provide for a great crunchy texture). Vietnamese culinary experts generally agree that the term phở is a derivative of the French word “feu” which means “fire.” It’s possible that phở is a Vietnamese adaptation of the French soup “pot au feu” or French beef stew, which the French introduced to Vietnam when they occupied the country. “Pot au feu” literally translates to “pot on the fire,” indicating the lengthy time period needed to create

the soup. Similar to phở, marrow-rich and cartilaginous beef bones are used to make a broth and it gains its flavour by slowly simmering on a low heat. Besides beef and chicken phở, Pho Xua also offers Com Ga (chicken rice), Cao Lau (a Hoi An specialty) and Hanoi Nem (fried pork filled spring rolls). All dishes are 25,000VND and it is the most hygienically- sound place I know of in Hoi An serving proper Hanoi street phở in a restaurant atmosphere. You really must go for the phở but make sure you order a side of Nem – these spring rolls are unlike anything I’ve seen. Delicious, triangular-sized (which is very unusual) fried spring rolls served with a healthy portion of salad, herbs, bun noodles and sweet/sour fish dipping sauce. In Vietnamese the name ‘Xua’ means ancient, which is a fitting name for this restaurant in terms of their commitment to making traditional recipes. Even the condiments reflect this – with pickles and chilli sauce particular to both the Hanoi phở but also the chilli jam required of Cao Lau. I’ve been to the restaurant on four separate occasions, two of which were with Hanoi-born friends who gave it an emphatic thumbs-up for authenticity. If phở is on your mind, I highly recommend this restaurant which is open from 5am-10am and 5pm10pm daily. Pho Xua: 35A Phan Chu Trinh St (opposite side of the entrance alleyway to Bale Well) 0982 336 966

Dining

87 When the time came for the sons to present their foods, the King was somewhat disappointed with the dishes of the other sons. When Lang Lieu offered his two cakes – Banh Day and Banh Chung, the King was delighted and declared them the most delicious. When Lang Lieu explained how he had discovered these cakes, the King concluded that one so connected with such divine support should handle the affairs of the Kingdom.

Banh Chung

Street Food Fit for A King

Neville Dean

Some 2300 years ago, King Hung Vuong VI of the Hong Bang Dynasty decided to retire from the throne after once more defeating the Chinese invaders. He now felt he was too old to continue to rule. He summoned his twenty-two sons and explained his successor would be the one who could prepare the best dishes to offer to the ancestors and also satisfy the King’s taste.

Upon hearing this, each prince set out on his journey to find the most exotic and unusual foods to present to the King. They returned with a wide array of dishes such as bears’ paws, rhinoceros’ livers, monkeys’ brains, orangutans’ lips, phoenix meat and peacock sausages. Among the princes, Lang Lieu (Tiet Lieu).was the youngest and poorest, yet the most devoted and considerate. Unlike his brothers, he chose to stay home with his father. He was so poor he could not afford to buy exquisite dishes to offer to the ancestors and his father. One evening after thinking of ways to make his father happy, Lang Lieu fell asleep. In his dream, an old man with white hair appeared in a dream saying, “Your devotion and caring have touched my heart very deeply. You truly deserve to succeed your father. You don’t have to go anywhere to find foods – it is just a waste of time and money. Of all the foods, rice is the most precious and valuable, yet very abundant. You will find it anywhere in your father’s kingdom. Go and use glutinous rice. Cook it thoroughly then mould it into a round rice cake and call it Banh Day. This will symbolize the heavens. Do the same with a square sticky rice cake. Stuff it with cooked bean paste and pork and call it Banh Chung. This will symbolize the earth. Present these cakes to your father as offerings to your ancestors.” When he awoke, Lang Lieu was very happy and did exactly as he was told.

Every year during Tet celebrations, the Vietnamese people cook Banh Chung and Banh Day to use as offerings to their ancestors as well as special gifts to relatives and friends. Traditionally, the ashes of the hearth should not be touched during the three days of Tet, lest the peace of the household be disturbed. So food to be consumed during the three days of New Year must be prepared beforehand and preserved for several days. Both Banh Chung and Banh Day keep and travel well, and allow freedom from cooking during the holiday. Because of these qualities they were often used by soldiers on the march during wartime. Today Banh Chung is enjoyed year-round and has become the fast food of Vietnam. Every evening around both Hoi An and Da Nang motorcycle vendors can be heard touting “Banh Chung Day, Cha Day” - “I sell Banh Chung; I sell Sausages (Cha Bo and Cha Heo)”. So that’s what that amplified voice travelling up and down the streets each night is saying!

Neville Dean is the founder and guide for The Last Great Taste of Hoi An Food Tour –a culinary tour that explores Hoi An’s most famous dishes, from street food snacks to celebratory meals. You can find out more at www.tasteofhoian.com

Dining Feature Chef and Recipe:

Chef Hung from Green Mango

The Recipe: Cashew-encrusted Seabass • Ingredients Seabass x 200gr Roasted cashew nut x 30gr Chopped fresh basil x 1/4 teaspoon (or dried basil ) Salt and pepper to taste

2 x each vegetable portion - broccoli - cauliflower - bok choy Sauces: basil olive oil, beetroot reduction, passion fruit juice vinaigrette

Creating palettes for the

palate is Chef Nguyen Manh Hung’s forte. His culinary artistry has been the backbone of many a Vietnamese dining venue including heavyweight Bobby Chinn and the signature restaurants of hotels Nikko, Hilton and Meritus in Hanoi – just to name a few. Fortunately for those living local, the charismatic Chef Hung has acclimatized to Hoi An; and it doesn’t look like it’s just for the season. He is currently the head chef at Green Mango restaurant (which celebrates its one year anniversary in Hoi An this September), cooking up a storm and charming the appetites of expats and visitors alike. • When did you become a chef? 01/01/01 (as in 2001). Can’t beat that for an auspicious date! • What makes you passionate about food? I evolved from being a cook to a chef when plating up dishes became art. Art that satisfied customers. Anyone can be a cook, but being a chef is an artform. Just as anyone can play an instrument – what separates the artist is how they create the songs. My art is in the dishes I create; the unique subtleties in flavour and how certain flavours meld well with others. When I make a meal that becomes an extraordinary experience for the diner, then I am happy – that is what I strive for; all I want as a chef. To bring happiness to others through food. • You’ve worked in a number of esteemed restaurants – too many to even mention. Why did you choose to move to Hoi An? I wanted to move with my family (sorry ladies, Chef Hung has been happily married since 2007 and is a father of two) to a place where the air is clean and we are near the beach. There is no traffic congestion, it is quiet and safe – a nice environment to be. There is also plenty of space for me to pursue my hobby – remote-controlled helicopter flying! Seriously, what makes me happiest in life is to see my wife and kids playing happily in the sand, so Hoi An in that sense is a dream come true for me. • What recipe have you chosen to share and why is this one special? I’ve chosen the Cashew-encrusted Seabass. What makes it special are the sauces – I love passionfruit and the passionfruit ginger sauce is central to this dish. I think all customers who’ve tried this have loved the delicate flavours of the beetroot reduction, basil olive oil and passionfruit ginger sauce when they combine it with the seabass – it’s a symphony in the mouth.

• Method First of all, break up the roasted cashew nut into small pieces and mix with the chopped fresh basil, black pepper and flaky rock salt. Coat the seabass in this mix and then cook it on a griddle for 2 minutes on each side before putting inside an oven (180 degrees celcius) for 8-10 minutes (note that Seabass of 200gr is about 4 cm thick). For the vegetables, just boil them and add salt and pepper to taste. Mount the Seabass over the vegetables and put the sauce mixture around this arrangement. The method for the sauces is secretive. You could try your own out based on the ingredients listed above! For those of you not adventurous enough to attempt Chef Hung’s dish at home, you can experience the real thing at Green Mango restaurant on 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An. Or visit www.greenmango.vn

Dining

Hoi An:

My Hometown An excerpt of Chapter 1 from Taste Vietnam: The Morning Glory Cookbook by Trinh Diem Vy

“She’s a sassy girl; to live with her can be too much, but if you leave her you will miss her.” Father is talking about his home town Hoi An. Even though he spent some of his youth in Saigon, Hoi An is his true home.

I feel the same as Father. I regularly leave Hoi An for short trips, but I would never consider leaving my hometown forever. There is an underlying magnetism; a magical power in the city that goes beyond its charming architecture and history. Hoi An is the bellybutton of the country. Like the bellybutton, Hoi An is at the centre of Vietnam; the connection between past, present and future; between the motherland and her children. It is also a town that not only has character, but builds character. My family’s history in Hoi An starts with my Grandmother, who arrived in Hoi An in 1938. Grandmother and her family were travelling when they stopped in Hoi An; Grandmother felt there was a unique energy to Hoi An. It was like a sixth sense – this was the town where her family should settle. She found the centuries’ old market appealing, believing that if you lived near the market “you would never go hungry”. From the age of 8, I was exercising my entrepreneurial skills selling freshly cooked foods that were in season. The kids down my street called the market “Vy’s Market”. Years later, some friends of mine jokingly referred to it as “Vy’s Empire”.

93 weed is full of protein, meaning the bird’s nest is the most nutritious in the world. These proteins also act as a tonic and have identified 50 types of proteins and micro-minerals in the nests – the perfect quantity for one’s health. In Hoi An, we eat the bird’s nest in either a soup or as a dessert. Tourists often buy spices or treats from the Hoi An market to take back home to their families. Asian tourists are especially keen to buy items such as the swallow’s nest or candies that have been made from the special Hoi An ginger. Even to our neighbours in Da Nang, the produce of Hoi An is famous and people are willing to pay more. Every morning a bus leaves the bus station loaded with produce to sell in Da Nang. The vendors advertise these foodstuffs from Hoi An.

One of Hoi An’s most valuable resources is the Tra Que herb. They use an entirely organic process of fertilising their soil: compacting the earth with fermented river and sea weed. This creates a uniquely alluvial parcel of land making the herbs from Tra Que more fragrant with a sharp quality to their flavour. Hoi An people are used to having such high quality ingredients available to them and can easily differentiate the herbs that come from Tra Que. Hoi An rivers are blessed with tastier crabs and baby clams than other provinces. During the 15th to 17th centuries, the town was known among traders as harbouring the best crab in the region. I use local crab in special dishes such as wonton soup, a signature dish of mine since I opened my first restaurant, Mermaid. The crab-filled silken wontons and broth built my restaurant’s good reputation. The mountains to the west of Hoi An are brimming with natural spices. Guests comment that the black pepper in Hoi An – which we prefer to have coarsely ground – is a distinguishing feature in the local dishes. Famous produce also exclusive to Hoi An is the Bird’s Nest from Cham Islands. Grandmother learned that Cham Islands nests are superior is due to the birds’ diet. The swallows fly to Hai Nan in China where they eat seaweed and return to Cham Islands to nest. The sea-

95 Whilst I own and manage a number of restaurants in Hoi An, I can say that none of this would have been possible without the experiences I had in the market as a child. I will be forever grateful to the market for providing me with the opportunity to do business, where I began selling goods when times were hard. The market became my second home. I could communicate with the other vendors. I was intuitive about the seasons and what people would like. The skills I acquired during this time proved invaluable. This gave me more confidence and energy to continue. I remember a woman who repeated this proverb to me, “the clever man finds his woman in the market”. The market is where my love affair with food started. I watched and learned how traditional Hoi An dishes were prepared and gained an appreciation for the amount of effort and love required to create the perfect dish. During the period rationing, the market kept my imagination alive. The hunger also activated my memories and passion for food. I craved to recreate these favourite Hoi An dishes properly. I know that I am blessed to live in Hoi An, but I know that it takes a certain type of character to do so. There is a lot of pressure to do well for your family. This is why Hoi An people are so tenacious; we will work hard and endure much to maintain a decent standard of living. It is like the seasons –Hoi An residents tolerate the floods, but we see the floods as a time to flush out disease and start the season afresh.

In many ways, I see the town of Hoi An and its strong character as a metaphor for all of Vietnam – the resilience of the locals to stay here, the tight community and the high standards we place on our work and our produce are all characteristics us Vietnamese place great value on. When I see the typical image of an aging lady on a bicycle selling a local dish; balancing her heavy steamers across her shoulders on a bamboo pole, I see a symbol of my country. She epitomizes Vietnam in her quiet, wilful nature, her graceful poise and her passion. She is the strong spirit of Hoi An; of Vietnam. And while sometimes I think it would be nice to have a change of scenery, I know I will never leave my birthplace. Hoi An is my hometown, it is where my heart belongs. Because she is a sassy girl, you cannot leave without missing her for long.

To read more of Ms Vy’s memoirs, you can purchase the Taste Vietnam book from the Morning Glory restaurant at 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St or visit www.restaurant-hoian.com

Dining

Al Fresco’s If you’re craving a decent Western meal after oodles of noodles in ‘Nam, then Al Fresco’s is the most consistent and reputable place in town. From steaks, to pizzas, pastas and the famous BBQ ribs, Al Fresco’s have a menu to suit all tastes. Their Aussie-minded hospitality and across-the-board high standards ensure you won’t be disappointed. 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi islet Tel: +84 510 3929 707 Email: alfrescoshoian@alfrescosgroup.com Web: www.alfrescosgroup.com $$ Bamboo Buddha The elegant Bamboo Buddha is nestled along Hoi An’s lantern street on the An Hoi islet (the other side of the river from old town). Reminiscent of a stylish London bistro, French expat Renaud has perfected a chic yet casual atmosphere and a menu of exquisite tapas and mains. We highly recommended the cold cuts platters of meat or chicken, his famous chicken rotisserie and the grilled Australian steaks. 40 Nguyen Phuc Tan, An Hoi Islet Tel + 84 510 2223 300 Web: www.bb-hoian.com $$-$$$ Before & Now The ever-popular Before & Now bar and restaurant is a lively place that’s suitable for all ages. If you want quiet, there is an upstairs area for dining, otherwise soak up the music and mingle downstairs. They offer a menu of mostly international and Vietnamese dishes – the pizzas and pastas are consistently good. 51 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 599 Web: www.beforennow.com $$ Cham Island Dive Bar & Restaurant “A place where people come to meet people” is the catchphrase of this friendly bar and restaurant which is serviced by the same group who run the Cham Island Diving tours. Their menu is extensive, with great value BBQ sets as well as Mediterranean dishes. A live DJ plays most weekends and the new alfresco cocktail bar serves some of the freshest tropical cocktails in Hoi An. 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 918 255 521 Email: chamislanddiving@gmail.com Web: www.chamislandiving.com $$ Cargo One of Hoi An’s most established and consistent restaurants, this is Live Hoi An’s favourite place for breakfast, but the menu is suitable for all times of the day. Their Italian and local dishes are all first-rate and the patisserie ensures excellent desserts. This has both street and river views. 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 489 Email: cargoclub@hoianhospitality.com

LISTING Web: www.restaurant-hoian.com $$ Dao Tien This top ranking Vietnamese restaurant is owned and managed by Dao ThiTien and her husband Chef Le Quoc Viet. For reasonablypriced, superb Vietnamese dining Dao Tien is by far one of the best restaurants in town. Moreover, Chef Viet’s cooking classes are famous for good reason. Dao Tien is also socially-conscious –Ms Tien has a training school called “Better Living” that gives underprivileged kids culinary or service skills. A number of the Dao Tien employees have been trained in the school. 21 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3622 100 Email: reservation@daotienhoian.net Web: www.daotienhoian.net $$ Dingo Deli This deli-run café and retail business is the only one of its kind in Hoi An. Buy imported cold cut meats (such as hams, salamis), cheeses and other gourmet delights here. They have a modern, air conditioned indoor café and outdoors area with kids’ playground. Wifi, Lavazza coffee and a spare Mac for guest use are some of the other perks of dining here. The menu includes sandwiches, pastas, burgers, nachos, pies and more. Look out for their cheap skate Thursday offers on their Facebook page. 229 Cua Dai Rd, Hoi An Tel: +84 906 552 824 Web: www.dingodeli.com $$ Café on Le Loi Dingo deli’s little sibling serves wraps, sandwiches, juices, ice creams, home baked cakes and other deli delights to go. They also serve Lavazza coffee. 88 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 906 552 824 Web: www.dingodeli.com $-$$ Fullmoon Towns One of Hoi An’s premiere restaurants for local cuisine and ambiance. This beautifully landscaped restaurant on the river offers unrivalled scenery and a mouthwatering menu of locally-inspired cuisine. They have a miniature impression of old town with a replica of the Japanese bridge and three genuine old houses. Groups are welcome but the romantic setting also makes for a nice evening for two. Buffets with BBQ and salads are often available. 101 Cua Dai street Tel: +84 510 3923 922 / 3923 933 Web: www.hoianfullmoontowns.com $$-$$$ Fusion Lounge Operated by the Fusion Maia spa resort this restaurant/lounge has a perfect location facing the old quarter from the other side of the river. Accessible by car and well-regarded for

their unique food and drinks menu, the Fusion Lounge also doesn’t do much harm to the wallet. Try the signature Asian Fusion Set Menu for only 220,000VND including a starter trio of spring rolls and coconut pumpkin soup, a main choice of lemongrass chicken or sea bass and a dessert of ginger/lemongrass infused crème brulee. 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet Tel +84 510 3911 700 Web: www.fusionmaiadanang.com $$-$$$ Green Chili Hoi An’s only Tex-Mex specializing restaurant with Chef Nando cooking up Southwestern classics such as Fajitas, Nachos, Quesadillas and Tacos. Grilled items such as the steaks and ribs are also popular with guests Ask about their top shelf mescals and tequilas. 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3928 199 Email: info@greenchilihoian.com Web: www.greenchilihoian.com $$-$$$ Green House Restaurant Recently opened the Hyatt’s new restaurant is in a stunning locale, has been designed to completely suit the environs (floor to ceiling glass panels), earthy tones and Asiatic décor plus offers an excellent and reasonably priced menu of both Vietnamese and Western. Their minced prawn on sugar cane sticks are delicious as are the smoked salmon, grilled steak and oh so many more … Hyatt Regency, Da Nang Tel: + 84 511 398 1234 $$$ Green Mango Restaurant This is the latest and third installment of chef/ owner Hai who has garnered a well-deserved reputation for fine fusion dining that combines French cooking techniques with dishes inspired by local ingredients. His goat’s cheese cashew encrusted red grapes are amazing! As are all the dishes – recommended is the sea bass, lamb shank and white truffle and mushroom risotto. Hai has opulent taste so you’ll be dining in fine surrounds with a fabulous wine, cocktail and non-alcohol drinks menu and fabulous table service. 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel: +84 510 3929 918 Web: www.greenmango.vn $$$ Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant, Mercure Danang Hotel A new beautifully decorated restaurant that offers lunch time specials and fantastic a la carte Chinese dishes from a chef who hails from Shanghai! The all-you-can-eat-dim sum on the weekend for just 410,000VND is spectacular value and gives you free range over the menu which includes classics and new creations from the head chef. the evening it’s the perfect venue for a romantic meal, the menu is full of delicious dishes, there are private rooms or romantic corners and the service is

impeccable. Don’t forget the extensive wine and tea list! 2nd Floor, MercureDanang, Green Island, Danang Tel: +84 511 3797 210 Web: www.mercure-danang.com $$$ Hai Café Bar & Grill This charming 19th century classic Chinese building has been renovated into a spacious restaurant serving both Vietnamese and International dishes. Their lovely garden courtyard serves up a delicious nightly-barbecue, and their versions of local classics are renowned – namely White Rose and Com Ga. Hai Cafe also offers evening cooking classes as part of its Red Bridge Cooking School. 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3863 210 Email: info@visithoian.com Web: www.visithoian.com $$ Highway 4 A new comer to Hoi An’s dining scene, Highway 4 has transported its famed brand of gourmet and unusual Vietnamese dishes and it’s very own branded rice wine. This fourfloored venue is the perfect place to sample the more unusual traditional dishes of Vietnam such as frogs, crocodile and snake head fish as well as some incredible dishes popular in other regions in Vietnam. 111 BA TRIEU, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 393.4567 Web: www.highway4.com $$ Jaspas Beach Club (JBC) Also part of the Al Fresco’s group, JBC offers fantastic Aussie BBQ, an international menu with both Western and Asian dishes and peerless cocktails. We recommend the weekend or at-the-table BBQ as well as the sesamecrusted tuna, quesadillas, steak and chicken parmesan salad. Their frozen margaritas and daiquiris are unbeatable and the pitcher is a steal at 220,000 VND. Left side, An Bang Beach Tel: +84 510 3928 727 $$ l’Annam, Victoria Resort Overlooking the sea, l'Annam Restaurant offers casual all day dining, international or local Vietnamese and Asian cuisine with freshly caught seafood specialties. They also arrange special romantic dinners on the beach which are catered for by the head chef. Don’t forget breakfast either which is by far the best deal in town for outside guests at only 300,000vnd net. Cua Dai Road, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3927 040 Email: hoian@victoriahotels.asia Web: www.victoriahotels-asia.com $$$ La Plage Located on the far right of the restaurant strip at An Bang beach this sweet little open-air café does great French-Viet food, as well as burgers

1 Year Anniversary

GREEN MANGO

Fine Asian Dining

he newest addition to the Green Mango family is celebrating its first year in Hoi An. Enjoy the exquisite Asiatic creations of owner Chef Hai whose other Green Mango venues have been awarded ‘One of Asia’s Finest’ by the Miele Guide and a Certificate of Excellence from Trip Advisor. The cuisine is a fusion of French cooking techniques and fresh local ingredients by a Vietnamese chef. All diners are presented with bread baked fresh before service and there is a wide range of cocktails, spirits and wines. Top shelf single malts such as Laphroig are available as are boutique beers such as Cooper’s Ale from Australia. Green Mango is also GREEN-minded. They care about the environment by using 100% recycled paper and supporting the ‘Save the Langur’ conservation project. Many of their staff have come through KOTO and Blue Dragon charities. Green Mango: 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St., Hoi An (84.510) 3929 918 | www.greenmango.vn

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and classic sandwiches. They also have plenty of activities to keep you busy. Yoga, art classes and sports are available here. Far right, An Bang beach Tel: +84 510 3928 244 Web: www.laplagehoian.com $-$$ Le Banyan Enjoy the tapas and seafood specialties offered up by Julien. Check our flyer for their oyster weekend. Barman David makes the best caiprioska in town and they have a great wine list too. Their fine food, relaxed environment and fun activities (kitesurfing/volleyball), have got the town talking – Le Banyan has fast become the favourite local hangout. Far left, An Bang beach, Tel: +84 935 100 337 Web: www.lebanyanbar.com $$-$$$ Luna d’Autunno Their reputation preceded them from Ha Noi – with many saying Luna serve the best pizza in Vietnam. Live Hoi An would go as far as claiming it’s the best in the region. Their wood-fired traditional thin crust pizzas are incredible. They also serve a wide variety of authentic Italian dishes and a tiramisu to die for! Proper Italian espresso is also a given. Free delivery too! 6 Cam An (An Bang) beach Tel: +84 127 2840 053 Email: lunahoianbeach@gmail.com $$ Luong Gia This relatively new restaurant is owned by the same family that run the well-known Before & Now. Fantastic Vietnamese and Italian are their specialties and the ambiance is quite unique – both old relics and contemporary art feature in an inviting space. There is a romantic atmosphere which is appropriately matched with a large selection of wines. 34 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 899 Email: luonggia@beforennow.com $$ Mermaid This local institution offers a comprehensive Vietnamese menu with local dishes punctuating the selection. This is Ms Vy of Morning Glory’s fame’s very first restaurant set in a traditional old shop house which adds to the authentic atmosphere. Family-style food, and efficient, friendly service make it one of the best restaurants in town. It is the ‘original’ family Vietnamese dining experience in Hoi An after all! 2 Tran Phu St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3861 527 $$ Morning Glory Cooking School & Restaurant This restaurant is a must-visit venue for those wanting to experience the real street foods of Hoi An (without actually sitting on the street).

Both traditional and newly inspired dishes are on the menu with healthy choices too. The vegetarian Cao Lau, Crispy Tofu peppermint salad, Chicken with Lime Leaves and Seaweed Fish Soup are but a few of our favourites. 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 2241 555 Web: www.restaurant-hoian.com $$ Q Bar While more renowned for its funky lounge atmosphere and first class drinks, Q Bar now also offers an excellent Asian tapas and mains menu. Imbibe and nibble in an atmosphere that couldn’t get slicker. Gyoza, salads, chow mein, Thai and Vietnamese noodle dishes are all prepared to perfection and are by no means expensive. Q bar also has one of the best locations in the old quarter. 94 Nguyen Thai Hoc St +84 (0) 510 391 964 www.qbarsaigon.com $$$ Red Bridge Restaurant & Cooking Class The cooking class at Red Bridge is more famous than for dining at the restaurant, however we see it is one of the most pleasant venues to eat in Hoi An. Being further down the river than the main throng of restaurants it offers tranquility as well as a fantastic menu. We recommend a late lunch followed by sparkling wine and a sunset boat ride back into the old town. Thon 4, Cam Thanh Tel: +84 510 3933 222 Web: www.visithoian.com $$$ Riverside Garden Restaurant Run by the beautiful husband/wife team Huynh and Dung – both from a long hospitality background. Huynh learned how to cook through KOTO and has worked as a chef at the Nam Hai where she met her talented husband Dung, who was a private butler there. The two have created an amazing ambiance on the river and a menu that will tantalize the most discerning of gastronomes. Highly recommended. 181 Cua Dai Road, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3924 459. Email: riversidegardenrest@gmail.com $$$ Rooftop @ Phouc An River Hotel One of the most spectacular views in Hoi An, the seventh floor restaurant offers uninterrupted views and the choice of alfresco dining. Generous servings of delicious Vietnamese food, the minced pork with mustard leaves is exceptional. We recommend a sunset visit. Good wine list and great value. 242 Cua Dai Road, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3924 111 Web:www.phoucanriver.com $$ Sakura Restaurant & Cooking Class This restaurant is majestically located on the

corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Bach Dang streets with a stunning terrace balcony overlooking the river. A long-established restaurant, Sakura’s name may be misleading as the menu is gourmet Vietnamese, not Japanese. Sakura is a great venue to drink in atmosphere of Hoi An, offering a well-executed, comprehensive menu. 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 369 Email: sakurahoian@vnn.vn Web: www.hoiansakura.com $$-$$$ SON Hoi An This charming restaurant on the river has an interesting philosophy – slow food for a slow life. All their dishes are meticulously prepared using fresh, organic ingredients sourced from Tra Que herb garden and the market. Local specialties such as spring rolls, grilled fish and salads are beautifully prepared and taste unbelievably fresh! The setting is so relaxing, you could easily lounge here all day with a book drinking fresh juice or tea. 177 Cua Dai Rd Tel: +84 510 386 1172 / +84 989 501 400 Email: sonhoian@gmail.com Web: www.sonhoian.com $$ Soul Kitchen On the beautiful An Bang beach, enjoy the gourmet delights of Chef Mien whose culinary talents are fast becoming famous as some of the best in town. They have daily specials depending on the market produce and also do French-bistro style foods. Excellent value food, peerless ambiance (the view is spectacular and there are both dining tables or sofas to lounge on) and reasonable prices make this a must-try on your Hoi An trip. Far left, An Bang beach Web: www.soul-kitchen.me $$ STREETS International This modern café offers an excellent menu of local classics and Western sandwiches – their Paninis are the best in town. Also, all the staff are trained under the Streets International program for underprivileged youth, and their English and hospitality skills are second to none. Open for both lunch and dinner, the meals at Streets are delicious and – as the slogan says, it is – ‘Good Food Helping Good Kids’. 17 Le Loi, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 948 Web: www.streetsinternational.org $$ Terrace Café, Palm Garden Resort The beautiful open-air terrace café is offers diners an exception experience of traditional and international cuisine. The architecture embodies the soul of olden day Vietnam, while the view of the tropical garden and fresh breeze of the ocean make the experience all the more special. The breakfast buffet offers a wide selection of Asian and Western cuisine

while there is a specially designed international a la carte menu for dinner. Cua Dai Beach Tel: +84 510 3927 927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn Web: www.palmgardenresort.com.vn $$$ Vertiver Focusing on the gastronomic traditions of Vietnam’s Central region is Vetiver, a new restaurant on the Cua Dai Road featuring a simple menu of real Vietnamese dishes, finely prepared using gourmet, organic ingredients, including a few dishes you won’t find in any other restaurant in town. Prices start at a very reasonable 50,000vnd for a main course or 150,000vnd for a 4 dish set menu. The only restaurant in town serving up Hue’s delicious Hades Rice an absolute must try. 580 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3929 333 Web: www.thevetiver.com $$ Waterfront This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a wellexecuted bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are every Friday from 6 to 8pm. 150 Bach Dang, DN Tel: +84 511 3843 373 Email: info@waterfrontdanang.com Web: www.waterfrontdanang.com $$-$$$ White Caps beach Club & Bistro, Ocean Villas The signature restaurant of the Ocean Villas resort, this beautiful venue offers both a stunning vista and incredible menu of local and Western culinary delights. Dine in a 5 star venue at 3 star prices. We highly recommend their Moroccan inspired Lamb as well as Hoi An classics such as the Cao Lau. Lovely staff will ensure the entire experience is nothing less than exceptional. Tel: +84 511 3967 094 Web: www.theoceanvillas.com.vn $$$ White Marble The first fully-fledged wine bar in Hoi An, White Marble has a prime location on the corner of Nguyen Thai Hoc and Le Loi St. Their great wine selection is complemented by an eclectic tapas menu. This is a fantastic venue for people-watching and quaffing – we highly recommend you stop in to chill after a day of shopping and walking around town. 98 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 862 Web: www.visithoian.com/whitemarble $$-$$$

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Be Unique

Everybody has their own story to tell

Express your unique personality

Get your own essential values

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Hand-engraved on your personal jewellery Original Chain of Life All over the world, people strive to express their own story, unique personality and style. Our idea of a personal piece of jewellery is your possibility to achieve all that.

njoying your holiday? We hope that you are. Now is the time to relax, unwind from everyday life, and think of all the things that makes your life beautiful. It is furthermore the time to make new experiences and explorations. New impressions to take home, to supplement your existing library of valuable memories. All essential parts of your unique story.

We believe that every single person is unique, and has their own amazing story to tell. We are personalizing hand-engraved jewellery, in order to make YOUR piece express exactly what makes you one-of-a-kind.

In ancient times, they used papyrus, to scribble down their stories and legends. Papyrus that has been discovered by archaeologists, to help us know our past, and why the world is, what it is today. Inspired by these papyrus scrolls, our Danish jewellery-designer challenged himself, to make a bracelet with 10 silver scrolls attached to it. Each scroll had one of The Ten Commandments hand-engraved on them, and there was a cross hanging from the especially designed tip of the bracelet. This idea gave birth to Original Chain of Life - Jewellery that speaks for itself. You choose what yours will say, whether it is the names of your kids, your most remarkable memories, motivational quotes or your key to successful living.

Make it yours Have a look at our display in avAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;na, where itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also possible to place your order. If you prefer, you can give us a call, and we will come to your hotel for a free presentation. We can engrave anything you like, to make your piece unique and exclusively yours.

3 easy steps to get the chain of YOUR life: - Note your favourite memories, values or experiences - Choose number of scrolls and a symbol - We deliver your piece tomorrow evening Welcome to our universe, where jewellery speaks for itself.

Danish

Design 1.st class Italian leather, 925 Sterling Silver

Genuine jewellery since 1987 www.OriginalChainofLife.com

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Travel

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Metiseko celebrates its first birthday in

Metiseko:

Magical Imprints

July this year. One of Hoi An’s success stories, the beautiful shop located near the Japanese bridge is one of the few in town that stick to a strong environmental ethic, producing original, high quality home and clothing lines. To celebrate their first anniversary and their new shop in Ha Noi, designer Florence has been working hard to create a new collection inspired by her journey through Vietnam.

Colour and Print Collections: Vietnam Inspirations

Sweet Tropic

Caroline Mills

Traveller

Inspired by the luxuriance of the jungle, this collection travels the tropics. Vibrant, sweet and playful, honouring a range of oranges and corals. The setting showcases a hideand-seek game between a flamingo and a giant lotus forest.

The prints favour a range of natural tones inspired by the sand dunes of Mui Ne which awaken a deep pink and orange inspired by the exotic flowers which cover every traveller’s path.

Soul Blossom

Aquatic Life The old quarter of Hanoi is fragrant with the flower market, locals are fighting over newspaper wrapped bunches and garlands. Quested as offerings, it is spirituality that we can see blooming in the hands of its seekers.

Urban Poetry HCMC’s effervescence has given rise to thousand of little lights, bursting in the sky. A nocturnal poetry of flowers whispering in the streets. Colours are fading and offer warm and refined grey shades. The city’s geometrical order is fusing with the flower’s sensuality to create the urban poetry theme.

Lotus fields dance in a concert of poetry. The show an aquatic symphony where turtles and fish are waltzing on a jade, emerald and lagoon blue sea, heated up by warm caramel tones. Spirits roam a world imprinted with magic.

Asian dream Hoi An, the city of lanterns is waking up at twilight. The multi-cultural influences of the city an inspiration for Metiseko drawing its new print collection, showcasing the lantern lights and traveller’s palm; Metiseko’s emblem. Metiseko 03 ChauThuong Van, +84 (0) 510 3929278, www.metiseko.com

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Shopping

SONG

A Fashionable Vietnamese Tune Caroline Mills

SONG is famous internationally for its

French bohemian chic and casually sophisticated yet ethically-minded clothing collections – the hallmark of the SONG brand. Back in 1997, Valerie Gregori McKenzie, a fashion designer from France, moved to Vietnam and set out to design products using local hand embroidery. Over time, core values were reinforced by fashionable styles, modern graphic elements and luxury casual fabrics with the focus to broaden the line whilst honouring the brand’s rich history with embroidery from Vietnamese artisans. This led SONG into branching out from clothing to handbags, shoes, children’s wear as well as home furnishings, yet always maintaining “le detail fait-main” (the handmade detail) as its brand staple. So began SONG, a story of embroidery, life in Vietnam and the styling of a new emerging country craving for its own fashionable tune. SONG was one of the first design companies to embrace the environment with a sustainable and fair trade policy. Valerie calls it “Luxury Ecology”; a way to preserve artisanal skills.

107 Dying trades like the occidental form of embroidery once popular in Northern Vietnam; a century old traditional craftsmanship originally thought to have been taught by French Dominican nuns, have been preserved with the help of SONG. These skills were passed down the generations, with embroidery providing a secondary income to farmers between crops and the long winter months. Nowadays, villages are emptying as the younger generation choose factory work over farming, leaving villages without economic dynamics and sustainable livelihoods. McKenzie came up with new and alternative ways for these traditional artisans and villages to make a sustainable income – she used her fashion savvy to create designs that would be marketable. It is this kind of work – and McKenzie is a pioneer in this field – that has ensured the SONG brand be officially awarded Fair Trade status. Today, you are able to find SONG products all across the world, with distributors in Australia, Japan, Europe, North America and Southeast Asia (SONG is even carried in the famous Sak’s of New York). In 2012, SONG’s younger sister line, “VALERIE Paris” was launched. With over 6,000 fans on Facebook, VALERIE Paris aims to become one of the most recognized French brands distributed in Vietnam and Southeast Asia. SONG’s Hoi An store is located on the voguish boutique street – Nguyen Thai Hoc – near the corner of Le Loi street and is Hoi An’s first ‘outlet store’ for the brand. The store features a wide range of samples and end of line collections at incredibly discounted prices. As you would expect, the quality is superb and the sizing is European, which is a refreshing change for off-the-rail clothing in Vietnam. As well as items from the new VALERIE collection, the store offers a great selection of men’s wear, home ware and accessories with prices reduced by at least 50% and fixed. If you are lucky enough to be passing by in the first weekend of the month SONG have a ‘flash sale’ with many items priced at just 200,000VND. The sales staff are welcoming, helpful and English speaking and the shop is beautifully laid out welcoming even the most indecisive shopper to browse amongst its merchandise. SONG 76 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street. Tel: +84 510 39160333 Email: info@asiasongdesign.com www.asiasongdesign.com

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LISTING

Shopping Art/Crafts

Waterlily:

Customized Silver Jewellery Amy Morison

Among one of the

trades that Hoi An people are particularly gifted in – to many a shopper’s delight – is jewellery-making. Crafting metals – particularly silverware – has been part of the traditional trades of Central Vietnam for centuries and locals are not only adept at it, but very experienced. It was on this premise that two local businessmen came together to open Waterlily , a jewellery shop that specializes in fully-customizable silver jewellery. Using 92.5% silver and various gemstones sourced throughout Vietnam, their aim is to produce high quality pieces that customers can have tailor-made on site. “We have three silversmiths working with us at the back of the shop, with experience ranging from 7 to 12 years in the trade. They each make one piece per day. Customers are welcome to come back and watch them in the process of making their own jewellery piece – in fact they can watch every stage of the process if they like,” says Mr Nhat, one of the owners. Waterlily also have many readymade pieces on display. Popular items include their jade bracelets as well as the silver earrings with Vietnamese symbols, charm bracelets and pendants for necklaces made with pearls (from Phu Quoc and Halong Bay), Topaz and Onyx. The Vietnamese symbol for long life is also another fashionable choice for shoppers. “We can design anything to specification. We have many catalogues for customers to look at for ideas and can craft something unique for weddings or other special occasions,” Mr Nhat further explained. Waterlily: 311 Nguyen Duy Hieu St water.lilysilver@gmail.com - +84 (0) 510 3939 394 or +84 (0) 937 444 456

Reaching Out Fair Trade Store & Workshop Beautiful handcrafted gifts abound at this Fair Trade outlet in Hoi An. Lacquer ware, bedding, jewellery, table runners, ceramics, bags and clothes are some of the various and unique items on sale here. The artisans have different abilities and are all paid a fair wage with proper benefits. All items are handmade – mostly in the workshop on site – and have fixed prices. You are welcome to check out the workshop at the back; all the artists are happy to show you how they craft their work. 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3910 168 Email: info@reachingoutvietnam.com Web: www.reachingoutvietnam.com

miliar with the Hot Chili brand. Groovy designs on comfortable, high quality cotton fabrics are the cornerstone of this unique brand set up by Australian couple John and Jennie. Now they also have a shop in a prime location on Nguyen Thai Hoc where you can check out other designs, including their signature dress-length t-shirts, swimming costumes and more. They also own the renowned Sao Viet printing company so clients looking to custom-make and print t-shirts in bulk can also contact them. 67 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Tel +84 510 3929 553 Web:http://hotchilifashion.com Web: www.vietnamtshirtprinter.com

Trong Art Gallery Tucked away on the outskirts of the old town lies Trong Art - a gem of a gallery displaying original oil and lacquer paintings by Vietnamese contemporary artists. Highly recommended if you are looking for something unique rather than the usual mass produced art available elsewhere in town.

Ki-Nu Beautiful, bohemian designs by Yoko Loco, a Japanese Hoi An resident creating unique fashion and home wear from recycled Kimono’s. Ki-Nu’s dream is to bring the kimono back into everyday use by sourcing antique and vintage kimono’s and using the fine silks and cottons to create stunning design wear. The intricately tie dyed silk scarves alone are worth tracking this shop down for.

692 Hai Ba Trung St, Tel: +84 (0)989 391486 Email: tronganartist@gmail.com Web: hwww.tronganhgallery.com

188/7 Tran Phu St, Tel: +84 (0)510 3938 778 Email: yoko@ki-nu.jp Web: http://ki-nu.jp/

Fashion

Metiseko Chic indigenous designs on gorgeous fabrics – 100% organic cottons and silks – and tasteful home décor are the essence of this new shop near to the Japanese bridge. Combining fashion know-how with an environmentally sustainable ethos, Metiseko is Hoi An’s coolest new boutique. Check out the overalls for kids – very cute!

avAna A unique boutique which sells original accessories, clothes, shoes, interior wares and children’s wear by expat duo Anna and Ava. Importantly, the pair draw on local materials for their inspiration and work with Hoi An craftspeople to make their designs. Their motto: passion, people, quality. If you want to support local artisans and see some inspiring tropical chic designs, be sure to check out their shop. 57 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 611 Email: info@hoian-design.com Web: www.hoian-design.com Hot Chili If you’re staying in one of Hoi An’s luxury resorts, you’ll probably be fa-

3 Chau Thuong Van St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3929 278 Web: www.metiseko.com SONG This international design house offering fair trade fashion and lifestyle collections, houses its factory shop in Hoi An’s old town. Packed with samples and end of season lines stock it’s a great place to pick up a high quality designer piece at a very good price.

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111 SONG have stores in high-end department stores worldwide and the quality and European sizes reflect this. 76 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An Web: www.asiasongdesign.com Papaya T-Shirts Funky t-shirt designs made with 100% cotton! The original t-shirt design brand in Vietnam. Buy from here and profits help street children in HCMC and underprivileged families in Hoi An. The shirts are high in quality and make for great gifts. Many of designer Thierry’s ideas have been copied (such as the famous iPho t-shirt) but he is always coming up with new and wonderful ideas and we encourage you to buy from the original source – not the copied versions from souvenir shops!

Dingo Deli Gordon and Michele have done us proud. Not only did they open the first proper deli ever to be seen in these here parts but they serve genuine Lavazza coffee too. Their hams and cured meats are shaved to request (they have a proper slicing machine) as are international cheeses. Baking ingredients, pulses, cereals, gourmet teas, Kettle chips, posh dried fruits like cranberry …you name it, they undoubtedly have it. And don’t forget the fresh Dalat milk! Open 8am-8pm. 227 Cua Dai Rd

1 Nguyen Minh Khai St, Hoi An (monkey side of the Japanese bridge) 627 Hai Bai Trung St 164 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An 353 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Web: www.papaya-tshirt.com

Mister T This late-open minimart is the refuge of many a backpacker fresh off the early morning bus as well as the drunken local seeking some nutrition before slumber. They make burgers and baguettes with sausages to order, as well instant noodles, coffee/ tea, readymade sandwiches (cheese and ham 35,000VND), fresh veggies or cut fruit and plenty of snacks, sweets, booze and toiletries.

Gourmet Grocers

639 Hai Ba Trung St

A Mart This lime-coloured minimart has two branches. Both offer a fabulous range of imported cheeses, meats, cereals (such as weetabix, alpine mueslis), Lay’s imported crisps, juices, HP sauce, Heinz baked beans and plenty of other condiments from the West. They also stock Schweppes Dry Ginger Ale and Gatorade. Prices are fixed. Open 7am10pm

Jewellery

552 Ha Ba Trung 29 Cua Dai Rd Bich Thuy Mini Mart & Wine Husband and wife team Thuy and Hien run this local business which has one of the best selections of wine and spirits in Hoi An. The couple go out of their way to help you. Prices aren’t fixed but they are fair and will definitely respond if you mention ‘Amy’ or show them Live Hoi An magazine. They have some great biscuits, crisps and other gourmet goods too. Open 9am-10pm. 318 Ly Thuong Kiet St

Lotus Jewellery Beautiful handmade jewellery of silver and various local materials including beautiful stones sourced from abroad. Every design in this shop is original and there are some excellent locallyinspired pieces which make for great keepsakes to take home. Only pure silver and high quality items are sold here and prices are reasonable and fixed. 82 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 53A Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3911 664 Web: www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com Shoes

Shoe Shop 09 Expect great quality custom-made shoes from this long-time family shoemaking business. They have readymade designs or can tailor to your own specific designs. All 100% leather, quality made soles. Ms Tuong and her team actually specialise in leather products too, so besides shoes you

can find a fantastic range of handbags, purses and stylish leather jackets. 65 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3863573 Email: tuong2002@hotmail.com Tong Art Shoes Find exceptional shoes at Anna Moi’s shoe gallery in Hoi An. Pure leather, comfortable yet chic shoes feature in this trendy new addition to Hoi An. Anna’s signature ‘thong boot’ is a musttry item, combining a flip flop and knee boot together. She has plenty of artful designs to get soleful about, but there are also shoes for men. All soles are handcrafted with the best materials and Anna only uses 100% leather – guaranteed. 26 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3915202 Email: tonghoian@gmail.com

Tailors Dung Tailor Dung Tailor was one of the first tailors in Hoi An, having opened this family store in 1994 to serve foreign tourists. Unlike other outlets, all the tailoring is done within the shop. Locally-based, foreign-owned boutiques also request Mr Dung and family to tailor their designs, so customers can be reassured of this family business’ good reputation. Their friendliness and honesty provide more reason to choose this tailor over the myriad of other outlets in Hoi An. 23 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3863865 / 905 945 956 Email: duyen_dung38@yahoo.com

Lana Allure Lana Allure looks no different from any other tailor in town, but you only need to step inside to see that this is a serious tailor shop. The staff are highly skilled, they know their trade front to back and are not afraid to challenge design ideas and unusually, to recommend more time to be invested into more complex items. They even offer a 2 year guarantee on their tailoring. 90 Le Loi St, Hoi An Tel: +84 510 3929 559 Yaly Couture Yaly Couture is renowned for making highly exquisite, fashionable clothes, made to measure. One of the few tailors who have exhibited their craftsmanship on the catwalk, you can be guaranteed luxurious and quality products from this company. Yaly are famous in Vietnam and with good reason – high quality materials, craftsmanship and service are exceptional. They also have a great range of custom-made leather shoes, jackets and handbags – see their new shop on Tran Hung Dao St. 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hoi An 47 Tran Phu St, Hoi An 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu St, Hoi An 22 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An (Yaly Leather) Tel: +84 510 3910474 / 3861119 / 3914 995 Email: quynh@yalycouture.com Web: www.yalycouture.com

a pure nature spa • A clean, safe, calming and nurturing environment.

60 mins facial treatment

460.000

• International day spa standard facility.

65 mins full body massage

380.000

40 mins scrub treatment

330.000

• Five private double treatment rooms for each

50 mins wrap treatment

350.000

clients receiving a personal service.

40 mins hot paraffin treatment

290.000

• Professional, licensed estheticians and massage

25 mins spa manicure or pedicure

165.000

• Private showering and changing facilities with robes, towels, slippers and lockers provided.

therapists. • Exclusive use of professional spa products by Azial and Rendez-Vous, 100% natural and organic ingredients. • OPI international nail products used for manicure

Happy hour : 65 minutes full body massage:

10am to 2pm - get 10% discount.

• Spa saving packages are available. For further

Nail care deluxe & facial treatment:

1pm to 6pm - get 10% discount.

information please visit our website.

Facial treatment & body scrub or wrap: 6pm to 9pm - get 15% discount.

and pedicures.

Certificate of Excellence 2011 tripadvisor

A: 90 Ba Trieu - Hoi An Tel: 0510 3 933 999 - M: 0916.126.126

www.palmarosaspa.com

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Health and Wellness

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VIE:

An Entirely Different World of Spa

ESORT AND SPA

HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA

Amy Morison

I imagined a stylish, subterranean sanctuary Tray – a hiddenScrub world in the theme of a Henri Mouhot quote. Where treatment rooms were veiled from view and built along a canyon-like gallery. Water flowed in labyrinthine form, connecting ponds where lotus flowers grew, delicately; colourfully. The haven would be fringed by an open landscaped garden, peppered with yoga pavilions, tranquil ponds and a swimming pool. Guests would be able to see the mountains and island-shadowed seascapes, but wouldn’t be seen – a genuinely covert health and wellness utopia.

This is what I imagined more than 4 years ago when I was given the architect’s synopsis of what is now VIE spa at the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa. Did I romanticize? Yes. Was I disappointed when I experienced Massage Bed Decoration VIE spa for myself just recently? Absolutely not. Mouhot waxed quixotic about constructs of sophisticated grandeur with fair reason – and as far as I’m concerned, when it comes to the spas of Central Vietnam, VIE spa is the Angkor Wat. Upon entering the lobby of VIE spa, you’re immediately greeted with Spa Entry– soothing colours and aromasMassage Bed Decoration by a calm ambiance are complemented professional staff whose chief objective is to create a guest-centric space. Firstly, you’re ushered into an air-conditioned lounge with curvaceous private booths where a spa therapist discusses your treatment whilst you are served a refreshing tea and iced cold face towel.

the balance of “am-duong”, the Vietnamese phrase for mind-body connection. VIE spa treatments and products thus take inspiration from their native surrounds and fall into three categories: Mountain Air, Expansive Sea and Pure Earth. It is worthwhile pointing out that while VIE spa exerts all of Hyatt’s international operational standards, it is also an individual spa and – also in line with one of Hyatt’s key principles – is culturally sensitive and inspired by ancient Vietnamese healing processes. The spa uses both Scrub Tray the internationally famous Scrub facial Tray products of June Jacobs in addition to their own customized products that comprise of locally-sourced herbs and essences.

My therapist explained that I was to experience the Mountain Air VIE complete package (valued at 5,050,000VND) – a 4 hour process including massage, wrap and facial. I was escorted through a serene privatized courtyard to an even more serene private treatment room. In fact, the word ‘room’ does not do justice. It was almost like a villa – with a door that opened into a front garden which housed an outdoor tub, a treatment room (with masTreatment Room Outdoor Bath sage table, chaise lounge and coffee table), and an expansive bathroom Sparain Entry with exterior shower and steam room.. Before I even started treatment, I felt at ease and my body relaxed. A room DOWNLOAD IMAGE like those at VIE will tendFULL to have thatPACKAGE effect on a person. My therapist » CLICK HERE « commenced with the Acubalancing massage, a treatment that applies traditional Vietnamese acupressure to the body, using eucalyptus and aloe wood oils. Following this sheSpa began the Aloe Wood Envelopment, rubbing Entry local herbs rau ma (a product of collagen that heals tissues and promotes circulation) and an aloe wood resin (for toning the digestive system and acting as an anti-inflammatory) all over my body. I was then enveloped in a proper spa insular wrap for about 15 minutes – imagine a body-size alfoil pad swathed around you and you’ll get the idea. I could definitely hear my skin uttering thanks to the spa master and all the magical ingredients at work. After treatment, I enjoyed a thorough shower before my facial. Applying June Jacob’s renowned products (think uber-healthy, beautifying tea and exotic fruit extracts in creams) my therapist finished with my face feeling 10 years younger. VIE spa is open every day and offers various treatments. Massages start at 1,999,000VND and packages from 3,150,000VND. Outdoor Bath

Treatment Room

Massage Bed Decoration Outdoor Bath

The premise of VIE – which means Life – is to offer treatments that restore Massage Bed Decoration Scrub Tray Spa Entry

Treatment Room

VIE Spa: Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa - Tel: +84 511 398 1234 Spa Entry Web: http://danang.regency.hyatt.com

DOWNLOAD FULL IMAGE PACKAGE

Outdoor Bath

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Health and Wellness

Medical Family Medical Practice Da Nang For anything serious or if you want a general check-up in an international standard clinic, this is the most renowned medical facility in the Central Coast region. The clinic is managed by Dr Ross Bernays, a native Australian GP with many years experience in Vietnam. Family Medical Practice offers 24 hour emergency care as well as emergency evacuation. They are also are aligned with numerous international health insurance providers and provide direct billing to customers. 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang Tel: (0511) 3582-699/700 Emergency: 09 13 917 303 www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Pacific Hospital A private facility with 24 hour emergency care and international equipment. They do provide direct billing with certain health providers, have English-speaking doctors and can arrange hotel visits and pick-ups. However, we recommend Family Medical for major emergencies such as trauma. 06 Phan Dinh Phung St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3921 398 Women’s Hospital Da Nang’s new women’s hospital has recently been updated and offers exceptional care for women from pre to post natal and general care. English speaking doctors, up to date facilities and equipment and very reasonable prices. 26C Chu Van An, Da Nang Tel: +84 (0)511.2222059 Web: www.womenshospital.vn Marie Stopes Clinic The Marie Stopes clinic is an internationally respected organisation specialising in women’s health and family planning issues. The staff here are superb and have a real empathy for their patients. This clinic comes highly recommended by expats and tourists alike. There opening hours are MonFri 07.30 – 12.00 and 13.00 -19.30 with a reduced service at weekends.

LISTING

A cut above:

47 Le Dinh Ly, Vinh Trung Ward, Da Nang Tel: +84 58 3817158 Veterinarian, Dr Hung Dr Hung is an English speaking vet who comes highly recommended. As well as providing all the usual inoculations and emergency care for your pet, Dr Hung is registered to microchip and handle the certificate to take your pet on domestic and international flights. 44/11 Hai Ho St, Hai Chau District, Da Nang. Tel: +84 (0)905295336

sk any expat where they go for a haircut in town and invariably the reply will be “Tuan boy“. This small, independent salon has built up a solid business in the heritage town, largely due to the skills and personality of its owner - who, unsurprisingly, is called Tuan.

Massage and Spa Aly Spa & Beauty Salon Nicely fitted spa in a good location. Excellent treatments at a reasonable cost. Highly recommended are the body massage, including the aromatherapy healing popular ‘Imperial Jade’ treatment which includes hot stone therapy. Moreover, the ‘Together Forever’ package is a refreshing treatment that has a reviving effect on the skin. It involves a pomelo and lemongrass bath and steam, massage with local herbs and a collagen facial treatment. 49 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3917 972 Email: alyspahoian@yahoo.com Countryside Charm Massage A favourite with locals and expats, Ms Vinh is an experienced masseur, with over 6 years experience at the Victoria Hotel’s Tamarind Spa as a senior spa therapist. She has a comprehensive spa menu with hot stone therapies, body scrubs and various massage techniques available. Her reasonable costs, charming smile and friendly nature make this spa all the more appealing. Discounts apply to any guest that mentions the magazine. Professional hourly body massages start at 250,000VND. 512 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3501 584 +84 (0)979 497 454 Email: duyenquehoian@gmail.com

Tuan has been in the hairdressing business for 18 years and has an impressive number of qualifications under his belt. In 2006 he added a Tony & Guy certification to his credentials and is quite famous in Central Vietnam having worked on various celebrities including the Queen of Austria and Miss Universe. “I love to learn new styles – I follow the international styles and seasons and go overseas regularly to update my techniques. I’m always interested in developing the business by making it as professional as possible, and to an international standard,“ says Tuan. Tuan only uses international products such as L’Oreal and Schwarzkopf. He offers a number of salon services besides hair styling and colouring, including manicures, pedicures, hair extensions and perm, etc. Everyone who asks for a shampoo and hair cut always gets a fabulous massage too!

10%

Show advert to receive discount 148 Nguyen Truong To St Tel: 0905 960 365- 0905 381 597

118 Essence Of Health Tucked away amongst peaceful rice paddies on the outskirts of Hoi An town lies Essence of Health, a unique, holisticretreat incorporating daily Yoga, Tai Chi, Meditation ,Qi Gong and martial arts classes, alongside a treatment menu based around traditional Chinese medicine, Tuina and acupuncture. Essence of Health came to fruition from an idea born in the minds of Dominique and Brigitte – who have both been practicing Chinese Medicine for 7 years – whose approach to health is inspired and inspiring. +84 (0) 510 650 6616 +84 (0) 949 925 860 info@essenceofhealth.vn www.essenceofhealth.vn Fusion Lounge Sister to the decadent Fusion Maia Resort, the new lounge retains the chic design of the resort, yet provides a relaxed environment from which to indulge in. Delicious coffee, pastries and to top it all they have a spa upstairs. We highly recommend the express massage. 34 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi. Tel: +84 (0)510 3911700 Life Spa Life Resort’s well-deserved reputation as a health and wellness sanctuary could not be better encapsulated than in their Hoi An spa. Treat yourself to Life Spa’s signature Vietnamese Synchrony Four-Hands Massage (VND1,500,000). Double the relaxation, as two therapists massage your aching muscles into blissful submission for 80 minutes. For those with a little more time on your hands, we recommend Life Spa’s unique Journey to the Far East(VND1,970,000), which includes a foot bath, massage (which employs seven customized techniques of both Eastern and Western massage traditions), a body scrub and body wrap. 1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3914 555 Web: www.life-resorts.com

Palmarosa Spa Hoi An’s first legitimate day spa. Palmarosa offers professional, modern facilities and services at very reasonable prices. They use the esteemed Azial, Rendez-vous and O.P.I brands for the spa and beauty products. They also have proper shower/changing rooms with complimentary locker, towel, robe and steam and sauna facilities. The atmosphere and calming ambiance is one of a resort day spa yet their prices are similar to those of a small independent spa. Massage treatments of 75 minutes average at 350,000VND. 90 Ba Trieu St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3933 999 Web: www.palmarosaspa.com Tamarind Spa The Tamarind Spa is rated highly in Hoi An, if not all of Vietnam. They offer a plethora of spa and massages treatments such as aromatherapy, Thai, Swedish, Hot Stone, Indian, traditional (plus more treatments), among other salon service. For peerless service, treatment and an unmatched ambience, it’s worth splashing out and treating yourself to an experience here. Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort & Spa Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)510 3927 040 http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com Hair Salon Tuan Boy Hair Salon Tuan has cut hair all over Asia and won awards for his expert hair colouring. He has styled the hair of the Miss Universe candidates, cut the Queen of Austria’s hair and been the expert consultant for various actors filming in the heritage town of Hoi An. He is by far the expat favourite in town and also offers a decent hair shampoo/ conditioning massage and cut prices. He is Tony & Guy certified, uses only international products and he has a price list printed out which are fixed and reasonable. 148 Nguyen Truong To St, Hoi An Tel: +84 (0)905 960 365 / (0)905 381 597

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Family

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Fynn: Living in Hoi An is pretty much number one, 'cos it's very nice. There's not much pollution, a lot of greenery, and not too crowded like Ha Noi. Max: I just made a crossbow. I'm probably going to go to the rice paddies and shoot fish and give them to my neighbours. I got the idea off the computer, I was watching people firing crossbows and it looks really cool, so I asked a woodwork guy to help me.

Family life:

Max and Fynn’s Take on Hoi An Caroline Mills

Hoi An is fast being recognised as the

perfect family destination, with its clean lifeguarded beaches and open countryside there are few places left in the Western world where a child can be so free and safe. Over the last couple of years more and more families have relocated here from big cities to take advantage of a slower, more family-orientated lifestyle. With this growing community comes more educational choices and Hoi An is waking up to catering to every visitor no matter their age. We interviewed Max Ryan (11) and Fynn Tran(8) on what it’s like to live here. Their mothers’ – Catherine and Sue – together run Green Shoots, Hoi An’s first licensed infant school. Fynn: Even school's very fun. People are nice to you, the teachers don't always give you the answer they just help you. Max: I think the thing I like most is that I have a lot of freedom, so I can go out and play in the street with my friends. In Australia I couldn't do anything like that. I play a lot with the kids in my street catching lizards and stuff, and we play 'nammuoi' (hide and seek).

Green Shoots +84 (0)150 3924854 - email: s-ryan@greenshootseducation.org www.greenshootseducation.org

LISTING Art Classes with Hannah – 3 Dragons Sundays at 4pm. Add: 51 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An Tel: 0120 883 2152 Camp Hyatt - Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa Camp Hyatt is a perfect place for kids to hang out, with entertainment all year round including a rock climbing wall, surfing and swimming lessons. Babysitting service available. Web: www.hyatt.com Add: Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Da Nang Beach - Tel: 0511 398 1234 Dingo Deli Playground & Activities – Dingo Deli Dingo Deli have recently refurbished their ‘Taj Mahal’ playground for the kids whilst you can enjoy sipping an iced Lavazza Coffee! They also offer educational programmes for children. Web: www.dingodeli.com Add: 229 Cua Dai Rd, Hoi An Tel: 0510 653 5459 Golf at Montgomerie Links The whole family can have fun playing golf at Montgomerie Links, check their website for special promotions– in some cases kids may play for free! Web: www.montgomerielinks.com Tel: +84 (510) 3941 942 Green Shoots Hoi An’s first registered international kin-

dergarten. Fully qualified foreign teachers. Daily shuttle bus from Danang. Upcoming programmes for older children. Tel: 0510 3924 854 or 012 0355 3171 Email: s.ryan@greenshootseducation.org Sunrise Kid’s Club – Sunrise Resort A getaway of fun in the sun awaits your little ones at The Kids Club. Children aged 3-12 are invited to a daily schedule of games and activities! Add: Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Web: www.sunrisehoian.vn/kids/the-kidsclub Tel: 0510 393 7777 Surf Lessons with Dale Dale’s paddle board and surf lessons are open to beginner and intermediate levels. Tel: 0120 3976 102 Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort Victoria offer a wide range of recreational activities for all ages including beach sports, boat excursions and a professional child care centre with plenty of activities for the kids. Web: www.victoriahotels.asia Add: Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: 0510 3927 040 Yoga with Stephanie Stephanie offers Hatha and Yin Yoga classes for students of all ages, levels of fitness and flexibility. Web: www.hoianyoga.com Tel: 0168 874 1406

Around Hoi An Cham Islands These exquisitely preserved islands comprise of eight islets altogether and offer the best diving in Vietnam. Brimming with marine life and corals from 5m to 30m below the water, these islands could be described as a diver’s paradise. The main Cham Island has a small, friendly community and harbours some beautiful beaches and jungle. The best option for diving, snorkeling or sailing tours out to the island would be to organize through the Cham Island Diving Center (www.chamislanddiving.com).

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Marble Mountains The Marble Mountains are a cluster of five distinctive hills famous for their limestone and marble contents. Considered a holy site for Buddhists, the pagodas, shrines and cave grottos within the mountains are unique and beautiful. However, the mountains have become quite ‘touristy’ over recent years and it is best to visit either early morning or late afternoon else the normally serene space is not exactly peaceful at all. You can buy a map at the ticket gate which explains where to find certain attractions within the mountains and you’ll be surprised how much there is to explore.

Bach Ma National Park Bach Ma National Park was a favourite residential area among the foreign elite during the French occupation. Today this sprawling 22,031 hectare national preserve harbours some of Vietnam’s most unique wildlife – efforts to regenerate areas cleared by either settlement or war have been very successful. In fact, species that were thought extinct have re-emerged in this wonderful forest sanctuary, including the Argus and Edwards’ pheasants. For those who enjoy the outdoors, Bach Ma will provide the ideal adventure, and is a mere 3 hours from Danang. Do check the weather though, this is the wettest place in the country and October and November see the most rain.

BaNa Hills Ba Na Hills is located on Chua Mountain in the Truong Son Mountains, 30km from the centre of Da Nang City. French colonists started developing Ba Na in the early 20th Century and now with its temperate climate and beautiful scenery, it is a very popular one day tour or even overnight stay. Experience the cable car to the hill station and take in the spectacular views over the East Sea and distant mountain ranges.

My Son Regarded as Vietnam’s most significant archaeological site, My Son is a must-see sanctuary for any visitor exploring Central Vietnam. The temple remnants once served as the country’s chief place of worship during the Champa Kingdom which peaked in Vietnam over 500 years ago. Visitors will see architectural influences from Cambodia, China and India in the unique stone vestiges. Plenty of tour operators have buses to My Son which last for a half day and cost around US$14. Ask your hotel for details or consult our listings. Alternatively, hire a motorbike taxi to escort you – if you leave early you will miss the main throng of tourists and can stop and start as you please along the way. The journey itself is wonderfully picturesque.

Hue Once Vietnam’s capital, the imperial city still exudes a regal personality that is unmatched throughout the country. For avid historians this is a must visit town – especially the Citadel, home to the forbidden city where only emperor’s and those closest to them were allowed within its walls. Hue also boasts some of the country’s finest cuisine, having been a city that was home to the royal family the best chefs in Vietnam were handpicked by emperors to concoct special recipes. Of course commoners were banned from eating such cuisine but these days visitors can feast in a truly royal fashion during their stay.

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Travel

Paradise Found:

125

Cavernous Central Vietnam

A Exploration in

Amy Morison

124

It could be a scene straight

out of a Jules Verne novel. Gigantic stalactites, lit up in fantastical green and bluish hues, mushroom out from a slippery, dripping canopy. The natural detail of each limestone formation is extraordinarily surreal; similar to a 3D sci-fi flick, causing you to think for a moment you’re on the set of ‘Forbidden Planet’ or are, in fact, journeying to the centre of the earth. It’s difficult to describe how infinitely impressive this cave – without drawing from the works of fantasy authors or filmmakers – actually is. And it’s just one in a cluster of caves found within the forestry reserves of Phong Nha-Ke Bang national park. Aptly called ‘Paradise Cave’ it is the most stunning of the gargantuan, recordsetting caves in the area that is also accessible to visitors.

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127 While most Vietnamese are now familiar with the popular Phong Nha Cave, Paradise Cave (called Thiên Đường in Vietnamese) only became open to visitors in late 2010 and has been tastefully – and sustainably – structured with tourist walkways that serve to conserve its awe-inspiring, calcified walls. While it is certainly gaining more attention from tourists, the ticketing structure and well-guarded wooden pathway and platforms that give visitors access to the cave, also manage to maintain a reverent, whispery atmosphere that is deserving of such a sacred site. Having been in this country for well over 4 years, it’s a rarity to find such a spectacular natural attraction that has not been exploited and partly ruined by the over-population of tourists (both foreigners and locals). I have to give credit to the Truong Thinh Group who built the roads and exceptional tourist facilities at the cave. Paradise Cave was discovered by Ho Khanh – a local who would often trek into the jungle in search of rare medicinal plants – in 2005. Ho Khanh also found what is now known as the world’s largest cave – Son Doong – in the national park. He actually stumbled upon the mouth of Son Doong back in 1991 but couldn’t find it again until a lucky rediscovery in 2009. Son Doong gained the title of world’s largest cave late 2010 (surpassing the Deer Cave in Malaysia) after a report was made public by the British Cave Research Association and an article published in National Geographic. It is not yet open to tourists. However, Paradise Cave is the second largest cave (so far among those found in the region) and is more impressive than the Phong Nha Cave, which seems to be teeming with tourist boats going up and down the accessible river route. The walk into Paradise Cave is pleasant; a woodland rainforest trail, with a few steep stairs takes you up to the main entrance point. Reaching the peak before the entrance can be exhaustive in the heat, but as soon as you enter the cave’s mouth, a cool misty air envelops you, offering perfect reprieve to enjoy the sights. The interior of the cave is lined with stalactites and stalagmites that range in height – many that I saw were as high as an Olympic pool. The lighting, which I would normally be sceptical about in the land of all things garishly neon, is actually well-chosen and creates a fitting ambiance. There are ample platform areas with seats to stop and take photographs or just admire the tremendous setting. I also appreciated the fact that security guards were not shy to quietly reprimand those who attempted to step off the walkway – and on one occasion, I saw a

guard make a tourist pick up their abandoned water bottle and put it in the recycle bin. I gave the man a big smile and nod of gratitude – again, it is not common to see such dedication to preserving nature in this part of the world – and those who do should be acknowledged and appreciated. The deal with any of the caves or sights within the Phong Nha– Ke Bang national park is that you have to go with a licensed tour operator. As fair as I’m concerned, it’s best to make arrangements with Ben and Bich at Phong Nha Farmstay (and stay with them – they seriously have the best accommodation in the area). Our tour costs were way lower than the competing tour company (I won’t mention the name, you can easily figure it out) and our guide, Dave, not only had an encyclopaedic knowledge of Phong Nha (including a number of insightful war stories – it was one of the most heavily bombed areas in the country), but delivered his repertory with good-humoured Aussie aplomb. While Paradise Cave was the highlight of the day trip, we visited many other notable attractions – my second favourite activity being a swim in a beautiful turquoise pool. The water was that gorgeous ultra-marine colour typical of an area scattered with limestone karsts and caves (the region has a number of them – Halong Bay and Krabi are a few that come to mind). It is magical to swim in this type of water and my photos unfortunately do not do the billabong we visited proper justice.

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Phong Nha Farmstay The Original Accommodation and Tour Facility for Foreigners visiting Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Located on the outskirts of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, Phong Nha Farmstay features colonial style verandas overlooking a breathtaking panorama of rice paddies and the karsts of the Son Truong Mountain Range as a backdrop. We are the original tour and accommodation facility for tourists – having helped open this area up to foreign visitors – and through providing the best information and customer service the area has to offer. Along the way, Dave further indulged us with cultural stories and stop-offs for photos of the countryside and people. We also managed a kayak trip and swim into the Dark Cave, another cool little adventure in our day trip and we ended our sojourn aptly with a cold brew back at the farmstay. Or course it was perfectly timed so that we go to watch the sunset over the pristine, lush green rice paddies in front of the guesthouse.

Getting there You can head out to Phong Nha a number of ways – by private car, a train to Dong Hoi (and then a private car or motorbike transfer), motorbike (DIY or with a tour) or by direct mini-van from Da Nang to Phong Nha Farmstay. For more information about the area and its tour visit: http://phong-nha-cave.com You can also contact Ben or Bich directly at Phong Nha Farmstay: 094-475-9864 (Ben's mobile), 097-642-5332 (Bich's mobile) 052-367-5135 (Office) or phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com

We have: Air-conditioned private rooms as well as dormitory accommodation, full bar and restaurant facilities (Western and Vietnamese menus), swimming pool, friendly, English-speaking staff. There are no Hawkers at the Farmstay, as we are off the beaten track! We offer activities and tours for all levels of fitness and types of interests such as: trekking, camping, spelunking, tubing, kayaking, bicycling and motorbiking.

Examplesofoftours toursorganized organizedthrough throughus: us: Examples 7kmday daytrip tripinto intoParadise ParadiseCave Cave ••AA7km Kayaking1.5km 1.5kminto intoPhong PhongNha Cave Nha Cave ••Kayaking dayKayaking Kayakingtour touron onthe theSon SonChay ChayRiver River ••IIday daytrek, trek,camping campingininHang HangEn Swollow En SwollowCave and Cave andvisiting visiting ••22day theBan BanDoong DoongMinortity MinortityVillage. Village. the www.phong-nha-cave.com - phongnhafarmstay@gmail.com +84 (0) 523675135

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Travel

131

Royal Tombs

Colourful Hue:

Vietnam’s Cultural Centre Right in the centre of Vietnam, Hue was the former nation’s capital and to this day, is really the grand old dame of Vietnam. The historic and contemporary converge in Hue to form a city that is well-worth taking your time to experience properly. Many travelers view Hue as a transit city – a place to spend one night at most. But we encourage you to take your time in the Imperial city to soak up the true grandeur of its many sights and culinary delights.

Tu Duc: The romantic ‘Emperor Poet’ Tu Duc built his main sepulcher and the tomb of his first wife within a cylindrical garden that is befitting of traditional Feng Shui principles. There is a pond in the centre and on the outskirts are the tombs, pagodas and temples, all set within beautiful woodlands. Beyond sightseeing, this is a nice place to go for a picnic – the grounds are so peaceful. Ming Mang: This is a truly magnificent tomb complex that should be listed as one of the great wonders of the world – built to pure symmetric perfection, the series of pagodas and lakes are set within spherical grounds. Tranquil and regal at the same time, you can easily spend a few hours contemplating this awesome construct. Gia Long: Located quite far down along the Perfume River, Gia Long’s tomb is not as visited as some of the other tombs but certainly warrants exploration. Designed with the same principles as his predecessors, the tomb is impressive but when you add in the view and overall ambiance it goes from impressive to spectacular. Khai Dinh: This lavishly built tomb is on a mountain slope and also has magnificent views of the surrounding pine forests. Since he was the last emperor, Khai Dinh’s tomb features modern materials – mosaic style ceramics and gold tiling feature inside the main room. If ‘King Bling’ was a term used in last century parlance, then Khai Dinh’s tomb would encapsulate it.

Beyond the Citadel, there are a myriad of tombs built by previous emperors which exude a true ‘wow’ factor. They are nothing less than awe-inspiring; their symmetrical construction, lavish décor and locations (most are built in beautiful hamlets or mountain slopes overlooking the river).

Garden Houses

Overview of Sights: Citadel You will get plenty of textbook detail on the Citadel in the Lonely Planet and it is a mustvisit sight on your itinerary. The flag is Vietnam’s highest standing. Inside the main entrance you will be led to a greeting hall and then ‘citadels within citadels’ where the royal family used to reside. Much of the structures remain under restoration (a lot was obliterated during the last war and the complex is huge) but you can capture the essence of its opulent architecture and the design in what is currently on display.

There are several traditional houses that the mandarins of the Nguyen dynasty resided in that are still standing today. They feature yin/yang properties and the unique timberwork and relics of the resplendent royal past. Many have been converted into restaurants including the popular Tinh Gia Vien and Ancient Hue. Other sights of Hue include the Tiger Arena, the famous Thien Mu Pagoda (which houses the Austin motorbike which monk Thich Quang Duc drove to HCMC before self-immolating in protest to President Diem’s regime in 1963), the Hon Chen Temple, the National School and the Incense Making and Conical Hat village, are just some more attractions that the city has to offer.

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Rendezvous at La Residence:

After travelling down the

Lavish Overnight Stay

east coast of Vietnam from the forested borders of Phong Nha-Ke Bang national park – a stunningly beautiful, but lengthy drive down the undeveloped coastline – a trio of weary, bleary-eyed (and I have to admit rather grubby) voyagers arrived at the steps of La Residence boutique hotel. Hot and flustered with the late March weather, the friendly, promptly acting staff greeted us in spectacular fashion. Bags were whipped up efficiently by the concierge and we were ushered into the plush lobby lounge for a refreshing iced lemongrass tea whilst confirming our check-in details. Designed to highlight the period in which this handsome building was originally constructed – La Residence is the former French colonial Governer’s house – art-deco typefaces feature prominently amongst ornate furnishings and decor. Geometric black and white tiled floors, lavish chaise and velour cocktail sofas – reminiscent of those elegant 1930s cinema and ocean-liner interiors – and vintage artwork enhance the crystalline contours of La Residence’s characteristic architecture. Just sitting in the lobby lounge will afford the impression of a colonial epoch; an age of elegance and extravagance. Before venturing to our rooms, we were invited for a sundowner cocktail at the back of the hotel’s signature restaurant Le Parfum. Overlooking the perfume river (hence the name), iconic Thien Mu pagoda and the hotel’s gorgeous gardens (again, the trimmed geometric hedges and lawn, peppered with exotic tropical flowers, enhance that romantic stylishness of a bygone era), we enjoyed refreshing Mojitos whilst the yolk of the sun slowly disappeared behind the horizon, distributing a lovely pinkish hue over the surrounds. After relaxing into the pace of Hue after our long day, we each decided to head to our rooms to rejuvenate for a few hours before dinner. Whilst the hallmark of the hotel is its vintage ambiance and decor, the rooms feature all the modern luxuries one

would hope for in a boutique, 5-star establishment. Large flat screen TV, high speed wifi, sizable wardrobe space, uber-comfortable bed with feather down pillows and – perhaps the notable feature – a substantial bathroom with a chic 1930s style tub. Before anything else, I had a quick shower and ran a bath. After arranging my clothes for dinner, I entered the warm waters with a glass of wine in hand and a book to enjoy almost an entire hour of calm bliss. It was just what was needed after a day of travel. Whilst we dined in an outside venue for dinner (the decadent new La Carambole restaurant adjacent to the citadel) we came back to the hotel for evening cocktails and a game of pool the lobby area before bed. I had possibly the best sleep I had experienced in a year. It may sound like an exaggeration, but honestly, the bed was that comfortable. When I awoke I went downstairs to be greeted by one of the most sumptuous buffet spreads I have seen in this part of the region. Colourful fruit displays, perfect made-to-order eggs, pancakes, hash browns, bacon, the whole wonderful works, including Vietnamese staples Pho (noodle soup) and Chao (rice congee). Not to mention the artistry of the bakers on display – their fresh-baked breads and pastries are indeed some of the finest in the country. However, my extravagant breakfast was soon superseded by a superlative experience at Le Spa with a special four-hands massage. Whilst having my body expertly kneaded by two very talented therapists, my two friends walked down to the decorous dragon boats on the river next to the hotel to go exploring. To complete our experience we had a swim in the sun-bathed pool before checking-out. Not content to leave the hotel for an outside lunch venue before heading to Hoi An, we settled for a light meal of smoked salmon sandwiches and Vietnamese delicacies (such as banh beo – a specialty of Hue – and fresh spring rolls) accompanied by Mimosas on the outdoor terrace of Le Parfum restaurant. The overall synopsis of our La Residence experience? Absolute perfection. La Residence: 5 Le Loi St - Tel: +84 (0) 5 4383 7475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com - Web: www.la-residence-hue.com

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135 The jungle clad mountains surrounding Jungle Beach are home to two rare breeds of monkeys, Doug Langurs and Lorises which if you can tear yourself from the beach to wallow in the waterfall you might spot on your trek.

Doc Let Beach:

Pure Island Escapism

For those of you looking for something a little more boutique, then you would be hard pushed to find a more beautiful retreat than the charming Ki-Em Arthouse, which is a 4 star, nine villa resort, set further up the coastline of Doc Let. It’s a relatively new eco resort showcasing unique local artwork. Ki-Em Arthouse caters for

Caroline Mills

If you are looking

for a perfect stretch of deserted beach on which to play shipwrecked for a few days and you are heading south, there’s a little place I know of the squeaky sand variety that you might just want to check out – Doc Let Beach (otherwise known as Jungle Beach).

I first heard of the legend of Doc Let whilst on a small island in Thailand having left the UK with a one way ticket, a 12 kilo rucksack and dreams of discovering the next ‘Beach’. Back then it was one of those well-kept travelers secrets, whispers of Goa before the hippies descended, a desert island beach hidden amongst a jungle encased waterfall feeding in to crystal clear lagoons. 12 months, 2 countries and a certain amount of disillusion of ever truly stepping off the tourist path, I glimpsed my first view of Doc Let – disappointingly on the bus on the way to the Blackpool of Vietnam – Nha Trang (in case you had not yet noticed, I’m not a fan).

It’s comfortingly difficult to get to, with very few places to stay, but tucked away on a 3 acre beach plot you will find your utopia – Jungle Beach – which is run by Canadian Sylvio Lamarche. Sylvio discovered his little slice of paradise 10 years ago on a canoe and set up a beautifully simple, bamboo retreat of netted cabana’s and hammocks right on the beach, he called it “1000 star accommodation” referring to the view from your bed of the countless stars. Since its humble beginnings, Sylvio has worked hard to keep Jungle Beach in balance with its environment, adding basic huts and recently, two-level thatched bungalows, everything built from sustainable materials and with the nearest neighbor being 7kms away, unless you counter in the wildlife.

guests that seek a little luxury with their escapism offering individually styled bungalows, tropical grounds, spa and some very good rates. If you dream of miles upon miles of deserted powder soft sand, a gently lapping aquamarine sea that at night literally glows with sparkling phosphorescent plankton and getting away from the distractions of everyday life, Doc Let delivers in spades. Find out more from contacting either accommodation facility: Jungle Beach (84) 583 622 384 www.junglebeachvietnam.com Ki-Em Arthouse www.ki-em.com artresort@ki-em.com

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Discovering

Da Nang

Da Nang is Vietnam’s fourth largest city

and has seen a vast increase in business development and tourism over the last few years. The coastal area of Da Nang was a famous rest and recreation point for US marines during the war. Today the beaches are still clean and expansive, stretching all the way to Hoi An. But Da Nang has other attractions worth visiting too. The city has international standard shopping malls, a cinema, sports facilities and a variety of restaurants and bars. Literally at the centre of Vietnam, it is a city where the cosmopolitan and the cultural combine. GETTING TO DA NANG: Taxis can be pricey if you’re going to Da Nang, generally hovering around the 350,000VND mark for one way. If you want a private car, it will be cheaper – around 200,000VND for one way. If you want to stay in town for a couple of hours then you can negotiate a return price. Alternatively, there is the yellow bus which leaves from just off Nguyen Tat Thanh St (see our Hoi An map) which should cost no more than 20,000 VND one way. CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS Cham Museum: On the corner of Trung Nu Vuong and Bach Dang streets, this museum harbours the oldest relics of the Cham era in Vietnam. If you go to My Son, you should complement your trip with a visit to this museum which has some impressive sandstone sculptures of ancient Hindu icons. BARS/DINING Apsara Restaurant: This gourmet Vietnamese restaurant is well-known and boasts an exceptional number of fine Vietnamese dishes. They often have live music too. 222 Tran Phu, Da Nang. (0511) 3561 409, www.apsaradanang.com Au Lac Vegetarian Restaurant: While the menu is limited, this small place has a good reputation for tasty and very reasonably priced food.162 Nguyen Du, Da Nang Bamboo2 Bar: Diem is every expats favourite bar owner! Bamboo2 has an unrivalled atmosphere of good cheer that is complemented by Diem’s own personality and that of her cool staff. By far the best place to hangout in Da Nang for a few drinks, its location is also perfect along the river. Bamboo2 offers a decent menu of burgers, steak sandwiches, toasties, pizzas and Vietnamese dishes. Diem’s comprehensive music selection and playlists are second to none.216 Bach Dang, Da Nang, Open 11am til Late. Beachfront Seafood Restaurants: From My Hung, Blue Whale to Phuoc My 2 (yes, pronounced that way), there are a series of higher end (in Vietnamese terms) seafood restaurants that line the shore of My Khe beach. Each of them have aquarium tanks for you to choose your fresh oceanic specialty. Turn right at the end of Pham Van Dong St. Cool Spot Restaurant & Bar: Cool Spot is one of the longest running expat restaurant/bars. It offers a decent selection of Western and Asian dishes . 112 Tran Phu St, Da Nang, Open 10am – 10pm. Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant, Mercure Danang Hotel: Quickly becoming ‘the’ place to go for weekend Dim Sum Golden Dragon’s menu offers a tasty selection of tradition Chinese dishes. A family friendly restaurant offering stunning views over the city skyline. Lot A1, Green Island, Hai Chau Dist, Danang, 0511 3797 777.

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139 Le Bambino: Unmatched French fare and other international dishes feature on the menu of this quaint restaurant. The filet mignon, BBQ and pasta dishes are all exceptional, as well as the wine list. Owned and managed by a French-Vietnamese couple. 112/11 Quang Trung, Da Nang. (0511) 3896 386. http://www.lebambino.com Mumtaz Indian Restaurant: Da Nang’s only Indian restaurant, Mumtaz boasts a large range of Northern and Southern Indian dishes. Their Thali sets are superb. Mumtaz will deliver in Da Nang and for a minimum order of 200,000 VND will even deliver to Hoi An. 231 Tran Phu, 0511 3839 888 O’de’V Steak house and Margarita Bar: Downtown Da Nang’s grooviest destination. Perfect prime US and Australian steak grilled on a unique aged iron grill with a choice of fine wines from the library, sumptuous food in decadent surroundings. Great happy hour offers on food and cocktails. 7 Pasteur Street Da Nang 0511 3538 385 Phi Lu Chinese Restaurant: The premier Chinese restaurant of the city, Phi Long is long-established and has a very well priced menu with a large variety. A popular spot for lunch; especially for the popular chicken rice. 225 Nguyen Chi Thanh Pizza Plus / Bread of Life: The esteemed Bread of Life cafe is a Da Nang institution. They offer a fabulous menu of pizzas, burgers, pastas and ‘comfort foods’ for expats. They bake their own bread and cakes, you can make-toorder and they do delivery. Most of the staff are deaf and the proceeds go to training the deaf in the Da Nang and surrounding areas. 4 Dong Da, Da Nang (0511) 3565 185, Open Mon-Sat 6am to 10pm. Red Sky Restaurant & Bar: This is a favourite locals’ restaurant in town – run by chefs, the menu is nothing less than exceptional – expect wonderful meat cuts as well as inventive salads and local seafood with a twist. Fine dining in comfortable, relaxed surrounds. Red Sky also has a decent wine selection to match their meals. 248 Tran Phu St Da Nang, 05113-894-895 Syrena: A new edition to the beachside restaurants yet vastly different in terms of vibe and menu. Dine on sumptuous Cantonese cuisine (proper Hong Kong style) with seafood classics such as Crab in Claypot, Eel in XO sauce, Lobster and more. The restaurant has three floors with a rooftop, a pool and an open kitchen plus sushi station. 1C-1D Hoang Sa, Son Tra (along the beachfront restaurant boulevard at My Khe) 0511 247338 Tam’s Pub & Surf Shop: Tam’s is a small place owned and run by Tam, one of Da Nang’s premier tour guides and a great host. Cheap beer and simple food. Best place to come for up to date surf reports. 38 An Thuong 5 My An.0905 406 905 Tulip Czech Beer: A large European style beer hall serving great dark and light beer brewed on site. Also has an extensive variety of food including Vietnamese fare and house specials such as German sausages. They recently renovated so the atmosphere is now bright and cheery – very beery! 174 September 2nd (2/9) Street, Da Nang, Open 11am – 11pm Waterfront Restaurant & Bar: This slick bar on the Bach Dang riverside in Da Nang is fast becoming the cities’ hottest wining and dining venue. Expect excellent cocktails, a comprehensive wine list and a well-executed bistro style menu. The design of the restaurant is exceptional, creating a contemporary, minimalistic style with Asiatic touches. Happy hours are daily from 5.30-6.30pm for selected cocktails only. 150 Bach Dang, Da Nang, 0511 3843 373, open everyday from 11am – midnight.

ENTERTAINMENT Bowling: A great indoor sport during wet season, this bowling alley is also cheap! If you play between the hours of 9-5pm than you can get 20 balls (the equivalent of one game) for only 20,000 VND ($1) and shoe hire is 5,000 VND. After 5pm it’s 25,000 VND per game. 4th Floor, Co-op Mart, 46 Dien Bien Phu St, 0511 3647 050 Megastar Cineplex: Da Nang’s best selection of current movies that are not dubbed in Vietnamese! (see our cinema listings) Level 4, Vinh Trung Plaza, 255-257 Hung Vuong St 0511- 3.666. 222www.megastar-media.net NIGHTCLUBS Le Funk: A funky little nightspot, specializing in shooters and great beats. Fantastic service and drinks blend seamlessly with groovy interior design. Le Funk is stylish but not expensive. Shots start at 20,000VND. 166 Bach Dang St, Da Nang, 0511 3843 291, 0121 554 335. Seventeen Saloon: A large saloon style place has live music every night, a dance floor and regular special events. It is an interesting mix of bar and nightclub and is becoming quite popular among locals and foreigners. Z76 Tran Hung Dao St, 0511 6285 017,www.seventeensaloon.com.vn SHOPPING Indochina Riverside Towers: Is home to residences, offices and a Western style shopping mall. There are some very upmarket retail outlets alongside two stylish cafes; Highlands and Segafredo. If you are sick of bargaining for fake goods, come here for fixed prices on genuine name brands. 74 Bach Dang, Da Nang. www.indochinariverside.com Big C Supermarket: This is inside a 4-storey shopping complex with a supermarket, small retail shops, Highlands café as well as Lotteria and KFC restaurants. Megastar Cinema is located on the 4th floor. Corner of Hung Vuong and Ong Ich Khiem St, Da Nang. Metro Cash & Carry: A huge Western style megamart, with many imported items and other household goods not necessarily available in Hoi An. A passport or business license is required to shop here. Cach Mang Thang Tam, Da Nang. Han Market: Located right in the center of Da Nang this is a typical Vietnamese market with a lively fresh produce section as well as areas for clothes and household items.Bach Dang, Hung Vuong and Tran Phu, Da Nang. SPORT Football: Hire a court for about 300,000 VND per hour. Tuyen Son Sports Center, turn left at the end of 2/9 street, Da Nang. Surfing: From October to February the stretch of coast between Da Nang and Hoi An is a great place to get some waves. Boards are available to rent from Tam’s Pub. Kayaks, bodyboards and a host of other watersports equipment is available at The Temple, Beach Road Da Nang. Tennis: Hire tennis courts for between 40,000 to 60,000 VND and hour. Corner of Bach Dang and Quang Trung St, Da Nang. Yoga Club: Classes run throughout the day, prices range from 20,000 to 30,000 VND per lesson, each lasting 90 minutes. 6th Floor, 76-78 Bach Dang, Da Nang.

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O de V:

A New Ode to Fine Dining in Da Nang

Red Sky:

Resplendent Menu; Laid-Back Approach Amy Morison

Amy Morison

It shouldn’t take that

cunning a linguist to decipher that O de V – the name of Da Nang’s hottest new dining venue – is a play on the French phrase “eau de vie”, meaning “water of life”. Whilst technically used to define a clear fruit brandy, the phrase also implies a certain zest; a passion for living. And passion is at the core of this recently established steakhouse and modish margarita bar in Da Nang. In terms of steakhouse dining, think brasserie gone vogue. Warming timbers and lighting create a classic ambiance in the indoor dining area. An aged iron grill at the rear embers up Australian and US prime beef and lamb cuts. The garden entrance houses a cottage-style kitchen and the restaurant’s landmark piano man sculpture (a relic from the former proprietor which current founder/owner David has chosen to keep for quirky entertainment – and believe me, it’s put to good use). O de V’s menu is not completely meat-centric with tapas, cheeses, carpaccio, lasagnes, fish mains and a decadent duck confit of which the poultry portion is far from paltry. However, it’s the meats off grill that comprise the restaurant’s signature dishes. The cuts are prime, the prices reasonable – an imported flank steak starts at 225,000VND for 200g, the 250g Australian rib-eye a mere 330,000VND, while the 200g tenderloin 380,000VND. Don’t forget their mouth-watering rack of lamb (395,000VND) and Angus “big fella” US beef ribs (charged at 900,000VND per kilo). Meanwhile, at the rear of the interior dining area is a slick, minimalist margarita lounge for cocktail mingling and DJ mixing. You can start your evening here, or retire to the chilled quarters to enjoy a glass from O de V’s equally impressive beverage selection. O de V: 7 Pasteur St, Da Nang - 0511 3 538 385 - http://www.odev.com.vn

Years ago, I was introduced

to the fabulous concept of a ‘regressive dinner party’, which involved starting the evening with dessert. I thought I would write this review of Red Sky regressively too – just for a change – beginning with their passionfruit soufflé; undoubtedly the best soufflé dessert that has ever touched my lips. Think sweet, celestial, fluffy clouds of heaven in one’s mouth. And in downtown Da Nang! When you bring the talents of five-star resort chefs together to form a restaurant, you know the menu is going to be first-rate, which is exactly the case with Red Sky. However, those same chef owners also share a dislike for the formalities and conservative environment attached to dining in fivestar venues. So they decided to take a different tack with Red Sky. The food is remarkable but the atmosphere completely relaxed. There is no fuss; no prim and proper procedures – such as the flourish of the napkin over your lap – just friendly hosts and top-notch fare – hence their motto, “real food, real people”. One of the founders, Derek, is a pastry chef by training hence the soufflé par excellence. Alex, a former sous chef, also shares his influence on the menu. The Zurich native’s Sliced Beef Tenderloin served with Potato Rosti (300,000VND) is an expat favourite, as are the Black Angus Striploin with Dauphinoise Potatoes (for 2 people at 550,000VND) and Catch of the Day with Mashed potatoes and a Lime Caper Sauce (160,000VND). There are too many items to mention but the consensus is that you won’t be disappointed with anything you order here. I’d recommend a drink downstairs in the funky bar (possibly one of Alex’s cats will leisurely take to sleeping on your feet) and relocating upstairs for the actual dining. The chicken caeser salad (with quail egg) is also a must-try. But why not be daring and start with one of Derek’s decadent desserts before taking on the rest – dining in a truly resplendent regressive fashion? Red Sky: 248 Tran Phu St - 0511 3894 895 - http://redskydanang.com

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Index

Dining

Activities

(Including Adventure Tours, Cooking Class, Diving, Golf and Travel Agencies)

Adventure Tours

Agri-Travel Country Experience Tour 221 Cua Dai Rd Anh Cuoc Bike Tour 635 Hai Ba Trung St Looking Glass Jeep Tours 38 An Thuong 5, Da Nang Hoi An Eco Tour Phuoc Hai Fishing Village, Cua Dai Beach Hoi An Motorbike Adventures 54A Phan Chau Trinh St Hoi An “Love of Life” Bicycle Tour 95 Phan Chau Trinh St Hoi An Photo Tour 36 Nguyen Cong Tru St Heaven & Earth Bicycle Tour 57 Ngo Quyen St KBA Kite Surf School Cua Dai Beach Le Dai Eco Tour Bach Dang St Style Hoi An Tailor Tour www.stylehoian.com Vintage URAL Motorbike Sidecar Tours Victoria Resort, Cua Dai Beach

Cooking Class /Tasting Tour

Banana Leaf Restaurant Dao Tien Cooking Class Gioan Family Cookery Hai Café Morning Glory Taste of Hoi An Tour Red Bridge Riverside Garden Restaurant

Diving

Blue Coral Diving Center Cham Island Diving Center Vietnam Sailing

Golf

Da Nang Golf Club Montgomerie Links

Travel Agencies

Diem Diem Travel Go Travel Vietnam Hanh Café Hoi An Buffalo Travel Agency Hoi An Travel Hoi An Windows Tour Impression Travel Le Nguyen Travel Ly’s Travel Mr Dung Travel Pink Cloud-Air Booking Office Sinh Café Tour Service Son My Son Tour TM Brother & Camel Travel Tran Nhu Phuong Travel Viet Ao Travel

Schools

Green Shoots Int Kindergarten GLC Language Centre

0510 3939 888 0932 534 192 0905 406 905 0510 3928 900 0914 082 850 0510 3911 930 0918 230 653 0510 3939 399 0905 671 898 0510 3864 362 01268 422 260 01267 577 038 0913 439 967 0128 9473 125 0510 3927 040

67 Le Loi St 88 Bach Dang St 19/4 Phan Boi Chau St 21 Phan Boi Chau St 94B Bach Dang St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cam Thanh, Hamlet 4 181 Cua Dai Rd

0510 3861 346

0510 3863 899 0510 3862 210 0510 2241 555 0905 382 783 0510 3933 222 0906 406 840

77 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 6279 297 0510 3910 782 0510 3910 782

Son Tra, Dien Ngoc Dien Ngoc, Dien Ban

0511 3958 111 0510 3941 942

55 Tran Hung Dao St 61Phan Chau Trinh 132 Tran Cao Van St 542 Cua Dai Rd 10 Tran Hung Dao St 85 Tran Cao Van St 617 Hai Ba Trung St 32 Le Loi St 77 Ba Trieu St Tan My, Cam An Ward 47 Tran Hung Dao St 587 Hai Ba Trung St 19 Tran Hung Dao St 50 Tran Hung Dao St 621 Hai Ba Trung St 38 Thai Phien St

0936 661 53 0510 3929 115 0510 3864 609 0510 3914 243 0510 3910 911 0510 3916 763 0510 3862 333 0510 3916 218 0510 3917 666 0510 3864 113 0510 3919 111 0510 3863 948 0510 3864 864 0510 2211 974 0510 3916 270 0510 3911 414

4 Tran Quoc Toan 4 Tran Quoc Toan

0510 3924 854 0905 207 990

0510 3914 996

Al Fresco Restaurant Apsara Restaurant Bale Well Bamboo Buddha Café Banana Leaf Restaurant Le Banyan Café Bazar Café Billa Bong Before and Now Bep Viet Nam Blue Dragon Restaurant Bo Bo Restaurant Bread of Life Brother's Café Can Café Café Des Amis Café on Le Loi Café 43 Café 96 Cargo Club Casa Verde Cat Bien Restaurant Cat Tien Sa Floating Boat Restaurant Cat Tien Museum Restaurant Cava Brasserie Champa Restaurant, Le Belhamy Coco Café Cordon Bleu Restaurant Dac San Hoi An Restaurant

143 (Including both Bars and Restaurants) 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet 0510 3929 707 222 Tran Phu St, Da Nang 0511 3561 409 Track 45-51 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3864 443 40 Nguyen Phuc Tan, An Hoi Islet 0510 2223 300 88 Bach Dang St 0510 3861 346 Far left, An Bang Beach 0935 100 337 36 Tran Phu St 0510 3911 229 34 An Thuong 1 St, Da Nang 0511 2602 006 51 Le Loi St 0510 3910 599 13 Nguyen Phuc Chu St, An Hoi Islet 0510 3862 021 46 Bach Dang St 0510 3910 742 18 Le Loi St 0510 3861 939 4 Dong Da St, Da Nang 0511 3565 185 27-29 Phan Boi Chau St 0510 3914 150 74 Bach Dang St 0510 3861 525 52 Bach Dang St 0510 3861 616 88 Le Loi St 0510 3910 189 43 Tran Cao Van St 0510 3862 587 96 Bach Dang St. 0510 3910 441 107-109 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 227 99 Back Dang St 0510 3911 594 Bai Ong Village,Cham Island 0510 3864 563 252 Bach Dang St,Da Nang Lot 6-7 Xuan Thieu Villa, Da Nang 0511 3945 519 53 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 0510 3911 646 Hamlet 1, Dien Duong, Dien Ban Dist 0510 3941 888 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3923 320 38 Bach Dang St 0510 3863 439 89 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 533

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Index Dam Vegetarian Restaurant 71/20 Phan Chu Trinh St Dao Tien Restaurant 19/4 Phan Boi Chau St 21 Phan Boi Chau St Day & Night Café 42 Tran Cao Van St Dingo Deli Café 229 Cua Dai Rd Dive Café 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Dong Thuan Bakery 409 Cua Dai Rd Du Port Restaurant 70 Bach Dang St Eden Hoi An Café 53 Ba Trieu St Faifoo Restaurant 104 Tran Phu St Festival Night Café 11 Pham Hong Thai St Family Restaurant Café 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Fullmoon Towns 101 Cua Dai Rd Fusion Lounge 35 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet Ganesh Indian Restaurant 24 Tran Hung Dao St Gidino Café 113 Ba Trieu St Good Morning Vietnam Restaurant 102 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Gourmet Garden Café 55 Le Loi St Green Chili Café 122 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Green House Restaurant Hyatt Regency, Da Nang Green Mango Restaurant 54 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Green Moss Restaurant 341 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Hai Café 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Highway 4 111 Ba Trieu St Hawaii Guitar Café Nguyen Duy Hieu St Heaven Garden Restaurant 236 Cua Dai Rd Hoi An Restaurant 89 Tran Phu St Hoi An Garden Restaurant 246-248 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Hoi An Hai San Restaurant 64 Bach Dang St Hong Phuc II Café 98 Bach Dang St Island Cafe Far Left An Hoi Islet Jaspa’s Beach Club Left side, An Bang Beach Khanh Hoa II Restaurant 88 Ba Trieu St Kim Nhung Café 109 Tran Hung Dao St Kita Guni Restaurant 41 Nguyen Chi Thanh St Lantern Town 49 Nguyen Thai Hoc La Me Café 111 Tran Hung Dao St La Plage Restaurant Left side, An Bang Beach Laugh Café 126 Tran Cao Van St L’Annam, Victoria Resort Cua Dai Beach Le Ba Truyen II Restaurant 12 Ba Trieu St Luna d’Autunno Lot 06 An Bang Beach Luong Gia Restaurant 34 Le Loi St Mango Rooms 111 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Mango Mango 45 Nguyen Phuc Chu St Memory Town Restaurant 11 Tran Phu St Mermaid Restaurant 02 Tran Phu St Miss Ly Café 22 Nguyen Hue St Morning Glory Restaurant 106 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Morning Star Restaurant 48 Bach Dang St Nam Long Restaurant 103 Cua Dai Rd New Way Restaurant 473 Cua Dai Rd Ngoc Tuyet Restaurant 43 Tran Hung Dao St Quang Thang Restaurant 90 Back Dang St Red Bridge Restaurant Hamlet 4, Cam Thanh Village Riverside Garden Restaurant 181 Cua Dai Rd Sakura Restaurant 119-121 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Samurai Kitchen 188 A/5 Tran Phu St Son Restaurant 177 Cua Dai Rd Song Do Restaurant 175 Cua Dai Rd

0510 3863 733 0510 3914 996 0510 3916 760 0906 552 824 0510 3910 782 0918 255 521 0510 3924 988 0510 3861 786 0510 3917 930 0510 3861 548 0510 3915 115 0510 3862 279 0510 3923 922 0510 3911 700 0510 3864 538 0510 3911 167 0510 3910 227 0510 3962 999 0510 3928 199 0511 398 1234 0510 3929 918 0510 3863 728 0510 3863 210 0510 393 45 67 0935 116 147 0510 3919 199 0510 3861 533 0510 3924 779 0510 3861 652 0510 3861 497 0169 233 6050 0510 3928 727 0510 3917 765 0510 3921 205 0511 3898 210 01239 912 212 0510 3916 176 0510 3928 244 0510 3917 139 0510 3927 040 0510 3864 463 01272 840 053 0510 3911 899 0510 3910 839 0510 3911 863 0510 3861 999 0510 3861 527 0510 3861 603 0510 2241 555 0510 3861 651 0510 3923 723 0510 3914 945 0510 3861 673 0510 3862 130 0510 3933 222 0906 406 840 0510 3910 369 01228 504 627 0510 3861 172 0510 3864 800

Soul Kitchen Restaurant Streets International Café Sun Shine Café Tam Tam Café Tao Do Restaurant Taste of Hoi An Terrace Café, Palm Garden Resort Tiger Lily Thanh Restaurant Thanh Hien Café Thanh Nhi Café Thi Nhan Seafood Restaurant 3 Dragons Thuan Y Restaurant Trung Bac Restaurant U-Café Van Loc Restaurant Vetiver Voulez – Vous Vu Le Café Waterfront Café White Caps Beach Club & Bistro White Marble White Rose Restaurant White Sail Café Yellow Flower Café Yellow River Restaurant Yellow Star Café Zero Seamile

Far left, An Bang Beach 17 Le Loi St 46 Tran Cao Van St 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 121 Tran Phu St 29 Ba Trieu St 108 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cua Dai Beach 83 Tran Hung Dao St 76 Bach Dang St 113 Bach Dang St 404 Cua Dai Rd 128 Cua Dai Rd 51 Phan Boi Chau St 94 Bach Dang St 87 Tran Phu St Cam Chau Village 27 Tran Phu St 580 Cua Dai St 631 Hai Ba Trung St 47 Cua Dai Rd 150 Bach Dang St, Da Nang Ocean Villas 98 Le Loi St 533 Hai Ba Trung St 134 Tran Cao Van St 104 Bach Dang St 38 Tran Phu St 73 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cua Dai Beach

01229 292 922 0510 3911 949 0510 3916 902 0510 3862 212 0905 117 793 01217 621 693 0510 3927 927 0510 3929 707 0510 3861 366 0510 3862 134 0510 3923 346 0510 3862 261 0510 3914 742 0510 3863 179 0510 3864 622 0122 5453 248 0510 3861 212 0510 3925 333 0510 3927 339 0510 2212 132 0511 3843 373 0511 3967 094 0510 3911 862 0510 3862 784 0510 3915 569 0510 3241 341 0510 3861 053 0510 3910 430 0510 3911 911

146

Index

147

Accommodation Agribank Resort Tan Thinh, Cam An Ward An Hoi Hotel 69 Nguyen Phuc Chu St An Huy Hotel 30 Phan Boi Chau St An Phu Hotel 288 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Bach Dang Hotel 01 Nguyen Tat Thanh St Boutique Hotel 16 Ba Trieu St Boutique Hoi An Resort Block Tan Thinh, Ward Cam An Cua Dai Hotel 544 Cua Dai Rd Dai Long Hotel 680 Hai Ba Trung St Dong Khanh Hotel 42 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Frangipani Village Resort Hamlet 5,Cam Thanh Furama Resort 68 Ho Xuan Huong St, Da Nang Fusion Maia Truong Sa Street, Da Nang Glory Hotel 538 Cua Dai Rd Golden Sand Resort Thanh Nien Rd, Cua Dai Beach Grassland Hotel 500 Hai Ba Trung St Green Field Hotel 423 Cua Dai Rd Ha An Hotel 06-08 Phan Boi Chau St Hai Au Hotel 576 Cua Dai Rd Hai Yen Hotel 568 Cua Dai Rd Hoa Binh Hotel 696 Hai Ba Trung St Hoa My Hotel 201 Ly Thuong Kiet St Hoang Trinh Hotel 45 Le Quy Don St Hoi An Ancient House Resort 377 Cua Dai Rd Hoi An Beach Resort 01 Cua Dai Rd Hoi An Hotel 10 Tran Hung Dao St Hoi An Pacific Hotel 321 Cua Dai Rd Hoi An Riverside Resort 175 Cua Dai Rd Hoi An Trade Union Hotel 80 Tran Hung Dao St Hoi An Trails Resort 276 Cua Dai Rd Hop Yen Hotel 103 Ba Trieu St Hoi Pho Hotel 627 Hai Ba Trung St Huy Hoang II Hotel 87 Hung Vuong St Huy Hoang River Hotel 73 Phan Boi Chau St Truong Sa St., Hoa Hai Ward, Da Nang Beach Hyatt Resort Le Belhamy Resort Dien Duong Hamlet, Dien Ban Dist Le Domaine De Tam Hai Resort Tam Hai, Nui Thanh Life Resort 01 Pham Hong Thai St Long Life Hotel 30 Ba Trieu St Long Life Hotel 61 Nguyen Phuc Chu, An Hoi Islet Lotus Hotel 330 Cua Dai Rd Minh Quang Hotel 551 Hai Ba Trung St My Chau Hotel 04 Tran Cao Van St Nam Hai Resort Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village Nhat Huy Hoang Hotel 58 Ba Trieu St Nhi Nhi Hotel 60 Hung Vuong St Nhi Trung Hotel 700 Hai Ba Trung St Orchid Garden Home Stay 382 Cua Dai Rd Palm Garden Resort Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach Phuong Dong Hotel 42 Ba Trieu St Phuong Nam Hotel 224 Ly Thai To St Phuoc An I 31/1 Tran Cao Van St Phuoc An II River Hotel 242 Cua Dai Rd Phu Thinh II Hotel 488 Cua Dai Rd Pho Hoi I Hotel 7/2 Tran Phu St Pho Hoi Riverside Resort Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Village Red Bridge Villa Hamlet 4 ,Cam Thanh Village

0510 3927 729 0510 3911 888 0510 3862 116 0510 3914 345 0510 3917 801 0510 3916 545 0510 393 9111 0510 3862 231 0510 3916 232 0510 3914 400 0510 3933 933 0511 3847 888 0511 3967 999 0510 3914 444 0510 3927 550 0510 3921 921 0510 3863 484 0510 3863 126 0510 3914 577 0510 3862 445 0510 391 6838 0510 3916 582 0510 3916 579 0510 3923 377 0510 3927 011 0510 3861 445 0510 3923 777 0510 3864 800 0510 3862 370 0510 3923 999 0510 3863 153 0510 3916 382 0510 3916 233 0510 3861 453 0511 3981 234 0510 3941 888 0510 3545 105 0510 3914 555 0510 3916 696 0510 3911 696 0510 3923 357 0510 3916 230 0510 3916 307 0510 3940 000 0510 3861 665 0510 3916 718 0510 3863 436 0510 3863 720 0510 3927 927 0510 3916 339 0510 3923 401 0510 3916 757 0510 3924 111 0510 3923 923 0510 3861 633 0510 3862 628 0510 3933 222 0905 452 092

River Beach Resort Sea and Sand Hotel Sun Flower Hotel Sunrise Thanh Binh I Hotel Thanh Binh II Hotel Thanh Binh III hotel Thanh Van Hotel The Ocean Villas Thien Nga Hotel Thien Thanh Hotel Thien Trung Hotel Thuy Duong III Hotel Van Loi Hotel Victoria Hoi An Beach Resort Vinh Hung I Hotel Vinh Hung II Hotel Vinh Hung III Hotel Vinh Hung Resort Vinh Huy Hotel Vuon Trau Family Resort

SHOPPING ARTS & CRAFTS

Ami Gallery Art Gallery 39 Art Gallery 50 Art Gallery 86 Art Gallery 93 Art Gallery 155 Art Gallery 180 Art Handicraft Workshop Au Lac Wood Art Black White Gallery Cam Ly Souvenir Shop Capallano Sculpture Casa Art & Gifts Chan Nhu Gallery Charming Lacquer Shop Dai Phuc Lamp Shop Diem Kieu Souvenir Shop Fine Art Handicraft Workshop Faifo Art Gallery Foco Souvenir Shop Ha Linh Lantern Shop Hoa Dao Hand Made Hoa Mai Art Gallery Hoang Thach Souvenir Shop Hoi An Agarwood Hoi An Art Handicraft Hoi An Hand Embroidery Hung Dong Art Gallery Hung Long Art Gallery Hung Thai Souvenir Shop Hung Toan Art-Wooden Kim Bong Craft Village Kim Bong Handicraf Furniture Lam Kieu Souvenir Shop Lantern Shop Loc An Art Gallery

Cua Dai Beach 15 Cua Dai Beach 397 Cua Dai Rd Cua Dai Beach 01 Le Loi St 712 Hai Ba Trung St 98 Ba Trieu St 78 Tran Hung Dao St Dien Ngoc Coastal Street, Da Nang 52 Ba Trieu St 16 Ba Trieu St 129 Tran Hung Dao St 92-94 Ba Trieu St Xuyen Trung, Cam Nam Village Cua Dai Beach 143 Tran Phu St Nhi Trung St 96 Ba Trieu St 111 Ngo Quyen, An Hoi Islet 203 Ly Thuong Kiet St Cam Chau Village

0510 3927 888 0510 3927 999 0510 3939 838 0510 3937 777 0510 3861 740 0510 3863 715 0510 3916 777 0510 3916 916 0511 3967 094 0510 3916 330 0510 3916 545 0510 3861 769 0510 3916 565 0510 3936 205 0510 3927 040 0510 3861 621 0510 3863 717 0510 3916 277 0510 3910 393 0510 3916 559 0510 3924 165

(Including Arts & Crafts, Clothing, Jewellery, Shoes) (Including Art Galleries, Interior Products, Home DĂŠcor, Lanterns and Souvenirs) 46 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 50 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 90 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 93 Phan Chau Trinh St 155 Tran Phu St 180 Tran Phu St 09 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 152 Tran Phu St 42 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 31 Tran Phu St 30 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 25 Phan Boi Chau St 118 Tran Phu St 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 300 Ly Thuong Kiet St 9 Nguyen Hue St 41 Le Loi St 05 Chau Thuong Van St 128 Tran Phu St 72 Tran Nhan Tong St 128 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 114 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 49 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 186 Tran Phu St 09 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 04 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 52 Tran Phu St 105 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 105 Tran Phu St 26 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St Trung Ha, Cam Kim Village 52 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 41 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Phu St 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 3911 963 0510 3862 817 0510 3916 680 0510 3910 398 0510 3862 710 0510 3861 869 0510 3861 765 0510 3910 216 0510 3911 092 0983 040 415 0510 3911 542 0510 3910 311 0984 344 914 0510 3921 395 0510 3911 554 0510 3921 524 0510 2222 455 0510 3862 164 0510 3861 782 0510 3862 490 0510 3923 037 0510 3910 482 0510 3862 339 0510 3863 423 0510 3911 866 0510 3910 216 0510 3862 235 0510 3862 902 0510 3861 924 0510 3911 200 0905 558 323 0510 3934 282 0510 3861 307 0510 3861 565 0510 3861 996 0510 3910 208

148

Index

149

Long Vy Lanterns Montagne Handicrafts Mosaique Decoration Mr Binh Souvenir Shop Nam Tran Art Craft Ngan Xua Art Gallery Ngoc Duc Silver Shop Nguyen Tan Hiep Art Gallery Phan Kim Chi Art Gallery Phuc Thanh Gallery Phuoc Tinh Souvenir Shop Quynh Giao Embroidery Radio Tan Reaching Out Handicrafts Red Strawberry Giftshop Same Same But Better Gallery Soil Gallery T-Long Gallery Tan Phong Home Furniture Tay Vien Gallery Thang Loi Fine Arts Handicraft Thanh Cong Art Gallery Thanh Tram Souvenir Shop Thien Tan Home Furniture TiTi Electronic Shop Tran Phu Bamboo & Lacquer Tran Phu Lantern Shop Trieu Mask Art Trong Anh Art Gallery Trung Tin Home Furniture Tuoi Ngoc Lantern Tuyen Xuong Loi Souvenir Shop Van Anh Carving & Bamboo Van Toan Souvenir Shop Vina Souvenir Shop Viet Town Artisan Village XQ Vietnam Yin Yang Antique & Art Shop 09 Souvenir Shop 75 Tran Phu Souvenir Shop

06 Phan Chau Trinh St 101 Tran Phu St 61A Phan Chu Trinh St 131 Tran Phu St 62 Bach Dang St 95 Tran Phu St 147 Tran Phu St 44 Tran Phu St 37 Le Loi St 86 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 13 Tran Phu St 638 Hai Ba Trung St 174 Ly Thuong Kiet St 103 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 100 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 298 Le Loi St 303 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 57 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 48 Ly Thuong Kiet St 82 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 92 Phan Chu Trinh St 95 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 51 Tran Phu St 173 Ly Thuong Kiet St 264 Ly Thuong Kiet St 75 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Phu St 320 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 692 Hai ba Trung St 130 Ly Thuong Kiet St 103 Tran Phu St 48 Tran Phu St 40 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 120 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 62 Tran Phu St 127 Phan Chu Trinh St 23 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 60 Tran Phu St 65 Tran Hung Dao St 75 Tran Phu St

CLOTHING

(Including Fashion, Boutiques and Tailors) 62 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3910 579 63 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3911 144 507 Cua Dai Rd 0510 2211 981 148 Tran Phu St 0510 3920 666 572 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3863 911 87 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 01268 400 950 57 Le Loi St 0510 3911 611 83 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3861 669 481 Cua Dai Rd 0510 2212 315 38 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 053 64 Ba Trieu St 0510 3917 379 28 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3917 078 101 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3861 818 09 Hoang Dieu St 0510 2212 670 52 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3917 923 53 Tran Hung Dao Rd 0905 071 349 296 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3914 524 23 Tran Phu St 0510 3861 866 56 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3917 392 279 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 0510 3915 789

A Dong Silk An Cloth Shop Anh Silk Boutique Ao Ba Ba Cloth Shop Asian Cloth Shop Au-A Glasses AvAna Ba Ba Bam–Bo Cloth Shop Bamboo Green Tailor Bao An Cloth Shop Bao Diep Cloth Shop Bao Khanh Tailor BeBe Cloth Shop Bi Bo Design Bi Hanh Cloth Shop Bin Cloth Shop B'Lan Silk Blue Cloth Shop Blue Gecko Cloth Shop

0510 3606 611 0912 357 585 0510 8505 000 0510 3862 179 0510 3911 461 0510 3911 467 0510 3862 390 0510 3911 077 0510 3910 119 0510 3910 218 0510 3861 460 0510 3917 930 0510 3861 270 0510 3910 168 0906 568 991 0510 3910 294 0510 3914 967 0510 3863 457 0510 3862 970 0510 3910 096 0510 3864 610 0510 3863 673 0510 3911 165 0510 3917 138 0510 3864 691 0510 3911 134 0510 3861 996 0510 3861 919 0989 391 486 0510 3939 939 0510 3861 920 0510 3911 048 0905 113 180 0510 3911 221 0511 3862 781 0510 3917 700 0510 3911 872 0510 3911 449 0510 3863 573 0510 3911 134

Bup Design Cali Design Chic Couture Chic-Unique Cloth Shop Chip Tailor Diem Diem Cloth Shop Dong Duong Tailor Dung Tailor Elegant Cloth Shop Everybody’s Fashion Family Clothes Shop Fashion Shop Future Cloth Shop Ginkgo Giogio Tailor Guy & Gals Cloth Shop Hanh Hung Cloth Shop Happy Cloth Shop Heritage Boutique Hoang Lan Cloth Shop House of Hoi An Hot Chili Hugo II Cloth Shop Huong Xuan Cloth Shop Impression Boutique Ixora Shop Khoi Cloth Shop Kim Chi Tailor Kim Nhung Cloth Shop Kim Quyen Cloth Shop Ki-nu Lana Stylist La Vy Cloth Shop Long Silk Luna Cloth Shop Ly Cloth Shop Mac Khai Cloth Shop Mai Ly Cloth Shop Mai Thanh Silk Me Linh Cloth Shop Metiseko Minh Tri Tailor Monkey Side Moon River Tailoring My Dieu Cloth Shop MyMy Cloth Shop My Trang Fashion Nam Ngai Silk New Fashion II New World Cloth Shop Ngan Ha Cloth Shop Nhat Silk Ngoc Uyen Silk Nit Tailor I&II Ny Na Boutique Papaya T-Shirt Papillon Noir Phu Quoc Souvenir Shop Phuoc An Cloth Shop Phuong Huy Cloth Shop Rin My Cloth Shop Silk Road Tailor

68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 12 Le Loi St 698 Hai Ba Trung St 62 Phan Boi Chau St 42 Bach Dang St 55 Tran Hung Dao St 115 Tran Phu St 23 Le Loi St 35 Le Loi St 718 Hai Ba Trung St 86 Ba Trieu St 588 Hai Ba Trung St 586 Cua Dai Rd 59 Le Loi St 702 Hai Ba Trung St 17 Tran Hung Dao St 103 Tran Hung Dao St 57 Phan Boi Chau St 29 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 42 Tran Phu St 41 Le Loi St 67 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 29 Tran Phu St 08 Le Loi St 70 Tran Hung Dao St 96 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 20 Tran Hung Dao St 90 Le Loi St 166 Nguyen Truong To St 113 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 188/7 Tran Phu St 130 Tran Phu St, 94 & 90 Le Loi St 36 Ba Trieu St 172 Tran Phu St 345 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 55 Phan Boi Chau St 12 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 57 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 112 Tran Phu St 28 Tran Phu St 3 Chau Thuong Van St 342 Cua Dai Rd 01 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St 166 Nguyen Truong To St 61 Ba Trieu St 164 Tran Phu St 503 Cua Dai Rd 93 Tran Phu St 89 Tran Cao Van St 70 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 37 Tran Phu St 36 Tran Hung Dao St 92 Le Loi St 42 Tran Phu St 86 Le Loi St 134 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 30 Tran Hung Dao St, 76 Tran Phu St 162 Tran Phu St 06 Le Loi St 26 Tran Phu St 15 Phan Boi Chau St 91 Phan Chau Trinh St 91 Nguyen Thai Hoc St

0510 3862 165 0510 3911 100 0510 3864 110 0510 3914 187 0510 3910 678 0510 3861 477 0510 3911 611 0510 3863 865 0510 3911 847 0510 3911 174 0510 3917 227 0905 939 044 0510 3915 186 0908 090 104 0510 2241 440 0510 3861 947 0510 3910 456 0510 3915 199 0510 3911 777 0510 3910 955 0510 3911 512 0510 3929 553 0510 3916 553 0510 3861 498 0510 3862 063 0510 2471 191 0510 3861 113 0510 3862 244 0510 3927 135 0510 3862 134 0510 3938 778 0510 3911 211 0510 3501 581 0510 3863 400 0510 3928 234 0510 3914 123 0510 3861 397 0510 3862 794 0905 947 417 0510 3861 326 0510 3929 278 0510 3241 590 0510 3929 111 0510 3936 937 0510 3916 980 0510 3863 816 0510 3862 282 0510 3861 166 0510 3917 893 0510 3910 300 0510 3861 764 0510 3917 909 0510 3863 278 0510 3910 955 0510 3922 922 0510 3863 321 0510 3917 941 0510 3911 361 0510 3862 615 0510 3910 425 0510 3863 280 0510 3863 777 0510 3911 058

150

Index Song Shop Sova111 Couture & Design Sum Tailor Sun Cloth Shop Tamarind Tree Fine Clothing Thao Nguyen Cloth Shop The Galaxy Tailor Thinh Thanh Cloth Shop Thu Linh II Tailor Thu Ly Cloth Shop Thu Thuy Silk Thuong Cloth Shop Thuong Gia Tailor Thong Phi Tailor Tina Design Tony the Tailor Toto Cloth shop Trang Tri Cloth Shop Vu Thu Cloth Shop Vy Vy Cloth Shop Yaly Couture Yamy Cloth Shop Yaly Leather Yen Dung Cloth Shop 23 Ba Trieu Cloth Shop 36 Le Loi Cloth Shop

151 76 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 111 Tran Phu St 102 Tran Phu St 273 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 2/6 Le Loi St 79 Phan Chau Trinh St 37 Tran Phu St 53 Le Loi St 40 Tran Phu St 48 Tran Hung Dao St 60 Le Loi St 16 Tran Hung Dao St 41 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 28 Le Loi St 14 Tran Hung Dao St 294 Nguyen Duy Hieu St 32-34 Ba Trieu St 63 Tran Hung Dao St 299 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Stall no1, Hoi An Clothes Market 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 11 Le Loi St 18 Tran Hung Dao St 405 Cua Dai Rd 23 Ba Trieu St 36 Le Loi St

JEWELLERY

Anh Vu Silver Shop 78 Le Loi St Au Christal D’Hoi An 27 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Bac Viet Jewellery 10 Pham Hong Thai St Bien Bac Jewellery 55 Hoang Dieu St Brian Jewellery Joli Jewellery 97 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Lac Viet Jewellery 23 Hoang Dieu St Lo Lem Stering Silver Shop 62 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Lotus Jewellery 53A Le Loi St, 82 Tran Phu St Memory Jewellery 96A Bach Dang St No. 1 Jewellery 12 Tran Quy Cap St Ngoc Duc Silver Shop 147 Tran Phu St Phuc Thinh Jewellery 139 Tran Phu St Quynh Giao Jewellery 636 Hai Ba Trung St Water Lily 311 Nguyen Duy Hieu St

SHOE

Bao Anh Shoes Shop 311 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Bao Long Shoe Shop 18 Nguyen Hue St Dinh Shoe Shop 33 Tran Phu St First Shoe Shop 275 Nguyen Duy Hieu St Giay Viet Shoe Shop 635 Hai Ba Trung St Hieu Giay Shoes Shop 78 Bach Dang St Hue Kiem Shoes Shop 61 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Levy Shoes Shop 134 Tran Phu St Linh Shoe Shop 16 Tran Phu St New Fashion Shoe Shop 79 Phan Chu Trinh St Shoe Shop 09 65 Tran Hung Dao St Thien Long Shoe Shop 495 Cua Dai Rd Tin Bag & Shoe Shop 724 Hai Ba Trung St Tong Shoe Shop 26 Phan Boi Chau St 732 Nhi Trung Handbag & Shoe Shop 732 Nhi Trung St

0510 3916 333 0510 3911 078 0510 3863 394 0510 3861 449 0510 3863 784 0510 3861357 0510 3861 764 0510 3861 426 0510 3241 232 0510 3864 765 0510 3861 699 0510 3861 761 0510 3910 712 0510 3861 145 0510 3914 718 0510 3861 923 0510 3864 797 0510 3911 179 0510 3863 975 0510 2211 972 0510 3910 474 0510 3910 215 0510 3929 279 0905 769 808 0510 3962 111 0510 3910 326 0510 3910 411 01222 552 912 0905 550 062 0510 3862 353 0908 043 100 0510 3864 020 0510 3914 135 0510 3910 589 0510 3917 889 0510 3911 483 0914 085 075 0510 3862 390 0510 3864 269 0510 3917 930 0510 3939 394

0510 3914 594 0510 2212 483 0510 3911 655 0510 3914 373 0905 385 859 0510 3917 689 0510 6281 351 0510 3863 984 0510 3911 299 0510 3861 975 0510 3241 723 0510 3863 573 0510 3915 193 0510 3910 223 0510 3915 202 0510 3910 661

Health and Wellness Aly Spa & Beauty Salon Bao Tram Spa Countryside Charm Spa Dentist, Nguyen Xuan Hai Dentist, Do Pham Thanh Long Dr: Ho Huu Phuoc Essence of Health Family Medical Practice Hoi An Day Spa Herbalist, Pham Van Can Herbalist, Dui-Giao Huy Hoang Pharmacy Life Spa, Life Resort Na Spa Na Spa Villa Nam Hai Spa Nam Son Foot Massage NQ Spa Pacific Hospital Palm Spa & Salon Palmarosa Spa Sen Nail & Spa Senses Spa Su Bi Spa Sunrise Spa, Sunrise Hotel Tamarind Spa, Victoria Hotel Tuan Boy Beauty Salon Venus Spa Zen Spa 216 Pharmacy 230 Pharmacy

(Including Medical, Spa and Salons, Pharmacy) 49 Ba Trieu St 0510 3917 972 496 Cua Dai Rd 0905 999 267 512 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3501 584 13 Le Loi St 0510 3861 513 365 Le Duan St, Da Nang 0511 3705 059 47 Le Loi St 0510 3861 419 3 Khoi Thanh Tay, Cam Chau 0510 6506 616 50-52 Nguyen Van Linh St, Da Nang 0511 3582 699 47 Ba Trieu St 0510 2222 723 50 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 0510 3910 194 265 Nguyen Tat Thanh St 0989 397 162 268 Ly Thuong Kiet St 0510 3916 312 1 Pham Hong Thai St 0510 3914 555 463 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3914 199 100/5 Le Thanh Tong St 0510 3914 199 Hamlet 1, Dien Duong, Dien Ban Dist. 0510 3940 000 414 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3924 939 446 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3924 990 06 Phan Dinh Phung St 0510 3921 398 Cua Dai Beach 0510 3927 927 90 Ba Trieu St 0510 3933 999 458 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3861 819 175 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3864 800 93 Ba Trieu St 0510 3917 884 Cua Dai Beach 0510 393 7777 Cua Dai Beach 0510 3927 040 148 Nguyen Truong To St 0905 960 365 95 Ba Trieu St 0510 3501 854 10 Tran Hung Dao St 0510 3911 588 03 Thai Phien St 0510 3863 753 584 Cua Dai Rd 0510 3862 302

Entertainment 3 Dragons Bamboo Bar 2 Before & Now Bar Camel Club Cool Spot Bar Dancing Club Dive Bar Faifo Bar, Victoria Resort Golden Pine Pub Hawaii Guitar Bar Heritage Bar Jaspa’s Beach Club La Plage Nam Bar New Phuong Dong Discotheque OdeV - Margarita bar Q Bar Seventeen Saloon Tam Tam Bar Treat’s Bar Vegas Bar White Marble Wine Bar Zero Seamile Beach Club

(Including Nightclubs and Bars)

51 Phan Boi Chau St 220 Bach Dang St, Da Nang 51 Le Loi St 16 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Da Nang 112 Tran Phu St, Da Nang Song Hoai Square, Hoi An 88 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Cua Dai Beach 52 Bach Dang St Nguyen Duy Hieu St 01 Pham Hong Thai St Left side, An Bang Beach Far Right, An Bang Beach 61 Nguyen Phuc Chu St 20 Dong Da St ,Da Nang 7 Pasteur St, Da Nang 94 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 76 Tran Hung Dao St, Da Nang 110 Nguyen Thai Hoc St 121 Tran Phu St 158 Tran Phu St 581 Hai Ba Trung St 98 Nguyen Thai Hoc St Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach

0510 3914 742 0511 3826 029 0510 3910 599 0511 3887 462 0511 3824 040 0907 772 660 0510 3910 782 0510 3927 040 Da Nang 0935 116 147 0510 3914 555 0510 3928 727 0510 3928 244 01213 141 524 0511 3825 092 0511 3538 385 0510 3911 964 0511 3530 987 0510 3862 212 0510 3861 125 0510 3863 430 0510 3911 862 0510 3911 911

152

Index

DAO TIEN RESTAURANT & TRAINING HOSPITALITY

Mini Marts & Wine Amart AP Mart Bich Thuy Mini Mart & Wine Celliers d’Asie Fine Wines Dingo Deli French Red Wine Hanh Nga Mini Mart Mister-T Mini Mart Nga Toan Mini Mart Son Toan Mini Mart Trung – Van Wine Shop Tu Huong Groceries Van Toan Groceries Vine Group, Wines and Spirits

(Including Mini Marts, Groceries, Wine)

552 Hai Ba Trung St 501 Hai Ba Trung St 318 Ly Thuong Kiet St 185 Ly Thuong Kiet street. 229 Cua Dai Rd 185 Ly Thuong Kiet St Near Tan An Market 639 Hai Ba Trung St 78 Dinh Tien Hoang St Hai Ba Trung St 49 Le Loi St 104 Nguyen Truong To St 177 Ly Thuong Kiet St 644 Hai Ba Trung St

0510 6260 168 0982 503 508 0510 3920 899 0510 3917 070 0906 552 824 0510 3917 070 0510 3917 210 0510 3929 025 0510 3917 210 0510 3919 152 0510 3910 105 0510 3924 563 0510 3861 416 0510 3917 922

Books, Computers, DVDs, Mobile Phones, Photo Shop Book Exchange Chanh Binh Photo Shop DVD shop Hoi An Book Store Kien Vinh Computer Shop Lan Lan Phone Shop Le Gia Computer Shop Legend DVD shop Mr Hung Book Store Phone Shop Photocopy Shop Randy’s Book Exchange Tam Phat Computer Shop Tan Thoi Phone Shop

43 Phan Boi Chau St 09 Pham Hong Thai St 734 Hai Ba Trung St 2A Nguyen Hue St 586 Hai Ba Trung St 150 Nguyen Truong To St 276 Ly Thuong Kiet St 73 Phan Chau Trinh St 06 Nguyen Hue St 18 Ly Thuong Kiet St 189 Ly Thuong Kiet Cam Nam Village 11 Ba Trieu St 298 Ly Thuong Kiet

0510 3861 692 0510 3863 142 0903 585 186 0510 3910 979 0510 3917 393 0972 757 767 0510 3920 969 0510 3936 159 0510 3910 405 0510 3921 371 0510 3916 109 0936 089 483 0510 3917 952 0510 3934 444

Consistently voted in the top 10 of Hoi An restaurants on Trip Advisor, the Dao Tien restaurant will not disappoint even the most sophisticated of culinary experts. Delicious cuisine that is presented with a flair that is unique to Hoi An, Dao Tien is the combined effort of husband/wife team Ms Dao Thi Tien and Chef Le Quoc Viet. The money bags here are famous throughout the country. But then again, everything on the menu is worth sampling. So is their cooking class. Learn the art of Vietnamese cuisine in a more intimate space than most cooking classes and from one of Hoi An’s most experienced chefs. Ms. Tien also founded Dao Tien Hospitality Training Program for vulnerable young people, providing youths with vocational skills in hospitality service or culinary arts together with a hospitality English program and a comprehensive life skills training program. Dining at Dao Tien helps support the training program. 19/4 Phan Boi Chau St, Hoi An - Tel: 0510.3.914.996 Email: daotienhoian@yahoo.com Web: www.daotienhoian.com

153

154

Index

155

Hoi An is a laid back place with problems rarely surfacing, however, we have listed important numbers for you to call should you have any health, safety or other concerns. If you have any feedback for us about what else should be included, we invite you to write us an email: amy@livehoian.com

Emergency Family Medical Practice, Danang 0913 917 303 Hoi An 0903 597 997

Hoi An Police Station (0510) 3 861 204 Hoi An Tourism Authority (0510) 3 861 327 Hoi An Hospital (0510) 861 364 (0510) 3 861 480 Hoi An Taxi Corporation (0510) 3919919 (0510) 3 862 952 Extension) (0510) 3910093 Mai Linh Taxi Corporation (0510) 3914914

Reporting Crime The department of Foreign Affairs and the Da Nang Police Department have worked together to give foreigners in the area English speaking hotlines for use in emergencies. The main contact details are listed below: 78 Le Loi St, Da Nang Tel: +84 (0)5113 860247 Crime Tel: +84 (0)905 113038 Foreign Affairs Tel: +84 (0) 5113 743791 Immigration

light up your life

LONG VY LANTERNS

• Lantern-making workshop for 60,000VND pax includes souvenirs • Wholesale and retail sales. Can ship overseas and do large orders 1

06 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoi An - www.hoianlantern.com.vn longdenlongvy@gmail.com - 0510 360 6611 – 0908 664 731

1551

COUTURE Made-to-measure

Ad 1: 47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An. T. 0510.3910474 Ad 2: 47 Tran Phu, Hoi An. T. 0510.3861119 Ad 3: 358 Nguyen Duy Hieu, Hoi An. T. 0510.3914995 Email: yalyshop@dng.vnn.vn - Email: quynh@yalycouture.com Website: www.yalycouture.com