TURKISH DELIGHTS:
A CULINARY TOUR SIGHTSEEING, DINING, SHOPPING &
MORE: AN INSIDER'S GUIDE
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EDITOR'S LETTER This past November, I took off on a last-minute trip to spend four days in Milan. It was a short trip, so I spent my every waking moment out and about, walking the piazzas and climbing to the top of the Duomo. My itinerary: shopping, drinking macchiatos, shopping again and eating saffron-tinged risotto. I have a good and great friend who regularly takes off on a whim, heading to the far corners of the globe many times a year. She never fails to invite me, and although I am tempted each time, life interrupts, and I pass on the opportunity. This time, her destination was too good to pass up. So off to Milan I went, with an empty suitcase ready for purchases and not much of a plan—beyond enjoying myself.
Roman sarcophagi, Greek altars, Ottoman coins and medals, and much more. [Note: One of our featured locals, Ömer Çağatay, provides a fantastic rundown of must-visit historic sites on pages 6-9.] I’m a serious fan of shopping and harbor a passion for marketplaces. So along with the Grand Bazaar, I’ll head over to the Spice Bazaar to take photos of the colorful piles of spices and breathe in the rich scents. Another stop will be to Sahaflar Market in the Beyazıt neighborhood, where Turkish writer and national treasure Orhan Pamuk would spend his days as a youth, hunting for rare finds and building his personal library.
Those trips always end up the best, when you don’t allow any itinerary to rule, and you just go, figuring it all out along the way. Istanbul stands out as the perfect unplanned destination simply because of how much it has to offer. I can see myself packing lightly and boarding the nine-hour flight to the land of more than 3,000 mosques, breathtaking vistas, bazaars and markets, Europe and Asia, the Golden Horn, seven hills and so much history.
With the abundance of UNESCO-protected sites in the city, including the Hagia Sophia, Hagia Irene and the Blue Mosque surrounded by its six minarets, it is easy to understand the magnetic draw Istanbul holds for travelers worldwide. According to Mastercard's annual study on global travel patterns as well as market research firm Euromonitor, Istanbul continues to be one of the top-ten most visited cities in the world, attracting over 12M visitors a year. TripAdvisor members continue to vote this phenomenal city as one of their favorite European Destinations for the Traveler's Choice Awards, voting it as #1 and #2 respectively for two consecutive years in a row. I certainly have been mesmerized by the food, culture, history and friendly locals while preparing this edition of Travel Savvy Presents: Istanbul. When the next invitation arrives from my adventurous friend, I hope she says, “Let’s go to Istanbul.”
▲ ANADOLUHISARI, ISTANBUL − Photo Credit: Jutta M. Jenning on Flickr
It’s the history that will enthrall me for hours. The city that was founded as Constantinople in 330 A.D. thrived for centuries as the capital of empires, protected and surrounded by a military system based on the impenetrable Theodosian Walls. Over the course of the next thousand years, the city would usher into existence major developments in art and culture, such as iconic Byzantine architecture featuring domed churches and vaulted interiors—much of which can be seen throughout Europe to this day, the cultivation of tulips and one of world’s first ‘malls,’ the covered halls of the Grand Bazaar. Renamed Istanbul in the 1920s, relics of the city’s great past can be found at the Istanbul Archaelogical Museums, a complex of three large buildings located near TopkapI Palace in the Sultanahmet neighborhood. It's where you can find ancient
Paula Keung, Editor-in-Chef 3
Istanbul, Turkey
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▼ BOY IN ISTANBUL− Photo Credit: Moyan Brenn on Flickr
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CONTENTS WINTER/SPRING 03 | Editor's Letter
17 | Secrets of the Grand Bazaar Featuring Özlem Tuna
06 | Ancient and Modern in Istanbul Featuring Ömer Çağatay
▲ TURKISH TEA SETS — Photo Credit: Doug on Flickr
20 | Index Featured Locations
▲ DEM KARAKÖY
10 | Conquer Cihangir Featuring Senem Demirayak
▲ TAKSİM SQUARE− Photo Credit: Theophilos Papadopoulos on Flickr
▲ HAGIA SOPHIA− Photo Credit: Neil Howard on Flickr
13 | Turkish Delights Featuring Mario Enrique Vargas
FRONT, Photo Credit: Turkey Home
▲ PIDE− Photo Credit: William Neuheisel on Flickr
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Istanbul, Turkey
Featuring Local Ömer Çağatay, Entrepreneur, Dem Tea House; City Manager of The Yacht Week. Find Ömer on Instagram. I was born and raised in Istanbul by parents who are also locals. I have traveled to more than 40 countries, and yet I can never resist the pull to come home. This city, full of contrasts and energy, is the only place on the earth that sits in both Europe and Asia. Around every corner, you’ll find the ancient and the modern, East and West, openminded and conservative, headscarves and miniskirts. You can encounter a million different scenarios every day.
TEA IN KARAKÖY: “While attending post-graduate studies at University of Exeter in England, I would regularly meet with friends at a local tea house near campus. I’m a natural tea lover; after all, Turkey has the distinction of being the most tea-loving country in terms of pounds consumed per capita. Over time, the idea of opening the first modern tea house in Istanbul started to brew in our minds, and that is how Dem Karaköy was established in Karaköy. ▲ DEM KARAKÖY
Karaköy, the modern name for the ancient Galata, is a commercial neighborhood in the Beyoğlu district, located at the northern part of the Golden Horn. As one of the oldest districts in the city, it is home to plenty of museums, art galleries, cafés and restaurants, as well as various international sites. Churches of all denominations, including Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Bulgarian, Jewish synagogues, and Greek, Jewish, French, Italian and Austrian schools, collectively reflect Karaköy’s historic cosmopolitan character.” EDITOR'S NOTE Karaköy is home to loads of galleries and art institutions. Don’t miss the Istanbul Modern, established in 2004, and SALT Galata, a cultural institution and design mecca. ▲ DEM KARAKÖY 6
ANCIENT CUISINE MEETS MODERN TECHNIQUES (Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi, Kemankeş Caddesi, No. 37/A),
and don't miss the fried lamb liver and the hummus with pastrami. If you can't book a table in advance, then try for a late lunch or early dinner. The kitchen is closed from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.
“CUISINE in Istanbul is unique, having been influenced over the centuries by an awesome melting pot of the Ottoman, European, Byzantine, Greek and Persian cultures. Our climate also supports amazing farmlands. The soil is fertile and the abundant sunshine and rainfall means the country is selfsufficient in terms of crops and food production.
▲ CUISINE IN ISTANBUL− Photo Credit: Stijn Nieuwendijk on Flickr ▲ MIKLA− Photo Credit: Bill Rand on Flickr
Over the last decade, the dining scene here in Istanbul has developed into a serious foodie mecca. Chefs are not shy about creating or mixing new techniques with our historic cuisine and dishes. We have so many interesting places throughout the city to try. For lunch, make a reservation at Karaköy Lokantasi
Located atop the elegant Marmara Pera Hotel, Mikla (The Marmara Pera, Meşrutiyet Caddesi, No. 15) offers a spectacular view and serves a 3- or 7-course tasting menu. The kitchen is helmed by celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs, who creates dishes that reflect his mixed Turkish/Swedish heritage. If you don't have a reservation, be prepared to wait at the bar, which happens to have an excellent cocktail lineup. Order the pumpkin on the dessert menu! Looking toward the north from the Bosphorus near the Golden Horn, you can see the Galata Tower, which was built in the 1300s. It is the most visible landmark of Beyoğlu district. Münferit (Firuzağa Mahallesi, Yeni Çarşı Caddesi, No. 19) is just a 15-minute stroll from the Tower, off a steeply sloping cobblestone street and housed behind a stylish two-story, Art-Deco facade. Locals flock to this chic restaurant for both the hip scene and the delicious dishes, like octopus with lemon potato mash and black couscous with calamari. The fashionable set starts to file in after dinner, sipping cocktails on the terrace and dancing into the wee hours.
▲ KARAKÖY LOKANTASI 7
Istanbul, Turkey
The stunning rooftop terrace at Tomtom Suites is the perfect setting for Nicole (Tomtom Sokağı, Boğazkesen Caddesi, No. 18) Restaurant. From the moment you ride the glass elevator upstairs and enter the jewelbox of a dining room, you’re in for a treat. Diners select a tasting menu based on the number of courses, then sit back and enjoy the Mediterranean-inspired culinary journey carefully presented by the expert staff. I went recently, and I’m still thinking about the Agnolotti with porcini mushrooms, sunflower seeds and Swiss chard. It’s worth noting that Tomtom Suites is part of the distinguished Small Luxury Hotels of the World group.
CAN’T MISS SIGHTSEEING IN THE OLD CITY “Visitors know to plan on spending time in the Sultanahmet neighborhood for the concentration of museums, relics, mosques, churches, shopping, hotels and more. Also called the Old City, most of the major tourist attractions are here and within walking distance of each other. Istanbul has been home to empires, and our history and heritage is breathtakingly vast yet so accessible. Near the Four Seasons Sultanahmet, directly under Nakkas Rug Store, there is a hidden cistern below street level. Climb down to a mysterious 6-century Byzantine cistern, which was built during the Justinian Dynasty. There are other small cisterns like the one below Nakkas. But be sure to see the Basilica Cistern, which is the largest in the
▲ NICOLE
Yeni Lokanta (Kumbaracı Yokuşu Sokağı, İstiklal Caddesi, No. 66) means ‘new kitchen,’ and this fine dining restaurant definitely brings the ‘new’ into classic dishes. My favorite is the mantı, which are traditional Turkish dumplings. Chef Civan Er uses dried aubergine for an interesting twist. You’ll have no trouble finding this restaurant. İstiklal Caddesi is arguably the most famous pedestrian thoroughfare in all of Istanbul, with access to the metro, shopping, galleries and more lighting up the avenue.”
▲ NAKKAS RUG STORE
city and built at about the same time. Spy on the koi fish below as you walk along the elevated planks and find the two Medusa heads built by the Romans.
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Next, head to the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, popularly known as the Blue Mosque, which is recognizable by the six minarets rising into the sky. Inside are tens of thousands of ornate tiles lining the walls in elaborate tulip designs. Another must see is the Süleymaniye Mosque, which is one of the most beautiful in the city and worthy of a visit for its lavish gardens and grand interiors. Of course, you'll want to spend time at the Grand Bazaar, the most visited tourist attraction and shopping center in the world. Browsing the more than 3,000 merchants inside means that you'll need a few hours at least, so don't forget your walking shoes.”
▲ BASILICA CISTERN− Photo Credit: Dpnuevo on Wikipedia
A mere one-minute walk away from the Cistern will bring you to the doorstep of the Hagia Sophia Museum, formerly a Byzantine basilica built in 537. Stand inside under the golden sunlight streaming through the high windows and gaze at the Muslim calligraphy and Christian mosaics.
▲ SÜLEYMANIYE MOSQUE− Photo Credit: Félix González on Flickr
▲ HAGIA SOPHIA MUSEUM− Photo Credit: Dirk Heitepriem on Flickr
Just around the corner from the Hagia Sophia, stop at the royal Ottoman residence TopkapI Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This palace was home to the Ottoman sultans for over 600 years and counts hundreds of rooms and chambers.
▲ GRAND BAZAAR− Photo Credit: Robbie on Flickr
ÖMER SAYS: “The secret to enjoying this city is walking the streets and visiting the many distinct neighborhoods, each holding the promise of a unique experience. Don’t miss favorites like Galata, Pera, Karaköy, Sultanahmet—and so many more! Some visitors use the taxis, but I think sea transportation, like public ferries and boats, allows for the truest Istanbul experience.”
▲ TOPKAPI PALACE− Photo Credit: gpparker on Flickr
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Istanbul, Turkey
Featuring Senem Demirayak, Freelance Illustrator and Designer Find Senem on Behance
MY NEIGHBORHOOD “I moved to Istanbul a decade ago and live in charming Cihangir, just off Taksim Square, a major district where lots of bigger hotels are located. There, you’ll find lots of street-food carts and stalls. Something to look for in Taksim Square is an ‘islak burger,’ which translates into ‘wet burger.’ You’ll see little storefronts with glass cases filled with garlicky sliders in a tomato sauce. They are served to order on golden bread rolls−a typical delicious street-food treat! Once you head off into the hip streets of Cihangir, you'll find tons of small restaurants, cafés, shops and boutiques tucked in along the sidewalks, with houses painted in all shades of the rainbow rising above. And stray cats are everywhere! We collectively care for strays and feed them. Aside from the felines, this bohemian neighborhood offers lots of cute coffee shops filled with interesting personalities. My favorite thing to do: Find a quiet café garden and read a book under the warm sun. It reminds me of my days on the beach, when the sun was at my back and the comforting breeze blew over me all day.
I’m originally from Muğla in southwestern Turkey, on the Mediterranean coast near beautiful summer resort town like Gökova and Bodrum. I used to skip class and go swimming in high school when the weather was nice. Which was often! Over the years, I’ve traveled quite a bit in the Netherlands, Paris and New York. My dream is to swim in the Blue Lagoon in Iceland!
▲ İSTIKLAL AVENUE IN TAKSİM SQUARE − Photo Credit: Khortan on Wikipedia
▲ CAT IN ISTANBUL− Photo Credit: Andrew Garton on Flickr 10
In this area, you'll also find some excellent shops. My favorite pastime is to pour over the racks in the vintage shops. Check out Sentetik Sezar for clothing and fun sunglasses and Mozk for vintage and new designs in apparel and furniture. For the more avant-garde shopper, Leila Boutique features one-of-a-kind pieces by local artists and designers. Record lovers, particularly fans of jazz, should definitely stop in to Opus 3A, which is very close to the Cihangir Mosque.”
▲ LEILA BOUTIQUE
▲ SENTETIK SEZAR
▲ MOZK
CİHANGİR'S MANY FLAVORS “Part of what makes Cihangir a great neighborhood is the abundance of little cafés and eateries. Locals never have to leave the area if they want to make life simple and stick close to home. I'm happy to live near KronotRop (Kuloğlu Mahallesi, Firüzağa Cami Sokak, No. 2/B), which offers micro-roasted cups of fragrant single-origin brews that I love more with each sip.
Another café nearby is Swedish Coffee Point (Kuloğlu Mahallesi, Firüzağa Cami Sokak, No. 2/E), located on a small street across from a tiny mosque. Coffee is an important part of Swedish life, and the care taken here is evident in their excellent roasts and delicious pastries. The house baked cinnamon rolls are delightful! Tucked on a side street is Hayat (Kılıç Ali Paşa Mh., Akarsu Caddesi, No.
▲ KAHVE 6
EDITOR'S NOTE The word ‘Cihangir’ means conqueror; it was the name of Suleiman the Magnificent’s beloved son for whom the Cihangir Mosque (Pürtelaş Hasan Efendi) was built in 1559. Visit this beautifully restored building and relax in the peaceful garden.
▲ HAYAT
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Istanbul, Turkey
23/A), a restaurant that serves traditional Turkish cuisine, and of-
The menu offers plenty of vegetarian options and perhaps the best falafel in the whole city. This is a popular place, in part because of the quiet, cozy outdoor patio.
fers fantastic meze platter. The word meze means taste, so expect a large platter of small dishes meant to share, tapas-style. Around the corner from Hayat is Kahve 6 (Anahtar Sokak, Akarsu Caddesi, No. 13/A), where you can enjoy an excellent breakfast.
Another neighborhood gem is the bar 21 (Coşkun Sokak, Akarsu Caddesi, No. 21), which is a perfect place to meet with friends. The music, the buzzing crowd and the open outdoor seating area set a fun mood. This neighborhood bar is popular with the locals as a meeting place for groups of friends.
▲ KRONOTROP
•• If you’ve ever read the novel by Nobel Laureate Orhan Pamuk, The Museum of Innocence (Dalgıç Çıkmazı, Çukurcuma Caddesi, No. 2), you’ll be happy to learn that close to these places is the museum of the same name, set up by Mr. Pamuk. This museum was named the European Museum of the Year in 2014 by the Council of Europe.”
Istanbul is an adventure everyday! On my weekends and hours off, I love exploring and discovering different parts of this very surprising city. The neighborhood next door is Çukurcuma, with more little shops and cafés to check out. •• Stop at “Pizza Vegas (Liva Sokak, No. 18/A),” where, for 3₺, you can get the best slice of margherita on a paper plate! •• If you want a cute café and a cup of coffee, check out Cuma (Çukur Cuma Caddesi, No. 53), a local café where the food is excellent, and the atmosphere is laid back. • Near Cuma is an interior design shop, Aslı Günşiray (Çukurcuma Caddesi, No. 58). The elegant shop, named for the owner, is a lovely place to browse for inspiration.
▲ ASLI GÜNŞIRAY
▲ CUMA
▲ THE MUSEUM OF INNOCENCE 12
Featuring Mario Enrique Vargas, ESL Professor Find Mario on LinkedIn are small little anchovies from the Black Sea usually served fried with salad; and İskender Kebap (one of my favorites) from Bursa, which is a flat bread with thin layers of meat, tomato sauce, yogurt and melted butter. İzmir is well known for its Kumru, a sandwich that has sucuk (Turkish sausage), hot dog slices, a mozzarella-like cheese, with mayo and ketchup. The best thing you can find here is from the city of Samsun. Samsun is famous for its Pide, flat bread with various toppings like different vegetables and meats. It looks like an oval pizza pie without the tomato sauce, and it is absolutely mouthwatering. All can be found in Istanbul, especially İskender Kebap and Pide.
I met Elvan, my now-wife, when I was living and working in the New Jersey area, and I moved to Istanbul to be with her. Of the many things that love will make you do, moving all the way across the globe to a new country, culture and language is a wonderfully adventurous one! Today I’m a CELTA (Certificate of English Language Teaching to Adults), and Elvan and I are expecting our first child. The most amazing thing about Istanbul is the abundance of food and activity, all day long.
The street-food options are also abundant, delicious and perfect for eating on the go. Dürüm döner is a shaved meat wrap with French fries, tomatoes and pickles inside. It’s a whole meal in one package! Lahmacun is like a Turkish pizza, featuring a thin crust topped with ground meat and spices, usually served
A FOOD LOVER’S PARADISE “Walking down any busy avenue in Istanbul, you can find food from all across Turkey, including Hamsi from Trabzon, which
Trabzon
Nevsehir Kahramanmaras Gaziantep
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Istanbul, Turkey
▲ DÜRÜM DÖNER − Photo Credit: Wikipedia ▲ LOKUM − Photo Credit: Chris Goldberg on Flickr
Turkish Delight, or Lokum, is also offered in many different varieties. The little sweets can be stuffed with hazelnuts, pistachios, walnuts or almonds. The candies can be enjoyed in different flavors too: cherry, strawberry, fig, apricot and lemon. The Turkish coffee shops are the best places to get Lokum, they even vacuum wrap it for you.” EDITOR'S NOTE ▲ HAMSI AT ROTA RESTAURANT
Another must-eat dessert is Dondurma, also known as Maraş Ice Cream, named for the city of Maraş. This traditional Turkish ice-cream includes salep, a root flour, and mastic, from the tree of the same name.
with parsley and lemon. To eat, just roll it up into a burrito shape and enjoy. Kumpir is a baked potato with the insides mashed up with melted cheese, and you can choose as many toppings as you like to put on it. The toppings choices are fun—black and green olives, diced hot dogs and coleslaw, just a few to choose from. Kumpir can be found anywhere in Istanbul, but Ortaköy (on Istanbul’s European side) is the best place to get it!
KADIKÖY ON ISTANBUL’S ASIAN SIDE
Everyone loves Baklava, and you’ll be surprised how many different varieties there are: baklava with walnuts, baklava with pistachio, dry baklava and flattened baklava. In every neighborhood, you can find a baklava bakery serving this classic dessert.
“When I first arrived in this vibrant city, I took a pedestrian tour of the many neighborhoods, with my wife as my guide. Istanbul is one of the few places in the world where the landscape changes completely within a block or two. Imagine walking around a suburban neighborhood, you turn the corner and you’re in the middle of a metropolis: tall buildings, traffic, shopping, streetfood vendors. Then you turn the other corner and there’s open land with animals all around. Istanbul is simply unique and amazing.
▲ BAKLAVA − Photo Credit: Turkey Home
▲ PALLADIUM MALL 14
forth to the European side of Istanbul. Everything they have is from the Ottoman times and gives you a small glimpse of what the cuisine was like then, complete with the traditional plates they were served on. They offer delicacies like stuffed spleen, great salads and much more, all beautifully presented. You’ll leave happy and full. I always do.
While I love the general energy of the city as a whole, there is a more laid-back feel to the Asian side. It is more residential in general, yet the large markets and amazing restaurants are bustling and crowded. There are plenty of hotels on this side of the Bosphorus, and the bigger shopping malls are on the Asian side as well, such as Maltepe Park and Palladium in Atasehir. Ataturk Caddesi, a main avenue in Maltepe, is perfect for strolling then finding a place to eat right by the Sea of Marmara.”
3. Seven Kebap: (Osmanağa Mahallesi, Leylak Sokak, No. 6/A) When I first arrived in Turkey, a friend recommended Seven and said, “If you want a good idea of what Turkish food is about, this is the place.” I came right away, ordered my first İskender Kebap, and immediately fell in love. It’s two floors of Turkish deliciousness: from pide to kebaps, soups to desserts that will make you wish you had come to Turkey earlier.
“Kadıköy quickly became my favorite neighborhood upon my arrival, and some of my best-loved restaurants are in this area. I had a hard time narrowing down a list of recommendations, but here are 5 places for authentic Turkish cuisine. 1. Pide Sun: (Caferağa Mahallesi, Moda Caddesi, Şükran Apartmanı, No. 67/A/B) This place has the best pide in Istanbul. Located on Moda Caddesi, a popular street in Kadıköy, this restaurant offers a variety of pide all more delicious than the next. The place reminds me of a pizzeria in NYC, with small tables draped in red-and-white-checked plastic covering, photos of Turkey on the wall and a stone oven in the kitchen. Along with truly authentic, Samsun-style pide, choose from a list of delicious soups and appetizers. Absolutely a must if you’re going to the Asian side of Istanbul for a day.
▲ SEVEN KEBAP
4. Rota Restaurant: (Cafer Ağa Mahallesi, Güneşli Bahçe Sokak, No. 29/1A) This is my top place for seafood in Istanbul. They have it all; shrimp, calamari, hamsi from Trabzon. Everything on the menu was just caught that morning and deliciously grilled or fried. The tender and buttery calamari, my preference, comes in very generous portion of 8 to 10 pieces and goes great with a cold ale.
2. Çiya Sofrası: (Caferağa Mahallesi, Güneşlibahçe Sokak, No. 43) For an authentic taste of Turkish cuisine, head to Çiya Sofrası for a literal buffet of Ottoman dishes, like lahmacun, kebabs, salads and more. It’s located in Kadıköy’s central area, in front of the ferry docks that go back and
▲ ÇIYA SOFRASI − Photo Credit: smayda on Flickr
▲ SEAFOOD IN KADIKÖY − Photo Credit: Aaron Brazell on Flickr 15
Istanbul, Turkey
▲ TEA IN ISTANBUL − Photo Credit: Patrick Lauke on Flickr
5. Kadıköy Saray Muhallebicileri: (Rıhtım Caddesi, No. 20) Although this place has entrees, the main focus is its sweets. Traditional Turkish pastries like kazandibi*, sütlaç (rice pudding), ekmek kadayıfı (bread pudding), and of course baklava can all be found here. Order them with Turkish coffee or a sweetened Turkish tea, always served in a glass.” *Kazandibi- A traditional Turkish milk-based pastry that is like a hard pudding with caramelized sugar on top and usually served rolled up.
▲ DONDURMA − Photo Credit: Rajesh_India on Flickr
▲ KADIKÖY SARAY MUHALLEBICILERI
▲ İSTANBUL TOY MUSEUM
EDITOR'S NOTE Asian-side visitors must make time for the Istanbul Toy Museum (Dr. Zeki Zeren Sokağı, Ömerpaşa Caddesi, No. 17) for an inspiring day of browsing trinkets and playthings from all across the globe, collected over the decades by the museum’s founder, poet and novelist Sunay Akın. The five-story, white gingerbread house is chock-full of colorful displays and also offers special classes for kids in topics like origami and puppet making. Closed Mondays.
▲ İSTANBUL TOY MUSEUM 16
Featuring Özlem Tuna, Jewelry and Object Designer Find Özlem and her entire collection at ozlemtuna.com and on Instagram Not long after I graduated with a B.A. from Marmara University’s Faculty of Fine Arts, I came across a wanted ad for jewelry design at Urart, which specializes in interpreting art pieces from ancient civilizations. Founded in 1972, the company's collections have exemplified different periods, from Hittite symbols to Sejuk tiles and more. After a few years, I started to freelance with some of the different vendors at the Grand Bazaar and then eventually launched my own brand in 2003.
▲ ALTINSIRA COFFEE SET BY OZLEM TUNA
MASTERS OF THE BAZAAR “The Bazaar, known as Kapalıçarşı in Turkish, is a fascinating place, one that is regulated by age-old, unspoken rules of a guild system. Designers work with production masters utilizing ancient techniques to produce intricate designs in copper, brass and silver. Some of my pieces might journey through several different design workshops before they are ready. No other major European city can boast such a tremendous traditional production system at the heart of its touristic center. My workshop and gallery are situated nearby on a quiet block in the Old City, close to many of the city’s major historic sites. When I am in need of inspiration I might pop over to the Basilica Cistern and revel in the quiet gracefulness. This is a very pedestrian-friendly city; I walk back and forth to my home each day in the Cihangir neighbourhood.” 17
Istanbul, Turkey
AN AIR OF MYSTERY “Being the most important financial center of Ottoman Empire, this central market is one of a few institutions of a storied era still intact. For more than 500 years, financial transactions and deals are mostly made on a handshake here. As a result, most business deals won’t have written records. The market stretches across sixty-five streets and over three hundred thousand square feet, with 3,600 shops and eleven gates. This universe-unto-itself also has fourteen hans, which, in medieval times, were used as full-service traveler's inns where merchants could stop for a break, enjoy refreshments and hold meetings with other merchants. Han is Turkish for ‘inn,’ and each one is usually tucked away into an outer corner of the Bazaar, centered around a small courtyard.
▲ COURTYARD OF THE CEBECI HAN − Photo Credit: Perihan Altinsoy
▲ GOLD SELLER AT GRAND BAZAAR − Photo Credit: Faraways on Shutterstock
Today, these ancient hans are more like artisans' workshops, where you can visit craftsmen and watch them work on anything from threading fabrics with gold and repairing intricate patterns on ornate rugs, to making tiny chains by hand and melting precious metals for jewelry. One of my main focuses is wearable art design. It’s essential for businesses like mine to have artisans readily available. Workshops throughout the market specialize in different stages of production. Precious unprocessed metals like gold or silver are sold at specialized shops, like Apraham, which has been in existence since 1882. In this way, designers have access to raw materials under the same roof as other workshops that handle melting, moulding, leveling, mounting stones and polishing. So much jewelry making and fine work happens here that certain streets of the Bazaar are swept for gold dust each evening. One of the unwritten rules of business is regarding the mandatory hiring of porters. These are the men you see walking the aisles with large rattan baskets on their shoulders or pulling heavy, package-laden carts. If a shopkeeper or atelier must ship something, he must use the services of a porter, who will take the cargo to one of the main gates for pick up. International shippers are barred from entry.”
OLD CITY FAVORITES “As mentioned, the Grand Bazaar has 11 gates, or points, or points of entry. Just off the Nuruosmaniye* gate you can find some excellent dining. The first two listed are my favorite esnaf restaurants, where the shopkeepers and tradesmen frequent, similar to an American lunch counter. *Near the Nuruosmaniye Mosque (Vezirhan Caddesi, Çemberlitaş, No. 13), which was built in the Ottoman Baroque style in 1755.
▲ NURUOSMANIYE MOSQUE − Photo Credit: Ibrahim Arab on Flickr
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1. Aslan Restaurant: (Vezirhan Caddesi, No. 70) Traditional Turkish comfort food at its best! It's located on the second floor of a commercial building. Save room for its excellent authentic desserts, like künefe, similar to a cheese Danish in syrup, topped with pistachios.
berlitaş Hamami. I tend to go early in the morning for my coffee, as it is a popular nargile—the Turkish word for "hookah"—place. The crowds start to arrive in the afternoons.
▲ ÇORLULU ALİ PAŞA MEDRESESİ
5. Fes Café: (Ali Baba Türbe Sokak, No. 25-27) Down a quiet alley in Çemberlitaş is Fes, a hip place to stop for lunch and coffee. Check out the tiny boutique next door for some interesting gifts.
▲ KÜNEFE, A TURKISH DESSERT
2. Gül Otantik Restaurant: (Mollafenari Mahallesi, Şeref Efendi Sokak, Ağaoğlu Çarşısı, No. 32) Come for delightful homemade dishes at this lunch-only eatery. The Armenian family that manages this esnaf restaurant often offers interesting specials you won't find elsewhere.
▲ FES CAFE
6. Ëmpress Zoë: (Akbıyık Caddesi, No. 10) A friend of mine from Australia owns this elegant boutique hotel with just 25 rooms. Located next to the Four Seasons Hotel at Sultanahmet, stop in for a midday cup of tea in the hotel's adorable walled garden.”
▲ HÜNKAR BEĞENDİ − Photo Credit: YouTube
3. Bahar Restaurant: (Nuri Osmaniye Caddesi, Yağcı Han, No. 13) Hugely popular with the locals, this eatery is located in the Yağcı Han, and makes wonderful homestyle dishes, such as trotter stew and hünkar beğendi, which is stewed eggplant with minced lamb. 4. Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi: (Yeniçeriler Caddesi, No. 36/28) Good Turkish coffee must be simmered properly to secure the ideal mix of strong flavor and smooth syrupy texture. A few minutes away from my workshop, there is a café that makes it superbly. It is in Çemberlitaş, near the popular Çem-
▲ ËMPRESS ZOË
19
Istanbul, Turkey
INDEX
E Ëmpress Zoë Hotel F Fes Café Four Seasons at Sultanahmet
# 21 A
Apraham Aslan Restaurant Aslı Günşiray
G Grand Bazaar Gül Otantik Restaurant
B Bahar Restaurant Basilica Cistern Blue Mosque
H Hagia Irene Museum Hagia Sophia Museum Hayat
C Çemberlitaş Hammami Cihangir Mosque Çiya Sofrası Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medresesi Cuma
I Istanbul Archaelogical Museums Istanbul Modern Istanbul Toy Museum K Kahve 6 Kapalıçarşı Karaköy Lokantasi
D Dem Karaköy 20
▲ SPICE BAZAAR − Photo Credit: abhishekontheweb on Flickr
Kadıköy Saray Muhallebicileri Kronotrop
R Rota Restaurant
L Leila Boutique
S Sahaflar Market Salt Galata Sentetik Sezar Seven Kebap Spice Bazaar Süleymaniye Mosque Swedish Coffee Point
M Maltepe Park Mikla Mozk Münferit Museum of Innocence
T Taksim Square Topkapı Palace Theodosian Walls
N Nakkas Rug Store Nicole Nuruosmaniye Mosque
U Urart
O Opus 3A
Y Yağcı Han Yeni Lokanta
P Palladium Pide Sun Pizza Vegas 21
Istanbul, Turkey
Republic of Turkey, Ministry of Culture and Tourism