EDITOR’S LETTER
EDITOR’S LETTER
By Paula Keung
The first thing I do when I travel to a new city is imagine my life within its boundaries. Could I, a cynical New Yorker, live in this place, however unfamiliar and altogether “other”? When I arrive in London, I am unsure for a day or two, especially when I’m chilled to the bone and constantly startled by the sight of drivers coming down the wrong side of the road. But then, after a satisfying Indian meal and a round of cocktails, I’m right at home. The trick? It feels a lot like home. There aren’t as many high rises, and everyone seems to smile more, but the fashion is cutting-edge and all the pedestrians are stepping with purpose. Like in New York, walking everywhere is a birthright. I can imagine leading a charmed British existence, spending weekends strolling Columbia Road Flower Market, smelling bouquets and ducking into shops, then heading to one of the city’s 200+ museums to take in some history. After all, London, as a 2,000-year-old city, has plenty of history to offer. Or I might fancy a splurge and shop on Carnaby Street, easily recognizable
by the giant white archway. Once the credit-card company cuts me off, I’ll walk to Soho, hit a pub, and perhaps take in a show. London’s allure is exactly what made this edition of Travel Savvy so much fun to prepare. Genteel gardens, refined abbeys and grand cathedrals underscore the city’s elegance; at night, London becomes mysterious, bathed in the yellow glow of street lamps and vintage attitude. In true Travel Savvy fashion, we connected with locals to learn more. This issue’s contributors named some spectacular destinations for cocktails, from the underground to the posh. Plus, read about boutique hotels like Zetter Townhouse and mustgo weekend activities, like heading to Borough Market for fantastic street food. On page 10, our friends at Visit London included a list of free attractions you’ll want to add to your must-go list. Before you go, don’t forget your umbrella to protect against the famous London drizzle; flip to page 8 for a few of our favorites. Now if you’ll excuse me, I have a date with a barstool in London. Cheers!
Paula Keung, Editor-In-Chief 2
CONTENTS March 2015 02 04 — 07 07 Happiness Forgets, Photo Credit: Bar
Purl Bar, Photo Credit: Chris Coulson
08 — 09 10 — 11
Editor’s Letter Bars & Lounges: Recommendations by Our Locals Weekender’s List: London’s Best Markets and More Travel Essentials: Umbrellas Worth Packing Museums & Galleries: Visit London’s Cultural Treasures
Regent Street, Photo Credit: Grant Cherrington
Exhibition Room, Photo Credit: Victoria & Albert Museum
Front Cover — Westminster Bridge Road, Photo Credit: Linus Follert
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Back Cover — Photo Credit: Aurelien Guichard
BARS & LOUNGES
and youth have collided to create the city’s unique cosmopolitan atmosphere, rich in fashion, art, music, media, food and more. Today, the hip metropolis is home to an exciting cocktail culture featuring a dazzling array of establishments, each sexier than the next, staffed with a team of As we kick 2015 into high gear, Travel Savvy charming bartenders ready to whip up anything you might desire. With so many choices, knowing raises a glass to London, one of the world’s oldest which bars to frequent could prove daunting. Since Travel Savvy is all about local knowledge, we cities. England’s heart and soul is where history asked a handful of Londoners to let us in on where to seek out the best libations.
Maria Flores Twitter@plasmataki Living in London for 8 years
“The best way to order a drink in a crowded bar is to establish eye contact with the waiter and smile. Sometimes you need to be a bit patient. Londoners are so polite and civilized.” Zetter Townhouse, Photo Credit: Andreas von Einsidel
Zetter Townhouse, Photo Credit: Addie Chinn
ZETTER TOWNHOUSE
49-50 St John’s Square
Most commonly referred to as “stylish” and “quirky,” this adorable 13-bedroom London hotel also houses a chic bar serving sublime cocktails. The menu features drinks by celebrated bartender and cocktail pioneer Tony Conigliaro. Revel in sexy takes on old classic cocktail favorites at Zetter. We’re partial to a perfect gimlet, and you’ll find one here with aromatic Jasmine tea.
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Photo Credit: Sanderson Hotel
PURPLE BAR AT THE SANDERSON HOTEL
50 Berners Street Dark and lovely, Purple Bar at the Sanderson Hotel helps you forget how many more hours you have until work tomorrow. The lush furnishings, draped in shades of violet and theatrical lighting, gives the space an otherworldly feel. Definitely worth a drop in.
LONDON
with your drinking companions. The menu ranges from creative to classic, and the service is friendly, making Purl an easy choice for an evening out. Call ahead or visit their website to book a table in advance. Ana Camara @Linkedin Living in London for 2 years
Photo Credit: One Aldwych
“London is one of the most diverse cities on the planet. The many different cultures here make London unique in every aspect. In fact, this diversity ensures that there’s always something new and good to eat—perfect answer to my foodie condition!”
Milk and Honey, Photo Credit: Concrete Playground
Photo Credit: One Aldwych
ONE ALDWYCH
1 Aldwych
Purl Bar, Photo Credit: Chris Coulson
Photo Credit: Milk and Honey
PURL LONDON
MILK & HONEY
50-54 Blandford Street
61 Poland Street A members-only bar that allows nonmembers One of the first speakeasy-type bars in London, Purl’s underground location and alcove to book during the week. Superb selection of drinks and bar snacks. seating give you plenty of opportunity to feel like you’ve chanced upon a secret hiding spot 5
BARS & LOUNGES
The soaring ceilings and grand floral arrangements perched on marble tables in the lobby of One Aldwych Hotel set the tone for the hotel’s Lobby Bar. You’ll find impeccably dressed bartenders ready to shake up your favorite concoction, or choose from a selection of new creations presented monthly.
eponymous Satan’s Whiskers (gin, vermouth Grand Marnier), to ones with exciting names, like Death in the Afternoon and Penicillin. The old-school hip-hop piped into the speakers adds to the infinite allure of the bar.
Robin Ward Instagram@ robward07 Living in London for 7 years
Photo Credit: Nightjar
“London has everything one could want in a city: culture, history, fashion, great bars and restaurants and lovely people from around the world.”
NIGHTJAR
Photo Credit: Happiness Forgets
HAPPINESS FORGETS
8-9 Hoxton Square
129 City Road
The no-standing policy, inventive cocktails, and a delectable menu of tapas and bar snacks make this place one of our favorites. Top all this with attentive and friendly service and you’ll understand why the rest of London loves Nightjar, too. Photo Credit: Satans Whiskers
SATAN’S WHISKERS
343 Cambridge Heath Road
Hip and trendy yet somehow completely approachable, Satan’s Whiskers is billed as a “neighborhood bar” that offers everything from classic choices, like the Mai Tai or the 6
Like the name suggests, descend to this basement bar and forget about any hardships you’ve endured during daylight hours. Tucked in a corner of fashionable Hoxton Square, you might do well coming to the area for an afternoon stroll and ending up here as the sun sets. It gets crowded around 7, and there’s a no-standing policy (walk-ins welcome). So consider booking a table in advance via email.
“My favorite thing about Londoners is their amazing ability to ignore the rain.” ECC Chinatown, Photo Credit: Red Visitor
LONDON
WEEKENDERS’ LIST
Loch Adamson Twitter@ LochAdamson Living in London for 8 years
If you’ve gone to London for a weekend, expect to fall in love with the city’s persona, which can feel like a date with a dreamy, beautiful stranger who gives you knowing, secret looks with sly smiles. Suddenly find yourself in love after an hour. While you’re here, take some time to live like a local. Eat and stroll about like a Londoner. Our locals offer a few suggestions:
Robin: “Fancy a stroll? It’s the best way to learn about London.” Check out London farmers markets, including Wapping Market and Broadway Market. I also love Victoria Park in East London; you can head to Victoria Park Village afterwards for a drink. Ana: “Wake up late and head to brunch!” My Sunday plan will be to head down to Columbia Road and have a nice tour around Flower Market, then have one (or a few) Bloody Marys in any of the pubs around the area. End at Shoreditch having lunch in one of the restaurants that open up around the area every week! Very touristic but I still feel like a tourist in this city.
ECC Chinatown, Photo Credit: Matt The List
ECC CHINATOWN
13A Gerrard Street
WOOLPACK
98 Bermondsey Street A big local pub that’s an easy walk from the London Bridge station, this place boasts a garden that’s popular in the summer. The crowd is trendy at weekend nights (read: hipster /bohemian) but lovely and homey on weekend afternoons. Plus, they welcome dogs. And they have hearty pub grub!
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Maria: “Go for a run and then see a movie.” Definitely go for a walk or a run in a park to clear away the cobwebs. Holland Park is my absolute favourite if I am in West London. I’d then probably follow with a visit to a market, like Portobello or Spitafields, where I’d also have brunch. Sunday evenings are great for cinema. I love Curzon or BFI on the Southbank, as they both have unique international movies and beloved classics. Loch: “People watching is amazing in London.” Arguably the most famous market in London, Borough Market is located right near the London Bridge and is exactly where you want to be when you’re hungry. This is where to find edibles from savory to sweet — fresh produce, pastries and meats are lined up near street food stalls selling lunchtime meals from all over the globe. You might feel as if you’ve walked onto a movie set while you’re here; indeed, plenty of movie and TV scenes have been filmed here at Borough Market.
WEEKENDER’S LIST
While there are plenty of speakeasies in London, ECC Chinatown might be one of the best at creating that special mix of nostalgia and discrete glamour inside its three floors. Once you locate the entrance tucked between two Chinese restaurants, you’ll enter a posh interior, sporting low-slung seats and expert bartenders making extraordinary-sounding drinks. No surprise, since ECC stands for Experimental Cocktail Club. If you didn’t book in advance, you might still snag one of the tables saved for walk-ins.
Woolpack, Photo Credit: Ewan Munro
TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
It’s likely you’ll need to shield yourself from the elements while walking about in London. The Travel Savvy team thinks you should pack an umbrella before you board the plane so you’ll be ready the moment you land.
BEFORE YOU GO Consider one of these...
THE DAVEK TRAVELER
SKY UMBRELLA, COLLAPSIBLE
www.momastore.org
Rain clouds outside? Not anymore. You’ll always have blue skies when you carry the Sky Umbrella.
www.davekny.com
Based in New York, Davek has been producing sturdy, well-designed umbrellas for almost a decade. Each model is available in a rainbow of colors. We like the Traveler model for its balance of style and portability. Price $89.00
Price $40.00 Photo Credit: MoMa Store
#%&! THE RAIN
www.coolshityoucanbuy.com Embrace your inner rebel with the middle finger umbrella. You’ve got places to go, and the rain shall not slow you down. Break out this #%&! The Rain umbrella and be on your way. Price $45.00
Photo Credit: Davek NY
Photo Credit: Cool Sh*t You Can Buy
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LONDON
WHILE YOU ARE THERE...
Didn’t pack one? Consider these sassy totes while across the pond...
SUPER SLIM “DOLL FACE” UMBRELLA
LONDON COLOUR CHANGE UMBRELLA
www.luluguinness.com
www.britishmuseumshoponline.org
From Lulu Guinness, the super slim and chic design is perfect for grabbing on the run. Go ahead and find it at one of her London locations:
This is the kind of umbrella that will make you wish for rain. Watch landmarks appear as the fabric gets wet. Look for Big Ben, Tower Bridge, the iconic London red buses and the British Museum. Made exclusively for the British Museum; head to the gift shop or buy online.
42 Burlington Arcade, London, W1J 0QG (Near Milk & Honey Cocktail Bar) 3 Ellis Street, London, SW1X AL (Near Victoria & Albert Museum)
Price £26.99
23 Royal Exchange Threadneedle Street, London, EC3V 3LP (Near Old Spitalfields Traders Market) Price £28.00
Photo Credit: British Museum
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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
Photo Credit: Lulu Guinness
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Most Popular FREE Attractions In London, as presented by Visit London
Going to London? Bring a pair of comfortable walking shoes-this exciting city has much to offer for the explorer in you. All places listed below are free for entry, but some exhibitions may require ticket purchase.
National Gallery, Photo Credit: Daily Sublime
NATIONAL GALLERY
Trafalgar Square Underground Station: Charing Cross National History Museum, Photo Credit: Damien Te Whiu
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
Cromwell Road Underground Station: South Kensington The British Museum, Photo Credit:Kashif Haque
THE BRITISH MUSEUM
Great Russell Street Underground Station: Holborn, Russell Sq. Exhibits the works of man from prehistoric to modern times, from around the world. Highlights include the Rosetta Stone, the Parthenon sculptures and the mummies in the Ancient Egypt collection.
As well as the permanent (and permanently fascinating!) dinosaur exhibition, the Natural History Museum boasts a collection of the biggest, tallest and rarest animals in the world.
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You’ll love seeing work by Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Turner, Renoir, Cezanne and Van Gogh at the National Gallery in London.
LONDON
Tate Modern, Photo Credit: Philippe Gillotte
TATE MODERN
Bankside Underground Station: Southwark, Blackfriars Britain’s national museum of modern and contemporary art from around the world is housed in the former Bankside Power Station on the banks of the Thames.
Royal Museums Greenwich, Photo Credit: Rachel Docherty
ROYAL MUSEUMS GREENWICH
Greenwich Park Underground Station: Maze Hill
Science Museum, Photo Credit: Joao Pimenta
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VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM
Cromwell Road Underground Station: South Kensington
The V&A celebrates art and design with 3,000 years’ worth of amazing global artifacts from around the world. A treasure trove of goodies, you never know what you’ll discover next!
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Take a day to enjoy all that Royal Museums Greenwich have to offer. You can stand in two hemispheres astride the Prime Meridian, touch a 4.5 billion-year-old meteorite, see Harrison’s timekeepers and Nelson’s uniform SCIENCE MUSEUM before travelling to the stars in London’s only Exhibition Road, South Kensington planetarium. With so many treasures on display, Underground station: South Kensington and a changing series of special exhibitions, Interactive and thought-provoking, the Science there’s always something new to amaze and Museum is a great place to see, touch and entertain you at Royal Museums Greenwich. experience science firsthand.
Victoria & Albert Museum, Photo Credit: Tony Hisgett
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