place penang
It’s hard to believe that it has been less than a decade since Penang’s unesco awakening. George Town’s British-colonial charm and century-old workshops have helped a generation of heritage-savvy boutique hotels, refurbished hole-in-the-wall bistros and artsy venues redefine the island as Malaysia’s heavyweight of urban-cool. Still, the narrow streets burbling with multiple personalities can leave many scratching their heads, so we’ve boiled it down to the newest and best. By Marco Ferr arese. Photogr aphed by Kit Yeng Chan
A Chinese dragon soars atop Goddess of Mercy Temple.
clockwise from left: Gudang Café, new
on Armenian Street; Kim Haus has a delightful terrace; and fun open mics.
Ask an Insider Laura François (Thread.bio) Sustainable fashionista
Navigating George Town
Catchily named, they are not, but the neighborhoods of Penang’s urban core each have their own addictive personalities. Core Heritage Zone
Stretching from the seafront promenade Weld Quay west to Love Lane and south to Lebuh Melayu, and cut in half by kaleidoscopic Chulia Street, the walkable core comprises quintessential Penang. Taking in sea views of Padang Kota Lama, bustling Little India and part of Chinatown, the area overflows with heritage buildings. Gudang Café (fb.com/gudangcafe; meal for two RM40) is the latest to resuscitate a 1950’s warehouse next to Armenian Street’s murals. It creates a simple yet convincing concept of Thai brews and Japaneseinspired mains.
Heritage Buffer Zone
Campbell Street, a 19thcentury red-light district and 20th-century shopping hub, has morphed into the city’s new standard-bearer for hip. The bar on the second floor of hotel and restaurant Kim Haus (9 & 11 Campbell St.; drinks for two RM24) boasts a delightful terrace facing charming Art Deco buildings, and has launched daily live music open mics performed by Penang artists. Next door, Café Lagenda (43 Campbell St.; dinner for two RM70) is another new spot that surprises with its MalayIndonesian fare, an unusual find in a Jazz-themed bar.
I n s e t: c o u r t e s y o f l a u r a f r a n Ç o i s
Arts and Culture
Hin Bus Depot.
Run Amok gallery.
Main player art space and gallery Hin Bus Depot (fb. com/hinbusdepot) revamped at the beginning of the year with the opening of Run Amok gallery (runamok.my), a new home for alternative illustrators and artists, and steakhouse Tavern in the Park (fb.com/taverninthepark; dinner for two RM60), a relaxing glass, brick and wood chalet serving hearty burgers and Australian rib eye steaks. Multiethnic Penang hosts many interesting festivals and some of Asia’s quirkiest religious gatherings. Here are just a few of our favorites: + End of January to February: On the first full moon of the
Nagore Road
In this snappy entertainment neighborhood a 10-minute walk west from the Buffer Zone, the bohemian Coffee Addict (209 Hutton Ln.; coffee for two RM24) is the latest addition to the café culture. Linked to Australian Murobond Paints’ shop, with original art by Ernest Zacharevic on the walls, it’s the place to take your coffee and Western breakfasts with color-stained fingers. Looking for the area’s anchor? It is Nagore Square (nagore square.com), two rows of brightly rehabilitated townhouses full of shops, eateries, spas and life.
Tamil month of Thai, a street parade of penitent Indians carry kavadis—physical burdens as heavy as skewers pierced through the cheeks— to thank Lord Murugan. + August: The month-long George Town Festival makes the island a global stage with 100 international and local world-class performances. georgetownfestival.com. + Mid-August to September: The gates of Chinese Hell unleash their dead, who ‘come back’ in paper form during the colorful, though admittedly dark, Hungry Ghost Festival. + End of November: George Town Literary Festival brings pan-Asian and international novelists, spoken-word artists and poets to quibble on the status of the written word. georgetownlitfest.com.
“The island has good spots for both preloved and ethical fashion,” says the Montreal native behind Thread.bio, an online platform promoting clothing brands that care about the planet. “Grab a coffee and head upstairs to The Study and Bon Ton Shop at ChinaHouse (60-4/263-7299; 153 Lbh. Pantai, George Town), a beautiful collection of Malaysian clothing, accessories and household items. Hipsters should plan a visit to Doubt? Japanese Used Clothing (fb. com/doubtbundle) for preloved clothing and fun Japanese styles. Ottokedai (fb.com/ otto.kedai) is a gem selling one of a kind accessories and fashion from all over the country.”
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