April 2008

TRAVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA

APRIL 2008

Singapore • Hong Kong • Thailand • Indonesia • Malaysia • Vietnam • Macau • Philippines • Burma • Cambodia • Brunei • Laos

ALL ABOARD Trains, planes, balloons and more... Asia’s ultimate trips

BUYING ART ON VACATION Six smart tips and global gallery guide

Tasmania

Food, wine and stunning scenery

Kuala Lumpur

Malaysia’s cool capital comes alive

APRIL 20 08

travelandleisuresea.com SINGAPORE SG$6.90 ● HONG KONG HK$39 THAILAND THB160 ● INDONESIA IDR45,000 MALAYSIA MYR15 ● VIETNAM VND80,000 MACAU MOP40 ● PHILIPPINES PHP220 BURMA MMK32 ● CAMBODIA KHR20,000 BRUNEI BND6.90 ● LAOS LAK48,000

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BRUNEI CAMBODIA THAILAND INDONESIA HONG KONG

(Destinations)04.08 Beijing 28, 48

Vietnam 91 Brunei 75 Phuket 98 Kuala Lumpur 24, 66, 120 Easter Island 62

Tasmania 132

World Weather This Month -40oF -20oF -40oC

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Issue Index Indonesia 112 Jakarta 38, 60 Kota Kinabalu 28 Kuala Lumpur 24, 66, 120 Manila 38, 56 Malaysia 83, 114, 116 Phuket 98 Siem Reap 58 Singapore 24, 40, 43, 66, 83, 116

AUSTRALIA Kakadu 63 Sydney 29, 142 Tasmania 132

Thailand 68, 83, 116, 118 Vietnam 91 ASIA Beijing 28, 48 Hainan 42 India 36, 83 Taipei 54 Tokyo 29, 40, 68

THE AMERICAS Easter Island 62 New York 65, 68

Currency Converter Singapore Hong Kong Thailand Indonesia Malaysia Vietnam Macau Philippines Burma Cambodia Brunei Laos US ($1)

(SGD)

(HKD)

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(RM)

(VND)

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(BND)

(LAK)

1.38

7.78

31

9,052

3.16

15,829

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40.5

6.40

3,927

1.38

8,778

Source: www.xe.com (exchange rates at press time).

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SOUTHEAST ASIA Bangkok 24, 29, 38, 44, 54 Brunei 75 Burma 24, 110 Cambodia 36 Chiang Mai 29, 40 Halong Bay 38 Hong Kong 24, 38, 54, 66, 84 Hua Hin 29

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(Contents)04.08

>98 Refurbished historic buildings line Soi Romanee in Phuket Town.

98

Phuket Old Style There is more to this island than sun and sand.

Its old town—peppered with splendid Sino-colonial architecture—is in the midst of a revival. Story and photographs

by LEISA TYLER. GUIDE AND MAP 106

12

108 Five Fabulous Splurges Come face to face with fearsome Komodo dragons or float above the golden domes of ancient temples aboard a hot-air balloon in these exclusive Southeast Asian holiday experiences. By PAUL EHRLICH 120 KL Comes of Age There is a new spring in Kuala Lumpur’s step, and a growing list of excellent eateries, clubs and adventures.

LORIEN HOLLAND maps out a

A PRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

city on the up. Photographed

by KEVIN MILLER. GUIDE AND MAP 130

132 Pure Tasmania The cleanest air and water on the planet, fabulously varied landscapes, a sophisticated local food and wine culture: Tasmania, STEPHEN METCALF finds, is a thriving gourmet paradise. Photographed

by HUGH STEWART. GUIDE AND MAP 140

LEISA TYLER

97-132 Features

(Contents)04.08

APRIL 2008

ALL ABOARD Trains, planes, balloons and more... Asia’s ultimate trips

Food, wine and stunning scenery

Kuala Lumpur

Departments 16 20 22 24 28 30 142

Editor’s Note Contributors Letters Ask T+L Best Deals Strategies My Favorite Place

> 56

travelandleisuresea.com

Top indie band Santamonica’s guide to alternative Jakarta. BY JASON TEDJASUKMANA 62 Green

New eco-lodges on Easter Island and in Australia’s Kakadu.

BY LAURA BEGLEY AND SHANE MITCHELL

65–73 Stylish Traveler

Six smart tips and global gallery guide

Tasmania

Malaysia’s cool capital comes alive

60 Night Out

BUYING ART ON VACATION

SINGAPORE SG$6.90 ● HONG KONG HK$39 THAILAND THB160 ● INDONESIA IDR45,000 MALAYSIA MYR15 ● VIETNAM VND80,000 MACAU MOP40 ● PHILIPPINES PHP220 BURMA MMK32 ● CAMBODIA KHR20,000 BRUNEI BND6.90 ● LAOS LAK48,000

+

BRUNEI CAMBODIA THAILAND INDONESIA HONG KONG

Cover On the Eastern & Oriental Express. Photographed by Mitchell Nguyen McCormack.

Styled by Kampol Likitkanjanakul.

Hair by Piboon Jenjaratvan.

Makeup by Vinit Boonchaisri.

Model: Maria Lynn Ehren. Blouse, Anne Klein; jacket and trousers, Joan & David; bag, Prada; earrings, Disaya.

> 91

65 Fashion

Garden variety—stylishly fresh and in full bloom.

68 Spotlight

Designer Thakoon Panichgul spots his favorite shops. BY JENNIFER CHEN 70 Icon

Chanel’s ballet flats: wear them anywhere, anytime. BY LYNN YAEGER 72 Beauty

36 NewsFlash

Halcyon Halong, comfort food, Lanna life and more.

46 Eat

Tasty treats at a Middle Eastern food enclave in Bangkok.

BY PAUL EHRLICH 48 When You Are In…

The lowdown on Beijing’s top sites, shops, restaurants and tours.

54 Drink

Three Asian teahouses that give tradition a modern twist.

BY JENNIFER CHEN 56 Bring It Back

Camera buffs can pick up some classic deals in Manila. BY JESSICA ZAFRA 58 The Arts

Southeast Asian art finds a hip new capital—Siem Reap.

BY RON GLUCKMAN 14

73 The List

T+L staffers share their favorite souvenirs from around the region. > 65

75–91 T+L Journal 75 Outdoors

Among the treetops in Brunei’s Ulu Temburong National Park.

BY PHIL MACDONALD 80 Mind Body

Tourists are checking into Asia’s top hospitals by the droves.

BY PAUL EHRLICH 84 Music

Hong Kong rocks its way onto the Asian musical stage.

BY DAVE WONG 88 Adventure

For some travelers, getting there first is what it’s all about.

BY JEFF WISE 91 Driving

Rumbling around north Vietnam.

BY NEWLEY PURNELL

F R O M FA R L E F T : S I T T I P U N C H A I T E R D S I R I ; B E N WAT T S ; C O U R T E SY O F E X P L O R E I N D O C H I N A

35–62 Insider

Keeping your skin healthy at 10,000 meters. BY ELIZABETH WOODSON

(Editor’s Note) 04.08

I

Nancy Novogrod joins Matt Leppard during her recent visit to Bangkok.

WAS RECENTLY HONORED to attend an industry event here in Bangkok

with Nancy Novogrod, editor-in-chief of the U.S. edition of Travel + Leisure. Nancy has been at the helm of T+L in the United States since 1993, and is largely responsible for shaping the publication into the world’s leading travel and lifestyle magazine. She has also led the development of its ever-increasing but close-knit family of international editions. As one of the most respected figures in the travel industry, Nancy’s enthusiasm for T+L Southeast Asia is one of the biggest compliments we could hope to receive. But reader feedback is just as important, and I’m pleased to present our first batch of readers’ letters in this issue. You may agree with them, you may disagree, or you may have your own opinions. So let us know! Put fingers to keyboards and tell us exactly what you think about our first five issues, as well as new places to visit in Southeast Asia.

Fresh takes on familiar destinations are also welcome. As a passionate music fan—and a rusty guitar player—I read Dave Wong’s article about the exploding Hong Kong entertainment scene (“Sonic Boomtown,” page 84) with more than a passing interest. It seems that the SAR is developing its own musical identity—one that suits all tastes, be they blues, rock, jazz, or even the much-maligned, but hugely popular, Cantopop. Indonesian music fans, meanwhile, will no doubt be city’s hidden nightlife (“Jakarta’s Beat,” page 60). But this isn’t our “music issue”— elsewhere, you’ll find an exploration of Siem Reap’s art scene (“Southeast Asia’s New Art Capital,” page 58); a first-hand account of a trek across northern Vietnam on a Soviet-era motorcycle (“Riding High,” page 91); a guide to buying art abroad; plus our regular style content and lavish features. Who could ask for more?

Answers—and more letters, please—to our usual address.—MATT LEPPARD TRAVEL + L EISURE EDITORS, WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE THE INDUSTRY’S MOST RELIABLE SOURCES. WHILE ON ASSIGNMENT, THEY TRAVEL INCOGNITO WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND DO NOT TAKE PRESS TRIPS OR ACCEPT FREE TRAVEL OF ANY KIND.

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F R O M T O P : N A PAT R AV E E W AT ; C H E N P O VA N O N T

familiar with indie act Santamonica, who take us on a whistle-stop tour of their

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-AT-LARGE ART DIRECTOR FEATURES EDITORS

ASSISTANT EDITOR EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

Matt Leppard Paul Ehrlich Fah Sakharet Jennifer Chen Phil Macdonald Ellie Brannan Wannapha Nawayon Napamon Roongwitoo Wasinee Chantakorn

CHAIRMAN PRESIDENT PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

J.S. Uberoi Egasith Chotpakditrakul Rasina Uberoi

DESIGNERS

PUBLISHER VICE PRESIDENT / ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGERS CONSULTANT, HONG KONG/MACAU CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER PRODUCTION MANAGER PRODUCTION GROUP CIRCULATION MANAGER

Robert Fernhout Lucas W. Krump Michael K. Hirsch Kin Kamarulzaman Shea Stanley Gaurav Kumar Kanda Thanakornwongskul Supalak Krewsasaen Porames Chinwongs

AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING CORPORATION PRESIDENT/CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR VICE PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, STRATEGIC INSIGHTS, MARKETING & SALES EXECUTIVE EDITOR, INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHING DIRECTOR, INTERNATIONAL OPERATIONS ASSOCIATE, INTERNATIONAL

Ed Kelly Mark V. Stanich Paul B. Francis Nancy Novogrod Jean-Paul Kyrillos Cara S. David Mark Orwoll Thomas D. Storms Lawrence Chesler

TRAVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA VOL. 2, ISSUE 4 Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2851-6963; Fax: +852 2851-1933; under license from American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Produced and distributed by Media Transasia Thailand Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoeynue, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: +66 2 204-2370.

Printed by Comform Co., Ltd. (+66 2 368-2942–7). Color separation by Classic Scan Co., Ltd. (+66 2 291-7575).

This edition is published by permission of AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING CORPORATION 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America.

Reproduction in whole or in part without the consent of the copyright owner is prohibited. © Media Transasia Thailand Ltd. in respect of the published edition.

SUBSCRIPTIONS Subscription enquiries: www.travelandleisuresea.com/subscribe

ADVERTISING Advertising enquiries: e-mail advertising@mediatransasia.com

(Contributors) 04.08

Philipp Engelhorn

Stephen Metcalf

“Brunei feels more like the Middle East than anything in Southeast Asia—the level of luxury at The Empire Hotel is mind-blowing,” says Engelhorn of his shoot (“Treetop Treats,” page 75). From Germany, Engelhorn worked in New York for six years before relocating to Hong Kong in 2002. His work has appeared in Newsweek, TIME and Vogue UK.

The Brooklyn-based “A motorbike trip through writer, who reported on the remote north of Tasmania’s jagged Vietnam is a remarkable coastlines, undiscovered experience,” says Purnell, wine trails and innovative an American journalist chefs (“Pure Tasmania,” living in Bangkok. page 132), traveled 30 (“Riding High,” page 91). hours to reach the island “The landscape is striking off the coast of southeast and to take in everything Australia. “It’s the state’s from the seat of a agro-tourism that makes motorbike is just the trip especially incredible.” Purnell worthwhile.” Metcalf also writes for a variety of writes for Slate and The publications, including New York Times.

The New York Times.

Newley Purnell

A BOV E , F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F K EV I N M I L L E R ; CO U RT ESY O F LO R I E N H O L L A N D ; K EV I N M I L L E R B E L O W, F R O M FA R L E F T : C O U R T E SY O F P H I L L I P P E N G E L H O R N ; C O U R T E SY O F S T E P H E N M E T C A L F ; C O U R T E SY O F N E W L E Y P U R N E L L

H

aving lived in Kuala Lumpur since 2000, Lorien Holland was more than happy to write about the revitalization of her adopted home (“KL Comes of Age,” page 120). “I had great fun checking out the venues that have Twentyone Kitchen & popped up over the past few years,” she Bar, in Kuala Lumpur.

Top: Kevin Miller. Right: says. “It was like catching up with an old Lorien Holland. friend.” Holland has been living and reporting on Asia since 1992 and has contributed to the Financial Times and Newsweek. Canadian photographer Kevin Miller, who took the photographs for the feature, shares Holland’s sentiments. “I was pleasantly surprised at what I found while roaming around Kuala Lumpur. It is a colorful and vibrant city.” Miller, who is based in Bangkok, has contributed to the Robb Report, Showboats International and various in-flight magazines.

(Letters)04.08 LETTER OF THE MONTH Changing Perspectives Cheers to Travel + Leisure! At last, a Southeast Asia edition—it seems our region has finally arrived. I was especially excited when I saw your coverage of Carlos Celdran’s walking tours in Manila [“Walking in Imelda’s Shoes,” January 2008].

I have also tried his tour and I was amazed at how simple it was to make something so common to a Manila native so utterly new and fascinating. He was dead right in saying that, “If you want to change the way Manila looks, change the way you look at Manila.” I think the same applies to everything in Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia—the articles reflect the fact that travel can also benefit locals, sometimes just by shifting their perspectives.

—E LG A

REYES, MANILA

Cultural Center My girlfriend and I spent a little less than a week in Hoi An and Hue in Vietnam last year and were amazed by the fact that we were able to condense both beach and historical holidays into a single trip. In a few days we found ourselves relaxing on gorgeous whitesand beaches in the morning, driving 15 minutes into Hoi An Old Town in the afternoon and walking through beautiful 200-year-old Chinese houses, temples and pagodas. With the notable

✉

exception of Bali, in my experience beach resorts in Southeast Asia tend to be in a cultural vacuum, so I was excited to find this not the case in central Vietnam. I’m happy to see Vietnam covered in your publication, and hope you will continue to cover it extensively in the future.

—J O H N WAG N E R , BA N G KO K Train of Thought I thoroughly enjoyed your guide to Bangkok’s SkyTrain system and some of the attractions close to the main stops [“Station to Station,” December 2007]. But I feel that it would have been more complete if it had included information on the MRT subway system and other public transport linkups in the city and its environs, like buses and trains, plus the proposed extensions to the SkyTrain system.

With roads in the city still snarled up most days despite these alternatives, it’s up to magazines like Travel + Leisure to educate the masses on how to reduce pollution and all the other problems that come with such heavy traffic.

—M A R K B R A DY , BA N G KO K Photo Fan Your Strategies guide to photography [“Photography 101,” January 2008] was absolutely spot-on. As you noted in the article, photography is an essential part of the travel experience these days, and with a few hints and tips from the pros (and T+L photographers certainly qualify as experts), it’s more than possible to get professional results.

—K AT H E R I N E L E U N G , S I N G A P O R E

E-MAIL T+L SEND YOUR LETTERS TO TLEDITOR @ MEDIATRANSASIA.COM AND LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS ON RECENT STORIES OR NEW PLACES TO VISIT. LETTERS CHOSEN MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY AND SPACE. THE LETTER OF THE MONTH RECEIVES A FREE ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO T+L SOUTHEAST ASIA (WITHIN SOUTHEAST ASIA ONLY).

Indulge your passions, day and night.

www.spain.info 541 Orchard Road

# 09-04 Liat Tower

NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE OF SPAIN SINGAPORE 238881 Tel: 65 6 73 73 008 Fax: 65 6 73 73 173

singapore@tourspain.es

NOW IN SOUTHEAST ASIA

Q:

INDULGE YOURSELF

04.08

What are some good websites that

Foreign Affairs and International Trade

provide up-to-date travel maps?

(www.voyage.gc.ca) are urging a “high degree of caution” (both third-tier warnings); while the U.K.’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office (www. fco.gov.uk) suggests nationals should “exercise caution,” an advisory it uses for a number of countries, including Thailand. However, all sensibly warn their nationals to avoid demonstrations, as they may turn violent with little or no warning. Also, they warn against taking photographs of any demonstrations, the military or police.

—PETER PELZ, MARYLAND, U.S.A.

IEKJ>;7IJ 7I?7

(Ask T+L)

At www.schmap.com you’ll find downloadable maps and guides for 200 cities in Europe, the United States, Canada, Australia and New Zealand.

The website also plots popular tourist spots and even suggests walking routes.

Schmap will add Asian and South American maps in the coming months.

U.K.-based www.multimap.com offers detailed street maps with highlighted points of interest for hundreds of locations throughout the United States, Europe and Asia. Travelers can also get user-friendly driving and walking directions, along with local weather conditions. Viamichelin.com allows you to create maps by marking museums, theaters and Michelinstarred restaurants. Customize your itineraries using Google Maps, at www. travelandleisure.com.

Do money changers at airports always offer poor exchange rates? Is it best to change your money at home or at the destination?

—CHRIS SMITH, BANGKOK

Airport exchange rates depend on which country you’re in. At airports such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok, the rate offered at the airport is only slightly lower than what you In light of last year’s demonstrations, get in town. But in Hong Kong—and is it now safe to travel in Burma? some other Asian destinations—airport money changers do quote significantly —ANCHALEE SIRIPONGSE, BANGKOK lower rates. Still, changing money at In September 2007, mass protests led your destination will almost always

by Buddhist monks were ruthlessly save you money; in fact, you should suppressed by Burma’s military only change a small amount of money junta, resulting in mass arrests and (enough for transport, say, US$100) at an unknown number of deaths. As home if you’re arriving at a destination a result, visitor numbers dwindled to almost zero. Since this unrest, calm has early in the morning, when currency exchange counters might be closed. You returned. The U.S. State Department (www.travel.state.gov) has no current travel might want to consider just drawing money out of ATM’s, but keep in mind warning on Burma. Both Australia’s that banks in some countries charge Department of Foreign Affairs (www. high fees for using your card abroad. ✚ smarttraveller.com.au) and Canada’s

THE WORLD’S LEADING TRAVEL MAGAZINE www.travelandleisuresea.com/subscribe

✉

E-MAIL T+L SEND YOUR QUESTIONS TO TLEDITOR @ MEDIATRANSASIA.COM. QUESTIONS CHOSEN FOR PUBLICATION MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY AND SPACE .

Special Promotional Feature

T

he Millennium Resort Patong, Phuket is now open for business in the heart of the famous Patong Beach in Phuket—Thailand’s leading resort town. Combining world-class leisure facilities with direct access to the Phuket Jungceylon shopping complex, the Millennium Resort Patong is truly a Àve-star luxury resort ideal for relaxing getaways, but with a unique setting in an indulgent retail and entertainment experience.

The infrastructure, lush surroundings and urban setting of the Millennium Resort Patong, Phuket present travelers with an experience unparalleled by any other. Landscaping forms a vital element for the interior décor and in the overall design ethic—this urban resort offers guests a taste of modern Asian-Thai chic, blending both intimacy and sophistication. The hotel is also conveniently located on Rat-Uthit Road at the intersection of Bangla Street in Patong, one of the most popular areas in Phuket and an area that is packed with nightlife attractions.

The resort itself presents a conceptually unique infrastructure—two wings known as the Beachside and Lakeside.

Beachside The Beachside wing comprises a total of 197 rooms in a Àve-star, stylish setting. Part of the property sits on top of the retail center and is ideal for upmarket tour groups and families. The Bar 8°, which is located at the hotel’s modern and contemporary atrium, offers live music, courtesy of leading bands. This wing boasts superior and deluxe rooms, as well as junior suites complemented with spacious balconies and additional pantry facilities. The Beachside’s restaurant, Straits Dining, serves a buffet breakfast and offers delectable Southeast Asian cuisines plus live music performances.

Lakeside Peacefully tucked in the exclusive enclave of the Jungceylon development, the Lakeside’s open-aired concept portrays a tropical and relaxed ambience with rich yet soft Thai culture, which combines Portuguese elements. The Lakeside consists of 224 superior and deluxe rooms, as well as cabanas and executive suites rooms featuring all the amenities that guests expect from a Àve-star resort. The hotel also sits near a mega-mart, a department store, a multiplex cinema and a bowling alley. Perfect for business travelers, the Lakeside offers comprehensive meeting facilities for the corporate traveler. Its F&B outlet, Bistro, is an all-day dining restaurant, which serves an à la carte menu comprising Western, Continental and Thai specialties. The Lounge 98° offers a cozy, yet modern setting for guests to unwind or relax with friends.

Recreational facilities The resort features two swimming pools, one of which is an outdoor pool with its own bar, surrounded by cabanastyle guestrooms. Other leisure amenities include a state-of-the-art Àtness center and luxurious spa facilities.

Millennium Resort Patong Phuket, 199 Rat-Uthit 200 Pee Road, Patong, Kathu, Phuket 83150, Thailand. Tel: +66 76 601 999; Fax: +66 76 601 986; Online: www.millenniumhotels.com.

Bringing Àve-star, exclusive luxury and a unique setting in one of Phuket’s most happening districts

Special Promotional Feature

T

he Millennium Resort Patong, Phuket is now open for business in the heart of the famous Patong Beach in Phuket—Thailand’s leading resort town. Combining world-class leisure facilities with direct access to the Phuket Jungceylon shopping complex, the Millennium Resort Patong is truly a Àve-star luxury resort ideal for relaxing getaways, but with a unique setting in an indulgent retail and entertainment experience.

The infrastructure, lush surroundings and urban setting of the Millennium Resort Patong, Phuket present travelers with an experience unparalleled by any other. Landscaping forms a vital element for the interior décor and in the overall design ethic—this urban resort offers guests a taste of modern Asian-Thai chic, blending both intimacy and sophistication. The hotel is also conveniently located on Rat-Uthit Road at the intersection of Bangla Street in Patong, one of the most popular areas in Phuket and an area that is packed with nightlife attractions.

The resort itself presents a conceptually unique infrastructure—two wings known as the Beachside and Lakeside.

Beachside The Beachside wing comprises a total of 197 rooms in a Àve-star, stylish setting. Part of the property sits on top of the retail center and is ideal for upmarket tour groups and families. The Bar 8°, which is located at the hotel’s modern and contemporary atrium, offers live music, courtesy of leading bands. This wing boasts superior and deluxe rooms, as well as junior suites complemented with spacious balconies and additional pantry facilities. The Beachside’s restaurant, Straits Dining, serves a buffet breakfast and offers delectable Southeast Asian cuisines plus live music performances.

Lakeside Peacefully tucked in the exclusive enclave of the Jungceylon development, the Lakeside’s open-aired concept portrays a tropical and relaxed ambience with rich yet soft Thai culture, which combines Portuguese elements. The Lakeside consists of 224 superior and deluxe rooms, as well as cabanas and executive suites rooms featuring all the amenities that guests expect from a Àve-star resort. The hotel also sits near a mega-mart, a department store, a multiplex cinema and a bowling alley. Perfect for business travelers, the Lakeside offers comprehensive meeting facilities for the corporate traveler. Its F&B outlet, Bistro, is an all-day dining restaurant, which serves an à la carte menu comprising Western, Continental and Thai specialties. The Lounge 98° offers a cozy, yet modern setting for guests to unwind or relax with friends.

Recreational facilities The resort features two swimming pools, one of which is an outdoor pool with its own bar, surrounded by cabanastyle guestrooms. Other leisure amenities include a state-of-the-art Àtness center and luxurious spa facilities.

Millennium Resort Patong Phuket, 199 Rat-Uthit 200 Pee Road, Patong, Kathu, Phuket 83150, Thailand. Tel: +66 76 601 999; Fax: +66 76 601 986; Online: www.millenniumhotels.com.

Bringing Àve-star, exclusive luxury and a unique setting in one of Phuket’s most happening districts

(Best Deals) 04.08

redcapitalclub.com.cn). What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; dinner; a sauna for two; and a yoga session. Cost US$288, double, through May 15. Savings Up to 20 percent.

The Sheraton Hua Hin.

■ MALAYSIA The Spa Indulgence at CHI package at the Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa

(60-88/327-888; www.shangri-la.com) in Kota Kinabalu. What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; 2½ hours of CHI journey treatments; tea and juice; and a souvenir.

Cost RM2,220, double, through May 31.

Savings Up to 40 percent.

■ SOUTH KOREA City Breaks package at The Westin Chosun Seoul (82-2/771-0500; www. westin.com/seoul). What’s Included A local mobile phone; open bar and happy hour; all-day tea, coffee, soft drinks and snacks; Internet access with in-room PC; shoeshine; and two hours’ use of meeting room in the business center. Cost KRW290,000 per night, two-night minimum stay, single, through June 30.

Savings Up to 40 percent.

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■ CHINA Hot Spring Getaway package at the Shangri-La Hotel, Fuzhou (86-591/87988288; www.shangri-la.com). What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; one-day tour to Huang Chu Lin Forest including hot spring treatment for two people and transportation; and late check-out until 4 P.M. Cost RMB2,380, double, through June 30. Savings Up to 30 percent.

The RitzCarlton Beijing.

A PRIL 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

Sights and Sounds of Beijing package at The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street (86-10/6629-6660; www.ritzcarlton. com). What’s Included Two nights’

accommodation; round-trip airport transfer; a Peking duck lunch or dinner; two tickets for a Peking opera performance, including return limousine transport and pre-opera drinks; and a 45-minute Beijing Body Massage. Cost RMB7,750, double, through December 31. Savings Up to 60 percent.

Raffles Gourmet package at Raffles Beijing Hotel (86-10/8500-4363; www. raffles.com). What’s Included Gourmet four-course dinner for two with wine; and a Raffles exclusive gift. Cost RMB2,500 per night, double, through December 31.

Savings Up to 25 percent.

Romantic Spring package at Beijing’s Red Capital Ranch (86-10/8401-8886; www.

C O U R T E S Y O F D U S I T D 2 C H I A N G M A I ; C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N D H YAT T E R A W A N B A N G K O K

Take a deserved break. Here are 14 incredible packages—from Sydney to Seoul—just for you

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F S H E R AT O N H U A H I N R E S O R T & S PA ;

Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F S H A N G R I - L A’ S T A N J U N G A R U R E S O R T & S P A ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N B E I J I N G , F I N A N C I A L S T R E E T

■ AUSTRALIA Romantic Autumn Chill Out package at Diamant Hotel Sydney (61-2/9295-8803; www.eighthotels.com). What’s Included Three nights’ accommodation; and upgrade to a District View Room. Cost A$800, double, through May 31. Savings Up to 30 percent.

DEAL OF THE MONTH

■ THAILAND Isawan Spa Cottage Experience at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok (662/254-1234; www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com).

What’s Included Evening cocktails; and a one-hour in-cottage spa treatment. Cost Bt20,000, double, through September 30.

Savings Up to 25 percent.

Escape to the Tropics package at the Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa (66-

32/708-000; www.sheraton.com/huahin).

What’s Included Reduced rates; roundtrip airport transfers. Cost Bt6,100 per night, four-night minimum stay, through October 31. Savings Up to 30 percent.

Shopping Paradise package at the JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok (66-2/6567700; www.marriott.com). What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; a one-hour body massage; and SkyTrain day passes for two per day. Cost Bt8,660, double, through June 30. Savings Up to 20 percent.

Amazing Experiences package at Bangkok’s lebua at State Tower (662/624-9999; www.lebua.com). What’s Included Three nights’ accommodation; round-trip airport transfer; champagne and strawberries; dinner; in-suite spa privileges; a cooking class; and cocktails.

Cost US$2,000, double, through June 30.

Savings Up to 39 percent.

welcome basket; two 60-minute massages; two yoga sessions; 20 percent off spa treatments; an afternoon tea; and a three-course dinner. Cost Bt36,000, double, through October 31.

Savings Up to 25 percent.

■ JAPAN Urban Gourmet Escape package at the Hilton Tokyo (81-3/3344-5111; www.hilton. com). What’s Included Dinner; chocolate and cocktails; Korres bath amenities; and late check-out. Cost Y24,950 per person per night, through December 31. Savings Up to 30 percent.

—NAPAMON ROONGWITOO

THAILAND Delightful Studio Suite package at the dusitD2 Chiang Mai (66-53/999999; www.dusit.com).

What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; round-trip airport transfer; one bottle of wine; daily gift; 20 percent discount on laundry; 10 percent discount on food in all outlets; 45 minutes’ use of Internet per day; complimentary coffee, tea and soft drinks; and daily aperitifs with snacks. Cost Bt15,999, double, through December 22. Savings Up to 50 percent.

Dining at the Hilton Tokyo.

A bedroom at the dusitD2 Chiang Mai.

Spa Package at AKA Resort Hua Hin (6632/618-900; www.akaresorts.com). What’s Included Three nights’ accommodation; a

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(Best Deals) 04.08

redcapitalclub.com.cn). What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; dinner; a sauna for two; and a yoga session. Cost US$288, double, through May 15. Savings Up to 20 percent.

The Sheraton Hua Hin.

■ MALAYSIA The Spa Indulgence at CHI package at the Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa

(60-88/327-888; www.shangri-la.com) in Kota Kinabalu. What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; 2½ hours of CHI journey treatments; tea and juice; and a souvenir.

Cost RM2,220, double, through May 31.

Savings Up to 40 percent.

■ SOUTH KOREA City Breaks package at The Westin Chosun Seoul (82-2/771-0500; www. westin.com/seoul). What’s Included A local mobile phone; open bar and happy hour; all-day tea, coffee, soft drinks and snacks; Internet access with in-room PC; shoeshine; and two hours’ use of meeting room in the business center. Cost KRW290,000 per night, two-night minimum stay, single, through June 30.

Savings Up to 40 percent.

28

■ CHINA Hot Spring Getaway package at the Shangri-La Hotel, Fuzhou (86-591/87988288; www.shangri-la.com). What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; one-day tour to Huang Chu Lin Forest including hot spring treatment for two people and transportation; and late check-out until 4 P.M. Cost RMB2,380, double, through June 30. Savings Up to 30 percent.

The RitzCarlton Beijing.

A PRIL 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

Sights and Sounds of Beijing package at The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street (86-10/6629-6660; www.ritzcarlton. com). What’s Included Two nights’

accommodation; round-trip airport transfer; a Peking duck lunch or dinner; two tickets for a Peking opera performance, including return limousine transport and pre-opera drinks; and a 45-minute Beijing Body Massage. Cost RMB7,750, double, through December 31. Savings Up to 60 percent.

Raffles Gourmet package at Raffles Beijing Hotel (86-10/8500-4363; www. raffles.com). What’s Included Gourmet four-course dinner for two with wine; and a Raffles exclusive gift. Cost RMB2,500 per night, double, through December 31.

Savings Up to 25 percent.

Romantic Spring package at Beijing’s Red Capital Ranch (86-10/8401-8886; www.

C O U R T E S Y O F D U S I T D 2 C H I A N G M A I ; C O U R T E S Y O F G R A N D H YAT T E R A W A N B A N G K O K

Take a deserved break. Here are 14 incredible packages—from Sydney to Seoul—just for you

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F S H E R AT O N H U A H I N R E S O R T & S PA ;

Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort & Spa.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F S H A N G R I - L A’ S T A N J U N G A R U R E S O R T & S P A ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E R I T Z - C A R LT O N B E I J I N G , F I N A N C I A L S T R E E T

■ AUSTRALIA Romantic Autumn Chill Out package at Diamant Hotel Sydney (61-2/9295-8803; www.eighthotels.com). What’s Included Three nights’ accommodation; and upgrade to a District View Room. Cost A$800, double, through May 31. Savings Up to 30 percent.

DEAL OF THE MONTH

■ THAILAND Isawan Spa Cottage Experience at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok (662/254-1234; www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com).

What’s Included Evening cocktails; and a one-hour in-cottage spa treatment. Cost Bt20,000, double, through September 30.

Savings Up to 25 percent.

Escape to the Tropics package at the Sheraton Hua Hin Resort & Spa (66-

32/708-000; www.sheraton.com/huahin).

What’s Included Reduced rates; roundtrip airport transfers. Cost Bt6,100 per night, four-night minimum stay, through October 31. Savings Up to 30 percent.

Shopping Paradise package at the JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok (66-2/6567700; www.marriott.com). What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; a one-hour body massage; and SkyTrain day passes for two per day. Cost Bt8,660, double, through June 30. Savings Up to 20 percent.

Amazing Experiences package at Bangkok’s lebua at State Tower (662/624-9999; www.lebua.com). What’s Included Three nights’ accommodation; round-trip airport transfer; champagne and strawberries; dinner; in-suite spa privileges; a cooking class; and cocktails.

Cost US$2,000, double, through June 30.

Savings Up to 39 percent.

welcome basket; two 60-minute massages; two yoga sessions; 20 percent off spa treatments; an afternoon tea; and a three-course dinner. Cost Bt36,000, double, through October 31.

Savings Up to 25 percent.

■ JAPAN Urban Gourmet Escape package at the Hilton Tokyo (81-3/3344-5111; www.hilton. com). What’s Included Dinner; chocolate and cocktails; Korres bath amenities; and late check-out. Cost Y24,950 per person per night, through December 31. Savings Up to 30 percent.

—NAPAMON ROONGWITOO

THAILAND Delightful Studio Suite package at the dusitD2 Chiang Mai (66-53/999999; www.dusit.com).

What’s Included Two nights’ accommodation; round-trip airport transfer; one bottle of wine; daily gift; 20 percent discount on laundry; 10 percent discount on food in all outlets; 45 minutes’ use of Internet per day; complimentary coffee, tea and soft drinks; and daily aperitifs with snacks. Cost Bt15,999, double, through December 22. Savings Up to 50 percent.

Dining at the Hilton Tokyo.

A bedroom at the dusitD2 Chiang Mai.

Spa Package at AKA Resort Hua Hin (6632/618-900; www.akaresorts.com). What’s Included Three nights’ accommodation; a

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(Strategies) 04.08 DESPITE THE RISKS, IT’S STILL POSSIBLE TO LOG ON SAFELY BY FOLLOWING THESE PRECAUTIONS

1 LOCK UP Your first line of defense is your firewall. Turning it on takes just seconds, and it will slam the door on uninvited guests by filtering Wi-Fi messages. Many systems come with built-in firewalls (in Windows XP, check the Control Panel for your Security Center, and on a Mac, view your Sharing options under System Preferences). You can also buy and install more sophisticated versions, such as Norton Personal Firewall, for extra protection.

2 DISABLE FILE SHARING If your system is set to share files, not only can other users see what’s on your laptop, but they can also tamper with information. “That’s the first thing a hacker is going to look for: ‘Is there an open file that I can get to?’” explains McKenzie. To check your sharing status in Windows XP, rightclick on your main folders (Documents and Settings, for example), view Properties and look for the Sharing tab. Mac users can adjust options under System Preferences.

Wireless networks have made it possible for travelers to stay connected, but hotspots aren’t always a boon. Here, five simple ways to protect your computer. By WING SZE TANG

F

2005 TO 2007, the number of Wi-Fi hotspots at hotels and resorts around the globe jumped 120 percent, from 16,675 to 36,626, according to one estimate. But technology experts warn that these public-access points can be hazardous to your computer and your privacy.

“People underestimate how insecure Wi-Fi really is,” says Kevin McKenzie, founder and CEO of JiWire Inc., which maintains a global hotspot directory at www.jiwire.com. Essentially, your e-mail messages are being broadcast like radio waves—and others can easily “eavesdrop.” Hackers can spy on your activities and even steal passwords, files and other valuable information. ✚

30

ROM

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4 PICK YOUR NETWORKS CAREFULLY Make sure your computer isn’t set to automatically join any open network and that you know which ones you do log on to. “Too many times, people open their laptops, find a signal, and connect,” says McKenzie. But they run the risk of connecting to a hotspot that’s not secure or, worse, to an “evil twin” — a hotspot that is broadcast by a hacker for the purpose of attracting unsuspecting users.

5 CHOOSE SECURE SITES If you’re making a purchase or sending private data, make sure the site is secure. “Typically, this would be represented with a padlock in your browser or a URL that begins with 'https.’ Assume that on sites without the ‘s’ after ‘http,’ you put your information at risk,” says Christopher Rouland, chief technology officer at IBM Internet Security Systems.

NIGEL COX

Wi-Fi Security Alert

3 SPEAK IN CODE Ask your office’s IT department if you have access to a virtual private network (VPN), or sign up for your own with services such as HotSpotVPN (www.hotspotvpn.com; from US$9 a month) or JiWire’s Hotspot Helper (www.jiwire.com; US$25 per year). VPN’s encode all your messages, so they’ll be indecipherable to any snoops (though they’re then decoded for the intended recipients).

art

Six Tips for Buying Art Abroad Looking to acquire a bargain canvas or invest in a sculpture by a noted artist? The path to finding the perfect piece is not always easy—here’s how to avoid common pitfalls. By WING SZE TANG

S

OMETIMES THE MOST

cherished souvenir is the work of an artist who has captured the spirit of a destination.

Before you make that next purchase, read on for six simple steps to follow before you buy that painting, photograph, sculpture or other piece.

1. KNOW WHAT YOU WANT While finding a piece of art that speaks to you requires a little serendipity, consider your overall goals. “Decide if you want to look for a souvenir typical 32

of the area you are visiting, or a work of fine art,” advises Christel Dahlén, a former art consultant and now the director of international relations at the Chelsea Art Museum in New York. If you’re purchasing a relatively inexpensive memento, then your biggest concern will be getting it home.

But if you’re looking for a sound investment, or toward developing a collection that speaks to your aesthetic vision, do your research on the artists or the work you’re interested in before you leave home.

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

2. CONSULT WITH AN EXPERT “When you’re spending really serious money, have some really serious people advising you,” says avid New York collector Michael Mendelsohn, founder of Briddge Art Strategies, and artworld consultant. He suggests working with an impartial expert—a professional appraiser or a fellow collector—who can help you assess a piece based on high-resolution digital photos, which established galleries can provide. An appraiser can often also help confirm that the work is authentic and has a valid title of ownership.

Expert guidance is especially crucial if you’re in the market for antiquities.

“Buying antiquities overseas is very tricky,” says Dorit Straus, worldwide fine arts manager for the Chubb Group of Insurance Companies. “There’s the issue of authenticity—there are very good fakes out there. But the bigger concern is whether the items were illegally excavated. It’s a potential minefield,” she says, which has tripped up the Getty Museum in California and other institutions, as well as individual collectors.

3. COVER YOUR BASES As you would with any investment, protect yourself with insurance before you leave home. “It’s difficult to make arrangements for insurance while you’re traveling overseas,” Straus says.

First, check the fine print on your existing policies, whether you have a stand-alone policy specifically for art, or one attached to your homeowner’s insurance. Sometimes these policies include extensions, so you can acquire new pieces abroad and declare them after you return. If you’re not insured before you go, it’s still possible to get temporary coverage through a good shipping agent. Straus advises against it, as it’s typically more costly and often carries exemptions for fine art, but some policies may protect your sculpture, painting, photograph or

other work when it’s most vulnerable to damage: during transport back to your home country. Finally, check with your credit card company regarding protections they offer for items that you may want charge.

4. CHOOSE A TRUSTWORTHY SELLER The easiest and best way to ensure a smooth purchase is to buy from prominent, well-established galleries, or at major art fairs such as Switzerland’s Art Basel and Frieze, in London, where art dealers are vetted thoroughly. The fairs have a reputation to uphold, and you can be confident that the work will be authentic. (In the unlikely event that it’s not, you’ll also have recourse.) “A good gallery should do absolutely everything for you, from getting you a cup of tea when you walk in, to giving advice on lighting the work when it’s arrived at your house,” says William Noortman, managing director of

Noortman Master Paintings, a gallery based in Maastricht, home of one of the world’s most important fairs.

Dealers should be able to handle transportation, the customs process, and any importing problems, but if you are arranging shipping yourself, consult the International Convention of Exhibition and Fine Arts Transporters (www.icefat.org), an organization that can recommend 80 prescreened shippers.

5. GET A FAIR PRICE To judge whether the asking price is reasonable, research the figures for other works by the same artist from the same period. Be wary of offers that seem too good to be true. “Never buy something for US$5,000 that the dealer tells you is worth US$100,000,” advises Mendelsohn. Reputable sellers will price works according to market value, so such “discounts” are a red flag. “At a gallery or antiques dealer of good

standing, as a rule of thumb the biggest discount you can negotiate is about 10 to 15 percent,” says Dahlén, of the Chelsea Art Museum, or sellers may also be willing to offer a discount on shipping and handling charges.

6. FOLLOW THE RULES Keep in mind that many countries have laws to protect their cultural property, and that your home country might have specific restrictions on what art and antiquities can be imported. For instance, if you’re American, you can’t bring back that terra-cotta statue from Mali or colonial-period painting from Peru, unless you have a special export permit. Consulting a licensed customs broker can also help you steer clear of trouble. In general, original fine art created entirely by hand, including paintings and drawings, as well as antiques that are at least 100 years old, should not present any problems. ✚

Top Private Art Guides If you’re buying—or just browsing—and you don’t want to go it alone, these guides can give you the inside edge. By HILLARY GERONEMUS

I L L U S T R AT E D BY G U Y B I L L O U T

strategies | buying

PARIS Who Brigitte Vergnolle Paris Addict; 33-6/09-9409-21; parisaddict@orange.fr What You’ll See You’ve got to know more than a thing or two if concierges at luxury hotels across the city rely on you for the best private guides.

Such is the case with Vergnolle, who runs Paris Addict, a discreet company discovered only by word of mouth. Vergnolle and her team of guides, all of whom have degrees in history or art history, can arrange just about anything, from private meetings with art and antiques dealers to a behind-the-scenes tour of Versailles.

ROME Who Maria Cristina Paoluzzi 39-06/8535-8892; mariacristina.paoluzzi@ fastwebnet.it What You’ll See Don’t let her Ph.D. in art history throw you. A professor at the University of Chieti, and the go-to guide for visiting dignitaries (the elder George Bush and Mikhail Gorbachev among them), Paoluzzi can just as easily guide you through the top contemporary-art galleries and private studios as she can those specializing in antiquities.

Her favorite stops: Magazzini d’Arte Moderna, Galleria dell’Oca and Galleria il Ponte.

BUDAPEST Who Dianne C. Brown 36-209/549-941; dcbrown@ starkingnet.hu What You’ll See An art consultant to the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace and resident of the city since 1993, Brown knows the artists who give this particularly vibrant scene its unique energy. If you’re a fan of modern art, request a visit to the Art Factory, an industrial-style exhibition space for upand-coming artists, including sculptor Mamikon Yengibarian (whose work is also on view at the Four Seasons) and Márta Kucsora, an abstract painter.

BEIJING Who Angela Li Angela Li Art Consultancy; 852/3571-8200; www.alac.com.hk What You’ll See Though based in Hong Kong, Li has been tapped into the Beijing art scene for years. If you’re serious about acquiring contemporary Chinese art, you can count on Li—who serves as a consultant to corporations, hotels and private collectors—to guide you to the best up-andcoming stars, such as photographer Chen Jiagang and painter Huang Hancheng. Just interested in looking? Then drop by Li’s newly opened Hong Kong gallery, Contemporary by Angela Li (Ground floor, 90–92 Hollywood Rd., Central).

TOKYO Who Nicole Fall and Charles Spreckley Bespoke Tokyo; 81-80/50258711; www.bespoketokyo.jp What You’ll See Sign on with Fall and Spreckley, and you’ll be in the company of two plugged-in locals. The duo will guide you through what they dub the “Tokyo Labyrinth”—nameless streets and hidden stops otherwise impossible to find. Their favorite art experience: 101 Tokyo, a new contemporary-art show taking place in a converted school in Akihabara. You’ll get private viewings, along with a personalized “art safari” led by independent Tokyo-based gallery owners.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

.

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33

art

Six Tips for Buying Art Abroad Looking to acquire a bargain canvas or invest in a sculpture by a noted artist? The path to finding the perfect piece is not always easy—here’s how to avoid common pitfalls. By WING SZE TANG

S

OMETIMES THE MOST

cherished souvenir is the work of an artist who has captured the spirit of a destination.

Before you make that next purchase, read on for six simple steps to follow before you buy that painting, photograph, sculpture or other piece.

1. KNOW WHAT YOU WANT While finding a piece of art that speaks to you requires a little serendipity, consider your overall goals. “Decide if you want to look for a souvenir typical 32

of the area you are visiting, or a work of fine art,” advises Christel Dahlén, a former art consultant and now the director of international relations at the Chelsea Art Museum in New York. If you’re purchasing a relatively inexpensive memento, then your biggest concern will be getting it home.

But if you’re looking for a sound investment, or toward developing a collection that speaks to your aesthetic vision, do your research on the artists or the work you’re interested in before you leave home.

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

2. CONSULT WITH AN EXPERT “When you’re spending really serious money, have some really serious people advising you,” says avid New York collector Michael Mendelsohn, founder of Briddge Art Strategies, and artworld consultant. He suggests working with an impartial expert—a professional appraiser or a fellow collector—who can help you assess a piece based on high-resolution digital photos, which established galleries can provide. An appraiser can often also help confirm that the work is authentic and has a valid title of ownership.

Expert guidance is especially crucial if you’re in the market for antiquities.

“Buying antiquities overseas is very tricky,” says Dorit Straus, worldwide fine arts manager for the Chubb Group of Insurance Companies. “There’s the issue of authenticity—there are very good fakes out there. But the bigger concern is whether the items were illegally excavated. It’s a potential minefield,” she says, which has tripped up the Getty Museum in California and other institutions, as well as individual collectors.

3. COVER YOUR BASES As you would with any investment, protect yourself with insurance before you leave home. “It’s difficult to make arrangements for insurance while you’re traveling overseas,” Straus says.

First, check the fine print on your existing policies, whether you have a stand-alone policy specifically for art, or one attached to your homeowner’s insurance. Sometimes these policies include extensions, so you can acquire new pieces abroad and declare them after you return. If you’re not insured before you go, it’s still possible to get temporary coverage through a good shipping agent. Straus advises against it, as it’s typically more costly and often carries exemptions for fine art, but some policies may protect your sculpture, painting, photograph or

other work when it’s most vulnerable to damage: during transport back to your home country. Finally, check with your credit card company regarding protections they offer for items that you may want charge.

4. CHOOSE A TRUSTWORTHY SELLER The easiest and best way to ensure a smooth purchase is to buy from prominent, well-established galleries, or at major art fairs such as Switzerland’s Art Basel and Frieze, in London, where art dealers are vetted thoroughly. The fairs have a reputation to uphold, and you can be confident that the work will be authentic. (In the unlikely event that it’s not, you’ll also have recourse.) “A good gallery should do absolutely everything for you, from getting you a cup of tea when you walk in, to giving advice on lighting the work when it’s arrived at your house,” says William Noortman, managing director of

Noortman Master Paintings, a gallery based in Maastricht, home of one of the world’s most important fairs.

Dealers should be able to handle transportation, the customs process, and any importing problems, but if you are arranging shipping yourself, consult the International Convention of Exhibition and Fine Arts Transporters (www.icefat.org), an organization that can recommend 80 prescreened shippers.

5. GET A FAIR PRICE To judge whether the asking price is reasonable, research the figures for other works by the same artist from the same period. Be wary of offers that seem too good to be true. “Never buy something for US$5,000 that the dealer tells you is worth US$100,000,” advises Mendelsohn. Reputable sellers will price works according to market value, so such “discounts” are a red flag. “At a gallery or antiques dealer of good

standing, as a rule of thumb the biggest discount you can negotiate is about 10 to 15 percent,” says Dahlén, of the Chelsea Art Museum, or sellers may also be willing to offer a discount on shipping and handling charges.

6. FOLLOW THE RULES Keep in mind that many countries have laws to protect their cultural property, and that your home country might have specific restrictions on what art and antiquities can be imported. For instance, if you’re American, you can’t bring back that terra-cotta statue from Mali or colonial-period painting from Peru, unless you have a special export permit. Consulting a licensed customs broker can also help you steer clear of trouble. In general, original fine art created entirely by hand, including paintings and drawings, as well as antiques that are at least 100 years old, should not present any problems. ✚

Top Private Art Guides If you’re buying—or just browsing—and you don’t want to go it alone, these guides can give you the inside edge. By HILLARY GERONEMUS

I L L U S T R AT E D BY G U Y B I L L O U T

strategies | buying

PARIS Who Brigitte Vergnolle Paris Addict; 33-6/09-9409-21; parisaddict@orange.fr What You’ll See You’ve got to know more than a thing or two if concierges at luxury hotels across the city rely on you for the best private guides.

Such is the case with Vergnolle, who runs Paris Addict, a discreet company discovered only by word of mouth. Vergnolle and her team of guides, all of whom have degrees in history or art history, can arrange just about anything, from private meetings with art and antiques dealers to a behind-the-scenes tour of Versailles.

ROME Who Maria Cristina Paoluzzi 39-06/8535-8892; mariacristina.paoluzzi@ fastwebnet.it What You’ll See Don’t let her Ph.D. in art history throw you. A professor at the University of Chieti, and the go-to guide for visiting dignitaries (the elder George Bush and Mikhail Gorbachev among them), Paoluzzi can just as easily guide you through the top contemporary-art galleries and private studios as she can those specializing in antiquities.

Her favorite stops: Magazzini d’Arte Moderna, Galleria dell’Oca and Galleria il Ponte.

BUDAPEST Who Dianne C. Brown 36-209/549-941; dcbrown@ starkingnet.hu What You’ll See An art consultant to the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace and resident of the city since 1993, Brown knows the artists who give this particularly vibrant scene its unique energy. If you’re a fan of modern art, request a visit to the Art Factory, an industrial-style exhibition space for upand-coming artists, including sculptor Mamikon Yengibarian (whose work is also on view at the Four Seasons) and Márta Kucsora, an abstract painter.

BEIJING Who Angela Li Angela Li Art Consultancy; 852/3571-8200; www.alac.com.hk What You’ll See Though based in Hong Kong, Li has been tapped into the Beijing art scene for years. If you’re serious about acquiring contemporary Chinese art, you can count on Li—who serves as a consultant to corporations, hotels and private collectors—to guide you to the best up-andcoming stars, such as photographer Chen Jiagang and painter Huang Hancheng. Just interested in looking? Then drop by Li’s newly opened Hong Kong gallery, Contemporary by Angela Li (Ground floor, 90–92 Hollywood Rd., Central).

TOKYO Who Nicole Fall and Charles Spreckley Bespoke Tokyo; 81-80/50258711; www.bespoketokyo.jp What You’ll See Sign on with Fall and Spreckley, and you’ll be in the company of two plugged-in locals. The duo will guide you through what they dub the “Tokyo Labyrinth”—nameless streets and hidden stops otherwise impossible to find. Their favorite art experience: 101 Tokyo, a new contemporary-art show taking place in a converted school in Akihabara. You’ll get private viewings, along with a personalized “art safari” led by independent Tokyo-based gallery owners.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

.

C O M| A P R I L 2 0 0 8

33

Olympic countdown: Our guide to what’s hot in Beijing <(page 48)

Art House.

Our pick of the best galleries in Siem Reap (page 58) >

Tea for Two? Teahouses in Asia get a facelift <(page 54)

+

• Jakarta’s indie rock scene • Shop for vintage cameras in Manila • Go green at two new eco-lodges

(Insider) Photo credit by tktktk

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T : J O S E F P O L L E R O S S ; H U R R Y / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F G R E E N T- H O U S E ; A H M A D D E N Y S A L M A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E A R T S L O U N G E

Little Arabia: Dine on authentic Middle East fare in Bangkok <(page 44)

Where to GoWhat to EatWhere to StayWhat to Buy

FEB MROUNATRHY 2 0 0 7 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

000

insider

| newsflash TECH

BOOK

Entertainment on the Road Wherever you are in the world, these gadgets and services keep you plugged in to your favorite movies, music and more. BOOKS At roughly the size of a paperback, the Sony Portable Reader PRS-505 e-book (www.sonystyle.com; US$300) fits right into your carry-on and stores up to 160 books. MUSIC The 8.9-centimeter touch-screen display on the Apple iPod touch (www.apple.com; US$299), above, makes it easier than ever to flip through a music library. You can also download songs directly from the iTunes WiFi Music Store. MOVIES & TV A new service at Netflix (www.netflix. com) makes more than 6,000 flicks and TV shows available for online viewing. Films begin playing right after you’ve made your selection. The Slingbox Solo (www.slingbox.com; US$180) device connects to your cable, satellite box, or DVR and streams your favorite programs—live and recorded—onto your laptop.—W O O K K I M

—DA R R E L L H A RT M A N

A COOK’S TOUR OF CAMBODIA

FOOD

Culinary journeys are nothing new in Asia. But Wild Frontiers (www. wildfrontiers.co.uk), a U.K.-based adventure outfit founded by British travel writer Jonny Bealby, escorts gastronomically inclined travelers into hitherto unexplored territory: Cambodia. The 15-day tour, which this year runs from October 11 to October 25 (from £2,200 for twin share), stops at Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and the beach town of Kep, taking in local markets and eateries as well as famous sights such as Angkor Wat. If you’re imagining repasts of deep-fried tarantulas and barbecued rats (both considered delicacies in this poverty-stricken nation), think again. Participants get to sup on gourmet dinners prepared by top Khmer chefs, with a final bang-up meal at the Foreign Correspondents’ Club in the capital.

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T : D AV I E S + S TA R R ; C O U R T E S Y O F A P P L E ; C O U R T E S Y O F W I L D F R O N T I E R S

Passages to India India can be a dizzying place, but the new Love Travel Guides (www. longitudebooks.com; US$40) bring the country into focus.

In the handwoven silk pouch, you’ll find information that feels as if it’s been culled just for you by a local friend—from offthe-radar sari shops to yoga retreats. Bangalore, Mumbai and New Delhi editions are already on bookshelves, and six more locations in India are coming soon.

insider

| newsflash WHERE TO EAT THE REAL DEAL Head to these restaurants in Southeast Asia to get your genuine Kobe fix.

(T+L Tip: Singapore bans Kobe imports because of mad cow disease.)

Left: Wagyu beef cooked on a hot stone at Megu Midtown restaurant in New York. Above: Amapola in Bangkok.

What’s the Beef ?

TSUKIJI 3rd floor, Milky Way Building, 900 Pasay Rd., Makati, Manila; 63-2/843-4285 or 63-2/812-2913.

With the terms KOBE and WAGYU showing up on menus from Beijing to Bali, T+L figured it was time to take a closer look at Japan’s pampered bovines. Below, a cheat sheet to help you make sense of it all. PLUS: The best places to eat these cuts in Southeast Asia. By CHARLOTTE DRUCKMAN

AMAPOLA 72/1 Soi 51, Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok; 66-2/258-7077.

WAGYU A Japanese breed known for the abundant marbling of its flesh (must be the beer-and-rice diet the steers are fed).

KOBE A specific strain of Wagyu from Hyogo Prefecture, of which Kobe is the capital.

Ranchers up the ante on the royal-treatment diet with a regimen of deep-tissue massages. (Alert: A lot of restaurants try to pass Wagyu off as Kobe. Remember, real Kobe has to be from Japan.)

WASHU A broad category of crossbred American Angus and Wagyu cows, of varying quality. It’s often labeled Kobe, somewhat misleadingly, on American menus.

AUSTRALIAN WAGYU A top-quality strain of Wagyu, these cows are actually being exported (repatriated?) to Japan—and their beef sent as far away as Great Britain.

AMERICAN WAGYU Technically, a misnomer. So far, the United States Department of Agriculture has not certified any homegrown cow as being 100 percent Wagyu—but the price tag likely won’t reflect this. Let the beef-eater beware.

3R Shop F-G, 18 Jupiter St., North Point, Hong Kong; 852/2807-1386.

THE STEAK HOUSE Best known for its “One Million Rupiah” Burger. Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta, Jln. H.R. Rasuna Said, Jakarta; 62-21/252-3456.—J.C.

HALCYON HALONG Halong Bay is easily one of Asia’s most

CRUISE

38

majestic natural wonders: more than 1,000 jungle-covered limestone karsts set against the aquamarine waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. To explore the bay’s magnificent grottoes, climb aboard the Halong Jasmine (84-4/9842807; www.cruisehalong.com; from US$419 per person, twin share), the latest addition to the fleet of lavishly appointed wooden junks that ply Halong’s waters. A 55-meter wooden junk with four decks, it boasts 24 sublimely comfortable rooms, a library, a restaurant and even tai chi classes on the upper deck. Chi undoubtedly flows better in such spectacular surroundings.

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F A M A P O L A ; L A R S K LOV E ; CO U RT ESY O F H A LO N G JAS M I N E

TREND

| newsflash

LANNA LIFE Holiday homes are popular along Thailand’s coast, and they’re starting to catch on elsewhere in the country. Case in point: Azaya Villas (66-53/863-140; www. azayavillas.com) is Chiang Mai’s first luxury villa development. Located in the idyllic Mae Rim valley, Azaya comprises 12 houses that pair clean lines with soaring roofs inspired by Thai temples. The compound includes pools, tennis courts, a restaurant, a gym and a spa. With price tags of up to Bt45 million, mountain paradise doesn’t come cheap. But as tourists keep pouring in, investors could see rental returns of 13–20 percent, says Ian Hirsch, the developer.

PROPERT Y

SHOP

Home Sweet Home Concept stores might sound good on paper, but they often translate into willfully abstract spaces.

British men’s clothier Alfred Dunhill, however, has come up with a concept store where comfort reigns supreme. Situated in Tokyo’s exclusive Ginza district, Home of Alfred Dunhill (2-6-7, Ginza, Chuo-ku; 81-3/3562-1893; www.dunhill.com) revolves around the conceit that it’s a home-away-fromhome (albeit a well-appointed one). Downstairs, you’ll find the expected luxury goods for gents (vintage luggage from London antiques purveyor Bentley’s, limited-edition diamond cufflinks and such). Upstairs, there’s a barber, tailor, café and cocktail lounge, so you can fortify yourself with a martini while getting a suit made. Look out for a Home in Shanghai, opening this summer.

COMFORT FOOD TO GO

WEB

Long work hours plus hectic social calendars usually equal many nights of eating take-out straight from the carton. But if you’re in Singapore, you can now call Mother. That is, Mother (www. ilovemother.net), a new online personal grocery service that delivers fresh ingredients for recipes listed on the website. All the ingredients arrive at your doorstep washed and measured, with instructions (most of the recipes take less than 30 minutes). For true kitchen klutzes, Mother will even peel, chop, slice and dice everything. The service is the brainchild of Christine Lim, a former advertising executive. A few years ago, she cooked up the idea while fighting a bout with cancer. “When I was recovering, I spent a lot of time at home, and occasionally I would drag myself out for food. But there was only McDonald’s and KFC and I really wanted someone to deliver good, home-cooked meals to me,” says the 33-year-old. She’s already onto her next project: introducing healthy meals for children.

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F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F A L F R E D D U N H I L L ; C O U R T E S Y O F A Z AYA V I L L A S ; C O U R T E S Y O F C H R I S T I N E L I M

insider

insider

| newsflash

Loh Lik Peng

BANYAN IN SANYA Lending a touch of class to China’s resort island of Hainan, the Banyan Tree Sanya Resort and Spa HOTEL (Luhuitou Bay, 6 Luling Rd.; 86-898/8860-9988; www. banyantree.com; villas from US$1,550) is opening its doors this month. The property comprises 51 villas with private pools (reportedly the first resort of its kind in China), including two sprawling Presidential Villa complexes that can accommodate up to 50 people— perfect for celebrities, elder statesmen and others who travel with serious entourages.

Stayed tuned for more Banyan Tree openings in China in the next few years, including properties in Hangzhou, Lhasa, Beijing, Guilin and Shanghai.

T+L asks the owner of the Majestic Bar and New Majestic Hotel to divulge some of his favorite places in Singapore

LEISA TYLER

EAT “For evenings, Il Lido on Sentosa (Sentosa Golf

Beauty junkies take note: chances are your favorite fragrances are now available in travel-friendly, easy-to-pack forms. 1 Chanel Coco Mademoiselle—the fresh, floral and fruity scent—comes as a solid in a gold-rimmed compact. 2 Bond No. 9 Two fragrance options (the floral Chelsea Flowers and the richer Chinatown) accompany this Swarovski crystal–adorned purse-size bottle.

3 Estée Lauder A gold case decorated with semiprecious stones holds the Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia solid perfume.

4 Marc Jacobs A padded leather pouch keeps the Marc Jacobs 1 Woman’s gardenia-infused purse spray well-protected. 5 Crazylibellule and the 5 Poppies The vanilla, tangerine and peach–infused Pom d’Amour solid perfume twists in and out like a lipstick.—E L I Z A B E T H

BEAUTY

2

WOODSON 3

4

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T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B A N YA N T R E E H O T E L S A N D R E S O R T S . B O T T O M : D AV I E S + S TA R R

TRAVEL-FRIENDLY PERFUMES

Club; 65/68661977; www.il-lido.com) is the perfect spot for sunset drinks and a risotto while watching the ships pass by. Singapore is famous for its hawker stalls. It seems every person in the city has his or her own all-time favorite. For me, nothing can beat the Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice (Stall number 10, Maxwell Food Centre, Chinatown). It’s legendary and always busy—go weekends to avoid long queues.”

PLAY “St. James Power House (Sentosa Gateway Ave.; 65/62707676; www.stjamespowerstation.com) offers multiple venues with a variety of different beats. You can kick back with world music or jazz at Movida, or Cantonese karaoke at Dragonfly, which always guarantees a great laugh. Friday and Saturday nights are great with crowds spilling out onto the pavement and a great buzz.”

DON’T MISS “Rambling through the secondhand and collectibles shops in Chinatown and Little India. The best is CK Collections (586 Serangoon Rd.). The shop is total chaos, packed from floor to ceiling, filled with the most amazing collection of old barber’s chairs, teakwood furniture and vintage fans that run on anything from water to kerosene. People tend to think Singapore is very sterile. These shops are a great contrast.”—L E I S A T Y L E R

FIVEMINUTE EXPERT

insider

| newsflash

Loh Lik Peng

BANYAN IN SANYA Lending a touch of class to China’s resort island of Hainan, the Banyan Tree Sanya Resort and Spa HOTEL (Luhuitou Bay, 6 Luling Rd.; 86-898/8860-9988; www. banyantree.com; villas from US$1,550) is opening its doors this month. The property comprises 51 villas with private pools (reportedly the first resort of its kind in China), including two sprawling Presidential Villa complexes that can accommodate up to 50 people— perfect for celebrities, elder statesmen and others who travel with serious entourages.

Stayed tuned for more Banyan Tree openings in China in the next few years, including properties in Hangzhou, Lhasa, Beijing, Guilin and Shanghai.

T+L asks the owner of the Majestic Bar and New Majestic Hotel to divulge some of his favorite places in Singapore

LEISA TYLER

EAT “For evenings, Il Lido on Sentosa (Sentosa Golf

Beauty junkies take note: chances are your favorite fragrances are now available in travel-friendly, easy-to-pack forms. 1 Chanel Coco Mademoiselle—the fresh, floral and fruity scent—comes as a solid in a gold-rimmed compact. 2 Bond No. 9 Two fragrance options (the floral Chelsea Flowers and the richer Chinatown) accompany this Swarovski crystal–adorned purse-size bottle.

3 Estée Lauder A gold case decorated with semiprecious stones holds the Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia solid perfume.

4 Marc Jacobs A padded leather pouch keeps the Marc Jacobs 1 Woman’s gardenia-infused purse spray well-protected. 5 Crazylibellule and the 5 Poppies The vanilla, tangerine and peach–infused Pom d’Amour solid perfume twists in and out like a lipstick.—E L I Z A B E T H

BEAUTY

2

WOODSON 3

4

42

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B A N YA N T R E E H O T E L S A N D R E S O R T S . B O T T O M : D AV I E S + S TA R R

TRAVEL-FRIENDLY PERFUMES

Club; 65/68661977; www.il-lido.com) is the perfect spot for sunset drinks and a risotto while watching the ships pass by. Singapore is famous for its hawker stalls. It seems every person in the city has his or her own all-time favorite. For me, nothing can beat the Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice (Stall number 10, Maxwell Food Centre, Chinatown). It’s legendary and always busy—go weekends to avoid long queues.”

PLAY “St. James Power House (Sentosa Gateway Ave.; 65/62707676; www.stjamespowerstation.com) offers multiple venues with a variety of different beats. You can kick back with world music or jazz at Movida, or Cantonese karaoke at Dragonfly, which always guarantees a great laugh. Friday and Saturday nights are great with crowds spilling out onto the pavement and a great buzz.”

DON’T MISS “Rambling through the secondhand and collectibles shops in Chinatown and Little India. The best is CK Collections (586 Serangoon Rd.). The shop is total chaos, packed from floor to ceiling, filled with the most amazing collection of old barber’s chairs, teakwood furniture and vintage fans that run on anything from water to kerosene. People tend to think Singapore is very sterile. These shops are a great contrast.”—L E I S A T Y L E R

FIVEMINUTE EXPERT

insider | eat

Middle East Feast Below: A vendor in Bangkok’s Middle Eastern neighborhood. Right: Hummus and flat bread at Shahrazad restaurant.

THAILAND

Soi Arabia. Tired of Thai food? Then dive into this slice of the Middle East in the heart of Bangkok. By PAUL EHRLICH

I

F YOU’VE SCORCHED your taste buds on too much tom yum, head down to Soi 3/1 along central Bangkok’s main thoroughfare of Sukhumvit Road. Just a few meters away from the Nana SkyTrain station, this area is a slice of Cairo, crammed with perfume shops, travel agents and some of the best Middle Eastern restaurants east of the Persian Gulf.

But don’t come expecting refinement;

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most of the restaurants are small and simple, and they don’t take reservations. In accordance with Islam, they also don’t serve alcohol and the Muslim call to prayer blares out of loudspeakers five times a day.

But these restaurants more than make up for their lack of finesse with their ambience and food. The best time to go is dinner, when the neighborhood becomes a bustling Photographed by JOSEF POLLEROSS

insider | eat 1,001 Meals Clockwise from left: The street scene in Bangkok’s Arab quarter; the grilled offerings at Shahrazad restaurant; after-dinner tea and coffee.

bazaar, with Arabic men clad in white dishdashas and veiled women jostling along the street with Thais and Africans. Above all, this is the place to feast on succulent kebabs and lemonladen tabouleh. Here are some of our favorite spots.

SHAHRAZAD

This 25-year-old establishment’s dependable Egyptian food and friendly, efficient staff have earned it the ardent loyalty of visitors and residents alike.

OUR PICKS For the mains, try the barbecued lamb chops, tender leg of lamb, the grilled pigeon stuffed with rice, and any of the grilled fish and the shish kebab combos. The best accompaniments are the refreshing yoghurt cucumber salad and the lightwhipped hummus served with lashings of olive oil. 6/8 Soi 3/1, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/251-3666.

NEFERTITI

Exuding atmosphere, this spot really does transport its clientele straight to Cairo. Regulars pack the tables outside, watching Arabic-language movies that are always playing on the giant flatscreen TV. Inside, the dining room is filled with embroidered tablecloths, a mosaic fountain, hanging lamps and chandeliers—all imported from Egypt.

OUR PICKS First-timers to Arab cuisine should start with the appetizer platter of Middle Eastern comfort food: hummus, baba ghanoush, falafel, tabouleh and feta cheese. Also try the fresh chopped Lebanese salad, the wellseasoned minced beef or chicken, the grilled lamb chops, and the rice with eggplant and soft chunks of lamb. After dinner try a cup of strong Turkish coffee and enjoy the street life. 4/8 Soi 3/1, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/655-3043.

SULTAN

Ignore the unappealing hamburgers and submarine sandwiches sitting in the glass case in the front (“For some tourists,” admits owner Mohmaad Talukeer). This relative newcomer 46

specializes in authentic, delicious Lebanese, Yemeni and Egyptian dishes.

OUR PICKS The tabouleh and thick, creamy hummus (our favorite) are a must. Follow those dishes up with the restaurant’s speciality, mandi, a Yemeni lamb dish that’s presented on a bed of fluffy basmati rice, covered with nuts and served with a thick stock and lamb’s liver. The fiercely guarded recipe involves secret spices, and the preparation is so time-consuming (four hours, to be exact) that it’s made early in the morning. We also enjoyed the whole grilled chicken and the chicken and lamb kebabs served with garlicky mustard that adds a delicious bite. 75/8 Soi 3/1, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/252-7960.

AL-IRAQI RESTAURANT

The only restaurant serving Iraqi cuisine in the neighborhood, this unassuming 20-year-old spot, patronized by visiting Iraqis and Iranians, is often unjustly overlooked.

OUR PICKS Among the best dishes are the grilled fish, the spicy leg of lamb, and the ladyfingers and eggplant served in a traditional broth. It’s also worth sampling the kabsa, a Persian Gulf staple comprised of slow-cooked or barbecued mutton, chicken or pigeon that’s blanketed in a variety of spices, nuts and onions. 8/17–18 Soi 3/1, Sukhumvit Rd.; 66-2/655-5357. ✚

A PRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

MIDDLE EASTERN CLASSICS If this is your first time trying Middle Eastern cuisine, start with these dishes, many of which date back to Biblical times.

■ FALAFEL Deep-fried balls of seasoned chickpeas (garbanzo beans) served with a salad of chopped lettuce and tomato, and sesame tahini sauce.

■ BABA GHANOUSH A spread made of roasted or grilled eggplant, garlic and tahini.

■ HUMMUS A spread made of chickpeas (hummus means chickpeas in Arabic) blended with garlic, tahini and lemon juice. Often served with olive oil, cumin and sumac on top.

■ TABOULEH A salad of cracked wheat, parsley, mint, garlic, tomatoes, green onions, olive oil and lemon juice that is served cold.

■ SAMBUSAK A small fried or baked pastry that is usually triangle or half-moon shaped.

Traditional fillings include minced lamb with onions or feta cheese.

■ KIBBEH Especially popular in Lebanon, this dish consists of fried egg-shaped balls of lamb or beef encased in bulgar wheat.

insider | when

you’re in...

Beijing. Headed to the 2008 Summer

TOP SIGHTS There are 31 sports venues scattered throughout Beijing, but the Olympic Green (www.beijing2008.com) will be the epicenter of the Games (1). It’s the site of the Herzog & de Meuron–designed “Bird’s Nest” National Stadium; the gymnastics and aquatics competitions (at the showcase “Water Cube”); and Olympic Village, where more than 10,000 Olympians will be based. • The central Houhai Lake is lined with lively waterfront bars and cafés (2). This summer, expect the promenade to be fi lled with an international parade of sports fans—Australian swimming fans, Argentine football addicts and American basketball enthusiasts. • Still the heart of Beijing—indeed, of China itself—the recently restored Forbidden

City and Tiananmen Square now abut the National Centre for the Performing Arts (4 Shi Beihutong; 86-10/66064705), a colossal monument to theater, opera and classical music, which was unveiled last fall, just in time to impress the summer 2008 crowds (3). • Long before the “Bird’s Nest” came along, the 273-hectare Temple of Heaven (Tiantan Donglu; 86-10/6702-8866) was the city’s ceremonial center (4). For a respite from the Olympic crowds—and for extra good fortune, according to Chinese numerology—arrive at 8 P.M. on 08/08/08. The opening ceremonies begin at this auspicious moment. • China’s contemporary art

CHINA

Beijing Reborn From left: Beijing’s National Centre for the Performing Arts; the National Stadium (before its opening); Wang Guangyi’s Part 1 of Concretionary Northern Polar Region (1995).

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scene is almost as competitive as the Games themselves. Experience it all in the Dashanzi Art District (4 Jiuxianqiao Lu; 86-10/8456-2421; www. chinesecontemporary.com)—also known as Factory 798—a Bauhaus-style complex. (5).

EAT Don’t leave Beijing without an

FROM LEFT: SHERMAN YIP / DREAMSTIME.COM; HANHANPEGGY / D R E A M ST I M E .CO M ; CO U RT ESY O F U L L E N S C E N T E R FO R CO N T E M P O RA RY A RT F R O M R I G H T : R O B E R T VA N B E E T S / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; H U R R Y / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M

Olympics? We’ve got the lowdown on the city’s can’t-miss sites, shops, restaurants, and tour guides—it’s everything you need

authentic Peking duck experience.

Locals swear by Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant (3 Tuanjiehu Beikou; 8610/6582-4003; dinner for two US$40), conveniently located just a 10-minute walk from the Chaoyang Park Beach volleyball stadium. • Come evening, treat yourself to an over-the-top dinner at the Philippe Starck–designed LAN (4th floor, LG Twin Towers B12, Jianguomenwai Dajie; 86-10/5109-6012; dinner for two US$100), full of Baroque accents and crowd-pleasing dishes (oysters in spicy sauce; stir-fried lobster). • A global array of restaurants in the mega retail, entertainment and nightlife complex Legation Quarter (23 Qianmen Dong Dajie; 86-10/6522-4848; www.legationquarter.com) is opening in time for the Games. Among the first: Maison Boulud, by New York chef Daniel Boulud, which is scheduled to begin serving in May.

SHOP For a spectacle of a different kind, elbow your way through the antiques

stalls of the labyrinthine Panjiayuan Flea Market ( just off the Third Ring Rd. at Panjiayuan Lu), open only on weekends.

• In-the-know shoppers will head to Ruifu Xiang (5 Dazhalan Jie; 8610/6303-5313), among the centuriesold stores near Tiananmen Square, for a bespoke qipao (the traditional fulllength dress) in rich silk or brocade.

Who knows what sartorially minded athletes you might find among the bolts of fabric? • Not everyone can perform like an Olympian—but now you can dress like one. Adidas (19 San Li Tun Lu; shopadidas.com) has created footwear that will be worn in competitions from sprinting to tae kwon do, and it’s all for sale at the new Beijing flagship store.

SLEEP Haven’t reserved a hotel room or bought tickets to the Games yet? Don’t waste another second. Beijing has an abundance of new hotels, but most are already booked solid. Your best bet is a travel company that has secured blocks

of rooms. Otherwise, try contacting some of the city’s boutique hotels. Our favorites include Red Capital Residence (9 Dongsi Liutiao; 8610/8401-8886; www.redcapitalclub.com. cn) and Hotel Côté Cour S.L. (70 Yanyue Hutong; 86-10/6512-8020; www. hotelcotecoursl.com)—both in courtyard houses. Look out for The Opposite House (11 San Li Tun Lu; 86-10/64176688; www.theoppositehouse.com), a new design hotel opening in July.

EXPERT GUIDE More than half a million visitors are expected to descend on Beijing for the Games, but that doesn’t mean you have to fight the masses.

• Australian expats Mark Thirlwall and Stacey Shine arrange customized tours of everything from historic sites to hard-to-find Olympic sports facilities through the one-stop cultural immersion center The Hutong (8610/8915-3613; www.the-hutong.com; tours from US$30 per person). • Enlist Abercrombie & Kent »

Ancient History From left: Schoolgirls paying a visit to the Forbidden City in the heart of Beijing; the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests at the 15th-century Temple of Heaven complex.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

.

C O M| A P R I L 2 0 0 8

49

insider | when

you’re in...

Beijing. Headed to the 2008 Summer

TOP SIGHTS There are 31 sports venues scattered throughout Beijing, but the Olympic Green (www.beijing2008.com) will be the epicenter of the Games (1). It’s the site of the Herzog & de Meuron–designed “Bird’s Nest” National Stadium; the gymnastics and aquatics competitions (at the showcase “Water Cube”); and Olympic Village, where more than 10,000 Olympians will be based. • The central Houhai Lake is lined with lively waterfront bars and cafés (2). This summer, expect the promenade to be fi lled with an international parade of sports fans—Australian swimming fans, Argentine football addicts and American basketball enthusiasts. • Still the heart of Beijing—indeed, of China itself—the recently restored Forbidden

City and Tiananmen Square now abut the National Centre for the Performing Arts (4 Shi Beihutong; 86-10/66064705), a colossal monument to theater, opera and classical music, which was unveiled last fall, just in time to impress the summer 2008 crowds (3). • Long before the “Bird’s Nest” came along, the 273-hectare Temple of Heaven (Tiantan Donglu; 86-10/6702-8866) was the city’s ceremonial center (4). For a respite from the Olympic crowds—and for extra good fortune, according to Chinese numerology—arrive at 8 P.M. on 08/08/08. The opening ceremonies begin at this auspicious moment. • China’s contemporary art

CHINA

Beijing Reborn From left: Beijing’s National Centre for the Performing Arts; the National Stadium (before its opening); Wang Guangyi’s Part 1 of Concretionary Northern Polar Region (1995).

48

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scene is almost as competitive as the Games themselves. Experience it all in the Dashanzi Art District (4 Jiuxianqiao Lu; 86-10/8456-2421; www. chinesecontemporary.com)—also known as Factory 798—a Bauhaus-style complex. (5).

EAT Don’t leave Beijing without an

FROM LEFT: SHERMAN YIP / DREAMSTIME.COM; HANHANPEGGY / D R E A M ST I M E .CO M ; CO U RT ESY O F U L L E N S C E N T E R FO R CO N T E M P O RA RY A RT F R O M R I G H T : R O B E R T VA N B E E T S / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; H U R R Y / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M

Olympics? We’ve got the lowdown on the city’s can’t-miss sites, shops, restaurants, and tour guides—it’s everything you need

authentic Peking duck experience.

Locals swear by Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant (3 Tuanjiehu Beikou; 8610/6582-4003; dinner for two US$40), conveniently located just a 10-minute walk from the Chaoyang Park Beach volleyball stadium. • Come evening, treat yourself to an over-the-top dinner at the Philippe Starck–designed LAN (4th floor, LG Twin Towers B12, Jianguomenwai Dajie; 86-10/5109-6012; dinner for two US$100), full of Baroque accents and crowd-pleasing dishes (oysters in spicy sauce; stir-fried lobster). • A global array of restaurants in the mega retail, entertainment and nightlife complex Legation Quarter (23 Qianmen Dong Dajie; 86-10/6522-4848; www.legationquarter.com) is opening in time for the Games. Among the first: Maison Boulud, by New York chef Daniel Boulud, which is scheduled to begin serving in May.

SHOP For a spectacle of a different kind, elbow your way through the antiques

stalls of the labyrinthine Panjiayuan Flea Market ( just off the Third Ring Rd. at Panjiayuan Lu), open only on weekends.

• In-the-know shoppers will head to Ruifu Xiang (5 Dazhalan Jie; 8610/6303-5313), among the centuriesold stores near Tiananmen Square, for a bespoke qipao (the traditional fulllength dress) in rich silk or brocade.

Who knows what sartorially minded athletes you might find among the bolts of fabric? • Not everyone can perform like an Olympian—but now you can dress like one. Adidas (19 San Li Tun Lu; shopadidas.com) has created footwear that will be worn in competitions from sprinting to tae kwon do, and it’s all for sale at the new Beijing flagship store.

SLEEP Haven’t reserved a hotel room or bought tickets to the Games yet? Don’t waste another second. Beijing has an abundance of new hotels, but most are already booked solid. Your best bet is a travel company that has secured blocks

of rooms. Otherwise, try contacting some of the city’s boutique hotels. Our favorites include Red Capital Residence (9 Dongsi Liutiao; 8610/8401-8886; www.redcapitalclub.com. cn) and Hotel Côté Cour S.L. (70 Yanyue Hutong; 86-10/6512-8020; www. hotelcotecoursl.com)—both in courtyard houses. Look out for The Opposite House (11 San Li Tun Lu; 86-10/64176688; www.theoppositehouse.com), a new design hotel opening in July.

EXPERT GUIDE More than half a million visitors are expected to descend on Beijing for the Games, but that doesn’t mean you have to fight the masses.

• Australian expats Mark Thirlwall and Stacey Shine arrange customized tours of everything from historic sites to hard-to-find Olympic sports facilities through the one-stop cultural immersion center The Hutong (8610/8915-3613; www.the-hutong.com; tours from US$30 per person). • Enlist Abercrombie & Kent »

Ancient History From left: Schoolgirls paying a visit to the Forbidden City in the heart of Beijing; the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests at the 15th-century Temple of Heaven complex.

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(1-800/554-7094; www.abercrombiekent. com; 13-day all-inclusive packages from US$6,415 per person) for full- and halfday excursions to the Forbidden City or a behind-the-scenes look at the “Bird’s Nest” Stadium. • To see what life was like before the Games arrived, head to the Beijing Cultural Heritage Protection Center (86-10/6403-4932; www.bjchp.org; tours from US$14 per person), which offers educational trips through the city’s fast-disappearing hutong neighborhoods.

GETTING AROUND Beijing is working to reduce its notorious traffic for the Games, and as of this spring, there was talk of dedicating lanes to Olympic shuttle buses. Whatever the case, taxis are plentiful and inexpensive, and the subway and bus networks are

extensive. See the official Olympics website (www.beijing2008.com) for updates, city maps, schedules and more.—A R I C C H E N

MUST-SEE ART The much-anticipated opening last November of the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA) (798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu; 86-10/64386675; ucca.org.cn), in Dashanzi Art District, marks the beginning of a new era in China. It arrives at a time when the work of a generation of artists including Zhang Huan, Cai Guoqiang and Zhang Xiaogang commands record prices at international auctions.

Yet the UCCA, founded by retired Belgian businessman Guy Ullens and his wife Myriam, is a nonprofit operation with an emphasis on exhibitions and cultural programming,

including fi lm and music. With a collection of more than 1,500 works, the center represents the largest museum devoted to Chinese contemporary art by both established and emerging artists (plans are afoot to build another museum in Songzhuang, a town outside of Beijing where many artists live). Housed in a nearly 8,000-square-meter building, the space is set among the galleries and studios in Factory 798.

Designed by French architect JeanMichel Wilmotte and Shanghai-based Ma Qingyun, the UCCA features an automated system that uses GPS technology to maximize natural light and has two main naves for painting, sculpture and video; an auditorium; a museum shop and restaurant. It makes room for new perspectives on Chinese art. —S H A RO N L E E C E ✚

EXHIBITIONS ON NOW AT UCCA “House of Oracles: A Huang Yong Ping Retrospective” Through June 1.

Inside Beijing’s Ullens Center for Contemporary Art.

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CO U RT ESY O F U L L E N S C E N T E R FO R CO N T E M P O RA RY A RT

“Stray Alchemists” New and specially commissioned works — ranging from drawings to performance art —

by Chinese as well as international artists. Through July.

insider | drink

Teahouse Revival. Looking for an antidote to

■ HONG KONG

■ BANGKOK

■ TAIPEI

This airy, all-white eatery is the brainchild of musician-artist-entrepreneur Zhang Jinjie. Often called China’s first celebrity chef, Zhang launched Green T-House in Beijing in 1997. Doubling as an art gallery, the Hong Kong outlet, which opened in January, features a long communal table and a ceiling bedecked with delicate white branches. Make sure to accompany your cha with some of the culinary offerings. Helming the kitchen is chef Alan Yu, who Zhang plucked from 66, JeanGeorge Vongerichten’s haute Chinese restaurant in New York.

We recommend his divinely decadent dumplings stuffed with foie gras. 208, The Arcade, 100 Cyberport Rd.; 852/2989-6036; www.green-t-house.com; eight-course tasting menu HK$980.

The China House

An extensive renovation more than a year ago has transformed the interiors of this Bangkok mainstay into a seductive homage to 1930’s Shanghai—but with contemporary touches. In the restaurant’s heart lies a cloistered sitting room that houses the tea apothecary. It’s a sight that would set a tea aficionado’s heart racing: 35 canisters bearing blends and pure leaves from Mariage Frères, France’s oldest purveyor of fine teas. Don’t settle for familiar brews such as Earl Gray and Pu-er. Instead, try the Aiguilles d’Argent Silver Needles—the rare and costly yinzhen white tea from China’s Fuijian province that produces a delicately complex liquor. The Oriental Bangkok; 48 Oriental Ave.; 66-2/659-9000; tea with dim sum for two Bt1,625.

smith&hsu

Green T-House

T+L TIP Don’t obsess over the do’s and don’ts of tea rituals. Drinking tea Chinese-style is a relaxed experience. Just make sure to empty the teapot after each infusion to avoid bitterness. And take a moment to smell your cup once you’ve drained it, especially after the first infusion, to appreciate the aroma.

Many teahouses here cleave closely to classical décor.

But there’s been a groundswell of more modern approaches lately— as with this sleek space. Unveiled in May 2007, smith&hsu unites Chinese and British tea traditions: William Morris–like prints grace the packages for the in-house teas, while the menu’s 22 tea varieties include British stalwarts such as English Breakfast. The East-West theme also plays out in the dining room, which is furnished with Hans Wegner’s Wishbone chairs (inspired by Ming dynasty design).

We watched a young boy polish off a plate of scones, washing them down with Taiwan’s famed bai hao oolong tea. Now that’s fusion we approve of. No. 33, Section 5, Zhong Xiao East Rd.; 8862/2747-4857; www.smithandhsu. com; tea with scones for two NT$365.

Tea for Two From left: The cloudy flower blend at Green T-House, in Hong Kong; the intimate inner chamber of Bangkok’s The China House, which also serves as a tea room; the minimalist dining room of smith&hsu, a modern tea shop in Taipei.

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F R O M L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F G R E E N T- H O U S E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E O R I E N T A L B A N G K O K ; C O U R T E S Y O F S M I T H & H S U

Starbucks’ global ubiquity? These three establishments give ancient tea traditions a new twist. By JENNIFER CHEN

insider

| bring it back

F

OR DECADES, photography hobbyists have navigated the crowded bazaars and teeming sidewalks of Manila’s Quiapo district to prowl the vintage secondhand camera shops on Hidalgo Street. There, one regularly finds classic Nikons, Leicas and other vintage manual cameras at a fraction of their usual cost, waiting to capture that decisive moment (after a bit of tweaking and cleaning, of course). True, you can also buy new cameras at these shops, but where’s the romance in that? Besides, you might stumble on a real rarity. Back in the 1980’s, Filipino film director Uro de la Cruz bought a secondhand Nikon on Hidalgo Street for a little over P1,000 (around US$23 according to today’s exchange rate).

The letters “OJ” were engraved on the camera—a detail he’d always wondered about. Recently, while strolling in Quiapo with his camera, he was approached by an old collector from Hong Kong who asked to see the Nikon. The collector explained that “OJ” meant Occupied Japan, and that only a few hundred of those Nikons were produced in that period after World War II. He then offered to buy the camera for a thousand times what de la Cruz had originally paid for it. Not surprisingly, de la Cruz declined the offer, though he did find himself poring over the other vintage cameras he’d acquired from Hidalgo Street over the years. ✚

PHILIPPINES

Film Stars. Digital cameras might dominate the market, but on Hidalgo Street in the Quiapo district of Manila, old-school models still rule. By JESSICA ZAFRA

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Photographed by SITTIPUN CHAITERDSIRI. Styled by ATINAN NITISUNTHONKUL

insider | the

arts New Wave Art Clockwise from left: Photographs at McDermott Gallery FCC; an abstract installation at The Arts Lounge; a painting by Sao Srey Mao at The Arthouse.

Southeast Asia’s New Art Capital.

CAMBODIA

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LREADY THE GATEWAY

to the temples of Angkor, the quaint Cambodian town of Siem Reap is fast evolving into one of Southeast Asia’s top art enclaves.

Since its debut three years ago, the Angkor Photography Festival, an annual year-end event, has become the region’s premium photo showcase. With the success of the festival—which reels in some of the world’s top photojournalists—the local art scene, too, has been attracting notice. Eager to take advantage

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of this newfound attention, galleries have joined together to promote Cambodian art and artists. Last year, they began producing ArtVenues, a brochure that lists the town’s top galleries and details self-guided art walks.

“We wanted to build on the excitement of the photo festival in promoting the wide spectrum of arts in Siem Reap,” says Nicholas Downing, the general manager of Hotel de la Paix, which stages regularly changing exhibits in its own The Arts Lounge (Sivutha Blvd.; 855-63/966-000; www.

hoteldelapaixangkor.com). Many are provocative, like the recent show, “Lines & Lost Lines,” which included performance pieces and visual art from Kong Vollak, an emerging Khmer artist. One installation featured ice blocks hung from the ceiling. They later melted and dripped into a pool designed to be flooded in the manner of Angkor’s ponds.

Guests were invited to kick off their shoes and splash around.

“Some exhibits are very polarizing, very controversial,” Downing concedes. “But that’s

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E L I N K W AY G A L L E R Y ( 2 )

Contemporary art at McDermott Gallery FCC. Top: A collection of Buddha images at The Linkway Gallery.

C LO C KW I S E F RO M L E F T: CO U RT ESY O F M C D E R M OT T GA L L E RY FCC ; CO U RT ESY O F T H E A RTS LO U N G E ; CO U RT ESY O F T H E A RT H O U S E

Move over Ubud and Hanoi—Siem Reap is surfacing as the region’s latest magnet for exciting art. By RON GLUCKMAN

the whole point of art. To get people talking, thinking. This scene in Siem Reap is really sophisticated, with lots of artists wanting to ride the wave of something special. Siem Reap is really taking off.”

THE ARTHOUSE This space features the sculptures and photos of longtime local resident Sasha Constable, a founder of the Peace Art Project, a sculpture project focused on turning weapons into art.

Constable—who is a descendant of the 19th-century British landscape painter John Constable—also serves as the curator, advancing the work of up-and-coming Cambodian artists like Svay Ken, Leang Seckon, Srey Bandol and Tor Vutha. Old Market Area (above The Warehouse); 855-12/699-249; www.thearthousesiemreap.com.

THE LINKWAY GALLERY Housed in the elegant, historic Raffles Grand Hotel, this outdoor space specializes in Angkor-era statues and art. Indeed the entire hotel serves as an art gallery, with around 500 pieces scattered throughout its premises. Raffles

Grand Hotel d’Angkor, 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle; 855-63/963-888; www.siemreap.raffles.com.

MCDERMOTT GALLERY FCC No individual has done more to put Siem Reap on the art world map than John McDermott, an American photographer whose famous pictures of the Angkor temples, using infrared film to produce evocative, antique-looking photos, are the only work by a foreigner exhibited in Cambodia’s National Museum. This gallery —his first of three—is devoted to his Angkor photographs from the 1990’s. McDermott has recently added a second fine-art photography exhibition space in The Passage (The Passage, Old Market; 855-92/668-181; www.mcdermottgallery.com), a cobbled lane bursting with new galleries, cafés and boutiques.

FCC Complex, Pokambor Ave.; 855-12/274-274.

RED GALLERY McDermott’s latest venture is this small, stylish gallery at FCC Complex. The red walls and porthole windows might allude to Old Shanghai, but the wares are

paintings, photos and sculptures from local and regional artists, including Cambodian photographer Mak Remissa’s vividly colored, abstract prints of fish, bronze sculptures by Sasha Constable and images of Cambodia on diminutive silver gelatin prints by Czech photographer Jaroslav Poncar.

FCC Complex, Pokambor Ave.; 85512/615-695. ✚ T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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arts New Wave Art Clockwise from left: Photographs at McDermott Gallery FCC; an abstract installation at The Arts Lounge; a painting by Sao Srey Mao at The Arthouse.

Southeast Asia’s New Art Capital.

CAMBODIA

58

APRI L

A

LREADY THE GATEWAY

to the temples of Angkor, the quaint Cambodian town of Siem Reap is fast evolving into one of Southeast Asia’s top art enclaves.

Since its debut three years ago, the Angkor Photography Festival, an annual year-end event, has become the region’s premium photo showcase. With the success of the festival—which reels in some of the world’s top photojournalists—the local art scene, too, has been attracting notice. Eager to take advantage

2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

of this newfound attention, galleries have joined together to promote Cambodian art and artists. Last year, they began producing ArtVenues, a brochure that lists the town’s top galleries and details self-guided art walks.

“We wanted to build on the excitement of the photo festival in promoting the wide spectrum of arts in Siem Reap,” says Nicholas Downing, the general manager of Hotel de la Paix, which stages regularly changing exhibits in its own The Arts Lounge (Sivutha Blvd.; 855-63/966-000; www.

hoteldelapaixangkor.com). Many are provocative, like the recent show, “Lines & Lost Lines,” which included performance pieces and visual art from Kong Vollak, an emerging Khmer artist. One installation featured ice blocks hung from the ceiling. They later melted and dripped into a pool designed to be flooded in the manner of Angkor’s ponds.

Guests were invited to kick off their shoes and splash around.

“Some exhibits are very polarizing, very controversial,” Downing concedes. “But that’s

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E L I N K W AY G A L L E R Y ( 2 )

Contemporary art at McDermott Gallery FCC. Top: A collection of Buddha images at The Linkway Gallery.

C LO C KW I S E F RO M L E F T: CO U RT ESY O F M C D E R M OT T GA L L E RY FCC ; CO U RT ESY O F T H E A RTS LO U N G E ; CO U RT ESY O F T H E A RT H O U S E

Move over Ubud and Hanoi—Siem Reap is surfacing as the region’s latest magnet for exciting art. By RON GLUCKMAN

the whole point of art. To get people talking, thinking. This scene in Siem Reap is really sophisticated, with lots of artists wanting to ride the wave of something special. Siem Reap is really taking off.”

THE ARTHOUSE This space features the sculptures and photos of longtime local resident Sasha Constable, a founder of the Peace Art Project, a sculpture project focused on turning weapons into art.

Constable—who is a descendant of the 19th-century British landscape painter John Constable—also serves as the curator, advancing the work of up-and-coming Cambodian artists like Svay Ken, Leang Seckon, Srey Bandol and Tor Vutha. Old Market Area (above The Warehouse); 855-12/699-249; www.thearthousesiemreap.com.

THE LINKWAY GALLERY Housed in the elegant, historic Raffles Grand Hotel, this outdoor space specializes in Angkor-era statues and art. Indeed the entire hotel serves as an art gallery, with around 500 pieces scattered throughout its premises. Raffles

Grand Hotel d’Angkor, 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle; 855-63/963-888; www.siemreap.raffles.com.

MCDERMOTT GALLERY FCC No individual has done more to put Siem Reap on the art world map than John McDermott, an American photographer whose famous pictures of the Angkor temples, using infrared film to produce evocative, antique-looking photos, are the only work by a foreigner exhibited in Cambodia’s National Museum. This gallery —his first of three—is devoted to his Angkor photographs from the 1990’s. McDermott has recently added a second fine-art photography exhibition space in The Passage (The Passage, Old Market; 855-92/668-181; www.mcdermottgallery.com), a cobbled lane bursting with new galleries, cafés and boutiques.

FCC Complex, Pokambor Ave.; 855-12/274-274.

RED GALLERY McDermott’s latest venture is this small, stylish gallery at FCC Complex. The red walls and porthole windows might allude to Old Shanghai, but the wares are

paintings, photos and sculptures from local and regional artists, including Cambodian photographer Mak Remissa’s vividly colored, abstract prints of fish, bronze sculptures by Sasha Constable and images of Cambodia on diminutive silver gelatin prints by Czech photographer Jaroslav Poncar.

FCC Complex, Pokambor Ave.; 85512/615-695. ✚ T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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out

isn’t easy in a town where record stores still file Catherine Wheel under “female artist.” Yet Joseph and Anindita Saryuf—the husband-and-wife duo known as Santamonica— have managed to create a lifestyle that wouldn’t be out of place in Brooklyn. Hipsterdom does, however, require ingenuity here. Joseph and Anindita, better known as Iyub and Dita, may sport the regulation skinny pants and asymmetrical haircuts; but putting together that look entails hours trawling thrift stores. Gigs, meanwhile, are staged in parking lots and other impromptu venues. To find this scene, you definitely need an inside track. So T+L caught up with these electronic wizards for an evening dedicated to exploring their favorite under-the-radar spots in the Indonesian capital.

4 P.M. Pasar Baru is a long way from Camden Town, but the vintage clothes on the racks here rival the gems found in thrift stores around the world. On the second floor of Metro Atom IVING AN INDIE LIFE

24-Hour Party People Clockwise from right: Outside Blenger Burger restaurant; taking in an indie music concert; browsing vintage vinyl at a record shop on Jalan Surabaya.

Jakarta’s Beat. Santamonica, one of the hottest bands in Indonesia’s burgeoning indie scene, take JASON TEDJASUKMANA on a nocturnal tour of the city’s hopping alternative spots

INDONESIA

Alt Jakarta Clockwise from top: Joseph and Anindita Saryuf, better known as Santamonica, at Loca restaurant; the couple at Oishisha bar; shopping in a small boutique; Joseph waits at another outlet.

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Photographed by AHMAD DENY SALMAN

Plaza (Jln. Gereja Ayam) are dozens of retailers selling everything from Fred Perry shirts to Vivienne Westwood frocks.

“This place is very kitsch but you never know what you’re going to find,” says Dita, 28.

5:20 P.M. The hunt continues on Jalan Surabaya. This historic street in Central Jakarta has become a favorite haunt for lovers of rare vinyl. At Mohican (No. 6, Jln. Surabaya; 62-21/92714532), Dita and Iyub bump into their friend Ika. “I really want to find a copy of Gendjer-Gendjer,” Dita tells her, referring to the haunting tune featured in a classic propaganda film about the failed Communist coup attempt of 1965. The shop’s owner says he has a copy, but without the sleeve, for Rs150,000.

“I don’t think it’s worth it honey,” answers Iyub, 27. “It’s just not the same without the cover art.”

6:15 P.M. Blok M is the home to

dozens of “distros,” small shops selling gear by local designers.

Suddenly, at Nanonine (No. 18, Jln. Lamandau IV; 62-21/72554070), “The Boy”—a song off Santamonica’s new album— comes on. Dita nearly jumps into Iyub’s arms, she’s so surprised to hear the track. The excitement isn’t enough to persuade them to purchase anything, however, and they’re getting hungry.

6:30 P.M. Next door at Blenger Burger (No. 22, Jln. Lamandau IV ), the line snakes around the outdoor tables in front of this popular burger shack. The double cheeseburger and fries should sustain them through the evening’s next stop, an indie concert in the Majestic area of South Jakarta.

7:30 P.M. Pulling up on Jalan Bumi, Dita rolls down the window of the car and shouts out to one of her friends playing in the show. “Hey, am I going get a

chance to sing with you tonight?”

The friend smiles and replies: “Not sure we can fit you on the stage.” Indeed, the stage in the middle of a parking lot is tiny but the scene is hopping.

10 P.M. It’s time to get some real food at one of their favorite places in Kemang, South Jakarta’s expatriate enclave and nightlife destination. Loca (No. 7A, Jln. Benda Raya; 62-21/7883-1979) is a cozy haunt with overstuffed sofas.

At their favorite corner table, Dita orders cream of mushroom soup and penne with mushroom sauce, while Iyub goes for a chocolate shake and sausage pasta. After dinner, there’s still time for a quick nightcap so they head out before it gets too late.

12 P.M. Oishisha (No. 73, Jln. Kemang Raya; 62-21/719-4352), a new bar, is heaving with the latenight crowd. Kids with blue glow-sticks looped around their necks are jumping up and down and the air is dense with smoke.

But Dita and Iyub’s energy is starting to wane; the couple don’t go clubbing that much, now that they have a toddler. “I think I might be getting a bit too old for this,” Dita says. Iyub agrees and they head for some air on the balcony. But the skies threaten to open up, so the two instead head for the door.

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isn’t easy in a town where record stores still file Catherine Wheel under “female artist.” Yet Joseph and Anindita Saryuf—the husband-and-wife duo known as Santamonica— have managed to create a lifestyle that wouldn’t be out of place in Brooklyn. Hipsterdom does, however, require ingenuity here. Joseph and Anindita, better known as Iyub and Dita, may sport the regulation skinny pants and asymmetrical haircuts; but putting together that look entails hours trawling thrift stores. Gigs, meanwhile, are staged in parking lots and other impromptu venues. To find this scene, you definitely need an inside track. So T+L caught up with these electronic wizards for an evening dedicated to exploring their favorite under-the-radar spots in the Indonesian capital.

4 P.M. Pasar Baru is a long way from Camden Town, but the vintage clothes on the racks here rival the gems found in thrift stores around the world. On the second floor of Metro Atom IVING AN INDIE LIFE

24-Hour Party People Clockwise from right: Outside Blenger Burger restaurant; taking in an indie music concert; browsing vintage vinyl at a record shop on Jalan Surabaya.

Jakarta’s Beat. Santamonica, one of the hottest bands in Indonesia’s burgeoning indie scene, take JASON TEDJASUKMANA on a nocturnal tour of the city’s hopping alternative spots

INDONESIA

Alt Jakarta Clockwise from top: Joseph and Anindita Saryuf, better known as Santamonica, at Loca restaurant; the couple at Oishisha bar; shopping in a small boutique; Joseph waits at another outlet.

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Photographed by AHMAD DENY SALMAN

Plaza (Jln. Gereja Ayam) are dozens of retailers selling everything from Fred Perry shirts to Vivienne Westwood frocks.

“This place is very kitsch but you never know what you’re going to find,” says Dita, 28.

5:20 P.M. The hunt continues on Jalan Surabaya. This historic street in Central Jakarta has become a favorite haunt for lovers of rare vinyl. At Mohican (No. 6, Jln. Surabaya; 62-21/92714532), Dita and Iyub bump into their friend Ika. “I really want to find a copy of Gendjer-Gendjer,” Dita tells her, referring to the haunting tune featured in a classic propaganda film about the failed Communist coup attempt of 1965. The shop’s owner says he has a copy, but without the sleeve, for Rs150,000.

“I don’t think it’s worth it honey,” answers Iyub, 27. “It’s just not the same without the cover art.”

6:15 P.M. Blok M is the home to

dozens of “distros,” small shops selling gear by local designers.

Suddenly, at Nanonine (No. 18, Jln. Lamandau IV; 62-21/72554070), “The Boy”—a song off Santamonica’s new album— comes on. Dita nearly jumps into Iyub’s arms, she’s so surprised to hear the track. The excitement isn’t enough to persuade them to purchase anything, however, and they’re getting hungry.

6:30 P.M. Next door at Blenger Burger (No. 22, Jln. Lamandau IV ), the line snakes around the outdoor tables in front of this popular burger shack. The double cheeseburger and fries should sustain them through the evening’s next stop, an indie concert in the Majestic area of South Jakarta.

7:30 P.M. Pulling up on Jalan Bumi, Dita rolls down the window of the car and shouts out to one of her friends playing in the show. “Hey, am I going get a

chance to sing with you tonight?”

The friend smiles and replies: “Not sure we can fit you on the stage.” Indeed, the stage in the middle of a parking lot is tiny but the scene is hopping.

10 P.M. It’s time to get some real food at one of their favorite places in Kemang, South Jakarta’s expatriate enclave and nightlife destination. Loca (No. 7A, Jln. Benda Raya; 62-21/7883-1979) is a cozy haunt with overstuffed sofas.

At their favorite corner table, Dita orders cream of mushroom soup and penne with mushroom sauce, while Iyub goes for a chocolate shake and sausage pasta. After dinner, there’s still time for a quick nightcap so they head out before it gets too late.

12 P.M. Oishisha (No. 73, Jln. Kemang Raya; 62-21/719-4352), a new bar, is heaving with the latenight crowd. Kids with blue glow-sticks looped around their necks are jumping up and down and the air is dense with smoke.

But Dita and Iyub’s energy is starting to wane; the couple don’t go clubbing that much, now that they have a toddler. “I think I might be getting a bit too old for this,” Dita says. Iyub agrees and they head for some air on the balcony. But the skies threaten to open up, so the two instead head for the door.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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green | insider

Back to the Earth. From Costa Rica to China, luxury lodges are

providing comfort amid pristine landscapes—while salving travelers’ the other in Australia’s Northern Territory—that fit the bill

environmental consciences. Here, two properties—one on Easter Island,

F

UNIQUE EVEN IN A COUNTRY that idealizes the “back of beyond,” Australia’s Kakadu National Park, in the Northern Territory, may be one of the last landscapes on earth to remain untouched since Creation—at least, Creation as understood by the aboriginal Bininj, who have inhabited the place for more than 40,000 years. Until recently, an overnight stay in this wilderness was rough going. But that has changed with the opening of Bamurru Plains (61-2/9571-6677; www.bamurruplains.com; doubles from US$1,666). This camp of nine open-plan suites built on timber platforms overlooks the floodplain just outside the park’s western border. It’s a bush station where “creature

IFTEEN YEARS AGO, CUTTING-EDGE hotelier

Pedro Ibañez opened the first Explora—Hotel Salto Chico, a luxury eco-lodge in Patagonia— and pioneered a new way for travelers to experience South America’s most rugged landscape. He’s breaking ground again, 3,220 kilometers off the central coast of Chile, with a hotel on Easter Island, or Rapa Nui, famed for its monolithic moai statues. Only residents are allowed to build on the remote isle, so Ibañez partnered with free-diving champion Mike Rapu (who gave the hotel its quirky name, Posada de Mike Rapu). In true Explora spirit, the property (which is certified by the U.S. LEED 62

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

green building system)—set between the Pacific and a massive volcano—takes its inspiration from the surrounding environment. The 30 spare-but-stylish oceanfacing rooms and suites are made from native woods and volcanic rock. During the excavation of the site, a prehistoric cave was discovered; a glass floor in one wing allows guests to peek at this natural wonder. Local guides take adventurers swimming in natural pools, biking to craters—and, of course, hiking to see those famous figures.

Explora en Rapa Nui–Posada de Mike Rapu; 1-866/750-6699; www.explora.com; doubles from US$2,334, including all meals and activities, three-night minimum.—L A U R A B E G L E Y

CO U RT ESY O F BA M U R RU P L A I N S

A view of the floodplain from the infinity pool at Australia‘s Bamurru Plains eco-lodge.

D A I V D B AT E / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M

The famed, mysterious moai statues, which are found scattered throughout Easter Island.

comforts” refers to the pleasures of wildlife viewing (fauna include water buffalo, wallabies and kookaburras) rather than high-tech amenities—there are no phones, TV’s, or CD players. Take an airboat expedition through the Swim Creek floodplain area or a LandCruiser safari into neighboring Kakadu, one of the few UNESCO World Heritage sites with a dual listing: it’s both a cultural and a natural landmark. During monsoon season, between January and March, this 20,000-square-kilometer reserve comes alive, with roaring waterfalls, savannas shaded by eucalyptus and freshwater billabongs concealing toothy crocodiles. It’s beyond, Aussie-style.—S H A N E M I T C H E L L T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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green | insider

Back to the Earth. From Costa Rica to China, luxury lodges are

providing comfort amid pristine landscapes—while salving travelers’ the other in Australia’s Northern Territory—that fit the bill

environmental consciences. Here, two properties—one on Easter Island,

F

UNIQUE EVEN IN A COUNTRY that idealizes the “back of beyond,” Australia’s Kakadu National Park, in the Northern Territory, may be one of the last landscapes on earth to remain untouched since Creation—at least, Creation as understood by the aboriginal Bininj, who have inhabited the place for more than 40,000 years. Until recently, an overnight stay in this wilderness was rough going. But that has changed with the opening of Bamurru Plains (61-2/9571-6677; www.bamurruplains.com; doubles from US$1,666). This camp of nine open-plan suites built on timber platforms overlooks the floodplain just outside the park’s western border. It’s a bush station where “creature

IFTEEN YEARS AGO, CUTTING-EDGE hotelier

Pedro Ibañez opened the first Explora—Hotel Salto Chico, a luxury eco-lodge in Patagonia— and pioneered a new way for travelers to experience South America’s most rugged landscape. He’s breaking ground again, 3,220 kilometers off the central coast of Chile, with a hotel on Easter Island, or Rapa Nui, famed for its monolithic moai statues. Only residents are allowed to build on the remote isle, so Ibañez partnered with free-diving champion Mike Rapu (who gave the hotel its quirky name, Posada de Mike Rapu). In true Explora spirit, the property (which is certified by the U.S. LEED 62

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

green building system)—set between the Pacific and a massive volcano—takes its inspiration from the surrounding environment. The 30 spare-but-stylish oceanfacing rooms and suites are made from native woods and volcanic rock. During the excavation of the site, a prehistoric cave was discovered; a glass floor in one wing allows guests to peek at this natural wonder. Local guides take adventurers swimming in natural pools, biking to craters—and, of course, hiking to see those famous figures.

Explora en Rapa Nui–Posada de Mike Rapu; 1-866/750-6699; www.explora.com; doubles from US$2,334, including all meals and activities, three-night minimum.—L A U R A B E G L E Y

CO U RT ESY O F BA M U R RU P L A I N S

A view of the floodplain from the infinity pool at Australia‘s Bamurru Plains eco-lodge.

D A I V D B AT E / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M

The famed, mysterious moai statues, which are found scattered throughout Easter Island.

comforts” refers to the pleasures of wildlife viewing (fauna include water buffalo, wallabies and kookaburras) rather than high-tech amenities—there are no phones, TV’s, or CD players. Take an airboat expedition through the Swim Creek floodplain area or a LandCruiser safari into neighboring Kakadu, one of the few UNESCO World Heritage sites with a dual listing: it’s both a cultural and a natural landmark. During monsoon season, between January and March, this 20,000-square-kilometer reserve comes alive, with roaring waterfalls, savannas shaded by eucalyptus and freshwater billabongs concealing toothy crocodiles. It’s beyond, Aussie-style.—S H A N E M I T C H E L L T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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StylishTraveler SPOTLIGHT...68 | ICON...70 | BEAUTY...72 | THE

LIST

...73

A

sundappled afternoon in the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden at the New York Botanical Garden (Bronx River Pkwy. and Fordham Rd., Bronx; 1-718/8178700; www.nybg. org; Tues.–Sun. 10 A.M.–6 P.M.) Silk chiffon dress

by Douglas Hannant (www.douglas hannant.com).

I N

F U L L

Bloom

This spring, don’t just stop and smell the flowers—go ahead and wear them, too.

Here, the New York Botanical Garden provides a natural backdrop for the season’s freshest looks. Photographed by BEN WATTS. Styled by MIMI LOMBARDO 65

ASIA GARDEN GUIDE

Take a walk through the region’s best gardens.

Singapore ➻ Botanic Gardens

1 Cluny Rd.; 65/ 6471-7361; www.sbg. org.sg; free.

Hong Kong ➻ Zoological and

Botanical Gardens Albany Rd., Central; 852/2530-0154; www. lcsd.gov.hk; free.

Rimba Ilmu ➻ (Kuala Lumpur)

University of Malaya; 60-3/7967-4686; rimba. um.edu.my; adults RM4, children free.

S

triking a pose in the New York Botanical Garden’s Rodney White Country Garden, where you can learn how to cultivate your own green space. Cotton dress by See by Chloé (www chloe.com) ; stretch suede and calfskin flats, Chanel (www.chanel.com); linen canvas cap, Hat Attack (www.hatattack.com); sterling silver cuff, Leslie Danzis (www.lesliedanzis.org).

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P R O P S T Y L I S T : N O E M I B O N A Z Z I / M A R E K & A S S O C I A T E S ; H A I R : S T A C I C H I L D F O R R E D K E N / C U T L E R N Y C ; M A K E U P : R E B E C C A A L E X A N D E R / R A Y B R O W N ; M O D E L : C A R LY/ E L I T E

stylish traveler | fashion

STOCKISTS Douglas Hanant www. douglashannant.com; Anne Klein www.anneklein.com; Chanel www.chanel.com; MCL www.xxxxxxxxx.com; RJ Graaziano www.xxxxxxxx.com; Chloe www.chloe.com; Leslie Danzis www.xxxxxxxxxx.com.

T

aking cover outside the Enid A. Haupt Conservatory, which is hosting the United States’ premier orchid exhibition this month. Cotton-silk dress by Rena Lange (www.renalange.com); patent leather wedges, Anne Klein (www.anneklein.com); lambskin purse, Chanel; enamel bracelet with sapphires (left), M.C.L. Design by Matthew Campbell Laurenza (www.mcldesign.net); gold-plated enamel bracelets (right), R. J. Graziano (www.rjgraziano.com). ✚ 67

ASIA GARDEN GUIDE

Take a walk through the region’s best gardens.

Singapore ➻ Botanic Gardens

1 Cluny Rd.; 65/ 6471-7361; www.sbg. org.sg; free.

Hong Kong ➻ Zoological and

Botanical Gardens Albany Rd., Central; 852/2530-0154; www. lcsd.gov.hk; free.

Rimba Ilmu ➻ (Kuala Lumpur)

University of Malaya; 60-3/7967-4686; rimba. um.edu.my; adults RM4, children free.

S

triking a pose in the New York Botanical Garden’s Rodney White Country Garden, where you can learn how to cultivate your own green space. Cotton dress by See by Chloé (www chloe.com) ; stretch suede and calfskin flats, Chanel (www.chanel.com); linen canvas cap, Hat Attack (www.hatattack.com); sterling silver cuff, Leslie Danzis (www.lesliedanzis.org).

66

P R O P S T Y L I S T : N O E M I B O N A Z Z I / M A R E K & A S S O C I A T E S ; H A I R : S T A C I C H I L D F O R R E D K E N / C U T L E R N Y C ; M A K E U P : R E B E C C A A L E X A N D E R / R A Y B R O W N ; M O D E L : C A R LY/ E L I T E

stylish traveler | fashion

STOCKISTS Douglas Hanant www. douglashannant.com; Anne Klein www.anneklein.com; Chanel www.chanel.com; MCL www.xxxxxxxxx.com; RJ Graaziano www.xxxxxxxx.com; Chloe www.chloe.com; Leslie Danzis www.xxxxxxxxxx.com.

T

aking cover outside the Enid A. Haupt Conservatory, which is hosting the United States’ premier orchid exhibition this month. Cotton-silk dress by Rena Lange (www.renalange.com); patent leather wedges, Anne Klein (www.anneklein.com); lambskin purse, Chanel; enamel bracelet with sapphires (left), M.C.L. Design by Matthew Campbell Laurenza (www.mcldesign.net); gold-plated enamel bracelets (right), R. J. Graziano (www.rjgraziano.com). ✚ 67

stylish traveler

| spotlight

Thakoon in New York. Right: Boats at Ko Phi Phi. Above: A.P.C. sunglasses.

Below: Blue crab miso soup from En Japanese Brasserie.

Native Son Designer Thakoon Panichgul tells JENNIFER CHEN about his favorite stops in Asia

THAKOON’S HIT LIST

TOKYO SHOPS: 10 CORSO COMO COMME DES GARÇONS (5-3 Minami-Aoyama; 81-3/5774-7800) ISETAN (3-13-1 Shinjuku; 81-3/3352-1111) NEW YORK EATS: LOVELY DAY (196 Elizabeth St.; 1-212/925-3310) EN JAPANESE BRASSERIE (435 Hudson St.; 1-212/647-9196) IL BUCO (47 Bond St.; 1-212/ 212-533-1932)

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northeastern Thailand, Thakoon Panichgul emigrated to the United States when he was 11 years old. Since debuting his ready-to-wear line in 2004, he has won numerous accolades and a devoted following among Hollywood trendsetters such as Kate Bosworth for his elegant, subtly sexy designs. Even though he’s scaled the heights of the fashion world, the New York– based designer still finds time to visit the land of his birth every year. T+L caught up with him to find out what’s on his must-do list in Asia.

ON ARRIVAL IN THAILAND “I have to get a bowl of porridge, because usually when you land, it’s in the middle of the night and porridge—khao tom—just really relaxes you … There’s a little restaurant downstairs at the hotel where we stay, the Hyatt Erawan [You & Mee]. Of course, when you’re up north, you can just get it from the street.”

NEXT DESTINATIONS IN THAILAND “Definitely Ko Phi Phi and Ko Samui. I’ve never been to the east coast of Thailand.”

FAVORITE ASIAN CITY “I love Tokyo for what it is— it’s sort of a parallel to New York but with an Asian sensibility. It’s mind-boggling in its complexity.”

NEVER LEAVES HOME WITHOUT “My Comme des Garçons cardigan, my Moleskine sketchpad, my A.P.C. sunglasses and my Blackberry.”

ASIAN INFLUENCES “When I design, I don’t specifically say, ‘This is Asian-inspired.’ It comes out more in the manner of being elegant and formal. I think in Asia there’s a sense of formality and being proper. It’s about being sensual and proper rather than overt and sexy.” ✚

Thakoon in Thailand.

Left: A dress from the spring/ summer 2008 collection.

A Blackberry phone. Below: The chef’s table at Il Buco restaurant.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M B O T T O M L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F E N J A P A N E S E B R A S S E R I E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H A K O O N P A N I C H G U L ; C O U R T E S Y O F A . P. C . ; E L L I E B R A N N A N ; CO U RT E SY O F T H A KO O N PA N I C H G U L ; CO U RT E SY O F B L AC K B E R RY; CO U RT E SY O F I L B U CO

B

ORN IN THE TOWN OF Nakhon Phanom in

stylish traveler

| icon

3 More Options

COLE HAAN

The solution when all of your travel ensembles are black and beige? Gold python, US$495.

Chanel lambskin ballet flat, US$460.

Fashionable and comfortable, Chanel’s ballet flats can go anywhere. By LYNN YAEGER. Photographed by NIGEL COX

C

OULD MADEMOISELLE CHANEL have known, somewhere deep in her desperately

chic bones, what travails the 21st-century traveler would face? Exactly 50 years ago, Coco launched her famous two-tone spectator pump: a sleek beige chassis with a jaunty black toe-cap, borrowed, like so many of the designer’s innovations, from men’s sportswear. Now, a half-century later, when even the most glamorous globe-trotter must contend with cramming her wardrobe into a minuscule carry-on, what could be better than Chanel’s bicolored ballet slippers, equally at home with frothy frocks and wellworn jeans, happy to attend midnight suppers, then get up early the next morning for a multi-arrondissement trek exploring ancient alleyways, and practically (thanks to those black toes) scuff-proof. It is difficult to imagine any other single shoe that so seamlessly takes the place of both sneakers and evening sandals, while managing to look effortless and fabulous to boot. ✚

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PRADA

Ombré patent leather adds polish to your travel uniform, US$475.

APRIL 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

YVES SAINT LAURENT Go bold with calf-hair flats from the venerable French fashion house, US$430.

D AV I E S + S TA R R ( 3 ) . A S S O C I AT E FA S H I O N E D I T O R : N I C S C R E W S

A STEP AHEAD

stylish traveler

| beauty 1 Freshen up your skin with Apivita cleansing tissues, which work without water.

2 The aloe-vera and linden-flower base of the Elemis antioxidantloaded Pro-Collagen Hand and Nail Cream relieves the most chapped skin.

3 Apply Skyn Iceland Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gel patches right before you land; they depuff with a cooling sensation.

4 A spritz of Shu Uemura’s mineral-rich Depsea Water is a quick and easy way to add extra moisture.

5 The SheerinO’kho First Class Flight face cream utilizes ingredients like Indian senna (a plant used in Ayurvedic treatments) to combat in-flight dryness — plus, it has a nice, light texture.

6 Keep your lips nourished by applying Fresh Sugar Lip Gloss, made with vitamin E and shea butter.

7 Pack an extra hydrating punch by using the 8 Flower Nectar from Darphin under your moisturizer. Added bonus: its mix of flower oils makes for a mini aromatherapy session.

8 Store everything in a chic felt cosmetics case by Hermès.

8

3

4 2

5 1 6

7

PLANE PERFECT These carry-on products will keep your skin healthy and hydrated—even at cruising altitude. Photographed by NIGEL COX. Produced by ELIZABETH WOODSON 72

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the list | stylish traveler

2 1 Shell jewelry boxes Ginger Phuket; Phuket, Thailand; 66-76/271-617.

Silver amulet necklace Sipsong Panna Silver; Chiang Mai, Thailand; 66-53/216-096.

3 Lacquer painting Faifo; Hoi An, Vietnam; 84-510/861-782.

5 Matcha tea set Kobo-ichi Market; Kyoto, Japan.

8SOUVENIRS

OFFBEAT

4 Lucky cat piggy bank Tokyu Hands; Tokyo, Japan; 81-3/3980-6111.

T+L Southeast Asia’s staffers share their favorite finds from around the region.

Photographed by SITTIPUN CHAITERDSRI

6

7

8

Embroidered purse Tan My; Hanoi, Vietnam; 84-4/825-1579.

Salt and pepper shakers Tesoro’s; Manila, Philippines; 63-2/524-3936.

Handmade silk toy Bannerman Tang’s Toys & Handicrafts; Beijing, China; 86-10/8404-7179.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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The subway has one less passenger today.

Her quest led her here.

Whether it is travelling by elephant in India or travelling by gondola through Venice, The Leading Hotels of the World offers the ideal manner by which to get there.

Visit www.lhw.com or call our Reservations Centre.

Singapore: 1-800-737-9955 toll free or (65) 6737-9955. Hong Kong: 800-96-2518 toll free.

Malaysia: 1-800-80-1006 toll free. Indonesia: (001) 803-65-6609 toll free. Thailand: (001) 800-65-6099 toll free.

~ T R E N D S ,

C U L T U R E ,

F O O D

A

N D

M O R E ~

T+L Journal BRUNEI

Treetop Treats Covered in primary tropical rain forest, tiny Brunei is positioning itself as a destination for ecotourism, with pristine Ulu Temburong National Park the major draw card.

By PHIL MACDONALD. Photographed by PHILIPP ENGELHORN

MIND BODY 80 MUSIC 84 ADVENTURE 88 A treehouse on the Sungai Temburong river. Right: Steps to the canopy walk.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

DRIVING 91

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t+l journal

| outdoors

Park Pleasures From far left: Magnificent views from the canopy walk at Ulu Temburong National Park; flora in the national park; local wildlife. Opposite, from left: Riverside vegetation; a longboat makes its way up the Sungai Temburong river.

ULU TEMBURONG National Park is only accessible by longboat, which adds tremendously to the “wilderness” feel of the place

Y

a better place at dawn than standing alone amid the canopy of a gorgeous, pristine tropical rain forest, as a swirling mist wraps around tall treetops, and the diffused morning light accentuates colors and textures so that the jungle parades itself in a dozen shades of green as it rolls back in waves to distant mountains.

Or, so I’m told…

By the time I make it to the rain forest canopy walk at Brunei’s Ulu Temburong National Park—the country’s ecotourism showpiece—the mist has long since dissipated, and those colors and textures are diluted under a fierce white sun. That I miss the canopy-walk-at-dawn experience can be put down to sloppy planning and bad luck—hallmarks of most of my travel experiences. I had wanted to stay overnight at the national park, before springing out of bed predawn for an invigorating uphill climb to the canopy walk, arriving just in time to watch a blood-red sun peak above the horizon; take in the sweet morning mist; and marvel at the sweeping views of the tropical rain forest in the delightful cool of early morning Southeast Asia. But I learn at the last minute that the overnight cabins at Ulu Temburong

76

OU COULD HARDLY BE IN

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

National Park are closed, undergoing refurbishment.

Apparently, they are being upgraded from the bare-board style of Youth Group Dormitory to Upmarket Rustic—a change aimed at foreign tourists too busy to argue about who gets the top bunk and part of Brunei’s efforts to swell visitor numbers.

Instead, as the mists swirl among the treetops of Ulu Temburong, I’m snoozing at an Outward Bound–style camp, a pretty spot by the Sungai Temburong river about 20 kilometers downstream from the entrance to the national park. So is my tour guide, who I eventually have to wake up (after I had woken up, of course) with some tentative prodding—the type you use on people you have never woken up before.

Ulu Temburong National Park is only accessible to visitors by longboat, which adds tremendously to the “wilderness” feel of the place. It’s a real treat to clamber aboard these narrow-hulled, wooden boats (more like an elongated canoes, actually) with their small outboard motors, and chug along the Sungai Temburong river at jaunty pace. The Sungai Temburong is a quintessential jungle tributary: narrow and serpentine, with its muddy flow intermittently

interrupted by the bubbling whitewash of small rapids, which our boatman negotiates using a long bamboo pole.

Best of all, the river is fringed all the way by a towering tangle of rain forest that, in places, arches over the river from both banks, obscuring much of the sky.

The only criticism I can offer is that the river trip isn’t long enough. Barely 30 minutes after stepping aboard the boat, I am stepping off the boat at the bottom of steps that lead up the to the rain-forest canopy walk. That’s the problem in a country as minuscule as Brunei (a paltry 5,765-square-kilometer splodge on the northwestern tip of Borneo)—just when you are getting really involved, it’s time to stop.

The climb to the base of the canopy walk is via a steep zigzag of wooden steps cut through the tall, thick rainforest and thoughtfully made slip-proof with an overlay of chicken wire. The 15- to 20-minute ascent does take a little

effort, but if I can manage it without collapsing (which I did), then it shouldn’t present too many problems for the rest of you.

From the top of the steps, the canopy walk rises 30 meters and is accessed by climbing a series of ladders enclosed by aluminum scaffolding and mesh. It then runs for around 70 meters along the roof of the forest. The canopy walk is staggered, so about every 20 meters or so you are confronted with another ladder, which you can climb for even more magnificent views of the rain forest as it sweeps off into distant mountains. Balancing on the canopy, looking straight down to the forest floor, provides an unusual, dizzying perspective—like views you’d get clinging to the top branches of a tree and peering nervously downward.

It’s a sensational, silent and contemplative place up there among the treetops (even at this time of day), and a truly outstanding and memorable experience.

After the canopy walk, we head back down the zigzagging steps (which, by the way, is a lot easier than heading up), hop in the boat and chug down river a short distance to the national park village, a pleasant area » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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t+l journal

| outdoors

Park Pleasures From far left: Magnificent views from the canopy walk at Ulu Temburong National Park; flora in the national park; local wildlife. Opposite, from left: Riverside vegetation; a longboat makes its way up the Sungai Temburong river.

ULU TEMBURONG National Park is only accessible by longboat, which adds tremendously to the “wilderness” feel of the place

Y

a better place at dawn than standing alone amid the canopy of a gorgeous, pristine tropical rain forest, as a swirling mist wraps around tall treetops, and the diffused morning light accentuates colors and textures so that the jungle parades itself in a dozen shades of green as it rolls back in waves to distant mountains.

Or, so I’m told…

By the time I make it to the rain forest canopy walk at Brunei’s Ulu Temburong National Park—the country’s ecotourism showpiece—the mist has long since dissipated, and those colors and textures are diluted under a fierce white sun. That I miss the canopy-walk-at-dawn experience can be put down to sloppy planning and bad luck—hallmarks of most of my travel experiences. I had wanted to stay overnight at the national park, before springing out of bed predawn for an invigorating uphill climb to the canopy walk, arriving just in time to watch a blood-red sun peak above the horizon; take in the sweet morning mist; and marvel at the sweeping views of the tropical rain forest in the delightful cool of early morning Southeast Asia. But I learn at the last minute that the overnight cabins at Ulu Temburong

76

OU COULD HARDLY BE IN

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

National Park are closed, undergoing refurbishment.

Apparently, they are being upgraded from the bare-board style of Youth Group Dormitory to Upmarket Rustic—a change aimed at foreign tourists too busy to argue about who gets the top bunk and part of Brunei’s efforts to swell visitor numbers.

Instead, as the mists swirl among the treetops of Ulu Temburong, I’m snoozing at an Outward Bound–style camp, a pretty spot by the Sungai Temburong river about 20 kilometers downstream from the entrance to the national park. So is my tour guide, who I eventually have to wake up (after I had woken up, of course) with some tentative prodding—the type you use on people you have never woken up before.

Ulu Temburong National Park is only accessible to visitors by longboat, which adds tremendously to the “wilderness” feel of the place. It’s a real treat to clamber aboard these narrow-hulled, wooden boats (more like an elongated canoes, actually) with their small outboard motors, and chug along the Sungai Temburong river at jaunty pace. The Sungai Temburong is a quintessential jungle tributary: narrow and serpentine, with its muddy flow intermittently

interrupted by the bubbling whitewash of small rapids, which our boatman negotiates using a long bamboo pole.

Best of all, the river is fringed all the way by a towering tangle of rain forest that, in places, arches over the river from both banks, obscuring much of the sky.

The only criticism I can offer is that the river trip isn’t long enough. Barely 30 minutes after stepping aboard the boat, I am stepping off the boat at the bottom of steps that lead up the to the rain-forest canopy walk. That’s the problem in a country as minuscule as Brunei (a paltry 5,765-square-kilometer splodge on the northwestern tip of Borneo)—just when you are getting really involved, it’s time to stop.

The climb to the base of the canopy walk is via a steep zigzag of wooden steps cut through the tall, thick rainforest and thoughtfully made slip-proof with an overlay of chicken wire. The 15- to 20-minute ascent does take a little

effort, but if I can manage it without collapsing (which I did), then it shouldn’t present too many problems for the rest of you.

From the top of the steps, the canopy walk rises 30 meters and is accessed by climbing a series of ladders enclosed by aluminum scaffolding and mesh. It then runs for around 70 meters along the roof of the forest. The canopy walk is staggered, so about every 20 meters or so you are confronted with another ladder, which you can climb for even more magnificent views of the rain forest as it sweeps off into distant mountains. Balancing on the canopy, looking straight down to the forest floor, provides an unusual, dizzying perspective—like views you’d get clinging to the top branches of a tree and peering nervously downward.

It’s a sensational, silent and contemplative place up there among the treetops (even at this time of day), and a truly outstanding and memorable experience.

After the canopy walk, we head back down the zigzagging steps (which, by the way, is a lot easier than heading up), hop in the boat and chug down river a short distance to the national park village, a pleasant area » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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Balancing on the CANOPY, looking straight down to the forest floor, provides an unusual, dizzying perspective

with covered timber walkways leading uphill to various cottages, dining halls, shops and the park headquarters— all built in a modest, subdued style, which neatly melds with the natural surroundings of the park. At the national park headquarters, I was hoping to pick up lots of booklets and brochures, whose contents I could use to pepper this story with informative facts and figures. If you have read this far, you’d have probably noticed that I had limited success.

Inside, the park headquarters building is as forlorn as you get: a couple of faded, dog-eared brochures lie on a rickety table, some dull displays of cutaway tree trunks are arranged in the middle of the hall, and pictures of plants labeled with long Latin names sit uninterestingly along the walls. And there is no staff. They probably found the place as boring as I did, and left. The only thing of any interest is a dinky little diorama of the national park, which looks as if it has been assembled in a toy factory in China. And it’s only interesting because it’s funny. I notice that some of the little plastic trees on the diorama have fallen over, and wonder if someone has chopped them down with a tiny plastic chainsaw.

Not only is the diorama funny, it is outdated. It shows a 78

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walkway that starts at the park headquarters and wends its way through the little plastic forest of trees, over two or three little plastic suspension bridges and alongside a meandering plastic river, finally ending up back at the park headquarters.

It turns out that this represents a 7-kilometer-long boardwalk built through the rain forest in 1995. But because of lousy construction and neglect it began to fall apart even before it was finished. Now, only about 1 kilometer of the boardwalk—from the park headquarters to the canopy walk—is maintained. The rest has collapsed and is rotting away, and has been out of service for years. What a shame.

A 7-kilometer-long boardwalk through such gorgeous primary rain forest would have been as much as attraction to this beautiful park as its canopy walkway.

For a place that is so easily accessible from Brunei’s capital of Bandar Seri Begawan, Ulu Temburong National Park is strangely deserted, especially as it is touted

Jungle Trip Clockwise from left: A boatman stands by his longboat on the Sungai Temburong river; ivy climbs a tree in the national park; in the thick of the forest. Opposite, from far left: Fallen trees over a waterfall; national park flora.

as one of the country’s major tourist attractions. The day I spend at the national park, I spot only three other tourists, and two of those are in the same longboat as me.

Ironically, on its website, the country’s national tourism authority, Brunei Tourism, touts this lack of tourism as a major draw card for tourists: “With few tourists around, nature lovers will appreciate having this untouched paradise all to themselves …”

Primary tropical rain forest carpets 78 percent of Brunei’s land area (with its immense wealth earned through offshore oil and natural gas deposits, it has never really needed to exploit its forests). Although the country is tiny, that’s still an impressive figure, especially considering the destruction of rain forests in neighboring Malaysia and Indonesia.

Southeast Asia has lost 88 percent of its primary tropical rain forests to logging (both legal and illegal), slash and burn farming, and plantations. Even in these days of “ecological enlightenment,” it is still losing rain forest more rapidly than any other region in the world—three times faster than South America, five times quicker than Africa.

So Brunei’s modest contribution to rain forest preservation is much appreciated.

GUIDE TO BRUNEI WHEN TO GO Brunei doesn’t have marked wet and dry seasons, and rainfall occurs year round, with the heaviest falling between September and January.

Temperatures are also consistent year round, with the daily range between 24 and 31 degrees.

Humidity is always high. Try to avoid Ramadan, when Muslims fast between dawn and dusk for a month, and a lot of places close down.

HOW TO GET THERE Royal Brunei flies three of four times a week from most Southeast Asian capitals and some provincial centers, while nearly all major Southeast Asian carriers fly, albeit sparingly, to the country’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. Budget airline AirAsia has regular flights from Kuala Lumpur to Brunei.

TOUR GUIDES It is difficult to get to Temburong National Park National Park without involving a tour guide company. Sunshine Borneo Tours & Travel has the concession to operate the recently refurbished cottages at the park, so it would be your best bet if you want to experience the canopy walk at dawn. It has both day-trip and overnight packages.

67-3/244-6812; package tours from B$136.

WHERE TO STAY Empire Hotel and Country Club Sprawling resort with golf course, health center, cinema, theater and five-star guest rooms Jerudong; 67-3/241-8888; www. theempirehotel.com; doubles from B$220.

Sheraton Utama Jln. Tasek; 67-3/224-4272; www. starwoodhotels.com/sheraton; doubles from B$210.

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Balancing on the CANOPY, looking straight down to the forest floor, provides an unusual, dizzying perspective

with covered timber walkways leading uphill to various cottages, dining halls, shops and the park headquarters— all built in a modest, subdued style, which neatly melds with the natural surroundings of the park. At the national park headquarters, I was hoping to pick up lots of booklets and brochures, whose contents I could use to pepper this story with informative facts and figures. If you have read this far, you’d have probably noticed that I had limited success.

Inside, the park headquarters building is as forlorn as you get: a couple of faded, dog-eared brochures lie on a rickety table, some dull displays of cutaway tree trunks are arranged in the middle of the hall, and pictures of plants labeled with long Latin names sit uninterestingly along the walls. And there is no staff. They probably found the place as boring as I did, and left. The only thing of any interest is a dinky little diorama of the national park, which looks as if it has been assembled in a toy factory in China. And it’s only interesting because it’s funny. I notice that some of the little plastic trees on the diorama have fallen over, and wonder if someone has chopped them down with a tiny plastic chainsaw.

Not only is the diorama funny, it is outdated. It shows a 78

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walkway that starts at the park headquarters and wends its way through the little plastic forest of trees, over two or three little plastic suspension bridges and alongside a meandering plastic river, finally ending up back at the park headquarters.

It turns out that this represents a 7-kilometer-long boardwalk built through the rain forest in 1995. But because of lousy construction and neglect it began to fall apart even before it was finished. Now, only about 1 kilometer of the boardwalk—from the park headquarters to the canopy walk—is maintained. The rest has collapsed and is rotting away, and has been out of service for years. What a shame.

A 7-kilometer-long boardwalk through such gorgeous primary rain forest would have been as much as attraction to this beautiful park as its canopy walkway.

For a place that is so easily accessible from Brunei’s capital of Bandar Seri Begawan, Ulu Temburong National Park is strangely deserted, especially as it is touted

Jungle Trip Clockwise from left: A boatman stands by his longboat on the Sungai Temburong river; ivy climbs a tree in the national park; in the thick of the forest. Opposite, from far left: Fallen trees over a waterfall; national park flora.

as one of the country’s major tourist attractions. The day I spend at the national park, I spot only three other tourists, and two of those are in the same longboat as me.

Ironically, on its website, the country’s national tourism authority, Brunei Tourism, touts this lack of tourism as a major draw card for tourists: “With few tourists around, nature lovers will appreciate having this untouched paradise all to themselves …”

Primary tropical rain forest carpets 78 percent of Brunei’s land area (with its immense wealth earned through offshore oil and natural gas deposits, it has never really needed to exploit its forests). Although the country is tiny, that’s still an impressive figure, especially considering the destruction of rain forests in neighboring Malaysia and Indonesia.

Southeast Asia has lost 88 percent of its primary tropical rain forests to logging (both legal and illegal), slash and burn farming, and plantations. Even in these days of “ecological enlightenment,” it is still losing rain forest more rapidly than any other region in the world—three times faster than South America, five times quicker than Africa.

So Brunei’s modest contribution to rain forest preservation is much appreciated.

GUIDE TO BRUNEI WHEN TO GO Brunei doesn’t have marked wet and dry seasons, and rainfall occurs year round, with the heaviest falling between September and January.

Temperatures are also consistent year round, with the daily range between 24 and 31 degrees.

Humidity is always high. Try to avoid Ramadan, when Muslims fast between dawn and dusk for a month, and a lot of places close down.

HOW TO GET THERE Royal Brunei flies three of four times a week from most Southeast Asian capitals and some provincial centers, while nearly all major Southeast Asian carriers fly, albeit sparingly, to the country’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan. Budget airline AirAsia has regular flights from Kuala Lumpur to Brunei.

TOUR GUIDES It is difficult to get to Temburong National Park National Park without involving a tour guide company. Sunshine Borneo Tours & Travel has the concession to operate the recently refurbished cottages at the park, so it would be your best bet if you want to experience the canopy walk at dawn. It has both day-trip and overnight packages.

67-3/244-6812; package tours from B$136.

WHERE TO STAY Empire Hotel and Country Club Sprawling resort with golf course, health center, cinema, theater and five-star guest rooms Jerudong; 67-3/241-8888; www. theempirehotel.com; doubles from B$220.

Sheraton Utama Jln. Tasek; 67-3/224-4272; www. starwoodhotels.com/sheraton; doubles from B$210.

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Check in, check up With its world-class and luxurious medical facilities at affordable prices, Asia may become as popular for medical tourists as it is for holidaymakers.

By PAUL EHRLICH. Illustrated by WASINEE CHANTAKORN

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HARTIGAN, A TOUR GUIDE from Killarney, in Ireland, decided to get a checkup at Bangkok’s Bumrungrad International hospital during a 2004 golfing holiday in Thailand. Polyps were discovered and he remained there for treatment. Won over by the high level of medical care, Hartigan returned in December 2005 for hip surgery, which included a 12-day stay for physiotherapy in one the hospital’s adjacent luxury suites.

His reaction was like someone reviewing a resort: “I was over the moon. It would have cost three times as much in Dublin. But it wasn’t the cost alone. The facilities, the treatment and the beautiful surroundings—it’s incredible.

Doctors would take time to explain in simple and clear language, enabling me to understand exactly what was going on. You walk out of the hospital completely at ease.”

Hartigan, 65, now returns to Bumrungrad for annual checkups, often leading groups of people from his hometown for various medical procedures. This year, he’s leading a group of 24.

Like Hartigan, a growing number of medical tourists are boarding planes to visit hospitals in Asia that offer highquality treatment at discount prices. Last year, about 1.3 million international visitors flew to Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia, Korea and India for medical treatment.

“Medical tourism is growing rapidly, with the number of medical tourist visits to many countries swelling by 20 to 30 percent a year,” says Brett Henry, the vice president of agency marketing for Abacus International.

That’s healthy news for Asia’s medical centers. Americanaccredited Bumrungrad treated 430,000 foreign patients in 2006 alone, according to Kenneth Mays, the hospital’s marketing director. In 2006, some 410,000 tourists visited Singapore specifically for health care. And most of these patients didn’t travel alone—about 89,000 people accompanied their visits. “Beyond the revenue from providing health-care services, patients and their traveling companions also spend on hotels, transport, dining and, of course, shopping,” says Dr. Jason Yap, director of Healthcare Services for the Singapore Tourism Board.

It’s not just nose jobs, facelifts and tummy tucks that are bringing people to Asia for medical care. Increasingly, patients are arriving for complex heart surgery, cardiovascular and neurosurgical procedures, prostate surgery, hip replacement and other major treatments. And the reasons many people are willing to fly—sometimes thousands of kilometers to a country they’ve never been before—isn’t difficult to diagnose: value for money.

An angioplasty in Thailand or Singapore is about US$13,000, compared to an eye-popping US$57,000 in the United States. A knee replacement in Malaysia is a bargain at US$8,000, compared to US$62,000 in the United States, while a hip replacement is US$65,000 in the United States, OHN

compared to US$16,000 in Thailand. Medical bills are also smaller in this part of the world because more efficient hospitals are able to discharge patients sooner, allowing people to return to work earlier.

“We can often do everything a patient needs in a few days, compared to the weeks it can take for appointments, tests and treatments back in their home country,” says Bumrungrad’s Mays.

While the lure of low cost is a draw for some patients, the assurance of good quality health care is equally important.

“The hospitals and medical institutions catering to the tourist market are among the best in the world,” says Henry, from Abacus International. “In many respects, Asia is an ideal growth environment for medical tourism, with competitively priced, quality health-care services in major tourist cities, and is connected by extensive global travel networks.”

Indeed, cost alone should never be a deciding factor. “We shudder to think how some facilities are marketing medical treatment like they are hawking shampoo. And sadly, there are too many desperate people who might be tempted to put their lives on the line simply due to price,” says Lum Hean Choong, group vice president for marketing and chief market officer of Singapore-based Parkway Health, which operates three Joint Commission International–accredited hospitals. “We believe that the main reason people should travel for cost savings is only when they know that the medical care is reputable.”

According to Josef Woodman, author of Patients Beyond Borders: Everybody’s Guide to Affordable, World-Class Medical »

Medical Advice Josef Woodman, author of Patients Beyond Borders: Everybody’s Guide to Affordable, World-Class Medical Tourism, advises the following when planning a medical trip in Asia:

É

Ensure language and cultural compatibility Singapore is well suited to Americans and Indonesians; Korea caters to Japanese and Russians; and Malaysia attracts patients from the Middle East. Be sure your hospital and surgeon communicate well in your language and check for amenities like special cuisines.

É

Check quality and price Costs of surgeries vary by country and procedure. Always place quality above price. Malaysia, Thailand and

India offer good deals on orthopedics and heart procedures.

Singapore is known for its quality care, although hospitals here are somewhat pricier. South Korea and Taiwan specialize in low-cost, comprehensive health screenings.

É Managing flights Try and book an aisle seat so you have maximum freedom to move around the cabin, or spring for a business-class seat instead of economy.

É

Recover in style Chennai boasts five-star recovery hotels along its beautiful coastline; Kuala Lumpur’s Sunway Hospital is a full-blown resort and health complex; and Thailand has a plethora of wellness spas and relaxing beach resorts.

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Check in, check up With its world-class and luxurious medical facilities at affordable prices, Asia may become as popular for medical tourists as it is for holidaymakers.

By PAUL EHRLICH. Illustrated by WASINEE CHANTAKORN

80

APRI L 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

J

HARTIGAN, A TOUR GUIDE from Killarney, in Ireland, decided to get a checkup at Bangkok’s Bumrungrad International hospital during a 2004 golfing holiday in Thailand. Polyps were discovered and he remained there for treatment. Won over by the high level of medical care, Hartigan returned in December 2005 for hip surgery, which included a 12-day stay for physiotherapy in one the hospital’s adjacent luxury suites.

His reaction was like someone reviewing a resort: “I was over the moon. It would have cost three times as much in Dublin. But it wasn’t the cost alone. The facilities, the treatment and the beautiful surroundings—it’s incredible.

Doctors would take time to explain in simple and clear language, enabling me to understand exactly what was going on. You walk out of the hospital completely at ease.”

Hartigan, 65, now returns to Bumrungrad for annual checkups, often leading groups of people from his hometown for various medical procedures. This year, he’s leading a group of 24.

Like Hartigan, a growing number of medical tourists are boarding planes to visit hospitals in Asia that offer highquality treatment at discount prices. Last year, about 1.3 million international visitors flew to Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia, Korea and India for medical treatment.

“Medical tourism is growing rapidly, with the number of medical tourist visits to many countries swelling by 20 to 30 percent a year,” says Brett Henry, the vice president of agency marketing for Abacus International.

That’s healthy news for Asia’s medical centers. Americanaccredited Bumrungrad treated 430,000 foreign patients in 2006 alone, according to Kenneth Mays, the hospital’s marketing director. In 2006, some 410,000 tourists visited Singapore specifically for health care. And most of these patients didn’t travel alone—about 89,000 people accompanied their visits. “Beyond the revenue from providing health-care services, patients and their traveling companions also spend on hotels, transport, dining and, of course, shopping,” says Dr. Jason Yap, director of Healthcare Services for the Singapore Tourism Board.

It’s not just nose jobs, facelifts and tummy tucks that are bringing people to Asia for medical care. Increasingly, patients are arriving for complex heart surgery, cardiovascular and neurosurgical procedures, prostate surgery, hip replacement and other major treatments. And the reasons many people are willing to fly—sometimes thousands of kilometers to a country they’ve never been before—isn’t difficult to diagnose: value for money.

An angioplasty in Thailand or Singapore is about US$13,000, compared to an eye-popping US$57,000 in the United States. A knee replacement in Malaysia is a bargain at US$8,000, compared to US$62,000 in the United States, while a hip replacement is US$65,000 in the United States, OHN

compared to US$16,000 in Thailand. Medical bills are also smaller in this part of the world because more efficient hospitals are able to discharge patients sooner, allowing people to return to work earlier.

“We can often do everything a patient needs in a few days, compared to the weeks it can take for appointments, tests and treatments back in their home country,” says Bumrungrad’s Mays.

While the lure of low cost is a draw for some patients, the assurance of good quality health care is equally important.

“The hospitals and medical institutions catering to the tourist market are among the best in the world,” says Henry, from Abacus International. “In many respects, Asia is an ideal growth environment for medical tourism, with competitively priced, quality health-care services in major tourist cities, and is connected by extensive global travel networks.”

Indeed, cost alone should never be a deciding factor. “We shudder to think how some facilities are marketing medical treatment like they are hawking shampoo. And sadly, there are too many desperate people who might be tempted to put their lives on the line simply due to price,” says Lum Hean Choong, group vice president for marketing and chief market officer of Singapore-based Parkway Health, which operates three Joint Commission International–accredited hospitals. “We believe that the main reason people should travel for cost savings is only when they know that the medical care is reputable.”

According to Josef Woodman, author of Patients Beyond Borders: Everybody’s Guide to Affordable, World-Class Medical »

Medical Advice Josef Woodman, author of Patients Beyond Borders: Everybody’s Guide to Affordable, World-Class Medical Tourism, advises the following when planning a medical trip in Asia:

É

Ensure language and cultural compatibility Singapore is well suited to Americans and Indonesians; Korea caters to Japanese and Russians; and Malaysia attracts patients from the Middle East. Be sure your hospital and surgeon communicate well in your language and check for amenities like special cuisines.

É

Check quality and price Costs of surgeries vary by country and procedure. Always place quality above price. Malaysia, Thailand and

India offer good deals on orthopedics and heart procedures.

Singapore is known for its quality care, although hospitals here are somewhat pricier. South Korea and Taiwan specialize in low-cost, comprehensive health screenings.

É Managing flights Try and book an aisle seat so you have maximum freedom to move around the cabin, or spring for a business-class seat instead of economy.

É

Recover in style Chennai boasts five-star recovery hotels along its beautiful coastline; Kuala Lumpur’s Sunway Hospital is a full-blown resort and health complex; and Thailand has a plethora of wellness spas and relaxing beach resorts.

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Tourism, Asia can knock 60 to 90 percent off the sticker price of similar surgeries conducted in the United States and Europe. In addition, medical costs in places like Japan and Hong Kong, combined with limited or poor facilities in other Asian countries like Laos, Indonesia, Vietnam and China, are contributing to a burgeoning inter-Asian medical travel industry.

“We get a lot of patients, such as senior government officials, upscale business people and VIP’s from Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Burma,” says Mays, from Bumrungrad.

Consider Tran Thi Tuyet, a 40-year-old Vietnamese mother who lived with excruciating back pains for 15 years.

Some mornings she couldn’t even get on her feet, such was the pain. “The pain would shoot down my legs and I ended up on the floor crawling,” recounts Thi Tuyet, who lives in Vinh Phuc province, about 50 kilometers from Hanoi.

Desperate for a cure, she traveled with her husband to overcrowded and understaffed hospitals and clinics throughout Vietnam. Told she had a debilitating spinal disease, the best the doctors could offer were painkilling injections that only temporarily alleviated the pain.

A sign of hope came late last year. One of her husband’s business partners, returning from Singapore, told how he was expertly treated for stomach cancer. So Thi Tuyet contacted OliveMed, a Singaporebased health-care travel consultancy firm, which links overseas patients to various health-care options in the city. In September 2007, she and her husband flew to Singapore.

OliveMed had taken care of all arrangements, including a translator waiting at Dr. Li Yung Hua’s clinic at Mount Elizabeth Medical Centre.

Patients RAVE about the top-tier treatment, often equating their hospital stays to time spent in a luxury hotel

Thi Tuyet was diagnosed having ankylosing spondylitis, a disease that causes stiffening of the spine. Dr. Li performed a successful seven-hour operation at Parkway’s Mount Elizabeth Hospital. While Thi Tuyet needs continued treatment and medication, her posture is permanently normal, says Dr. Li. “For so long I was in agony 24-7,” said Thi Tuyet. “I expected to come here to find a relief for my pain but what Dr. Li gave me is a new lease of life. I feel like a new person and [not] like a hunchbacked old lady.”

Patients rave about the top-tier treatment they receive, often equating their hospital stays to time spent in a luxury hotel. “I couldn’t believe my first visit,” says Irishman Hartington when describing Bangkok’s Bumrungrad. “It was like checking into a resort.” The five-star style extends to postoperative treatment, which can combine health care with holidays. Analysts see a growing collaboration between medical facilities and the travel industry in developing fullservice packages for clients. Many of the top hospitals work with travel agents, enabling patients to recover at beach resorts or mountain hideaways. Parkway has suites that include a butler and a concierge. Bumrungrad has its own airport lounge to meet and greet patients.

Other deciding factors are location. “A country’s tourism ambience often melds with a hospital’s environment,” says Mays, from Bumrungrad. Travelers enjoying the idea of recovering at an exotic beach might choose Thailand, while Singapore appeals to those preferring an urban environment.

Malaysia, with its Muslim majority, is a favorite destination for patients from Indonesia and the Middle East.

The most recent hospital to join the regional ranks is Prince Court Medical Centre in Kuala Lumpur, which opened in October 2007. The 286-bed private medical facility—with its high-tech modern design and landscaped gardens—looks more like a place to go for a holiday than an operation.

Another trend is the bundling of modern health-care services with alternative treatments. Thailand is promoting its ancient herbal remedies, while India is providing yoga and naturopathy as part of recuperation.

The Wellness Centre at the Apollo Hospital in Chennai offers aromatherapy, Pranic healing, Ayurveda and a nutrition program as part of post-op and recovery.

“Medical travel is often seen as adding medical services to the usual tourist experience,” explains Henry. “As a result, there is an expansion of choices for patients on where they can get their health care. So the stakes are higher for medical travelers; a bad experience can result in long-term scars and suffering. We must not forget that these are patients we are looking after, not just the hale and hearty traveler.”

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GUIDE TO ASIA’S BEST HOSPITALS THAILAND Bumrungrad International 33 Soi 3, Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok; 66-2/667-1000; www. bumrungrad.com.

BNH Hospital A full-service spine center, gastroenterology and liver clinic, and a women’s health clinic. 9/1 Convent Rd., Bangkok; 66-2/686-2700; www. bnhhospital.com.

SINGAPORE Mount Elizabeth Hospital 3 Mount Elizabeth; 65/6737-2666; www.parkwayhealth.com.

Gleneagles Hospital Specializes in cancer and heart treatments.

6A Napier Rd.; 65/6473-7222; www.parkwayhealth.com.

West Clinic Excellence Center Offers screening packages for cancer. 1 Orchard Blvd., 15-00 Camden Medical Centre; 65/6565-6888; www. westexcellence.com.

INDIA Apollo Hospital Best known for orthopedics and cardiology.

21 Greams Lane, Chennai; 9144/2829-3333; www.apollohospitals.com.

MALAYSIA Prince Court Medical Centre Services include lung and heart, oncology, urology, pediatrics and a burns center.

39 Jln. Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur; 60-3/2160-0000.

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Tourism, Asia can knock 60 to 90 percent off the sticker price of similar surgeries conducted in the United States and Europe. In addition, medical costs in places like Japan and Hong Kong, combined with limited or poor facilities in other Asian countries like Laos, Indonesia, Vietnam and China, are contributing to a burgeoning inter-Asian medical travel industry.

“We get a lot of patients, such as senior government officials, upscale business people and VIP’s from Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam and Burma,” says Mays, from Bumrungrad.

Consider Tran Thi Tuyet, a 40-year-old Vietnamese mother who lived with excruciating back pains for 15 years.

Some mornings she couldn’t even get on her feet, such was the pain. “The pain would shoot down my legs and I ended up on the floor crawling,” recounts Thi Tuyet, who lives in Vinh Phuc province, about 50 kilometers from Hanoi.

Desperate for a cure, she traveled with her husband to overcrowded and understaffed hospitals and clinics throughout Vietnam. Told she had a debilitating spinal disease, the best the doctors could offer were painkilling injections that only temporarily alleviated the pain.

A sign of hope came late last year. One of her husband’s business partners, returning from Singapore, told how he was expertly treated for stomach cancer. So Thi Tuyet contacted OliveMed, a Singaporebased health-care travel consultancy firm, which links overseas patients to various health-care options in the city. In September 2007, she and her husband flew to Singapore.

OliveMed had taken care of all arrangements, including a translator waiting at Dr. Li Yung Hua’s clinic at Mount Elizabeth Medical Centre.

Patients RAVE about the top-tier treatment, often equating their hospital stays to time spent in a luxury hotel

Thi Tuyet was diagnosed having ankylosing spondylitis, a disease that causes stiffening of the spine. Dr. Li performed a successful seven-hour operation at Parkway’s Mount Elizabeth Hospital. While Thi Tuyet needs continued treatment and medication, her posture is permanently normal, says Dr. Li. “For so long I was in agony 24-7,” said Thi Tuyet. “I expected to come here to find a relief for my pain but what Dr. Li gave me is a new lease of life. I feel like a new person and [not] like a hunchbacked old lady.”

Patients rave about the top-tier treatment they receive, often equating their hospital stays to time spent in a luxury hotel. “I couldn’t believe my first visit,” says Irishman Hartington when describing Bangkok’s Bumrungrad. “It was like checking into a resort.” The five-star style extends to postoperative treatment, which can combine health care with holidays. Analysts see a growing collaboration between medical facilities and the travel industry in developing fullservice packages for clients. Many of the top hospitals work with travel agents, enabling patients to recover at beach resorts or mountain hideaways. Parkway has suites that include a butler and a concierge. Bumrungrad has its own airport lounge to meet and greet patients.

Other deciding factors are location. “A country’s tourism ambience often melds with a hospital’s environment,” says Mays, from Bumrungrad. Travelers enjoying the idea of recovering at an exotic beach might choose Thailand, while Singapore appeals to those preferring an urban environment.

Malaysia, with its Muslim majority, is a favorite destination for patients from Indonesia and the Middle East.

The most recent hospital to join the regional ranks is Prince Court Medical Centre in Kuala Lumpur, which opened in October 2007. The 286-bed private medical facility—with its high-tech modern design and landscaped gardens—looks more like a place to go for a holiday than an operation.

Another trend is the bundling of modern health-care services with alternative treatments. Thailand is promoting its ancient herbal remedies, while India is providing yoga and naturopathy as part of recuperation.

The Wellness Centre at the Apollo Hospital in Chennai offers aromatherapy, Pranic healing, Ayurveda and a nutrition program as part of post-op and recovery.

“Medical travel is often seen as adding medical services to the usual tourist experience,” explains Henry. “As a result, there is an expansion of choices for patients on where they can get their health care. So the stakes are higher for medical travelers; a bad experience can result in long-term scars and suffering. We must not forget that these are patients we are looking after, not just the hale and hearty traveler.”

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GUIDE TO ASIA’S BEST HOSPITALS THAILAND Bumrungrad International 33 Soi 3, Sukhumvit Rd., Bangkok; 66-2/667-1000; www. bumrungrad.com.

BNH Hospital A full-service spine center, gastroenterology and liver clinic, and a women’s health clinic. 9/1 Convent Rd., Bangkok; 66-2/686-2700; www. bnhhospital.com.

SINGAPORE Mount Elizabeth Hospital 3 Mount Elizabeth; 65/6737-2666; www.parkwayhealth.com.

Gleneagles Hospital Specializes in cancer and heart treatments.

6A Napier Rd.; 65/6473-7222; www.parkwayhealth.com.

West Clinic Excellence Center Offers screening packages for cancer. 1 Orchard Blvd., 15-00 Camden Medical Centre; 65/6565-6888; www. westexcellence.com.

INDIA Apollo Hospital Best known for orthopedics and cardiology.

21 Greams Lane, Chennai; 9144/2829-3333; www.apollohospitals.com.

MALAYSIA Prince Court Medical Centre Services include lung and heart, oncology, urology, pediatrics and a burns center.

39 Jln. Kia Peng, Kuala Lumpur; 60-3/2160-0000.

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USIC HAS ALWAYS BEEN something close to my heart. I was raised on American rock and blues, and a bit of British pop. As a musician in Hong Kong for many years, my interest has always been piqued by anything experimental that pushes boundaries— both sonic and artistic. Unfortunately, Hong Kong has historically been lacking in all of the above. In the past, most mainstream attention has gone to the squeaky clean, music-by-numbers genre known as Cantopop. While a number of challenges exist for local music—namely a shortage of dedicated venues and marginal interest from many club promoters—there’s a lot more to Hong Kong’s music scene than pubescent pop idols. For live music, there are few venues like Grappa’s Cellar. High ceilings, split levels separating the bar and restaurant, and a

Sonic

Boomtown

Musician DAVE WONG visits the places and meets the people that are—at long last— turning the SAR into Asia’s newest City of Sound. Photographed by GRAHAM UDEN

HONG KONG

massive stage set it apart from your typical restaurant or club. I am here to see Paul Lamb & The King Snakes, in town from the U.K., to serve up their brand of harmonicadriven blues-rock.

At around 9 P.M. the lights dim and, as the venue does a smooth quick-change from Italian restaurant to blues bar, the waiters back off and let the artists steal the show. Over the last few years, Rhys Adams, the project, marketing and franchise director at Grappa’s, has been trying to boost the venue’s musical profile by bringing in more international acts. But he’s quick to point out that this isn’t due to any lack of local talent.

“We’ve got some really world-class acts in Hong Kong, who you can probably find playing somewhere in the city every night. We like to bring in three of four of them all at once to put on a big show,” he says. “That way we can drag the crowds down and it provides a better experience as well.

The performers are the real strength of the live music scene.”

Veterans of the jazz-blues scene like pianist Allen Youngblood, Skip Moy and Eugene Pao, one of Asia’s top guitar players, make regular stops at Grappa’s, along with several others you’ll find on its “hall of fame” photomural.

As one of the stronger live scenes in the city, there’s a lot on offer for fans of jazz and blues.

There are daily live performances at Ned Kelly’s Last Stand, a lively saloon named after Australia’s favorite outlaw, where you can catch free live Dixieland jazz every night from 9:30 P.M. to 1 A.M. The bar dishes up Aussie pub grub, while the 20piece Ned Kelly’s Big Band take the stage on the first Sunday of every month.

Over in SoHo, there are a few jazz holes, like the quasi-Bohemian Dinamoe Hum Jazz Bar, where the music is served up alongside food from neighboring restaurants seven nights a week. And there’s the Blue Door Jazz Club, where events are scheduled every Friday and Saturday night, but where impromptu jams can happen at any time.

This isn’t just a club—it is also a restaurant, and a high-end one at that, serving a menu of refined fusion cuisine

OVE IT OR HATE IT, it would be wrong to talk about Hong Kong music without mentioning Cantopop. While it may not be my cup of tea, there are millions in Hong Kong, and around Asia for that matter, who love this sentimental and soppy music genre. However, most are only able to form relationships with their CD’s rather than the artists themselves, and although this music enjoys a high profile in the Asian charts, there’s relatively little on offer in terms of live shows.

The newly opened Backstage Live is hoping to address this. I am here checking out the Raw Show, the venue’s weekly showcase of local musicians that work behind the mainstream Cantopop scene. These aren’t the cookie-cutter superstars—not the pop star/movie actor/models that »

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Music Fest From above: Beijing band, Dreamlike, at the second anniversary of HK Live!; fans of all ages at the Clockenflap Festival; drum and bass duo DP at HK Live!

Opposite: British buzz band Bizali perform at Clockenflap.

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M

USIC HAS ALWAYS BEEN something close to my heart. I was raised on American rock and blues, and a bit of British pop. As a musician in Hong Kong for many years, my interest has always been piqued by anything experimental that pushes boundaries— both sonic and artistic. Unfortunately, Hong Kong has historically been lacking in all of the above. In the past, most mainstream attention has gone to the squeaky clean, music-by-numbers genre known as Cantopop. While a number of challenges exist for local music—namely a shortage of dedicated venues and marginal interest from many club promoters—there’s a lot more to Hong Kong’s music scene than pubescent pop idols. For live music, there are few venues like Grappa’s Cellar. High ceilings, split levels separating the bar and restaurant, and a

Sonic

Boomtown

Musician DAVE WONG visits the places and meets the people that are—at long last— turning the SAR into Asia’s newest City of Sound. Photographed by GRAHAM UDEN

HONG KONG

massive stage set it apart from your typical restaurant or club. I am here to see Paul Lamb & The King Snakes, in town from the U.K., to serve up their brand of harmonicadriven blues-rock.

At around 9 P.M. the lights dim and, as the venue does a smooth quick-change from Italian restaurant to blues bar, the waiters back off and let the artists steal the show. Over the last few years, Rhys Adams, the project, marketing and franchise director at Grappa’s, has been trying to boost the venue’s musical profile by bringing in more international acts. But he’s quick to point out that this isn’t due to any lack of local talent.

“We’ve got some really world-class acts in Hong Kong, who you can probably find playing somewhere in the city every night. We like to bring in three of four of them all at once to put on a big show,” he says. “That way we can drag the crowds down and it provides a better experience as well.

The performers are the real strength of the live music scene.”

Veterans of the jazz-blues scene like pianist Allen Youngblood, Skip Moy and Eugene Pao, one of Asia’s top guitar players, make regular stops at Grappa’s, along with several others you’ll find on its “hall of fame” photomural.

As one of the stronger live scenes in the city, there’s a lot on offer for fans of jazz and blues.

There are daily live performances at Ned Kelly’s Last Stand, a lively saloon named after Australia’s favorite outlaw, where you can catch free live Dixieland jazz every night from 9:30 P.M. to 1 A.M. The bar dishes up Aussie pub grub, while the 20piece Ned Kelly’s Big Band take the stage on the first Sunday of every month.

Over in SoHo, there are a few jazz holes, like the quasi-Bohemian Dinamoe Hum Jazz Bar, where the music is served up alongside food from neighboring restaurants seven nights a week. And there’s the Blue Door Jazz Club, where events are scheduled every Friday and Saturday night, but where impromptu jams can happen at any time.

This isn’t just a club—it is also a restaurant, and a high-end one at that, serving a menu of refined fusion cuisine

OVE IT OR HATE IT, it would be wrong to talk about Hong Kong music without mentioning Cantopop. While it may not be my cup of tea, there are millions in Hong Kong, and around Asia for that matter, who love this sentimental and soppy music genre. However, most are only able to form relationships with their CD’s rather than the artists themselves, and although this music enjoys a high profile in the Asian charts, there’s relatively little on offer in terms of live shows.

The newly opened Backstage Live is hoping to address this. I am here checking out the Raw Show, the venue’s weekly showcase of local musicians that work behind the mainstream Cantopop scene. These aren’t the cookie-cutter superstars—not the pop star/movie actor/models that »

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Music Fest From above: Beijing band, Dreamlike, at the second anniversary of HK Live!; fans of all ages at the Clockenflap Festival; drum and bass duo DP at HK Live!

Opposite: British buzz band Bizali perform at Clockenflap.

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dominate mainstream media. These are the songwriters, musicians and producers that work behind the scenes.

Tonight, it’s songwriter Edmond Tsang performing with vocalists Chi and Phoenix. Accompanied by Tsang’s mellow piano, the vocalists meander through a set of soft, passionate ballads—prime examples of the kind of gentle love songs that Cantopop has become known for—but with an emphasis on the musical performance rather than the glitz and glamour.

As part of the audience, one of the first things you’ll notice is the way the venue is designed to put all eyes on the performers, with tables and chairs angled towards the stage.

Another obvious factor is that this isn’t just a club—it is also a restaurant, and a high-end one at that, serving a menu of refined fusion cuisine. The ambience lies somewhere in between, with a small stage and darkened lighting generating a cozy club feel, while grandiose leather couches and giant mirrors lend a sense of nouveau European restaurant chic.

While major Cantopop artists and groups can bring their performances to big venues that seat thousands, such as the Hong Kong Coliseum, the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre or, more recently, the massive AsiaWorldExpo, the people behind Backstage Live believe that’s not necessarily what all music fans are looking for.

“There are many music lovers out there who also enjoy small-scale shows, where the performers and the audience can have interactive close encounters with the kind of

In Tune Clockwise from left: Singer Chi at the Cantopop Raw Show at Backstage Live; the author performs at HK Live!; U.K. band Bizali in full swing at the Clockenflap Festival.

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personal touch that’s rarely found in a large-scale concert,” says Vicky Fung, a well-known Cantopop songwriter and one of the artists behind the setup of Backstage Live. “Quite often, these small performances also give room for other genres of music that major media don’t put great emphasis on.”

HE FRINGE CLUB HAS long been an important part of the local arts scene, promoting everything from visual art and photography to dramatic performances. Music, however, has always been the club’s biggest draw, transcending visitations from just those in the art community to a wider audience comprising music fans, those looking for something a little different from the usual bar scene, or simply those looking for a rowdy night out.

For the last two years, the club has hosted HK Live!, a monthly event organized and promoted by HK Magazine.

Marketing manager Clare Morin is the brains behind the operation that created HK Live!, and drew on her past experience working alongside bands to fill a hole she saw in Hong Kong’s music culture. “I was aware of this bubbling undercurrent of talent that no one was hearing, or hearing about,” she says. As a result, HK Live! puts a handful of bands together on the same night each month, with the aim of promoting the best new talent on the band scene.

To date HK Live! has mostly put emphasis on rock bands, but it has been host to everything under the musical sun,

T

Rock On Left and above: The Clockenflap Festival draws international acts and legions of music fans. Below: Paul Lamb & The King Snakes perform at Grappa’s Cellar.

from teenybopper pop band Soler and Britpop’s The Yours to the downright unexpected, like the all-female alt-country band, Shotgun She-ras. This month’s show is particularly significant for this writer, as my band, DP, is on the bill.

We’re playing alongside Dreamlike, a Beijing-based emo band, and Hardpack, Hong Kong’s favorite punk rockers.

It’s always impressive to see the enthusiastic turnout at HK Live!, and this night is no different. The large crowds, both inside at the bar and spilling outside the club, are a diverse mix of trendy teens, fashionable nightlifers and middle-aged musos. The buzz captures that rare sense of an authentic rock joint that you might find in New York or London, and there’s a palpable excitement and anticipation to see what these new bands are all about.

“The audience is quite bizarre. There are some people who come each month, but mostly you see completely new faces every time,” says Morin. “The bands themselves bring in a lot of their own fans and you get a lot of people attracted by different styles of music. So you’ll get a certain audience who are there for electronic music, another audience for a heavy metal band.”

It was earlier this year, however, that efforts to push local indie bands into the spotlight went to the next level. Held in January at the futuristic setting of Cyberport, the first-ever Clockenflap Multimedia Arts & Music Festival marked what many hope will be a catalyst for the future of Hong Kong’s music culture. Pulling in a crowd of around a thousand, the full-day event featured a mix of both local and international acts, including homegrown players like Clementine is My Sunshine and The Lovesong as well as U.K. buzz bands Bizali and The Young Knives.

“It was great to see so many people sitting out on the grass enjoying a day of live music,” says Morin. “The enthusiasm of the bands and the excitement in the crowd really make you feel like finally, Hong Kong is putting itself on the musical map.”

GUIDE TO HONG KONG’S MUSIC SCENE Backstage Live 1st floor, Somptueux Central, 52–54 Wellington St.; 852/21678985; Cantopop, indie and occasional jazz.

Blue Door Jazz Club 5th floor, 37 Cochrane St., Central; 852/2858-6555; soulful jazz.

Cattle Depot Artist Village Housed in a former slaughterhouse. Its stables are now galleries, studios and stages. 63 Mat Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan; 852/2529-0087; indie and experimental.

Dinamoe Hum Jazz Bar 1st floor, 28 Elgin St., SoHo; 852/9197-7312; nightly jazz.

Gecko A classy bohemian vibe where musicians stand elbowto-elbow with neo-beatniks.

Lower ground floor, Ezra Lane, Lower Hollywood Rd.; 852/2537-4680; jazz.

Grappa’s Cellar Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central; 852/2521-2322; jazz and blues.

Joyce Is Not Here Weekly jam

nights and a featured musician every Friday. 38–44 Peel St., Central; 852/2851-2999; acoustic and jazz.

Kubrick-bc Weekly shows feature breaking Cantopop musicians. H2 Prosperous Garden, 3 Public Square St., Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon; 852/23848929; indie rock and Cantopop.

Ned Kelly’s Last Stand 11A Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; 852/2376-0562; Dixieland jazz, big band and blues.

The Cavern The house cover band plays everything from The Beatles to Green Day. Lower ground floor, Lan Kwai Fong Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central; pop-rock.

The Fringe Club 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central; 852/ 2521-7251; rock.

The Wanch Young rockers cut their teeth on stage, old rockers prop up the bar. 54 Jaffe Rd., Wanchai; 852/ 2861-1621; rock and blues.

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dominate mainstream media. These are the songwriters, musicians and producers that work behind the scenes.

Tonight, it’s songwriter Edmond Tsang performing with vocalists Chi and Phoenix. Accompanied by Tsang’s mellow piano, the vocalists meander through a set of soft, passionate ballads—prime examples of the kind of gentle love songs that Cantopop has become known for—but with an emphasis on the musical performance rather than the glitz and glamour.

As part of the audience, one of the first things you’ll notice is the way the venue is designed to put all eyes on the performers, with tables and chairs angled towards the stage.

Another obvious factor is that this isn’t just a club—it is also a restaurant, and a high-end one at that, serving a menu of refined fusion cuisine. The ambience lies somewhere in between, with a small stage and darkened lighting generating a cozy club feel, while grandiose leather couches and giant mirrors lend a sense of nouveau European restaurant chic.

While major Cantopop artists and groups can bring their performances to big venues that seat thousands, such as the Hong Kong Coliseum, the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre or, more recently, the massive AsiaWorldExpo, the people behind Backstage Live believe that’s not necessarily what all music fans are looking for.

“There are many music lovers out there who also enjoy small-scale shows, where the performers and the audience can have interactive close encounters with the kind of

In Tune Clockwise from left: Singer Chi at the Cantopop Raw Show at Backstage Live; the author performs at HK Live!; U.K. band Bizali in full swing at the Clockenflap Festival.

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personal touch that’s rarely found in a large-scale concert,” says Vicky Fung, a well-known Cantopop songwriter and one of the artists behind the setup of Backstage Live. “Quite often, these small performances also give room for other genres of music that major media don’t put great emphasis on.”

HE FRINGE CLUB HAS long been an important part of the local arts scene, promoting everything from visual art and photography to dramatic performances. Music, however, has always been the club’s biggest draw, transcending visitations from just those in the art community to a wider audience comprising music fans, those looking for something a little different from the usual bar scene, or simply those looking for a rowdy night out.

For the last two years, the club has hosted HK Live!, a monthly event organized and promoted by HK Magazine.

Marketing manager Clare Morin is the brains behind the operation that created HK Live!, and drew on her past experience working alongside bands to fill a hole she saw in Hong Kong’s music culture. “I was aware of this bubbling undercurrent of talent that no one was hearing, or hearing about,” she says. As a result, HK Live! puts a handful of bands together on the same night each month, with the aim of promoting the best new talent on the band scene.

To date HK Live! has mostly put emphasis on rock bands, but it has been host to everything under the musical sun,

T

Rock On Left and above: The Clockenflap Festival draws international acts and legions of music fans. Below: Paul Lamb & The King Snakes perform at Grappa’s Cellar.

from teenybopper pop band Soler and Britpop’s The Yours to the downright unexpected, like the all-female alt-country band, Shotgun She-ras. This month’s show is particularly significant for this writer, as my band, DP, is on the bill.

We’re playing alongside Dreamlike, a Beijing-based emo band, and Hardpack, Hong Kong’s favorite punk rockers.

It’s always impressive to see the enthusiastic turnout at HK Live!, and this night is no different. The large crowds, both inside at the bar and spilling outside the club, are a diverse mix of trendy teens, fashionable nightlifers and middle-aged musos. The buzz captures that rare sense of an authentic rock joint that you might find in New York or London, and there’s a palpable excitement and anticipation to see what these new bands are all about.

“The audience is quite bizarre. There are some people who come each month, but mostly you see completely new faces every time,” says Morin. “The bands themselves bring in a lot of their own fans and you get a lot of people attracted by different styles of music. So you’ll get a certain audience who are there for electronic music, another audience for a heavy metal band.”

It was earlier this year, however, that efforts to push local indie bands into the spotlight went to the next level. Held in January at the futuristic setting of Cyberport, the first-ever Clockenflap Multimedia Arts & Music Festival marked what many hope will be a catalyst for the future of Hong Kong’s music culture. Pulling in a crowd of around a thousand, the full-day event featured a mix of both local and international acts, including homegrown players like Clementine is My Sunshine and The Lovesong as well as U.K. buzz bands Bizali and The Young Knives.

“It was great to see so many people sitting out on the grass enjoying a day of live music,” says Morin. “The enthusiasm of the bands and the excitement in the crowd really make you feel like finally, Hong Kong is putting itself on the musical map.”

GUIDE TO HONG KONG’S MUSIC SCENE Backstage Live 1st floor, Somptueux Central, 52–54 Wellington St.; 852/21678985; Cantopop, indie and occasional jazz.

Blue Door Jazz Club 5th floor, 37 Cochrane St., Central; 852/2858-6555; soulful jazz.

Cattle Depot Artist Village Housed in a former slaughterhouse. Its stables are now galleries, studios and stages. 63 Mat Tau Kok Rd., To Kwa Wan; 852/2529-0087; indie and experimental.

Dinamoe Hum Jazz Bar 1st floor, 28 Elgin St., SoHo; 852/9197-7312; nightly jazz.

Gecko A classy bohemian vibe where musicians stand elbowto-elbow with neo-beatniks.

Lower ground floor, Ezra Lane, Lower Hollywood Rd.; 852/2537-4680; jazz.

Grappa’s Cellar Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central; 852/2521-2322; jazz and blues.

Joyce Is Not Here Weekly jam

nights and a featured musician every Friday. 38–44 Peel St., Central; 852/2851-2999; acoustic and jazz.

Kubrick-bc Weekly shows feature breaking Cantopop musicians. H2 Prosperous Garden, 3 Public Square St., Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon; 852/23848929; indie rock and Cantopop.

Ned Kelly’s Last Stand 11A Ashley Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui; 852/2376-0562; Dixieland jazz, big band and blues.

The Cavern The house cover band plays everything from The Beatles to Green Day. Lower ground floor, Lan Kwai Fong Tower, 33 Wyndham St., Central; pop-rock.

The Fringe Club 2 Lower Albert Rd., Central; 852/ 2521-7251; rock.

The Wanch Young rockers cut their teeth on stage, old rockers prop up the bar. 54 Jaffe Rd., Wanchai; 852/ 2861-1621; rock and blues.

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Getting There First

in 1786, it caused a sensation throughout Europe; it is widely regarded as the founding moment of modern alpinism.

First river descents, on the other hand, are a more recent spinoff. Only after World War II, with the widespread availability of reliable rubber boats, was the sport of whitewater rafting able to develop as an adventurous pastime.

Though the first big rivers were conquered in the 1970’s, the sport’s heyday of conquests continues. Tibet’s Upper Tsangpo Gorge, a churning cauldron of white water dubbed “the Everest of Rivers,” was only checked off the list in 2002.

It wasn’t until 1996 that Alpine Ascents International, the Seattle-based climbing company that has maneuvered more clients to the top of Everest than anyone else, began helping clients up unconquered peaks. (Though people can submit their first ascents to the American Alpine Journal, there is no formal accounting of such climbs.) The company performs most of its first ascents in eastern Greenland, where countless unnamed peaks loom over glaciers. Crucially, the

Some travel for fun, some to feed the soul.

Others are in it for the immortality.

JEFF WISE reports. Illustrated by R. O. BLECHMAN

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achieving a First be marketed as a way for the well-heeled to set themselves apart. The result: commercial first ascents of mountains and descents of rivers—trips on which a professional guide can help a customer be part of the first group up or down an as-yet-unconquered piece of geography. And with an ever-expanding market for a fixed number of untrodden areas, anyone hoping to lay claim to a First had better move fast.

People have been taking note of first ascents for centuries.

When Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard climbed Mont Blanc, which straddles France, Italy and Switzerland,

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NCLIMBED MOUNTAINS

are an endangered species. Before 1950, none of the world’s 15 highest mountains had been climbed. That year, French alpinists Louis Lachenal and Maurice Herzog scaled the 10th highest, Nepal’s Annapurna I, and within the next 10 years most of the remaining 14 highest had been checked off the list.

Today, the highest peak left is No. 36, the 7,570-meter Gangkhar Puensum—which has yet to be climbed only because it’s in Bhutan, a country that has banned climbing of mountains higher than 6,000 meters.

Another vanishing breed: un-run rivers. In the past four decades, many of the world’s great rivers have been rafted or kayaked in their entirety for the first time, including the Ganges, the Zambezi, the Amazon, the Mekong and the Nile.

Accomplished climbers say that their Firsts represent a high point in their lives. Legendary climber and adventure writer David Roberts, who has logged an estimated 40 first ascents, was only 20 years old when he pioneered a challenging new route up Denali. “I said, ‘My God, nobody’s ever been here before,” Roberts writes. “I’m the first person ever to put a crampon on that snowfield.’ You can’t sell that kind of excitement.” Which is to say, of course you can. In an age when exotic travel is increasingly commodified, when remote adventure has become a brand of luxury experience, it’s only natural that the prospect of

1969 The launch of Mountain Travel.

The company’s first trip is a trek through the Everest and Annapurna regions of Nepal.

1973 Richard Bangs (second from right) founds Sobek Expeditions, which begins with a first descent down the Awash River in Ethiopia.

1986 Todd Burleson founds Alpine Ascents International, which becomes well known for Himalayan trips.

peaks are not all that difficult to climb, just hard to get to. In fact, the company has mastered the art of turning type-A corporate characters into semi-competent mountaineers at its crash-course school in the Cascade Mountains of Washington. For around US$1,000, a moderately fit client can “do a six-day school and fly out the next week,” says Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents’ director of programs.

Of course, cresting a virgin mountain is never a walk in the park. “It’s very easy to romanticize mountaineering, as compared with actually doing it. Sleeping out at minus 20 day after day, going to bed cold, and waking up in the cold loses its romance,” says the company’s founder, Todd Burleson. For the price tag, he says, “there are a lot of people in the world who would rather buy a new car.”

Or maybe float down an un-run stretch of river. Mountain Travel Sobek has conducted about three dozen first descents.

Unlike ascents of mountains, many river trips require no prior training. If passengers are particularly incompetent, they can be carried along as, essentially, animate cargo. »

1991 Mountain Travel and Sobek Expeditions merge. Today the company offers over 150 trips to all seven continents.

1996 Alpine Ascents offers its pioneer “first climb” trip to unnamed peaks, in Greenland’s Gunnbjørn Fjeld region.

2007 The three highest unclimbed mountains are believed to be Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan, Saser Kangri II East in Kashmir, and Labuche Kang III East in Tibet.

G R E AT F I R S T S I N A DV E N T U R E T R AV E L H I S TO R Y T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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t+l journal | adventure

Getting There First

in 1786, it caused a sensation throughout Europe; it is widely regarded as the founding moment of modern alpinism.

First river descents, on the other hand, are a more recent spinoff. Only after World War II, with the widespread availability of reliable rubber boats, was the sport of whitewater rafting able to develop as an adventurous pastime.

Though the first big rivers were conquered in the 1970’s, the sport’s heyday of conquests continues. Tibet’s Upper Tsangpo Gorge, a churning cauldron of white water dubbed “the Everest of Rivers,” was only checked off the list in 2002.

It wasn’t until 1996 that Alpine Ascents International, the Seattle-based climbing company that has maneuvered more clients to the top of Everest than anyone else, began helping clients up unconquered peaks. (Though people can submit their first ascents to the American Alpine Journal, there is no formal accounting of such climbs.) The company performs most of its first ascents in eastern Greenland, where countless unnamed peaks loom over glaciers. Crucially, the

Some travel for fun, some to feed the soul.

Others are in it for the immortality.

JEFF WISE reports. Illustrated by R. O. BLECHMAN

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achieving a First be marketed as a way for the well-heeled to set themselves apart. The result: commercial first ascents of mountains and descents of rivers—trips on which a professional guide can help a customer be part of the first group up or down an as-yet-unconquered piece of geography. And with an ever-expanding market for a fixed number of untrodden areas, anyone hoping to lay claim to a First had better move fast.

People have been taking note of first ascents for centuries.

When Jacques Balmat and Michel-Gabriel Paccard climbed Mont Blanc, which straddles France, Italy and Switzerland,

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NCLIMBED MOUNTAINS

are an endangered species. Before 1950, none of the world’s 15 highest mountains had been climbed. That year, French alpinists Louis Lachenal and Maurice Herzog scaled the 10th highest, Nepal’s Annapurna I, and within the next 10 years most of the remaining 14 highest had been checked off the list.

Today, the highest peak left is No. 36, the 7,570-meter Gangkhar Puensum—which has yet to be climbed only because it’s in Bhutan, a country that has banned climbing of mountains higher than 6,000 meters.

Another vanishing breed: un-run rivers. In the past four decades, many of the world’s great rivers have been rafted or kayaked in their entirety for the first time, including the Ganges, the Zambezi, the Amazon, the Mekong and the Nile.

Accomplished climbers say that their Firsts represent a high point in their lives. Legendary climber and adventure writer David Roberts, who has logged an estimated 40 first ascents, was only 20 years old when he pioneered a challenging new route up Denali. “I said, ‘My God, nobody’s ever been here before,” Roberts writes. “I’m the first person ever to put a crampon on that snowfield.’ You can’t sell that kind of excitement.” Which is to say, of course you can. In an age when exotic travel is increasingly commodified, when remote adventure has become a brand of luxury experience, it’s only natural that the prospect of

1969 The launch of Mountain Travel.

The company’s first trip is a trek through the Everest and Annapurna regions of Nepal.

1973 Richard Bangs (second from right) founds Sobek Expeditions, which begins with a first descent down the Awash River in Ethiopia.

1986 Todd Burleson founds Alpine Ascents International, which becomes well known for Himalayan trips.

peaks are not all that difficult to climb, just hard to get to. In fact, the company has mastered the art of turning type-A corporate characters into semi-competent mountaineers at its crash-course school in the Cascade Mountains of Washington. For around US$1,000, a moderately fit client can “do a six-day school and fly out the next week,” says Gordon Janow, Alpine Ascents’ director of programs.

Of course, cresting a virgin mountain is never a walk in the park. “It’s very easy to romanticize mountaineering, as compared with actually doing it. Sleeping out at minus 20 day after day, going to bed cold, and waking up in the cold loses its romance,” says the company’s founder, Todd Burleson. For the price tag, he says, “there are a lot of people in the world who would rather buy a new car.”

Or maybe float down an un-run stretch of river. Mountain Travel Sobek has conducted about three dozen first descents.

Unlike ascents of mountains, many river trips require no prior training. If passengers are particularly incompetent, they can be carried along as, essentially, animate cargo. »

1991 Mountain Travel and Sobek Expeditions merge. Today the company offers over 150 trips to all seven continents.

1996 Alpine Ascents offers its pioneer “first climb” trip to unnamed peaks, in Greenland’s Gunnbjørn Fjeld region.

2007 The three highest unclimbed mountains are believed to be Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan, Saser Kangri II East in Kashmir, and Labuche Kang III East in Tibet.

G R E AT F I R S T S I N A DV E N T U R E T R AV E L H I S TO R Y T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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t+l journal | adventure In March 2007, the company made the first commercial descent of the Upper Mekong River in China, a 15-day trip that wound past remote villages and through several Class Four rapids. Harold Newman Jr., who was on the Upper Mekong trip, says it wasn’t that hard. “This was not a wilderness trip,” he says. “The river goes down through a lightly inhabited narrow canyon valley, with a village about every three to five miles. Nothing on the water was that challenging.”

But like first ascents, first descents inherently carry a degree of uncertainty and risk. When Sobek organized the first descent of the Boh River in Indonesia in the late 1980’s, the journey was so fraught with peril that one of the passengers, Tracy Johnston, wrote a book, Shooting the Boh, which recounts food shortages, raft flippings, irritating insects and backbreaking portages. She wrote that after the trip one of her fellow passengers said, “his lawyer friends had all called him a fool for not suing Sobek.”

Mountain Travel Sobek’s cofounder, Richard Bangs, acknowledges that the excursion had its problems, but says hardship is part of the game. “Usually there are a lot of unknowns, and anxiety and tension” on a first descent, he says. “It’s all about celebrating chaos.”

Through dozens of books and innumerable multimedia ventures, Bangs has done more than anyone else to promote the idea of first river descents. He points out that, in an age in which our notions of foreign places are thoroughly influenced by all the TV shows and movies and magazine articles from those who have gone before us, a First allows us to experience an as-yet-unmediated part of the earth. “The greatest joy of a first descent is when you are overwhelmed,” he says. “It’s your own private experience. There are so few of those around.”

So few—and ever fewer. They’re not making any new rivers or mountains. Competition to pioneer new climbing

routes has become so intense, says adventure writer Roberts, that it’s ruined the spirit of camaraderie that once infused the sport. “The natural challenges are gone,” he says. “It’s all about fighting over what’s left.” Some climbing guidebooks don’t even list first ascents anymore.

And yet, so long as untrodden routes remain, there will be souls who yearn to prove themselves there.

The same impulse to demonstrate our uniqueness has spread beyond simple peaks and rivers. Luxury adventuretour operators report that more and more clients are looking for achievements that they can call their own. “They want to do things that no one has ever done,” says Bill Bryan, cofounder of Off the Beaten Path, an adventure operator specializing in custom travel in the American West and Patagonia. One, a 58-year-old New Yorker, asked Bryan to put together a 1,126-kilometer horse trek across the length of Montana. The trip took a year to organize and two months to complete. “He’d done trips all over the world, and he wanted to do something special,” Bryan says.

Being a First doesn’t have to be about trumping the competition. It doesn’t even have to be about putting your footprint on untrodden ground. At its best, it’s simply a state of mind.

“Maybe there are places that other people have been to a thousand times, a million times—a dilapidated mosque, say, in the middle of India,” says Alpine Ascents’ Janow.

“But it’s early in the morning and you’re the first one there, and as you walk in, you have that feeling of ‘Wow!’ It’s the same as when you climb a mountain that hasn’t been climbed before. When you’re a traveler, there’s something thrilling about re-creating that virgin experience, of being the first one there. Even if it’s only being the first one there that morning.” ✚

Only after WORLD WAR II was the sport of white-water rafting able to develop as an adventurous pastime

Jeff Wise is a T+L contributing editor.

GUIDE TO ADVENTURE TRAVEL FIRSTS These outfitters offer upcoming First trips.

ALPINE ASCENTS INTERNATIONAL Trips to northeast India and Greenland. 121 Mercer St. Seattle; 1-206/378-1927; www.alpineascents.com; trips from US$6,000.

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BIO BIO EXPEDITIONS A first descent of the Drangme Chhu River in Bhutan. P.O. Box 2028, Truckee, California; 1800/246-7238; www.bbxrafting. com; trips from US$4,000.

EXPLORERS’ CORNER Horse-trekking expedition to the source of the Mekong River in

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Tibet. 1865 Solano Ave., Berkeley, California; 1-510/559-8099; www. explorerscorner.com; trips from US$4,090.

MOUNTAIN TRAVEL SOBEK Expeditions to the Kham region of Tibet and a wildlife expedition in Gabon. 1266 66th St., Emeryville, California; 1-888/687-

6235; www.mtsobek.com; trips from US$5,695.

SOUTHWEST ADVENTURE GUIDES Ascents in Alaska’s Wrangell–St. Elias National Park. 1205 Camino del Rio, Durango, Colorado; 1800/642-5389; www.swaguides. com; trips from US$3,750.

driving | t+l journal

Riding High In a remote region rarely visited by foreign tourists, NEWLEY PURNELL takes to the road on a Soviet-era Minsk motorbike, rumbling through remarkable rural landscapes, limestone karst outcrops and dusty villages Climbing the Ma Phuc pass, north of Cao Bang town. Top: A Minsk motorbike.

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Hanoi to That Khe (180 kilometers)

Greenhalgh and I set off into Hanoi’s notoriously chaotic traffic at 7:30 A.M. Chilly winter air rushes through my helmet, but soon I’m warmed by the strengthening sun. Even at this early hour, the city is choked with cars, motorbikes, trucks, pedestrians and food vendors. Horns bleat incessantly and women in conical hats plod along the streets carrying wicker baskets on their shoulders. There are no traffic lanes or lights and everything—human and machine—merges, swerves, stops, starts, accelerates. There are no collisions, but innumerable close calls.

An hour outside of Hanoi, the expressway turns into a two-lane road.

rural oddities. We pass a Traffic thins and expanses of man driving a motorbike countryside unfold around us. with a long spit of roasted My Minsk is running well, and LOCAL I’m becoming accustomed to its SIGN LANGUAGE pigs strapped to the back, Watch out for the animals’ skin crispy and quirks. The indicators, for stray rocks on their eye sockets gaping. example, only seem to work in the road.

Then we see a squirming fits and starts, and my calf lashed to the back of a motorbike speedometer appears to have died. We stop at a roadside café for viscous black trundling down the highway.

At the end of the first day’s ride my coffee and slices of pear. We’re entering body aches. The last 7 kilometers have a region of the heartland, Greenhalgh been particularly rough, the rutted dirt tells me, where Ho Chi Minh first assembled his army, waging war first on track rattling my back and shoulders. the French and then on the Americans. My lips are painfully dry, but I’m still exhilarated by the ride. We arrive at a Later in the day, limestone karsts crumbling hotel in the old French begin to pop up all around us—these fortified town of That Khe—a dull dramatic brown and black jagged hills place of anonymous and worn form a sort of inland version of concrete buildings. The sun is setting Halong Bay. We’re far from Hanoi and everything glows red. We eat fried now, and I begin to catch glimpses of spring rolls, green beans and boiled potatoes for dinner, and a group of young Vietnamese men playing pool in a tiny hall across the street from our hotel invite us to join them. They toast us with numerous glasses of vodka and invite us to sample a handmade bamboo water pipe.

DAY 2

TO P : N EW L EY P U R N E L L . BOT TO M : CO U RT ESY O F E X P LO R E I N D O C H I N A ( 2 )

That Khe to Cao Bang (70 kilometers)

C O U R T E SY O F E X P L O R E I N D O C H I N A ; M A P BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N

Undulating valleys, limestone karsts and dramatically steep passes mark the journey northeast from That Khe to the provincial capital of Cao Bang.

F YOU HIT SOMETHING going just 35 kilometers an hour, you’re in with half a chance. We won’t have to wash you off the road.” That’s Digby Greenhalgh, my motorbike guide, giving me some sensible pre-ride advice. We’re getting our gear together before setting off on a tour of Vietnam’s rugged northeast. I try on my padded blue jacket, gray helmet and reinforced gloves. Everything fits.

I’m ready. Or at least I think I am.

Greenhalgh is a 38-year-old Australian who’s lived in Hanoi for the last 12 years—at least three of which, he reckons, he’s spent on the road. He runs a Hanoi-based tour company that guides visitors through rarely visited parts of north Vietnam on enigmatic Soviet-era Minsk motorbikes.

Minsks are manufactured in their namesake city, the capital of Belarus.

They were introduced to Southeast Asia during the days of collaboration between the USSR and Vietnam, and their bulky design has remained largely unchanged ever since. “The Minsk is all you need here,” Greenhalgh says.

“Conditions dictate that you go slow.”

Locals call these utilitarian bikes “buffalo” for their bovine attributes: obedient (mostly), occasionally ornery and cheap to maintain. While urbanites in other parts of the country opt for shiny new Hondas and Yamahas, the two-stroke Minsk is the economical workhorse for Vietnam’s rural people.

We’ll start our six-day, 600-kilometer adventure heading northeast from Hanoi to the dusty town of That Khe, set among jagged limestone karsts near the Chinese border. Then we’ll head northwest through undulating valleys and steep passes to the provincial capital of Cao Bang. From there, we’ll head west to Ba Be National Park and wrap up the trip rumbling southeast back to Hanoi. This is a region of Vietnam that is rarely visited and seeing it up close on a motorbike will offer remarkable glimpses of a remote corner of the country.

The town springs to life below our hotel window at 5 A.M. People yell to one another and trucks rumble by. We get up, thickheaded from the last night’s vodka splurge and frigid from the lack of heat in our room, so we cross the street in search of breakfast.

An old woman, her face deeply wrinkled, sells us rice pancakes with minced meat. Thick steam rises from her grill in the cool of the morning.

Soon we are back on the road.

At noon, we arrive at a truck stop overlooking a rich, verdant valley.

Three boys approach us on bicycles to inspect our Minsks and eye us curiously.

We’re traveling on Highway 4, which »

Town and Country Clockwise from top: Chaotic Hanoi traffic; Ban Gioc waterfall in Cao Bang province; riding through Cao Bang.

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Hanoi to That Khe (180 kilometers)

Greenhalgh and I set off into Hanoi’s notoriously chaotic traffic at 7:30 A.M. Chilly winter air rushes through my helmet, but soon I’m warmed by the strengthening sun. Even at this early hour, the city is choked with cars, motorbikes, trucks, pedestrians and food vendors. Horns bleat incessantly and women in conical hats plod along the streets carrying wicker baskets on their shoulders. There are no traffic lanes or lights and everything—human and machine—merges, swerves, stops, starts, accelerates. There are no collisions, but innumerable close calls.

An hour outside of Hanoi, the expressway turns into a two-lane road.

rural oddities. We pass a Traffic thins and expanses of man driving a motorbike countryside unfold around us. with a long spit of roasted My Minsk is running well, and LOCAL I’m becoming accustomed to its SIGN LANGUAGE pigs strapped to the back, Watch out for the animals’ skin crispy and quirks. The indicators, for stray rocks on their eye sockets gaping. example, only seem to work in the road.

Then we see a squirming fits and starts, and my calf lashed to the back of a motorbike speedometer appears to have died. We stop at a roadside café for viscous black trundling down the highway.

At the end of the first day’s ride my coffee and slices of pear. We’re entering body aches. The last 7 kilometers have a region of the heartland, Greenhalgh been particularly rough, the rutted dirt tells me, where Ho Chi Minh first assembled his army, waging war first on track rattling my back and shoulders. the French and then on the Americans. My lips are painfully dry, but I’m still exhilarated by the ride. We arrive at a Later in the day, limestone karsts crumbling hotel in the old French begin to pop up all around us—these fortified town of That Khe—a dull dramatic brown and black jagged hills place of anonymous and worn form a sort of inland version of concrete buildings. The sun is setting Halong Bay. We’re far from Hanoi and everything glows red. We eat fried now, and I begin to catch glimpses of spring rolls, green beans and boiled potatoes for dinner, and a group of young Vietnamese men playing pool in a tiny hall across the street from our hotel invite us to join them. They toast us with numerous glasses of vodka and invite us to sample a handmade bamboo water pipe.

DAY 2

TO P : N EW L EY P U R N E L L . BOT TO M : CO U RT ESY O F E X P LO R E I N D O C H I N A ( 2 )

That Khe to Cao Bang (70 kilometers)

C O U R T E SY O F E X P L O R E I N D O C H I N A ; M A P BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N

Undulating valleys, limestone karsts and dramatically steep passes mark the journey northeast from That Khe to the provincial capital of Cao Bang.

F YOU HIT SOMETHING going just 35 kilometers an hour, you’re in with half a chance. We won’t have to wash you off the road.” That’s Digby Greenhalgh, my motorbike guide, giving me some sensible pre-ride advice. We’re getting our gear together before setting off on a tour of Vietnam’s rugged northeast. I try on my padded blue jacket, gray helmet and reinforced gloves. Everything fits.

I’m ready. Or at least I think I am.

Greenhalgh is a 38-year-old Australian who’s lived in Hanoi for the last 12 years—at least three of which, he reckons, he’s spent on the road. He runs a Hanoi-based tour company that guides visitors through rarely visited parts of north Vietnam on enigmatic Soviet-era Minsk motorbikes.

Minsks are manufactured in their namesake city, the capital of Belarus.

They were introduced to Southeast Asia during the days of collaboration between the USSR and Vietnam, and their bulky design has remained largely unchanged ever since. “The Minsk is all you need here,” Greenhalgh says.

“Conditions dictate that you go slow.”

Locals call these utilitarian bikes “buffalo” for their bovine attributes: obedient (mostly), occasionally ornery and cheap to maintain. While urbanites in other parts of the country opt for shiny new Hondas and Yamahas, the two-stroke Minsk is the economical workhorse for Vietnam’s rural people.

We’ll start our six-day, 600-kilometer adventure heading northeast from Hanoi to the dusty town of That Khe, set among jagged limestone karsts near the Chinese border. Then we’ll head northwest through undulating valleys and steep passes to the provincial capital of Cao Bang. From there, we’ll head west to Ba Be National Park and wrap up the trip rumbling southeast back to Hanoi. This is a region of Vietnam that is rarely visited and seeing it up close on a motorbike will offer remarkable glimpses of a remote corner of the country.

The town springs to life below our hotel window at 5 A.M. People yell to one another and trucks rumble by. We get up, thickheaded from the last night’s vodka splurge and frigid from the lack of heat in our room, so we cross the street in search of breakfast.

An old woman, her face deeply wrinkled, sells us rice pancakes with minced meat. Thick steam rises from her grill in the cool of the morning.

Soon we are back on the road.

At noon, we arrive at a truck stop overlooking a rich, verdant valley.

Three boys approach us on bicycles to inspect our Minsks and eye us curiously.

We’re traveling on Highway 4, which »

Town and Country Clockwise from top: Chaotic Hanoi traffic; Ban Gioc waterfall in Cao Bang province; riding through Cao Bang.

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DAY 3

Cao Bang to Tinh Tuc (105 kilometers)

stay in the dilapidated mining town of Tinh Tuc. The place is overwhelmingly LOCAL gray, and made even more SIGN LANGUAGE somber when a mist throws a When entering a cave, watch out shroud over the town. The for legions of building next door to our low-flying bats. drafty hotel is a mixedbusiness treat of dog-meat restaurant, karaoke bar and brothel.

The day’s the ride takes us through terrain resembling a mountainous lunarscape, with vehicle-size rocks nudging out of the earth like hulking gravestones. When we pass through villages, children smile and wave, while people tending the fields stop working and stare as we ride by. That night we

DAY 4

Tinh Tuc to Ba Be National Park (45 kilometers)

“We’re going to do some serious offroading today,” Greenhalgh informs me in the morning. I am slightly unnerved, being more of a weekend joyrider than a hardcore biker.

Greenhalgh leads the way, and soon we turn off a dusty dirt track and head along steep hillsides. I dodge large tree stumps and hill-sized rocks, worried that my tires will burst at any moment. Sections of the terrain are so steep we barely creep along in first gear, our engines whining. My Minsk isn’t idling fast enough and occasionally clatters to a stop.

Some people claim that time appears to slow during an accident, but in my case, time seemed to accelerate wildly.

I’m about to descend a steep embankment, and as I’m carefully coasting towards the precipice, my Minsk lurches to an unexpected stop (I’ve accidentally jammed the brakes) and I’m bucked headfirst off the bike.

As my torso hits the ground, I begin an ignominious downhill slide, but I’m stopped short of the edge by a heavy weight. I look back and stare upwards.

The bike has tipped over and landed on me, crushing my left ankle. My faithful Minsk has saved me from a plummet of shame—and harm. Only Greenhalgh, who had stopped up ahead, has witnessed my spill. He lifts the motorbike off me, and I brush Spice of Life Clockwise from top left: Getting across the Nang river; inside Phuong Cave; the bridge between Cao Bang and Tinh Tuc; dinner in Cao Bang.

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myself off. I’m unhurt and we drive away. Soon, thankfully, we’re on a sealed road. As darkness approaches, we stop at a hotel in the densely forested Ba Be National Park.

DAY 5

Boat ride on Ba Be Lake (8 kilometers)

TO P : CO U RT ESY O F E X P LO R E I N D O C H I N A . BOT TO M : N EW L EY P U R N E L L

hotel in the provincial capital of Cao Bang, a nondescript city on the banks of the Bang Giang River. It’s a bit warmer here, although we still need heavy jackets. We take a stroll through the wide city streets before turning in early.

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runs along the Chinese border, just to our north. Greenhalgh asks them in rudimentary Mandarin if they speak Chinese. “No, no, no,” the tallest boy responds in Vietnamese. “We don’t speak Chinese,” he says, smiling and pointing over his shoulder. “But they do over there in China.”

Further on, we see a woman tending a fire, burning what appear to be medium-sized animals. Could they be goats? We stop to look. They’re dogs, and she’s roasting them to remove their fur—the meat is considered a delicacy throughout Vietnam. Just as I’m examining the fire and its contents, a man approaches me from behind and lowers another canine into the flames, its stiff legs askew. Later that day, we arrive at a cavernous, government-run

A rest break and photo opportunity in Cao Bang province.

At breakfast, we eat noodles at a small restaurant on the Ba Be Lake. It’s warmer now, and we work our way down to a river that feeds the lake, where Greenhalgh’s friend Dang has readied a small boat for us. We gingerly ride our bikes aboard and shove off.

Soon, a mountain appears before us, and the river leads into a cave that cuts through its side. This is Phuong Cave, a 200-meter-long passageway. Dang stops the boat once we’ve entered. The fetid smell of guano is overpowering— the cave is home to legions of bats.

“Someone went in with a big light one time,” Dang says, “to see how many of them there are. There were too many to count.” We take the boat back to the lake and spend the night at Dang’s simple, two-story house, where he lives with his wife and five sons.

DAY 6

GUIDE TO VIETNAM

Ba Be Lake to Hanoi (180 kilometers)

After fried eggs and baguettes for breakfast, we begin the long haul back to Hanoi on Highway 2. One, two, three and then four hours tick by. The longer we travel the highway, the more traffic appears on the road. We stop for a lunch of grilled shrimp, beef with green pepper and roasted corn. On the outskirts of Hanoi, on a long, flat stretch of expressway, my Minsk begins to lose power. We stop and quickly identify the problem. It’s just a dirty spark plug—a problem easily fixed. We clean it, I kick-start my Minsk and we are once again headed for the capital.

The Hanoi traffic is as tumultuous as ever, but it’s easier to navigate after so much time on rough roads. I say goodbye to Greenhalgh, relinquish my Minsk and return to my hotel. Vehicles weave along the street below my window. My body is stiff and I’m glad to get some rest. Still, I have to fight the urge to go back downstairs, wrest my Minsk back from Greenhalgh, and rejoin the flow of traffic once again. ✚

WHEN TO GO From April to October, the north is hot and wet, but this is when the countryside is especially verdant. From November to March, the temperatures are cooler and it’s drier.

GETTING THERE Vietnam Airlines and regional carriers have frequent flights to Hanoi from Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong.

MOTORBIKE TOURS Explore Indochina organizes three- to nineday motorbike trips through the north of Vietnam that can accommodate up to five riders per guide. The cost is US$150–US$270 per person daily, depending on the number of riders. This includes motorbike rental, fuel, lodging and meals. It’s also possible to ride as a pillion passenger. Suite 500, Khach San Tuoi Tre, 2 Tran Thanh Tong, Hanoi; 84-91/3093159; www.exploreindochina.com.

WHAT TO READ Vietnam Now Author David Lamb covered the Vietnam War and then moved to the country 30 years on.

The book describes everyday life in detail.

Encountering a buffalo outside That Khe.

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t+l journal | driving

DAY 3

Cao Bang to Tinh Tuc (105 kilometers)

stay in the dilapidated mining town of Tinh Tuc. The place is overwhelmingly LOCAL gray, and made even more SIGN LANGUAGE somber when a mist throws a When entering a cave, watch out shroud over the town. The for legions of building next door to our low-flying bats. drafty hotel is a mixedbusiness treat of dog-meat restaurant, karaoke bar and brothel.

The day’s the ride takes us through terrain resembling a mountainous lunarscape, with vehicle-size rocks nudging out of the earth like hulking gravestones. When we pass through villages, children smile and wave, while people tending the fields stop working and stare as we ride by. That night we

DAY 4

Tinh Tuc to Ba Be National Park (45 kilometers)

“We’re going to do some serious offroading today,” Greenhalgh informs me in the morning. I am slightly unnerved, being more of a weekend joyrider than a hardcore biker.

Greenhalgh leads the way, and soon we turn off a dusty dirt track and head along steep hillsides. I dodge large tree stumps and hill-sized rocks, worried that my tires will burst at any moment. Sections of the terrain are so steep we barely creep along in first gear, our engines whining. My Minsk isn’t idling fast enough and occasionally clatters to a stop.

Some people claim that time appears to slow during an accident, but in my case, time seemed to accelerate wildly.

I’m about to descend a steep embankment, and as I’m carefully coasting towards the precipice, my Minsk lurches to an unexpected stop (I’ve accidentally jammed the brakes) and I’m bucked headfirst off the bike.

As my torso hits the ground, I begin an ignominious downhill slide, but I’m stopped short of the edge by a heavy weight. I look back and stare upwards.

The bike has tipped over and landed on me, crushing my left ankle. My faithful Minsk has saved me from a plummet of shame—and harm. Only Greenhalgh, who had stopped up ahead, has witnessed my spill. He lifts the motorbike off me, and I brush Spice of Life Clockwise from top left: Getting across the Nang river; inside Phuong Cave; the bridge between Cao Bang and Tinh Tuc; dinner in Cao Bang.

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myself off. I’m unhurt and we drive away. Soon, thankfully, we’re on a sealed road. As darkness approaches, we stop at a hotel in the densely forested Ba Be National Park.

DAY 5

Boat ride on Ba Be Lake (8 kilometers)

TO P : CO U RT ESY O F E X P LO R E I N D O C H I N A . BOT TO M : N EW L EY P U R N E L L

hotel in the provincial capital of Cao Bang, a nondescript city on the banks of the Bang Giang River. It’s a bit warmer here, although we still need heavy jackets. We take a stroll through the wide city streets before turning in early.

C LO C KW I S E F RO M BOT TO M R I G H T: N EW L EY P U R N E L L ( 3 ) ; CO U RT ESY O F E X P LO R E I N D O C H I N A

runs along the Chinese border, just to our north. Greenhalgh asks them in rudimentary Mandarin if they speak Chinese. “No, no, no,” the tallest boy responds in Vietnamese. “We don’t speak Chinese,” he says, smiling and pointing over his shoulder. “But they do over there in China.”

Further on, we see a woman tending a fire, burning what appear to be medium-sized animals. Could they be goats? We stop to look. They’re dogs, and she’s roasting them to remove their fur—the meat is considered a delicacy throughout Vietnam. Just as I’m examining the fire and its contents, a man approaches me from behind and lowers another canine into the flames, its stiff legs askew. Later that day, we arrive at a cavernous, government-run

A rest break and photo opportunity in Cao Bang province.

At breakfast, we eat noodles at a small restaurant on the Ba Be Lake. It’s warmer now, and we work our way down to a river that feeds the lake, where Greenhalgh’s friend Dang has readied a small boat for us. We gingerly ride our bikes aboard and shove off.

Soon, a mountain appears before us, and the river leads into a cave that cuts through its side. This is Phuong Cave, a 200-meter-long passageway. Dang stops the boat once we’ve entered. The fetid smell of guano is overpowering— the cave is home to legions of bats.

“Someone went in with a big light one time,” Dang says, “to see how many of them there are. There were too many to count.” We take the boat back to the lake and spend the night at Dang’s simple, two-story house, where he lives with his wife and five sons.

DAY 6

GUIDE TO VIETNAM

Ba Be Lake to Hanoi (180 kilometers)

After fried eggs and baguettes for breakfast, we begin the long haul back to Hanoi on Highway 2. One, two, three and then four hours tick by. The longer we travel the highway, the more traffic appears on the road. We stop for a lunch of grilled shrimp, beef with green pepper and roasted corn. On the outskirts of Hanoi, on a long, flat stretch of expressway, my Minsk begins to lose power. We stop and quickly identify the problem. It’s just a dirty spark plug—a problem easily fixed. We clean it, I kick-start my Minsk and we are once again headed for the capital.

The Hanoi traffic is as tumultuous as ever, but it’s easier to navigate after so much time on rough roads. I say goodbye to Greenhalgh, relinquish my Minsk and return to my hotel. Vehicles weave along the street below my window. My body is stiff and I’m glad to get some rest. Still, I have to fight the urge to go back downstairs, wrest my Minsk back from Greenhalgh, and rejoin the flow of traffic once again. ✚

WHEN TO GO From April to October, the north is hot and wet, but this is when the countryside is especially verdant. From November to March, the temperatures are cooler and it’s drier.

GETTING THERE Vietnam Airlines and regional carriers have frequent flights to Hanoi from Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong.

MOTORBIKE TOURS Explore Indochina organizes three- to nineday motorbike trips through the north of Vietnam that can accommodate up to five riders per guide. The cost is US$150–US$270 per person daily, depending on the number of riders. This includes motorbike rental, fuel, lodging and meals. It’s also possible to ride as a pillion passenger. Suite 500, Khach San Tuoi Tre, 2 Tran Thanh Tong, Hanoi; 84-91/3093159; www.exploreindochina.com.

WHAT TO READ Vietnam Now Author David Lamb covered the Vietnam War and then moved to the country 30 years on.

The book describes everyday life in detail.

Encountering a buffalo outside That Khe.

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MUSLIM GIRLS IN KUALA LUMPUR WEARING KIMONOS. PHOTOGRAPHED BY KEVIN MILLER

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PHUKET: old town with a new look Living the life in SOUTHEAST ASIA KUALA LUMPUR: a city comes alive Scenery, food, wines, TASMANIA shines 97

East Meets West Below: Chinese lanterns along Soi Romanee. Opposite: A Sino-colonial shophouse on Thalang Road.

Phuket Old Style. It’s one of Asia’s most more to this island than sun and sand. Its old architecture, is in the midst of a revival.

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popular holiday destinations, but there’s town, peppered with splendid Sino-colonial Story and photographs by LEISA TYLER 99

East Meets West Below: Chinese lanterns along Soi Romanee. Opposite: A Sino-colonial shophouse on Thalang Road.

Phuket Old Style. It’s one of Asia’s most more to this island than sun and sand. Its old architecture, is in the midst of a revival.

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popular holiday destinations, but there’s town, peppered with splendid Sino-colonial Story and photographs by LEISA TYLER 99

Aged Beauty Below: An archetypal example of Sino-colonial architecture on Krabi Road. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The splendor of Chin Pracha House; a devotee at the Jui Tui Shrine; the Dibuk Bar and Grill; lanterns hang from the rafters at the Temple of Serene Light.

HIS TOWN FEELS LIKE Singapore did 30 years ago,” a lady at the table next to me tells her lunch companions one monsoonal afternoon at the China Inn Café. In a courtyard tucked inside a Sino-colonial shophouse, the café opens onto Thalang Road, the commercial heart of Phuket during the island’s halcyon days of the mid 1800’s to early 1900’s, when tin mining made it one of Asia’s most prosperous towns. Lined with two-story Sino-colonial shophouses—differing only in color and the intricacy of their awnings—Thalang Road, together with its neighboring streets, is in the midst of a cultural and architectural revival.

Genteel and laid-back, Phuket’s old town was built by Chinese miners who arrived mainly in the 19th century to try their luck in the island’s tin mines. Known locally as Baba (shortened from Baba-Nonya, a term used to describe people of Chinese origin who settled in Southeast Asia), many married local Thai

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women and help build a rich and storied community. Most of the tin is now gone and Phuket’s wealth these days is drawn from tourism. But the original town—a network of streets lined with handsome and, in some cases, crumbling Sino-colonial shophouses and mansions, framed by a sprawling and energetic newer city—remains. That this enclave has survived the fabricated sameness typifying many of Thailand’s provincial capitals is a minor miracle; the fact it’s being restored is a revelation.

“Almost everybody living in Phuket’s old town is from a nonThai motherland,” local historian Pranee Sakulpipat tells me.

“Mainly, our ancestors came from Fujian province in China.

But my neighbors are also Bangladeshi, Indian and Muslims from southern Thailand, all who came for tin mining and stayed. We live like layer cake.”

Pranee and I are lunching at Wilai, a restaurant near the China Inn Café on Thalang Road. It isn’t the classiest diner in town—with plastic furniture and an open-air kitchen alive with nose-tickling aromas of fried chili—but certainly one of the »

Aged Beauty Below: An archetypal example of Sino-colonial architecture on Krabi Road. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The splendor of Chin Pracha House; a devotee at the Jui Tui Shrine; the Dibuk Bar and Grill; lanterns hang from the rafters at the Temple of Serene Light.

HIS TOWN FEELS LIKE Singapore did 30 years ago,” a lady at the table next to me tells her lunch companions one monsoonal afternoon at the China Inn Café. In a courtyard tucked inside a Sino-colonial shophouse, the café opens onto Thalang Road, the commercial heart of Phuket during the island’s halcyon days of the mid 1800’s to early 1900’s, when tin mining made it one of Asia’s most prosperous towns. Lined with two-story Sino-colonial shophouses—differing only in color and the intricacy of their awnings—Thalang Road, together with its neighboring streets, is in the midst of a cultural and architectural revival.

Genteel and laid-back, Phuket’s old town was built by Chinese miners who arrived mainly in the 19th century to try their luck in the island’s tin mines. Known locally as Baba (shortened from Baba-Nonya, a term used to describe people of Chinese origin who settled in Southeast Asia), many married local Thai

T 100

women and help build a rich and storied community. Most of the tin is now gone and Phuket’s wealth these days is drawn from tourism. But the original town—a network of streets lined with handsome and, in some cases, crumbling Sino-colonial shophouses and mansions, framed by a sprawling and energetic newer city—remains. That this enclave has survived the fabricated sameness typifying many of Thailand’s provincial capitals is a minor miracle; the fact it’s being restored is a revelation.

“Almost everybody living in Phuket’s old town is from a nonThai motherland,” local historian Pranee Sakulpipat tells me.

“Mainly, our ancestors came from Fujian province in China.

But my neighbors are also Bangladeshi, Indian and Muslims from southern Thailand, all who came for tin mining and stayed. We live like layer cake.”

Pranee and I are lunching at Wilai, a restaurant near the China Inn Café on Thalang Road. It isn’t the classiest diner in town—with plastic furniture and an open-air kitchen alive with nose-tickling aromas of fried chili—but certainly one of the »

Antique Streets Below: A Buddha image at the Soul of Asia gallery. Left: Soi Romanee.

most popular, and Pranee tells me, the best place to eat Baba food. “Baba food is just like Baba people, quite peculiar,” she says. “We look Chinese, follow Chinese customs, but can’t speak Chinese. We speak Thai and have Thai manners.”

We order yehu engchay, a plate of lightly boiled vegetables and squid served with a fermented soybean sauce that’s too intense for my foreign palate, followed by a sensational yellow curry with silken tofu, called tawchaew lon, and char guay tiou, a spicier version of pad thai with wide noodles and mollusks. The chef tells me all are cooked in traditional Fujian style, but with Thai flavors: shrimp paste, turmeric, chili and lemongrass.

Calm and collected, the rustic old town of Phuket is a far cry from the hedonism of nearby Patong Beach, the island’s rambunctious—and most popular—stretch of sand. Less than 3 percent of visitors to Phuket slide off their deck chairs and head into the old town. But running off the back of the island’s tourism resurgence following the devastating 2004 Asian tsunami, some residents are now hoping to change this.

“There is a lot of potential to make Phuket Town’s old quarter into a heritage center for tourism,” Dr. Prasit Kosiripong, the chairman of the Old Phuket Foundation, tells me later that afternoon. Dr. Prasit, a former mayor of Phuket who was instrumental in the island’s success as a holiday destination, has big plans for the little town, including four museums and regulations on modifying historical buildings.

“Many businesspeople come to Phuket for short-term money gains, but the preservation of heritage requires both long-term thinkers and stayers,” says the sprightly doctor who grew up in the old town. “We are hoping to activate people’s awareness about Baba culture while building a stage for tourism.”

It looks like it may be already happening. The last two years have witnessed a string of bohemian galleries, bars, shops and hotels transform the Sino-colonial shophouses of the old town.

These include tapas bar Siam Indigo, Moroccan home-wares shop Sharms and Shanghai furniture chain Casa Pagoda.

Following the success of her boutique hotel, The Taste of Phuket (which has sadly taken a slide downhill since), up-andcoming designer Malida Vaidyanuvatti recently opened XVI, a sleek minimalist bar with lipstick-red leather stools and oversized murals. Unable to meet rental demands in Patong, a bunch of young artists have now set up studios on Phang Nga Road. “The old town has spirit,” one tells me.

This buzz isn’t exactly new. For the last 10 years the island’s most sought after tables have been in the old town at Ka Jok See restaurant, a place dazzling with antique wood furniture, Rajasthani fabrics and big pots of fresh long-stemmed »

“There is a lot of potential to make Phuket 102

Town’s old quarter into a heritage center” 103

Antique Streets Below: A Buddha image at the Soul of Asia gallery. Left: Soi Romanee.

most popular, and Pranee tells me, the best place to eat Baba food. “Baba food is just like Baba people, quite peculiar,” she says. “We look Chinese, follow Chinese customs, but can’t speak Chinese. We speak Thai and have Thai manners.”

We order yehu engchay, a plate of lightly boiled vegetables and squid served with a fermented soybean sauce that’s too intense for my foreign palate, followed by a sensational yellow curry with silken tofu, called tawchaew lon, and char guay tiou, a spicier version of pad thai with wide noodles and mollusks. The chef tells me all are cooked in traditional Fujian style, but with Thai flavors: shrimp paste, turmeric, chili and lemongrass.

Calm and collected, the rustic old town of Phuket is a far cry from the hedonism of nearby Patong Beach, the island’s rambunctious—and most popular—stretch of sand. Less than 3 percent of visitors to Phuket slide off their deck chairs and head into the old town. But running off the back of the island’s tourism resurgence following the devastating 2004 Asian tsunami, some residents are now hoping to change this.

“There is a lot of potential to make Phuket Town’s old quarter into a heritage center for tourism,” Dr. Prasit Kosiripong, the chairman of the Old Phuket Foundation, tells me later that afternoon. Dr. Prasit, a former mayor of Phuket who was instrumental in the island’s success as a holiday destination, has big plans for the little town, including four museums and regulations on modifying historical buildings.

“Many businesspeople come to Phuket for short-term money gains, but the preservation of heritage requires both long-term thinkers and stayers,” says the sprightly doctor who grew up in the old town. “We are hoping to activate people’s awareness about Baba culture while building a stage for tourism.”

It looks like it may be already happening. The last two years have witnessed a string of bohemian galleries, bars, shops and hotels transform the Sino-colonial shophouses of the old town.

These include tapas bar Siam Indigo, Moroccan home-wares shop Sharms and Shanghai furniture chain Casa Pagoda.

Following the success of her boutique hotel, The Taste of Phuket (which has sadly taken a slide downhill since), up-andcoming designer Malida Vaidyanuvatti recently opened XVI, a sleek minimalist bar with lipstick-red leather stools and oversized murals. Unable to meet rental demands in Patong, a bunch of young artists have now set up studios on Phang Nga Road. “The old town has spirit,” one tells me.

This buzz isn’t exactly new. For the last 10 years the island’s most sought after tables have been in the old town at Ka Jok See restaurant, a place dazzling with antique wood furniture, Rajasthani fabrics and big pots of fresh long-stemmed »

“There is a lot of potential to make Phuket 102

Town’s old quarter into a heritage center” 103

Outdoor Experience Below: Al fresco at the China Inn Café. Opposite, clockwise from top left: A dragon mural adorns a building in Soi Romanee; China Inn Café; crab cakes at Siam Indigo; Buranaporn “Mia” Tandavanits outside her father's house, Chin Pracha House.

roses. After some negotiation, I was lucky enough to score a table for Wednesday night. The owner, Lek (who only goes by one name), goes to lengths to make sure everyone dining in his restaurant is compatible on some level. This isn’t, after all, any ordinary restaurant. Instead, think dinner party cum raucous dance party with chic patronage (Kate Moss celebrated her birthday here and the Rolling Stones dropped by to bust some moves on the dance floor).

Although most people don’t come to Ka Jok See for the food, it’s certainly no slouch in that department. My smoked eggplant salad with shrimp was perfectly nutty, the shrimp crisp and tender, the vinegar dressing sweet and feisty. Free mojitos are passed around by 8:30 P.M. and dancing starts before 9 P.M. After 10 P.M., the floor is cleared and the Thai movie stars and fashionistas sitting at the opposite table lose their cool demeanors and take turns dancing—topless—on tables.

That night wandering back to my hotel I come across a small Muslim-run hookah café. At a glance it seems out of place, but after I consider my day—lunching on Chinese-infused Baba food, lighting incense at a Taoist temple, shopping for batik sarongs and boogying with the cool crowd at a Thai restaurant in richly diverse Phuket old town—anything fits.

Despite Dr. Prasit’s good intentions with the shuttle bus, the best way to see Phuket’s old town is on foot. The next day, armed with a free Phuket Old Town Treasure Map, which highlights the town’s architectural and cultural gems, I set out on a tour.

I start on Soi Romanee, the former red light district and the once-favored destination for tin miners drowning their homesick blues. These days the scene is somewhat tamer, the only late-night mischief coming from jam sessions at the jazz bar Glasnost. Soi Romanee was the first street in the district to undergo renovations. It now dazzles with buildings done in shades of pink and cherry. One side of the road is adorned with Chinese lanterns, the other with household shrines, worshipped daily with burning incense sticks and fruit offerings.

My next stop is the Temple of Serene Light, a late 19th-century Chinese temple accessible by a small alley off Phang Nga Road (the temple is so well hidden that many locals don’t even know where it is). Restored in the mid 1990’s, the temple’s murals detail the trials and tribulations of Xi Yin Gui, a Chinese folk hero who later became a deity. Outside, tables overflow with offerings from devotees hoping to redirect their fate: cake for prosperity, sticky rice for unity, bananas for customers, oranges for wealth, a jug of oil to add more spark to life. » 105

Outdoor Experience Below: Al fresco at the China Inn Café. Opposite, clockwise from top left: A dragon mural adorns a building in Soi Romanee; China Inn Café; crab cakes at Siam Indigo; Buranaporn “Mia” Tandavanits outside her father's house, Chin Pracha House.

roses. After some negotiation, I was lucky enough to score a table for Wednesday night. The owner, Lek (who only goes by one name), goes to lengths to make sure everyone dining in his restaurant is compatible on some level. This isn’t, after all, any ordinary restaurant. Instead, think dinner party cum raucous dance party with chic patronage (Kate Moss celebrated her birthday here and the Rolling Stones dropped by to bust some moves on the dance floor).

Although most people don’t come to Ka Jok See for the food, it’s certainly no slouch in that department. My smoked eggplant salad with shrimp was perfectly nutty, the shrimp crisp and tender, the vinegar dressing sweet and feisty. Free mojitos are passed around by 8:30 P.M. and dancing starts before 9 P.M. After 10 P.M., the floor is cleared and the Thai movie stars and fashionistas sitting at the opposite table lose their cool demeanors and take turns dancing—topless—on tables.

That night wandering back to my hotel I come across a small Muslim-run hookah café. At a glance it seems out of place, but after I consider my day—lunching on Chinese-infused Baba food, lighting incense at a Taoist temple, shopping for batik sarongs and boogying with the cool crowd at a Thai restaurant in richly diverse Phuket old town—anything fits.

Despite Dr. Prasit’s good intentions with the shuttle bus, the best way to see Phuket’s old town is on foot. The next day, armed with a free Phuket Old Town Treasure Map, which highlights the town’s architectural and cultural gems, I set out on a tour.

I start on Soi Romanee, the former red light district and the once-favored destination for tin miners drowning their homesick blues. These days the scene is somewhat tamer, the only late-night mischief coming from jam sessions at the jazz bar Glasnost. Soi Romanee was the first street in the district to undergo renovations. It now dazzles with buildings done in shades of pink and cherry. One side of the road is adorned with Chinese lanterns, the other with household shrines, worshipped daily with burning incense sticks and fruit offerings.

My next stop is the Temple of Serene Light, a late 19th-century Chinese temple accessible by a small alley off Phang Nga Road (the temple is so well hidden that many locals don’t even know where it is). Restored in the mid 1990’s, the temple’s murals detail the trials and tribulations of Xi Yin Gui, a Chinese folk hero who later became a deity. Outside, tables overflow with offerings from devotees hoping to redirect their fate: cake for prosperity, sticky rice for unity, bananas for customers, oranges for wealth, a jug of oil to add more spark to life. » 105

Here I plan to meet with Buranaporn “Mia” Tandavanits, the progeny of one of Phuket’s wealthiest and most influential tin miners, Pratipak Chinpracha, who built Chin Pracha House. Later, we are to visit her father’s mansion.

Of all the buildings in Phuket’s old town, Chin Pracha House is the most renowned. Built in 1903, the house sits proudly on verdant lawns, with archways, timber-shuttered windows, eaves decorated with intricate latticework, floors laid with Italian tiles and furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl.

Chin Pracha House is open to the public as the patriarch insisted that the house be a legacy to Baba culture. Inside, Mia and her mother, now in her 80’s, guide me through old family pictures on the walls, most of them taken in the first half of 1900’s.

“A lot of the old town still looks the same,” says Mia, who was educated at a private British school in Penang, where her father also had businesses. Dubbed as Phuket’s sister city, Penang in those days was easier to get to (a short boat trip down the coast) than Bangkok, which was an uncomfortable journey of several days by road.

Famished, Mia insists on taking me to her favorite restaurant, an outlet of the Black Canyon chain at a huge Tesco Lotus shopping center on the edge of Phuket Town. It’s the first time in a week that I have left the old town and I’m taken aback by the crowds of shoppers rushing around under bright fluorescent lights, and music blaring from dozens of shops.

“Times certainly have changed,” giggles Mia, taking my arm and leading me into the crowd.

Diners at Ka Jok See restaurant.

GUIDE TO PHUKET TOWN antiques in the lobby. 1 Montree Rd.; 66-76/232-494; www.sinohousephuket.com; doubles from Bt1,600.

The Taste of Phuket Two converted shophouses in the heart of the old town.

The 12 rooms have seen better days, however. 16–18 Rassada Rd.; 66-76/222-812; www. thetastephuket.com; doubles from Bt2,500.

WHEN TO GO Phuket’s climate is warm all year round, although March to May can get uncomfortably hot and June to October is besieged by monsoonal rains. The best time to visit is September to March, when temperatures hover around 30 degrees and the island is at its most festive.

Phuket Town’s most dramatic event, the Vegetarian Festival, begins on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, according to the Chinese calendar (late September or early October), and lasts for about 10 days.

During the festival, dating back to the 1800’s, hundreds of young men pierce their checks with swords, spears and other metal objects and, accompanied by beating drums, clanging cymbals and thunderous fireworks, take to the streets in a bizarre and bloody parade of purification and atonement.

Every February, the Old

106

Town Cultural Festival (which corresponds to Chinese New Year) celebrates Baba culture with films, food and other events.

HOW TO GET THERE Thai Airways has numerous daily flights from Bangkok; budget carriers Nok Air, AirAsia and One-Two-Go also fly from Bangkok; Malaysian Airlines and AirAsia fly from Kuala Lumpur; Silk Air and Singapore Airlines fly from Singapore; and Dragonair flies from Hong Kong.

The free Phuket Town Treasure Map is available from most commercial businesses or at Art&Culture. 16 Soi Romanee; www.artandcultureasia.com.

WHERE TO STAY Sino House Chinese chic, with oversized Oriental-inspired murals above the beds and GREAT VALUE

WHERE TO EAT Ka Jok See 26 Takuapa Rd.; 6676/217-903; dinner for two, with wine, US$65; bookings essential.

Siam Indigo Thai-inspired tapas and cocktails in stylishly rustic surroundings. 8 Phang Nga Rd.; 66-76/256-697; www. siamindigo.com; dinner for two US$40.

Salvatore’s Country Italian, with pizzeria. 15–17 Rassada Rd.; 66-76/225-958; www. salvatorestaurant.com; dinner for two, with wine, US$70.

Dibuk Bar and Grill French-run bistro with rabbit and wild boar in red wine. 93 Dibuk Rd.; 6676/258-148; lunch for two, with wine, US$50.

China Inn Café 20 Thalang Rd.; 66-76/356-239; lunch for two US$20.

Wilai 14 Thalang Rd.; 66-76/222875; lunch for two US$5.

XVI 14 Takuapa Rd.; 66/816-660335; drinks for two US$10.

Glasnost 14 Soi Romanee; drinks for two US$10.

Green Leaf (no sign in English) 143 Thalang Rd.; tea for two US$7.

WHERE TO SHOP Soul of Asia Thai and Chinese antiques and artists, with Andy Warhol prints and Gao Xiaowu’s jubilant statues. 37–39 Rassada Rd.; 66-76/211-122; www. soulofasia.com.

Himalayan Arts and Crafts Affordable Tibetan and Nepalese antiques, rugs and bric-a-brac. 48 Yaowarat Rd. Sharms Moroccan furniture and household furnishings: red and black poufs and mosaic water fountains. 83–85 Yaowarat Rd.; 66-76/218-514.

Oriental Closet Thai and Burmese antiques in an old wooden house. 99 Dibuk Rd.; 66-76/258-059.

Casa Pagoda Chinese chests and heavy retro-print couches.

42 Dibuk Rd.; 66-76/215-415; www.casapagoda.com.

Classic Barn Traditional Thai fabrics melded with rich local woods and leather. 10–12 Yaowarat Rd.; 66-76/256-021.

GALLERIES AND STUDIOS Number 1 Gallery Features some of the kingdom’s finest surrealist painters, including Prateep Kochabua and Tawee Ratchaneekorn. 32 Yaowarat Rd.; 66/872-815-279.

Art Home Amnat Boonsanit’s terra-cotta pot paintings. 113 Phang Nga Rd.; 66-76/224/866.

WHAT TO DO Chin Pracha House 98 Krabi Rd.; 66-76/211-281; open daily.

Temple of Serene Light Phang Nga Rd.

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Here I plan to meet with Buranaporn “Mia” Tandavanits, the progeny of one of Phuket’s wealthiest and most influential tin miners, Pratipak Chinpracha, who built Chin Pracha House. Later, we are to visit her father’s mansion.

Of all the buildings in Phuket’s old town, Chin Pracha House is the most renowned. Built in 1903, the house sits proudly on verdant lawns, with archways, timber-shuttered windows, eaves decorated with intricate latticework, floors laid with Italian tiles and furniture inlaid with mother-of-pearl.

Chin Pracha House is open to the public as the patriarch insisted that the house be a legacy to Baba culture. Inside, Mia and her mother, now in her 80’s, guide me through old family pictures on the walls, most of them taken in the first half of 1900’s.

“A lot of the old town still looks the same,” says Mia, who was educated at a private British school in Penang, where her father also had businesses. Dubbed as Phuket’s sister city, Penang in those days was easier to get to (a short boat trip down the coast) than Bangkok, which was an uncomfortable journey of several days by road.

Famished, Mia insists on taking me to her favorite restaurant, an outlet of the Black Canyon chain at a huge Tesco Lotus shopping center on the edge of Phuket Town. It’s the first time in a week that I have left the old town and I’m taken aback by the crowds of shoppers rushing around under bright fluorescent lights, and music blaring from dozens of shops.

“Times certainly have changed,” giggles Mia, taking my arm and leading me into the crowd.

Diners at Ka Jok See restaurant.

GUIDE TO PHUKET TOWN antiques in the lobby. 1 Montree Rd.; 66-76/232-494; www.sinohousephuket.com; doubles from Bt1,600.

The Taste of Phuket Two converted shophouses in the heart of the old town.

The 12 rooms have seen better days, however. 16–18 Rassada Rd.; 66-76/222-812; www. thetastephuket.com; doubles from Bt2,500.

WHEN TO GO Phuket’s climate is warm all year round, although March to May can get uncomfortably hot and June to October is besieged by monsoonal rains. The best time to visit is September to March, when temperatures hover around 30 degrees and the island is at its most festive.

Phuket Town’s most dramatic event, the Vegetarian Festival, begins on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, according to the Chinese calendar (late September or early October), and lasts for about 10 days.

During the festival, dating back to the 1800’s, hundreds of young men pierce their checks with swords, spears and other metal objects and, accompanied by beating drums, clanging cymbals and thunderous fireworks, take to the streets in a bizarre and bloody parade of purification and atonement.

Every February, the Old

106

Town Cultural Festival (which corresponds to Chinese New Year) celebrates Baba culture with films, food and other events.

HOW TO GET THERE Thai Airways has numerous daily flights from Bangkok; budget carriers Nok Air, AirAsia and One-Two-Go also fly from Bangkok; Malaysian Airlines and AirAsia fly from Kuala Lumpur; Silk Air and Singapore Airlines fly from Singapore; and Dragonair flies from Hong Kong.

The free Phuket Town Treasure Map is available from most commercial businesses or at Art&Culture. 16 Soi Romanee; www.artandcultureasia.com.

WHERE TO STAY Sino House Chinese chic, with oversized Oriental-inspired murals above the beds and GREAT VALUE

WHERE TO EAT Ka Jok See 26 Takuapa Rd.; 6676/217-903; dinner for two, with wine, US$65; bookings essential.

Siam Indigo Thai-inspired tapas and cocktails in stylishly rustic surroundings. 8 Phang Nga Rd.; 66-76/256-697; www. siamindigo.com; dinner for two US$40.

Salvatore’s Country Italian, with pizzeria. 15–17 Rassada Rd.; 66-76/225-958; www. salvatorestaurant.com; dinner for two, with wine, US$70.

Dibuk Bar and Grill French-run bistro with rabbit and wild boar in red wine. 93 Dibuk Rd.; 6676/258-148; lunch for two, with wine, US$50.

China Inn Café 20 Thalang Rd.; 66-76/356-239; lunch for two US$20.

Wilai 14 Thalang Rd.; 66-76/222875; lunch for two US$5.

XVI 14 Takuapa Rd.; 66/816-660335; drinks for two US$10.

Glasnost 14 Soi Romanee; drinks for two US$10.

Green Leaf (no sign in English) 143 Thalang Rd.; tea for two US$7.

WHERE TO SHOP Soul of Asia Thai and Chinese antiques and artists, with Andy Warhol prints and Gao Xiaowu’s jubilant statues. 37–39 Rassada Rd.; 66-76/211-122; www. soulofasia.com.

Himalayan Arts and Crafts Affordable Tibetan and Nepalese antiques, rugs and bric-a-brac. 48 Yaowarat Rd. Sharms Moroccan furniture and household furnishings: red and black poufs and mosaic water fountains. 83–85 Yaowarat Rd.; 66-76/218-514.

Oriental Closet Thai and Burmese antiques in an old wooden house. 99 Dibuk Rd.; 66-76/258-059.

Casa Pagoda Chinese chests and heavy retro-print couches.

42 Dibuk Rd.; 66-76/215-415; www.casapagoda.com.

Classic Barn Traditional Thai fabrics melded with rich local woods and leather. 10–12 Yaowarat Rd.; 66-76/256-021.

GALLERIES AND STUDIOS Number 1 Gallery Features some of the kingdom’s finest surrealist painters, including Prateep Kochabua and Tawee Ratchaneekorn. 32 Yaowarat Rd.; 66/872-815-279.

Art Home Amnat Boonsanit’s terra-cotta pot paintings. 113 Phang Nga Rd.; 66-76/224/866.

WHAT TO DO Chin Pracha House 98 Krabi Rd.; 66-76/211-281; open daily.

Temple of Serene Light Phang Nga Rd.

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Fancy gliding past emerald rice fields in a luxury train or floating above the golden domes of ancient temples in a hot air balloon? If you have money to burn, try one of these ultra-exclusive holidays.

By PAUL EHRLICH

Maps by Wasinee Chantakorn

108 P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y M I T C H E L L N G U Y E N M C C O R M A C K . S T Y L E D B Y K A M P O L L I K I T J A N A K U L . M O D E L : M A R I A LY N N E H R E N M A K E U P B Y V I N I T B O O N C H A I S R I . H A I R B Y P I B O O N J E N J A R AT VA N . C L O T H E S B Y H E R M È S . S H O E S , L U G G A G E A N D H AT B O X B Y L O U I S V U I T T O N . G O L D B R A C E L E T B Y D I S AYA .

FIVE FABULOUS SPLURGES The Eastern & Oriental Express — one of the world’s great train rides.

Fancy gliding past emerald rice fields in a luxury train or floating above the golden domes of ancient temples in a hot air balloon? If you have money to burn, try one of these ultra-exclusive holidays.

By PAUL EHRLICH

Maps by Wasinee Chantakorn

108 P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y M I T C H E L L N G U Y E N M C C O R M A C K . S T Y L E D B Y K A M P O L L I K I T J A N A K U L . M O D E L : M A R I A LY N N E H R E N M A K E U P B Y V I N I T B O O N C H A I S R I . H A I R B Y P I B O O N J E N J A R AT VA N . C L O T H E S B Y H E R M È S . S H O E S , L U G G A G E A N D H AT B O X B Y L O U I S V U I T T O N . G O L D B R A C E L E T B Y D I S AYA .

FIVE FABULOUS SPLURGES The Eastern & Oriental Express — one of the world’s great train rides.

PAGAN IS ONE OF ASIA’S GREAT temple cities, rivaling Cambodia’s Angkor for density and vastness of spiritual monuments, and Indonesia’s Borobadur for sheer majestic beauty. While the threat of government redevelopment hangs over some of the ancient ruins, the sight of 2,200 temples and pagodas glowing golden, white and russet over the rural landscape at sunset is still wondrous to behold.

It was here, in the 11th century, that the legendary warrior king Anawrahta began his quest to build his empire and spread Theravada Buddhism. Relics of the ancient king remain at Shwezigon Pagoda, whose gilded dome stands as Pagan’s most significant reliquary shrine. Pilgrims across Burma journey to Shwezigon each year to celebrate the Burmese month of Nadaw, and the site is of major importance to both followers of archaic Burmese shamanism and the younger religion of Buddhism.

Another noticeable difference at Pagan is the lack of crowds. Many people are simply unaware of the site or disinclined to visit for

110

political reasons. The result is unhidden tranquility.

This journey begins in fittingly Old World style at the historic The Strand hotel in Rangoon. Then it’s a short flight to the temples of Pagan, where your explorations will be based from the Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel nestled alongside the Irrawaddy River.

For a panoramic view of the land, take to the skies and look down over this rich archeological site from a hot air balloon. After an early morning takeoff, watch in awe as thousands of glimmering bellshaped domes and spires shimmer across the land in all directions beneath the rising sun.

Back down on the ground, see the vignettes of riverside life unfold on the shores of the Irrawaddy with a three-day cruise aboard the Pandaw II. A replica of an old colonial steamer, this airconditioned vessel’s stately comforts offer the finest ride around. Local experts will guide your trips ashore, pointing out the intricate details and delicate beauty of life in this timeworn land.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M M A I N I M A G E : J O S E F U E N T E / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F PA N D A W. C O M ; R E G I E N PA A S S E N / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F D I E T H E L M T R AV E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F PA N D A W. C O M

BURMA ANCIENT SPECTACLE

Burmese Ways Clockwise from left: A temple at Pagan; deck chairs aboard the luxury Pandaw II; hot air balloons float over Pagan temples at sunrise; horse carriages and riders wait for customers at Pagan; a monk guides young novices, at Yimabin.

GUIDE TO BURMA HOW TO BOOK

Diethelm Travel

The company offers numerous packages to Burma, incorporating all the luxury elements mentioned in this story.

12th floor, Kian Gwan Building II, 140/1 Wireless Rd., Bangkok; 662/660-7000; www. diethelmtravel.com; info@diethelmtravel.com.

and temperatures are cooler than the rest of the year. From March to May, temperatures in Pagan and Mandalay are close to intolerable.

Expect heavy rain between mid May and October, peaking from July to September.

WHAT IT COSTS

The Strand

Doubles from US$324.

WHEN TO GO

The best time to visit Burma is from November to February, when it rains the least

Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel

Doubles from US$130 during high season (November to February).

Pandaw II

Pagan to Mandalay cruises operate between November and March.

2 nights/3 days; US$934 per cabin, twin share.

WHAT TO READ

Burmese Days

George Orwell’s classic—published in 1934—is an enthralling novel centered on the waning days of British imperialism before World War II, based loosely on the author’s five years as a police officer in Burma.

111

PAGAN IS ONE OF ASIA’S GREAT temple cities, rivaling Cambodia’s Angkor for density and vastness of spiritual monuments, and Indonesia’s Borobadur for sheer majestic beauty. While the threat of government redevelopment hangs over some of the ancient ruins, the sight of 2,200 temples and pagodas glowing golden, white and russet over the rural landscape at sunset is still wondrous to behold.

It was here, in the 11th century, that the legendary warrior king Anawrahta began his quest to build his empire and spread Theravada Buddhism. Relics of the ancient king remain at Shwezigon Pagoda, whose gilded dome stands as Pagan’s most significant reliquary shrine. Pilgrims across Burma journey to Shwezigon each year to celebrate the Burmese month of Nadaw, and the site is of major importance to both followers of archaic Burmese shamanism and the younger religion of Buddhism.

Another noticeable difference at Pagan is the lack of crowds. Many people are simply unaware of the site or disinclined to visit for

110

political reasons. The result is unhidden tranquility.

This journey begins in fittingly Old World style at the historic The Strand hotel in Rangoon. Then it’s a short flight to the temples of Pagan, where your explorations will be based from the Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel nestled alongside the Irrawaddy River.

For a panoramic view of the land, take to the skies and look down over this rich archeological site from a hot air balloon. After an early morning takeoff, watch in awe as thousands of glimmering bellshaped domes and spires shimmer across the land in all directions beneath the rising sun.

Back down on the ground, see the vignettes of riverside life unfold on the shores of the Irrawaddy with a three-day cruise aboard the Pandaw II. A replica of an old colonial steamer, this airconditioned vessel’s stately comforts offer the finest ride around. Local experts will guide your trips ashore, pointing out the intricate details and delicate beauty of life in this timeworn land.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M M A I N I M A G E : J O S E F U E N T E / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F PA N D A W. C O M ; R E G I E N PA A S S E N / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F D I E T H E L M T R AV E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F PA N D A W. C O M

BURMA ANCIENT SPECTACLE

Burmese Ways Clockwise from left: A temple at Pagan; deck chairs aboard the luxury Pandaw II; hot air balloons float over Pagan temples at sunrise; horse carriages and riders wait for customers at Pagan; a monk guides young novices, at Yimabin.

GUIDE TO BURMA HOW TO BOOK

Diethelm Travel

The company offers numerous packages to Burma, incorporating all the luxury elements mentioned in this story.

12th floor, Kian Gwan Building II, 140/1 Wireless Rd., Bangkok; 662/660-7000; www. diethelmtravel.com; info@diethelmtravel.com.

and temperatures are cooler than the rest of the year. From March to May, temperatures in Pagan and Mandalay are close to intolerable.

Expect heavy rain between mid May and October, peaking from July to September.

WHAT IT COSTS

The Strand

Doubles from US$324.

WHEN TO GO

The best time to visit Burma is from November to February, when it rains the least

Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel

Doubles from US$130 during high season (November to February).

Pandaw II

Pagan to Mandalay cruises operate between November and March.

2 nights/3 days; US$934 per cabin, twin share.

WHAT TO READ

Burmese Days

George Orwell’s classic—published in 1934—is an enthralling novel centered on the waning days of British imperialism before World War II, based loosely on the author’s five years as a police officer in Burma.

111

INDONESIA WALKING WITH DRAGONS BRAVE EXPLORERS LOOKING TO answer the wilderness call will find an expedition like no other on this journey over sea and land. Komodo Island—home to the living reptilian legend that shares its name—and its surrounding islands are the only places you can come face to face with a dragon in the wild.

With a forked yellow tongue, huge muscular limbs and a thrashing tail as long as its body, the Komodo dragon is truly a creature from prehistoric times. With no other carnivorous animals to share their realm with, these apex predators grow to lengths of 2–3 meters. Just don’t get too close to this dragon’s razor sharp maw—it may not breathe flames, but just a drop of its blood-tinged saliva can be deadly.

As part of a seven-night voyage, you’ll set sail for Komodo Island aboard the Ikan Gurami. This 27meter phinisi boat—built by

Aman Luxury Clockwise from top left: Inside a tented Amanwana guest room; the Ikan Gurami; lounge chairs perched above the water at Amanwana; the living area under one of the luxurious tents at Amanwana; a view of the resort.

craftsmen on the island of Sumbawa—combines the mystique of a historic vessel with 21stcentury comfort and technology. A crew of seven, including a licensed dive instructor, are onboard to provide whatever you need above and below the sea.

The private cruise starts from the luxurious tented headquarters of the Amanwana Resort on Moyo Island, near Bali, and sails east along the chain known as the Lesser Sunda Islands. Here, you will charter forgotten lands on personal guided tours of some of the world’s most pristine landscapes and unspoiled cultures, both topside and beneath the glassy blue waters.

Komodo Island is both a national park and a national marine park, with abundant coral reefs teeming with more than 1,200 species of fish and 250 different types of coral, making it one of the world’s best dive sites.

HOW TO BOOK

WHAT IT COSTS

Amanresorts

Doubles starting from US$15,175 include five nights’ accommodation onboard the Ikan Gurami; two nights in an Ocean or Jungle tent at Amanwana; all meals and non-alcoholic beverages; two dives per person per day onboard the Ikan Gurami; one dive per person per day at Amanwana; and rangers’ fees for Komodo National Park.

65/6887-3337; www.amanresorts.com; reservations@ amanresorts.com.

THE RESORT

Amanwana is on the

Indonesian island of Moyo, off the coast of Sumbawa to the east of Bali. Secluded in a cove overlooking Amanwana Bay and the Flores Sea, the air of camp life is incorporated into sumptuous, airconditioned tents.

184 112

OTHER CRUISES

PT Silolona Pinisi

Explorer offers custommade cruises aboard its luxury 50-meter phisini sailboat to off-the-grid locations, including the pristine islands of the Mergui archipelago in Burma; the Andaman Islands; the Komodo islands and rarely visited West Papua in Indonesia; and the myriad islands off Langkawi, among others. Or you can plan your own itinerary.

15A Jl. Pengembak, Sanur, Bali; 62-361/287-326; www.silolona.com.

CO U RT ESY O F A M A N R ES O RTS

GUIDE TO KOMODO ISLAND

113

INDONESIA WALKING WITH DRAGONS BRAVE EXPLORERS LOOKING TO answer the wilderness call will find an expedition like no other on this journey over sea and land. Komodo Island—home to the living reptilian legend that shares its name—and its surrounding islands are the only places you can come face to face with a dragon in the wild.

With a forked yellow tongue, huge muscular limbs and a thrashing tail as long as its body, the Komodo dragon is truly a creature from prehistoric times. With no other carnivorous animals to share their realm with, these apex predators grow to lengths of 2–3 meters. Just don’t get too close to this dragon’s razor sharp maw—it may not breathe flames, but just a drop of its blood-tinged saliva can be deadly.

As part of a seven-night voyage, you’ll set sail for Komodo Island aboard the Ikan Gurami. This 27meter phinisi boat—built by

Aman Luxury Clockwise from top left: Inside a tented Amanwana guest room; the Ikan Gurami; lounge chairs perched above the water at Amanwana; the living area under one of the luxurious tents at Amanwana; a view of the resort.

craftsmen on the island of Sumbawa—combines the mystique of a historic vessel with 21stcentury comfort and technology. A crew of seven, including a licensed dive instructor, are onboard to provide whatever you need above and below the sea.

The private cruise starts from the luxurious tented headquarters of the Amanwana Resort on Moyo Island, near Bali, and sails east along the chain known as the Lesser Sunda Islands. Here, you will charter forgotten lands on personal guided tours of some of the world’s most pristine landscapes and unspoiled cultures, both topside and beneath the glassy blue waters.

Komodo Island is both a national park and a national marine park, with abundant coral reefs teeming with more than 1,200 species of fish and 250 different types of coral, making it one of the world’s best dive sites.

HOW TO BOOK

WHAT IT COSTS

Amanresorts

Doubles starting from US$15,175 include five nights’ accommodation onboard the Ikan Gurami; two nights in an Ocean or Jungle tent at Amanwana; all meals and non-alcoholic beverages; two dives per person per day onboard the Ikan Gurami; one dive per person per day at Amanwana; and rangers’ fees for Komodo National Park.

65/6887-3337; www.amanresorts.com; reservations@ amanresorts.com.

THE RESORT

Amanwana is on the

Indonesian island of Moyo, off the coast of Sumbawa to the east of Bali. Secluded in a cove overlooking Amanwana Bay and the Flores Sea, the air of camp life is incorporated into sumptuous, airconditioned tents.

184 112

OTHER CRUISES

PT Silolona Pinisi

Explorer offers custommade cruises aboard its luxury 50-meter phisini sailboat to off-the-grid locations, including the pristine islands of the Mergui archipelago in Burma; the Andaman Islands; the Komodo islands and rarely visited West Papua in Indonesia; and the myriad islands off Langkawi, among others. Or you can plan your own itinerary.

15A Jl. Pengembak, Sanur, Bali; 62-361/287-326; www.silolona.com.

CO U RT ESY O F A M A N R ES O RTS

GUIDE TO KOMODO ISLAND

113

MALAYSIA LIVING AN ISLAND DREAM EVERYTHING ABOUT THIS ISLAND destination is shrouded in mystery.

The name of the island is a closely guarded secret—and don’t even try to ask for the exact location. Just sit back and be whisked away to your own private paradise. Once you get there, you won’t care where you are or what it’s called.

Setting off from Langkawi, your journey into the wide blue yonder begins aboard a privately chartered 40-meter luxury cruiser. Seclusion gets a whole new meaning as you arrive at your destination a few hours later—an isle you won’t find on any local map.

From the white-sand beaches, seemingly absent of any human life, to the crystal-clear waters untainted by boat traffic, this is a tropical island fantasy made real.

Lurking somewhere on the island are six personal staff who have—

among other skills—mastered the art of removing any evidence that they exist. Every effort is made to ensure the privacy and blissful isolation of this secret haven.

The entire experience is designed to remove you from existence in the real world to a place where nothing else matters. There’s just you and the island—with a few added luxuries tucked away, of course.

This is your island and your fantasy—do what you want with it.

Wander the beaches and explore the environment. Start cataloguing indigenous wildlife. Forage for food or summon the gourmet chef to prepare a tropical delicacy for you on the beach. Or dive into the ocean and survey the rich marine life surrounding the island.

One thing you won’t be doing is looking for a way to leave this island paradise.

Island Idyll Clockwise from left: Swaying palms on a Malaysian beach; setting sail from Langkawi on a luxury cruiser; your own private beach on Fantasy Island; beachside under a tented gazebo; romantic sea views from your dining table.

M A I N I M AG E : RU S H O U R / D R E A M ST I M E .CO M ; CO U RT ESY O F LUXU RY ES CA P ES

GUIDE TO LANGKAWI

114

HOW TO BOOK Luxury Escapes

A somewhat exclusive operation that offers bespoke vacations to its clients. 60-3/2070-7321; www.luxuryescapes.com.my; vacations@luxuryescapes. com.my.

WHEN TO GO

Crystal Yacht Holidays

The best time to visit Langkawi and its surrounding islands is from December through April, when daily temperatures are milder, there is less rain than other times of the year, and the sea is calmer.

(60-4/955-6545; www. crystalyacht.com; charters cost 600 euros per 24 hours) offers custom-made cruises, including threeday trips exploring Langkawi’s islands and seven-day cruises to Phuket, Ko Phi Phi and Krabi in Thailand.

OTHER CRUISES

Blue Water Star Sailing

With 99 islands in the group, Langkawi is arguably the best place in Southeast Asia for yacht charters, both in the number available and sailing options.

(60-19/447-0745; overnight cruises for up to four guests, from 985 euros) can arrange chartered boat trips for up to two weeks for couples and small groups.

WHAT IT COSTS

From US$40,000, and then upwards depending on the length of stay on the island, with higher prices including a large bedroom built into a gazebo, lit by oil lamps.

115

MALAYSIA LIVING AN ISLAND DREAM EVERYTHING ABOUT THIS ISLAND destination is shrouded in mystery.

The name of the island is a closely guarded secret—and don’t even try to ask for the exact location. Just sit back and be whisked away to your own private paradise. Once you get there, you won’t care where you are or what it’s called.

Setting off from Langkawi, your journey into the wide blue yonder begins aboard a privately chartered 40-meter luxury cruiser. Seclusion gets a whole new meaning as you arrive at your destination a few hours later—an isle you won’t find on any local map.

From the white-sand beaches, seemingly absent of any human life, to the crystal-clear waters untainted by boat traffic, this is a tropical island fantasy made real.

Lurking somewhere on the island are six personal staff who have—

among other skills—mastered the art of removing any evidence that they exist. Every effort is made to ensure the privacy and blissful isolation of this secret haven.

The entire experience is designed to remove you from existence in the real world to a place where nothing else matters. There’s just you and the island—with a few added luxuries tucked away, of course.

This is your island and your fantasy—do what you want with it.

Wander the beaches and explore the environment. Start cataloguing indigenous wildlife. Forage for food or summon the gourmet chef to prepare a tropical delicacy for you on the beach. Or dive into the ocean and survey the rich marine life surrounding the island.

One thing you won’t be doing is looking for a way to leave this island paradise.

Island Idyll Clockwise from left: Swaying palms on a Malaysian beach; setting sail from Langkawi on a luxury cruiser; your own private beach on Fantasy Island; beachside under a tented gazebo; romantic sea views from your dining table.

M A I N I M AG E : RU S H O U R / D R E A M ST I M E .CO M ; CO U RT ESY O F LUXU RY ES CA P ES

GUIDE TO LANGKAWI

114

HOW TO BOOK Luxury Escapes

A somewhat exclusive operation that offers bespoke vacations to its clients. 60-3/2070-7321; www.luxuryescapes.com.my; vacations@luxuryescapes. com.my.

WHEN TO GO

Crystal Yacht Holidays

The best time to visit Langkawi and its surrounding islands is from December through April, when daily temperatures are milder, there is less rain than other times of the year, and the sea is calmer.

(60-4/955-6545; www. crystalyacht.com; charters cost 600 euros per 24 hours) offers custom-made cruises, including threeday trips exploring Langkawi’s islands and seven-day cruises to Phuket, Ko Phi Phi and Krabi in Thailand.

OTHER CRUISES

Blue Water Star Sailing

With 99 islands in the group, Langkawi is arguably the best place in Southeast Asia for yacht charters, both in the number available and sailing options.

(60-19/447-0745; overnight cruises for up to four guests, from 985 euros) can arrange chartered boat trips for up to two weeks for couples and small groups.

WHAT IT COSTS

From US$40,000, and then upwards depending on the length of stay on the island, with higher prices including a large bedroom built into a gazebo, lit by oil lamps.

115

SOUTHEAST ASIA TIME TRAVEL THE EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS is one of the world’s great train journeys. This ride, over hundreds of kilometers of track, is everything you expect from romantic train travel, complete with all the excitement of classic travel and soft adventure.

The Eastern & Oriental Express is an 80-kilometer-per-hour luxury hotel on rails. For Southeast Asia, it is one of the rare train journeys you can make in comfort and style.

Forget bullet trains and space-age monorails, this is the only way to travel by track.

Watching the complexity of the varying landscapes unfurl in a constant moving picture as you travel through Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand is both mesmerizing and deeply rewarding, as you get a

chance to appreciate the beauty of the ground you cover. You can’t help but lament the loss of charm and majesty in modern travel.

The journey passes through some of Asia’s most storied destinations.

There’s Penang, where you can stroll through the busy marketplaces or travel by trishaw and see the historic city firsthand. Then there’s the River Kwai Bridge Station in Thailand, where guides escort you on a cruise along the Kwai Yai River, passing under the historic bridge, while the Don Rak War Cemetery, set among lush lawns, provides a poignant backdrop.

There are few journeys like this in today’s world. Climb aboard and you’ll return to a quieter, gentler time, where opulence and dignity were the hallmarks of the day.

GUIDE TO THE E&O EXPRESS HOW TO BOOK

Eastern & Oriental Express

65/6392-3500; www. orient-express.com.

TIMETABLE

Trips from Singapore to Bangkok and Bangkok to Singapore run between two and four times a month.

The Bangkok to Vientiane and Bangkok to Chiang Mai trips run every few months ROUTES AND COST

The Eastern & Oriental 116

Express offers various trips in the region, including Bangkok– Singapore or Singapore–Bangkok (4 days/3 nights; from US$2,050 per person, twin share); Bangkok– Vientiane (3 days/2 nights; from US$1,450 per person, twin share) or Bangkok–Vientiane– Bangkok (4 days/3 nights; from US$1,805 per person, twin share); Bangkok– Chiang Mai or Chiang Mai–Bangkok (2 days/1 night; from US$1,300 per person, twin share);

Bangkok–Chiang Mai– Bangkok (4 days/3 nights; from US$1,710 per person, twin share); Chiang Mai– Bangkok–Singapore (7 nights/8 days; from US$2,850 per person, twin share).

WHAT YOU GET

All meals; sightseeing tours; two nights’ accommodation at The Peninsula Bangkok in a standard room; and transfers both to and from the hotel for guests who are booking a state compartment.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M M A I N I M A G E : M I T C H E L L N G U Y E N M C C O R M A C K ( 2 ) ; FA H S A K H A R E T ( 3 )

Luxury on Wheels Clockwise from top left: The Eastern & Oriental Express at Bangkok; a waiter prepares for service in the dining car; tables set for dinner in the dining car; a dining car table; a luxury passenger compartment.

117

SOUTHEAST ASIA TIME TRAVEL THE EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS is one of the world’s great train journeys. This ride, over hundreds of kilometers of track, is everything you expect from romantic train travel, complete with all the excitement of classic travel and soft adventure.

The Eastern & Oriental Express is an 80-kilometer-per-hour luxury hotel on rails. For Southeast Asia, it is one of the rare train journeys you can make in comfort and style.

Forget bullet trains and space-age monorails, this is the only way to travel by track.

Watching the complexity of the varying landscapes unfurl in a constant moving picture as you travel through Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand is both mesmerizing and deeply rewarding, as you get a

chance to appreciate the beauty of the ground you cover. You can’t help but lament the loss of charm and majesty in modern travel.

The journey passes through some of Asia’s most storied destinations.

There’s Penang, where you can stroll through the busy marketplaces or travel by trishaw and see the historic city firsthand. Then there’s the River Kwai Bridge Station in Thailand, where guides escort you on a cruise along the Kwai Yai River, passing under the historic bridge, while the Don Rak War Cemetery, set among lush lawns, provides a poignant backdrop.

There are few journeys like this in today’s world. Climb aboard and you’ll return to a quieter, gentler time, where opulence and dignity were the hallmarks of the day.

GUIDE TO THE E&O EXPRESS HOW TO BOOK

Eastern & Oriental Express

65/6392-3500; www. orient-express.com.

TIMETABLE

Trips from Singapore to Bangkok and Bangkok to Singapore run between two and four times a month.

The Bangkok to Vientiane and Bangkok to Chiang Mai trips run every few months ROUTES AND COST

The Eastern & Oriental 116

Express offers various trips in the region, including Bangkok– Singapore or Singapore–Bangkok (4 days/3 nights; from US$2,050 per person, twin share); Bangkok– Vientiane (3 days/2 nights; from US$1,450 per person, twin share) or Bangkok–Vientiane– Bangkok (4 days/3 nights; from US$1,805 per person, twin share); Bangkok– Chiang Mai or Chiang Mai–Bangkok (2 days/1 night; from US$1,300 per person, twin share);

Bangkok–Chiang Mai– Bangkok (4 days/3 nights; from US$1,710 per person, twin share); Chiang Mai– Bangkok–Singapore (7 nights/8 days; from US$2,850 per person, twin share).

WHAT YOU GET

All meals; sightseeing tours; two nights’ accommodation at The Peninsula Bangkok in a standard room; and transfers both to and from the hotel for guests who are booking a state compartment.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M M A I N I M A G E : M I T C H E L L N G U Y E N M C C O R M A C K ( 2 ) ; FA H S A K H A R E T ( 3 )

Luxury on Wheels Clockwise from top left: The Eastern & Oriental Express at Bangkok; a waiter prepares for service in the dining car; tables set for dinner in the dining car; a dining car table; a luxury passenger compartment.

117

SRI PANWA RESORT CLAIMS IT CAN deliver a holiday experience with a personal and customized touch. But this is a claim made by many a hotel, so how does this experience set itself apart? It starts by offering stunning vistas of the Andaman Sea, then takes you soaring high into the sky for a guided tour where you call the shots.

Take in the sights from thousands of meters above and, when you spot a deserted island that takes your fancy, by all means have a closer look. Here’s how it works: below you, out of the endless blue, a small dot appears over the horizon. Over the gentle hum of the propeller prop you turn to the pilot, point your finger and say “there.”

Your seaplane swoops down for a spectacular beachfront landing, and before you know it you’re enjoying a light lunch on the sandy shores. If you want, you can stick around for a private spa treatment.

Or go fishing and snare some tuna for a sashimi supper.

Backing up the aerial transport is

118

the resort’s luxury fleet, which will sail you to the Similan Islands for snorkeling and diving expeditions led by expert guides.

Set foot on the powdery sand and explore the underwater landscape while a chef prepares lunch on board. Barbequed lobster, champagne and oysters are just some of the tempting treats that await.

Things get considerably Bondesque as you spot your plane in the sky, coming towards you, setting down smoothly alongside the yacht.

Shrug off your wetsuit and hop back onboard for a quick glide over to the Phi Phi islands or return to the resort for a sumptuous dinner.

With just 20 villas on the southeastern coast of Thailand’s largest island, each villa has its own infinity swimming pool with a Jacuzzi. At sunset, the Andaman Sea beckons you to return to the yacht.

And as the sun sets, you can sink into a deep massage from the onboard masseuse. A reminder that you’re always in good hands here.

C LO C KW I S E F RO M M A I N I M AG E : CO U RT E SY O F S R I PA N WA ( 2 ) ; K E V I N M I L L E R / D R E A M ST I M E ; CO U RT E SY O F S R I PA N WA ( 2 )

THAILAND FLYING HIGH WITH STYLE

Emerald Seas Clockwise from left: A long-tail boat, a common sight around Phuket; ready for dinner in a spectacular setting at Sri panwa; luxuriant Phi Phi island from the air; a seaplane ready for takeoff from Sri panwa; one of the resort’s infinity pools.

GUIDE TO SRI PANWA HOW TO BOOK

Sri panwa 88 Moo 8,

Sikdidej Rd.; 66-76/371000; www.sripanwa.com.

THE RESORT

Sri panwa is an intimate, beautifully appointed boutique hotel perched above the Andaman Sea, on Cape Panwa, in southeastern Phuket.

Villas offer amazing sea views and infinity pools that stretch over the terraced grounds.

WHEN TO GO

December to February is

the best time to visit Phuket, with relatively mild temperatures and little, if any, rain. March to May is the hottest time of the year, with frequent short, heavy bursts of rain.

HOW TO GET THERE

Thai Airways has numerous daily flights from Bangkok; Nok Air, and AirAsia also fly from Bangkok; Malaysian Airlines and AirAsia fly from Kuala Lumpur; Silk Air and Singapore Airlines fly

from Singapore; and Dragonair flies from Hong Kong.

WHAT IT COSTS

Doubles, starting from Bt295,800, include four nights’ stay in a onebedroom pool villa for two; daily à la carte breakfast; a Sri panwa exclusive gift set; airport return transfer; a spa treatment for two; an upgrade to an ocean view pool villa; and a seaplane return trip to/ from Phang Nga Bay– Krabi–Similan Islands.

119

SRI PANWA RESORT CLAIMS IT CAN deliver a holiday experience with a personal and customized touch. But this is a claim made by many a hotel, so how does this experience set itself apart? It starts by offering stunning vistas of the Andaman Sea, then takes you soaring high into the sky for a guided tour where you call the shots.

Take in the sights from thousands of meters above and, when you spot a deserted island that takes your fancy, by all means have a closer look. Here’s how it works: below you, out of the endless blue, a small dot appears over the horizon. Over the gentle hum of the propeller prop you turn to the pilot, point your finger and say “there.”

Your seaplane swoops down for a spectacular beachfront landing, and before you know it you’re enjoying a light lunch on the sandy shores. If you want, you can stick around for a private spa treatment.

Or go fishing and snare some tuna for a sashimi supper.

Backing up the aerial transport is

118

the resort’s luxury fleet, which will sail you to the Similan Islands for snorkeling and diving expeditions led by expert guides.

Set foot on the powdery sand and explore the underwater landscape while a chef prepares lunch on board. Barbequed lobster, champagne and oysters are just some of the tempting treats that await.

Things get considerably Bondesque as you spot your plane in the sky, coming towards you, setting down smoothly alongside the yacht.

Shrug off your wetsuit and hop back onboard for a quick glide over to the Phi Phi islands or return to the resort for a sumptuous dinner.

With just 20 villas on the southeastern coast of Thailand’s largest island, each villa has its own infinity swimming pool with a Jacuzzi. At sunset, the Andaman Sea beckons you to return to the yacht.

And as the sun sets, you can sink into a deep massage from the onboard masseuse. A reminder that you’re always in good hands here.

C LO C KW I S E F RO M M A I N I M AG E : CO U RT E SY O F S R I PA N WA ( 2 ) ; K E V I N M I L L E R / D R E A M ST I M E ; CO U RT E SY O F S R I PA N WA ( 2 )

THAILAND FLYING HIGH WITH STYLE

Emerald Seas Clockwise from left: A long-tail boat, a common sight around Phuket; ready for dinner in a spectacular setting at Sri panwa; luxuriant Phi Phi island from the air; a seaplane ready for takeoff from Sri panwa; one of the resort’s infinity pools.

GUIDE TO SRI PANWA HOW TO BOOK

Sri panwa 88 Moo 8,

Sikdidej Rd.; 66-76/371000; www.sripanwa.com.

THE RESORT

Sri panwa is an intimate, beautifully appointed boutique hotel perched above the Andaman Sea, on Cape Panwa, in southeastern Phuket.

Villas offer amazing sea views and infinity pools that stretch over the terraced grounds.

WHEN TO GO

December to February is

the best time to visit Phuket, with relatively mild temperatures and little, if any, rain. March to May is the hottest time of the year, with frequent short, heavy bursts of rain.

HOW TO GET THERE

Thai Airways has numerous daily flights from Bangkok; Nok Air, and AirAsia also fly from Bangkok; Malaysian Airlines and AirAsia fly from Kuala Lumpur; Silk Air and Singapore Airlines fly

from Singapore; and Dragonair flies from Hong Kong.

WHAT IT COSTS

Doubles, starting from Bt295,800, include four nights’ stay in a onebedroom pool villa for two; daily à la carte breakfast; a Sri panwa exclusive gift set; airport return transfer; a spa treatment for two; an upgrade to an ocean view pool villa; and a seaplane return trip to/ from Phang Nga Bay– Krabi–Similan Islands.

119

Muslim girls wearing hijabs and kimonos at the Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre. Opposite: The Petronas Twin Towers’ skybridge.

KL COMES OFAGE With exciting eateries, bars and hotels, there’s a new spring in Kuala Lumpur’s step. LORIEN HOLLAND maps out a city on the rise. Photographed by KEVIN MILLER

120

Muslim girls wearing hijabs and kimonos at the Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre. Opposite: The Petronas Twin Towers’ skybridge.

KL COMES OFAGE With exciting eateries, bars and hotels, there’s a new spring in Kuala Lumpur’s step. LORIEN HOLLAND maps out a city on the rise. Photographed by KEVIN MILLER

120

I

HAVE BEEN LIVING IN KUALA LUMPUR for the past seven years

WHEN TO GO Kuala Lumpur is only three degrees off the equator, so year-round temperatures vary little. It’s humid, rains regularly (usually in the afternoons) and maximum temperatures hover around 32 degrees most days.

GETTING THERE Malaysian Airlines and all major Asian carriers fly to Kuala Lumpur. The airport is also the hub for budget carrier AirAsia. Trains or buses from Singapore take five to six hours.

City on the Move Clockwise from top left: Kuala Lumpur’s monorail; two locals show off their street style in Kuala Lumpur’s stylish neighborhood of Bukit Bintang; alfresco dining at Bukit Bintang; commuters taking the city’s subway.

M A P BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N

and seen the city emerge from the doldrums of the Asian financial crisis. I have seen her survive the transition from 22 years of rule by Prime Minister Dr. Mahathir Mohamed and into a more democratic space of her own. And now, I feel confident in stating that this city—affectionately known as KL—has stepped out of the shadows. The butterfly is out of its chrysalis.

“There has been a breakthrough,” says Edward Hyde, managing director of Gastrodome, one of the largest independent restaurant operators in Kuala Lumpur. “When I came here from Harvey Nichols in London back in 1997, there was only one stylish, independent restaurant in town.”

Of course, now there are dozens of stylish joints. Hyde himself has establishments in both downtown happening spots— Bukit Bintang and Asian Heritage Row. On the fine-dining front, the Malaysia Tatler Best Restaurants of 2008 added 15 new entries to this year’s listings, which is a 25 percent jump.

And it’s not just food that has taken off: bars, clubs, bands, fashion, design, art, theater, even filmmaking have improved in recent years. The Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre opened in January and attracted thousands, with performances of classical ballet, modern dance, gamelan, rock music, play readings and short films.

Belgian pop artist Sandra Knuyt has seen Kuala Lumpur change dramatically over the past 11 years. She now divides her time between Malaysia and the Caribbean, between the urban excitement of Kuala Lumpur and the calm of the islands. “They both share the tropical weather, the kind people, the beautiful light that I need to paint,” she says. Her current inspirations are Caribbean. “But Malaysia is relevant in that it provides me with the right environment to paint, design and execute my work in the desired way.” »

122

123

I

HAVE BEEN LIVING IN KUALA LUMPUR for the past seven years

WHEN TO GO Kuala Lumpur is only three degrees off the equator, so year-round temperatures vary little. It’s humid, rains regularly (usually in the afternoons) and maximum temperatures hover around 32 degrees most days.

GETTING THERE Malaysian Airlines and all major Asian carriers fly to Kuala Lumpur. The airport is also the hub for budget carrier AirAsia. Trains or buses from Singapore take five to six hours.

City on the Move Clockwise from top left: Kuala Lumpur’s monorail; two locals show off their street style in Kuala Lumpur’s stylish neighborhood of Bukit Bintang; alfresco dining at Bukit Bintang; commuters taking the city’s subway.

M A P BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N

and seen the city emerge from the doldrums of the Asian financial crisis. I have seen her survive the transition from 22 years of rule by Prime Minister Dr. Mahathir Mohamed and into a more democratic space of her own. And now, I feel confident in stating that this city—affectionately known as KL—has stepped out of the shadows. The butterfly is out of its chrysalis.

“There has been a breakthrough,” says Edward Hyde, managing director of Gastrodome, one of the largest independent restaurant operators in Kuala Lumpur. “When I came here from Harvey Nichols in London back in 1997, there was only one stylish, independent restaurant in town.”

Of course, now there are dozens of stylish joints. Hyde himself has establishments in both downtown happening spots— Bukit Bintang and Asian Heritage Row. On the fine-dining front, the Malaysia Tatler Best Restaurants of 2008 added 15 new entries to this year’s listings, which is a 25 percent jump.

And it’s not just food that has taken off: bars, clubs, bands, fashion, design, art, theater, even filmmaking have improved in recent years. The Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre opened in January and attracted thousands, with performances of classical ballet, modern dance, gamelan, rock music, play readings and short films.

Belgian pop artist Sandra Knuyt has seen Kuala Lumpur change dramatically over the past 11 years. She now divides her time between Malaysia and the Caribbean, between the urban excitement of Kuala Lumpur and the calm of the islands. “They both share the tropical weather, the kind people, the beautiful light that I need to paint,” she says. Her current inspirations are Caribbean. “But Malaysia is relevant in that it provides me with the right environment to paint, design and execute my work in the desired way.” »

122

123

THIS FASCINATING, DECIDEDLY MODEST TOWN

CENTER LOST ITS PROMINENCE IN THE 1970â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

People and Places The ultra-chic Bed club in Asian Heritage Row, a nightclub area in KL. Above: A playful local wielding a bubble gun.

Opposite, top: The sleek SkyBar at the Traders Hotel.

Below: A local taking a few passengers, including three felines, out for a ride on his scooter.

THIS FASCINATING, DECIDEDLY MODEST TOWN

CENTER LOST ITS PROMINENCE IN THE 1970â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S

People and Places The ultra-chic Bed club in Asian Heritage Row, a nightclub area in KL. Above: A playful local wielding a bubble gun.

Opposite, top: The sleek SkyBar at the Traders Hotel.

Below: A local taking a few passengers, including three felines, out for a ride on his scooter.

Just so that you get an idea of the magnitude of change, let me fill you in on a few basic details about Kuala Lumpur. It started out in 1857 as a huddle of wooden shacks for tin miners on a spur of land between two rivers. Warring factions razed the settlement in 1872.

But tin was increasingly valuable and Kuala Lumpur was rebuilt. As it grew in importance, the Sultan of Selangor relocated here, as did the colonial British Resident.

When the 1900’s began, this new boomtown was a vigorous melting pot of different peoples, none of whom could claim outright ownership. The native Malays came from different parts of the peninsula and Sumatra. The Chinese were largely economic migrants from the south of China, and there was also a sizeable Indian population made up of colonial administrators and rubber estate workers who had been drafted in by the British.

Then, of course, there were the British.

All of these competing influences can be seen in the distinct Malay, Chinese, Indian and colonial zones of the old center, which remain to this day, and are a good starting point for getting a grip on the city.

Perhaps the best spot to start is an early-morning rendezvous at Merdeka Square, which is the old colonial cricket ground. It is flanked by the members-only Royal Selangor Club, the Anglican St. Mary’s Cathedral and a beautiful Moorish-style town hall. To the south is the National Mosque. To the west is the calm haven of the Lake Gardens. A stone’s throw to the east, the roads narrow considerably and the commercial activity of Chinatown kicks off. To the north is Little India, with its flamboyant fabric stalls and Indian Muslim cafés crammed into a few blocks.

This fascinating but decidedly modest town center lost its prominence in the 1970’s when Kuala Lumpur boomed again on new offshore petroleum finds and high global prices for palm oil and rubber. Tower blocks started to rise in a new part of town, near the horseracing track. In 1998, the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, designed by the ArgentineAmerican architect Cesar Pelli, was completed on the former racetrack. This firmly moved Kuala Lumpur’s center to this new part of town, which is now commonly known as the Golden Triangle.

Several years of downtime followed as the 1997 Asian financial crisis left buildings incomplete and new projects on ice. But by 2005, things were definitely on the up. With petroleum and palm oil prices once again at record highs, the economy has remained buoyant. Now, new real estate projects are more distinctive and innovative, Malaysian singers edgier, artists bolder; even traditional crafts like basketry and batik have seen breakthroughs in design and function. And racial tensions and inequities, long swept under the carpet during the authoritarian Mahathir years, have been aired in street demonstrations. To me, all this signals a new maturity and a realization that the cultural jumble that makes up Malaysia is a good thing.

“We are exposed to so many cultural streams in Malaysia,” says Eddie Chew, co-owner of the Frangipani restaurant and bar on Changkat Bukit Bintang, in the Bukit Bintang area. “We can understand all kinds of Asian food and many of us have traveled and gone to school in Europe, so we can understand that side too.”

Frangipani has a pared-back feel in its top-rated dining room, where tables are arranged around a sleek rectangular black pool and the walls are covered in perforated steel panels.

Chef Chris Bauer is from Luxembourg and gives detailed explanations about all of his offerings. Like the foie gras, quail leg and salted hazelnut brittle, which started as a Christmas special but morphed into a firm favorite. Or the deep-fried, mint-crusted lamb chop. “When Chris said he was going to do it, I freaked out,” says Chew. “I thought it was going to be horrible and greasy. But actually, it is very good.”

Chew has just overseen the total revamp of his upstairs bars, with a decadent/funky theme that exudes more confidence than the first fit-out seven years ago. In fact, seven years ago, the Art Deco building that houses Frangipani was all but derelict and there were only a few other restaurants on the strip. Now, there are plenty. For the best of the bunch, you could try Twentyone, with its slick upstairs bar, bubble tank and DJ. A bit up the » 126

WHERE TO STAY Mandarin Oriental KLCC; 60-3/2380-8888; www. mandarinoriental.com/ kualalumpur; doubles from RM559.

Carcosa Seri Negara Taman Tasik Perdana; 60-3/22950888; www.ghmhotels.com; junior suites from RM900.

Westin One of the newer five-star hotels in town.

199 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 603/2731-8333; www.westin. com; doubles from RM449.

Hilton 3 Jln. Stesen Sentral; 60-3/2264-2264; www.hilton. com.my; doubles from RM450.

Number Eight Guesthouse 8 Tengkat Tong Shin; 60-3/21442050; www.numbereight.com. my; doubles from RM85.

The Ritz-Carlton 168 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2142-8000; www. ritzcarlton.com; doubles from RM600.

The Villas at Sunway Resort Hotel & Spa A secluded retreat nestled within a 325hectare tropical garden.

Persiaran Lagoon, Bandar Sunway, 46150 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Darul Ehsan; 60-3/7495-1646; www. sunwayhotels.com; standard villas from RM2,500.

On the Town Clockwise from top left: Inside the Bijan restaurant, which serves Malay food in modern settings; a DJ spins at Zouk, one of KL’s best nightclubs; diners gathered outside the Sao Nam restaurant; locals pose for a picture at Times Square shopping mall.

127

Just so that you get an idea of the magnitude of change, let me fill you in on a few basic details about Kuala Lumpur. It started out in 1857 as a huddle of wooden shacks for tin miners on a spur of land between two rivers. Warring factions razed the settlement in 1872.

But tin was increasingly valuable and Kuala Lumpur was rebuilt. As it grew in importance, the Sultan of Selangor relocated here, as did the colonial British Resident.

When the 1900’s began, this new boomtown was a vigorous melting pot of different peoples, none of whom could claim outright ownership. The native Malays came from different parts of the peninsula and Sumatra. The Chinese were largely economic migrants from the south of China, and there was also a sizeable Indian population made up of colonial administrators and rubber estate workers who had been drafted in by the British.

Then, of course, there were the British.

All of these competing influences can be seen in the distinct Malay, Chinese, Indian and colonial zones of the old center, which remain to this day, and are a good starting point for getting a grip on the city.

Perhaps the best spot to start is an early-morning rendezvous at Merdeka Square, which is the old colonial cricket ground. It is flanked by the members-only Royal Selangor Club, the Anglican St. Mary’s Cathedral and a beautiful Moorish-style town hall. To the south is the National Mosque. To the west is the calm haven of the Lake Gardens. A stone’s throw to the east, the roads narrow considerably and the commercial activity of Chinatown kicks off. To the north is Little India, with its flamboyant fabric stalls and Indian Muslim cafés crammed into a few blocks.

This fascinating but decidedly modest town center lost its prominence in the 1970’s when Kuala Lumpur boomed again on new offshore petroleum finds and high global prices for palm oil and rubber. Tower blocks started to rise in a new part of town, near the horseracing track. In 1998, the iconic Petronas Twin Towers, designed by the ArgentineAmerican architect Cesar Pelli, was completed on the former racetrack. This firmly moved Kuala Lumpur’s center to this new part of town, which is now commonly known as the Golden Triangle.

Several years of downtime followed as the 1997 Asian financial crisis left buildings incomplete and new projects on ice. But by 2005, things were definitely on the up. With petroleum and palm oil prices once again at record highs, the economy has remained buoyant. Now, new real estate projects are more distinctive and innovative, Malaysian singers edgier, artists bolder; even traditional crafts like basketry and batik have seen breakthroughs in design and function. And racial tensions and inequities, long swept under the carpet during the authoritarian Mahathir years, have been aired in street demonstrations. To me, all this signals a new maturity and a realization that the cultural jumble that makes up Malaysia is a good thing.

“We are exposed to so many cultural streams in Malaysia,” says Eddie Chew, co-owner of the Frangipani restaurant and bar on Changkat Bukit Bintang, in the Bukit Bintang area. “We can understand all kinds of Asian food and many of us have traveled and gone to school in Europe, so we can understand that side too.”

Frangipani has a pared-back feel in its top-rated dining room, where tables are arranged around a sleek rectangular black pool and the walls are covered in perforated steel panels.

Chef Chris Bauer is from Luxembourg and gives detailed explanations about all of his offerings. Like the foie gras, quail leg and salted hazelnut brittle, which started as a Christmas special but morphed into a firm favorite. Or the deep-fried, mint-crusted lamb chop. “When Chris said he was going to do it, I freaked out,” says Chew. “I thought it was going to be horrible and greasy. But actually, it is very good.”

Chew has just overseen the total revamp of his upstairs bars, with a decadent/funky theme that exudes more confidence than the first fit-out seven years ago. In fact, seven years ago, the Art Deco building that houses Frangipani was all but derelict and there were only a few other restaurants on the strip. Now, there are plenty. For the best of the bunch, you could try Twentyone, with its slick upstairs bar, bubble tank and DJ. A bit up the » 126

WHERE TO STAY Mandarin Oriental KLCC; 60-3/2380-8888; www. mandarinoriental.com/ kualalumpur; doubles from RM559.

Carcosa Seri Negara Taman Tasik Perdana; 60-3/22950888; www.ghmhotels.com; junior suites from RM900.

Westin One of the newer five-star hotels in town.

199 Jln. Bukit Bintang; 603/2731-8333; www.westin. com; doubles from RM449.

Hilton 3 Jln. Stesen Sentral; 60-3/2264-2264; www.hilton. com.my; doubles from RM450.

Number Eight Guesthouse 8 Tengkat Tong Shin; 60-3/21442050; www.numbereight.com. my; doubles from RM85.

The Ritz-Carlton 168 Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2142-8000; www. ritzcarlton.com; doubles from RM600.

The Villas at Sunway Resort Hotel & Spa A secluded retreat nestled within a 325hectare tropical garden.

Persiaran Lagoon, Bandar Sunway, 46150 Petaling Jaya, Selangor Darul Ehsan; 60-3/7495-1646; www. sunwayhotels.com; standard villas from RM2,500.

On the Town Clockwise from top left: Inside the Bijan restaurant, which serves Malay food in modern settings; a DJ spins at Zouk, one of KL’s best nightclubs; diners gathered outside the Sao Nam restaurant; locals pose for a picture at Times Square shopping mall.

127

hill are Nero Vivo, a modern Italian restaurant that consistently pulls in the crowds, and Bijan, a rare upmarket Malay restaurant that serves alcohol.

If you go back down the hill and turn right onto Tengkat Tong Shin, you will find two delightful restorations of old Asian shophouses. First is Sao Nam, in traditional yellow and decorated with socialist realist art. The chefs are from Hanoi and the food is the real Vietnamese thing. Charismatic owner Paul Liao is at hand most evenings to ensure all the details and service are perfect.

On the other side of the street and a bit further along is the Number Eight Guesthouse, done in olive green. This is Kuala Lumpur’s first boutique hotel of note. It opened in 2005, aiming at budget travelers wanting some style. After two booked-out years, its owners are taking out its cheaper dormitories and upgrading everything to make all the rooms ensuite.

“We did not really anticipate such strong demand for our most upmarket rooms,” says co-owner Rudy Shaff.

But it seems that travelers are looking for boutique with a Malaysian accent and some contemporary style to boot. “We get a lot of people who don’t want to stay in impersonal business hotels,” says Shaff. “In fact, we have people who would stay for a long, long time if we would let them.” With fine-dining options just up the hill, and the quintessential night market feel of the Chinese restaurants on nearby Jalan Alor, you can see why.

Malaysia’s premium shopping strip, Jalan Bukit Bintang, is also just around the corner.

It starts out kind of seedy, with plenty of rip-off software stalls and cut-price electronics, but as you go past Sungei Wang Plaza, and under the monorail line, the big money starts to kick in. The JW Marriott, Westin and Ritz-Carlton are clustered around the new kid on the block—the ritzy Pavilion Shopping Centre, which opened in September 2007. It has the first Coach flagship store in the region and the first Malaysian outings for Hong Kong’s Shanghai Tang, London’s Thomas Pink and New York’s Kiehls.

Also within the Golden Triangle are the Shangri-La and Mandarin Oriental hotels, and the city’s other premium shopping center, Suria KLCC, which is right under the Petronas Twin Towers. It is home to established Malaysian designers and home-ware companies, as well at global brands like Tiffany’s and Gucci.

As you can imagine, there is also a very high concentration of eating spots in this Golden Triangle. As Malaysia is bombarded from several cultural directions, there is a fantastic variety of food of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Portuguese origins. Food courts in the Pavilion and Suria KLCC are excellent places to try out some of the options. Otherwise, try SevenAteNine in the Ascot, Lai Po Heen in the Mandarin Oriental, or Qing Zhen at the Novotel Hydro Majestic. These shopping centers and nearby hotels are also surprisingly excellent places for top-notch restaurants and fine dining.

“It’s a Malaysian thing to eat out in shopping centers and hotels,” says Gastrodome’s Hyde. “There is the convenience of parking and safety. You don’t have to use some dodgy valet parking on the street, and people aren’t really prepared to come out in their finery unless there is the safety of a hotel.”

Hyde recently moved one of his Spanish tapas bars from Tengkat Tong Shin into the Pavilion Shopping Centre for exactly this reason. And the city’s tiptop dining spots still remain in hotels—the Third Floor in the JW Marriott exudes pared-down style and Pacific Rim fusion done to perfection. Lafite, in the Shangri-La, does opulent French style and substance. The Hilton’s Senses restaurant is another fusion extravaganza. When I say Hilton, I mean one of those new, sexy Hiltons—the ones with 42-inch plasma TV’s in the guest rooms. It is not actually in the Golden Triangle, but at KL Sentral railway station.

This makes for very convenient journeys on the airport express, but not for downtown. Still, it has the excellent Zeta Bar and Iketeru Japanese Restaurant.

The Hilton is also near to the Lake Gardens and the colonial splendor of Carcosa Seri Negara. The suites at this top-dollar hotel are divine and even hosted Queen Elizabeth II in 1989. The Sunday lunch curry tiffin by Gulai House on the verandah is hard to beat, but you need to order transport well in advance, or you can find yourself in glorious » 128

WHERE TO SHOP Suria KLCC Shopping Centre Located right under the Petronas Twin Towers, this premium shopping center carries all the big international brands. KLCC; www.suriaklcc.com.my.

The Pavilion Shopping Centre Aiming to be the equivalent of Tokyo’s Ginza district. Jln. Bukit Bintang; www.pavilion-kl.com.

Plaza Sungei Wang Wacky fashions, phones, shoes — just about everything. Young crowd. Jln. Bukit Bintang; www.sungeiwang.com.

WHAT TO DO Petronas Twin Towers The skybridge that links the two buildings, at 170 meters, is open for visits. 60-3/20511320; free.

Muzium Negara Malaysia’s main museum has just undergone a refit. Jln. Damansara; 60-3/2282-6255; www.museum.gov.my.

IN MALAYSIA, THERE’S FANTASTIC VARIETY

Petaling Street Market From mid-afternoon until late, this market in Chinatown peddles food, fabrics and fakes.

Malay Muslim girls wearing hijabs stroll down a street. Above: Friday prayers at Masjid Jamek.

hill are Nero Vivo, a modern Italian restaurant that consistently pulls in the crowds, and Bijan, a rare upmarket Malay restaurant that serves alcohol.

If you go back down the hill and turn right onto Tengkat Tong Shin, you will find two delightful restorations of old Asian shophouses. First is Sao Nam, in traditional yellow and decorated with socialist realist art. The chefs are from Hanoi and the food is the real Vietnamese thing. Charismatic owner Paul Liao is at hand most evenings to ensure all the details and service are perfect.

On the other side of the street and a bit further along is the Number Eight Guesthouse, done in olive green. This is Kuala Lumpur’s first boutique hotel of note. It opened in 2005, aiming at budget travelers wanting some style. After two booked-out years, its owners are taking out its cheaper dormitories and upgrading everything to make all the rooms ensuite.

“We did not really anticipate such strong demand for our most upmarket rooms,” says co-owner Rudy Shaff.

But it seems that travelers are looking for boutique with a Malaysian accent and some contemporary style to boot. “We get a lot of people who don’t want to stay in impersonal business hotels,” says Shaff. “In fact, we have people who would stay for a long, long time if we would let them.” With fine-dining options just up the hill, and the quintessential night market feel of the Chinese restaurants on nearby Jalan Alor, you can see why.

Malaysia’s premium shopping strip, Jalan Bukit Bintang, is also just around the corner.

It starts out kind of seedy, with plenty of rip-off software stalls and cut-price electronics, but as you go past Sungei Wang Plaza, and under the monorail line, the big money starts to kick in. The JW Marriott, Westin and Ritz-Carlton are clustered around the new kid on the block—the ritzy Pavilion Shopping Centre, which opened in September 2007. It has the first Coach flagship store in the region and the first Malaysian outings for Hong Kong’s Shanghai Tang, London’s Thomas Pink and New York’s Kiehls.

Also within the Golden Triangle are the Shangri-La and Mandarin Oriental hotels, and the city’s other premium shopping center, Suria KLCC, which is right under the Petronas Twin Towers. It is home to established Malaysian designers and home-ware companies, as well at global brands like Tiffany’s and Gucci.

As you can imagine, there is also a very high concentration of eating spots in this Golden Triangle. As Malaysia is bombarded from several cultural directions, there is a fantastic variety of food of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Portuguese origins. Food courts in the Pavilion and Suria KLCC are excellent places to try out some of the options. Otherwise, try SevenAteNine in the Ascot, Lai Po Heen in the Mandarin Oriental, or Qing Zhen at the Novotel Hydro Majestic. These shopping centers and nearby hotels are also surprisingly excellent places for top-notch restaurants and fine dining.

“It’s a Malaysian thing to eat out in shopping centers and hotels,” says Gastrodome’s Hyde. “There is the convenience of parking and safety. You don’t have to use some dodgy valet parking on the street, and people aren’t really prepared to come out in their finery unless there is the safety of a hotel.”

Hyde recently moved one of his Spanish tapas bars from Tengkat Tong Shin into the Pavilion Shopping Centre for exactly this reason. And the city’s tiptop dining spots still remain in hotels—the Third Floor in the JW Marriott exudes pared-down style and Pacific Rim fusion done to perfection. Lafite, in the Shangri-La, does opulent French style and substance. The Hilton’s Senses restaurant is another fusion extravaganza. When I say Hilton, I mean one of those new, sexy Hiltons—the ones with 42-inch plasma TV’s in the guest rooms. It is not actually in the Golden Triangle, but at KL Sentral railway station.

This makes for very convenient journeys on the airport express, but not for downtown. Still, it has the excellent Zeta Bar and Iketeru Japanese Restaurant.

The Hilton is also near to the Lake Gardens and the colonial splendor of Carcosa Seri Negara. The suites at this top-dollar hotel are divine and even hosted Queen Elizabeth II in 1989. The Sunday lunch curry tiffin by Gulai House on the verandah is hard to beat, but you need to order transport well in advance, or you can find yourself in glorious » 128

WHERE TO SHOP Suria KLCC Shopping Centre Located right under the Petronas Twin Towers, this premium shopping center carries all the big international brands. KLCC; www.suriaklcc.com.my.

The Pavilion Shopping Centre Aiming to be the equivalent of Tokyo’s Ginza district. Jln. Bukit Bintang; www.pavilion-kl.com.

Plaza Sungei Wang Wacky fashions, phones, shoes — just about everything. Young crowd. Jln. Bukit Bintang; www.sungeiwang.com.

WHAT TO DO Petronas Twin Towers The skybridge that links the two buildings, at 170 meters, is open for visits. 60-3/20511320; free.

Muzium Negara Malaysia’s main museum has just undergone a refit. Jln. Damansara; 60-3/2282-6255; www.museum.gov.my.

IN MALAYSIA, THERE’S FANTASTIC VARIETY

Petaling Street Market From mid-afternoon until late, this market in Chinatown peddles food, fabrics and fakes.

Malay Muslim girls wearing hijabs stroll down a street. Above: Friday prayers at Masjid Jamek.

the anchor tenant with Bar isolation from the KL groove.

SaVanh, a consistently good Fate has left the Carcosa intact, place to dance, chill and eat. but many other parts of the The Loft and Bed are two city have been swiftly demolother decent dance clubs on ished for new developments. the same street.

Most Malaysians do not seem If you’re after a super-sized particularly bothered about club, there really is only one this, but there is a small but option left in Kuala Lumpur, feisty band that is trying to as other large dance clubs in protect some of Kuala the center of town have been Lumpur’s past from destructorn down for tower block tion. William Ng, the brains developments. The 2,000behind Asian Heritage Row capacity Zouk, an offshoot next to the Sheraton Imperial from the Singaporean club in downtown KL, is among of the same name, is in a those individuals trying to slow futuristic-looking split-level the sometimes heedless rush monolith of a building. It is towards development. innovative, consistently pulls For two years, Ng walked the crowds and remains the past a derelict row of nonde- The well-stocked bar at Atrium, a club on Asian Heritage Row. place to be seen until 3 A.M. script pre-war shop lots on his way to work. He knew how the entertainment areas of Lan If all this sounds a bit hectic, head to the Luna Bar or the Kwai Fong in Hong Kong and Xin Tian Di in Shanghai had SkyBar for a relaxing drink. Both are outdoors, on the top of blossomed from similar bases. So he took a long-term lease dizzyingly tall buildings, as you might expect from the on the block and set about transforming it into a strip for the names. The SkyBar faces the Petronas Twin Towers and is younger crowd. There are now 18 bars, clubs and restau- easier to find. There, you can sip tasty cocktails, while sitting rants on the road and plans for more. Of course, it doesn’t back and taking in Kuala Lumpur at night. It’s a vertiginous hurt that the Sheraton Imperial is just across the road. Or view, but one that makes you appreciate the heights that this that IndoChine, the funky Singapore restaurant group, is city has climbed.

Out and About Clockwise from top left: Locals enjoying street food at Jalan Alor; the Twentyone Kitchen & Bar in Bukit Bintang; the entrance of the Bed nightclub on Asian Heritage Row; Rudy Shaff, one of the owners of Number Eight Guesthouse.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Frangipani 25 Changkat Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2144-3001; dinner for two RM240.

Lafite Shangri-La Hotel, Jln. Sultan Ismail; 60-3/2074-3900; dinner for two RM360.

Third Floor French cuisine with a Pacific Rim flavour. JW Marriott Hotel, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2141-3363; dinner for two RM300.

Senses Excellent vegetarian offerings. Hilton Hotel, KL Sentral; 60-3/2264-2492; dinner for two RM300.

Iketeru Refined Japanese fare in stylish surroundings. Hilton Hotel, KL Sentral; 60-3/2264-2880; dinner for two RM300.

SevenAteNine Downstairs bar.

9 Jln. Pinang; 60-3/2161-7789; dinner for two RM240.

130

Yu Jia Village Large, elegant Chinese restaurant. 51 Jln. Barat, off Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2143-9966; dinner for two RM160.

Nero Vivo Well-executed, delicious Italian cuisine. 3A Jln. Ceylon; 60-3/2070-3120; dinner for two RM160.

Lai Po Heen By far, the most stylish Chinese restaurant in town. Mandarin Oriental Hotel, KLCC; 60-3/2179-8885; dinner for two RM160.

Bijan Malay food served in a modern atmosphere. 3 Jln. Ceylon; 60-3/2031-3575; dinner for two RM160.

Qing Zhen Food from China’s Islamic cultures. Novotel Hydro Majestic, 2 Jln. Kia Peng; 603/2147-0888; dinner for two RM200.

Sao Nam Delightful and authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

25 Tengkat Tong Shin; 60-3/21441225; dinner for two RM160.

Gulai House Go for Sunday tiffin lunch on the verandah. Carcosa Seri Negara Hotel, Taman Tasik Perdana; 60-3/2295-0888; lunch for two RM200.

La Bodega Great tapas. 3rd floor, Pavilion Shopping Centre, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2148-8018; dinner for two RM100.

Luna Bar Groovy rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city.

34th floor, Menara Pan Global, Jln. Punchak; 60-3/2026-2211.

SkyBar Amazing views of the Petronas Twin Towers and the city. 33rd floor, Traders Hotel, KLCC; 60-3/2332-9888.

Twentyone Kitchen & Bar Stylishly simple dining down-

stairs, with a sophisticated bar upstairs. 21 Changkat Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2142-0021.

The C. Club Trendy Philippe Starck outdoor furniture and views down hip Bukit Bintang.

6th floor, Pavilion Shopping Centre, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2141-3160.

Zeta Bar Funky, intimate, expensive. Hilton Hotel, KL Sentral; 60-3/2264-2264.

Bar SaVanh (60-3/2721-2811); The Loft (60-3/2691-5668); and Bed (60-3/2693-1122) are good dance clubs on Asian Heritage Row. Jln. Doraisamy; www. asianheritagerow.com.

Zouk Kuala Lumpur’s unrivalled super club, with capacity for 2,000 revelers. 113 Jln. Ampang; 60-3/2171-1997.

131

the anchor tenant with Bar isolation from the KL groove.

SaVanh, a consistently good Fate has left the Carcosa intact, place to dance, chill and eat. but many other parts of the The Loft and Bed are two city have been swiftly demolother decent dance clubs on ished for new developments. the same street.

Most Malaysians do not seem If you’re after a super-sized particularly bothered about club, there really is only one this, but there is a small but option left in Kuala Lumpur, feisty band that is trying to as other large dance clubs in protect some of Kuala the center of town have been Lumpur’s past from destructorn down for tower block tion. William Ng, the brains developments. The 2,000behind Asian Heritage Row capacity Zouk, an offshoot next to the Sheraton Imperial from the Singaporean club in downtown KL, is among of the same name, is in a those individuals trying to slow futuristic-looking split-level the sometimes heedless rush monolith of a building. It is towards development. innovative, consistently pulls For two years, Ng walked the crowds and remains the past a derelict row of nonde- The well-stocked bar at Atrium, a club on Asian Heritage Row. place to be seen until 3 A.M. script pre-war shop lots on his way to work. He knew how the entertainment areas of Lan If all this sounds a bit hectic, head to the Luna Bar or the Kwai Fong in Hong Kong and Xin Tian Di in Shanghai had SkyBar for a relaxing drink. Both are outdoors, on the top of blossomed from similar bases. So he took a long-term lease dizzyingly tall buildings, as you might expect from the on the block and set about transforming it into a strip for the names. The SkyBar faces the Petronas Twin Towers and is younger crowd. There are now 18 bars, clubs and restau- easier to find. There, you can sip tasty cocktails, while sitting rants on the road and plans for more. Of course, it doesn’t back and taking in Kuala Lumpur at night. It’s a vertiginous hurt that the Sheraton Imperial is just across the road. Or view, but one that makes you appreciate the heights that this that IndoChine, the funky Singapore restaurant group, is city has climbed.

Out and About Clockwise from top left: Locals enjoying street food at Jalan Alor; the Twentyone Kitchen & Bar in Bukit Bintang; the entrance of the Bed nightclub on Asian Heritage Row; Rudy Shaff, one of the owners of Number Eight Guesthouse.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Frangipani 25 Changkat Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2144-3001; dinner for two RM240.

Lafite Shangri-La Hotel, Jln. Sultan Ismail; 60-3/2074-3900; dinner for two RM360.

Third Floor French cuisine with a Pacific Rim flavour. JW Marriott Hotel, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2141-3363; dinner for two RM300.

Senses Excellent vegetarian offerings. Hilton Hotel, KL Sentral; 60-3/2264-2492; dinner for two RM300.

Iketeru Refined Japanese fare in stylish surroundings. Hilton Hotel, KL Sentral; 60-3/2264-2880; dinner for two RM300.

SevenAteNine Downstairs bar.

9 Jln. Pinang; 60-3/2161-7789; dinner for two RM240.

130

Yu Jia Village Large, elegant Chinese restaurant. 51 Jln. Barat, off Jln. Imbi; 60-3/2143-9966; dinner for two RM160.

Nero Vivo Well-executed, delicious Italian cuisine. 3A Jln. Ceylon; 60-3/2070-3120; dinner for two RM160.

Lai Po Heen By far, the most stylish Chinese restaurant in town. Mandarin Oriental Hotel, KLCC; 60-3/2179-8885; dinner for two RM160.

Bijan Malay food served in a modern atmosphere. 3 Jln. Ceylon; 60-3/2031-3575; dinner for two RM160.

Qing Zhen Food from China’s Islamic cultures. Novotel Hydro Majestic, 2 Jln. Kia Peng; 603/2147-0888; dinner for two RM200.

Sao Nam Delightful and authentic Vietnamese cuisine.

25 Tengkat Tong Shin; 60-3/21441225; dinner for two RM160.

Gulai House Go for Sunday tiffin lunch on the verandah. Carcosa Seri Negara Hotel, Taman Tasik Perdana; 60-3/2295-0888; lunch for two RM200.

La Bodega Great tapas. 3rd floor, Pavilion Shopping Centre, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2148-8018; dinner for two RM100.

Luna Bar Groovy rooftop bar with fabulous views over the city.

34th floor, Menara Pan Global, Jln. Punchak; 60-3/2026-2211.

SkyBar Amazing views of the Petronas Twin Towers and the city. 33rd floor, Traders Hotel, KLCC; 60-3/2332-9888.

Twentyone Kitchen & Bar Stylishly simple dining down-

stairs, with a sophisticated bar upstairs. 21 Changkat Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2142-0021.

The C. Club Trendy Philippe Starck outdoor furniture and views down hip Bukit Bintang.

6th floor, Pavilion Shopping Centre, Jln. Bukit Bintang; 60-3/2141-3160.

Zeta Bar Funky, intimate, expensive. Hilton Hotel, KL Sentral; 60-3/2264-2264.

Bar SaVanh (60-3/2721-2811); The Loft (60-3/2691-5668); and Bed (60-3/2693-1122) are good dance clubs on Asian Heritage Row. Jln. Doraisamy; www. asianheritagerow.com.

Zouk Kuala Lumpur’s unrivalled super club, with capacity for 2,000 revelers. 113 Jln. Ampang; 60-3/2171-1997.

131

The entrance to Eureka Farm, in Scamander. Opposite: Oysters on the half shell at the Apsley Gorge vineyard, in northeast Tasmania.

PURE RE TASMANIA

On Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s island state, STEPHEN METCALF finds the cleanest air and water on the planet, miraculously varied landscapes and a gourmet paradise. Photographed by HUGH STEWART

The entrance to Eureka Farm, in Scamander. Opposite: Oysters on the half shell at the Apsley Gorge vineyard, in northeast Tasmania.

PURE RE TASMANIA

On Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s island state, STEPHEN METCALF finds the cleanest air and water on the planet, miraculously varied landscapes and a gourmet paradise. Photographed by HUGH STEWART

O

UR SUMMER PUDDING is the best in Tasmania,” the proprietress

assured me. I had pulled off the highway to eat at Eureka, a tiny fruit and berry farm a kilometer or so from the Tasmanian coast. The sign promised an array of bests—the best ice cream, the best fresh berries, and the sign didn’t lie. When I visited in November, spring in Australia, the strawberries had just come in. They were small, but piercing in their sweetness, and easily the best I had ever tasted. Eureka, it turns out, is blessed with its own perfect berry-growing climate, a little eucalyptus forest consisting mainly of blue and white gums. Here Ann and Denis Buchanan plant and harvest, and make their own jams and chutneys. Ann clucked over me as I greedily downed their pudding, a tart mash of berries and bread; then Denis, a prickly graybeard in overalls, showed me around. “We’re the real McCoy,” he tells me, in contrast with some other outfits that sneak in outside fruit. “It’s a boutique operation, alright. Our advertising is hopeless. We live by reputation alone.”

The stop came as a relief. Driving up the east coast of Tasmania, I worried my senses were leaving me, so hallucinatory was the beauty of the landscape. To my right flowed softly undulating dunes covered in banksias and bearded heath. Beyond these lay catchments of water sheltered from the open Tasman Sea in dune swales and coastal lagoons. As I pushed north, toward Great Oyster Bay and the Freycinet Peninsula, there were long, deserted stretches of pristine white-sand beaches, broken up only by looming granite outcrops, by the pates of massive boulders protruding from wet sand. At dusk, the rocks, dusted in orange lichen, glowed like pink lanterns, and wallabies lined the empty highway.

Eureka, it turns out, is a classic Tasmanian story. A modest DIY foodie utopia, deposited in its own microclimate, run by interlopers—Ann and Denis sailed down to Tasmania from Sydney in 1991, with no idea they’d stay—selling to a devoted clutch of locals. Lately, though, what Australians call “the Big Dry”—the worst drought in a 1,000 years, some say—is taking its toll. Freakishly unseasonable weather, already a Tasmanian specialty, has been increasing in ferocity, a trend locals blame on global warming. “It’s been exception134

ally weird the last couple of months,” Denis told me, and he worried about his latest crop. Doomsday weather aside, Tasmania is currently rebranding itself as Eden. A wind, more or less untouched by any landmass, whips around the globe, pounding Tasmania’s west coast. The endless gusting makes Tasmania’s air, soil and surrounding waters some of the least contaminated on the planet. Perhaps more important, thanks to its wild congeries of microclimates, you can grow or harvest virtually anything—berries, stone fruits, nuts, olives, truffles, wasabi, saffron, caviar, Wagyu beef—to exacting culinary specifications. Its crystalline waters abound in king crabs, crayfish, rock oysters, scallops and abalone. Its cool-climate wines and craft cheeses are superb and gaining international recognition. And its famous Leatherwood honey, drawn from the dense rain forest, might be the most delicious substance to ever strike the human palate.

Before it could be paradise, Tasmania was hell on earth.

Tasmania is Australia’s smallest state, an island off the continent’s southeast coast about the size of the Republic of Ireland. Once, if you committed a crime in England, you were banished to Australia. My second day in Tasmania, I drove out to Port Arthur, the settlement on the Tasman Peninsula where convicts were sent when they committed yet another crime while in Australia. As a secondary penal colony, Port Arthur was designed to be a place of unremitting subjugation and hardship. As Robert Hughes wrote in his majestic epic of Australia’s founding, The Fatal Shore, it became “the closest thing to a totalitarian society that would ever exist within the British Empire.” To get there from Hobart, Tasmania’s capital, I drove through Eaglehawk Neck, the narrow isthmus that connects the Tasman Peninsula to the Forestier Peninsula, which is connected in turn to the mainland. The scenery is arresting: the landscape is wind-pruned and intense, with talus slopes dropping down to aquamarine waters. Back at my hotel, an employee asked about my day at Port Arthur, and I too-casually replied, “Oh, lovely, thanks.” She turned to me full-on, dropping her smile. “It is an unbelievably sad place, for everything that happened there. For the convicts, for the aborigines. It is not lovely. It is sad.” I stood corrected.

How to explain the clarity of light and air in Tasmania? It’s as if, midway through life, someone removed your eyeglasses, wiped them clean on their shirttail, then handed them back to you. Hobart is a well-serviced city, and yet walking through it, the air crosses you with nothing but sweet things—the smell of roses and foxgloves and pencil pines and sweet alyssum.

“There’s nothing to the west of us,” says Graeme Phillips, author of A Guide to Tasting Tasmania, the definitive resource for the island’s food scene. “We miss all the gunk in the air.”

Phillips has a gray drooping mustache, and hands so thick they could thumb open a bowling ball as easily as a warm dinner roll. Formidable as he is, Phillips appears pleasantly softened by years taking the sweet impress of “Tassie” food and wine. I met him at Lebrina, his favorite restaurant in »

Beef carpaccio with zucchini salad at Lebrina restaurant, in Hobart. Clockwise from left: Hobart’s harbor; winemaker Tony Scherer, at Frogmore Creek; the Pyengana Dairy farm, in northeast Tasmania.

135

O

UR SUMMER PUDDING is the best in Tasmania,” the proprietress

assured me. I had pulled off the highway to eat at Eureka, a tiny fruit and berry farm a kilometer or so from the Tasmanian coast. The sign promised an array of bests—the best ice cream, the best fresh berries, and the sign didn’t lie. When I visited in November, spring in Australia, the strawberries had just come in. They were small, but piercing in their sweetness, and easily the best I had ever tasted. Eureka, it turns out, is blessed with its own perfect berry-growing climate, a little eucalyptus forest consisting mainly of blue and white gums. Here Ann and Denis Buchanan plant and harvest, and make their own jams and chutneys. Ann clucked over me as I greedily downed their pudding, a tart mash of berries and bread; then Denis, a prickly graybeard in overalls, showed me around. “We’re the real McCoy,” he tells me, in contrast with some other outfits that sneak in outside fruit. “It’s a boutique operation, alright. Our advertising is hopeless. We live by reputation alone.”

The stop came as a relief. Driving up the east coast of Tasmania, I worried my senses were leaving me, so hallucinatory was the beauty of the landscape. To my right flowed softly undulating dunes covered in banksias and bearded heath. Beyond these lay catchments of water sheltered from the open Tasman Sea in dune swales and coastal lagoons. As I pushed north, toward Great Oyster Bay and the Freycinet Peninsula, there were long, deserted stretches of pristine white-sand beaches, broken up only by looming granite outcrops, by the pates of massive boulders protruding from wet sand. At dusk, the rocks, dusted in orange lichen, glowed like pink lanterns, and wallabies lined the empty highway.

Eureka, it turns out, is a classic Tasmanian story. A modest DIY foodie utopia, deposited in its own microclimate, run by interlopers—Ann and Denis sailed down to Tasmania from Sydney in 1991, with no idea they’d stay—selling to a devoted clutch of locals. Lately, though, what Australians call “the Big Dry”—the worst drought in a 1,000 years, some say—is taking its toll. Freakishly unseasonable weather, already a Tasmanian specialty, has been increasing in ferocity, a trend locals blame on global warming. “It’s been exception134

ally weird the last couple of months,” Denis told me, and he worried about his latest crop. Doomsday weather aside, Tasmania is currently rebranding itself as Eden. A wind, more or less untouched by any landmass, whips around the globe, pounding Tasmania’s west coast. The endless gusting makes Tasmania’s air, soil and surrounding waters some of the least contaminated on the planet. Perhaps more important, thanks to its wild congeries of microclimates, you can grow or harvest virtually anything—berries, stone fruits, nuts, olives, truffles, wasabi, saffron, caviar, Wagyu beef—to exacting culinary specifications. Its crystalline waters abound in king crabs, crayfish, rock oysters, scallops and abalone. Its cool-climate wines and craft cheeses are superb and gaining international recognition. And its famous Leatherwood honey, drawn from the dense rain forest, might be the most delicious substance to ever strike the human palate.

Before it could be paradise, Tasmania was hell on earth.

Tasmania is Australia’s smallest state, an island off the continent’s southeast coast about the size of the Republic of Ireland. Once, if you committed a crime in England, you were banished to Australia. My second day in Tasmania, I drove out to Port Arthur, the settlement on the Tasman Peninsula where convicts were sent when they committed yet another crime while in Australia. As a secondary penal colony, Port Arthur was designed to be a place of unremitting subjugation and hardship. As Robert Hughes wrote in his majestic epic of Australia’s founding, The Fatal Shore, it became “the closest thing to a totalitarian society that would ever exist within the British Empire.” To get there from Hobart, Tasmania’s capital, I drove through Eaglehawk Neck, the narrow isthmus that connects the Tasman Peninsula to the Forestier Peninsula, which is connected in turn to the mainland. The scenery is arresting: the landscape is wind-pruned and intense, with talus slopes dropping down to aquamarine waters. Back at my hotel, an employee asked about my day at Port Arthur, and I too-casually replied, “Oh, lovely, thanks.” She turned to me full-on, dropping her smile. “It is an unbelievably sad place, for everything that happened there. For the convicts, for the aborigines. It is not lovely. It is sad.” I stood corrected.

How to explain the clarity of light and air in Tasmania? It’s as if, midway through life, someone removed your eyeglasses, wiped them clean on their shirttail, then handed them back to you. Hobart is a well-serviced city, and yet walking through it, the air crosses you with nothing but sweet things—the smell of roses and foxgloves and pencil pines and sweet alyssum.

“There’s nothing to the west of us,” says Graeme Phillips, author of A Guide to Tasting Tasmania, the definitive resource for the island’s food scene. “We miss all the gunk in the air.”

Phillips has a gray drooping mustache, and hands so thick they could thumb open a bowling ball as easily as a warm dinner roll. Formidable as he is, Phillips appears pleasantly softened by years taking the sweet impress of “Tassie” food and wine. I met him at Lebrina, his favorite restaurant in »

Beef carpaccio with zucchini salad at Lebrina restaurant, in Hobart. Clockwise from left: Hobart’s harbor; winemaker Tony Scherer, at Frogmore Creek; the Pyengana Dairy farm, in northeast Tasmania.

135

The Moorilla vineyard, on the Derwent River, not far from Hobart.

the state. We sample a daube of lamb à la cuillère and a truncated cone of biting peppery eggplant that lies in a cooling pool of yogurt. Alongside these, Phillips introduced me to Tassie wine with an exquisite Chardonnay. “They have structure,” he said of the island’s wines. “This one, it doesn’t have the in-your-face blossoming that most Australians have grown up with.” It is tart, minerally, its undernotes more gunmetal than floral.

L

In an hour’s haunting drive, you find everything from dry bushland and white-sand beaches to eucalyptus rain forest and lush pastureland 136

1840’s cottage that has never been gutted to create an open space. Instead, guests dine in homey, intimate, old-world rooms, surrounded by antiques. Lebrina’s chef, Scott Minervini, started a modest revolution in 1998 when he insisted that the island’s cornucopia of game, seafood and produce should stay home. This flew in the face of history: Tasmania has traditionally been the butt of jokes from mainlanders, who consider it a backwater.

But Minervini saw culinary possibility: “You’ve got a network of small producers. In Tas, you know what you eat grew just down the road from here.” My meal at Lebrina started with a blazing white kingfish—its interior flesh is the color of hotel linens—topped with piquantly fresh local garlic shoots. Later, as Phillips and I were tucking in to dessert—a chocolate-andbiscotti pudding with local hazelnut praline, a warm orange pudding with lemon curd—Minervini joined us.

“When a chef shows off with the food, I think something has to give in the flavor. There has to be a bit of selflessness.”

Minervini is a low-key man in dorky-chic glasses and a chef ’s apron. “What else do you need to do to a ripe tomato?”

“It’s a lazy way to cook,” adds Phillips. “You want to know what Tasmania is?” he says, laying down his spoon. “Five of us get together every year. We bring no food. We catch everything as we go. Crayfish as big as my arms. Scallops and crab.

And just 15 minutes up the river. That’s Tasmania.”

Well, that was Tasmania. Theisland is changing, from a target of snide putdowns into a chic eating destination.

In the south, Moorilla, one of Tasmania’s earliest modern vineyards, has opened a hotel—with glass-and-steel guest chalets suspended on a hillside over the Derwent River—to go with its winery, organic microbrewery and restaurant.

Meanwhile, up north at the brilliant Stillwater River Café, I had one of the finest meals of my life, a discreet smorgasbord of “Freestyle Australian” with dashes of Asian fusion: scallop sashimi with mushroom essence and truffle oil, sea-urchin roe with dashi jelly, grass-fed prime rib-eye fillet, vanilla-poached quince—and all of it, as the mantra of Tassie cuisine goes, local, local, local. At the lovely Daniel Alps at Strathlynn, Alps himself takes me back to his kitchen, where he slaps and tugs at the plenty stored in his larder. “In Singapore they can’t even grow a carrot. I couldn’t work somewhere where I couldn’t see everything growing.” Every day Alps drives up to the restaurant past the vineyard, and the vineyard tells him how to cook that day: the greener the leaf, the lighter EBRINA SITS IN AN

his hand. He shows off his spring bay scallops, spring lambs, venison haunches and organic herbs and vegetables, all of it untouched by middlemen.

Steve Cumper was, until recently, the chef at Peppermint Bay, the most ambitious expression of the burgeoning Tasmanian food philosophy. To get there, you board a deluxe catamaran in Hobart’s harbor, cruise up the Derwent River, between sedimentary mudstone cliffs populated by whitebellied eagles and peregrine falcons, past the occasional pod of migrating whales, then dock in the rural town of Woodbridge. Here you are greeted by a supermod glass-andsteel compound. “Too many city restaurants have misappropriated the gate-to-plate philosophy,” says Cumper, who has cultivated a tart sarcasm when it comes to artisanal purity.

“They’ve commodified it.” Cumper moved to Tasmania to be the real thing: he lives on a 5-hectare homestead with his young family. A former vegetarian, he now does his own slaughtering. Local producers provide him with everything from heirloom quince to water buffalo. “Tasmania is now a paradox,” Cumper tells me over lunch. “The poor man’s food is on the rich man’s table. Unfortunately, the good-food movement is elitist.”

Elitist, inevitably; flattering to yuppie narcissism, check; but in Tasmania, utterly necessary. For much of its modern history, Tasmania has been content to molest itself for the commodity buck. In the north, the mountains around Queenstown are a moonscape, thanks to decades of copper smelting. One of Tasmania’s largest industries is still logging; and to the horror of environmentalists around the globe, Tasmania’s old-growth forests are logged by clear-cutting and burning, only to be turned into wood chips. After a huge swath of forest has been cut, the largest logs are removed; the remaining scrub is lit on fire with liquefied diesel gel, better known as napalm. The ground is then seeded with eucalyptus. In the northwest, I saw the legacy of logging with my own eyes: in the middle of a dense tangle of primeval forest, blue gum trees stand in rows, like obedient schoolchildren.

Here artisanal food and ecotourism are more than trendy sensualism: they’re competitors to the island’s extractive industries, industries rooted in a thoroughly unsensual worldview. Prisoners, of course, ate nothing but duff, hog peas and suet; but even affluent settlers were incorrigibly English.

Some of them built their Georgian houses pointed to the south, even though in the Southern Hemisphere the sun is to the north. The Anglo-Saxon mind-set only started to give way in the 1950’s, when continental Europeans arrived in greater numbers. They noticed immediately that Tasmania’s climate was a near-perfect facsimile of the Mediterranean’s.

The first grapevines were planted in backyards, by Italians; a wine industry slowly began to develop, followed by specialty cheeses, nuts and fruits.

If ever there were an antidote to a brutish past, it is Annie Ashbolt, a radiant woman in her 40’s. “The early olive » 137

The Moorilla vineyard, on the Derwent River, not far from Hobart.

the state. We sample a daube of lamb à la cuillère and a truncated cone of biting peppery eggplant that lies in a cooling pool of yogurt. Alongside these, Phillips introduced me to Tassie wine with an exquisite Chardonnay. “They have structure,” he said of the island’s wines. “This one, it doesn’t have the in-your-face blossoming that most Australians have grown up with.” It is tart, minerally, its undernotes more gunmetal than floral.

L

In an hour’s haunting drive, you find everything from dry bushland and white-sand beaches to eucalyptus rain forest and lush pastureland 136

1840’s cottage that has never been gutted to create an open space. Instead, guests dine in homey, intimate, old-world rooms, surrounded by antiques. Lebrina’s chef, Scott Minervini, started a modest revolution in 1998 when he insisted that the island’s cornucopia of game, seafood and produce should stay home. This flew in the face of history: Tasmania has traditionally been the butt of jokes from mainlanders, who consider it a backwater.

But Minervini saw culinary possibility: “You’ve got a network of small producers. In Tas, you know what you eat grew just down the road from here.” My meal at Lebrina started with a blazing white kingfish—its interior flesh is the color of hotel linens—topped with piquantly fresh local garlic shoots. Later, as Phillips and I were tucking in to dessert—a chocolate-andbiscotti pudding with local hazelnut praline, a warm orange pudding with lemon curd—Minervini joined us.

“When a chef shows off with the food, I think something has to give in the flavor. There has to be a bit of selflessness.”

Minervini is a low-key man in dorky-chic glasses and a chef ’s apron. “What else do you need to do to a ripe tomato?”

“It’s a lazy way to cook,” adds Phillips. “You want to know what Tasmania is?” he says, laying down his spoon. “Five of us get together every year. We bring no food. We catch everything as we go. Crayfish as big as my arms. Scallops and crab.

And just 15 minutes up the river. That’s Tasmania.”

Well, that was Tasmania. Theisland is changing, from a target of snide putdowns into a chic eating destination.

In the south, Moorilla, one of Tasmania’s earliest modern vineyards, has opened a hotel—with glass-and-steel guest chalets suspended on a hillside over the Derwent River—to go with its winery, organic microbrewery and restaurant.

Meanwhile, up north at the brilliant Stillwater River Café, I had one of the finest meals of my life, a discreet smorgasbord of “Freestyle Australian” with dashes of Asian fusion: scallop sashimi with mushroom essence and truffle oil, sea-urchin roe with dashi jelly, grass-fed prime rib-eye fillet, vanilla-poached quince—and all of it, as the mantra of Tassie cuisine goes, local, local, local. At the lovely Daniel Alps at Strathlynn, Alps himself takes me back to his kitchen, where he slaps and tugs at the plenty stored in his larder. “In Singapore they can’t even grow a carrot. I couldn’t work somewhere where I couldn’t see everything growing.” Every day Alps drives up to the restaurant past the vineyard, and the vineyard tells him how to cook that day: the greener the leaf, the lighter EBRINA SITS IN AN

his hand. He shows off his spring bay scallops, spring lambs, venison haunches and organic herbs and vegetables, all of it untouched by middlemen.

Steve Cumper was, until recently, the chef at Peppermint Bay, the most ambitious expression of the burgeoning Tasmanian food philosophy. To get there, you board a deluxe catamaran in Hobart’s harbor, cruise up the Derwent River, between sedimentary mudstone cliffs populated by whitebellied eagles and peregrine falcons, past the occasional pod of migrating whales, then dock in the rural town of Woodbridge. Here you are greeted by a supermod glass-andsteel compound. “Too many city restaurants have misappropriated the gate-to-plate philosophy,” says Cumper, who has cultivated a tart sarcasm when it comes to artisanal purity.

“They’ve commodified it.” Cumper moved to Tasmania to be the real thing: he lives on a 5-hectare homestead with his young family. A former vegetarian, he now does his own slaughtering. Local producers provide him with everything from heirloom quince to water buffalo. “Tasmania is now a paradox,” Cumper tells me over lunch. “The poor man’s food is on the rich man’s table. Unfortunately, the good-food movement is elitist.”

Elitist, inevitably; flattering to yuppie narcissism, check; but in Tasmania, utterly necessary. For much of its modern history, Tasmania has been content to molest itself for the commodity buck. In the north, the mountains around Queenstown are a moonscape, thanks to decades of copper smelting. One of Tasmania’s largest industries is still logging; and to the horror of environmentalists around the globe, Tasmania’s old-growth forests are logged by clear-cutting and burning, only to be turned into wood chips. After a huge swath of forest has been cut, the largest logs are removed; the remaining scrub is lit on fire with liquefied diesel gel, better known as napalm. The ground is then seeded with eucalyptus. In the northwest, I saw the legacy of logging with my own eyes: in the middle of a dense tangle of primeval forest, blue gum trees stand in rows, like obedient schoolchildren.

Here artisanal food and ecotourism are more than trendy sensualism: they’re competitors to the island’s extractive industries, industries rooted in a thoroughly unsensual worldview. Prisoners, of course, ate nothing but duff, hog peas and suet; but even affluent settlers were incorrigibly English.

Some of them built their Georgian houses pointed to the south, even though in the Southern Hemisphere the sun is to the north. The Anglo-Saxon mind-set only started to give way in the 1950’s, when continental Europeans arrived in greater numbers. They noticed immediately that Tasmania’s climate was a near-perfect facsimile of the Mediterranean’s.

The first grapevines were planted in backyards, by Italians; a wine industry slowly began to develop, followed by specialty cheeses, nuts and fruits.

If ever there were an antidote to a brutish past, it is Annie Ashbolt, a radiant woman in her 40’s. “The early olive » 137

farmers in the midlands were all Greek and Italian immigrants,” she tells me over coffee in Hobart. In the early 1980’s, her husband, Robert, began managing his family’s farm. Only a decade earlier, Robert’s grandfather had been paid by the government to uproot his old-growth apple trees.

“Corporate farming was taking over Australia,” says Annie.

She and Robert were determined to stem the industrial tide and return the farm to its small-scale roots, planting groves of olive and elderflower trees. They now produce a beautiful olive oil, fruity and raw with notes of mown grass and apple.

It is widely regarded as one of Australia’s best.

The story she told me I heard over and over from the island’s small producers: we’re a raging success; we can’t keep up with demand; we’re barely hanging on. Production costs are high, regulations stack the deck against the boutique producer, and, in recent years, climate change has aggravated the vagaries of Tasmania’s fickle weather. After our coffee, Annie walked me back to my car. She spoke breathlessly about Tasmania’s future. “We are too isolated to compete in the commodity marketplace. We have to value-add.” But the island’s humility is deeply ingrained. Tasmania is a paradise, Annie believes, complete unto itself but for one thing: sufficient self-respect to recognize itself as such.

timber pillars that were once ballast for Tasmanian ships.

Visiting Meadowbank on a blazing day in early spring, I met two of Tasmania’s winemaking pooh-bahs, Andrew Hood and Tony Scherer. Hood is the dean of Tasmanian winemakers, the man responsible for designing many of the island’s finest Pinots. He is 59, snowy-haired, and for an Aussie, very English. Scherer, a rangy American, runs the vineyard at Frogmore Creek, Tasmania’s most prominent organic vineyard. We sat down to an impeccably presented feast—roasted chicken in a soft polenta, seared scallops in a black pudding, cutlets of Flinders Island lamb and the freshest oysters I have ever encountered—and as we ate, both men began to speak candidly about the state of Tasmanian wine.

“In an industry of our scale,” says Hood, “one individual can be involved from the ground to the consumer. We’re one-quarter of 1 percent of Australian production. The mainland does a huge volume of industrial-scale wine. But when you look at super-premium wines, it’s a different story.

You couldn’t talk about Pinot Noir in Australia without thinking of Tasmania.” Small, to Hood and Scherer, means free.

(Hood sums up their worldview bluntly: “Here is what comes out of my vineyard. If you don’t like it, bugger off.”) It also means very, very vulnerable. Big players are coming into the

At Eureka, the strawberries had come in. They were small, but piercing in their sweetness, and easily the best I had ever tasted

A

of commodity agriculture lies terroir, the semi-mystical French idea of soil, air and climate as they express themselves in grapes, and subtly imprint a wine with the character of a place. The Tasmanian wine industry aspires to cultivate the island’s unique terroir, without giving an inch to the Byzantine snobberies of the French. It is a premium wine industry, the coolclimate, small-scale answer to a mainland famous for warmclimate Shiraz and the industrial plonk known as Yellow Tail.

In the south, Pauillac-style wines thrive, like the Cabernets of the Domaine A vineyard. Halfway up the coast is Apsley Gorge, where Brian Franklin, Tasmania’s most committed Burgundian, makes a gorgeous Pinot Noir in a repurposed fish factory. (In season, Franklin, a former abalone diver, will catch and grill you a fresh seafood feast to blow your mind.)

But my favorite stop along the Tasmanian wine trail was Meadowbank Estate, a temple to the progress the island’s wine industry has made over the past 30 years.

Meadowbank’s cellar is an open-plan building with massive windows overlooking the vineyards of the Coal River Valley and the glinting blue-black estuaries of Barilla Bay. Inside, all is crisp, lightsome, easygoing and neat as a pin.

Cathedral ceilings are strung with catwalks and Oregon-

138

T THE OPPOSITE EXTREME

market, with an eye on China’s growing predilection for fine wine. And then there is climate change. “Global warming,” says Scherer, “has huge implications for what we’ll be eating and drinking over the next 15 years.” Hood agrees. “I’ve seen a dramatic change,” he says. “When I was a kid, the snow on Mount Wellington stayed throughout the winter. Now it snows and it’s gone the next day.”

Terroir is a painfully sensitive register of environmental change. So far, ironically, despoliation has been kind to Tasmanian Pinot Noir. Vintages used to be hit-and-miss; now, thanks in some part to global warming, for the past three years “each one has been a knockout,” says Scherer.

High UV radiation, courtesy of Australia’s depleted ozone, has thickened grape skins, deepening the color of the wine.

In Launceston, I met with Andrew Pirie, the preeminent student of Tasmanian terroir. Pirie created the modern Tasmanian wine industry out of virtually nothing, and is one of only three Tasmanians mentioned by name in Jancis Robinson’s definitive Oxford Companion to Wine. “It’s a question I could spend days answering,” Pirie tells me over tea. “As it gets cooler, as sunshine gets softer, you get more delicate flavors. The mainland is hotter, so they have stronger flavors, with characteristics of olive and leather. Here it is more »

The local bank in Evandale, near Launceston. Clockwise from top left: Wineglass Bay, off the Freycinet Peninsula; lamb with organic beans at Daniel Alps; chef Daniel Alps at his namesake restaurant, in the Tamar Valley.

139

farmers in the midlands were all Greek and Italian immigrants,” she tells me over coffee in Hobart. In the early 1980’s, her husband, Robert, began managing his family’s farm. Only a decade earlier, Robert’s grandfather had been paid by the government to uproot his old-growth apple trees.

“Corporate farming was taking over Australia,” says Annie.

She and Robert were determined to stem the industrial tide and return the farm to its small-scale roots, planting groves of olive and elderflower trees. They now produce a beautiful olive oil, fruity and raw with notes of mown grass and apple.

It is widely regarded as one of Australia’s best.

The story she told me I heard over and over from the island’s small producers: we’re a raging success; we can’t keep up with demand; we’re barely hanging on. Production costs are high, regulations stack the deck against the boutique producer, and, in recent years, climate change has aggravated the vagaries of Tasmania’s fickle weather. After our coffee, Annie walked me back to my car. She spoke breathlessly about Tasmania’s future. “We are too isolated to compete in the commodity marketplace. We have to value-add.” But the island’s humility is deeply ingrained. Tasmania is a paradise, Annie believes, complete unto itself but for one thing: sufficient self-respect to recognize itself as such.

timber pillars that were once ballast for Tasmanian ships.

Visiting Meadowbank on a blazing day in early spring, I met two of Tasmania’s winemaking pooh-bahs, Andrew Hood and Tony Scherer. Hood is the dean of Tasmanian winemakers, the man responsible for designing many of the island’s finest Pinots. He is 59, snowy-haired, and for an Aussie, very English. Scherer, a rangy American, runs the vineyard at Frogmore Creek, Tasmania’s most prominent organic vineyard. We sat down to an impeccably presented feast—roasted chicken in a soft polenta, seared scallops in a black pudding, cutlets of Flinders Island lamb and the freshest oysters I have ever encountered—and as we ate, both men began to speak candidly about the state of Tasmanian wine.

“In an industry of our scale,” says Hood, “one individual can be involved from the ground to the consumer. We’re one-quarter of 1 percent of Australian production. The mainland does a huge volume of industrial-scale wine. But when you look at super-premium wines, it’s a different story.

You couldn’t talk about Pinot Noir in Australia without thinking of Tasmania.” Small, to Hood and Scherer, means free.

(Hood sums up their worldview bluntly: “Here is what comes out of my vineyard. If you don’t like it, bugger off.”) It also means very, very vulnerable. Big players are coming into the

At Eureka, the strawberries had come in. They were small, but piercing in their sweetness, and easily the best I had ever tasted

A

of commodity agriculture lies terroir, the semi-mystical French idea of soil, air and climate as they express themselves in grapes, and subtly imprint a wine with the character of a place. The Tasmanian wine industry aspires to cultivate the island’s unique terroir, without giving an inch to the Byzantine snobberies of the French. It is a premium wine industry, the coolclimate, small-scale answer to a mainland famous for warmclimate Shiraz and the industrial plonk known as Yellow Tail.

In the south, Pauillac-style wines thrive, like the Cabernets of the Domaine A vineyard. Halfway up the coast is Apsley Gorge, where Brian Franklin, Tasmania’s most committed Burgundian, makes a gorgeous Pinot Noir in a repurposed fish factory. (In season, Franklin, a former abalone diver, will catch and grill you a fresh seafood feast to blow your mind.)

But my favorite stop along the Tasmanian wine trail was Meadowbank Estate, a temple to the progress the island’s wine industry has made over the past 30 years.

Meadowbank’s cellar is an open-plan building with massive windows overlooking the vineyards of the Coal River Valley and the glinting blue-black estuaries of Barilla Bay. Inside, all is crisp, lightsome, easygoing and neat as a pin.

Cathedral ceilings are strung with catwalks and Oregon-

138

T THE OPPOSITE EXTREME

market, with an eye on China’s growing predilection for fine wine. And then there is climate change. “Global warming,” says Scherer, “has huge implications for what we’ll be eating and drinking over the next 15 years.” Hood agrees. “I’ve seen a dramatic change,” he says. “When I was a kid, the snow on Mount Wellington stayed throughout the winter. Now it snows and it’s gone the next day.”

Terroir is a painfully sensitive register of environmental change. So far, ironically, despoliation has been kind to Tasmanian Pinot Noir. Vintages used to be hit-and-miss; now, thanks in some part to global warming, for the past three years “each one has been a knockout,” says Scherer.

High UV radiation, courtesy of Australia’s depleted ozone, has thickened grape skins, deepening the color of the wine.

In Launceston, I met with Andrew Pirie, the preeminent student of Tasmanian terroir. Pirie created the modern Tasmanian wine industry out of virtually nothing, and is one of only three Tasmanians mentioned by name in Jancis Robinson’s definitive Oxford Companion to Wine. “It’s a question I could spend days answering,” Pirie tells me over tea. “As it gets cooler, as sunshine gets softer, you get more delicate flavors. The mainland is hotter, so they have stronger flavors, with characteristics of olive and leather. Here it is more »

The local bank in Evandale, near Launceston. Clockwise from top left: Wineglass Bay, off the Freycinet Peninsula; lamb with organic beans at Daniel Alps; chef Daniel Alps at his namesake restaurant, in the Tamar Valley.

139

temperate. We have fruit essences, flowers and spices.” A softspoken and elegant man, the Sydney-born Pirie is “distantly French,” as he puts it; he moved to Tasmania in 1980. When Pirie arrived on the scene, wine in Tasmania was still little more than a hobby—there were maybe 1,500 planted vines.

He saw immediately that the Tamar Valley was a close cousin to Alsace and Burgundy—where he had apprenticed—with respect to a host of variables like latitude and intensity of sunshine. Pirie and his brother ordered 51,000 vines, and within months, they had started the first commercial development of the modern era.

Thirty years later, the Tasmanian wine industry is a raging success. Two hundred and fifty vineyards now cover 1,300 hectares, both numbers representing a twofold increase over the past eight years alone. But, as Scherer and Hood told me, size could spell trouble. In 2003, Tasmania’s logging giant, a company called Gunns, acquired the Tamar Ridge label, making them the largest landholder in the northern wine region. Two years later, Gunns hired Pirie to run its vineyards. “It was a shock to everyone,” says Hood. “He put Tasmanian wine on the map.” Whether Gunns is interested in crafting fine wine is unclear. The company would, however, like to build a pulp mill in the Tamar Valley, in the heart of Tasmania’s northern wine country. The plant would allow the company to process for themselves the old-growth forest they clear-cut. Along the way, its many critics claim, the mill would pump sulfurous effluent into the Bass Strait, to the severe detriment of marine life, not to mention Tasmania’s new clean-and-green image.

Pirie appears unruffled by the outcry. “I think it’s a response from a small-scale industry,” he says. By Tasmanian standards, Tamar Ridge is huge, and yet, adds Pirie, “I go to conferences where I’m considered a boutique producer.

The Gunns connection is controversial, but it is a source of funding for an industry that thrives on capital. Many of the better vineyards in France are owned by corporate overlords, and they’re fairly relaxed about that.” He remains unconvinced by the anxiety brought on by the mill. “Only two days ago,” Pirie says, as our tea comes to a close, “I saw the boss of Gunns. He’d just come back from seeing a pulp plant in Chile. It sits in the middle of a sea of vineyards.

Vines go up to the walls of the plant. There’s a photo of the plant manager drinking the effluent water.” He smiles at me reassuringly. “There is a degree of emotion in this that’s not entirely rational.”

M

Evening on the bay at Barr Al Jissah.

A view of the Tasman Sea, near Bicheno.

beautiful; Tasmania burrows deep into your consciousness. Here, on a small island, in an hour’s haunting drive, you find everything from dry bushland and white-sand beaches to eucalyptus rain forest and lush pastureland. It is like no place on earth, a paradise intelligently designed, if not by God, surely by American food visionary Alice Waters. Delicacies everywhere, produced by people who expressed their deepest essence in making it. But then the euphoria fades, and one remembers Tasmania is like every place on earth. At the very moment it’s coming to self-consciousness as a final redoubt of the small, the forces of exploitation are redoubling their efforts to degrade it. And then nature takes its bite. A month after I returned to the States, a bushfire descended into the Buchanans’ little valley, destroying the Eureka berry farm.

“We sustained quite a bit of damage,” says Ann now, “but we survived.” Their pipes had melted; fencing evaporated; their heavily mulched soil had been scorched beyond use. But they stayed on in Tasmania. “We rebuilt,” says Ann. “And we’re bigger and better than ever.”

ANY PLACES ARE

GUIDE TO TASMANIA GETTING THERE Qantas Airways and Virgin Blue offer connecting services to Hobart from Melbourne and Sydney. Qantas flies from most Asian cities. All major Asian carriers fly to both Sydney and Melbourne. Car rentals from most major companies are available at Hobart airport.

WHEN TO GO December to May is sunny and dry; daytime temperatures vary from 16 to 25 degrees.

140

WHERE TO STAY Hatherley House 43 High St., Launceston; 61-3/6334-7727; doubles from US$131.

Henry Jones Art Hotel 25 Hunter St., Sullivan’s Cove, Hobart; 61-3/6210-7700; www. thehenryjones.com; doubles from US$255.

Islington Hotel 321 Davey St., Hobart; 61-3/6220-2123; doubles from US$350.

WHERE TO EAT Daniel Alps at Strathlynn 95 Rosevears Dr., Rosevears; 61-3/6330-2388; lunch for two US$110. Lebrina 155 New Town Rd., New Town, Hobart; 61-3/6228-7775; dinner for two US$139.

Peppermint Bay 3435 Channel Hwy., Woodbridge; 61-3/6267-4088; dinner for two US$106.

Stillwater River Café Ritchies Mill, 2 Bridge Rd., Launceston; 61-3/6331-4153; dinner for two US$149.

WINERIES Apsley Gorge Rosedale Rd., Bicheno; 61-3/6375-1221.

Hood Wines Frogmore Creek 208 Denholms Rd., Cambridge; 61-3/6248-5844.

Meadowbank Estate 699 Richmond Rd., Cambridge; 61-3/6248-4484.

Moorilla 655 Main Rd., Berriedale; 61-3/6277-9900. Tamar Ridge Estates 653 Auburn Rd., Kayena; 61-3/6394-1111.

WHAT TO DO Eureka Farm 89 Upper Scamander Rd., Scamander; 61-3/6372-5500.

Salamanca Market Salamanca Place, Hobart; 61-3/6238-2843.

135

temperate. We have fruit essences, flowers and spices.” A softspoken and elegant man, the Sydney-born Pirie is “distantly French,” as he puts it; he moved to Tasmania in 1980. When Pirie arrived on the scene, wine in Tasmania was still little more than a hobby—there were maybe 1,500 planted vines.

He saw immediately that the Tamar Valley was a close cousin to Alsace and Burgundy—where he had apprenticed—with respect to a host of variables like latitude and intensity of sunshine. Pirie and his brother ordered 51,000 vines, and within months, they had started the first commercial development of the modern era.

Thirty years later, the Tasmanian wine industry is a raging success. Two hundred and fifty vineyards now cover 1,300 hectares, both numbers representing a twofold increase over the past eight years alone. But, as Scherer and Hood told me, size could spell trouble. In 2003, Tasmania’s logging giant, a company called Gunns, acquired the Tamar Ridge label, making them the largest landholder in the northern wine region. Two years later, Gunns hired Pirie to run its vineyards. “It was a shock to everyone,” says Hood. “He put Tasmanian wine on the map.” Whether Gunns is interested in crafting fine wine is unclear. The company would, however, like to build a pulp mill in the Tamar Valley, in the heart of Tasmania’s northern wine country. The plant would allow the company to process for themselves the old-growth forest they clear-cut. Along the way, its many critics claim, the mill would pump sulfurous effluent into the Bass Strait, to the severe detriment of marine life, not to mention Tasmania’s new clean-and-green image.

Pirie appears unruffled by the outcry. “I think it’s a response from a small-scale industry,” he says. By Tasmanian standards, Tamar Ridge is huge, and yet, adds Pirie, “I go to conferences where I’m considered a boutique producer.

The Gunns connection is controversial, but it is a source of funding for an industry that thrives on capital. Many of the better vineyards in France are owned by corporate overlords, and they’re fairly relaxed about that.” He remains unconvinced by the anxiety brought on by the mill. “Only two days ago,” Pirie says, as our tea comes to a close, “I saw the boss of Gunns. He’d just come back from seeing a pulp plant in Chile. It sits in the middle of a sea of vineyards.

Vines go up to the walls of the plant. There’s a photo of the plant manager drinking the effluent water.” He smiles at me reassuringly. “There is a degree of emotion in this that’s not entirely rational.”

M

Evening on the bay at Barr Al Jissah.

A view of the Tasman Sea, near Bicheno.

beautiful; Tasmania burrows deep into your consciousness. Here, on a small island, in an hour’s haunting drive, you find everything from dry bushland and white-sand beaches to eucalyptus rain forest and lush pastureland. It is like no place on earth, a paradise intelligently designed, if not by God, surely by American food visionary Alice Waters. Delicacies everywhere, produced by people who expressed their deepest essence in making it. But then the euphoria fades, and one remembers Tasmania is like every place on earth. At the very moment it’s coming to self-consciousness as a final redoubt of the small, the forces of exploitation are redoubling their efforts to degrade it. And then nature takes its bite. A month after I returned to the States, a bushfire descended into the Buchanans’ little valley, destroying the Eureka berry farm.

“We sustained quite a bit of damage,” says Ann now, “but we survived.” Their pipes had melted; fencing evaporated; their heavily mulched soil had been scorched beyond use. But they stayed on in Tasmania. “We rebuilt,” says Ann. “And we’re bigger and better than ever.”

ANY PLACES ARE

GUIDE TO TASMANIA GETTING THERE Qantas Airways and Virgin Blue offer connecting services to Hobart from Melbourne and Sydney. Qantas flies from most Asian cities. All major Asian carriers fly to both Sydney and Melbourne. Car rentals from most major companies are available at Hobart airport.

WHEN TO GO December to May is sunny and dry; daytime temperatures vary from 16 to 25 degrees.

140

WHERE TO STAY Hatherley House 43 High St., Launceston; 61-3/6334-7727; doubles from US$131.

Henry Jones Art Hotel 25 Hunter St., Sullivan’s Cove, Hobart; 61-3/6210-7700; www. thehenryjones.com; doubles from US$255.

Islington Hotel 321 Davey St., Hobart; 61-3/6220-2123; doubles from US$350.

WHERE TO EAT Daniel Alps at Strathlynn 95 Rosevears Dr., Rosevears; 61-3/6330-2388; lunch for two US$110. Lebrina 155 New Town Rd., New Town, Hobart; 61-3/6228-7775; dinner for two US$139.

Peppermint Bay 3435 Channel Hwy., Woodbridge; 61-3/6267-4088; dinner for two US$106.

Stillwater River Café Ritchies Mill, 2 Bridge Rd., Launceston; 61-3/6331-4153; dinner for two US$149.

WINERIES Apsley Gorge Rosedale Rd., Bicheno; 61-3/6375-1221.

Hood Wines Frogmore Creek 208 Denholms Rd., Cambridge; 61-3/6248-5844.

Meadowbank Estate 699 Richmond Rd., Cambridge; 61-3/6248-4484.

Moorilla 655 Main Rd., Berriedale; 61-3/6277-9900. Tamar Ridge Estates 653 Auburn Rd., Kayena; 61-3/6394-1111.

WHAT TO DO Eureka Farm 89 Upper Scamander Rd., Scamander; 61-3/6372-5500.

Salamanca Market Salamanca Place, Hobart; 61-3/6238-2843.

135

(My Favorite Place) A sweeping view of stunning Sydney Harbor.

M

Richard Quest, the well-journeyed presenter of CNN’s Business Traveller program, tells GENEVIEVE TSAI why he always finds Sydney—and its sparkling harbor—so alluring

this Pacific pearl. For me, Sydney has it all.

The seafood is excellent and whether at Australia’s largest city The Rocks or Watson’s Bay, you don’t need began with my first visit in to spend a fortune to eat well. The beaches 1991. Landing at Sydney are plentiful and there’s always a quite cove Airport, there was a huge feeling of or cranny to be found. Sydney has truly “Wow—from the northern hemisphere, I married the metropolitan with the beach. had finally made the destination to which so I always think that Sydney Airport is many aspire to visit.” Halfway around the both the happiest and saddest of places. At world from my native England—I’d done it! arrivals you see relatives being reunited Over the years, this relationship has after many decades, seeing grandchildren matured. I can sit for hours in the Botanic Richard Quest loves to take in for the first time. And then at departures, Gardens looking at the vista of the Sydney the views of Sydney Harbour. the sadness as those same relatives part, Opera House, framed spectacularly by the knowing that distance, time and money may mean they Sydney Harbour Bridge. Watching the yachts on the harbor, never see each other again.

I get a true idea of what architect Jørn Utzon intended with For 17 years I have visited Australia at least once a year. It his signature shells. I always take in a concert just to enjoy is a place where I relish those magic words “Welcome to dinner at the Bennelong restaurant and then drinks sitting Sydney, where the local time is …” Even after all these visits on the steps afterwards—all with the lights of North Sydney I still silently say, “Yeeeeessss!” ✚ (like a mini Hong Kong) adding a touch of Asian spice to

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