June 2009 by Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

TRAVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA

BEACH BREAKS 26 ASIAN (ALL FOR US$150 OR LESS)

TRAVEL SECRET THAI ISLANDS FAMILY 55 MUST-KNOW TIPS YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF LET ALONE VISITED!

JUNE 2009

Beaches special • Maldives • Thai islands • Hainan • Family travel • Taipei • Brazil

Beaches& Islands SUMMER SPECIAL

Maldives The new and the different: why go now

Mentawai 5 fresh ways to enjoy Asia’s surf capital

Hainan Explore China’s tropical paradise

HIS AND HERS SIZZLING SWIMWEAR

JUNE 2 009

travelandleisuresea.com

Plus: 20 money-saving travel deals

SINGAPORE SG$6.90 ● HONG KONG HK$39 THAILAND THB160 ● INDONESIA IDR45,000 MALAYSIA MYR15 ● VIETNAM VND80,000 MACAU MOP40 ● PHILIPPINES PHP220 BURMA MMK32 ● CAMBODIA KHR20,000 BRUNEI BND6.90 ● LAOS LAK48,000

Jl. Karang Mas Sejahtera, Jimbaran, Bali 80364, Indonesia. Phone +62-361-702222 Fax +62-361-701555 www.ayanaresort.com

The Balinese believe that only through reincarnation can the soul evolve to the highest state possible – ultimate perfection. AYANA Resort and Spa Bali has been reborn. On 1 April, 2009, AYANA Resort and Spa Bali celebrated its rebirth as an independent hotel. The property has now embarked on the next stage of its evolution under the management of USbased West Paces Hotel Group, which is led by legendary hotelier Horst Schulze, a founding member and longserving former president of The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company. Named after a ‘place of refuge’ in Sanskrit, AYANA oﬀers the seclusion of 77 hectares of cliﬀtop land overlooking Jimbaran Bay on Bali’s south-western peninsula. Its 78 private villas and 290 rooms and suites enjoy majestic views and access to unrivaled facilities, including 12 dining and lounge venues and the island’s biggest spa, Thermes Marins Bali. Travel + Leisure World’s Best Service 2007 #1 in Asia, #2 Top service overall

Privilege knows no boundaries.

Carried by the Global Elite, the world over.

By invitation only. For expression of interest call Singapore: + (65) 6295 6293 Hong Kong: + (852) 2277 2233 Thailand: + (66) 2273 5445

MORE THAN JUST A CARDâ&#x201E;˘

EXCLUSIVE OFFER FOR AMERICAN EXPRESS® PLATINUM CARDMEMBERS Take advantage of your status with this ultimate travel experience 1-FOR-1 OFFER* AT 16 DIFFERENT WORLD-CLASS RETREATS, WITH COMPLIMENTS OF BANYAN TREE HOTELS & RESORTS AND ANGSANA HOTELS & RESORTS

BANYAN TREE HOTELS & RESORTS Located in exotic destinations around the world, Banyan Tree offers a signature blend of romance and travel with a green conscience. Whether you are seeking the tranquility of a city sanctum hidden amid Bangkok’s bustling streets or the picturesque beach along the Caribbean Sea in Mexico, a Sanctuary for the Senses awaits you. Each Banyan Tree is like a theatre setting, a magical atmosphere where your dreams can come true, leaving you with indelible memories with your loved ones.

ANGSANA HOTELS & RESORTS Angsana’s selection of both contemporary and chic retreats caters to the modern traveler seeking style as well as authenticity. Each Angsana property is designed to create and deliver vibrant and enlivening experiences for our valued guests. From the exotic allure of bustling Marrakech to the pristine blue surrounds of the Maldives, we invite you to draw the most of every moment spent at Angsana Hotels & Resorts.

To turn your holiday dreams into reality, simply call your American Express Travel Consultant. *Terms & Conditions 1-for-1 offer is valid at any Banyan Tree and Angsana Hotels & Resorts exclusively for American Express Platinum Charge Cardmembers.• Valid for stay between 1 May - 31 October, 2009. • Valid with minimum two consecutive nights’ stay based on best available rates at all room categories up to Pool Villa or equivalent category. • The offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotions. • Reservations must be made through American Express Platinum Card Service • Offer and its applicable terms and conditions are subject to change without prior notice.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THIS EXCLUSIVE OFFER OR TO MAKE A BOOKING, CALL THE PLATINUM CARD® SERVICE: SINGAPORE: +(65) 6392 1177 HONG KONG: +(852) 2277 2233 THAILAND: +(66) 2 273 5599

(Destinations)06.09

Taipei 140 Hainan 100

Thai Islands 122 Trancoso, Brazil 150

Maldives 22, 130 Mentawai 54

World Weather This Month -40oF -20oF -40oC

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Issue Index Hainan 22, 99 Hong Kong 30, 44 Indonesia 68, 69, 70 Khao Lak 22 Kota Kinabalu 22 Kuala Lumpur 44 Lombok 22 Malaysia 44, 72, 74, 75

Manila 92 Mentawai, Indonesia 54 Philippines 75, 76 Phi Phi 22 Phuket 44, 56 Samui 22 Singapore 30, 44 Taipei 140

Thailand 30, 44, 79, 80, 122 Vietnam 22, 30, 44, 80, 81, 83 ASIA Maldives 22, 130 THE AMERICAS Brazil 150

Currency Converter Singapore Hong Kong Thailand Indonesia Malaysia Vietnam Macau Philippines Burma Cambodia Brunei Laos US ($1)

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1.47

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Source: www.xe.com (exchange rates at press time).

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M A P BY E T H A N CO R N E L L

SOUTHEAST ASIA Bali 22, 44, 60, 162 Bangkok 44 Batanes, Philippines 114 Borneo 30 Cambodia 30, 44, 67 Cha-Am 22 Chiang Mai 44

A V

V O

(Contents)06.09

>130 Touring the One&Only Maldives.

122 Best Kept Secrets If you’ve heard of any of these remote Thai islands, you’re one step ahead of the sun-seeking crowd looking for a quiet place to lounge, writes STUART MCDONALD. Better still, there’s a secluded spot for you on a beach facing the Gulf of Thailand or the Andaman Sea. 10

130 The Last Atoll Under an equatorial sun, with an endless sweep of colorful lagoons, the Maldives is a getaway like no other, one surprisingly close to Southeast Asia. By CHRIS KUCWAY. Photographed by NAT PRAKOBSANTISUK. GUIDE 139 140 Taipei The Next Generation In the thriving metropolis that is Taiwan’s capital, PANKAJ MISHRA finds sophisticated

JUN E 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

cuisine, ambitious architecture, vast stores of Chinese art and passionate debate about the future. Photographed by ZUBIN SHROFF. GUIDE AND MAP 149 150 Take Me To Trancoso In coastal Brazil, near a village green lined with brightly painted cottages, PETER JON LINDBERG revels in coconut juice and daily sun. Photographed by ANDERS OVERGAARD. GUIDE AND MAP 160

N AT P R A KO B S A N T I S U K

121-150 Features

BEACH BREAKS 26 ASIAN (ALL FOR US$150 OR LESS)

(Contents)06.09

TRAVEL SECRET THAI ISLANDS FAMILY 55 MUST-KNOW TIPS YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF LET ALONE VISITED!

JUNE 2009

Beaches& Islands SUMMER SPECIAL

Maldives The new and the different: why go now

Mentawai 5 fresh ways to enjoy Asia’s surf capital

Hainan Explore China’s tropical paradise

HIS AND HERS SIZZLING SWIMWEAR

Departments 14 18 20 22 24 162

Editor’s Note Contributors Letters Best Deals Ask T+L My Favorite Place

ASIA’S BEST FAMILY RESORTS

TOPPARENTS TIPS COOL & FOR BAGS FOR KIDS

WILD THINGS: GET UP CLOSE

TRAVEL

TO NATURE HEALTH 101

travelandleisuresea.com

Special ● Affordable Beach Resorts in Southeast Asia > 65 There’s nothing more relaxing than a seaside getaway, especially when it costs US$150 a night or less. T+L hunts down 26 fabulous bargain beach stays, from Vietnam’s booming Phu Quoc Island to a remote corner of Malaysian Borneo.

Plus: 20 money-saving travel deals

Cover At a presidential villa, Shangri-La, Villingili, Maldives. Photographed by Nat Prakobsantisuk. Styled by Kontee Pamaranont. Hair and make-up by Wansuk Prasert. Photographer’s assistant: Ekkarat Ubonsiri. Model: Tanja Viding. Swimsuit and dress, La Perla. Shoes by Hermès. Bracelet and ring, M.C.L.

> 114

87-92 Stylish Traveler

STRATEGIES SPECIAL

ASIA’S KIDFRIENDLY SECRETS 25

Strategies Special ● Asia’s Kid-Friendly Secrets > 27 The low-down on traveling with tykes; how to keep them occupied; where to see the region’s wildlife; what kids can eat without a fuss; staying healthy; how to pack; friendly resorts; and even how to travel with your parents!

87 His and Hers Hit the beaches in Bali or Boracay with these bright, graphic swimsuits. 90 Spas Top Spa debuts in New York City, Paris, Agra and Sardinia. BY ELIZABETH WOODSON 92 Spotlight Two Manila-based designers who are attracting attention. BY JENNIFER CHEN > 87

99-114 T+L Journal

53-60 Insider 54 Five Ways Straddling the equator off the west coast of Sumatra, the Mentawai Islands’ tropical waters are a surfer’s paradise. BY JOHN S. CALLAHAN 56 Room Report Looking for some peace and quiet in your own private bungalow? Consider this romantic getaway in Phuket’s quiet northern corner. BY JENNIFER CHEN 60 Where Next A rice-farming village on the Bali’s west coast on the verge of hitting it big. BY SAMANTHA BROWN 12

Resorts Hainan Island is a getaway with a captive mainland audience. The question then, asks JEREMY TREDDINICK, is: would you choose it for your vacation? 105 Portfolio Capturing the romance of another era in Asia, classic travel posters not only offer a glimpse into the soul of the region but double up as colorful artwork to stir the urge to venture abroad. 114 Adventure At the northern tip of the Philippines, the secluded Batanes Islands are often battered by typhoons. That, writes JOAN C. BULAUITAN, should not deter you from visiting.

R I G H T: G E O R G E TA PA N . L E F T: A R T H U R B E L E B E A U

(Editor’s Note) 06.09

EOPLE HAVE A STRONG CONNECTION with the sea. The composition

of blood and seawater is strikingly similar, perhaps reﬂecting our marine origins. More than this, we have, since recreational travel began in the 1700’s, regarded the beach as a favored location for rejuvenation and relaxation. Back then, aristocratic passengers were ferried direct to the waterfront for their bracing seaside “constitutionals” by horse-drawn carriages—perhaps, the equivalent of businessclass travel. Maybe they had something: Thalassotherapy—spa treatments using seawater—is often touted as one of the next big things to hit wellness tourism (see “The Big Deep,” February 2008). These days, we don’t have to suffer 18th-century discomfort for our dose of beach therapy, and can jet off into the sun at the click of a mouse button. Here in Asia, we are blessed with some of the best beaches in the world, and the good news is that you don’t have to break the bank for a trip to a tropical paradise—check out the 26 affordable hotels and resorts we’ve selected throughout the region (page 59), all of which can be bagged for US$150 a night or less. Elsewhere, given Thailand’s status as the most popular tourist destination in Southeast Asia, we focus on Thai islands you have (probably) never heard of. Did you know, for example, about the other Ko Chang (“Best Kept Secrets,” page 122)? We also take a long look at family travel in our Strategies section (“Asia’s Kid-Friendly Secrets,” page 27), with advice on everything from hotels that will keep the kids happy to traveling with seniors. Last, but certainly not least, is our Maldives cover and feature (“The Last Atoll,” page 130). I had intended to go on this photo shoot, but was unable. Looking at the like a monsoonal hurricane), I certainly wish I had.—MATT LEPPARD TRAVEL + L EISURE EDITORS, WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE THE INDUSTRY’S MOST RELIABLE SOURCES. WHILE ON ASSIGNMENT, THEY TRAVEL INCOGNITO WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND DO NOT TAKE PRESS TRIPS OR ACCEPT FREE TRAVEL OF ANY KIND.

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C H E N P O VA N O N T

sea, sand and sun in the feature and on the cover (and writing this during what feels

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-AT-LARGE ART DIRECTOR FEATURES EDITORS

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ART EDITOR DESIGNER EDITORIAL ASSISTANT INTERN

Ellie Brannan

Paul Ehrlich Fah Sakharet Jennifer Chen Chris Kucway Wannapha Nawayon Wasinee Chantakorn Piyanant Nimakorn

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS / PHOTOGRAPHERS Joe Yogerst, Adam Skolnick, Robyn Eckhardt, Sonia Kolesnikov-Jessop, Lara Day, Naomi Lindt Cedric Arnold, Steve McCurry, Peter Steinhauer, Nat Prakobsantisuk, Graham Uden, Darren Soh

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TRAVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA VOL. 3, ISSUE 6 Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2851-6963; Fax: +852 2851-1933; under license from American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Produced and distributed by Media Transasia Thailand Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoeynue, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: +66 2 204-2370. Printed by Comform Co., Ltd. (+66 2 368-2942–7). Color separation by Classic Scan Co., Ltd. (+66 2 291-7575). While the editors do their utmost to verify information published, they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy.

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(Contributors) 06.09 at Prakobsantisuk “The Maldives is a natural and a man-made paradise, which everyone should experience at least once in their life,” says Nat (“The Last Atoll,” page 130). The Bangkok-based fashion photographer has now been to the Indian Ocean islands several times on assignment and admits he would love to return. “The sun is never stronger elsewhere, the sea never prettier,” he says. “I am constantly surprised that every color I can think of appears in front of me.”

Stuart McDonald

Anders Overgaard

Some of the best tropical “When I’m sizing up a “Beautiful people, boat, the most important surf conditions in the beautiful beaches and factor is the boatman,” world are what attracts long, starlit nights”— says McDonald, who Callahan to the Mentawi that’s how Overgaard wrote this month’s feature summed up his visit to Islands (“Where the on Thai islands (“Best Breaks Are,” page 54) in Trancoso, Brazil (“Take Indonesia. “It’s a pleasure Kept Secrets,” page 122). Me to Trancoso,” page “Old, leathery and to board the boat in the 150). “I was thrilled to smoking rollies, no evening in Padang,” he finally get to Brazil,” he problems. Young, with a says, “and get a briefing says. “The people have a pack of Marlboros stuffed who-cares-abouton how not to fall in his shirt pocket, I ask a tomorrow attitude that is overboard at night.” The lot of questions.” Based in very attractive— photographer says it’s a Bali, McDonald manages especially right now.” place where “the anchor travelfish.org, and loves chain rattling out of the Overgaard also shoots for planning extensive water at dawn is the GQ , Harper’s Bazaar and Indonesian journeys. alarm clock.” Marie Claire.

A B O V E , F R O M T O P : N AT P R A K O B S A N T I S U K ; C H R I S K U C W AY B E L O W, F R O M FA R L E F T : C O U R T E SY O F J O H N S . C A L L A H A N ; C O U R T E SY O F S T U A R T M C D O N A L D ; C O U R T E SY O F A N D E R S O V E R G A A R D

John S. Callahan

Above: At the new Shangri-La Villingili. Below: Nat shooting in paradise.

(Letters)06.09 t+l journal | shopping

U.K.

London Treasure Hunt On an antiques-shopping adventure in the English capital, LYNN YAEGER discovers one-of-a-kind jewelry at too-good-to-believe prices. Photographed by EMILY MOTT

Sterling Pursuits Clockwise from top left: A print shop on Portobello Road; 19thcentury brooches; the Mondays-only market at Covent Garden; shoppers on Portobello Road.

HEN WILLIAM FAULKNER REMARKED that the past is not dead, that, in fact, it’s not even past, he didn’t go far enough. I am walking down Portobello Road and the evidence of the past is glowing, vibrating, bouncing all around me: frames and fountain pens, toys and tortoiseshell, watches and walking sticks, pewter and perfume bottles—something for every collector’s taste. I’ve been coming to Portobello since I was a teenager searching for Victorian velvet dresses that cost £1, and as my tastes have grown more reﬁned I have only found more to enchant me. The sheer range of collectibles in this small corner of London is astonishing enough, and then there are the vendors—from thrillingly erudite to downright nutty—who expand your knowledge even as they shrink your budget.

DAY 1,500 DEALERS AWAIT It’s 8:30 on a clear 1 Saturday morning, the earliest I can manage to get here, though friends have urged me to arrive sooner, since they say the serious trading is over by now. This is the first outing of a long weekend dedicated to antiquing in London that I’ve been planning since the days the pound soared; by the time I amble down Portobello, past the plaque on George Orwell’s old house, the exchange rate is more favorable, an unexpected bonus but not something I’d counted on. In truth, I always find bargains in London when it comes to quirky antiques and curios I could never come across in the U.S. These three blocks are near to paradise for me, and I’m swimming in the ecstasy of anticipation when I see my friend Allen Ward, a jewelry dealer who’s been setting up at Portobello for 15 years. I tell him I’m heading for the Central Gallery, where the fanciest jewelry is, and he crinkles his nose. “Too rich for me in there,” he sniffs. So we make a plan to meet at our mutual friend Vanessa Williams’s stall in a few hours. At the Central Gallery, the narrow middle aisle is thronged with shoppers. And if offerings are hardly bargain-basement, they are exquisite and well worth the prices, which are at least a third less than they would be in New York. Between this place and the Crown Arcade, where high-end jewelry people congregate in the back, my budget is rapidly expanding upward. Instead of a self-imposed £350 limit, why can’t I spend £720 for that 19th-century bracelet dangling a mine-cut diamond heart? To distract myself, I contemplate the offerings at the Portobello Print & Map Shop and am sorely tempted by a drawing of two lady golfers in sporty ensembles (circa 1910) for £20. I wonder if I need a frankly fake horn-handled magnifying glass, for sale at an outdoor table, or an authentic print of Babar the Elephant for £9, from a stack at a stall in the middle of the street. By the time I get to Vanessa’s booth, in Rogers Antiques Gallery, an arcade with a wildly eclectic range of merchandise, the diamond bracelet has become an obsession. “Why can’t I spend £720?” I wail. Vanessa laughs and shows me what’s new with her. While she’s unveiling a stupendous diamond bird in its original box for £1,590, a Japanese fashionista in a vintage coat is mesmerized by a long silver-and-crystal necklace from the 1920’s marked £56. A calculator gets whipped out to figure the yen-pound conversion. Vanessa whispers to me that she can’t keep these chains in stock. I wish I wanted an Art Deco chain. But I don’t. I want that bracelet. I keep pining until Allen comes by and takes me to 91 Portobello, the arcade where he sets up. He introduces me to Jacquie Borsberry of Jacquie’s Costume Jewellery and her extraordinary collection of Czech glass bracelets, Egyptian-Revival pendants and 1960’s Pop Art flower

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brooches that could have been plucked from Twiggy’s boudoir. “What recession? Jacquie’s here every Saturday in her little shoppette,” the proprietress laughs. By 1 P.M. the street is thick with tourists. It suddenly occurs to me that Mycal Tupper, my diamond-bracelet guy, may be packing up early, so, heart racing, I rush over, and though I have nowhere near £720 in English money and he, like many dealers, is loath to take credit cards, we ﬁnd a way—he accepts an American check and the deal is done. Oh well. At least I make him throw in a nice vintage box to conceal my shameful deed. DAY THE ALEXANDRA PALACE Some people 2 wouldn’t relish wandering around a 600-dealer show after having done the same thing the day before, but, as Rose says in Gypsy, some people ain’t me. Like a gourmand planning a fancy dinner while still savoring lunch, I simply do not tire of antiquing. On Sunday morning I head out at the civilized hour of 10 A.M. to a vast show at the Alexandra Palace, or the Ally Pally, as it’s familiarly called. The Pally, a spectacular Victorian pile, is reachable by taxi but I’d recommend the Tube—even if your pockets are deep, do you want to spend nearly £58 on a cab before you even get there? Though it was pouring when I left the hotel, the sun is streaming through the Pally’s glass dome as I pay my £5 admission and enter the show, which offers a range of popularly priced merchandise so diverse that I decide to concentrate on British-made goods, my assumption being that this should be where the bargains are. In short order I see, for less than £100, Victorian Wedgwood bowls; a 1987 Sex Pistols calendar; a plaster bust of Churchill; a small wooden trinket box shaped like a house and decorated with pictures of rural churches; and a circa-1925 velvet doll in a white nightdress with a tag that says she was made in England by the Chad Valley company. (I purchase these » Antiques maven Carole Collier and friend at the Jubilee Market.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

C O M | M AY

2 0 0 9

LETTER OF THE MONTH Laughing Matters

I had to laugh out loud when I read what Lynn Yaeger buys and how she shops [“London Treasure Hunt,” May 2009] on her journey through antique shops in England. Then I stopped to consider what she didn’t buy—a 1987 Sex Pistols calendar!—and that gave me a breather. Then I turned a few pages to chuckle at Guy Trebay’s luggage travails [“Baggage Check”]. We know where it is. It just isn’t where it’s supposed to be sums up everything you need to know about lost bags. Thankfully, as you note at the end of his great tale, he eventually got his suitcase back. — PAU L

T S A N G , H O N G KO N G

Penang’s Rich Past Robyn Eckhardt did great work in capturing the essence of Penang [“Eat the Breeze,” March 2009], its delicious hawker fare, heritage and history. Even Malaysians who live in Kuala Lumpur

✉

often travel to Penang to savor the delicious dishes there. Still, I would like to add to the list of where to eat and drink, places that were not covered in the story. The four coffee shops at Swatow Lane, Lorong Selamat, McAlister Road (next to the Sunway Hotel) and Keck Seng at Penang Road serve the best char koay teow, asam laksa, rojak, lorbak, mee jawa and ice kacang. For a little bit of history, I was told how the famous dish called curry kapitan (curry chicken) came about. Captain Francis Light was served the dish and asked what it was. The waiter saluted and said, “Curry, Kapitan.” —JEFFREY

C H E A H , K UA L A LU M P U R

Soul of the City I enjoyed your article on Seoul [“Seoul Fast Forward,” April 2009], mostly because it didn’t focus on the “Korean Wave” of entertainment, but on the fascinating city itself. Seoul has a lot to offer, but sometimes the media tend to focus on pretty-boy pop stars and lame TV shows rather than the immense variety of experiences on offer. —KANNIKA

S R I S U R AT , BA N G KO K

Correction: In the April 2009 issue of T+L SEA, we stated that the cost of accommodation at Bawa House 87 in Sri Lanka starts from US$100 per night. In fact, this private villa—serviced by two cooks, two gardeners, a caretaker, butler, housekeeper and concierge—starts from US$500 per night, with a separate house available for an additional US$100. We regret any misunderstanding.

E-MAIL T+L SEND YOUR LETTERS TO EDITOR @ TRAVELANDLEISURESEA.COM AND LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS ON RECENT STORIES OR NEW PLACES TO VISIT. LETTERS CHOSEN MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY AND SPACE. THE LETTER OF THE MONTH RECEIVES A FREE ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO TRAVEL + LEISURE ( SOUTHEAST ASIA ONLY). READER OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN LETTERS DO NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THOSE OF TRAVEL + LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA, MEDIA TRANSASIA LTD., OR AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING.

(Best Deals) 06.09

A pool villa at the Mandarin Oriental Sanya.

■ CHINA Opening offer at the Mandarin Oriental, Sanya (86-898/8820-9999; mandarinoriental. com) on Hainan island. What’s Included Three nights for the price of two; daily breakfast for paid-for nights; and late checkout until 6 P.M. upon availability. Cost From RMB1,779 per night, through September 30. Savings Up to 33 percent. ■ MALDIVES Special introductory offer at the Alila Villas Hadahaa (960/682-8888; alilahotels. com). What’s Included A ﬁve-night stay, including two complimentary nights; daily breakfast; a welcome gift; a choice of a snorkeling tour, a cultural tour or an hourlong spa treatment; a private dinner on your deck; and a bonus night offer. Cost US$2,250, from August 1–September 30, additional nights available at US$750. Savings Up to 45 percent. 22

Summer promotion at Angsana Velavaru (960/676-0028; angsana.com). What’s Included US$100 credit per night for the resort’s recreational activities, food or spa treatments is given to guests who book the Beachfront Jet Pool Villa or Deluxe Beachfront Pool Villa. Cost From US$295 per night, through October 31. Savings Up to 25 percent. Angsana Velavaru.

JUN E 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

■ THAILAND Zdive @ Zeavola! Package at the Zeavola Resort (66-75/627-000; zeavola.com) on Ko Phi Phi. What’s Included Accommodation in a Village Suite; daily breakfast; a dive per day, including boat transfer and equipment; and complimentary Wi-Fi. Cost Bt8,800 per night, through October 31. Savings Up to 45 percent. Couples Celebration package at the Alila Cha-Am (66-32/709-555; alilahotels.com). What’s Included A two-night stay in a deluxe room; daily breakfast; an hour-long massage for two; and a dinner for two with a glass of wine per person. Cost Bt14,600, through December 31. Savings 43 percent. Green Season offer at the Pimalai Resort & Spa (66-75/607-999; pimalai.com) on Ko Lanta. What’s Included Bonus nights: a three-night stay for the price of two; a 4–5

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L , S A N YA ; C O U R T E S Y O F A N G S A N A V E L AVA R U

We found 14 budget-friendly packages at some of Asia’s best beach and island getaways

night stay for the price of three; a six-night stay for the price of four, etc.; daily breakfast; and for guests booking a beach or pool villa, complimentary half-board (dinner). Cost From Bt8,500 per night, through October 31. Savings Up to 40 percent.

A room at The Tongsai Bay.

Resort Escapes package at The Tongsai Bay (65/6784-0300; summithotels.com) on Ko Samui. What’s Included A two-night stay in a beachfront suite; daily breakfast; roundtrip airport transfer; a Thai dinner for two; an hour-long massage for two; and one music CD. Cost Bt20,716, through December 20. Savings 40 percent. Samui Family Getaway package at the Impiana Samui Resort & Spa (66-77/422011; impiana.com). What’s Included A two-

night stay; daily breakfast; daily set dinner; a Thai or foot massage; and round-trip airport transfer. Cost From Bt6,900, through December 31. Savings 40 percent.

C O U R T E S Y O F T H E T O N G S A I B AY

■ INDONESIA Romance in Paradise Package from Hotel Tugu Bali (62-361/731-701; tuguhotels.com). What’s Included A ﬁve-night stay in a suite; daily breakfast; round-trip airport transfer; a foot and shoulder massage; a bottle of sparkling wine; a beachside dinner; a dinner at Waroeng Tugu; daily high tea; a Keraton spa treatment for two; and two souvenir bathrobes. Cost From US$2,115, through March 31, 2010 (not applicable July 15–August 31 and December 20, 2009– January 5, 2010). Savings Up to 30 percent. Classic Bali at the Amandari (62-361/975333; amanresorts.com) in Ubud. What’s Included A three-night stay; daily breakfast; round-trip airport transfer; an Indonesian set dinner; and your choice of a trek, cooking class, massage, dance lesson, session with a traditional healer, or tour of local artisans. Cost From US$2,550, through April 30, 2010 (not applicable December 22–January 6, 2010). Savings Up to 20 percent. Best Deal package at the Komaneka at Tanggayuda (62-361/978-123; komaneka. com) in Ubud. What’s Included A two-night stay in a pool villa; round-trip airport transfer; daily breakfast; daily afternoon tea; a dinner; a visit to The Neka Art Museum;

and an hour-long massage. Cost US$628, through December 31. Savings 20 percent. A Retreat to the Island of Bliss package at Hotel Tugu Lombok (62-370/620-111; tuguhotels.com). What’s Included A threenight stay in a suite; daily breakfast; roundtrip airport transfer; a foot and shoulder massage; a bottle of champagne; a dinner; a tour to the Gangga waterfalls; a 90-minute massage for two; a half-day boat ride around the island with a picnic lunch; and daily high tea. Cost From US$1,175, through March 31, 2010 (not applicable July 15–August 31 and December 20–January 5, 2010). Savings Up to 40 percent. ■ MALAYSIA Borneo Getaway package at the ShangriLa Tanjung Aru Resort and Spa (6088/327-888; shangri-la.com) in Kota Kinabalu. What’s Included A free room upgrade; daily breakfast; a welcome drink; a dinner for two at Café TATU; complimentary use of Kids Club facility for children; and complimentary one-way shuttle service to the city. Cost From RM465 per night, through June 30. Savings Up to 20 percent. ■ VIETNAM T+L Exclusive Ultimate Golf Getaway package at the Novotel Phan Thiet Ocean Dunes & Golf Resort (84-62/3822-393; novotel.com/2067). What’s Included A free upgrade; daily breakfast; one round of golf; and a free night for every three nights. Cost From US$110 per night, through October 31. Savings Up to 40 percent.

I’M PLANNING A LIVE ABOARD DIVE VACATION IN INDONESIA. ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHERE I SHOULD GO? —NICK LAURENCE, HONG KONG

There’s no shortage of dive boats operating in the waters off North Sulawesi, but a detailed website like divinginsulawesi.com is best when it comes to comparing dates, the length of trips—which varies from seven days to two weeks—and prices. By way of example, a seven-night journey on the refurbished, six-cabin Pelagian in July starts at US$2,790 and includes accommodation in a standard cabin, all meals and drinks aside from alcohol, and four dives per day. The operator is quick to point out that the Bali–Wakatobi return airfare costs an additional US$465.

06.09 How much should I be worried about flu coming out of Mexico if I plan to travel in Asia? —JOSH BANTAN, JAKARTA

This latest virus is in its early stages, so information is changing fast. As with other global illnesses, the best measure against it is common sense. Follow the daily updates on the ﬂu, particularly where you live and where you would like to travel. When traveling, the best medical advice is to wash your hands frequently and try to avoid surfaces that see a lot of public trafﬁc (door knobs, phones, tables, elevator buttons). Since this is an airborne virus, if in any doubt, wearing a mask can’t hurt though it’s not a foolproof measure. The good news is that destinations such as China, Hong Kong, Japan and Taiwan have already tightened their customs and immigration procedures, and others are likely to follow should the virus spread. Has the political situation in Thailand stabilized and what kind of deals are available right now? —CLARA ONG, SINGAPORE

As of press time, things have calmed down considerably since the turmoil in April. Keep in mind that for the past two years, the political protests have by in large been conﬁned to speciﬁc areas of Bangkok and foreign tourists haven’t been targets. April’s unrest has dented the country’s tourism industry, but that means it’s a buyer’s market. A good place for deals is the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s website, amazingthailand. tourismthailand.org. Online discount booking sites such as agoda.com and wotif.com are also posting heavily marked down rates. And make sure to check out our regular Best Deals department every month. ✚

✉

E-MAIL T+L SEND YOUR QUESTIONS TO EDITOR @ TRAVELANDLEISURESEA.COM. QUESTIONS CHOSEN FOR PUBLICATION MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY AND SPACE .

I L L U S T R AT E D BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N

(Ask T+L)

ASIA’S BEST FAMILY RESORTS

COOL & BAGS FOR KIDS

TOP TIPS FOR PARENTS

WILD THINGS: GET UP CLOSE

TRAVEL

TO NATURE HEALTH 101

C A P E M A Y, N E W J E S E R Y. B U F F S T R I C K L A N D

STRATEGIES SPECIAL

ASIA’S KIDFRIENDLY SECRETS 27

news

ESSENTIAL TRAVEL TIPS WHAT TO PLAY

ROAD GAMES

ASK THE EXPERT

How to keep your young explorers happily occupied during those long journeys. BY PIYANANT NIMAKORN

Travel can be tough on schoolaged children, but there are plenty of ways to help them pass the time. Encourage them to keep a diary or journal—it’s a great way to engage them and record memories. New York–based publisher the Little Bookroom What do you do with a screaming baby on a plane? “Basically you need to meet their needs. It’s a hard one: you’re on a plane, you’re conscious of the other passengers. But just focus on what the baby might need: are they tired, hungry or need their nappy changed? And try not to be stressed because the baby picks up on that and that makes the whole situation worse.” Which destinations in Asia are the most kid-friendly? “Depends on what you’re looking for. Bali is still an easy beach destination. Thailand, Malaysia and Singapore are also easy because of transport, attitudes towards children, lots of things to interest children. These destinations are also accustomed to families. That said, a lot of families travel to Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos, which are slightly more challenging. There are different risks there: health, transport. Sometimes distances can be daunting—China would be hard just because of the sheer distances.” How late into a pregnancy can you fly? “It varies from airline to airline and between domestic and international flights. Generally the advice is 36 weeks, after which you need to have a note from your doctor providing clearance.” 28

Would you let your kids eat street food? “That’s always a dilemma— what you do yourself versus what you do for your kids. Plenty of families eat street food with their kids and have lived to tell the tale, but I would probably err on the side of caution and go to restaurants frequented by locals.”

(littlebookroom.com) offers a

What do you do about fussy eaters on the road? “Well I’ve got two fussy eaters … Bring some food yourself, that you’re allowed to bring into the country. Usually you’ll find something they’ll eat. Rice, pancakes, fresh fruit—most kids will eat these. And cater to their needs— they’re dealing with enough change. You might want to do research on the cuisine to figure out what they’ll eat. Or go to a restaurant with that cuisine at home to get your kids used to the food.”

world culture with Passport to

Taxis, buses, private cars or trains? “Trains are a good way to travel with children—they’re more comfortable and often safer. The other option, depending on where you are, is to hire your own driver and a car with seatbelts. That’s easy to do in a country like Malaysia. But you often have to go with the flow. If you want to be there, to some degree you have to go with the flow.”

plane editions. It’s also

JUN E 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

children’s travel journal (US$19.95) with whimsical pen-and-ink drawings and pages where they can write down first impressions, weird food encounters and more. Expand their knowledge of Culture® (passporttoculture. com; US$29.95), a Trivial Pursuit–style game where players circle the globe by answering questions about the customs, traditions, history and more of every country in the world. Are We There Yet? (funagain.com; US$8.95) is a card game take on Eye-Spy— with separate car and an impromptu language lesson: each card is printed in English, Spanish and French.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F C AT H Y L A N I G A N ; © M K U C O VA / i S T O C K P H O T O . C O M ; © B O R I S Z I L L U S T R AT I O N / i S T O C K P H O T O . C O M

From flying with babies to child-friendly spots, Cathy Lanigan, coordinating author of Lonely Planet’s Traveling with Children and mother of two, dishes out sound advice. BY JENNIFER CHEN

Exceptional Value is always in style

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AC TIVITI E S

where the wild Introduce your kids to Asia’s amazing animals, birds and marine life, and teach them

Malaysia Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre The Place A 4,400-hectare patch of protected forest on the edge of a forest reserve in northeastern Borneo. What to See Dozens of orangutans of all ages swinging around and learning survival skills so they can return to the wild. Fun Factor Daily feeding times (10 A.M. and 3 P.M. on most days) are a raucous, intimate affair where onlookers get to handle the bananas. 23 kilometers from Sandakan; 60-89/531180; sabahtourism.com; admission RM30.

Hong Kong Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden The Place A conservation and education center set in a 65hectare valley brimming with

Jurong Bird Park

streams, dense woodlands and vegetable terraces, in the foothills of Tai Mo Shan. What to See Kilometers of walking paths wind along a lush landscape of flowers and specialty trees; stops include an orchid greenhouse and a butterfly garden. Fun Factor Hike up to the 549meter-high Kwun Yum Shan viewpoint for stunning vistas over the New Territories and beyond. Lam Kam Rd.; 852/2483-7200; www.kfbg.org; admission HK$10. ✚

Singapore Singapore Zoo The Place A network of walking trails, boat rides and tram routes interconnects native-like habitats of over 300 species. What to See Every day is packed with thrilling live shows—like somersaulting sea lions and hungry white tigers. There’s also an area where orangutans can roam free. Fun Factor Guests who book a seat

Underwater World

at the Jungle Breakfast share a meal with elephants and orangutans. 80 Mandai Lake Rd.; 65/6269-3411; zoo. com.sg; admission S$18. Jurong Bird Park The Place With more than 8,000 birds inhabiting some 20 hectares, this open-concept park boasts one of the world’s best collections. What to See In addition to four, large walk-in aviaries, there’s a pelican cove, nocturnal bird house and penguin exhibit. Fun Factor The nine-story Lory Loft lets visitors feed and hold freeﬂying tropical birds. 2 Jurong Hill; 65/6265-0022; www.birdpark.com.sg; admission S$18. Underwater World The Place From coastal creatures

to kings of the ocean’s depths, the Sentosa Island oceanarium is home to 250 aquatic species. What to See An 82-meter-long moving walkway carries spectators

F RO M TO P L E F T: CO U RT E SY O F S I N G A P O R E ZO O ; CO U RT E SY O F J U RO N G B I R D PA R K ; CO U RT E SY O F U N D E R WAT E R W O R L D . I L L U S T R AT E D BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N

The Singapore Zoo

things are a thing or two about conservation at these zoos and parks.

through a glass tunnel ﬁlled with stingrays, sharks and schools of ﬁsh. Fun Factor If everyone’s craving more after the dolphin show, book a guided swim with the mammals. 80 Siloso Rd., Sentosa Island; 65/62750030; www.underwaterworld.com.sg; admission S$22.90

F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E SY O F S E P I L O K O R A N G U TA N R E H A B I L I TAT I O N C E N T R E ; C O U R T E SY E L E P H A N T N AT U R E PA R K

Cambodia Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Center The Place A 2,300-hectare safarilike park that’s home to more than 1,100 animals, most of which have been confiscated from wildlife traffickers and exotic pet traders. What to See Tigers, sun bears, rare birds, clouded leopards and elephants (who have been known to paint) in spacious enclosures. Fun Factor At the recently built Bear Discovery Centre, kids participate in an immersive lesson all about bears and the need to protect them. 44 kilometers south of Phnom Penh; 855/12-875-413; admission US$5.

Thailand Elephant Nature Park The Place A sanctuary for more than 30 elephants that have been rescued from across Thailand. What to See Elephants, up close and personal, thundering through a rice valley that’s surrounded by forested mountains. Fun Factor Day trips allow visitors to feed and bathe the animals with conservationists; overnight stays involve even more hands-on caretaking. 56 kilometers north of Chiang Mai; 66-53/818-754 or 66-53/818932; elephantnaturepark.org; packages from Bt2,500. Siam Ocean World The Place Located in Bangkok’s ritziest mall, Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium is home to 30,000 animals and more than 400 species. What to See There are seven zones to explore, from colorful reef systems teeming with ﬁsh to fun penguin habitats.

Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre

BY NAOMI LINDT

Fun Factor Book a seat on the glassbottom boat for a bird’s-eye view of the creatures of the ocean blue. Levels B1–B2, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd.; 66-2/687-2000; siamoceanworld.co.th; admission Bt850.

Vietnam Endangered Primate Rescue Center The Place Located within Cuc Phuong National Park, south of Hanoi, the center is a safe haven for rare monkeys that have been rescued from traders and poachers. What to See More than 140 primates, including langurs, macaques and gibbons, frolic in enclosures built around primary forest. Many of the residents—such as the golden-headed langur—are critically endangered. Fun Factor Make the visit an overnight adventure and stay at one of the park’s bungalows. Cuc Phuong National Park, 120 kilometers south of Hanoi; 84-30/848-002; www. primatecenter.org; admission is free. ✚

Elephant Nature Park

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You’ve taught your ﬂock to talk like the animals. But you may not realize that creatures “speak” differently from place to place. We gathered a cacophony of barnyard sounds for you to try out—you can listen to many of them (and contribute your own) at bzzzpeek. com. Altogether now: a round of “Old McDonald” in Turkish! —KATHRYN O’SHEA-EVANS 32

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From its breathtaking location on a headland jutting into the Gulf of Thailand, Six Senses Hideaway Samui is everything that breathes life into the word idyllic. Honored with plaudits such as Number One in the World, by the readers of CondĂŠ Nast Traveller 2008, this all-villa resort redefines hospitality for this beautiful island.

SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY SAMUI Koh Samui, Thailand T: +66 (0) 77 2 45678 E: reservations-samui@sixsenses.com www.sixsenses.com

FOOD

clean your plate 1

Spring rolls are a popular item across the region, and none more so than chá giò, the deep-fried Vietnamese version consisting of a rice-paper roll filled with pork, shrimp, rice vermicelli and mushrooms. Slightly more adventurous kids can branch out to goi cuõn, or fresh spring rolls that contain shrimp, mushrooms, herbs and rice vermicelli.

Noodle dishes abound in Thailand, with pad thai being the most common and least likely to offend young palates. Thin rice noodles, bean sprouts, cubes of tofu, egg, ground peanuts and lime juice all mix with shrimp, chicken or pork. Just remember to remove the dried shrimp to avoid mealtime pouts.

When it’s time for dessert, air batu campur, or ABC, hits the spot. Served mainly in Malaysia and Singapore, the brightly colored dish consists of ice served with sweet flavored syrup and jelly. Condensed milk is poured over the ice, while durian, chocolate syrup and ice cream are now common toppings.

Chicken, beef, lamb or fish can all be the main ingredient when it comes to Indonesian saté, marinated with turmeric, soy sauce and garlic. The good news is that saté is also widely available in Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand too. The obvious warning here is to make sure the peanut dipping sauce isn’t too spicy.

BY CHRIS KUCWAY

9-YEAR-OLD nephew, who all too often sounds as if he’s 40, is definitely a kid when it comes to eating new things. If something appears unannounced on his plate, his mother automatically switches to her monotone explanation mode: “It’s fish.” As any parent in Asia will tell you, traveling with young kids around this culinary-rich region can be a nightmare. Yet, it needn’t be. Sure, young palates aren’t necessarily going to enjoy three-chilirated Thai food or some of the more awkward dim sum offerings available in a Chinese restaurant. But these six standbys from around Southeast Asia will do the trick nicely when chicken wings and french fries are nowhere in sight. ✚ Y

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Chinese fried rice is probably the ultimate comfort food and is open to as many variations when it comes to ingredients as you can think of. It’s a great dish for what it can hide as well as what it can include, with almost any vegetable or meat blended with a dash of sesame oil, and sometimes, soy sauce and oyster sauce.

Call it Singapore’s version of a pancake and roti prata, a combination of egg, flour and water, is an easy sell. Sprinkle some sugar on it, and the evolved version of an Indian paratha is even more delicious. A thin version, tissue prata, is even eaten with bananas or chocolate these days, blurring the line between dinner and dessert.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: © PA N G F O L I O / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; © J U M P P H O T O G R A P H Y / I S T O C K P H O T O . C O M ; © F O R T U N E-A U G U S TA / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; © BLOOPIERS / DREAMSTIME.COM © PHOTOSOUP / ISTOCKPHOTO.COM; © ROHIT SETH / ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Pungent curries and chili-spiked dishes might not appeal to kids, but here are some Southeast Asian classics that will surely tempt them.

road test: fast food Chicken nuggets or a burger? Onion rings or fries? American nutrition professor Lisa Sasson lets us know the smartest kid-friendly choices to make when highway hunger strikes. BY JANE MARGOLIES the verdict

GLAZED DOUGHNUT 230 calories, 10g fat, 4.5g saturated fat, 4g protein

VS.

CINNAMON RAISIN BAGEL WITH 2OZ CREAM CHEESE 520 calories, 20g fat, 13.5g saturated fat, 14g protein

McDonald’s HAMBURGER 250 calories, 9g fat, 3.5g saturated fat, 12g protein

VS.

SIX CHICKEN MCNUGGETS 280 calories, 17g fat, 3g saturated fat, 14g protein

SIX-INCH TUNA SANDWICH 530 calories, 31g fat, 7g saturated fat, 22g protein

“Turkey is the healthier option, and I’d order the six-inch size if that’ll satisfy the kids. Get whole-wheat bread, choose mustard instead of a fatty dressing, pile on as many fresh vegetables as your children will allow—and skip the pickles and olives, which only add sodium.“

BEAN BURRITO 350 calories, 9g fat, 3.5g saturated fat, 13g protein

“The burrito is the way to go—beans have fiber and nutrients—especially compared with the quesadilla, a fat and calorie bomb. I’d specify the Fresco bean burrito— it has tomatoes and onions but no cheese or red sauce, shaving off fat and calories.”

Subway SIX-INCH TURKEY SANDWICH 280 calories, 4.5g fat, 1.5g saturated fat, 18g protein

VS.

Taco Bell CHEESE QUESADILLA 470 calories, 26g fat, 12g saturated fat, 19g protein

VS.

Burger King VALUE-SIZE ONION RINGS 150 calories, 8g fat, 1.5g saturated fat, 2g protein

VS.

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“I’d pick the hamburger because it has a little less fat and is probably more filling. Add one of the salads or the apple slices from the menu board to make it a healthier meal.”

VALUE-SIZE FRENCH FRIES 220 calories, 11g fat, 2.5g saturated fat, 2g protein

“Both are full of junk— look at the ingredient lists!—but if you have no preference, get the onion rings. They’ll save you 90 calories. Then you can have a Dunkin’ doughnut for dessert!” ✚

F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F D U N K I N ’ D O N U TS ( 2 ) ; CO U RT ESY O F M C D O N A L D ’S ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F S U B W AY ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F TA C O B E L L ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F B U R G E R K I N G ( 2 )

Dunkin’ Donuts

“Even though the bagel has more fat and calories, it’s still the better choice— at least it’s in the realm of real breakfast food, as opposed to an emptycalorie treat. But I’d skim off all but a thin coating of cream cheese and only eat half the bagel.”

H E A LT H

staying healthy on the road From mosquito bites to food poisoning, we ask experts for advice on keeping your kids in good health while on holiday. BY SONIA KOLESNIKOV-JESSOP. ILLUSTR ATED BY WASINEE CHANTAKORN

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Motion Sickness Don’t let your children eat a heavy meal for up to two hours prior to and during a car or boat trip. On a longer journey, feed them only easily digested foods such as fruit and bread, advises Dr. Wendy Sinnathamby, a pediatrician at the University Children’s Medical Institute at the National University Hospital in Singapore. If those stomachs are still growling, distract them by playing games or pointing out interesting things outside.

Stomach Aches The best

way to prevent stomach trouble is to watch what you eat and how you eat it, says Dr. Thoon Koh Cheng of KK Women’s and Children’s Hospital in Singapore. Steer clear of salads, raw vegetables, tap water and ice cubes. Instead, feed your children food that has been fully cooked and fruit that you can peel yourself. Keep a bottle of drinking water by the sink for brushing teeth. Also, pack some water sterilization tablets to sterilize teething toys and pacifiers.

Heat Stroke Walking around temples or playing on the beach all day can take a toll on a little body, so carry bottled water at all times and ensure the youngsters drink often. In case they do become dehydrated, don’t give them soft drinks. Sodas contain too much sugar and not enough potassium and salt, a combination that actually makes dehydration worse, says Dr. Deborah Mills, an Australian travel medicine specialist who runs the website, thetraveldoctor.com.au.

Traveler’s Belly If your children do develop diarrhea, give them oral rehydration solution, found at pharmacies in the more developed countries in the region. You can also make your own with two tablespoons of sugar and a quarter teaspoon of salt in a liter of pure water, plus a quarter teaspoon of baking soda if available, says Dr. Thoon. Meanwhile, babies should continue to breastfeed or drink formula while older children should eat starchy foods such as cooked rice, maize, toasted bread, potatoes and bananas, says Dr. Mills.

Vaccinations Four to

eight weeks before your trip, check what immunizations and medications are required or recommended. “I recommend the usual childhood vaccines plus Hepatitis A and sometimes typhoid and rabies depending on the destination,” says Dr. Mills. If you are traveling to a malaria-prone country—for example, Indonesia, Cambodia and Laos—ask your doctor to prescribe an appropriate prophylaxis, adds Dr. Sinnathamby. Chloroquine resistance is now common, so do a bit of research on the best kind of prophylaxis. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control’s website (cdc.gov/travel) is an excellent source of information on diseases and other travel health issues. And if your child is on regular medication, make sure there’s enough for the entire trip and get a doctor’s letter so you don’t run into any trouble at customs.

Sun Protection Children are more vulnerable to sunstroke, which can be fatal. So make sure your kids wear wide-brimmed hats that provide enough shade for their faces and necks. Choose a sun bock with a SPF factor of at least 15, apply it at least 30 minutes before going out and remember to re-apply every two hours, even if it’s advertised as being waterproof. It’s also a good idea to buy a good quality swimsuit that keeps UV rays out—and make sure those hats stay on while you’re at the beach.

Mosquito Bites The best

way to prevent malaria and other mosquito-borne illnesses is to prevent the pests from biting in the first place. With that in mind, wear long-sleeved, light-colored clothes and pants. When it comes to accommodations, stay in airconditioned rooms with mosquito nets for the beds. During the day, insect repellent with 30 percent DEET gives good protection for anyone over two months and should last for 4–5 hours, says Dr. Mills. »

Flying To help younger ones cope with ear pressure, give them something to drink during take-offs and landings. “Swallowing makes the eustachian tubes open so the pressure equalizes between outer ear and middle ear. Screaming does the same thing, but is less socially acceptable,” explains Dr. Mills. T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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H E A LT H

Snake Bites and Bee Stings With a snake

bite, keep your child calm and as still as possible, says Dr. Sinnathamby. Immobilize the limb where he or she has been bitten with a splint and bandage to minimize absorption of the venom and get to the nearest medical facility. For bee stings, scrape off the stinger—the little black dot in the center of a reddened area—with a fingernail. Don’t squeeze the stinger with your fingers or tweezers because that could release more venom. Then wash the area and apply ice to decrease swelling, says Dr. Sinnathamby. If your child develops an allergic reaction, such as swelling of the lips and tongue or breathing difficulties, give him or her an antihistamine and hurry to the nearest clinic, she says. For children with known allergies to bee stings, ask your pediatrician for EpiPen Jr., an injection loaded with epinephrine, more commonly known as adrenaline, which counters a possibly fatal reaction.

Water Dangers Poolside areas are slippery, but you can prevent falls with slip-resistant footwear. If you’re traveling with an infant, invest in a carry cot that can double up as a play pen by the pool. At the beach, treat any cuts or scrapes caused by coral by pulling out any fragments with tweezers, washing the wound thoroughly with soap and water, and applying witch hazel, which eases the sting. Jellyfish stings are more serious. First, pour vinegar over the tentacles to inactivate them, says Dr. Mills. Then, carefully lift off any tentacle fragments with a knife or piece of driftwood, without dragging

them across the skin. Anesthetic ointment, calamine lotion or an ice pack should then be applied to the wound. Don’t rub the wound with bare hands or wet sand—that only aggravates the sting, Dr. Mills says. Seek medical advice immediately if your child is in serious pain. With sea urchin stings, immerse the injured area in hot water (take care that it’s not scalding), and remove the visible spines, but try not to dig around the skin. Then, get your child to a doctor. ✚

THE ESSENTIAL FAMILY TRAVEL MEDICAL KIT • Bandages and plasters • Antiseptic wipes/solutions • Thermometer • Oral rehydration salts • Sun screen and after-sun lotions • Insect repellents • Tweezers

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• Cortisone cream • Antibiotic ointment • Medicines for fever and pain, e.g. paracetamol or ibuprofen for children • Non-prescription antihistamines such as cetirizine (sold under the name Zyrtec)

PA R E N T S

travel with your parents With more older travelers heading to far-ďŹ&#x201A;ung lands, turn your next holiday in Southeast Asia into an outing for the entire family. T+L gives you the low-down on strategies and destinations. BY NAOMI LINDT. ILLUSTR ATED BY WASINEE CHANTAKORN 42

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Caitlin Worsham, an American living in Hanoi, is a veteran travel agent. That is, a travel agent for her parents, who’ve made several trips to Southeast Asia in the past few years. At first, Worsham underestimated the effects of travel on her parents: healthiest travelers, the heat is a major up at a place that’s disappeared,” he “Short distances from point to point says. For this reason, Singapore is one became crucial given the prevalence of concern, and older people are more of his top picks. “The city offers susceptible to sunstroke. With that in bad backs and knees, motion mind, Dotty Foote, an NGO worker in fantastic, sanitary hawker stalls and sicknesses, and the like.” Now when some of the region’s best ethnic Indonesia, invited her parents to visit they come to visit, Worsham creates a Chinese restaurants.” at the coolest time of the year. She detailed itinerary, allowing for at least Ng also praises Singapore’s MRT then booked comforts like airthree to four days in each place, and system and abundant taxis. Mobility is conditioned private cars and hotels handles all the bookings and often an issue, and even if your parents with pools, and avoided activities transactions. “If problems arise, I are fit, you don’t want to run them handle them. I think my parents really during the hot midday, scheduling ragged. Worsham’s folks fell for naps or swims instead. appreciate this,” she says. While travel often brings you closer, Bangkok and its temples, massages, For years, much of Southeast Asia spending every minute together can be abundant cheap food and upscale seemed suited only for the young and dining. And, like Singapore and Hong maddening. Jessica Rivington, a adventurous, but that changed once Kong, Bangkok boasts a public staffer at Toronto-based tour operator out-of-the-way locales such as Luang transportation system that’s easy to G.A.P Adventures, and her 85-yearPrabang and Siem Reap began navigate. Worsham also suggests visits old grandfather made a point to developing. According to a 2007 to small, walkable spots like Hoi An, schedule time apart during an report by Euromonitor, a marketing Luang Prabang and Melaka, which organized tour of Vietnam, Thailand research group, more people over the combine local flavor with age of 65 are heading ‘If we had spent every second high-end services. off the beaten path. Bali isn’t pedestrianWhile the idea of together, it might have been too much,’ friendly, but the island’s “grandtravel”— she says. ‘Giving each other space experience with tourists holidays taken by grandparents with their helped the overall harmony of our trip.’ runs deep, which Foote’s parents appreciated. grandchildren—has and Cambodia. “If we had spent every “While it was exciting to get off the gained popularity in recent years, beaten path, they liked being in places second together, it might have been traveling with your parents as an where they could communicate with too much,” she says. “Giving each adult, especially in a culturally rich people around them in English and other space helped the overall region such as Southeast Asia, can be weren’t always relying on me or an harmony of our trip.” rewarding too. interpreter,” she says. No one wants to spend their That’s not to say it’s always a smooth Of course, the easiest way to vacation bathroom-bound, so ride: tempers can fray and minimize headaches is to have misunderstandings arise—particularly planning enjoyable, safe meals is also someone else do the work for you, an absolute must. Penang-born Aik if it’s the first time you’ve taken a trip which is what Rivington and her Wye Ng, who works for a public together for years. But there are ways grandfather opted for. Their tour relations firm in New York, says that to keep your holiday afloat. Worhsam group was international and food and hygiene are the biggest says preparation is key. Because travel multigenerational, giving the duo a challenge when traveling with his in this part of world can be wearing mother and father. “In choosing where chance to spend time with their peers. (and sometimes unpredictable), she’ll It also gave their journey a new to eat, I always look for cleanliness: pack a little bag equipped to fend off dimension. “Angkor’s history and minimal flies, properly washed unforeseen problems: ibuprofen, hand architecture were so interesting to utensils, well-kept kitchens, decent sanitizer, antibiotics, plasters, both of us,” Rivington recalls. “It bathrooms. Beforehand, I’ll research sunscreen, umbrella, a scarf. really enhanced the visit to see it restaurants and double-check that It’s also important to factor in the through two different perspectives.” ✚ they’re still operating so we don’t end tropical climate. For even the T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

C O M

|JU NE 2009

LU G GAG E

Pack a We know youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got baggage. And chances are itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s plain old black. Spruce up

From top left: Reversible canvas tote (with pink dotted interior), Kit + Lili (kitlili.com); striped nylon wheeled duffel with six zippered compartments , Dakine (dakine.com); bus-print wheeled vinyl suitcase and coated-canvas shopper with collapsible wheels, Orla Kiely (orlakiely.com); argyle jacquard carry-on with skateboard wheels, Hurley (hurley.com).

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Punch your lineup with these ﬂashy ﬁnds. You’ll never lose sight of your suitcases again. BY ALISON GORAN. PHOTOGR APHED BY K ANG KIM

From left: Skull-patterned kids’ roll-aboard , Small Paul (paulfrank.com); striped rolling carry-on, Dakine (dakine.com); block-patterned canvas weekender, Paul Smith (paulsmith.co.uk); hard-sided dotted suitcase on wheels, International Traveller (itluggage.com); brocadeinspired coated-canvas trolley Billabong (billabong.com). Handmade lamb’s-wool animals by Donna Wilson (donnawilson.com).

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

C O M

|JU NE 2009

H OT E L S

kid-friendly hotels and resorts in southeast asia From tot-sized amenities to kids-only pizza parties, more properties in the region are seeking to pamper their younger guests. T+L picks some of the best hotel for tots and teens. BY JENNIFER CHEN

Shangri-La Tanjung Aru, Kota Kinabalu.

Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa Located on the quieter, Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River, this popular family option has a kids’ club equipped with toys, games and trained staff, a children’s pool and four hectares of tropical gardens for your little ones to romp through. Meals are livened up with special kid menus embellished with puzzles (servers can also provide crayons for doodling). 257 Charoennakorn Rd.; 66-2/476-0022; marriott.com; doubles from Bt3,360.

Shangri-La Tanjung Aru, Kota Kinabalu Every Friday night, the resort throws a party for its young guests; kids can partake in a scavenger hunt, dancing and face painting—just to name a few fun treats—as well feast on pizza and ice cream. The seaside resort also has a huge, welldesigned kids’ club with countless activities, outdoor playground and wading pool. Best of all, guests can take the shuttle bus to sister resort, Rasa Ria, which runs a 25-hectare nature reserve that’s home to young rescued orangutans being trained to live in the wild again. 20 Jln. Aru, Tanjung Aru, Kota Kinabalu; 60-88/327888; shangri-la.com; doubles from RM660.

Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin The recently opened Hyatt Regency out in the New Territories boasts plenty of space—a rare commodity in this usually cramped city. Rooms start at 33 square meters, so three is never a crowd here. Parents and children can relax together during special family spa treatments at the hotel’s spa, while more active types can rent bicycles to explore the nearby Tolo Harbour bicycle trail. 18 Chak Cheung St., Sha Tin; 852/3723-1234; hyatt.com; doubles from HK$1,000. Lobby of the Hyatt Regency.

Swissôtel Merchant Court, Singapore Families favor this centrally located hotel for its large, freeform pool; there’s an adjoining separate wading pool that comes with a slide. The hotel also kits up rooms especially for children with colorful sheets, child-sized desks and chairs, kids’ movies, and step stools and non-slip mats in the bathroom. 20 Merchant Rd.; 65/6337-2288; swissotel. com; doubles from S$198. Great Value

resorts Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur The Mandarin channels its legendary service towards its younger guests at this luxurious, high-rise hotel adjacent to Petronas Towers. Parents can expect a welcome stuffed toy orangutan, milk and cookies at bedtime, and hampers filled with baby care products and a Teletubbies story book. There’s also a children’s pool, and, for more outdoor fun, KLCC Park is conveniently located right next door. Kuala Lumpur City Centre; 60-3/23808888; mandarinoriental.com; doubles from RM676.

games and teddy bears in the children’s room. Nusa Dua; 62-361/771-906; westin. com; doubles from US$140.

The Westin Nusa Dua, Bali Pizza making, dance and music lessons, and kite-flying are just some of the activities on offer at the kids’ club in this family-oriented resort. Outdoors, there’s a playground furnished with a slide, trampoline and climbing wall as well as a children’s pool with 12-meter slides. Story-telling and star-gazing sessions (fortified by cookies and chocolate milk) and poolside movie screenings can also be arranged for families. Larger families might want to book the Family Studio, which includes three single beds, PlayStation 2, board

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InterContinental Bali Teach your offspring to be socially responsible travelers at this sprawling property in the beach resort of Jimbaran. Language classes as well as green-minded activities such as recycled art lessons are offered at Planet Trekkers, the 552-square-meter kids’ club. Youngsters can also sign up for yoga and cooking classes. No. 45 Jln. Uluwatu; 62361/701-888; intercontinental.com; doubles from US$136. Ramada Karon Beach, Phuket Kids come first at this beachside property. Toys are provided for in all the deluxe rooms and suites. But if you really want to make your Pizza making at The Westin Nusa Dua.

C L O C W I S E F R O M R I G H T : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E W E S T I N N U S A D U A ; C O U R T E S Y O F H YAT T R E G E N C Y H O N G KO N G , S H A T I N ; C O U R T E SY O F S H A N G R I - L A TA N J U N G A R U , KO TA K I N A B A L U

city hotels

Nature at the InterContinental Bali.

child’s stay memorable, book one of the 14 theme rooms, tricked out with visual effects and props to mimic a spaceship, submarine or storybook castle. The resort’s themepark feel is evident elsewhere: a 1950’s American diner, a pool with a spiraling slide, flanked by—we kid you not—two dinosaurs. 568 Patak Rd.; 66-7/639-6666; ramadaphuket.com; doubles from Bt2,300.

boutique hotels The Villa Siem Reap Close to the Old Market, this affordable boutique hotel features comfortable bungalows and a family-sized traditional wooden house that’s divided into a threebedroom unit upstairs and a two-bedroom one downstairs. Both units come with cooking facilities, a garden and private drivers. The hotel also runs cultural and nature tours, which children under 12 can join for half the price. 153 Ta Phul Rd.; 85563/761-036 or 855/92-256-691; thevillasiemreap.com; bungalows from US$45.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L B A L I ; C O U R T E SY O F L A N N A M A N T R A

Great Value

Baan Laksasubha, Hua Hin The owner of this 16-villa, gracious seaside resort also runs a preschool in Bangkok, and on school holidays, teachers from the school often pitch in to lead the kids’ activities. Safety comes first here: balconies were designed to prevent falls and the jungle gym sits on a patch of soft sand. 53/7 Naresdamri Rd.; 663/251-4525–31;

baanlaksasubha.com; villas from Bt7,000. Great Value

Cassia Cottage Hotel and Inn, Phu Quoc Television is banned at this family-run operation to encourage children to frolic on the private beachfront or the gardens. The manager also organizes treasure hunts during school holidays. Most of the 18 rooms—housed in red-brick villas—are spacious enough for small families. Ba Keo Beach; 84-4/3928-4973; cassiacottage.com; doubles from ¤49. Lanna Mantra, Chiang Mai A simple but stylish hotel along the Ping River, Lanna Mantra offers a variety of rooms designed for families as well as interconnecting ones if you have older children. The infinity pool has a shallow section that’s separated by a wall. One huge draw is the lush riverside garden—a perfect spot for youngsters to explore. 46 Pa Ton Rd.; 6653/110-345–7; lannamantra. com; doubles from Bt3,000. ✚ Lanna Mantra in Chiang Mai.

Road To Mandalay Relaunch Offer Celebrate the relaunch of the Road To Mandalay in style with our very special offer. Book any cruise departing prior to April 2010 and receive a complimentary Yangon extension before or after your cruise, allowing you to enjoy 2 luxurious nights at the Governor’s Residence Hotel in Yangon. Special offer also includes sightseeing tours and transfers to and from Yangon airport. Cruises must be booked before June 30th 2009 to take advantage of this special offer. Terms and conditions apply.

Reservations/Information from Singapore +65 6395 0678 Toll free from Hong Kong & Thailand 00 800 8392 3500 Email: oereservations.singapore@orient-express.com www.orient-express.com La Résidence d’Angkor Siem Reap Cambodia

The Governor’s Residence Yangon Myanmar

La Residence Phou Vao Luang Prabang Laos

SOUVENIR

Mail Me! Did you know that a flip-flop can double as a postcard? Or that a coconut is a ready-to-go package? Turns out that you can send all manner of sturdy objects—no boxes or envelopes required—as long as they weigh less than 30 kilograms, meet safety guidelines , have proper postage, and pass muster with the local postmaster, who has ultimate say. To ﬁnd out what’s acceptable, we asked U.S. mail workers to recall their most memorable deliveries. Check their surprising list—then send the folks back home a thrill! ✚

Look What the Postman Brought

Boomerang A S I NGL E F L I P P E R

Plastic bottle of beach sand

Hockey stick

CAN OF NUTS DE F L AT E D B E AC H B A L L

ONE SK I

Chinese food container FOOTBALL

KANG KIM

Flyswatter

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Special Promotion 2

1. Villa Maria and Margarita; 2. Avanya Cove; 3. Hamilo Coast; 4.Terrazas de Punta Fuego; 5. The Eton Residences Greenbelt.

Live your

dreams in the

Philippines

f your idea of paradise is an unspoiled beach without a footprint in sight, or multi-colored reef and spectacular views, then the Philippines is the place to be. With a year-round tropical climate and more than 17,000 kilometers of coastline, it sounds like a dream—and it’s one dream that you can make real. Now, more and more people from all over the world are waking up to the Philippines. Its exotic beaches, scenic landscapes and friendly people make it an ideal place for a second home—the country’s convenient location, growing economy and thriving urban lifestyle also make it a highly attractive opportunity. Upcoming properties and resorts

Invest in booming real estate in one of the world’s most scenic countries

like the Anvaya Cove beach and vacation home community in northern Luzon and resort developments like Ayala Green eld Estates, close to a championship golf course, make the Philippines ripe for investment. Likewise, SM Investments’ Hamilo development is set to be a core center of tourism in Batanges, with tourists ocking to buy beachfront condominiums. The Philippines also has a business-friendly economy that allows 100% foreign investment in almost all sectors. Its economic growth has resisted the global slowdown to a great extent, and government corporations are being privatized, with deregulation of banking, shipping and

other industries helping to maintain stability and growth. This is why expats from all over the world are buying second homes or retirement homes in the country—so when you invest in a property in the Philippines, you’re following more than just your heart! The country boasts ultimate shopping experiences and great entertainment in a country that can also lay claim to having more than 7,000 islands, more than 2,000 sh species and other exotic wildlife. So why wait? With investment opportunities growing by the day, the time to invest and live in the Philippines is now. www.liveyourdreams.ph

(Insider) F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E SY O F T U G U H O T E L S , J O H N S . C A L L A H A N ; C O U R T E SY O F A N A N TA R A R E S O R T S A N D S PA S

Where to GoWhat to EatWhere to StayWhat to Buy

Paradise regained. Discover Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s next hotspot (page 60)

Catch the wave. Take an adventure off the coast of Sumatra (page 54)

Easy living. A look inside Phuketâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest private pool villas (page 56)

insider | ﬁve ways

Where the Breaks Are. Straddling INDONESIA

the equator off Sumatra’s west coast, the Mentawai Islands are a surfer’s paradise. Story and photographs by JOHN S. CALLAHAN

A surfer rides the waves.

1 ON THE WATER

Surfing is the magnet here, mainly around Karamjet Island and north Sipora Island, which boast a number of spots suitable for beginners and experts. Guides at Kandui Resort (1-714/369-8121; mentawaiislands.com/ kandui), WavePark Mentawai (62-751/812-837; wavepark.com) and Aloita Resort & Spa (62-759/320-354; www.aloitaresort.com) know where the waves are and speedboats whisk surfers to different spots depending on swell and wind conditions. Kandui has a large selection of boards available for rent (US$300 deposit; US$30 a day or US$200 for 10 or 11 days).

A beach on Koroniki Island.

5 WELLNESS

Surfing might be the main attraction of the Mentawai Islands, but Kandui Resort takes things a step further by offering yoga classes, beach volleyball and world-class lounging. Aloita is fitted out with three treatment rooms backing onto an enclosed waterfall and fishpond; a two-hour massage and body scrub treatment is available for US$40.

2 CULTURAL

Siberut

Sipora

There are cultural tours to the interior of Siberut Island, where tattooed tribal groups lead a traditional animist lifestyle of hunting and gathering. For an in-depth look at the cultural practices of the Siberut Mentawai, Native Planet (nativeplanet.org; 12-day trip US$4,934 per person), an NGO that works with indigenous peoples, leads travelers deep into the jungle in dugout boats for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

North Pagai South Pagai

A fisherman sets out to sea. Dinner, fresh from the waters.

3 ADVENTURE

4 FOOD

Both Kandui Resort and WavePark Mentawai have Western chefs. Supplies are brought in regularly from Padang on mainland Sumatra, and Indonesian dishes and fresh fish are on the menu every evening. Look out for mangrove crabs, cuttlefish, squid, marlin, and yellowfin or dogtooth tuna. Most of the local villagers are Christian, so pork is a common dish. 54

Showing off the day’s catch.

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Experienced local spear fishermen find trevally, barracuda and several varieties of tuna in the waters around Mentawai. When a guest spears a large fish, a barbecue is usually arranged with local Bintang beer for all. If you’re not a keen angler, sea kayaking between islands is also popular, and snorkeling over sheltered reefs offers a view of pristine coral and a plethora of colorful tropical fish. These activities are easily arranged through resorts.

Sometimes you just want to spend the whole day in bed. Live the moment.

Book a three night stay at One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives and receive a 4th night and return airport transfer by luxury yacht for free. Conditions apply. Travel must be completed by 15 October 2009. To book or for details of longer stay offers, contact your travel professional, visit oneandonlyresorts.com, or email Info@oneandonlyresorts.com.mv. For a brochure call +960 664 8800. One&Only Reethi Rah is part of a portfolio of distinctive and memorable resorts in The Bahamas, Dubai, Maldives, Mauritius and Mexico. Call +960 664 8800, email Info@oneandonlyresorts.com.mv or visit oneandonlyresorts.com.

| room report

THAILAND

Private Paradise Above: One of the pool villas at the Anantara Phuket.

JUN E

Anantara Phuket Resort & Spa. Looking for some peace and quiet? Consider this romantic getaway in Phuket’s tranquil northern corner. By JENNIFER CHEN THE OVERVIEW For its ﬁrst foray in Phuket, Anantara chose a stretch along Mai Khao Beach, a 15-minute drive from the airport and a healthy distance from the carnival-like atmosphere of Patong. Privacy and tranquility are this resort’s main concerns: red sandstone walls shield it from the road. Past the walls, the resort unfurls into a village-like pattern amid tropical gardens created by renowned landscape designer Bill Bensley. A rustic bridge over an artiﬁcial lagoon leads to the 83 pool villas; they’re grouped in clusters, but each is surrounded by high wooden walls that keep the outside world at bay. 888 Moo 3, Tambon Mai Khao; 66-76/336-100; phuket.anantara.com; villas from US$525.

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THE AREA There’s little in the surrounding environs other than fellow resorts (next door is the sprawling Marriott Beach Club), but that’s part of the attraction. The 9-kilometer-long Mai Khao Beach doesn’t have powdery white sand, but the lack of hawkers, masseurs and indeed, other tourists, more than makes up for it. THE DESIGN Lately, Thai resort architects seem to piling onto the minimalist train. Under the guidance of Bangkok-based architecture ﬁrm P49 Deesign, the Anantara Phuket happily ignores that fad, opting instead for a look that’s distinctly Thai, but »

C O U R T E SY O F A N A N TA R A P H U K E T R E S O R T & S PA

insider

WHERE INFLUENCE RESIDES

Born of distinctive legacy, the signature St. Regis Butler service is committed to delivering beyond expectations.

The St. Regis is your quintessential address in Singaporeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most prestigious location.

| room report without falling into kitsch. The open-air lobby mixes elements of Thai architecture—high, vaulted ceilings lined with open-work wood panels—with Chinese touches such as bird cages and Ming dynasty–style horse sculptures. Residences are in keeping with the Thai theme, with heavy wooden doors that shut with a sliding block and winged roofs. The restaurants—La Sala and Sea.Fire.Salt—veer into a different direction. The poolside at Sea.Fire.Salt is breezily casual and feels more Nantucket than Phuket, with pale wood, a two-tier deck and lights encased in blue baubles hanging from the ceiling inside, while La Sala features round booths cloaked with beaded curtains—a slightly incongruous disco effect.

Beach Retreat From above: The bathroom in a pool villa at the Anantara Phuket; bedrooms come with mosquito nets and fans so guests can enjoy the sea breezes; the resort is in Phuket’s quiet northern corner.

THE POOL VILLA Once inside one of the private villa compounds, which start at 180 square meters, it might be tempting never to leave. Furnished in colorful silks and plush chenille carpets, the bedroom has a high ceiling, sliding glass doors and mosquito net over the bed, allowing guests to opt for sea breezes rather than air-conditioning. Traditional textiles grace the walls, though some of the villas also have the work of John Underwood, a Phuket-based artist known for his abstract sculptures fashioned out of oxidized metals. Terrazzo floors in the bathroom keep it cool, while the walk-in closets, complete with a vanity table, provide ample room for your belongings. But the best bits are outside: a 33square-meter pool, outdoor bathtub, and shady sala with an immense daybed and ceiling fan—the perfect place to idle away an afternoon with a book. THE AMENITIES AND SERVICE Before arriving, guests are asked to fi ll out a form, listing their preferences in everything from pillows to snacks. Our mini-bar, located by the pool, was packed—by request—with Swiss chocolates and posh potato chips. There’s also a well-stocked wine cooler with New World wines as well as fine French ones. Caffeine addicts can easily get a fi x from the in-villa Nespresso machine, while those who really want to kick back will appreciate the tea lights and waterproof cushions laid out for that alfresco bath. The array of scented toiletries is a treat too: patchouli, vetiver and cardamom soap, ginger bath salts, bergamont–orange shower gel. This being a five-star hotel in Thailand, service is of course gracious, though sometimes easily befuddled: calls to order room service were complicated by the staff’s unfamiliarity with the menu. THE SPA Five treatment suites gathered around a lotus pond make up the 1,000-square-meter spa, located across from the lobby. Salmon pink–hued walls soothe the spirit, and some of the suites come with bathtubs. Treatments—which are expertly conducted by the therapists—draw on Aryuvedic and Thai traditions; Elemis products are used for some of the facials. For those pursuing inner peace as well as outer beauty, there’s a sala where private yoga and meditation classes are held. ✚

C O U R T E SY O F A N A N TA R A P H U K E T R E S O R T & S PA ( 3 )

insider

insider | where to go next

INDONESIA

Canggu, Bali. A rice-farming village on the island’s west

GETTING THERE Canggu is a 30-minute drive from Bali’s Ngurah Rai International Airport, which is well served by international and domestic airlines.

WHERE TO STAY Desa Seni No. 13 Jln. Kayu Putih; 62361/844-6392; desaseni. com; houses from US$150. Hotel Tugu Bali Jln. Pantai Batu Bolong; 62-361/731-701; tuguhotels.com; suites from US$265. Pantai Lima Jln Srikandi; 62-361/8444555; pantailima.com; villas from US$1,400. If you’re looking to book a villa, there are a number of rental agencies; DwiBali (62/817979-9944; dwibali.com) has offerings in Canggu and beyond.

HEN IT COMES TO SNIFFING OUT

the next big destination, conventional wisdom suggests you follow the backpackers. But in Bali, you would probably do better by following the expats, who are now flocking to Canggu, an arc of land stretching between what used to be a well-kept surfer secret and yawning expanses of enameled rice paddies. Bali’s next wave of serious development is poised to hit this west coast area, where volcanic sands are just a short drive from the sophisticated restaurants and savvy designer shops of Seminyak. But for now, Canggu offers old school Bali. Pack a picnic, jump on a bike and work up a sweat as you roll through glorious patchwork scenery dotted with villages and temples shrouded in wafting incense. Dedicated surfers lament its growing reputation but still gravitate to the three excellent breaks on Canggu’s Echo Beach, while on Sunday afternoons, their spectators feast on fresh seafood barbecues washed down with local Bintang beers at The Beach House (62361/738-471). When the sun starts dipping,

head over to Sticky Fingers’ (62-361/8090903) rooftop terrace for cocktails. The Hiltons and the Marriotts of this world haven’t arrived yet, but that doesn’t mean you’re relegated to backpacker digs. Desa Seni boasts an array of antique wooden houses gathered from around the Indonesian archipelago and reconstructed village-style. Their garden includes an organic vegetable patch that backs up their eat-local philosophy, and their breezy yoga space hosts daily classes. The lavishly decorated Hotel Tugu bills itself as a museum within a boutique hotel and literally overflows with Indonesian antiques and art. Or you can rent a plush private villa for guaranteed serenity. The three-year-old Canggu Club has cemented the area’s reputation as a haven for expats and also offers passes for tourists, giving them access to sports such as tennis and squash (Jln. Pantai Berawa; 62-361/8446385; cangguclub.com; US$30 per day). The splash pool is excellent for kids, and the popular Trattoria Italian restaurant chain now has an outlet open to the public here. ✚

Bali’s Next Wave From left: Hotel Tugu Bali’s restaurant; Pantai Lima has posh villas; Rumah Widja, an East Javanese house at Desa Seni.

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coast is poised for the big time. By SAMANTHA BROWN

Special Promotion

Berjaya Langkawi Beach & Spa Resort, Langkawi Island

mmersed in Malaysian heritage and wrapped in idyllic emerald waters and abundant rain forests, Berjaya Langkawi Beach & Spa Resort represents an invitation to a magical sojourn where traditional elegance blends seamlessly with urban sophistication. Located in Burau Bay, the resort boasts 502 rooms and suites, sprawling over 70 acres of land amid a lush 500-million-year-old rain forest. The resort features rooms and suites inspired by Malaysian architecture, equipped with amenities such as air-conditioning, IDD telephones, cable TV (selected channels), ceiling fans, showers with massage shower heads, sofa beds (selected room categories), hair dryers and a private balcony. Bathrooms with bathtub and separate shower facilities are also available. The exquisite 23 Premier Chalet on Water units are set to impress. Private and tranquil, these are the only individually built chalets on stilts over the sea (other hotels in Langkawi island are linked-chalets). Featuring local architectural design and boasting a room space of 56 square meters, each unit comes with an extra-large private balcony, which overlooks the waters of the Andaman Sea. Walk into shower haven with separate shower facilities and a bathtub that allows you to enjoy a view of the sea as you soak in bliss. Food lovers seeking an exceptional dining experience under the stars will love Pahn-Thai restaurant, which features authentic Thai cuisine in a unique and tranquil setting. Helmed by an innovative Thai chef, Pahn-Thai is built on stilts over water with a romantic sky backdrop, commanding an unsurpassed panoramic view of the Andaman Sea and the Matchincang mountain range. For meetings and conventions, the resort provides Wi-Fi facilities in public areas, the ballroom and eight meeting rooms. The ballroom is the biggest on the island with a capacity of 700 people. All meeting rooms are equipped with television monitor, video player, projectors, a PA system, whiteboard, dance floor and portable stage. Unlimited choices of fun recreation activities for the entire family are also available, as well as the Ayura spa with its signature healing body massages and facial treatments. For more information, call: +603 2141-0088, +603 2145-4107 or 1800 88 3236. E-mail: bhr@hr.berjaya. com.my or visit www.berjayahotels-resorts.com

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing more relaxing than a seaside getaway, especially when it costs US$150 a night or less. T+L hunts down 26 fabulous bargain beach stays, from Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s booming Phu Quoc Island to a remote corner of Malaysian Borneo

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Modern mixes with rustic at Thailand's la a natu resort.

W R I T T E N BY J E N N I F E R C H E N , R O BY N E C K H A R D T A N D N AO M I L I N D T, W I T H R E P O R T I N G BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N .

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Beach Life Clockwise from left: Boats off Thailand’s Ko Poda; a suite at Life Wellness Resort Quay Nhon; exotic flair at Villa Balquisse, in Bali; beachcombers in Boracay. Opposite: A poolside daybed at Villa Balquisse.

CA MBODI A

US$30

KEP Though it’s touted as Cambodia’s up-and-coming beach destination, this seaside town is still so small that none of its hotels or restaurants has a street address—instead, they’re known by name only. Mention the Veranda Natural Resort (85533/399-035; veranda-resort.com) to anyone who’s stayed there, and you’ll hear wistful recollections of its stellar sunsets and chilled-out atmosphere. Located on a lush hilltop that overlooks the Gulf of Thailand, the Veranda bills itself as a “high-end nature retreat.” Its 19 stylish rooms, which range from basic bungalows with fans to eco-chic rooms with all the amenities, were constructed from local, natural materials like wood, stone and clay. Much of the furnishings were designed and built on the grounds, lending the place the feel of a DIY art exhibit—bed frames are made of logs, lamps are fashioned from recycled wine bottles, and thick tree roots stand in as door handles. True to its name, every room has a private veranda, allowing for quiet afternoons spent

reading or watching those romantic sunsets. The hotel is a three-minute drive to Kep Beach, making the pool that’s due to open by year’s end a welcome addition. WHAT TO DO Spend the day lounging around on Rabbit Island, which has sandy beaches and sparklingly clear water (book at the hotel; US$13 per person).

US$35

SIHANOUKVILLE Filling the gap between guesthouse and luxury compound, Reef Resort (Road to Serendipity Beach; 855/12-315338; reefresort.com.kh) is Sihanoukville’s best boutique hotel option. A small, friendly place with an attentive staff, its 14 rooms are simply decorated with pastel walls, Khmer silk, and white linens on metal and rattan bed frames. For a few extra dollars, go for the superior class—they’re larger and overlook the newly built keyhole-shaped saltwater swimming pool; rooms on the upper floor have balconies. Family units, which were added last year, have more spacious bathrooms, outdoor seating areas and sleep up to four. Mornings at the hotel see guests enjoying apple-cinnamon pancakes, omelettes and fresh fruit salads on the outdoor patio; at » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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night, hearty Western, Khmer and Mexican fare is on the menu at The Mexican Restaurant. Cocktails are served poolside or at the bar, whose large drinks selection and pool table make it a popular spot for tourists and expats alike. Though the hotel isn’t directly by the sea, it’s just a five-minute walk to hopping Serendipity Beach, better known for its party atmosphere than the cleanliness of its shores—for a more pristine swim, take a moto to Sokha Beach, which is a few minutes’ drive away. WHAT TO DO More than a dozen outlying islands ringed with unspoiled white sand and rich coral reefs are just a boat ride away; EcoSea Dive (225 Eckareach St.; 855/12-654-104; ecoseadive.com) can arrange day trips for US$20 per person.

INDONESI A

US$110

BALI Imagine the country estate of some intrepid female explorer whose travels span Europe, Morocco, India and Indonesia, and you’d probably come up with something close to Villa Balquisse 68

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(18X Jln. Uluwatu, Jimbaran; 62-361/701-695; balquisse.com). Nestled on 18 hectares of landscaped gardens, this tiny hotel—which styles itself as a maison d’hotes—has just nine guest rooms, including a two-bedroom duplex well-suited for families. All the rooms are housed in a pair of gracious, Balinese-style villas that can be rented in their entirety. Moroccan-born owner Zohra Boukhari is an interior decorator by profession, with tastes that run towards exotic opulence, mixed with colorful native flourishes. Painted in hues ranging from purple to orange, the palatial, terracotta-floored rooms are filled with Javanese and Balinese antiques, saris from Jaipur, and wrought-iron lanterns and lamps from her homeland. Vintage touches such as oldfashioned phones and cameras and slipper bathtubs make you feel like you’re stepping into a different era. Both villas have their own pools edged with daybeds, though the beach is a mere 300-meter stroll away. Beachside dinners are much touted in Jimbaran, but for a more authentic Indonesian experience, order the rijsttafel at the rustically elegant Garam Asam restaurant. WHAT TO DO Sign up for the Balinese Boreh Royal Treatment (Rp520,000) at the Henna Spa,

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Sunny Days Clockwise from top left: Mango Bay’s beach, on Phu Quoc; The Sea House in Krabi; the treetop views at Veranda Natural Resort in Kep; The Sea House’s rooms sport a clean, modern look.

a three-hour indulgence that starts with a reflexology foot massage and ends with a floral bath. Culture vultures should visit the Uluwatu Temple—20 minutes by taxi—for the spectacular (and fiery) kecak dance (daily at 6 P.M.; tickets Rp50,000 per person).

US$103

GILI TRAWANGAN The Italianmanaged Luce d’Alma Resort & Spa (no address; 62-370/621-777; lucedalmaresort.com) brings a touch of European élan to this backpacker haven. The 16 suites are tastefully decorated with teak furniture, white linens and batik, and come furnished with decks— complete with rattan loungers—that lead straight into the pool. While the resort, located in the northern part of the island, isn’t by the water, it does have a private beach about 600 meters away; bicycles are available free of charge to shorten the journey. After working up an appetite with a swim, stop by the restaurant, which has the best Italian fare on the island—the chef hails from the Veneto region and makes his own pasta, all of which comes highly recommended. As a special treat, order »

A spa treatment room at Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon, in Vietnam.

US$150

SULAWESI Remote and relatively undeveloped, North Sulawesi has plenty of natural attractions: volcanoes, an incredible array of wildlife and Bunaken marine park, home to more than 2,500 varieties of fish and countless other aquatic species. Though it’s run by diving outfit Odyssea, non-divers will find plenty to delight in at Cocotino’s (Desa Kima Bajo Dusun III, Kecamatan Wori, Kapupaten Minahasa Utara; 62/812-430-8800; cocotinos.com), a recently opened resort perched on a volcanicsand beach off picturesque Wori Bay. The 16 wood-and-concrete villas might seem barrack-like, but the 22 guest rooms are airy and well-appointed, with a handful set right on the water’s edge for unparalleled views of the sea and Manado

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Tua, a dormant volcano across the bay. WHAT TO DO Most guests spend their time exploring the waters of Bunaken. But there’s also plenty to see in North Sulawesi’s interior. Cocotino’s can arrange tours to the verdant, volcanic hills of the Minahasa Highlands (eight-hour tours from Rp400,000 per person) as well as visits Tangkoko rain forest (10-hour tours from Rp550,000), where you can come face-to-face with hornbills, Celebes black macques and the goggle-eyed tarsiers, one of the world’s smallest primate.

US$105

SUMATRA Considering that Indonesia has more than 17,000 islands, it should come as no surprise that there are hundreds, if not thousands, of island paradises that you’ve never heard of. Exhibit A: Cubadak, a 15-square-kilometer volcanic island 57 kilometers south of Padang in West Sumatra. The only accommodations on the island, Cubadak Paradiso Village (no address; 62/812-660-3766; cubadak-paradisovillage.com; rates include fullboard) occupies 17 hectares of prime beachfront. Fashioned out of local materials such as rasak wood and rumbiah leaves, the 13 homey two-story bungalows are raised on stilts »

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the pasta with grilled king prawns doused in Salmoriglio sauce, a Sicilian specialty made with lemon, olive oil and oregano. WHAT TO DO The Gili islands are justifiably famous for their snorkeling and diving. Dream Divers (62370/603-4496 or 62-370/664-6122; dreamdivers.com) offers everything from snorkeling day trips to live-aboard excursions for certified divers.

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and have inviting verandas; some of the cottages are large enough to house families. Couples looking for romantic seclusion might want to book the spacious suite, which sits out in the water. There’s no pool, but there’s really no need for one given the powdery white-sand beach and calm, clear waters. There are terrestial natural wonders as well: a wander through the surrounding jungle rewards nature lovers with glimpses of hornbills, king fishers, macaques and monitor lizards. WHAT TO DO The entire island is ringed by coral reefs, and 20 meters from the resort’s beachfront is a 1.8-kilometer stretch of coral. For easy access, the resort has a bar and sundeck out on its pier—just grab your snorkeling mask and dive straight into the water. The in-house dive master can also lead excursions.

M A L AY S I A

US$109

LANGKAWI Steps away from Pantai Tengah, Langkawi’s main restaurant and nightlife strip, but in a world of its own is Villa Molek (Lot 72

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2863, Jln. Teluk Baru, Pantai Tengah; 60-4/955-2995; villamolek. com), a collection of 16 suites arranged in four double-story stucco buildings capped with pitched Malay roofs. Each 70 square-meter, teak-furnished suite features separate sleeping and living-cum-dining areas, a butler’s pantry, skylightilluminated tropical bath and balcony overlooking the lap pool, with rice paddies backed by jade green hills beyond. Though the adults-only resort doesn’t sit on the beach, the talcum sands and calm waters of cove-protected Tengah Beach are just a 300-meter stroll away. You can explore the nearby islands by hiring one of the boatmen who patrol the beach. Foodies are catered to with Italian and Indian restaurants, as well as an airy café where complimentary breakfast (everything from nasi lemak to cheese omelettes) and afternoon tea are served. If cocooning is your thing, Villa Molek can arrange for a massage or reflexology in your room; plans are afoot to open a spa on the premises. WHAT TO DO For a taste of the island’s wild side, book a tour with Junglewalla ( junglewalla.com; tours from RM40). Its experienced guides know the UNESCO Geopark’s mangroves, limestone karsts, pristine jungle and coral reefs inside-out. »

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Heaven on Earth Clockwise from left: Swimming off Boracay’s Bulabog beach is better than going to school; a touch of color at the Shantaa, on Ko Kood; la a natu’s bamboo bridge; kayaks await at Ao Phrao beach, Ko Kood.

US$138

LANGKAWI When Narelle McMurtrie found her sanctuary for homeless animals in need of additional funds she did what any resort owner might—she expanded. The result is Temple Tree (Pantai Cenang; 60-4/955-1688; templetree.com.my), eight historic villas relocated from around the Malaysian peninsula to a piece of land next to her other venture, Bon Ton Resort. The villas—meticulously restored and magnificently decked out in McMurtrie’s trademark mix of period pieces, contemporary furnishings and bright hues—can be rented in their entirety or as individual rooms. Each possesses a character all its own. In romantic Chinese House, for instance, rich woods are complemented by black and shades of crimson, while the bright white walls and terracotta floors of the rooms in Estate, a former longhouse for rubber estate workers transplanted from Ipoh, project a casual vibe. Some accommodations boast luxe touches like soaking tubs and movie rooms. The Straits Club House, a yellow wood-sided, single-story Eurasian affair relocated from Penang, houses reception, a restaurant and bar (guests can also drink and dine at Nam, Bon Ton’s acclaimed “west-meets-spice” eat74

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ery), library, and pool table. WHAT TO DO Sunbathers are catered to with two pools and the golden sands of Pantai Cenang are just a 10-minute drive away.

US$107

SABAH You’ll find no restaurants or bars, no swimming pool or spa at Sabah’s Mari Mari Dive Lodge (Mantanani Kecil Island, Kota Belud District; book through Traverse Tours, Kota Kinabalu; 60-88/260501 or 60/19-820-492; traversetours.com; rates include return boat transfer) but what the four-room facility lacks in frills it more than makes up for with pristine surroundings and utter solitude. Located off Kuala Abai, a fishing village 90 minutes from Kota Kinabalu, the lodge consists of a longhouse, dining pavilion and dive center built on stilts over the sea and connected by wooden walkways. At low tide, the casuarinabacked white-sand beach of Mantanani Kecil Island can be reached by foot; otherwise staff can ferry you by boat. Most visitors come for the diving, though snorkeling, sea kayaking and island-hopping are also on offer. There’s no electricity (which means no hot showers), but constant sea breezes keep things cool. Meals are simple preparations of what’s easily at

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Seaside Sights Clockwise from far left: Soft, white sands lure guests to Ko Kut Ao Phrao Beach Resort; a Proboscis monkey in Bako National Park, in Sarawak; the peaks near Away Resort, in Pranburi; a bathroom at Kalinaw Resort, Siargao; going inner-tubing at Boracay’s Bulabog beach; an eco-friendly guest room at Mango Bay, on Phu Quoc.

hand: fish caught right off your room. WHAT TO DO Take up birding. Recent sightings in the area of the critically endangered Christmas Island frigate bird, known for its remarkable courtship displays, have caused a stir among Southeast Asian birdwatchers.

US$61

SARAWAK Though Sarawak’s best known for its extensive riverine system, the state boasts beaches aplenty, and Damai Puri Resort (Teluk Penyuk Santubong, Kuching; 60-82/846-900; damaipuriresort.com) sits on one of the best: Damai Beach, a wide, deep swath of fine golden sand sloping to a calm lagoon sheltered on both sides by high green hills. Spread over two wings, the clean-lined rooms and suites mix dark plank floors with crisp white linens, all offset by views over the South China Sea or rainforest-clad slopes; the 57-square-meter suites boast living areas and deep bathtubs. If you can pry yourself away from your lounge chair (in addition to the beach, there’s two free-form swimming pools), a water sports center offers bay fishing, kayaking, jet and water-skiing and parasailing. For total relaxation, book a Village Inspiration package (140 minutes,

including a Javanese honey bath and aromatherapy body massage, will set you back RM320) at the well-equipped Spa Village. With five restaurants and bars serving everything from modern Malaysian to Italian finger foods, you won’t go hungry. WHAT TO DO Jungle trek, mountain climb and go Proboscis monkey–spotting at nearby Bako National Park. For a more up-close primate encounter visit Semenggok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre; aim for 8:30 A.M. or 3 P.M., when the apes are fed.

THE PHILIPPINES

US$94

BATANES Once the home and studio of the late painter Pacita Abad, the Fundacion Pacita Batanes Nature Lodge (Barangay Chanarian-Tukon Basco; 63-2/929-2602; fundacionpacita.ph) has a view that encompasses not one, but two seas: to the east is the Pacific Ocean, and to the west, the South China Sea. Positioned on a hill 3 kilometers from Basco, the capital of the Philippines’ northernmost province, the 5-hectare property draws » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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Fishermen-style cottages at la a natu.

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US$134

SIARGAO Created by two Parisian transplants, Kalinaw Resort (Catangnan, General Luna, Siargao Island; 63/921-320-0442; kalinawresort. com) is easily the most polished offering in this surfing destination located in the southeastern corner of the archipelago. Understated chic mingles with Filipino pastoral at this 1½-year-old retreat: the five beachfront villas are made from locally sourced materials such as lipa leaves and doyok doyok wood, while interiors—platform beds shrouded in white linens, polished wood and concrete floors—are tastefully minimalist. At 97 square meters, they offer plenty of space, though large groups might want to consider booking the family villa due to open this month. Given the idyllic setting, you won’t be spending much time indoors: enormous verandas front each of the cottages, and rattan hammocks are strategically placed throughout the grounds to encourage further lolling. At sundown, guests congregate at the bar for aperitifs, then tuck into delectable pizzas straight from the restaurant’s wood-burning stove. WHAT TO DO Though it’s becoming a getaway of choice for Manileños, surfing is still very much in the lifeblood of Siargao. Its famed Cloud »

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inspiration from the native Ivatan ethnic group, famed for their sturdy limestone houses and fondness for bright colors. Designed by Abad’s brother, Florencio, the 10 charmingly rustic rooms feature reclaimed wood and local stone; they’re kitted up with furniture fashioned out of driftwood found in the bay below as well as paintings by young Ivatan artists (Abad’s work graces the lounge). Guests, though, probably spend more time gazing at nature’s handiwork: each room has a deck, where you can drink in the gorgeous panorama of pastures, dormant volcanoes and, of course, the sea. WHAT TO DO Only opened for about six months, the lodge plans to add an infinity pool and introduce tours and voluntourism activities by 2010. For now, there’s a pebble beach just below the resort that’s reachable by a 300-step pathway, but it’s well worth asking the front desk to arrange a local guide to explore the surrounding white-sand—and virtually deserted—beaches and picturesque villages. The neighboring island of Sabtang—a 35-minute ferry ride away—has white-sand beaches and outstanding examples of Ivatan architecture, while hikers and rock climbers should investigate Itbayat, a 3½–hour boat ride from Basco.

A walkway heading out to the famed Cloud 9 break, in Siargao.

9 break—a long hollow, right-hand reef break—attracts professionals and neophytes alike. Sign up for private surfing lessons at Kalinaw (P500 an hour) before tackling Cloud 9, located just 500 meters from the resort. And if surfing doesn’t appeal, explore the tiny islands nearby, where untouched beaches and aquamarine waters beckon ( four-hour tour, P1,600 per person, including a packed picnic).

THAILAND

US$86

KO KOOD It’s easy to feel jaded about Thai beach destinations—rumored lost paradises are all too often already overrun with 7-Elevens, backpackers and banana boats by the time you get there. But a stay at Ko Kut Ao Phrao Beach Resort (45/37 Tesaban 5 Rd.; 66-39/525-211–2 or 66/814-297-145; kokut.com) could restore one’s faith in Thailand’s ability to deliver soft sands, sparkling sea and tranquility. This family-run resort doesn’t put on any airs; the 50, spotlessly clean thatched-roof huts are modestly furnished. Perhaps the owners wisely saw there was little sense in competing with the stunning surroundings: a nearly kilometer-long virgin beach and 6 hectares of carefully tended gardens and coconut groves. As the sun goes down, order a drink at the open-air beachside bar and toast the end of another day of utter relaxation. Then head to the restaurant, emulate the mostly Thai crowd and dig into local specialties such as hor mok pla (steamed fish mousse in banana leaves) and moo cha muang (pork with a local herb). WHAT TO DO It’s tempting to pass entire days, if not weeks, on the near-perfect beach. But if you want to explore, the resort can arrange snorkeling trips to the Rang islands, about 40 minutes away by boat, or a hike to Klong Chao waterfall.

OPPOSITE: © DONSIMON / DREAMSTIME.COM

US$100

KO SAMET Urbanites from Bangkok looking for a quick weekend break still flock to Samet—just 2½ hours from the capital—for its lovely shores and beautiful, calm waters. Despite its enduring popularity, accommodations there often fall into the cheap-and-cheerful or overpriced categories. Stepping into the flashpacker void, the one-year-old Le Blanc Samed Resort (Moo 4, Tambon Phe; 66-38/644-077; leblancsamed. com) offers 52 simple but comfortable rooms in a collection of thatched-roof cottages, each of which has its own deck. Book a beachside cottage and wander down to the resort’s small private stretch to catch the sunrise. Then take up the resort’s offer of a free one-hour massage. Younger guests are catered to with toys and a small playground, while anglers can borrow fishing rods and try their luck (red snapper and mullet are commonly caught off these shores). WHAT TO DO There’s a small reef right off the private beach that snorkelers can explore.

US$86

KRABI In a couple of years, Had Yao, a 9-kilometer-long beach 40 minutes’ south of Ao Nang, will probably be chock-a-block with resorts, bars, massage parlors and hawkers. But for now, there’s just a handful of boutique operations, including The Sea House (120 Moo 4, Tambon Thaliangchan, Amphoe Nuaklong; 66/864713-693 or 66-2/250-4527; hadyaocollection.com), a recently opened property with only nine villas. They boast plenty of room, starting at 75 square meters and running all the way up to 160 square meters, and sport a Scandinavian-inspired look: hardwood floors, clean lines and minimal décor. Bamboo awnings over the alfresco bathtubs and thatched roofs, though, remind you of where you are. Most guests choose to laze by the pool, but you can jump in a golf cart and head over to sister property Nantra de Deluxe for a massage (from Bt600). Hankering for some nightlife? A 30-minute long-tail boat ride will land you in more bustling Railay Beach. WHAT TO DO Ask the staff to arrange a snorkeling trip to nearby Ko Kai, Ko Poda and Ko Tub (Bt4,500 for two), three tiny islands known for their crystalline waters. The islands are popular with local group tours, but most move from island to island quickly, so you’ll find a bit of privacy if you wait. For a cultural excursion, take a boat to Ko Jum (Bt3,000 for two), where the island’s Muslim residents lead lives strikingly untouched by modern hassles.

US$86

PHANG NGA Overdevelopment has yet to ruin the shores of Phang Nga, the province just north of Phuket, where you’ll find unspoiled beaches, magnificent national parks and an intimate, family-managed spots such as Haadson Resort (30/1 Moo 7, Bang Muang, Takuapa; 66-76/593-510; haadsonresort.com). Occupying an 8-hectare parcel of land with coconut groves and a natural lagoon, the property has 39 guest rooms and villas decorated in Thai contemporary style: clean lines and dark woods with splashes of crimson, blue and bronze. Individual villas have cozy terraces, complete with leather daybeds, and thoughtful touches such as sliding consoles over the beds so you can breakfast without making a mess. Guests have access to a 23-meter-long pool, a library and massage salas, but the main draw here is Bangsak beach—a 3-kilometer stretch lined with casuarina trees that’s blessedly free of tourists. WHAT TO DO The Similan Islands have some of the best diving and snorkeling in this part of Thailand; the resort offers day trips for Bt3,000 per person. Further afield, Khao Sok National Park is one of the region’s hidden gems: 73,900 hectares of rain forests, limestone cliffs, streams and waterfalls (book at the resort; Bt2,600 per person).

US$125

PRACHUAP KIRI KAN If you want to avoid the traffic jams of Hua Hin, just head further south for an hour or so, and you’ll come » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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across sweeping beaches and sleepy fishing villages where motorbikes and bicycles rule the road. The resorts down here tend to match the area’s relaxed vibe—no 500-room behemoths with golf courses and karaoke lounges—and la a natu bed & bakery (234 Moo 2, Samroiyod; 66/817-318688 or 66/817-318-689; laanatu.com) exemplifies this lo-fi approach. Enviably situated on a secluded beach (hills on either end stand guard), the resort has seven bungalows. The beachside accommodation mimic a fisherman’s dwelling (albeit with outdoor bathtubs and colorful furnishings), while four stilted bungalows nestled in the rice field in the back are inspired by traditional Lao houses, with thatched roofs and paa khao ma textiles. Also by the beach are three contemporary duplex suites that come with Jacuzzis and commanding views of the Gulf of Thailand; one suite also has a small plunge pool. It’s easy to idle away afternoons getting massages by the petite rooftop pool or collecting shells on the beach. If your ambitions aim higher, the resort does have kite-surfing equipment—the area has become a popular spot for avid kite-surfers. When hunger sets in, order up some fresh fish cooked with a chili kick, or if it’s just a 80

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snack you’re after, check out the homemade baked goods, including a lush young coconut mousse cake. WHAT TO DO Explore the nearby mangroves, or hire a car and visit Khao Sam Roi Yod National Park about 25 kilometers away, home to more than 300 species of birds, including the rare Purple Heron and White-Bellied Sea Eagle (car hire Bt800; park entrance fee Bt400). If you’re lucky, you might spot the even rarer Irrawaddy dolphin.

V I ETNA M

US$70

MUI NE Over the last several years, the 20-kilometer coastline of this once-sleepy fishing village has transformed into an exclusive retreat that’s just four hours by car from Ho Chi Minh City. Sailing Club (24 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St.; 84-62/384 7440; sailingclubvietnam.com) was one of the first resorts on the scene to offer comfort, style and originality at reasonable prices, and four years later, it’s still going strong. With its own stretch of golden sand, panoramic beachfront bar and US$22 massages,

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T, O P P O S I T E : C O U R T E S Y O F L A A N AT U B E D & B A K E R Y ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E S E A H O U S E ; A DA M PA P E ; CO U RT E SY O F V I L L A BA LQ U I S S E ; CO U RT E SY O F K A L I N AW R E S O RT

Paradise for All Clockwise from far left: A funky suite at la a natu; a guest room at The Sea House; Railay beach, in Krabi, is famed for its cliffs; Villa Balquisse has a romantic ambience; the beachfront villas at Kalinaw Resort, Siargao.

this is the kind of place that’s extraordinarily hard to leave. The 29 guest rooms, which are spread among mustard yellow, thatched-roof buildings and interconnected by wooden walkways through lush tropical foliage, feature bamboo beds, silk draperies and potted plants; higher-category rooms includes private terraces and outdoor bathtubs. Given the talents of local fishermen, it’s no surprise that the South African chef at Sailing Club’s Sandals Restaurant focuses on seafood—her Vietnamese-fusion cuisine, combined with the open-air, pool-side seating, make it a spot worth return visits. Should you tire of lazing around all day, Mui Ne is also a popular spot for water sports, especially kite surfing. WHAT TO DO Hire a motorbike for the day and cruise out to the nearby sand dunes—one set is honey-hued, the other cinnamon red. Both are spectacular.

$99

QUY NHON Never heard of Quy Nhon? Well, that’s just how the Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon (Bai Dai Beach; 84-56/384-0132; life-resorts.com) prefers it. This luxurious hideaway is in a small town—removed enough to feel away from it all but still accessible by plane

(Vietnam Airlines offers service from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City). Built on a 13-hectare plot where the mountains seem to melt into the sea, the 63-room spa resort incorporates elements of central Vietnam’s once-powerful Cham culture into its architecture and design, from the peaked, exposed beam roof of the grand lobby to the sandstone sculptures standing throughout the property. The spacious rooms are decorated in neutral hues accented with reds and browns, and have pleasing touches like fresh flowers, canopied beds and exposed brick, light-filled bathrooms (some even have sunken tubs that overlook the sea). Each room also has a balcony with unobstructed water views. As its name suggests, the resort invests serious effort into your well-being: in the mornings, guests can practice yoga or tai chi at the water’s edge, and the bar and restaurant menus focus on fresh, simply prepared food. Supremely restorative, of course, is a visit to the hilltop spa, where Life Resort’s signature four-handed massages are given in airy bungalows. WHAT TO DO Pay homage to the Cham people’s artisanship with a visit to the 1,000-year-old brick temples that dot the surrounding countryside. » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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la a natu serves up fresh-baked goodies.

US$42

PHU QUOC Given the rapid pace of development in recent years on this island, it’s heartening to come across a place like Mango Bay (Ong Lang Beach; 84/903-382-207; mangobayphuquoc. com). The eco-friendly resort stands on a 20-hectare spread of indigenous forest, seemingly in defiance of the tourism boom that’s taking place further south on the island’s shores. Natural and locally sourced products were used to construct the property’s buildings, from the rammed earth bungalows—Vietnam’s first—to the leaf-thatched roofs. There are 31 rooms in different configurations, with some options, like the Reef House and Fisherman’s Bungalow (modeled on local homes), wellsuited for larger groups or families. En-suite bathrooms are open-air, and the water is solar-heated. As expected with its ethos, there’s no air conditioning here, but with ceiling fans, breezes off the sea, and cotton mosquito nets draped over the four-poster wooden beds, most guests get along just fine. Given its seclusion, it’s a good thing the restaurant and bar come highly recommended. Couches overlooking the 700-meter stretch of beach are the perfect spot for sunsets and sundowners, while dishes like freshly caught steamed crab and grilled fish can be served with the water lapping at your feet. There’s also a spa offering outdoor massages. WHAT TO DO Rent a motorbike for a few dollars and explore the 567-square-kilometer island’s dirt tracks, which weave among pepper plantations, fish sauce farms and secluded beaches. ✚

ONES TO WATCH Six more affordable resorts around the region that are also on our radar US$100 Shantaa Resort A funky boutique hotel on Thailand’s Ko Kood. 25/2 Moo 1, Ta Phao Beach, Ko Kood; 66/818-179-648; shantaakohkood.com.

O P P O S I T E : C O U R T E SY O F L A A N AT U B E D & B A K E R Y

US$100 The Breezes Resort Resort & Spa This recently refurbished hotel offers comfortable rooms in Bali’s posh Seminyak. No. 66 Jln. Abimanyu, Seminyak; 62-361/730-573; breezesbali.com. US$80 Amaryllis Resort All 51 rooms of this Phan Thiet resort come with private terraces. Km 8, Nguyen Dinh Chieu St.; 84-62/371-9099; amaryllisresort.com. US$83 Daluyon Beach and Mountain Resort A collection of pleasant two-story cottages on a quiet stretch of sand on Palawan. Sabang Beach, Puerto Princesa, Palawan; 63-48/723-0889; daluyonresort.com

US$140 The Tides Boracay A stylish hotel with a great terrace bar, smack in the middle of Boracay’s most happening spot. D’Mall, Station 2, Boracay; 63-36/2884517; tides-boracay.com US$140 Away Pranburi A new retreat just south of Hua Hin with ﬁve Thai-style villas, furnished with modern luxuries. 83 Moo 1, Samroiyod, Prachuap Khiri Khan; 66-2/696-8239; awaypranburi.com.

Special Promotion

S M A R T AU TO M O D E The Digital IXUS 110 IS camera is easier to use than any other model. All you need to do is just point, and the camera will automatically and intelligently detect one of 18 scenes, so that shooting difficult-to-capture photos is effortless. In this mode, the 2.8-inch Wide LCD display shows a simple icon showing which scene was detected.

s much as I didn’t want to, I managed to drag myself out of bed at sunrise in Luang Prabang to photograph the timeless scene of monks on their rounds collecting alms. I had a

secret weapon, my new Digital IXUS 110 IS from Canon. Early morning was overcast but I had no worries: the camera’s iContrast would automatically fix and perfect the images I shot. Lines of monks in their saffron robes were easy to shoot with the Canon. I chose the camera over others because its powerful imaging processor—DIGIC 4— offers fine detail and reproduces colors naturally, all the while tracking moving objects with ease. Whether I zoomed in on a group or the face of one person, my shots were in perfect focus, thanks to Canon’s Smart Auto Shooting Mode that intuitively detects scenes and optimizes

settings taking into account brightness and contrast, distance and overall ambience as they arise. Portrait mode, one of 18 special scene modes, worked perfectly when photographing the monks. By the time I got back to my hotel, I had a great series of photos of Luang Prabang, all before breakfast. Still, I wanted to test my newfound “skills” more, and had the perfect chance to do just that

aquarium. In fact, with the WPDC32 underwater case, this is perfectly possible. With the IXUS 110 IS, I was able to join in the razor-sharp pictures with the face-detect self-timer, which not only automatically sets the ideal exposure, it shoots as soon as it detects me in shot, facing the camera. None of us blinked: the camera warns me if anyone’s eyes are closed! Whatever I shot—fastpaced water sports, friends on

a few weeks later under the bright sun in Phuket. The camera’s ability to compensate for harsh lighting conditions came in handy. Photos of my family and friends turned out perfectly lit at the beach, where faces would have otherwise turned out silhouetted against the tropical sun at high noon if not for special scene mode. My shots at sea were so clear and colorful they looked like they were taken in an

the beach or even my seafood dinner at night—the IXUS 110 IS made me look like a pro. My family and friends asked for copies of the photos—all of them. I could show them simply by tilting the camera left or right to change the photo on the 2.8” Wide LCD display. They were beginning to think I had really honed my photographic skills, but I knew the Canon was the real star of both my trips.

i - CO N T R A S T Canon’s DIGIC 4 image processing technology also drives the user-friendly i-Contrast feature, which brightens underexposed subjects in conditions with harsh backlighting, shadows or low light, meaning all your shots are dazzlingly detailed during recording or playback.

DIGITAL IXUS 110 IS Canon Singapore Pte Ltd (South & Southeast Asia Regional Headquarters) Tel: 65-6799 8888 Fax: 65-6221-2939 www.canon-asia.com

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A S S O C I AT E FA S H I O N E D I T O R : C AT H E R I N E C R AT E . H A I R : A N T O I N E I F E R G A N / S E E M A N A G E M E N T F O R K E R A S TA S E . M A K E- U P : J E N N A A N T O N / S E E M A N A G E M E N T. S E T S T Y L I S T : E T H A N T O B M A N . M O D E L S : C E R E L I N A / W I L H E L M I N A ; S T E V E N B U R T O N / F O R D

StylishTraveler Her swimsuit, Boss Black (hugoboss.com); rafﬁa sun hat, Hat Attack (hatattack.com); goldplated–wire bracelets with quartz and rhodonite, Susan Hanover Designs (susanhanoverdesigns. com); multi-stripe cotton towel, Target (target. com). His linen shirt, by Tommy Bahama Relax (tommybahama.com); board shorts, Merona (target.com); sunglasses, Louis Vuitton (louis vuitton.com); cotton towel, Petit Bateau (petit-bateau.com).

Make a Splash Whether you’re headed to Bali or Boracay, hit the beach with these bright, graphic pieces. Photographed by ARTHUR BELEBEAU. Styled by MIMI LOMBARDO

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stylish traveler

| fashion

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MODELS, FROM LEFT: CERELINA/ WILHELMINA; ISADORA/WILHELMINA

PHOTO CREDIT TK

Beach Party Left: Swimsuit, Tibi (tibi.com); silk scarf and sunglasses, Emilio Pucci (emiliopucci.com); earrings and ring, Curations (hsn.com); wood bangles, Kenneth Jay Lane; straw fedora, Target. Right: Lycra swimsuit and mako-cotton cardigan, by Tory Burch (toryburch.com); patent-leather sandals, K Jacques St. Tropez (bergdorfgoodman.com); nylon bag, Calvin Klein (zappos.com); sunglasses, Curations; gold hoop earrings with turquoise, Kenneth Jay Lane (net-a-porter.com); enamel bangles, Alicia Shulman (aliciashulman.com); silver, wood and enamel ring, Lia Sophia (liasophia.com).

stylish traveler

| beauty

PLEASURE PALACES From New York and Paris to Sardinia and Agra, T+L rounds up the top spa debuts

Bliss Out Clockwise from top left: The entryway to the Dior Institute, in Paris; the Kaya Kalp spa, in Agra, India; Dior’s L’Or de Vie serum; a locker room at Manhattan’s Sense Spa; Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo Italian Resort Radiant face cream; the Orchidée Impériale treatment from Guerlain; a treatment room at the Guerlain Spa, in New York City; Sisley’s Crème Réparatrice moisturizer.

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• Caudalíe Vinothérapie Spa Wine and spa pair perfectly at French beauty house Caudalíe’s only U.S. outpost—the relaxation lounge doubles as a tasting room manned by an expert sommelier. The Plaza; 1-212/265-3182; theplaza.com; from US$100. • Guerlain Spa Superluxe services, including several that use Guerlain’s Orchidée Impériale line, are performed in cavernous rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows at this hideaway 19 stories above Manhattan. Waldorf-Astoria; 1-212/872-7200; waldorfastoria. com; from US$225. • The Peninsula Spa by Espa With Asian-inspired interiors by Alexandra Champalimaud and Espa’s proven spa formula, guests should have no problem finding Zen at this just-opened space. The Peninsula New York; 1-212/903-3910; peninsula.com; from US$195. • Sense, A Rosewood Spa at the Carlyle Crystal chandeliers and lacquered gray walls set the tone at this urbane spa, with treatments incorporating top-notch beauty lines including Sisley. The Carlyle; 1-212/660-7560; thecarlyle.com; from US$195. PARIS • Dior Institute An Eighth Arrondissement retreat with a whiteon-white motif, arched hallways, and sleek leather chaises—plus therapies showcasing Dior’s products. Hôtel Plaza Athénée; 33-1/5367-65-35; plaza-athenee-paris.com; from US$216. SARDINIA, ITALY • Blu Mediterraneo Spa The first spa from Acqua di Parma is at the seaside Yacht Club Costa Smeralda. Our favorite indulgence: outdoor treatment cabanas overlooking the Mediterranean. Porto Cervo; 39-0789/973-425; yccs.it; from US$171. AGRA, INDIA • Kaya Kalp—The Royal Spa A 9,200-square-meter Mughal fantasy with mother-of-pearl–inlaid floors, fruit-tree–filled gardens, and traditional ayurvedic offerings. ITC Mughal Agra; 91-562/2331701; itcwelcomegroup.in; from US$33.—E L I Z A B E T H W O O D S O N

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T : M A T T H I E U S A LVA I N G F O R C H R I S T I A N D I O R P A R F U M S ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E K AYA K A L P R O YA L S P A ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E C A R LY L E , A R O S E W O O D R E S O R T ; LY N H U G H E S . S T I L L L I F E S : D A V I E S + S T A R R ( 4 )

NEW YORK CITY

stylish traveler

| spotlight

Turquoise-and窶田rystal necklace, Bea Valdes.

PHILIPPINES

PHILIPPINE PEARLS

Two Manila-based accessories designers are attracting attention far beyond their native shores. By JENNIFER CHEN. Photographed by NAT PRAKOBSANTISUK

Necklace with resin, wooden beads and crystals, with an adjustable gold chain, Bea Valdes.

Assorted one-off bespoke rings of 24-karat gold-plated sterling silver and high-grade enamel. Set with individual gems such as faceted carnelian, black obsidian, sand-blasted aventurine, onyx, Baltic amber, baroque pearl, Mabe pearl, fancy cut smoky quartz and Brazilian citrine, Wynn Wynn Ong.

| spotlight

Rope necklace with jasper, agate, tiger’s eye and petriﬁed wood, Bea Valdes.

BEA VALDES

BEAVALDES

Gems are part of the DNA of Bea Valdes, a 35-year-old accessories designer whose family has been involved in ﬁne jewelry for generations.

At the tender age of ﬁve, she began accompanying her mother to the family jewelry store, where she would spend hours carefully examining the baubles for sale. Today, Valdes’s gorgeously embellished evening bags and clutches—painstakingly beaded by hand and encrusted with semi-precious gems—are snapped up by international fashionistas. ■ INSPIRATION Valdes ﬁrst worked as an interior designer—a background

WYNN WYNN ONG

enamel and gemstones are worked into gold, silver, copper and silken coils. ■ WHERE TO FIND AC+632 2nd ﬂoor, Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati, Manila; 63-2/758-2564; Asia Society 725 Park Ave., New York City; 1-212-327-9217; or you can contact Nagá Jewelry at 632/752-2763. ✚

NAGÁ JEWELRY

Even at an early age, Wynn Wynn Ong displayed a ﬂair for jewelry making. As a 15-year-old convent schoolgirl, she asked her mother’s jeweler to fashion a necklace out of a boar’s tusk and carnelian. “Ever since I was a kid, I used to take heirlooms, deconstruct them, and wear them in a different way,” says the Burma-born designer. For years, Ong crafted extravagant, one-off statement pieces for family and friends, but at a friend’s encouragement, she brought some handmade cuffs and rings to a swish boutique in Manila. In three days, they were sold out and a second career as a jewelry designer was born. ■ INSPIRATION Though her cuffs, necklaces, earrings and rings are bold and not for the retiring, Ong readily taps into nature when thinking of ideas for her designs. “Ninety-nine percent of my inspiration is from nature. It’s 94

that she still draws on. “I always ﬁnd inspiration from interior design and decorative objects—antique textiles, patterns, exotic talismans—I am intrigued by things that have their own histories,” she says. ■ CURRENT COLLECTION Though she’s best known for her highly coveted bags, Valdes has branched out into elaborate, almost baroque necklaces and fanciful gilets. Topaz, lapis lazuli, turquoise, black pearls and labradorite are just some of the beautiful stones she uses alongside satin, gold and petriﬁed wood. ■ WHERE TO FIND Adora Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makati, Manila; 63-2/6874809; adora.ph; Harvey Nichols The Landmark, Pedder St. and Des Voeux Rd., Central, Hong Kong; 852/3695-3388; harveynichols.com; and couturelab.com.

Leather-lined bag made from a pearlized nautilus shell with sterling silver, white jade and Baltic amber, Wynn Wynn Ong.

what inspires all designers, jewelers and artists.” ■ CURRENT COLLECTION Ong’s pieces are often sculpture-like and her current collection reﬂects her ongoing interest in architecture. High-grade

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F R O M T O P : R AY M U N D I S A A C ; F R A N K H O E F S M I T

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Special Promotion

Enjoy discounts of 5-70% and other privileges, all until August 31

epartment stores, hotels, restaurants and tourist attractions nationwide are joining this year’s Amazing Thailand Grand Sale—alongside throngs of tourists and locals celebrating the end of this year’s sales season. Thailand is renowned for its serviceoriented culture, and it’s also number one for “value for money” according to the FutureBrand’s Country Brand Index of 2008. So let us enchant you as you enjoy shopping at Thailand’s

stores and malls across the country. Sports fans can also enjoy great discounts on international-standard golf courses, while healthy-minded shoppers can take a break at discounted spas. There are even discounts for medical check-ups at world-class hospitals! Visitors to Bangkok will appreciate the comfort and convenience of the city’s skytrain and subway, with many stores connected directly to stations, and with both services offering value

cards. Of course, with Thailand’s unique charm, most visitors want to experience life outside Bangkok, and this year, the Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2009 has been extended to destinations as varied as Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Hua Hin, Cha-am, Pattaya, Nakhon Ratchasima, Udon Thani, Phuket, Krabi, Hat Yai and Ko Samui. For more information visit:

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The Amazing Thailand Grand Sale 2009. How can you afford to miss it? WITH EVERY THB500 SPENT WITH YOUR VISA CARD, GET ONE LUCKY DRAW COUPON TO WIN PRIZES FROM VISA AND ENJOY EVEN MORE SPECIAL BENEFITS AND DISCOUNTS.

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T+L Journal PORTFOLIO 105

A sweep of scenic Yalong bay. Inset: Local crab for dinner.

ADVENTURE 114

F R O M R I G H T : © Z H A N T I A N / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; © L O L A P I D L U S K AYA / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M

CHINA

Tropical

China Hainan Island is a getaway geared to a captive audience on the mainland. The only question then, asks JEREMY TREDINNICK, is: would you choose it for your vacation?

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A

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rouse me from my soporific sun bed. As the sun beats down, two lithe young couples pop out of the water, their dripping bodies clad in tiny bikinis and briefs. I decide to take a dip myself. Swimming lazily across the infinity pool I look out to an expanse of golden sand to an azure sea, where Jet skis buzz and windsurfers whip across the water. It’s a typical tropical resort scene in Southeast Asia. But I’m not in Thailand or Bali, although the level of luxury is just as high. Surprisingly, I’m in China at the country’s only genuinely tropical destination—more specifically at the Hilton Sanya Resort & Spa in Yalong Bay on the south coast of Hainan Island, near the border with Vietnam. This rugged island is thick with jungle. In centuries past it was no more than a backwater reviled by government officials, who were usually sent there as punishment for some transgression or other. Now Hainan is popular among Chinese eager to escape the mayhem of Beijing or Shanghai. Nowhere else in the Middle Kingdom will you find sun-drenched beaches backed by palm trees and paddy fields dotted with water buffaloes. If the brochures are to be believed, this has become the Chinese Hawaii. But is Hainan really like Hawaii? Well, no. At least, not yet. Landing at Sanya’s airport I am confronted with tacky giant pineapples sitting atop the arrivals building. Yet, the highways into and around the city are broad, clean and wellmaintained. Still, construction sites are a dead giveaway that this is modern China.

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Thirty minutes’ drive east of the city is Yalong Bay, a golden sweep of sand that plays host to a phone-book listing of luxury resorts, including Hilton, Marriott, Ritz-Carlton and Sheraton. In terms of grandeur, 7-kilometer-long Yalong Bay is the equal of such iconic resort locales as Phuket’s Karon and Kata beaches or Bali’s Legian and Sanur, while its hotels match and sometimes exceed expectations honed by these better-known getaways. Midmorning, I take a barefoot stroll to visit the other resorts, stopping for lunch and some people-watching as I go. Sanya attracts a curious mélange of holidaymakers. Large families of middle-class Chinese let their hair down; Russian, Kazakh and Eastern European sun-seekers escape their winters; and urbanites from Hong Kong, Taipei, Tokyo and Seoul are on weekend hedonistic binges. Local Hainan women selling exotic seashells and other souvenirs wander among them all. I’m stunned when a burly Chinese matron, hunkered under a broad-rimmed traditional woven hat, shouts “zdrastvuyte” at me. It seems that Russian, not English, is the lingua franca that beach-sellers use when addressing Caucasian holidaymakers in Hainan. I then turn and see two Chinese monks ambling down the waterfront, thumbing prayer beads as they stare unembarrassed at all the barely covered breasts and bikini bottoms on show. I smile inwardly—unusual sights and surprises are a pleasant addition to the holiday mix. Just 10 minutes from Sanya, Dadonghai Bay boasts another good strip of sand. Its hotels aren’t as posh as in Yalong Bay, but new construction plows ahead. On the

The tropical side of China on Sanya’s beach. Right: The Hilton Sanya Resort & Spa’s lobby. Opposite, from left: Some rock calligraphy in Luhuitou Park; sun-drenched beaches and snap-happy tourists.

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seafront promenade, seafood restaurants dish out local fare. After a pleasant afternoon sojourn mixing with Russians and Chinese of all shapes and sizes, my sunset dinner, which is dragged live from huge tanks in front of the tables, then cooked as I wait. Hailing a taxi back to Yalong Bay reveals a less palatable side to Sanya’s tourism, however. A string of aggressive taxi drivers try to charge me 10 times the RMB 40–50 fare, and it’s only after a friendly local bargains on my behalf that I finally get back to my resort. Warning: late at night it is unwise to take a taxi from the city alone. Earlier in the day I had climbed the 181-meter hill that looms over Dadonghai Bay and is crowned by Luhuitou Park, which boasts a superb panorama across the city and vast Sanya Bay. Luhuitou Park’s winding paths lead past ancient banyan trees and painted rock faces. Unsurprisingly, this park is popular with canoodling couples. More than once, I blunder into tender love scenes or heavy petting sessions, causing cringe-worthy levels of consternation and embarrassment on all sides. I figure it’s best to look out, not in. Across Dadonghai Bay, the grounds of two luxury hotel resorts have opted for exclusivity with their own private beaches. Close to Luhuitou Park’s entrance is the Banyan Tree Sanya Resort and Spa, which opened in April 2008, while on the far side of the bay is the equally luxurious and even newer Mandarin Oriental. The fact that in such troubling economic times these and other luxury hotels still see a profitable market for tourism in the Sanya region is noteworthy. St. Regis, Shangri-La and Four Seasons all have plans for resorts around Sanya. “Hong

The ﬁrst time I meet a crowd of 50-plus Chinese tourists all decked out in HAWAIIAN shirts and shorts, I burst into laughter

Kong was our major market before [the global economic crisis], but now Beijing and Shanghai are our focus,” says Peter Pedersen, the Banyan Tree Sanya’s general manager. and luxury resorts aside, it is Hainan’s natural, cultural and historical attractions that really pique the interest of tropical resort-goers looking for a change of pace. Sanya has enough sights to ﬁll a few daytrips, but they are spread widely and require a fair bit of driving. This is what happens when mass Chinese package tourism meets a “Hawaii-style” beach mentality. I head west of Sanya city, 25 kilometers around the immense curve of Sanya Bay to Tianya Haijiao—the “Edge of Heaven, Corner of the Sea” to you or me—China’s southernmost tip. This collection of large rocks on the beach has become the focal point of a tourism park, frequented by tour groups and families of Chinese who dress in matching Hawaiian shirts and shorts—an open declaration of their holiday spirit and a nod to the “China’s Hawaii” poster »

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When in Hainan, do as the Hawaiians do: a group of Chinese men pose at Yalong Bay.

campaign. The first time I meet a crowd of 50-plus Chinese tourists all decked out in Hawaiian outfits, their sun-yellow, lime-green, sky-blue or fluorescent pink clothing patterned with a phantasmagoria of flowers, palm trees and tropical fish, I burst into laughter. I’m instantly ashamed. The joyous group quickly swallows me up, its bolder members engaging me in broken conversation and the inevitable group photo. Inscribed on Tianya Haijiao’s jumbled rocks are calligraphic poems by Qing dynasty officials who lamented their posting to the “End of the Earth.” Everyone has their photo snapped in front of the inscriptions, before bustling off to explore the gardens, take short trips around the bay or shop for tropical souvenirs made from shells or coconuts in the mayhem of the crowded market. Another 15 kilometers west is the Nanshan Cultural Tourism Zone, a huge complex of gardens, newly built temples and “shopping streets.” Although far from culturally profound, this is a perfect example of the Chinese penchant for mixing theme-park style tackiness with natural beauty and genuine spirituality. On a man-made island just offshore stands a 38-meter-high statue of Guanyin, the goddess of compassion. Here, the holiday mood is momentarily set aside. Tourists make offerings of money, incense and prayer under the benevolent gaze of the giant statue. Many of these same tourists will travel into the mountainous interior to visit ethnic Li and Miao villages— often tacky affairs aimed at trapping the tourist dollar—or to climb the1,840-meter Wuzhi Shan, Hainan’s highest mountain, where more authentic Li villages encircle the mountain base. Instead, I venture 90 minutes up the eastern coast to the Shimei Bay region, where in November 2008 Le Méridien opened a beautiful new resort on yet another pristine but slightly wilder beach. Not far away from the resort, there are hot springs and mountain retreats where monks built temples and cave dwellings. At Dongshan Ling, a cable car whisks me up to Chao Yin Temple, a centuries-old classical structure filled with statues of fierce Chinese deities and peaceful Buddha 102

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images. This is a much more familiar Chinese scene, the curving, dragon-topped temple eaves so like those in Beijing’s Summer Palace, the huge Laughing Buddha image akin to one in Hangzhou, its belly burnished to a shine by myriad hands as visitors rub it for good luck. Climbing well-worn steps to an ancient temple along with hordes of Chinese worshippers is a quintessential Middle Kingdom experience—though the tropical heat that lays like a suffocating blanket over us reminds us all that we are in Hainan, China’s tropical south. At the end of my stay I reflect on Sanya’s hopes for a sunsoaked future. The cultural sites offer both a glimpse of old China and an insight into the sometimes vulgar, often amusing and occasionally profound facets of the modern-day Middle Kingdom and its people. Hainan over Bali? Sanya instead of Samui? For most I suspect this is a big ask— outside the resorts, infrastructure and attitudes are still a little raw, a touch unsophisticated. But for me the joy of travel—even on a cosseted resort holiday—is in embracing contrasts and idiosyncrasies. For me it was Sanya this time, will be Samui next, Bali hopefully in the not too distant future… and yes, Sanya again before too long. ✚ GUIDE TO HAINAN WHEN TO GO Hainan is at its most comfortable between November and March, but its coastal breezes ensure it has year-round appeal. GETTING THERE China Southern Airlines (csair. com), Hainan Airlines (hnair.com), Dragonair (dragonair.com) and Hong Kong Airlines (hkairlines. com) fly to Sanya from China’s major cities. Korean Air flies from Seoul, while most other Southeast Asian cities have air connections to the island via Guangzhou. WHERE TO STAY Banyan Tree Sanya A hideaway that will appeal to honeymooners. 6 Luling Rd., Sanya; 86898/8860-9988; banyantree.com; pool villas from RMB2,494. Hilton Sanya Resort & Spa Ethnic Hainan architectural elements, hip and unusual room designs. Yalong Bay National Resort District; 86-898/88588888; hiltonsanya.com; doubles from RMB1,127. Kempinski Hotel Sanya Located at the western end of Sanya Bay close to Tianya Haijiao. Sanya Bay West; 86-898/3889-8888; kempinski-sanya.com; doubles from RMB1,278.

Le Méridien Shimei Bay Beach Resort & Spa A resort one third of the way up Hainan’s eastern coast. Shimei Bay, Liji County, Wanning; 86-898/6252-8888; lemeridien.com/shimeibay; doubles from RMB1,195. Mandarin Oriental Sanya Lavished with local teakwood, boasts stunning views. 12 Yuhai Rd., Sanya; 86-898/8820-9999; mandarinoriental.com/sanya; doubles from RMB1,590. The Ritz-Carlton, Sanya The latest addition to Yalong Bay boasts a design modeled after Beijing’s Summer Palace. Yalong Bay National Resort District; 86898/8899-8888; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from RMB1,299. Sanya Marriott Resort & Spa Lush gardens and a convivial, relaxed ambience that is popular with families. Yalong Bay National Resort District; 86898/8856-8888; marriott.com; doubles from RMB1,271. Sheraton Sanya Resort The ﬁrst international hotel on the island seems venerable now though it only opened in 2003. Yalong Bay National Resort District; 86-898/8855-8855; starwoodhotels.com/sheraton; doubles from RMB1,299.

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The Far East as Art

Capturing the romance of another era in Asia, when viewed today, classic travel posters not only offer a glimpse into the soul of the region but double up as colorful artwork to stir the urge to venture abroad

A French take on travel to their exotic outpost on the other side of the world.

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Indochina’s Angkor Wat and all the elements that once made it so foreign.

VOKING A TIME before the advent of journeys by jet and digital photography, days when Asia seemed bathed in a more romantic light, vintage travel posters have evolved into collectable pieces of artwork. As a form of advertising, these types of posters ﬁrst appeared towards the end of the 19th century, mainly in Europe and America. Once they ventured into travel as a subject, the posters began to reﬂect the styles and tastes of the destinations they promoted, quite vividly so around Asia as these pages show. Centered on historical imagery this region is well known for, the posters often incorporated drawings of inhabitants in local dress or of better-known tourist sites that are still

popular today. Distinct typography also lent to the sense of drama these posters aimed for, whether they promoted a national tourist board or simply a travel agent. Much of the artwork on these pages dates from the 1930’s, when a trip to Asia from Europe or America was a major journey. It was an era when wild elephants still roamed the ruins around Angkor and when ethnic dress was the norm in everyday life. Even by the 1950’s, travel to Southeast Asia from the West was still in its infancy, again an idea reﬂected in this artwork. Some of these scenes, such as the blossoming of Japan’s cherry trees or a Balinese dance ritual, still play out today, but there’s a distinctly romantic feel to the posters that is long gone.

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Some different welcoming sights to the then-British colony on the South China coast.

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This linen-backed poster heralded a fair in Vietnam early in the century. Opposite: In later decades, posters promoted tourism, with designs centered on distinct typography and iconic images of each destination.

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Even in the 1930â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rich cultural heritage was a draw for tourists.

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Some colorful, local Filipino ďŹ&#x201A;air that dates to the 1950â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s.

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Promoting travel to China, a country of striking extremes.

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HE NIGHTMARE OF EVERY TRAVELER stares us in the face. CLOSED, says the

sign at the check-in counter in Manila. Our 6:15 A.M. flight had been bumped up half an hour. We never knew. The woman at check-in makes a call and, after some tense discussion, she waves at us to hurry to the gate. This, a jolt of the unexpected, is just the sort of thing to expect on a trip to Batanes. The next surprise comes at the other end of the flight as we’re about to land. Batanes is the northernmost province of the Philippines, just 190 kilometers from Taiwan, a place where gale-force winds and more than its fair share of typhoons, batter these 10 islands about eight months a year. “We’ll make one attempt,” the pilot says sternly over the speakers. Our 32-seat Dornier 328 skims over the edge of a cliff and struggles defiantly against the brute wind. Thankfully, that lone attempt is enough to get us on the ground safely.

A lonely lighthouse squares off with the Paciﬁc Ocean on Batan Island, Batanes.

PHILIPPINES

Shelter

from the storms At the northern extreme of the Philippines, the secluded Batanes Islands are often battered by typhoons during the summer months. That, writes JOAN C. BULAUITAN, should not deter you from visiting these friendly shores. Photographed by GEORGE TAPAN 114

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The Wild North Clockwise from top left: Local transport on Batan Island; outside the unstaffed Honesty Café, where patrons write down what they had and leave the money; a resident sports native millinery in front of Chavayan’s colonial church; Batanes’s prized organic garlic.

Basco, the capital located on the island of Batan, is damp and chilly this Saturday. The hush at Pension Ivatan’s restaurant where we have lunch is broken by our squeals of delight when the cook brings out a live coconut crab and lets it crawl across the ﬂoor. Faint light from the grey afternoon reveals its leathery skin and cobalt-blue underbelly where most of the fat and eggs are stored. After lunch, we board a jeepney with our mild-mannered guide Francisco, our driver Alvin and 11 others for a tour of northern Batan Island, making stops at landmarks dubbed Radar Tukon, Valugan Beach and Naidi Hills, as well as Santo Domingo Church and some Japanese war remnants. Batan’s terrain is predominantly mountainous, with Mount Iraya in the north, Mount Mahatao in the southeast and undulating slopes of varying degrees of steepness everywhere around. Hillside patches of land, bordered with viaju reeds, are planted with garlic and subsistence crops like sweet potato and yam while grassy knolls are left for the cows to graze. At 69 square kilometers, the island is small enough that, at almost every turn, there is a view of the ruggedly dramatic coastline and a lighthouse. As we weave along roads through folds of the billowing landscape, I can’t stop pressing my nose against the wind to breathe in the salubrious air. At every stop, I dart to the top of a hill to reap the certain reward of a glorious, sweeping

vista. In Batanes, I realize, nature’s lashings are also a gift. They have stripped clean all that is excessive, to reveal a raw, starkly stunning face. ACK IN BASCO, I IDLE in a white, straight-backed chair at Café Napoli, waiting for our garlic and cheese pizza dinner. Out the window, I see a garden bursting with the crimson blooms of poinsettia. The heady scent of Dama de Noche drifts in and accompanies us through our evening stroll back to the pension house, interrupted only by the more assertive smell of barbecue from a streetside grill. This is the frenetic side of Sabtang. It’s market day and people from across the island have come to the main square to sell vegetables and other produce from the villages. A few dozen people are milling around, catching up on one another’s affairs while keeping an eye on their merchandise, most of which disappears by mid-morning. Sunday mass takes place at a pretty off-white church, which explains the deserted homes we ﬁnd on arriving in Savidug. Savidug is just one of Sabtang’s villages where Ivatans, the indigenous people of Batanes, still keep to the ways of their ancestors. Squat, cogon grass-roofed houses with walls of stone mixed with limestone and sand line the narrow lanes. I notice a couple of doors painted turquoise, a charming »

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contrast to the grayness of everything else. A few abandoned homes with their roofs swept away by storms reveal a full wall separating the sleeping area and the kitchen. “This was done to keep the residents safe in case of fire,” Francisco explains. Bigger homes even have a dining area in between. Mina Jaro, a Savidug native who now divides her time between Sabtang and Batan, lets us into her home. My eyes adjust to the darkness of her kitchen, where every item is blackened from soot. Chopped wood and dried branches are stacked on a shelf, strategically positioned near a stone-andmortar stove called a rapuyan. The rapuyan is set low on the floor, with an ash-covered tin disk that is pierced to let the fire through. I notice a kettle, a water container called angang, and buya, a rounded receptacle for salt. A cord with wooden hooks drops down from the ceiling for drying meat and fish. It is a spare, functional kitchen, just what one would expect from someone who lives only on the essentials. By the time we arrive in Chavayan, the next village, I am parched. It’s a blistering day and my sunscreen-free skin is feeling the abuse. I join two kids cooling themselves under a shade, while my companions shop for vacul and talugung (both forms of quirky, local headgear). I find the perfect noonday fix from a nearby vendor selling coconuts. He lops off one end of the shell. I dispense with all ladylike behavior and

Nakabuang Beach is a delightful bend of white sand and limestone OUTCROPS gulp every mouthful of juice that can be had. Then the vendor splits the nut in half so that I can scoop out its sweet, tender flesh. Before long, I drift off to a sunlit bliss. 1 P.M. AND WE’RE BACK at the Sabtang pier. Cool under the awning of Pananayan restaurant, I feel far removed from that morning’s boat ride from Batan, where the opposing Pacific and South China Sea reduced our tiny fallowa into a heaving mess. We lunch on coconut crab in sweet sauce, vegetables stewed with coconut milk, sweet–sour fish and yellow rice, which gets its color from a local turmeric-like ginger. With Cloud 9 chocolate bars for dessert, there is not much missing but a hammock. The next best thing, Nakabuang Beach, will do with its delightful bend of white sand and lengthy shadows under the limestone outcrops. As soon as my back touches the sand, I’m asleep.

T’S

Rugged Beauty Clockwise from top left: A traditional stone house in Chavayan designed to withstand gales and typhoons; Sabtang Island’s coastline; a herdsman ushering his cows to pasture; traditional wooden boats known as tataya. Opposite: A brightly painted school in Basco.

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Dinner is a wild departure from lunch, and from most meals in Batanes. It’s mushroom soup with bird’s nest, mixed salad with tarragon vinaigrette and Parmesan-crusted roast chicken accompanied by a side serving of oyster sauce with limoncello. We are at Fundacion Pacita in Batan Island, an arts group formed to honor Pacita Abad, the worldrenowned artist who was born in Batanes. The structure, with its red tile roof and stone façade, sits pensively on a bluff looking across the coast. Inside, Pacita’s trapunto-style paintings hang on the walls, giving testament to her love of color. I buy a couple of her books and ﬂip through their pages while enjoying what’s left of a divine cheesecake. That night, her magentas, yellows and reds race through my head as I sleep. The next day sees more surprises. “There are those who cheat, there are more who give and help,” declares Elena Gabilo, owner of Honesty Coffeeshop, an outlet that operates unmanned in the town of Ivana. When we arrived, we opened the refrigerator and took several bottles of Coke and a couple of San Miguels, listed down our purchases on a notebook where the prices are indicated, and deposited our payment in a wooden drop-box. Elena comes in minutes later to join us for a chat. “Locked doors are not part of our tradition,” she says. Such an unguarded attitude is typical of

Batanes residents, I reckon, as I’ve frequently observed vegetables and crops for sale left unattended on makeshift tables and windowsills. As we stroll around picturesque Ivana, we pass people doing their daily chores by hand. An unﬁnished tub-shaped boat called tataya sits alone under a shed, with carved trunks of Palomaria beside it. Boat-making is a common trade in many villages, with expert craftsmen passing on their skills to their children. At the ﬁshing village of Diura, we meet another craftsman dismantling a boat to replace its worn parts. He says he doesn’t measure anything. “We do everything by instinct,” he explains. The grassy, rolling hills of Marlboro country, locally called Racuh A Payaman, a communal pastureland, beckon us to lunch. Here the sky, the land and the sea are so wide that I wish I could embrace them all. It is this longing for breadth that has me climb to the top of the jeepney on the drive back to town. The sky is the limit, Pacita Abad proclaims in her book. She was right. Here in Batanes, it goes on forever. ✚

GUIDE TO BATANES WHEN TO GO The best time is the summer season from March to May. While storms can hit any time since Batanes lies in the typhoon belt, try to avoid the months of July and August. GETTING THERE Seair (63-2/849-0100; ﬂyseair. com) and Zest Airways, formerly Asian Spirit (63-2/852-4313; asianspirit.com) have regular ﬂights to Basco from Manila. WHERE TO STAY Batanes Resort Six stone houses with two rooms, each accommodating three people. Located on mountain slopes 2 kilometers from central Basco, every room gives a spectacular view of the sea. Ask for Jemma. Kaychanarianan, Basco, Batan Island; 63/927-582-9078, 63/921-957-1991; triples from P1,000. Brandon’s Lodging (formerly Pension Ivatan) An 11-room lodge close to the airport. Clean, basic accommodations with a common kitchen and living room. Centrally located. Kayvaluganan, Basco, Batan Island; 63/919-366-2158; triples from P1,000. Fundacion Pacita With nine rooms featuring narra wooden

ﬂooring, tasteful furnishings, and ﬁne artworks by Pacita Abad and other Ivatan and Filipino artists. Most guest rooms here have airconditioning, Wi-Fi access, a mini-bar, and a hot and cold shower. 63/917-795-8153; doubles from P3,900. WHAT TO DO Batanes Cultural Travel Agency Offers tour packages (63-2/8130510) or contact tour guide Francisco Castillo (63/918228-5327). Batan Island The 33-kilometer track circling the island can be covered on a motorbike in two hours but you’ll want more time to ruminate on the scenic meadows, remote lighthouses, gentle beaches and the big blue beyond. Sabtang Island With a population of less than 2,000, Sabtang is decidedly low-key. It is best known for its well-preserved traditional Ivatan stone houses. Itbayat Island The largest of Batanes’s three inhabited islands, it is also the farthest, with boat rides taking up to four hours on rough waters. Considered home of the tatus (coconut crabs), it is surrounded by massive boulders and cliffs rising up to 21 meters above sea level.

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ON THE WAY

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PORTO SEGURO, BRAZIL. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDERS OVERGAARD

So you THINK you know Thai islands? Blinded by the LIGHT in the Maldives On the sophisticated side of TAIPEI THE most beautiful spot on Brazil’s coast 121

Best Kept Secrets. If you’ve heard of you’re a step ahead of the sun-seeking Better still, there’s likely a secluded spot 122

The view towards Ko Adang.

any of these remote Thai islands, crowd, writes Stuart McDonald. waiting for you on the beach 123

Solitary strips of sand. Warm waters. The welcoming vibe of locals. A hammock swinging in the shade. Each of these off-the-map islands offers a different lure, but all are worth exploring for a day or a week. BURMA THAILAND

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Ko Chang Ko Phra Thong

RANONG

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Ko Taen

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SURAT THANI

Ko Kho Khao PHANG-NGA

KO LAO LIANG (TRANG PROVINCE)

NAKHON SITHAMMARAT

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KRABI

Ko Yao Noi

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Ko Yao Yai

PHATTALUNG

Ko Jum

TRANG ●

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TRAT

Ko Rok Ko Lao Liang

SATUN

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Ko Wai

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Ko Adang

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While its big sister Ko Tarutao is famed for playing host to the TV show Survivor Thailand, Ko Adang is where true Survivor wannabes now tread. The island’s rugged interior offers do-it-yourself trekking opportunities, splendid viewpoints and waterfalls that make for a rewarding frolic at the end of a tough walk. Break up your stay with a boat trip to nearby uninhabited Ko Hin Ngam, known for its fine snorkeling and polished lucky stone beach. But don’t take a stone as a keepsake unless you want a lifetime of bad luck. One traveler was run down by a long-tail boat while snorkeling the day after she pocketed one. She survived and mailed the stone back the next day. Rumor has it that the National Park Office receives hundreds every year. Apocryphal? Perhaps, but it’s best not to take any chances. Accommodation is National Park fare, with camping also available. Contact the National Parks office (66-74/783-485; tarutaosatun.go@hotmail. com; doubles from Bt600) for bungalow reservations.

MALAYSIA

A limestone boulder surrounded by teal Andaman waters— that’s Ko Lao Liang. Kayak around the island in less than an hour and then take a well-earned swim on Lao Liang’s solitary white strip of sand. The beach also hosts a “resort,” and both rest below a jungle-lashed cliff. “Deluxe tents” are where it’s at, but think family-size affairs that you probably went on holiday in when you were eight years old rather than a bourgeois bivouac. They’re roomy nonetheless, with a divided bedroom, bamboo matted ﬂoors and mattresses with linen. Most guests arrive as part of a multi-day package that combines your sleeping needs with snorkeling, scuba diving or rock-climbing expeditions—though you are welcome to just

I L L U S T R AT I O N BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N . P R E V I O U S S P R E A D : T O M H O O P S

KO ADANG (SATUN PROVINCE)

Off the map on Ko Phra Thong.

lay on the beach and count the grains of sand (Lao Liang Island, 66-84/304-4077; laoliangisland.com; two-night packages from Bt5,900).

CO U RT ESY O F G O L D E N B U D D H A R ES O RT

KO ROK (TRANG PROVINCE) If Lao Liang’s too contrived, seek out a true castaway experience on Trang’s Ko Rok. You need to bring your own water, and this fact alone may be your siren call. The twin islands of Ko Rok Nai and Ko Rok Nok boast splendid snorkeling in the slender azure channel that gushes between them. Ko Rok Nai has two pristine white sand beaches and the only permanent building in the area, a threadbare National Park ofﬁce that is hit-and-miss in terms of being opened. You’ll be camping in your own tent or sleeping on your yacht if you’re overnighting. Expect splendid starlit nights and be sure to take a midnight swim—the phosphorescence is amazing. Bring a lot of water—neither island has any natural spring—and a sharp machete for those coconuts. Daytrippers can reach Ko Rok from Ko Lanta, Ko Muk or Ko Kradan.

KO JUM (KRABI PROVINCE) Ko Jum and Ko Pu, set midway between luxury hotspot Ko Lanta and the mainland town of Krabi, are in fact one island, so don’t raise your eyebrows too much when backpackers swear Ko Pu is far less developed than Ko Jum. Ko Pu refers to the northern, more hilly reaches, while Ko Jum encom-

passes the southern, ﬂat sprawl, and both areas have nary a tailor shop in sight. Compared to nearby Lanta, this is a lowkey dreamland. Traditional and very conservative, the Muslim villages on the island have managed to keep the “scene” under control so if you’re after slow-swinging hammock time, you’re on the right path. Be sure to stop by one of the villages for breakfast—a hit of ko pii, strong coffee with a slurp of condensed milk, accompanied by dim sum or roti. To get back to basics head to one of the two original setups here, Joy Bungalows (66-81/398-6515; kohjum.com/joy; doubles from Bt300) or New Bungalows—go for one of their precarious treehouses (66-89/726-2652; nbkohjum@hotmail.com; doubles from Bt300). If you’ve got a ﬂashpacker streak try Ting Rai Bay Resort (66-87/277-7379; tingrai.com; doubles from Bt600).

KO YAO NOI (PHANG NGA PROVINCE) Wedged into the north of the Bay of Phuket, for years Ko Yao Noi was the “off the map” island on Thailand’s Andaman coast despite being ringed by some of the south’s hottest destinations. The conservative local villagers, however, have allowed developers to slip the net, and resorts and private villas are now sprouting like mushrooms in the wet season. Beaches are rocky and prone to mudﬂats at low tide, but when the water is in, you won’t need that inﬁnity pool. Koh Yao Noi Eco-Tourism Club (66-76/597-409; koh-yao-noi-ecotourism-club.com; homestays including food from Bt400 per person) » 125

offers a range of earth-friendly and socially responsible activities including village homestays, ﬁshing trips and sea canoeing. Backpackers are well served at the long-running Sabai Corner (66-76/597-497; sabaicornerbungalows.com; doubles from Bt1,000), ﬂashpackers head to Koyao Island Resort (6676/597-474-6; koyao.com; doubles from Bt4,700), while those planning on arriving by private helicopter should book a landing slot at Six Senses Hideaway Yao Noi Resort (6676/418-500; sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-Hideaway-Yao-Noi; doubles from Bt16,450).

KO YAO YAI (PHANG NGA PROVINCE) While Ko Yao Noi is slipping into the grasp of developers, larger and more rugged Ko Yao Yai remains a more untainted destination. Separated by a narrow channel from its smaller namesake, the island is just as culturally conservative, but the beaches are better and more numerous. The best beach, Hat Loh Paret, is a ﬁne affair, but don’t make the mistake of restricting yourself to a single slice of sand here during your stay as dozens of kilometers of beach with barely a thatch shack in eyeshot line much of the island’s

coast. Grab a bicycle or motorbike and explore the island at your leisure. Hit one beach a day and you’ll still have enough to keep you going for a week. Elixir, with private pool villas, are the ﬂashest digs on the island (elixirresort.com; 66-87/8083838; doubles from Bt6,000).

KO PHRA THONG (PHANG NGA PROVINCE) Buddhism runs deep in Thailand, so when an island is named Ko Phra Thong, or Golden Buddha Island, it says a lot about the place. Spectacular beaches grace the island’s western shore and provide both ﬁery sunsets and a landing strip for a sea turtle population that returns each year, seemingly against all the odds, to lay its eggs on these beaches. Ko Phra Thong was engulfed by the 2004 tsunami and the island’s sole accommodation at the time, the Golden Buddha Resort, was devastated. The resort has since been rebuilt and the turtle hatchery project it oversaw prior to the 2004 devastation has recommenced. Activities include a healthy list of diving, hiking and river-boat trips—supposedly with crocodiles still in residence, though all we saw on a recent visit were clutches of monkeys—yet the island sees only a fraction of the tourists it

C LO C KW I S E F RO M L E F T: CO U RT ESY O F T I N G RA I R ES O RT; CO U RT ESY O F J O Y B U N G A L O W S ; P R A D H A N A C H A R I YAV I L A S K U L ; C O U R T E S Y O F S I X S E N S E S

Sea Side Left: Ting Rai Bay Resort on Ko Jum. Below: A spa bathroom at Six Senses Hideaway. Right: Joy Bungalows, one of the original getaways in Krabi.

Ko Phra Thong’s western shore provides both ﬁery 126

Sand Castles Above: The scenic Ko Lao Liang. Right: A long-tail boat awaits on Ko Jum. Below: Exploring Ko Yao Yai by bike or by boat.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F T I N G R A I B AY R E S O R T ; P R A D H A N A C H A R I YAV I L A S K U L ; © D O N S I M O N / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; J O C K M O N T G O M E R Y

Surf Time Left: Sunset on the Andaman Sea from Ko Lao Liang. Above: Low-key scenes at the Ting Rai Bay Resort.

deserves. Once you’re familiar with the island, it’s easy to get even further off the map with a day- or overnight-trip to Ko Ra, a craggy, almost-Jurassic jungle covered isle, just to the north. On Ko Phra Thong, rent out individually designed wooden houses at Golden Buddha Resort Club (66-81/8922208; goldenbuddharesort.com; doubles from Bt3,055)—from the same team who put together Krabi’s Raileh Beach. One thing worth remembering: like many of these smaller spots to stay, the resort is closed in June but re-opens once high season kicks in again in October or November.

KO KHO KHAO (PHANG NGA PROVINCE) If Ko Phra Thong’s cocktail list just doesn’t cut it, the windswept beaches and full service resorts on Ko Kho Khao could be more to your liking. Its proximity to Phuket has seen a comprehensive range of lodgings appear and within range for a Bangkok weekender. The northern grassy fields of the island hosted a Japanese airfield during World War II—rumor has it that “persons of influence” would love to see the secret landing strip rebuilt so they can exploit Ko Kho Khao wholesale. So far that’s on the distant horizon, and for now the bulk

of offerings are clustered in the island’s south. A car ferry plies a route to the island too. Like Ko Phra Thong, this is also home to a turtle hatchery—it’s amazing any make it considering the number of trawlers you’ll see offshore (Ko Kho Khao Resort; 66-076/592-777; kkkresort.com; doubles from Bt1,200).

KO CHANG (RANONG PROVINCE) Forever known as “the other” Ko Chang—a destiny that perfectly suits most Ko Changites—this blip of an island midway between Ranong and Ko Phayam attracts a steady trade of backpackers and flashpackers who eschew the island’s far more familiar namesake in eastern Thailand. Don’t expect too many creature comforts—an air-con unit or a cocktail list that extends beyond Sangsom whiskey with a mixer qualifies as luxurious on this Ko Chang. The bulk of the accommodation graces four distinct west or southwest facing bays, with nearly all offering breathtaking views of the jagged St. Matthew Island (Zadetkyi Kyun) in Burma. In April, the Loi Reua festival sees many sea gypsies—a nomadic sea people also known as Morgan, who inhabit islands in the Mergui Archipelago and further afield—set sail for the »

sunsets and a strip for sea turtles to lay their eggs 127

A throwback to Samui of decades past, if time 128

Ko Surin island group. Their vessels sailing en masse between Ko Chang and St. Matthew’s is a sight to behold. Sea gypsies and the island’s one viewpoint walk aside, this is a strictly book-and-hammock destination. There’s a little snorkeling, and resident dive shops can organize trips to Ko Surin and further aﬁeld. Ko Chang Resort (66-81/896-1839; kohchangandaman.com; doubles from Bt200) is a good option.

The Six Senses Hideaway on Ko Yao Noi.

KO TAEN (SURAT THANI PROVINCE) A mere 20 minutes off the south coast of Ko Samui—one of Thailand’s most popular islands—lies a little-visited island where a coconut plantation is about as built up as it gets. Ko Taen offers a couple of glorious beaches, fine snorkeling, mangrove forests, caves filled with bats and, oddly for Thailand, not a single dog. A throwback to Samui of decades past, Ko Taen attracts far more daytrippers than overnight visitors but, if time allows, you’d be mad not to give this place a night or two. Lodgings are basic wooden and thatch bungalows—you might even need to squat—but the lack of amenities is more than made up for by the welcoming vibe and friendly locals. Much of the local population has moved to Samui in search of work, but those who remain can set you up to visit the caves when the thousands of bats fly in or out—supposedly the high pitch of the bat’s call keeps the dogs away, but the villagers’ dislike of dogs is a more likely reason. You can also cycle across the island to the mangrove forest where boat trips are led among the low-slung trees. It’s a sleepy spot and a peek into what Samui once was. Get a transfer here from Ban Thong Krut on Samui’s south coast.

CO U RT ESY O F S I X S E N S ES

KO WAI (TRAT PROVINCE) Almost within earshot of Ko Chang—the big, brash, boisterous one—Ko Wai begs the question, why not? It’s a simple affair with a bunch of beaches and a handful of bungalow resorts. Ko Wai is a hit with daytrippers from Ko Chang, which lies a mere 5 kilometers to the north, and boatloads descend daily. What makes the snorkeling good here is not so much the coral as the variety and number of ﬁsh—you’ll see as great a range of ﬁsh here as on either Ko Tao or Ko Phi Phi in Thailand’s south. You can also make your own feeding frenzy under the pier—ideal for the kids. While the main beach gets busy in the middle of the day, these hours are best spent hammock-bound in the shade and once the last boat leaves, you’ll have the island to yourself. All the accommodation is backpacker oriented with Ko Wai Pakarang restaurant (66-84/113-8946; kohwaipakarang.com; doubles from Bt1,200) being the pick of the bunch thanks to its good restaurant. ✚

allows you’d be mad not to give Ko Taen a night 129

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Aquamarine in parts, and azure. Should I even mention cerulean? It’s all of these and more, and as much as man constantly attempts to improve upon this natural perfection with grander than grand villas and holistic spa treatments and opulent three-tiered yachts, the Maldives is at its best when you’re simply staring at the sea from one of its atolls, as I’m doing at this very moment. Nothing else matters as small, clear, salty waves wash over my toes, sweeping in from the distant horizon that is the Indian Ocean. Much in the news as the flattest country on the planet—it averages 1.5 meters above sea level—and subsequently the most at risk from global warming and a rising ocean, the Maldives is a series of ancient coral reefs that grew around prehistoric volcanoes. Those peaks have since sunk into the ocean leaving behind dozens of atolls and 1,200 islands. One sixth of those are inhabited with a pleasant people who place their right hand on their heart when they greet each other in Dhivehi with “maruhaba.” All that aside, my mind wanders to less serious matters. No matter, the Maldives elicits postcard-sized thoughts along with its Monet-sized dinner bills. As I spot a small crab scurrying into the lapping water, I have a Homer Simpson moment and start dreaming about what I’m going to have for lunch. First though I have to head to breakfast. Then a two-hour spa appointment. And I think I check out this afternoon, though my mind is a blank slate; I do not remember what day it is. Not to worry, my villa host will remind me. Cleansing—be it your mind, body, soul or wallet—is what any visit to this string of islands far from anywhere is all about. »

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a 2-meter-high, crumbling brick beehive that was once an oven for baking bread. Not your typical resort accoutrement, but an interesting remnant just the same. The Shangri-La is the latest resort to open in the Maldives and, to its credit, has kept several bits of history such as this oven left over from the days when the Addu Atoll was a British military base in World War II. At the very bottom of the atoll, the island of Gan was later turned into an air force landing strip, the British only pulling out of the Maldives’ southernmost point in 1976. Next to Gan, Villingili is a relatively lush island, home to decades-old banyan trees and bent coconut palms—a staggering 17,000 in all—most of which haven’t been planted by a landscaping crew. Note to self: there are guys who come in four times a year to shimmy up those palm trees and harvest the coconuts. Best to visit the resort after their work is done. Atop what once was a British gun turret is now a spa, while avid divers can explore a war-time wreck named the British Loyalty that was scuppered off nearby Hithadhool Jhef_YWb >[Wj <hec Island in 1946. b[\j0 Fh[fWh_d] W Zêd_ \eh Today, if you turn your attention Wd W\j[hdeed iW_b1 j^[ ZWoÊi l_jWb ijWj_ij_Yi Xo j^[ feeb due south from Villingili, beyond a Wj j^[ Ed[ Edbo1 W beYWb horizon where the blue of the sky b_pWhZ [dèoi j^[ ikd$ Effei_j[ fW][0 F[ZWb_d] and the blue of the sea merge, the WhekdZ j^[ Ed[ Edbo$ next speck of landfall is 900 or so 8_a_d_" BW F[hbW1 `WYa[j WdZ iêhji" 9[b_d[1 XW]" ]bel[i kilometers away on Diego Garcia, WdZ l_ieh" Bek_i Lk_jjed1 iê[i" <[dZ_$ another British military base. Be-

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yond that, it’s Antarctica. Pretty impressive, given that you’re standing a mere 75 kilometers below the equator. Seventy minutes by plane south of the capital of Male, Gan pales under that equatorial sun. That must explain why its boats and buildings are painted in a rainbow of colors. To interlopers like me, it’s a Maldivian oddity on several fronts. For starters, it’s one locale, aside from the capital of Male, where islanders and tourists actually mingle. Resorts in the Maldives are selfcontained, never-have-to-leave entities where contact with the local population is limited to a knock at the door from room service. In the case of the new Shangri-La, at least the culturally curious can hop on a boat and in eight minutes be on Gan to explore and interact with a Muslim populace it’s easy to think doesn’t exist. The resort itself is what you would expect of a brand new five-star in a paradisiacal setting: a combination of villas perched over water, villas tucked snugly onto private beaches and still other villas on 3-meter stilts to make you feel, the resort hopes, as if you’re in a tree house—one with a separate living room. All the creature comforts—including two iPods and a docking station, a flat-screen television, an espresso machine and, in the closet, two life jackets—are here so there’s little reason to leave your room. There are natural trails both above and below water but everywhere you look, water dominates. Which is why it seems a bit odd that many of the villas come with infinity pools: from these low-slung coral reefs, the ocean is the biggest infinity pool you could ever hope for. Can you say spoiled for choice? »

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HOULD I WISH , A KINO NAGAMINE TELLS ME , I could book the entire resort for a night or seven. All 130 villas. I’m at One&Only, one of the more posh resorts in a country where posh resorts are strewn across the sea like some magical dust. And Nagamine, who works in sales and marketing at the resort, is at ease speaking of all things plush and those who demand them. And she’s pretty adept at rally driving an electric cart along bleach-white coral sand lanes that connect the spa with the waterfront villas with the swish Middle Eastern restaurant. The four seaters, she tells me in her best Top Gear critique, are easier to maneuver than the eight seaters. Nagamine doesn’t bat an eye when she says it would cost more than a million dollars a night to reserve the resort and we might be looking at two years down the road. Forget next June already. Christmas and Easter are out too. Swerving to avoid a smiling houseboy on his bicycle rounds, we change the topic—we can’t change gears—and head out to a collection of water villas, which are as spacious outdoors as in. A split-level deck is encircled by netting suspended as hammocks, the lagoon just a splash away. Reethi Rah, or “beautiful island” in Dhivehi, quadrupled in size once 1.5 million tons of sand was added. It’s now home to a dozen beaches, each of which is hand-raked in the morning well before any guest in the 130 villas wakes. Guests here don’t check in but instead disappear for the day. Villas are so secluded, it often looks like no one else is here but there is one subtle hint, at least at the villas on the island: each comes equipped with two bicycles to tour around the island under your own equatorial steam. Someone’s in residence if one or both are missing. Exclusivity is key on these islands—a resort like One&Only even adjusts its clocks to one hour ahead of the capital Male so guests can enjoy an extra hour of sunlight each afternoon (don’t even mention losing the hour in the morning: remember, no one is up at that time of day). Come nightfall, I quickly learn to get as far away from all artificial light as is possible: the equatorial, middle-of-the-ocean sky is littered with what must be thousands, maybe tens of thousands of stars. More than even the vast seascape, that sky makes you feel small. Yet, superlatives are as common as coral in the Maldives. One&Only, for instance, describes itself as “an intoxicating mix of sleek sophistication and island charm.” That line is not speaking of the 18,000 bottles of wine on the island, including champagne by the glass or the magnum, but of drinking in the views, whether day or night. »

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ITH SHORT, DARK HAIR AND BLACK EYES AS piercing as his advice, Dr. Kannan Nettah looks too young to be a doctor, ayurvedic or otherwise. My late afternoon meeting with him at the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru is simply another piece in the paradise puzzle: when in paradise, you spa. Originally from Kerala, now practicing in Mumbai and temporarily back in the Maldives after earlier having spent two years here, Dr. Nettah is going to pinpoint my dosha—less painful than it sounds—to prepare me for a two-hour treatment the following morning. After reviewing the five elements of the traditional Indian system of medicine and having me check off how they apply to my life, Dr. Nettah nods knowingly at the conclusion of my dosha type: pitta. But he didn’t really have to mention my graying temples or the wrinkles on my forehead, now did he? All is forgotten after my treatment—something called elakishi, a series of oil and herb massages by two therapists (how I ever coped with only one I will never know) followed up with a spell in a steam room and a shower with what appears to be two types of mud, which leave me as clean as the day I was born. All, that is, except for the fact that Dr. Nettah advised against too much sun and to avoid pungent, or spicy, food. Problem is, I live in Thailand. 8[WY^ I[di[ B[\j0 So I do, as the good doctor suggests, 7j Ed[ EdboÊi C_ZZb[ ;Wij[hd manage to avoid the sun at Blu, a restau<WdZ_j^W h[ijWkhWdj$ rant perched at the waters’ edge. As I IWdZWbi WdZ `kcfik_j" Bek_i tuck into a midday salad—non-spicy, Lk_jjed1 ikd]bWii[i" you’ll note—three baby Sicklefin lemon 9^h_ij_Wd :_eh$

sharks glide through the clear shallow water and, after an hour of intensive study and experimentation, I can confidently inform you that lemon sharks do not care for bread sticks. This, the newer of the Four Seasons in the country, is located on the Baa Atoll and overlooks a 2-kilometer-long turquoise lagoon that reveals an exclamation point of a sand spit at low tide just off the sand-floored bar at Blu. Each of the bungalows and villas here on land is hidden behind coral walls and blue doors, while the above-water accommodation is staggered so that guests only stare out at a sweep of electric-blue sea. At the end of the afternoon, after being politely reminded that, yes, today happens to be check-out day, I hop aboard a float plane—barefoot pilots and all—to visit the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa, en route back to Male and a late-night flight. From a float plane, the atolls look like they’re bubbling up from the ocean, all indigo blue and aquamarine green. A stunning natural sight. Only 12 kilometers from the capital, Kuda Huraa is designed to reflect a Maldivian village, with walls of layered coral (stone in this case as it’s none too environmentally friendly to build a resort out of coral these days) separating the villas, which are circular in shape with grass roofs tied off at two points at the top. What strikes me about Kuda Huraa though is the small spa, perched on its own island, a two-minute bob away by dhoni. Yet, as it always seems to do in the Maldives, a fireball of a sun is setting and, from across the atolls, I can almost hear my boarding announcement. Besides, once it’s dark, I can’t fathom what color the sea is anymore and there’s no point in being in the Maldives if you can’t dream up another shade of blue now is there? ✚

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TAIPEI THE NEXT GENERATION

IN THE THRIVING METROPOLIS THAT IS TAIWAN’S CAPITAL, PANKAJ MISHRA FINDS SOPHISTICATED CUISINE, HIGHLY AMBITIOUS ARCHITECTURE, VAST STORES OF CHINESE ART AND PASSIONATE DEBATE ABOUT THE FUTURE. PHOTOGRAPHED BY ZUBIN SHROFF 132

Street food for sale in Raohe Market, in Taipeiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Songshan district.

IT SHOULD TAKE LESS THAN TWO HOURS TO FLY FROM Shanghai to Taipei. But, when I visited, there were no commercial flights between the two cities yet. Coming from China, I had to go to Hong Kong in order to reach Taiwan’s capital, and the trip took almost a whole day. So close and yet so far; and every hour I spent getting to Taipei—at airports, on flights—heightened my sense that I was traveling to a remote place that had dropped out of time. Taiwan’s giant neighbor certainly helps create that impression. I had been to China many times but, gripped by the sheer energy and scale of the country’s modernization, I had paid little attention to the small island off its coast. Of course Taiwan, which parted ways with Communist China in 1949, has been modern for a long time. It had built an industrial economy by the 1970’s, when China was still a largely rural and poor country coping with the devastation caused by Mao Zedong. Very prosperous in terms of per capita income, Taiwan does not suffer from the extreme economic inequality and environmental devastation that increasingly darken China’s future. Culturally and politically, too, Taiwan is in some ways ahead of China. Taiwan’s pop music is hugely popular and influential across East Asia, and filmmakers like Edward Yang (director of Yi Yi) and Hou Hsiao-hsien (Flowers of Shanghai) are revered around the world. After remaining politically stagnant during 40 years of continuous martial law, Taiwan experienced a popular citizen’s movement that turned the island into a democracy in 1987—the first anywhere on Chinese soil. Today, its population of 23 million contains a large and well-educated middle class. Yet Taiwan has no place at the United Nations or any other international organization. Even countries that maintained diplomatic relations with it for decades have abandoned it for China; Taiwan’s democratically elected leaders are unwelcome in most countries. The Taiwanese I have met in the United States and Europe often lament their country’s exclusion from the international community. Shortly before leaving for Taiwan, I spoke to Lung Ying-tai, one of the island’s leading writers. Lung spent

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years in Europe and America before returning in the 1990’s to participate in Taiwan’s democratization. “We used to think of China as a backward and isolated place,” she said. “But it is Taiwan that is now isolated, through no fault of its own. It really makes me very sad.” I remembered her words as I journeyed to Taipei. Arriving late at night, I prepared for a melancholy city resigned to its marginal status. But there was nothing mournful about the garish thickets of throbbing billboards I saw as I drove in from the airport. Passing the crowded night markets, through the smells of seafood and the sounds of good-humored haggling, I felt as though I had arrived in another great Chinese city, a counterpart to Hong Kong and Shanghai. Opening the curtains in my room at Shangri-La’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel the next morning, I saw a sprawl of utilitarian concrete blocks enclosed on all sides by green hills. Compared to the slick kitsch of Shanghai, Taipei’s modernity initially seemed a bit dated, belonging to the 1970’s. But within this aging cityscape stood Taipei 101, one of the tallest buildings in the world. Resembling an elongated pagoda at the top, it rose shiny tier by shiny tier out of a haze of pollution into the blue sky. It dwarfed the landscape. Self-consciously grand architecture usually leaves me cold. During the days that followed, I made no attempt to get to the top of Taipei 101. Yet I often found myself standing at my hotel window, arrested by the big, beautiful apparition above the gray city. It spoke eloquently of Taiwan’s prosperity, and I came to see that it represented the national ambition of a fascinating country and people that had been unfairly shunned by the world. TAIWAN’S IDENTITY IS DEEPLY ROOTED IN CHINESE CULTURE. Around 70 percent of the island’s modern population consists of migrants from the southern Chinese province of Fujian— right across the Taiwan Strait—and almost 75 percent speaks the Min-nan dialect of Fujianese. But as the example of the United States proves, settler populations eventually ﬁnd their own ways of deﬁning themselves, breaking with the mother country. Taiwanese self-perception has changed particularly swiftly over the past 12 years: according to a recent survey »

Eastern Promises Opposite, clockwise from top left: Tea service at the Wistaria teahouse, in the Da’an district; Chow Yu, owner of the Wistaria; the Red House Theater, in Ximending; Yong He Dou Jiang Da Wong (“Yonghe Soy Milk King”) restaurant, a popular breakfast spot; shopping at the Breeze Center, in eastern Taipei; xiaolongbao, porkand-crab soup dumplings, at Din Tai Fung; an ofﬁce worker outside the Taipei 101 tower; a courtyard at the National Palace Museum. Center: The Fuxing South Road shopping area.

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A view of the 509-meter-tall Taipei 101 from the Shangri-La hotel.

ONE AFTERNOON, I WALKED INTO WISTARIA TEAHOUSE — INTO A WORLD WHERE TIME HAD BEEN ORDERED TO STAND STILL in the Economist, the number of those identifying themselves as Taiwanese has doubled to 41 percent, while those who see themselves as purely Chinese have dwindled to 6 percent of the population. But it didn’t take me long to discover that many Chinese traditions—condemned as “feudal” and “bourgeois” in Communist China—never faded in Taiwan, and are actually experiencing a revival. Deprived of its traditions, China today is especially vulnerable to the most commercialized forms of pop culture: a Chinese version of American Idol called Super Girl, for example, draws record viewership. I found it heartening that one of the most popular television shows in Taiwan features a puppet theater called budaixi, whose costumes and plots draw on ancient Chinese sources. And if you are a sinophile, the best reason to visit Taipei is the National Palace Museum. With jade-green tiled roofs and yellow walls that loom dramatically out of a mountain valley north of downtown Taipei, it holds one of the largest collections of Chinese artifacts and artwork in the world, including the famous Jade Cabbage—a piece of jade carved to resemble a head of cabbage—and a boat carved out of an olive pit. Much of the best Asian art resides in Western museums. But China, which was never fully conquered or occupied by a Western country, managed to hold on to much of its heritage, and a lot of it was carted away to Taiwan in 1949 by Chinese Nationalists ﬂeeing the Communist army of Mao. Renovated in 2007, the National Palace Museum can lay claim to being the Louvre of Asia. The tearoom at the museum is a replica of the Three Treasures room at the Forbidden City in Beijing, but when I arrived I found the restoration had left its once-spectacular carved and painted ceiling colored gray-brown. But then, Taipei doesn’t lack for teahouses—indeed, there is a new vogue for them among the young, who had previously preferred to hang out at Starbucks and other coffee shops. One afternoon, I walked from the busy and smoggy Xinsheng South Road into Taipei’s famous Wistaria teahouse—and into a world where time had been ordered to stand still. Music from Chinese lutes ﬂoated through the room; sunlight streaming in from wood-framed windows and skylights and bamboo curtains created dappled patterns on the tatami mats. Green moss clung to the dark red-brick walls. In the small Japanese garden at the back, a spring bubbled quietly amid little ponds and stone tables. The teahouse’s owner, Chow Yu, who resembles the wispybearded sage of Chinese landscape painting, performed a serving ritual, mixing teas and warming miniature pots and bowls with delicate and elegant gestures. Teahouses in imperial China, he explained, were places where the literati gath-

ered. No other traditional culture venerates writers and intellectuals as much as the Chinese. Chow explained that he uses only the ceramic ware favored by the scholarly class in old China: yixing, which best retains the flavor of tea. But Wistaria is connected as much to Taiwan’s eventful modern history as to the classical past. Built in 1921, the twostory building was originally Chow’s family residence. “Many writers and intellectuals would gather here in the 1950’s to talk about art and politics,” he said. “It was dangerous, because Taiwan was under martial law and we could have been accused of sedition.” After Chow turned the building into the Wistaria in 1981, it became the favorite watering hole of intellectuals and politicians who participated in the movement for democracy in 1987. Taiwan has moved on. Its democracy is now a raucous and unruly affair, with two main parties—the Chinese Nationalist Party (KMT) and the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP), color-coded blue and green, respectively—that periodically assault each other with allegations of corruption and incompetence. But Wistaria remains popular among the city’s literati. Joining me for a light lunch of steamed vegetables and hot-and-sour soup that afternoon were Chen Hao, a television talk show host, and Yang Ze, an editor at the China Times, Taiwan’s leading daily newspaper. Like the cities of Italy and France, Taipei abounds in literary bookstores, the kind that have Philip Roth rather than Dan Brown in the window display. Ze confirmed my impression of a small but cultivated reading public. Newspapers, he told me, publish literary supplements every day. The flow of translations from foreign literatures is brisk. Speaking of his own love for literature, Hao was embarrassed to admit that he worked in television. Laughing, he said, “I despise television. I really do!” I asked Hao and Ze about the windows with metal security grating that I had seen on apartment buildings everywhere in Taipei. “It reflects the general sense of insecurity of the recent refugees from China, as well as of the Taiwanese who have long been residents here,” Hao said. He and Ze went on to speak about politics with a frankness that slightly alarmed me; it would have been inconceivable in China. They explained how modern Taiwan remains the unfinished business of the civil war that raged in China in the early 20th century. Since 1949, when the Chinese Nationalists fled to Taiwan, the country has remained in a sort of limbo. American support for Taiwan’s separate identity has steadily dwindled since President Nixon traveled to Beijing in 1972 and began to normalize relations with China. But Taiwan is prevented from being absorbed into what Chinese Communists call their “motherland” mainly by the might » 145

WE SAT IN A PRIVATE ROOM INTO WHICH WAITERS BROUGHT of the U.S. Seventh Fleet, which still patrols the narrow strait between Taiwan and China. “Because Uncle Sam protects us from Big Brother,” Ze said, “we have been heavily influenced by him in many respects, more than we have been influenced by Japan, which ruled Taiwan from 1895 to 1945. American movies and music were very important to all of us who grew up after 1949. There were scholarships to American universities, and almost every educated Taiwanese aimed to study in the United States. Many of those who went as students settled down there.” Meeting other Taiwanese, I discovered a reverse trend: many of those educated or formerly settled in Europe and America are returning to the island. Along with countries like Singapore and Malaysia, Taiwan was among the first movers of globalization, well before the word became widely known. It also helped bring China into the web of global trade and investment. Taiwanese money routed through Hong Kong accounted for a large part of the initial foreign investment in China in the 1980’s and 90’s. The chance to do business with the fastest-growing economy in the world is bringing many Taiwanese expatriates back to Asia. 146

In a posh club adjacent to Taipei 101, I met Joanna Lei, a businesswoman and influential legislator for the KMT. We sat in a private room into which waiters dressed from head to toe in black discreetly brought one delicately flavored dish after another; the Chinese love of good food was evident in the loud voices eddying around the club, and the chopsticks fluttered over steaming plates of fish and vegetables. Traveling to the United States as a student, Lei had risen from research editor at ABC Television to senior executive. She was, as she put it in a strong American accent, “one of the highest-ranked Asian-Americans in the media industry.” In the late 90’s, she terminated a promising career trajectory and returned to Taiwan. “I was half-fulfilled in America,” she said. “I wanted to see what I could do in Taiwan.” Lei hasn’t found it easy to negotiate Taiwan’s highly charged and sometimes nasty politics. When I met her, she was fighting to clear her father, a former defense official, of corruption charges. The rise of China, she said, has crudely polarized Taiwanese society into people who want greater integration with China and those who want independence. She herself hopes for integration. Indeed, as I discovered, the issue of reunification with

Fuxing Road from an elevated rail station. From far left: Daily prayers at the Bao-An Temple, in Datung; the interior of Bolero, the city’s ﬁrst Western-style eatery; the dated welcome outside the restaurant.

IN ONE DELICATELY FLAVORED DISH AFTER ANOTHER China is a Taiwanese obsession. All my conversations in Taipei inevitably veered toward it. When I reported Lei’s views to Lin Cho-shui, a former legislator from the DPP, he responded sharply: “Taiwan is a democracy and China is a dictatorship. How can the two come together?” Perhaps, as the writer Lung Ying-tai suggested, China will have to catch up with Taiwan and become properly democratic before unification can happen. Many Chinese intellectuals and activists, she claimed, see Taiwan as an inspirational model for democracy in China. It was Wen C. Ko, one of Taiwan’s leading venture capitalists, who outlined the most likely and practicable scenario. Sitting in his company’s boardroom in Neihu, an upscale business district, he said the inexorable forces of globalization would bring about a gradual and peaceful unification. Taiwanese companies, many of which had sent much of their work to the mainland over the past decade, are now physically relocating to the Chinese coast, he explained. The close intermeshing of business interests is likely to improve political relations. There are already signs of a thaw: scheduled flights between Shanghai and Taipei have been allowed. Taiwan is letting more tourists from the mainland visit.

LOOKING AT IT FROM A BUSINESS PERSPECTIVE, TAIWAN’S absorption into China could make sense. Still, as Ko’s son Patrick pointed out, Taiwan’s youth (almost one-fourth of Taiwan’s electorate is under 30) is far from embracing China’s imitation-modern culture. One afternoon I went to a performance of traditional Taiwanese opera at the Red House Theater, in the Ximending area. Built by the Japanese in 1908, the red-brick octagonal building was recently renovated, like many old structures in Taipei. Stylishly dressed people filled the café on the first floor and the theater on the second, sitting impressively still during the ancient and—to my ears at least—somewhat long-winded two-hour performance. It is as though democratization has allowed the Taiwanese to rediscover all the many aspects of their identity. The proof that Taiwan’s cosmopolitanism was imprinted not only by China and the United States but also by Japan shone vividly in the pedestrianized streets of Ximending. Here, stalls selling manga comics, Japanese video games and American baseball caps alternate with food carts peddling oyster noodles and “stinky tofu,” strictly an acquired taste. Youth also dominate the crowd of worshippers at Longshan temple, the city’s most revered site. It’s in Taipei’s oldest » 147

A garden outside the Ibuki restaurant, at Shangri-La’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel.

BUDDHISM IS A PRESENCE IN TAIWAN’S CIVIL SOCIETY district, near Snake Alley, one of the city’s more famous night markets where snakes are sold as food. An incongruous sight in their jeans and high heels and name-brand handbags among the temple’s fantastically gilded and lacquered pillars and walls, men and women in their late teens and twenties kneeled, bowed and held up smoldering incense sticks with a touching devotion. Patrick Ko, who like many upper-class Taiwanese was educated in the United States, told me that Buddhism has experienced a big revival in Taiwan, which now has the largest number of nuns in the world. Indeed, Buddhists from Taiwan are now transmitting their teachings to the mainland—a reversal of the historical process that had originally brought the religion to Taiwan. And Buddhism in Taiwan has an even more special aspect: it is less introspective and more oriented toward social welfare than Buddhism in the United States. Buddhist organizations run nurseries, orphanages, hospitals, retirement homes and clinics; they are an important presence in Taiwan’s civil society. Patrick himself seemed part of a strong current of idealism running through contemporary Taiwan. While in his twenties, he could have joined his father’s company, easing himself into an Asian elite. Instead, he had chosen to teach in a small school in Nepal. “I know many people my age,” he said, “who 148

don’t want to join the rat race and make money, who want to do something more meaningful with their lives.” It is as though Taiwan, having already known a degree of material prosperity, is now experiencing a countercultural moment. Certainly, Taiwanese like Patrick who have never lost their Chinese traditions seem to be embracing an ennobled sense of their identity and their role in the world. In that way, they are ahead of many Chinese, who, while savoring their newfound wealth, seem to be stuck in a version of the American 1950’s, with all the familiar traits of conspicuous consumption and conformity. The world is still likely to prefer China over Taiwan. The island is fated to be thought of in relation to its neighbor. But the Taiwanese themselves seem undeterred from their pursuit of a separate identity. And when after leaving the island I thought of it, the image that came most readily to mind was of Taipei 101. Despite its beauty, the building had initially seemed pointlessly tall in an otherwise ﬂat and sprawling city. But I now realized that it not only reﬂected Taiwan’s wealth and modernity; it also proclaimed the dignity of an isolated people, and their determination not to be forgotten. ✚ Pankaj Mishra’s most recent book is Temptations of the West: How to Be Modern in India, Pakistan, Tibet and Beyond.

GUIDE TO TAIPEI cuisine. No. 116 Anhe Rd., Sec. 1; 886-2/2700-0009; aoba.com.tw; set menu for two NT$1,800. Barcode Known for its handsome bartenders, groovy interiors and delicious cocktails. 5th ﬂoor, 22 Songshou Rd.; 8862/2725-3520; cocktails for two NT$607. Bolero Established in 1934, Taipei’s ﬁrst Western-style restaurant. 308 Minsheng West Rd.; 886-2/2559-1251; dinner for two NT$1,800. C’est Bon Despite its name, this tiny, ultra-modern eatery serves innovative Asian-inspired fare by chef Chuang Yue-jiau, an ardent locovore. No. 23, Lane 33, Zhongshan North Rd., Sec. 1; 886-2/2531-6408; cestbon.com. tw; set menus from NT$2,200 per person.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND Most of the region’s major carriers ﬂy to Taipei, with China Airlines (www.china-airlines. com) and EVA Air (evaair.com) both offering extensive services to the capital. The airport is about an hour from central Taipei; metered taxis cost around NT$1,200, while the express bus costs around NT$135. The subway system (known as the Metro) is the best way to get around Taipei (fares start at NT$20). Addresses can be complicated and few taxi drivers speak English, though they are as helpful as can be; get your concierge to write addresses down in Chinese. WHERE TO STAY Grand Hyatt Taipei Five-star living right next door to Taipei 101. 2 Songshou Rd.; 8862/2720-1234; taipei.grand.hyatt. com; doubles from NT$8,640. Shangri-La’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel Panoramic views, and a rooftop pool in the city’s heart. 201 Dunhua South Rd., Sec. 2; 866-2/565-5050 or 886-2/2378-8888; shangri-la. com; doubles from NT$11,900.

The Tango Hotel Xinyi A sleek hotel with spacious, well-appointed rooms. 297 Zhongxiao East Rd., Sec. 5; 8862/2528-8000; tango-hotels.com; doubles from NT$6,000. GREAT VALUE

United Hotel Minimalist chic in one of the city’s poshest neighborhoods. 200 Guangfu South Rd.; 886-2/27731515; unitedhotel.com.tw; doubles from NT$7,400. GREAT VALUE

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Taipei’s night markets are a must for any foodie. Shilin Night Market (Shilin Metro station) is the city’s most famous, though Shida Night Market (Taipower Building Metro station) is less crazed and offers everything from Cantonese dim sum to Yunnanese noodles. During the day, Taipei 101’s basement level food court is worth a graze. Look out for douhua, a sweetened tofu dessert served with peanuts and other toppings, and niurou juan bing, a pancake stuffed with beef and scallions. AoBa Low lighting, wood ﬂoors and red velvet banquettes provide an elegant setting for traditional and nouvelle Taiwanese

Chili House Outstanding Sichuanese cuisine. Be sure to order the wontons in chili oil, the dry-fried green beans and the stir-fried cabbage with pork, served with shaobing, a sesameseed bread. 250–3 Zhongxiao East Rd., Sec. 4; 886-2/27216088; just-hot.com; dinner for two NT$1,200. Din Tai Fung The original — and best — outlet of the legendary dumpling chain best known for its xiaolongbao. 194 Xinyi Rd., Sec. 2 (near Yongkang Street); 886-2/2321-8928; dintaifung. com.tw; lunch for two NT$740. Gongfu Lanzhou La Mian A bowl of beef noodles, preferably with plenty of tendon, is the quintessential Taipei meal. This no-frills eatery in the main train station’s food court lists several versions, including one generously heaped with meltingly tender tendon. There’s also a corner in the food court entirely given over to beef noodles. Breeze Center, 2nd ﬂoor, Taipei Railway Station, 3 Beiping West Rd.; 886-2/6632-8999; breezecenter.com/bts-1.htm. Shin Yeh Table The latest offering from a Taipei-based chain focused on Taiwanese food, this trendy eatery serves local dishes such as omelette with salted radish and gua bao, braised fatty pork stuffed into a steamed bun. Look out for the drinking vine-

gars. 2nd ﬂoor, No. 201, Zhongxiao East Rd., Sec. 4; 8862/2778-8712; shinyeh.com.tw; dinner for two NT1,200. Wistaria No. 1, Lane 16, Xinsheng South Rd., Sec. 3; 8862/2363-7375; tea for two with snacks NT$607. Yong He Dou Jiang Da Wong A classic breakfast spot. 102 Fuxing South Rd., Sec. 2; 8862/2703-5051; breakfast for two NT$100. WHERE TO SHOP Eslite Xinyi The ﬂagship store for a local book chain also sells gourmet chocolates, French fashion, music, funky stationery, electronic goods and Japanese knickknacks. 11 Songgao Rd.; 886-2/8789-3388. Jamei Chen-Dialogue Organic styles by one of Taiwan’s top designers, in a softly lit setting that also doubles as a teahouse. No. 1–1, Lane 20, Zhongshan North Rd., Sec. 2; 886-2/25630568; jamei-chen.com. Undercover Avant-garde styles by Japanese fashion designer Jun Takahashi. There’s also a café serving cocktails by Barcode. No. 40, Lane 181, Zhongxiao East Rd., Sec. 4; 8862/2775-3669. WHAT TO SEE AND DO Longshan Temple 211 Guangzhou St.; 886-2/23025162. Maokong cable car Bird’s eye views and teahouses at the end of the line. Take the Muzha Metro line to Taipei Zoo; NT$50 to Maokong terminal station. National Palace Museum 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2; 8862/2881-2021; npm.gov.tw. The Red House Theater 10 Chengdu Rd.; 886-2/2311-9380. Snake Alley (Called Huaxi jie in Mandarin.) Longshan Temple Metro station. Spot An arthouse movie theater, café and cinephile bookstore in the old U.S. ambassador’s residence. 18 Zhongshan North Rd., Sec. 2; 886-2/25117786; spot.org.tw. Taipei 101 45 Shifu Rd.; 8862/8101-8934; taipei-101.com.tw. —JENNIFER CHEN

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On a boat ride to the nearby town of Porto Seguro. Top by Theory; bikini, Ralph Lauren Blue Label. Opposite: Praia dos Nativos, one of the beaches at the village of Trancoso, on Brazilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Discovery Coast.

take me to

Trancoso

FA S H I O N D I R E C T O R : M I M I L O M B A R D O ; A S S O C I AT E FA S H I O N E D I T O R : C A T H E R I N E C R A T E ; M O D E L : I N G R I D K E L LY/ E L I T E B R A Z I L

In coastal Brazil, near a village green lined with brightly painted cottages, Peter Jon Lindberg revels in coconut juice and caipirinhas, daily sun and nightly capoeria, and everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-a-ďŹ sherman fashion. Photographed by Anders Overgaard

The first time I arrived in Trancoso, with my wife and three friends, we took the wrong road. Actually, it was sort of the right road, but it seemed entirely wrong at the time. Piloting our rental car through the dimming twilight, we turned off the highway at a sign marked TRANCOSO, whereupon the asphalt gave way to a rough dirt track. Whereupon a chunk of our muffler fell off. Whereupon it started to rain. Violently. Tracing the contours of a steep ravine, the road became a mud-slicked luge run, interrupted by potholes that could swallow a Volkswagen. Thick streams of red clay cascaded down the hill. For a moment we thought we’d mistaken a riverbed for the road, except that every so often we’d pass someone pushing a bicycle along the shoulder. “Trancoso?” we shouted over the roar of our engine. “Sim, sim,” they all replied, grinning and pointing dead ahead. “I guess this is why Naomi Campbell takes the helicopter,” our friend Laura said between bumps. After 45 minutes of sloshing through a deluge of mud, at one point crossing a gully on a bridge of two-by-fours, then making a final wheel-spinning push uphill, we emerged, pioneer-like, in a cliff-top village of single-story houses fringed with tamarind and cashew trees. The rain had finally stopped, and paper lanterns hanging from the branches were now being set alight. On the town green—which was just that, 2 hectares of unkempt grass—a few dozen people were out for an evening stroll, sharing the green with three lazily grazing horses. “Jesus,” Alan murmured. “We found Brigadoon.” Despite the complete absence of signage, we managed to find our hotel (there are only a few proper streets), where we recounted our misadventure to the desk clerk. “So,” she replied. “Why didn’t you take the paved road?” The inland highway we’d turned off would have taken us straight into Trancoso. It was completed in 2000, but many residents, presumably with no mufflers to lose, prefer the old coastal route, car-gulping crevasses and all. Which gives you an idea of what kind of place Trancoso is, and what sort of people wind up here. “Trancoso is where rich people from São Paulo go to pretend they’re poor,” jokes Eduardo Garcia, a painter from Rio de Janeiro. He’s right: in the past few years this historic

Bahian village has become a retreat for wealthy Paulistas, who find in Trancoso’s simple rusticity a bizarro inversion of their own fashion-mad metropolis—a sort of antediluvian Rua Oscar Freire, an H.Stern diamond in the rough. But that’s not why you want to go. You want to go to Trancoso because it is one of the strangest and most singularly beautiful places in Brazil. We fell hard for the town on that first visit, and ever since have found it impossible to shake from our heads, like some disturbingly vivid dream: Were we all on drugs? Did it really look like that? Last fall I returned to Trancoso—via the dirt road, of course—to find it all magically and improbably intact. Nineteen kilometers north of here, near Porto Seguro, Pedro Álvares Cabral’s fleet came ashore in April 1500, marking Europe’s first encounter with Brazil. Today this portion of Bahia is known as the Costa do Descobrimento, or Discovery Coast. (Given the preponderance of fio dental—dental floss—bikinis, Uncovery Coast might be more apt.) Along the shore runs an epic stretch of golden beach, much of it backed by nothing more than coconut palms, dendê trees and towering red-clay cliffs. Flying the length of the Discovery Coast in a helicopter takes 18 minutes; driving the same distance can take four hours, on unsealed roads that meander around tidal rivers, mangrove swamps, papaya plantations and vast nature preserves. The coast has been rediscovered again and again since Cabral’s time. Porto Seguro is now a Brazilian spring-break bastion, as its main drag, Passarela do Álcool (Catwalk of Alcohol), attests. Nearby Arraial d’Ajuda is a popular resort town. Tucked off the road to Trancoso is the luxury residential development Terravista, home to Brazil’s best golf course and a Club Med. Amid these familiar holiday magnets, Trancoso has always stood apart. Electricity came only in 1982, the first public school a few years later. For most of its existence—from its founding by Jesuits in the 16th century to its embrace as a hippie Eden in the 1970’s—the village was as primitive as it gets. Until quite recently, barter, not cash, was the preferred means of exchange. According to legend, a large swath of one of the town’s beaches, Praia dos Nativos, was sold to a » Small Is Beautiful Opposite, clockwise from top left: A cottage turned shop on the Quadrado, Trancoso’s town square; local resident Serge; the cliff-edge 16th-century church São João Batista; pausing at the hotel Uxua Casa. Cover-up by Alberta Ferretti; bikini, Lisa Curran; sandals, Casadei.

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Praia dos Coqueiros, a short walk from the Quadrado. Opposite, from left: Shrimp curry at Ponta do Camãrao; brunch at Estrela d’Água. Dress by Thakoon for Target.

According to legend, a large swath of the beach was sold to a Brazilian playboy for a transistor radio and a set of dentures

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wily Brazilian playboy in exchange for a transistor radio and a set of dentures. The town is as remarkable for what it lacks (stoplights and well-functioning ATM’s) as it is for what it has (that stunning beach). But it is the Quadrado—the grassy square at the heart of the village—that makes Trancoso unique. At one end stands the chalk-white Igreja de São João Batista, the secondoldest church in Brazil, built by Portuguese settlers in 1586. Its defiantly plain façade—broken by a door, a window and a wooden cross—is a fitting image for this place of uncomplicated pleasures. Behind the church, a 366-meter cliff provides a dramatic mirante (vista) of kilometers of beach and the translucent Atlantic. The Quadrado itself is used for impromptu barefoot football games, though the players have to contend with the odd horse at half-field. Sixty squat houses, painted in brilliant hues from lime-green to lavender, frame the square. In accordance with local laws, each is built from mud and clay, with plank doors, shuttered windows and a palm-frond roof. Traditionally, none of the houses had numbers—locals knew them simply as “the pink one” or “the orange one.” Now most have been converted into workshops, boutiques and restaurants whose tables spill out onto the green, under the shade of gnarled trees laden with mangoes and almonds and jackfruit.

My friends and I could never decide which was more stirring: the view of the Quadrado at night, illuminated by lanterns and moonlight and echoing with bossa nova and clinking glasses; or the same sight at midday, when the sun turns the rainbow façades to neon and the bushes buzz with hummingbirds (beija-flor, or “flower-kissers,” to Brazilians). In the heat of the afternoon, when most visitors are down at the beach, many of the shops are closed, leaving the Quadrado to the horses, the hippies who lay out handmade jewelry on blankets on the lawn, and Raimundo the coconut vendor, who sets up beside the church. With his machete he’ll slice off the top of the fruit, then pour the sweet juice through ice and back into the coconut for you to drink. When the sun starts to descend, the beachgoers trickle back and the shops and restaurants throw open their wooden shutters. (Hours of operation are officially 4 P.M. to midnight, but depend on the proprietors’ moods, which are predictably unpredictable.) For three weeks in late December and early January, São Paulo society descends on the Quadrado, transforming the village into one big holiday bacchanal. (It helps that Christmas and New Year’s usher in Brazilian summer.) Lines for restaurants snake around the corner and parking requires some patience—this in a town where few locals own cars. » 155

Then, just as suddenly, influx turns exodus. For the rest » of the year, Trancoso can seem all but deserted. Weekenders and honeymooners pass through during the long off-season, but not many. When we visited in March the hotels were only a quarter full, and when I returned last fall I was one of maybe 10 foreigners in town. In the curious ebb and flow of Trancoso, one month it’s um-cha-um-cha beats at a jam-packed beach bar, and the next it’s the gentle chirrup-chirrup of lizards on an empty Quadrado. At quieter times like those, one wonders what it must have been like a generation ago. Rhapsodies about hippie-dropout meccas make me skeptical; one dude’s far-out fantasy is another’s dysfunctional cesspool. Still, imagine Trancoso in the early 1970’s, when the first non-natives—hippies and other urban refugees from Brazil and elsewhere—stumbled upon this remote Pataxó Indian village, where money was fish and fish were plentiful. The newcomers were called biribandos, a Pataxó term for “outsiders.” By most accounts, they fit in well with the villagers—even helping to restore the town church, which had languished in disrepair. Many original biribandos remain here, and are known mainly by their first names: Lia, Calé, Leila, Calá. A new generation of hippies manqué has followed in their footsteps: guys in untrimmed beards pushing strollers around the square, sun-drenched women with middle parts and beaded bikinis, teenage longhairs noodling on the berimbau or grooving on the cuíca, the Bahian percussion instrument that emits a squeak like a puppy whose tail was just stepped on. One can always make out the tang of ganja smoke in the breezes wafting across the Quadrado. This may explain why one biribando is collecting insect wings to build a spaceship. After the hippies came other free spirits: painters, sculptors, dancers, musicians. Actress Sonia Braga visited frequently in the 1980’s, as did the tropicália singer Gal Costa. Her former summer house is now a Relais & Châteaux resort, Pousada Estrela d’Água (with the beach’s best bar). Elba Ramalho, the high priestess of forró music, owned a club called Bar Bossa, where she often took the stage. Since the turn of the millennium, another breed of biribando has arrived, landing private jets at the Terravista airstrip and flying choppers into town. The new wave uses not fish or dentures but actual money—a lot of it—to scoop up beachfront villas and rustic pieds-à-terre. Naomi, Eddie Vedder and Gisele have joined the promenade. Sig Bergamin, a Brazilian designer with an international clientele, and Olivier

Baussan, founder of L’Occitane, both own property nearby. Like Goa and Ibiza before it, Trancoso would seem to be at the tipping point between high freak and high fashion, hippies and hipsters. Yet despite recent incursions, Trancoso is curiously glamour-resistant—high-end shops are deadempty and besides, nobody wears heels on the Quadrado. Here the dominant pretension is the lack thereof. “Sometimes it’s hard to distinguish the rich from the nonrich,” notes André, a Paulista who moved here in 2006. “Back home they shop at Daslu [the swank São Paulo department store], but when they come to Trancoso they all dress like fishermen.” Ostentation just won’t cut it here. Two years ago a nightclub opened near the Quadrado, complete with a velvet rope and goons holding clipboards. Suffice it to say this didn’t go over well. “Everyone in line is wearing sandals, and here’s this huge guy in a tie saying, ‘Not on the list!’ ” André recalls with a laugh. The club closed within months. From the first morning of that first visit, our crew fell into an easy routine taking us between the beach and the Quadrado. Trancoso’s languorous rhythms nudge travelers to adjust their goals accordingly. Our daily activities roster: (1) count bindi marks; (2) count plastic surgery marks; (3) frolic in the surf at Estrela d’Água and work up an appetite for ceviche and grilled octopus; (4) walk up the hill and buy another coconut from Raimundo; (5) see how off-tempo the hippie drumming combo on the Quadrado gets the more the players smoke; (6) marvel at Professor Diney’s hyperathletic capoeira troupe and wish we had abs; (7) forget about abs and order more passion-fruit caipirinhas; (8) look at that moon; (9) look at those stars; (10) look for more Havaianas. The Havaianas became an obsession. We had 14 orders for Brazil’s beloved flip-flops from back home. The farther we strayed from the Quadrado, the more the prices dropped, until we found the Supermercado Nogueira, in Trancoso’s dusty commercial ghetto. Here was the mother lode: among the diapers and canned hearts of palm we found dozens of Havaianas at only US$6 a pair (a fourth of the cost on the Quadrado). We schemed to start up our own sandal-importing business, with a sideline in hearts of palm. One day we felt ambitious and resolved to do some exploring out of town. Various sources had told us about a gorgeous stretch of sand called Praia do Espelho (Mirror Beach) and a tiny beachfront restaurant called Sylvinha’s. What they didn’t tell us, at least not adamantly enough, was that getting there Cool Coast Opposite: A bedroom at Ponta de Camarao, about 32 kilometers from Trancoso.

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Since the turn of the millennium, another breed of newcomer has arrived, landing private jets at the airstrip and ďŹ&#x201A;ying choppers into town

Drinks at Uxua Casa. Dress by Alberta Ferretti; swimsuit, Jessia Allen. Opposite, from left: Poolside at Uxua Casa; zouk dancers at the Oรกsis Bar, in Porto Seguro, up the coast from Trancoso.

could nearly ruin you. The drive to » Espelho made the dirt road into Trancoso seem like a monorail. First we crossed a vast prairie: the Vale dos Búfalos. All this land, and the herd of charcoal-gray buffalo grazing on it, is owned by one man. That man is crazy to be living out there. Soon, the road devolves into a pockmarked torture course. For an hour we shuddered along in second gear. Then, rounding one hairpin turn, we passed a 20-centimeter tarantula crossing the road. At that point we just ﬂoored it. Any meal would taste good after such a journey. But if ever there was a lunch worth enduring 29 kilometers of involuntary chiropractic, Sylvinha’s was it. Maria Sylvia Esteves Calazans Luz came from São Paulo to Trancoso in 1974 at the age of 32. She was soon cooking elaborate meals for guests at her cottage on the Praia do Espelho. Today her “restaurant”—two picnic tables on a veranda overlooking the sea—is open only for lunch, and only by reservation. By the time our stomachs settled from the drive, we were famished. Out came Sylvinha’s tantalizing creations, a tropical fusion of Bahian, Indian and Southeast Asian cuisines: peixe olho de boi, sea bass delicately stewed in orange-soy broth; vegetables stir-fried with ﬁsh sauce, honey and ginger; tart mango and passion-fruit chutneys. Assisting in the kitchen was Sylvinha’s little goddaughter, Carlota, who carried out cups of cinnamon-laced coffee before wandering off to climb

a cashew tree. We, meanwhile, took turns napping in the hammock on the lawn, lulled by Caetano Veloso songs and a soft ocean breeze. Espelho is one of Bahia’s loveliest beaches, a vivid collage of blue water, creamy yellow sand, red cliffs and lush green forest. Driftwood and coconuts wash up with the tide. Rivers and streams emerge from nowhere to snake into the sea. Strolling for kilometers that afternoon we encountered only two other souls, and hardly any visible development besides Sylvinha’s cottage and a few neighboring beach shacks. And so when I returned to Espelho by myself last October, it was with some trepidation: Would it be the same? What if a water park had sprung up on the shore? Or a Sandals resort? I’d scored a booking at Sylvinha’s for lunch, but for all I knew her cottage had become a condo, and the road to Espelho a four-lane expressway. Yet the road was as awful as ever—arguably even worse. As I rounded that ﬁnal hairpin turn and bounced down the pitted track to the coast, it was clear my anxieties had been misplaced. The beach was empty but for the husks of coconuts. Sylvinha’s veranda still looked like a hippie wonderland, festooned with turquoise pillows and seashell art. Nothing had changed. Except Carlota was perched a few branches higher in her cashew tree. ✚ Peter Jon Lindberg is editor-at-large for T+L (U.S.). 159

GUIDE TO TRANCOSO AND BRAZIL’S DISCOVERY COAST

WHERE TO STAY TRANCOSO Pousada Estrela d’Água Songbird Gal Costa’s vacation house — designed by architect Ricardo Salem — became a hotel in 1998. Now a member of Relais & Châteaux, the 28-room beachfront resort retains a winningly informal vibe and friendly service. The tiered swimming pool and ﬁne beach

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bar are reason enough to stay here, but the Quadrado is a long walk uphill; you may want to take taxis into town. Estrada do Arraial, Trancoso; 55-73/36681030; estreladagua.com.br; suites from BRL760 (US$340). Pousada Etnia Etnia means “ethnicity,” and the stylish rooms (Moroccan, Goan, Japanese, African tribal) in this eight-villa resort underline the theme. Excellent breakfasts are served beside the swimming pool. 25 Av. Principal, Trancoso; 55-73/3668-1137; etniabrasil.com. br; villas from BRL583. GREAT VALUE

Uxua Casa Six of the nine guest cottages at this brand-new boutique hotel are scattered around a garden shaded by towering jackfruit trees; the three best rooms face the square. (Yes, one of those candycolored façades can be yours.) Warm, rustic elements meet sleek Midcentury Brazilian furniture and fully outﬁtted kitchens. Take breakfast on your veranda or by the pool, ﬂop into a hammock, and play out your biribando fantasy. On the Quadrado, Trancoso; 55-73/ 3668-2166; uxua.com.br; doubles from BRL640. BEYOND TRANCOSO Ponta do Camarão Flávio Marelim, a former restaurateur from Rio, and Nana Salles, a fashion-business veteran, found this quiet stretch of coastline an hour south of Trancoso in 2000 and built their dream house here. Two years later they began

Tauana Portuguese architect Ana Catarina designed her own remote resort three hours south of Trancoso near a village that was without electricity until two years ago. The 23-hectare coconut plantation had mostly mangroves and empty farmland as neighbors. “I felt uncomfortable building here,” Catarina says, “so I tried to make the architecture blend into the landscape.” She has planted 30,000 shrubs and trees to offset her development. Catarina manages the hotel herself — nine freestanding bungalows with ocean views — and grows the produce on-site. Guests can take guided wildlife tours, visit the Barra Velha Indian Reserve or take a boat to the coral reef for snorkeling and diving. Open from July to May. Fazenda Riacho Grande, Corumbau; 55-73/3668-5172; tauana.com;

bungalows from BRL1,300, including meals. WHERE TO EAT Bar da Costa After a lunch of fresh ceviche at this beachside hotel bar, take to the daybeds overlooking the surf. In the main dining room try a subtle moqueca, paired with piquant pirão (a sauce of tomato, puréed fish, garlic and olive oil). Pousada Estrela d’Água, Estrada do Arraial, Trancoso; 55-73/36681030; lunch for two BRL163. Capim Santo This Quadrado fixture has French doors, paddle fans and a vine-draped courtyard. Chef Sandra Marques — a São Paulo émigré — excels at fish dishes like salmon in leek sauce with black rice. On the Quadrado, Trancoso; 55-73/36681122; dinner for two BRL87. El Gordo With blinding-white furniture and a turquoise pool, this chic boîte is straight out of South Beach, Miami. The bar serves 50-plus varieties of cachaça, and the seafoodfocused menu is reliable — but it’s the panoramic clifftop views you come for. On the Quadrado, Trancoso; 55-73/3668-1193; dinner for two BRL185. Sylvinha’s Restaurante Praia do Espelho; 55-73/9985-4157 (reservations essential); lunch for two BRL115. WHERE TO SHOP Cerâmica Calazans João Calazans was an original Trancoso biribando. His ceramics, shown at his studio on the Quadrado, are among the best in town. Trancoso; 55-73/3668-1112; ceramicatrancoso.com.br. Etnia Boutique Run by the Pousada Etnia, this shop has Osklen bikinis and swim trunks; colorful tops and dresses from Rio’s Cantão label; and a good selection of hats and handbags. On the Quadrado, Trancoso; 5573/3668-1669; etniabrasil.com.br.

Sylvia Luz of Sylvinha’s Restaurante and her goddaughter Carlotta, on Praia do Espelho.

Marcenaria Trancoso This woodwork and furniture shop, founded by Roberto Maya, will arrange for shipping (and has an even broader selection online). On the Quadrado, Trancoso; 55-73/3668-1023; marcenariatrancoso.com.br.

M A P BY M A R I A E B B E TS

GETTING THERE AND AROUND From Southeast Asia, it’s best to fly to Miami and then on to Brazil. Fly to São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, or, better yet, Salvador (American Airlines has daily service from Miami), then on to Porto Seguro. Be advised: Trancoso has few functioning ATM’s, so bring all the Brazilian cash you’ll need or withdraw it at the airport on your way in. Rent a car at the airport — it’s an hour to Trancoso — or hire a driver (BRL250) through Mangue Alto Turismo (55-73/9147-3882; manguealto.com.br). Owner Henrique Costa speaks fluent English and knows the region well. Consider booking your entire trip — domestic flights, ground transport and lodgings — with São Paulo–based travel outfitter Matueté (1-866/7095952 or 55-11/3071-4515; matuete.com). Cofounder Bobby Betenson is featured on T+L’s 2008 A-List. Safety note: Women should be careful about walking alone on the beach or away from town.

taking paying guests at two bungalows they designed. Word spread beyond Brazil; reservation requests poured in. One smitten billionaire booked the entire property for 2.5 years. After he left last summer the resort reopened with two more rooms. Both owners are exuberant hosts, and Marelim is an exceptional cook. Most of the produce — including papaya and cashews — is organically grown here, and the seafood is caught just offshore. There’s no phone, mobile phone, Internet, or satellite-TV service, and nothing to do after dinner but lie in a hammock and watch the moon. Praia da Ponta de Camarão, Caraíva; 55-73/9979-6269; ﬂanana@vol.com.br; bungalows from BRL1,600, including meals.

Seoul is a megacity with endless incongruities. Past and present, tradition and modernity, have not merely collided here, they have caused a ﬁssion reaction.

A view of the Baltic Sea from Pädaste Manor’s spa deck.

A local couple at a ﬁsherman’s hut on Trancoso’s Praia dos Nativos.

(My Favorite Place)

Renowned yoga instructor Rodney Yee tells DANI SHAPIRO how hatha poses and perfect moments meet in the heart of Bali and not on its beaches FIRST WENT TO UBUD in 1993 at the request of a friend who had the idea of starting a retreat there; she had asked me to come teach yoga. I was so surprised by the graciousness of the people. They’re completely open to foreigners. In some sense, in Bali there are no foreigners. It’s one of the most spiritually alive places in the world. Balinese culture is not focused on the beaches, where most tourists go. The Hindus believe that the mountains are holy, so they gravitate inland. Ubud is at the heart of the island—in the center. The place has this hippie feel to it; it’s where many of the expats live. Different small villages on the island are known for their

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stone or wood carving, mask making, silverand goldsmithing—and a lot of these craftspeople come to Ubud. You only have to walk the streets to see them. I’ve been back to teach more than a dozen times. Once, I was passing through a ﬁeld and came upon a wedding ceremony, and suddenly I was part of it. You can’t go seeking out these experiences. They happen on auspicious days, and spontaneously. But as long as you have a traditional sash or sarong and headpiece, you’re welcome to participate. The Balinese emphasis on balance is very much in harmony with my practice of yoga. I’m not just living in my head—but in my feet, my hands, my heart. ✚

JU N E 2 0 0 9| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E S E A . C O M

YEE’S BALI “A local couple runs the humble Rumah Roda Homestay [rumahroda. com]. You feel completely dropped into nature.” That even includes organic vegetables from the garden used in traditional Balinese cooking.

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“Balinese Barong and Rangda dance performances take place at Pura Taman Saraswati [Ubud Water Palace]. It’s the hub of Ubud, and surrounded by crafts stalls.” Performances on Thursdays at 7:30 P.M.

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“The Sayan Valley, along the Ayung River, is one of the island’s most stunningly beautiful places — perfect for a quiet walk.”

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INDONESIA

Yoga guru Rodney Yee. Right: Rice growing in ﬁelds near Ubud in Bali.