June 2010 by Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

Privilege knows no boundaries.

Carried by the Elite, the world over.

By invitation only. For expression of interest, please call Singapore: + (65) 6295 6293 Hong Kong: + (852) 2277 2233 Thailand: + (66) 2273 5445

EXCLUSIVELY FOR AMERICAN EXPRESS® PLATINUM CARDMEMBERS

Small Luxury Hotels of the World™ invites American Express Platinum Cardmembers to enjoy EXCLUSIVE BENEFITS and a COMPLIMENTARY THIRD NIGHT. The Small Luxury Hotels of the World brand is an unrivalled portfolio of some of the world’s ﬁnest small independent hotels. Comprising over 500 hotels in more than 70 countries, the diversity of the individual hotels, and the experiences that they offer, is exceptional. YEAR-ROUND EXCLUSIVE BENEFITS for Platinum Cardmembers at all participating SLH hotels include: • Room upgrade upon check-in (subject to availability) • Early check-in at 12pm • Late check-out at 4pm • Daily continental breakfast for two

In addition, Platinum Cardmembers can enjoy a THREE-FORTWO offer from now till 31 December 2010. Simply book three consecutive nights at any participating SLH hotels to enjoy a COMPLIMENTARY THIRD NIGHT accommodation. To make a booking or for more information, please contact The Platinum Card® Service.

Terms and conditions apply. In order to receive the Small Luxury Hotels of the World beneﬁts or to be eligible for the THREE-FOR-TWO offer, reservations must be made at participating Small Luxury Hotels of the World hotels through The Platinum Card® Service and payment must be made using The Platinum Card® in the Platinum Cardmember’s name. Room upgrade are subject to availability at check-in. ‘Three-for-Two’ offer cannot be combined with any other promotions. Complimentary stay must be taken as three consecutive nights. Offer valid for stays until December 31, 2010.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE ABOVE EXCLUSIVE OFFERS OR TO MAKE A BOOKING, CALL THE PLATINUM CARD® SERVICE: SINGAPORE: +(65) 6392 1177 (option 1) HONG KONG: +(852) 2277 2233 THAILAND: +(66) 2273 5599

(Destinations)06.10 Tuscany 132 Kyoto 54

Marrakesh 124

Luang Prabang 69 Delhi 38 Singapore 114

World Weather This Month -40oF -20oF -40oC

0 oF

20oF

-25oC

-10oC

40oF 0 oC

5oC

50oF

65oF

10oC

15oC

75oF 20oC

90oF 30oC

40o+C

SOUTHEAST ASIA Bangkok 30, 34, 59 Hanoi 30, 52 Hong Kong 30, 48 Jakarta 30 Kuala Lumpur 29 Luang Prabang 69 Manila 48

Samui 30 Singapore 114 Taipei 48 Thailand 34 ASIA China 34, 64 India 34, 38

Kyoto 54 Seoul 42

Tuscany 132 Paris 59, 142

AUSTRALIA Melbourne 34

AFRICA Marrakesh 124

EUROPE Liguria 79

THE AMERICAS U.S. 59

Currency Converter Singapore Hong Kong Thailand Indonesia Malaysia Vietnam Macau Philippines Burma Cambodia Brunei Laos US ($1)

(SGD)

(HKD)

(BT)

(RP)

1.38

7.78

32.38

9,090

(RM)

3.20

(VND)

(MOP)

(P)

18,980

8.01

44.81

(MMK)

(KHR)

(BND)

(LAK)

6.41

4,175

1.38

8,265

Source: www.xe.com (exchange rates at press time).

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

M A P BY E T H A N CO R N E L L

Issue Index

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M | V O L 0 4 | I S S U E 0 6

(Contents)06.10

113-132 Features 114 Singapore, Naturally Far from the urban hustle of Orchard Road, yet close by in this easily navigable city, you’ll find a surprising number of outdoor pursuits to soothe your adventurous soul. By MELANIE LEE. Photographed by LAURYN ISHAK 8

124 Best of Marrakesh This North African city of medieval souks and winding streets is undergoing a dramatic transformation. Longtime resident RICHARD ALLEMAN opens his little black book. Photographed by JOHN KERNICK 132 Up at the Tuscan Villa It’s the ultimate Italian fantasy: staying amid vineyards and olive groves at a centuries-old estate with all the services of a top hotel.

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

CHRISTOPHER PETKANAS visits three properties that are setting new standards. Plus, five for less than €215 a night. Photographed by SIMON WATSON. GUIDE AND MAP 140 Special > 91 ● Travel+Leisure finds 45 of the most exciting new hotels in the world in our annual It List. From pioneering architecture to authentic regional experiences, these properties are reshaping their destinations.

C O U R T E SY O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L

>91 The penthouse-suite terrace at Mandarin Oriental, in Barcelona.

(Editor’s Note) 06.10 OUR YEARLY HOTELS ISSUE IS ALWAYS ONE OF MY FAVORITES. WHILE THE QUESTION OF WHAT MAKES A GOOD HOTEL REALLY GREAT IS OBVIOUSLY SUBJECTIVE , WE ALL LOVE TO SINK INTO THE LAP OF A posture-friendly bed with more than two pillows just for me—and there is no upper limit—is a must also, for those recuperative rests that follow daytime meetings and long, liquid dinners... This is all light hearted, of course, but for our next hotel issue, or even our next letters page, perhaps you can send in some of your weirdest and most wonderful experiences. As for this issue, we present T+L’s 2010 It List (page 91), the top 45 new hotels in the world. Eleven of them are in Asia, for which we should all be proud. I also love our deputy editor Chris Kucway’s humorous feature on odd concierge requests, “Answer Machines” (page 74), which reminds all of us, I hope, that to ask a concierge for a live lamb or chocolate body paint is all perfectly normal... Do enjoy this special issue, and remember: What makes a good hotel really great, in all honesty, are the memories you take home.—M A T T L E P P A R D FROM THE T+L SOUTHEAST ASIA TEAM:

As we went to press for this issue, the unrest in Bangkok has escalated. We hope that by the time you read this, it will be resolved. If not, we wish for a painless resolution in which Bangkok—and its citizens and businesses—recovers, heals and regains its strength over time.

TRAVEL + L EISURE EDITORS, WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHERS ARE THE INDUSTRY’S MOST RELIABLE SOURCES. WHILE ON ASSIGNMENT, THEY TRAVEL INCOGNITO WHENEVER POSSIBLE AND DO NOT TAKE PRESS TRIPS OR ACCEPT FREE TRAVEL OF ANY KIND. 12

JUNE

2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

TOM HOOPS

luxury on vacation when we travel, right? As for me, I do have my own idiosyncratic likes and dislikes, and I should really spell some of them out, with a small amount of my tongue fi rmly in my cheek. Master “control panels” in hotel rooms leave me regularly flummoxed, for example. However patiently the porter explains the different lights, dials, switches, sockets and buttons to me on arrival (which is never my best time anyway), I always seem to end up with one set of curtains I can’t draw, or cause to be drawn by some unseen electrical force, and a room light that remains stubbornly glowing throughout the night. I hate to confess it also, but I’ve never been able to make my MP3 player play through an in-room sound system properly, even after wrestling with it for hours and jamming it into various plugs, nor really mastered many hotel rooms’ aircon systems. Never mind; I survived. At the other end of the spectrum, any hotel with a built-in TV in front of a spacious bath or Jacuzzi will win my praise, along with a view that’s not a wall, a factory, a building site or simply another room full of nosy, noisy neighbors (I do love my peace and quiet).

BANGKOK + DIM SUM + ARCHITECTURE + NIGHTLIFE + BLOGS + ISLANDS + BOUTIQUES NOODLES + STYLE + WINE + SPAS + HONG KONG + DESIGN + GALLERIES + SINGAPORE + HUA HIN + DRIVING + ONLINE BOOKING + LAKSA + FASHION + REVIEWS + GOLF + KHAO SOI BEER + DIVING + CLUBBING + HOT DEALS + TRAVEL NEWS + CRUISING + LAOS + BARS MUSIC + ART + ECOTOURISM + MALAYSIA + TREKKING + SAIGON + SHOPPING + DEALS + BANGKOK

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REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS / PHOTOGRAPHERS Jennifer Chen (editor-at-large), Jen Lin-Liu, Robyn Eckhardt, Naomi Lindt, Adam Skolnick, Cedric Arnold, Darren Soh, Lauryn Ishak, Nat Prakobsantisuk, Christopher Wise, Brent Madison, Tom Hoops

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TRAVEL+LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA VOL. 4, ISSUE 6 Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2851-6963; Fax: +852 2851-1933; under license from American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Produced and distributed by Media Transasia Thailand Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoeynue, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: +66 2 204-2370. Printed by Comform Co., Ltd. (+66 2 368-2942–7). Color separation by Classic Scan Co., Ltd. (+66 2 291-7575). While the editors do their utmost to verify information published, they do not accept responsibility for its absolute accuracy.

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(Contributors) 06.10 MELANIE LEE | WRITER THE ASSIGNMENT Wrote this month’s look at Singapore beyond the shopping malls (“Singapore, Naturally,” page 114). FAVORITE OUTDOOR ACTIVITY IN SINGAPORE Sitting by the steps of the river with a couple of beers and good friends at night. THE CITY HAS NO… Spelunking! SINGAPORE IN THREE WORDS Full of surprises. MOST MEMORABLE OUTDOOR ADVENTURE Skiing in a snowstorm on Mount Buller, in Australia. PERFECT GLOBAL GETAWAY An African safari in a luxurious

canvas tent with a proper toilet. AARON JOEL SANTOS | PHOTOGRAPHER THE ASSIGNMENT Shot this month’s story on Hanoi (“Top Chef,” page 52). KITCHEN DUTY I worked in kitchens my whole life, mostly in New Orleans. Cooking is my secret super power. FAVE VIETNAMESE DISH Bun cha.

RICHARD ALLEMAN | WRITER THE ASSIGNMENT Reported on the “Best of Marrakesh” (page 124). MISCONCEPTION People think it’s scary and backward. In reality, it’s

friendly and worldly, and it has an interesting mix of traditional and 21stcentury values. DON’T LEAVE MOROCCO WITHOUT… Seeing the Badi Palace ruins. The haunting 16th-century palace was built by a sultan who died after it was constructed. BRING IT BACK A pair of faux-silver lanterns from Place des Ferblantiers, in Mellah, the Jewish quarter. BARTERING TIP It’s easy to get tricked into haggling for something you don’t even want. JOHN KERNICK | PHOTOGRAPHER THE ASSIGNMENT Shot the Marrakesh story (page 124). FAVORITE MOROCCAN NEIGHBORHOOD The old part of the medina—it’s about as close to being in a real medieval town as you are going to get. BEST MARRAKESH MEAL To be honest, the belly dancers were the most

memorable part of our dining experience—not to say that the food wasn’t good. HOTEL HIGHLIGHT The attention to detail at the Royal Mansour— the king of Morocco is an investor. TOP SOUVENIR A 1930’s photograph from Maison de la Photographie on Rue Ahal Fes, in Marrakesh. JEN LIN-LIU | WRITER THE ASSIGNMENT Wrote about Chinese fashion (“Red Stars Rising,” page 64). ON CHINESE DESIGNERS My favorite thing is they sell original threads for prices I can afford. IS MADE IN CHINA HIP? No, the world is overrun by mass-produced, poor quality clothing from China. THE MOST STYLISH THING YOU OWN IS... A versatile gray dress made by Liu Lu. It’s very fine cotton and knots around my neck. CHINA IN THREE COLORS Red (of

course), gray (for the walls in my hutong and those bad pollution days) and yellow (for the Forbidden City and those very bad pollution days). 16

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

L E F T T O R I G H T, F R O M T O P : L A U R Y N I S H A K ; C O U R T E S Y O F M E L A N I E L E E ; C O U R T E S Y O F A A R O N J O E L S A N T O S ; A A R O N J O E L S A N T O S ; J O H N K E R N I C K ; A N T H O N Y G A R C I A- R I O S ; D A R R E L TA U N T; J O H N K E R N I C K ; J A S P E R J A M E S ; C O U R T E SY O F J E N L I N - L I U

Grilled pork patties in a lime broth with rice noodles and a heaping plate of fresh herbs on the side. What’s not to love? COMFORT FOOD STAPLE I’m going with gumbo. WHEN IN HANOI... Ignore the touts and street hawkers. Don’t visit important monuments. Walk around. Have a cup of coffee with a ludicrous amount of condensed milk in it. Eat your way to happiness.

(Letters)06.10 LETTER OF THE MONTH getaway | t+l journal

Berlin, Two Ways

GERMANY

Is it possible to spend a long weekend in a European City (including hotel) for the cost of a leisurely lunch? ADAM SACHS accepts the challenge and hits the ground running to find out. Photographed by CHRISTIAN KERBER TWO GLASSES OF RIESLING SEKT T

¤18

VS. LUNCH AT MANUFAKTUM BROT & BUTTER

Long Lunch: The bill for writer’s Michelinstarred lunch.

¤16

Long Weekend: The price of lunch (¤484, including tip) determines the budget for three days in the German capital.

BOTTLE OF WHITE WINE

¤48 BOTTLE OF SPARKLING WATER

VS.

¤44

TWO ORDERS OF CURRYWURST MIT POMME FRITES, A BULLETEN CURRY, AND A BECK’S BEER AT CURRY 36

EIGHT-COURSE TASTING MENU FOR TWO

¤280

¤7

VS. THREE NIGHTS AT HOTEL MICHELBERGER ¤168 + DRINKS AND SNACKS ¤25 + DINNER AT FRAROSA ¤40 + SOUVENIRS ¤7 + ADMISSION FOR TWO TO JEWISH MUSEUM AND KW ART MUSEUM ¤26

BOTTLE OF RED WINE

VS.

D AV I E S + S TA R R

VS.

TWO BERLIN WELCOME CARDS

¤8

¤130

¤266

TWO-COURSE LUNCH AT THE MICHELIN TWO-STARRED FISCHERS FRITZ ¤55 + TWO-COURSE DINNER + DRINKS + CLUB ENTRANCE AT COOKIES CREAM ¤75 + ONE PACKAGE OF FAKE CIGARETTES ¤1

¤131 T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M | A P R I L

2 0 1 0

Getaway Costs

Great breakdown of a long weekend away in your April issue [“Berlin, two ways”] but you should really do this for a center in this part of the world. It’s always difficult to believe that a really posh meal can cost as much as three days of travel on a budget. This is even true around Southeast Asia and its string of lessexpensive countries. Of course, most major cities in the region have some very fine dining and if you’re ever in need of someone to splash out at a five-star restaurant, please give me a call. —CARMEN

LEE, SINGAPORE

Villa Blues It was wonderful to read your villa rental article [“T+L’s Guide to European Villa Rentals,” April 2010]. As a family of six we have enjoyed the private villa market for many years and always choose it as our first option, for space and privacy. In April, we visited Sri Lanka and chose the private villa market as our accommodation. Big mistake. We stayed at IF Villa in Galle and were disappointed. The villa was poorly maintained, unclean and even had squirrels nesting in the bedrooms. Based on our experience, Sri Lanka is not ready for private villa clientele. But we were thrilled with two boutique hotels we discovered. We headed to the Villa Bentota. With quality décor, spectacular service, excellent food, a steam train passing by, it really was magnificent. We finished the trip at the Tintagel in Colombo. Again the décor is a photographer’s dream, the food is superb and the service first class.— L E A N N E J U M A B H OY , S I N G A P O R E

Unknown Europe When I saw your special issue on Europe, I cringed slightly. There’s a wealth of travel opportunities around Asia, no? Then I read the authentic Europe story [“25 Undiscovered Villages,” April 2010] and realized I had never heard of any of these places. Now I’m thinking about visiting some of these obscure towns, though I do think I’ll give Hellnar a miss—you never know what’s going to happen in Iceland these days! — DAV I D

✉

T S U I , H O N G KO N G

E-MAIL T+L SEND YOUR LETTERS TO EDITOR @ TRAVELANDLEISURESEA.COM AND LET US KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS ON RECENT STORIES OR NEW PLACES TO VISIT. LETTERS CHOSEN MAY BE EDITED FOR CLARITY AND SPACE. THE LETTER OF THE MONTH RECEIVES A FREE ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION TO TRAVEL + LEISURE ( SOUTHEAST ASIA ONLY). READER OPINIONS EXPRESSED IN LETTERS DO NOT NECESSARILY REFLECT THOSE OF TRAVEL + LEISURE SOUTHEAST ASIA, MEDIA TRANSASIA LTD., OR AMERICAN EXPRESS PUBLISHING.

THE REALITY IS BETTER THAN THE DREAM. There is no end to the unique experiences you will enjoy and the memories you will create at The Ritz-Carlton. The specially prepared dinner for two overlooking city lights. The shopping itinerary personalized just for you. The thoughtfully customized museum tour. And whether you are exploring a new city or enjoying our resort destinations around the world, our Reconnect ® packages will enhance your stay even more with hotel and resort credits that you can use for a whole host of activities, such as spa, dining and shopping. More, in fact, than you could ever dream

ENJOY A

HOTEL OR R ESORT C REDIT

of. For reservations, please contact your travel professional,

With our Reconnect packages. ®

call The Ritz-Carlton or visit us at ritzcarlton.com/reconnect.

Call The Ritz-Carlton toll-free from: Indonesia 001 803 606 277 • Malaysia 00 800 241 33333 Singapore 011 800 241 33333 • Hong Kong 001 800 241 33333 • Nor ther n China 10 800 600 0666 Souther n China 10 800 260 0666 • Australia 0011 800 241 33333 • New Zealand 00 800 241 33333 Rates are valid per room/per night, based on single or double occupancy, exclusive of taxes, gratuities, fees and other charges; do not apply to groups; and cannot be combined with any other offer. Advanced reservations are required. Offer valid through December 31, 2010, subject to availability. Some hotels may require a weekend stay and/or a minimum length of stay. Credit may not be applied toward room rate, has no cash value and must be used during the dates of the reservation. ©2010 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.

(Best Deals) 06.10 DEAL OF THE MONTH

Summer Bliss package at the Putahracsa Hua Hin (66-32/531-470; putahracsa.com). three-night stay in a

Put some spice into your summer with these energizing getaways

Silksand room; daily

■ CHINA World Wonder Tour in Beijing package at the Aloft Beijing, Haidian (86-10/8889-8888; alofthotels.com). What’s Included A two-night stay in an Aloft Room; daily breakfast for two; cocktails for two; and a one-day tour to the Great Wall and Ming dynasty tombs with an English-speaking guide. Cost RMB 2,376, through July 31. Savings 25 percent.

■ SINGAPORE Linkcation 3D 2N package at the Link Hotel Singapore (65/6622-8585; linkhotel.com.sg). What’s Included A two-night stay in a Superior Room; daily buffet breakfast; free local calls; free Wi-Fi; parking space; two Universal Studios Singapore tickets with transfers; and 15 percent off à la carte dining. Cost From S$408, through June 30. Savings 26 percent.

of wine with tapas; a

■ HONG KONG Taste of The Mira package at The Mira (852/2368-1111; themirahotel.com) in Hong Kong. What’s Included An HK$300 daily dining allowance; free Wi-Fi; daily newspaper; free local calls; and late check-out until 3 P.M. Cost From HK$1,180 per night, through December 31. Savings Up to 40 percent.

■ THAILAND Spa Experience package at the Andara Resort & Villas (66-76/338-777; andaraphuket.com) in Phuket. What’s Included A stay in a one- or two-bedroom Residence Suite; welcome drinks; daily breakfast and fruit; free Wi-Fi; round-trip airport transfers; Andara Beach Club access; a daily one-hour spa massage; and late check-out until 4 P.M. Cost From Bt.10,500 per person per night (triple-sharing), three-night minimum, through October 31. Savings Up to 45 percent.

■ INDONESIA Club Delight package at the Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta (62-21/2993-8888; mandarinoriental.com). What’s Included Express check-in; a welcome spa bath; daily breakfast; complimentary mini-bar; Executive Lounge access; free local calls; daily pressing of two garments; evening cocktails; and free Wi-Fi. Cost From US$140 per night, through June 30. Savings 25 percent. 20

What’s Included A

■ VIETNAM Summer at the Bay package at Mango Bay (84903/382-207; mangobayphuquoc.com) on Phu Quoc Island. What’s Included A two-night stay in a Veranda Room; daily breakfast; and round-trip airport transfers. Cost US$89, through September 31. Savings 30 percent.

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

breakfast; a snack at the Sala Monsoon restaurant or one glass free room upgrade (upon availability); and late check-out until 4 P.M. Cost Bt11,998, through September 30. Savings 51 percent. At the Putahracsa Hua Hin.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L , J A K A R TA ; C O U R T E SY O F P U TA H R A C S A H U A H I N

Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta.

The Great Getaway Make your escape with up to 30% off

Conrad Maldives Rangali Island

Book your trips before 15 July and stay through 6 September 2010 at destinations in over 80 countries for up to 30% less. Best of all, these rates include breakfast. Start planning your getaway today. Visit hilton.com/APACgreatgetaway or call these numbers to book now Australia 1300 445 866 China 800 820 0600

Japan 0120 489852 Singapore 1800 737 1818

Subject to availability at participating hotels worldwide. Book between 10 May and 15 July 2010 and stay between 28 May and 6 September 2010. Full non-refundable payment required at time of booking. Must book at least seven (7) days in advance of arrival. Participating Hilton Grand Vacations hotels require a three (3) night stay and do not include breakfast. Participating Homewood Suites hotels require a three (3) night stay for Tuesday arrivals and a two (2) night stay for Wednesday arrivals. Discounts vary by hotel brand (Unless otherwise stated by hotel, 30% at Doubletree; 25% at Hilton; 20% at Hampton, Homewood Suites, Hilton Grand Vacations, Hilton Garden Inn, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts and Conrad Hotels & Resorts). Discount relates to the Best Available Bed and Breakfast Rate at Doubletree, Hilton and Hilton Garden Inn hotels. Discount relates to the Best Available Rate at Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts, Conrad Hotels & Resorts, Hampton, Homewood Suites and Hilton Grand Vacations hotels.Offer not valid at Embassy Suites hotels, except at a few hotels (20% related to its Best Available Rate). Other restrictions apply. Go to hilton.com/APACgreatgetaway for full details.

Prince P Pri Pr rin ince ce IIgor gor go

(Strategies) 06.10

At Your Service

Serviced properties have come far since the days of catering only to business travelers, but how do you know if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re right for you? T+L helps you pick and choose. By NAOMI LINDT Illustrated by WASINEE CHANTAKORN

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M

| JUNE 2010

Rooms Plus Above: Fraser Suites Sydney offers a room, and more, with a view. Below: Ascott Rafﬂes Place in Singapore.

apartments

ACK IN 1984, THE Ascott Singapore introduced Asia to the concept of extended stay meets five-star service when it opened on Scotts Road. Things have changed dramatically since then. As global operators like Ascott (the-ascott.com), Frasers (frasershospitality.com) and Oakwood (oakwood.com) have diversified their offerings to provide chic, comfortable lodgings to suit a wide variety of tastes and budgets, serviced properties have seen astronomic growth in cities like Bangkok and Hong Kong, with the next boom expected in China and India as multinational corporations expand in emerging markets. It’s not difficult to see why they’re becoming so popular: serviced apartments in today’s market are striking the ideal balance between the pampering of a hotel—think swimming pools, spas, and maid and laundry

JUNE 2010 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

services—and the comforts of home, with fully equipped kitchens, spacious living areas and seriously high-tech entertainment systems. Hoteliers like Hilton (hilton.com), Marriott (marriott.com) and Four Seasons (fourseasons.com) are in on the action, expanding their supply of executive apartments and residential villas in locales ranging from Mumbai and Jakarta to exotic getaways like Ko Samui and Hainan, allowing brand loyalists to find a home away from home. Although these stays have traditionally served the business community, leisure travelers are also reaping the benefits of homecooked meals and private chill-out areas while on the road. Properties with multiple bedrooms can be a great, economical choice for multigenerational trips, and can add that extra sense of privacy on a romantic escape. Budget-conscious travelers are joining their ranks, too: “We’re seeing a growing group

of independent and savvy travelers, especially in Asia-Pacific, who want stylish serviced apartments that offer flexibility in their city stay,” says Alfred Ong, Ascott’s managing director for Southeast Asia and Australia, of its Citadines Apart’hotel line (citadines.com), which allows guests to manage costs by offering select services, such as breakfast or housekeeping, for an added fee. According to Gaël OvideEtienne, CEO of the Web site Moveandstay.com, which features listings for some 20,000 serviced apartments around the world, “We’re adding brand-new serviced-apartment buildings to our site almost every week. A brand like Citadines is planning 11 openings over the next two years, while Frasers is looking at almost doubling its capacity for 2012.” Meanwhile, Australia’s largest serviced-apartment operator, Quest (questapartments. com.au), has plans to enter the Asian market in the next two years, bringing its unique approach to extended stays. One thing’s certain—there’s now more “service” in serviced apartments than ever before.

F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F F RAS E R S U I T ES SY D N EY; CO U RT ESY O F AS COT T RA F F L ES P L AC E

strategies | serviced

F R O M L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F S O N E VA K I R I B Y S I X S E N S E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S B A L I AT J I M B A R A N B AY

Apartments Versus Hotels

Soneva Kiri by Six Senses.

OLLAR FOR DOLLAR, A SERVICED APARTMENT WILL often give you more space than a hotel room. Residences at places like the Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay (fourseasons.com) or Soneva Kiri by Six Senses (sixsenses.com) in Ko Kood are large enough to be homes, offering families or groups of friends traveling together individual bedrooms and plenty of areas to hang out. Privacy also comes into play. Serviced properties won’t have shops and restaurants open to the public, and you’ll encounter far less turnover than at a hotel. However, consider whether you’ll miss interacting with others—at breakfast or at the bar,

A lounge at the Four Seasons Bali at Jimbaran Bay.

say. And though some serviced apartments offer daily breakfast and 24-hour reception, others do not. If you can’t go without perks like a concierge, daily housekeeping and turndown, and round-the-clock room service, a hotel might be preferable (though luxury serviced properties will offer these). What’s more, hotels may be more tourist-friendly, providing maps, travel services and other general info. Think of how long you’re staying—weekly and monthly rates at serviced apartments can be 10 to 15 percent lower than daily rates at hotels in the same category. You’ll also save by cooking your own meals and doing the laundry yourself.

strategies | serviced

apartments include rental, utilities, local phone calls and service charges. Also, newly built properties tend to have great introductory offers. Expect to pay a credit-card deposit (which will vary depending on length of stay). This should be refundable, but check the cancellation policy.

● When making initial inquiries, are the staff responsive, friendly and knowledgeable? ● Is there a 24-hour reception or help desk to assist me?

What about safety? Is there 24-hour security and are the grounds monitored by closed-circuit televisions? Do the rooms have a secure place for my valuables? Has the residence passed local ﬁre and safety codes? ●

● If there’s an on-site restaurant, what’s on the menu? Are there options that suit my dietary needs? Is there room service?

Are pets allowed? If so, is an extra deposit required? ●

● How often does housekeeping come? Daily? Weekly? Will I be provided with a housekeeper who speaks my native language? ● Are utilities, local phone calls or daily maid services included in the rate? Is there a cap on utility usage (and a subsequent fee)? ● Are household goods like irons, ironing boards and cutlery provided for free?

An indoor pool at the Shama Luxe serviced residence in Shanghai’s Xintiandi district.

What to Look For in a Serviced Stay Whether you’re committing for a week or a month, headed out on assignment or on honeymoon, check this list of essentials for happy serviced-apartment hunting: ■ LOCATION In big cities, ensure you’re near public transport or ask if there’s a shuttle service, a perk provided by residences like

(presidentpark.com) and

■ PRICING STRUCTURE Most serviced apartments can be rented on a nightly, weekly or monthly basis; some require minimum stays. Generally, the longer you book, the better the deal.

Somerset Liang Court, Singapore (somerset.com); on a

Marriott Executive Apartments (marriott.com) has

tropical vacation, find out if the property has its own beach. Families should check that parks, museums and supermarkets are within walking distance, while singles and couples will want to make sure they’re close to entertainment and nightlife.

a tiered pricing system whereby discounts apply for 30 days, six months and so on; in Hong Kong, Shama (shama. com) offers nightly rates from HK$1,280, while monthly rentals start at HK$16,800, saving guests between 25 to 30 percent. Your bill should

President Park Bangkok

J U N E 2010 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

■ CONDITION If the property isn’t a new construction, find out how often the units are maintained (carpets cleaned, appliances replaced, etc.). Also, quality will vary across properties— read reviews on sites like Tripadvisor.com or expat forums before booking. ✚

CO U RT ESY O F S H A M A LUX E X I N T I A N D I

QUESTIONS YOU SHOULD ASK

■ AMENITIES Perks might include airport pick-up, high-tech fitness centers, grocery delivery, swimming pools, mobile phones and fancy bath products; residents at units connected to hotels will enjoy the same services as hotel guests. Living rooms will typically have the latest technology, like flat-screen TVs, DVD players (and libraries) and iPod docks. Refrigerators, washer and dryers, coffee makers and kitchenettes are the norm. Find out if Internet use is free—and, for business travelers, what about faxing, photocopying and videoconferencing? Also ask about on-site restaurants and room service or delivery. Families should check for fully equipped kitchens, babysitting services and diversions like pools, playgrounds and lounge rooms—Somerset, Fraser and Oakwood are known for great kids’ stuff.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E SY O F A S C O T T K U A L A L U M P U R ; C O U R T E SY O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L K U A L A L U M P U R

One Cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Comparison Just how do a high-end serviced apartment and a luxury hotel room in Kuala Lumpur match up? We put a studio premier at the Ascott Kuala Lumpur and a deluxe city view room at the Mandarin Oriental to the test PROPERTY

ROOM AND LAYOUT

STUDIO PREMIER, ASCOTT KUALA LUMPUR

DELUXE CITY VIEW ROOM, MANDARIN ORIENTAL

BATHROOM

ROOM AMENITIES

SERVICES

LOCATION

PRICE

57 square meters, with a king-sized bed, a fully equipped kitchen, a four-person seating area, a desk and two windows.

Rain shower and separate tub with a wide range of Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Occitane products.

Broadband Internet access; a flat-screen TV with 30 channels; a home-theater system with DVD player; a coffee-maker; a dishwasher; and a stove.

24-hour reception with concierge; daily continental breakfast; daily housekeeping (except Sundays); a restaurant; room service (11 A.M.â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 10.30 P.M.); a residentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lounge; a fully equipped gym including a 19-square-meter swimming pool, a tennis court, a Jacuzzi, a sauna and a steam room.

Adjacent to the Petronas Twin Towers. 60-3/21426868; theascott.com.

From RM550 per night.

40 square meters, with a kingsized bed, a two-person lounger, a desk and one window.

Marbleclad, with a tub and rain shower. Stocked with hotelbranded toiletries and fluffy robes.

Broadband Internet access (RM68 per day); a flat-screen TV with 35 channels and a DVD player; an iPod dock; a mini-bar; and a coffee-maker.

24-hour reception with concierge; daily buffet breakfast; daily housekeeping, including turndown; 24-hour room service; a full spa with steam room, sauna and Jacuzzi; a 550-square-meter swimming pool; a kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; pool; tennis courts and squash courts; a fully equipped gym with on-site personal trainers; a beauty salon; seven restaurants and two barâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;lounges.

Next to the Petronas Twin Towers and KLCC Park. 60-3/23808888; mandarin oriental. com.

From RM539 per night.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE. ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HOW INTERCONTINENTAL HELPS YOU DISCOVER THE REAL SAIGON. Isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the real pleasure of travel having authentic experience? Of course, such moments canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be planned but you can give things a nudge in the right direction. At InterContinental Asiana Saigon, we use our local knowledge to share authentic insights, so our guests discover what makes a place both unique and memorable. Book now with our Holiday Saver package and enjoy 25% off your room and dining. You will also receive guaranteed late check-out until 3pm to stretch the very most out of family vacation*. * Terms and conditions apply. Offer must be booked before 17 July 2010 for stays between now and 31 August 2010.

Do you live an InterContinental life ?

.WZ UWZM QVNWZUI\QWV WZ \W UISM I ZM[MZ^I\QWV XTMI[M KITT !!!! MUIQT [IQOWV(QV\MZKWV\Q KWU WZ ^Q[Q\ QV\MZKWV\QVMV\IT KWU [IQOWV

strategies | serviced

apartments

Five Homes on the Road Below, we look at serviced stays across Southeast Asia, and give you the lowdown on everything you need to know from property design to added perks PROPERTY

ADDRESS

HIGHLIGHTS

95 Sukhumvit Soi 24; 66-2/661-1000; presidentpark. com.

A recently renovated four-star 228unit property in Sukhumvit popular with business travelers.

PRICE PER NIGHT

From Bt2,199

PRICE PER MONTH

WHAT YOU GET

From Bt40,000

24-hour room service and reception; daily housekeeping; three swimming pools; Jacuzzi and gym; free in-room Internet, depending on booking type.

From HK$22,000

Customized bedding with feather-top; free broadband; iPod docks, flat-screen TVs, DVD players, and mobile phones; daily housekeeping (excluding Sundays); 420-squaremeter rooftop garden with BBQ and Wi-Fi; free Bulgari amenities; and a DVD library.

From US$2,700

In-room DVD player and LCD TV; Marriott Revive bedding; daily housekeeping; 24-hour concierge; room service; an indoor swimming pool, gym and spa; and two restaurants.

From US$5,700

State-of-the-art homeentertainment system; daily housekeeping (excluding Sundays); 24-hour reception; a concierge; weekday breakfasts; a resortstyle pool and gym; kids’ play areas; an on-site restaurant; and a free shuttle to shops and restaurants.

Call for details.

Up to 10 times more space than standard rooms; a private infinity pool; a flat-screen TV and DVD player; an iPod docking station; a wine cooler; twice-daily housekeeping; a spa and health club; two restaurants and a lounge; private in-villa dining menus; a beachfront pool; and two tennis courts.

8 Russell St., Causeway Bay; 852/22025555; shama.com.

Hong Kong in style: the 110unit super-chic urban property was created by Paris-based designer Dillon Garris.

Jln. Jenderal Sudirman Kav 76–78; 62-21/57897888; marriott.com.

A 96-unit luxuryapartment property in the heart of Jakarta’s business district that prides itself on its five-star service.

51 Xuan Dieu St., Quang An; 84-4/37198877; hanoi.frasers hospitality. com.

With its sophisticated technology and design, the year-old, 170unit residence has changed the face of serviced apartments in Hanoi.

219 Moo 5, Angthong; 66-77/ 243-000; fourseasons. com.

The resort’s 14 one- to five-bedroom residences offer sublimely spacious, private quarters that overlook the Gulf of Thailand.

From HK$1,280

SHAMA CAUSEWAY BAY, HONG KONG

THE MAYFLOWER, JAKARTA

FRASER SUITES, HANOI

FOUR SEASONS, KO SAMUI 30

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

From US$140

From US$200

From Bt81,600

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F P R E S I D E N T P A R K B A N G K O K ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H A M A C A U S E W AY B AY ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E M AY F L O W E R J A K A R TA ; CO U RT ESY O F F RAS E R S U I T ES H A N O I ; CO U RT ESY O F FO U R S E AS O N S KO SA M U I

PRESIDENT PARK, BANGKOK

No.370, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Da-an District, Taipei City 106 ‫ש‬ռఱᄦջ֡⭰ɺᕀ370⚦

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F W S E O U L- W A L K E R H I L L ; C O U R T E S Y O F A M A N N E W D E L H I ; C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S H O N G K O N G ; A A R O N J O E L S A N T O S ; C O U R T E S Y O F N A C A S A & P A R T N E R S

Urban Designs. Five style-savvy stays worth a look on your next visit to Seoul <(page 42)

Price Points. Two worthy hotels, in two very distinct price ranges, for New Delhi <(page 38)

Made in Japan. It’s tradition versus modernity when it comes to visiting Kyoto (page 54) >

Three Cities. Expert advice to enjoy Hong Kong, Taipei and Manila <(page 48)

• New tables in Saigon and Shanghai • What makes designer Tony Chi tick? • The story behind your favorite cocktail

(Insider) Where to GoWhat to EatWhere to StayWhat to Buy

insider

| newsflash CULT UR E

DESIGNS ON KUALA LUMPUR

The dining room and courtyard of the Linden Centre, in Yunnan, China.

The Art of Immersion Inspired by years of collecting antiques and contemporary artwork in China, Brian and Jeanee Linden moved to the source and opened the Linden Centre in Yunnan. Using a restored inn as a base, they’ve created a series of programs to introduce travelers to the region’s art, architecture, culture and food. Trips this year include A Family Dream, South of the Clouds (summer), a hands-on exploration of the area’s weaving, calligraphy and wood-carving traditions; and the Photojourney to Yunnan (October 20–November 2), which takes guests through Lijiang’s scenic landscapes with photographer Alison Wright. 86-872/245-2988; linden-centre. com; intensive programs from US$4,050.—S A L M A A B D E L N O U R

EXHIBITION

TOP HOTEL TABLES E AT

SAIGON

SHANGHAI ■ Jing’an Chef Dane Clouston’s refined cooking at this elegant eatery is miles ahead of the fare found in other hotel restaurants. Each dish is a careful composition of flavors and textures. A frothy celeriac soup is lent heft by hazelnuts and a poached egg; squid ink ravioli stuffed with crab is paired with a butterscotch sauce. (It works.) For dessert, battle spoons over the tart lemon curd pie and the ginger meringue with green apple sorbet. 2nd floor, The PuLi Hotel and Spa; 1 Changde Lu; 86-21/2216-6988; thepuli.com; dinner for two RMB1,600.— J E N N I F E R C H E N

■ Yu Chu Hand-pulled noodles and high-quality dim sum bring a note of authenticity to the Intercontinental Asiana Saigon’s smart new Chinese restaurant. Cantonese and Pekingese food are the focus; the all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch has the usual suspects as well as less typical offerings such as rock salt–roasted pork belly and barbecued pork–apple pastries. Corner of Hai Ba Trung St. and Le Duan Blvd., District 1; 84-8/3520-9999; intercontinental.com/saigon; brunch for two VND1,100,00.— J . C .

J U N E 2010 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

BANGKOK ■ Ma Du Zi by Yuya French cuisine in Thailand by way of Japan? Sounds unlikely, but chef Yuya Okadu, who has worked from France's Loire Valley to Tokyo, pulls it off to perfection in this chic, secluded eatery hidden in a charming boutique hotel. The 31-year-old Japanese chef serves up ﬁne French fare with Asian inﬂections, like miso-steeped Provencal bouillabaise and vegetable mosaïque with fresh mango sauce. 9/1 Ratchadaphisek Rd.; 66-2/615-6400; maduzihotel.com; dinner for two Bt4,000.— L A R A D AY

C LO C KW I S E F RO M TO P L E F T: CO U RT ESY O F T H E L I N D E N C E N T R E ( 2 ) ; CO U RT ESY O F GA L E R I P E T RO N AS ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A D U Z I B Y Y U YA ; C O U R T E S Y O F Y U C H U ; C O U R T E S Y O F J I N G 'A N

Below, our favorite new restaurant openings from hotels across Southeast Asia

FIRST LOOK Q+A

Thai Revival In Thailand, T+L highlights three exciting debuts to watch for in the coming months. BY L I A N G X I N Y I W RETREAT KOH SAMUI

TONY CHI The design maestro behind some of the world’s most lauded hotels talks to T+L about what makes him tick. ● DESIGN PHILOSOPHY “Over the years, tonychi and associates have relentlessly pursued perfection—the art of making less, more than enough. I call it ‘invisible design’ and explain it as ‘what touches you rather than what you see.’ Invisible design is truly design for the people, because the designer disappears.”

L E F T: CO U RT ESY O F TO N Y C H I R I G H T, F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F W R E T R E AT K O H S A M U I ; C O U R T E S Y O F S I A M K E M P I N S K I ; C O U R T E S Y O F H I LT O N P AT TAYA

● PUREST PHILOSOPHICAL EXPRESSION “With Park Hyatt Shanghai [shanghai.park.hyatt.com] we were truly able to achieve a design of silence. Art is silent poetry.” ● INSPIRATION “People. Always. I continue to engage, embrace, encounter others. Hospitality is essentially people taking care of people, and, after all, form follows function.” ● LATEST COMPLETED PROJECT IN ASIA “With Tables [restaurant at the Grand Hyatt Erawan; bangkok.grand.hyatt.com] we wanted to revisit the old-world tradition of tableside cooking. We wanted to recapture this sort of ‘once upon a time’ dining manner: knowing what you are eating, the techniques employed in its preparation, having a truly intimate integration between diner and server. We wanted to re-establish a sense of time.” ● FAVORITE ASIAN HAUNT “Tokyo. It’s a city that embraces its past, and yet is actively in its future—both in terms of the tangible and intangible. It is a harmonized city, and allows an individual to compose their own symphony.” ● TOKYO’S BEST Park Hyatt Tokyo [tokyo.park.hyatt.com] ultimately defines ‘sense of place.’ I think of the term genius loci, literally ‘genius of place’: it is used to describe places that are deeply memorable for their architectural and experiential qualities. Park Hyatt Tokyo has a controlled, temporal quality. The quality of the light, the sounds your hear, all are meticulously synchronized and wholly specific—in the way a Frank Lloyd Wright home intimately communicates with its location, and could exist in no other place.” — J . C .

The W Hotel Group boosts its profile with its first Southeast Asian outpost, W Retreat Koh Samui, set to open this August on Samui’s serene northern shore. The much-anticipated getaway promises to push the envelope of resort design with its use of strong contemporary lines and flowing spaces in 75 well-appointed villas, each outfitted with an oversize daybed, private plunge pool, 47-inch plasma TV and signature W bed. 4/1 Moo 1 Tambon Maenam, Ko Samui; 6677/915-999; starwoodhotels.com; doubles from Bt16,000.

SIAM KEMPINSKI As of press time, opening this month in Bangkok, the Kempinski Hotel Group’s first flagship property in Thailand melds European sophistication with Thai styling. The property feels like an oasis with its 303 guest rooms, suites and serviced residences set amid lush gardens. It also boasts a lineup of eateries, including Brasserie Europa, Sra Bua Thai restaurant as well as the T Lounge, which stocks fine teas, cocktails and champagne. 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., Bangkok; 66/2162-9000; kempinski.com; doubles from Bt13,900.

HILTON PATTAYA A 1.5-hour drive southeast of Bangkok, Hilton Pattaya will inject a welcome touch of glam to the well-known Thai beach town when it opens its doors this October. The 302-room hotel is perched 16 stories above CentralFestival Pattaya Complex — a glitzy, 240,000-square-meter shopping mall located along the beach — with an exclusive entrance on the ground ﬂoor. Rooms are spacious and come with 180-degree views over Pattaya Bay. For a fresh sea breeze, head up to the rooftop sky restaurant. 333/101 Moo 9 Nong Prue Banglamung, Pattaya; 66/2667-5555; hilton.com; doubles from Bt4,000.

T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M | J U N E 2 0 1 0

| newsflash

The iconic Taj Mahal.

HOTEL WAT C H

Mumbai’s Next Act A year and a half after being damaged in the Mumbai terrorist attacks, two of the city’s most celebrated hotels, the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower and the Oberoi, have opened again—a testament to the city’s robustness and strength. The lobby of the Taj—a plush Edwardian palace on the Arabian Sea—has a new look, with dragonpatterned panels and etched glasswork, but the heritage wing’s 297 rooms and suites remain classic, filled with period furniture. A striking tower on Marine Drive, the Oberoi now offers modern guest rooms, freshened up in a palette of ivory and sage, also received tech updates, including Wi-Fi and iPod-docking stations. The airy lobby is detailed with white Thassos marble and black granite. Book a table at Ziya, a restaurant by star chef Vineet Bhatia. Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder; 9122/66653366; tajhotels.com; doubles from US$475. The Oberoi, Nariman Point; 91-22/6632-5757; oberoihotels.com; doubles from US$665.—A M I N J A F F E R 36

Crown Jewel

HOTEL

Melbourne’s already lively hotel scene received ed a jolt with the opening of the A$300 million Crown Metropol (8 Whiteman St., Southbank, Victoria; 61/3-9292-6211; crownmetropol.com; doubles from A$249). Designed by local architects Bates Smart, the 28-storey building adjoins the casino and boasts a liquid wave façade that looms large over the heaving Southbank precinct. Each of the 658 rooms, suites, studios and spa suites sports a masculine palette of rust-coloured carpet and timber trim with hiThe exterior of the definition plasma TV and iPod Crown Metropol (above). docking station. Recover from Below: An Isika Studio. jet-lag with a massage or a lap in the heated indoor infinity pool at Isika, a sky-high day spa. This being Melbourne, imaginatively conceived food with fresh ingredients is never far away. On the ground floor is Maze, Gordon Ramsay’s first Australian outpost, while the sky bar on the 28th floor offers an ideal spot for a cocktail and fine views over the city.— D AV E N W U

PAGE TURNER SHOPPING

In Singapore, bookstores have defaulted towards a mix of nondescript rows of shelving, unflattering lighting and indifferent signage. Which is why the newly minted Prologue (ION Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, #04-16 and #05-03; 65/64651475; popular.com.sg) has proved to be such a bestseller. Owned by the Popular group, a chain of Singaporean bookstores better known for their stock of study guides and well-priced stationery, Prologue owes much of its smooth visual DNA to local interior architect Ministry of Design who designed everything from the décor and logo to the floor plan and shopping bags. Says design director Colin Seah, “One issue that baffled us was how bland and static most bookstore window displays were, seemingly decades behind fashion retail standards.” Seah’s solution was to inject a luxe boutique vibe with a dash of humor to the bookstore. This explains the giant dinosaur at the entrance ploughing through a cityscape of books; satiny black tiling for the book displays; specially designed signage; and a slinky epoxy red staircase that leads up to the second floor stationery department.—D . W .

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

LEFT: © YELLOWCREST / DREAMSTIME.COM R I G H T, F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F C R O W N M E T R O P O L ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F P R O L O G U E ( 2 )

insider

| high and low

New Delhi. Our side-by-side comparison gives the lowdown

INDIA

on two stylish getaways in India’s colorful capital—with and without the hefty price tag. By TANVI CHHEDA US$169

PER NIGHT

US$550

■ AMAN NEW DELHI Location A stone’s throw from the Lodi Gardens and Nizamuddin Shrine, this modern, stone-built hotel comprises two sleek structures, the Aman and the Lodhi, situated at opposite ends of a lush lawn with a 50-meterlong sunken pool. First Impressions Driving up the marigold-adorned porte cochère feels like you’re entering a sweeping country estate—the expansive property sits on 2.8 hectares, belying its city surroundings. The pomegranate-crushed basil juice served upon arrival is a refreshing pick-me-up. Rooms Ranging from generous to sprawling, the 67 rooms feature balconies with day beds, with all 39 Aman rooms offering private plunge pools—a deliberate blending of Amanresorts’ beach-resort legacy into a bustling cityscape. Interiors are outfitted with Khareda stone floors, traditional jaali (mosaic-style) screens and the latest from author William Dalrymple on your bedside table. Pedigree With 23 ultra-luxe properties across the globe, Amanresorts needs little introduction, but this hotel stands out as an urban entry. Drawbacks Finding your way back to your room—especially if it’s across the lawn—might require some concentration. DON’T MISS Incredible treats at turndown such as khus chikki and gulab chikki, sweet Indian brittles made with white poppy seeds and rose petals, respectively. Value Factor Easily the largest rooms among its luxury counterparts, including the nearby Oberoi—and don’t forget those plunge pools. Lodhi Rd.; 91-11/4363-3333; amanresorts.com; Aman rooms from US$550. 38

JUNE

2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

■ THE MANOR Location On a tree-lined street in residential Friends Colony, this bungalow-style boutique feels kilometers away from frenetic New Delhi. First Impressions Floor-toceiling windows in the lobby make for a bright and sunny welcome into what could easily be a chic friend’s home, including the requisite coffee-table book of photographer Raghu Rai’s most compelling works. Rooms Decorated in caramel and chocolate-brown hues, the rooms, 15 in all, are contemporary and chic. Additional upgrades, like iPod docks and luxe bed linens, are underway. Pedigree Owned by New Delhi–based Old World Hospitality, The Manor is in good company, with the kitschy Hotel Broadway and its beloved Chor Bizarre restaurant also part of the brand’s portfolio. Drawbacks Some of the standard rooms are a bit compact. DON’T MISS A hearty breakfast of aloo parathas (potato-stuffed breads), dosas and toast served with housemade gooseberry jam (plus other seasonal fruit jellies from the foothills of the Himalayas) on the patio—all included in the room rate and made to order. At night, dig into cumin gnocchi and creamy tofu kofta at Indian Accent, the hotel’s award-winning modern restaurant. Up Next A twostory spa building, complete with pool, yoga studio and organic restaurant, debuts this September. Value Factor Thanks to the staff’s attention to detail, you’ll feel like you have a personal butler—without paying for one. 77 Friends Colony West; 91-11/2692-5151; themanordelhi.com; standard rooms from US$169. ✚

F RO M L E F T: CO U RT ESY O F A M A N N EW D E L H I ; CO U RT ESY O F T H E M A N O R

PER NIGHT

Special Promotion

GRAND DESIGNS Prepare to be swept away by Grand Hyatt Macau. This stylish new contemporary hotel concept comprises two curvaceous, wave-inspired towers within City of Dreams, the new aquatic-themed entertainment resort located on Cotai

imply enter the vast lobby, with its backdrop of red rainforest marble, cascading water sculpture, and overhead illuminated cloud motif. The impact is breathtaking. Then you realize that this eye-catching assemblage merely hints at the aesthetic drama to follow. High ceilings, abundant glass and natural daylight imbue the hotel with an airy atmosphere betting the abundant onsite meetings and conference facilities. Housing one of the largest event spaces in Macau, spanning almost 9,000sq-m—in addition to the 791 luxurious, mostly suite-style guestrooms— Grand Hyatt Macau is set to become a leading regional MICE (Meetings, Incentives, Conferences, Exhibitions) venue. Says General Manager Mr. Paul Kwok: “Given the sheer scale, variety and unique nature of our event venues, alongside the world-class entertainment available at City of Dreams ... Grand Hyatt Macau is a truly integrated destination.” When hunger strikes, the 225-seater Beijing Kitchen specializes in delectable Northern Chinese fare, from hand-pulled noodles to classic Peking Duck. These gastronomic standouts are married to ne wines, gourmet coffee and sumptuous desserts. mezza9 Macau, on the other hand, presents nine different Asian and Western culinary experiences: Deli; Sushi; Steam Basket; Wok; Macanese; Grill; Dessert; Bar; and Wine Cellar. Peruse these delights in a space dened by counters and pillars hewn from giant granite blocks. On Level 3, visitors to Isala Spa may access the hotel’s Fitness Centre and Pool Deck, including a distinctive water lounge, as well as the spa facilities. With this in mind, the holistic menu offers three treatment moods: soothing “Dream”; opulent “Dynasty”; and “Harmony”, which is designed to revitalize, detoxify and balance. All feature traditional Chinese massage rituals, combining the latest international products with local Macanese ingredients, like sea salt, lychee fruit and rock sugar. A mere ve-minute hop from Macau International Airport, the non-gaming Grand Hyatt Macau chauffeurs guests wherever they desire—from City of Dreams to historic Portuguese architecture. It is time spent in rareed surroundings like these that one realizes that dreams can become a living reality.

For further information, contact: Grand Hyatt Macau, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau Phone: +853 8868 1234 Direct: +853 8868 1756 Fax: +853 8868 1798 www.macau.grand.hyatt.com

insider

| bring it back 1

Edible Souvenirs. Looking for that perfect travel memento?

Here, our favorite signature treats from hotels around the world

1 Strolghino salami, Antica Corte Pallavicina, Polesine Parmese, Italy (acpallavicina.com). 2 X.O. sauce, Peninsula Hong Kong ( peninsula.com). 3 Jasmine tea, Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, Vietnam (sofitel.com). 4 Rose-petal jam, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong (mandarinoriental.com). 5 Steak sauce, The Wauwinet, Nantucket, Massachusetts, U.S. (wauwinet.com). 6 Preserved Meyer lemons, Montage Beverly Hills, California, U.S. (montagebeverlyhills.com). 7 Mezcal, Condesa DF, Mexico City, Mexico (condesadf.com). 8 Adour Macarons, St. Regis New York, U.S. (stregisnewyork.com). 9 Pancake mix, Kahala Hotel & Resort, Honolulu, U.S. (kahalaresort.com). 10 Extra-virgin olive oil, Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Andana, Grosseto, Italy (andana.it). 11 Hard candy, Ojai Valley Inn

& Spa, California, U.S. (ojairesort.com). â&#x153;&#x161; 40

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Photographed by DAVIES + STARR

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| hotels

KOREA

Form Meets Function Clockwise from left: IP Boutique’s elevator resembles an oversize suitcase; the Banyan Tree Club & Spa; the WooBar at the W Seoul-Walkerhill.

Grand Designs. With Seoul abuzz with excitement at being

■ IP Boutique Hotel If there’s any doubt that a World Design Capital accolade can spark a truly stylish stay to spring up overnight, just look at the IP Boutique Hotel. This artsy-luxe property, opened just three months ago, is unmissable from the street thanks to its playful Lego-style colored-glass façade, conceived by an avant-garde design professor at Seoul’s Hongik University. The interior is equally adventurous: the lobby features green cushions on low-hanging swings, oversize lamps, cross-shaped white vinyl couches and Japanese mixedmedia art by Shintaro Ohata. A memorable ride up the elevator— 42

which resembles a giant suitcase— brings you to one of the hotel’s 133 chic rooms: icy-white décor is punctuated by red carpets and vibrant pop art, while bathrooms are transparent glass, from showers to sinks. The pièce de résistance is IP’s outdoor soaking pool, opening this month. T+L TIP Even if you don’t stay overnight, drop by for poolside drinks. 737-32 Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu; 82-2/3702-8000; ipboutiquehotel.com; doubles from KRW134,000. ■ Banyan Tree Club & Spa Seoul’s developers were once unconcerned with design, their dense,

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cookie-cutter high rises flooding the capital following the destruction of the Korean War. Though most are architectural eyesores, a few iconic structures have been worth preserving. Case in point: Kim Swoo-geun’s soaring white Tower Hotel, originally constructed in 1967, on the slopes of Mount Namsam. Newly remodeled as a boutique resort by Architrave, Banyan Tree’s in-house design team, the property unveiled 34 luxurious guest rooms this month, each with an in-room plunge pool; panoramic views of mountain and city can be had from outdoor wine bars, dining cabanas and an open-air gym. The clean, modern

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B A N YA N T R E E C L U B & S P A ; C O U R T E S Y O F W S E O U L- W A L K E R H I L L ; C O U R T E S Y O F I P B O U T I Q U E H O T E L

named this year’s World Design Capital, now is the time to visit. Here, T+L selects five style-savvy stays. By NICOLAI HARTVIG

design pays homage to Korea’s close relationship with nature: think leaf-shaped loungers, rugged granite pillars, marble-and-pebble interiors and a profusion of fountains and streams. T+L TIP While you’re staying, make the most of the hotel’s private members’ club for one-on-one golf and soccer lessons from former pros— otherwise memberships start at a cool KRW130 million (US$116,000). San 5-5, Jang Chung-dong 2-ga, Jung-gu; 82-2/2236-3356; banyantree.com; doubles from KRW402,000.

F R O M L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F W S E O U L- W A L K E R H I L L ; C O U R T E S Y O F H O T E L T R I A ; CO U RT ESY O F I P BO U T I Q U E H OT E L ; CO U RT ESY O F H OT E L T R I A

■ W Seoul-Walkerhill The rock ’n’ roll W, a vanguard property that ignited Seoul’s design scene when it opened in 2004, hasn’t aged a bit—possibly because it spares no expense for those willing to do the same. Unusually large for a “boutique” hotel, it offers 253 eye-popping modernist rooms, including the aptly designated Extreme Wow Suite, whose attractions include a four-person Jacuzzi, dining space for 10 and even a personal wine cellar. The WooBar is a perennial favorite among the Gucci set—it still dazzles with moving digital artworks, a shiny mirror-ball that

doubles as a DJ booth, and a slope of egg-shaped chairs that wouldn’t go amiss in Alvar Aalto’s living room. The W’s Kitchen restaurant serves organic fare in an airy environment, while outdoors, don’t miss a soak in the Hinoki hot tubs, fancifully shaped like halved concrete coconuts. T+L TIP Book a corner room for the best views over Seoul’s cityscape. 175 Achaseong-gil, Gwangjin-gu; 82-2/465-2222; wseoul.com; doubles from KRW215,000. ■ Hotel Tria Tria is all about lines and angles, from the thin-strip rectangular windows to the equally geometric couches. Tucked away on a side street in Yeoksam’s bustling business district, this stylish 50-room stay attracts business travelers as well as young, trendy Koreans drawn here by the chic surrounds and the proximity to Gangnam’s buzzing nightlife. The hotel’s design features a cross-section of vintage 1970’s furniture and new-millennium polish, with wood paneling, exposed brick and earth-toned mixed-media art on the walls. T+L TIP A five-minute stroll takes you to the LG Arts Center, which shows cutting-edge dance, theater and music performances. 677-11 11 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2/553-2471; hoteltria.co.kr; doubles from rom KRW110,000.

■ Tea Tree Hotel For those looking for simplicity in a land of plenty, the Tea Tree Hotel may be just the ticket. This understated stay is smack in the middle of trendy tree-lined Garosu-gil, a stretch of designer boutiques and cafés frequented by celebrities and local cognoscenti. Its Haussmann-like façade, inspired by owner Sainy Chun’s time living in London, Paris and Rome, belies the low-key interior: all tranquil tan and white, with 38 rooms that are best described as chic Euro-spartan— think bare, blond-wood floors, white beds and furnishings, and plenty of space. The hotel’s coffee shop is fine for breakfast or an espresso, but remember that some of Seoul’s best international bites are just round the corner: try the albóndigas and Serrano ham at tapas bar Spain Club. T+L TIP Check into the Spa room and relax on the deck in an open-air Jacuzzi. Garosu-gil, Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu; 82-2/542-9954; teatreehotel. co.kr; doubles from KRW79,000. ✚

Funky Town From left: Kitchen restaurant at the W; a room at the Hotel Tria; a sculpture at IP Boutique; the Tria’s interior.

For more ideas on design hotels in Southeast Asia, visit www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com 43

| night out

One for the Road. Offering refuge, glamour, the frisson of exotic lands and (yes) a nice buzz, good hotel bars are worth their weight in crushed ice. PETER JON LINDBERG explores their timeless appeal

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

ÂŠ YA N S TAV / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M

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THROUGHOUT SOUTHEAST ASIA

HE ONLY TRUE REQUIREMENT OF A GREAT

hotel is that it have a decent bar somewhere on the premises. They could leave out the front desk, room service, even the beds; surely we’d all find spots at the bar to keep us safe and warm until morning. Regarding the character of said bar, there are certain prerequisites. It should be intimate in scale, yet capacious enough that you can always find a seat. The television—if we must—should loom no larger than the choking instructions. The loudest sound shall be the shaking of ice. An excess of staff is actually a minus; hotel bars are not hotels. And for God’s sake, no bouncers. A bartender should be the only thing standing between you and a perfect Manhattan. It’s clear why, in the days of empire, sunstroked and shell-shocked colonials took refuge in the paddle-fanned lobbies of grand hotels. How pleasant to view one’s strange new surroundings through the rosy bottom of a cordial glass! Now, as then, a good hotel bar is an oasis of civility, a place for the displaced to regroup and recuperate from a day of sightseeing or latter-day empire-building. That’s why the best of the breed offer both a sense of the world outside and a retreat from it. It needn’t have windows nor a door onto the street (some legendary bars are famously landlocked, and cozier for it), but it should have a palpable relation to the city beyond its walls, such that—even after four perfect Manhattans—one can still hazard a guess at one’s locale. Regarding the crowd, the proper measure is key: three-fifths out-of-town guests (for novelty) to two-fifths nonguests (for local color), with a dash of resident weirdo (for zest). Tip the balance in locals’ favor and you’ve upset the fundamental contract of a hotel bar, which is that the guest is always, always the most important person in the room. Y EARS AGO I OCCASIONED THE BAR AT THE W ARWICK New York Hotel, not far from my office in midtown Manhattan. There were nicer hotel bars, of course, some within blocks—the King Cole at the St. Regis, the Oak Bar at the Plaza, the 57 Bar at the Four Seasons. But there was liberation at the Warwick: you could relax here. In the real New York, one’s choice of venue was prescribed by age, income, fashion sense and cheekbones. Hotel bars like the Warwick laid the Great Chain of Being on its side. This was democracy with a buzz on. Airline crews, dowagers in pearlbuttoned cardigans, Irish backpackers scarfing wasabi peas for the price of a US$12 beer, and the occasional Yugoslav basketball team—all were welcome here, bad footwear be damned. I assume the Warwick had a door policy, though it was hardly exclusive. Some nights it felt like the Star Wars cantina with better lighting and a friendlier clientele. »

INDULGE YOURSELF

THE WORLD’S LEADING TRAVEL MAGAZINE www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com

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| night out

TIME LINE: A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE HOTEL COCKTAIL By ANTHONY GIGLIO

SINGAPORE SLING Rafﬂes Hotel, Singapore The secret ingredient of this gin-based cocktail is Cherry Heering, a tart Danish liqueur made from arasca cherries.

EARL GREY MARTEANI The Carlyle, New York City Audrey Saunders makes a tribute tipple for London’s Ritz, combining two of the U.K.’s favorite tinctures: gin and tea.

THE MARTINI Knickerbocker Hotel, New York City Perhaps in honor of the dry wit of his literati clientele, barman Martini di Arma di Taggia develops the ﬁrst modern-day martini.

1910

1912

1934

PIÑA COLADA Caribe Hilton, San Juan, Puerto Rico Ramón “Monchito” Marrero creates the resort’s signature cocktail, showcasing the cream of coconut drink Coco López invented that same year.

1938

F OR AS LONG AS TRAVELERS HAVE ROAMED THE EARTH , there have been watering holes bent on liquoring them up. In Chaucer’s day every roadside inn had a tavern for the weary pilgrim, who after too many flagons could simply flop down on a pallet upstairs. (Which raises the question: Which came first, the tavern or the inn?) The hotel bar’s heyday, from the mid 19th century to the early 20th, saw two dominant archetypes. Europe gave the world the clubby grand-hotel saloon, which found its apogee in London at the Dorchester JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

THE MOPOLITAN COSMOPOLITAN trand, South The Strand, Beach, Miami SoBe mixologist Cheryl Cook gets credit for contriving this drink with the debut of Absolut Citron.

1954

(People in hotel bars tend to be chattier than their brethren elsewhere, especially if they’re from Minnesota and just saw Billy Elliot.) And while it’s a thrill to be greeted at your local, there’s something about a bar where nobody knows your name. A hotel bar lets you be yourself by not having to be yourself. More than anything, a drink at the Warwick made me feel like I was traveling. The place had all the iconography of an indeterminately foreign hotel: potted ferns; tasseled lamps; strange accents; overpriced gin. As the tumult of Sixth Avenue receded with the workday clamor, I could convince myself I was ensconced at the Taj in Bombay, the Oriental in Bangkok or the Mount Nelson in Cape Town, resting up before my next foray.

MIEHANA ANA Hanalei Hotel, San Diego Jeff Berry, instrumental in n the eates revival of tiki drinks, creates this delicious rum punch that lobe. quickly circles the globe.

THE MARGARITA Rancho La Gloria, Baja California, Mexico Carlos “Danny” Herrera names this drink for a guest who hates the taste of tequila.

1985

2002

THE COSMO-N0T W Atlanta-Downtown Speakeasy impresario Sasha Petraske takes a swipe at the Cosmo with this blend of red-currant reserves, gin and preserves, mon juice. lemon

2007

2010

and the Savoy. The world gave back the exotic colonial gin joint—places like the Long Bar, at Singapore’s Raffles, and the more recent Patiala Peg, at New Delhi’s Imperial—which borrowed liberally from the European template while adding location-specific details (heliconia; etchings of elephants; extra quinine in the G&T’s). The great American hotel bars of the 20th century took their cues from either the London model (favored in the Northeast and Midwest) or the tropical-colonial (a natural for the Sunbelt states), though the two more often overlapped in a tangle of palm fronds and a haze of cigar smoke. The rest of the world likewise conflated the two—which is why almost all hotel bars built before the 1990’s, from San Jose to Sydney, look pretty much the same. At some point in our lifetime, however, lobby bars—like passenger jets—lost much of their glamour. The oasis of civility became a desultory rec room for sad-sack salesmen and braying conventioneers. Ian Schrager did his best to rescue the genre in the 1990’s, reinventing the lobby as nightclub. The result was an invasion of cynical sub-Schragers who threw a few cube stools into a backlit room and called it a trendy bar. At too many boutique hotels, lobbies have been effectively surrendered to drunk bachelorettes and guys with BlackBerry belt clips ordering

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RED SNAPPER St. Regis, New York City Fernand Petiot brings his magic recipe for the Bloody Mary from Paris. Management rechristens it the Red Snapper.

apple-pie martinis—and not one of them staying at the hotel. (Remember the fundamental contract.) An actual guest has a better time holed up in his room with the mini-bar. The problem with such places isn’t just the dessert-like cocktails or the paint-by-numbers design; it’s also that they look and feel as ephemeral as their ambient sound tracks, as transient as their ﬁckle clientele. They don’t understand that a great hotel bar is not about music or furniture or even the drinks, but the implication of permanence: the comforting thought that while all these wayward souls might return to their faraway homes tomorrow, these bar stools will still be here in 50 years. You can’t say that about the Luxx Lounge. The classic hotel bars of yore have seen trends come and go like so many traveling salesmen. They know enough to pay them no heed. The King Cole poured US$100,000 into restoring its famous mural, but didn’t do a thing to the bar, which looks as good as it always has—maybe even a little better, like Robert Redford’s eyes. Thankfully, the next generation of hotel bars has learned to eschew passing fads for a more timeless aesthetic. The bars at the Ace, Bowery and Jane hotels, in New York, and the new Burritt Room, at the Crescent San Francisco, all harken back to the old-school models; with their club chairs and well-worn carpets, they look as if they’ve been around since Prohibition.

My all-time favorite hotel bar actually has been around since Prohibition. It’s in a hotel I’ve never stayed at, though I’ve never felt unwelcome there, and never needed a plus-one. The Veranda Bar hides in a lush courtyard behind L.A.’s Figueroa Hotel, a rambling 1925 Spanish-Moroccan pile with character to burn. Fronting a pool fringed with cactus and bougainvillea, the bar has that louche, vaguely seedy vibe that so many new hotels here try but fail to replicate, because they haven’t had decades to fade and decay. The atmosphere is fantastic, as opposed to fabulous. And the crowd, like at the Warwick, is wholly unpredictable—a rarity among L.A. hotel bars, where the clientele is usually handpicked by doormen, such that they’ve all become velvet-roped sandboxes for the same 127 people. A recent night at the Fig, by contrast, brought out line cooks, downtown suits, Echo Park hipsters, Lakers fans (the Staples Center is across the street) and three off-duty mariachis. None of them could be confused for the beau monde. But under those pressed-tin Moroccan lanterns, in the quivering blue light reﬂected off the pool, everyone looked sensational. ✚

When we say we will move mountains for our guests, we really mean it literally. We are used to such sights: guests checking in with the barest minimum and checking out with tonnes of bags and luggage. That’s the beauty of the 5-star One World Hotel. A door away from 1 Utama, a multi-award-winning shopping centre. With over 5 million sq. ft. of innovative and exciting attractions to explore, 1 Utama is more than just great shopping. There’s always something to thrill all ages: from dining and entertainment to a unique Rainforest that houses over 100 species of flora and fauna. Adding to the experience, there’s the Secret Garden of 1 Utama, South East Asia’s largest rooftop garden with over 500 species of rare tropical and temperate plants. For an ideal shopping vacation with 5-star services, be pampered with 6 new categories of lavishly furnished guestrooms and suites that enhance the experience of comfort and luxury, 7 signature restaurants, lounges and bars and an award-winning spa that offers an oasis of peace and tranquility. You don’t have to move mountains to find a great shopping vacation. Just begin your exploration at www.oneworldhotel.com.my

The BrandLaureate SMEs Chapter Awards 2009 Corporate Branding Best Brands in Hotel – Business

Cinnamon Coffee C ff House H Malaysia Tourism Award 2008 - 2009 Innovative Restaurant Premier Award - International Restaurant

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| the expert

Asia’s New Concierges. Three homegrown service pros from

Hong Kong, Taipei and Manila offer their best tips, from buzz-worthy hotspots to off-the-beaten-track experiences. By LARA DAY

Caroline Ng, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong

BACKGROUND Chef concierge since the hotel’s pre-opening ﬁve years ago, Ng trained in Switzerland before returning to her hometown of Hong Kong by way of Australia. She steers guests toward both the authentic and the exceptional using insider knowledge and high standards.

ISLAND HOP Take a junk trip to some of Hong Kong’s islands [standardboat.hk; 852/2570-1792; junk rentals from HK$2,500]. Stop for lunch on Po Toi at Ming Kee Seafood Restaurant [852/2849-7038; lunch for two HK$400]—don’t miss the deep-fried chili squid—then go for a dip in the ocean. Afterward, on Lamma Island, watch the sun set at The Bay [7 Beach Front, Mo Tat Wan; thebayhk.com; 852/29828186; drinks for two HK$116]. The food is so-so, but the Bloody Marys are excellent.

Young China Hand From top: Caroline Ng; succulent sashimi; Sugar offers great views; that iconic Hong Kong skyline.

HOTTEST BRUNCH Sunday brunch at Zuma [Levels 5&6, 15 Queen’s Road, Central; zumarestaurant.com.hk; 852/3657-6388; brunch for two HK$1,100] has free-ﬂowing champagne, a fantastic sushi buffet and robata-grill items to order. Young families tend to go at 11:30 A.M.; so book the second seating at 1 P.M. It gets very busy. MUST-SEE ART For top local artists, head to Grotto Fine Art [2nd Floor, 31C–D Wyndham St., Central; grottoﬁneart.com; 852/2121-2270]. For Chinese and Korean pop art, go to Moon Gallery [111 Queen’s Rd. West, Sheung Wan; moongallery. org; 852/2858-1771], a destination in itself. EYE-POPPING VIEWS When in need of something laid-back, sit outside at Sugar [21 Taikoo Shing Rd., Quarry Bay; east-hongkong.com; 852/3968-3968; drinks for two HK$200], a rooftop bar. But the best views are still from Kowloon side on the Star Ferry [starferry.com.hk; tickets HK$2.20] looking back at Hong Kong. GREAT VALUE

UNDERSTATED CHIC My favorite designers make their clothes special through their cuts, not just their patterns. Blanc de Chine [201–203A Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St., Central; blancdechine.com; 852/2524-7875] updates Chinese designs with muted colors and sleek tailoring. 48

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F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F FO U R S E AS O N S H O N G KO N G ; CO U RT ESY O F Z U M A ; CO U RT ESY O F S U GA R ; © Y T WO N G / I STO C K P H OTO.CO M

HONG KONG

Gary Huang, Hotel Quote

BACKGROUND Huang’s career in design hotels led him to join Hotel Quote as a concierge two years ago. With his ﬁnger on the pulse, he uses his extensive contacts and genuine warmth to help guests make the most of Taipei’s often-undiscovered vitality.

TAIPEI HOTTEST NIGHTLIFE There are some excellent pubs on Songren Road. Brown Sugar [101 Songren Rd., Xinyi; 886-2/8780-1110; brownsugarlive.com; drinks for two NT$700] is the number one choice for jazz lovers—the décor is modern, with a comfy bar and lounge. If you like clubbing, head to Room 18 [88 Songren Rd, Xinyi; 8862/2345-2778; room18.com.tw; admission for two NT$1,400, including two drinks each], a great spot for hip-hop music that attracts the fashion and celebrity crowd. STREET EATS For street food, locals go to Rao He Street Night Market [Raohe St., Songshan; raohe.com.tw]. Try the mian xian [soup with thin noodles with oysters] and the hu jiao bing [black-pepper pork buns].

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F H O T E L Q U O T E ; C O U R T E S Y O F L’ I D I O T ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H I A T Z Y C H E N ; C O U R T E S Y O F L’ I D I O T ; C O U R T E S Y O F E S L I T E

GREAT VALUE

City of Surprises From top: Gary Huang; inside L’Idiot; part of Shiatzy’s 2010 collection; eggs Benedict at L’Idiot; Eslite, open 24 hours.

CHILL-OUT ZONES Eslite [No. 11, Songgao Road, Xinyi; 886-2/8789-3388; eslite.com], Taipei’s 24-hour bookstore, is comfortable, with a coffee shop where you can sit and browse books. L’Idiot restaurant [1st Floor, No. 156, Minsheng E. Road, Sec. 3, Songshan; 886-2/2545-6966; lidiotrestaurant.com; brunch for two NT$800] does an excellent brunch. OLD-SCHOOL EATS My favorite Taiwanese restaurant is Hawji Tan-Zai Noodles [79 & 83 Jilin Rd., Zhongshan; 886-2/2523-5115; hawji.tw; dinner for two NT$800], which serves local dishes. People gather around large banquet-style tables to order kong jou [sweet, soya-stewed pork with ginger]. MUST-HAVE THREADS Don’t miss Taiwanese fashion brand Shiatzy Chen [49-1, Sec. 2, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan; 886-2/2542-5506; shiatzychen.com]. Their clothes are all over the world, most recently on the runways in Paris. RURAL ESCAPE Go to Yangmingshan National Park [ ymsnp.gov.tw] and enjoy the hot springs and organic vegetables grown by local farmers. Take Dongsheng Road from Bei-tou instead of the well-known Yangde Boulevard. The views are amazing and the trafﬁc is much more quiet. T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M| J U N E

2010

insider

| the expert MANILA

BACKGROUND With 18

years of experience at this hotel, Hidalgo worked his way up from pageboy to chef concierge. His ﬂair for meeting guests’ needs—he has tracked down old World War II comrades—mean he’s the man for uncovering Manila’s secrets.

BEST-VALUE BLING At Greenhills Shopping Center [Ortigas Avenue, San Juan; greenhills.com.ph; 63-2/721-0572], go to the tiannge, a scrubbed-up ﬂea market of sorts, where freshwater pearls go for a song compared to pricier South Sea pearls. Its most famous customer is Queen Soﬁa of Spain. GREAT VALUE

NEXT GREAT INVESTMENT Filipino art’s the next big thing on the Asian circuit, so buy it while it’s cheap. Some of the best galleries are Finale Art File [Warehouse 17, La Fuerza Compound, 2241 Pasong Tamo, Makati; 63-2/813-2310; finaleartfile.com], Blanc [2E Crown Tower, 107 H. V. Delacosta, Makati; 632/752-0032; blanc.ph], Hiraya [530 United Nations Ave., Ermita; 63-2/523-3331; hiraya.com] and Galleria Duemila [210 Loring St., Pasay; 63-2/831-9990; galleriaduemila.com]. HALO-HALO HAVENS The quintessential Pinoy dessert is halo-halo, made with candied fruit, beans and pulses, coconut meat, purple yam, leche flan [egg custard] and finely shaved ice, doused with evaporated milk. Try it at Razon’s [22 Jupiter St., Makati; 63-2/899-7841; halo-halos for two P170]. GREAT VALUE

Manila Magic Clockwise from top: Leo Hidalgo at work; pick of the pearls; Salcedo Market; home-made foodstuffs at the market; the entrance to Blanc.

WEEKEND MARKETS On Saturdays, Salcedo Market [Jaime C. Velasquez Park, L. P. Leviste, corner of Tordesillas St., Salcedo Village, Makati; 63-2/899-6509; open 7 A.M.–2 P.M.] has artisanal food products, home-made pâtés and spreads, organic coffee and coco sugar, and Filipino drinking chocolate. On Sundays, Legazpi Market [Ruﬁno St. (formerly Herrera), corner of Legazpi St., Legazpi Village, Makati; 63-2/8996509; open 7:30 A.M.–2 P.M] also does great food, plus organic and eco-friendly product lines. NIGHT OUT If drag queens are your thing, then Club Mwah! Theater Bar [3rd Level, The Venue Tower, 652 Bonifacio Ave., Mandaluyong; 63-2/535-7943; clubmwah.com] is the place for you. Saguijo Café & Bar [7612 Guijo St., San Antonio Village, Makati; 63-2/897-8629; saguijo.com] shows young, raw bands—the place for the new Manila sound. ✚

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E P E N I N S U L A M A N I L A ; © D I A N E 5 5 5 / I S T O C K P H O T O . C O M ; L A R A D AY ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F B L A N C

Leo Hidalgo, Peninsula Manila

ONE-STOP SHOP If all you have is a couple of hours, head straight to 2680 F. B. Harrison St. in Pasay City. It’s a 1940’s compound, and at the back you’ll ﬁnd ﬁve houses occupied by three friends. Albert Avellana shows contemporary Philippine artists at Avellana Art Gallery [House A-19; 63-2/8338357], Eric Paras has fabulous interior pieces at A-11 Design [House A-11; 63-2/832-9972] and Jesus “Jojie” Lloren designs couture [House B-20; 63-2/401-1194].

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| day in the life Top Chef Left: Denis Groison, the new chef de cuisine at Le Beaulieu in Hanoi’s Soﬁtel Legend Metropole. Below: Groison arrives at a market on his motorbike.

■ 7:00 A.M. As Hanoi braces itself

7:00 A.M. Capital Talent. Chef Denis Groison

takes the reins at the Soﬁtel Legend Metropole Hanoi’s Le Beaulieu, the longestrunning French restaurant in Vietnam. BAILEY SEYBOLT digs in for a day

VIETNAM

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against an unseasonal morning chill, chef de cuisine Denis Groison parks his motorbike outside the Sofitel Legend Metropole and steps through the double doors of the hotel’s Le Beaulieu, where French haute cuisine was first introduced to the city in 1901. Groison is here to helm the restaurant following the Metropole’s US$20 million renovation, having cut his culinary teeth in some of Paris’s top kitchens and Singapore’s Raffles Hotel. “For me [Le Beaulieu] was the ideal place to work,” he says, “because of the French history and the international reputation.” ■ 7:15 A.M. Groison pauses in Le Club bar for a quick espresso and a pain au chocolat. Next, he inspects Le Beaulieu’s lavish breakfast buffet: he straightens jam dishes and wipes a stray drop of honey from the table. “If you do a bad display, it doesn’t matter how good the food is,” he says. ■ 8:00 A.M. With breakfast underway, it’s off to a local market by motorbike. Navigating steaming cauldrons and bicycles laden with fresh produce, Groison selects a bushel of herbs for a dish he’s testing on his new spring menu. He also purchases an elegant bamboo salad bowl for the buffet. ■ 9:30 A.M. Back in the office, Groison runs through the day’s events with the head chefs from the hotel’s three restaurants—modern Italian steakhouse Angelina, Vietnamese eatery Spices Garden and Le Beaulieu. ■ 11:00 A.M. At Le Beaulieu, Groison supervises the turnover from breakfast to the lunch buffet, placing the new salad bowl himself. Then, in his office, Photographed by AARON JOEL SANTOS

6:00 P.M. For more ideas on fine dining around Southeast Asia, visit www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com

3:00 P.M. Perfectly Seasoned Clockwise from above: Groison enters Le Club; Groison and Carl Gagnon taste wine and canapés in the hotel’s cellar; the chef adds the ﬁnal touches to a dish at Le Beaulieu.

he takes a phone call with threeMichelin-star chef Jacques Pourcel, who will be visiting Le Beaulieu en route to Shanghai in a week’s time. ■ 11:30 A.M. Lunch officially opens. Guests take refuge from the day’s cold drizzle in the warm, well-lit restaurant, and Groison makes the rounds between Le Beaulieu and Le Club bar. ■ 2:00 P.M. As lunch winds down, Groison prepares two dishes from his new menu—a pan-fried foie gras and a potato-encrusted sea bass—for a tasting by general manager Kai Speth and hotel F&B director Carl Gagnon. They suggest enhancing the foie gras with red radish instead of white. ■ 3:00 P.M. Too busy to eat beforehand, Groison grabs a slice of pizza with prosciutto at Angelina then ducks into Le Club bar to check on the hotel’s daily chocolate buffet. ■ 4:00 P.M. Groison slips into the dessert kitchen to remind his staff to check every plate before it goes out. “Yesterday we sent out a banana split, but we forgot the banana,” he tells them. “It’s embarrassing, no?” Then he heads back to the office to finish up some paperwork. ■ 5:15 P.M. In the main dining room, Groison gathers staff to demonstrate

7:30 P.M. how to flambé a foie gras tableside. He explains that he wants to add more flambé dishes to the new menu: “It’s fun and it’s good to keep the interaction between guests and staff.” ■ 6:00 P.M. Down in the hotel’s wine cellar, he meets with Gagnon to pair lobster canapés with wines for the Epicurean Club event held on the 20th of every month. “It’s a play on the French word for twenty, vingt, and wine, vin,” explains Gagnon. ■ 7:00 P.M. Speth is holding a cocktail party at the hotel bar. Groison slips in to chat with guests, then heads across the courtyard to oversee preparations for a private dinner in the hotel’s new Opera wing. He adds the final touches just as guests start to arrive. ■ 7:30 P.M. With dinner in full swing at Le Beaulieu, Groison ties on his blue

apron and begins directing the ﬂow of orders in the kitchen. He instructs staff to prepare plenty of soup because of the cold weather outside. Sure enough, six orders for onion soup come in. ■ 9:00 P.M. Groison emerges in Le Beaulieu’s dining room to introduce himself to a VIP guest. The Taiwanese businessman—a fan of French wine and gastronomy—stays at the hotel about once a month. He says he looks forward to trying Groison’s new menu and, if he enjoys it, dining at Le Beaulieu more often. ■ 9:45 P.M. As the last guests trickle out of the restaurant, Groison briefs the kitchen’s evening shift about the next day’s breakfast. ■ 10:30 P.M. Groison hangs up his apron and heads home on his motorbike to a well-deserved dinner. ✚

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| check-in

Compact Comfort From below: Misaaki Hiromura’s quirky graphics pepper 9 Hours; the capsules at the hotel.

■ 9 HOURS Opened last December in downtown Kyoto, 9 Hours (88 Teianmaeno-cho Shijo Teramachi, Shimogyo-ku; 81-75/353-9005; 9hours.jp; capsule from ¥4,900) breaks the mold of conventional kapuseru hoteru, or capsule hotels, a ﬁxture in Japan’s cities since architect Kisho Kurokawa unveiled the ﬁrst one in Osaka in the late 1970’s as a response to urban crowding. The nine-story property offers 125 pods, and though its name hints at a no-frills stay— seven hours to sleep, one hour to shower and prep, one hour to relax—the interior, courtesy of Design Studio S’s Fumie Shibata, boasts a black-and-white color scheme, while adornments like graphic designer Masaaki Hiromura’s minimalist icons and Panasonic control panels add a distinctly chic veneer.

Keisuke Yui, whose Tokyo-based company Cubic runs 9 Hours, bristles at the notion that he’s created the world’s ﬁrst boutique capsule hotel. “It’s a practical sleeping hub for people who don’t see a hotel as a destination,” he says. Indeed, the place falls somewhere between a hotel and a hostel, with compact, dimly illuminated “rooms” as wide as a single bed—T+L crawled in and could sit up comfortably, with space to spare. Since the pods are just for sleeping, you won’t ﬁnd a TV, and eating and chatting on the phone are verboten. Still, they offer a decent night’s slumber for a fraction of what you’d pay at other Japan hotels—a worthwhile experience in our book. T+L TIP Pods don’t come with doors, only nylon blinds, so consider bringing earplugs.—K E N J I H A L L

Kyoto Redux. These three outstanding openings—a futuristic

capsule hotel, a luxe rural retreat and an organic countryside inn— bridge old and new in Japan’s former imperial capital

CO U RT E SY O F N ACA SA & PA RT N E R S ( 2 )

JAPAN

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■ HOSHINOYA On the banks of the Ooigawa River sits the luxurious Hoshinoya (Genrokuzancho 11-2, Arashiyama, Nishikyo-ku; 81-75/871-0001; kyoto. hoshinoya.com; doubles from ¥70,000), whose wood-frame buildings and beautifully landscaped grounds offer a taste of old Kyoto with a contemporary twist. Built to showcase the gorge’s spectacular panorama, it was originally the retreat of a 16th-century shipping merchant, and became a ryokan, or traditional inn, in 1897. After an extensive two-year renovation, Hoshinoya reopened its doors six months ago with 25 spacious rooms that fuse traditional Japanese elements— shoji-inflected partitions; rare woods—with creature comforts like heated floors, plush raised beds and even CD players (a shared library lounge offers 24-hour Internet access). There are nine room types, each with its own personality: we stayed in the Tsukihashi Maisonette, an airy suite with pine-cedar sofas on tatami mats, a private study and, on the walls, ethereal karakami block-printed paper from Kyoto wood-design firm Maruni. As for food, rather than setting rigid meal times and serving only a fixed kaiseki menu like most ryokan, Hoshinoya’s chefs prepare à la carte Japanese and French delicacies at the behest of guests—don’t miss the soft bamboo shoots, the succulent sea bream and the Kyoto-style sesame tofu. Wind down in the low-lit communal bath area, made of Japanese cypress with black stone on the walls and floor, an ideal space for relaxation and meditation. T+L TIP For a grand entrance, be sure to arrive by riverboat from the Togetsukyo bridge in Kyoto’s historic Arashiyama district, beloved by locals for its cherry blossoms.—T I M H O R N YA K ■ YOSHIMIZU Ayabe is a part of Kyoto few travelers reach, where emerald rice fields checker valleys thick with deer and boar before the mountains tumble down to the Sea of Japan. A half-hour drive in a car rented at Ayabe Station brings you to Yoshimizu (Mutsuyoricho 10, Ayabe; 81-773/21-4777; yoshimizu.com; ¥10,500 per person including two meals), a century-old thatched-roof farmhouse in the hills of Kanbayashi, reborn last year as an organic inn. Furnishings are spare—you’ll

sleep on a futon over tatami—and relaxation is more communal than private, but that doesn’t detract from the property’s charm, particularly when it comes to dining. Here, guests rub shoulders over perfectly simmered tofu nabe, or hot pot, served with rice, mountain greens and lots of sake around the two large ﬂoor hearths. Everything on the menu is organically grown from surrounding ﬁelds that spread across the valley to the local onsen, or hot spring. Owner Yoshimi Nakagawa, who also runs organic inns in Tokyo’s Ginza and Kyoto’s Maruyama districts, can arrange tours of nearby farmhouses, splendidly renovated by Japanese looking for a new life in the countryside. With only the chirping of crickets and frogs at night, the city seems a world away. T+L TIP Kyoto’s Sagano Romantic Train (sagano-kanko.co.jp), a vintage diesel locomotive offering some of Japan’s most scenic views, runs close to both Hoshinoya and the JR Sanin line leading to Ayabe, though be prepared for a bracing journey.—T. H . ✚

Past Continuous From top: Hoshinoya blends traditional ryokan elements with modern touches; the hotel library offers books and Internet access; Yoshimizu harks back to a bygone era.

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I N S E T P H O T O : C O U R T E SY O F T H E M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L H O T E L G R O U P ; J A PA N E S E A N T I Q U E S TA I R C A S E : S H I B U I H O M E ; R E D L A N T E R N S : P E A R L R I V E R M A R T ; A S S O C I AT E FA S H I O N E D I T O R : C AT H E R I N E C R AT E ; M A K E U P : B R I A N D U P R E Y F O R D I O R A T J U D Y C A S E Y, I N C . ; H A I R : K E V I N W O O N F O R W O O N S A L O N A T J E D R O O T , I N C . ; S E T D E S I G N E R : H E A T H E R C H O N T O S ; M O D E L : A L E S S I A P I O V A N F O R N E X T M O D E L S ;

S P O T L I G H T

StylishTraveler

. . . 6 4

MANDARIN ORIENTAL BANGKOK

Floral jacquard sheath dress, Tibi; Lucite earrings and bangles, Alexis Bittar; patent leather clutch, Giorgio Armani; gold leather sandals, Brian Atwood.

What is it about a classic hotel that has us wanting to make a style statement? Here, four looks for summer and the places that inspired them. Photographed by ARTHUR BELEBEAU Styled by MIMI LOMBARDO

DRESSING ROOMS

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TO SUBSCRIBE, see our special offer on page 88. For more information e-mail info@travelandleisuresea.com Contact us at Circulation Department, Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia, Media Transasia (Thailand) Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Klong Toey Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand

BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL

LOS ANGELES

I N S E T P H O T O : C O U R T E S Y O F T H E B E V E R LY H I L L S H O T E L , O N E O F T H E D O R C H E S T E R C O L L E C T I O N ; LOUNGE CHAIR: ABC CARPET AND HOME, INC.

Silk blouse and wide-leg trousers, Armani Collezioni; sunglasses, Armani Exchange; Lucite earrings and cuff, Alexis Bittar; silk satin scarf, Echo; lizard belt, Kara Ross; calfskin clutch, Kate Moss for Longchamp; platform shoes, Devi Kroell.

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THE DELANO

SOUTH BEACH

I N S E T P H O T O : C O U R T E S Y O F M O R G A N S H O T E L G R O U P. T H I S PA G E : P H I L I P P E S TA R C K L A C H A I S E : V I T R A ; R O SY A N G E L I S L I G H T: L E E ’ S A R T S H O P

Silk ribbed top, Thakoon; jeans, Joe’s Jeans; sunglasses, Dior; Lucite earrings, Alexis Bittar; enamel link necklaces, Kara by Kara Ross; resin bracelet, Giorgio Armani; leather bag, Devi Kroell; satin sandals, D&G.

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HĂ&#x201D;TEL LE BRISTOL PARIS

I N S E T P H O T O : C O U R T E SY O F T H E B R I S T O L H O T E L . TA P E S T R I E S : A B C C A R P E T A N D H O M E , I N C . ; S I LV E R T E A S E T : C H R I S T O F L E ; C H A I R : L A R S B O L A N D E R ; T E A C A R T : P A S C A L B O Y E R G A L L E R Y

Silk jacquard top, Moschino; cottonblend pencil skirt, Dolce & Gabbana; onyx cabochon and smoky quartz earrings, Asha by ADM; chain necklace and bracelet link watch, D&G; silver cuff, David Yurman; calfskin bag, Bulgari; leather gloves, LaCrasia; leather sandals with silk embroidery, Brian Atwood.

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stylish traveler

| spotlight

RED STARS RISING

Gutsy, fresh-faced and fueled by ambition, China’s up-and-coming fashion designers are turning the Middle Kingdom into a world center for style. T+L picks three hot young talents to watch out for. By JEN LIN-LIU

CHINA

Fresh Cuts From top: One of Xander Zhou’s androgynous designs; Zhou with an unusual accessory; a mood board in his studio.

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BEIJING DESIGNER X ANDER ZHOU DOESN’T FIT INTO ANY neat box, and neither do his clothes. When asked which gender he prefers to design for, Zhou says, “I don’t believe clothes should have a sex. Men or women can wear any of my designs.” Quizzed on whether he prefers to design daywear or eveningwear, he replies, “I don’t believe in dividing my clothes into either category. They are always stylish and never fit any particular trend.” Classic and unisex, Zhou’s designs include wool crepe suits, boxy jackets and tuxedo shirts that are as fitting on women as they are on men, who model his clothes most of the time. Soon, Zhou will receive a boost from a powerful Chinese media mogul named Hong Huang, who plans to open a store this summer in Sanlitun featuring Zhou’s unconventional designs, along with selections from some of her other favorite designers. In the meantime, fashion mavens can find Zhou at work at his studio in the capital’s central business district, where his clothes retail from RMB1,000 to RMB30,000. The 28-year-old baby-faced design talent was born in Manchuria and spent six years in the Netherlands studying fashion in The Hague, learning Dutch, and apprenticing under Dutch designer Jeroen Van Tuyl. Upon returning to China in 2007 to settle in Beijing, he set up his own fashion label and now counts Chinese celebrities and the fi lmmaker Oliver Stone among his clients. Zhou’s über-fashionable persona—he resembles a Chinese version of the singer Prince—belies his down-home and modest attitude toward success. “I came back to China at a very good time when the fashion media, after years of looking at international designers, was interested in supporting young Chinese designers.” He has also found China to be a dynamic place for his career, because unlike Europe, he says, “where everything stays the same, China is changing so quickly that there are unlimited possibilities. You never know what will happen tomorrow.” 86-1391/0311724; xanderzhou.com; studio open by appointment only. Call for address details.

F RO M TO P : CO U RT ESY O F X A N D E R Z H O U ( 2 ) ; JAS P E R JA M ES

Xander Zhou

Ready-to-Wear Right: At Lu 12.28 in Sanlitun. Left: The designer’s wearable fashions. Below: Liu Lu poses in her bright boutique.

JASPER JAMES (3)

Liu Lu IN LU 12.28, A BRIGHT BOUTIQUE IN THE HEART OF Beijing’s trendy Sanlitun, 28-year-old fashion designer Liu Lu can often be seen showing off her designs to customers, who range from Chinese celebrities to international diplomats. She’s no stranger to dealing with foreigners: she lived abroad for almost a decade before returning to Beijing to embrace her Chinese heritage—and take advantage of her homeland’s cheaper costs of doing business. A Beijing native, Liu moved to Lausanne, Switzerland, to attend boarding school at 16. While in Paris on a school trip, she fell in love with boutique-shopping culture—a trend just emerging in Beijing—and decided on a whim to pursue a career in fashion. After graduating from Parsons School of Design in Paris and New York, she worked brieﬂy for G. K. Reid, a stylist to celebrities like Puff Daddy and Beyonce. Priced between RMB1,000 to RMB8,000, Liu’s clothes straddle the gap between China’s spendy haute couture and ready-to-wear chains like H&M and Zara that have recently set up in the country. In addition to the Lu 12.28 brand, she has also launched a venture with Swarovski to help design crystal-made shoes, which are available in her boutique. Though she only established Lu 12.28 two years ago, her style has evolved dramatically to include practical items for daily wear and fun nights on the town. While an early collection included heavy wool coats, dresses and skirts with exaggerated shapes reminiscent of the Jetsons, her designs this spring featured light, ephemeral dresses in gray and blue inspired by Greek goddesses. “I’m trying to connect fashion to real people,” she says. “It shouldn’t be too beyond reality.” 3rd Floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Bei Jie, Beijing; 86-10/52086105. »

stylish traveler

| spotlight

STYLE HUNTING China is booming with fun, fresh, utterly original designs. Below, T+L gives you the inside scoop on where to track them down.

BEIJING NAN LUOGU XIANG This hutong in Beijing’s former imperial quarter hosts retro-hip T-shirt shop Plastered (61 Nan Luogu Xiang; 86-1348/8848855; plasteredtshirts.com) and gift store Esydragon (19 Nan Luogu Xiang; 86-10/8401-1516), which sells original housewares. NALI PATIO In the middle of hip Sanlitun, this small outdoor mall boasts several ﬂoors of fashion shops, including Lu 12.28 and Zemo Elysée (1st Floor, 81 Sanlitun Bei Jie; 8610/5208-6070). 798 ART DISTRICT Along with high-end art galleries, you can also ﬁnd petite boutiques bursting with original designer housewares and furniture. Look out for Dara (2 Jiuxianqiao Lu; 86-10/5978-9701; dara.com.cn) and Fei Space (4 Jiuxianqiao Lu; 86-10/5978-9580).

Lu Kun AT JUST 29 YEARS OLD, LU KUN IS ALREADY A VETERAN OF SHANGHAI’S FASHION scene, having made clothes for a decade. His designs have the maturity to prove it: think wool dresses with structured, exposed backs; silky, high-collared blouses; and bustier-style dresses lined with whimsical yet sophisticated black taffeta. “Bitchy” and “slutty” are two of Lu’s preferred words—and while his clothes are neither, his edgy personality streak is evident in his designs. A homegrown talent inspired by Gianni Versace, Lu trained at a local vocational high school before working for fashion brand Replay and teaching at Shanghai’s LaSalle International Fashion School. At 23, he was chosen by Three on the Bund, a high-proﬁle luxury development of restaurants on Shanghai’s riverfront, to design the establishment’s staff uniforms. These days, Lu designs out of his eponymous boutique shop, formerly known as Mirror Studio, where he has built up a steady clientele that includes wealthy Shanghainese, American staff members of Capitol Hill and, of late, Paris Hilton, who stopped by on a recent visit for a dress inspired by a traditional high-collared qipao. “That was... interesting,” he says, choosing to focus on the gown rather than on the larger-than-life celebrity. “We made [Hilton] a Chinese style with a different twist. No matter how hard I try to erase the Chinese in my designs, it’s still there.” Lu is not beyond tailoring his designs to customers who sport healthy wallets—his dresses come with hefty pricetags between RMB6,000 and RMB40,000. That may be part of his survival strategy as a young designer in China, but Lu relishes his youthfulness despite its challenges. “Being young gives me a lot of conﬁdence because I can do what older people can’t,” he says. “And being young lets you free your mind.” Room 527, 92 Huang Jia Que Lu, Shanghai; 86-21/6345-1120; boutique open by appointment only. ✚

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CO U RT ESY O F LU KU N ( 4 )

SHANGHAI TAIKANG LU It began as a small art district, but has since blossomed into a series of preserved alleyways that feature independent fashion boutiques like Insh (200 Taikang Lu; 86-21/6466-5249; insh.com. cn) and Jooi (Studio 201, Lane 3, 210 Taikang Lu; 86-21/6473-6193; www.jooi.com) in the International Artist Factory.

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T+L Journal OBSESSIONS 74 DRIVING 79 SPECIAL REPORT 84

LAOS

Riches of

Laos In Luang Prabang, a former royal city and monastic center, GUY TREBAY revels in the everyday rhythms still found in its winding lanes, ancient temples and buzzing markets. Photographed by MARTIN REEVES Wat Xieng Thongâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tree of Life mural. Inset: Inside the Pak Ou Caves.

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| getaway

Laid-back Laos Clockwise from right: The serene grounds of Wat Aham; an image of Buddha in the undergrowth on Mount Phousi; the twist and turns of the muddy Mekong River; above Wat Phousi.

ONSIDER THE DRAGONFLY,” SAID NITHAKHONG Somsanith, erstwhile prince of an old lineage in Laos. On a warm day in the ancient royal capital of Luang Prabang, the two of us were seated on the wood veranda of a French-colonial villa. Nearby, in one of the many collect ponds that demarcate neighborhoods in this city of 103,000, a squadron of iridescent insects dive-bombed a cloud of pesky gnats. The dragonﬂy, Somsanith said, is his emblem, the creature he chose as a motif in his art. Among the last practitioners of the royal craft of gold embroidery, Somsanith is, like most Lao, a Theravada Buddhist. His work, the panels he makes and sells at galleries here and in Paris, is intricately patterned with glittering insects. And his beliefs are patterned with the animism that in the lives of most Lao meshes the physical and the spiritual worlds. “I choose this insect because it is ephemeral and at the same time very solid, a very Buddhist concept, that the world is real but also an illusion,” said the prince, as dragonﬂies zigzagged past us in a shimmering blur. “The only real thing is death,” he went on with an implacable half smile. “But we won’t think about that now.” Luang Prabang is a rare place in Asia these days—still a calm and somnolent city, a town of narrow lanes and polychrome temples and worn timber houses and scabbed colonial colonnades, all set along a peninsular thumb that juts toward a bend in the Mekong River and is surrounded

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Monks are the animating FORCE of the city, the engine whose sound is the hum of their prayers

by lush mountains that are like palisades shutting out the wider world. Now a town that for decades was mainly a haunt of backpackers has accelerated its transition to a high-end destination. But, alongside guesthouses where adequate lodging can be had for US$10 (including filtered water and a complimentary banana), new luxury hotels have sprung up with suites featuring private plunge pools and staff-to-guest ratios that help account for tariffs of US$800 a night. “The key to understanding Luang Prabang is the atmosphere and the culture,” Trina Dingler-Ebert, marketing director at Amanresorts, the group behind Amantaka, told me. At that precise moment I did not see what it was about Luang Prabang that might lure well-heeled travelers to this city and away from the established comforts of locales and monuments like Angkor Wat. Despite Luang Prabang’s fabled reputation, it had seemed underwhelming at first glance. “You have to spend time here to get it,” Dingler-Ebert remarked. And, as it happened, she was correct. “We think most people should stay a week here and know that they won’t,” Dingler-Ebert said and, at the time, I felt that two days would be more than enough. But then two days became three. Three dissolved into four. My resolve to leave Luang Prabang at all began to wane as I idled through town, drank sweetened Lao coffee with my French baguette at breakfast, mooched around the city’s many temples and drifted past the night-market stalls. Hmong tribespeople trek down from the mountains to sell their handloomed indigos and sophisticated patchwork here and, increasingly, the cheap Chinese copies of those special crafts that they purchase from middlemen jobbers along the way. It is certainly true that the mass tourism some locals like Prince Somsanith tend to decry is coming. The city I found was dozy and small enough to cover on foot in a day or two but best experienced over the course of a week. Like the mandalas some Buddhists use as aids to meditation, Luang Prabang turns out to be a city of recurrent patterns, of images and motifs explored and repeated, refined across centuries and with the clear-cut goal of hastening enlightenment. It was for centuries a royal city, but just as important was its role as a monastic center. Even now the temple complexes are active centers of worship and learning. The saffron-robed monks you see everywhere in town are more than local color. They are the animating force of the city, the engine whose sound is the always-audible hum of their prayers. The spatial and the architectural rhythms of Luang Prabang were established during the six centuries before the Communists dissolved the monarchy in 1975, imprisoning the royals in a remote re-education camp and setting up their own government in what had long been the royal » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

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| getaway

I visited the Sunday FOOD market to test an assertion by a pedicab driver that ‘the Lao will eat anything’

capital. The buildings by and large are limited to temples, villas, warehouses and riverside shacks. The simple outlines—the swooping volutes of the temple eaves; the blocky toy shapes of the colonial structures; the toothpick verticality of the bamboo-walled eating houses—are repeated again and again until the repetition insinuates itself into one’s consciousness. The city’s 58 temples and the Royal Palace are ﬁlled with the requisite riches: thousands of gilded Buddhas (of mixed provenance and in varied states of disrepair), lacquered chariots and boats, and silver bowls for alms. The palace itself is a cruciform building that was constructed in 1904 for a francophone king who fathered 50 children and that is perhaps most famous for containing the gold Khmer Buddha that lends the city its name. As it turns out, the golden icon, tucked in a dim shrine behind painted security bars, is hard to see and in any case may well be a copy or fake. Of greater interest to me were the spartan royal apartments and the National Museum containing a collection of oddball artifacts, among them a fragment of moon rock presented, in a moment of oblivious irony, to the Lao people by their American “friends” as a souvenir of Apollo 17. It is estimated that, from 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped more than 2 million tons of ordnance over Laos during 580,000 bombing missions, the equivalent of a planeload of bombs every eight minutes for nine years. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Luang Prabang may be, in the words of one guide, “littered with graceful Lao timber dwellings, colonial colonnades and grandiose stairways.” It is also littered with rusting bombshells repurposed as markers and planters, and some of the latter can be found along the famous 328-step stair up to the peak of sacred Phousi. On the dusky evening when I huffed my way up Phousi, I passed a heavily rouged drag queen selling nuts in paper packets; bomb casings spilling over with frowsy pink bougainvillea; and village women hawking the caged songbirds one always ﬁnds at Buddhist sites. NOT BUY ALL ANIMALS FROM LOCALS BECAUSE IT WILL ENCOURAGE THEM TO HUNTER read a sign I had seen that morning at the Pak Ou caves, two hours upriver from Luang Prabang. High above the water, along steep steps cut into the pocked limestone cliffs, there are caves in which for centuries the faithful have placed Buddha statues of all sorts and sizes. At bends on the stairs to the caves, sharp-eyed hawkers sheltered beneath tamarind trees and proffered cages containing sad obligatory good-luck birds. That evening I forced some of the American dollars that are a parallel currency in Laos through a slot in a box with a sign that read YOUR DONATION HELP MAINTENANCE SHRINE. It was nearing sunset when I reached the top of Phousi. Tourists were sprawled along the stepped walls of the shrine,

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their eyes and their lenses trained on a bladed disc slicing its way through a vermilion sky. The psychedelic atmospherics owed to the season, I was informed, but whether or not it is true that the lurid sunset was caused by farmers burning stubble in their fields and was not instead the aftermath of slash-and-burn deforestation, I never learned. My stomach was talking. It reminded me that dinner was approaching and that I had a reservation at L’Eléphant. That morning I had visited the Sunday food market to test an assertion made by a pedicab driver that “the Lao will eat anything,” not excluding, it must be said, dog. I saw no smoked dog at the market, but there was—among the stalks of bananas and bags of marigold petals and riverweed in slick mounds and pyramids of fiery chilies and neatly arrayed trays of roast beetle and hunks of honeycomb—a single splayed and leathery-looking creature that I later discovered was smoked fox. Fox appears nowhere on the menu of L’Eléphant, which is run by an expatriate Frenchman and his Lao partner. Because I detest gastro-porn almost as much as the saccharine delirium of online dating, I will say this about my experience: If you are lucky enough to take even one meal at L’Eléphant, you will know that you have accumulated blessings, in this life if not all the preceding ones. That night I selected from a tasting menu of local specialties, and dined on betel-leaf soup with a confetti of minced beef; steamed pork stuffed in lemongrass stalks; chicken salad with local herbs and roasted rice powder; Mekong perch and Kaffir lime leaves steamed in a banana leaf; riverweed sautéed with sesame seed; quail and forest mushrooms and sticky rice. There was a decent white Burgundy to wash it all down. There was pineapple ice cream and, as a Gallic fillip, tuiles. The bill, with wine, came to about US$30. I decided I could happily eat at L’Eléphant every week for the rest of my life. I took the long way home from L’Eléphant to my hotel, La Résidence Phou Vao, walking the tip of the peninsula where Wat Xieng Thong, the most sublime of the city’s temples and the one most critical to its UNESCO designation, sits at the head of a broad flight of steps leading down to the Mekong. Strolling the dimly lighted lanes, with the slow-moving river on my left, I thought about a remark Somsanith made when we met. In Luang Prabang, he said, the often exalted beauty and harmony and scale of the built world is intended not so much to dazzle as to remind us of our own transience. “Appreciate just one moment, just one instant,” he said, invoking the mindfulness that is a core Buddhist precept. “All is ephemeral. This is the Lao concept, the Lao way.” ✚

Sublime City Above: Despite its popularity, Luang Prabang remains a town of temples and trees. Opposite, from top: Details in the images of Buddha; casting a fishing net along the Mekong.

GUIDE TO LUANG PRABANG WHERE TO STAY Amantaka 55/53 Kingkitsarath Rd., Ban Thongchaleun St.; 856-71/860-333; amanresorts. com; doubles from US$600. La Résidence Phou Vao Phou Vao; 856-71/212-5303; residencephouvao.com; doubles from US$231. 3 Nagas A 15-room boutique hotel, with traditional Lao details (clay tile roofs; teak ﬂoors) and an excellent fusion restaurant. Sakkaline Rd., Ban Vat Nong; 856-71/253-888; alilahotels.com; doubles from US$125. GREAT VALUE

WHERE TO EAT L’Eléphant Ban Vat Nong; 85671/252-482; dinner for two US$75. Tamarind This husbandand-wife–owned spot

serves authentic Lao cuisine. Ban Vat Nong; 856-20/777-0484; dinner for two US$25. WHERE TO SHOP Caruso Lao Home Craft Owner Sandra Yuck sells quality silk brocades and Western-inspired tableware made from Lao woods. 60 Sakkaline Rd.; 856-71/254-574; carusolao.com. Ock Pop Tok A wonderful textile boutique; owners Joanna Smith and Veomanee Duangdala will ship purchases abroad. 73-75 Ban Vat Nong; 856-71/253-219; ockpoptok.com. Silver Smith Work by the area’s most notable silversmith, Phothisack Rattanakone, is available here. Ban Xieng Mouane Rd.; 856-71/212-654.

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t+l journal | obsessions

Answer Machines

Think of the strangest question you can for a hotel concierge and not only is it likely that someone, somewhere has already asked it, but chances are the reply was quick and correct. By CHRISTOPHER KUCWAY. Illustrated by WASINEE CHANTAKORN 74

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HEN IT COMES TO BIZARRE

concierge requests, it would make perfect sense for a character like Salvador Dalí to top the list. On his visits to Paris in the 1930’s, the painter would book himself into the Hotel Meurice for a month at a time. Legend has it that, during one stay, in all seriousness he asked staff at the hotel to catch ﬂies for him across the street in the Jardin des Tuileries. Turns out, the surrealist arrived at the posh address with a pair of pet ocelots—they’re medium-sized yellow cats with black spots, in case you were wondering—who just happened to be a tad, let’s say, peckish. Dalí’s demands were apparently met, though not surprisingly, once he left, the hotel had to completely repaint his suite and redo the carpet. Strange, yes, but in this age of information overload, where tweets, hits and pokes are all considered completely normal to your average keyboard-wielding adult, queries aimed at the hotel concierge haven’t dulled in the slightest. If anything—there’s only one way of putting this, so hit me with your pet ocelot if you must—they’ve become even more surreal. Hotel guests have cottoned on to the value of their friendly concierge. We’re not talking about the garden-variety requests: thousands of roses to ﬁll a hotel room in a “Will you marry me?” moment, or snaring a table at a popular restaurant—though the Mandarin Oriental’s Giovanni Valenti once made reservations for someone in Rome. Thing is, Valenti was at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong at the time, and the dialing diner, who was in Italy, happened to have his number. So why not ask someone who can get results? These days the barrage of questions a concierge faces is even beyond, say, the demand for extra security because a guest thinks there are ghosts around her villa (One&Only Reethi Rah in the Maldives) or a last-minute plea for someone to belt out a rendition of “Happy Birthday” while dressed as a potato. A spud? Please. No, what we’re talking about involves the truly eccentric. Some requests, often the simplest, can cause a concierge the most frustration. Bizarre best describes the query from a Brazilian couple headed to Sydney’s Nikko Hotel Potts Point. The wealthy duo called in advance, asking that the suite they booked be lit only with red candles, no natural or electrical lighting. Fair enough. But that’s when things veered toward the peculiar: they also asked that a live lamb be waiting in the room when they arrived. Before you start counting sheep, know that the couple also required a large butcher’s knife. Not exactly

chocolate-on-the-pillow kind of guests. With a little detective work—actually, hundreds of phone calls around Australia and New Zealand—the hotel’s chef concierge Jorge Sousa discovered that, in Australia, slaughtering an animal is, by law, something best left to a licensed professional in an appropriate location. That means on a farm. Not in a hotel room. At the end of the day, the guests accepted this verdict, stayed two weeks in beautiful Sydney where lamb is usually served on a plate, and returned to Brazil, where they promptly killed a young sheep at a farm in the south of the country. Why? All because a local witch had told them to do so within 60 days or their lives would be in danger. While the demands a concierge faces have changed, the rules haven’t. Any arranger worth his or her salt will never do anything illegal—like, oh

Any arranger worth his or her salt will NEVER do anything illegal—like, oh say, ﬁnd replacement parts for an AK-47, a request in Los Angeles

say, find replacement parts for an AK-47, a request that surfaced at a well-known Los Angeles hotel— anything immoral or, as one Hong Kong–based answer man pointed out, anything outside the laws of physics. Yet few spells behind a concierge desk are ever normal. Staff field anywhere from a handful to hundreds of requests each day, some of which are solvable in minutes, others that can take months to sort. And since time is always of the essence, a concierge is only as good as his or her contacts. Some innocent requests start out as worryingly cryptic. Once Akane Tanaka, the chef concierge at the Peninsula Tokyo, determined that there was no violent element to one Swiss guest’s request for an original samurai sword, she set out in search of a custom-made blade. Recognizing the guest’s love of Japanese traditions, Tanaka also enrolled him in a dojo where he spent eight hours learning swordfighting moves. His own blade is being crafted and will be shipped to Switzerland within a year or two. Culture, of course, invades our every move when we travel. Some love a place, returning constantly » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

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t+l journal | obsessions to absorb the feel of the street, eat good food, take in the arts. Others among us go once, and decide to bring it all back home like some oversized postcard. We’re not talking here about the knock-off watches sold along Hong Kong’s Nathan Road or that stiff made-to-measure suit from Bangkok’s legend in his own sign, Peter Armani. No, think bigger. Italian Renaissance big. At the Four Seasons in Florence, one art-loving American guest requested an exact, full-scale copy of Michelangelo’s Bacchus. After ﬁnding a capable sculptor and outlining the project over several meetings—in the 15th century, Michelangelo toiled on his original marble creation for more than a year—a replica was commissioned. The two-meter-tall copy is being duly chiseled and will be delivered in a wooden crate to California once it’s ﬁnished.

One guest demanded front-row tickets to the singles ﬁnals at the Australian Open. The problem was that the request came as quickly as a SLICED Federer serve

When something completely unwieldy—at least something that can be taken apart—has to be there the next day, everyone knows to call FedEx. That’s what Javier Loureiro, the head concierge at another Four Seasons, this one in Washington, D.C., did. Loureiro had a Ducati motorcycle disassembled and sent by courier overnight from San Diego to the U.S. capital. “I’ve been doing this so long, even the extraordinary becomes routine,” says the 30-year veteran of the concierge desk. The guest rode it once, before the bike—another Italian work of art, come to think of it—sat in storage for six months. Then, out of the blue, came the demand that it be shipped overnight to Seattle. Says Loureiro: “Fortunately, that’s the last I saw of it.” Current events cross the desk too. Most recently, a high-end Dublin hotel noticed that Iceland’s volcanic disruption bumped up the number of guests requesting propeller planes or helicopters. And in the ﬁrst week after the iPad launch, the Peninsula Beverly Hills concierge desk reports that it purchased 17 of the devices for hotel guests. 76

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More mainstream are requests for tickets to sporting events. But even those can raise an eyebrow or two. Just ask Andrew Natoli, the chef concierge at the Sofitel Melbourne. In 2007, one guest demanded four front-row tickets to the men’s singles finals at the Australian Open to see Roger Federer battling Fernando González for the Grand Slam title. Fine, if expensive. The problem was that the request came as quickly as a sliced Federer serve, only hours before the match. Through his contacts, Natoli finagled four tickets. Then the guest decided he didn’t want the two couples sitting together, so he cancelled his request. As quickly as he had purchased the four seats, Natoli was able to resell them. Federer won in straight sets, the two couples avoided each other and Natoli went back behind his desk in the lobby. Not all demands are all that difficult to meet. It’s the reason behind them that’s hard to fathom. Falling into that gray area is the guest who asked for chocolate body paint and a pair of disposable overalls—one of those moments where you have to marvel at the abilities of a good concierge to remain utterly, resolutely expressionless. As you would expect at the Four Seasons Resort Whistler in Canada, little surprises chef concierge Hana Lynn when it comes to winter-related requests. Book a helicopter tour for two to a nearby glacier? Not a problem. Until, that is, the couple returned. They arrived lugging a five-kilogram cube of ice in a soggy brown box, their very own piece of the glacier they wanted to send home. In South Carolina. Shocked but not showing it, Lynn went back to work, arranging for a freezer box to ship—and preserve—the block of ice more than 4,000 kilometers to the far side of the continent. Finally, there’s the money-can-buy-anything crowd. Plenty are the tales of a sheik or a royal wanting a shopping mall open at 2 A.M. for his family’s retail therapy. A twist on this took place at a resort in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, on a booking for a horseback-riding trip. Now, if you happen to be the eight-year-old son of an African princess, you’d be forgiven for wanting a parrot perched on your shoulder while astride a horse, no? After all, there are parrots swooping through a nearby forest, so having one of your own is hardly absurd. Enter the concierge who met the odd demand by tracking down someone who trains parrots. As with so many of these tales, the story didn’t end there. Said princess took such a shine to the bird that she hired a private jet to fly it back to Africa. Money or intrusive customs agents were obviously no object. Kind of leaves Salvador Dalí in the dust now, doesn’t it? ✚

driving | t+l journal The beach outside the Hotel Punta Est, in Finale Ligure.

ITALY

The Unsung Riviera Only Italians seem to have discovered the colorful villages and tranquil beaches of Liguria’s Riviera di Ponente. MARIA SHOLLENBARGER hits the Via Aurelia for a languorous coastal drive. Photographed by DAVID CICCONI

ANFOSSI ISN’T WIDELY KNOWN AS the Basil King of Italy—that’s just a sobriquet my friends and I came up with for him—but his farm, Azienda Agraria Anfossi, just inland from Albenga, is a veritable ﬁefdom of basil, whose aroma beckons from 400 meters away. Anfossi is the Albenga region’s largest producer of fresh basil and basil products, including an organic pesto that will ruin you for any other. I was introduced to him by his daughter, an acquaintance from London. The day we » ARIO

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t+l journal | driving

A Mediterranean view from the upper reaches of Cervo, left; the dining room at Guja, in Alassio, right.

visit, the fiftysomething Anfossi is wearing plaid stovepipe pants, a cashmere polo and blue leather driving shoes. (His ride: a Maserati Quattroporte.) With sideburns that fall somewhere between Easy Rider and Master and Commander, Anfossi cuts an idiosyncratic figure: a little bit farmer, a little bit dandy. I find him delightful—and surprising. But then, I hadn’t expected much from this part of Liguria, which, until now, I’d pegged as the Riviera That Glamour Forgot. Liguria’s Riviera di Ponente—“of the setting sun”— stretches from Genoa westward to the French border; its name is an apt moniker for a once-favored seaside playground long since faded from glory. Its neighbor to the east, Riviera di Levante (“of the rising sun”), holds the regional monopoly on luxury and sophistication, with Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli and Rapallo strung like expensive jewels along the coast. It’s unlikely that i signori Dolce and Gabbana, who own a waterfront villa near Portofino, would steer their Codecasa yacht anywhere near the Ponente. So when two London friends (one of whom had spent time in the Ponente as a teenage au pair) invited me to join them on holiday here, I was skeptical. But as I learned over a three-day, 100-kilometer drive, this little-sung coast possesses a charm distinct from its fabulous eastern counterpart. If the Levante is northern Italy’s Hamptons, the Ponente is akin to Long Island’s North Fork: a bastion of middle-class normalcy. The mostly Piedmontese families who summer here have been renting the same houses and booking the same beach-club sun beds since those 80

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silver-haired bisnonni were toddlers playing in the fine white Ligurian sand. 1 DAY MENTON TO CERVO 1 Italians didn’t always have the run of this place. From the mid 19th century to the early 20th, the Ponente hosted a Grand Tour procession of heat- and color-starved Brits, who were besotted with its mix of Côte d’Azur gentility and Italian expansiveness and ease. Driving east along the precipitous road from Menton, we pass through towns that have retained varying degrees of charm: Bordighera in particular is lovely, with its tall Liberty façades and innumerable gardens, notably those of the nearby Villa Hanbury, established in 1867. Today, however, most foreigners know this part of Liguria—if they know it at all— for the town of San Remo, which every February hosts the San Remo Music Festival, a five-day bacchanal of klieg-lit Eurodisco sets. But as we stroll through San Remo and its neighbor, Imperia, we see traces of the allure that first drew travelers here a century ago: the profusion of bougainvillea and date palms, the exotic palette of the palaces—biscuit yellow and sorbet orange—facing the cerulean Mediterranean and climbing the hills behind the seafront. From Imperia, we make our way along the SS1, a.k.a. the Via Aurelia, built by the Romans and extending all the way from Lazio into what was then deepest Gaul. Past Diano Marina, the road cuts over a bluff with deep ravines on one side and the lapping sea on the other; sea scrub and

The Piazza Garibaldi, in Finalborgo, left; the cathedral of San Giovanni Battista, in Cervo, right.

wildflowers cling to the slopes. Soon we arrive at the seaside borgo of Cervo, which has not significantly changed since the 17th century. The lanes are so narrow we can brush our fingertips along the walls on both sides as we walk. Steep, crooked staircases lead off to nowhere; cats shade themselves under spills of jasmine, watching us intently, for in the mid-afternoon there are no other people. We reach the town’s summit—a dazzling sunlit square, bookended by a crenellated castle and, opposite, Locanda Bellavista, Cervo’s best-known restaurant, where we reward ourselves with an early alfresco dinner of ravioli di borragine. 2 DAY CERVO TO FINALBORGO 2 From Cervo, it’s a 20-minute ride to Alassio along the shore-hugging Via Aurelia. Smaller roads veer into the mountains to connect with the A10—the autostrada—which sweeps across valleys and through hills via a network of slim, tubelike tunnels. (Though not as charming as the Via Aurelia, the A10 affords fast connections if you’re making haste to your next destination.) The beauty and heterogeneity of Ponente’s towns owe much to their tumultuous history. They changed hands frequently between 1400 and 1800, with Austria-Hungary, Spain, the Levantine and Genoa—the reigning maritime republic for centuries—leaving their imprints of dominion. Albenga, lying in a hazy floodplain, harbors a pristine medieval center, with an 11th-century cathedral at its nexus. Alassio, just west, is a buzzier 18th- and 19th-century

town, where boys on motorini and girls in short shorts flirt on the boardwalk. The lamplit streets of the historic center are lined with a satisfying hodgepodge of the Italian high-low: profumeria, fancy food stores, CD emporiums, the occasional Max Mara boutique. We arrive late in the afternoon in Finale Ligure, where we find what seems like half the town’s population convened at Boncardo, a 1950’s-vintage bar and beach club; with its concrete floors, high ceilings, industrial lamps and pull-down glass doors, it recalls the auto shop in Rumble Fish, except at the edge of the Mediterranean. Several beautiful young men strike exaggerated contrapposti behind the 7.5-meter-long bar, insouciantly dispensing the occasional Peroni spritz; we half expect one to remove a comb from his back pocket and start working his quiff. The terrace overlooks rows of blue and yellow umbrellas and, three kilometers out to sea, Gallinaria Island, whose bell tower is faintly visible in the fading light. For dinner we strike out for Finalborgo, just inland from Finale Ligure. In Roman times this teardrop-shaped village was at the frontier with Gaul; it’s still enclosed by a protective wall, which seems superfluous given the sheer depth and narrowness of the surrounding valley. At Ai Quattru Canti, a tiny but packed trattoria, we feast on torta verde, a ricottalaced, quiche-like creation baked in the wood oven. Back in Finale, we repair to the terrace bar at the Hotel Punta Est, perched on a bluff overlooking the town and possessed of a slightly askew, old-school charm of which Wes Anderson would approve. » T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

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t+l journal | driving

Bar del Mollo Sei Pescatori, in Varigotti, left; at play outside the Hotel Punta Est, middle; at the Hotel Al Saraceno, in Varigotti, right.

GUIDE TO THE LIGURIAN COAST

ITALY

Ro Rom Rome

Finalborgo o

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DAY 3 Noli Varigotti V i

Finale Ligure Lig re

DAY 2

A10

Menton n

DAY 1

SS11

A Albenga Alassio A C Cervo Imp Imperia

San Remo R Bordig Bo digh hera

GETTING THERE Fly to either Genoa or Nice, just across the French border, and rent a car at either airport. WHERE TO STAY Hotel Al Saraceno A reﬁned seaside hotel with 21 rooms; the best have terraces and ocean views. 2 Via Al Capo, Varigotti; 39-019/698-8182; alsaracenogroup.com; doubles from ¤230, including breakfast. Hotel Miramare Rooms have high ceilings and ocean views; don’t miss cocktails at the terrace bar, steps from the beach. 66 Via Aurelia, Varigotti, 39-019/698-018; hotelmiramarevarigotti.com; doubles from ¤129. GREAT VALUE

Hotel Punta Est 1 Via Aurelia, Finale Ligure; 39-019/600-611;

Genoa Genoa

DI RIV PO IE NE RA NT E

DAY FINALE LIGURE TO NOLI 3 Immediately east of Finale Ligure, the Via Aurelia becomes spectacularly scenic, twisting under massive outcroppings and through deep indentations in the rock. Ten kilometers along lies Noli, which during the Middle Ages was one of the five maritime republics (with Genoa, Pisa, Venice and Amalfi ). The town hosts a lively market several days a week, including this morning, and we spend an hour foraging through bins of linens, then buy a sackful of sweet grapes to savor in the shadow of crumbling façades. At noon we backtrack to Varigotti. One of the finest natural ports in Liguria, it’s a tiny village not likely ever to get bigger, confined as it is between the protruding cape and steep mountains. Varigotti feels more in character with southern Italy, with low-slung houses painted dark orange and red backed by hillsides planted with olive and lemon trees. The town’s habitués have a decided gloss; Baby Missoni abounds at Varigotti’s exclusive bagni, where on weekdays young mothers and their progeny revel in the lapidary waters, then indulge in house-made sorbetti at Gelateria Saracena, just up from the beach. At lunch they fill the patio tables at Muraglia Conchiglia d’Oro, a seafood institution since the 1950’s, or at the terrace restaurant of the slick Hotel Al Saraceno, opened in 2008. Of all the beaches we’ve encountered, Varigotti’s is the most tranquil and beautiful. At dusk on our last day, well after all the Italians have returned home to prepare for dinner, we remain on our loungers, tracking the saffron disk of the sun as it dips into the inky sea, savoring the peace around us, and determining how we might find ourselves in exactly this place next summer. ✚

Med

a err

13 km

puntaest.com; doubles from ¤190, including breakfast. WHERE TO EAT Ai Quattru Canti 22 Via Torcelli, Finalborgo; 39-019/680-540; dinner for two ¤41. Boncardo 4 Corso Europa, Finale Ligure; 39-019/601-751; drinks for two ¤15. Gelateria Saracena Via Al Capo; Varigotti; no phone. Guja 7 Passeggiata Dino Grollero, Alassio; 39-018/264-0693; dinner for two ¤50. Locanda Bellavista 2 Piazza Castello, Cervo; 39-018/3408094; dinner for two ¤61. Muraglia Conchiglia d’Oro 133 Via Aurelia, Varigotti; 39-019/698-015; dinner for two ¤119.

Get Away in Style The Pimalai Resort & Spa on the idyllic island of Koh Lanta is undoubtedly one of the finest in the country. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and recipient of numerous awards for excellence, Pimalai is a truly magnificent resort.

Peace, Serenity, Solitude.

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Pool Villas. Each Villa sets some 60 meters

above sea level and offers superb views of the bay and the Andaman sea.

Pimalai in-Villa Spa

Amongst many other recreational facilities is Pimalaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comprehensive Gold Palm PADI dive center which offers, from November to April, the very best of diving boats and professional divers to take you to nearby world class diving locations.

special report | t+l journal

The Hotel Room of the Future Will it look like the inside of a space pod? Will there be robots and nanotechnology? Or is the hotel room of the 21st century destined to be a place that’s customizable and comfortable—a place more like home? KARRIE JACOBS reports. Illustrated by JASON LEE

YAS HOTEL, IN ABU DHABI, THE curvilinear buildings are draped with a giant, LED-lit glass veil and straddle a Formula One racetrack. The structure resembles a multicolored UFO waiting to take off. For the inside, the building’s architects, the New York ﬁrm Asymptote, had similarly forwardlooking ideas: a GPS locator in each room key would open the door without any physical contact—your room would know you were coming. One of the interior walls was envisioned to be a glass surface where “you waved your hand and a perfectly high-resolution TV image would appear,” says Asymptote partner Hani Rashid. The super-high-tech hotel room seems to have arrived back in 2005, when Zaha Hadid’s smooth, womblike interiors were used on a single ﬂoor of the Hotel Silken Puerta América, an architectural theme park of a building in Madrid. Then, a few years later in 2008, the Future Hotel Showcase Room cooked up by the Laboratory for Visionary Architecture (LAVA) of Stuttgart, Germany, appeared, taking its cues from Hadid. The LAVA project resembles the inside of a Hollywood spaceship, with curved white walls, sculpted furniture and no right angles. The only soft surface in the room is a comforter covering a bed set on a platform that supposedly rocks its occupants to sleep. » T THE DAZZLINGLY FUTURISTIC

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t+l journal | special

report

The room has one very appealing technical innovation, anti-jet-lag lighting, and one less promising gadget, a robot bartender. And just last year, W Hotels showed its Extreme Wow Suite of the Future, a “full sensory experience” by Parisian designer Patrick Jouin, at an exhibition in São Paulo, Brazil. It’s yet another Hadid-style womb, anticipating a future in which furniture as we know it will be extinct, the dominant color will be white, and curvy walls will double as TV screens. The Jouin suite is very swank, but not especially revelatory. In Abu Dhabi, meanwhile, Asymptote’s room designs for the Yas were deemed too expensive and too disquieting, and were left on the drawing table. All this raises a question: What if the future doesn’t look like this anymore? Ask Eric Chiarelli, a senior designer at Hirsch Bedner Associates, the international hospitality design ﬁrm, and he’ll reel off a long list of technologies that should be in hotel rooms someday. For instance, he’s excited about “quantum dots,” an outgrowth of nanotechnology, which could be printed on a hotel room’s walls and light the room, continually changing color, intensity and imagery. His clients, however, are not ready to implement—or pay for— something so very cutting-edge. Chiarelli acknowledges that the way the future really happens is through “smart evolution,” a less jolting form of technologically driven change. Hello, wall-mounted ﬂat-screen TV, goodbye, TVconcealing armoire. Aside from the fact that hotel-room design tends to progress at an evolutionary pace rather than a revolutionary one, our whole notion of what the future is about seems to

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

be undergoing a profound transition. In the hotel industry, what people talk about when they talk about the future is not so much technology as human values. Words like home, customized, personal and authenticity come up a lot. “Those are the buzzwords in the industry right now,” says Robin Standefer, who, together with her husband and business partner, Stephen Alesch, runs the New York–based architecture and interior design ﬁrm Roman & Williams. The ﬁrm is responsible for the interiors of two recently opened New York hotels: the Standard and the Ace. They couldn’t be more different. The Standard, as Standefer puts it, takes the “lack-of-memory escapist approach,” whereas the Ace is crammed with memories, both real and imaginary. And it’s the memory-laden look that Roman & Williams came up with for the Ace that may be the most powerful harbinger of the near future. The rooms resemble loft apartments stocked with retro-chic Smeg refrigerators, working turntables and vinyl LP’s. “For Ace, I shopped,” Standefer says. “I found three hundred unique desk chairs.” The custom ethos seems to be popping up everywhere. In Berlin, for instance, the riotously funky Hotel Michelberger is a rehabbed factory building with double-height guest rooms, loft beds and very human, very personal detritus, like walls tiled with old paperback

In the hotel industry, what people talk about when they talk about the future is not so much technology as HUMAN VALUES

T H I S P A G E , F R O M L E F T : G E E - LY ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E A C E H O T E L N Y C . O P P O S I T E P A G E : C O U R T E S Y O F B J O R N M O E R M A N

LAVA’s Future Hotel Showcase Room concept, from 2008, left. Below: A guest room at the Ace Hotel, in New York City, designed by Roman & Williams. Opposite: Resembling a UFO about to take off, Abu Dhabi’s Asymptote-designed Yas Hotel.

books. Of course the hotel is wired for broadband, but the look is definitely low-tech. The sales pitch captures the zeitgeist: “Guests are truly guests, staying at the house of a group of friends.…” Meanwhile, Milan-based Piero Lissoni, a prolific designer who has lent a modern gloss to hotel projects all over the globe, declares, “I like hotels with a lot of humanity. I don’t like purity.” His Studio M hotel, which opened in Singapore in May, is a much tidier version of the Michelberger aesthetic: highly efficient rooms that feature sleeping lofts and cunningly crafted work and storage areas. Even at a mainstream chain like Marriott, chief creative officer Robin Uler says the future is all about “customization,” which might mean something as simple as putting furniture on wheels so that guests can rearrange it. Maybe the fantasy future still resembles Hadid’s swoopy high-tech womb, but the real future is more likely to involve an extremely efficient manipulation of increasingly scarce floor space…and that calls for right angles. Interior designer Tony Chi, for instance, is now advising his clients—global players such as Mandarin Oriental and Hyatt—that future hotel rooms should actually be smaller. “The earth’s not getting bigger,” he says. He believes that rooms should be divided up into “zones.” Intensive space planning, he says, can turn a basic 29-square-meter hotel room into a comfortable suite. “There is a zone called the den, like a library, where you can work. Even though it’s small, you are in that little world of yours,” Chi says. “There’s a sleeping alcove, very cozy and comfortable, and you crawl into that cave and sleep.” Of course, even if the future is cozy, as Chi sees it, high technology isn’t going away. But it will likely be deployed in ways that are more subtle and sophisticated. At Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, one of the world’s most influential architecture firms—the Burj Khalifa, in Dubai, currently the tallest building in the world, was SOM’s design—the partner

who heads the interiors department, Stephen Apking, speaks to that point. “People are looking for something that is authentic,” he says. But his version of authenticity is unusually forward-looking. Apking is developing a new type of hotel room that is a direct response to one of our most impressive technological feats: our ability to build super-tall skyscrapers. “We’re doing a lot of tall towers around the world, and a lot of them include hotels,” he says. “We’re trying to think: What would be an authentic experience and design for a room that high up in a building?” One answer might be to incorporate the “expressive structural systems” of the towers into the design of the rooms, using dramatic diagonal beams. And when you’re staying on the 100th floor of a building, you can’t exactly have a balcony, so Apking is experimenting with “sky-viewing chambers.” The rooms at the SOM-designed Lotte Super Tower group of hotels, due to open in Seoul in 2014, might have sober wood-andleather interiors, but the sky-viewing areas will be done in reflective pearl-colored marble and furnished with low-slung “moongazing chairs” angled toward the view. If the vision of a future involving robot bartenders seems passé, sky-viewing chambers seem perfectly au courant and so does design that humanizes technology in comfortable ways. Ian Schrager, inventor of the high-design hotel, says he figures that technology will always have its own very specific role to play, but he has banished the recycled Modernism of the boutique hotel room in favor of something more humanistic. Schrager says he anticipates a back-to-the-1980’s future, “another era of individualism and uniqueness and singular vision.” ✚ T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A

C O M

| JUNE 2010

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it LIST 2010

THE T+L EDITORS’ CHOICE AWARDS ASIA CHINA

RAMATUELLE

TURKS AND CAICOS

La Réserve Ramatuelle 105

PROVIDENCIALES

HANGZHOU

GERMANY

Amanfayun 108

HEIDELBERG

Gansevoort Turks & Caicos 100

HONG KONG

Heidelberg Suites 110

Upper House 96

I TA LY

SHANGHAI

FIESOLE

Peninsula Shanghai 110

Il Salviatino 111

PuLi Hotel & Spa 94

MILAN

INDIA

Maison Moschino 102

JAISALMER

SCIACCA

Serai Jaisalmer 110 JODHPUR

Raas 111 INDONESIA BALI

Alila Villas Uluwatu 97 PHILIPPINES BORACAY

Shangri-La Boracay Resort & Spa 106 SINGAPORE SENTOSA ISLAND

Capella Singapore 101

Verdura Golf & Spa Resort 108 VENICE

Palazzina Grassi 111

MEXICO AND CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICA CHILE SANTIAGO

W Santiago 104 COLOMBIA CARTAGENA

Tcherassi Hotel & Spa 96

S PAI N

MEXICO

BARCELONA

ACAPULCO

Mandarin Oriental 102 TERUEL

Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués 98

Hotel Consolación 100

Hotel Boca Chica 109

TURKEY

MEXICO CITY

UCHISAR

Las Alcobas 102

Argos in Cappadocia 109

AFRICA AND THE MIDDLE EAST

THAILAND

NORTH AMERICA U N I T E D S TAT E S

KO SAMUI

CALIFORNIA

Langham Place Samui at Lamai Beach 98

Bardessono, Yountville 109

Mamilla Hotel 102

HAWAII

JORDAN

KRABI

St. Regis Princeville, Kauai 98

Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve 106

MONTANA

AU S T R A L I A

Ranch at Rock Creek, Philipsburg 109

LITHGOW

NEW YORK

Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa 108 EUROPE ENGLAND HAMPSHIRE

Lime Wood 109 LONDON

Dean Street Townhouse 94 FRANCE PARIS

InterContinental Paris Avenue Marceau 94

Andaz Wall Street, New York City 100 Crosby Street Hotel, New York City 94

ISRAEL JERUSALEM

MA’IN

Evason Ma’In Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa 105 LEBANON BEIRUT

Le Gray 96 SEYCHELLES MAHÉ

UTAH

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles 105

Amangiri, Canyon Point 104

SOUTH AFRICA

Waldorf Astoria Park City 108

One&Only Cape Town 92

THE CARIBBEAN ANGUILLA BARNES BAY

Viceroy Anguilla 98

CAPE TOWN

Taj Cape Town 94 UNITED ARAB E M I R AT E S ABU DHABI

Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara 106

Travel + Leisure set out to find the best new hotels in the world. From pioneering architecture to authentic regional experiences, these properties are reshaping their destinations. Read on for more on this year’s 45 most exciting openings.

it LIST 2010

CITY

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

One&Only Cape Town

The knockout first impression as you walk in the door is the hotel’s 12meter-tall picture window framing Table Mountain. But then outsize luxury is trumpeted everywhere here, from the 5,000-bottle-strong wine tower in the restaurant Maze by Gordon Ramsay to the spa’s French manicure clinic by Bastien Gonzalez. The cream-colored, Adam D. Tihany–designed rooms are slick and vast; baths have a wow factor, too, though with a notable style-over-substance lapse (the freestanding tubs are huge, beautiful — and a bit uncomfortable). Dock Rd., Victoria & Alfred Waterfront; 27-21/431-5888; oneandonlyresorts.com; doubles from R6,160. 00

MO N T H 2 0 0 8| T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E . C O M

it PuLi’s black tile-floored lobby offers instant serenity—as do the 229 rooms and suites in gray Shanghainese brick and tables topped with slate-colored inkstone. The coup de grâce is the 500square-meter Anantara spa, with a lap pool overlooking Jing An Park. 1 Changde Rd., Jing An; 86-21/3203-9999; thepuli.com; doubles from RMB3,370. CITY

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA

Taj Cape Town CITY

NEW YORK CIT Y

Crosby Street Hotel Need a dose of London chic when you’re in New York? At Crosby Street Hotel, on a cobblestoned block in SoHo, Anglophiles find British design doyenne Kit Kemp’s signature tongue-in-cheek flourishes, from an oversize white steel Jaume Plensa sculpture in the lobby to portraits of local dogs in the elevators. But it’s the service that will win you over: an umbrella at the ready for impending rain, coffee and a newspaper delivered within minutes of your request, and a proper hot toddy at the bar. 79 Crosby St.; 1-212/2266400; firmdale.com; doubles from US$495. CITY

SHANGHAI

PuLi Hotel & Spa A 26-story property in the heart of China’s busiest metropolis doesn’t normally bring to mind tranquillity, but 94

Housed in the former South African Reserve Bank headquarters, Taj Cape Town checks all the right boxes. Heritage rooms (on the first five floors) are spacious and richly colorful in ice-blue and pistachio, with original mullioned windows. Tower rooms feel more compact, but every inch is put to clever use (note the cubbies in the marble bath walls, where plush towels are artfully rolled and toiletries displayed). The whole of Cape Town is clamoring for a table at Bombay Brasserie, and the bang-on central location—steps from parliament and five blocks from the convention center—make it the luxe business hotel to book. Wale St.; 27-21/819-2000; tajhotels. com; doubles from R3,584. CITY GREAT VALUE

LONDON

Dean Street Townhouse

The Soho House Group has the corner on private clubs in London, New York, Berlin, Los Angeles and Miami Beach (coming in September). Now

the company’s understated-chic style returns to the West End with a fullservice hotel that’s welcomed nonmembers since day one. The Georgian building has 39 rooms, ranging in designation from Broom Cupboard—it is tiny; you’ll turn sideways to get between the bed and one wall—to Bigger, with Victorian sofas upholstered in burlap and tubs on pedestals next to pillow-topped beds. The restaurant became absurdly popular the day it opened; make reservations early, and consider the twice-baked haddock. 69 Dean St.; 4420/7434-1775; deanstreettownhouse.com; doubles from £160. CITY

PA R IS

InterContinental Paris Avenue Marceau For all its refinement and pedigree, the latest hotel to arrive on the Avenue Marceau, in the Eighth Arrondissement, is not at all uptight. Take the restaurant, helmed by a former number-two chef at the Georges V, which forgoes the swarming, obsequious waiters of other posh properties and focuses on food that is simple, subtly flavored and comforting. Recommended is the club »

Room 1006 at the Crosby Street Hotel, above left. Above right: The Long Bar lobby of PuLi Hotel & Spa in Shanghai.

Great Value icons denote a hotel with a rack rate of US$250 or less.

O P E N I N G S P R E A D : C O U R T E S Y O F O N E & O N LY C A P E T O W N . T H I S P A G E , F R O M F A R L E F T : P A U L C O S T E L L O ; C O U R T E S Y O F P U L I H O T E L & S P A

LIST 2010

it LIST 2010

sandwich with black truffles. Housed in the former residence of a Parisian count, the hotel has a contemporary feel that will put design lovers in the mood: offsetting the lobby’s Baccarat table and Murano chandeliers is a Cubist painting by Raymond Moretti in vivid red. The 55 sunny, whisperquiet rooms are furnished with Le Corbusier, Isamu Noguchi and

Lime Wood, London

Philippe Starck pieces. 64 Ave. Marceau, Eighth Arr.; 33-1/44-43-3636; ic-marceau.com; doubles from €160. CITY

C A R TA G E N A , C O L O M B I A

Tcherassi Hotel & Spa Colombian designer Silvia Tcherassi converted a Spanish-colonial mansion in the Old City into a white-on-white urban escape that pops with funky decorative accents (“chandeliers” of interlocking plastic rings; tasseled bedspreads) reminiscent of the texture-intensive accessories from her collections. The seven rooms are named after fabrics, and like Tcherassi’s detailed handiwork, service at the hotel is subtle and impeccable.

Start your day, as we did, with a fivecourse breakfast of fresh fruit and fried carnes in the courtyard, adjacent to a small-scale swimming pool and a three-story vertical garden. 6-21 Calle del Sargento Mayor; 57-5/664-4445; tcherassihotels.com; doubles from US$360, including breakfast. CITY

B E I R U T, L E BA N O N

Le Gray

The surest sign that Beirut is welcoming travelers back with open arms: Gordon Campbell Gray’s sleek and smart Le Gray. In the 87 understated guest rooms, expansive windows overlook Martyrs’ Square, Hariri Mosque and St. George’s Cathedral (a vista that encapsulates the city’s complex history). The vibrant modern art collection, rooftop infinity pool, in-room Jura espresso machines and expert concierge service trumpet the glamorous Mediterranean city’s renaissance. Martyrs’ Square; 961-1/ 971-111; legray.com; doubles from US$495. CITY

H O N G KO N G

More pied-à-terre than hotel, this contemporary-style 117-room property in a Central tower is all about subtle details. Although the look is minimalist, there’s nothing pared-down about the quality of the materials or the size of the rooms—the smallest is 69 square meters. There are limestone-covered bathrooms (beware of the toe-trapping floating steps leading up to the tub), shoji glass, glistening pale wood surfaces and lacquered paper panels. All this, and a restaurant by star chef Gray Kunz, formerly of the St. Regis and Café Gray in New York. 88 Queensway; 852/2918-1838; upperhouse.com; doubles from HK$2,996. »

An Upper Suite living room at the Upper House in Hong Kong, left. Opposite: The pool view at Alilas Villas Uluwatu on the south coast of Bali.

CO U RT E SY O F U P P E R H O U S E . O P P O S I T E PAG E : L AU RY N I S H A K

Upper House

BEACH

BALI, INDONESIA

Alila Villas Uluwatu Bali’s most seductive new hideaway has one foot in the air (an impossibly cantilevered pavilion seems to float skyward over a cliff) and the other firmly planted in the earth. Built in accordance with Green Globe principles — all materials were locally sourced — the Alila sits on the southern coast of the Bukit Peninsula, a quiet corner known for fabulous surfing and even more fabulous temples; the resort’s knowledgeable guides lead tours. In each of the 84 villas, the bedroom’s fourth wall opens onto a frangipani-shaded pool and pavilion, with the Indian Ocean glittering in the distance. The highlight: Warung, the Alila’s Indonesian restaurant, which serves authentic dishes such as grilled red snapper scented with lime, shallots and lemongrass. Jalan Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambiyak, Desa Pecatu; 62-361/848-2166; alilahotels.com; doubles from US$750.

it LIST 2010 BEACH

KO SAMUI, THAIL AND

Langham Place Samui at Lamai Beach GREAT VALUE

Aimed at travelers who prefer Wi-Fi with their R&R, the 77-room Langham Place Samui promises you can stay plugged-in even from your villa’s rustic-chic canopy bed or around the limited-seating pool. But that’s not to say this sleek newcomer doesn’t inspire relaxation. Each night after sunset, the lights are dimmed , lounge music permeates the frangipani-scented air, and Thai

paper lanterns are released into the night sky. 146/24 Moo 4, Lamai Beach; 66-77/960-888; langhamhotels.com; doubles from Bt7,450. BEACH

K AUA I , H AWA I I

the f lick of a switch turns the glass opaque for privacy. 5520 Ka Haku Rd.; 1-808/826-9644; princeville hotelhawaii.com; doubles from US$435. BEACH

BARNES BAY, ANGUILLA

St. Regis Princeville Viceroy Anguilla When St. Regis announced its takeover of the Princeville Resort— and its plan to transform the 25-yearold property, redesigning the pool and adding a spa—we hoped that the cliff-top hotel would retain more than just its prime position overlooking Hanalei Bay. The resort doesn’t disappoint: 400 staffers (some with more than 25 years at the hotel) are still the best on the island, and now Jean-Georges Vongerichten has taken over the already popular Kauai Grill. Our favorite in-room amenity in the 252 plush rooms is the bathtub set next to f loor-to-ceiling windows;

Kelly Wearstler sheds Hollywood Regency for monochrome Caribbean on a coral bluff above Anguilla’s Barnes and Meads bays. Surprising nontropical textures (horsehair; gray marble) and abstract art lend real star quality to this modern property sandwiched between two white-sand beaches. Most of the 166 guest rooms have their own sundeck and plunge pool, while linen-covered sofas in the Sunset Lounge are positioned to catch the day’s last rays during cocktail hour. West End; 264/4977000 ; viceroyhotelsandresorts.com; doubles from US$695. BEACH

ACAPULCO, MEXICO

Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués Acapulco’s scene is located along its coastal stretch, and the new Banyan

F RO M L E F T: A N N E M E N K E ; CO U RT E SY O F TC H E R A S S I H OT E L & S PA

The grounds at Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués, in Acapulco, Mexico, left. Below: The courtyard at the Tcherassi Hotel & Spa.

RESORT

SENTOSA ISLAND, SINGAPORE

Capella Singapore

It’s no wonder that Capella chose the recently revitalized Sentosa for its Asian debut. The 12-hectare island off Singapore’s southern coast already has six comfortable hotels, but none have this form of colonial grace (public spaces are set in sprawling 19th-century converted barracks) and modern accents (two Foster & Partners–designed wings made of glass and steel). Guest rooms feature teak-lined doors and windows and crisp white-on-white baths, with some surprising layouts: top-floor corner suites have semicircular bedrooms and balconies. The outdoor dining terraces look out over the bi-level infinity pools, which seem to slip into the South China Sea. 1 The Knolls; 65/6377-8888; capellasingapore.com; doubles from S$885.

it LIST 2010

MEXICO CITY

Las Alcobas

Though we packed our noise-canceling headphones when we heard that Yabu Pushelberg’s glossy Las Alcobas was located on the Polanco neighborhood’s busy Avenida Masaryk, walls with soundproofing technology allowed us to cocoon in one of 35 earthy guest rooms detailed with embroidered linens and rosewood furnishings. More reasons to stay put? Chef Marta Ortiz’s contemporary Mexican menus at two restaurants, and Mayan- and Aztec-inspired treatments at the Aurora Spa. 390 Avda. Masaryk; 52-55/3300- 3900; lasalcobas.com; doubles from M$5,815. DESIGN

MILAN

Maison Moschino Italy’s style capital is buzzing with the news of its first hotel from a homegrown fashion house. In the 102

busy Corso Como neighborhood, Maison Moschino is true to the label’s whimsical approach: 65 rooms in a 19th-century former train station are decorated with billowing dresses that double as headboards and tree-trunk beds that merge with trompe l’oeil forests. Although the smaller standard rooms sacrifice size for affordability, the look and pedigree quickly won us over. 12 Viale Monte Grappa; 39-02/2900-9858; maisonmoschino.com; doubles from €446. DESIGN

JERUSALEM

Mamilla Hotel Israel found the perfect complement to its new architectural icons (the Santiago Calatrava–designed Jerusalem bridge; Ron Arad’s Design Museum, in Holon) in the angular, elegant Mamilla Hotel by Moshe Safdie. The hotel, just outside the Old City, is filled with furnishings from Herman Miller,

Kartell and Cassina, and all 194 rooms, set behind black metal doors, feature Jerusalem-stone walls and dark oak floors. The soon-to-open spa— which will debut this month—and there’s even an in-house synagogue that opens at the end of the year and promises to be as stylish as the surroundings. 11 King Solomon St.; 972-2/548-2222; mamillahotel.com; doubles from NIS1,456. DESIGN

BA R C E L O N A

Mandarin Oriental Take the graceful service of a legendary Hong Kong hotel group and pair it with Spanish designer »

Spanish Tastes Above: The rooftop terrace of the penthouse suite at Mandarin Oriental, in Barcelona.

C O U R T E SY O F M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L

DESIGN

it LIST 2010

Patricia Urquiola’s pioneering interiors, and the Mandarin Oriental Barcelona is a multicultural triumph. On the stylish Passeig de Gràcia, an unassuming former bank building houses Urquiola’s 98 bright, creamon-white rooms with tall windows and blond hardwood floors. From the rooftop infinity pool, you’ll get a bird’s-eye view. 38-40 Passeig de Gràcia, Barcelona; 34/93-151-888; mandarinoriental.com; doubles from €552.

DESIGN

SA N T I AG O , C H I L E

W Santiago

The ever-expanding W empire has grown exponentially this year (Washington, D.C., Barcelona and most recently the island of Vieques, just off Puerto Rico), but the hotel company’s first South American outpost, W Santiago, deserves the spotlight for its cheeky homage to Chile’s natural landscape. Aquamarine on the corridor ceilings is an ode to the country’s lengthy coastline and sheepskin walls in the lobby channel Patagonia. Unparalleled views of the chiseled Andes are a given; the best panoramas are seen from the rooftop lounge and pool. For even more local flavor, head to the hotel’s NoSo restaurant and

order its fuente de mariscos, a platter of sea urchins, oysters, clams, shrimp and ceviche, paired, of course, with a nicely chilled bottle of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc. 3000 Isidora Goyenechea; 56-2/770-000; whotels.com; doubles from US$299. RESORT

C A N YO N P O I N T, U TA H

Amangiri

Encircled by dramatic, dun-colored rock formations, Amanresorts’ second North American property is hidden away on 243 hectares of Utah wilderness alongside eroded hoodoos and 5,000-year-old petroglyphs. Its squat cement buildings, each dyed as many as 10 times to match the subtleties of the landscape, house 34 suites that frame breathtaking views of the sculpted sandstone. At night, after a dinner of roasted elk with cherry sauce, the intense stillness seems almost musical, a soundless evocation of the

LIST 2010

Tree will turn savvy travelers’ attention farther south along San Marqués cape. Asian-inspired rooms are accented with Mexican artisan details such as framed handwoven textiles from Oaxaca and honey-colored onyx lamps. Attentive staff whisk guests from cliff-top villas to the resort’s holistic spa, but at this secluded sanctuary, why rush? Perhaps to dine at Saffron, the resort’s signature Thai restaurant, whose chefs just arrived from the Banyan Tree Phuket. Lote 1, Blvd. Cabo Marqués, Colonia Punta Diamante; 52744/434-0100; banyantree.com; doubles from M$6,385.

The Forest Room at Milan’s Maison Moschino, above. Right: Kube rooms at Hotel Consolación, in Teruel, Spain. Opposite: Colonial grace is the order of the day at Capella Singapore.

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Gansevoort Turks & Caicos The Gansevoort, steps from the prized white sand of Grace Bay Beach, exudes a confident sense of cool: guests recline on extra-wide chaise longues or on one of the “floating islands” that punctuate the infinity-edged blue-tiled pool, all to the sound track of Caribbean-inspired lounge music. The 91 rooms are ultramodern, but guests usually prefer to spend time at the hotel’s outdoor bar, which fills with locals on weekends. Grace Bay Beach; 649/941-7555; gansevoortturks andcaicos.com; doubles from US$575. DESIGN

NEW YO RK CIT Y

Andaz Wall Street

Perhaps a welcome sign that things are looking up on Wall Street: Hyatt’s

bullish move to open the tech-savvy, David Rockwell–designed Andaz. Hosts carry handheld PC’s used to make key cards on the spot, and at Bar Seven Five, located at the top of an undulating staircase, a bartender will prepare Manhattans tableside from a Pullman-style caddy. The 253 guest rooms feature two-meter-high windows , which means that the bleached wood interiors (complete with soaking tubs) are f looded with natural light. 75 Wall St.; 1-212/5901234; andaz.com; doubles from US$275. DESIGN GREAT VALUE

T E R U E L , S PA I N

Hotel Consolación

In the remote Teruel province, a twohour train ride from both Barcelona and Valencia, Spanish design firm Camprubí i Santacana Arquitectes transformed a former hillside hermitage into two stylish rooms, but Hotel Consolación’s 10 freestanding cubical suites are the real draw: each has a glass wall and a balcony with uninterrupted views across a valley of pine and olive trees. Inside, you’ll find creature comforts with a twist—slate soaking tubs and fireplaces suspended from the ceiling. Km 96, Crta. Nacional 232, Monroyo, Matarraña, Teruel ; 34/978-856-755; consolacion.com.es; doubles from €162. »

T H I S PAG E F RO M L E F T: CO U RT E SY O F M A I S O N M O S C H I N O ; CO U RT E SY O F H OT E L CO N S O L AC I Ó N . O P P O S I T E PAG E : DA R R E N S O H

BEACH PROVIDENCIALES , TURKS AND CAICOS

vast American West. Canyon Point; 1-435/675-3999; amanresorts.com; doubles from US$950. RESORT

M A’ I N , J O R DA N

Evason Ma’In Hot Springs & Six Senses Spa

MAH É , SE YCH ELLES

Four Seasons Resort Seychelles Beachgoers who arrive at this 67-villa tree house–style getaway in the Indian Ocean come as much for the white-sand castaway beach as for the activities: diving, snorkeling, trimaran sailing and introductions to the local island culture through Creole dance classes and shopping trips to the tiny capital, Victoria. But Four Seasons couldn’t resist making a design statement with its first Seychelles outpost. Set 80 meters above granite boulder–strewn forested slopes, Frenchcolonial style meets Creole charm in ocean-view suites with 1.5-squaremeter marble baths and walk-in rain showers that overlook jungles of indigenous palms and fruit trees. Bulgari bath products and four-poster beds are to be expected, but it’s the casual vibe, curated list of activities, and un-

honeymoon aesthetic that makes this the new place to stay in the Seychelles. Petite Anse, Baie Lazare; 248/393-000; fourseasons. com; doubles from Rs15,295. RESORT

R A M AT U E L L E , F R A N C E

La Réserve Ramatuelle

In the land of billionaires and beautiful people, it’s easy to wilt trying to keep up. Fortunately there’s La Réserve Ramatuelle, a minimalist oasis with 23 white-and-beige rooms and an 1,020-square-meter spa hidden in the sleepy, pine-covered hills just outside »

The Kannel Bar at the 67-villa Four Seasons Resort Seychelles, below. Opposite from left: In Chile, the W Santiago offers local flavor; South China Sea views at Shangri-La Boracay, in the Philippines.

CO U RT E SY O F FO U R S E A S O N S R E S O RT S EYC H E L L E S . O P P O S I T E PAG E , F RO M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F S TA R W O O D H O T E L S & R E S O R T S W O R L D W I D E , I N C . ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H A N G R I - L A B O R A C AY R E S O R T & S P A

Where else can travelers settle into a traditional Berber tented barbecue or opt for a cliff-top dinner in the Al Wadi desert? Only at this 97-room retreat, with additional perks like a Six Senses spa and a waterfall-fed thermal pool. But the wellness focus doesn’t end there: ancient 140-degree springs are found on site, and the location (in a valley an hour southwest of the capital Amman) is more than convenient for health-focused day trips—the Dead Sea, with its mineral-rich mud, is just 30 minutes away by car. Madaba; 962-5/324-5500; sixsenses.com; doubles from JD226, including breakfast.

RESORT

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St.-Tropez. Hoping to turn back time? An on-site specialist can help you with a host of rejuvenating, slimming and energizing treatments, and a Crème de la Mer facial promises to make you feel better than ever. Serene by day, the hotel picks up at night, especially at the popular alfresco restaurant: we are, after all, on the French Riviera. Chemin de la Quessine; 33-4/94-44-94-44; lareserve-ramatuelle.com; doubles from €994. RESORT

KRABI, THAILAND

Phulay Bay, a RitzCarlton Reserve Expectations were stratospheric for the debut of Ritz-Carlton’s Reserve brand, and this resort in an unspoiled corner of southern Thailand more than delivers, thanks to savvy design,

RESORT

ABU DHABI

Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara The company known for stocking Thai jungle lodges with fine wines and fitting Maldivian overwater bungalows with Egyptian-cotton sheets has set its sights on the Empty Quarter—an ocean of dunes

across the planet’s largest uninterrupted desert. At the princely desert fortress, stone walls are draped with jewel-toned textiles, and helipads accommodate visiting Emirati sheikhs. Guides lead intrepid travelers on camel treks through the Liwa Desert. 1 Qasr Al Sarab Rd.; 971-2/886-2088; anantara. com; doubles from Dh1,300. RESORT

B O R A C AY, P H I L I P P I N E S

Shangri-La Boracay Resort & Spa

A longtime backpacker haven 320 kilometers south of Manila, Boracay finally has a five-star property worthy of its white-sand coastline. Situated in a sheltered cove alongside two private »

The 13-hectare grounds at Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, in Krabi, below left. Below right: Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara, in the United Arab Emirates.

F R O M L E F T : C O U R T E S Y O F R I T Z - C A R LT O N P H U L AY B AY ; C O U R T E S Y O F Q A S R A L S A R A B D E S E R T R E S O R T

warm service and splendid isolation. Lanna-style frescoes painted on mai yang wood decorate the 54 villas and suites, and enclosed gardens offer a welcome degree of privacy. Given the sweltering climate, we would have traded in our doubleking-size bed for more efficient air-conditioning, but a late-night dip in our infinity pool overlooking the Andaman Sea cooled our jets. 111 Moo 3, T. Nongthalay Rd., Amphoe Muang; 66-7/562-8111; phulaybay.com; doubles from Bt19,200.

LIST 2010

beaches, the 219 rooms and villas are decorated with indigenous touches (woven abaca rugs; capiz shells). Four hillside restaurants and the cliff-top Solana bar have panoramic views of the azure Sulu Sea. But for an especially memorable stay, you’ll want to snag the vertiginous Tree Top Villa, which has a whirlpool and some of the resort’s best vistas. Barangay Yapak; 63-36/288-4988; shangri-la.com; doubles from P18,960. RESORT

S C I A C C A , I TA LY

Verdura Golf & Spa Resort Two hundred and thirty hectares on Sicily’s southwestern coast have been shaped into a golf resort with the subtle, undeniable luxury we’ve come to expect from the Rocco Forte Collection. Every room has an unencumbered sea view (a non-putter might never know

RESORT

PA R K C I T Y, U TA H

Waldorf Astoria Park City It’s almost a pity that Waldorf Astoria’s first ski-in, ski-out property at the Canyons resort in Park City is so inviting. The 175 guest rooms and suites, many with fireplaces, balconies and mountain views, tempt you to stay put. But venture out since the end-of-day rewards are plenty: après-ski hot chocolate, a warm-stone massage at the Golden Door Spa, and a hearty dinner of elk and roasted potatoes at Spruce restaurant, one of Utah’s best. 2100 W.

Frostwood Blvd.; 1-435/647-5500; waldorfastoria.com; doubles from US$350. RESORT

LITH G OW, AUSTR ALIA

Wolgan Valley Resort & Spa

A serious safari experience has finally arrived down under with Emirates Airlines’ newest conservation-based resort, a three-hour drive west of Sydney. Here, freestanding 83-square-meter cottages (with indoor-outdoor plunge pools and verandas) offer views of Wolgan Valley’s rugged Grand Canyon– like setting, game drives go in search of kangaroos and wallabies, and fivecourse dinners are served in the central timbered homestead, constructed by local craftsmen. 2600 Wolgan Rd.; 61-2/ 6350-1800; emirateshotelsresorts.com; doubles from A$1,666, all-inclusive. RUSTIC

HANGZHOU, CHINA

Amanfayun

While we were swooning over Aman at Summer Palace, in Beijing, last year, hotelier Adrian Zecha was busy outdoing himself again, this time by transforming an ancient

C O U R T E S Y O F A M A N FAY U N ; C O U R T E S Y O F V E R D U R A G O L F & S P A R E S O R T

there are two 18-hole courses). Polishedconcrete floors and white-canopied beds communicate a clean, chic aesthetic, while bursts of orange and yellow—and the local majolica and ironwork—add warmth. The 15thcentury watchtower holds a pizzeria and gelateria. At the 3,700-square-meter spa, a massage with lemongrass- and zagarainfused olive oil hits all the right spots. Km 131, Contrada Verdura Sciacca SS 115; 39-0925/998-180; verduraresort.com; doubles from €567.

tea-growing village 20 minutes from Hangzhou’s city center into one of Asia’s most unique retreats. Designer Jaya Ibrahim used a light hand with the 42 villa suites : traditional brick-and-timber courtyard dwellings decorated with unvarnished elm furniture, lattice screens and delicate rice-paper lanterns. 22 Fayun Nong, West Lake Scenic Area ; 86-571/87329999; amanresorts.com; doubles from RMB3,960. RUSTIC

AYA B R A C K E T T

GREAT VALUE

UCHISAR, TURKEY

Argos in Cappadocia

Over the past year we saw the advent of an unlikely trend: the luxury cave hotel. In the hillside village of Uchisar, the site of a thousand-year-old former monastery carved out of the region’s soft volcanic rock face encompasses 33 guest rooms with arched ceilings and hand-carved wall niches. We were thrilled to find an indoor plunge pool in our Splendid suite, and soaked in the 88-degree water before settling in front of our roaring fireplace with a book. In the evenings, classical, jazz and Sufi music recitals are performed in the Bezirhane concert hall, known for its extraordinary acoustics and connected to an ancient network of

underground cave dwellings. Uchisar, Nevsehir; 90-384/219-3130; argos incappadocia.com; doubles from T£258. RUSTIC

YOUNTVILLE ,

CALIFORNIA

Bardessono This 62-room Napa Valley newcomer is upping the ante on green design: built almost exclusively from salvaged stone and reclaimed wood, it’s the world’s second LEED-certified Platinum hotel. But the modern, California-clean aesthetic (concrete floors; customdesigned couches) delivers a breath of fresh air amid Yountville’s faux French and Tuscan styles. Almost everything at the hotel, from the Coyuchi cotton bed linens to the menu at the restaurant, is organic, sourced from within a 162-kilometer radius. 6526 Yount St.; 1-707/204-6000; bardessono.com; doubles from US$550, including breakfast. RUSTIC GREAT VALUE

ACAPULCO, MEXICO

Hotel Boca Chica

Hotel Boca Chica, the latest from Grupo Habita, captures that cool 1950’s vibe (the original property was featured in Elvis’s Fun in Acapulco) and makes it stylish and new. There are 36 rooms, most with bay or ocean views, all with

white, beachy décor: jalousie doors, ceiling fans and a bed you hate to leave. Start your day with chilaquiles under the restaurant’s large-scale open-air palapa, then take the hotel’s boat to nearby La Roqueta island, an ecological reserve perfect for snorkeling, or stay poolside with an Acabrown, the hotel’s addictive tamarindand-mescal cocktail. Playa Caletilla; 52-744/482-7879; hotel-bocachica.com; doubles from M$1,227. RUSTIC

HAMPSHIRE, ENGLAND

Lime Wood

Spending a weekend in wellies never felt more stylish than at Hampshire’s handsome new Lime Wood. Although it’s not the first property to reinvent the English country house, the red-brick Regency building strikes an admirable balance between heritage and design: Robin Hutson, ex-Soho House Group director, joined forces with David Collins of London’s Blue Bar, who created the 29 cream-and-eau-denile–hued rooms, which come with large marble-and-nickel bathrooms and views out over manicured lawns. Beaulieu Rd., Lyndhurst; 4423/8028- 7177; limewoodhotel.co.uk; doubles from £197. RUSTIC

PHILIPSBURG,

M O N TA N A

Ranch at Rock Creek What’s the greatest asset of Montana’s new lodge? It’s not the four-lane bowling alley, the cowhide rugs of the cosseting nine-room country retreat, or the eight canvaswalled cabins, cozy with birch beds. It’s not the 2,670 sprawling hectares »

The rooftop deck overlooking an organic garden at Bardessono in California, left. Opposite from left: Amanfayun, in an ancient tea-growing village outside of Hangzhou; a junior suite at Verdura Golf & Spa Resort, designed by Olga Polizzi, on the southwestern coast of Sicily.

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it LIST 2010

RUSTIC

JAISALMER , INDIA

Serai Jaisalmer

Madonna’s visit in 2007 helped cement Rajasthan’s place on the global style scene, but the new Serai Jaisalmer has just increased the vogue factor. The region’s most lavish tented camp to date is set on 12 hectares in the Thar Desert: twenty-one 130-square-meter canvas guest rooms rest on smooth 110

CLASSIC

SHANGHAI

Peninsula Shanghai The Bund, home to some of Asia’s most storied hotels, has a new symbol of Art Deco opulence. Architect David Beer and interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon delivered gleaming brass-andmahogany elevators and 235 guest rooms that combine embossed glass lamps and black-lacquer screens with 21st-century amenities. All come with VoIP phones, portable master control panels, and spa tubs with music and light settings. But your most valuable asset here is savvy chief concierge Simon Huang, who may very well be the best in town. 32 The Bund; 8621/2327-8888; peninsula.com; doubles from RMB2,007.

CLASSIC

HEIDELBERG, GERMANY

Heidelberg Suites

Castle ruins and medieval squares have lured poets and composers to this Upper Rhine Valley city for centuries. Now it’s a magnet for design-conscious travelers, thanks to Heidelberg Suites. Florentine architect Michele Bönan, who wowed us with J.K. Place Capri two years ago, helped turn this former residence into 25 guest rooms and a lounge area replete with vintage books and art magazines. Though few hotels can claim front-and-center views of Heidelberg’s Old Town, we found ourselves admiring the interiors, a study of Neoclassical-inspired décor— that includes weathered mirrors and Roman busts—with cool gray walls and handsome wine-colored settees. 12 Neuenheimer Landstrasse; 496221/655-650; heidelbergsuites.com; doubles from €258.

At the Peninsula Shanghai along the Bund, above left. Above right: A scenic view of Jodhpur’s fort from Raas.

A BOV E L E F T: CO U RT ESY O F P E N I N S U L A S H A N G H A I ; CO U RT ESY O F RA AS

encompassing hiking and horsebackriding trails and a trout-filled river, all just 90 minutes from Missoula. No, it’s definitely the crackerjack staff of expert wranglers, fishermen and ranchers. Their personally tailored itineraries—complete with horseback riding, fly-fishing, hunting, archery and even photography safaris—have us city slickers feeling much more at home on the range. 79 Carriage House Lane; 1-406/859-6027; theranchatrockcreek.com; from US$800, all-inclusive.

Jaisalmer stone foundations and have spacious covered verandas (five are also fitted private plunge pools). Guests can opt for a dizzying array of excursions, from a guided tour of the nearby Jaisalmer Fort to a wildlife camel safari in the desert searching for blackbuck antelope and chikara deer. Bherwa, Chandan ; 91-11/46067608; sujanluxury.com; doubles from Rs25,000.

THROUGHOUT SOUTHEAST ASIA CLASSIC

FIESOLE, ITALY

Il Salviatino

Villa San Michele—the international set’s palazzo of choice in the Florentine hills—has finally met its match with the arrival of Il Salviatino. Hidden among ancient cypress trees in Fiesole, the handsome 15thcentury estate presents a secluded and peaceful haven with meticulously restored grounds. The relaxed residential ambience blends Old World with New— from the wood-paneled library and the 17th-century oil paintings in the guest rooms to the white leather chesterfields, well-positioned on the terrace for panoramic views of the Duomo. 21 Via del Salviatino ; 39-055/904-1111; salviatino.com; doubles from €516. CLASSIC

VENICE

Palazzina Grassi In a city known for it rich heritage, Philippe Starck has created glittering, romantically dark interiors at the intimate Palazzina Grassi, steps away from the Campo Santo Stefano. The mahogany-paneled restaurant, where a collection of rare Murano-glass objets d’art is subtly lit, serves a rich squid-ink risotto fit for a merchant prince. Twenty-six mirrored guest rooms have scratchy linen sheets (request cotton) and some overlook the Grand Canal. Don’t miss a tour in the hotel’s vintage water taxi. San Marco 3247; 39-041/528-4644; palazzinagrassi.com; doubles from €427. CLASSIC GREAT VALUE

JODHPUR, INDIA

Raas

The alleyways of Jodhpur’s ancient walled city are too narrow for cars. But guests at the Raas need not fret: a vintage-style tuk-tuk awaits to take you through ancient streets and bustling bazaars to the hotel’s grand stone archway. Inside, a cool, shaded courtyard leads to 39 sandstone-walled guest rooms that mix traditional elements (latticed chandeliers) with sleek modern touches (black terrazzo f loors). Moghul-style gardens and dazzling views of the 15th-century Mehrangarh desert fort make the Raas fit for a maharajah. Tunvarji ka-Jhalra, Makrana Mohalla ; 91-969/423-7859; raasjodhpur.com; doubles from Rs10,000. ✚ Niloufar Motamed, Sarah Kantrowitz AND Jennifer Flowers. WRITTEN BY Paul Chai, Jennifer Chen, Lisa Cheng, Anthony Dennis, Janet Forman, Jaime Gross, Serra Gurcay, Catesby Holmes, Laurie Kahle, David Kaufman, Stirling Kelso, Dannielle Kyrillos, Chris Kucway, Peter Jon Lindberg, Mimi Lombardo, Alexandra Marshall, Connie McCabe, Mario R. Mercado, Clark Mitchell, Shane Mitchell, Monalika Namchoom, Nancy Novogrod, Sandra Ramani, Katerina Roberts, Sophy Roberts, Bruce Schoenfeld, Maria Shollenbarger, Samai Singh, Tara Stevens, Laura Teusink, Valerie Waterhouse AND Pamela Young.

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THE WORLD’S LEADING TRAVEL MAGAZINE www.TravelandLeisureAsia.com

(T+L)06.10

MEMORABLE STAY AMID

TUSCANY’S

VINEYARDS .

PHOTOGRAPHED

SIMON WATSON

114 Taking in Singapore’s GREAT outdoors 124 The best of still-exotic MARRAKESH 132 ITALIAN fantasy: your own Tuscan villa 113

S I N G A P O R E, N A T U R A L L Y FAR FROM THE URBAN HUSTLE OF ORCHARD ROAD, YET CLOSE BY IN THIS MANAGEABLE CITY, YOU’LL FIND A SURPRISING NUMBER OF OUTDOOR OPTIONS TO SOOTHE YOUR ADVENTUROUS SOUL. BY MELANIE LEE. PHOTOGRAPHED BY LAURYN ISHAK

Flamingos at the Night Safari. Opposite page: The view from Jelutong Tower on Pulau Ubin.

Great Outdoors Clockwise from above: A walkway at Chek Jawa Wetlands, home to six different ecosystems; a park guide at the wetlands; the now lush Singapore Quarry makes up a part of the Bukit Timah Nature Reserve; bumboats at Changi Point Ferry Terminal waiting to take passengers on the 10-minute shuttle between the Singapore mainland and Pulau Ubin; Sambar deer at the Night Safari; a tree-climbing or vinegar crab at the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve. Center: A group of mountain bikers taking a break during a spin along Pulau Ubin’s Ketam Trail.

Standing in an air-conditioned shopping mall, amid designer labels and fast-food chains familiar the world over, it’s easy to come to the conclusion that the great outdoors is little more than a distant prospect. But that would be wrong. Within easy striking distance in this small, 710-square-kilometer city– state are hiking and cycling, mud flats and tree-top walks, nighttime safaris and tropical islands — enough to keep the adrenaline flowing in anyone who’s looking for some easy adventures. Certainly enough to ditch the shopping malls and head off into the wild. RUSTIC RESPITE For a crash course on what Singapore sans 21st-century modernization might look like, take a 10-minute bumboat ride from Changi Point Ferry Terminal (65/6545-2305; 51 Lorong Bekukong; S$2.50 per person) to the 1,020-hectare island of Pulau Ubin. Unlike razzle-dazzle Sentosa Island, the boomerang-shaped Ubin remains idyllically untouched, with only 100 residents who appear to go about their activities at a much more leisurely pace than the folks on the main island. It’s best to discover this getaway on a bicycle, which explains the noisy cluster of bike-rental shops that greet you once you step off the ferry. Pulau Ubin is decidedly laissez faire compared to other tourist destinations in Singapore, so grab a map from the information kiosk and rent a sturdy mountain bike to propel you through the gravelly terrain and sharp slopes. Otherwise head to Betel Box Hostel & Tours (65/6247-7340; betelbox.com; S$50 per person excluding bike rental), which organizes half-day cycling tours through the ins and outs of the island on Saturdays. The extent of natural life here is astounding, especially at Chek Jawa Wetlands, where six different ecosystems coexist, including mangroves, coastal forest and coral rubble. It’s also one of the few places left in Singapore with a natural rocky shore, and during low tide, it’s easy to spot barnacles, crabs and starfish beneath the rocks or wedged in crevices. There are three campsites in Pulau Ubin, each with decent views of the coast. These are ideal if you intend to stay overnight, though bear in mind that the Jelutong Campsite is the only one that permits campfires, and it’s the nearest to the town if you’re in need of last-minute supplies. The countryside settings of Pulau Ubin are home to » 117

Tropical Tales Left: Spiders are a minor hazard along the trails on Pulau Ubin. Right: Bring along binoculars on any visit to the Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve. Opposite page: Bike riders on Pulau Ubin, a quiet tropical island only 10 minutes by bumboat from Singapore proper.

some fascinating tales, such as how a quarry surface began to resemble the Goddess of Mercy after a storm and accounts of Priscilla the wild boar wagging her tail to welcome Chek Jawa visitors. The most intriguing story, however, requires a bit of off-road biking to the German Girl Shrine, a yellow shack by an Assam tree that holds the remains of a young girl from Germany who died while trying to escape British troops during World War I.

MYSTICAL MANGROVES As Singapore’s only ASEAN Heritage Park, the 130-hectare Sungei Buloh Wetlands Reserve (65/6794-1401; 301 Neo Tiew Crescent; sbwr.org.sg; free entry except on weekends and public holidays when it’s S$1 per adult) is a tranquil conservation area of mangroves, mudflats, ponds and secondary forest that is home to an array of animals. In the early morning, expect avid birdwatchers with binoculars at the observatory hides attempting to spot any of the 230 species of birds, including kingfishers, sunbirds, egrets, herons and eagles that flock to this wetland during the migratory season from September to March. Besides feathered friends, there are also plenty of swamp creatures. Mudskippers, water snakes, monitor lizards, otters and crocodiles will keep your focus at ground level. Sungei Buloh offers mainland Singapore’s largest accessible patch of mangroves, with more than 53 species of native mangrove flora—walking along any of its three trails can be a mystical experience, as you’re surrounded by a tangle of mangrove roots propping themselves almost magically above the water’s surface. “Many people think mangroves are dirty places because they look so murky and smell like rotting onions,” says Hui Ping Ang, a senior conversation officer at the reserve. “But once you get over that and just spend some time » 118

NATURE TIPS Besides the essential bottle of water and some sunscreen, remember to pack insect repellant. Mosquitoes tend to be relentless in many of these areas, and there are also sandﬂies to contend with. There are unsheltered stretches of trail in most spots, so it’s also prudent to bring along a hat as a buffer from the scorching sun, as well as a disposable poncho for sudden, tropical wet weather.

The TreeTop Walk at MacRitchie Reservoir Park.

here, you feel the soulfulness and wisdom of the mangrove, a resilient ecosystem which is neither land nor sea.” Unfamiliar with mangroves? Then the most meaningful way to appreciate all that Sungei Buloh has to offer is to walk with an experienced guide, who can point out the various plant and animal species to you. The reserve offers complimentary guided Mangrove Tours on Saturdays at 9.30 A.M. and 3.30 P.M., though there is an option of pre-booking a guided tour at S$60 for a maximum of 15 people.

RAINFOREST GALORE While the HSBC TreeTop Walk is just a 250-meter long suspension bridge, the dewy journey through lush rainforest to get to the bridge, and the rare bird’s-eye view of forest canopy when you get there, are rewarding enough to make this a worthwhile hike. The route to the TreeTop Walk starts off from MacRitchie Reservoir Park (65/6468-5736; off Lornie Rd.; nparks.gov.sg), which is about 4.5 kilometers from the bridge. This means that a round trip takes four to five hours, given that sprinting or speed walking are not ideal ways to take in the sights and sounds of this flourishing forest that is more than 150 years old. In fact, this area forms part of the Central Catchment Nature Reserve, where some of the island’s original vegetation has been conserved. It’s mindboggling to imagine that, until British colonization came into the picture in the early 19th century, Singapore was almost completely covered in foliage just like this. The forest here is home to a profusion of plants and animals, whose diversity is best viewed from the TreeTop Walk. Perched across two hills, Bukit Peirce and Bukit Kalang, this one-way bridge, up to 25 meters from the forest floor, gives visitors a panoramic view of the canopy, the uppermost strata of a tropical rainforest. With a privileged perspective of this remnant forest, you can admire the towering, majestic mature trees, swinging long-tailed macaques, white-bellied fish eagles cruising the skies and the entrancing chorus of cicada calls. Nature spotting is a bountiful affair, and almost a hundred species of birds, 10 types of mammals and 14 species of reptiles have already been spotted from this bridge alone. Of course, there’s still plenty of native flora to gaze at on your way in and out of the TreeTop Walk such as the bat lily, the rattan palm, the chempedak and, of course, the Singapore durian. “Foreign botanists who come here for »

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their research are often surprised at the huge diversity of plant life in such a small area. There are always new species being discovered every year,” says Aminurashid bin Eksan, a conservation ofﬁcer at the reserve.

NOCTURNAL WILDLIFE While this popular tourist spot is not entirely ruled by the laws of nature, the 40-hectare Night Safari (80 Mandai Lake Rd.; 65/6269-3411; nightsafari.com.sg; admission from S$22 for adults) gives its 1,040 nocturnal animals a fair amount of leeway mooching about in their cageless enclaves. Meanwhile, visitors are treated to close-up views of more than 120 species of animals including Asian elephants, Asian lions, leopards, spotted hyenas and rhinos. While a typical itinerary for the Night Safari involves taking a 45-minute tram ride and then wandering around any of the three interlinked walking trails, a more intimate way of experiencing the wildlife is to opt for the Safari Adventurer Tour, where you drive around in your own personal buggy with a guide, and have a chance to feed the elephants. Don’t forget to catch the Creatures of the Night Show before heading off for your safari. It’s a great opportunity to experience the charmingly quirky antics of nocturnal animals, like the perfectionist otter that refuses to leave the stage until it gets its trick right and the shy hyena with a case of performance anxiety.

TWO-WHEELED NATURAL THRILLS If your idea of getting in touch with nature is adrenaline-pumped spins through slopes and across rocks on two wheels, then part of your eco-itinerary should be traversing the six-kilometer Bukit Timah Mountain Biking Trail. While cycling is banned in most of Singapore’s reserves, this moderate to difﬁcult trail has been set around the boundary of Bukit Timah Nature Reserve (65/6468-5736; 177 Hindhede Dr.; nparks.gov.sg) so bicycle lovers can get back to nature. Depending on your route and skill level, the trail should take between 30 minutes to an hour to complete. Despite its relatively humble scale, it’s a wellloved spot among the local cycling community. “There is no other decent trail in Singapore,” says Thomas Wan, who has been coming here once a week for the past 15 years. Another veteran cyclist, Keith Heah, adds, “There’s a good mix of terrain and it’s difﬁcult enough to keep the casual riders away.” To rent goodquality mountain bikes, visit nearby bike shop Treknology Bikes (24 Holland Grove Rd.; 65/6466-2673; treknology3.com; S$65/day). From there, it’s just a 15-minute ride to the mountain-biking trail.

AN EASY HIKE A less taxing option for experiencing Singapore’s natural wonders is a new attraction, the Dairy Farm Nature Park (100 Dairy Farm Rd.; nparks.gov.sg), a 63-hectare green space that opened last year. Formerly a working farm, its gentle trails are suitable for hiking newbies, young kids and older folks. Fortunately, these easier treks do not compromise on the diversity of plants and animals. Historical claim to fame: it was here that renowned explorer and naturalist Alfred Wallace discovered more than 700 species of beetles in 1854. And there are signs that a thriving ecosystem still exists today: Nature lovers who come here for butterfly spotting (preferably between 9 A.M. and 3 P.M. on sunny days) have already identified more than 150 butterfly species in the area. The park’s highlight has to be the Singapore Quarry, a worksite turned wetland whose viewing platform is the perfect vantage point to appreciate the otherworldly scenic settings. You can also spot various fauna such as the little grebe, an endangered species of water bird, and the hairy emperor dragonfly. ✚ 122

EVEN MORE URBANIZED NATURE If you’re not comfortable with going 100 percent natural, there are alternatives and you can appreciate nature while retaining creature comforts. For example, you can cycle with breezy sea views at East Coast Park (65/64400046; off the East Coast Parkway; nparks.gov.sg), but this time on smooth, straight roads with few hills. The petite Fort Canning Park (65/6332-1200; 51 Canning Rise; nparks.gov.sg) throws in some archaeology and views of the Singapore River along a leisurely stroll, and you just have to descend several flights of steps to resume your shopping on Orchard Road. At Sentosa’s Butterfly Park and Insect Kingdom (65/6275-0013; 51 Imbiah Rd., Sentosa; jungle.com.sg), you can get your fix of birds, butterflies and insects at their outdoor aviaries without too much walking or eye strain.

Slug:Location (T+L Journal) Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d never guess this wetland was once a quarry.

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BEST OF MARRAKESH THIS NORTH AFRICAN CITY OF MEDIEVAL SOUKS AND WINDING STREETS IS UNDERGOING A DRAMATIC TRANSFORMATION. LONGTIME RESIDENT RICHARD ALLEMAN OPENS HIS LITTLE BLACK BOOK. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN KERNICK

Fit for a King Above, from left: A whimsical bar at Royal Mansour; local patterns adorn the hotel’s lobby; the Royal Mansour’s courtyard, with its handmade Moroccan tiles. Opposite: The dining room of Le Tanjia, where antiques and belly dancers are part of the mix.

MARRAKESH AND I GO BACK ALMOST 40 YEARS, WHEN I WAS ASSIGNED BY THE Peace Corps to teach English at the Lycée Mohammed V, deep in the medina. At the time, the city was an exotic North African backwater with only a handful of decent places to stay and eat, most of them holdovers from the French-colonial era. And the visitors were mostly hippies in search of good hash and cheap crash pads in the medina, which in those days was an unpaved, tumbledown collection of souks and town houses. Still, I loved the place: the snake charmers and acrobats on the Djemaa el-Fna, the orange-tree-edged Avenue Mohammed V, the Parisian-style Café Renaissance, in Guéliz, the sweet-smelling rose gardens, the exhilarating views of the snowcovered Atlas Mountains, and, above all, the warmth and wit of the Marrakshis. » 124

Over the next decades, I returned regularly and witnessed Marrakesh’s transformation, as stylish travelers like Jackie Onassis and Talitha Getty replaced the hippies, and ramshackle palaces and riads in the medina were turned into chic boutique hotels. In 2002, I wound up buying and restoring a small house there and have called it my second home ever since. There are now several hundred riad hotels, each trying to out-design the next, and the big international brands—Mandarin Oriental, Four Seasons—are building resorts beyond the medina. Some insiders worry that Marrakesh is perilously close to being “over,” while others say this is the mark of a bold new era. Marrakesh is essentially two cities: the medina, as the ancient walled Arab metropolis is called, and Guéliz, the name given to the part of town created by the French in 1913. South of Guéliz lies the residential neighborhood of Hivernage. While Guéliz has been somewhat overshadowed in the past decade by the rise of the medina, it is currently enjoying a bit of a renaissance itself. With its aging Art Deco villas, broad streets and roundabouts, Guéliz is Morocco at its most Western. A symbol of the area’s revival is the year-old Bab Hotel (Blvd. Mansour Eddahbi and Rue Mohammed el Beqal, Guéliz; 212-524/435-250; babhotelmarrakech.com; doubles from US$157), a mini-Delanoesque homage to the Philippe Starck aesthetic: oversize flowerpots, billowy curtains, cool white public spaces. Its pebbled half-indoor/half-outdoor garden by the pool is a perfect spot for lunch, and the top-floor Skybab Bar, set with lounging mattresses, draws the cocktail crowd in the evenings. The legendary La Mamounia (Ave. Bab Jdid, Medina; 212-524/388-600; mamounia.com; doubles from US$730), the city’s oldest hotel, lies on the border of the medina and Hivernage. The 1923 landmark recently reopened after a three-year closure, during which French designer Jacques Garcia

ARRANGED AROUND ANDALUSIAN COURTYARDS AND REFLECTING POOLS, THE ROYAL MANSOUR TOWN HOUSES HAVE SILK-PANELED WALLS reconsidered, reimagined and rebuilt every square centimeter of the place. With its dark lobby niches, mauve velvet chairs and hanging silk-shaded lamps, the new La Mamounia feels a little reminiscent of Costes (the hip Paris hotel Garcia designed in the 1990’s). But beyond the lobby, the classic La Mamounia remains—only better. The gardens have been enlarged, as has the pool, now the size of a small lake. And the suites show off the best of Moroccan craftsmanship—marble floors, mosaic-tiled walls, carved doors and meticulously painted ceilings. A few streets away is Royal Mansour (Rue Abou Abbas el Sebti, Medina; 212-529/808-080; royalmansour.com; riads from US$2,050), the personal project of His Majesty Mohammed VI, king of Morocco. He has spared no expense on the hotel, which has encountered delays but is scheduled to open later this year. Arranged around Andalusian courtyards and reflecting pools, the 53 two-story riad town houses have silk-paneled walls, tiled fireplaces and roof terraces with bedouin tents and swimming pools. A butler is available in your riad upon request—and to make sure the staff never intrudes upon your privacy, the entire compound is serviced by a network of underground tunnels. By the end of the year, the Mandarin Oriental Jnan Rahma (Bab Atlas, Palmeraie; 212-524/327777; mandarinoriental.com; doubles from US$787) will open on 53 pristine hectares in the Palmeraie, the palm forest northeast of the city. The fantasy of Morocco-based American expat architect Stuart Church, the hotel will bear a striking resemblance to the great Umaid Bhawan palace, in Jodhpur, »

North African Flair Opposite, clockwise from top left: The sedate bar at Le Foundouk; one of the courtyard balconies at Riad Farnatchi; a pumpkin mousse—ﬁlled pastry alongside lamb braised with prunes at Un Déjeuner à Marrakech; breakfast at Grand Café de la Poste, popular with French expats; the new pool and expanded gardens at La Mamounia; tea at Un Déjeuner à Marrakech; Beldi, a tiny but fashionable boutique in the medina, with its racks of jackets and caftans; Farnatchi’s room 5. Center: Medina vendors selling their wares.

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India, with its 12-meter-high gilded ceilings. The bedrooms (the smallest is 70 square meters) will have gold-leafed four-poster beds, bathrooms of white and gray marble, and terraces with daybeds looking out toward a forest and the Atlas Mountains. It’s no wonder the hotel was used as a location for Sex and the City 2 (though Marrakesh masquerades as someplace in the Middle East). Back in the medina, the riads continue to flourish. The nine-month-old Riad Siwan (28 Zanka Adika, Medina; 212-661/158-173; riadsiwan.com; doubles from US$307) is owned by a Dutch couple, Cees and Maryk Van den Berg, who have strong ties to the community and a track record of success with their popular Riad Azzar, a 10-minute walk away. A former palace, Siwan has seven large guest rooms, all appointed with locally made furniture and one-of-a-kind handblown glass lamps. Many medina properties are expanding, including Riad Farnatchi (Derb el Farnatchi, Medina; 212-524/384-910; riadfarnatchi.com; doubles from US$414), which was opened in 2004 by British hotelier Jonathan Wix (who launched the Scotsman, in Edinburgh, and Paris’s Hôtel de la Trémoille). Its five guest rooms—with large fireplaces, sunken bathtubs and Modernist furniture—were so popular that Wix acquired an adjacent mansion and incorporated four more chic suites set around a maze of courtyards, terraces and bhous (alcove seating areas). Similarly, at Riad Noir d’Ivoire (31 Derb Jdid, Bab Doukkala; 212-524/380-975; noir-d-ivoire.com; doubles from US$245), in the Bab Doukkala area of the medina, co-owner Jill Fechtmann pulled out all the stops. Opulent rooms here have a mix of Moroccan, Syrian and Indian furniture. Next door, Fechtmann created three of the largest riad suites in Marrakesh, along with an 11-meter lap pool in the courtyard. Meanwhile, over at Riad El Fenn (2 Derb Moulay Abdallah Ben Hezzian, Medina; 212-524/441-210; riadelfenn.com; doubles from

AFTER THE SOUKS, GUÉLIZ PROVIDES AN ANTIDOTE FOR SHOPPERS WHO LIKE TO LOOK AND NOT BE PRESSURED INTO BUYING US$365), one of the medina’s flashiest addresses, co-owner Vanessa Branson (sister of Richard) has tripled the size of the place since it opened in 2003. Favored by the British media and art-world elite, El Fenn now encompasses three adjacent palaces, with 22 extraordinary rooms—featuring leather floors and plunge pools—plus a rooftop putting green, three pools and even a small theater.

WHEN I WAS IN TOWN LAST FALL WITH SEVERAL HOUSEGUESTS IN TOW, I FOUND my usual welcome-to-the-medina circuit blocked by crowds watching the filming of Sex and the City 2. Under normal circumstances, I start this tour at the northwestern edge of the famous Djemaa elFna and enter the souks via an archway just beyond the Place Bab Fteuh that leads to Rue Laksour. There, the tiny boutique Beldi (9-11 Rue Laksour, Medina; 212-524/441-076) dresses Marrakesh’s most fashionable residents in linen shirts, mandarin-collared cashmere jackets and embroidered silk caftans. Rue Laksour feeds into my favorite street, Rue Mouassine, where hole-in-the-wall shops showcase artfully arranged pottery, lanterns and Berber carpets. The latest addition to this area is KIS, or Keep It Secret (36 Derb Fhal Chidmi, Mouassine; 212-656/040-270), a by-appointment boutique hidden in a medina house that carries more caftans, as well as jewelry and bags designed by Brazilian globe-trotter Adriana Bittencourt and her French partner, Caroline Constancio. After the hassle and haggling of the souks, Guéliz provides an antidote for low-key shoppers who like to look and not be pressured into buying (one of the downsides of the medina). Many of the best shops lie along a two-block stretch of Rue de la Liberté. Among them: Atika (34 Rue de la Liberté, Guéliz; 212-524/436-409), which has a loyal following of travelers who come just for the latest models and colors of its Tod’s-like loafers (most less than US$50 a pair). On the corner of Rue de la Liberté and Avenue Mohammed V, Intensité Nomade (139 Blvd. Mohammed V, Guéliz; 212-524/431-333) sells brightly colored caftans by owner Frédérique Birkemeyer, as well as soft leather pants for » 128

Dusk on the rooftop terrace of Riad Siwan.

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An Atlas Palace room at the Mandarin Oriental Jnan Rahma.

women, raw-silk pants for men and Casablanca designer Karim Tassi’s jeans, slinky suits and sweaters. On the opposite corner, Place Vendôme (141 Blvd. Mohammed V, Guéliz; 212-524/435263) carries top-quality Moroccan leather goods, from US$10 men’s wallets to US$200 jackets. One of Guéliz’s newest boutiques, Moor (7 Rue des Anciens Marrakchis, Guéliz; 212-524/458-274) is the creation of Yann Dobry (who also owns the stylish shop Akbar Delights). Dobry’s new outpost, hung with distinctive lacquered lanterns, features his beautifully embroidered linen, silk and cotton tunics. With its booming hotels and riads, Marrakesh’s restaurant scene is keeping pace, but it helps to know where to go, as new places make their big splash, then drown just as quickly. One of my favorites is Le Tobsil (22 Derb Moulay Abdallah, Ben Hezzian, Medina; 212-524/444-052; dinner for two US$146), where owner Christine Rio offers a prix fixe feast of Moroccan dishes, including moist pastilla (pigeon pie), lamb or chicken tagine, couscous and dessert, all served at candlelit tables in an arcaded riad, with Gnaoua musicians playing softly in the background. On the southern edge of the medina, in the former Jewish quarter known as the Mellah, is Le Tanjia (14 Derb Jdid, Mellah; 212-524/383-836; dinner for two US$46), the brainchild of Marrakshi restaurateur Nourredine Fakir. This multilevel restaurant pays homage to its location with antique menorahs and historic photographs of the area. Belly dancers perform tableside while you sample tender beef tanjia—named for the narrow earthenware pot in which it is slow-cooked. The scene is more sedate at the medina haunt Le Foundouk (Souk Hal Fassi, Medina; 212-524/378-190; dinner for

THEATRO, THE FORMERLY SEDATE HOTEL SUPPER CLUB WHERE MAURICE CHEVALIER AND JOSEPHINE BAKER PERFORMED, IS NOW A DANCE-TILL-DAWN SPOT two US$73), where the décor—gigantic spindly chandeliers; metal sconces—outshines the menu of Moroccan, French and Thai dishes. Every visitor to Marrakesh has to try Dar Yacout (79 Derb Sidi Ahmed Soussi, Bab Doukkala; 212-524/382-929; dinner for two US$170), a medina institution. Designed in the 1990’s by American expat architect Bill Willis, this fantasy palace—shiny tadelakt (polished plaster) walls, scalloped columns and striped turrets—has influenced Moroccan interiors ever since. The standard-issue Moroccan menu is less memorable than the theatricality of the presentation. For a light lunch, stop at Un Déjeuner à Marrakech (2-4 Place Douar Graoua, Medina; 212524/378-387; lunch for two US$30), a cool new restaurant with an attractive staff on the Riad Zitoun Jdid street, a buzzing shopping strip I’ve loved for years. In Guéliz, head to Grand Café de la Poste (Corner of Blvd. Mansour Eddahbi and Ave. Imam Malik, Guéliz; 212-524/433-038; lunch for two US$73), where you could almost be in Indochina, circa 1950, sitting under slow-turning ceiling fans on a bamboo-shaded veranda. It’s popular with French expats, who treat it as their own private club. Marrakesh offers plenty of sizzle after dark—from funky clubs like African Chic (6 Rue Oum Errabia, Guéliz; 212-661/430-445), in Guéliz, with live bands, to Hivernage’s ultracool Comptoir (Ave. Echouhada, Hivernage; 212-524/437-702), a slick lounge that features belly dancers in Bollywoodstyle production numbers. Théâtro (Hôtel Es Saadi, 34 Ave. Qadissia, Hivernage; 212-524/448-811), the formerly sedate supper club of the Hôtel Es Saadi, where Maurice Chevalier and Josephine Baker performed, is now a dance-till-dawn spot. My favorite nighttime hideaway is the roof terrace of Kosybar (47 Place des Ferblantiers, Mellah; 212-524/380-3024), which plays loungy Brazilian music. Having a nightcap here and looking out on the salmon-colored walls of the ancient Badi Palace—topped with storks’ nests—you experience the essence of Marrakesh now: the ease with which this worldly desert crossroads accepts and mixes past and present, classic and cutting-edge. ✚ 131

Up at the Tuscan Villa

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the ultimate Italian fantasy: staying amid vineyards and olive groves at a centuries-old estate with all the services of a top hotel. Christopher Petkanas visits three properties that are setting new standards. Plus, five for Â¤215 a night or less. Photographed by Simon Watson

Room 33, one of only 14, at Il Borgo, a Federico Forquetâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; designed villa on the Castello BanďŹ estate. Opposite: A view of olive groves from the loggia at the villa.

OR YEARS TRAVELERS ASKED NO

more of Tuscany than its light and land-

scape, its Renaissance legacy, its food and wine. If the hotels were a bit low on amenities, if the person who rolled out the pasta in the kitchen turned out to be the same person who made your bed, there was plenty of charm and buona volantà—goodwill—to go around. A trip to the region was its own reward. Tuscany became one of those rare, iconic, inexhaustible destinations people return to again and again—and again. Thirty years have passed since it and Provence became fashionable rivals. But while the south of France can sometimes be guilty of forgetting what drew people to it in the first place, Tuscany never sold its soul or succumbed to its own popularity. Icon, yes; diva, no. Today, a new generation of hotels has arrived in the region, just in time to keep the experience fresh. One of them is part of the recent borgo phenomenon—the transformation of ancient rural hamlets into one-of-a-kind, all-in-one properties that include restaurants, shops and vineyards. Two others are stand-alone villas with rich histories and important architecture. All offer sublime creature comforts and aspire to a level of crackerjack service that is off the charts. They’re so sophisticated they would not be out of place on the poshest stretch of the Amalfi Coast. As Tuscany grows up, it’s time to go back.

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Tuscan Delights From left: Il Borgo’s pool and the surrounding, peaceful gardens; waitress Giovanna Radi at the isolated estate; a sweeping view of the valley greets visitors to the 2,900-hectare property; one of three pools at the Villa Mangiacane, in Chianti.

Il Borgo, Poggio alle Mura

astello Banfi is one of the largest wine estates in Tuscany and, since the opening of its new hotel, Il Borgo, probably the most stylish. Federico Forquet gets credit for the style; the Italian-American Mariani family for the wine. Its most famous Brunellos are the single-vineyard reserve Poggio all’Oro and the unfiltered cru Poggio alle Mura. Forquet began his career as an assistant to Balenciaga, launching his own couture house in Rome in 1962, when he was dubbed “the Italian Dior.” In those days any Italian princess worth her Buccellati salt cellars dressed at Forquet. Ten years later he dropped out of the fashion world, moving on to design gardens and, drawing on his Neapolitan background, decorate houses of sighing Viscontian splendor for clients like Marella Agnelli and Oscar de la Renta—people known to be among the toughest domestic taskmasters of our time. Having attained the status of Elder Statesman (Elder Tasteman?),

Forquet accepts only those jobs he finds alluring enough to take him away from his home an hour from Banfi, in Cetona. Sometimes the jobs involve the interiors of gold-plated hotels: the Caruso, in Ravello; the Villa San Michele, in Fiesole; and now Il Borgo. The 14-room hilltop property was coaxed out of a hamlet built in the 1700’s to lodge farmworkers and household staff serving the eighth-century castle just above it. The population peaked at about 300 in the decade leading up to World War I and remained stable until 1950, when land reform introduced by the Italian government dismantled the old sharecropping system. Il Borgo’s reception occupies the bottega and mail pickup and dropoff that closed before the Marianis acquired Banfi in 1984. By then the number of inhabitants had shrunk to fewer than 20. Today, the old schoolroom is room No. 37. Not that you get any feeling for what used to go on in these spaces. Still, knowing adds texture. The hotel’s perched location pays off in extravagant views and a sense of privileged isolation. Folded into the castle are a reading room that is the last word in fringed and » 135

Olive groves at the Villa Mangiacane, in Chianti. Right: The villa’s restored 15th-century façade. Opposite: Il Borgo on the Castello Banﬁ wine estate.

upholstered comfort, a museum with the largest private collection of ancient Roman glassware in the world (plus works in glass by Dalí, Cocteau and Picasso), and a spectacular courtyard where jazz concerts are held in the summer. With lessons learned as the creators of Jumby Bay, Antigua, the Marianis are selling an everything-money-can-buy version of Italian village life that, of course, never existed. Italian villages do not typically have swimming pools of such magnificent restraint and purity they might have been designed by architect John Pawson, or cloisters curtained in wisteria and planted with box-edged rose gardens. But if you’re the kind of person for whom vacation rhymes with discretion, Il Borgo could be a problem. People are forever popping out of their front doors and greeting their neighbors across the way. In other words, there’s not much anonymity, though you can always escape to a leafy out-of-the-way corner. One of five stepped outbuildings marching up to the castle walls houses La Taverna, an earthbound trattoria whose signature dish, pinci, a thick spaghetti, is tossed with classic Tuscan ragù (the small amount of tomato is what makes it Tuscan). Next door is a massive, handsome enoteca that also sells Banfi olive oil, colorful ceramics by regional potters, artisanal soaps and even a category of jewelry, “wine jewelry,” I’m not sure I’m aware of. Anyway hooking a tiny bunch of bronze 136

grapes around a stemmed glass of Poggio all’Oro seems rather cruel. A condiment that is rightly not called balsamic vinegar, as we are not in Emilia-Romagna, but rather salsa etrusca, is made in a dedicated chamber following a modified version of the traditional sistema soleras used to make authentic balsamico. With all these visitor-friendly features, Banfi is one of the few estates in the area to encourage walk-ins, though an appointment is necessary to visit the winery. It’s five minutes by car or a 20-minute power walk through the vineyards. As for Forquet, a lot of people don’t get his thing for rattan furniture and checked fabrics. They want to know what the big deal is. Well, the big deal is the way he casually mixes these modest elements with rich ones, like ballooning Austrian shades and orchids in silver cachepots polished until you can see yourself in them. Fantasy—walls painted with a vinewrapped trellis, a faux-bois mantelpiece “carved” with grapes—is another ingredient in Forquet’s best work. The real triumph of Il Borgo is that, despite some of its trappings, it’s neither pretentious nor excessively formal. A few things are inexplicable, like the Pringles served with drinks in the reading room. And it might want to rethink floating flower heads in the toilet bowls. But every hotel is allowed one or two false notes. Sant’Angelo Scalo, Poggio alle Mura, Montalcino; 39-0577/877-700; castellobanfiilborgo.com; doubles from ¤420. »

The real triumph of Il Borgo is that, despite some of its trappings, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s neither pretentious nor formal

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Villa Mangiacane, San Casciano in Val di Pesa

his hotel is for people who have been to Florence before and want to get to know the Chianti wine district outside it without sacrificing easy access to the city. Twelve kilometers separate Villa Mangiacane and the Tuscan capital, a distance the hotel invites guests to cover in a free shuttle. You can shoot down to Florence in the late afternoon for some quick retail therapy and be back at Mangiacane in time for Negronis on the loggia, a sprawling, glamorous space with large-scale frescoes of hunting scenes and waist-high olive-oil jars from nearby Impruneta—but also lacquered Japanese stools, carved Balinese tables and ottomans covered in zebra skin. The architecture may be vernacular, and that tower in the distance is definitely the Duomo, but the villa speaks the international language of resort design with proud fluency. For better or worse, a very deliberate effort has been made to keep things global. Itself a rolling 242-hectare wine estate (grappa and olive oil are also produced here), Mangiacane was built in the 15th

century by Giorgio Vasari for Cardinal Francesco Maria Machiavelli, uncle of the hotheaded political philosopher Niccolò Machiavelli, who wrote his notorious screed on power, The Prince, at the estate. Vasari’s friendship with Michelangelo has encouraged the belief that they collaborated on the villa, but this is probably no more than wishful thinking on the part of Mangiacane’s current owner, Zimbabwe-born Glynn Cohen, founder of the largest transportation company in sub-Saharan Africa. Still, the property’s pedigree is such that the original plans are archived in the Uffizi Gallery. Not too shabby. Besides the Machiavellis, it had belonged to only one other family before Cohen purchased it in 2000. This limited unwanted changes and wear and tear, but the building was badly damaged in World War II and deserted soon after. Cohen’s restoration netted eight guest rooms in the villa and 19 more in a converted farmhouse. Naturally, the farmhouse rooms—some of which have a slightly racy, louche appeal—go for a lot less. But after staying in one, I can’t pretend I didn’t feel like I was missing the party—what, after all, was I here for if not the grandeur and romance of the villa? And yet I find it impossible to regret not having shelled out the additional ¤297—more than half the price of my annex room »

Chianti Classic Above, left: Stepping into the Villa Mangiacane, in San Casciano in Val di Pesa, south of Florence. Above, right: Room 25 at the Villa Mangiacane, in Chianti. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The entrance to the Villa Mangiacane; general manager Paolo Barzagli and Tanja von Arnim; breakfast on the vineyard patio, part of the 242-hectare wine estate; the beautifully restored 15th-century interior.

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Italian Luxe Opposite, clockwise from left: The gardens at the 12th-century Castello del Nero, in Tavarnelle Val di Pesa; the monastic but friendly 50-room villa; a claw-foot tub awaits in the bathroom of suite 118; a waiter at Del Nero’s restaurant, where diners are king.

—it would have cost for entry-level digs in the villa. If you notice, this is a circular argument, one as old as travel itself. Creating memories can be expensive. You can time your stay at Mangiacane to participate in the grape and olive harvests, though I doubt the hotel gets many takers. Service is choppy, unless you think half an hour is a reasonable amount of time to mix a Negroni. Mangiacane has the veneer but not the superstructure of a luxury hotel, where everything is seamless and possible. Which is why I was surprised that the food is as good as it is. The bistecca fiorentina is from the famed Antica Macelleria Cecchini, in neighboring Panzano. Osso bucco is deconstructed into a sauce for potato gnocchi. Chef Massimo Bocus coaxes the logic out of putting chocolate ice cream, bread, fleur de sel and a slick of olive oil on the same plate. And isn’t it wonderful in this day and age when your waitress is local and speaks terrible English? 4 Via Faltignano, San Casciano Val di Pesa; 39-055/829-0123; mangiacane.com; doubles from ¤370.

Castello del Nero, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

rom Italy to Osaka, modern and fancy is the default look for five-star properties. But Castello del Nero—a 12th-century repository of trompe l’oeil paintwork, coffered ceilings and handblown leaded-glass windows— is subtle, thoughtful, abstemious. Most people are too busy timing room service to notice the halls in a hotel, but here

they tell the whole story: monastic but friendly, with glassy Venetian-stucco walls, pierced-tole lanterns, beautiful ironwork and not a lot else. The man who rejected jazzing up Del Nero is Alain Mertens, a low-profile Belgian decorator with high-profile clients like Sting and Madonna. The search for a real, proper, full-service luxury hotel in Tuscany ends here. Del Nero sets the bar in the region with crisp professionalism (even if it can organize a formal custom tasting of the top 20 Vernaces, say, in less time than it takes to strike a match). Spas in hotels this size (50 rooms) are often afterthoughts. But the Espa facility here is as fastidiously designed as anything in Milan. Whether or not sea salt, rosemary and olive oil makes a better massage lubricant than salad dressing is another story. And if you have to exercise, it may as well be in a medieval castle with barrel-vaulted ceilings held up by wide-waisted pillars of brick and stone. I’ve never worked out in a gym with so much atmosphere, or history. The one place Del Nero goes a little off message is the dining room. This has nothing to do with the crested china or the panzanella quenelles, which are formed tableside by the maître d’hôtel with an easy flourish. The red flag is the appetizer that comes before the pre-appetizer, a martini glass of celery mousse speckled with black sesame seeds. The way you know the hotel gets a lot of Americans is that when you order the fiorentina, the waiter asks how you’d like it. In a real Tuscan restaurant you’re never asked and the steak arrives wobbling rare. At Del Nero the right way is your way. It sounds corny, but the customer really is king. 7 Strada Spicciano, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa; 39-055/806-470; castellodelnero.com; doubles from ¤400. ✚

TUSCAN VILLA HOTELS Five great value options

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LOCANDA DEL GLICINE A medieval house converted into a bed-and-breakfast in a tiny Maremma village. Rooms are modest, but the cavernous wine cellar and brick-walled restaurant more than compensate. 6—10 Piazza Garibaldi, Campagnatico; 39-056/499-6490; locandadelglicine.com; doubles from ¤130.

VILLA IL POGGIALE A Renaissance house with 24 guest rooms and the ambience of an informal country house. Guests carry their own frontdoor keys and serve themselves drinks at cocktail hour in the drawing room. 69 Via Empolese, San Casciano in Val di Pesa; 39-055/828-311; villailpoggiale.it; doubles from ¤130.

VILLA BORDONI Food and design get equal billing at this hillside house in Chianti. Upstairs, antiques personalize the 11 rooms; downstairs, the restaurant’s chef offers up excellent, farm-fresh meals and on-site cooking classes. 31/32 Via San Cresci, Greve in Chianti; 39055/884-0004; villabordoni.com; doubles from ¤210.

VILLA POGGIANO Close to the wine-producing village of Montepulciano, this 18th-century house is fresh from an eight-year restoration of its antiques-ﬁlled rooms. Outside, there’s a 1930’s swimming pool with Neoclassical fountains. 7 Via di Poggiano, Montepulciano; 39-0578/758292; villapoggiano.com; doubles from ¤215.

Florence SWITZERLAND FRANCE

AUSTRIA

San Casciano in Val di Pesa

SLOVENIA CROATIA

I T A LY

Tavarnelle Val di Pesa

Rome

Greve in Chianti

Siena

S223

Castagneto Carducci S1 0

Montepulciano

S73

Campagnatico

Montalcino

16 km

VILLA LE LUCI All seven rooms of the Belle Époque villa look out onto the coast and the Mediterranean beyond. Neo-Baroque ﬂourishes cheer

up otherwise austere décor. 47 Via Umberto I, Castagneto Carducci; 39-056/576-3601; villaleluci.it; doubles from ¤145.

— VA L E R I E

WAT E R HOU S E

(My Favorite Place) The bridges straddling Canal St.-Martin in Paris, right. Inset: Atom Egoyan.

FRANCE

EGOYAN’S TRAVEL TIPS

RUE DE LANCRY WINDS ITS WAY DOWN TO THE CANAL ST.-MARTIN, A THREEkilometer waterway in the 10th Arrondissement built under Napoléon. Now the street is modern and charming and lined with small shops, boulangeries, Italian and Middle Eastern grocers, and plenty of restaurants. I like to walk across the iron bridge that lets you off in front of the Hôtel du Nord, which is not a hotel at all but a restaurant and café that’s full of books. People spend the entire day there, it’s so comfortable. The neighborhood is trendy in an unforced way—it used to be rather unknown, but now it’s at a particular moment in its evolution when it all feels balanced between the old and new. The bridges over the canal have very steep staircases—they must be very high to allow room for the barges to go through. The ancient locks function as they have since 1825. It’s thrilling to be on top of one of the bridges when the machinery moves and water rushes in on the way to the Seine. You can hear only the sound of the river and the shrieks of children from a nearby playground. It’s a timeless moment—pure magic. ✚ HE

Atom Egoyan is the director of The Sweet Hereafter and Exotica. His latest film is the thriller Chloe, set in Toronto and starring Julianne Moore, Liam Neeson and Amanda Seyfried. 142

JUNE 2 0 1 0 | T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

CANALSIDE DINING “Try the house-made duck confit at Hôtel du Nord (102 Quai de Jemmapes, 10th Arr.; 33-1/40-40-78-78; dinner for two ¤63).” FRENCH DESIGN FIND “ArtaZart (83 Quai de Valmy, 10th Arr.; 33-1/40-40-24-03) may be the best bookshop in Paris. The Canadian owner stocks 19,000 titles on art, photography, architecture and illustration.” A DIRECTOR’S DISCOVERY “On my first trip to Paris I found small Left Bank cinemas showing movies I had only dreamed of seeing on a screen. Action Christine (4 Rue Christine, 6th Arr.; 33-1/43- 25-85-78) opened in the 1970’s and specializes in films d’auteur.”

Canadian filmmaker Atom Egoyan introduces DANI SHAPIRO to the canal, streets and grocers found throughout Paris’s 10th Arrondissement

PARIS HOTEL PICK “I love the 57-room Lancaster (7 Rue de Berri, 8th Arr.; 331/40-76-40-76; hotel-lancaster. fr; doubles from ¤520), set in a 19th-century mansion near the Champs-Élysées.”