Hilton

BEIJING + SHANGHAI ESSE N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S • VO L U M E O N E

BEIJING | INTRODUCTION

THE CENTRE OF THE UNIVERSE

Beijing (meaning ‘northern capital’) has a long history of over a thousand years. It first became a walled city in AD 938, when nomadic tribes established the southern capital of the Liao dynasty. It later flourished as a major Chinese city during the Ming period (1368–1644) when the Yongle Emperor moved the capital to Beijing and reconstructed much of the battle-scarred cityscape. The Forbidden City and Ming tombs were built; resettlement from Nanjing (the former capital) also took place at this time. The repaired Grand Canal shipped in vital supplies as the city expanded to become the seat of political power.

As Beijing became firmly established during the Ming and Qing dynasties, an influx of influences expanded and deepened its cultural milieu. Over 2000 temples and shrines are testament to a sort of religious competition that grew under the emperors. Later, Christianity added to the eclectic mix of religions found in Beijing today. Many artists, artisans and scientists also arrived in the city during imperial times, reflecting the fact that Beijing was seen as the centre of the universe.

Today China is again flexing its muscles. In 1998, Jiang Zemin launched the greatest urban renewal scheme in Beijing for centuries, worth at least US$200 billion. The Olympic Games brought further investment, and today the city is resplendent in new infrastructure and facilities: high rise development, new shopping malls, and a growing metro system. However, a deep and fascinating past can be revealed by peeling away just a few layers of this ancient city – history that is vibrant and living, as well as beautifully preserved.

HUTONG Hutong represent the essence of old Beijing: narrow lanes and courtyard houses that date back centuries. Many hutongs have been demolished, but there have been efforts to preserve these unique districts, and some are now protected by law.

Nanluogu Xiang An old hutong transformed into an area of bars, cafes, funky guesthouses, and stylish shops.

Prince Gong’s Residence 14 Liuyin Jie. Tel: 6616 5005 This is a large attractive residence, with performances by the Beijing Opera in the historic Grand Opera House on its grounds.

H I S TO R Y T H AT I S V I B R ANT AND L IV I N G , A S W E L L AS B E AU T I F U L LY P R E S ERVED.

BEIJING | GUIDE

EATING Ghost Street Dongzhimennei Dajie The place to absorb the highly social atmosphere of Chinese restaurant culture, this 1.4km strip is home to over 150 eateries and never sleeps. It caters to a wide slice of Beijing’s population.

sugar). The restaurants, usually packed, are clean and modern, and it is wise to make a reservation.

Café de la Poste 58 Yonghegong Dajie. Tel: 6402 7047 This friendly bistro near the Lama Temple is a much loved rendezvous for French expats, and includes a small bar. The food is hearty fare, and there is a decent wine list.

Bookworm Building 5, Nansanlitun Lu. Tel: 6586 9507 Bookworm is a bar, café, restaurant, and library combined, and a favourite of Beijing’s intellectuals and bohemians. It is roomy and airy, with a unique ambiance, and there is a terrace for al fresco dining in the summer. Regular poetry readings and talks are held here, and the venue also hosts the Beijing International Literary Festival.

Beijing Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant Chaoyang: Building 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou. Tel: 6582 2892 Dongcheng: 1st floor, Nanxincang International Plaza, 22 Dongsishitiao Lu. Tel: 5169 0328/29 This famous duck restaurant is a must visit for its crisp and tender lean duck (with skin infused with

SHOPPING Chaoyang district, including Sanlitun and Jianguomenwai Dajie, contains a wide variety of outlets.

Check out Village (19 Sanlitun Lu; Tel: 6419 8900), and also Place (9a Guanghua Lu; Tel: 8595 1755), which contains the excellent Charterhouse Booktrader bookstore

(Tel: 6587 1328) on the third floor.

The Sanlitun Yashow Clothing Market (58 Gongrentiyuchang Beilu; tel: 6416 8945) and Five Colours Earth (25th floor, Building 14, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu; Tel: 5869 2923) are also worth a visit.

For a taste of shopping hutong style, visit Dashilan, south of Qianmen, a multitude of shops offering tea, silk, herbal medicines, clothes, food, and much else.

NIGHTLIFE Lan 4th Floor, Twintowers Shopping Mall, B-12 Jianguomenwai Dajie.

Tel: 5109 6012 Philippe Starck created this salubrious club, and you can see his brand of glamour here (baroque paintings, mirrors, Baccarat crystal crushed velvet and antique furniture), satisfying a regular clientele of celebrities and high society.

The Chinese cuisine is impeccable, and there is an oyster bar too.

Previous pages: Pavilion in the Summer Palace; part of the Great Wall at dawn This page: Kun Ming Lake in the Summer Palace; roasted Peking Duck; China National Grand Theater

East Shore Jazz Café 2nd Floor, 2 Shichahai Nanyan. Tel: 8403 2131 Opened in 2006 by Liu Yuan (formerly Cui Jian’s saxophonist), this is the most authentic jazz scene in Beijing. A narrow staircase leads to the club, with its dark wood panels, floor to ceiling windows offering views over Houhai, and a roof terrace. Local jazz bands regularly play here.

ART AND HISTORY 798 Art District 2 & 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu. Tel: 6438 4862 This arts district is not centrally located, so it may be worth dedicating a day to explore it. Based in old factory facilities, the area pays homage to its proletarian past with Maoist slogans and other insignia.

However, the art is often modern and cutting edge. The district includes the Chinese Contemporary Beijing (Tel: 8456 2421), the 798 Photo Gallery (Tel: 6438 1784),

and the Beijing Tokyo Art Projects (Tel: 8457 3245). The area is dotted with good bars and cafes.

Summer Palace Tel: 6288 1144 The Summer Palace is testament to China’s imperial past, being once a relaxing summer retreat for emperors and the court.

It includes the large Kumming Lake and numerous Buddhist temples.

Take the ferry from the northern shore, near the large Marble Boat pavilion (built by Empress Dowager Cixi), to South Lake Island. It is also worth walking around the lake, taking in the ornate Long Corridor, to get a feel of the Qing extravagance of the Summer Palace.

palaces, and numerous temples and outbuildings, were home to the Ming and Qing emperors in a period stretching over more than 600 years; it was only in 1911 that dynastic rule ended. The Gate of Heavenly Peace, just north of Tianananmen Square (and hung with Mao’s giant visage), is not the entrance to the Forbidden City, but is an important symbol in itself.

The entrance is further north, beyond the moat, at Meridian Gate.

The Workers Cultural Palace, just northeast of the Gate of Heavenly Peace, is also worth a visit.

Here, the Supreme Temple was the Emperor’s primary place of worship in tranquil surroundings.

Forbidden City The Forbidden City, of prime historical significance, dates back to 1406 and was once part of the larger Imperial City of central Beijing. These great halls and

Lao She Museum 19 Fengdu Hutong. Tel: 6559 9218 Formerly the courtyard home of the important writer and teacher Lao She, this absorbing exhibition details the author’s life.

SHANGHAI | INTRODUCTION

THE SPLENDOUR OF SHANGHAI

Shanghai (the name loosely means ‘above the sea’) was a fishing and cotton textile town before it became the most important port on the Yangtze Delta, during the Qing period, bolstered by international trade.

Following the First Opium War, the Treaty of Nanking of 1842 (and subsequent agreements) opened treaty ports and lead to foreign concessions in Shanghai. The British and Americans founded the International Settlement, alongside the French Concession. A small but vibrant foreign community formed, including British, Americans, Dutch and Russians, and by the end of the 19th century, the Japanese too were involved in Shanghai. The concessions ended after World War II, and in May 1949 the People’s Liberation Army took firm control of the city. Shanghai’s swinging, ‘Paris of the East’ era (that had peaked in the first decades of the 20th century) was now put to an end by Communists who had, ironically, held their first meeting in the French Concession in 1921.

In the early 1990s, however, the Chinese government began heavy investment in Shanghai, including construction of the metro, elevated highways, the MagLev, and an international airport. The new district of Pudong, east of the Huangpu River, is earmarked as the new financial capital of China and Asia. Shanghai is a fascinating and dynamic work in progress, but its future trajectory is by no means certain. A city, after all, is about more than new skyscrapers and highways.

THE BUND This former financial district around Zhongshan Road now boasts a wide range of bars, restaurants and hotels. It runs from Yan’an Road in the south to Waibaidu Bridge in the north.

To the west is the People’s Square.

THE FRENCH CONCESSION The French Concession, centred around Huaihai Road, is a most elegant part of Shanghai.

Despite rapid development across the city, still retains its distinct old colonial character and beauty.

It has a full retinue of clubs, bars, shops and restaurants – some of the best in Shanghai.

S H A N G H A I I S A FA S C INATING A N D DY N A M I C WORK I N P RO G R E S S.

SHANGHAI | GUIDE

Previous page: The Bund by night; Pudong sunrise This page: Xiao Long Bao Chinese dumplings; view from a roof terrace; the Bund night view

EATING M on the Bund 7/F, Five on the Bund, 20 Guangdong Lu, near Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu. Tel: 6350 9988 Opened by Australian Michelle Garnaut, this well-established restaurant boasts panaromic views and good continental cuisine. The renowned Glamour Bar is downstairs.

Jean Georges 4/F, Three on the Bund, 17 Guangdong Lu, near Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu. Tel: 6321 7733 The one and only Jean Georges: superb French cuisine with a dash of Asian influence, a culinary wonder. You may also want to check out the eel-skin sofas.

The Kitchen Salvatore Cuomo 2967 Binjiang Da Dao, near Fenghe Lu. Tel: 5054 1265 Situated on the Pudong waterfront

beneath the Oriental Pearl Tower, and boasting open-air views, Salvatore Cuomo’s eatery has a reputation for excellent Italian cuisine – including, of course, wood fired pizzas. Molto bene!

Lynn 99 Xikang Lu, near Nanjing Xi Lu. Tel: 6247 0101 Serving Shanghainese cuisine with a Cantonese twist, this is a consistently good and stylish restaurant, with a great atmosphere. Excellent lunch dim-sum, and ‘all you can eat on’ weekends.

El Willy 20 Donghu Lu, near Huaihai Lu. Tel: 5404 5757 Named after chef Guillermo ‘Willy’ Trullas, serving modern Spanish fare in a rustic, friendly French Concession mansion – and there is a good wine list too.

THE ART OF SHOPPING Changle Road in the French Con-

cession is renowned for its cutting edge fashion boutiques, including Elbis Hungi and La Vie, as well as traditional tailoring.

Taiking Road Art Centre A stroll around the alleys of Taiking Road in the French Concession is rewarding. There are numerous creative boutiques selling jewellery, silverware, tapestries, craftwork and clothing. There is a clear artistic focus here, as the studios, workshops and galleries attest to.

Check out Not Just Silver (silverware), Esydragon (crafts), Joma (Himalayan tapestries), and Chouchou Chic (children’s clothes).

Xintiandi Designed by Benjamin Wood, this district in the north east of the French Concession preserves the traditional lanes and shikumen of Shanghai. Numerous boutiques abound, and eateries include the

excellent Crystal Jade (2/F, South Block Plaza, Lane 123 Xingye Lu) for Cantonese cuisine.

The DR Bar (Xintiandi North Block, Lane 181 Taicang Lu) is also worth a visit. Xintiandi North Block also includes the site of the 1st National Congress of the CCP, as well as the Shikumen Open House Museum, an insight into these uniquely Shanghainese buildings. South west of Xintiandi on Sinan Road is Zou Enlai’s Former Residence, a striking ivy covered house in a beautiful area of the French Concession.

The Bund The Bund is known for luxury shopping. Highlights include Annabel Lee (No 1, Lane 8, East Zhongshan No 1 Road), for exquisite silk and linen embroidery, Silk King (66 East Nanjing Road), Blue Shanghai White (Unit 103, 17 Fuzhou Road) which sells hand painted porcelain,

and also the Bund flagship store of Taiwanese fashion designer Shiatzy Chen (9 East Zhongshan No 1 Road). Meanwhile, the Foreign Languages Bookstore (390 Fuzhou Road) is a great place to browse away the hours.

NIGHTLIFE Cotton Club 1416 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Fuxing Lu. Tel: 6437 7110 Wynton Marsalis once played here, and the venue has a deserved reputation as the place for live jazz in a smoky atmosphere.

JZ Club 46 Fuxing Lu, near Yongfu Lu, Tel: 6431 0269 Enjoy jazz, Latin and R&B in a dark and smoky old Shanghai ambiance, the genuine article. There is also a rooftop patio.

Glamour Bar 6/F, Five on the Bund, 20 Guangdong Lu, near Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu. Tel: 6329 3751

The sumptuous Glamour Bar, with stunning views, hosts a number of events, including Shanghai’s International Literary Festival.

Bar Rouge 7/F, Bund 18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Nanjing Dong Lu. Tel: 6339 1199 So hip it hurts: Bar Rouge is the epitome of high end, Shanghai nightlife, with sleek interiors and superb cocktails. Step onto the terrace for a gorgeous view of the Shanghai skyline, and you’re on top of the world.

Cotton’s 132 Anting Lu, near Jianguo Xi Lu. Tel: 6433 7995 Laid back and popular, this cosy bar is tucked away in a 1930s villa in the French Concession, and includes sofas and fireplaces – perfect for the winter months. There is also a very attractive garden for long summer days and nights.

BEIJING | CONCIERGE

From left to right: Mingwei Du; Alice Zhang; Jim Zhou; Elvis Yu; Joycelyn Chen; Michael Shen: Denny Wen

ASK THE CONCIERGE We asked Hilton’s expert concierges in Beijing to give their insider tips on how best to enjoy this great capital city BEST RESTAURANTS As an international city, Beijing offers a wide range of cuisine from across the world. For famous Peking Duck, Quanjude (Qianmen branch), established in 1864, is renowned throughout China. Also worth a visit is Dong Lai Shun, one of the oldest Hui (Chinese Muslim) hotpot restuarants in Beijing, which offers superb mutton dishes. For international fare, try Vasco’s (at Penta, Hilton Beijing Wangfujing) for a tantalising fusion of Portuguese and Asian cuisine, or Capital M which boasts classy European food and the best view across

Tiananmen Square. Also, at Maison Boulud, New York chef Daniel Boulud brings French food to Beijing.

SAUNAS AND SALONS The Spa (6th floor of Hilton Beijing Wangfujing) combines a soothing atmosphere and excellent service.

Meanwhile, Eric Paris now has seven upscale beauty salons across Beijing that combine French style with Chinese notions of beauty.

ENTERTAINMENT Traditional Chinese performances can be experienced at theatres and teahouses such as the Lao She Teahouse, Beijing Concert Hall, Beijing Tianqiao Theater, Chang’an Grand Theater and Huguang Guild Hall. Many tourists enjoy the Beijing Night Show, a 90-minute vaudeville show. Sanlitun is great for bars and revelry, and Mix and Vics in the North Gongti area are two popular clubs. D-lounge is a great place to relax too.

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES The Palace Museum in the Forbidden City houses magnificent imperial collections of paintings, calligraphy, ceramics, and decorative objects from the Stone Age to the Qing Dynasty. Other places of note include the China Science and Technology Museum, National Art Museum of China, and Song Qingling’s Former Residence.

BEIJING’S HIDDEN GEMS A visit to Beihai Park is always rewarding. Located directly south of Houhai, on the northwest corner of the Forbidden City, this garden dates back to the days of Kublai Khan. It is best known for the striking White Pagoda Temple, a Beijing landmark. Booklovers should visit the Beijing Foreign Languages Bookstore in Wanfujing, Beijing’s largest foreign language bookstore (stocking everything from fiction to reference, including travel guides), or check out the nearby Wangfujing Bookstore.

SHANGHAI | CONCIERGE

Front: Mozhou Li; Zhigang Hel; back: Yufeng Pan; Yan Wang; Ya Sun

ASK THE CONCIERGE Here, Hilton’s Shanghai concierges provide their own unique, personal insights into China’s futuristic metropolis BEST RESTAURANTS It is always good to visit Mei Long Zhen (established in 1938) which keeps the old Shanghai spirit alive in a traditional dining room of mahogany, marble, and beautiful wooden artwork. The consistently excellent Xiao Nan Guo is also a renowned Chinese eatery here in Shanghai. For international fare, Casanova, set in a refurbished colonial building overlooking a garden, offers modern and traditional Italian cuisine. Meanwhile, the Greek Taverna offers authentic favourites served in a cosy dining room draped with the flag of Greece.

SAUNAS AND SALONS The superb 1116 Fitness & Spa (Tower 2, Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao) offers a variety of professionally administered spa services, while Dragonfly Retreat has locations all over the city, providing busy urbanites with much needed solace.

ENTERTAINMENT The Bund at night is a must: the stunning cityscape, bathed in coloured light, is rendered even more spectacular. Across the Huangpu River the Oriental Pearl Tower and Jinmao Tower are breathtaking sights. Meanwhile the Mural bar at 697 Yongjia Lu in the French Concession is a mainstay of Shanghai nightlife and plays music

from around the world (salsa, hip hop, reggae, and much more). For live sports on TV, hearty pub fare, and pool and darts, Big Bamboo (with three branches in Shanghai) is a reliable option. For a sophisticated New York lounge-style bar, Penthouse Bar On 39, on the 39th floor of the Hilton Shanghai, boasts stunning views of the city.

BEST WALKING AREAS A gentle stroll around the French Concession is always delightful, and the Yu Garden, at No. 132. Anren Street (in the center of the Old City), is one of the finest Chinese gardens. Also check out Riverside Avenue, a 2.5 kilometer stretch along the Huangpu River, which

offers breathtaking night views of Shanghai.

SHANGHAI’S HIDDEN GEMS Xiaoyang Shengjian is Shanghai’s premier purveyor of shengjian (pan-fried baozi, a local speciality).

These eateries are hard to miss, as they are adorned with bright yellow signage and are usually crowded. Either eat in (with soup), or take away a box. Also take in Wujiang Road, a meandering alleyway packed with shops selling snacks and small meals. Meanwhile, bookworms should check out the quiet elegance of the Shanghai Foreign Bookstore, or the Ji Feng Bookstore: both are ideal places to while away the hours with good books.

BEIJING | HOTELS

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HILTON IN BEIJING The business and shopping districts of Beijing boast two Hilton hotels, convenient for all the city’s major attractions. Hilton Beijing Capital Airport, at Terminal 3, is China’s first five-star airport hotel .

Hilton Beijing 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Sanhuan Road, Beijing, China 100027 Tel: 86-10 5865 5000

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Hilton Beijing Wangfujing 8 Wangfujing East Street, Dongcheng, Beijing, China 100006 Tel: 86-10 5812 8888 Hilton Beijing Capital Airport (opening soon) Term 3 Beijing Capital Intl Airport, Beijing, China 100621 Tel: 86-10 6458 8888 Visit hilton.com/china

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Swimming Pool at Hilton Beijing Wangfujing Lobby of the Beijing Capital Airport (opening soon) Hilton Beijing Exterior of Hilton Beijing Wangfujing

SHANGHAI | HOTELS

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Swimming pool at Hilton Shanghai Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao (opening soon) Executive Panorama Suite at the Hilton Shanghai Exterior of Hilton Shanghai

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HILTON IN SHANGHAI The Hilton Shanghai is located in the heart of the entertainment district, close to exclusive shops.

The Jing’an Temple, Jing’an Park, and metro are also all nearby.

The Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao, situated in rapidly developing Hongqiao in the Minhang district, is surrounded by plush shopping malls and upscale residences.

All images © 2009 Hilton Hotels

Hilton Shanghai No. 250 Hua Shan Rd, Shanghai, China 200040 Tel: 86-21 6248 0000 Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao (opening soon) No. 1116 Hong Song East Road Minhang, Shanghai, China 201103 Tel: 86-21 3323 6666 4

Visit hilton.com/china

HILTON HOTELS | LOCATION MAP

South Korea China Japan

India

Vietnam

Phillipines

Guam

Sri Lanka Thailand Malaysia

French Polynesia

Indonesia

HILTON IN ASIA PACIFIC The most recognized name in the industry, Hilton Hotels stands as the stylish, forward thinking global leader of hospitality.

Operating in more countries than any other full-service hotel brand, Hilton Hotels has 530 hotels and resorts in 76 countries, across six continents, including 47 properties in Asia Pacific. In China, two exciting Hilton hotels will open by the end of 2010 – Hilton Beijing Capital Airport, and Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao.

Fiji Australia

New Zealand

HILTON HOTELS | LOCATION MAP

South Korea China Japan

India

Vietnam

Phillipines

Guam

Sri Lanka Thailand Malaysia

French Polynesia

Indonesia

HILTON IN ASIA PACIFIC The most recognized name in the industry, Hilton Hotels stands as the stylish, forward thinking global leader of hospitality.

Operating in more countries than any other full-service hotel brand, Hilton Hotels has 530 hotels and resorts in 76 countries, across six continents, including 47 properties in Asia Pacific. In China, two exciting Hilton hotels will open by the end of 2010 – Hilton Beijing Capital Airport, and Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao.

Fiji Australia

New Zealand

HILTON IN CHINA Hilton Beijing Hilton Beijing Capital Airport* Hilton Beijing Wangfujing

Hilton Hefei

Hilton Chongqing Hilton Chongqing Nanshan Resort & Spa*

Hilton Shanghai Hilton Shanghai Hongqiao*

In Shaanxi, the Terracotta Army has stood for 2,200 years.

In Beijing, Ming dynasty streets lead to the Forbidden City, and in Tibet stands the beautiful Jokhang Temple. China’s largest natural forest grows in Inner Mongolia, while Hong Kong pulsates with electric energy. Across this sweeping tapestry of colour and history, Hilton is with you on your adventure, dedicated to the service and style that are its hallmarks. hilton.com/asiapacific

Hilton Sanya Resort & Spa *Opening 2010

OTHER HILTON HOTELS IN THE ASIA PACIFIC REGION AUSTRALASIA Australia Hilton Adelaide Hilton Brisbane Hilton Cairns Hilton Melbourne Airport Hilton Melbourne on the Park Hilton Melbourne South Wharf Parmelia Hilton Perth Hilton Sydney Fiji Fiji Beach Resort & Spa Managed by Hilton French Polynesia Hilton Bora Bora Nui Resort & Spa Hilton Moorea Lagoon Resort & Spa New Zealand Hilton Auckland Hilton Lake Taupo

JAPAN, KOREA & MICRONESIA Japan Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawk Hilton Nagoya Hilton Niseko Village Hilton Odawara Resort & Spa Hilton Osaka Hilton Tokyo Hilton Tokyo Bay Hilton Tokyo Narita Airport Korea Grand Hilton Seoul Hilton Gyeong-ju Hilton Namhae Golf & Spa Resort Millennium Hilton Seoul Micronesia Hilton Guam Resort & Spa

SOUTH ASIA

SOUTHEAST ASIA

India Hilton Chennai/ Guindy* Hilton New Delhi/Janakpuri

Indonesia Hilton Bandung

Maldives Hilton Maldives/ Iru Fushi Resort & Spa Sri Lanka Hilton Colombo Hilton Colombo Residence

Malaysia Batang Ai Longhouse Resort, Managed by Hilton Hilton Kuala Lumpur Hilton Kuching Hilton Pataling Jaya Philippines Hilton Cebu Resort & Spa Singapore Hilton Singapore Thailand Millennium Hilton Bangkok Hilton Pattaya* Hilton Phuket Arcadia Resort & Spa Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa Vietnam Hilton Hanoi Opera

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