Phuket - Digital Destination Guide

SOUTHEAST ASIA / JULY 2015

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Discover 8 amazing locations in Phuket and share

#MyPhuketHolidays Centara Hotels & Resorts offers 8 distinct properties in the paradise of Phuket, each one designed to cater a different kind of travel lifestyles - including yours.

Seeking an authentic Thai-style villa? We’ve got one on Karon beach. Bringing the kids? We have three beachside locations featuring spacious family accommodation. Looking for endless leisure attractions, shopping and amazing nightlife? Our Patong beach hotel offers supreme location in the centre city. Or maybe you want everything, including a water park at either of our two 5-star Grand Resorts. We’ve even got self-catering beach apartments for those who prefer to travel more independently. No one understands the diversity of Phuket like Centara and no one brings it to you like we can.

At Centara, free Wi-Fi is available and up to two children stay and play absolutely free.

BOOK DIRECT FOR OUR BEST RATE GUARANTEED www.centarahotelsresorts.com • T: 66 (0) 2101 1234 #1

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E: reservations@chr.co.th

Editor’s Note

Contact me

@CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com

F R O M T O P : N A P AT R A V E E W AT; M O R G A N O M M E R

Christopher Kucway

YOU’VE LIKELY BEEN TO PHUKET, but the real question these days is have you been lately? As the Thai island’s popularity continues to grow, the established lures of cutting-edge resorts, restaurants with delicious menus and beachfronts that define tropical Asia all face more competition. So, they do the only thing they can do: innovate. Where a decade ago, a design-centric resort on Phuket was in a league of its own, today there are several to choose from. If it’s authentic Thai cuisine—in other words, where locals go to eat—you’re after, then you are spoilt for choice in today’s Phuket. Need little more than to chill? There are still quiet beaches to enjoy around the popular island, an array of shaded poolside beds begging for occupants, and innumerable spas where tranquility is the only aim.

Yet, Phuket is a destination that offers it all, so why not start with an adrenaline boost in a two-man gyrocopter? Most likely, you’ve never seen the island in this light or from this height, and writer Paul Ehrlich is your guide in “Flights of Fancy.”

This being Thailand, a good meal or three is never far off. In “Phuket on a Plate,” there’s a small cross-section of what’s on the island’s menu, which these days is just about any cuisine you can imagine. From families to fitness junkies, traditional Thai-food lovers to romantic diners, it’s all here.

As mentioned, this is an island that is continually improving, so “Our Definitive

Guide to Phuket” proves both timely and indispensable. Aside from a breakdown of the best beaches, it takes you to Phuket Town, where dining and shopping have experienced a rebirth, and also offers the lowdown on what three locals love about their home. Reason enough to plan your next visit, along with this handy e-guide.

Beet salad gets a new spin at Thanyapura.

The T+L Code While on assignment, Travel+Leisure editors and contributors travel incognito whenever possible. They also generally do not accept free travel or take press trips; we will clearly identify any instances in which we’ve made an exception to this policy.

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Deals

T+L RE A D E R S PECI A LS

THIS MONTH’S BEST DEALS From a personal barbecue party to a gourmet seafood dinner, these offers turn a Phuket trip into the perfect beachside blast.

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South of Phuket, The Racha.

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ROMANCE The Deal Time for Love by Pullman Phuket Arcadia Naithon Beach (pullmanphuketarcadia. com), perched atop a headland with direct access to the beach and a contemporary, urban feel.

Stay Three nights in a Deluxe room. The Highlights Daily inroom breakfast for two; a bottle of champagne; and late checkout. Cost From Bt17,190 (Bt5,730 per night), double, ongoing. Savings 40 percent.

BEACH The Deal Pool Villa Free Night from The Racha (theracha.com), an eco-friendly oasis on quiet Koh Racha Yai south of Phuket.

Stay Three nights in a Grand

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Deluxe Pool room. The Highlights A complimentary third night for every two nights booked, with breakfast. Cost From Bt29,200 (Bt14,600 per night), double, through October 31. Savings 33 percent.

DINING The Deal Escape to Phuket from Regent Phuket Cape Panwa (regenthotels.com), home to seaview rooms with private balconies, on Phuket’s southeastern tip. Stay Three nights in a Sea View Cape suite.

The Highlights A Seafood Gastronomic set dinner for two; a 60-minute Thai massage for two; and a complimentary room upgrade when available. Cost

Bt22,900 (Bt7,633 per night), double, through July 31.

Savings 55 percent.

FAMILY The Deal 2015 Summer Family Promotion from Laguna Phuket (lagunaphuket.com), Asia’s first destination resort featuring several upscale properties.

Stay A night in one of the hotels’ standard rooms. The Highlights Free dining and drinks from kids’ menus; a nineor 18-hole round of kids’ golf per paying adult; an extra bed per room; and complimentary Laguna Tours speedboat excursions for children. Cost From Bt4,000, double, through October 31.

Savings 60 percent. +

COURTESY OF THE R ACHA

CULTURE The Deal Destination Trisara package from Trisara (trisara. com), the perfect venue for a sunset sip. Stay Three nights in a two- to six-bedroom Trisara Residential villa. The Highlight A private poolside barbecue dinner prepared in-villa by a personal chef; a personal shopping assistant who takes you to the best boutiques for authentic Thai crafts and helps you bargain; and a full-day private cruise to Krabi and Phi Phi Islands on a sport cruiser yacht or flybridge yacht. Cost From US$878 (US$293 per night) per person, for eightpeople sharing, through October 31. Savings 30 percent.

Radar

Spaceship or luxury villa?

Iniala will keep you guessing.

hotels

PRET-A-PHUKET Simon Ostheimer checks out the island’s newest design-centric hotels.

Three new resorts are giving the island’s shoreline a run for its money when it comes to jaw-dropping beauty.

Travelers looking for their own private patch of Phuket will appreciate the intimacy afforded by these stylish retreats. Here we get the backstory and inspiration behind the bold and spectacular designs.

Iniala Beach House

Lobster traps become lights at Point Yamu.

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Looking for a boutique stay? You’d be hard pressed to find a more superlative example than this 10-room property crafted by 10 different designers to create 10 very different bedrooms and living spaces. Located just north of Phuket, on sunny stretch Natai beach in Phang Nga, Iniala brings together design, art and gastronomy. According to the founder and owner, Mark Weingard, the vision was to build something completely unique, to “reflect some of the best design in the world, from some of the most inspirational architects and craftsman of our age.” He raves about how the different contemporary designs from all over the globe—including Spain,

Ireland, Russia, Brazil, the U.K. and the U.S. (Weingard is especially pleased with the work of Irish wood craftsman Joseph Walsh, and the Brazilian Campana Brothers)—work together in harmony. Speaking of mellifluous blending, Aziamendi, the signature restaurant from Basque-born, threeMichelin star chef Eneko Atxa, mixes traditional Spanish techniques with Thai ingredients. In another Thai touch of hospitality, every villa comes with a built-in spa room and therapist.

Says Weingard, “It is a truly bespoke holiday experience.” 40/14 Moo 6, Baan Natai, Khok Kloi, Takua Thung, Phang Nga; iniala.com; deluxe suites from Bt26,758 a night, three-night minimum.

Point Yamu by COMO

Perched high on a peninsula in the northeast corner of Phuket with 360-degree panoramic views of Cape Yamu bay and the unesco World Heritage Site of Phang Nga Bay, the Point Yamu by COMO features a COMO Shambhala Retreat spa, as well as the Italian restaurant La Sirena and its Thai counterpart, Nahmyaa. The P HOTOG R A P H ED BY BREN T T. M A DISON

interiors are the work of renowned Italian designer, Paola Navone, who brings contemporary aesthetic to the distinctive elements of Thai culture, heritage and design, while simultaneously reflecting the immediate rustic locale, still home to traditional villages. Ascribing the resort “a different, fresh aesthetic,” James Low, general manager of Point Yamu, explains that “throughout the whole design project, Paola’s approach has been very thoughtful and sensitive to the destination, while retaining the signature style she is known for.”

Taking inspiration from the dramatic setting among the bay’s famed limestone karsts, Navone has peppered many Thai aspects throughout the property, using shades of orange taken from a monk’s robes and repurposing elements of lobster traps to fashion light fixtures in the lobby. 225 Moo 7, Paklok, Thalang; comohotels.com/ pointyamu; doubles from Bt10,000.

A curved wooden bed at Iniala, inspired by seashells.

Private dining, Point Yamu.

The Naka Phuket

Want to prop up your pillow in the clouds? Cantilevered out over the hillside, every room in The Naka Phuket has a “matchbox-style structure [that] offers our guests the ultimate experience of sleeping in the air,” says general manager Sawai Sombat. The entire resort revolves around a philosophy of equilibrium, where two natural settings, beach and hill, are in complete balance with one another. The property was designed inside and out by award-winning Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag, resulting in modern and stylish spaces with character: the open-air lobby and restaurant make use of the natural ventilation of the mountainous location. Aside from the 94 pool villas, there are four public buildings that house the lobby, restaurants, wedding chapel and spa. “They share one crucial character in their architecture,” Sawai says, “that is to bring exclusivity and privacy to guests and have the resort be the destination itself.” That said, if you do need a taste of nightlife, Patong is just 10 minutes drive on the other side of the bay. 1/18, 1/20 Moo 6, Kamala, Kathu; 66-76/337-999; thenakaphuket. com; villas from Bt9,250. +

“Matchboxes” at The Naka Phuket.

Blending with the scenery at The Naka Phuket.

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FLIGHTS OF FANCY Sometimes great adventures come in small packages. Paul Ehrlich boards a pint-sized gyroplane to experience the newest way to see Phuket.

I am 300 meters in the air in a gleaming, canary yellow, outsize toy plane. Below, the scenic scope of Thailand’s largest island, Phuket, is spread out in spectacular views of stately villas, luxury resorts, sun-glinting swimming pools and green hillsides. “Even the party town of Patong looks good from this height,” quips the pilot. We now cruise at a slow speed along a soft-sanded beach low enough to look right into sunbathing faces, and then take a graceful turn out over the aquamarine Andaman Sea. The view is arresting, spectacular.

By The Air, the country’s sole distributor of the German-import AutoGyro Cavalon, provides 30-minute trial flights over Phuket and 60-minute flights to the nearby islands, including Khao Phing Kan, better known as James Bond Island, where it just so happens that 007 flies an autogyro nicknamed Little Nellie in the movie You Only Live Twice. The diminutive craft can fly up to five hours—or

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650 kilometers—on a full tank of gas, so it also can be booked for longer aerial adventures, such as to Koh Samui or any nearby island with an airport, but since you can’t bring any luggage, it is better suited to sightseeing tours than practical transport.

Also called a gyroplane or gyrocopter, the two-seats-side-by-side, high-tech Cavalon, winner of the 2012 Red Dot Design Award and 2014 German Design Award, is a hybrid helicopter and fixed-wing aircraft, using an unpowered rotor to develop lift and an engine-powered propeller to provide thrust.

The Rotax engine is considered more environmentally friendly than some other types of engines and can reach maximum speeds of 160 kilometers per hour.

The sensation? It’s like riding on waves of wind, or astride a big, sexy motorcycle on a road of air. While the Cavalon, the craft I flew in, has no doors, the tandem MTOsport,

another model in their fleet, also has no roof, just a windshield in front for the ultimate one-with-the-sky experience.

The adrenaline-fueled, extreme-sport rush is sky high, so for those who find the flight addictive, By The Air has an aviation school for full gyro pilot licenses and a mini starter course that can be continued. Who says only Bond gets all the great gadgets?

T+L TIP Everything is photogenic, so go fully charged with extra camera batteries and memory-card space. Or even better, ask By the Air to add a GoPro Hero camera to video your flight, at no additional cost, freeing you for heavenly views. + By the Air; 66-93/592-7558; facebook.com/ bytheair; 30-minute flights Bt9,000, 60-minute flights Bt14,000; gyro pilot aviation starter courses from Bt28,000.

P HOTOG R A P H ED BY JOH N H .

PHUKET

BY COMO

means experiencing Thailand’s favourite island from a new perspective Point Yamu by COMO on Phuket’s east coast is among Asia’s hottest resort openings. Italian designer Paola Navone has injected bolts of turquoise and purple into the all-white interiors, creating a spectacular world-class retreat for the world’s most discerning travellers. Views over Phang Nga Bay will punch the air from your lungs, while the refined spirit of the resort – reflected in both La Sirena and Nahmyaa restaurants – make Point Yamu into a unique excuse to disappear for a few days with family and friends. Add in the villas with large private pools, one of COMO Shambhala’s award-winning wellness retreats, daily yoga, a dive centre and the opportunity to dart about Phang Nga Bay’s hidden coves and beaches, and you’ve found your own private heaven where you can count on COMO’s passionate, pin-sharp service.

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PHUKET ON A PLATE This Thai island is elevating resort cuisine, with kitchens producing culinary feats as diverse as the travelers that frequent its sandy shores. By Diana Hubbell for the traditionalist Ruen Thai, Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket

The sprawling Laguna complex was one of the first places to put Phuket on the global tourist map, and it’s still going strong today. At the venerable Dusit Thani, the service is still friendly, and the signature restaurant, Ruen Thai, still offers a solid selection of local favorites. The dishes, while familiar, are executed with care. A yam som-o with juicy pomelo and shrimp proves the kitchen isn’t afraid of a few chilies, and chunks of fresh seafood float in creamy hor mok soufflés. For more special-occasion-worthy fare, the chef will ignite a whole Phuket lobster tableside. Once the flames subside, guests can pry the tender meat from the shell and slather it with curry-spiked coconut sauce. Taken in combination with the restaurant’s lakeside setting, it’s easy to understand how this comfort cuisine has stood the test of time. 390 Moo 1, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Talang; 66-76/362-999; dusit.com; dinner for two Bt2,700. for the romantic The Grill, Regent Phuket Cape Panwa

The finishing touch on Phuket lobster at Ruen Thai.

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Like the rest of the Regent Phuket, The Grill is all about understated elegance, with soft lighting and subtle gold accents. Looks alone could sell this place, but what really sets it apart is the impeccably sourced food. Ask which farm your Wagyu steak came from, and there’s a ready answer. Just about everything that can be made from scratch is, from the smoked salmon and the bacon, to ice cream, yogurt, bread and, in the future, mozzarella.

Even the butter is house-churned, herb-flecked, truffle-infused and dusted with two varieties of volcanic P HOTOG R A P H ED BY BREN T T. M A DISON

Beet salad gets a new spin at Thanyapura.

Chef Matteo plates an appetizer at Mare.

salt. All these fastidious details happen behind the scenes though, and the resulting dishes feel surprisingly unfussy. More importantly, while chef Justin Baziuk is comfortable with occasional molecular-gastro flourishes, he isn’t afraid to let the ingredients shine through simple preparations. A blood-rare rack of New Zealand lamb, seasoned only with a bracing mustard rub and served with crisp, buttery baby potatoes is good enough to stop a conversation cold.

84 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Vichit, Muang; 66-76/200-800; regenthotels.com/ phuket; dinner for two Bt5,000. for the design fanatic Black Ginger, Indigo Pearl

Much has already been said about the Indigo Pearl’s brooding, steampunk aesthetic and quirky Bill Bensley design. It should come as no surprise then that the self-consciously stylish hotel’s signature restaurant, The Black Ginger, resides in the middle of an artificial lake, complete with torches, a fog machine and a raft to ferry guests across. Once inside the darkly intimate interior, the mood is more subdued, though no less theatrical. Waitresses decked out in slinky black silks offer

The Black Ginger by torch light.

A palate-cleansing sorbet at The Grill.

up Thai staples augmented by superlative ingredients like fine de Claire oysters and imported U.S. rib eye. A mammoth prawn rises from the tom yum goong and the roll-your-own springrolls come with a rich crab-andpork filling. For dessert, try the black sticky rice pudding with jackfruit.

Nai Yang Beach and National Park; 6676/327-3389; indigo-pearl.com; dinner for two Bt4,000. for the fitness junkie DiVine, Thanyapura Phuket

While most resorts aim to provide a leisurely holiday, Thanyapura caters to a much more active crowd. Until the addition of a hotel in 2012, this sprawling complex in the midst of Phuket’s jungle was primarily for serious athletes. The emphasis on wellness goes from the fitness facilities all the way to DiVine, the property’s low-key eatery, which serves a variety of healthful foods like quinoa-crusted chicken. The global cuisine here is far tastier than your standard spa fare. An inventive salad of beet “ravioli” consists of ruby-red slices wrapped around tangy feta and sprinkled with pistachios. After a well-balanced meal, guests can

indulge in a whey-protein-spiked vitamin-rich smoothie, or a more hedonistic cocktail. 120/1 Moo 7, Thepkasattri Rd., Thepkasattri; 6676/336-000; thanyapura.com; dinner for two Bt2,000. for the family Mare, Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket

A coral-pink palace set directly on a white stretch of sand, the Centara Grand Beach Resort Phuket is all beach breeze and charm. The easygoing ambience extends to Mare, the resort’s airy Italian restaurant.

Kids can watch the cooks in action in the open kitchen while parents sip something from the reasonably priced wine list. Hailing from Genoa, chef Matteo Verini whips up a menu of dependable crowd-pleasers using mostly imported ingredients. All the requisite items are here, from smoky carbonara to seafood pasta. You’ll find no surprises, but with little ones in tow, that can be a relief. Take a bite of the excellent tiramisu, sip an espresso and watch the kids play in the surf. 683 Patak Rd., Karon Beach, Muang; 66-76/ 201-234; centarahotelsandresorts.com; dinner for two Bt3,900. + T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

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PHUKET

BY THE DOZEN Thailand’s popular getaway offers resorts of every description and for every budget. Simon Ostheimer heads off in search of 12 top addresses and comes up smiling.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY BRENT T. MADISON

Getting away from it all at The Racha.

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IDER THAT ONCE YOU CONS ith less than Phuket, an island w ents, attracts half a million resid each year, it’s millions of tourists a tourism easy to see why it’s ailand. That poster child for Th ever y type of also means there’s gine under the resort you can ima oosing one for tropical sun, so ch ’t easy. Here, n is k a re b t ex n r u yo ifferent locales, we break down 12 d t most needs. a list that should fi

Clockwise from above: The main pool at Andara; a towel at the ready at Trisara; The Naka Island; arriving at The Naka; Trisara and a leisurely lunch; a large guest room at the resort; gourmet cuisine is never far away at Phuket’s resorts.

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THE NAKA ISLAND The all-villa Naka Island is one of Phuket’s most sought-after sanctuaries, right in line with its previous incarnation as an ultra-vegan fitness retreat. These days, the menu includes meat and you’re welcome to not work out—but it’s still a perfect destination if you’re looking for a little privacy, are uninterested in Patong’s nightlife and are content to spend your vacation in quiet reflection. The villas embrace the outdoors—we’re fans of the standalone bathrooms, connected to the bedrooms by latticed walkways—and are surrounded by lush gardens. In the evening, take a stroll through the resort to Z Bar, and toast the views of Phuket and Phang Nga Bay. 32 Moo 5, Paklok, Naka Yai Island; 66-76/371400; nakaislandphuket.com; villas from Bt9,250.

ANDARA RESORT & VILLAS The vision of Hong Kong businessman Allan Zeman, who built the resort after completing his own holiday home Chandara on the next headland, Andara cascades down the hillside above Kamala beach on Phuket’s west coast. A mix of residential suites and pool villas, all accommodation comes decked out with full kitchens, Bose sound systems and silk linens designed by Jim Thompson. Want to follow in Zeman’s footsteps? Buy your own villa, and the resort can rent it out when you’re not there. The private Kamala Beach Club and Lounge, with its full-size beds in the sand, provides a sunny home away from home. 15 Moo 6, Kamala Beach, Kathu; 6676/338-777; andaraphuket.com; villas from Bt64,050 per night, three-night minimum.

REGENT PHUKET CAPE PANWA The Regent Phuket is all about subtle splendor, sitting cliffside overlooking its own private beach at the end of the quiet Cape Panwa. All rooms are fitted with iPads; the villas have their own plunge pools, butlers and access to the Regent Club for complimentary breakfast and cocktails. The 60-meter infinity pool is inviting, though just as attractive is the Regent Spa—one of the few places in Phuket where you can treat yourself to an Intraceutical Infusion facial, a treatment that uses pressurized-oxygen to enhance skin hydration and combats the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 84 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Vichit, Muang; 66-76/200-800; regenthotels.com/en/phuket; villas from B4,960 per night, two-night minimum.

TRISARA Meaning “Third Garden of Heaven” in Sanskrit, Trisara sets expectations high. You won’t be disappointed: all rooms and villas come with infinity pools overlooking a private beach.

Charter one of the luxury yachts if you want to cruise the high seas, though once you check in, you might never want to leave the resort. The chilled-out vibe is taken up a karmic notch by the option of holistic healing sessions in a private seafront sala (or in the comfort of your own villa), which are dedicated to helping you find inner peace. As if you needed any assistance. 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/310-100; trisara.com; doubles from Bt18,412.

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W E STIN SIR AY BAY R E SORT & SPA Parents and kids alike will be won over by this Westin, out alone on eastern Siray Island, because of its family focus.

There are three main pools and various offshore water activities to sign up for, and children of Starwood Preferred Guests can eat all day for a flat daily rate. The Kids Club has a menu for little ones, and provides an activity packet as well as staff on hand to teach them how to print batik, make wind chimes and even speak a little Thai.

How do you say, “Now, that’s a play-cation”? 21/4 Moo 1, Siray Island, Rasada, Muang; 66-76/335-600; westin.com/ siraybayresort; doubles from Bt3,402.

ANGSANA LAGUNA PHUKET At this huge new west coast spot, bigger really is better.

We’re talking about a 323-meter resort-wide lagoon pool; the expansive kids’ club featuring a jungle gym, spa and resident baby elephant. The Kids Café serves up burgers, hot dogs and fries, though parents will probably prefer the fare at the hotel’s signature Thai and Italian restaurants, followed by a few sundowners at Xana Beach Club, for which international DJs are regularly flown in to spin for the island’s party crowd. 10 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/324-101; angsana.com/en/ phuket; doubles from Bt3,625.

PULLMAN PHUKET ARCADIA NAITHON BEACH Despite all the development, there are still patches of lush, unspoiled scenery left on Phuket. That’s what makes the pristine headland on which the Pullman sits so special. The 277-room property with a family focus is beautifully integrated into its verdant surroundings. For the family that likes to play separately, there are adult- and kid-only pools, Smart TVs in every room preloaded with video games and, in fact, an entire gaming room. Combined with a babysitting service and four children’s clubs—one for each age group— moms and dads will be able to make the most of the resort’s upscale Italian restaurant or the live music at the Access lounge. 22 2 Moo 4, Saku, Thalang; 66-76/303-299; pullmanhotels.com; doubles from Bt4,321.

THE VIJITT RESORT This family-run resort is unusual on an island dominated by global chains, and as recently as 2006 consisted of only thatch-and-bamboo bungalows. Eschewing the international management route, the Thai owners decided by the family was the best approach for the family. Witness: the colorful Kid’s Club with its own pool, ice cream stand and all-day organized activities. A simple yet luxurious resort with traditional Thai design touches, it has an enviable perch right on the southern coast of Phuket. The Vijitt’s kitchens use organic produce where possible, including herbs and fruit from the resort’s own gardens and orchards, while the Sunday brunch is popular with islanders. Hard to believe the backpackers had the place all to themselves for so long. 16 Moo 2, Viset Rd., Rawai, Muang; 66-76/363-600; vijittresort.com; villas from Bt9,000.

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Clockwise from top left: Some tropical color at the Dusit Thani; a pool villa at the Pullman; Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa; Phuket is a perfect playground for kids; a deluxe pool villa at the Vijitt Resort; the welcome area at the Westin. Middle: Kicking back on the beach.

Clockwise from above: The Racha’s natural side; at Twinpalms; a shrimp dish at The Surin; the tropical grounds at Twinpalms; Paresa specializes in fresh cuisine; arriving at Twinpalms; Paresa’s wine cellar. Middle: At Paresa.

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PARESA RESORT There’s no place like Paresa in the springtime… or summer or autumn or winter, for that matter. With a distinctly southern Thai design—picture pavilion-style ceilings and Chinese-influenced furnishings—the resort is a parry to the omnipresent northern Lanna style. Rooms are open and spacious, all villas and suites have ocean views and the signature restaurant, Talung Thai, is shaded under the canopy of several large banyan trees, preserved during construction. Nearby is the resort’s beach club in Kamala, though for us the clincher is an “Infinity Experience” meal, where diners sit on floating decks in the fiber-optic-lit pool.

49 Moo 6, Layi-Nakalay Rd., Kamala; 66-76/302-000; paresaresorts.com; villas from Bt18,390.

THE SURIN PHUKET A major renovation by Paris-based architect Ed Tuttle rechristened the much-loved, if well-worn property as The Surin, a geometric gem nestled in the small but idyllic Pansea beach. Whether you choose a cottage or suite, you’ll enjoy private sun decks, teak floors and organic toiletries. If you stay during October through May, you can dine alfresco at The Beach and watch the sun go down while enjoying a meal of fresh seafood. Some things, at least, never change.

118 Moo 3, Pansea Beach, Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/621580; thesurinphuket.com; doubles from Bt6,032.

TWINPALMS PHUKET RESORT The coolest property on this list, Twinpalms attracts international glitterati, and the lodgings alone help explain why: the smallest room is 51 square meters and the Presidential Penthouse is nearly 10 times bigger. Black Card membership brings benefits including unlimited stays and spa, and a 20-person, three-day yacht cruise—all for a cool million baht a year. Feeling less flush? You can still revel in the resort’s minimalist style, rich local artwork, cuttingedge audiovisual gadgetry and 3,000-bottle wine cellar.

And then there’s Catch Beach Club, where Twinpalmsguest privileges include all-day eating and imbibing, discounts on sun beds, and the chance to mingle with the planet’s rich and famous. 106/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/316-500; twinpalms-phuket. com; doubles from Bt4,550.

THE RACHA For true tropical remoteness, island hop down to The Racha, due south of Phuket. You’ll gain immediate access to the stunning sea life—which this eco-chic resort is helping to protect via a coral-preserving floating pontoon jetty and a ban on motorized water sports. Other admirable policies include planting two trees for every one removed for building and an island-wide organic waste recycling program. Villas—where you can customize scents with jasmine, lemongrass or lavender—are understated but elegant, though The Lighthouse, a five-story replica, offers 360-degree views of the Andaman. Racha Yai Island, Rawai, Muang; 66-76/355-455; theracha.com; villas from Bt9,270. + T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M

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Phuket Our Definitive Guide to

Serenity-minded hoteliers and urbane entrepreneurs are helping Thailand’s tropical playground usher in a cultural renaissance.

Resident Simon N. Ostheimer takes the pulse of the island and its neighbors. Photographed by Pornsak Na Nakorn

Kata Beach, one of the best surf spots in Thailand.

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From left: The pool at Hyatt Regency Phuket Resort; it’s all mod at Point Yamu by COMO.

Lay of the Land Old Town This historical district’s century-old Chinese shophouses and tin-baron mansions house a variety of cafés, creative restaurants, cool bars and hip hotels.

Patong Phuket’s party central needs little introduction, but beyond the dubious delights of Bangla Road, you’ll discover an emerging culinary scene and good tourist shopping.

Chalong This waterfront is the main launching point for boats to the offshore islands. Grab a drink at one of the laidback bars that line the roads by the pier.

Kathu Earmarked as the island’s new CBD, this area is booming with huge developments that will add more malls and attractions.

Surin Of the half-dozen beach towns that line the sun-soaked west coast, Surin is the chicest, with boutique resorts, beach clubs and some of the island’s top-rated eateries.

Getting Around Phuket’s many taxis and tuk-tuks are exorbitantly priced. Instead, rent a car or motorbike.

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Stay From tropical to trendy, here are seven of the island’s hottest retreats.

THE NAKA PHUKET

The 94 pool villas in this striking west coast resort sit on a hill overlooking a private beach. Thai architect Duangrit Bunnag embraced the topography by designing cantilevered buildings that seem to hang in the air. 1/18, 1/20 Moo 6, Kamala, Kathu; 66-76/337-999; thenakaphuket.com; Bt9,250.

HYATT REGENCY PHUKET RESORT

Located at the start of “Millionaire’s Mile,” home to some of the island’s most expensive resorts and residences, the Hyatt offers luxurious lodgings, including 12 expansive Regency suites. 16/12 Moo 6, Kamala, Kathu;

66-76/231-234; phuket. regency.hyatt.com; Bt3,730.

INIALA

This one-of-a-kind property is the brainchild of philanthropist Mark Weingard. Each of the 10 suites are the creation of different designers from across the globe. All guests have a driver, butler, chef and masseuse at their beck and call.

40/14 Moo 6, Baan Natai, Phang Nga; 66-76/451-456; iniala. com; Bt26,758.

POINT YAMU

BY COMO

The first top-flight resort set up in the island’s rural northeast is sleek and modern with star Italian designer Paola Navone’s interiors partly inspired by the waters of

the Andaman Sea. 225 Moo 7, Paklok, Thalang; 66-76/360-100; comohotels.com/ pointyamu; Bt10,000.

LE CORAL HIDEAWAY BEYOND PHUKET

Picturesque Natai Beach is rapidly becoming the go-to destination for those in the know. This small, smart resort is the latest addition to the area’s upmarket offerings, featuring well-appointed rooms with beach-house touches like distressed wood furnishings. 9/9 Moo 8, Na Toey, Thai Muang; 66-76/679-888; coralhideaway.com; Bt6,075.

ANANTARA PHUKET LAYAN RESORT & SPA

The soft beach, shallow tide pool and offshore rock formations set a scene so serene you’ll have no idea you’re a stone’s throw from the lively Laguna complex.

168 Moo 6, Layan Beach Soi 4, Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/317200; phuket-layan. anantara.com; Bt13,750.

U ZENMAYA PHUKET

This Old Town-inspired property is the newest rollout for the überpersonalized Thailandbased U Hotels & Resorts. 6/181 Moo 6, Kamala, Kathu; 66-76/ 336-888; uzenmaya phuket.com; Bt2,719.

Hotel prices represent starting rates for double occupancy.

ONE TO WATCH Kata Rocks At this stunning, long-awaited, cliff-top resort, the villas are all heavy on Andaman views and the wellness bent is downright fun—think: sleep-pod napping therapy and an in-house expert at Feldenkrais, a practice focusing on the symbiotic relationship between movement and thought. 186/22 Koktanode Rd., Karon, Muang; 66-76/370-777; katarocks.com; villas from Bt21,270.

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Shop

Three stylish stops for beach buys.

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Lemongrass House This Phuket success story founded by a former film executive in the U.S., Bobby Duchowny, sells 100-percent handmade, natural spa products and teas in his scent-filled shop—and to top hotels around the world. 10/2 Moo 1, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang; lemongrasshouse.com.

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Paul Ropp Another American, this designer displays his easy-breezy, wildly chromatic, handwoven, handembroidered cottons and silks at his eponymous shops across the island. Get decked out head-to-toe with his locally inspired clothes, shoes and accessories.

Flagship shop at Surin Gallery, Moo 3, Cherngtalay, Thalang; paulropp.com.

From top: Handmade spa products at the fragrant Lemongrass House; tropical fashion at Re Ká Ta.

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Re Ká Ta If you’re looking to make waves fashion-wise during your visit to the beach, visit the smart boutique inside this beach club on Kata Beach, where you can pick up Vilebrequin swimming trunks, Heidi Klein’s espadrilles and barely there swimwear by Princesse Tam Tam. 182-184 Koktanode Rd., Kata, Muang; rekataphuket.com.

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See Do L ARD YAI SUNDAY WALKING STREET

Chinpracha House.

Patong Boxing Stadium.

There’s more to do than tan on these sunny shores.

SURF HOUSE

This assembly of locally made handicrafts, traditional southern Thai snacks and cultural performances was launched in September last year. An excellent way to spend a Sunday evening, it also serves to highlight the historic charms of the revitalized Old Town.

Thalang Rd., Old Town; every Sunday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.

The island’s so-called low season (May through October) is the best time of year for surfers to visit, with a beach break at Kata rated the best in the country. But for days when the swell is flat there’s this artificial wave for non-stop bodysurfing. 4 Pakbang Alley, Karon, Muang; 66-81/9797737; surfhouse phuket.com; from Bt1,000.

SOI DOG FOUNDATION

PATONG BOXING STADIUM

Since it was founded in 2003 to tackle Phuket’s stray pup epidemic, this remarkable charity has sterilized more than 60,000 dogs and cats. Learn more about their worthy work and meet some friendly animals on a facility tour. 167/9 Moo 4, Soi Mai Khao 10, Mai Khao, Thalang; 66-81/788-4222; soidog.org.

Organized by famous former muay Thai champion Num Noi Singpatong, the Saturday Fight Nights feature the best combatants to come out of his Patong gym— including Frenchman Damien Alamos, the topranked foreigner in the sport. 2/59 Sainamyen Rd., Patong, Kathu; 66-76/ 345578; patongboxing stadium. com; from Bt1,300.

CHINPRACHA HOUSE

Phuket was once known for tin mines, a hugely lucrative, if destructive, industry that led to the emergence of the island’s mining barons, who built grand mansions in their own honor. One of the best preserved is this century-old Sino-colonial home in the Old Town. 98 Krabi Rd.; 6676/211-167; Bt200 entry, daily 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

THE KIDS CLUB

Sure, most top resorts boast children’s centers, but for a change of scene, this offsite romper room has a ball pit, playgrounds, painting, clowns, cartoons and superheroes—all the fun needed to wear out the wee ones. 2F Promenade Mall Patong, 70/1 Bangla Rd., Patong; 6676/341-310; thekidsclub phuket.com; Bt150 per hour for kids older than one.

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Expect Basque flavors with Asian ingredients at Aziamendi. From left: Southern style curry at Nahmyaa; Mirror Mirror blends clever décor and French comfort food.

Bottom: A tipple or two at Rendez-Vous.

Eat Where to dine in Phuket now.

AZIAMENDI This groundbreaking restaurant is headed by Michelin three-starred chef Eneko Atxa, who has combined his Basque heritage with Asian ingredients to come up with dishes such as suckling pig with pumpkin noodles and dashi. 40/14 Moo 6, Baan Natai, Phang Nga; 66-93/779-2312; aziamendi.com; set menus from Bt5,500.

MIRROR MIRROR Playing a big part in Old Town’s emergence as a dining destination, this Gallic-inflected spot has a woodpaneled, mirror-lined interior and a modernFrench, comfort-food menu—featuring, for example, whole rack of lamb—created by its

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Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef. 31 Dibuk Rd., Old Town, Muang; 66-76/ 355-914; mirrormirror phuket.com; Bt1,300.

NAHMYAA Though yet to garner the fame of its sister restaurant—Nahm, at the Metropolitan by COMO in Bangkok— this koi-tiled, new addition to Phuket’s dining scene deserves some recognition.

Under the expert eye of chefs Daniel Moran and Thirawut Na-udom, it serves up classy twists on southern Thai street food, such as an unbeatable steamed whole fish topped with catfish floss. 225 Moo 7, Paklok, Thalang; 6676/360-100; comohotels.com/ pointyamu; Bt2,900.

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NIKKI BEACH PHUKET The newest branch of this glam global beach club chain sashayed up to the northern end of unspoiled Layan Beach earlier this year. Join the well-dressed crowd sipping champagne and knocking back oysters as the day fades to dusk. The raucous Sunday brunch is mustbook-ahead. 62/11 Moo 6, Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/681161; nikkibeach.com/ phuket; Bt3,500.

GALLERY CAFE

BY PINKY Long a mainstay of expats in search of a sandwich, salad and smoothie, Pinky’s—as

locals know it—recently moved into swanky Old Town digs, where the food and drinks are as good as ever. 19 Yaowarat Rd., Old Town, Muang; 66-83/1037000; gallerycafephuket.com; Bt800.

360° BAR & GRILL Wine and dine your date atop The Pavilions, an adultsonly resort whose bar offers romantic views of the Andaman, creative tapas, and a range of “love potions” such as the Hex Appeal, an elixir of kaffir lime leaves and vodka. 31/1 Moo 6, Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/317600; thepavilions resorts.com; Bt1,900.

Restaurant prices represent approximate cost for dinner for two, unless otherwise noted.

Meet up for a glass of red at Rendez-Vous (facebook. com/phuketrendezvous), with generous owner Khun Ae, before strolling up the road to The House (thehousephuket.com) for a Japanese Hitachino Nest beer. Next: longtime favorite Sanaeha (facebook.com/ sanaehaphukettown) for a little live jazz, before a short walk to Wonderland (wonderlandphuket.com), where waiters in top hats serve cocktails made with Phuket’s own Chalong Bay Rum. If you’re still standing, head due north to rock out the evening in style at Timber Hut (66-76/211839). Whiskey mixers and a rollicking time—that’s why Aerosmith lead singer Steven Tyler partied here last year.

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Imbibe in Old Town

From left: The covesheltered Naiharn Beach; deep fried soft-shell crab; Mr. Zen, the owner of Wua Art Gallery.

Local Take

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: © J O H N H A R P E R / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; © A K E E R I S / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F M R . Z E N .

I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N

Three insiders share their go-to places on the island.

TIM CAMPBELL

ALICE NA

Co-owner of Stand Up Projects

TAKUATUNG

LUCCHINI

TV host of Phuket News TV

Co-owner of Chalong Bay Rum

Phuket has many stunning beaches.

My favorites are Naiharn, tucked in a cove with incredible surroundings, and Bangtao, where long and peaceful waves make it ideal for learning to surf at Skyla’s Surf & SUP Club (surf-sup.asia). I like to eat at Sunset (100 Cherngtalay Baadon Rd.), for delicious Thai served in a warm, simple setting. I’m also a huge fan of Flavor (facebook.com/ flavorphuket) in Phuket Town—its fresh ingredients are magically put together. For drinks, my favorite hangout is Ploenchit (facebook.com/ ploenchit.phuket), with its winning combo of retro kitsch and rustic vibe.

Island Hop

My favorite spot to eat in Phuket is Bang Mud (66-81/273-2367) floating restaurant, for its deep fried soft-shell crab and clams with lemongrass.

Adrift between the mainland and Coconut Island, it is a 10-minute boat ride from Laem Hin Pier to the oceantop eatery. If you’re dining, the longtail taxi is free; visit around 4 p.m. so you can enjoy the sunset ride back to Phuket. For bars, my top choice would be Sanaeha (facebook.com/ sanaehaphukettown). When I’m not working, I often visit Ao Yon Beach near my home down Cape Panwa. All I need is a beach mat, a book and good company: it’s my own slice of paradise.

MARINE

I love the 15-course Sunday brunch of fresh delicacies prepared by the chefs at Breeze (breezecapeyamu.com). I appreciate the caring service, the family atmosphere and the beautiful views of Phang Nga Bay. My favorite bar is Wonderland (wonderland phuket.com), where they serve amazing cocktails in a magical setting that conveys of the unexpected nature of Alice’s journey. During the day, I like to wander the streets of blooming Old Town, where there always are new places to discover, such as Mr. Zen’s Wua Art Gallery (wua-artgallery. com). This historic area is authentic, diverse and original.

While it may seem odd flying onto an island resort only to board a boat to yet another, the dozens of small isles dotted around Phuket are sure to beckon from the horizon. Just a 15-minute speedboat ride (or slightly longer by longtail) from Phuket, pay a visit to Koh Bon, where Brit Dawn Farrell (bonislandphuket.wordpress.com) serves up fresh seafood right on the beach, or to the mostly undeveloped Coral Island—also known as Koh Hae—which features pristine reefs for snorkeling and sandy beaches for sunning.

To avoid the crowds, skip Long Beach and head to Banana Beach instead. Mainly rural Koh Yao Yai, where the locals still harvest rubber and coconuts, is off the east coast. Due to the infrequent ferries, it’s worth staying overnight, perhaps somewhere such as the Koh Yao Yai Village resort (kohyaoyaivillage.com). To really get away from it all, check into the Tenta Nakara (tentanakara.com) on Koh Naka Yai, where you can glamp it up at a resort that encourages skinny-dipping! Nothing like getting back to nature.

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The Surin Phuket is an exclusive beach retreat for discerning travelers, families and couples seeking relaxation and indulgence in a serene beachfront setting. Hotel is located on the tranquil Pansea Beach on the west coast of Phuket Island, Thailand and a member of Design Hotels™.

The Surin Phuket | Pansea beach 118 Moo 3 Choengtalay Talang Phuket 83110 | T 076-316-400, 076-621-580-2 | F 076-621-590| | E hotel@thesurinphuket.com| W www.thesurinphuket.com|