August 2016 by Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia

SOUTHEAST ASIA

AUGUST 2016

WORLDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST AWARDS HOTELS / CITIES ISLANDS / AIRLINES CRUISES

SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 / PHILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 / CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000

La residence Hue Hotel and Spa - Vietnam

MGaLLEry By SofITEL IS a coLLEcTIoN of 82 Luxury BouTIquE HoTELS, EacH wITH cHarM, cHarISMa aNd a ProfouNdLy LocaL cHaracTEr. for Today’S dIScErNING TraVELLErS, MGaLLEry HoTELS offEr dISTINcTIVE PoSSIBILITIES, wHErE No Two ProPErTIES arE aLIkE aNd EacH STay IS fILLEd wITH dIScoVEry aNd INSPIraTIoN. Each MGallery by Sofitel hotel has a unique story to tell, offering authentic local experiences, along with a specially designed “Memorable Moment” so guests can take home exceptional and unforgettable memories of their stay. Hotels in this collection are inspired by one of three atmospheres: “Heritage” hotels, which are defined by their rich historical character; “Serenity” hotels, which are typically hidden retreats along a coastline or in the mountains, or even in an urban landscape; and “Signature” hotels, which belong to an inspired aesthetic universe, reflecting a heightened sense of style and design.

Nestled on the banks of the Perfume River, La Residence Hotel & Spa, a “Heritage” hotel in Hue, Vietnam, features an elegant Art Deco style with 122 guest rooms decorated in the details of the 1920s and 1950s. The enchanting boutique hotel, which was the French governor’s residence in the 1920s, enjoys an incredible location overlooking the Citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Guests can plunge into the hotel’s vast outdoor saltwater swimming pool, learn Vietnamese cooking in “A Taste of Hue” cooking classes, or explore the traditional heritage of Hue in an inspiring river journey. The award-winning spa includes seven luxurious treatment rooms and an herbal sauna and Jacuzzi.

Set within three refurbished historical homes, each more than a century old, 3 Nagas Luang Prabang is an exquisite hotel featuring 15 spacious rooms. The property exudes authenticity and charm, blending colonial French architecture with classic Lao design, and is surrounded by lush, wooded hills and mango trees at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers. Located on the central heritage street of Luang Prabang, guests can enjoy glimpses of traditional local culture, including Buddhist monks collecting their morning alms. An on-site cooking class is the hotel’s Memorable Moment, linking guests to the hotel’s roots as the royal ice cream factory; the experience is prefaced by a trip to the colourful morning market. The sophisticated and award-winning luxury retreat V Villas Hua Hin is the perfect exclusive boutique hotel for guests in search of romance, revival and recreation. With 23 exclusive private pool villas and round-the-clock butler services, the resort draws design inspiration from lavish Italian villazzos and the beautiful geometric patterns of Asia’s terraced rice paddies. Guests enjoy secluded privacy, including spacious en suite bathrooms stocked with world-class luxury amenities by Hermès. With its gorgeous beachfront location, V Villas is renowned as VIE Hotel Bangkok - Thailand

3 Nagas Luang Prabang - Laos

one of Thailand’s most glamourous wedding venues —a truly dream-like destination for celebrations and honeymoons. A contemporary five-star haven in the heart of Bangkok, VIE Hotel Bangkok is located just steps from the city’s most iconic shopping malls and high-end department stores in the trendy Siam district. The “Signature” hotel’s 154 duplexes, spacious rooms and suites feature bold artwork, exotic furniture, soft shades and audacious colours, creating a spellbinding atmosphere that is both stylish and comfortable. Dining options in the hotel are superb, with La Vie modern French eatery regularly hosting visiting chefs from Michelin-star restaurants overseas, and YTSB—Yellow Tail Sushi Bar—regarded as one of the best places in town for fresh, delicious sushi. Exciting developments are on the horizon for the boutique luxury MGallery by Sofitel brand, with upcoming openings scheduled for Myanmar, the Philippines and Thailand.

V Villas Hua Hin - Thailand

Passion for Culinary Excellence

Nine Chefs, Eight Countries, Seven Days, One Hotel 17th World Gourmet Festival 19 - 25 September 2016 IN ASSOCIATION WITH

August

ON THE COVER Sydney, one of the top cities in our World’s Best Awards. Photograph by Ahmed Wehbe.

features

SPECIAL World’s Best Awards The top hotels, cities, islands, cruise lines, airports and more, as voted by more than 200,000 T+L readers.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: I A N L L O Y D N E U B A U E R ; J A M E S M E R R E L L ; C H A N S R I T H AW E E P O R N / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; F R E D E R I C L A G R A N G E

The Great Wide Open The future has arrived in Mongolia. Pico Iyer finds a country that is moving ahead by embracing modernity and rediscovering its own history. Photographed by Frederic Lagrange

98 106 88 59

Return to Tahiti Despite its glittering growth, French Polynesia still holds transfixing myths, rustic wonders and youthful innocence with the power to inspire awe in even the most jaded of travelers. Story and photographs by Ian Lloyd Neubauer

106

Industrial Revolution Once central London’s seediest quarter, King’s Cross is now home to an ambitious urban renewal and has become an unlikely model for the city’s future. By Will Self. Photographed by James Merrell

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

In Every Issue T+L Digital 14 Contributors 16 Editor’s Note 18 The Conversation 20 Deals 55 Wish You Were Here 118

departments

Here & Now art gallery debuts on the military-controlled border between North and South Korea.

27 The Road to Rangoon A cool

new bistro in Burma blends the best of the region, with a Vietnamese bent.

28 All the Right Moves Tory Burch talks about her new activewear line, the perfect attire for hot Asian summers.

30 Packing Plumage Hong Kong’s

hot homegrown luggage brand is inspired by Wes Anderson films.

Bygone But Not Forgotten Peranakan shophouse-style pulsates through the renovated InterContinental Singapore.

art and design buys in Singapore.

42 Mellow Macau A weekend

itinerary that shows you the slower side of the casino city.

32 Past, Present, Peninsula The

Peninsula Beijing post makeover shows off more spacious rooms and cinema-equipped suites.

48 At Home on Hvar An insider’s

perspective on the changes sweeping the Dalmatian Islands, in Croatia.

34 Sound Check The latest noisecancelling headphones are tailor-made for travelers.

36 Berlin’s New Flavor Time has come for the German capital to flaunt its gastronomic appeal.

114

39 Gallery to Go Artisanal modern-

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

The Place 114 Singapore Despite its

diminutive size, the city-state somehow keeps on growing. Our guide on what to eat, drink and do now. By Melanie Lee

F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F U N L I S T E D C O L L E C T I O N ; E R I V E R H I J A N O ; C O U R T E S Y O F C H I C H I V O N TA N G ; K A R R Y N M I L L E R

25 In the Zone A peace-promoting

Beyond

t+l digital

LOOKOUT

4 HOT HONG KONG RESTAURANTS From Southern fried chicken to a S’more bar, the city’s coolest newcomers are taking comfort food to the next level.

A 1,000-KILOMETER DRIVE IN MALAYSIA Take the road less traveled with two of our contributors, to find 30,000-year-old cave art, waterfalls and wildlife.

DISCOVERING JAPAN’S YAEYAMA ISLANDS With peerless surfing waves, vibrant reefs and unique local culture, these lesser-known islands have plenty to offer.

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F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F C O B O H O U S E B Y 2 A M : D E S S E R T B A R ; K I T Y E N G C H A N ; N A O YA K I M O T O

THIS MONTH ON TR AVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM

All-star Instagrammers share their favorite foods; Kuala Lumpur’s kaiseki king; a new app for cooking classes across Asia; the latest travel deals and more.

contributors

Karryn Miller

Juliana Loh

In the Zone Page 25 — Miller visited the world’s unlikeliest location for an art gallery—the gray area between North and South Korea. A battleground during the war, the Yeoncheon-gun area was attacked by North Korea as recently as 2015. “A sense of unease still surrounds it. The hope is that Yeongang Gallery will help change the image of region by the DMZ.” Miller’s observations? “It’s a verdant, rural area that has a relaxed vibe to it. Looking out my car window was a view I’d expect during a pleasant country drive. However, looking at my passenger seat, where I had a military escort, made me realize this place is diﬀerent.”

Mellow Macau Page 42 — “Traditional, glitzy, slow” Macau, Loh says, is a study in contrasts, where dinner with a view can mean riding the cable car up to the unesco Guia fortress lighthouse for hot pot in the open air or going all in at Il Teatro at the Wynn. Her favorite stroll is down cobblestoned Rua da Felicidade, once the red-light district. “Every door is painted red and there’s plenty of cinematic history, from Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom—the car speeding down a ‘Shanghai’ street was shot here—to a little hotel in Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love, one of my favorite movies.” Instagram: @chickenscrawlings.

Pico Iyer

Grace Ma

The Great Wide Open Pages 88 — Iyer, who lives in Japan and has written travel books, went often to China and Tibet over the past 30 years, but he had never visited Mongolia. On his first trip there, he saw the old existing side by side with the new. “Nothing stunned me quite so much as my first night in Ulaanbaatar,” he says. “I expected the heartexpanding silence of the grasslands but discovered an eerie mix of vast Soviet squares and Vuitton outlets.” In the countryside, he found its undeveloped spaciousness made places like Patagonia feel crowded by comparison. Next up is a trip to Bhutan, which Iyer hasn’t seen in 27 years. Twitter: @PicoIyer.

Gallery to Go Page 39 — Driving the handmade and bespoke trends in Singapore now is a desire to “preserve our memorable stories and create new ones to tell the world.” Recommendations? Wheniwasfour is “a cozy store that reminds me of carefree childhood days. The corny colloquialisms on their stuﬀ crack me up!” Designer Ethan Koh’s couture bags—“quirky mangosteen and durian-shaped clasps, anyone?” And the new Hotel Indigo, with colorful pop art and murals reflecting the area’s rich Peranakan history. “They even have chairs and tables just like the ones I love in my grandparents’ house.” Instagram: @littlehappyideas.

W R I T ER

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF K ARRYN MILLER; COURTESY OF JULIANA LOH; DEREK SHAPTON; COURTESY OF GR ACE MA

AUGUST 2016

W R I T ER

LOSE YOURSELF. FIND YOURSELF. It is when we are furthest from home that we most become ourselves. This is where we discover new things, grow, share, and unite with others.

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Uncover the world’s most important travel experiences at

P R E F E R R E D H O T E L S . C O M #ThePreferredLife

T H E L E E L A PA L A C E NEW DELHI

THE UPPER HOUSE

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PREFERRED HOTELS & RESORTS WARMLY WELCOMES

editor’s note

AUGUST 2016

EACH YEAR, OUR WORLD’S BEST AWARDS MARKS AN OPPORTUNITY FOR YOU,

@CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com

A U G U S T 2 0 1 6 / T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M

From My Travels

You might not think a hotel room so small that your suitcase sits on the floor would be praiseworthy, but leave it to Singapore to take advantage of cozy size. The new Philippe Starck-designed M Social prides itself on maximizing space. I chose to spend the night in what’s dubbed a “Nicer” room. It had everything you could want in a hotel room, including a private garden—provided that most of your time will not be spent in the room itself. We’ll have more on such properties in the coming months, so stay tuned.

F R O M L E F T: T H A N A K O R N C H O M N AWA N G ; C O U R T E S Y O F M S O C I A L

our readers, to choose your travel favorites. Covering Asia, a blend of historyladen cultures and picture-postcard destinations, we tend to see the best of the region hovering at the top of, if not dominating, each list. This year is no exception (“The World’s Best Awards, page 59), with Nihiwatu, that magical Indonesian getaway, taking top honors as the best hotel in the world. What stands out most, aside from Nihiwatu’s modest size, is the connection its guests feel while there. As designer Yves Behar points out in the special section, “This is a place that gives you the opportunity to enter somebody else’s reality, somebody else’s tradition, somebody else’s culture.” That ideal is also evident with other winners. Singapore’s Changi Airport continues to set the bar; it’s never a trial to land or transit there. Singapore Airlines does the same, though the competition in Asia is stiﬀ: Cathay Pacific, Air New Zealand, EVA Air and Korean Air also crack the top 10. As far as destinations go, Chiang Mai, Luang Prabang and Kyoto all rate, while Palawan and Boracay make it a one-two Philippine punch at the top of the world’s best islands list. Waiheke, Cebu and Bali follow close behind. So, check out the World’s Best Awards, and start making your own travel plans. Let us know about your experiences, which helps us stay one step ahead of the curve.

A taste of tropical luxury on the magical island of Bali

Boasting magnificent views of the shimmering sea, Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spacious rooms and suites offer sophisticated style and exquisite comfort. Revel in a world of rejuvenation with a savant mix of world-class facilities, French cosmetology and tranquil surrounds. Discover all our magnifique addresses in over 40 countries on www.sofitel.com

ITDC Complex lot N5, Bali 80363 | +62 361 849 2888 | H9078@sofitel.com | www.sofitel.com

BURNING QUESTION

What’s the best way to get to Rio de Janeiro?

ON OUR WATCH

OCEAN OBSESSION

Your favorite beach hideaway could soon become the next Phuket. Expedia’s 2016 Global Flip Flop Report surveys 11,115 adults in 24 countries across the globe and finds beach vacations to be perennially popular: more than half of all respondents have taken to the shore in the past 12 months, and almost six in 10 are planning to take a beach vacation

THIS MONTH, T+L READERS DISCOVER OUR REGION’S GEMS BATHED IN THE MAGIC-HOUR GLOW.

Even with the Summer Olympics in Rio de Janeiro this month, it’s still really hard for Southeast Asia residents to get to South America. At 16,000 kilometers away, Rio is almost 2,000 kilometers farther than the distance covered by the world’s current longest flight. That no airline has a direct flight from our region to Brazil is less about aero-tech than cost: the Airbus A340 ostensibly could go as far as 16,700 kilometers nonstop, but that would be lots of fuel, few passengers, and high ticket prices. For now, your best option is Emirates’ relatively swift 23-hour-50-minute flight from Singapore, including a twohour layover in Dubai. Tickets on Turkish Airlines are generally the cheapest, but you’ll have at least two transits and much longer travel time. Or, take a holiday first in Australia then fly from Sydney; it’s only 19 hours over the Pacific to Rio, via Santiago, Chile.

#TLASIA

the conversation

At La Residence Blanc D’Angkor, in Siem Reap. By @araxrae

Starting the day in a Burmese village. By @joannaklyn

within a year. Among those planning a seaside break, almost half say they will be looking for a secluded shore. Their favorite activity? Relaxing and “doing nothing.” Luckily, not everyone is shipping off to a distant islet to ruin your peace. Famous beaches still attract most holidaymakers for being the center of activity, perhaps because an astounding 72% travel with families. Below is a more comprehensive look at how folks in our region prepare for a beach vacation. So if you are craving some time off on the sand and away from the

The Petronas sunrise silhouettes, in KL. By @leehorbachewski

crowds, ask the Thais; it seems they’ve all got secret shores up their sleeves.

32%

of Thai residents, the most in Asia, say they would postpone a beach vacation to get in shape.

2 IN 3

Thai residents will choose a secluded beach for their vacation.

Proportion of Indians who buy a new beach outfit before heading to the coast.

96%

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

US$87

The average amount Hong Kongers spend to get beach-ready, the highest among Asian countries surveyed.

of Singapore residents have taken a beach vacation abroad in the past year.

Sunset on Geumnyeonsan, in Busan. By @petedemarco SHARE AN INSTAGRAM PHOTO BY USING THE #TLASIA HASHTAG, AND IT MAY BE FEATURED IN AN UPCOMING ISSUE. FOLLOW @TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA

ÂŠ2016 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com/samui

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A M EMBER OF S MALL L UXURY H OTELS OF T HE W ORLD

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NEWS + TRENDS + DISCOVERIES

CULTURE

In the Zone

PH C O OTO U R T ECSRYE D OIFT YTEEO EN K AY GANG GALLERY

A new gallery on the border of the two Koreas is promoting the power of local talent... and peace. BY K ARRYN MILLER

Outside Yeongang Gallery.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

/ here&now!/

MOST TRIPS to a museum don’t require a military escort, but then Yeongang Gallery is not your typical art space. Above the South Korean Civilian Control Line, which runs alongside the Demilitarized Zone (commonly known as the DMZ), the gallery is the first of its kind to open near the heavily armed border. The site of fierce fighting during the Korean War is now verdant countryside as a result of it being designated for agriculture more than half a century ago. Despite an initial sense of unease upon entry— visitors must pass through a military checkpoint and be escorted by a soldier—the region, and the gallery itself, is remarkably tranquil. The inaugural exhibition by Han Sungpil, titled “Innocence,” echoes this by showing the rugged beauty of the area through photographs and

video installations, rather than highlighting that the 1950-53 war still has not officially ended. The gallery, formerly a “security exhibition hall,” displaying the belonging of spies and defectors to raise awareness about North Korean threats, has now been transformed

into an ode to peace with part of its façade consisting of towering whitewashed shutters with plaques framing messages of reconciliation from foreign embassies. A market and café round out the new space, which opened in May. The market sells a selection of locally produced goods, from honey to tea. The simple, almost rustic café is a pleasant stop for a cappuccino and homemade cake before either heading to the nearby Taepung Observatory to get a better look at North Korea, or starting the twohour drive back to central Seoul. That’s the benefit of being on the border: from one vantage you get a glimpse of two diﬀerent worlds. “Innocence” exhibition runs until November 20; 82-2/2268-1973; infoyeonganggallery@gmail.com; free entry, photo ID required.

RECON

Art and Seoul

MODERN DESIGN RULES INSIDE AND OUT AT THIS NEW GALLERY IN GANGNAM. After two years of construction, Platform-L Contemporary Art Center also opened this May in Seoul’s ritzy Gangnam area. The sleek four-story building, with a rooftop garden and expansive courtyard, was designed by local firm Joho Architecture and is run by Taejin International, under the umbrella of their upscale French brand Louis Quatorze. The new space embraces everything contemporary: the entire exterior is wrapped in metal louvers and the exhibition lineup promises to introduce works from young artists from Korea and throughout Asia. 11 Eunju-ro 133-gil, Gangnam-gu; 82-2/6929-4470; platform-l.org; tickets W5,000.

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F Y E O N G A N G G A L L E R Y ( 3 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F P L AT F O R M - L C O N T E M P O R A R Y A R T C E N T E R

FROM TOP: The exterior of Yeongang Gallery depicts scenes of local landscape; “Innocence” exhibition by photographer Han Sungpil; one of Han’s photos of Yeoncheon County titled Open Sky.

/ here&now!/ Handembroidered silk wallpaper at Rau Ram.

RESTAUR ANT

The Road to Rangoon

A cool bistro in Burma blends the best of the region, but with a definite Vietnamese bent. BY JENINNE LEE-ST. JOHN

COURTESY OF R AU R AM

RAU RAM has trotted across Asia and

robbed a little bit from all our favorite flavors. Chef Kevin Ching, an American graduate of Le Cordon Bleu culinary school, has created a menu inspired by his pan-Pacific life and travels—from the khanom chin noodles hawked by his favorite stall in Bangkok’s Chinatown to the oxtail stew “that my dad made for me growing up in Hawaii… with the volume turned up a bit.” The playful bistro launched in June by Pun + Projects, the team behind hip Rangoon gastropub Port Autonomy, was named after one of the most vital

Vietnamese herbs to emphasize how indigenous ingredients define national fare. “I wanted a name that would convey that sensory aspect of Southeast Asian cuisine,” says founder Ivan Pun. Fast-changing Rangoon, Pun says, is “ready for innovative restaurant concepts that can compete on an international level of creativity.” Inside is a winning blend of chinoiserie birds hand-embroidered on silk wallpaper by Hong Kong décor brand Lala Curio, Burmese rattan and teak furniture by local firm Paribawga, a palm tree motif, and French brasserie

touches. The layered style means you’ll feel equally at home sipping a potent calamansi mojito, sating your sweet tooth with Vietnamese coffee ice cream, or devouring Ching’s favorite dish, his version of the rice vermicelli and grilled meat smorgasbord bun cha: “We serve ours like it’s served in Hanoi, with spring rolls and pork meatballs, with the one addition of green samballaced porchetta—an homage to my days at the rotisserie at Appia in Bangkok.” We can’t wait to taste where these guys travel next. rauram.com; dinner for two K42,000.

T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 6

/ here&now!/ CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT:

Tory Burch on vacation in Antigua; the designer’s Southampton home; the Manhattan flagship of Tory Sport; her three sons in Italy. INSET: A vacation-ready look from Tory Burch’s Pre-Fall collection.

ST YLE

All the Right Moves

Drawing inspiration from her own summers in the Hamptons, Tory Burch dives into the world of activewear.

year when Tory Burch announced Tory Sport, her new venture into athletic wear. After all, Burch, a varsity tennis captain in high school, has spent the past decade or so turning her particular brand of preppy apparel into a fashion empire. “I saw a real shift in the way women were dressing,” the designer says. “There aren’t as many rules now. People are wearing sportswear in their evening looks, and it works.” After launching as an e-commerce business last year, Tory Sport now ships to countries in this region including Australia, New Zealand, China and India. Although she travels a lot, Burch still spends most of her summers at her home in Southampton.

Here, she shares the details of her vacation routine. HAMPTONS HAUNTS

A typical day for Burch includes a tennis game with friends, a coﬀee at Sant Ambroeus

(santambroeus.com), in Southampton, and gardening. “It’s all about being outdoors and hanging out with my boys,” says the designer, who has three sons. SUMMER UNIFORM

“I dress diﬀerently in the country than in the city. I wear tennis whites or our lightweight button-down camp shirts with espadrilles,” she says. “And I’m more drawn to color—my closet in the Hamptons is very colorful.”

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

RISE AND SHINE

SUITCASE ESSENTIALS

“My beauty routine is minimal,” says Burch, who often leaves her house with wet hair because she doesn’t have time to dry it. She wears Shiseido sunscreen (shiseido.com) or Armani moisturizer (armanibeauty.com). “I like makeup that does not look like you’re wearing makeup.”

“I have a portable pillow I take on every trip, and bracelets that have my boys’ names on them.” The designer, who often visits Italy, Antigua and France, says traveling also gives her more time to read. “I just reread The Sun Also Rises, and I’m going back to The Fountainhead next.” — STEPHANIE WU

COURTESY OF TORY BURCH

FEW WERE SURPRISED last

A gracious welcome at the Concierge.

A GrAnde dAme mAkes A new debut we’ve always been enamored of The Ritz-Carlton, Kuala Lumpur’s stellar spot in the heart of the city, its effortless elegance, and, of course, its brilliant butlers who’ve ensured that we had bookings at the top tables and our bags were packed when it was—sadly—time to leave. now, the city’s original standard-bearer for luxury is setting the bar even higher with a brand-new complete overhaul by Interior design Hall-of-Famer Alexandra Champalimaud. At the ritz-Carlton, kuala Lumpur, she’s created a classic yet contemporary cocoon that swaddles you from the stresses of the city, with every outlet reconceived as a warm welcome. we know it will be a challenge, but do pull yourself from the embrace of your sumptuous feather bed, and head to the Cobalt room to start off your day with an energizing breakfast. diverse food stations offering à la minute preparations from organic ingredients fill this elegant setting with delightful local and international flavors. Or, if you prefer the sun kiss of a gorgeous, gold-leaf ceiling, the stylish Lobby Lounge beckons for afternoon tea. For something stronger, adjourn to the brand-new, timber-floored the Library for a classic ritz Fizz before your tableside carvery dinner. And if you thought your marble-accented, lushly furnished room were a curative cocoon, in spa Village kuala Lumpur, with its ancient remedies and modern amenities, you’ll find the ultimate antidote to all that ails you. we found it in the new, one-of-its-kind-in-Asia sensory sound bath room, lit by a ceiling of stars and soundtracked by a chakra-clearing symphonic gong. the melodic, meditative massage therapy reminded us of everything we loved most about the ritz-Carlton, kuala Lumpur in the first place—namely, never wanting to leave.

The Lobby Lounge.

A sumptuous one-bedroom suite.

The Library’s elegant dining room.

to experience the refreshed ritz-Carlton, kuala Lumpur or to request further information, please contact +60 3 2142 8000, email ritzkl@ritzcarlton.com.my or visit www.ritzcarlton.com.

GOODS

Packing Plumage Italian style meets Hong Kong savvy in Very Troubled Child, a handmade luxury luggage brand. BY SAMANTHA LEESE

THIS FLIGHT OF FANCY

began with a wager. Alberto Favaretto, a Hong Kongbased finance lawyer turned entrepreneur, founded Very Troubled Child in 2013 after betting a friend that he could start a creative business with as little as HK$10. He won the gamble by starting small, making notebooks and phone covers to order and leveraging his

access to local factories and inexpensive materials. Soon he moved on to bags with a simple goal: to create “the best luggage in the world.” When Very Troubled Child introduced its signature No. 4 weekender duﬀel in a tropical Birds of Feathers pattern (left) last winter, it sold out in 48 hours. Besides Birds, two ranges are on sale now—a set of versatile solids; plus the Seafarer (right), launched this March—and all include a clutch and soft suitcases. The brand’s charm and top quality has spread by word of mouth. “I’m selling a little dream,” Favaretto says in an apt description for a company named after an

invention of the master of whimsy, Wes Anderson, whose aesthetic informs many of the bags’ designs. The book Coping with the Very Troubled Child features in Moonrise Kingdom, one of Favaretto’s favorite films. The energetic Italian has quit his job in derivatives to keep up with the demand for bespoke style and handcraftsmanship. Each product is made to order with Argentinian leather and has an emerald green cotton lining. The bags are hand-painted by master artisans in Hong Kong, and new designs are due later this year. verytroubledchild.com; signature weekenders from US$499, ships worldwide.

NOTICED

Sleep and the City

Expert napper Helen Dalley uncovers Hong Kong’s dreamiest new trend.

Nap Lounge. TOP RIGHT: David Lau.

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SAVE THE AFTER-DARK hours in Hong Kong for drinking and dancing; it is the hot midday that’s perfect for snoozing. Enter Nap Lounge, a new concept with outlets in Central, Tsim Sha Tsui and Wan Chai that offer serious solace from a city that doesn’t know the meaning of winding down. Taking inspiration from airport lounges, spas and hotels, the concept was dreamed up by local hotelier David Lau, who runs Popway Hotel, with lounges broken into business and first class cabins. Each pod has space for one guest, and the slightly roomier firstclass cabins have on-call refreshments. Available in 15-minute slots, all cabins have ergonomically designed nap chairs draped with sheets and blankets to snuggle under, relaxing music, free Wi-Fi, magazines, newspapers, chargers, slippers and a toothbrush. While you lounge about or grab some shut-eye, staff can screen your calls before you’re ready to emerge from your private pod, refreshed and ready to take on the city’s teeming streets once more. naplounge.com.hk; from HK$40 for 15 minutes.

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HOTELS

C O U R T E S Y O F I N T E R C O N T I N E N TA L S I N G A P O R E

Bygone But Not Forgotten

Concierge Lounge at InterContinental Singapore.

There’s a definite Peranakan twist in the renovated InterContinental Singapore, and it gives the 403-room hotel a homey feel despite being in the center of the city. In the lobby, subtle local design touches evoke the shophouse-living of Singapore’s past, from the batik tile floors to the traditional food containers and ceramics on the bookshelves. Deluxe rooms have been redone with silkthreaded wall coverings and detailed wood carvings. At Ash & Elm, the hotel’s European dining restaurant, a skylight canopy allows the tropical sky to alter the mood depending upon the time of day, while mosaic tiles, aged oak, and copper partitions enliven the restaurant at ground level. intercontinental. com; Deluxe rooms or Premier suites from S$350 a night, including late checkout until 4 p.m.

RACE TO THE TOP

Cheer the World’s Best Drivers from Two of Singapore’s Most Celebrated Hotels AS THE SINGAPORE Grand Prix zooms back into town this September 16-18, you’re going to want the pole position. Claim the best vantage point for the heart-stopping action: up above ensconced amid the highoctane luxury of two city icons. Swissôtel The Stamford towers above Turn 9 of the Marina Bay Street Circuit.

Fairmont Singapore sits pretty in the center of the pulsating party. To survey the shimmering circuit in style, each of these elegant properties offers 15 distinct restaurants and bars to fuel up and a range of impressive track-view rooms if you want to hit the brakes. Power your weekend to another

level at the award-winning New Asia, with acts from international DJs MC, Big Ali and Axtone Records’ New_ID. Or, pull out all the stops for a glamorous hospitality package that includes dinner and freeflow drinks in an opulent suite overlooking the track, as well as accommodation, for all your race-loving friends for all three

nights of the exhilarating event. In awe of the unrivaled service and views, they’ll be cheering you on for a victory lap. There are no better pit stops for the world’s only night race than Fairmont Singapore or Swissôtel The Stamford— where during the Singapore Grand Prix you’ll truly hear the Lion City roar.

For more information on Singapore Grand Prix hospitality packages and stay experiences, contact: FAIRMONT SINGAPORE +65-6339-7777 Fairmont.com/Singapore/ Diamond (for 20 guests) and Platinum (for 10) Hospitality Suite Packages + Plus four categories of track-view rooms

SWISSÔTEL THE STAMFORD +65-6338-8585 Swissotel.com/hotels/Singapore-stamford/ Sovereign (for 20 guests) and Ultimate (for 10) Hospitality Suite Packages + Plus four categories of track-view rooms

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Past, Present Peninsula

A mix of the Middle Kingdom and modern China, this iconic Beijing hotel sees a top-to-bottom makeover, writes Christopher Kucway. CALLING THE CHANGES TO the Peninsula Beijing a renovation is a bit like saying that wall in China is noticeable. The 27-year-old property reopens this month with 230 suite-style rooms, a drastic drop from the 525 rooms in its prior incarnation. Each has a separate bedroom, living room, bathroom and dressing room. Tablets are preset in 11 diﬀerent languages to control room access, all room functions and room-service menus. Public areas draw heavily from China’s modern art scene, and are designed as a welcome more often found in the city’s opulent palaces and vast gardens. beijing. peninsula.com; doubles from RMB2,200.

Bronze tea drinkers by Zhang Du sit in the lobby. Art across the hotel, using Ming- and Qing-era materials, evokes relaxation.

The most basic room is a vast 65 square meters; at 165 square meters, the 17 Beijing suites all include small cinemas. Peninsula’s iconic bellboys are present at every turn. In Beijing, there’s a catch: two are identical, smiling twins.

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Scallops at the farm-to-table restaurant, Jing (left). Count 50 varieties of tea at the Huang Ting Tea Lounge (right).

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Sound Check

The latest headphones go beyond noise cancelling with high-spec, intuitive functions made for travelers.

↑ HANDS-FREE 2.0 If you’re wearing Muzik Convertible headphones, chances are you’ll never need to reach for your phone. Buttons on the right-hand cup allow you to switch tracks, adjust volume, activate speed dial or answer an incoming call. muzikconnect.com; US$299.

↑ BET TER BEATS Standard Bluetooth technology limits the amount of data that can be transmitted, resulting in lower-quality sound. But Sony’s new Hear On headset can transfer three times as much data, delivering a fuller, more rounded listening experience. sony-asia.com; US$350.

Strike Gold There’s a never-ending assembly line of keyboard cases out there, but the new Incipio ClamCase+ for the iPad Air 2 is the first we’ve seen that truly makes your tablet feel like a laptop. Its fully backlit keyboard has real keys you can click, plus its sturdy hinge moves 360 degrees, allowing you to read or type at just about any angle. And it comes in a sexy shade of gold guaranteed to make your seatmates envious. clamcase.com; US$150. — N.E.

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↑ NOISES OFF Noise-cancelling needs differ whether you’re on a plane or at Tokyo’s Shibuya Crossing. That’s why JBL built NXTGen Active Noise Cancelling Technology into its Everest Elite 300—it lets you adjust how much ambient noise you’d like to let in, if any at all. jbl.com; US$250. — NIKKI EKSTEIN

A MUCH-NEEDED BOOST Finally, a lightweight solution to the parental anxiety that comes with Ubering your four-year-old without a proper booster seat. Unlike those clunky car seats of yore, which elevated kids to fit adult-sized seatbelt straps, the 1.6-pound Mifold securely lowers the belt down to a child’s height, avoiding sensitive impact areas like the neck and stomach. The Indiegogo-funded design takes up less space than a Macbook, is about the same weight as a bottle of water, and is as safe for kids ages four to 12 as any booster on the market. Throw one in your carry-on and never feel nervous about the cab ride from the airport again. mifold.com; US$39. — HEIDI MITCHELL

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← SMART SENSORS The ultralight Plantronics BackBeat Sense will outlast the world’s longest nonstop flight, delivering up to 18 hours of continuous use on a single charge. Among the secrets to its long battery life: sensors that automatically pause your music when you take the headphones off. plantronics.com; US$180.

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Berlin’s New Flavor

The German capital has officially entered its foodie phase. RESTAUR ANTS IN BERLIN

excellent prime rib and lots of oysters—but with daily French specials like coq au vin mixed in. Lode & Stijn (lode-stijn.de; set menus from €48), the first restaurant from Netherlandstrained chefs Lode van Zuylen and Stijn Remi, has opened just oﬀ Paul-Lincke-Ufer, in Kreuzberg. The pair embrace international food trends with their five-course menu, which might include lamb tartare on sourdough toast fried in lamb fat or salt-baked celeriac with hazelnuts and goat cheese. The food here is simple but memorable. The Store Kitchen (thestores.com; mains €7-€16) is the heart of the Store, a concept shop on the ground floor of Soho House. You could hang out here all day— and people do, over lunch of dishes like barley salad with squash and sage and dinner of charcuterie and North Sea shrimp. In the same building is Cecconi’s (cecconisberlin. com; mains €10-€32). It’s perpetually packed (reservations are a must, which is a rarity in this city), and almost every table has an order of lobster pasta or agnolotti with black truffle.

Vietnamese-German chef Duc Ngo was the first to bring quality sushi and ramen to Berlin, in the early aughts. He launched two places this spring, starting with Madame Ngo (madame-ngo.de; mains €8-€29), which serves phenomenal pho, and 893 (kuchi.de; mains €7-€45), where Ngo’s right-hand man, Masao Watari, grills yakitori and anticuchos. Ngo will also helm L’Atelier Provocateur (provocateur-hotel.com; mains €9-€64), opening this month at the Provocateur hotel, with a French- and Chinese-inspired menu that includes jasmine-tea-smoked duck breast with foie gras. Oskar Melzer‚ formerly of the deli Mogg & Melzer, has opened Louis Pretty ( fb.com/ louisprettyberlin; sandwiches €9-€12), near the design hub of Moritzplatz, in Kreuzberg. At the colorful café, locals and expats lunch on German interpretations of American Jewish deli food, like Reuben sandwiches and matzo ball soup. This kind of playful experimentation typifies Berlin’s current global outlook and is a welcome change to the culinary scene. — GISEL A WILLIAMS

COURTESY OF LOUIS PRET T Y

The dining room at Louis Pretty. INSET: Head chef, Joey Passarella.

used to get by with appealing to the right clientele and finding a cheap space. But these days both rents and expectations are higher— forcing everyone to up their game. “Young international chefs, with training in Scandinavia and Paris, are coming to Berlin and getting serious while having fun,” says restaurateur Ramses Manneck. The Mexican expat behind several laid-back, boozy boîtes recently opened a small bar called Wild Things (wildthingsberlin.de), where he serves natural wine and inventive snacks like Peking-duck rillettes. From the dapper crew behind legendary steak house Grill Royal and the Michelinstarred Pauly Saal comes Le Petit Royal (lepetitroyal.de; mains €25-€35), near the upscale Savignyplatz area of Charlottenburg. Despite its old-school society crowd, the dining room is lined with provocative art, such as a site-specific piece by Karl Holmqvist with the words i hate people when they are not polite. The menu is similar to the one made famous at the Grill Royal—

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s i nga p or e | m acau | c r oat i a

Gallery to Go SHOPPING

C O U R T E S Y O F AT O M I

Cookie-cutter pieces begone. Grace Ma uncovers bespoke buys in Singapore that will make your home look like a temple of modern art and design.

A scroll by calligraphy artist Suisen Nakatani, sold at Atomi.

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be stamping their mark in Singapore with flagship stores, but the real retail renegades are independent labels that have been capturing the hearts and wallets of savvy collectors with designs that reflect artisanal craftsmanship and a twist on traditional Asian motifs. Instead of items that shout out a social status, these pièces du jour tell stories of culture and tradition while showcasing techniques that have been revered through time. From Burmese-inspired leather bomber jackets to limited-edition ceramic plates imprinted with Singapore icons, here are five boutiques to check out for the next conversation starter in your wardrobe and home.

BIG BR ANDS MAY

ATOMI

You’ll have to help your dinner guests discern what is edible with Atomi’s contemporary kitchen and tableware. Brass trivets, cocktail picks and bottle-openers take on the forms of onion cross-sections, apple stems and lotus-root slices so pretty that eating may have to wait until after all the Instagrams have abated. Spurred by a passion for Japanese

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artisanal craftsmanship and the desire to make everyday living “more comfortable, stylish and pleasant,” Singaporean Andrew Tan and his Japanese wife Mitsuko curate items so unusual that you would be hard pressed to find some of them in even the quirkiest shops in Japan, Andrew says. Top picks for stylish wall hangings: Japanese calligrapher Suisen Nakatani’s energetic strokes of kokotsubun and kinbun motifs (Chinese oracle writing carved onto bones, turtle shells and bronze vessels), which are exhibited and sold until September 4 at Atomi’s Mandarin Gallery store (from S$1,600). atomi-jp.com.

ASIATIQUE COLLECTIONS

Chin Chelliah Bottinelli hung up her advertising hat to chase a childhood dream of owning her own interior design business when she opened the 28-square-meter Asiatique Collection back in 1998, in thenemerging hipster ’hood Dempsey Hill. Her spot-on aesthetic instincts quickly made her a favorite among a well-traveled clientele. The store has now grown into a 465-square-meter treasure trove of mantelpiece stunners ranging from platinum

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

Tribal jacket by Chi Chi Von Tang; jackfruit-inspired vase from Asiatique Collections; a scarf by Binary Style depicts Singapore’s Chinatown; a lotus-root bottle-opener from Atomi.

and marble snake bookends to handcrafted malachite plates from Portugal. To elevate your next flower arrangement with a little Southeast Asian flavor, opt for the Pointillist Vessel (S$1,490) from Thailand, which replicates the texture of the native jackfruit in hand-cast bronze. asiatiquecollections.com.

CHI CHI VON TANG

I am woman, hear me roar. There is nothing dainty in Singaporean street-luxe label Chi Chi Von Tang, which debuted last September by online independent label retailer Gnossem’s founder Lisa Crosswhite. Her signature Warrior Bomber jackets silhouette is oﬀered in sleek camo and bold prints of the traditional Chinese emperor jacket and the elegant cheongsam (S$475). Tribal designs, creamy cupro fabric, rustic-colored silks and highly textured linen rule the Fall/Winter 2016 Burma collection coming to the store this month, reflecting the impact of Crosswhite’s recent trip to the Kayah State of Burma with National Geographic photographers Noelia Madiedo and Jens Uwe Parkitny. “I was struck by how proud, open-hearted and strong the women were. I loved how they represented another concept of beauty and style.” Go ahead, all you badass babes, be the bomb. chichivontang.com

selected local brands and meet the brains behind the bronze…and silks and leathers and porcelains. Take home memories of iconic heritage ’hoods such as Chinatown and Little India encapsulated in labels Binary Style’s limited-edition polyester and silk chiﬀon scarves (from S$65) and Onlewo’s new fabric placemats (S$48 for two) and coasters (S$20 for a set of four). keepers.com.sg.

SUPERMAMA

Here’s your quintessential store for products that pump with artisanal and patriotic pride. Industrial designer and owner Edwin Low came up with the name Supermama in an homage to his wife’s unhesitating yes to the question of starting a business right after their second child was born, and adopted the logo from a midnight doodling session with his elder child. Low is personal friends with the designer behind each collection, and his talented social circle is the lifeblood powering this hub of contemporary Singaporean cultural gifts. The 2016 edition of the Singapore Architecture ceramic plate (S$24 for a 15-centimeter plate), which should land in stores this month, is a sure-

fire-hit souvenir. This year, Low has been busy opening a flagship store at Beach Road in March, hosting a trunk show, oﬀering workshops with Japanese artisans, and holding the sole retail exhibit at the Maison&Objet Asia fair, held in the city. Supermama also has a porcelain festival planned for September 16 to 30, showcasing the next ceramic trendsetters. supermama.sg.

FROM TOP: A plate by

Supermama shows iconic architecture along the Singapore River; Supermama’s flagship store on Beach Road.

COURTESY OF SUPERMAMA (2)

KEEPERS

Carolyn Kan has focused on Singaporean designers and artisans under Keepers showcases and popup stores since September 2011, while developing her own playful creations for her Carrie K. Artisan Jewellery atelier. “I want to build a community that brings together independent designers, artists and artisans,” she says, “with people who value unique design and time taken to make things well.” In May, Keepers found a permanent home in the National Design Centre as Keepers XVI: Home Is Where the Heart Is, where visitors can sample T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M / A U G U S T 2 0 1 6

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Mellow Macau

New openings and old classics with understated allure balance the bombast of the city’s mega casinos. BY JULIANA LOH THERE’S MORE TO MACAU than meets the eye. Look beyond the blinding neon of the next new giant casino-hotel opening, and you’ll find a lesser known and quickly developing side of the city that offers a subtler slice of life. Independent restaurants and shops, designed by a pool of upcoming local talent, are dipping into Macau’s history and natural bounty to offset the modern brightlight behemoths. Here, a weekend exploring the best of the city’s past, present and future.

FRIDAY

4:30 p.m. | Strip Down To kick off your weekend, start with the big bling. Check in at The St. Regis for unrivaled views of the strip, a Vegasstyle boulevard lined with hotels and casinos in a kaleidoscope of constant action, then drop your bags and head out to explore the dazzling Cotai area on foot. stregismacao.com; doubles from HK$2,488.

5:30 p.m. | Stroll the Streets Take a break from baccarat and wander towards Taipa Village for a Portuguese treat at San Hou Lei, a local diner that is famous for their delicious bird’s-nest egg tarts. Take in the antiquity of beautiful old tiles and cobblestone streets as you meander the little alleys of Taipa Village. 13-14 R. do Regedor; 853/2882-7313; tarts for two MOP24.

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7:30 p.m. | Favor the Saber Samurai some bubbly at the champagne sabering ceremony at The St. Regis Bar. Next, order their signature Bloody Mary cocktail “Maria do Leste” inspired by Portuguese mariners, with spices from the trade route they once sailed. Hungry? Head next door to The Manor for a great steak or fresh seafood. themanormacao.com; dinner for two MOP1,000. >>

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Brunch or bungee at Macau Tower; alternative café Rethink Coffee; Pacha at Studio City heats up; the “Maria do Leste” cocktail at The St. Regis Bar.

/ beyond!/W E E K E N D 11:00 p.m. | Dance ’til Dawn Revelers and night owls head over to Pacha at Studio City, which brings in a stream of international DJs to rock the 90-square-meter dance floor for parties that last ’til daybreak. pachamacau.com/ en; cover charge MOP200 including one drink, cocktails for two MOP200.

SATURDAY

10:00 a.m. | Get Sandy Walk over to Nam Ping and order the savory miracle that is their omelet, ham and char siu pork sandwich, which has been on the menu for more than half a century. And save room for a Chinese donut,

endearingly called sa wong in Cantonese, which translates to “sandy old man,” perhaps a nod to the dusting of powdered sugar. 54 R. de Cinco de Outubro; 853/2892-2267; breakfast for two MOP44. 11:00 a.m. | See the Future Head to A-Ma Temple, built in 1488, a UNESCO World Heritage site also famous for its fortune tellers, with experts in the art

using an ancient technique of shaking a bamboo cylinder to answer their patrons’ questions about job opportunities or love. If you are more interested in the past than the future, there’s still intrigue here aplenty. This is the spot where the Portuguese first set foot in Macau in the 1500s, and hearsay has it that when these pioneers asked where they were, the locals

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Smoking beats at Pacha; living large at The St. Regis Macao; Casa do Porco Creto imports melt-in-your-mouth meats from Portugal; roasted suckling pork at Casa do Porco Creto.

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answered with the Cantonese name of the temple, “Ma Kok Miu,” which is how the name Macau stuck for the peninsula. A-Ma Temple, Barra Square. 12:30 p.m. | Meat Up Owner of Casa do Porco Creto, Vanda Rodrigues serves family-style Portuguese cuisine, and prides himself on the quality of his farm-to-table meat and produce. The animals are raised in Galveias, the Portuguese region of Alto Alentejo known for agriculture, farming and cork production, and then served in his restaurant in Macau: not entirely slow food, but one can taste the richness and flavors of the pork, lamb and beef thanks to the free-roaming diet of luscious Portuguese grass. The menu is large, but start with the signature leitão assado, or suckling pig. 310 Fong Son San Chun Block 5, R. do Almirante Sérgio, Barra; 853/2896-6313; lunch for two MOP600. 3:00 p.m. | Get Fishy Sardines are a staple of the Portuguese diet, and this >>

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8:30 a.m. | Peer at the Pier For a window on local life, take a walk along the Ponte 16 pier and watch the last batch of fishermen arrive with their catch of the day before the thrashing hauls of grouper, sole and pomfret are carted off to the wet markets for sale.

/ beyond!/W E E K E N D CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Japas serves up Japanese tapas in a modern setting; a funky Matcha tea frappé from Rethink Coffee; fill up on fresh lobster at Tromba Rija’s famous brunch; past and future collide at A-Ma Temple.

Laguiole. Only set menus are available, featuring a fusion of Japanese staples and Spanish tapas resulting in well balanced dishes like steamed egg and sea urchin or the yuzu tart served with lemongrass ice cream, but you can never count on a specific recipe to appear in the line up; their menu is always changing based on the freshest seasonal produce available. 165-307 R. do Padre Eugénio Taverna; 853/2852-1199; fb.com/japasmacau; set menus from MOP380.

influence is very much alive at Lojas das Conservas Macau

where shelves are lined with beautifully packaged cans of sardines of various vintages, qualities and marinates. Check the wall for information on each fisherman and producer, a form of preserving part of the artisanal food craft. 9 Trv. do Aterro Novo; 853/65718214; fb.com/lojadas conservasmacau; can of sardines MOP35. 7:00 p.m. | Snack on Japas Japas is a beautifully fitted restaurant with classy rustic interiors helmed by Macau chef Anthony Sousa Tam whose culinary experience includes working in kitchens from Noma to Michel Bras’

Getting There Regional airlines all fly into Macau, including several budget carriers like Tigerair (tigerair. com), Thai Smile (thaismileair.com) and Jetstar Asia (jetstar.com). Alternatively, arrive by ferry (turbojet.com.hk; tickets from HK$158); it’s just an hour from Hong Kong or Shenzhen, and the ferry rides are pretty stable except for during bad weather and typhoon season. For those with deep pockets, take a helicopter (skyshuttlehk.com) from Hong Kong (HK$4,300) or Shenzhen (HK$5,900) one-way and get there in just 15 minutes.

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11 a.m. | Brunch like a Local It is easy to see why the Tromba Rija in the Macau Tower is where the Portuguese community gathers for traditional family Sunday brunch. The setting is bright with floor-to-ceiling windows offering views of the sea and there’s an equally expansive buffet spread that includes fresh seafood, salads, meats and traditional desserts. macautower.com. mo; buffet MOP378 per person. 1 p.m. | Fuel up, Fly out Before heading to the ferry terminal or airport, pop into Rethink Coffee, a cute little shop serving craft coffee and tea. Here, baristas roast their own coffee beans and the menu is divided into classics, exclusives and alternatives— so whether you’re craving a flat white, Macanese latte or a fresh cold lemonade, they’ve got you covered. 76 R. de Berlim, Alameda Dutor Carlos d’Assumpção; 853/6309-1619; fb.com/rethinkcoffeeroasters; flat white MOP36.

F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F J A PA S ; F U S E / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; C O U R T E S Y O F R E T H I N K C O F F E E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T R O M B A R I J A ; C O U R T E S Y O F T U R B O J E T

Sunday

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At Home on Hvar Joshua Levine fell for the beauty of Croatia’s Dalmatian islands as a wide-eyed college kid. When he returned decades later to buy a house, he found that nothing—and everything—had changed. PHOTOGR APHED BY ÉRIVER HIJANO

The view from the 16thcentury Spanish fort overlooking Hvar town.

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/ beyond!/P E R S P E C T I V E IN 2003, I BOUGHT AN OLD STONE HOUSE on the Croatian island of Hvar from a fellow named

Mikšić. I agreed to pay his asking price in cash, but when I inquired about bringing a certified check to the closing, there was polite laughter. A piece of paper purporting to represent money isn’t really money, he told me, as an adult would disabuse a child of a silly notion. Which is how I found myself on a flight to Split with a big wad of cash rolled up in my sock, like a proper grown-up. Before Communism blew itself up in the early 1990s, much of Eastern Europe came to this stretch of coast to play. In summer, the Serbs would make a beeline for the beaches of Yugoslavia, which in those days encompassed Croatia and its immediate neighbors. (Even after the Balkan wars turned friends into enemies, many soberminded Croats still missed the Serbs’ wild parties and big tips.) Czechs, Poles and Hungarians rattled down in their Ladas and Škodas. East Germans packed up the camper, hit the beach and promptly took oﬀ all their clothes, which explains the abundance of Croatian beaches designated FKK, or Freikörperkultur, for Germany’s nudism movement. I first stumbled into this pinko Eden during a college road trip in the 1970s. On the ferry over from Italy, my roommate Charlie and I met two East German girls—I can only think of them as a single unit called Gisele-undErika. When we docked in Dubrovnik, they took our sweaty hands and led us right to the nearest FKK beach. When I came back 30 years later, much had changed. The Balkan wars of the nineties hadn’t reached the islands, but they had killed the buzz all the same. Now, instead of German nudists, I found English real estate speculators. I wasn’t the only dreamer with a sock full of money: it seemed half the U.K. was going from village to village, pale-faced and floppy-hatted, looking to convert the profits of their real estate bubble into a slice of sunshine. You could still get a very nice stone house for €50,000, but prices were climbing week by week. This suited me fine. I wanted what they wanted. I had moved to Paris from New York not long before and sold my apartment in the West Village. The rocky islands of the Dalmatian Coast seemed to represent a rare chance to get in on a real estate bonanza in an undervalued paradise. While the Spanish, Italians and French were trashing their coastlines with overbuilding, no one had laid a finger on Croatia’s 1,244 magnificent islands. You could still read their history, frozen in stone. In the big port towns, the Venetians had marked their dominion with graceful Renaissance churches. The Hapsburgs had left stolid Neoclassical civic centers and a tradition of complex bureaucracy. In the hills, the villagers had built thick-walled houses with small windows to keep out the sharp north wind. The islands still look pretty much the same as they did back then, aside from some more recent Communist cinder-block development. There’s virtually no industry,

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just a sprawl of craggy limestone ridges speckled with olive trees, grapevines, and perfumed pine, lavender and rosemary. And surrounding everything, water as clear as a windowpane—the same water that had dazzled me when Gisele-und-Erika dived into it naked so long ago. I decided to do my house-hunting on the island of Hvar. It’s easy to get to from Split, where there’s an international airport; it’s one of the larger and sunnier of the Dalmatian islands; and it has long enjoyed a terrific word-of-mouth reputation as a vacation spot, going all the way back to the time of the ancient Greeks. Finding an empty house for sale wasn’t hard. Over the years, many islanders had left to find work on the mainland or emigrated to places like Australia, so the trick was finding a vacant property’s owners. A lot of the older stone houses had been handed down through many

generations, and it was not unusual to find a tiny place owned by 17 cousins who were scattered around the globe. To get a clean sale, you had to track down all of them—even the ones in the outback. There was also a lively trade in houses abandoned during the war by their Serb owners. The thinking was, “Who’s to know? They’re never coming back.” I’m pretty sure I looked at some of these houses, my guide a menacing giant named Scarpa, who wore two rings in his massive ears and rode around on a little motor scooter, like a malevolent circus bear. I was thrilled to come across the Mikšić house in Rudina, a tiny village just up the hill from Stari Grad, Hvar’s second-largest town. The place needed work, but the stonework was solid. It overlooked a generous garden and, beyond that, the sea. A short walk down the hill was a secluded cove—perfect for sunning, swimming or night-fishing for octopus (which my neighbor, Bortul, kindly oﬀered to teach me to do). Best of all, Mikšić was the property’s sole owner, although he turned out to be a handful all by himself. The

the Turks, and the fortress they built still looms over the town. Looking out from its battlements today, you can spy a more jolly armada. Ahoy, it’s Paul Allen! After the yachts came the clubs. Women’s heels got higher, and the restaurants got pricier. Before long, people started calling Hvar the new Ibiza. No, said others, it’s the new St.-Tropez! Thankfully it is neither, but the dull disco thump on summer nights does suggest that Hvar town is being absorbed into the jet-set ecosystem. I had mixed emotions as I watched the changes in the town from my side of the island, about a 20-minute drive down the coast through a tunnel in the spine that splits the island in two. I rarely go there, but the real estate mogul in me welcomed anything that might boost housing prices. Party on, dudes, I urged silently. Just stay away from my side of the tunnel. The villages on the south side, like Hvar, cling to the steep sides of the ridge. The weather is drier and hotter, and the sea is always at your elbow. The north side is shadier and gentler, rich with normal island life. There, summer nights are more likely to carry the sounds of

Summer nights on the north side of the, island are likely to carry the sounds of traditional Croatian a capella choirs Dalmatians can be crusty and disputatious, and like many island people, they tend to look funny at anybody from beyond the water’s edge. The fact that I met Mikšić’s price simply meant that negotiations were just beginning. I never understood the various objections he raised, but over an anxious summer I came close to losing the house several times. The renovations went painfully slowly and cost far more than I ever figured. I suspected I was getting fleeced. Why was the forged-iron railing for my terrace so expensive? “The guy has to pound it and pound it!” came the unconvincing explanation from the contractor, a tanned and smiling former government official who, I learned later, was known for sharp dealing. True, I was a bit of an idiot, but you always end up paying for experience. And it was worth it, because the house eventually came damn close to what I had dreamed of. I almost feel like I’m watching the garden grow as I sit there: the olive trees have jumped a meter since I planted them, and the bougainvillea has to be cut back continually so it doesn’t murder us all. In the years after I bought the house, the Dalmatian islands slowly began to awaken. On Hvar, big yachts started docking in the horseshoe harbor of the island’s biggest town, also called Hvar. The Venetians had turned it into a naval base in the 16th century to help them fight

The author’s house, in the village of Rudina. OPPOSITE: Though mega-yachts line the harbor of Hvar town in high season, small fishing boats are more common.

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/ beyond!/P E R S P E C T I V E ‘Locals like things the way they are. Once you embrace that, you are half Dalmatian already’ traditional Croatian a cappella choirs (think of an intense barbershop quartet). Stari Grad just got its first boutique hotel, Heritage Villa Apolon, a pink Neoclassical villa on the waterfront. Four Seasons has announced plans to build a resort on Stari Grad Bay, which should give the town a boost without warping its low-key character. But despite such steps toward the touristic mainstream, there’s little danger Stari Grad will go the way of Hvar town—its appeal is much too subtle for that. There has been talk for years, for instance, of building an airport on the island. I will be shocked if it ever happens. For the time being, there’s a new seaplane service from Split to the port of Jelsa, near Stari Grad. I picked up a friend there recently. The passengers looked very glamorous stepping onto the pontoon—all eight of them. In general, I have to say that the bonanza that looked inevitable when I bought the Mikšić house now looks distinctly evitable. The Croatian real estate bubble was inflated by other bubbles; when those other bubbles popped, ours popped harder. There’s another problem, although I’ve learned to look at it more as a blessing. The Dalmatians can be maddeningly diffident when it comes

to capitalizing on the natural gifts God has bestowed upon them. My friend Paul Bradbury runs a delightful blog called Total Hvar, which promotes the island he moved to from England and loves. Many’s the time I have caught up with him at his regular café in Jelsa, furious at the local merchants who have defeated yet another of his sensible commercial proposals. Over the years, he’s started getting used to it. “I have seen foreign entrepreneurs come and go,” Bradbury told me recently. “They mostly fail because the locals like things the way they are. Once you embrace that, you’re half Dalmatian already.” I thought about this over dinner at the house of a local guy I know named Borivoj, which is in the middle of an olive grove behind the village of Vrisnik. From there you can see many of the island’s northern villages: Svirče and Pitve in the hills, Jelsa and Vrboska on the water, then out to Brac island and the mountains of the mainland beyond. It’s quite a view. If you know people who know Borivoj, you can get him to make you a traditional peka—lamb, goat or octopus cooked for 24 hours in a bell-shaped cast-iron casserole. The dish can be greasy, and you don’t want to eat peka every day, but it’s hard to find a meal much more comforting. Borivoj told me he is planning to turn his little house into a restaurant next year. Or maybe not. Personally, I don’t care one way or the other, and the greedy property developer inside me doesn’t either.

THE DETAILS HOTEL S & VILL AS Little Green Bay An old stone farmhouse restored by a chic Parisian brother and sister on a secluded bay. Hvar; littlegreen bay.com; doubles from €350. Villa Apolon A funky pale-pink villa with rooms facing Stari Grad’s harbor. apolon.hr; doubles from €169. Villas Hvar With an inventory of more than 70 villas, cottages and apartments across the island, this is the main rental company on Hvar. villashvar.com; from €490 per week.

Hvar resident Borivoj inspects olives in his grove near the village of Vrisnik. He’s known in the area for his peka, a Croatian stew.

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RESTAUR ANTS Gariful Known for its “drunk lobster,” this fish restaurant along the harbor promenade in Hvar town is considered by many

to be the island’s best. hvargariful.hr; mains €30–€100. Konoba Dvor Dubokovic A charming restaurant in the hillside village of Pitve that does a great octopus peka. dvordubokovic.hr; mains €7–€53. Palmizana Meneghello An island restaurant, art gallery and nature preserve 15 minutes from Hvar town. palmizana.com; mains €10–€100. TOUR OPER ATOR Secret Dalmatia Whether you choose to stay on Hvar or hop around the many adjoining Dalmatian islands, Alan Mandic and his crew can develop a custom itinerary that takes you to places you never knew existed. secretdalmatia.com.

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In celebration of HM Queen Sirikit’s 7th cycle Birthday Explore the great myths on the music of Richard Wagner. A sublimation of romanticism expressed by the language of the bodies.

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Ballet du Grand Théâtre de Genève, Switzerland Supported by the Embassy of Switzerland

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THE TOP CITIES, HOTELS, CRUISE LINES, DESTINATION SPAS, AIRLINES, TOUR COMPANIES, AND MORE, AS DETERMINED BY OUR VERY DISCERNING READERS.

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Uluwatu Temple on the Bukit Peninsula in Bali.

Who’s to judge? You are. Every year T+L asks readers to dish on their travel experiences—to share their opinions on everything from Asian islands to European cities, all-inclusive beach resorts to hilltop palazzos. Those assessments collectively define excellence in travel today, forming the basis of the World’s Best Awards. This year’s edition marks the biggest World’s Best Awards ever. We counted a record number of votes—more than 200,000 respondents submitted ratings—added dozens of new categories, and saw a heap of new players make the lists. (For more details on how the awards work, turn to page 84.) Kudos to all the winners, and thanks to you. Edited by Sara Clemence TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

WORLD’S BEST

TOP 10

Cities & Islands

Cities

CHARLESTON IS THE FIRST U.S. DESTINATION IN 16 YEARS TO TOP OUR LIST OF THE MOST LAUDED CITIES. AND PALAWAN RETURNS AS READERS’ FAVORITE ISLAND.

1 Charleston South Carolina 91.66 2 Chiang Mai Thailand 91.25 3 San Miguel de Allende Mexico 91.19 4 Florence 89.85 H 5 Luang Prabang Laos 89.85 6 Kyoto Japan 89.75 7 New Orleans 89.75 8 Barcelona 89.60 9 Savannah Georgia 89.57 10 Cape Town 89.46

TOP 10

Palawan, known for its dramatic karsts, also crowned the islands list in 2013. T+L ONLINE

WANT MORE WORLD’S BEST AWARDS?

Head to tandl.me/worldsbest for photos of every winner, videos, extended lists and more. H HALL OF FAME On the list for the past 10 years.

Scores have been rounded to the nearest hundredth of a point; in the event of a true tie, winners share the same ranking.

From private-island resorts to urban palaces, you’ll find spots to inspire you with our gorgeous photographs of winners around the globe.

Charleston, Chiang Mai, Maui and beyond—get an intimate look at the top destinations with our exclusive video tours.

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Don’t see one of your favorites in the rankings? It only takes a few seconds to nominate them to appear on T+L’s annual reader survey.

1 Palawan Philippines 93.71 2 Boracay Philippines 90.47 3 Ischia Italy 90.22 4 Waiheke Island New Zealand 90.00 5 Santorini Greece 89.07 6 Cebu Philippines 88.65 7 Maui Hawaii 88.55 H 8 Hilton Head South Carolina 88.35 9 Kauai Hawaii 88.33 H 10 Bali Indonesia 88.24 H

JO H N SE ATON CA LL A H A N / G E TT YI MAG ES

Islands

WORLD’S BEST

HOTELS

Oberoi Hotels & Resorts is the No. 1 hotel brand for the second year in a row.

C O URT ESY OF OB E ROI H OT E LS & RES ORTS

TOP 10

READERS SAY... “Oberoi is unique in its ability to transform a busy place into a sanctuary of tranquillity. They even manage to make the air in the hotels refreshingly clean.”

Hotel Brands

1 Oberoi Hotels & Resorts 95.84 2 Oetker Collection 94.29 3 Aman 94.26 4 One&Only Resorts 94.17 5 The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts 93.40

6 The Peninsula Hotels 93.25 7 Capella Hotels & Resorts 93.00 8 Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts 92.64 9 Commune Hotels & Resorts 92.55 10 Dorchester Collection 92.33 11 Belmond 92.27 12 Langham Hotels & Resorts 91.93 13 Auberge Resorts Collection 91.90 14 St. Regis 91.88 15 Rosewood Hotels & Resorts 91.17

Trend

REMOTE HOTELS The votes make it clear: T+L readers are willing to travel far—really far—for outstanding accommodations, whether that is a surf haven in Indonesia (Nihiwatu), a quirky luxury lodge on a fjord in Chile (the Singular Patagonia), a villa in the treetops of South Africa (Londolozi), or far-flung isles of Australia (Southern Ocean Lodge) or French Polynesia (The Brando). For more on the last, which makes its splashy debut this year, turn to Return to Tahiti, page 98.

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WORLD’S BEST

Top 100 Hotels 1 Nihiwatu Sumba, Indonesia 98.35 2 Spectator Hotel Charleston, South Carolina 97.78 3 Huka Lodge Taupo, New Zealand 97.65 4 Montage Kapalua Bay Maui, Hawaii 97.39 4 Southern Ocean Lodge Kangaroo Island, Australia 97.39 6 Lodge at Glendorn Bradford, Pennsylvania 97.38 7 The Willcox Aiken, South Carolina 97.25 8 Casa Gangotena Quito, Ecuador 97.20 9 Twin Farms Barnard, Vermont 97.19 10 Singular Patagonia Puerto Bories, Chile 97.14 11 Singita Grumeti Serengeti National Park Area, Tanzania 97.11 12 Farmhouse Inn Forestville, California 97.07 13 Londolozi Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 97.06 14 The Peninsula Shanghai 97.01 15 Hotel Castello di Casole–A Timbers Resort Casole d’Elsa,

Italy 97.01 16 Gateway Canyons Resort & Spa Gateway, Colorado 97.00 17 Cavas Wine Lodge Mendoza, Argentina 96.99 18 Singita Sabi Sand Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 96.95 H 19 Manoir Hovey North Hatley, Quebec 96.93 20 The Brando Tetiaroa, French Polynesia 96.80 21 Château du Sureau Oakhurst, California 96.77 22 Oberoi Udaivilas Udaipur, India 96.76 H 22 Opposite House Beijing 96.76 22 Triple Creek Ranch Darby, Montana 96.76 25 Wequassett Resort & Golf Club Chatham, Massachusetts 96.68 26 Old Edwards Inn & Spa Highlands, North Carolina 96.67 27 Weekapaug Inn Westerly, Rhode Island 96.67 28 Oberoi Vanyavilas Ranthambhore, India 96.63 29 Mombo Camp and Little Mombo Camp Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana 96.50

30 Rosewood Mayakoba Playa del Carmen, Mexico 96.39 31 Sol y Luna Sacred Valley, Peru 96.36 32 Nayara Springs Arenal Volcano National Park, Costa Rica 96.36 33 Kamalame Cay Andros, Bahamas 96.30 34 XV Beacon Boston 96.27 35 St. Regis Bali Resort Indonesia 96.22 36 Tongabezi Lodge

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Livingstone, Zambia 96.20 37 Alpina Gstaad Gstaad, Switzerland 96.00 37 Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne, Switzerland 96.00 37 Brenners ParkHotel & Spa Baden-Baden, Germany 96.00 37 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai, Thailand 96.00 37 Rosewood Sand Hill

Menlo Park, California 96.00 42 Katikies Hotel Santorini, Greece 95.95 43 41 London 95.94 44 Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens Arenal Volcano National Park, Costa Rica 95.91 45 Lodge at Sea Island Georgia 95.90 46 Lodge & Cottages at Primland Meadows of Dan, Virginia 95.87 47 Ashford Castle

County Mayo, Ireland 95.84 48 Las Ventanas al Paraíso, A Rosewood Resort San José del Cabo, Mexico 95.81 49 Gasparilla Inn & Club Boca Grande, Florida 95.76 50 Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa Rancho Santa Fe, California 95.69 51 Nam Hai Hoi An, Vietnam 95.63 52 Fogo Island Inn Newfoundland 95.60

C O URT ESY OF N I HI WAT U

BIGGER ISN’T NECESSARILY BETTER—SMALL PROPERTIES, MANY OF THEM INDEPENDENT, DOMINATE THE RANKINGS.

No. 1 hotel Nihiwatu was born in 2000 as a rustic surf retreat.

53 Brewery Gulch Inn Mendocino, California 95.59 54 Hotel Santa Caterina Amalfi, Italy 95.57 55 Acqualina, Miami Sunny Isles Beach, Florida 95.53 56 Chanler at Cliff Walk Newport, Rhode Island 95.51 57 Zamas Hotel Tulum, Mexico 95.49 58 J.K. Place Capri, Italy 95.46

59 Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur, India 95.45 H 60 Lion Sands Game Reserve Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 95.42 61 Winvian Farm Morris, Connecticut 95.41 62 Inn at Hastings Park Lexington, Massachusetts 95.40 63 Curtain Bluff Antigua 95.40

64 The Surrey New York City 95.37 65 Farm at Cape Kidnappers Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 95.33 66 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 95.33 67 Biltmore Hotel Coral Gables, Florida 95.32 68 Milestone Hotel London 95.32 69 La Réserve Paris Hotel, Spa & Apartments Paris 95.29

70 La Residence Franschhoek, South Africa 95.27 71 The Goring London 95.19 72 Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle Chiang Rai, Thailand 95.17 73 Cloister at Sea Island Georgia 95.16 74 Tambo del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Sacred Valley, Peru 95.11

75 Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa Johannesburg, South Africa 95.09 76 Gleneagles Hotel Perthshire, Scotland 95.08 77 Tu Tu’tun Lodge Gold Beach, Oregon 95.06 78 Leela Palace New Delhi 95.06 79 Le Bristol Paris 95.06 80 Sonnenalp Hotel Vail, Colorado 95.04

81 Villa Cora Florence 95.04 82 Ocean House Watch Hill, Rhode Island 95.03 83 Inn by the Sea Cape Elizabeth, Maine 94.97 84 La Casa Que Canta Zihuatanejo, Mexico 94.96 84 Madikwe Safari Lodge Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa 94.96 86 Inn at Harbour Town Hilton Head Island, South Carolina 94.95 87 Qualia Hamilton Island, Australia 94.89 88 The Lanesborough London 94.87 89 Egerton House Hotel London 94.86 90 Jade Mountain St. Lucia 94.85 91 Greenwich Hotel New York City 94.76 92 The Knickerbocker New York City 94.75 93 River Inn of Harbor Town Memphis, Tennessee 94.71 94 The House Barbados 94.70 95 Singita Kruger National Park South Africa 94.65 H 96 Inn Above Tide Sausalito, California 94.62 97 Cape Grace Cape Town 94.59 H 98 Taj Lake Palace Udaipur, India 94.56 99 Resort at Pedregal Cabo San Lucas, Mexico 94.52 100 andBeyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya 94.50

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WORLD’S BEST

Asia

SOUTHEAST ASIA TAKES TOP HONORS IN CITIES, ISLANDS AND RESORT HOTELS. TOP 10

TOP 10

Islands

City Hotels

1 Palawan Philippines 93.71 2 Boracay Philippines 90.47 3 Cebu Philippines 88.65 4 Bali Indonesia 88.24 H 5 Luzon Philippines 88.23

1 The Peninsula Shanghai 97.01 2 Opposite House Beijing 96.76 3 Leela Palace New Delhi 95.06 4 Oberoi Gurgaon New Delhi 94.42 5 Shinta Mani Hotel Siem Reap, Cambodia 94.12

6 Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 94.11 7 Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street 93.90 8 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 93.68 H 9 Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake Hangzhou, China 93.39 10 Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore 93.35

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TOP 10

Resort Hotels

1 Nihiwatu Sumba, Indonesia 98.35 2 Oberoi Udaivilas Udaipur, India 96.76 H 3 Oberoi Vanyavilas Ranthambhore, India 96.63 4 St. Regis Bali Resort Indonesia 96.22

5 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai, Thailand 96.00 6 Nam Hai Hoi An, Vietnam 95.63 7 Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur, India 95.45 H 8 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 95.33 H 9 Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle Chiang Rai, Thailand 95.17 10 Taj Lake Palace Udaipur, India 94.56

READERS SAY... “Chiang Mai is packed with energy and excitement.”

C O URT ESY OF T H E P E N I N S U L A S H A N G H A I. OP P OS IT E : C H A N S RI T HAW E E P ORN / GE TTY IM AG ES

Salon de Ning main bar, at the Peninsula Shanghai, was inspired by Art Deco mansions of the 1930s.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, in Chiang Mai, a northern Thai city with cultural sites to spare.

TOP 10

Cities

1 Chiang Mai Thailand 91.25 2 Luang Prabang Laos 89.85 3 Kyoto Japan 89.75 H 4 Siem Reap Cambodia 88.96 H 5 Bangkok 88.96 H 6 Hoi An Vietnam 88.54 7 Ubud Indonesia 88.52 8 Udaipur India 87.19 9 Tokyo 86.02 10 Lhasa 85.56

WINNER’S CIRCLE

NIHIWATU By Yves Béhar

t’s not a place you go because you want a luxurious retreat from the real world. I’ve been visiting for six years, and for me the question is, Where can I take my family

where we’re going to be outdoors the entire time? At Nihiwatu, there is no sort of indoor space per se, besides your bedroom. You feel very connected to the beach and the ocean. But what makes it really special is the local culture. The island is populated by animists who live in small villages. Life there hasn’t changed much for half a millennium. Ninety percent of the staﬀ are local. We see them every year: we’ve

visited their houses, they’ve taught me how to battle with a sword. That just doesn’t happen when you have Swisstrained butlers and hotel operators. This is a place that gives you the opportunity to enter somebody else’s reality, somebody else’s tradition, somebody else’s culture. Yves Béhar is a designer, entrepreneur and sustainability advocate.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

WORLD’S BEST

TOP 5

TOP 10

Hotels Hong Kong

Hotels Tokyo

Hotels Beijing

Resort Hotels India

Resort Hotels Indonesia

Resort Hotels Southeast Asia

1 The Peninsula 92.61 2 Four Seasons Hotel 91.84 3 Mandarin Oriental 91.63 4 The Langham 90.48 5 Upper House 90.22

1 Mandarin Oriental 94.11 2 Palace Hotel 91.87 3 Ritz-Carlton 91.74 4 Park Hyatt 91.72 5 Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi 90.79

1 Opposite House 96.76 2 Ritz-Carlton Beijing, Financial Street 93.90 3 Regent 93.33 4 Ritz-Carlton 90.70 5 The Peninsula 90.61

1 Oberoi Udaivilas Udaipur 96.76 2 Oberoi Vanyavilas Ranthambhore 96.63 3 Oberoi Rajvilas Jaipur 95.45 4 Taj Lake Palace Udaipur 94.56 5 Oberoi Amarvilas Agra 94.19

1 Nihiwatu Sumba 98.35 2 St. Regis Bali Resort 96.22 3 W Retreat & Spa BaliSeminyak 93.60 4 The Oberoi Bali 93.24 5 Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan 92.74

1 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai, Thailand 96.00 2 Nam Hai Hoi An, Vietnam 95.63 3 Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, Thailand 95.33 4 Four Seasons Tented Camp Golden Triangle Chiang Rai, Thailand 95.17 5 Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, Thailand 94.35 6 Anantara Chiang Mai Resort Thailand 93.81 7 Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Thailand 92.87 8 Shangri-La’s Boracay Resort & Spa Philippines 92.73 9 Amanpuri Phuket, Thailand 92.00 10 Amantaka Luang Prabang, Laos 91.81

At the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, the lobby is on the highest floor—38 stories up.

READERS SAY... “Our only complaint about 137 Pillars House: we didn’t stay long enough.”

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

C O URT ESY OF M A N DAR IN ORI E N TA L H OTE L GR OUP

ASIA

WORLD’S BEST

Australia, New Zealand & the South Pacific SYDNEY REMAINS IN THE LEAD—AND A RESORT ON AN ISLAND ONCE OWNED BY MARLON BRANDO MAKES ITS DEBUT AT NO. 1.

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

TOP 5

Islands

City Hotels Australia & New Zealand

Resort Hotels Australia & New Zealand

1 Waiheke Island New Zealand 90.00 2 Great Barrier Reef Islands Australia 87.41 H 3 Moorea French Polynesia 87.08 4 Tasmania Australia 86.61 5 Palau 86.52

1 The Langham Melbourne 90.91 2 Park Hyatt Sydney 90.55 H 3 Grand Hyatt Melbourne 89.20 4 The Langham Sydney 88.85 5 Sir Stamford at Circular Quay Sydney 88.17

1 Huka Lodge Taupo, New Zealand 97.65 2 Southern Ocean Lodge Kangaroo Island, Australia 97.39 3 Farm at Cape Kidnappers Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand 95.33 4 Qualia Hamilton Island, Australia 94.89 5 Matakauri Lodge Queenstown, New Zealand 93.74

C O U RTESY OF TH E BRA N D O. OP P OS IT E : C H A D E H L E RS / G E T TY IM AG ES

At The Brando, in French Polynesia, spa treatments take place in the “birdhouse.”

On hot days, the arch of Sydney Harbour Bridge, opened in 1932, increases by up to 18 centimeters.

TOP 5

Cities

1 Sydney 87.27 H 2 Queenstown New Zealand 86.13 3 Melbourne 84.03 H 4 Wellington New Zealand 83.16 5 Hobart Australia 82.99

TOP 5

Resort Hotels The South Pacific

1 The Brando Tetiaroa, French Polynesia 96.80 2 Four Seasons Resort Bora-Bora, French Polynesia 93.68 3 St. Regis Bora Bora Resort French Polynesia 91.19 4 InterContinental Bora Bora Resort & Thalasso Spa French Polynesia 90.42 5 InterContinental Moorea Resort & Spa French Polynesia 88.14

READERS SAY... “On a blue-skies day, sailing across Sydney Harbour and looking back at the Opera House and Harbour Bridge is magical.”

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

WORLD’S BEST

Europe

Florence has been Europe’s best city for 10 of the past 11 years.

TOP 10

TOP 5

TOP 10

Cities

Islands

City Hotels

1 Florence 89.85 H 2 Barcelona 89.60 H 3 Rome 89.22 H 4 San Sebastián Spain 88.75 5 Krakow Poland 88.72 6 Seville Spain 88.27 7 Budapest 88.05 H 8 Siena Italy 87.98 9 Istanbul 87.89 H 10 Venice 87.61

1 Ischia Italy 90.22 2 Santorini Greece 89.07 H 3 Sicily Italy 86.63 4 Madeira Portugal 86.50 5 Ionian Islands (Corfu rated separately) Greece 85.54

1 41 London 95.94 2 Milestone Hotel London 95.32 3 La Réserve Paris Hotel, Spa & Apartments 95.29 4 The Goring London 95.19 5 Le Bristol Paris 95.06 6 Villa Cora Florence 95.04 7 The Lanesborough London 94.87 8 Egerton House Hotel London 94.86 9 Aria Hotel Budapest 94.44 10 Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam 94.04

TOP 10

Trend

BOUTIQUE LONDON Though London doesn’t crack your top 10 cities, half of the top European city hotels are in the U.K. capital—and they’re not the usual suspects. This year’s winners tended to be smaller and less well-known, while still offering the plush surroundings, impeccable locations, and polished service one expects from the best British addresses.

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

Resort Hotels

1 Hotel Castello di Casole—A Timbers Resort Casole d’Elsa, Italy 97.01 2 Alpina Gstaad Gstaad, Switzerland 96.00 2 Beau-Rivage Palace Lausanne, Switzerland 96.00

2 Brenners ParkHotel & Spa Baden-Baden, Germany 96.00 5 Katikies Hotel Santorini, Greece 95.95 6 Ashford Castle County Mayo, Ireland 95.84 7 Hotel Santa Caterina Amalfi, Italy 95.57 8 J.K. Place Capri, Italy 95.46 9 Gleneagles Hotel Perthshire, Scotland 95.08 10 Palazzo Avino Ravello, Italy 94.42

V I VI A N E PON TI / G E T T Y I MAG ES

OUR EXPANDED CITY AND COUNTRY HOTEL LISTS MEAN EVEN MORE INSPIRATION FOR PLANNING AN EXTRAORDINARY EUROPEAN GETAWAY.

TOP 10

Hotels Paris

1 La Réserve Paris Hotel, Spa & Apartments 95.29 2 Le Bristol 95.06 3 Four Seasons Hotel George V 93.12 4 Shangri-La Hotel 92.80 5 The Ritz 92.25 6 The Peninsula 92.15

7 Hôtel Barrière Le Fouquet’s 91.53 8 Hôtel Prince de Galles, a Luxury Collection Hotel 90.95 9 Mandarin Oriental 90.52 10 Hôtel Plaza Athénée 90.51

READERS SAY... “If only I could live as well at home as at La Réserve.”

TOP 5

TOP 10

Hotels Rome

Hotels London

1 J.K. Place Roma 93.16 2 Hotel de Russie 92.51 3 Hassler Roma 91.63 4 Villa Spalletti Trivelli 89.88 5 Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts 88.86

1 41 95.94 2 Milestone Hotel 95.32 3 The Goring 95.19 4 The Lanesborough 94.87 5 Egerton House Hotel 94.86 6 Chesterfield Mayfair 92.06

7 Corinthia Hotel 92.00 8 The Savoy 91.43 9 The Beaumont 90.67 10 Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane 90.65

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

Katikies Hotel’s location on a cliff in Santorini makes for spectacular sunsets.

TOP 5

Resort Hotels Italy

1 Hotel Castello di Casole—A Timbers Resort Casole d’Elsa 97.01 2 Hotel Santa Caterina Amalfi 95.57 3 J.K. Place Capri 95.46 4 Palazzo Avino Ravello 94.42 5 Belmond Hotel Splendido Portofino 93.83

TOP 5

Resort Hotels France

1 L’Hostellerie de Levernois Burgundy 92.44 2 Villa Gallici Aix-en-Provence 92.00 3 Château de la Chèvre d’Or Côte d’Azur 91.78 4 Hôtel de la Cité Carcassonne 91.50 5 Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, a Four Seasons Hotel Côte d’Azur 89.62

TOP 5

Resort Hotels United Kingdom & Ireland

1 Ashford Castle County Mayo, Ireland 95.84 2 Gleneagles Hotel Perthshire, Scotland 95.08

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

3 Trump International Golf Links & Hotel County Clare, Ireland 94.06 4 Cliveden House Taplow, England 93.87 5 Inverlochy Castle Torlundy, Scotland 93.00

TOP 5

Resort Hotels Greece

1 Katikies Hotel Santorini 95.95 2 Blue Palace, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Crete 92.80 3 Canaves Oia Santorini 92.68 4 Mystique, a Luxury Collection Hotel Santorini 92.17 5 Elounda Beach Hotel & Villas Crete 88.00

TOP 3

Resort Hotels Spain & Portugal

1 Penha Longa Resort Sintra, Portugal 91.13 2 Convento do Espinheiro, a Luxury Collection Hotel & Spa Évora, Portugal 90.22 3 Marbella Club Hotel, Golf Resort & Spa Marbella, Spain 89.27

C O U RTESY OF K ATI K IES HOT E L

WORLD’S BEST

Charleston is ranked the No. 1 American city for the fifth year in a row.

Continental United States

TOP 10

Cities

Islands

1 Charleston South Carolina 91.66 H 2 New Orleans 89.75 3 Savannah Georgia 89.57 4 Santa Fe New Mexico 87.27 H 5 Nashville 85.09 6 San Francisco 85.09 H 7 Chicago 84.85 H 8 New York City 84.82 H 9 Austin Texas 84.57 10 Asheville North Carolina 84.49

1 Hilton Head South Carolina 88.35 2 Kiawah Island South Carolina 88.00 3 Mount Desert Island Maine 86.48 4 Nantucket Massachusetts 84.60 5 San Juan Islands Washington 84.33

6 Golden Isles (Jekyll Island, Little St. Simons Island, Sea Island, St. Simons Island) Georgia 83.47 7 Florida Keys 83.44 8 Cumberland Island Georgia 83.33 9 Mackinac Island Michigan 82.86 10 Martha’s Vineyard Massachusetts 81.19

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

TOP 15

City Hotels

1 Spectator Hotel Charleston, South Carolina 97.78 2 XV Beacon Boston 96.27 3 The Surrey New York City 95.37 4 Greenwich Hotel New York City 94.76 5 The Knickerbocker New York City 94.75 6 River Inn of Harbor Town Memphis, Tennessee 94.71

7 Old No. 77 Hotel & Chandlery New Orleans 94.26 8 The Langham Chicago 94.21 9 Alfond Inn Orlando Area, Florida 94.12 10 Hotel Vintage Seattle 94.12 11 Rosewood (formerly the Capella) Washington, D.C. 94.04 12 The Hay-Adams Washington, D.C. 94.03 13 Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago 94.03 14 Mokara Hotel & Spa San Antonio, Texas 93.89 15 French Quarter Inn Charleston, South Carolina 93.89

READERS SAY... “Hollywood and New York design meets Lowcountry charm at the Spectator. The bar is the best in Charleston right now, and the butlers are wish-granting genies—without coming out of a bottle.”

T E T RA I MAG ES / G E T TY IM AG ES

HOTELS WITH DISTINCTIVE PERSONALITIES TAKE THE SPOTLIGHT—AND A NEWCOMER DEBUTS AS THE TOP CITY PROPERTY.

WORDS FROM A WINNER

THE SURREY

C O U RTESY OF TH E LO D GE AT G L E N D O RN

Luxe nature resort The Lodge at Glendorn in Pennsylvania is an old-school family camp.

TOP 10

TOP 5

Resort Hotels

Hotels New York City

Hotels Greater Los Angeles

Resort Hotels Northeast

1 The Lodge at Glendorn Bradford, Pennsylvania 97.38 2 The Willcox Aiken, South Carolina 97.25 3 Twin Farms Barnard, Vermont 97.19 4 Farmhouse Inn Forestville, California 97.07 5 Gateway Canyons Resort & Spa Gateway, Colorado 97.00 6 Château du Sureau Oakhurst, California 96.77 7 Triple Creek Ranch Darby, Montana 96.76 8 Wequassett Resort & Golf Club Chatham, Massachusetts 96.68 9 Old Edwards Inn & Spa Highlands, North Carolina 96.67 10 Weekapaug Inn Westerly, Rhode Island 96.67

1 The Surrey 95.37 2 Greenwich Hotel 94.76 3 The Knickerbocker 94.75 4 Trump International Hotel & Tower 92.78 5 Refinery Hotel 92.46 6 WestHouse 92.35 7 St. Regis 92.26 8 The James 92.16 9 The Lowell 92.06 10 The Chatwal, a Luxury Collection Hotel 91.84

1 The Redbury Hollywood 93.14 2 Petit Ermitage West Hollywood 93.02 3 Mr. C Beverly Hills 92.43 4 The Peninsula Beverly Hills 90.92 5 Montage Beverly Hills 90.67

1 The Lodge at Glendorn Bradford, Pennsylvania 97.38 2 Twin Farms Barnard, Vermont 97.19 3 Wequassett Resort & Golf Club Chatham, Massachusetts 96.68 4 Weekapaug Inn Westerly, Rhode Island 96.67 5 Chanler at Cliff Walk Newport, Rhode Island 95.51

TOP 3

Hotels Washington, D.C.

1 Rosewood 94.04 2 The Hay-Adams 94.03 3 The Jefferson 93.75

TOP 5

Hotels Chicago

1 The Langham 94.21 2 Trump International Hotel & Tower 94.03 3 Waldorf Astoria 92.88 4 The Peninsula 92.61 5 Godfrey Hotel 92.31

TOP 5

Resort Hotels Midwest

1 Big Cedar Lodge Ridgedale, Missouri 93.59 2 Sundara Inn & Spa Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin 92.18 3 American Club at Destination Kohler Kohler, Wisconsin 91.05 4 Grand Hotel Mackinac Island, Michigan 88.78 5 West Baden Springs Hotel West Baden Springs, Indiana 86.42

o. 1 New York hotel The Surrey is known for its focus on art. We asked Natasha Schlesinger, art expert in residence, to share her favorite art spots in the city: Fresh Takes “The Park Avenue Armory has made an effort to be edgier and more engaging, while still respecting the building’s grandeur. They’re bringing in artists who are known by connoisseurs but not necessarily by the general public, such as Martin Creed, who has an immersive piece on view through early August.” Downtown Digs “The Whitney Museum’s new building is breathtaking with its open spaces and high ceilings. The portrait exhibition taking place includes artists like Andy Warhol and Chuck Close, and feels so relevant—it’s about the self in today’s world of social media.” High Society “The roof at the Metropolitan Museum of Art has the most fantastical installations, and there’s a bar that serves cocktails. Right now you can see a spooky partial house that British artist Cornelia Parker created, inspired by Alfred Hitchcock.”

FPO

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

WORLD’S BEST

TOP 5

TOP 15

Islands

Resort Hotels

1 Maui 88.55 H 2 Kauai 88.33 H 3 Big Island 86.17 H 4 Oahu 84.84 5 Lanai 81.06

1 Montage Kapalua Bay Maui 97.39 2 Halekulani Honolulu 93.86 H 3 Four Seasons Resort Hualalai Big Island 93.26 H 4 Ko’a Kea Hotel & Resort Kauai 92.44 5 Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea 92.05 H 6 Fairmont Kea Lani Maui 91.67 H 7 Turtle Bay Resort Oahu 91.65 8 Four Seasons Resort Lanai 91.52 H 9 Hotel Wailea Maui 91.30 10 Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua Maui 90.83 11 Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa 90.59 12 Fairmont Orchid Big Island 89.85 13 Kahala Hotel & Resort Honolulu 89.72 14 Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort Honolulu 88.85 15 Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort 88.71

The Sunset Pool at Montage Kapalua Bay cascades down three levels to the Pacific.

TOP 5

Resort Hotels South

Resort Hotels Florida

Resort Hotels West

Resort Hotels California

1 The Willcox Aiken, South Carolina 97.25 2 Old Edwards Inn & Spa Highlands, North Carolina 96.67 3 Lodge at Sea Island Georgia 95.90 4 Lodge & Cottages at Primland Meadows of Dan, Virginia 95.87 5 Cloister at Sea Island Georgia 95.16

1 Gasparilla Inn & Club Boca Grande 95.76 2 Acqualina, Miami Sunny Isles Beach 95.53 3 Biltmore Hotel Coral Gables 95.32 4 Metropolitan by COMO Miami Beach 94.36 5 Sandpearl Resort Clearwater Beach 93.86

1 Gateway Canyons Resort & Spa Gateway, Colorado 97.00 2 Triple Creek Ranch Darby, Montana 96.76 3 Tu Tu’tun Lodge Gold Beach, Oregon 95.06 4 Sonnenalp Hotel Vail, Colorado 95.04 5 Amangani Jackson, Wyoming 94.43

1 Farmhouse Inn Forestville 97.07 2 Château du Sureau Oakhurst 96.77 3 Rosewood Sand Hill Menlo Park 96.00 4 Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa Rancho Santa Fe 95.69 5 Brewery Gulch Inn Mendocino 95.59

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

READERS SAY... “We’ve visited Maui on seven of our last 10 trips to the islands. It has everything we want: fabulous beaches, breathtaking waterfall hikes, and great roads for cycling.”

C O U RTESY OF MON TAG E K A PA LUA BAY. O PP O SI T E : JI M Z UC K E RMA N / G E T T YI MAG ES

Hawaii

Mexico & Central & South America THE GALÁPAGOS TOPS THE ISLAND CATEGORY FOR THE 13TH CONSECUTIVE YEAR.

TOP 10

TOP 5

Cities

City Hotels Central & South America

Resort Hotels Central America

1 San Miguel de Allende Mexico 91.19 2 Cuzco Peru 88.96 H 3 Oaxaca Mexico 88.56 4 Mexico City 86.63 5 Mérida Mexico 86.29 6 Antigua Guatemala 85.92 7 Mendoza Argentina 85.37 8 Guadalajara Mexico 85.30 9 Bogotá Colombia 82.79 10 Buenos Aires 82.72 H

1 Casa Gangotena Quito, Ecuador 97.20 2 Hotel B Lima, Peru 94.46 3 Alvear Palace Hotel Buenos Aires 94.40 H 4 Alvear Art Hotel Buenos Aires 93.21 5 Belmond Palacio Nazarenas Cuzco, Peru 93.12 6 JW Marriott El Convento Cuzco, Peru 92.91 7 Belmond Hotel Monasterio Cuzco, Peru 91.26 H 8 Belmond Copacabana Palace Rio de Janeiro 91.15 9 Four Seasons Hotel Buenos Aires 90.71 H 10 Inkaterra La Casona Cuzco, Peru 90.67

1 Nayara Springs Arenal Volcano National Park, Costa Rica 96.36 2 Nayara Hotel, Spa & Gardens Arenal Volcano National Park, Costa Rica 95.91 3 Matachica Resort & Spa Ambergris Cay, Belize 93.78 3 Casa Palopó Atitlán, Guatemala 93.78 5 Turtle Inn Placencia, Belize 92.79

TOP 3 Readers rave about San Miguel—seen here from the rooftop of the Rosewood hotel.

WINNER’S CIRCLE

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

an Miguel de Allende is known for its colonial churches and charming hotels—but not for modern sizzle. Now an intriguing food scene is changing that, led by Enrique Olvera’s globally inspired hot spot Moxi. In April, French-Canadian expat Gilles Vachon opened Mon Bistro, which offers beef bourguignon, coq au vin, and live music. Mercado Centro is a grown-up food court—there are lamb meatballs at Los Meatballs and chicken potpies and pulled-pork sandwiches at Soul Kitchen. The new La Galería is reminiscent of a 1940s music club; Spanish bites are served alongside cocktails like the signature La Galería, with vanilla-infused tequila and pineapple juice, delivered en fuego.

Islands

1 Galápagos Islands Ecuador 87.42 H 2 Isla Mujeres Mexico 83.44 3 Easter Island Chile 82.74

TOP 5

Resort Hotels South America

TOP 3

City Hotels Mexico

1 St. Regis Mexico City 92.54 2 Las Alcobas, a Luxury Collection Hotel Mexico City 91.20 3 Four Seasons Hotel Mexico City 89.90

1 Singular Patagonia Puerto Bories, Chile 97.14 2 Cavas Wine Lodge Mendoza, Argentina 96.99 3 Sol y Luna Sacred Valley, Peru 96.36 4 Tambo del Inka, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Sacred Valley, Peru 95.11 5 Tierra Patagonia Hotel & Spa Torres del Paine National Park, Chile 93.44

TOP 10

Resort Hotels Mexico

1 Rosewood Mayakoba Playa del Carmen 96.39 2 Las Ventanas al Paraíso, A Rosewood Resort San José del Cabo 95.81 3 Zamas Hotel Tulum 95.49 4 La Casa Que Canta Zihuatanejo 94.96 5 Resort at Pedregal Cabo San Lucas 94.52 6 One&Only Palmilla Los Cabos 94.14 H 7 Rosewood San Miguel de Allende 94.12 8 Grand Velas Riviera Maya Playa del Carmen 93.73 9 Mahekal Beach Resort Playa del Carmen 93.58 10 Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita 93.56 H

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

The boulder formations of the Baths are a big draw on Virgin Gorda.

WORLD’S BEST

Canada IT’S A TALE OF EAST AND WEST, WITH BRITISH COLUMBIA AND QUEBEC PREVAILING.

KAMALAME CAY TAKES FIRST PLACE, WHILE OTHER BELOVED SPOTS CONTINUE TO MAKE THE GRADE. TOP 5

TOP 25

Islands

Resort Hotels

1 Virgin Gorda British Virgin Islands 84.98 2 Harbour Island Bahamas 84.64 3 Anguilla 84.40 4 Exuma Bahamas 84.38 5 St. John U.S. Virgin Islands 83.55

READERS SAY... “Kamalame is the epitome of island chic.”

1 Kamalame Cay Andros, Bahamas 96.30 2 Curtain Bluff Antigua 95.40 3 Jade Mountain St. Lucia 94.85 4 The House Barbados 94.70 5 Round Hill Hotel & Villas Montego Bay, Jamaica 94.26 6 Somerset on Grace Bay Turks and Caicos 93.61 7 Ladera St. Lucia 93.26 8 GoldenEye Oracabessa, Jamaica 92.50 9 Jamaica Inn Ocho Rios, Jamaica 92.35

10 Eden Rock St. Bart’s 91.94 11 Secret Bay Resort Dominica 91.89 12 Capella Marigot Bay Resort & Marina St. Lucia 91.78 13 Anse Chastanet Resort St. Lucia 91.45 14 Jumby Bay, A Rosewood Resort Antigua 91.44 15 Sandals LaSource Grenada Resort & Spa Grenada 91.42 16 Grace Bay Club Turks and Caicos 91.37 17 Nisbet Plantation Beach Club Nevis 91.26 18 Dorado Beach, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve Puerto Rico 91.15 19 Colony Club Barbados 91.04

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

TOP 5

City Hotels

1 Quebec City 86.91 H 2 Vancouver 85.02 3 Victoria British Columbia 84.98

1 Wedgewood Hotel & Spa Vancouver 93.75 2 Rosewood Hotel Georgia Vancouver 92.20 3 Trump International Hotel & Tower Toronto 90.80 4 Ritz-Carlton Montreal 90.09 5 Shangri-La Hotel Vancouver 89.70

TOP 3 20 Petit St. Vincent Island Resort St. Vincent and the Grenadines 90.96 21 Christopher Hotel, Villas & Spa St. Bart’s 90.88 22 Reefs Resort & Club Bermuda 90.76 H 23 Zoëtry Agua Punta Cana, Dominican Republic 90.67 24 Parrot Cay by COMO Turks and Caicos 90.65 25 The Palms Turks and Caicos 90.61

Islands

TOP 5 1 Vancouver Island British Columbia 85.22 2 Prince Edward Island 82.75 3 Cape Breton Island Nova Scotia 82.29

Resort Hotels

1 Manoir Hovey North Hatley, Quebec 96.93 2 Fogo Island Inn Newfoundland 95.60 3 Wickaninnish Inn Tofino, British Columbia 92.08 H 4 Four Seasons Resort & Residences Whistler, British Columbia 91.01 5 Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise Alberta 89.18

The Caribbean, Bermuda & the Bahamas

TOP 3

Cities

Top safari property Singita Grumeti occupies 142,000 hectares of preserve in Tanzania.

TOP 10

Safari Lodges Africa

Africa & the Middle East

C OU RT ESY O F S ING ITA G R U M E TI

THE SEYCHELLES MAKE A COMEBACK, TOPPING THE ISLANDS LIST FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE 2007. TOP 5

TOP 3

Cities

Islands

1 Cape Town 89.46 H 2 Beirut Lebanon 89.00 3 Jerusalem 88.07 H 4 Tel Aviv 84.63 5 Marrakesh Morocco 84.55

1 Seychelles 83.69 2 Mauritius 78.55 3 Zanzibar Tanzania 78.00

TOP 10

City Hotels

1 Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa Johannesburg, South Africa 95.09 2 Cape Grace Cape Town 94.59 H

3 Madinat Jumeirah Dubai 94.32 4 Ellerman House Cape Town 93.88 5 One&Only Cape Town 93.83 6 Table Bay Cape Town 93.39

WINNER’S CIRCLE

SEYCHELLES ur readers have a long-distance love affair with the Seychelles, with its exquisite beaches and aquamarine waters. And there’s more to love than ever. This fall, the Six Senses Zil Pasyon will open on lush, private Félicité Island. Each of the 30 sleek villas has a sundeck and its own pool, and the

7 Emirates Palace Hotel Abu Dhabi 92.97 8 Ritz-Carlton Dubai 92.84 9 Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel Cape Town 91.95 10 Jumeirah at Etihad Towers Abu Dhabi 91.58

TOP 5

Resort Hotels

1 La Residence Franschhoek, South Africa 95.27 2 Le Quartier Français Franschhoek, South Africa 92.79 3 Four Seasons Resort Mahé, Seychelles 92.57 4 Delaire Graff Lodges & Spa Stellenbosch, South Africa 92.31 5 Beresheet Hotel Mitspe Ramon, Israel 91.24

1 Singita Grumeti Serengeti National Park Area, Tanzania 97.11 2 Londolozi Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 97.06 3 Singita Sabi Sand Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 96.95 H 4 Mombo Camp and Little Mombo Camp Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana 96.50 5 Tongabezi Lodge Livingstone, Zambia 96.20 6 Lion Sands Game Reserve Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 95.42 7 Madikwe Safari Lodge Madikwe Game Reserve, South Africa 94.96 8 Singita Kruger National Park South Africa 94.65 H 9 andBeyond Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp Masai Mara National Reserve, Kenya 94.50 10 andBeyond Kirkman’s Kamp Sabi Sand Game Reserve, South Africa 94.46

cliffside spa is big enough that you could spend an entire day meandering around its hammam, saltwater pool, and steam room. Fregate Island, home to exotic birds and giant tortoises, has redone its 16 villas (among the improvements: updated pools and upgraded Wi-Fi). The exclusive-use Cousine Island has added a Presidential Villa with two master bedrooms, a spa, infinity pool and full kitchen—the island now sleeps up to 12 adults, plus six children. And Carana Beach resort opened on Mahé in April with 40 airy villas—every one within steps of the soft beaches that are the whole point of the Seychelles.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

Singapore Changi Airport, a perennial winner, is efficient, ecofriendly and even entertaining.

WORLD’S BEST

SINGAPORE, THE NO. 1 INTERNATIONAL AIRLINE, HAS BEEN FLYING HIGH FOR 21 YEARS—IT’S THE ONLY COMPANY TO HOLD FIRST PLACE FOR THE WHOLE HISTORY OF THE WORLD’S BEST AWARDS.

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

TOP 10

TOP 5

International Airlines

International Airports

Car-Rental Companies

1 Singapore Airlines 90.10 H 2 Emirates 89.30 H 3 Qatar Airways 86.89 4 Etihad Airways 86.84 5 Virgin Atlantic Airways 86.41 H 6 Cathay Pacific Airways 85.53 H 7 Air New Zealand 84.58 8 Eva Air 84.39 9 Korean Air 84.30 10 Porter Airlines 84.01

1 Singapore Changi Airport 90.93 2 Dubai International Airport 84.52 3 Hong Kong International Airport 83.99 4 Incheon International Airport South Korea 82.96 5 Zurich Airport Switzerland 79.10

1 National Car Rental 80.97 H 2 Enterprise Rent-A-Car 78.89 H 3 Hertz 76.05 H 4 Avis Car Rental 76.02 H 5 Alamo 75.86

C O U RTESY OF C H A N G I AI R PO RT G R OUP

Transportation

Cruise Lines

C O U RTESY OF V IK I N G C RU I S ES

NEWCOMERS MAKE A SPLASH, TAKING TOP HONORS IN 2016. TOP 5

TOP 5

Mega-Ship Ocean Cruise Lines

Midsize-Ship Ocean Cruise Lines

1 Cunard 86.94 H 2 Disney Cruise Line 86.64 H 3 Princess Cruises 85.34 H 4 Celebrity Cruises 83.58 H 5 Royal Caribbean International 78.86 H

1 Paul Gauguin Cruises 94.61 2 Seabourn 93.72 H 3 Windstar Cruises 93.40 4 Ponant Yacht Cruises & Expeditions 93.20 5 Regent Seven Seas Cruises 90.23 H

TOP 10

TOP 5

Large-Ship Ocean Cruise Lines

Small-Ship Ocean Cruise Lines

1 Viking Cruises 95.03 2 Crystal Cruises 90.77 H 3 Regent Seven Seas Cruises 90.17 H 4 Cunard 87.79 H 5 Azamara Club Cruises 87.46 6 Oceania Cruises 87.18 H 7 Princess Cruises 85.66 H 8 Holland America Line 84.07 H 9 Celebrity Cruises 78.34 H 10 Royal Caribbean International 77.84 H

1 Australis 96.16 2 Quark Expeditions 93.96 3 Windstar Cruises 92.98 4 Grand Circle Cruise Line 92.46 5 SeaDream Yacht Club 92.40

TOP 5

River Cruise Lines

1 Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection 94.46 2 Tauck 94.42 3 Viking Cruises 93.83 4 Grand Circle Cruise Line 91.62 5 AmaWaterways 89.42

Viking Cruises’ first ocean ship, Viking Star, has a light, modern feel.

TREND

EXPEDITION CRUISING xpedition cruising, which involves smaller ships and adventurous itineraries, is having a moment. Australis and Quark Expeditions, which specialize in remote destinations, topped Small-Ship Ocean Cruise Lines for the first time, a sign that travelers appreciate trips that are both intrepid and comfortable. Here’s the lowdown on this up-and-coming category. The Ships Typically small (think 200 passengers, not 2,000) and able to anchor in smaller ports. Many have reinforced hulls for sailing icy waters. The Destinations Remote and bucket-list-worthy, like Australia’s Kimberley Coast, Antarctica and the Galápagos Islands. The Vibe Don’t expect margaritas by the pool—it’s all about getting off the ship and into the wild. Zodiac boats carry you to marine wildlife sanctuaries and icebergs. On board, you’re more likely to be offered science lectures than casino nights.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

WORLD’S BEST

Tours & Safaris

TOP 5

Safari Outfitters

IT PAYS TO SPECIALIZE: SMALL, FOCUSED COMPANIES—INCLUDING EXPERTS IN BIKING, WALKING AND WILDLIFE—ROSE TO THE TOP THIS YEAR.

1 Deeper Africa 99.43 2 Extraordinary Journeys 98.62 3 Micato Safaris 98.26 H 4 Rothschild Safaris 97.82 5 Ker & Downey 97.64

TOP 10

Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park is on Deeper Africa’s Conservation and Culture Safari.

WORDS FROM A WINNER

GRAY & CO.

ycling companies are perennial favorites in our tours category, but this is the first crown for Gray & Co., which specializes in creating customized trips for discerning clients. Cari Gray, who founded the company in 2009, shares her rules of the road for two-wheeled trips.

The most involved trip I’ve planned was: For a father and daughter who went all over Australia. He’s a prominent businessman, so they had four security guards with them. But he’s a really great dad—during the trip, he never looked at his phone. I always pack: Good sunglasses and sunscreen. These days it’s so convenient to take puffy jackets everywhere, because they fold up to nothing. I carry one as a blanket for my kid or just to sit on. My secret to traveling with children is: Midday travel whenever possible. If

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1 Gray & Co 98.14 2 Butterfield & Robinson 97.55 3 Artisans of Leisure 97.50 4 Mountain Lodges of Peru 97.44 5 Journeys International 97.22 6 Classic Journeys 97.15 7 Trek Travel 96.97 8 Cox & Kings 96.79 9 Absolute Travel 96.59 10 Thomson Family Adventures 96.44

you’re properly rested you can cope with anything. The hot touring spot right now is: Mallorca. There’s a highly developed tertiary road system because of the vineyards and olive groves. It has amazing hiking, great weather and beautiful places to stay. Anyone considering a biking tour should: Make sure they’re in shape for it. A lot of people are good in spin class but haven’t been on a real bike—they don’t know how to work the brakes or the gears. And it’s crucial to know how to balance.

O L A F OTTO B ECK E R

Tour Operators

First-time winner Mountain Trek is a sister property of Rancho La Puerta in Mexico.

Destination Spas PAMPERING IS ALWAYS POPULAR, BUT READERS REALLY RAVED ABOUT SPOTS THAT FOCUS ON HEALTH AND NATURE. TOP 5

International Spas

DAV I D R. G LU NS

1 Mountain Trek British Columbia 98.13 2 Rancho La Puerta Tecate, Mexico 96.64 H

Serta, World’s Best Mattress

Herman Miller Designer Work Chair

Eco-Friendly Appelles Toiletries

Smart HD LED TV

150Mbps Free WIFI

24 Hours Gymnasium

Infinity Pool

G Cycle

3 Tabacón Grand Spa Thermal Resort La Fortuna de San Carlos, Costa Rica 95.40 4 BodyHoliday LeSport Castries, St. Lucia 92.77 5 Maya Tulum Resort Tulum, Mexico 88.64

Free Shuttle to Batu Ferringhi on Friday & Saturday

READERS SAY... “Hikes were quite challenging at Mountain Trek. But climbing the mountain was a metaphor for a life journey, and I gained compassion for myself.”

Cross Usage & Signing Facilities Between Both Hotels

Airline Partner

WORLD’S BEST

Methodology HOW WE CONDUCT THE WORLD’S BEST AWARDS

A survey developed by the editors of Travel + Leisure, in association with digital marketing firm Wylei, was made available at tlworldsbest.com/intl from November 2, 2015, to February 29, 2016. Readers were invited to participate through Travel + Leisure magazine, T+L tablet editions, newsletters, social media and travelandleisure.com. Wylei maintained, monitored, and kept the survey website secure, and also collected and tabulated the responses. To protect the integrity of the data, after the survey closed, Travel + Leisure and Wylei screened the responses to identify fraudulent votes, which were eliminated from the final result tallies. Respondents were asked to rate airlines, airports, car-rental agencies, cities, cruise ships, destination spas, hotels, hotel brands, islands, tour operators, CATEGORIES AND CHARACTERISTICS and safari outfitters on a number of characteristics (see right). For each characteristic, respondents could Airlines Cabin comfort, choose a rating of excellent, above average, average, in-flight service, below average or poor. The final scores are indexed customer service, value. averages of these responses. In most categories, Airports Access, respondents could also rate optional characteristics; check-in/security, these ratings are not included in the overall scores. restaurants/bars, shopping, design. Hotels were categorized as City or Resort Car-rental agencies based on their locations, not on the features of Vehicle selection, any individual property. For resort hotels, the vehicle availability, U.S. was divided into seven regions: California, car-rental location, Florida, Hawaii, Midwest (Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, service, value. Kansas, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, Cities Sights/ landmarks, culture, North Dakota, Ohio, South Dakota, Wisconsin), food, friendliness, Northeast (Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, shopping, value. Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Cruise ships Cabins/ New York, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, facilities, food, Washington, D.C.), South (Alabama, Arkansas, service, itineraries/ destinations, excursions/ Georgia, Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi, North activities, value. Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee, Destination spas Texas, Virginia, West Virginia), and West (Alaska, Accommodations/ Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, Montana, Nevada, New facilities, treatments, Mexico, Oregon, Utah, Washington, Wyoming). service, food, value. For the cruise category, respondents were asked Hotels Rooms/ facilities, location, to rate individual ships; the results were combined service, food, value. to generate scores for cruise lines in diﬀerent Hotel brands categories. The categories are: river cruise lines, Locations, rooms/ mega-ship ocean cruise lines (capacity of 2,000 facilities, food, passengers or more), large-ship ocean cruise lines service, value. (600 to 1,999 passengers), midsize-ship ocean cruise Islands Natural attractions/beaches, lines (250 to 599 passengers), and small-ship ocean activities/sights, cruise lines (249 or fewer passengers). Some cruise restaurants/ lines may appear in multiple categories depending on food, people/ the makeup of their fleet. friendliness, value. A minimum number of responses was necessary Tour operators and safari outfitters for a candidate to be eligible for inclusion in the Staff/guides, itineraries/ World’s Best Awards rankings. Some companies were destinations, activities, eligible to be rated in multiple categories; they were accommodations, food, value. scored independently for each category.

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In celebration of HM Queen Sirikit’s 7th cycle Birthday Acclaimed as one of the three leading classical ballet companies in Germany. ³1XWFUDFNHU´ LV D PDJQL¿FHQW ZRUN E\ WKH 6WDWH %DOOHW RI .DUOVUXKH $Q HODERUDWH SURGXFWLRQ ZLKW VWXQLQJ VHWV DQG GHFRUDWLRQV

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Supported by Embassy of Germany Thai Union Group and SAP Systems

Saturday 8 October (7.30pm), Sunday 9 October (2.30pm) Baht 3,500 / 2,800 / 2,200 / 1,500 / 1,000 France’s leading contemporary ballet company, Ballet Preljocaj, performs a romantic and contemporary retelling of Romeo and Juliet. Receiving &KRUHRJUDSK\ $ZDUGHG DW WKH ³9LFWRLUHV GH OD 0XVLTXH´ LQ

ROMEO & JULIET Ballet rel

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Supported by the Embassy of France and BNP Paribas

Wednesday 12 October (7.30pm) Hotline 02 262 3191

www.thaiticketmajor.com (24 hrs)

www.bangkokfestivals.com

Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800

VENUE: Thailand Cultural Centre. Free shuttle from MRT station Thailand Cultural Centre, Exit 1, during 5.30-7.00pm

IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER

A dormant volcano forms the heart of Bora Bora.

/ AUGUST 2016 / The contradictory universe of Mongoliaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shiny

capital and the beautiful nothingness beyond | Journeys into the inland wilds of French Polynesia | How London is remaking Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cross into an urban oasis

A monk at Bulgan Temple, a Buddhist retreat in the Gobi Desert. OPPOSITE: Horses near the village of Bulgan.

The future has arrived in Mongolia, both in the high-rises of its capital, Ulaanbataar, and in the vast emptiness beyond. PICO IYER finds a country that is moving ahead by embracing modernity and rediscovering its own history.

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THE GREAT WIDE OPEN PHO T O GR A PHS BY F R EDER IC L AGR A NGE

A view from the luxury resort Three Camel Lodge, in the Gobi Desert.

T H E B U D D H A were living now, i think H E W O U L D

use social media,” said Baasan Lama, the fresh-faced abbot of Erdene Zuu, Mongolia’s oldest monastery. He flashed a luminous smile. “I already have a Facebook page.” From the folds of his thick red-and-gold robes, he pulled a small book he had published four months earlier that offers 108 tips for right action in a scattered world. “Short,” he told me, in no-nonsense English. “People don’t like to read long books these days!” Visitors from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia’s boomtown capital, kept bundling into the small room where I was sitting with the Hamba Lama Baasansuren, as he is officially known, to receive his blessings and teachings. Not many minutes earlier, in the 17th-century whitewashed prayer hall next door, I’d listened to him lead chants while younger monks pounded drums. The bulging-eyed black demons on the walls, the red-and-gold benches, the fragrance of juniper incense, and the flickering rows of candles and butter lamps all made me feel as if I were in Tibet. The complex contained temples that looked Chinese and gers (the domed white felt huts also known as yurts) with chapels inside. A brick wall surrounded it, mounted with 108 tall, white stupas that seemed to ward off the emptiness of the Orkhon Valley, once the center of the Turkic, Uighur, and Mongol empires and now a unesco World Heritage site. Erdene Zuu, locals had told me, stands on the ruins of Karakorum, the city that Genghis Khan’s son Ögödei built in 1235. Driving here across unending grassland, I’d seen only a handful of lonely white gers against the wide horizon and a few crop-circle gatherings of goats beside Bronze Age burial mounds. Though Baasan Lama is only 37, he has spent the past 24 years in the temple, having taken on robes after his country emerged from 70 years of Soviet-imposed atheism. Now the strapping lama was presenting me with a sleekly produced CD he’d released to go with his book, featuring sing-along Buddhist chants that had become instant hits with the iPhone-tapping, Lexus-driving, sushi-and-Gucci movers of Ulaanbaatar. As two “monklets” offered us cups of fermented mare’s milk and bowls of noodles with thick beef, the lama continued his impromptu discourse. “I’ve read the Bible,” he said. “And the Koran. I think that if Jesus and Mohammed and the Buddha were alive now, they would be good friends.” This was music to my ears. I’d come to Mongolia to see how its fervent, sometimes boisterous brand of

Himalayan Buddhism is bursting into fresh life, in contrast to the steadier and more sober variants I have witnessed in Tibet and Bhutan and Ladakh and have come to know during more than four decades of talking and traveling with the 14th Dalai Lama. I also wanted to see how traditional Mongolian culture had been surviving the country’s furious development since the discovery of vast copper and gold reserves. Without realizing it, the monk was addressing both my interests—his country’s changeless nomadism and its homegrown globalism. After lunch, Baasan Lama took me, in a friend’s car, on a jouncing, 45-minute drive up into the mountains. Near the top, on a crag overlooking the spacious folds of the valley, we came to a simple two-room retreat he’d built. Its stucco walls had been licked bare by animals hungry for salt. We sat on the floor and he whipped out a purple iPod and a Bluetooth speaker, then asked me what kind of meditation I favored. Unfazed by my silence, he chose one from the dozens he knows. After leading me in chants, he delivered a brief talk on the necessity of saying thank you to life.

T O G E T T O E R D E N E Z U U , one has to pass through

Ulaanbaatar, a high-rise metropolis that sits incongruously within an encircling nothingness, like Lower Manhattan surrounded by South Dakota. Half of Mongolia’s 3 million inhabitants live in and around the city, the other half in the almost unchanged countryside. As I left Chinggis Khaan International Airport, I saw matrons throwing milk to the heavens, the traditional gesture of thanking the gods for a trip safely completed. As we drove past gaudy shopping malls and construction sites, my guide, Baatarnyam Navaansharav, who calls himself Baagi, explained that the country’s largest gold reserve, the source of its latest hopes and luxuries, had been discovered near a place long honored by Buddhists as an energy center. I stepped through the scented lobby of the 21-story Shangri-La Hotel, which opened last June, and ascended to my sleek room, where I could see quiet, dusty Chojin Lama Temple far below, hidden among skyscrapers like a grandmother’s amulet dropped among boulders. Mongolia today seems to be looking forward and backward at the same time. Since the country gained its freedom in 1990, after the collapse of the Soviet Union, it has embraced globalism, while also rediscovering its pastoral culture. Ancestral traditions, Buddhism in particular, came back into the open after having been TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

sustained mostly in secret for the better part of a century. In the past decade the explosion of the mining industry has resulted in one of the highest GDP growth rates in the world. Parts of Ulaanbaatar now look like the love child of Shanghai and Las Vegas. The city’s streets, where only a generation ago wolves and wild dogs roamed, are today clogged with 700,000 cars, inching past glass towers and giant screens projecting footage of runway models. My first night, I came upon a Louis Vuitton outlet amid the ghostly Soviet monuments of the central square. Nearby, numbers from the New York Stock Exchange flashed across several stories of a high-rise. I’d heard that on the day the store opened, in 2009, it had moved a dozen US$94,000 steamer trunks. As I ventured on, I passed places actually called Rich Centre and Million Dollar Club. Teenagers, sporting earbuds and shades, listened to the thumping rhythms of Gee, a local hip-hop star. When I watched the astonishing throat singers and contortionists of the Mongolian National Song & Dance Ensemble, I was only half taken aback to hear an orchestral version of Queen’s “We Are the Champions.” One afternoon I was lucky enough to get a private viewing of the treasure room of the National Library, a reminder of the cosmopolitanism that has distinguished Mongolia for centuries. Its rulers once conquered more than twice as many people as any other empire in history, bringing the treasures of everywhere back to their landlocked home: Sutras written in gold leaf. Astronomical charts from before the time of Gutenberg. Sacred texts composed by the fifth Dalai Lama. A “family tree” in the form of an exploding star, with Genghis Khan at its red-hot center. Hours later, I returned to the 21st-century version of the empire: a stylish new development in the affluent Zaisan district known as Buddha Vista, before crossing the street to enjoy a remarkably tasty “Tex-Mex” pizza at the rooftop restaurant Terrazza Zaisan. Despite Ulaanbaatar’s runaway development, more than half its residents live in very basic gers surrounding it, as if the grasslands were waiting to swallow up the blue-tinted towers. In the old Soviet-built State Department Store, I saw pieces of jewelry selling for US$45,000 (five years’ salary for a typical Mongolian). I learned also that as the Soviet influence fades, the elegant Mongolian script used for centuries is coming back into schools, replacing Cyrillic. Somehow, modernity and tradition have found a way to sustain one another.

L E S S T H A N A N H O U R after leaving Ulaanbaatar,

accompanied by Baagi, his boss, and a driver, I was looking upon great swaths of pure color, sometimes lavender, sometimes topaz. We stopped and got out of the car amid a ringing, pulsing silence. I walked past sheep skulls, trampled prayer flags, and ceremonial blue scarves marking out Har Bulch, or “Black Bull’s ruin,” an eighth-century Uighur Buddhist temple. Wind whipped across the ruins as upland buzzards perched on shaman stones. In the distance, pastures shimmered like salt flats. Beyond lay nothing but blue-black peaks.

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It is hard to appreciate, before arriving, just how silent and empty Mongolia is. You may learn that a population the size of greater Taipei is scattered across an area the size of Western Europe. But you have to go there to feel the absences. You may hear that more people visit Kyoto in a day than come to Mongolia in a year. But you don’t know what quiet is until you’ve realized it’s more shocking to see another car than to come upon 90 Bactrian camels sitting placidly in your red-dirt track. One member of my party told me that, in his language, there are hundreds of words for the coloring of horses. Another remarked that a herd of 250,000 gazelles had been spotted here not long before. It is Mongolia’s rare fortune to suggest another planet tucked within our own. Bird-watchers come for the falcons, white herons, black storks, and cranes that suddenly take flight over noiseless rivers. Others come during the first weekend in October for the golden eagle festival in the west, at which traditional Kazakh hunters

Ulaanbaatar is a metropolis that sits incongruously within an encircling

NOTHINGNESS: LOWER MANHATTAN IN SOUTH DAKOTA

FROM TOP RIGHT: Villagers in Uureg Nuur, in northwestern Mongolia; the Shangri-La lobby; a view of the Choijin Lama Temple from the Shangri-La Hotel, Ulaanbaatar; nomadic life in Uureg Nuur.

demonstrate the hunting abilities of their great birds. Some fish for taimen in the north. For me, it was enough just to bump for hours through a Rothko landscape with black kites winging through the sharp blue skies, the expanse of green in every direction broken only by an occasional single white droplet in the distance—a ger with a solar panel, a satellite dish, and a white Toyota beside it. Some people in the interior, my guides told me, had only recently seen a banana, and could hardly imagine anyone consuming chicken or fish (“insects,” as they see them), let alone vegetables. (“Our animals eat grass,” they’re liable to say, “and we eat our animals.”) Bubonic plague is still known in some parts. (“If you see a dying marmot,” my Bradt guidebook alerted me, “steer away.”) Yet the ingenuity that once allowed Mongolia to seize every land from the Pacific to the Mediterranean is everywhere apparent. Nomads make satellite dishes out of old CDs. When mobile-phone reception comes to certain mountaintop areas, locals are known to push send, fling their devices up to catch the signal, and then grab them as they come down again. Finally, we came to Ongiin Hiid. Once a monastic city with a four-figure population, it was devastated by the Soviet purges of the 1930s. Only a few traces remain, surrounded by the Ongiin Nuuts Ger Camp. A lama invited us into his ger among the broken stones and passed out some snuﬀ, then strips of raw meat from a large white basin. In a few minutes, he told us, he was expecting an important group of lamas—a sign, perhaps, that the monastery might be headed for a resurgence. We drove on, into the Gobi Desert, our Land Cruiser throwing up clouds of dust as we listened to Ulaanbaatar rap and Soviet-era rock ’n’ roll. Above us were squid-ink mountains and puﬀy clouds the size of towns. We had entered a world of shadow and light, horizon and sun. All

We looked out at

ENDLESS VALLEYS THAT MADE US FEEL as small as dust balls sense of time and space fell away. Was it yesterday we’d passed the 13-year-old sheepherder in a thick woolen robe? Had we traveled 50 kilometers today, or not moved at all? It was easy to understand why for millennia nomads have worshipped the “eternal blue sky” as a sovereign presence upon which everything depends. As we drove, I couldn’t help thinking of the rock formations of Monument Valley or the Australian outback, though here the land has been ironed into something flatter and less varied. “Sometimes I just like to look at rocks, the patterns they make,” said Baagi, who grew up with the Darkhad tribe in the north but now spends most of the year in the capital. “Better than any designer! When we were kids, we used rocks to play games. We pretended they were sheep or goats, sometimes tanks. We used them to play cowboys and Indians. Everyone wanted to be an Indian.” At last, we arrived at a small gathering of gers against a rock. This was the Three Camel Lodge, a place that could

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

be called the Pearl of the Gobi. It is the creation of Jalsa Urubshurow, a spirited, enterprising, Kalmyk-Mongolian from New Jersey who saw a chance, after Mongolia opened up, to introduce the beauties of his ancestral home to the rest of the world. Four young staﬀers ran out to greet us, bearing chilled towels and cool glasses of sea-buckthorn juice. One whole section of my three-ger suite was a luxurious bathroom, complete with a rain-forest shower and L’Occitane toiletries. Soon we settled in for a dinner of broccoli soup, Gobi-style mac and cheese, and the lightest pumpkin pie I’d ever tasted. The next morning, in the heart-clearing stillness, Baagi and I woke early and drove out into the pink and golden silence that follows sunrise. We passed into a box canyon beneath a kind of cloud formation that Mongols liken to a dragon delivering a warning. Two ibex suddenly vaulted away from us. Clambering up to a ridge when the road gave out, we found ourselves at a little pavilion with an ancient bell in it. Beyond that was a nine-foot-tall White Tara statue. From the porch of a meditation hut we looked out on endless valleys that made us feel as small as dust balls. The bell sang occasionally in the wind. This center of absolute quiet was Bulgan Temple, the retreat of a local teacher called the Buyan Lama. Baagi told me that it had been completed two years earlier. Local herders had provided the funds and even helped carry the two-tonne statue up the hill. “It’s so moving to me,” my friend said, “to see Buddhism rising out of the dust like a phoenix.” I understood better now why Baasan Lama had fashioned his rough retreat in the mountains above the Orkhon Valley. It was a symbol of the almost shattered heritage he was helping to reconstruct. On a day trip out of Erdene Zuu, Baagi and I had come upon an earlier such retreat in the remote site of Tuvkhun. There, we climbed for three kilometers amid Siberian larches and pines to the place where Zanabazar, the first of Mongolia’s ruling Bogda Lamas—and its greatest Buddhist artist—is

The outer wall of Erdene Zuu, in central Mongolia, thought to be the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest Buddhist monastery. OPPOSITE FROM LEFT:

Camels in the Gobi; a herder in Uureg Nuur.

Roy Chapman Andrews, later the director of the American Museum of Natural History in New York City, made the world’s first discovery of dinosaur eggs. As we strolled along the red ridges, ablaze in the day’s last light, Jalsa pointed out pieces of fossilized dinosaur eggs almost everywhere we stepped. One guest, he said, had recently stumbled upon the first juvenile duck-billed dinosaur skeleton ever found in Mongolia. We slid down a long sandy slope and came out in a quiet space between the rocks where the Three Camel Lodge staﬀ had set up a pavilion for us to eat in as the moon rose and the sky filled with stars. Beside us, local teenagers sang about the open spaces around us, accompanying themselves on a two-string horse-head fiddle.

I N K E E P I N G W I T H Mongolia’s bipolar changes of pace,

The Flaming Cliffs in the Gobi, a treasure trove for fossils.

believed to have constructed his own meditation space around 360 years ago. The site was marked out, hauntingly, by blue scarves tied around the trees. At the top, we came to the spot where Zanabazar is said to have carved 21 Tara statues while completing one of his great works of philosophy. Such places exist in Tibet, but they’re difficult to find and are usually under surveillance. Here, I saw visitors from Chinese-controlled Inner Mongolia, unable to practice Buddhism freely at home, walking around statues of the Buddha and pictures of the Dalai Lama with tears in their eyes. “We are the only free northern Buddhist country in the world,” Baagi said with pride. The next evening, Jalsa drove me through the scrubland, rich with sweet-smelling chives, to the Flaming Cliﬀs, 40 minutes away. This is where, in 1923,

after leaving Three Camel Lodge I drove to a tiny airport in the Gobi so that I could fly back to the go-go capital— where it seemed almost too perfect that there was a dinosaur skeleton on display in the brand-new Hunnu Mall. The mix of fast-moving capitalism and 14th-century pastoralism, on the same morning, was startling. But then I remembered what Baagi had said as we walked among the stupas of Erdene Zuu, the wind whistling in our ears. The Mongol Empire, he reminded me, was famous for incorporating and adapting the trends of Russia and China and Persia. “But,” he added, “the largest empire Genghis Khan built was in Mongolian hearts.” For him the flash and swagger in the capital were less a repudiation of his proud country’s past than simply its latest expression. When I’d sat with Baasan Lama beside his Tibetan chapel, he’d pointed out that even the Buddha had grown up in a king’s palace. Affluence is not necessarily the enemy of mindfulness. “It’s good to be a little rich,” he’d said, measuring his words with care, but delivering them with confidence. “You need to be a little bit rich to have enough food and shelter, education. Then, once you have those things, you can turn to your spiritual life.”

THE DETAILS GETTING THERE Fly to Ulaanbaatar via a connection in Europe, Beijing, Seoul, or Moscow. Travelers who fly through China can apply at the airport for a 72-hour transit-visa exemption to eliminate the hassle of having to obtain a Chinese visa. Carry proof of an onward ticket, which is necessary to board a Chinese connecting flight in both Ulaanbaatar and Beijing. TOUR OPER ATOR Nomadic Expeditions Writer Pico Iyer traveled with this operator, which offers multiple

itineraries in the country, like the central and southern Mongolia trip, which includes monastery visits, two days with Baasan Lama, and a stay at Three Camel Lodge. nomadicexpeditions.com. ACCOMMODATIONS Munkh Tenger A simple camp with a pleasant deck where you can take in the sunset before a hearty, well-cooked meal. Kharkhorin; munkh-tenger.com; gers from US$43. Shangri-La Hotel, Ulaanbaatar Each room in this centrally located hotel offers views of

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

either Great Chinggis Khaan Square or Nayramdal Park. shangri-la.com; doubles from US$280. Three Camel Lodge Find luxury ger lodging and inventive food at one of the most stylish retreats in Mongolia. Havsgait; threecamel lodge.com; doubles from US$710. RESTAUR ANTS Asiana Buddha Vista This Asian-fusion spot serves Chinese, Japanese, and Mongolian food in tatami rooms. Buddha Vista Mall; 976 -7715-1010; mains US$15–$25.

Hazara A colorfully curtained Indian restaurant that has been a go-to place for nearly 20 years. hazara.mn; mains US$12–$25. Terrazza Zaisan This rooftop restaurant in the trendy Zaisan district offers tasty Italian dishes and views of the surrounding hills. 7F Zaisan Square Center; 976/7710-2992; mains US$13– $65. Zen A Japanese restaurant in the Blue Sky Hotel & Tower serving what many residents swear is the best sushi in Ulaanbaatar. hotelbluesky.mn; mains US$12–$25.

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What passes for bustle on the central island of Bora Bora. OPPOSITE: The permanently cloudringed Mount Otemanu casts its gaze over Bora Boraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lagoon.

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Return to Tahiti

Despite its glittering growth, French Polynesia still holds transfixing myths, rustic wonders and youthful innocence with the power to inspire awe in even the most jaded of travelers. story and photos by ian lloyd neubauer

was only five years old the first time I went to Tahiti, though I still recall the trip as though it took place yesterday. I remember splashing around in a gin-clear creek with my baby sister and going mad with fright when a crab waved its claws at us from the creek bed. I remember sitting cross-legged on the floor of the palm-thatch bungalow we called home for two weeks as my mother served chunks of steamed fish. And I remember sitting on my father’s lap in the

back of a pick-up truck, speeding along a palmfringed coast. Over the years I’ve traveled extensively but few destinations have left as lasting an impression as Tahiti. Like the Polynesian beauties in Paul Gauguin’s paintings, the islands woo me to return, tempting me with images of a sun-kissed Eden. The atoll nation has come to define, of course, the über-luxe honeymoon aspiration, but I’m seeking out the simple life beyond those overwater bungalows and private submarines. So it’s with just a little trepidation that I revisit the South Pacific archipelago, wondering if I can recapture that innocent idyll of my childhood.

FROM LEFT: It’s

impossible not to spot sea turtles in the gin-clear waters; at home at The St. Regis Bora Bora; Papeete’s Notre Dame Cathedral dates to 1875.

Most visitors to French Polynesia overlook the main island of Tahiti Nui (“Big Tahiti”) and its capital Papeete in favor of the more glamorous, less-populated Bora Bora and Moorea. But Papeete’s beauty is more than skin-deep. A Penang-meets-Paris hybrid bursting with color and charm, it’s a paradisiacal metropolis. I spend the day roaming around the waterfront district, visiting the Cathédrale Notre Dame and the multilevel central marketplace where hawkers sell everything from seafood to sarongs. I also check out a few of Papeete’s ubiquitous tattoo parlors. I have no intention of getting inked—I’d already

entertained that folly in my youth—but I’m interested in seeing if local artists employ special techniques befitting a culture that popularized the art form to the West via mariners during the age of exploration. (The first written reference of the word tattoo is found in the journal of Joseph Banks, the famous British naturalist who accompanied his compatriot explorer Captain Cook on his first visit to Tahiti in the late 18th century.) While traditional glyphs, such as turtle shells to symbolize longevity and the Marquesan cross to signify harmony among the elements, are still employed, I learn the old method of inking warriors using a chisel called an uhi TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

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has long been superseded by modern tattoo machines that are more accurate and much less painful. In the afternoon I park myself at a café and watch a procession of beautiful women walk down the esplanade in floral-print skirts. Their numbers are interspersed by vagrants, flirtatious teenagers and a smattering of tourists, as well as outlandish drag queens known as rae-rae. Identified by Peruvian author Mario Vargas Llosa in Gauguin’s artworks as “the secret root of his women with the solid thighs and broad shoulders,” rae-raes are prime expressions of the Tahiti’s legendary sexual freedom. Here, the gender spectrum is considered fluid, and rae-raes are a respected segment of society whose presence dates back hundreds of years. Historically they took on the roles of servants, cooks and nannies because of their convivial nature and aptitude for domesticity. These same characteristics have today made the rae-raes darlings of Tahiti’s hospitality sector. The next morning I join a jeep safari into the island’s little-visited interior for a close-up look at the jungle-clad mountains that tower over the capital. My driver, 20-something Tere Chavel, is a never-ending source of often bogus but highly entertaining stories. “I worked as a pearl grafter for many years. Made lots of money. But this is much more fun because I get to meet people like you,” he says as we drive into a velvet-green gorge that looks like something out of Jurassic Park. The Papeno’o Valley, as it is called, is sealed in from the outer world by colossal basalt cliﬀs along which hundreds of waterfalls collide. At noon we stop for lunch at Relais de la Maroto hotel, a former boarding house for hydroelectric workers built on an eagle’s nest precipice. The property is somewhat rundown but the view is something else, with cloudshrouded mountains tumbling into blankets of treetops. “If you feel a bit weird here, there’s a reason,” Tere says. “Tahiti is just a little rock in the center of the biggest ocean on earth, and this place is the very center of Tahiti.” He’s right. The energy is palpable—a raw, tectonic magnetism akin to the Great Pyramids of Giza or the ancient temples of Angkor.

The next stop on my itinerary is

Bora Bora, an hour’s flight from Papeete. Comprising a mountainous central island topped by a dormant volcano in an incredibly blue lagoon ringed by an motu-studded barrier reef, Bora Bora is beyond beautiful, and a slew of super-exclusive resorts have wisely

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TAHITI IS JUST A LITTLE ROCK IN THE CENTER OF THE BIGGEST OCEAN

positioned themselves around the horizon of this Fantasy Island in the flesh. But Bora Bora’s interior holds the intrigue for me. My enquiries lead me to Patrick Mahauta, a local guide who offers historical tours of Bora Bora. “Don’t worry,” he says when he picks me up from The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort where I’m staying. “I’m a professional… even though this is my first day.” Patrick takes me to several lookout points around the 30-square-kilometer central island that each provide mind-blowing views of the barrier reef and the vast seeming-nothingness beyond. He tells me that despite the extraordinary value of land here (islets sell for a cool US$5 million), Bora Bora’s 9,000odd residents live much more basic lives, in wooden houses resembling shacks. When we pass a series of far more stately residences, he explains they belong to the family of Tarita Teriipaia, Marlon Brando’s third wife. The one-time couple met on the set of the 1962 remake of Mutiny on the Bounty and spent a decade living on and off in the nearby island of Tetiaroa, which Brando called home for a while. Today Tetiaroa is home to The Brando, a super-slick resort with 35 one- to three-bedroom pool villas on a sugar-white beach frequented by sea turtles, manta rays and seabirds. Later on in the tour, Patrick points out a modest brick home with two ornate graves in the front yard. Polynesians always buried their parents in this manner since time immemorial, but the practice became illegal under Gallic law when Tahiti became a protectorate of France in 1842. Burials across French Polynesia are these days still restricted to public cemeteries, yet in Bora Bora the law is flagrantly flouted. “It is better like this because if you bury your mother in a cemetery you will only see her on the Day of the Dead,” Patrick explains. “But if she is next to your home, you know whenever you have a problem, you can always talk to mum.” We also visit Bora Bora’s last remaining copra (coconut meat) plantation. Before tourism took off here in the ’60s and ’70s, everyone on Bora Bora worked on farms such

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Sunset

on Huahine; aquatic athletics; a rare, carefully cultivated Tahitian black pearl; the inner lagoon of The St. Regis Bora Bora; the thick jungle interior of Tahiti Nui; cold coconuts for sale in Papeete’s central market.

LOW-KEY HUAHINE IS A NATURAL BEAUTY WITH NO NEED OF MAKEUP

as this one. Coconuts are opened, dried for two weeks, then crushed and sent to Tahiti Nui to make oil, soap and shampoo. “It is very hard work and you make very little money. Now, 80 percent of us work in tourism. We all have better lives and schools and hospitals, but we know it comes at a price,” Patrick says of a trend I’ve seen throughout the South Pacific that is turning once unique island nations into tropical facsimiles of each other. “There are many jobs on this island but most of them are filled by people from other islands,” he laments. “Most of our young people will leave this place.”

If Bora Bora is Tahiti’s supermodel, then

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: At The

St. Regis; Maitai Lapita Village Resort in Huahine; commuting in Huahine; in honor of Tahiti's most famous refugee artist; tour guide Tere Chavel says his shark tattoos protected him from the predators as a pearl diver.

Huahine, 80 kilometers east, is the classic, sweetheart girl next door. Known as the Garden Island of Tahiti for its abundant jungle, Huahine’s attractions include water-purifying blue-eyed eels that locals revere as sacred, a sustainable farm for growing world-famous Tahitian black pearls, and the country’s bestpreserved marae archeological sites. These rectangular slices of communal land hold spiritual, social and political significance for societies throughout the South Pacific. In French Polynesia, marae are stone platforms sometimes surrounded by mini-obelisks or podiums that were the locus of power in precolonial times. The discovery by archeologists of human bone fragments at Taputapuatea marae on Raiatea Island and other Society Islands, for example, suggest

they were used for Aztec-like human sacrifices. Here in Huahine, 1,000-year-old red terracotta pottery objects have been unearthed, along with war clubs made of whalebone and fishing hooks made of oyster shells. My abode, the Maitai Lapita Village resort, is unusual in that it is also a museum of pottery. Its 32 bungalows feature soaring double-story interiors beset with indigenous artwork to create a low-key, culturally rich alternative to Bora Bora and its somewhat untethered decadence. “I named this place ‘Lapita’ because it provokes the question of where the Polynesian people come from,” says designer and co-owner Peter Owen, an American potter who’s lived on Huahine for decades. “The Lapita are the supposed ancestors of the Polynesians who came here by canoe from East Asia. I’ve unearthed more than 200 pieces of Lapita pottery on the island.” Some have been carbon-dated to 1050 A.D.; the best are on display in the lobby. I’m loath to leave Huahine because I like her more than the other islands I’ve visited. Wilder than the tropical urbanity around Papeete, far more understated than glam Bora, Huahine holds the feeling of community and the sense of awe I’ve been trying to recapture. I’ve fallen for her incredible green radiance and the restrained nature of her development. She’s a natural beauty with no need of makeup. On the way to the Huahine airport I find myself being driven along a palm-fringed coast, the sun dancing upon the water like shards of broken glass. “My mind is always soothed,” Brando wrote in his 1994 autobiography, Songs My Mother Taught Me, “when I imagine myself sitting on my South Sea island at night.” For a moment I’m back on my father’s lap, eyes wide open, a child in paradise engrossed by the promise of adventure and discovery.

THE DETAILS GETTING THERE You'll likely have to fly via Auckland on Air Tahiti Nui (airtahitinui.com) or Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.co.nz) to get to Papeete, then catch a connecting flight on Air Tahiti (airtahiti.com) to Bora Bora or Huahine. The Brando is only serviced by the private planes of Air Tetiaroa. The dry season runs April to November.

HOTEL S Ahitea Lodge Near Papeete, the city’s best value with large bedrooms. 689/531-353; ahitealodge.com; doubles from F9,550. InterContinental Tahiti Resort & Spa A great primer resort on the main island, just two kilometers from the airport, with overwater bungalows and views of Moorea. 689-40/865-110; tahiti.intercontinental.com; doubles from F33,792.

The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort 689-40/607-888; stregisborabora. com; doubles from F162,000. The Brando 689-40/866-300; thebrando.com; doubles from F262,830, two-night minimum; accessible only via Air Tetiaroa with flights billed separately. Maitai Lapita Village Resort 689/688-080; huahine. hotelmaitai.com; doubles from F30,955.

EXCURSIONS Tahiti Safari Expedition 68940/421-415; tahiti-safari.com; full-day excursions of Tahiti Nui’s interior F7,000 per person. Bora Bora Explorer Half-day excursions of Bora Bora. 68987/720-121; boraboraexplorer.com; Cultural Island Tour by 4WD €71 per person.

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Industrial

REVOLU FROM LEFT: Students from Central St. Martins, near the art

school’s new Granary Square campus; the newly refurbished departures concourse at King’s Cross station; Indian street snacks at Dishoom King’s Cross; sculptor Antony Gormley’s studio.

BACKGROUND: COURTESY OF LIFEOFPI X .COM

TION

The sooty tangle of railways and derelict warehouses around king’s cross was once central London’s seediest quarter. Now, it’s home to an ambitious urban renewal project—and has become an unlikely model for the city’s future. BY WILL SELF

Photographed by JAMES MERRELL

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remember the first time I consciously went to King’s Cross, on the northeastern edge of central London, and by “consciously,” I mean in the first sweaty bloom of swaggering adolescence, up for life and mouth wide open to suck up the big city. My friend John and I had traveled in by Tube from our natal homes in the north London ’burbs; we had £9 in cash between us and we were wired on amphetamine “blues”—speed pills that, at four for £1, were attractively priced for teenaged punk rockers in the late 1970s. We were en route to Jock’s Tattoo Parlour, and perhaps this fact alone—that we had to journey across town to be inkily inscribed—serves to separate that era from this one, when no gentrifying London neighborhood is complete without its own body-modification salon and most of the city’s inhabitants resemble Maori warriors going into battle. Jock’s was a malodorous little nook on the scabrous section of the Pentonville Road that runs east from King’s Cross station. I say “runs,” because whatever the evolutionary

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end point of the massive redevelopment currently under way in King’s Cross, I doubt the thick miasma of debauchery and desuetude that hangs over this dingy dell will ever be dispelled. In 1977 the road was dominated by the strange Victorian turret of the Lighthouse Building and the Scala Cinema’s lone cupola—both structures that remain in place today. John and I breasted the crowds of office workers, warily eyed skulking prostitutes and drug dealers, then dived into Jock’s and stood there, quaking, in the gloomy cigarette-stunk interior. The eponymous tattooist was a huge, bearded old biker who sat behind a wooden bench, upon which were arranged the electric tools of his trade. So far as I can recall, there wasn’t a clean needle or disinfected surface in sight. “Blimey,” Jock spat, “look what the f-ing cat dragged in. What’s up with you two—speeding, or what?” We teeth-chatteringly admitted this was indeed the case and Jock, not unkindly, took us to task: “I expect you little toerags are paying well over the odds, you should come down ’ere to get yer gear.” And with a flourish he pulled a huge plastic bag full of amphetamines from behind his bench. We quailed, suitably chastened, then bared our scrawny arms to receive £9-worth of his indelible artistry. Mine, the head of a black puma, has since been tattooed over. Just shy of four decades later I decided to cycle across town from Lambeth, the south London neighborhood where I now live, up across the river and northeast to King’s Cross. A friend of mine, the artist Antony Gormley, was throwing his 65th-birthday party in his studio on Vale Royal where for the past 13 years he’s constructed vast and steely artworks based on the form of his own body. When Gormley first moved here, the area was still a characterful cocktail: one part scuzz to one part light industry, and two of outright neglect. “There is no comparison” to the neighborhood today, he told me over tea in his

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airy—yet severely functional— atelier, which was designed by David Chipperfield. “Parts of King’s Cross used to be like a bit of the industrial West Midlands transposed to London—there were those fantastic charcoal-patinated walls, with big granite copingstones.” Gormley’s studio is almost a kilometer north of King’s Cross station. As in most great Victorian cities, London’s main rail stations were built in the late 19th century in a ring around what was then the city’s periphery: property rights in the center were too entrenched (and their owners too powerful) for the iron road to ride roughshod over them. In the immediate purlieu of Waterloo, Paddington and Victoria stations, the sort of shady activities associated with mass transit proliferated during the latter part of the 19th century: the liquor and sex trades, gambling establishments, hotels-cum-brothels, pawnbrokers and shebeens. But in this part of town there were no fewer than three mainline railway stations—Euston itself, St. Pancras, and King’s Cross—so the shades clustered commensurately, becoming thicker and darker than in any other part of the capital. Gormley and his wife, the painter Vicken Parsons, have mixed memories of the seedy seepage up the Euston Road: “There was a period when they flushed all the drug dealers out from around the station,” he told me, “and all the prostitutes and dealers came up this way. We came home one evening and a prostitute was entertaining her client on our front steps.”

ing’s cross

has a bogus reputation as the site where Queen Boudicca fought with London’s Roman occupiers—a fiction enshrined in the local street name Battle Bridge Road. It actually takes its name from an odd, octagonal brick tower surmounted by a statue of King

The mirrored panels of Gasholder No. 8, a disused Victorian gas tank now converted into a public art piece.

Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cross Pond Club, a naturally filtered swimming pool with views of St. Pancras International and the BT tower.

George IV that was erected at the intersection of Gray’s Inn Road and Pentonville Road in the 1830s and pulled down a decade or so later. The station itself was built in the early 1850s, and is a huge structure with a sweeping brick façade that, until the recent renovations, was obscured by a jumble of later accretions. St. Pancras International, right beside King’s Cross, serves the Midlands region and is the terminal for Eurostar service to the Continent. St. Pancras is perhaps the most extravagant example of neo-Gothic architecture in a city with more than its fair share: during my childhood, its finials and spires and flying buttresses were coated with a thick, black slather of smog left over from industrial-era London’s countless coal fires. Now it has been thoroughly cleaned up, and as well as the trains, the building today houses the suitably named Renaissance Hotel. (A new Standard Hotel—the first outside the U.S.—is due to open across the street in the old Camden Town Hall in 2017.) The King’s Cross rehabilitation officially began here, radiating out to the north, filling in the disused shunting yards and engine sheds that lay alongside the train tracks with shiny, happy new buildings. In fact, the regeneration process began much earlier than we might suppose. The British Library moved to the site abutting St. Pancras station in the late 1990s. I remember visiting with its then director, who took me down into the just-completed underground stacks: eight subterranean, temperaturecontrolled floors, housing a portion of the library’s 150 million books. Colin St. John Wilson’s design was an effective compromise between soft Modernism and angular Gothicism that synced the library with its surroundings. It’s this harmony that the newer, far more extensive construction to the north needs to sustain if King’s Cross’s character is to be modulated rather than nullified. The signs so far are good. Apart from the cartoonish Paul Day statue

of lovers embracing that stands on the platform area, St. Pancras station is now light and modern—pleasing as well as functional. King’s Cross, next door, is something of a tour de force, with a huge new vaulted waiting area and a piazza out front where, with a certain inevitability, nice liberals are now selling artisanal produce. The walkway running from the station to the new King’s Place building on York Way is, however, less successful: the little pop-up installations—a viewing platform, an espresso stall, food huts—seem to loom larger than the new buildings. This is partly because of what the philosopher Walter Benjamin termed “vertical type”: in this case, slogans blazoned all over these temporary structures, exhorting us to buy and walk and observe and “inherit”— in short, instructing us on how to be flaneurs, as if we haven’t been doing this stuff all our lives. The boxy installations evoke the innumerable railway carriages that clattered northward from the three great stations—as well as the equally

also contains an arts venue and exhibition areas, plus the ubiquitous foodie overkill without which no new public building can pat its glassy, parametrically designed stomach and announce itself to be complete. This publishing company can be seen as the liberal counterweight to the 90,000 square meters of office space Google is acquiring in King’s Cross Central (as the redeveloped locale is being styled by its developers). As a contributor, I occasionally go into the Guardian’s offices, and I’ve also taken part in live events at King’s Place, after which I’ve eaten in its restaurant, looking out at the great scum of oil and pigeon feathers that swirls over the waters of the canal basin—a nice contrast to the acres of blond wood and plate glass within. There are shiny new restaurants everywhere, many of them— Caravan, Dishoom, the Grain Store— in striking old industrial spaces. Later this year Jamie Oliver is opening a canal-side complex in Goods Yard that will house his company headquarters along with a

Suitably chastened, we bared our scrawny arms to receive £9-worth of Jock's indelible artistry myriad narrow boats that oozed through the stygian waters of the Regent’s Canal. This evocation somehow counts against the brightly futuristic promise of the new building developments, and draws us back again to the area’s dark past. King’s Cross has this peculiar air, still, of enormous and surly gravity— the filth and effluent from the old gasworks that once operated here compacted to atomic densities—and an opposing levity: everyone is hurrying, everyone is going somewhere at speed. The Guardian Media Group has its new offices in King’s Place, which

vast restaurant. Lisa Allardice, editor of the Guardian’s Review section, told me that when she moved here with the rest of the paper’s staff from the old Gray’s Inn Road offices, “The most exciting thing to do was a trip to the pharmacy at lunchtime.” Now, Allardice is a King’s Cross booster: “We can’t move for all the incredible buildings and bright young hipsters out on a Thursday evening.” Antony Gormley was more forthcoming about the downside of the rise of King’s Cross. While acknowledging the vibrancy and eclecticism of the crowds swirling around the new piazzas and along the

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With a certain inevitability, nice liberals out front of King's Cross are now selling artisanal produce new pedestrian walkways, he says: “The tragedy may be that in the financing of the area the land values have been inflated. Now the annual per-square-foot rental price is £80, whereas in the City of London it’s £70. The justification is the lie that if you come to King’s Cross you’re going to be part of the trendy avant-garde.” One of the iconic British movies of the 1980s was written and directed by Mike Leigh, a filmmaker who continues to summon up London’s genius loci in his socially acute dramas. In High Hopes (1988), Cyril, a Marxist motorcycle courier, and Shirley, his girlfriend, live in an apartment block right next to King’s Cross station. I remember this building well: one of a pair that then stood on Battle Bridge Road, originally part of a group of five. The Stanley Buildings were constructed in the 1860s for railway employees, and were notable for their elegant ironwork balconies and exterior stairways. By the time I jittered down to Jock’s, the last two had become squats, mostly occupied by my fellow punks. Leigh’s movie charts the rise of the yuppies under Margaret Thatcher’s government and their gentrification of London’s run-down inner-city areas. The climactic scene has Cyril standing on the roof of one of the Stanley Buildings and inveighing against these changes, while in the middle distance the skeletal silhouette of a gasholder looms. Today, that gasholder is all that remains; the last Stanley Building has been refurbished and pressed into service as a retro-style office block. If Cyril were up there now and could see what’s happened, he’d probably fall off the roof in surprise. I nearly fell off my bike the other night when the floodlit jets of water laid out

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in a gridlike formation in front of the new Central St. Martins building burst into life. Pedaling in between their surreal splashes, I marveled at the sheer vastness of the old granary buildings that have now been converted into a campus for London’s University of the Arts—and marveled still more at the plastic stacking chairs upturned on the studio workbenches inside. When it comes to life-drawing classes, it seems it’s a case of plus ça change.

ing’s cross

Central is taking form around a series of 10 public spaces, including three new squares. The fine views of St. Paul’s Cathedral and central London from the north side of the site are to be protected, and while some buildings will be as high as 27 stories, there’s also a lot of low-to-medium rise. The area is bounded to the east by York Way, a grim runnel of an arterial route; to the west by the train line out of St. Pancras; and to the northwest by the curving line of the high-speedrail connection to the Continent. Yet the most important transport the developers have at their disposal is none of these. Rather, it’s the canal towpath linking the new “place” (which is how contemporary developers bizarrely style their creations, as if all that came before was void and without form) with Camden Lock, 1½ kilometers or so to the east. Long the epicenter of face-metal-and-henna-tattooing-byappointment for European teenagers, this complex of street markets and eateries will, I predict, eventually merge with King’s Cross Central, so that visitors will be able to complete a

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great east-west passeggiata, with retail and snacking opportunities every step of the way. I may sound a little cynical, but trust me, I’m not. The debate about London’s built environment is focused now on the grotesque sight of capital fleeing from unstable regions of the world to take spatial form on the city’s skyline. Row upon row of bar-code-façade “luxury flats” are being built, while the provision of affordable housing in the city—even for key workers—keeps declining. The optimistic developers’ view is that no matter how shiny and new the starchitects’ infill of the roughly triangular 27-hectare King’s Cross Central site, the grimy and the old will continue to inform it. The project has had its controversies, including the alleged exclusion of tenants with mental health issues from what little affordable housing options there are. Yet compared with the big new London developments that are exercises in “placemaking” entirely de novo, I think King’s Cross Central does have a real chance of knitting with the ancient fabric of the city, so that soon enough it will seem lived-in—and may even come to possess that most evanescent of urban phenomena, “character.” Of course, this will only be a passing phase—before long, like in a plot of a Stephen King horror novel, that “character” will begin to grow stronger and mutate, cloning itself into an entire cast of separate characters. And as King’s Cross Central feeds off the raw economics and attendant atmospherics of its three enduring rail stations, so all the activities its well-tended and monied new spaces are designed to prohibit will slowly, insidiously, begin to reassert themselves. No, I’m not cynical about King’s Cross Central, because I know you can’t keep the essential scuzziness of King’s Cross down for long. It may take 10 or even 20 years, but eventually the jittery teenagers will return from the ’burbs, and they’ll find Jock’s lineal descendant waiting for them, a crooked grin bisecting his

FROM LEFT: Evening drinks on the roof

of a canal boat and new waterside seating off Granary Square; St. Pancras International, which now houses the Renaissance Hotel.

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y M I C H A E L H O E W E L E R

THE DETAILS HOTEL St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel After more than 30 years of neglect, the old Midland Grand Hotel has returned to its former glory as the Renaissance, sparking a revitalization of the surrounding neighborhood. marriott.com; doubles from £249. RESTAUR ANTS Caravan A global-smallplates hot spot housed in a Victorian granary behind King’s Cross station. caravanrestaurants.co.uk; small plates £7-£9.

Dishoom Another Victorian warehouse—this one converted into the Indian-street-food chain’s most impressive London branch. dishoom.com; mains £6.50-£11.90. Grain Store An upscale restaurant on Granary Square that gets glowing reviews for its vegetable-centric menu. grainstore.com; mains £6.50£17.50. Rotunda Bar & Restaurant The modern British menu and terrace overlooking Regent’s Canal make this a local standout. rotundabarand restaurant.co.uk; set menus from £19.50.

ACTIVITIES British Library The U.K.’s national library holds a collection of 150 million volumes, with rare artifacts like the Magna Carta and Beatles manuscripts. bl.uk. Gasholder Park This old natural-gas repository has been developed into a public park with a lovely lawn and canopy overlooking St. Pancras Lock. kingscross.co.uk/ gasholder-park. King’s Cross Pond Club A public swimming pool designed as part of the King’s Cross Public Art Program. kings crosspond.club.

Harry Potter fans know King’s Cross as the train station housing the Hogwarts Express. Visitors now come from around the world in search of the iconic trolley cart near Platform 9. Kings Place A multiuse venue with a waterside restaurant, art galleries and two world-class concert halls. kingsplace.co.uk.

place SINGAPORE

LION CITY ROAR

DESPITE its diminutive size, the citystate somehow keeps on growing. Here, a guide on what to eat, drink and do now. BY MELANIE LEE

Luxe life at the iconic Ion Orchard.

FROM LEFT: Peranakan pastels light up

Joo Chiat Road in Katong; the Study in Keong Saik; at Tea Bone Zen Mind.

Insider Tips Michael Chiang, playwright of Beauty World

PLACES WITH PERSONALITY

Singapore's neighborhoods are as distinct and varied as the bloodlines pulsing through the city's multiethnic populace. KATONG

This Eastern suburb has much to offer: pictureperfect colorful Peranakan shophouses along Joo Chiat Road; Singapore’s best rice noodles in spicy coconut milk soup at 328 Katong Laksa (51 East Coast Rd.); and Chin Mee Chin Confectionary (204 East Coast Rd.), one of the rare kopitiams (old-school coffee shops) left in town.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: W E I X I A N G L I M ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E S T U D Y; C O U R T E S Y O F T E A B O N E Z E N M I N D ; C O U R T E S Y O F M I C H A E L C H I A N G ; C O U R T E S Y O F N AT I O N A L H E R I TA G E B O A R D . O P P O S I T E : W E I X I A N G L I M

ORCHARD

The shopping hub of Asia doesn’t need much of an introduction. Ion Orchard (ionorchard.com) is a muststop for all luxury brands; Far East Plaza (fareastplaza. com.sg) has a wide variety of edgy street fashion popular with the young and young-atheart. Need a break? Stroll up pretty Emerald Hill Road and have a leisurely afternoon tea at Tea Bone Zen Mind (teabonezenmind.com).

KAMPONG GLAM

Once a Malay-Arab enclave where the Sultan of Singapore lived, this area is remarkably comfortable with contrasts. Visit the old palace, which

is now the Malay Heritage Centre (malayheritage.org. sg), and browse quirky shops in Haji Lane such as local boutique Soon Lee (soonlee. sg) and home store Mondays Off (mondays-off.com).

LITTLE INDIA

While this neighborhood still suffers from a slightly poor reputation, it is one of Singapore’s most culturally vibrant. Earn shopping cred by surviving a spree at 24hour Mustafa Shopping Centre (mustafa.com.sg), where you can find practically everything under the sun. If you’re in Singapore in October or November, a walking tour of all the streets’ festive Deepavali lights and decorations is a must.

TIONG BAHRU Pegged as a hipster haven with indie bookstore BooksActually (books actuallyshop.com) as its main ambassador, the café-filled ’hood centered around one of the country’s oldest housing estates is an architectural delight with its Art Deco shophouses and retro public

Marina Barrage.

Take public transportation. housing flats. Get all-day breakfast at Flock (78 Moh Guan Ter.), croissants at Tiong Bahru Bakery (59 Eng Hoon St.) and of course coffee at the famous Forty Hands (40handscoffee.com). Tiong Bahru Market (tiongbahru. market) has the widest and tastiest range of hawker food.

KEONG SAIK

Among the boutique hotels and fine-dining restaurants popping up are still plenty of fun places for a bottoms up. Potato Head Folk (pttheadfolk.com) has Studio 1939 lounge on its third level: vintage seats and an intimate marble bar make for friendly interplay with the bartenders. The Library is a secret bar hidden by a bookshelf, and you can only get to it with a password through its sister bistro The Study (the-study. sg). For "healthy" cocktails, try Afterglow (fb.com/ afterglowsg) where their vegan-friendly concoctions are made from fresh herbs, flowers and fruits.

HAPPY WALKING

If you can bear the heat, the eight-kilometer Jubilee Walk trail (map and guide can be downloaded at nhb.gov.sg) is a leisurely way to get acquainted with Singapore’s most iconic buildings, monuments and public art. The trail starts with the National Museum of Singapore and ends at the Marina Barrage. Look out for the gold SG50 markers that line this trail—or download the Singapore Time Walk app: users just have to point your smartphone camera at certain landmarks to pull up information, archival images and animations for an interactive history lesson.

Resist Uber, and instead hop on a bus or train. It’s not just cheap, but also efficient and easy to navigate. Catch a sunrise at Singapore Botanic Gardens.

Share the dewy tranquility with joggers, qigong devotees and dogwalkers at this 157-year-old UNESCO World Heritage site. Catch a sunset at Aura Sky Lounge.

Though only on the 6th floor of National Gallery Singapore, Aura is my favorite place to grab a lychee martini and take in Singapore’s skyline anchored by the iconic Marina Bay Sands. Listen to…

…music by young Singaporean musicians such as Charlie Lim, The Sam Willows and Gentle Bones. Their stuff is heartbreakingly beautiful.

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/ place!/

SINGAPORE

The city's hottest trends

HOTELIER AND RESTAURATEUR

Loh Lik Peng

"Try Candlenut (candlenut. com.sg; omakase S$65), a modern Peranakan restaurant that embraces old Nyonya recipes from grandmother. Their buah keluak (traditionally cooked with chicken) is also offered with Wagyu beef ribs."

DYNAMIC DINING

Just four of the newest eateries powering the fast-paced food scene. ▲ CHEEK BY JOWL Chef Rishi Naleendra (formerly of Sydney’s Tetsuya’s) has concocted a multicultural rainbow of a menu with such dishes as ocean trout with cucumber, yuzu and butter milk, and duck confit with five-spice and chili caramel served with crispy waffles. cheekbyjowl.com.sg; five-course set S$88.

Hawker food with a modern twist

▲ REDPAN A refreshing collaboration between DP Architects and restaurant group Grub results in this aesthetically-pleasing bistro serving up comfort food with a local twist. Witness the béchamel and Chinese sausage-bursting leop cheong mac ’n’ cheese. redpan.sg; meal for two S$60. ◄ CAMP KILO CHARCOAL CLUB It feels like you're hanging out in someone’s (big) backyard party at this chill outdoor eatery dishing out a slew of hearty meats, carbs and desserts. A 30-kilogram pig is usually roasting on their self-made spit. kilokitchen.com; meal for two S$80.

Instagram makes the ordinary look extraordinary

"The latest Instagramfriendly hangout is Chong Wen Ge Café (168 Telok Ayer St.; meal for two S$20), in an old 19th-century Chinese school. Photo opportunities abound since their table tops are laid with vibrant vintage Peranakan tiles while their local grub is served in cute floral, retro plates."

COCKTAILS WITH CHARACTER Starting with the Singapore Sling, the mixed drink has always had a special seat at the table in this island-state.

ABOVE: Stunning views from Smoke & Mirrors.

LEFT: Connect the shots

at Hopscotch Bar.

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► HOPSCOTCH BAR specializes in Singaporeinfluenced craft cocktails with ingredients such as lemongrass, pandan and hibiscus. Especially memorable is their Osmanthus Penicillin drink: Osmanthus-infused Kakubin whisky with ginger honey, citrus zest and goji jelly. hopscotch.sg; drinks for two S$50. ► LAUGH ’s graffitiplastered walls and kitschy mod furnishings perfectly

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match their playful signature cocktails, especially Laugh Laugh, made of vodka, butterscotch, lime juice and raspberry. thesouthbeach. com.sg; drinks for two $40. ► SMOKE & MIRRORS offers not only a sprawling balcony with stunning views of Singapore’s skyline, but also a selection of artsy cocktails inspired by its location in National Gallery Singapore. The vodka, butterfly pea flower cordial

and grapefruit bittersblended Lotus in a Breeze 1970 pays homage to painter Georgette Chen. smokeandmirrors.com.sg; drinks for two S$45. ► URBAN SALOON is a mod take on a Wild Western joint, mixing an interesting range of reinterpreted cocktail classics such as Mimosa & Friends blending chamomile, elderflower, orange juice and champagne. urbansaloon. com; drinks for two S$60.

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F U N L I S T E D C O L L E C T I O N ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A G G I E J O A N ' S ; C O U R T E S Y O F U N L I S T E D C O L L E C T I O N ; C O U R T E S Y O F H O P S C O T C H B A R ; C O U R T E S Y O F S M O K E & M I R R O R S ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E U N I F O R M ; C O U R T E S Y O F R E D PA N

▲ MAGGIE JOAN’S Don't be daunted finding the Mediterranean tavern's nondescript entrance in an empty back alley. Once inside, you’re enveloped by a bustling crowd clamoring for tasty plates such as roast Jerusalem artichoke and Manchego, and grilled Iberico pork jowl with cauliflower and prunes. maggiejoans.com; meal for two S$80.

SINGLIT PICKS

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F T H E S O U T H B E A C H ; C O U R T E S Y O F E P I G R A M B O O K S ( 2 ) ; C O U R T E S Y O F S L E E P E R S P U B L I S H I N G ; C O U R T E S Y O F H A R P E R C O L L I N S P U B L I S H E R S ; C O U R T E S Y O F J A N I C E W O N G ; C O U R T E S Y O F H O T E L YA N

These recent books immerse you in the human side of Singapore. The Art of Charlie Chan Hock Chye by Sonny Liew Hailed as a masterpiece by Publishers Weekly and winner of Book of the Year for Singapore Book Awards 2016, this graphic novel follows the life and work of fictional comics artist Charlie Chan over five decades.

Hotel Yan.

The South Beach.

aesthetic complements the nearby artisanal coffee joints and the rest of this micro-neighborhood between Kampong Glam and Little India. hotel-yan.com; doubles from S$157.

HIP HOTELS

There's no shortage of new, super cool spots to bed down for the night. HÔTEL VAGABOND This is French designer Jacques Garcia’s first boutique hotel in Asia—and what a vibrant, colorful one it is. Housed in an Art Deco heritage building with Parisian-chic rooms and an artist-in-residence mingling with guests, it’s the perfect place for the bohemian-atheart. hotelvagabondsingapore.com; doubles from S$259. HOTEL YAN Industrial chic is all the

rage in Singapore, so it was only a matter of time until a hotel decked in rustic iron and wood would emerge—and from the warehouse part of town no less. Its rooms are small, but its retro, utilitarian

HAWKER FARE Chef Janice Wong dishes on her favorites

The Epigram Books Collection of Best New Singaporean Short Stories: Volume Two edited by Jason Erik Lundberg A diverse spectrum of imagination and perspective from some of Singapore’s most evocative voices. Definitely read Jeremy Tiang’s “Toronto.” Inheritance by Balli Kaur Jaswal An intimate family drama about Singapore’s Punjabi-Sikh community with universal themes: cultural traditions, societal expectations and finding a sense of belonging. Set in the rapid economic growth of the 1970s-90s.

THE SOUTH BEACH The ultimate designer experience, this massive hotel's trippy, playful interiors were conceptualized by Philippe Starck. It’s also big on customization, so you can choose accommodation based on your needs. For example, Showcase Her, a women’s-only room, comes with a facial steamer and hair straightener. thesouth beach.com.sg; doubles from S$450. SOFITEL SINGAPORE SENTOSA RESORT & SPA This recently

refurbished resort is a luxurious respite from the main island’s hustle and bustle. Perched at the top of a cliff above Tanjong Beach and surrounded by 10 hectares of tropical woodlands, this serene seaside resort also houses a huge spa that comes with a mud pool filled with volcanic mud from New Zealand. sofitel-singaporesentosa.com; doubles from S$340.

HENG KEE CURRY CHICKEN NOODLES “I grew up eating these noodles, as my grandmother used to live near here. I am amazed at how consistent it is even after all these years. The combination of curry, chicken and yellow noodles is delicious and comforting.” Hong Lim Food Centre, Stall 01-58, 531A Upper Cross St.

Sarong Party Girls by Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan Taking its title from a local term for Asian girls who date white men, the book follows 27-year-old Jazzy in her rom-com quest to find a rich ang moh (Western expat) husband. A fun and breezy plane read.

GHIM MOH CHWEE KUEH “This is one of the few stalls where the chwee kueh (steamed rice cake) is fresh every morning (most are from factories). Their chye poh (preserved radish) topping, what usually makes or breaks this dish, is from a traditional recipe of garlic and pork lard. It is so simple, but so good.” Ghim Moh Food Centre, Stall 01-54, 20 Ghim Moh Rd.

SIN CHEW SATAY BEE HOON “To me, satay bee hoon (rice vermicelli drenched in satay sauce) is the most interesting Singaporean dish but it can’t be found in many places these days. The sauce here is just the right balance of sweet, savory, spicy, nutty and creamy.” Bukit Timah Food Centre, Stall 02-162, 116 Upper Bukit Timah Rd.

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wish you were here

Jonathan Pozniak / Lukla / NEPAL When the sun rises over these majestic Himalayan peaks, the depths of the valleys stay in shadow. Up in the manicured mountain terraces of Nepal, steep is an understatement. It’s a place where time, space and distance are defined in the same manner and thought of both on the vertical and the horizontal. Destinations are measured not in kilometers but by how many days it takes to hike there. Lukla is nestled in the Khumbu region in the northeast of Nepal and, although it means “place with many goats and sheep,” it’s more likely to be filled with trekkers these days. As our helicopter soared off the cliffside runway at Lukla, I have to agree with its description as the world’s most dangerous airport. Light and shadow became the measure of rising and falling, our ever-changing place in the sky.

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AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

Thousands of families are healthier thanks to skilled professionals like Dr. Seuss. Reading makes us feel good. It makes us smile. Think. Question. You could say it empowers us to be healthier human beings. Room to Read has published millions of original childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s books in more than 20 languages. Local authors and illustrators are providing kids throughout Asia and Africa with reading material thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s relevant to their lives. Imagine a world where every child learns to read. Then imagine yourself helping us get there. Because when books are in the picture, anyone can turn the page. Read more at roomtoread.org/asiapacific.

SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT WITH T+L SOUTHEAST ASIA AUGUST 2016

Beras Basah Island, East Kalimantan • Indonesia

You will always prefer the scenic route At some point in your life, you will feel that it is time to unwind. With your usual daily vast occurrences, remember to push the reset button. Stop for a second, let go of your worries. Reconnect with the earth and experience our way of relaxing. Be one with our nature, take your pick: endless mountains, inﬁnite beaches, sparkling cities, or historical wonders. Don’t think twice. Because when everyone else is busy living, we celebrate life instead. www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel

indonesia.travel

Early morning calm.

The capital comes alive at night.

A break in Batam.

Breathtaking Wakatobi.

Spiritual center Taman Sari.

Samalona Island.

A sweep of Lake Toba.

Scenic Senggigi.

F R O M L E F T: I N D O N E A S I A T O U R I S M ; Â© A L E K S A N D A R T O D O R O V I C / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; I N D O N E A S I A T O U R I S M . O P P O S I T E : N T B

Mist-shrouded Tangkuban Perahu.

Catching a break near Kalibendo.

Wayag Hills, Raja Ampat â&#x20AC;˘ Indonesia

Discover the garden of the world At some point in your life, you will feel that it is time to unwind. With your usual daily vast occurrences, remember to push the reset button. Stop for a second, let go of your worries. Reconnect with the earth and experience our way of relaxing. Be one with our nature, take your pick: endless mountains, inďŹ nite beaches, sparkling cities, or historical wonders. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think twice. Because when everyone else is busy living, we celebrate life instead. www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel

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SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT WITH T+L SOUTHEAST ASIA AUGUST 2016 W GOA

W SINGAPORE – SENTOSA COVE

WHAT’S YOUR ESCAPE PLAN? WITH A SUPERLATIVE SPOT ON VIVACIOUS VAGATOR BEACH, W GOA IS THE LATEST SULTRY ADDITION TO OUR CHIC RESORTS IN ASIA-PACIFIC. ENCIRCLED BY DRAMATIC RED CLIFFS AND CELEBRATED FOR ITS ELECTRIFYING SUNSETS OVER THE ARABIAN SEA, THIS EXOTIC SPOT ON INDIA’S WEST COAST COMBINES HINDU HISTORY WITH PORTUGUESE CULTURE FOR SOME FUNKY HERITAGE, WHILE THE FLEA MARKET AND FULL MOON PARTIES SOUNDTRACKED BY GOAN TRANCE AT NEARBY ANJUNA BEACH ARE WORLD FAMOUS. AT W GOA, LIGHT, BRIGHT AND AIRY VILLA BEDROOMS ARE SUFFUSED WITH INDIAN SPIRIT, WHILE THE BEACHFACING ROCK POOL IS THE ULTIMATE HANGOUT ON THIS FORMER HIPPY TRAIL. W GOA IS NOT JUST A PLACE, IT’S A STATE OF MIND.

W BALI – SEMINYAK

W KOH SAMUI

W MALDIVES

GOA STATE OF MIND

INDIA’S MOST EXOTIC GETAWAY, W GOA IS A TROPICAL PARADISE SURROUNDED BY STRIKING RED CLIFFS AND THE SPARKLING ARABIAN SEA, AN ELECTRIFYING BACKDROP FROM WHICH TO SWITCH OFF AND RECHARGE. Scintillatingly set on one of India’s most striking beaches, VAGATOR, W’s latest addition exudes exuberant resort living with adrenalin-fuelled watersports and poolside socialising to reinvigorate your spirit and indulgent pampering at the SPA BY CLARINS to fuel your glow. Touch base with Goa’s Portuguese colonial past with a hike up Vagator’s iconic black rocks to the 500-year old Chapora Fort. Other must-dos? Set sail on a dolphin-spotting cruise and score

tickets to world-renowned trance parties from our well-connected W INSIDER. Steeped in dance culture, W GOA guests can get their groove on at Vagator, where bars play to a trance-loving crowd. Goa’s party central also hosts Asia’s largest music festival, SUNBURN, and electro-dance fest SUPERSONIC. Goa’s dining scene is a mouthwatering melting pot of local and global bites, and don’t-miss spots include LA PLAGE for French-Medterranean fare, VINAYAK BAR

for fish thali and BOMRAS for high end Burmese cuisine that’s best savored on its secluded shady terrace. Those looking to indulge in some one-of-a-kind retail therapy can shop for classy resortwear at SACHA MENDES, while NANA KI is the place to head for Indian-inspred threads and accessories. At W Goa, you’ll never miss a single unexpectedly thrilling, pleasant surprising moment that makes up what we call a “Goa State of Mind.”

02 03 EXPLORE WHOTELS.COM

A SWIMWEAR COLLECTION INSPIRED BY W RESORTS

W HOTELS X WE ARE HANDSOME

W Resorts Asia Pacific has collaborated with Australian designer swimwear label WE ARE HANDSOME to create an electrifying capsule collection inspired by its sultry tropical settings. Comprising a scoop swimsuit that oozes contemporary resort glamour and a pair of board shorts, the design incorporates electrifying elements surrounding the four W RESORTS IN ASIA PACIFIC: W MALDIVES, W KOH SAMUI, W BALI – SEMINYAK and the soon-to-open W GOA. The limited edition print’s chief design element is a Chrysaora jellyfish juxtaposed against a starry night sky with overlying glow in the dark elements borrowed from the recent “Let it Glow” restyling of W Maldives. The collection encapsulates the energy that ebbs and flows through the resorts when the sun sets, the stars come out and nature starts to glow, say We Are Handsome founders Katinka and Jeremy Somers, who stayed at W Resorts in Bali, Koh Samui and the Maldives to seek inspiration for the collection. The backdrop for the capsule collection photoshoot, which features former AUSTRALIA’S NEXT TOP MODEL WINNER AMANDA WARE and up-and-coming KOREAN MODEL BYEON WOO SEOK, was the modern paradise vibe of W Maldives. This hip aqua collection is available via W THE STORE at all W RESORTS IN ASIA PACIFIC.

SEEKING INSPIRATION AT W MALDIVES

BEATS OF PARADISE The tech-savvy equivalent of scribbling lyrics on a cocktail napkin, the first-ever W SOUND SUITE has made its sonic debut in Bali, a creative hub that shares the same spirit as Ibiza. The private music studio and writer’s room at W BALI – SEMINYAK is the place for professional recording artists, producers and hotel guests to record in style while on the road. By creating a program that gives Indonesian artists free studio time on a monthly basis, the space has embraced the local music scene. The stylishly sound-proof suite features a lounge big enough for a proper entourage and a mixing room stocked with professional equipment from industry favorites Native

W HOTELS

Instruments, Pioneer and Moog, plus a vocal booth overlooking a tropical garden. To celebrate the launch, W Bali is hosting a new content series in collaboration with upcoming artists called “Sounding Off With…” where monthly video vignettes will capture podcast-style conversations to provide a rare glimpse into the life of a touring artist. LA-based electronic indie duo CLASSIXX will kick off the series and throughout the year, W Bali plans to bring together hot musical talent from around the world to produce exclusive mixes, premiere new tracks and deliver intimate in-studio performances that will be available via THE ANGLE (theangle.

SOUND SUITE

whotels.com), an online magazine celebrating life with a W slant. Sound Suite guests can kick back and indulge in cocktails and bites from the everso-cheeky “Rider Menu” inspired by iconic music personas, including THE DIVA (Lanson Brut Champagne, Lobster Salad with Osetra Caviar & lemonade), THE HIP HOP CLASSIC (Ciroc Ultra-Premium, Cranberry, Wagyu Beef Sliders & Truffle Fries) and THE JAZZ HANDS (Coca-Cola Bombay Mocktail & Iberico Jamons).W hotel guests who book the W Sound Suite can turn their sonic imaginings into reality with a private master class from W Bali’s MUSIC CURATOR DAMIAN SAINT.

SLEEP. EAT. RECORD. REPEAT.

04 05 EXPLORE WHOTELS.COM

W KOH SAMUI

DETOX, RETOX, REPEAT THE ENERGY TO LOOK GOOD, FEEL GOOD, GO LONGER, STAY LATER

FUEL YOUR WORKOUT W BEIJING

DESIGNED TO SUPERCHARGE EXISTING REGIMES, FUEL DELIVERS REVAMPED FIT SPACES WHERE GUESTS CAN MASTER THE LATEST FITNESS CRAZE SO WORKING OUT NEVER FEELS LIKE A CHORE. W BANGKOK

W SINGAPORE

W HONG KONG

W MALDIVES

W TAIPEI

W BANGKOK

FUEL YOUR BODY

W BEIJING

LIGHTER, FRESHER CUISINE INCLUDING HEALTHY MIDNIGHT MUNCHIES AND GUILT-FREE MORNING AFTER SNACKS MEAN YOU CAN INDULGE AND FEEL GOOD ABOUT IT. MAKE YOUR OWN SMOOTHIE AND AVOCADO BREAKFAST FOOD TRUCKS INJECT A BANG ON TREND, FUN ELEMENT TO FOOD.

W BANGKOK

W KOH SAMUI

W HONG KONG

W KOH SAMUI

FUEL YOUR GLOW MINI FEEL-GOOD TREATMENTS BY THE POOL IN POP UP SPA TENTS AND QUICK FIX BEAUTY TREATMENTS LIKE BLOW OUTS AND SPRAY TANS IN BEAUTY PODS HELP GUESTS HIT PAUSE AND RECHARGE SO THEY ARE ALWAYS READY FOR WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEXT.

W SINGAPORE

W HONG KONG

06 07 EXPLORE WHOTELS.COM

WED YOUR WAY

W Resorts in Asia Pacific has debuted a bespoke destination wedding program, WED YOUR WAY, that encompasses the brand’s signature style, with music curators and a social media concierge available to nail every last celebratory detail. Available at the most swoonsome W RESORTS – W BALI – SEMINYAK, W KOH SAMUI AND W MALDIVES – couples can abandon the expected, amplify every celebratory moment and say “I do” against the region’s most brilliant backdrops. A new approach to nuptials, brides and grooms can opt for all or

any of four programs, the first being SET THE STAGE, the ultimate stag night or hen do with a W Insider transforming staid tradition into an electrifying send-off. With the second progam and main event, VOWS WITH A VIEW, beat-loving brides and grooms can abandon the bridal march and cheesy chart music for a happening wedding soundtrack produced in collaboration with a W MUSIC CURATOR as they tie the knot. W Insiders are on hand to arrange personalised wedding favors, while W’s whatever/whenever philosophy ensures the happy couple can

get their happily ever after. When the ceremony’s a wrap, the party gets started with THE BEAT GOES ON AT WOOBAR, where sumptuous late night W Bites soak up the champers and W’s signature cocktails. Wedding revelers can fight that morning after feeling with special hangover kits or couples can arrange a celebratory hangover brunch to keep guests buzzing the next day. Wondering where to honeymoon? Let the W INSIDER arrange a spectacular suite, tailored itinerary and even a private helicopter transfer with OVER THE MOON.

THE TAIPEI EXCHANGE W TAIPEI partnered with THE WW CLUB, a platform that unites and inspires women working in creative industries, and multimedia travel publication SUITCASE to connect working women globally via THE TAIPEI EXCHANGE. During the East-meets West cultural exchange, five female entrepreneurs from the US and UK exchanged perspectives with Taiwanese creatives and embarked on a five-day high energy itinerary that showcased the best of Taiwanese culture. The talents from Taiwan included Wina Chen, W Taipei’s Director of Operational Excellence, and Florence Lu, Editor-in-Chief of Elle Taiwan. Their overseas counterparts included Phoebe Lovatt, Founder of The WW Club and and Alice Levine, TV and radio presenter for the BBC. The cross-cultural get-together incorporated an exclusive city tour by W Taipei Insider Sally Pan and individual itineraries dedicated to design, beauty, and food. The exchange concluded with a panel event open to the public that zoomed in on two topics: “Women who Travel” and “Women in the Workplace”. It also featured an exclusive gala dinner featuring a contemporary Cantonese menu at W TAIPEI’S YEN CHINESE RESTAURANT.

08 09 EXPLORE WHOTELS.COM

THE HOUSE ON SATHORN THE HOUSE ON SATHORN AT W BANGKOK is the Thai capital’s latest culinary experience destination, where artisanal Asian-inspired cuisine and cocktails collide with exceptional art and performance. Inside the 127-year old colonial mansion, signature restaurant THE DINING ROOM is the spot to linger over dinner, and a new tasting menu takes diners on a journey inspired by chef Fatik Tutak’s Asian culinary highlights. THE BAR is Bangkok’s newest hangout for after-work cocktails, while elsewhere in this happening spot, THE COURTYARD is the place for al fresco dining and electrifying nights amplified by live music performances. Exclusive club lounge upstairs offers hospitality suites and private function spaces for intimate dinners and meetings, the most decadent of which is THE CONSERVATORY.

W FASHION WEEK W Guangzhou remixed fashion, music, design and fuel and delivered a sneak peek into what’s new/next at the first W FASHION WEEK. The VIP event featured a Fashion Week Launch Runway show at WOOBAR and Fashion Display at WET BAR, where it showcased the latest from up-and-coming design brands 080 Group, Haze Collection, K-Store, Vasto Fvsion, Goelia and ESMOD.

LA CANTINA

LET IT GLOW

Tacos and tequila were on the menu in Koh Samui at the LA CANTINA pop-up, a Mexican restaurant and bar from W RETREAT KOH SAMUI. Helmed by chef Jaime F. Rojas Lopez, authentic bites and sips delivered South American flavor to The Wharf in Fisherman’s Village where the pop-up was held. Originally from Mexico, Lopez is executive chef at La Moda and has cooked in Michelinstarred kitchens for Alain Ducasse in Paris and Oscar Calleja in Cantabria.

Award-winning glow in the dark artist TOM BACHER electrified W MALDIVES with a residency that showcased his luminous approach to painting. Taking inspiration from the Indian Ocean’s vibrant marine life, starry night skies and phosphorescent plankton, his residency incorprated glowing cockails with nibbles, a ‘LET IT GLOW’ group painting class, private in-room classes for guests as well as a showcase of his previous works in the resort’s art gallery.

TRACKLIST MR HAS, ASIA-PACIFIC MUSIC DIRECTOR // PRINCE – SCANDALOUS DJ GIO, W SEOUL // JAVIER GONZALEZ, SASCHA SONIDO – PANAMERICANA (MAR-T REMIX)

KOREAN BEATS

DJ ORAWAN , W BANGKOK // APPLEBOTTOM – RESOLUTE

W SEOUL – WALKERHILL teamed up with music TV channel MNET to pilot the first-ever DJ tournament show in Korea, ‘Headliner.’ Fusing techno, hip hop and house, DJ KINGMK beat ten other DJs to take the title. The deckmaster celebrated his success in style at an exclusive aftershow event at WOOBAR, W Seoul alongside the other finalists.

DJ ARUN, W HONG KONG // FAZE ACTION VENUS & MARS

DJ DAMIAN SAINT, W BALI // MISS KITTIN, THE MARTINEZ BROTHERS STUFF IN THE TRUNK FEAT. MISS KITTIN (ORIGINAL MIX) DJ ARMANDO W KOH SAMUI // BALDO - THE CHANGE (JACQUES RENAULT REMIX)

STYLE BUZZ W SEOUL – WALKERHILL showcased the latest in cuttingedge fashion and music to Korea’s cool set at Style Icon Asia (SIA) 2016, the region’s only style festival. The event encompassed the unveiling of a limited edition capsule swimwear collection designed by Australian swimwear label, We Are Handsome, for W Resorts in Asia Pacific. W Seoul also introduced local trendsetters to the hotel’s cocktail culture at the SIA X W CAFÉ & BAR, a pop-up that featured beats from W Seoul’s in-house Music Curator Gio Vanhoutte.

DJ MAX W BEIJING // THE BLACK 80S FOR THE REST

DJ CHUN CHUN TAN, W TAIPEI // POGO X POGO ROMANCE

MARC // YOUNGR – OUT OF MY SYSTEM

10 11 EXPLORE WHOTELS.COM

WHOTELS.COM NOW/ AMSTERDAM ATLANTA AUSTIN BANGKOK BARCELONA BALI BEIJING BOGOTA BOSTON CHICAGO DALLAS DOHA FORT LAUDERDALE GOA GUANGZHOU HOLLYWOOD HOBOKEN HONG KONG ISTANBUL KOH SAMUI LONDON LOS ANGELES MALDIVES MIAMI MINNEAPOLIS MONTREAL MEXICO CITY NEW ORLEANS NEW YORK PARIS PUNTA DE MITA SAN DIEGO SAN FRANCISCO SANTIAGO SCOTTSDALE SEATTLE SEOUL SINGAPORE SOUTH BEACH ST PETERSBURG TAIPEI VERBIER VIEQUES WASHINGTON DC NEXT/ ABU DHABI AMMAN ASPEN BELGRADE BELLEVUE BRISBANE CAIRO CHANGSHA CHENGDU COSTA RICA DELHI DUBAI JAKARTA KANAI RIVIERA KUALA LUMPUR LOS ANGELES DOWNTOWN LAS VEGAS MADRID MARRAKECH MILAN MUSCAT GURGAON PANAMA PHILADELPHIA PHUKET RIVIERA MAYA SANTA FE SANYA SHANGHAI SHARM EL SHEIKH SENYANG SUZHOU TEL AVIV XIAMEN XIAN

SOUTHEAST ASIA / AUGUST 2016

The BesT of

editor’s note

AUGUST 2016

F R O M L E F T: T H A N A K O R N C H O M N AWA N G ; C H R I S T O P H E R K U C WAY

THE MORE THINGS CHANGE IN BALI, THE MORE THE ISLAND’S allure remains. As everyone knows, this is not and never has been your typical resort getaway. Bali remains a one-of-a-kind destination, a continually evolving gem in the middle of Indonesia, one with popular beaches; tiered, emerald-green rice terraces; a culture as rich as found anywhere in Asia; and a distinct flair when it comes to food. Our aim in this e-guide is to capture a glimpse of all of these traits, encouraging you to visit, whether it’s for the first time or the tenth. We have stories on resorts like you’ve never seen on this island that already boasts some of the best addresses in the world. We’ve also got the inside scoop when it comes to the fashion and design sense that runs throughout Bali, something that is evident through the work of the Balinese craftsmen and the community of visitors who make the island their home. In “Brand Name Bali” (page 18), explore a side of the island where thoughtfully designed hotels coexist with thriving local life. Here, are postcard scenes where floral oﬀerings litter the sidewalks each morning. For a break from our daily lives, “Transcendence” (page 26) takes us to a side of Bali that proves the island’s best days are not over. At this handful of resorts, calm is the order of the day, reclaiming control of your life the aim. What a goal for your next break.

@CKucway chrisk@mediatransasia.com

From My Travels

There are few better ways to the heart of a traveler in Asia than through his or her stomach. The variety and caliber of cuisine available on Bali underlines that. On a weekend stay at Uma Ubud, I was fortunate enough to order the resort’s healthy version of mee goreng and immediately fell in love with this version of the dish. I ordered it again the next day, while on my final day, the waiter simply looked at me and knew what would power me on my drive to the airport. Like Bali itself, when you’ve got a good thing going, there’s no need to change the menu.

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DEALS | T+L READER SPECIALS

Whether you prefer a beachside dinner for two, a baking class for the whole family or a tropical villa party, these resorts will deliver the Bali experience of your dream.

DINING

St. Regis Bali Resort When it comes to culinary crafts, there’s nothing short of exceptional at this beachfront resort in Nusa Dua, and this offer packs foodies’-favorite experiences into one allinclusive package. Breakfast and buffet dinner at Boneka feature highlights like lobsteregg omelets and Valrhona chocolate fountain, while your daily afternoon tea for two at King Cole Bar pairs Europeaninspired tea selections with delicacies like lobster pie, scones with clotted cream, and homemade praline and ice cream. The Deal Gourmet Pass: two nights in a St. Regis suite, from Rp14,704,000 for two, through December 31. Save 20%. stregisbali.com.

SPA

The Laguna, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa Built around a complex of seven lagoons and pools, this Nusa Dua resort is the place to laze and linger. Start at Lagoon Spa where two of you each receive 60 minutes of relaxing reflexology session, then head over to Arwana Terrace for a romantic dinner for two. The royal treatment progresses with in-suite daily continental breakfast and a lunch of two dishes from the in-room dining menu. Anything else you need, just ask the butler, who’s on-call every minute of the day. The Deal Inspired Tropical Living: three nights in an Executive suite, from Rp14,400,000 for two, through December 31. Save 20%. thelagunabali.com.

Private pool with a view at St. Regis Bali.

SUPER SAVER Padma Resort Ubud This 149-room resort spans 11 hectares across a river valley. Your stay includes a dinner for two, a 60-minute massage for two, afternoon tea and return airport transfers. The Deal Grand Opening: three nights in a Premier room, from Rp8,293,320 for two, through March 31, 2017. Save 40%. padmaresortubud.com

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Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort Situated in Kuta, Bali’s famed surf and party district, the high-end resort prides itself on being the only five-star property in the ’hood. Each of its 203 guest rooms and suits features a commodious balcony where you can lounge and indulge in scenic ocean views. A 60-minute Balinese >>

Unconventional designs woven into Seminyakâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cultured hub

Welcome to the new Hotel IndigoÂŽ Bali Seminyak Beach. Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach is situated on the beachfront in the colourful Seminyak district. Our 270-room resort & 19 villas welcome you to the neighborhood to enjoy our chic living spaces. Our artfully-designed interiors and lifestyle dining venues reflect unique details of our surroundings, including our own beach club and day spa. With Hotel Indigo Bali Seminyak Beach as your home base, experience all the details that make Seminyak a truly extraordinary destination. Coming to the neighborhood on the November 1st, 2016.

Jalan Camplung Tanduk No. 10 Seminyak, Bali 80361 - Indonesia T: +62 361 209 9999 F: +62 361 209 9988

hotelindigo.com/seminyak

massage for two at awardwinning Shine spa is included in the package and should relieve you of any soreness after a day of shopping at Beachwalk mall next door. The Deal Refresh with Shine Spa: two nights in a Deluxe room, from Rp4,560,000 for two, through December 31. Save 30%. sheratonbalikuta. com.

FAMILY

Montigo Resorts, Seminyak Sitting right next to the famed Potato Head Beach Club, Seminyak’s new familyfriendly resort has something for everyone. Children can

have fun at Olo Kids Club, whose access is complimentary starting September, while the whole family can take part in a complimentary baking class per stay. The Deal Montigo Playscape: two nights in an Executive suite, from US$258 for two adults and two children, through December 20. Save 45%. montigoresorts. com. Ayodya Resort Bali If you’re traveling with children, Camp Ananda, the resort’s own children’s club, has a playground, rope jungle and fish pond ready to excite

the little ones and is set right by the beach. This will leave you a whole lot of time to try all the treatments at Ayodya Spa by Mandara, an earthy sanctuary that embraces the four elements of fire, earth, wind and water to help you rebalance and rejuvenate. The Deal Asia Leisure promotion: a night in a Deluxe room, from US$120 for two; book by September 30. Save 25%. ayodyaresortbali.com.

VILLAS

Kayumanis Treat the love of your life to a memorable getaway at one of Kayumanis’s many

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay.

magnificent villa retreats, set in diverse landscapes from the rice terraces of Ubud to the beach of Nusa Dua. Together, the two of you will be relaxing through a 60-minute massage and indulging with an in-villa candlelit dinner. “Standard” amenities here aren’t typical perks: a welcome massage, a daily high tea and a 24-hour butler service to make sure your dream of an intimate escape is flawlessly fulfilled. The Deal Romantic package: two nights in a one-bedroom villa, from US$955 for two, through March 31. Save 20%. kayumanis.com. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay Each of the 147 luxe villas here is inspired by traditional Balinese architecture featuring thatched roofs and a stone-walled courtyard. With intimate features like a private 20-square-meter plunge pool, a sun terrace, an oversized soaking tub and an outdoor garden shower, you might want to extend your stay an extra day, or perhaps week. The Deal Stay Longer: four nights in a one-bedroom villa, from US$1,947 for two, ongoing. Save 25%. fourseasons.com. W Retreat & Spa Bali Seminyak Whether it’s relaxing, partying or working remotely, the 225-square-meter pool villa here fits the bill. You can curl up on the four-square-meter Bale Begong daybed exclusive to this villa, work on your latest project at an oversized desk complete with highspeed Internet, then turn on your Bose surround sound system and dance the night away. Your villa is soundproof, so the neighbor won’t hear a thing. The Deal Stay Longer: four nights in a Marvelous one-bedroom pool villa, from Rp5,100,000 for two, ongoing. Save 20%. whotels.com. — MONSICHA HOONSUWAN

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...where life is a private celebration

exotic & idyllic retreat

Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran

www.thegangsa.com

P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. experience@kayumanis.com

www.kayumanis.com

NEWS + TRENDS + DISCOVERIES

DEBUT

C O U R T E S Y O F T H E S A M ATA

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Samata?

A new resort in Bali is trying to improve our lives, one waistline at a time. BY DAVEN WU

Above a one-bedroom pool villa.

TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM / AUGUS T 2016

/ here&now!/

BALI’S CHARMS blossom the moment the traffic-choked, onestreet towns are left behind, and the journey turns towards either the terraced emerald rice fields, or the white foam-flecked coast. Happily, newly opened The Samata (thesamata.com; doubles from Rp1,630,413) in Sanur offers the best of both worlds. The resort’s entrance is practically lost along a row of unremarkable private residences that are set off a busy highway. Once past the smiling security guards and across a bijou concrete bridge that spans a little stream, the vista opens up tardis-like into a cloistered haven of manicured greenery and white Palimanan stone. Framing the tableau is an expanse of rice fields and, beyond that, the shimmering curve of the ocean. Each of the 10 villas and suites ticks off all the required boxes of a swanky Balinese retreat with thatched roofs made of alang-alang, plunge pools, and cool modern interiors furnished in natural woods; soothing hues of green, earth and sand; some Javanese teak; and soft linens.

But what really sets The Samata apart from the pack is its focus on fitness, sports and healthy living. For starters, three swimming pools are scattered around the grounds: one for laps, one for lolling around postlunch, and one for energetic sessions of aqua aerobics and water Pilates. Manned by a crack team of buﬀ instructors, the spacious gym oﬀers an arsenal of cross-trainers, treadmills and bikes. Or step into the ring for a round of traditional boxing and muay Thai. For exercise and privacy, each room is thoughtfully kitted out with a yoga

AUGUS T 2016 / TR AV EL ANDLEISURE ASIA .COM

C O U R T E S Y O F T H E S A M ATA

Outdoor a two-bedroom pool villa. FROM TOP RIGHT: The master bedroom in the pool villa; fine wood details; seared tuna at Zenso.

mat, skipping rope and muscle relaxation oils. The focus on physical wellbeing continues at Zenso restaurant where resident chef Anton Ventslav serves up a healthy menu. He concedes that there are less healthy options, where saturated fats, and calorie- and cholesterol-rich ingredients are allowed. But you’ll get a vitality kick tucking into meals made of grains, pulses, nuts and superfoods like cacao and berries. An organic farmer delivers spirulina that’s blended into a smoothie with spinach, cucumber and honey to kick-start the day. To ease into the evening, a massage by The Samata’s corps of therapists, all trained by traditional healers from Ubud and Gianyar, is a just reward. “Samata means a state of equilibrium between body, mind and soul,” says Jose Luis Calle, the aﬀable Spaniard behind Lifestyle Retreats that runs the resort. “Whether they come to us to achieve physical balance, diet or simply chill, our goal is to help our guests feel better and recharged.”

/ here&now!/

INTRODUCING

Island Girl

Australian fashion regent Natasha Gan catapults her eponymous fashion label to the next level in Bali. BY IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER . PHOTOGR APH BY JASON REPOSAR GETTING SWEAT Y IN BALI has never looked so sexy, thanks to designer Natasha Gan’s new activewear collection. When Gan relocated to Bali from Sydney in 2010, many in the rag trade assumed the designer, whose creations hung in 80-something Aussie boutiques, was going into semiretirement to raise her kids. Yet Gan—a fashion dynamo who went to vocational school at 13 to study pattern-making and was working in London as a designer for H&M by 21—had no intention of slowing down. In the past five years she’s doubled her distribution network and cracked the critical American market, with Natasha Gan creations now hanging in Neiman Marcus, Urban Outfitters and Free People

stores throughout the Americas. She’s also opened three Natasha Gan boutiques in Bali: two in Seminyak, and one in Nusa Dua, with a fourth opening in Canggu. “I saw an opportunity to take things to the next level in Indonesia,” she says. “It gave me the flexibility of getting my hands on hand-printed fabrics, embroiders, beaders and much better access to digitalprinting machines.” Bali’s aquamarine waters, velvetgreen rice fields and kaleidoscopic fishing boats have also crept into her palette. “Once I moved here my direction really changed and my ranges got a lot more colorful,” Gan says. “It’s always summer and there is so much color in the landscape. I wanted to bring that through in my

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work.” And the heat provided its own inspiration, as Gan looked for innovative ways to stay stylish through Bali’s scorchers. In July she launched Gan Active, a new range of tanks, tees and functional workout gear that looks smart and doesn’t wilt even when the temperature climbs. “It’s sporty but with an urban edge,” the designer says. Gan loves her island home, but as she’s proven from her stint in Sydney, her style won’t stay shackled to just one set of sunny shores. “Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore... in the next two years, I will be launching all across Asia,” she says. Good news for trendsetters in the tropics who want to look the good kind of hot. natashagan.com.au; Gan Active outfit A$130-$200.

©2016 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit sheratonbalikuta.com

Effortless Travel Conveniently set in the heart of the island’s thriving Kuta neighborhood, Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort offers a resort-style, island holiday experience complete with the full range of signature urban experiences. The resort is adjacent to Beachwalk, Bali’s famed and upscale shopping mall, and within reasonable distance from some of the island’s most popular tourist attractions, making it the perfect place to energize yourself on your next vacation. Find out more at sheratonbalikuta.com

SHERATON BALI KUTA RESORT Jalan Pantai Kuta Kuta 80361 – Indonesia T +62 361 846 5555 F +62 361 846 5577

/ here&now!/ THE QUE S T

Follow the Grain Centuries-old tradition infused with individual creative license, wood carving is integral to life on Bali. On the hunt for the perfect mask, it just might be a silent artist who offers the best directions. STORY AND PHOTOGR APHS BY CHRISTOPHER KUCWAY

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Found carvings as

art at Uma by COMO; local flora preserved as a wall hanging; a sculptor at work in Mas.

I’M IN MAS VILL AGE ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF UBUD IN

search of a traditional Balinese wood mask. The smoothfeatured face of a legong dancer, perhaps, or a finely detailed barong macan (tiger king). In either case, I’d prefer the piece to be unvarnished to let the pattern of the crocodile wood, so polished that it almost looks like white marble, speak for itself. Yet, here in Mas, I’m met with perfect silence. The old Balinese wood carver sitting before me doesn’t speak. I’m not even sure he can. He’ll look at me every now and again, staring me straight in the eye, but never utters a word. Instead, he communicates through his works, each as varied as the grains and knots in the wood they’re made from. He’s been carving for about 50 years, I’m told, but no one is quite sure how old he is. Years of squinting have engraved deep lines and ridges into his own face, and I’m guessing he’s in his 80s, older than the acacia or hibiscus he transforms. I never even find out his name. I simply watch the wordless enigma as he manipulates the 20-centimeter piece of wood into a Balinese dancer. A sculpture this size takes three, maybe four weeks to

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finish, depending on the grain of wood and how much detail the carver wants to incorporate. Larger wall hangings or life-sized sculptures can take the better part of a year to create, if not longer. The entire village focuses its working day on wood carving. Stroll along its narrow two-lane streets, and it is impossible not to stumble upon mahogany and sandalwood and gray hibiscus all spilling out into the traffic. The scent of cut wood is everywhere. Shop fronts overflow, woodpiles collapse in on themselves. Everywhere in Mas, there are pieces in mid-evolution, waiting to be turned into artwork. Ornately carved doors I yearn to buy and ship to my old house in Vancouver, hefty sculptures that would look great in my Bangkok flat, Christmas gifts at every turn. Focus, I tell myself. Yesterday’s 90-minute drive from Nusa Dua was just a teaser for what was to come. Both sides of the road were lined with countless stone works. Ganesh. Images of Buddha. Chinese dragons. Bird baths and waterfalls. But stone tips the airline luggage scales into laughable directions, where wood, at least in moderation, is a more

manageable hand carry. Both wood- and stone-carving are a part of daily life here, whether in a family compound or at a centuries-old temple. These are not antiquated traditions resurrected for the tourist trade. Still, outsiders have played their part. Balinese wood carving underwent a transformation in the 1930s and 1940s, with an influx of European artists who spurred the market with their interest in the craft. In his groundbreaking work, Ida Bagus Nyana distorted the human body, shortening some aspects of it while lengthening others. It’s a style that was carried on by his son Ida Bagus Tilem, who moved towards more abstract sculptures of the human form. Just as importantly, even for casual fans like me, he taught dozens of sculptors in Mas that the best can translate their own creativity into the wood; there is no one route to a piece of art, but more of a path each sculptor and his imagination take along the wood’s idiosyncrasies. Around Mas, it’s not uncommon for these skills to be passed from one generation to the next using little more than a dozen small metal chisels and a wooden mallet. Early the next morning, I’m witness to just how integral wood carving is to the fabric of this community when wandering around some of the rice terraces that seep into every vacant corner around Ubud. Even the stilted wood huts farmers use for temporary storage and shelters from the storm come with a devotion to details that’s also apparent at boutique resort Uma by COMO, where wood carving elements are incorporated for both design and as functional pieces. Some found and aged pieces hang as art and simple but smartly designed furniture decorate the villas. Later, we drive north to Pura Tirta Empul, the Hindu Balinese water temple. As intriguing as the temple’s purification pools are, it’s the ornate wood and stone work dating back to the 10th century that stays with me. Sitting there under the tropical sun, I realize I’ve encountered a rich vein of Bali’s history in the short span of two days. I’ve almost forgotten about my original aim of buying a Balinese mask. In the end, I find one with a more modern visage. But I’m giving it away as a gift. I’ll hold on to the memories of my visit.

FROM TOP: A stone carving at Pura Tirta Empul; Uma by COMO uses simple, local designs in its villas and rooms.

THE DETAILS Gajah Bali Gallery The shop has a wide selection of wood carving that is not of the cookie-cutter variety found in many spots. Prices reflect the amount of time spent by carvers, with top-quality Balinese masks starting at around US$250. Jalan Raya Mas; 62-361/982-570. Museum Puri Lukisan In Ubud, the museum aims to preserve and display modern Balinese art,

whether paintings or sculptures: a good spot to visit for a grounding in the topic. museumpurilukisan.com Uma by COMO Take advantage of the hotel’s knowledgeable concierge, an indispensable font of information when it comes to uncovering Ubud’s best artisans and shopping. Jalan Raya Sanggingan; comohotels.com; 62-361/972-448; doubles from US$340.

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Discover the secret soul of Bali

Discover a tropical paradise at our brand new luxury resort on the black sands of the eastern coast of Bali, Indonesia. Overlooking lush green rice paddies and the serene blue waters of Klungkung Beach, Wyndham Tamansari Jivva Resort Bali is a true hidden gem- the perfect setting for a relaxing break, romantic escape or family holidays. Our spectacular beachfront resort features locally inspired rooms, suites and private pool villas with a modern design of Indonesian inspiration. Escape from the ordinary to our tranquil Wyndham Jivva Bali Resort and embrace and exotic island destination that enchants your spirit.

Jl. Subak Lepang No. 16, Pantai Lepang, Klungkung - Bali, Indonesia 80752 t: +62 366 543 7988 f: +62 366 543 7977 e: reservations@wyndhamjivvabali.com wyndhamjivvabali.com | wyndhamhotelgroup.com

NIKOL A KOSTIC

Lounging on the beach front at the Ritz Carlton, Bali.

/ AUGUST 2016 /Luxury and local culture on the Bukit Peninsula | Where to hit the restart button in Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Natural Retreats

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GROUNDED LUXURY AMID THRIVING LOCAL CULTURE? DIANA HUBBELL ASSERTS THAT YOU STILL CAN HAVE IT ALL ON THE EVERMORE-UPSCALE BUKIT PENINSULA. PHOTOGRAPHED BY NIKOLA KOSTIC

Waiting for a bite in Jimbaran.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Sofitelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spa;

plump prawns at Sofitel; a RitzCarlton balcony; standing tall at Nikki Beach; shockingly understated Bulgari; Bulgari serves rich treats.

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and this is just a lowercaste wedding,” whispers Tasya, who with her friend Tommy is one of my two partners in gluttony for the day. We’ve been delayed in our quest for babi guling by a swarm of women in towering, gilded headdresses and embroidered sarongs that has invaded the street. This being Bali, the rickety motorbikes and cars part for the procession, rather than the other way around, and just like that a major road is closed until who-knows-when. “At an upper-caste one, the ornaments are even higher and even heavier.” “There’s always something unexpected going on around here,” Tommy says. Maybe, but these guys have volunteered to take me down Nusa Dua’s narrow alleys for some real Balinese food—specifically a porcine extravaganza—and our destination, Warung Pak Dobeil, is just a little shack rumored to have long lines by 11 a.m. My stomach and nerves are grumbling at the delay, still the romantic in me is thrilled by this serendipitous cultural encounter. On an island where luxury tourism just keeps growing, it’s a shock to the senses to see the real world, still raw around the edges, minutes from all those Instagram-candy infinity pools. Bali booms, but you already knew that. The Bukit Peninsula is turning into a high-stakes arms race as each five-star competes to outshine its neighbors. It’s a Who’s Who in hospitality: Aman, St. Regis, Club Med, Grand Nikko, and the mammoth, three-part Mulia. Newest is the sleek Sakala, as well as a stunning Ritz-Carlton draped down a sheer cliﬀ face by way of a great, glass elevator to a winding series of rice paddy-inspired lagoons. Next door, the concrete skeleton of a 600-plusroom Kempinski looms. Sofitel has just added the island’s only cutting-edge medical spa and a Nikki Beach Club. Meanwhile, even over on Uluwatu, the Alila and the Bulgari Resort Bali are taking the surf locale upscale. Bali is no untrammeled oasis, but there’s something grand about its current incarnation where some thoughtfully designed hotels coexist alongside patches of a thriving local life, where the best lobsters come from the docks and not an airplane, where floral oﬀerings litter the sidewalks each morning, and where some of the most revered restaurants are street-side warungs. Here you can eat truffle-oil-anointed

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In Jimbaran, fishing boats bring their haul to pasar ikan, or the seafood market. OPPOSITE: Nikki Beach club, temple to hedonism, is brand new to Nusa Dua.

sashimi and suckling pig from a makeshift firepit all in the same day. Yes, we at last make it to Warung Pak Dobeil and the promised pork is more than worth the trouble. Babi guling pretty much defines noseto-tail dining: a whole suckling pig is gutted, crammed with spice paste and herbs, then surgically sewn back together before slowroasting for hours. Shards of skin, deep-fried intestines, pork sate, and collagen-rich bone broth accompany the tender meat. Served with an incendiary sambal to cut the fat, this pork is an undeniable affirmation of why I cannot be a vegetarian. It’s all I wanted and more. “You know, it’s a shame for you to come all this way and not try nasi ayam,” Tasya begins. Nasi ayam is the halal equivalent to my piggy feast, though it’s equally popular with nonMuslims. “The place next door is owned by the same family as Dobeil and their version is excellent,” Tommy teases. “We could just try a bite...” Minutes later, a plate of chicken materializes, topped with a hard-boiled egg, peanuts and a glob of chili paste. It vanishes with equal speed. Drenched in sweat and stretching the limits of human stomach capacity, I’m both intrigued and horrified when Tommy and Tasya mention that, although this nasi ayam is good, it isn’t really the best, and it would be a crime to come to Bali without trying the famous Ibu Oki’s rendition. With no turning back now, we weave down the road past whole families piled circus-style on scooters to another unassuming warung with a formidable line. This rendition is saucier and less scorching, though every bit as addictive.

“See, this is the trouble with living here,” Tommy groans. “We can’t eat like this every day, but it’s so tempting.”

ut I can eat like this every day—at least for my time here. Which is why one morning I rise at an ungodly hour to join I Made Suriana, the chef de cuisine at RitzCarlton Bali, as he scours pasar sayur for produce and pasar ikan for seafood. Along the way, he describes the distinct cuisines in this country of 300 ethnic groups and more than 700 languages and dialects. “In Sumatran rendang, they use coconut at the beginning of cooking. If you go to Java, they put a lot of a gula melaka, palm sugar, in,” he says, snatching up half a dozen tiger prawns. “Go to Flores, you’ll see the Portuguese influence. I take a little bit from everywhere, but mostly I am Balinese and I cook Balinese.” Greater and lesser galangal, turmeric root, kaffir lime, candlenuts, roasted shrimp paste and fistfuls of screaming-red chilies are sautéed, puréed, then sautéed again to produce the fiercely aromatic bumbu that forms the backbone of other dishes. “Bruise the lemongrass or there’s no taste!” chef commands. “Now tie it in a knot to make it easier to fish out later.” “Fold your banana leaves this way, not that way. That’s how you know whether the inside is sweet or savory.” “Smell the shrimp paste—it could kill your cat. Then roast it over the grill. Smell the diﬀerence?”

Partner your detox at Vietura medical spa with healthy, locally sourced meals at Sofitel. OPPOSITE: On the Bulgari-accessed beach in Uluwatu, it’s still possible to experience rough and rugged Bali.

We whip up electric-green pandan crepes with braised jackfruit, minced duck meat steamed in banana leaves, tuna sate lilit skewers on lemongrass, nasi goreng, and finally, a bunch of those magnificent salt-water prawns slathered in bumbu. “Now you see why women get to the market well before 5 a.m. to start preparing the food,” chef smirks as I bungle another sate lilit. He takes my mangled fish and wizards it into a pleated shape. My lessons in local brewing continue at L’Atelier Parfums et Créations, where guests create fragrances from combinations of 44 essential oils ranging from spices such as nutmeg and cloves, to flowers like ylang-ylang and frangipani, to woods such as massoia, which smells intensely of coconut, and agarwood, a substance worth more per ounce than gold. “Indonesia is such an important center of raw materials,” eﬀuses Nora Gasparini in her breathy French accent. “About 80 percent of everything here is local.” A striking native of Martinique with a pixie cut framing her petite face and high cheekbones, she has been working with perfumes in Bali since she arrived six years ago. Enigmatic, heady and with a deep sense of place, the scent we concoct together quickly replaces the brand-name staple I’ve been wearing daily for years.

ince I’m already mixing science and beauty, I check in to Sofitel Nusa Dua’s Vietura. While the hotel’s day spa is robed in dark tones and burnished bronze, Vietura medical spa is like a plush doctor’s office with high-tech treatments including cryogenically freezing your fat. My girly side is thrilled when my technician oﬀers dermabrasion with diamond particles, along with a blast of super-chilled oxygen. Though some of the chemistry eludes me, the results speak for themselves: I emerge two hours later shining bright and minus a few stress lines. No detox is complete without a re-tox, especially on this pleasure-centric playground. If you’re going to dive headfirst into Nusa Dua’s pursuit of hedonism, there’s no better place to do it than Nikki Beach, the newest member of the empire that stretches from Ibiza to Phuket. “Understatement” is unheard of in this world of aerialists, models and bottles. On this particular Sunday, the brunch is in full swing. Enviably curvaceous women, in feathered

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headdresses and not much else, shimmy along the bar in stilettos to a saxophonist’s solo. And although the crowd never gets too rowdy, there’s plenty of dancing in and out of the pool before the sun begins to set. “We definitely stand out in Nusa Dua,” admits the appropriately named general manager, Michael Sin, a 16-year veteran of the company who started as a busboy back at the brand’s flagship Miami property, then a regular haunt of A-listers from Madonna to Matt Damon, and has just moved here from Thailand. “Plenty of people asked why we’re not in Seminyak, but I think we’re exactly where we need to be. When we opened in Samui, a lot of people doubted us, and now that club does upwards of 800 people at brunch during high season.”

walk for the better part of an hour before I find the only other inhabitant on a jungled stretch of nowhere. My feet sink into the slope of coarse sand. To my left, huge translucent waves rear up and froth to the ground. To my right, limestone cliffs rise, riddled with crags and choked with a riot of savage greenery. And directly before me, kilometers from any sign of civilization, sits a surfer type with a neon orange tent, his hair so sun-bleached that his brows and lashes all but disappear on his face. His name is Grigori. And while I arrived on the lonely patch of Uluwatu via a five-minute ride on a reopened private funicular, this wayward Russian made his way down to the beach by sneaking through one of the far resorts and clambering down the rough-hewn stone stairs. When I ask if he’s even allowed here, he gestures pointedly to the empty expanse. “Do you see anyone to stop me?” Rough and rugged, Uluwatu still resembles the tropical fever dream that Bali once was. Not that there aren’t cushy amenities. Somewhere on the top of those bluffs sits the eco-gorgeous Alila Uluwatu and the Bulgari Resort Bali, where I am staying. Much to my surprise, the latter is a study in understatement that has little to do with its ostentatious name. Yes, the spa is an intricate, century-old joglo house imported piece-by-piece from Java and painstakingly reassembled on this 160-meter drop-off overlooking the Indian Ocean. If nothing else, it’s a superlative example when it comes to using local, or at least nearby materials here.

FROM TOP: Cool drinks in tropical colors at Nikki Beach; the spa at the Bulgari Resort. OPPOSITE: High above the RitzCarlton, Bali in Nusa Dua.

Bukit, the same kind of coral stone used in many Balinese temples, and bangkiray, a type of mahogany from Java, dominate the all-villa landscape. The resort sports brand-new three- and five-bedroom mansions larger than most boutique hotels with interiors dripping in Italian onyx, but from the outside even these exceedingly luxe abodes are moss-covered and subdued. More than 1,500 ceramics and 80 objets d’art ranging from the Stone Age pieces to the one-tonne copper sculpture by contemporary Balinese artist Made Wianta dot

the 8.5 hectares. Textiles called songket, stitched in gold and silver silk threads, decorate most rooms. Lovely as the resort is, it’s that view and this coastline that steal the show. So transfixed am I by the scenery that I fail to notice the steady advance of the sea. By the time I turn around, the beach behind me has vanished into saline foam. The biblical waves that made this area so beloved by boarders come ever closer. I begin to crawl my way back, bruising each time my body slams against the cliﬀs, fully clothed and drenched through. “Time to make everything change. In the fields, where another Ritz-Carlton is going to be, I used to cut the grass for the cow,” chef Suriana told me back when I first landed. “But something of the old stays, even when the new comes. I still have my village. I told my father, ‘Bring my kid and take him to the rice field.’ I want him to play in the mud there as I did. I want him to know where he comes from.” That it is still possible for the youngest generation to free-play in the paddies like their parents did, to even here on the Uluwatu shore find a place this wild, to be half-terrified and fully alive, is truly something. Salt-crusted and wind-battered, I hold tight and let the next wave come.

THE DETAILS STAY The Ritz-Carlton, Bali 3 Jln. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Sawangan Nusa Dua; 62-361/849-8988; ritzcarlton.com; doubles from Rp5,292,000. Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort N5 Jln. Nusa Dua, Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua tourism complex; 62-361/849-2888; sofitel. com; doubles from US$239. Bulgari Resort Bali Jalan Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu; 62-361/847-1000; bulgarihotels.com; villas from Rp9,450,000, two-bedroom mansions from Rp50,000,000, five-bedroom mansions from Rp135,000,000. The Sakala Resort & Villa Bali 95 Jln. Pratama, Tanjung Benoa, Nusa Dua; 62-361/775-216; sakalaresortbali.com; doubles from US$120. Inaya Putri Bali Traditional Balinese style infuses every bit of this stylish newcomer. S3

Kawasan Wisata Nusa Dua; 62361/774-488; inayahotels.com; doubles from Rp1,727,750. EAT AND DRINK Warung Pak Dobeil 9 Jln. Srikandi, Nusa Dua; 62-361/771633; babi guling for two Rp60,000. Warung Merta Sari Buana 9 Jln. Srikandi, Nusa Dua; 62-361/778278; nasi ayam campur for two Rp40,000. Warung Nasi Ayam Ibu Oki 27 Jln. Siligita, Nusa Dua; 62361/805-2059; nasi ayam campur for two Rp40,000. Bumbu Bali One It may cater to international guests, but that doesn’t make the food at this iconic Indonesian restaurant from cookbook author Heinz von Holzen any less authentic or enjoyable. Bumbu Bali One and Two are located within a kilometer of one another on the same street and sport identical menus, though the former has a bit more ambience.

Order the the rijstaffel for the full experience. Jalan Pratama, Tanjung Benoa; 62-361/774-502; balifoods.com; rijstaffel menus from Rp550,000. The Beach Grill Simple, beautifully executed seafood dishes overlooking the Indian Ocean. Order the lobster linguine. The Ritz-Carlton, Bali; ritzcarlton. com; dinner for two Rp765,000. Il Ristorante Contemporary spins on Tuscan classics from chef Nicola Russo. Bulgari Resort Bali; bulgarihotels.com; four-course tasting menu Rp850,000. Nikki Beach Bali Every day is a party, but in laid-back Nusa Dua it tends not to run late. Though the club stays open well into the night for special events, on regular days it shuts its doors at 7 p.m. Sunday brunch is well worth getting out of bed for, both for the spectacular spread and peoplewatching. Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort; 62-361/849-2900;

nikkibeach.com; Amazing Sunday Brunch Rp350,000. DO Cooking class The Ritz-Carlton, Bali; ritzcarlton.com; cooking class with lunch US$90. L’Atelier Parfums et Créations The Ritz-Carlton, Bali; 62361/849-8988 ext. 3941; perfumeworkshops.com; 90-minute workshop and 30 milliliters of custom perfume US$80. Vietura Sofitel Bali Nusa Dua Beach Resort; 62-361/849-2988; facebook.com/ VieturaAestheticLifestyleBali; one-hour Micro Exfoliation facial US$60. The Spa Bulgari Resort Bali; 62361/847-1000 ext. 6601-6602; bulgarihotels.com; two-hour Balinese Four Hand Massage US$325.

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Transcendence Rising above prosaic daily life, and Bali’s hectic south, HOLLY MCDONALD hits the restart button at some of the island’s more remote natural retreats.

Seventy gardeners maintain the greenery at COMO Shambhala Estate. OPPOSITE: The black sand beach of Spa Village Tembok.

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY LAURYN ISHAK

FROM LEFT:

Welcome to Spa Village; descend to the Ayung River from COMO Shambhala. OPPOSITE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Spa Village’s infinity pool, and traditional lulur body scrub; COMO Shambala hosts Balinese dancers, and, Sandy, its golden retriever..

WE’VE WOUND OUR WAY UP INTO THE

orange-grove laden mountains of Kintamani, passing views of Lake Batur, scenes of traditional rural life and glimpses of volcanic peaks. Shrines are wrapped in black-and-white checked fabrics, shaded by golden umbrellas. Hibiscus flowers wend over stone carvings. Mossy walls shield family compounds with cocks strutting outside. We pass small plantations of cacao, papaya and bananas until the mist of mountains gives way to an ocean panorama. All of this beauty is why I get so defensive when people insist the crowds of the south mean Bali’s best days are over. The interior and the north are the island’s retort to those maligners. I’m juicing, stretching and bird watching my way through three natural-living retreats, which despite occupying varied landscapes—blacksand beach, oceanic protected park, lush hilly interior-collectively encapsulate the gentle spirit of Bali, away from the busy, mercantile south. A three-hour trip to the northeastern tip from the hectic Kuta area has allowed me to relax into the full gamut of the island’s geography before arriving at Spa Village Resort, where I’m enrolled in a short version of its “School of Life” program. Like many, I live a relentless march of deadlines and parenting, with little time for reflection. My time here is a whirl of healthful meals, spa, classes and quiet time to allow me to recalibrate my life, to hit the restart button. That begins with a black-sand cleansing foot ritual, to rid me of any negativity arising from the earth. Then my legs are smothered in red clay and I’m left alone for 10 minutes. All I can do is listen to music, eat my frozen watermelon and sip my ylang-ylang flower water. It’s an induction into stillness. Later, two therapists are filling the bath in my room, so I sit outside on my veranda overlooking a lotus pond to read. But there’s

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not enough light, so I’m left yet again, listening to insects, and voices drifting over the lawn and through the frangipani trees. Sheer torture. But I’ve mind-melded into my surrounds by the time I step into the bath, a detoxifying blend of volcanic clay, the leaves of various local plants and the essential oils of neem, piper beetle, turmeric, tea tree, citronella and patchouli. I am becalmed, centered and en route to a more healthful me. Spurred on by the thought of seeing a sunrise over black sands scattered with local jukung (outrigger fishing boats), I pull myself out of bed for an early morning swim. As much as I’ve been trying to abandon my phone, I’ve got to break my moratorium to Instagram this dusty rose sunrise. From the beachside, infinity-edged pool, the horizon seems liquid as the day slowly asserts itself. I attend a class to learn the basics of pencak silat, an ancient Balinese martial art; I practice swing yoga, swaying in a hammock-like contraption by the sea. Both classes are such hard-core sessions, so focused on learning precise moves and postures, so far removed from even the strict routine of my usual Bikram yoga—that I feel like I’ve had a good physical as well as mental workout. Using a mortar and pestle, I pound fresh galangal, cloves and soaked rice to make a headily aromatic body scrub. It’s about body and earth: back to the basics of life. Throughout my stay, I’m sipping herbal teas from a flask I’ve been instructed to carry with me at all times, or staﬀ members are chasing me down to hand me freshly shucked yellow coconuts, the kind used in Bali’s many ceremonies, reputed to have greater healthgiving properties than your standard young green coconut. It’s hydration on hyperdrive. On my final morning, the hotel arranges a visit to a local white-bearded Balinese healer at his home. The massage session, on a simple mattress behind a privacy sheet hanging from the roof, is intuitive and strong; the healer, Ketut, eventually gives me a diagnosis. “Your chakras are all alive.” It’s a welcome surprise, since I usually feel like I’m playing catch-up. The subtext seems to be: “Get ahead of life. What are you waiting for?”

THE GUIDE IS PATIENT IN DIRECTING

our binoculars to the right spot. It takes a moment but finally we see them: two endangered Bali starlings perched at the top of a tree. We can see their drooping, distinctive

The silence

of the water

is a meditation

in its own right,

allowing contemplation without distractions

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Treehouse living at COMO Shambhala. OPPOSITE: Plying the waters near Java from The Menjangan.

T R ATVREALVAENL DA LNEDI LS EUIRS EUARSEI AAS. CI AO. M C O/ MA U / GJ U U SL T Y 2016

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white crests, the blue patches around their eyes and their black-tipped wings. They are stunning. While estimates vary, only around 100 remain in the wild and these were likely released from captivity as part of the resort’s breeding program. I no longer resent getting up at 5:30 a.m. to go bird watching. West Bali National Park in the island’s far northwest makes for a different kind of back-tonature getaway. I’m staying at The Menjangan, seaside in the park, where aside from bird watching, horseback riding, diving, snorkeling, hiking and just beachside chilling are on offer. Getting here has taken me through an under-touristed part of Bali. Thanks to its proximity to Java, around the western port of Gilimanuk and across Bali’s flat northern coast, there’s more of a Muslim influence here than elsewhere on the island: curved domes of mosques grace the main road every now and again; I pass cycling school boys wearing embroidered skullcaps, and catch the wafting strains of a haunting call to prayer. From the resort, my snorkeling trip to nearby Menjangan Island, a highlight of the national park, begins with a 30-minute boat drive during which we spot a pod of dolphins jumping in the distance. Once in the water, our guide points out a massive pink stonefish crouched in the sands meters below. The soft corals of brilliant blues, greens and pinks plus the array of fish are astounding. At one point, I spy three distinct schools of fish, each on top of the other: swirling silver trevally, yellow and white angelfish, and another electric-blue type of fish. It’s like a swimming rainbow. At our next stop, we follow a massive drop off along its edge with another dense coral garden and again loads of life. The sun emerges from a cloud and rays light up the scene, fish glistening. There are trumpet fish, sea anemones, large grouper and parrotfish mauling the harder coral. It’s a thrilling bombardment; the silence of the water is a meditation in its own right, allowing for contemplation without any distractions. Back on board, we devour our lunch of pepes ikan, or fish steamed in banana leaves, before zipping back for a reflexology session in the mangrove-set spa, where I drift off listening to lapping waters and chirping birds. Sunsets are lazy affairs here; I take a lounger for happy hour, sipping on a rosella margarita and watching frolicking deer. “Menjangan” means deer in Indonesian and the park is home to Javan rusa and Indian muntjac

(barking) species. A single jukung bobbing oﬀshore makes for a perfect photo, the low tide shows the mangrove roots in their gnarled glory, and Java’s volcanoes glow pink-purple. I’m staying at a lodge oﬀ the beach, a few minutes away by the resort’s safari minibus. After dark, I clamber up to sit on the roof, spotlights ablaze to highlight any wildlife. During the day I see wild chickens, monkeys and more deer, but this evening I spot only frogs and insects. They may not be the most glamorous critters, but they bring the night to life with their humming stridulations and baritone harmonies.

MY BUTLER SETTLES ME INTO MY ROOM.

Though, that’s almost an inappropriate description of this vast, wooden, serene space overlooking a palette of greens and a rushing creek with a roar as soothing as surf. It seems cruel to advise leaving this sanctuary as soon as I’ve dropped my bags, but the butler suggests that I head straight to yoga, and I have to admire her efficiency in getting me to actively unwind; COMO Shambhala Estate is a wellness retreat, after all. Programs here cater to an individual’s needs; I decide to focus on exercising and eating only raw foods. So oﬀ I hustle to the yoga pavilion, which overlooks an undulating spread of landscaped gardens. A storm plays out on the horizon and the natural drama is so compelling that it’s hard to concentrate on our instructor, Mark. But our class falls into a rhythm of postures, deeply breathing the oxygen-heavy air, and I’m glad I’ve plunged right in. And Mark says: “It’s not about seeking happiness, or avoiding unhappiness. We can seek, instead, transcendence. We may be happy or unhappy, but this will pass. We can touch it and let it go if we can transcend it.” This is wisdom I’m ready to hear after spending an unusual amount of time pondering such matters in previous days, and there’s a joy in discovering a vague feeling you have being put into just the right words; most of the time, I have to admit, bursts of philosophy during yoga class merely irritate me. I’ve been anything but irritated on this drift through the best of Bali’s natural oﬀerings, let alone here at COMO. A fairyland-like lawn sprawls down to the Ayung River and mistspray from a nearby waterfall creates a rainbow in the early morning sunshine. It feels mythical, a step away from the real world where the possibilities are endless. It’s a vision

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

A Beach villa at The Menjangan; vegan pizza at COMO Shambhala; dreamy Spa Village; a Menjangan kayak in West Bali National Park.

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BELOW: Horseback

riding and snorkeling at The Menjangan. OPPOSITE: Chilling beachside at The Menjangan.

so singularly beautiful that I instinctively secrete it away, tuck it into a mental vault to unwrap and peer at later when the mundane of everyday life gets to be too much. We pass a spring that is the source of all water on the property—including swimming pools. It’s this native hydration not to mention 70 gardeners, a full fifth of the staﬀ, that maintain this natural green. From the breakfast restaurant I can see green paddy skimming the top of the ridge opposite; the scene is awesome, in the older sense of the word. On evenings, the estate’s grounds become templelike, flickering with candles lit in symmetrical lines, the grounds reverently hushed except for plump frogs thrumming in the lotus ponds. It’s perhaps my immersion in such Zen-like surrounds that leaves me not just open-minded at the prospect of a strictly raw diet, but also thoroughly enjoying it as well. A raw lasagna, for example, is a little green and red package bursting with flavor, layers of finely slice zucchini, semi-dried tomatoes, a creamy nut dressing, two kinds of pesto on the side and a watercress herb salad. A simple soup of almond, pine nuts and green herbs garnished with green grapes and flaked almonds has a wonderful depth. One evening I order a Caesar salad that comes with “nut cheese.” It sounds dreadful but it’s so good I’m soon Googling to see how I can make it myself at home-something I know I can do with the beverages, at least. I attend a juice-making class, and weeks later I’m still making the chef’s recommended 2 p.m. pick-me-up: a blend of orange, lime, turmeric, ginger, cayenne pepper and flaxseed oil. It’s a small thing, but a real life change,

much like the after-eﬀects of the deep tissue massage (with a facial, naturally) in which I ask for special attention to be given to releasing my hips. When I attend my next Bikram yoga class back home, I definitely feel more flexibility in my hip flexors; I’ve liberated new territory. In fitting with the Balinese dualistic view of the world (the black-and-white checked fabric used so often in temples is meant to demonstrate precarious equilibrium), where opposites are equally important, my time at COMO has been a blur of sumptuous exertion and relaxation, indulgence and abstinence— that’s balance, right? On my final morning, I’ve been pummeled, blasted and shot. My muscles are jelly after 45 minutes of intense aqua therapy in a warmed outdoor pool. Now wrapped and draped in several white fluﬀy towels, I recline on a lounge bed, depleted but blissed out, a cocoon of calmness gazing at birds fluttering from palm tree to palm tree. I’m afraid I’m very happy. And it’s going to be hard work to transcend it.

Bali

WEST BALI NATIONAL PARK

TEMBOK

PAYANGAN

SEMINYAK DENPASAR AIRPORT

20 KM

STAY

Spa Village Tembok Bali Jln. SingarajaAmlapura No. 100, Desa Tembok, Buleleng; 62362/32-033; spavillage resort.com; “School of Life” program, double, from US$400 per night. The Menjangan West Bali National Park, Jln. Raya Gilimanuk,

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Singaraja Km 17, Buleleng; 62-362/94-700; themenjangan.com; double from US$373 per night. COMO Shambhala Estate Banjar Begawan, Payangan; 62-361/978888; comohotels.com; “Discover Daily” program, doubles from US$700 per night.

M A P B Y WA S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N

THE DETAILS

HIDDEN BALI

Volcanoes, paddies or farms, beaches, rivers or cliffs: Bali offers plenty of tranquil retreats in breathtaking natural surrounds. The short trip up Bali’s southwest coast to beachside Alila Soori offers sweeping views of volcanoes and paddies; once you arrive, rejuvenation time in the hushed spa is essential. Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan; 62361/894-6388; alilahotels.com; doubles from US$508. It’s one of Bali’s older hotels, but the Amankila, backed by Mount Agung and set hillside on the east coast, draws loyal guests like bees to honey. While away time on the black-sand private beach, at the three-tiered pool or ensconced in classic luxury. Manggis; 62-363/41333; aman.com; doubles from US$968. Nine-suite, riverside Fivelements offers a stunning riverside location with a world-class raw food and vegan restaurant and an array of holistic treatments. Puri Ahimsa Banjar Baturning, Mambal; 62361/469-260; fivelements.org; doubles from Rs3,174,867. Set on the limestone cliffs of Bukit in the far south, Karma Kandara Resort offers spectacular views; book time at their sauna and private pool to savor one of Bali’s most amazing outlooks solo. Jln. Villa Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan; 62-361/848-2200; karmakandara.com; one-bedroom villas from US$475. In the cooler hills of Bali’s interior, stay in a bamboo hut on its own hill surrounded by spiky pineapples and rolling farmland at The Organic Farm Bali; roast marshmallows in a bonfire and the kids can sleep in their own tent. Jln. Munduk Lumbang Angseri, Baturiti; 62813/3894-3030; theorganicfarm bali.com; doubles from Rp200,000 per night for two nights.

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