November 2012

Cocktails at Ku DĂŠ Ta overlooking the heart of Singapore, page 90.

Volume 06 / Issue 11

Contents

November 2012 Features 84

An Island for the Arts George Town, writes robyn eckhardt, is home to an emerging arts scene, delicious food and memorable architecture. photographed by david hagerman. map and guide 93

94

Phuket by the Dozen Thailand’s popular getaway offers resorts of every description and for every budget, so simon ostheimer heads off in search of 12 of the top addresses. photographed by brent t. madison

102 All the Architecture in China They are stunning, and they’re going up faster than ever—avant-garde buildings by an all-star roster of both international and Chinese architects.

108 Ticket to Glide Want to go skiing this winter but don’t know where to start? Here’s the lowdown on how you can make the most o ut o f As ia’s ski r uns. by catharine nicol

113 Mouthwatering Macau There are more than slot machines that need feeding in the popular getaway. hana r. alber ts heads off in search of the hottest new menus. photographed by david har tung . guide 116

122 The Haut-Marais, Paris Off Rue Charlot, kate betts explores buzzy restaurants, formidable food stalls and chic boutiques. photographed by james merrell . map and guide 126

118 Best of the Century Uncovering Taiwan’s history is a journey best made by visiting its 100-year-old institutions. john krich leads the way around the island. photographed by alberto buzzola

joseph giovannini

reports from Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou. photographed by philipp

b r e n t t. m a d I s o n

engelhorn

At the Twinpalms Resort in Phuket, page 94. t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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Contents

dest i nat ions

30

38

48

Bowled Over How do Japan’s famous wrestlers pack on so much heft? scot t ha as explores the sumo secret to staying fabulously flabby.

Bali Bar Crawl holly mcdonald makes a night of discovering Bali's latest and greatest spots to slake your thirst.

Gift Guide With the holiday season upon us, merrit t gurley and diana hubbell list the top 36 gifts for travelers.

Yoga in Yunnan ian explores the best spots to find your center in and around China’s fabled lost paradise.

Plus A Philippine hideaway; staying in shape with martial arts; designer Jessica Minh Anh; colorful resort wear; and more.

Trip Doctor 69

Travel Insurance Is it worth the cost and what is the best coverage for you?

72

Cycling Tours How best to explore Vietnam on two wheels and under your own steam.

76

When Things Go Wrong Travel plans can go awry for even the most seasoned travelers. Here, what to do to get your holiday back on track. by jennifer chen

bak er

78

Fit for Travel merrit t rounds up health-focused smart gurley

phone apps to help fight holiday weight gain.

80

Deals From romantic packages in Bali to gourmet getaways in Malaysia, a variety of room plans to suit every interest. Plus see Nepal astride a motorcycle.

Departments 14 16 … i n b o x 18

e d i t o r ’s n o t e

contr ibu tors

Radar 26

12 …

on the cover The infinity pool at Phulay Bay, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve in Thailand.

Photographed by Chris Cypert.

Decoder 128 Marrakesh The Red City is on a roll: enterprising locals and expats are reinterpreting Moroccan traditions across fashion, architecture, food and nightlife. maria shollenbarger scopes out the scene. photogr aphed by alvaro leiva

134 Last Look An organic and colorful address for Pondicherry.

d aV I d h a r t u n g

Macau’s Kafka Café, page 113.

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Destinations

november 2012 123

Hokk aido 108

122 Paris

marr akesH 128 113 macau

106

VIetnam, 72 84

GeorGe town

baLI, 30

DeSTInATIOn

PAGe

WHen TO GO

WHAT US$5 BUYS

WHO TO FOLLOW

George town

84

the tropical climate is at its best december through march.

a beer at behind 50 Love Lane

@artistaday

Phuket

94

dry season—november to march—is ideal to take advantage of the island’s famous beaches.

surfboard rental for an hour in Kata

@jamiemonk

Hokkaido

108

For perfect powder, hit hokkaido’s ski slopes december through February.

a bottle of hokkaido’s local milk in green tea flavor

@visithokkaido

macau

113

the winter months—november through January—are cooler, drier and free of the area’s infamous typhoons.

a small bet on the roulette wheel

@Whatsupmacau

Paris

122

avoid the crowds by visiting in november or december.

a vintage book from merci’s Café Library

@haveninParis

marrakesh

128

For pleasantly warm days and cool nights, go between november and February.

bangles wrapped in cactus silk from ensemble artisanal

@mymarrakesh

Long Weekend

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Beach

Active

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

Food+Drink

Shopping

Arts+Culture

Editor’s Note

where to find me chrisk@mediatransasia.com @CKucway on Twitter

the ever-evolving shape of asia

O

ne of my favorite things about living in Asia is the fast pace of change always in the air, everywhere from Singapore’s modern streets to the quiet corners—yes, a few still exist—of a resort island like Phuket. That constant change is also one of my least-favorite attributes of modern Asia. A history buff, I’m one of the first to rail against demolishing the past, particularly when you consider what too often replaces it.

This month we have two intriguing glimpses of Asia, one of its past, another of its present. The first—in George Town on Penang—takes a look at the preservation work being done in that historic locale (“An Island for the Arts,” page 84) but, more importantly, how the people, namely the town’s creative set, are breathing new life into what is one of Asia’s most beautiful getaways. There’s another aspect to this story: writer Robyn Eckhardt and her husband, photographer David Hagerman, love Penang so much that they have moved there.

As most know, the flip side of historical Asia—the no-holds-barred race to modernity—is most often found in China these days. Our look at the mind-bending architecture of not just Shanghai and Beijing, but also in Guangzhou of all places (“All the Architecture in China,” page 102), will leave the Great Wall and Forbidden City in your rear-view mirror, at least for the time being.

Asia’s slick new buildings aren’t the only heavy hitters in the region; the martial arts are undergoing a revival. Features editor Merritt Gurley takes a look at Asia’s sweeter sciences (“Fight Club,” page 34), a growing trend when it comes to staying fit and reason enough to give her a wide berth when she wants to show off her latest muay Thai moves. For anyone who prefers moguls, read our guide to skiing in Japan, Korea and China (“Ticket to Glide,” page 108), three excellent locations for a break this winter. And if you’ve ever wondered how sumo wrestlers keep their, ahem, distinct shape, then look no further than our story on what they eat (“Bowled Over,” page 26). Like the architecture in Penang, it’s an age-old recipe for success and one that should inspire you to explore some new horizons this month and in the coming year.— christopher kucway

The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industry’s most reliable sources.

While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.

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At the Okura Prestige in Bangkok.

our next stops

Bhutan

Koh Samui Beijing and Shanghai San Francisco for the food

Contributors

Catharine Nicol

Simon Ostheimer

Brent T. Madison

Joseph Giovannini

Alvaro Leiva

oddest thing about skiing in japan? Every now and then you’ll spot someone on the slopes dressed up as a cartoon character. Usually it’s fully grown men in questionable, figurehugging, furry outfits. first time skiers in asia shouldn’t forget... That skiing here is all about the powder, which needs cold temperatures to be at its most airy. a fun sport Skiing is addictive. It stretches your comfort zones, with the soothing sound of skis on snow in beautiful parts of the world. local souvenirs Don’t forget to bring back a bottle or two of your favorite beer, or frozen Hokkaido seafood.

phuket, really?

Phuket is still great because you can discover your own empty stretch of beach. when on phuket, don’t overlook… The historic Old Town, with its distinct Sino-Colonial architecture, and culinary offerings. most overrated resort offering Thai culinary classes. Skip the hotel lessons and instead hit the market for a true education in taste. at your phuket resort, insist on… Arranging airport transfers.

Haggling with cowboy taxi operators is the worst way to start a holiday.

tropical photo advice Memory is almost free so shoot everything that takes your fancy and edit later. I often hear, “I’ll get it on the way back,” which really translates to “I wish I’d photographed that,” when you get home. in phuket, don’t miss... Restaurants selling local Hokkien mee or roti with curry in Phuket Town. best place for a sundowner I love to go to Paresa. The views are of the Andaman Sea are first class. restaurant worth a taste A favorite is Kruvit Raft, one of the floating restaurants just off Laem Hin pier. Seafood is pulled out of live wells at “local prices.”

sleek skyscrapers or gritty hutongs? I like that space in hutongs is tight, so you’re within breathing distance of real Chinese citizens grilling meat, squatting on stools, just doing what they do.

You get to see the texture of real lives up close. you knew you loved architecture when...

I landed at Yale and found Paul Rudolph’s Art & Architecture building. I was stunned by this great quarry of concrete. It still thrills me. what inspires your work?

The fourth dimension— space that’s just outside our immediate grasp. My designs try for qualities of strangeness and wonder.

mystical marrakesh The city is cool and trendy but still a tunnel into time, filled with traditions, souks and medieval streets. On cooler nights, crowds come out arm in arm to stroll through the evening, like blue-andwhite butterflies. favorite photo subject? The people in the medina are full of character. The sun burns stories onto their faces. the food there is... A magic carpet ride of stewed vegetables and meats in pretty pots.

Since I’m very hands-on, I liked tearing the flatbread and soaking up the dipping sauces. biggest trip regret Not having tea with the locals.

Writer “Phuket by the dozen” (page 94).

Photographer “Phuket by the dozen” (page 94).

Photographer “t+L decoder: our definitive guide to marrakesh” (page 128).

Writer, loft designer and architectural educator “all the architecture in China” (page 102).

‘You’ll spot someone on the slopes dressed up as a cartoon character. usually, grown men in questionable, figure-hugging, furry outfits.’

—catharine nicol

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F r o m L e F t: © C at h a r I n e n I C o L ; © s I m o n o s t h e I m e r ; © b r e n t t. m a d I s o n ; © J o s e P h g I o Va n n I n I , © a LVa r o L e I Va

Writer “ticket to glide” (page 108).

Inbox

a new burma?

Wild story about Rangoon [Last Look, September 2012]. I knew things were changing in Burma, but never thought I’d see the day where someone was making Parma ham in Burma. Like many others, I just hope it’s a sign of the times for that country. f Tom Puntuhong, Bangkok On the Cover I just saw the new October cover on Facebook and it looks great. Glad to see the covers improving these last few months.

Barbara Lee

bali

contact info

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bangkok

not So Fine Print Either I’m going blind or some of your graphics are too small [“How low can you go?” and “T+L’s Top 40 Adventure Outfitters,” October 2012]. I don’t have Superman’s vision you know, so would appreciate it if you could increase the amount of space you give to art! f Jason Ong

Carrying the Cost I’ve come to the conclusion that flying low-cost carriers is best left to family vacations that are at least five days long.

While inexpensive and free of the frills a family doesn’t necessarily need, I’d still choose a major airline for a short trip. In the past, I’ve had to run through airports after enduring long queues with the cheaper carriers and have been delayed too often by them as well.

Michael Sutton

singapore

kuala lumpur

Leading the Way, Sometimes It’s great and surprising at the same time that Asia does so well when it comes to sustainability and conservation [“T+L Global Vision Awards,” October 2012]. I never expected large hotel groups such as Taj and Shangri-La to be spoken of when it comes to environmental leadership and will keep them in mind the next time I book a vacation. All that said, I do wonder when I see locals trashing their own countries. It would be unforgiveable for a visitor to do so. Why don’t Thais, for example, take a stand against littering? Thailand is a beautiful country that often suffers from laziness

All Tied Up Cool, thanks for the lesson in tying a sarong. I never get it right. f Maya Cheong

hong kong

Delve into the Delicious Loved Samantha Brown’s article on cooking schools in Bali [“Bite-size Bali,” September 2012]. I just took my boys to Bali Asli for a trekking tour and didn’t get to do the cooking school but will definitely return. As for bringing your own utensils when hitting street food [“Street Food 101: A Global Guide,” September 2012] I’m not quite convinced.

Who is that organized? Or dare I say it, OCD? If you’re eating street food, I think you’ve gotta be prepared to get your hands dirty but that’s just my opinion.

Marian Carroll

towards everyday concerns about the environment.

Tom Blakely

hong kong

Correction In our November Last Look about the Four Seasons Tented Camp in Thailand, we neglected to credit Think Elephants International, Inc. (thinkelephants.org) for using one of its photographs. The picture is part of the group’s ongoing research in the north of Thailand and we sincerely regret the error.

Got something to say? Tell us at tleditor@mediatransasia.com, travelandleisureasia.com, @TravLeisureAsia. Comments may be edited for clarity and space. f facebook.com/TravelLeisureAsia or t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

editor-in-chief art director features editor senior designer designer assistant editor—digital assistant editor

Christopher Kucway James Nvathorn Unkong Merritt Gurley Wannapha Nawayon Chotika Sopitarchasak Wasinee Chantakorn Diana Hubbell

regular contributors / photographers Cedric Arnold, Jennifer Chen, Robyn Eckhardt, Tom Hoops, Philipp Engelhorn, David Hagerman, Lauryn Ishak, Naomi Lindt, Jen Lin-Liu, Brent Madison, Nat Prakobsantisuk, Aaron Joel Santos, Adam Skolnick, Darren Soh, Daven Wu

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travel+leisure southeast asia vol. 6, issue 11 Travel + Leisure Southeast Asia is published monthly by Media Transasia Limited, Room 1205-06, 12/F, Hollywood Centre, 233 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2851-6963; Fax: +852 2851-1933; under license from American Express Publishing Corporation, 1120 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10036, United States of America. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording or any information storage or retrieval systems, without permission in writing from the Publisher. Produced and distributed by Media Transasia Thailand Ltd., 14th Floor, Ocean Tower II, 75/8 Soi Sukhumvit 19, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoeynue, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: +66 2 204-2370. Printed

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Radar on our

news. finds. opinions. obsessions.

Pa u L b a r b e r a / C o u r t e s y o F d e d o n I s L a n d

each of the nine villas at Dedon Island, in the Philippines, has sliding glass doors leading out to a private patio.

debut

island HideawaY ask german soccer star turned furniture entrepreneur bobby dekeyser how he spends his time at dedon Island—his new nine-villa resort on siargao Island, in the southeastern Philippines— and he’ll wax on about surfing Cloud 9 beach, fishing for lapulapu and paddleboarding to the offshore pagoda. even if your agenda is more relaxed—say, picnic dinners in the mangrove forest or endless spa treatments—it’s all included. Which means your entire stay feels as carefree as a nap in one of the property’s “nests,” handwoven pods that hang from coconut trees. dedonisland.com; doubles from US$1,600, all-inclusive.—sarah spagnolo t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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Radar b e au t y

scents and sensibilitY a picture may be worth a thousand words, but nothing evokes the memory of a place like an aroma. We asked Chandler burr, who organized “the art of scent, 1889-2012”— opening this month at new york’s museum of arts & design (madmuseum.org)—to describe his favorite destination-inspired fragrances, as only a curator of olfactory arts can.

—nate storey

cruising

chantecaille kalimantan

un jardinsur le nil, hermès

Inspiration borneo Fragrance notes thyme, rosemary, vanilla, agarwood and cedar What Burr says “a beautiful patinaed wood, like an Indonesian house that has stood for generations in the heat.”

Inspiration egypt Fragrance notes green mango, lotus, vegetal rush, sycamore wood and frankincense What Burr says “the breathtakingly lovely scent of the sun radiating from the tangy green peel of an unripe mango on the upper nile.”

dolce & gabbana light blue pour homme

ysl paris eau de parfum

Inspiration Italy Fragrance notes sicilian mandarin, grapefruit peel, juniper and bergamot What Burr says “the aroma of the eternal sun-washed mediterranean wrapped in clean 21st-century form.”

Inspiration Paris Fragrance notes Violet, rose, iris and orange blossom What Burr says “glamour with an abstract floral concept of rose and violet— a more contemporary Paris.”

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Bobbing through Burma

the recent flood of tourism to burma has spurred a new wave of cruise options. travelers can enjoy the slow life as they explore the waterways of the historically and ecologically rich country on these luxury riverboats. by merritt gurley t Orient express is currently building the the Orcaella, a 50-passenger ship, which will be joining the long-running Road to Mandalay vessel on the Irrawaddy river in July 2013. orient-express.com; US$5,400 per person for a seven-night cruise.

Backyard Travel has designed a new cruise through burma, from Irrawaddy to Inle Lake, peppering in one-off experiences from hot-air balloon rides in bagan to pottery classes in yandoba. backyardtravel. com; US$3,690 per person for an 11-night cruise.

bagan

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

ver

mandalay

yandoba

Paukan Cruises, by the ayravata Cruise Company, has finished building a 42-meter ship, to accommodate 34 passengers, that will sail from bagan to mandalay; a leisurely exploration of the royal capitals. ayravatacruises.com; from US$1,060 per person for a five-night cruise.

Pilfer Box (n) The drawer or cabinet back home containing the toiletries, sewing kits, eye masks—even hyacinth-scented face spray—that you filched from hotel bathrooms.

travelese n o V e m b e r 2 01 2

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y ri a dd w a r

C L o C K W I s e F r o m t o P : b a C K ya r d t r aV e L ( 3 ) ; C o u r t e s y o F y V e s s a I n t L a u r e n t b e a u t e ; C o u r t e s y o F d o L C e & g a b b a n a ; C o u r t e s y o F C h a n t e C a I L L e ; C o u r t e s y o F h e r m è s

Cruising towards the Awa Bridge.

Radar food

Bowled Over

how do Japan’s famous wrestlers pack on so much heft? scott haas explores the sumo secret to staying fabulously flabby. fights, the tossing of the salt and the parade of warriors, you might as well be watching an intricate religious ritual.

While it may be difficult to picture yourself in a mawashi (thong) inside the dohyū (sumo wrestling ring), you can start to imagine the lifestyle by sampling the sumo diet. these days, the average sumo is almost 2 meters tall and weighs about 188 kilos. how do they get so big? one word: Chankonabe. before you go to a match, take the time to visit one of the many restaurants around the stadium in tokyo that serve the sumo-fattening staple chankonabe. It’s a marvelous

stew, cooked at your table, made up of chicken, beef or fish, and served with green vegetables. once the chicken broth, sake and soy is boiled, and the main ingredients are added, scoop out the bits you want to create your own perfect bowl. Few dishes are as deeply satisfying. you taste the seasonal, supremely fresh ingredients and because you’re the chef, you control the texture, rareness and distribution of the hearty fare. It’s a flat-out delicious feast.

While this high calorie dish is eaten several times a day by one wrestler, you’ll try it as a shared meal with friends. throughout the alleys and streets around the

sumo stadium in tokyo, known as ryogoku Kokugikan, there are dozens of chankonabe establishments, often run by former wrestlers. affiliated with the various stables where fighters are trained, each of the restaurants displays its own photos of famous champions, and are a great way to participate in the mysteries of one of the world’s strangest sports.

Restaurants chanko ouchi 2-9-6 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku; 81-3/3635-5349; dinner for two ¥5,200. chanko tomoegata 2-17-6 Ryogoku, Sumida-ku; 81-3/36325600; dinner for two ¥6,000. ✚

Cou rt esy oF suZu K I-C h a n / n a K a m egu ro; J u n I C h I ta K a h a s h I ; © F e I J e / d r e a m s t I m e . C o m

sumo wrestling these days is an extravagant sport with six seasons—January, march, may, July, september and november— and if you are lucky enough to be in Japan when matches are held, go. Few events are as much fun as watching two enormous men trying to wrestle one another to the ground. each bout lasts mere seconds, but it is a full day of battle. the crowd, sated on chicken skewers and cold beer, shouts out their favorites. sumo wasn’t always so much a gathering of passionate patrons and gamblers. Its roots, like so much of what goes on in Japan, lie in shinto tradition. From the purification that precedes the

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Radar noticed

Homegrown Fashion

Independent asian designers are finding a warm welcome in singapore, with a growing number of boutiques that embrace emerging talent and a locally minded aesthetic. by diana hubbell

From top: Bracelet from eina Ahluwalia’s Byzantine collection; an Indonesianinspired dress by TOTOn; at the MYthology boutique.

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in terms of clothing. It would be fun to see more experimental stuff around here.”

She’s certainly not the only one who thinks so. Last May’s design extravaganza, the Blueprint Trade Show, saw some pretty funky fashions, including local standouts like Mae Pang’s (mae-pang.com) futuristic pieces and Ong Shunmugam’s (ongshunmugam.com) reinterpretations of women’s garments like saris, samfus and kebayas.

One particular scene-stealer from the Trade Show available at MYthology is TOTOn (totonthelabel.com), the eponymous label of Indonesian model-turned-designer Toton Nugroho. Launched in Singapore last season, his brand is already generating serious buzz for its sleek silhouettes and fiercely feminine accessories. The designer’s artful knack for weaving traditional Javanese motifs into his contemporary designs has garnered acclaim from critics across the globe.

From the meticulously detailed embroidery to the high collars, his cultural heritage makes its way into each and every design.

Courtesy oF my thoLogy

Let’s just come right out and say it: Singapore is one stylish city. Take a stroll down the glitzy sidewalks of Orchard Road and you’ll invariably spy businessmen and women decked out in the latest looks from the catwalks of Milan, Paris and New York. In recent years though, the citystate’s fashionistas have begun to gravitate away from the ubiquitous international luxury brands and concentrate more on emerging, regional labels. Smaller boutiques are cropping up, giving up-and-coming Asian designers a chance to shine.

“I have a soft spot for the underdogs, so I am always trying to discover and showcase new talents,” says Apsara Oswell, owner and curator of the newly opened MYthology (my-thology. com), a boutique on Club Street showcasing a carefully selected range of Asian designers, like Dresstronomy (dresstronomy.com), with signature items such as flirty sundresses and versatile gowns, and eina Ahluwalia, (einaahluwalia.com) with intricately wrought, conceptual bracelets and bangles. “Though Singaporeans are usually so well turned out, I do feel that there is a tendency to play it safe

“I’m always drawing inspiration from the richness of the culture of Indonesia. I tried to translate that into the collection by reworking what are considered traditional or ethnic shapes, crafts and fabrics,” Toton says.

This re-imagining of classic regional styles is piquing interest within the local fashion scene. Style blogs like bonjoursingapore.com have praised Toton for being utterly unique and still “maintaining the elegance” while couturetroopers.com described his work as “exquisite, exotic.”

As Apsara points out, “We have the advantage of being a multicultural country, and hence have an immense potential to develop eclectic tastes in fashion.”✚

From top: Inside MYthology; a Dresstronomy creation; jewelry by eina Ahluwalia.

Radar drink

Bali Bar Crawl once the sun sets, the island is just starting to heat up if you head to Petitenget or batu belig to slake your thirst with a spiced cocktail or three. holly mcdonald makes a night of it.

5 p.m. mozaic beach club

The beachside incarnation of Ubud’s culinary institution, Mozaic offers a chilled take on fine dining that’s won over Bali’s modish sunset crowd. Install yourself in a curtain-draped cabana or grab a seat on the deck to bid farewell to the day. If with a crowd, go for one of the punch bowls, such as Heaven Citrus, a blend of rum, tangerine, pineapple, lemon, pomegranate and soda (1.5 liters, Rp500,000). A tapas-style snack by the luminous electric-blue pool should sustain you through to dinner. Jln. Pantai Batu Belig, Kerobokan; 62-361/473-5796; mozaic-beachclub.com.

7 p.m. Petitenget

One of Bali’s newest chic locations, Petitenget oozes an elegant yesteryear charm; think handglazed ceramic tiles, a fluted concrete bar with a Carrara marble top and a separate lounge papered with 1940’s Martinque palm, as per the original Beverly Hills Hotel. Perch yourself at the bar with a lychee martini (Rp95,000) and watch the early dinner crowd preen, or tuck into a meal here yourself—we love the soft flour tortillas with grilled fish, avocado, mango and green chili salsa (Rp45,000) and you will too. Jln. Petitenget No. 40X, Seminyak; 62-361/473-3054; petitenget.net. ➔

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At Lacalaca, a bartender blows off some steam.

Photographed by Nikko Karki

Radar

Book ahead at Mamasan.

Mixing at Mantra.

8:30 p.m. mamasan

Asian-street-food inspired Mamasan opened late last year and remains one of the few places in Bali you really won’t be able to snare a table without a reservation during peak times. Not that organized? Head directly to the gleaming upstairs bar to put their mixologist-designed menu to the test. Pull up a tan-leather lounger, savor the exposed red-brick and wood-panel surrounds, and order one of their imaginative cocktails, such as the Rambling Tart—Chambord, vanilla, strawberry and Prosecco (Rp110,000). Hungry?

Bypass the reservation system by grazing at your little table here; the pork and prawn siew mai (Rp75,000) are divine.

Jln. Raya Kerobokan No. 135; 62-361/730-436; mamasanbali.com.

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Late nights at Mantra.

10 p.m. bistrot

French industrial vintage is the vibe at the tasteful Bistrot; all soft grays, chocolates and orange-red brick. Slip into a high-backed velvet-patterned love seat for an intimate ^ ` ^ or grab a table, tete-a-tete cleverly fashioned from recycled antique sewing machines. The range of signature cocktails includes the Green Beast, a mix of Pernod, cucumber, lemon juice and water (Rp85,000).

The French food here is fab but if it’s getting late you might want to sample a dessert—the Indonesian spiced panna cotta with passion fruit coulis and nougatine (Rp45,000) should give sugar lovers a satisfactory high. Jln. Kayu Aya No. 117, Seminyak; 62-361/738-308.

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11:30 p.m. lacalaca cantina mexicana

Inject a serious dose of cheer into your night with a stop at Lacalaca, where bright pinks, blues, oranges and yellows conspire to light up the one-floor, partly open-air cantina. Cocktails are rumand tequila-focused, putting new twists on old classics.

With apologies to Castro, the bar muddles a vanilla pod, adding tequila, lime, sugar syrup and coke (Rp80,000) to create their Mexico Libre.

A three-cheese roasted zucchini and oregano quesadilla might hit the spot by about this hour of the night as well (Rp65,000). 1 Jln. Drupadi, Seminyak; 62-361/736-733; lacalacabali.com.

1 a.m. mantra

Uber-hip Mantra morphs from restaurant to pumping party as the night goes on, but you can retreat to the outdoor patio if the crowd gets too much. Eclectic furniture, mismatched antique lights and unframed art are thrown together in a grittier and more unstudied way than is usual for Bali. The signature Rocket Mantra (Rp90,000) is fired up with wasabi and the bar snacks are imaginative–the spicy kaffir lime peanuts (Rp20,000) will have you calling for another drink– though the focus is more on drinking in the early hours. Jln. Raya Petitenget No. 77x; 62-361/473-7681; mantrabali.com. ✚

Radar obsessions

Fight Club In southeast asia many combat styles have been around for thousands of years and harken back to kingdoms now fallen, empires won and lost, cultures clashing and combining. merritt gurley takes a tour of the some of the region’s most brutal—and graceful—martial arts.

burma – Bando

Bando is a defensive art, emphasizing self-protection through a collection of animal-inspired fight routines which borrow characteristics from their namesakes; the python move involves a strangling technique whereas the deer maneuver is all about fast reflexes.

Where to learn: Myanmar Thaing Byaung Byan Association; 128 Kyaik Khauk Pagoda Rd., Thanlyin City, Rangoon; 95-94/5003-0502; itbba.org; US$10 per class.

tHailand – Muay thai

Known as the “art of eight limbs,” muay Thai is a flurry of punches, kicks, elbows and knees, each accounting for one of the eight points of contact. The word muay comes from the Sanskrit mavya, which means “to bind together,” perhaps referring to the entangled stances that result during the scrappy combat.

Where to learn: Watchara Gym; No. 9 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 1, Bangkok; 66-81/874-5566; facebook.com/Watchara.Gym; Bt400 per day.

malaYsia – Silat Melayu

Silat melayu umbrellas a variety of different martial art techniques with roots in Malaysia. The practice includes many of the elements from kickboxing, but with the added threat of bladed weaponry. Daggers, machetes, clubs, sticks and chains are all fair game.

Where to learn: Living Tradition, 9 Lorong Kuala Sungai Pinang 4, Penang; 60-04/890-3313; zhong-ding-centre.com; RM2,500 per month; only residential training is offered.

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Illustration by Wasinee Chantakorn

vietnam – Vovinam

A younger sport, vovinam was introduced by a Vietnamese man named Nguyê~n Lô.c in 1938. The moves include a mix of wrestling maneuvers, leg attacks and punching. Vovinam advocates a balance of hard and soft, calibrating attack and defense based on the opponent.

Where to learn: Vovinam Hoa Lu; 2 Dinh Tien Hoang, Saigon; 84-83/893-3007; US$7 per month.

PHiliPPines – Eskrima

Eskrima is a localization of esgrima, the Spanish word for fencing, and focuses on the manipulation of wooden sticks and bladed weapons for maximum impact. Anyo, the group choreographed fight stances, is more akin to dance than combat, though almost as intimidating.

Where to learn: AngLahi Gym; Planet Infinity, at Mother Ignacia Avenue and Scout Reyes, Quezon City, Manila; US$60 per hour.

cambodia – Bokator

Bokator translates to “pounding a lion,” and is thought to have been the martial art of choice for the 12th- and 13thcentury armies of Angkor. Fighters tie a sash, known as krama, around the waist of the uniform; its color indicates the wearer's skill level.

Where to learn: Bokator Cambodia; 1671 Rd. N2, Sangkat Chak Angre Krom, Phnom Penh; 855-12/651-845; US$5 per hour.

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Radar

gift guide

36 Gifts for Four

Types of Traveler

Prices throughout the gift guide are listed in us dollars. retail prices may differ by region. âž”

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C L o C K W I s e F r o m t o P : C o u r t e s y o F J o b y. C o m ; C o u r t e s y o F h e y s . C a ; C o u r t e s y o F r I m o Wa ; C o u r t e s y o F t o n y b u r C h ; C o u r t e s y o F Ly t r o ; C o u r t e s y o F s C o t t e V e s t. C o m ; C o u r t e s y o F Pa r r o t

With the holidays right around the corner, ’tis the season to go gift shopping. From rugged to refined, here are our picks for presents sure to delight your favorite jet-setters, whatever their travel style. edited by diana hubbell and merritt gurley

Radar tHe adventurous traveler

Gifts for that rough-and-tumble traveler who craves danger over Dior and prefers the choppy ebb of uncharted waters to smoothing sailing.

▼ Skeeter Beeter Ultralight Hammock this lightweight hammock with its built-in mosquito net is perfect for camping. grandtrunkgoods.com; $59.99.

◀ Tegra-Lite International Carry-On It will take more than your average adventure to make a mark on this durable Tumi carry-on, made out of the same lifesaving armor used in nasCar. tumi.com; $595.

▲ Rolex Submariner Classy and durable, for the inspired explorer in your life who wants to look sharp even at the bottom of the ocean, this watch is waterproof up to 300 meters. rolex.com; $7,985.

◀ Hybrid Gorillapod

by Joby this flexible grip-anywhere tripod makes it easy to capture the perfect picture or shake-free video, even while you climb a up tree or repel down a cliff. joby.com/gorillapod; $39.95.

ruGGed stockinG stuffers ShaveMate It can be tricky looking sharp on a two-weeklong trek but this razor with shaving cream built in is a good start to staying smooth. shavematetv.com; three for $9.99.

Brooks-Range Field Organizer a useful waterproof nylon organizer is just the thing to keep maps and itineraries in order during a long expedition. backcountry.com; $10.42.

Tilley Airflo Hat with Insect Shield tilley hats can be crumpled or folded into a tube (perfect for stuffing in a stocking) and never lose their shape, or their ability to block uV rays, repel mosquitoes, float and withstand rain. tilley.com; $95.00.

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C L o C K W I s e F r o m b o t t o m : J o b y. C o m ; C o u r t e s y o F r o L e x ; C o u r t e s y o F g r a n d t r u n K ; Courtesy oF tumI; Courtesy oF Ze aL oPtICs

Ion by Zeal ▶ action sports buffs are going to drool over these futuristic-looking goggles with a built-in viewfinder and camera that captures hd quality video and shoots eight megapixel photos, all controlled by glove-ready buttons on the side of the frame. zealoptics.com/ion; $399.

tHe tecHnoPHile traveler

We’ve rounded up few gadgets to lavish on that person in your life who chooses their vacation destinations based on Wi-Fi coverage.

◀ Apple AirPort express the agony of Wi-Fi failure will never befall those with this 9-centimeter-wide hub that provides fast Internet access almost anywhere. apple.com/airportexpress; $99.

C L o C K W I s e F r o m t o P L e F t: C o u r t e s y o F Ly t r o ; C o u r t e s y o F a P P L e ; C o u r t e s y o F Z o m m ; C o u r t e s y o F r Fa b r a n d s ; C o u r t e s y o F K e n s I n g t o n ; C o u r t e s y o F P o W e r t r aV e L L e r ; C o u r t e s y o F s o n y

▲ Lytro Camera there are more all-purpose cameras, but this one brings new technology to the table, capturing the full spectrum of light in every shot, which lets you change the focus anywhere in the picture even after its been taken. lytro.com/camera; $499.

Powermonkey Discovery ▼ Looking for a pocketsize power option? you’ll go bananas for the 107-gram Powermonkey portable electronics charger, with a usb port. powertravellercom; $58.

▲ SmartWatch With a simple lift of a sleeve you can access all your smart phone functionality with the android wristwatch, but the screen is only 3.3 centimeters wide, so get used to scrolling. store. sony.com; $149.99.

◀ Zomm Perfect for people in the habit of leaving their smart phones behind, this wireless leash tethers to any bluetooth-enabled mobile phone and sounds an alarm when separated from the device. zomm.com; $89.99.

▲ Instant Messenger Bag by PowerBag this simple black bag has a built-in battery system that can power up hundreds of different gadgets, with enough juice to charge the average smart phone four times, and as a bonus the flat laptop case is designed so you don’t have to take your computer out for airport security screenings. mypowerbag.com; $179.99. tecHie stockinG stuffers Bheestie Bag For that friend who is both nuts about electronics and a klutz, this handy little bag dries out any gadget that’s been dropped in water. bheestie.com; $20.

ViewerMate this v-shaped, wallet-size smart phone stand can be easily mounted vertically or horizontally to an airplane tray table for hands-free entertainment. viewermate.com; $29.99.

USB Flash Card MP3 Player this plastic sliver looks like a credit card but plays mP3s and stores up to four gigabytes of data. and for an extra fun-factor you can have a custom image printed on the card, be it a holiday greeting or embarrassing photo. usb.brando.com; $29.99.

Kensington Combination Portable notebook Lock this lock will help protect the techie in your life from the heartache of laptop theft. kensington.com; $24.99. ➔

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Radar tHe luxurY traveler

These extravagant gifts are sure to impress even the most high-class country-hopper, and if you have money to burn, you can spring for the whole list!

Parrot Zik ▶ these headphones, designed by Philippe starck, are wireless, soundcanceling, touch-controlled and pair with your smart phone with a simple tap to the left ear cup. parrot.com; $399.95.

▼ Floating Logo Polarized Sunglasses, Diopside Classic david yuman frames and 100 percent solar polarized green gradient lenses take these already stylish shades to the next level. davidyurman.com; from $995.

Cashmere Travel Pack by Madeleine Thompson ▶ Indulge your love for literature as well as travel— these gorgeously soft packs each come with a special edition of one of F. scott Fitzgerald’s novels. madeleine-thompson.com; from $145.74.

Rimowa Salsa Deluxe ▶ this sleek take on the iconic design features a built-in tsa lock, allowing airport security to search the suitcase without breaking the lock. rimowa.de; from $476.

◀ USB Flash Drive Cufflinks by Ravi Ratan geek-chic at its finest, these two-gigabyte, engraved cufflinks are great for the discerning technocrat. cufflinks.com; $100.

classY stockinG stuffers Otis Batterbee Sleep eye Mask squinting takes the edge off of elegance, so best invest in this lavender-filled blackout travel eye mask. otisbatterbee.com; $73.

MG Travel Cosmetics Leather Hytra Wallet this wallet-size cosmetics case is fully loaded with all the products a traveler needs to stay fabulous in transit. travelcosmetics.com.au; $65.99

Amanda envelope Continental Wallet ▶ a mix of fashion and functionality, this leather wallet by tony burch is perfect for holding your boarding pass, passport and credit cards. tonyburch.com; $195.

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Rollerball by Travalo ▶ this little perfume porter lets the traveler bring their favorite scent with them, without running the risk of breaking the bottle. travalo.com; $26. ➔

C L o C K W I s e F r o m t o P L e F t: C o u r t e s y o F Pat e K P h I L I P P e ; C o u r t e s y o F m a d e L e I n e t h o m P s o n t r aV e L Pa C K ; C o u r t e s y o F r I m o Wa ; C o u r t e s y o F C u F F L I n K s ; C o u r t e s y o F t r aV o L o ; C o u r t e s y o F t o n y b u r C h ; C o u r t e s y o F d aV I d y u r m a n ; C o u r t e s y o F Pa r r o t

◀ Men’s Complications Watch in Rose Gold by Patek Philippe an elegant design with luxe touches, like a hand-stiched brown alligator-skin strap, a sapphire-crystal case back and plenty of gold, make this timepiece heirloom-worthy. patek.com; from $67,850.

Radar tHe PraGmatic traveler

You know that super-organized friend of yours? The one with the color-coded binder full of laminated itineraries? Well there’s a page in that binder labeled “wish list” with a detailed account of each of these items. And these life-savers aren’t just for hyper Type A personalities; every globe-trotter you know would benefit from these practical presents.

▼ Pack Windbreaker With a whopping 17 pockets, this easy-to-fold windbreaker can store all your travel gizmos and gadgets. scottevest.com; $75.

▲ Leatherman TravelFriendly Multi-Tool this handy device has the functionality of eight different gadgets, ranging from wire-cutters to a bottle opener, and fits in snuggly your pocket. leatherman.com; $20.

◀ Kindle Fire HD Leave the hardcover tolstoy at home and shave a kilo off your luggage by bringing a Kindle Fire with 1280x800 hd display and dual-band Wi-Fi instead. amazon.com; $199.

Practical stockinG stuffers UV SunSense Wristbands beach-bound vacationers may benefit from this uV wristband that changes color when the wearer has been in the sun too long. uvsunsense.com; $4.99.

Biobands this simple accessory uses acupressure points to quell queasiness. magellans.com/store; $13.

Luggage Pros MyFly Tags these snazzy customized tags are great for identifying luggage—plus they look cool. luggagepros.com; $6.95.

◀ Moleskin Travel Gift Box Set a moleskin travel journal, with its iconinc leather binding, lends old World charm, while also providing travelers with a place to scribble their flight numbers. moleskin.com; $49.95. ✚

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C L o C K W I s e F r o m t o P L e F t: C o u r t e s y o F h e y s . C a ; C o u r t e s y o F s C o t t e V e s t. C o m ; C o u r t e s y o F W o r K I n g u n I t; © d r e a m s t I m e ; C o u r t e s y o F L e at h e r m a n t o o L g r o u P, I n C

◀ xScale Pro Luggage Scale never go through the embarrassing routine of sorting through your personal baggage in an airport check-in line again. heys.ca; from $24.97.

Radar

Yoga in a natural setting.

wellness

Yoga in Yunnan dali

The ancient city of Dali was once the capital of the Bai and Nanzhao Kingdoms and is located along a majestic lake at the base of the forested Cangshan mountains. WenQi Lu, known to her friends as Jolie, (jolieadventure.com) offers yoga and tai chi at her lakeside studio as well as at the nearby Weiboshan, one of China’s most revered Daoist holy mountains. Lu also arranges a variety of custom tours which combine exploration of traditional Bai culture and spectacular hikes to hidden hot springs, teahouses and temples. When describing the experiences offered, she says, “mental clarity and physical wellbeing are just the beginning.”

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liJianG

Interlaced by ancient waterways and Ming Dynasty stone bridges, the unesco World Heritage Site of Lijiang is home to the Naxi ethnic group. The terminus of the once thriving Tea-Horse Trail between Tibet and China, Lijiang is also the site of several superlative yoga programs. Places to consider include Blue Papaya (lijiangbedandbreakfast.com) whose founder, Shanna Wu, teaches yoga, tai chi and traditional Chinese massage.

The more rustic Snow Mountain Retreat Center (snowmountainretreat.org), located beneath the glittering snowfields of Yulong, offers training in Anusara, Kundalini and Ashtanga yoga.

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sHanGri-la

The Tibetan town of Gyalthang in northern Yunnan was renamed Shangri-la in 2001 due to its approximation of a “heaven on earth.” The gateway to the Tibetan plateau, Shangri-la offers five-star luxury at Banyan Tree Ringha (banyantree.com/en/ringha) where guests can indulge in otherworldly spa treatments, daily yoga classes and horseback riding. Another sanctuary, closer to the Old Town and Yunnan’s largest Buddhist monastery, is Songtsam Shangri-la (songtsam.com); the five luxury boutique lodges offer meditation programs and tours of the mountains and valleys of southeastern Tibet.

Getting carried away.

mountain YoGa

Yunnan’s diverse mountain environments make it an ideal destination for adventures combining yoga with mountain trekking. Soma Journeys (somajourneys.com) offers five- to 15-day itineraries in areas including Tiger Leaping Gorge and the inner sanctum of Tibet’s sacred mountain Kawakarpo (also known as Meili Snow Mountain). These journeys amid plunging waterfalls and remote Buddhist monasteries will get you fit in body, mind and spirit and include sumptuous organic cuisine, cultural exploration and a range of rustic to luxurious accommodations at the best of Yunnan’s highend boutique hotels and eco-resorts. ✚

© Ian baKer (2)

the natural beauty and emerging luxury resorts in yunnan make it an ideal destination for world-class yoga. here, Ian baker explores some of the best spots to find your center in China’s fabled lost paradise.

Radar t r av e l u n i f o r m

Jessica Minh Anh

Hanoi-born Jessica Minh Anh’s fashion shows on London’s Tower Bridge, the 41st floor Skybridge of Kuala Lumpur’s Petronas Twin Towers and a 90-meter glass boat on the River Seine in Paris have drawn double takes from the international fashion cognoscenti. Through her company J Model Management, the well-connected Minh Anh works with a coterie of up-and-coming designers including the likes of Paul Costelloe, Addy van den Krommenacker, Susana Bettencourt, Gottex and Gideon Oberson on visually arresting projects that seem logistically impossible. “I believe the stunning collections at the shows shine brighter and look more romantic with a backdrop rather than in some static stage setup,” says the 28-year-old who, prior to her career launch, studied in Malaysia and the United Kingdom. + Now London-based, Minh Anh is, admittedly, no follower of the tried and tested. She recalls the event that first got people talking: “We had only two-and-a-half hours to set up the entire stage along with the lighting and the sound system on London’s Tower Bridge.” After each show, a constant challenge, she says, is to find an even more outstanding venue. “You always want to top yourself, and that’s the difficult part.” + As she’s always on the lookout for new locations for her fashion events, Minh Anh spends a great portion of her time on the road. Her outfits of choice are, predictably, dramatic, and picked with military precision.”I usually wear a red dress to match my red Repetto flats and a large Burberry or Vivienne Westwood bag to put essential items in,” she adds. For a low-key look, she’d opt for a nude or red dress-like jacket. “Keeping a consistent image is important, and since I’m always at different airports, I like to look my best.”

— mark lean ✚

up next

what’s in Her bag “my iPhone is indispensable.

I use it to connect with my clients, chat with friends, e-mail and to access social-network sites like twitter, Facebook, LinkedIn, tumblr and Instagram.”

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“a dior travel makeup kit is a girl’s best friend. Powder, lip gloss, eyeshadows, brushes, eyeliner, mascara—and all the colors blend, so it’s functional and fashionable.”

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“although both iPads and iPhones have photo-taking capabilities, I still prefer my Canon sLr to ensure the very highest quality images are captured when traveling.”

“We plan to host the J Winter Fashion show in rio de Janeiro in december. It will be the best one so far—a mix of cultures from different international cities. For the first time, the event will be held outdoors. I hope the world will once again be amazed.”

Courtesy oF J modeL management

the model and event creator on her eclectic style and head-turning airport fashion.

Radar street scene

Bangkok

thailand’s large, bustling capital can be overwhelming—so who better than a few stylish locals to reveal where to go now? by Jennifer Chen

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1 Pim sukhahuta (left) Creative director of fashion label Sretsis “I love going to Again & Again (Thonglor Soi 4, Sukhumvit 55 Rd.; vintageagain andagain.com) to look for fancy sequin tops, long prairie dresses and 1950’s costume jewelry.”

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2 suraporn lertwongpaitoon Curator and lecturer at Silpakorn University “my favorite place for an art show and a drink is WTF Café & Gallery (7 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 51; wtfbangkok.com; cocktails for two Bt360).

It’s very chic.”

3 artaya boonsoong Special effects supervisor at Renegade VFX “at Roast Coffee & eatery (Thonglor Soi 13, Sukhumvit 55 Rd.; 66-2/1852865; lunch for two Bt720), I order a Cuban sandwich.”

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4 anan tatuho Owner of Shades of Retro bar “Khua Kling Pak Sod (98/1 Thonglor Soi 5, Sukhumvit 55 Rd.; 66-2/185-3977; dinner for two Bt500) serves southern thai food. It’s a small place—so make reservations.”

5 Pim chalocha Marketing officer for Dean & Deluca “the weekend market Talat Rod Fai (Kamphaengphet Rd.) is a great spot for a chilled-out evening with friends. I go there to shop for secondhand shoes, followed by beers!”

6 Gene kasidit Musician “For a quiet drink, I go to Smith (1/8 Sukhumvit Rd. Soi 49; 66-2/2610515; cocktails for two Bt560), a new restaurant with cocktails like Kilkenny ale, dark rum and caramel.”

Photographed by Christopher Wise

debut

Nobu’s new dish?

A hotel

For those who have ever hoped that dinner at Nobu would last forever, your wishes have been granted. Celebrity chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa has added hotelier to his extensive résumé with the soon-to-open, 181-room nobu Hotel (nobucaesarspalace.com) at Caesars Palace, in Las Vegas. Overnight guests get first dibs on tables at the hotel’s restaurant—at 4,000 square meters, the biggest one yet. But they might be more inclined to order up to their David Rockwell–designed rooms (Japanese calligraphy on the walls; walk-in shower with black umi tiles). For breakfast—a global first for Matsuhisa—there’s kurobuta sausage, onsen egg and green-tea waffles, and the mini-bars are filled with blood-orange-chili juice and the chef’s own brand of chilled sake. That’s not all: “Upon arrival, guests will be welcomed with a cup of green tea and a traditional cracker from my hometown, Saitama, Japan,” Matsuhisa told us. “It was important for me to incorporate elements of my heritage and culture.”

—alexandra wolfe

Chef nobuyuki Matsuhisa outside of nobu Las Vegas.

You onlY live tHrice Looking back at the James bond film franchise—it turns 50 this year—we realized 007 has a thing for revisiting places where he’s nearly died. Case in point: Istanbul. the setting of this month’s Skyfall, it’s where he once dodged villains at hagia sophia and almost drowned in the bosporus. oh, James, will you ever learn?—matthew link

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Hong Kong

se r iously ?

These days, there seems to be a concierge for everything. A few we could live without:

Running We’re happy with an iPod as company.

Proposal If you don’t know how to ask, maybe you shouldn’t.

Sleep Are you planning to tuck us in?

Soap A very slippery topic.

Virtual When it comes down to it, we still prefer an actual person.

Venice

Bahamas

Jamaica

Istanbul

Cipriani hotelcipriani. com.

One&Only Ocean Club oneandonly. com.

Couples Sans Souci couples.com.

Pera Palace, Jumeirah perapalace. com.

007 visits Brushes with death Babes bedded Baddies killed Bond’s hotel of choice

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none Peninsula Hong Kong peninsula.com.

e t h a n m I L L e r / g e t t y I m a g e s F o r C a e s a r s e n t e r ta I n m e n t / a F P I L L u s t r at I o n b y J a m e s n . u n K o n g

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st yle

Flying Colors going tropical this winter? take a few citrus-hued pieces to look radiant on any beach. by mimi Lombardo

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1 Crochet bikini, by Jason Wu. 2 Leather envelope wallet, dKny. 3 retro multicolor sunglasses, Prada. 4 Italian-leather sandals, bernardo 1946. 5 Lizard-skin purse, rebecca minkoff. 6 Italian-leather woven belt, meredith Wendell. 7 modal scarf, sheila Johnson Collection.

8 neon bangles, alexandra beth designs. 9 embossed-leather satchel, rafe. 10 Pheasant-feather-wrapped straw sun hat, eugenia Kim.

Photographed by Levi Brown

s t I L L- L I F e s t y L I n g b y r I C h I e o W I n g s F o r h a L L e y r e s o u r C e s ; Fa s h I o n m a r K e t a s s I s ta n t: C o u r t n e y K e n e F I C K

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Radar quiz

Crazy for Condiments

see if you can pair these dips, spreads and sauces with their places of origin—where ketchup is not king. by brooke Porter

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an archaic word for this amber liquid?

Ketchup.

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most of this vinegary bangertopper is actually produced in the netherlands.

the country that brought us Vegemite is also responsible for this cracker spread.

the flavor-packed, silky cubes are mixed sparingly with rice, a national staple.

this tangy, spicy plum sauce comes from the ancient land once known as Colchis.

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a surprise ingredient in this Central american condiment: carrots.

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the fiery chili paste is also popular in nearby morocco.

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the tart yet smoky red-pepperand-eggplant relish is eaten with rostilj (grilled meat).

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salty with a kick, it’s often served alongside yellow dal and curry.

1. thailand (fish sauce) 2. China (fermented soybean curd) 3. georgia (tkemali) 4. tunisia (harissa) 5. united Kingdom (hP sauce) 6. belize (habanero pepper sauce) 7. the balkans (ajvar) 8. the Philippines (banana sauce) 9. australia (cheddar-cheese spread) 10. India (mango pickle) 11. hawaii (maha’oi sauce)

sam K aPL an

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3

best described as a spicy soy sauce, this one is perfect on ahi tuna and wahoo.

Locals put this on lumpia (fried spring rolls) and spaghetti alike.

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Radar

t+l p i c ks

urban oases a world away from the city streets, these hotel pools provide instant serenity—and unbeatable views.

bangkok The Siam

overlooking the banks of the Chao Phraya river, the expansive infinity pool is the ideal place to watch this month’s Loi Krathong festival, when the water goddess is honored with floating candlelit offerings. thesiamhotel. com; doubles from Bt16,300.

dubai InterContinental Dubai Festival City

Cantilevered over the side of the 36-story building, these waters are best viewed at night, when the city’s skyline glitters in the darkness. ichotelsgroup. com; doubles from AED1,020.

miami James Royal Palm

the property is undergoing a us$78 million renovation by adam d. tihany, but the showpiece is the 10th-floor pool extended 2.5 meters over downtown. thejouledallas.com; doubles from US$260.

paris Hôtel Le Bristol

Fronting the mansard roofs of the ChampsÉlysées, the teak-andglass-enclosed lap pool was a posh 1978 addition to the venerable hotel (and modeled after aristotle onassis’s yacht Christina). the property is still an a-list favorite—it even had a cameo in Woody allen’s midnight in Paris. lebristolparis.com; doubles from €730.

—marguerite a. suozzi

Looking up at the pool at the InterContinental Dubai Festival City. da nIeL Cheong

this south beach newcomer took over the classic royal Palm and has an adults-only pool. ogle the beach scene below with a Frozen Floridian rum cocktail in hand. jameshotels.com; doubles from US$399.

dallas The Joule, a Luxury Collection Hotel

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Radar icon

Snow Patrol

one small step for man, one giant leap for ski bunnies.

Fa s h I o n m a r K e t e d I t o r : J e s s I e b a n dy

From Niseko to the Matterhorn, nothing says après-ski like the Moon Boot (tecnicausa.com). The brainchild of the Italian brand Tecnica, the high-tech design became an instant slopeside classic when it debuted in 1970, inspired by Neil Armstrong’s padded lunar look. Today, some 28 million pairs later, its retro-fabulousness is back in vogue. The boot now comes in a range of patterns and colors—rainbow! iridescent gold!—and has adorned the feet of everyone from Sir Paul McCartney to Paris Hilton, who no doubt loves the fact that there are no rights or lefts (easy on, easy off).

—k athry n o ’shea-eva ns

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Photographed by Levi Brown

your travel dilemmas solved ➔

72 … pac k i ng 74 … sm a r t t r av e l e r 76 … t e c h 78 … de a l s 80

Trip Doctor t r i p c h a l l e nge

by Amy Farley

Q: Is travel insurance worth the cost, and what kind of coverage do I need?

—michael gartenlaub, long island, n.y.

A: If you are even a little bit concerned about out-ofcountry medical expenses, especially the cost of an emergency evacuation, the answer is a resounding “Yes!” I know many experienced travelers who still think such

Illustrated by Peter Arkle

insurance is for worrywarts.

But consider this: an evacuation after a heart attack in the Caribbean might cost US$20,000, while getting home in an air ambulance from a more remote part of the world can

run upwards of US$100,000.

“The ability to ‘get outta Dodge’ can save a life, and avoid the potential for huge debt,” says Pasadena, California–based travel health specialist Brian Terry, MD. (Tip: buy the policy as

soon as possible after your first trip payment to be sure preexisting health conditions are covered.)

Travel insurance is also essential if you have invested more money in your trip than you’re willing to lose,

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Trip Doctor according to Ed Perkins at smartertravel.com.

Depending on the policy, you can be reimbursed if you cancel your trip or come home early because a family member or traveling companion becomes ill, your home country deems the destination unsafe or you find yourself unexpectedly laid off. You can even sign up for a “cancel for any reason” policy, although such provisions are costly.

Three basic types of protection are offered.

If you use a major credit card, you’re likely already covered for baggage loss, rental car damage and accidental death or dismemberment. (The Platinum Card from T+L parent company American Express also covers medical evacuations under certain conditions.) Annual travel policies can cover emergency medical treatment important if your regular coverage doesn’t cover you outside your home country—and/or medical evacuation for a full year, handy if you’re a frequent traveler or have a second home. Package policies are purchased for each trip and can cover

medical services, evacuation, trip interruption or cancellation, and financial default by your trip provider.

What’s Your Problem?

An Aggressive Masseuse

annual ProGrams

do...

MedjetAssist (medjetassist. com) and Air Ambulance Card (airambulancecard.com) are among the companies with membership-based medical evacuation services.

Others—including Travel Guard, Travelex Insurance Services and HTH Worldwide—sell annual medical policies.

Lay down the law before the lights dim. share your preferences, and if you’re ticklish or injured.

PackaGe Policies

Many tour operators and travel companies offer insurance; if you buy through them, be sure you’re getting a policy that comes from a reputable company such as Travel Guard or Travelex. Better yet, compare and choose your own policy via online sources such as quotewright. com, insuremytrip.com and squaremouth.com. And read the fineprint; some travel insurance companies try to bury the exclusions in footnotes, so get out the magnifying glass and search for the details on what is actually included.

Use body language. raising your hand or finger tells your therapist to pause, and is less awkward than breaking the silence.

don’t...

Leave things to chance. When booking, request a therapist with a lighter touch, or specify a gender.

bY tHe numbers

29 percent The proportion of travelers since summer 2010 who had travel insurance when impacted by natural disasters or world events* *U.S. Travel Insurance Association Survey, February 2012.

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Be vague. using a 1–10 scale will ensure the right pressure, e.g., 6 (moderate) rather than 9 (very intense).

tHe final saY

Q: When— and how much— should I tip the hotel doorman?

A: Holding doors and hailing cabs warrant tips only when extra legwork is required. Give the equivalent of two US dollars for a taxi found during rush hour or a storm, one US dollar for each suitcase, and a fiver for doing both. But tip on the spot: belated thanks can end up in the wrong pocket.

Trip Challenge so How do i Plan…

a Cycling tour?

I’ve biked my way through europe and am ready for something more adventurous. Can you suggest an affordable, culturally rich itinerary in an up-and-coming destination? —travis schoenleber, boston, mass.

five more under-theradar bike trips

1

mendoza, arGentina Ideal for food and wine lovers, the mendoza bike tour from duVine adventures (duvine. com; five nights from US$4,395) meanders through the malbecproducing vineyards of Luján de Cuyo and uco Valley, in the andean foothills.

2

JaPan this island nation is filled with idyllic landscapes, many of which are largely unexplored. Land of Contrasts from butterfield & robinson (seven nights from US$9,495) follows dirt roads past thatchedroof houses and shrines that line the fishing villages in the noto Peninsula. soak in hot springs and visit centuries-old temples.

m ai c H Âu ★

H anoi

tHe destination For an experience that hits the right balance between value and culture, we recommend Vietnam, where you’ll have intimate access to local communities, markets, temples and regional cuisine. outfitters VBT Bicycling & Walking Vacations (vbt.com; nine nights from US$2,745) has an easygoing 177-kilometer route that starts in Hanoi and winds through the ancient capital of Hué. Pedalers Pub & Grille (pedalerspubandgrille.com; 13 nights from US$3,095) offers a moderate course (about 58 kilometers per day) through the striking landscape of Mai Châu; you’ll stop to sample delicacies along

the way. For those who 0-160Km want to head further north, Spiceroads (spiceroads.com; nine nights from US$1,595) takes in Sapa including a ride over a HuÉ 1,900-meter pass, the highest road in Vietnam, while an itinerary from Butterfield & Robinson (butterfield. com; eight nights from US$6,795) includes cycling the farmland near Hoi An and dinner with royal descendants in Hué.

PackinG essentials Biking gloves; a brimmed hat; UV-protection sunglasses; bug repellent; sa iGon low-cut walking or hiking shoes; a day pack. ✚

fast facts WHen TO GO Jan Feb mar apr may Jun Jul aug sep oct nov dec

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GeTTInG THeRe most itineraries start in hanoi or saigon.

Fly into noi bai International airport (han) or tan son nhat International airport (sgn), respectively.

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VISAS required.

VACCIneS/MeDICIne hepatitis a and b and typhoid, plus antimalarials in some rural destinations.

Visit travel.cdc.gov for more.

3

burma thanks to recent political developments, tour operators are offering more itineraries. backroads has a new burma biking trip (seven nights from US$4,198) that sets off from rangoon, passing by stilt-supported villages on Inle Lake, more than 2,000 temples and pagodas and volcanic mount Popa.

4

Poland on Vbt’s new Cycling through the old World (nine nights from US$2,745), you’ll pedal picturesque country roads flanked by flowers, stopping to sip traditional mead in the village of sandomierz and to shop at Kraków’s farmers’ market.

5

nePal access trips (accesstrips.com; 11 nights from US$2,790) is offering a mountain-biking adventure through nepal in may 2013. amid 6,000-meter-high peaks, you’ll explore unspoiled villages, terraced farms and ancient buddhist temples.

© gu en t er gu nI / IstoC K P hotos.Com

sa Pa

Trip Doctor

by Mimi Lombardo

PackinG

Q: What do I bring on a work trip that will also include a hike along the Great Wall of China and Shanghai nightlife?

—jocelyn anderson, bronxville, n.y.

A: Complex travel plans can make packing daunting. Tone down the headache by bringing business clothes that can transition into an evening look, and vice versa. Unfortunately, hiking has its own distinct needs (but is well worth the hassle, especially after a hectic assignment).

Choose from these items for the boardroom, the backcountry and the dancefloor.

Hiking

a knit shirtdress is a career staple, and easily rolls for packing (Banana Republic). animal-print loafers with subtle side-sparkle are surprisingly versatile (Vince Camuto).

Featherweight goose down keeps you warm on the trails and on a chilly airplane (Eddie Bauer). these hiking shoes weigh in at just under half a kilogram each; gore-tex uppers provide breathability (Vasque).

nightlife

this black-and-white boatneck top goes with everything from skinny jeans to pleated trousers (Ann Taylor). bump up your pretty factor with a geometric statement necklace (Kara by Kara Ross).

and if you have room...

Want to look as fierce in a meeting as you do at the club? this tweed jacket with butterysoft leather sleeves does the trick (Rebecca Taylor).

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nothing against trekking in jeans, but nylon pants are durable and quick-drying.

Plus, if it gets hot, you can transform them into capris (The North Face).

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

When night falls, pull out this python-skin clutch and— presto!—you’re party-ready (B. May Bags).

Photographed by Levi Brown

s t y L I s t: s a r a h g u I d o / h a L L e y r e s o u r C e s ; Fa s h I o n m a r K e t a s s I s ta n t: C o u r t n e y K e n e F I C K

business

Smart Traveler

By Jennifer Chen

When things go Wrong Vacation plans can go awry for even the most seasoned travelers. here, what to do to get your holiday back on track with minimal fuss.

Stolen passport, missed connections, lost luggage, wrong visa entry dates, food poisoning, items stolen from a suitcase. With the holiday peak season just around the corner, the chance of running into problems during your travels is greater than ever.

But fortunately, there are fairly easy, reliable solutions to even the most stressful situations, so there’s no reason to let these hiccups ruin your trip. Here are a few simple strategies on how to avoid three common travel headaches—and how to cope when trouble does hit.

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Lost or stolen passport. Even before you step out your door, make sure you have several color copies of the photo page of your passport and any relevant visas, and don’t keep them in one place. Having a color copy on hand makes getting a replacement a lot easier.

It might seem obvious, but always keep your passport in an inconspicuous place—the interior pocket of a bag rather than an outside one, for instance. I always try to have my passport and boarding pass in my hand when I’m going through airport

Illustration by Wasinee Chantakorn

security. Once on a plane, never stick your passport into the seat pocket—that’s a surefire way of leaving it behind.

When you reach your destination, don’t carry your passport on you unless necessary. Stash it in your hotel safe and don’t forget it when you check out. And never, ever hand over your passport to just anyone, especially anyone who stops you on the street, even if they look official.

If your passport does go missing, call your nearest embassy or consulate as soon as possible and report it stolen. In most countries, you will probably have to file a police report—ask your hotel for help. The next day, go to the embassy or consulate—with a color photocopy ready to go—and apply for an emergency passport.

Lost luggage. Last year, some 26 million pieces of checked luggage went missing on international flights, according to SITA, a communications company that tracks this issue.

With air travel becoming more popular than ever, it’s little wonder that bags go astray. The best way of avoiding the problem? Stick to a carry-on and avoid the issue altogether, especially on short trips. Taking a direct flight is the next best strategy.The fewer times your luggage has to chance vehicles, the better the odds that it will be waiting for you when you reach your destination.

There are also steps that you can take to help recover your bag should it fail to show up. For starters, put fashion aside and buy a suitcase in any color other than black. If you must have that black Tumi bag, accessorize it with a colorful luggage tag and/or belt—they make it that much easier to identify.

Place either your business card or a sheet of paper with your address and phone number in the outside pocket of your suitcase, and inside as well. Never put anything of value in your checked luggage—a practice that also protects you from light fingers in baggage handling. Finally, keep a mental list of what you packed; the airline will want an itemized list if it’s lost.

In the event that your bag doesn’t turn up at the baggage carousel, don’t leave the airport. Find an airline agent and keep your cool. You’ll have to fill out a couple of forms and after you’re done, make sure to get the full name and number of the agent. The next day, call the agent—and the airline’s help line—to follow up.

Missing hotel reservation. Booking online through an aggregator might be convenient, but slip-ups do happen.

Before you arrive, call the hotel to confirm your reservation.

Giving a hotel an estimated time of arrival, especially if you’re checking in late, is also wise. And make sure you have a printout of your confirmed reservation. Once you’ve taken all these steps, it’s the hotel’s responsibility to get you into another room or one at a comparable hotel. Don’t be shy about asking for transportation if you end up staying somewhere else, or asking for some kind of refund if the other property isn’t of the same quality. ✚

Tech

By MG

Fit for travel after a relaxing vacation that centered on good food and fine wine, there are consequences. It’s not only your luggage that has gained a few kilos on the journey home—you may have too. here are a few smart phone apps to help you stay lean and healthy on your next trip.

This free app creates custom fitness plans, logging daily calories consumed and burned. It has a database of over 400 trackable excercises and 350,000 different foods. Available on iTunes and Google Play; dailyburn.com; free.

Take photos of your lunch with your iPhone and Meal Snap will automatically register what you are eating and calculate the number of calories that are in the meal. It syncs this data with the DailyBurn app to monitor your progress towards your fitness goal. Available on iTunes; mealsnap.com; US$0.99.

GYMPACT

No pain, no gain. Here’s an app that make cents out of that saying, charging subscribers a fee for missing work outs and using that money to reward subscribers who meet their fitness goals. So if you skip a work out, your credit card will be fined a minimum of five US dollars (you set the amount) and if you complete an exercise session, you’ll be paid between US$0.50 to US$0.75 through Paypal. This app syncs with RunKeeper so you can keep racking up the dough while you jog on the beach. Available on iTunes; gympact.com; the app is free but laziness could cost you.

MY MeDICAL

RUnKeePeR

This free app has an optional heart-rate monitor you can buy to help track your exertion during runs, but if you carry your smart phone with you, you don’t need the additional gadget. RunKeeper will log the data from your runs, walks, bike rides and hikes using the GPS in your phone. You can set goals and the app will offer milestones and encouragement along the way as you inch towards your target.

Available on iTunes and Google Play; runkeeper.com; free.

You never know when you may hit health trouble and you don’t want to be caught unprepared. My Medical stores all of your important medical data on your iPhone or iPad, so you have the information you need immediately on hand. Available on iTunes; mymedicalapp.com; US$2.99.

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C L o C K W I s e F r o m t o P L e F t: © t r u dy W I L K e r s o n / d r e a m s t I m e . C o m ; © P e m m e t t / d r e a m s t I m e . C o m ; © m I K e C r a n e / I s t o C K P h o t o . C o m ; © at h e n a r / d r e a m s t I m e . C o m ; © h u P e n g / d r e a m s t I m e . C o m ; I L L u s t r at I o n : C o u r t e s y o F C h r I s r o b I n s o n

MeAL SnAP

DAILYBURn

Deals Singapore Ullate provit, aut ut of the dolor eheni ditiam ut pra cum nimus daerum susant. per night Lorem ipsum quunt que.

The Glass House restaurant at Hotel Fort Canning.

s$368

city

sinGaPore

cHina

What bubblelicious room package at hotel Fort Canning (hfcsingapore.com). Details a stay in deluxe room. Highlights bubble bath with flower petals, breakfast for two at the glass house, a bottle of sparkling wine and complimentary evening drinks from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. daily.

Cost s$368 per night, double, through december 30. Savings 25 percent.

indonesia

What suite escapes at Conrad bali (conradbali.com). Details two nights in a Conrad suite.

Highlights a one-hour body massage for two and a gourmet set dinner for two per stay. Cost From us$1,000 (us$500 per night), double, through march 31, 2013. Savings 25 percent.

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What a heavenly gift at the Westin xian (westin.com/xian).

Details a stay in a deluxe room.

Highlight a complimentary bathrobe, pillow or towel set to take home. Cost From rmb1,380 per night, double, through december 31. Savings 50 percent.

macau

What opening package at sheraton macao hotel (sheratonmacao.com). Details a stay in a deluxe room.

Highlights a special sheraton anniversary memento valued at roughly hK$600 and choice of one-way ferry tickets for two or hK$100 spa credit. Cost From hK$1,398, double, through december 31. Savings 40 percent.

t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

island maldives

What stay 3, Pay 2 Linger Longer at Viceroy maldives (viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/ maldives). Details three nights in a beach villa. Highlights a complimentary third night and daily gourmet breakfast for two.

Cost From us$3,040 (us$1,013 per night), double, through december 20. Savings 33 percent.

indonesia

What the Colony special package at the Colony hotel bali (thecolonyhotelbali.com). Details a seven-night stay in a deluxe room. Highlights airport transfer and complimentary daily breakfast for two. Cost From us$1,355 (us$194 per night), double, through december 31.

Savings up to 20 percent.

Gourmet malaYsia

What santapan retreat at tanjong Jara resort (tanjongjararesort.com). Details two nights in a bumbung, serambi or anjung room.

Highlights three gourmet malaysian meals per day, a cooking class, a local food tour of dungan town and daily 50-minute spa experiences.

Cost From rm950 per night, double, through march 27, 2013.

Savings 50 percent.

taiwan

What stay 3, Pay Less at hotel Quote (hotel-quote.com). Details three nights in an o room.

Highlight Complimentary daily gourmet breakfast for two. Cost From nt$14,000, double, through december 28. Savings 64 percent.

Courtesy oF hoteL Fort CannIng

romance

culture HonG konG

What Wetland Park at harbour Plaza resort City (harbour-plaza. com/hprc). Details a stay in a superior room. Highlights two entrance tickets to the hong Kong Wetland Park and a new york- style buffet breakfast for two. Cost hK$888, double, through december 22.

Savings 26 percent.

© dmIt ry P / dre a mstIm e.Com

tHailand

What Launch package at riva surya bangkok (rivasurya.com).

Details a stay in an urban room.

Highlights two Chao Phraya express boat day passes and daily riverside breakfast at babble & rum café. Cost bt3,499, double, through december 20.

Savings 25 percent.

nepal

us$720

triP of tHe montH

nePaL

per night

the operator smiling albino (smilingalbino.com), a thailandbased tour operator specializing in designing quirky travel itineraries for off-the-beatenpath adventures throughout the region. highlights ➔ traverse the country on classic royal enfield motorcycles. ➔ embark on a safari in Chitwan national Park. ➔ Visit buddhist monastaries in Lumbini. ➔ explore Pokhara and the International Peace Pagoda. ➔ discover the highlights of historic Kathmandu. ➔ dine at some of the finest local restaurants.

cost the 10-night, 11-day journey starts at us$7,200 for two (us$720 per night) and includes accommodation, return

airport transfers, experienced guides, support vehicle with equipment, all admission fees, motorcycles and most meals.

November 2012

a L berto buZ ZoL a

in this issue 84 George town 94 Phuket 102 new chinese architecture 108 skiing in asia 113 macau for foodies 118 taiwan 122 Paris shopping

Kafka CafĂŠ in Macau. t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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An Island for the Arts

george toWn has a reFreshed LooK to It, and It’s not Just oWIng to a neW Coat oF PaInt. the PoPuLar maLaysIan stoP, WrItes ROBYn eCKHARDT, Is home to an emergIng arts sCene, deLICIous Food and memorabLe arChIteCture. PHOTOGRAPHeD BY DAVID HAGeRMAn

Under the spotlight at the Khoo Kongsi. t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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Arts booster Khai Lee at RESCUBE.

The upstairs lounge at Kwong Sang House, below; local taxis at Khoo Kongsi, right.

A

t 9 p.m. on a late-summer Saturday cars inch along Chulia Street in George Town, snaking around pedestrians as they dart between hawker stalls dishing up wonton mee, chicken satay and curry laksa. A short stroll away on Jalan Carnavon, the last customers of the day file out of the decades-old Chinese-Malaysian restaurant Tek Sen, while two blocks east servers at pocket-sized café Behind 50 Love Lane hustle to keep up with the demand for beer and bar snacks.

Nocturnal grazing is a way of life on Penang, a halfurbanized island off the northwest coast of Malaysia renowned for street food. But until recently nightlife of any variety was a stranger to George Town, the island’s capital and a unesco World Heritage Site since 2008. Though its sublime cityscape—a mash-up of 18th to mid-20th-century churches, mosques, Chinese and Indian temples, ornate Peranakan mansions and shuttered shop houses—has long attracted a type of traveler for whom period architecture trumps easy access to an espresso, the majority of the island’s visitors bypassed George Town en route to beaches due north.

I experienced the city’s malaise firsthand in early 2009, while living for a week in a friend’s house in the middle of the unesco conservation zone. Driving into town after dark on a

Friday, I found ample street parking but wandered for blocks in search of something to eat. On Sunday morning I meandered through a veritable ghost town of half-vacant buildings and shut-tight storefronts randomly pocked with points of foodfocused activity—a dim sum shop here, an Indian tea stall there. But George Town’s faded beauty, endlessly fascinating street culture and live-and-let-live vibe drew me in, and by the year’s end I’d bought a fixer-upper in town. And as I’ve worked to make my house habitable I’ve watched with pleasure as a similar transformation has taken place in my new hometown.

George Town is undergoing a revival of sorts, and I’m not the only one who’s noticed.

“Three years ago this was a dead city after 6 p.m. The office workers went home and hardly anyone came in on Saturday or Sunday,” recalls Isaac Liew, a 30-year-old Malaysian writer who moved to Penang to attend university a decade ago. In early 2011, Liew and two university chums took a chance on the inner city, launching Behind 50 Love Lane with four tables and a sixseat bar. Business has been so robust that a few months ago they added café cum library Kwong Sang House nearby. Open only in the evenings and on weekends, it’s a 60’s and 70’s memorabilia-filled space serving Western fare like lamb chops and pasta to a mostly local crowd. “We get Penang-ites from 10 years old to 80, including grandmothers celebrating their birthday dinners,” says Liew. New businesses like Liew’s are part and parcel of the unesco imprimatur’s power to kickstart local economies, and almost five years after receiving its listing George Town boasts many of the trappings of World Heritage success. Building facades wear new coats of paint and temples, mosques and other historical sites around town have been spruced up and restored. Over a dozen boutique hotels and guest houses have opened, with more in the works.

There are new galleries and shops, bike-rental outlets and a cooking school, and visitors hungry for something other than street food can choose from smart restaurants and quirky cafés.

Yet despite the proliferation of traveler-oriented amenities, George Town feels less like a place being redesigned for tourists and more like a city undergoing urban renewal. On any given Saturday at La Boheme, a café run by a French pastry chef and his Malaysian wife, more than half of the patrons nibbling salted caramel-walnut tarts and supping the coq au vin daily special are likely to be island residents. Sunday mornings see bike riders, skateboarders and walkers flocking to main t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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Biking past George Town urban art, above; inside the ornate 1881 Chong Tian Hotel, below.

Time for a danish at La Boheme, above; or a drink at Behind 50 Love Lane, below.

Art Space I at China House, left. The library and lounge at Kwong Sang House, below.

thoroughfare Beach Street, now closed to cars for half the day.

On the last Saturday night of each month locals mingle with visitors in the granite-paved square of Khoo Kongsi, a Chinese clan complex off Armenian Street, dramatically lit to highlight performances on its century-old opera stage, and stalls offering local delicacies. More suburban families, driving in to shop at George Town’s sprawling Chow Rasta morning market, stay in town afterwards to poke about back lanes and go on guided cultural tours of Francis Light Cemetery, resting place for Penang’s European pioneers. There are also art exhibits at Galeri Seni Mutiara and China House, a multi-purpose food, beverage, art and performance space occupying 930 square meters in three eclectically refurbished shop houses.

“What is amazing for me to see nowadays is locals—Penang people from the mainland or from the island’s suburbs— coming into the city to explore,” says hotelier and island native Chris Ong, who left Penang in 1978 and returned only five years ago. Ong has opened two boutique lodgings in converted stables (Muntri Mews and Noordin Mews). This December, he and partner Karl Steinberg will launch George Town’s most visible symbol of revival to date: 7terraces, a loft-suite boutique hotel occupying a row of once burned-out terrace houses behind the city’s landmark Goddess of Mercy Temple. The coowners aim to “recreate one of the grand Peranakan experiences” of George Town’s bygone days, says Ong. But in addition to putting the city on the map as a regional luxury travel destination, 7terraces will offer another excuse for those on the island to linger in their capital city, in the form of a suave bar and upscale restaurant, serving modern Peranakan cuisine, that will stretch the length of the property’s dramatic frontage.

Perhaps the most encouraging sign of George Town’s urban renaissance is the emergence of an arts scene. Its long history as a landing point for migrants from Asia, India and beyond bequeathed the city an incomparably rich cultural milieu.

Traditional trades like sign board and incense making are still practiced in town and religious rituals and performances from raucous Thaipusam processions to side street celebrations of temple gods’ birthdays are as day-to-day as a good bowl of noodles. Now public funding and private initiative have entered the picture. The George Town Festival, a month of art, music, theater, dance, opera and film commemorating the city’s place on the unesco World Heritage list, ran for the third consecutive year in July, with a roster of 90 events. Cambodian

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Sbaek Thom plays and Indian director Roysten Abel’s The Manganiyar Seduction, a combination of traditional Rajasthani music and contemporary theater, helped drive this year’s record ticket sales.

Also drawing international artists to George Town is the Artists in Exchange Program, co-sponsored by Penang Global Tourism and administered by Mali Home, a family-funded artist’s retreat on the west side of Penang island. Partnering with up-and-coming Korean arts hub Kwangju, the program, which was initiated this year, brought three Korean artists to George Town where they stayed for a month, capturing the city in their respective media, and sent two Penang-based artists to Kwangju. As a result the Kwangju arts body has expressed an interest in sending performers to the 2013 George Town Festival.

Staged in conjunction with this year’s festival was rescube, a collection of installations, sculpture, prints and video by six Malaysia-based artists, exhibited in a grand but dilapidated double-story house on Beach Street. This was the second exhibit in the space, which is owned by Penang lawyer, art collector and long-time arts booster Khai Lee. A second rescube featuring more work by the original six artists, plus six more, will open in late December, and Lee has further exhibits planned before he turns the property into his home.

“The interesting thing is that we have brought in lots of people who’ve never been to an art gallery,” says Lee, who describes young Malaysians squiring parents, aunties, uncles and grandparents to a site-specific exhibit of works by Kuala Lumpur artist C.H. Chee, on the experience of Chinese Malaysians in Penang, held in the structure last year.

At the end of November, Malaysian and international writers, such as Indonesian journalist Linda Christanty, Belgian author David Van Reybrouck and MalaysianAustralian poet Omar Musa, will convene for the second annual George Town Literary Festival.

Organizers are encouraging participation by making all events—panel discussions, readings, workshops—free to the

A minimalist sleeping loft in one of Sekeping Victoria’s guest suites.

The newly restored domes of Kapitan 96 Keling n o V e m bMosque. e r 2 01 2 t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

aLL thIs aCtIVIty In george toWn Is begInnIng to draW the notICe oF artIsts and WrIters, arChIteCts and PerFormers Who are settIng uP a busIness, a non-ProFIt or Just LIVIng here public. “Last year we started small and it was very successful.

Nothing like the lit fest had ever happened in George Town,” says Festival Director, writer and George Town native Bernice Chauly. “But Penang people are quite responsive to this sort of thing, and the city is coming into its own.”

“George Town has the potential to be a center of arts in northern Malaysia, drawing on the energy of the many urban renewal projects that bring in travelers—especially domestic travelers who come here to do things like go to art exhibits, see performances, go to cafés and shops,” says theater practitioner and Penang native Chee Sek Thim, who lived and worked for years in New York and Kuala Lumpur before returning to the island in 2008. In 2011 Sek Thim co-founded Pocket Size Productions, with videographer Ambiga Devy and musician Johan Othman, to stage small productions on Penang.

Hindering the development of a true art scene is its as-yet unseasoned local audience and a shortage of performance spaces, says Sek Thim. In response to the second point, in early 2013 he will open Sin Keh, a mid-range guesthouse and performance and practice space in George Town, whose name, which translates as “new guest,” is a nod to its heritage as a city of immigrants.

All this activity in George Town is beginning to draw the notice of artists and writers, architects and performers who are renting or purchasing properties in town with the aim of setting up a business, a non-profit venture or just living part or full-time. Earlier this year Malaysian landscape architect and designer Ng Sek San, whose retreats are known for their raw minimalism, opened Sekeping Victoria in George Town’s asyet-under-the-radar warehouse district. The structure serves as a guest house and the designer’s own stay when he’s in town.

It’s also an event venue—the opening party for this year’s George Town Festival was held there, and George Town Literary Festival attendees can look forward to its stylishly rustic interiors. Kevin Low, owner of the award-winning Kuala Lumpur firm small projects, was drawn by the city’s singular character—“great food and old watch shops where you can buy Diamond brand clocks”—and purchased adjacent properties off Armenian Street. “I don’t want to do something for tourists, but for locals. Maybe a studio/workspace/library,” says the selfdescribed “builder of buildings.”

For this new resident, who still wanders the streets of her adopted home town with the eyes of a tourist, four years on from its World Heritage listing George Town is both more comfortable and more appealingly layered. Its past as a trading town has left the city resilient in the face of what some might describe as a tourism onslaught; even spruced up, it remains raw and real. “Gentrification is inevitable,” says Lee. “The good thing about George Town is that it has been quite organic. And that makes it more interesting.” ✚

staY 23 Love Lane 23 Love Ln.; 604/262-1323; 23lovelane.com; doubles from RM450.

Campbell House 106 Campbell St.; 60-4/261-8290; campbellhousepenang.com; doubles from RM400. noordin Mews 53 Noordin St.; 60-4/263-7125; noordinmews. com; doubles from RM250.

1881 Chong Tian 38-42 Pintal Tali St.; 60-4/263-1881; 1881chongtian.com; doubles from RM1,588. eat and drink Behind 50 Love Lane Corner of Love Ln. and Muntri St.; 60-12/ 556-5509; beers for two RM24.

Kwong Sang House 36 Leith St.; 60-12/556-5509; dinner for two RM70.

La Boheme 42 Sri Bahari St.; 60-17/976-2153; coffee and sweets for two RM30.

Yeng Keng Café & Bar 362 Chulia St.; 60-4/262-2177; yengkenghotel.com; meal for two RM75.

BTB and Restaurant China House, 153-155 Beach St.; 604/263-7299; meal for two RM150.

Via Pre 5 Weld Quay; 60-4/2619800; via-pre.com; meal for two RM200.

Steak Frites 23 Love Ln.; 604/262-1323; dinner for two RM150. ete Café 79 Carnavon St.; 60-

17/435-0922; siphon coffee for two RM25.

Tek Sen 18-20 Carnavon Rd.; 6012/493-9424; meal for two RM80. do George Town Literary Festival November 23-25; 60-4/2643456; gtlfestival.blogspot.com.

ReSCUBe 212 Beach St.; exhibit opens December 21.

George Town Festival 2013 dates to be announced; 60-4/2616308; georgetownfestival.com. evening of Lights Khoo Kongsi, 18 Cannon Sq.; 7-10 p.m. last Saturday of the month.

Francis Light Cemetery Tour Upper Penang Rd.; 1:45-2:45 p.m. last Sunday of the month, meet at Little Penang Street Market.

Little Penang Street Market Upper Penang Rd.; last Sunday of the month.

China House 153-155 Beach St.; 60-4/263-7299; chinahouse.com.my.

Galeri Seni Mutiara 118 Armenian St.; 60-4/262-0167; galerisenimutiara.com.

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Shoes as art at ReSCUBe.

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Phuket by the Dozen

Thailand’s popular getaway offers resorts of every description and for every budget. Simon Ostheimer heads off in search of 12 top addresses and comes up smiling. photographed by brent t. madison

Getting away from it all at The Racha.

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IDER THAT ONCE YOU CONS ith less than Phuket, an island w ents, attracts half a million resid each year, it’s millions of tourists a tourism easy to see why it’s ailand. That poster child for Th ever y type of also means there’s gine under the resort you can ima oosing one for tropical sun, so ch t easy. Here, n’ is k a re b t ex n r u yo ifferent locales, we break down 12 d t most needs. a list that should fi

Clockwise from above: The main pool at Andara; a towel at the ready at Trisara; The naka Island; arriving at The naka; Trisara and a leisurely lunch; a large guest room at the resort; gourmet cuisine is never far away at Phuket’s resorts.

Luxury

The naka Island The all-villa Naka Island is one of Phuket’s most sought-after sanctuaries, right in line with its previous incarnation as an ultra-vegan fitness retreat. These days, the menu includes meat and you’re welcome to not work out—but it’s still a perfect destination if you’re looking for a little privacy, are uninterested in Patong’s nightlife and are content to spend your vacation in quiet reflection. The villas embrace the outdoors—we’re fans of the standalone bathrooms, connected to the bedrooms by latticed walkways—and are surrounded by lush gardens. In the evening, take a stroll through the resort to Z Bar, and toast the views of Phuket and Phang Nga Bay. 32 Moo 5, Tambol Paklok, Naka Yai Island; 66-76/371-400; nakaislandphuket.com; villas from Bt13,200.

Andara Resort & Villas The vision of Hong Kong businessman Allan Zeman, who built the resort after completing his own holiday home Chandara on the next headland, Andara cascades down the hillside above Kamala beach on Phuket’s west coast. A mix of residential suites and pool villas, all accommodation comes decked out with full kitchens, Bose sound systems and silk linens designed

by Jim Thompson. Want to follow in Zeman’s footsteps? Buy your own villa, and the resort can rent it out when you’re not there. The private Kamala Beach Club and Lounge, with its fullsize beds in the sand, provides a sunny home away from home.

15 Moo 6, Kamala Beach, Kathu; 66-76/338-777; andaraphuket. com; suites from Bt26,200.

Regent Phuket Cape Panwa Phuket is always waiting to be wowed by the latest thing. But the new Regent Phuket is all about subtle splendor, sitting cliffside overlooking its own private beach at the end of the quiet Cape Panwa. All rooms are fitted with iPads; the villas have their own plunge pools, butlers and access to the Regent Club for complimentary breakfast and cocktails. The 60-meter infinity pool is inviting, though just as attractive is the Regent Spa—one of the few places in Phuket where you can treat yourself to an Intraceutical Infusion facial, a treatment that uses pressurized-oxygen to enhance skin hydration and combats the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

84 Moo 8, Sakdidej Rd., Tambon Vichit, Amphur Muang; 6676/200-800; regenthotels.com/en/phuket; pavilions from Bt11,000.

Trisara Meaning “Third Garden of Heaven” in Sanskrit, Trisara sets expectations high. You won’t be disappointed: all rooms and villas come with infinity pools overlooking a private beach.

Charter one of the luxury yachts if you want to cruise the high seas, though once you check in, you might never want to leave the resort. The chilled-out vibe is taken up a karmic notch by the option of holistic healing sessions in a private seafront sala (or in the comfort of your own villa), which are dedicated to helping you find inner peace. As if you needed any assistance.

60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/310100; trisara.com; doubles from Bt21,558. t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa Parents and kids alike will be won over by this Westin, out alone on eastern Siray Island, because of its family focus. There are three main pools and various offshore water activities to sign up for, and children of Starwood Preferred Guests can eat all day for a flat daily rate. The Kids Club has a menu for little ones, and provides an activity packet as well as staff on hand to teach them how to print batik, make wind chimes and even speak a little Thai. How do you say, “Now, that’s a play-cation”?

21/4 Moo 1, Siray Island, Rasada, Muang; 66-76/335-600; westin. com/siraybayresort; doubles from Bt2,599.

Angsana Laguna Phuket At this huge new west coast spot, bigger really is better. We’re talking about a 323-meter resort-wide lagoon pool; the expansive kids’ club featuring a jungle gym, spa and resident baby elephant. The Kids Café serves up burgers, hot dogs and fries, though parents will probably prefer the fare at the hotel’s signature Thai and Italian restaurants, followed by a few sundowners at Xana Beach Club, for which international DJs are regularly flown in to spin for the island’s party crowd.

10 Moo 4 Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/324-101; angsana.com/en/phuket; doubles from Bt6,410.

Pullman Phuket Arcadia naithon Beach Despite all the development, there are still patches of lush, unspoiled scenery left on Phuket. That’s what makes the pristine headland on which the Pullman opens this month so special. The 277-room property with a family focus is beautifully integrated into its verdant surroundings. For the family that likes to play separately, there are adult- and kidonly pools, Smart TVs in every room preloaded with video games and, in fact, an entire gaming room. Combined with a babysitting service and four children’s clubs—one for each age group—moms and dads will be able to make the most of the resort’s upscale Italian restaurant or the live music at the Access lounge.

22 2 Moo 4, Tambon Saku, Thalang; 66-76/303-299; pullmanhotels.com; doubles from Bt5,800.

The Vijitt Resort This family-run resort is unusual on an island dominated by global chains, and as recently as 2006 consisted of only thatchand-bamboo bungalows. Eschewing the international management route, the Thai owners decided by the family was the best approach for the family. Witness: the colorful Kid’s Club with its own pool, ice cream stand and all-day organized activities. A simple yet luxurious resort with traditional Thai design touches, it has an enviable perch right on the southern coast of Phuket. The Vijitt’s kitchens use organic produce where possible, including herbs and fruit from the resort’s own gardens and orchards, while the Sunday brunch is popular with islanders. Hard to believe the backpackers had the place all to themselves for so long.

16 Moo 2, Viset Rd., Rawai, Muang; 66-76/363-600; vijittresort. com; villas from Bt3,900.

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Clockwise from top left: At the Angsana Laguna; a pool villa at the Pullman; Westin Siray Bay Resort & Spa; Phuket is a perfect playground for kids; a deluxe pool villa at the Vijitt Resort; the welcome area at the Westin. Middle: Kicking back on the beach.

Clockwise from above: The Racha’s natural side; at Twinpalms; a shrimp dish at The Surin; the tropical grounds at Twinpalms; Paresa specializes in fresh cuisine; arriving at Twinpalms; Paresa’s wine cellar. Middle: At Paresa.

BoutIquE

Paresa Resort There’s no place like Paresa in the springtime… or summer or autumn or winter, for that matter. With a distinctly southern Thai design—picture pavilion-style ceilings and Chineseinfluenced furnishings—the resort is a parry to the omnipresent northern Lanna style. Rooms are open and spacious, all villas and suites have ocean views and the signature restaurant, Talung Thai, is shaded under the canopy of several large banyan trees, preserved during construction.

Nearby is the resort’s beach club in Kamala, though for us the clincher is an “Infinity Experience” meal, where diners sit on floating decks in the fiber-optic-lit pool.

49 Moo 6, Layi-Nakalay Rd., Kamala; 66-76/302-000; paresaresorts.com; doubles from Bt15,000.

The Surin Phuket A major renovation by Paris-based architect Ed Tuttle rechristened the much-loved, if well-worn property as The Surin, a geometric gem nestled in the small but idyllic Pansea beach. Whether you choose a cottage or suite, you’ll enjoy private sun decks, teak floors and organic toiletries. If you stay during October through May, you can dine al fresco at The Beach and watch the sun go down while enjoying a meal of fresh seafood. Some things, at least, never change.

Pansea Beach, 118 Moo 3, Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/621-580; thesurinphuket.com; cottages from Bt6,530.

Twinpalms Phuket Resort The coolest property on this list, Twinpalms attracts international glitterati, and the lodgings alone help explain why: the smallest room is 51 square meters and the Presidential Penthouse is nearly 10 times bigger. Black Card membership brings benefits including unlimited stays and spa, and a 20-person, three-day yacht cruise—all for a cool million baht a year. Feeling less flush? You can still revel in the resort’s minimalist style, rich local artwork, cutting-edge audiovisual gadgetry and 3,000-bottle wine cellar. And then there’s Catch Beach Club, where Twinpalms-guest privileges include all-day eating and imbibing, discounts on sun beds, and the chance to mingle with the planet’s rich and famous.

106/46 Moo 3, Surin Beach Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang; 66-76/316500; twinpalms-phuket.com; doubles from Bt4,700.

The Racha For true tropical remoteness, island hop down to The Racha, due south of Phuket. You’ll gain immediate access to the stunning sea life—which this eco-chic resort is helping to protect via a coral-preserving floating pontoon jetty and a ban on motorized water sports. Other admirable policies include planting two trees for every one removed for building and an island-wide organic waste recycling program. Villas—where you can customize scents with jasmine, lemongrass or lavender—are understated but elegant, though The Lighthouse, a five-story replica, offers 360-degree views of the Andaman.

Racha Yai Island, Rawai, Muang; 66-76/355-455; theracha.com; villas from Bt7,600. ✚ t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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The lobby in Guangzhou, China’s new Opera House, designed by Zaha Hadid Architects.

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all the architecture in China They are stunning, and they’re going up faster than ever—avant-garde buildings by an all-star roster of both international and Chinese architects. Joseph Giovannini reports from Shanghai, Beijing and Guangzhou.

Photographed by Philipp engelhorn

hina is in the midst of what may be the biggest building boom in human history, surpassing the creation of the Pyramids and the Great Wall, outstripping the celebrated build-up to the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Tens of millions of the country’s 1.3 billion population are flooding into its cities, where progress is the theme and the future is the goal, and ever taller buildings are pumping up skylines into steroidal versions of Manhattan. Posters promoting the image of the new China as a First World country proudly display fast sports cars, bullet trains and iconic buildings poised to lift off.

Consider the view of Shanghai’s central business district Pudong, from the Bund, the gracious esplanade of old buildings in classical styles fronting the Huangpu River, built during the city’s colonial period of foreign concessions. On the bank opposite, the spectacular jumble of globes, pagodas, pyramids, dish stacks and glassy tubes, along with a wafting stingray, may cause you to blink, but it is real, and the

innovation spawned in China’s architectural petri dish. Even she, a Pritzker laureate, seemed surprised and impressed by the hypnotically curvilinear, first-of-its-kind Phoenix International Media Center, by Shao Weiping of the Beijing Institute of Architectural Design’s Un-Forbidden office (known as BIAD UFo). The firm has applied new “parametric” software to create a building that looks like a spherical pouf turning in on itself, with its diagonal steel structure swelling, and then falling into a hole, the lines bending out of sight. The form draws inspiration from the mysterious mathematical topographies of a shape whose exterior skin turns itself outside in.

Capital cities normally benefit from all the government buildings—embassies; palaces; bureaucratic headquarters— that confer on them the stately quality of being a capital. But Beijing is not content to reign, like Washington, simply as a capital. It has thrown its hat into the ring as a commercial hub of the country, erecting high-rise structures for kilometers, many of them with iconic shapes that draw on every available inspiration—from imperial hats to Euclid.

Under construction not far from the Phoenix building is Hadid’s Galaxy SOHO, a commercial and office complex with

Shanghai

giant Interactive group’s offices, by thom mayne of morphosis.

hallucinatory combination of disparate shapes and materials is lit to dazzling at night.

China has become the world’s experimental architecture lab, for both international and Chinese architects. Zaha Hadid, Norman Foster, Steven Holl, Rem Koolhaas, Frank Gehry, Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates, Pei Partnership Architects and Gensler are just a few of the high-profile architects and firms hired to design the country’s new buildings, their names representing labels of quality in China, much like Armani, Prada and Louis Vuitton, among fashion houses, and Ferrari, Mercedes-Benz and BMW, among cars. And now Chinese architects are themselves catching on, catching up and breaking out, the first of a new generation that will earn its place on the ubiquitous architecture posters advertising China’s cities. Last May, Hangzhou architect Wang Shu became the first Chinese national to be awarded the Pritzker Prize, architecture’s Nobel.

At a dinner after this year’s Pritzker Architecture Prize ceremony in Beijing, Hadid—a juror for the awards— commandeered a colleague’s iPhone to inspect the latest

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Guangzhou

the new guangdong museum, designed by rocco yim.

one-third more floorspace than the Empire State Building. The curving forms spin off bridges in a delirium of turns and counterturns that evoke the mysterious and irrational visions of Renaissance architect Giambattista Piranesi.

Still, with a long history of imported design influences, it is Shanghai that continues to be China’s main architectural stage.

The Shanghai Oriental Sports Center, by the German firm Von Gerkan, Marg & Partners Architects, is an acropolis of colonnaded buildings set in picturesque lagoons and sheathed in a membrane of panels whose grid lines stretch like rubber.

Almost too pretty, the crowd-pleasing buildings are nonetheless impressive, vaulting acrobatically over huge interior spaces. Farther outside town is Shanghai’s second recent architectural masterpiece, the campus of Giant Interactive Group’s headquarters, by Los Angeles– and New York–based architect Thom Mayne, of Morphosis. Mayne has riffed on the open landscape to create a twisting, swooping, two-and-three-story sod-covered building whose backbone heaves like the spine of a dragon on the hunt, leading to

L e F t: C o u r t e s y o F b I a d u F o

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the Phoenix International media Center, designed by bIad uFo.

China has become the world’s experimental architecture lab

Shanghai’s Pudong district, as seen from the World Financial Tower.

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ot to be outdone in the architectural sweepstakes of China’s competing city states, Guangzhou has welcomed several elegant towers in its new central business district that confirm the world-class sophistication of the country’s building culture. On the north shore of the Pearl River, British firm Wilkinson Eyre Architects designed a super-tall structure, the Guangzhou International Finance Center, with a twin or at least a partner planned nearby. The two will bracket a huge plaza occupied by the city’s new opera house and museum, themselves a study in contrast and a postcard of cultural ambition.

The very cubic new Guangdong Museum, with an irregular, Mondrianesque pattern of punched windows deeply set in the façade, was designed by Hong Kong architect Rocco Yim and faces, on the opposite side of the plaza, the very organic Guangzhou Opera House, by Zaha Hadid Architects, another

Guangzhou

the International Finance Center development.

C

hina’s huge population has required huge buildings, but there are Lilliputian efforts in the country’s architectural Brobdingnag. Japanese architect Kengo Kuma led a group of architects in the recently completed Sanlitun Village, in Beijing, inspired by the city’s courtyard houses and low-rise hutong neighborhoods. The shops, a collection of minimalist cubes, encircle depressed courtyards— one cube has a façade of oversize polka dots.

Beijing’s up-and-coming MAD Architects added the stainless-steel Hutong Bubble 32 to the corner of an old Beijing building, breathing fresh architectural air into the courtyard complex and the otherwise uneventful neighborhood. The jewel is hidden within one of Beijing’s still thriving hutongs. In a trendy arts complex in the Yangpu district of Shanghai, Philip F. Yuan of Archi-Union Architects built a back office for the firm that he calls “the teahouse,” with curves of concrete and spaces that reimagine the tradition of a teahouse.

Wang Shu, the 2012 Pritzker Architecture Prize winner, also started small, establishing a boutique practice, Amateur Architecture Studio, and operating outside the expectations of most architects hired to construct China’s large-scale trophies.

ningbo

the ningbo history museum, designed by Wang shu, this year’s Pritzker winner.

Beijing

the hutong bubble 32, by mad architects.

masterpiece in China’s new and growing collection. Hadid won the competition for the opera house when she presented paired structures, the main stage and a smaller black-box hall, as rocks smoothed over by a stream.

On the opposite bank of the Pearl River, the visually stunning and structurally ambitious Canton Tower, briefly the tallest completed tower in the world when it topped out in 2010, offers a rooftop observation deck with a drop-dead panorama.

Designed by Dutch architects Mark Hemel and Barbara Kuit of Information Based Architecture (IBA), together with Arup, the international engineers, the building’s LED lights create rainbows of shifting color.

Under construction nearby is another exercise in acrobatics, a vast commercial and office block of daringly cantilevered floors, all set askew, by Andrew Bromberg of Aedas Architects in Hong Kong.

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Working with craftsmen and with materials recycled from buildings lost to China’s tsunami of modernization, Wang has cultivated an architecture inspired by the country’s ancient traditions of calligraphy and scroll paintings, which venerate nature. He designed the classroom and dormitory buildings at the Xiangshan Campus of the China Academy of Art, outside Hangzhou, as Modernist garden pavilions, notable for their use of raw concrete, natural woods and generous interior spaces, all conceived poetically as microcosms of the larger landscape. At his powerful, moving and even mysterious Ningbo History Museum, Wang used rubble throughout his design, with full confidence in his unorthodox and contrarian methods.

Wang may represent the shifting of the tide: China, which has been a net importer of architecture, may be on the verge of its first architectural exports, an emerging group of Chinese talents aware of their own unique roots. ✚

L e F t: s h u h e /C o u r t e s y o F m a d a r C h I t e C t s . r I g h t: LV h e n g Z h o n g /C o u r t e s y o F t h e P r I t Z K e r a r C h I t e C t u r e P r I Z e

a head that cantilevers over a lake; this is where the CEO’s offices and boardroom are located. The zigzagging forms of the building dig into the landscape, hunkering into the ground.

The Hilton niseko and the ski village.

Ticket to Glide

Want to go skiing this winter but don’t know where to start? Here’s the lowdown on how you, whether novice or expert, can make the most out of Asia’s ski runs. by catharine nicol

C o u r t e s y o F a L P e n s I a K o r e a . o P P o s I t e : C o u r t e s y o F h I Lt o n n I s e K o V I L L a g e

Skiing in Japan, Korea and China has never been more popular.

W

e slid gingerly up to the edge of the piste, pointing our skis towards the entrance of Gate 3, where the deep virgin powder dipped away. Above us were the tiny figures of boarders and skiers trudging up to the absolute peak, higher than the lifts, ready for the thrill of the first run. Below us, Hirafu’s maze of pistes and forest fell away, while breaking the far horizon was the perfect cone of Mount Yotei on Hokkaido. Through the crisp, clear air the lifts echoed faintly across the mountain as if in musical conversation. But enough procrastinating—we were skiing out of our first gate, far from the groomed safety of the trails. My ski buddy and I shared a complicit look, a clear “let’s go” despite the muffling layers of scarfs, hats, helmets and goggles, and we were off.

Leaning back, our ski tips cut up through the powder’s surface, sending sprays of talc-light snow up into the air where it floated momentarily, diamond dust glinting in the sun. Our turns became gradually smoother and less panicked until nonchalance and muscle exhaustion had me catching an edge and tumbling in a flurry of snow, skis and poles. Laughing and unhurt, I brushed the snow from my goggles and set about righting myself, not easy when in thigh-high powder.

Back on-piste, more or less in one piece, we returned to my favorite slopes, weaving through the laden trees, their shadows painting gray gnarled fingers on the sparkling snow, trying to beat our 70 kilometer-per-hour top speed measured on our new favorite app, Ski Tracks. Hunkered down, scanning for bumps, straining to keep balance, we were on a skiing high. Who needs Europe when Asia has such great mountains? t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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niseko Skiing in Niseko is seriously addictive, attracting foreigners as far back as the late 80’s. The four main interconnected ski areas, making up 61 runs accessed by 38 gondalas and lifts with one ski pass, include Hirafu, which leads up from the center of the town, sandwiched between Hanazono on one side, beloved by freestylers, and Niseko Village and An’nupuri on the other. Further out are Moiwa and Weiss. The long season stretches from the end of November to early May on a good year, thanks to the Siberian winds that help produce the airy powder.

The Aussies have made Niseko their home away from home, precipitating a property boom of modern condos and chalets that has gone somewhat flat over recent years. Shared chalets are the most popular form of accommodation, but there are a few ski-in ski-out hotels. Among them are the Hilton niseko (81-13/644-1111; niseko. hilton.com; doubles from ¥24,500) and Green Leaf niseko Village (81-13/644-3311; thegreenleafhotel.com/en; doubles from ¥19,000); both are in Niseko Village, a few minutes drive away from Hirafu. The Hilton’s onsen is one of the best in the area— take a dip at night overlooking a lake and horizon of pines. Most exclusive is The Vale (81-13/621-5811; thevaleniseko.com; doubles from ¥28,000) a great example of the sleek, stylishly modern condos that pepper Hirafu, with elegant, spacious rooms sporting open fireplaces.

Whatever your thoughts of being in a Japanese town where the conversation is peppered with “g’day” more often than “konnichiwa,” the Aussies have brought their “no worries mate” attitude with them, and are apparently largely responsible for insisting on the off-piste skiing culture, forbidden in many other areas. These days Cantonese and Mandarin, as well as Malaysian and Singaporean accents join the mix, especially around Chinese New Year.

Almost as famous as the powder is the après-ski in Hirafu. In fact, there’s also preski with big breakfasts at J Sekka’s Deli, and mid-ski with lots of places to fuel up on the slopes. Avoid the characterless canteens and head instead for log cabins with early ramen lunches at Boyoso, a thawing hot chocolate mid-afternoon at Paradise Hut and a cheeky sake at the 1,000-meter-high Hut. Après-ski, an onsen dip is the perfect thing to soothe aching muscles, ensuring they recover to ski another day.

And last, but certainly not least, Hirafu’s narrow streets are full of bars like the cozy Big Foot Lodge or J Sekka to start the evening reliving the day’s action over a few beers

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Hirafu’s narrow streets are full of bars to start the evening reliving the day’s action over a few cocktails in front of a crackling fire

C o u r t e s y o F t h e Va L e . o P P o s I t e : C o u r t e s y o F a L P e n s I a K o r e a

JaPan

The sleek and stylish penthouse at The Vale in Hirafu.

Take to the slopes and you may be following the Chinese ski team in training on the renowned A5 slope nicknamed ‘Road for the Brave’

or cocktails in front of a crackling fire. Restaurants like A-Bu-Cha-2 and Izakaya Raku serve up Hokkaido specialities, like the delicious in-shell scallops cooked in butter.

After dinner, walk along the freezing streets to hidden Gyu bar; Blo Blo and its X-rated wallpaper; the Ice Bar that’s recarved in a different site every year; and Wild Bills where it all gets dangerously messy. niseko.ne.jp/en; ski passes from ¥3,300. rusutsu Rusutsu Resort (81-13/646-3111; en.rusutsu.co.jp; ski passes from ¥5,300), slightly closer to Sapporo’s Chitose International Airport, is more family-oriented, with the Rusutsu Tower providing two-wing accommodation in Western or tatami-style rooms, plus the more attractive log houses and cottages, for 37 runs and 42 kilometers of skiing.

While queues in Niseko can pile up, in Rusutsu, especially mid-week, you often have the piste to yourself. Set out for first tracks in the morning to ski the pristine corduroy (left by the ploughs) before the slopes get carved up, or take advantage of a fresh layer of snow by booking the early Snowcat Tour up Mount Isola to ski virgin slopes.

Moguls, wide piste highways, narrow lanes weaving through the forest, and tree skiing keep Rusutsu varied. There are cross country trails and a chance to go snow shoeing too. Have kids? This slope has plenty to keep the little ones occupied, from dog sledding, a park and a day care center. Now that you have time to yourself, you can relax in the onsen or wave pool.

West Mount has slopes for beginners as well as black diamond runs. Cruise across to West Mountain, weaving your way over to Mount Isola. Super East, leading down from East Mountain, and Isola-A, leading from Mount Isola, are two of the higher double diamond black runs, with moguls and occasional ice upping the challenge.

Follow your fellow skiers to Steamboat, the huge canteen-style restaurant where refueling comes in the form of Japanese comfort food, and windows fog up as bodies thaw and tonkatsu with curry sauce and ramen fragrantly steam. Rusutsu is sadly devoid of the charming log cabins found in Niseko and the nightlife is more PG too, with the hotel’s two Japanese restaurants predictably the best bet in-house. There’s a handful of izakaya well worth the short walk down the road for a bit of village charm.

korea

Alpensia Pyeongchang Resort, just three hours from Seoul.

PYeonGcHanG Korea’s ski areas are developing fast, buoyed by the upcoming 2018 Winter Olympic Games. Several mountains rely on artificial snow, however, compromising the quality of skiing. A rule of thumb is that the further you travel from the capital city the better the snow and the fewer the crowds.

Set within the Taebaek Mountains about three hours from Seoul, Alpensia Pyeongchang Resort (82-33/339-0000; ichotelsgroup.com; doubles from W129,900) is the ski resort of choice in Korea. Off-piste activities include Ocean 700, a huge water park, Kids Club Planet Trekkers and the Spa Club CMA. As the nearest slopes are best suited to intermediate and beginner skiers, advanced skiers stay at the luxury resort but follow the athletes-in-training to Yongpyong for the day.

With 28 slopes that run as flat as beginner and as steep as expert Yongpyong (8233/335-5757; yongpyong.co.kr/eng; ski passes from W65,000) is the biggest ski resort in the area. Several runs are international racing standard, and while boarders head for Dragon Park, most skiers head straight for the Rainbow slopes, a 20-minute ride up, and the intense workout that is Rainbow Paradise, more than 5 kilometers long.

cHina

Yabuli In China’s northeast, Yabuli is best accessed by flying into Harbin or on an overnight train from Beijing. It’s made its name as the birthplace of China’s ski culture. Take to the slopes and you may be following in the tracks of the Chinese national ski team in training, on the renowned A5 slope nicknamed “Road for the Brave.”

Club Med Yabuli (86-2/8760-7401; clubmed.com.cn; seven-night minimum, allinclusive packages from RMB16,000) has brought plenty of international attention to the area. With their all-inclusive deals, including ski hire, ski school and après-ski drinks, as well as ski-in ski-out location, it’s a tempting destination. There is plenty of family-friendly fun with a 2-kilometer sledding route, ski tubing, an indoor flying trapeze and, of course, Karaoke. yabuliski.com/english; ski passes from RMB180. ✚

One of the ski runs at Club Med Yabuli in China.

other ski runs around asia JaPan Furano, Hokkaido, Japan has some of the longest and steepest runs in the country. there are two mountains of pistes here, all accessed with one lift ticket, but off-piste skiing is prohibited. 8116/722-5777; skifurano.com; ski passes from ¥4,500.

Sahoro, Hokkaido, Japan is home to another Club med destination, renowned for its back-country forest skiing, local cuisine and Zen-style onsen soaking. 81-15/664-7111; sahoro.co.jp; ski passes from ¥4,820. nozawa Onsen, nagano, Japan is based around a traditional village, where skiers can immerse themselves in the local culture and numerous hot springs while staying in ryokan accommodation. 81-55/5326026; nozawaholidays.com; ski passes from ¥4,600.

Shiga Kogen, nagano, Japan is just an hour and a half from nagano. a huge area of 21 resorts, it is famous for the snow monkeys soaking themselves in nearby Jigokudani monkey Park’s hot springs. 81-26/934-2404; shigakogen.gr.jp; ski passes from ¥4,800.

cHina nanshan Ski Resort, China an easy drive for beijingers at the weekend, try to target nanshan’s eight multi-level pistes mid-week to avoid the crush. 86-2/89091909; nanshanski.com; ski passes from RMB120.

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C o u r t e s y o F C L u b m e d ya b u L I

korea High1, Korea a four-hour ride from seoul on a train equipped with a dJ, high1 is one of the highest ski areas in the country. the long trip from seoul thins the crowds somewhat and the snow is mostly real on its 18 pistes.

82-1/1588-7789; high1 com; ski passes from W54,000.

Deogyusan Ski Resort, Korea deogyusan seolcheon mountain rises up to 1,520 meters and challenges skiers with the country’s longest piste, an exhausting 6.1-kilometer, nonstop run. at its foot is a natural hot spring. 82-63/322-9000; mdysresort.com; ski passes from W68,000.

t’s telling that Michelin-starred restaurant Fortaleza do Guincho chose Macau for its first outpost outside of Portugal, opening the doors to Guincho a Galera in the glitzy Hotel Lisboa in January. With richly upholstered armchairs and ornate tchotchkes, it might as well be the drawing room of some European aristocrats—if they had recently gone to Asia and brought back a smattering of curios to scatter about. A dragon-addled carved box here, an emerald gilded vase there. In between the atmosphere is hushed and refined, with groups of well-heeled patrons chatting softly as they swirl their wine glasses. They’re diving into traditional dishes made luxurious with top-shelf ingredients and delicate plating—for example, seafood rice with Boston lobster. Luckily, lest the environment feel too stiff to enjoy, a warm and efficient wait staff make it all too easy to lean back into the plush navy fabric of my seat. As dish after impeccable dish starts to arrive on the table, I realize this is not just any meal.

Guincho a Galera’s mission is to take the conventional elements of Portuguese food and dress it up it for a modern, savvy audience. “We use the staple ingredients—like potatoes, olives, tomatoes and fish—and present them in innovative ways,” says manager Eric Wong. The restaurant takes authenticity seriously; Wong went on a yearlong crash course in Portuguese food and wine before the restaurant even opened. Guincho a Galera’s offerings are in sync with Macau’s erstwhile colonial roots, to be sure, but dining here feels different than some smaller, family-run joint serving Portuguese fare. The attention to detail is painstaking; even the breadbasket was a work of art.

(Appetite alert: it includes soft, airy banana rolls paired with banana butter, plus another loaf containing chorizo and cheese).

The story of Macau—China’s gambling enclave, which tiptoed onto the world’s radar as a one-casino monopoly but has, in the decade since, exploded into a free-for-all construction zone with revenues that leave Las Vegas in the dust—is one of growth at a breakneck pace. For high-rollers and avid shoppers,

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Macau remains a worthwhile, even desirous, destination. But what about for gourmands? Vegas has its Mario Batali-backed goliaths, but how does this former Portuguese colony stack up? I set out to try Macau’s newest eateries and determine whether rampant economic expansion has brought with it the kind of food that would make this 21-squarekilometer territory worth the trip for the even the most discerning of diners. At Guincho a Galera, the answer is a definite yes.

With that in mind, I head to Taipa and hunt down a trendy pastry shop. Launched earlier this year, co-owner Jerry Lei teamed up with Cordon Bleutrained Nicole Lei (no relation, but they are dating now) to create Kafka, a hidden gem located down an inconspicuous street near some car dealerships and fast-food joints. Once inside the packed café, a glance at the clientele assures me that, though the Venetian is not far away, this place is populated by local hipsters rather than the casino-going crowd.

(It’s obvious that the customer with a tattooed arm sleeve and piercings spearing a sweet with a fork wouldn’t really fit in at the Venetian, anyway.) In a cozy space with Moleskine notebooks covering the walls, Kafka serves up a Japanese-inspired French menu, with rich, dainty rose and passion fruit cakes as well as some made with green tea and red bean, and even a literal toast box made out of sugary bread and adorned with honeycomb and dripping with caramel. Drinks are another specialty; both Leis recommend the green tea latte and the homemade caramel latte. A vintage coffee-making machine sits in the corner; they take their java seriously here.

It turns out, that’s a good thing, because the caffeine helps propel me to my next stop: Kam Lai Heen, a Chinese restaurant at the 29-year-old Grand Lapa, a Mandarin Oriental-owned property. Plate after plate of Cantonese staples is placed on big round tables surrounded by generations sharing weekend dim sum; they may all be together, but the parents have their noses in newspapers and the children subtly tap away on video games under the tablecloth. When Grand Lapa gave itself a makeover last year, Kam Lai Heen was overhauled along with it, earning a new name and a new chef. A veteran of five-star hotel kitchens, Allan Tse re-taught his staff how to make quintessential dishes the right way: roast pork (siu yuk); barbecued pork (char siu); Peking duck and all the rest. He makes his own tofu,

Clockwise from top left: A waitress sets up at Guincho a Galera; Peking duck at the restaurant; the bar at the Tasting Room; seafood on ice at Sky 21; sleek lines at Sky 21; colorful cakes at Kafka Café. t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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and dresses up the traditional har gow (steamed shrimp dumplings) by using lobster. Tse says his focus is on classic dishes with up-to-date presentation (read: more deliberate than plopping some stir-fry on a plate.) He’s not worried about having his food compete against the allure of the blackjack table. Reasons Tse, “After gambling, they’ve got to eat, right?”

The family-style Chinese feast under chandeliers is a far cry from my next stop, Sky 21, a sleek restaurant with a stellar view decked out in muted, mature hues. It serves up pan-Asian fare, making the menu an odd polyamory of Indian curries, sushi, spicy Thai salads and even—incongruously—some traditional Macanese dishes, too. In the place of a breadbasket is a bowl of crisp papadums and shrimp chips. The raw bar inspires me to order a surprisingly affordable sampling of six oysters.

Given that the chef has a background in Thai food and that there’s also a Japanese-trained master at work in the kitchen, I order tom yum and a meaty fish with a crunchy crust covered in sweet, tangy teriyaki sauce. Considering the ambitious breadth of the menu, the dishes are solid if not all home runs. Upstairs from the dim dining room, which is centered around a see-through wine cellar, is a bar with outdoor and indoor seating boasting lovely panoramas from the fluorescent, flower-shaped behemoth that is the distinctive Grand Lisboa to the many bridges spanning the waterway to Taipa. Next time, I’m going to order off the downstairs menu on the high tables outside and take in the vista along with a cocktail.

On to The Tasting Room at the City of Dreams, a restaurant that opened in April. Though it’s one mere cog within this mega casino complex, The Tasting Room feels spacious and sophisticated.

Young French chef Guillame Galliot, who earned a reputation at the Raffles Grill in Singapore’s eponymous hotel, was tapped to bring his innovative dishes and imaginative take on modern European cuisine to Macau. Take his onion soup: the hot, viscous stock contains a textured marmalade of onions, topped with a scoop of cold, onion-flavored ice cream that melts into the mix.

Making for an impressive display, the broth is poured right in front of me from a giant teapot. The soup itself is hearty and refreshing, but its elaborate presentation stands out. The meal continues with more nuances. The Wagyu beef tenderloin is brought out for my examination on a bed of

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steaming kindling—it’s just been smoked—so that I can inhale its aroma; the signature mille-feuille is carefully layered so that the crunchy, creamy, sweet and bitter parts all intermingle. The Tasting Room also has a chocolate bar, and several seating areas for those who may want a cocktail and a meticulously constructed canapé instead of a multicourse meal. Given Macau’s nascent food scene, an eight-course degustation menu comes out to an astonishingly affordable MOP1,000 per person (more if you want wine pairings, but still a bargain in light of the cost of a comparable meal over in nearby Hong Kong). Before the meal, chef Galliot will come out for a jovial chat, ascertain your preferences and tailor the dishes to your tastes. It’s a far cry from the wonton soup some gamblers slurp between rounds, that’s for sure. “Macau isn’t just for gaming. Food is one of the factors,” Galliot says. “It’s getting better and better. People come and want an experience. They want to discover.”

Weeks after my indulgent adventure, I think back to the dessert cart at Guincho a Galera. Stacked with serradura, pumpkin cake, crème caramel, rice mousse and more, the variety is overwhelming— sort of like the selection of good, new eats in Macau itself. I watch as a glass of sweet Portuguese dessert wine is poured, take a sip of water from my crystal goblet and wish my stomach would expand a little bit more, just for today, so I can fit in as much of this modern Macanese cuisine as possible before my ferry leaves. ✚

macau menus Guincho a Galera 3/F, Lisboa Tower, Hotel Lisboa, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa; 853/8803-7676; hotelisboa.com/diningguincho_ a_galera-en; dinner for two MOP1,600.

Kam Lai Heen Grand Lapa Macau, 956-1110 Avenida da Amizade; 853/8793-3821; mandarinoriental.com/ grandlapa; dinner for two MOP700.

Kafka 152 Rue de Braga, Taipa; 853/2882-0086

kafkasweets.com; afternoon coffee and dessert for two MOP200.

Sky 21 21/F, AIA Tower, 251A-301 Avenida Commercial de Macau; 853/2822-2122; sky21macau.com; dinner for two MOP1,200.

The Tasting Room 3/F, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada Do Istmo, Cotai, 853/8868-6681; cityofdreamsmacau.com/ restaurant/signature; dinner for two MOP2,000.

Clockwise from top left: nicole Lei of Kafka Café; beef tenderloin at Kam Lai Heen; Guincho a Galera restaurant; at Kafka Café; a cake at the café; Guincho a Galera’s chef; dessert at the Tasting Room; abalone at Kam Lai Heen; inside the Tasting Room.

At the Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Theater Museum.

Best of the Century

Uncovering Taiwan’s history is a journey best made by visiting its 100-year-old institutions.

John Krich leads the way around the island.

photographed by alberto buzzo l a

A double happiness cake at Kuo Yuan Ye Bakery, left. Moungar Traces of Books is housed in a century-old building in Taipei, below.

A

n hour off the main highway through western Taiwan, Lukang is a former port city crammed with hallucinatory temples and narrow brick lanes that ooze history. Most make the pilgrimage here for the traditional buns and cakes of A-Zen Bakery. Seven generations of Chengs have put out the same doughy buns, dumplings and “Cow’s Tongues,” a sort of enlarged sesame cookie. Proud to remain unchanged on an island transformed by Cold War rivalries and high-tech manufacturing, this ever-packed main street storefront, surrounded by shops hawking hand-painted temple deities, is perhaps the most archetypal of all the country’s socalled 100-year-old enterprises—designated by government boards and celebrated by word of mouth, honored by loyal clientele and tradition-scavenging tourists alike.

Given the endless dynastic continuum of the world’s oldest civilization, 100 years may seem like a single raindrop. But Taiwan, despite its current prosperity, was a rural backwater for the majority of its past—making it rare to find much that has survived through the last century of Japanese occupation,

Nationalist takeovers and, most destructive of all, the quick march to modernity à la Dunkin Donuts. So to make it a whole 100 years here is a more impressive feat than the falsely marketed “century eggs” or “thousand-year-old eggs,” which have really only been preserved for six months, might lead you to believe.

The problem is that many of Taiwan’s golden oldies have also become well-established, trusted brand names. Inevitably, even some local bakeries have have become modern marvels of marketing replete with gift-wrapped boxes and giant wedding cakes. Still, if you can overlook the kitsch, the founding branch of Taipei’s Kuo Yuan Ye merits a visit. A mounted chronology next to the front door attests to continuous family stewardship since 1867 and, upon request, there’s a surprisingly large museum about the history of traditional Chinese pastry in Taiwan upstairs, open for inspection by school kids on field trips. And the front cases are still packed with Kuo Yuan Ye’s trademarked flaky bean paste buns. With a dry, delicately layered texture that calls to mind Greek phyllo confections, yet with a discreet sweetness that is fundamentally Chinese, these pastries are as popular now as they were a century ago. Another specialty are pineapple tarts molded into elongated teardrops to mimic the geographic outline of Taiwan.

Yet the charm of many of the 100-year club members is that they make no attempt whatsoever to exaggerate their age t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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Wang Lian-Yuan at the Wang You-Ji Tea Shop, left.

Zai Fa Hao restaurant, eight generations old, below.

through false décor or showy facades. So humble is the charnel house non-atmosphere at Jin Chu Fa Beef Noodles—that quintessentially Taiwanese bowl of heartiness—that it’s difficult to believe it could have been located on this same obscure Taipei street corner since 1897 (except for portraits of prized cattle from their farm and a “wall of fame” where thousands have scrawled tributes in black markers).

Driving along industrial Zhong Shan Road, you’d hardly notice that a single block showcases one of the city’s oldest purveyors of traditional wooden vessels in addition to the famed and well-documented Kuo’s Fetal Brushes. This gimmick has been successfully drawing clientele for unspecified decades. In these beautiful sets of calligraphy instruments, the hard bristles drooping from bamboo handles aren’t shaped from the usual horsehair, but custom-made from the collected clippings off the near-bald heads of beloved babies. It is worth noting that the hair comes from newborns, not fetuses as the mistranslated name “fetal” brushes implies.

The child’s footprint is also captured on the front of the box that holds these artistic tools turned Disney mementos.

Instead of bronzed shoes, or a lock of hair in a drawer, the Taiwanese put these keepsakes of childhood to a far more practical, and artistic, use.

I take an elevator to an upper floor of a nondescript office building to find the single-room lair of one, if not the last one, of Taiwan’s tailors for traditional, Shanghai-style qipao.

Through an eager, English-speaking apprentice, I learn that the wispy-bearded master Chu Rong-I has been at this for nearly half the century, and that there is a two-year wait for one of his

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slinky creations, where even the silk clasps are hand-twisted and the cost of fabric alone can run up to NT$30,000.

Perhaps all these “oldies” lack context because Taipei is simply too developed. A more promising hunting ground for “hundred year” treasure is the southern hub, and former capital of the island, Tainan. Here at least, the gritty pancake shops and humble noodle twisters are set in the shadow of formidably evocative city battlements. Among many quasi-stalls putting out hearty snacks along historic Guohua Street, Zai Fa Hao has been steaming luscious zongzi, bamboo-leaf triangles stuffed with glutinous rice, meats and gingko, since 1872.

In the end, when stalking 19th-century remnants, it may be more fruitful to let go of all lists and strike out on one’s own.

When I ask to inspect a lantern maker, surely the easiest request in any Chinese land, tourism authorities send me to the showroom of a factory that churns out huge lanterns for floats and parades, most modern in theme and made of fiberglass and foam rather than paper. Not the authentic experience I was after. So when I went in search of one of Taiwan’s most vivid craft traditions—puppet making—inherited by waves of migrants from nearby Fujian province, I decide to choose my own representative example. And the Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Theater Museum, lovingly run by an appreciative Dutchman, is a hidden wonder—four stories of dolls and displays, a truly thorough evocation of the life of local, folkloric puppet theater.

They even house their own resident puppet maker, a younger gent who does not warrant the 100-year-old title, but nonetheless sculpts characters out of wood in the timehonored manner.

Jin Chu Fa Beef noodles’s signature dish, above. Chu Rong-I at the tailor shop that bears his name, right.

Best of all, when I ask if there might any other ancient finds in these neighborhoods, I am pointed around the corner to find the uncharted, unlabeled wonder that is Dihua Street.

Instantly, I know I have arrived at the true upholder of the 100year tradition—several long blocks of arcaded shops fronted with elaborately sculpted facades of Chinese and European influence. Most of these Chinese medicinal pharmacies, with their bins of fragrant herbs and remedies, have been carrying on since at least the 1850’s in what turns out to Taipei’s oldest continuous market area. Even better than the architecture, redbrick feel and surprisingly tranquil atmosphere, I spy no other tourists, no plaques of touristic distinction, no silly recreations of the past—and only a few harbingers of gentrification in the form of tasteful cafés and stores offering trendily minimalist ceramics in the Japanese style.

Asking around, I am pointed down an alley leading into a pocket urban park to find a 100-year-old teahouse. But this is hardly the imagined tiled-roofed gazebo. Instead, the simply decorated building acts as a showroom for the roasting business founded in 1897 by Wang Jing-Hui and a remnant of Taipei’s old “tea zone.” In the back, antique roasting and winnowing apparatuses are on display, along with old men sorting and inspecting the curled buds of local oolong in round bamboo trays. They’re more than happy to brew up free samples of this high altitude delicacy, deftly pouring water in, over and around tiny clay pots with ritualistic precision. And the man doing the pouring is sure to be one of the generations of Wangs.

Encouraged, I take a final morning to make an expedition through the core Mangka neighborhood around Taipei’s most

seminal Longshan Temple. I don’t see any food shops claiming ancient roots (most bakeries are plastered with posters honoring Taiwan’s homegrown baseball stars). But just across from the square surrounding the subway entrance for the temple, I stumbled on Moungar Traces of Books. This jumbled collection of unsorted used volumes is housed in a magnificently high-ceilinged shop, held up by massive timber beams as evocative as the various mounted old photos, tin cans and curiosities of where and how people lived in the decades before Ang Lee or Acer. Like many of the 100-year-olds, it imparts the feel and flavor of Taiwan back when a century could float past in an instant. ✚

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t l Guide A-Zen Bakery 71 Zhongshan Rd., Section 2, Lugang; 886-4/7772754; www.a-zen.com.tw.

Chu Rong-I Qipao No. 122, Bo’ai Rd., 6F-2, Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei; 886-2/2361-3336; chinesedress.pixnet.net/blog.

Jin Chu Fa Beef noodles 20 Tianshui Rd., Taipei; 886-2/25589835.

Kuo’s Brushes No. 90, Sec. 1, Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongzheng Dist., Taipei; 886-2/2567-3639; baby168.com.tw.

Kuo Yuan Ye Bakery 7F, 546 Wen Lin Rd., Shin Lin, Taipei; 886-

2/2832-1988; www.kuos.com.

Lin Liu-Hsin Puppet Theater Museum 79 Xining N. Rd., Taipei; 886-2/2556-8909; taipeipuppet. com; closed Mondays.

Moungar Traces of Books No. 4, Lane 152, Guangzhou St., Wanhua District, Taipei; 8862/2446-2181.

Wang You-Ji Tea Shop No. 26 Lane 64, Chung King N. Rd., Section 2, Taipei; 886-2/25559164; wangtea.com.tw.

Zai Fa Hao 71 Minquan Rd., Section 2, Tainan; 886-6/2223577.

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Next Great Neighborhood

THe HAUTMARAIS, PARIS Off Rue Charlot in the Third, kat e be t ts explores a style nexus with buzzy restaurants, formidable food stalls and chic boutiques. p hotog r a p h e d by ja m es m e r r e l l 122

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Hand-painted porcelain and child-size chairs at Les FĂŠes, in the Upper Marais.

Opposite: Pedaling past the olive oils at Première Pression Provence.

Clockwise from far left: Coffee at Hôtel du Petit Moulin; Scandinavian accessories at nØrdik Mårket; inside L’Habilleur.

B

ack in the late 14th century, when King Charles V held court in Paris’s Marais neighborhood, one of the best addresses was Rue de Sévigné, where for the next three centuries French nobility built ornate limestone mansions. Today those mansions house must-see museums like the Picasso (Hôtel Salé) and the Carnavalet (Hôtel Carnavalet). But as far as the population goes, well, the royals are history, of course, and lately the cool crowd has been creeping north to what is known as the Haut-Marais, or Upper Marais, a tangle of tiny streets that run from the Picasso Museum to the Place de la République. Blame this recent migration on Bonpoint founder Marie-France Cohen, who opened her multi-brand fashion and décor shop, Merci, in an old wallpaper factory in 2009. Ever since, foodies and fashionistas have been flocking to the low-key, formerly working-class area to ogle Merci’s wildly creative displays of housewares, fragrances and fashion before grabbing lunch at Grazie, the pizza restaurant opened last year by Cohen’s son, Julien, and then touring the local galleries of now-established neighborhood art dealers like Thaddaeus Ropac and Yvon Lambert. A slew of new Midcentury Modern galleries are popping up, including Mobilier 54, which sells a selection of Eames, Knoll and Bertoia. For more eclectic decorative objects like taxidermy birds and Roos Van de Velde porcelain, Les Fées, farther down Rue Charlot, is another favorite.

As a fashion editor, I spent years schlepping to this corner of Paris to see Yohji Yamamoto runway shows at the Carreau du Temple, a nearby covered market that was the site of a prison during the French Revolution. I have also paid many a visit to Chez Omar, on Rue de Bretagne, for heaping bowls of lamb- and merguez-sausage couscous. But I never ventured far beyond Rue de Bretagne until a recent trip to Paris

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foodies and fashionistas have been flocking to the formerly workingclass area to ogle wildly creative displays

Clockwise from above: An apple-andsalted-caramel tarte at Tartes Kluger; outside Les Fées; two floors of housewares at Merci.

when, after the obligatory tour of Merci, I decided to continue north along Rue Charlot and discovered the wonderful food stalls at the Marché des Enfants Rouges, Paris’s oldest food market, with its fresh produce, fish, beef and flowers. You can also sample an international array of prepared foods—sushi, tagines, pasta, crêpes—at outdoor tables. In typical French fashion, a store called Première Pression Provence sells an astonishing array of olive oil and olive-oil-based products, including MéliMélo Provençal, with artichokes, red peppers and basil.

In fact, there are so many different kinds of places to eat lunch or dinner in this neck of the Marais that it’s hard to choose. Tartes Kluger, the creation of Catherine Kluger, a former music industry executive, serves both sweet and savory slices with a choice of salad or soup. You can sit at the communal table or take out. Across the street, the line forms early for lunch every day at the new outpost of Occidental-Japanese favorite Nanashi, where chef Kaori Endo fills bento boxes with house specials and serves tiny brioche pizzas, organic spring rolls and hake with wakame sauce. The slightly undone Swedish-schoolroom-inspired interiors designed by Clarisse Demory are visible from the street, as is the open kitchen.

Even some of the neighborhood’s trendiest fashion boutiques seem to have a natural connection to food: they’re often located in old boulangeries, like the Isabel Marant store on Rue Saintonge. Instead of pain aux raisins or pain de campagne, the large vitrines feature Marant’s chiffon dresses in delicate floral prints and coveted wedge-heeled sneakers. Fashion and food also convene at the Hôtel du Petit Moulin, another former bakery, where each of the 17 rooms, decorated by Christian Lacroix, has a different color scheme and blown-up copies of the designer’s couture sketches.

The quintessentially French finishing touch: the toiletries are from Hermès. ✚

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6 Rue de Forez; tarteskluger.com; tarts for two €13.

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boutique along with hand-painted porcelain, rustic henri Quinta furniture and stuffed birds. 19 Rue Charlot; 33-1/43-70-14-76.

6 Première Pression Provence Chefs and olive-oil obsessives alike will be thrilled with the overwhelming selection of flavors and products. 35 Rue Charlot; ppprovence.com.

A brioche pizza at nanashi. nanashi Wildly popular organic Japanese food. Come early to get a table at lunchtime.

57 Rue Charlot; 33-1/44-61-4549; bento lunches for two €30.

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7 Comme des Garçons Pocket Wherever arty Parisians go, so too will rei Kawakubo of Comme des garçons. this postage-stamp-size shop sells t-shirts, perfume and small leather goods. 31 Rue Debelleyme; 33-1/42-72-15-12.

The Comme des Garçons Pocket shop.

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12 Bonton the kids’ version of merci, complete with adorable displays of sparkly start-rite mary Janes, Liberty-print smock dresses and birthday-party piñatas. 5 Blvd. des Filles du Calvaire; bonton.fr.

A vintage Fiat greets shoppers at Merci.

9 L’Habilleur Known for its discounted designer clothes, this shop also sells beautiful scarves woven by hand in India. 44 Rue de Poitou; 33-1/48-87-77-12.

10 Hôtel du Petit Moulin not only did Christian Lacroix design this hotel but the building also once housed the bakery where Victor hugo allegedly bought his bread. 29/31 Rue de Poitou; hotelpetitmoulinparis.com; doubles from €190.

Mobilier 54 In addition to midcentury gems by eames, Paulin, Knoll and bertoia, this newish gallery also sells vintage rolex and Zenith watches. 54/56 Rue Charlot; mobilier54.com.

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Marché des enfants Rouges grab a plate of sushi, a crêpe or even chicken tagine at Paris’s oldest market. 39 Rue de Bretagne; 33-1/40-11-20-40.

Scarves at L’Habilleur.

china bowls and vases and markku salo glassware. 13 Rue Charlot; nordikmarket.com.

11 nørdik Mårket this scandinavian concept store sells 1960’s furniture and accessories like ditte Fischer

13 Merci Profits at this must-see concept shop are donated to charity, hence the name. 111 Blvd. Beaumarchais; merci-merci.com.

14 Grazie Pizzas (more like giant fresh salads on a plate of dough) and artisanal gelato served up in a “bobo”-chic decor.

91 Blvd. Beaumarchais; 33-1/ 42-78-11-96; dinner for two €42.

our definitive Guide to

The Red City is on a roll: enterprising locals and expats are reinterpreting Moroccan traditions across fashion, architecture, food and nightlife, from neighborhoods as varied as GuĂŠliz, in the new city, to the medina, to Sidi Ghanem, a former industrial zone turned design district.

Maria Shollenbarger scopes out the scene.

Photographed by Alvaro Leiva

The entrance to the Spa at the Royal Mansour Marrakech, in the medina. t r av e l a n d l e i s u r e a s i a . c o m

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designed in the early 20th century by the orientalist painter Jacques majorelle and acquired in 1980

by Pierre bergé and yves saint Laurent, the 5-hectare botanical gardens have colorful local flora, along with a small café, bookshop and the musée berbère, with berber art from saint Laurent’s own collection. Rue Yves Saint Laurent; jardinmajorelle.com.

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maison de la PHotoGraPHie

this riad museum hosts rotating exhibitions of more than 6,000 original photographs, most of them quotidian scenes taken between 1870 and the 1950’s. the building, one of the medina’s tallest, houses a tea salon on its roof; stop for a steaming cup and take in the view of the city rooftops. 46 Rue Souk Ahal Fes; maisondela photographie.ma.

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medersa ben Youssef

one of the largest Koranic schools in morocco, the 15thcentury ben youssef (attached to the mosque of the same name) is a stunning confluence of carved cedar, zellij tile work and ornate stucco. book a private tour, which includes visits to the minuscule dormitory spaces where some of the 900-odd students lived. Place Ben Youssef; museede marrakech.ma.

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Four spots not to miss, from a 1930’s garden to an over-the-top spa.

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Proprietor King mohammed VI’s hotel is a showcase of moroccan artisanship, and the 2,500-squaremeter, white-filigreeand-glass spa is virtually a city in itself. the treatment suites have terraces and pools, and the beauty salon is a temple of white marble. opt for a traditional hammam using the sumptuous marocmaroc skin-care line. Rue Abou Abbas al Sebti; royalmansour. com; treatments from MAD990.

The only way to navigate the medina is on foot. The lanes get crowded, so pay attention to valuables.

Petits taxis are perfect for short trips. Flagging one on the street is better than negotiating at a hotel queue, where drivers prefer to charge a set fee.

Grands taxis (usually mercedesbenzes) are better for longer journeys—out to the Palmeraie, say—and best booked in advance by your hotel. For half-day or day tours, akaman (akamanservices. com) employs multilingual drivers with a fleet of new vehicles, from minis to range rovers.

Clockwise from left: A red leather satchel from Lalla; La Maison Bahira, at Souk Cherifia; wrap bracelets from Fenyadi.

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Sophisticated authentic fare and easy café lunches—here’s where to go now.

le Jardin the owner of the venerable terrasse des Épices opened this shabby-chic garden café last spring. guests sit at vintage tables and feast on casual staples, from salade niçoise to crisp, tangy briouates (vegetableor meat-stuffed phyllo triangles). 32 Souk El Jeld, Sidi Abdelaziz; lejardin.ma; MAD500.

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Chicken and vegetable couscous, paired with mint tea, at Le Jardin.

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For table linens and sleepwear that merge traditional handiwork with a modern aesthetic, head to 1 Al Kawtar (57 Rue Laksour; alkawtar.org). 2 Fenyadi (219 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem; amirabougies.com) is stocked with tea sets, oil lamps and a divine skin-care collection—all minimalist takes on traditional Moroccan design. Emerging local designers show at 3 33 Rue Majorelle (33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent; 33ruemajorelle.com): expect slinky silk-jersey playsuits and burlap tote bags stamped creatively with Berber motifs. Ignore the frosty reception at 4 Moor/Akbar Delights (7 Rue des Vieux Marrakchis; akbardelights.com); the boutiques—two of the city’s most refined—merged earlier this year, but the slick, organic-fiber clothes are still the same. At 5 L’Ourika Boutique (77 Daffa Warbaa, Souk Semmarine; lourikaboutique.com), the Tazi brothers cut Fassi embroidered djellabas and tunics to measure—and ship them worldwide. You could furnish your entire home at Mustapha Blaoui’s 6 Trésors des nomades (142-144 Bab Doukkala), chockablock with quality textiles, antiques, metalware and ceramics. Swing by the 7 Souk Cherifia (Sidi Abdelaziz, Dar el Bacha entrance), a warren of stylish independent traders, for delicate gold jewelry at Stephanie Jewels (No. 26), leather accessories at Lalla (No. 47), and streamlined hand-embroidered linens at La Maison Bahira (No. 15).

housed in La maison arabe (the hotel owned by Italian nobleman Fabrizio ruspoli), this lovely space serves moroccan dishes—the

pastillas perfectly balance spicy-sweet and savory— plus pan-asian and French classics. 1 Derb Assehbe, Bab Doukkala; lamaisonarabe. com; MAD900.

le loft behind black-varnished shutter doors hides a fashionable newcomer to guéliz. Le Loft serves beloved bistro standards executed to perfection (not to mention a mean mojito). Le tout Marrakech table-hops in the dining room and on the front terrace. 18 Rue de la Liberté, Guéliz; 212-5/24434216; MAD400.

a Palace for everY Palate

Palace restaurants are all about candlelight and heaping platters of food. Dar Marjana (15 Derb Sidi Tair; darmarjanamarrakech.com; MAD1,300) and Dar Yacout (79 Derb Sidi Ahmed Soussi; yacout.ma; MAD1,400) are in the top echelon, as is Le Tobsil (22 Derb Abdella Ben Hessaein; MAD1,200). Chef moha Fedal updates the experience with lighter fare at Dar Moha (81 Rue Dar el-Bacha; darmoha.ma; MAD1,060).

Restaurant prices are for dinner for two.

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From left: Beldi Country Club; handmade shoes and accessories at Topolina; Le Kechmara during lunch hour.

Local Take Three Marrakesh insiders open their style files.

marYam montaGue

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redHa moali

Human rights advocate, blogger, owner of Peacock Pavilions hotel

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Founder, Dar al-Ma’mun, and owner, Fellah Hotel

My work takes me all over the Middle East and Africa, but Marrakesh is my home. I bring visitors to Fadila el Gadi (fadila elgadi.com; by appointment only), which makes one-of-a-kind women’s and men’s clothing. Beldi Country Club (beldicountryclub. com; lunch for two MAD700) is great for a casual poolside lunch. Pepe nero (pepenero-marrakech.com; dinner for two MAD950) opened last year in an old riad in the medina— the chef, Khalid Robazza Essafa, trained at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy.

Before You Go

Stories and sounds to get you in the mood.

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Owner, Ministero del Gusto gallery

My partner, Alessandra Lippini, and I opened our gallery in Mouassine in 1998; we restore vintage furniture and host art installations. Back then, the expat community was small. Galerie 127 (galerienathalielocatelli.com), in Guéliz, is owned by a Frenchwoman; she represents international and Moroccan photographers. Another one to watch is Topolina (134 Dar El Bacha; 212-6/5134-5795). Designer Isabelle Lallemang buys djellabas and rugs and “upcycles” them with silk, lace or tassels to make wraps, shoes and bags.

HideouS KinKy esther Freud’s novel, inspired by her itinerant 1970’s childhood, is brought to life in the film starring Kate Winslet and Franco-moroccan superstar said taghmaoui.

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I run an international center that promotes the cultural scene; we have lectures and performances throughout the year. A wonderful place for tea close to Djemaa el-Fna is Terrasse des Épices (terrasse desepices.com; lunch for two MAD300). The Bahia Palace is a real treasure that showcases Marrakshi-Andalusian architecture. In Guéliz, I go to Le Kechmara (kechmara.com; lunch for two MAD280), owned by two Frenchmen, who often organize concerts. Locals gather there for lunch or cocktails.

caraVane british music producer nick Wilde compiles the country’s best musicians and lays them down in all their traditional (and modern-remix) glory.

THe VoiceS of MarraKeSH nobel winner elias Canetti’s 1968 book encompasses the mayhem of the medina, the storytellers of djemaa el-Fna and the rituals of the city’s many cultures.

Stay The five-star arrivals, the perennials and our picks of the chicest (and best-value) riads.

four seasons resort

those who claim it lacks authenticity miss the point: this clean-lined resort offers discrete adults’ and kids’ pools; a boutique curated by top local stylist Laetitia trouillet and flawless service. Hivernage; fourseasons.com; MAD4,840.

la mamounia

the grande dame’s Jacques garcia– designed renovation ushered in ornate, haute marocain décor—plus three private riads, a subterranean spa and a buzzy restaurant.

Medina; mamounia.com; MAD5,100.

Palais namaskar

Whimsical best describes this fantasyland, where Indian and moorish architecture collide and enormous suites and villas have contemporary Italian furnishings. Palmeraie; palaisnamaskar.com; MAD4,950.

riad abracadabra

don’t be deterred by the name; inside, you’ll find an inviting lounge, rooms lined with novels and vintage design magazines, and a charming roof terrace. Medina; riad abracadabra.com; MAD1,540.

riad JoYa

a stone’s throw from the city’s main square, djemaa el-Fna, Joya’s seven-room house is all about sleek neutrals (no gold-leather poufs here) and a supremely capable staff. Mouassine; riadjoya.com; MAD2,500.

two-story dimensions belie generous rooms in rich purple and yellow silk velvets. the owner’s arabian stallions graze in immaculate paddocks next to the open-air Le Pavillon restaurant.

Agdal; selman-marrakech. com; MAD4,000.

riad vanessa

taJ Palace

this intimate gem has four en suite bedrooms and a courtyard strewn with deep sofas and kilims. there’s also a sitting room with a fireplace. Medina; riadelfenn.com; MAD2,970.

tHe selman

another Jacques garcia chef d’oeuvre, the selman’s modest

From the mammoth scale to the extravagant interiors, the taj seems destined to divide opinion. rooms have rosy tadelakt walls hung with beveled Indian mirrors and balconies overlooking an immense pool. Palmeraie; tajhotels. com; opens in December.

Hotel prices are for double occupancy.

A reflecting pool at Palais namaskar.

Last Look

Pondicherry, India

Photographed by Sebastian Cortes

A fusion menu with organic vegetables smoked chicken combined with French mustard, cream and local herbs and seasonings, served at dune’s F.u.n (Food u need) restaurant.

Traditional stays dune eco Village & spa is home to traditional Kerala Planter houses with private pools on a coconut plantation (thedunehotel.com; doubles from Rs5,500).

Healthy renditions of classics Chicken biryani made with dune’s own organic millet along with local ingredients such as beet root to bring out the flavors of the spices.

Ageless designs one of the resort’s 20 rooms is surrounded by south Indian temple columns that date to the 15th century, though the furnishings are more modern.

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