Summer 2019 | Traveler of Charleston Mag by Traveler Communications Group

Charleston Area Beach Guide

Cool Things to Do in Charleston

Our Picks for Summer Reads july – september 2019 ®

TRAVELER of Charleston

The Source For All Things Charleston

travelerofcharleston.com COMPLIMENTARY MOBILE APP Exploring Charleston, SC #1 Ranked App for Charleston, SC

Contents

DEPARTMENTS 12 18 44 47 48 64 69

Welcome to Charleston See + Do Shop + Savor Shopping Guide Eat + Drink Maps Directory of Advertisers

FEATURES 14

Charleston Area Beach Guide

Cool Things to Do in Charleston

Southern Snacking: Boiled Peanuts

Best Summer Beach Reads

New Tour Explores Historic Cemetery

4 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com july-september 2019

Be sure to download our free mobile app, “Exploring Charleston SC.”

From the Publisher t is summertime and the livin’ is easy breezy in Charleston! From the beaches to the breweries, there are plenty of ways to create a relaxing and memorable vacation here. Charleston is home to some beautiful beaches, and you can read about each one starting on Page 14. Pack your toys for the family-friendly Isle of Palms or try your hand at surfing on Folly – each beach has its own vibe. When the temperature heats up, you’ll want to check out Page 30 for a list of cool things to do in Charleston (grab that swimsuit and sunscreen!). If you’ve been dreaming of lying on the beach with a good book, we can help. Flip to Page 42 for our recommendations on great beach reads – all written by Southern authors. For history with a side of spooky, book a tour of Magnolia Cemetery. Previously closed to the public, Bulldog Tours is now offering guided tours of this hidden gem. If you need more information, download our free mobile app with maps, parking locations, public restroom listings and coupons, plus details on attractions and tours. Search “Exploring Charleston SC” in the App Store or Google Play. To save money, time and hassle while you’re visiting, purchase a Charleston Tour Pass for access to some of the area’s best tours and attractions at a discounted price. Buy online at TourPass.com Don’t forget to connect with us on social media – we love seeing how you’re enjoying Charleston! Be sure to use hashtag #CharlestonTraveler.

Traveler of Charleston Team

TRAVELER

Publisher/Founder.................... Keith Simmons Editor........................................... Holly Fisher Writers......................................... Mary Hirsch Graphic Designer...................... Heineman Design Circulation................................. Brian Bean Cheral McCombs Cover Illustration .................... Paula Nelson

of Charleston

Member of: Charleston Convention & Visitors Bureau; Charleston Restaurant Association; Summerville/Dorchester Chamber of Commerce.

KEITH SIMMONS has an extensive publishing, marketing and advertising background and founded Traveler Magazine in 2005. His purpose was to develop an affordable and effective visitor medium where businesses could advertise their service. Traveler is now one of the leading visitor resources in the city. Keith lives in Mount Pleasant with his wife and three children. He enjoys fishing, kayaking and spending time with his family. HOLLY FISHER is a long-time writer and editor with a love of telling stories. She has lived in Charleston more than 15 years and enjoys sharing the tales of the Holy City with visitors and newcomers to the area. Holly lives in the Mount Pleasant area with her husband, daughter and two dogs. When she isn’t at her computer writing for work and for fun, you can find her reading or doing CrossFit. SALLY HEINEMAN honed her knack for graphic design at the University of the Arts in Philadelphia, PA where she received a BFA in Graphic Design. Drawn to the South and the love of everything Lowcountry, Sally opened the doors of her graphic design business, Heineman Design, in 1992.

info@TRAVELERofCharleston.com | 843-410-2577 | TRAVELERofCharleston.com TRAVELER of Charleston is produced by the Traveler Communications Group, LLC, and is published four times yearly and distributed to various locations throughout the Charleston area, including all visitors centers, hotels, airports, beach rentals, grocery stores, high-traffic areas, advertiser locations and many other points throughout the surrounding area. Concept, design and contents of TRAVELER of Charleston are copyrighted and may not be reproduced. www.travelerofcharleston.com.

The copy and advertising deadline for the next issue is September 1, 2019. 6 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com july-september 2019

to CHARLESTON

HIS AMAZING PLACE ONLY GETS BETTER WITH TIME. Each year more people ﬂock to this historic port city to explore the history, culture and architecture and bask in Southern goodness. In recent years, Charleston has become a destination for shopping and its incredible culinary scene is attracting global attention.

From arts and theater to ﬁne dining and watersports, this is one city that truly offers something for everyone. But the Holy City has a storied past. An early English settlement, Charleston has survived wars, ﬁres, earthquakes and hurricanes to rise up as one of the country’s top travel destinations. As you’re visiting our beloved city, get acquainted with her history, celebrate her charms and delight in all the amazing beauty Charleston has to offer.

1718

1670 English colonists settle Charles Town on the Ashley River

Blackbeard the Pirate sails into Charles Town Harbor with four ships; takes hostages for ransom

1740 Charles Town becomes most critical port in North America for exporting rice

1783 City renamed “Charleston”

1718 1680

Pirate Stede Bonnet is hanged at White Point

Charles Town relocates to the peninsula; population 1,000

1736 Dock Street Theatre opens, ﬁrst building in colonial America used exclusively for theatrical performances

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1770

1775-1783

College of Charleston founded

Revolutionary War; Siege of Charleston in 1780

1824

1920

Charleston Museum opens to the public (founded in 1773)

Preservation Society founded to protect historic resources

1828-29 Young Army recruit named Edgar Allan Poe is stationed at Fort Moultrie on Sullivan’s Island

1864

2016

H.L. Hunley sinks U.S.S. Housatonic in Charleston harbor

1989 Hurricane Hugo hits the city and surrounding areas with 135 mph winds

In January Joseph P. Riley Jr. retires after 40 years as Charleston mayor

2006 Charleston Wine + Food Festival founded

1886 1861 1791 President George Washington visits, lodging at what is now the HeywardWashington House and attending a reception at the Old Exchange and a social at McCrady’s Longroom

Confederate troops ﬁre the ﬁrst shots of the Civil War upon Fort Sumter

Major earthquake hits Charleston, damaging 2,000 buildings, killing 110 people

2005 Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge over the Cooper River opens

1977 Spoleto Festival USA begins

july-september 2019 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 13

A Day at the Beach Your guide to Charleston’s beaches by Holly Fisher

It’s summer and the living is easy, especially when you’re relaxing at one of the Charleston area’s beautiful beaches. Soak up the laid-back vibe of Folly Beach, the family friendly feel of Isle of Palms or the unspoiled ocean views at Sullivan’s Island. Each beach has its own character and appeal along with a selection of amenities and restaurants. To help you spend the best day playing in the sand and surf, we’ve compiled a comprehensive guide to a perfect beach day. This is everything you need to know from convenient places to parks, where to grab lunch or drinks and even the ideal spot for a selﬁe with an ocean backdrop.

FOLLY BEACH This barrier island beach has a laid-back atmosphere and is often frequented by locals and surfers. With plenty of restaurants, surf shops, hotels and beach rentals, Folly Beach is a great place to spend some time. Plus, Folly is a short drive from the heart of downtown Charleston with all its attractions and activities. Note, summertime traffic can be extra heavy. If you’re not staying on the beach, plan to arrive by 10 a.m. Where to park: Limited parking is available at Folly Beach County Park (1100 W. Ashley Ave.), so plan to arrive early to secure a spot. Parking fees vary by season. The most you'll pay is $10 per vehicle Monday to Friday and $15 on Saturday and Sunday. You can easily access the beach via the park, where you'll be close to restrooms, outdoor showers, a snack bar and lifeguards. Lunch break: Lost Dog Café, open daily at 106 W. Huron Ave. Order up Southern style BLT with fried green tomatoes, bacon and pimento cheese. Or start your day with coffee and pancakes topped with fresh strawberries and bananas. 14 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com july-september 2019

Souvenir shopping: Open since 1951 at 20 Center St., Mr. John’s Beach Store is the perfect place to pick up a fun Folly souvenir or a new pair of shades. Beach beers: BLU Restaurant and Bar, 1 Center St. inside The Tides Hotel. Take in the ocean views while enjoying a cocktail or beer. Or try Pier 101 Restaurant & Bar, 101 E Arctic Ave., for oceanfront dining. Dinner by the ocean: Rita’s Seaside Grille, open daily at 2 Center St. Dine on fish and shrimp tacos or a crab cake sandwich while enjoying live music in a casual atmosphere. Best selfie spot: Walk out to the northeast end of the island to see the Morris Island Lighthouse, located about 300 yards off shore. Rules to know: Alcohol is not allowed on Folly Beach. Dogs are not allowed on the beach from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. through Sept. 30. At other times, dogs much be leashed; pick up after your pet. Surfing without a leash is prohibited. Between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. May 15 to Sept. 15, surfing is not allowed from 2nd Street East to 3rd Street West (known as the swimming zone).

More info and complete beach rules: cityoffollybeach.com Folly Beach fun fact: One of Folly’s famous visitors was composer and pianist George Gershwin. While staying at Folly, he composed the classic opera “Porgy and Bess.”

parking only." Paid parking is available in the Municipal Parking Lots on Pavilion Drive, at Isle of Palms County Park and on Ocean Boulevard between 10th and 14th avenues. For access to picnic tables, showers, restrooms, seasonal lifeguards and a playground, you might want to park at the Isle of Palms County Park. Parking fees vary by season. The most you'll pay is $10 per vehicle Monday to Friday and $15 on Saturday and Sunday. Where to clean up: Public restrooms and outdoor showers for rinsing the sand from your feet are located right next to Coconut Joe’s. Be sure to stop and admire the sea turtle mural painted on the side of the building. It was created by artist Gretta Kruesi, who also happens to be the daughter of local best-selling author Mary Alice Monroe. Lunch break: Coconut Joe’s, 1120 Ocean Blvd., is a festive, laidback spot great for families or groups of friends. Order up tacos, sandwiches or a fried platter of coconut shrimp and a cold glass of iced tea to top off a morning on the beach. If you don’t want to leave your spot on the beach, pick up hot dogs or burgers at the neighboring Island Joe’s (also a great spot for afternoon ice cream cones) and picnic on the sand. Souvenir shopping: Stroll Ocean Boulevard for a selection of gift shops where you can buy an IOP T-shirt or buckets and shovels for building an epic sand castle. Beach beers: Cold brews, ocean views and live music from a variety of bands make The Windjammer IOP’s best party spot.

ISLE OF PALMS Located just a few minutes from Mount Pleasant, the Isle of Palms has plenty of amenities and is a great family-friendly beach option. This stretch of public beach has a selection of shops, restaurants and bars plus public restrooms. The area of Ocean Boulevard from 10th Avenue to 14th Avenue is set aside for beachgoers and is known as “Front Beach.” If you’re not staying on Isle of Palms, plan to arrive early. The Isle of Palms Connector backs up quickly with beach traffic. Where to park: Parking is regulated along the public rights-of-way from May 15 through Sept. 15 between 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. In the on-street Beach Parking Zones, parking is free of charge. Adjacent residential areas would become "resident july-september 2019 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com

Mural by Gretta Kruesi / photo by Holly Fisher

Dinner by the ocean: Seafood sourced from the East Coast is tough to beat at Acme Lowcountry Kitchen, which combines upscale, yet casual elements of traditional coastal cuisine with classic fare. Located at 31 J.C. Long Blvd. Best selfie spot: Head to the top deck of The Windjammer to snap a photo with the vast ocean behind you. Rules to know: Alcohol is not allowed on the beach. Dogs are allowed off leash on the beach from 5-9 a.m. April 1 to Sept. 14 and from 4 p.m. to 10 a.m. Sept. 15 to March 31. At all other times, dogs must be on a leash – even in the water. More info and complete beach rules: iop.net IOP fun fact: Loggerhead sea turtles often lay their eggs at the Isle of Palms from May to mid-August. From July until October, the loggerhead hatchlings emerge from their nest at night and make their way to the ocean. Do not disturb any nests or any hatchlings and be sure to fill any holes you dig on the beach. If you’re staying on the beach, be sure to turn out your lights at night.

SULLIVAN’S ISLAND The Town of Sullivan’s Island, a barrier island north of the Charleston harbor, has only about 2,000 residents. With its unspoiled views and terrific dining options, Sullivan’s is a favorite among Charleston area locals. The beach has few short-term rentals and no hotels so plan a day trip to this beach, also located just a few minutes from the Isle of Palms. Where to park: Parking can be a problem if you arrive after 10 a.m. There are no public parking lots, and street parking is allowed only on one side of the street. Be sure to obey posted signs and don’t park in any private yards or driveways. 14 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com july-september 2019

Lunch break: Poe’s Tavern, 2210 Middle St., is named for Edgar Allan Poe, who, at the age of 18, enlisted in the Army and was stationed at Fort Moultrie. A favorite among locals and visitors, Poe’s menu is filled with gourmet burgers (try the Black Cat with grilled onions, chili, bacon and pimento cheese) and fish tacos (order the citrus-marinated mahi-mahi). Souvenir shopping: Take home a true beach treasure from Sandpiper Gallery, 2201 Middle St., including works of fine art, pottery, jewelry and sculpture – many of which are made by South Carolina artists. Beach beers: Dunleavy’s Pub, 2213 Middle St., is a family-owned Irish pub with a long history on Sullivan’s Island. Unwind with a cold beer after a long, hot day on the beach. Dinner by the ocean: The Obstinate Daughter, 2063 Middle St., is a southern restaurant with Spanish, Italian and French influences. The menu is packed with small plates, pasta and gourmet pizzas. For dessert, head downstairs to The Beardcat’s Sweet Shop for gelato, pastries, cookies or coffee. Best selfie spot: Built in 1962, the modern-looking Sullivan’s Island Lighthouse sits just off the shore adjacent to Fort Moultrie. Access is via Station 18 1/2. Rules to know: Sullivan’s Island has no public restrooms or showers and there are no lifeguards on duty. Alcohol is not permitted on the beach. All dogs visiting the island must have a dog permit and should

Photo: Holly Fisher

Be on Your Best Beach Behavior

wear the town-issued collar while on Sullivan’s Island. Permits and collars are available at Town Hall, 2050-B Middle St.; 843-8833198. Dogs are not allowed on the beach from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. through Sept. 30. More info and complete beach rules: sullivansisland-sc.com Sullivan’s Island fun fact: This Island has a long military history of protecting the Charleston harbor from invaders. Visit Fort Moultrie – originally built with palmetto logs in 1776 – to how it has been restored to reflect the story of American seacoast defense up through World War II.

KIAWAH ISLAND Another of Charleston’s beautiful beaches is Kiawah Island. Much of the island and its beaches are private, but you can access a portion of public beachfront via Kiawah Beachwalker Park on the west end of the island. It has restrooms, picnic areas with grills and boardwalks. Parking fees vary by season. The most you'll pay is $10 per vehicle Monday to Friday and $15 on Saturday and Sunday. Lifeguards are on duty seasonally, and, at the park, dogs must be leashed at all times. Also on Kiawah Island is Freshfields Village, a blend of shopping and dining options in a lovely outdoor setting. This town center also hosts a number of special events during the summer, including live music and a farmers market; see the full calendar of events at freshfieldsvillage.com.

Everyone loves playing on the beach, but it’s important to remember the ocean and beaches are home to countless sea creatures, shorebirds and nesting animals. While you’re visiting one of Charleston’s beaches, be sure you’re taking extra care to protect this precious habitat. SEA TURTLE NESTS: During the late spring and early summer, mama sea turtles lumber onto the shores of Charleston at night to lay their eggs – often more than 100 in a single nest. The tiny hatchlings emerge between July and October. Never disturb a nest of eggs or a nesting mother turtle. Volunteers patrol local beaches in the mornings looking for the tell-tale tracks that indicate a mother turtle came ashore during the night. They may relocate the nest if it is in a location threatened by people or tides. Usually the nests are marked so beachgoers know to avoid that area. Have fun building your sandcastle moat, but when it’s time to leave, be sure to fill any holes. You don’t want to create obstacles for nesting turtles or hatchlings. Also, if you’re renting a house on the beach, turn off lights visible from the beach by 10 p.m. through October. You don’t want the turtles to be confused by man-made lights when they really are seeking out the light of the moon. CLEAN UP YOUR TRASH: The public beaches have plenty of trash cans or pack an extra garbage bag so you can take your trash home with you. Trash washes into the ocean and plastics, in particular, look like food to sea turtles. LOOK BUT DON’T TOUCH: Don’t disturb any wildlife, such as shorebirds, nests, crabs, jellyfish or other creatures you might find on the beach. NO CLIMBING: Do not climb on sand dunes at local beaches. july-september 2019 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 17

See + Do Charleston is known for her rich history, picturesque scenery and culinary excellence. Many experienced touring companies are ready to show you a great time.

How to use this magazine: You’ll find each type of tour and attraction categorized for easy reference. Many listings include a map grid locator. Find the grid location, then reference the maps on pages 64 through 68.

WHETHER YOU’RE A HISTORY BUFF, WATER ENTHUSIAST OR SIMPLY ENJOY STROLLING THE COBBLESTONE STREETS OF CHARLESTON YOU’LL FIND PLENTY OF WAYS TO EXPLORE THE HOLY CITY. See a plantation home, tour the harbor, take a carriage ride or visit a museum.

SEE + DO

ART & THEATER ACTIVITIES The Sound of Charleston Show location: Circular Congregational Church: 150 Meeting St. • Charleston • (G:8) • 843-2704903 • soundofcharleston.com • A recent review by Frommers Travel Guide sums the show up perfectly: “The best night out in the city is this must-see performance of gospel, Gershwin, music of the Civil War, light classics and jazz - all the elements of Charleston's rich musical stew”.

BOAT & WATER Barrier Island Eco-Tours Admire the majestic Angel Oak tree, part of a public city park. Its canopy of branches spans 17,000 square feet and the tree stretches to 65 feet tall.

TRAVELER Tidbit “Walking the streets of Charleston in the late afternoons of August was like walking through gauze or inhaling damaged silk." – the late Pat Conroy in his book "The Lords of Discipline"

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50 41st Ave. • Isle of Palms Marina • (Map: N:6) 843-886-5000 • nature-tours.com • Naturalist guided boat excursions to Capers Island Preserve. Travel the salt marsh creeks, see dolphins and wildlife up close, explore the “boneyard beach” and walk inland trails. Morning and sunset eco-tours, creek fishing, crabbing, kayaking or beach-side cookouts.

SEE + DO

BOAT & WATER Charleston Harbor Tours Charleston Maritime Center. • 10 Wharfside St., Charleston • (Map: J:5/6) • 843-722-1112 charlestonharbortours.com • Board the Carolina Belle for Charleston’s top-rated harbor tour. This 90-minute tour is live narrated by the Captain and covers over 75 points of interest and 300 years of history. See Fort Sumter, Fort Johnson, Fort Moultrie, Castle Pinckney, The Battery, The Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, dolphins, pelicans and much more! Offering great combination packages with other popular attractions saving you time and money! Fully stocked bar and snack bar with items for purchase on board. Call or go online for schedule and tickets or see our ad on page 2.

Charleston Speedboat Adventures 56 Ashley Point Drive • (Map A:5) 843-800-6003 speedboatadventures.com/charleston Experience the adventure of a lifetime on a speed boat adventure tour! Enjoy a guided, narrated Charleston Harbor tour with a twist. See all the famous landmarks, no boating experience necessary. Reservations required.

Charleston Water Taxi Downtown: Maritime Center • 10 Wharfside St. (Map: K:5/6) • Mount Pleasant: Charleston Harbor Marina at Patriots Point • (Map: O:2) Waterfront Park Pier • (Map J:8) • 843-330-2989 charlestonwatertaxi.com • The water taxi runs on a continuous loop around Charleston Harbor between Patriots Point (USS Yorktown) and downtown Charleston with pick-up/ drop-off points at the Maritime Center and Waterfront Park.

Isle of Palms Marina 50 41st Ave • Isle of Palms • (Map: O:6) 843-886-0209 • iopmarina.net • Your one stop shop for all your island needs. Book a boat tour, fishing charter, harbor or dolphin cruise or go jetskiing, rent a boat or stop into our ship store for all your grocery and beer needs.

Nature Adventures 1 Shrimpboat Ln. • Mount Pleasant (Map O:2) • 843-568-3222 kayakcharlestonsc.com Our focus is on creating experiences! Take a guided kayak or stand-up paddleboard tour or they can be rented. Located on picturesque Shem Creek where dolphins and wildlife are all around to experience up-close.

Sandlapper Water Tours Tour depart from the Maritime Center (by S.C. Aquarium) • 10 Wharfside St. • Charleston (Map K:4) • 843-849-8687 • sandlappertours.com Relax and have fun on the water with one of their nature tours, history tours, sunset cruises or on the "Haunted Harbor Ghost & Pirate Tour". Mention "Traveler" for $3 off adult and $2 off child tickets. 22 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com july-september 2019

BOAT & WATER

Schooner Pride – Charleston’s Tall Ship

SpiritLine Charleston Harbor Tour

360 Concord St. • Charleston • (Map: J:5) 843-722-1112 • schoonerpride.com • Board this beautiful, 49 passenger sailing vessel for a unique and breathtaking excursion on Charleston Harbor. Each 2 hour sail is unique as the Pride sails with the wind and tides, but you are sure to have an experience you won’t forget. Rated as one of the top 10 things to do in Charleston and one of the top Sunset Sails in North America, the Pride is a great way to get out on the water! Beer, wine, champagne, sodas and water available for purchase on board. RESERVATIONS REQUIRED, go online or call for tickets.

843-722-BOAT(2628) • spiritlinecruises.com Enjoy a 90-minute tour of Charleston’s harbor with 75+ points of interest narrated by City of Charleston licensed tour guides. Discounted Land & Sea Combo Tours available: include either a 90-minute Gray Line City Tour or a 60minute Old South Carriage Tour. Tours depart Aquarium Wharf in downtown Charleston and Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant

Tidalwave Watersports 69 41st Ave • Isle of Palms (Map: N:6) tidalwavewatersports.com • 843-886-8456 Tidalwave offers the ultimate in parasailing, waverunner, wakeboarding, waterskiing, and boat riding in the Charleston area.

TRAVELER Tidbit Experience small town Southern charm in downtown Summerville. Be sure to visit the recently renovated Hutchinson Square in the heart of town. It is surrounded by boutiques, restaurants, art galleries and antique stores. Go window shopping before stopping in Guerin’s Pharmacy – the oldest pharmacy in South Carolina – for an old-fashioned ice cream ﬂoat.

july-september 2019 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 23

SEE + DO

BOAT & WATER

SEE + DO

CARRIAGE TOURS

COMBO TOURS

Palmetto Carriage Works

Charleston Harbor Tours & Bulldog Tours Ghost or Walking Tour Combo

8 Guignard St. • (Map: H:7) • 843-723-8145 palmettocarriage.com • Departs from The Big Red Barn every 15 to 20 minutes, rain or shine, beginning at 9 a.m. Tours are one hour long, covering about 25 blocks of residential and historic districts. Guides are city licensed. See our ad on the inside front cover.

COMBO TOURS Charleston Harbor Tours & Boone Hall Plantation Combo 10 Wharfside St. • (Map J:5/6) • Boone Hall 1235 Longpoint Rd. • (Map: L:4) charlestonharbortours.com • Save time and money by booking this top rated combo tour! Enjoy a 90 minute, live narrated Charleston Harbor Tour and admission to Boone Hall Plantation, Charleston’s most photographed and the top plantation to visit according to USA Today 10Best! May be taken on separate days.

TRAVELER Tidbit The Shag has been the official state dance since 1984. It's thought to have started in the 1920s in Myrtle Beach.

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Harbor Tours • 10 Wharfside St. • (Map J:5/6). Bulldog Tours • 18 Anson St. • (Map H:7) charlestonharbortours.com• Enjoy the top rated, live narrated harbor history tour with Charleston Harbor Tours and choose from one of 3 great walking tours with Charleston’s best walking tour company! Choose from the Ghost & Graveyard Walking Tour, Haunted Jail Tour or Charleston Strolls History Tour.

Charleston Harbor Tours & Palmetto Carriage Combo Charleston Harbor Tours • Charleston Maritime Center, 10 Wharfside Street • (Map :J:5/6) Palmetto Carriage Works • Big Red Barn, 8 Guignard Street • 843-722-1112 • (Map: H:7) CharlestonHarborTours.com PalmettoCarriage.com • Join two of Charleston’s most reputable tour companies for the most popular combination tour. This is a great way to save time and money and get a great overview of the Holy City. Book tickets in advance and you can save $6 on adult tickets! You can even split the tours up over different days! Book online or call for tickets.

COMBO TOURS

Charleston Waterfront Pass

Tour Pass Charleston & Savannah

charlestonwaterfrontpass.com • Includes admission for three attractions: Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum along with the South Carolina Aquarium and includes transportation via Charleston Water Taxi.

tourpass.com • Admission included for over 40 of Charleston's top tours, attractions and historic sites. Choose a 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 day pass and instantly receive the Mobile Pass to begin attractions. Purchased online only. Smartphone required.

Gray Line & Fort Sumter Tour Combo 843-722-BOAT(2628) • fortsumtertours.com, graylineofcharleston.com • Save $4 per person! Enjoy a comprehensive tour of Charleston’s historic district and take the only boat tour to Fort Sumter. Licensed and experienced tour guides lead a 90-minute exploration of Charleston’s rich history on air-conditioned mini-buses. The Gray Line tour features 100+ points of interest with a stop at the Battery. Tours depart every 30 minutes from the Charleston Visitor’s Center, 375 Meeting St. Free hotel pickup in historic district.

FISHING CHARTERS Reel Deal Charters Multiple area departure locations - some tours depart from Shem Creek, Mount Pleasant 843-388-5093 • thereeldealcharters.com Join The Reel Deal Charters for year-round inshore/offshore, deep-sea, big game and saltwater fishing. Includes licenses, bait and tackle. Operating several boats with the lowest prices for a “reel” fishing experience!

TRAVELER Tidbit Shop the Charleston Farmers Market from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays in Marion Square, 329 Meeting St. in downtown Charleston.

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SEE + DO

COMBO TOURS

SEE + DO

MOTORIZED LAND TOURS Adventure Sightseeing AdventureSightseeing.com • 843-762-0088 “See it All” with Charleston’s top-rated bus tour company. With over 30 years of experience offering guided tours of Charleston, Adventure Sightseeing is a must do when visiting. 90minute city tours and plantation tours. The most available combination tours offer great savings on the most popular tours and activities. Departing from the Charleston Visitor’s Center. Free downtown hotel pick up available too!

Gray Line of Charleston

Head out to Folly Beach to admire the Morris Island Lighthouse, built in 1876. Situated about 300 yards off the shore, the lighthouse is visible from the northeast end of the island. Visit savethelight.org to read more about the lighthouse's history and preservation efforts.

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graylineofcharleston.com • 843-722-4444 Explore 300 years of history with experienced, licensed tour guides onboard our mini-buses. Gray Line offers a comprehensive tour of Charleston’s Historic District with 100+ points of interest and a stop at Charleston’s Battery. Take our 90 minute tour or add a visit to a fully restored antebellum home. Land & Sea Combo includes either a visit to Fort Sumter or a 90-minute tour of the harbor. Tours depart every 30 minutes from the Charleston Visitor’s Center, 375 Meeting St. Free hotel pickup in historic district.

SEE + DO

MUSEUMS AND PARKS

Audubon Center at Beidler Forest

Edmondston-Alston House

336 Sanctuary Rd. • 336 Sanctuary Rd. 843-462-2150 • beidlerforest.com • Francis Beidler Forest contains the largest stand of virgin bald cypress and tupelo gum swamp forest left in the world. See 1,000-year-old trees and native wildlife; walk the 1.75-mile boardwalk into the swamp. Tues.-Sun. 9 a.m-5 p.m. Harleyville, S.C.

21 East Battery • Charleston • 843-722-7171 edmondstonalston.com • Circa 1828; a gracious example of early 19th-century elegance, style and comfort. The only historic house downtown with a view of Charleston Harbor. Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Sunday & Monday 1-4:30 p.m. Tickets: $12/adult, $11/military, $8/student, 5 & under free. Combo tickets available with Middleton Place plantation.

Charleston Zip Line Adventures 1152 Guerins Bridge Rd. • Awendaw • (Map K:6) 843-928-3947 charlestonziplineadventures.com The only zip line canopy tour in the Charleston area! Canopy Tour: Fly through the trees on this guided tour. Kids Zip Line Tour: For beginners or ages 5-13. Climbing Wall: 60’ climbing wall with three difficulty levels. Reservations recommended. Enter or mention code TRVCHS10 for $5 off!

TRAVELER Tidbit The Circular Congregational Church cemetery is likely the oldest English burial ground still in existence in Charleston. The earliest unmarked grave dates from 1695.

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Hampton Park is one of the city’s largest parks. It is home to an old rose collection and extensive ﬂoral displays. Go for a run, walk your dog or relax in the Rose Pavilion near the lagoon.

COOL THINGS TO DO IN CHARLESTON By Holly Fisher

Cocktails with a view: Enjoy an evening breeze and a sunset view at one of Charleston’s rooftop bars. Some cool spots include the Rooftop Cocktail Bar at the Vendue Inn near the picturesque Riley Waterfront Park; Pour Taproom at 560 King St. serving beer and wine samples; and The Watch: Rooftop Kitchen and Spirits serving great food and great views atop the Restoration Hotel. Share a pint: The Charleston area is home to almost 30 local breweries. Whether you like IPA, reds, stouts, ciders or porters, there’s something for every beer lover. If you’re visiting downtown Charleston, check out what’s known as the Charleston Brewery District – a short stretch of the northern end of the peninsula where the brews are flowing. Neighboring breweries there include: Palmetto Brewing Co., Revelry Brewing, Edmund's Oast Brewing Co., Fatty's Beerworks, Cooper River Brewing, Munkle Brewing Co., Tradesman Brewing Co. and LO-Fi Brewing. Wind down in nature: No ‘whining’ about the heat here! Deep Water Vineyard grows muscadine grapes, a fruit native to the Southeastern United States, and then turns those grapes into refreshing muscadine wine. Visit Deep Water on Wadmalaw Island for tours and tastings – all in a beautiful Lowcountry setting. Sunsets on Shem Creek: Enjoy a seafood dinner with spectacular views on Shem Creek in Mount Pleasant. Try one of these restaurants: Tavern & Table, Red's Ice House, Vickery's Bar & Grill, Saltwater Cowboys, Water's Edge, R.B.'s Seafood Restaurant. Relax on the water: Spending time in the water is the best way to beat the summer heat. Take a boat tour, go fishing or try your hand at kayaking for a cool summer experience. Barrier Island Eco Tours offers naturalist-guided eco tours to some of the Lowcountry's most pristine spots as well as fishing charters. Book a tour of the Charleston harbor (including specialty tours and dinner cruises) with Charleston Harbor Tours or SpiritLine Cruises. Get a taste of Charleston’s maritime history with a sail aboard The Schooner Pride, an 84-foot tall ship modeled after the 18th-century coastal trading schooners that once sailed the Charleston harbor. How about a sunset cruise with Sandlapper Water Tours to wind out a day of Charleston sightseeing? 30 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com july-september 2019

Photo provided by Charleston County Parks

Wet and wild adventures: Looking for some adventure on the water? Tidal Wave Water Sports on the Isle of Palms has tubing, jet ski and wakeboarding options. Or, go parasailing for a bird's eye view of the Atlantic Ocean. Visit Isle of Palms Marina for boat rentals or book a charter tour to go fishing, watch for dolphins or visit the undisturbed Capers Island. Feeling the need for speed? Book a 13-mile Speed Boat Adventure Tour with Speed Boat Adventures. Or slow down and soak up the scenery on a kayak tour with Nature Adventures on Shem Creek. Rent kayaks or book a guided kayak tour for two or three hours on the water. The Reel Deal Charters offers inshore and offshore fishing charters or take the family on a dolphin watching tour or go hunting for shark teeth. Sightseeing in comfort: Learn about Charleston history and see the city’s best sites – all from the comfort of an air-conditioned bus. Adventure Sightseeing offers a 90-minute "See It All" city tour. Gray Line Tours has a 90-minute historic city tour. Zoom through the treetops: Fly high with Charleston Zipline Adventures, located just north of Mount Pleasant. Start your adventure zipping from a 65-foot tower through the trees on seven zip line cables between tree platforms. Make your way across three swinging bridges before the grand finale zip of 750 feet. A kids’ zip line course is available for ages 513 and zip line beginners. Family fun: The Charleston County Park system operates three water parks in the area. Splash Island in Mount Pleasant has a shallow-water play area just for toddlers and separate areas with a wave pool and slides for older children and pre-teens. Splash Zone at James Island County Park has a Caribbean theme with island-style play structures and slides. Whirlin’ Waters in North Charleston is designed for children of all ages and is the largest of the three water parks. Don’t miss The Washout raft ride: two slides 65 feet in the air offer near-vertical climbs, twists and turns. july-september 2019 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 31

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SEE + DO

MUSEUMS AND PARKS Fort Sumter Tours 843-722-BOAT(2628) • fortsumtertours.com Walk in the footsteps of Civil War soldiers as you visit this National Historic Site. Cost includes tour of Charleston harbor onboard the boat plus an hour to explore the fort. The National Park Service maintains the Civil War era fortifications as well as restrooms, a gift shop and the Fort Sumter Museum. Fort Sumter Tours is an authorized concessionaire of the National Park Service and the only tour that stops at historic Fort Sumter. Tours depart Liberty Square in downtown Charleston (handicapped accessible) and Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant

North Charleston/American LaFrance Fire Museum 4975 Centre Point Dr • North Charleston (Map: KK:5) • 843-740-5550 northcharlestonfiremuseum.org The Fire Museum, located adjacent to Tanger Outlet Center, is home to the largest collection of fully restored American LaFrance fire trucks and antique fire equipment in the country. It is a wonderful museum for the firefighter in all of us. Great demonstration for kids and people of all ages.

Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum 40 Patriots Point Rd. • Mount Pleasant (Map: O:2) • 843-884-2727 • patriotspoint.org Walk in the steps of heroes at Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum, home of the USS Yorktown, and SC’s most unique attraction. With fresh exhibits, educational programming and other one-of-a-kind events, Patriots Point is the only Charleston-area historic attraction that offers exciting new experiences all year long. See ad for $3 off coupon.

PLANTATIONS Boone Hall Plantation 1235 Long Point Road • Mount Pleasant (Map: L:4) • 843-884-4371 boonehallplantation.com • One of America’s oldest plantations with more than 320 years of history. Located 8 miles north of Charleston. The “Avenue of Oaks,” nine original slave cabins, house tours and shows included in admission. Mon.-Sat. 8:30 a.m.-6:30p.m.; Sun. 1-5 p.m.

Middleton Place National Historic Landmark • 4300 Ashley River Road (Highway 61) • Charleston • (area map) 843-556-6020 • middletonplace.org • An 18th-century rice plantation and National Historic Landmark comprising 65 acres of America’s oldest landscaped gardens. See the house museum, craftspeople in the stable yards or take an African-American focus tour. Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

TRAVELER Tidbit In October 2018, Conde Nast Traveler magazine named Charleston the No. 1 Small City in the United States. This was the eighth consecutive year Charleston was awarded the most popular U.S. city designation in the magazine’s Readers’ Choice Awards.

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SEE + DO

WALKING TOURS

Bulldog Tours

The Spirits of Magnolia Cemetery Tour

18 Anson St. • Charleston • (Map: H:7) 843-722-TOUR • bulldogtours.com As seen on the Travel Channel’s “America’s Most Haunted Places,” this walking tour company will have you exhilarated and entertained. Choose from four tours: Ghost & Graveyard, The Dark Side of Charleston, Ghost Dungeon and Haunted Jail Tour.

70 Cunnington Ave. Charleston 843-722-TOUR • bulldogtours.com This 90-minute walking tour gives you exclusive access to Charleston’s most hauntingly beautiful Victorian burial grounds…at night! The 90-minute tour promises the best of Magnolia’s history, mystery, and spirits. Reservations Required.

Charleston Strolls Walk With History Mills House Hotel (corner of Meeting & Queen) 18 Anson St. • Charleston • (Map H:7) 843-722-8687 • charlestonstrolls.com charlestonstrolls.com • Featured in The New York Times, this two-hour tour is the best way to see Charleston’s Historic District. Famous landmarks, historic highlights, antebellum mansions, quaint alleys and hidden gardens. Everyday at 10 a.m. Requires reservation.

Haunted Yorktown Tour 40 Patriots Point Rd., Mount Pleasant 843-722-TOUR • bulldogtours.com | ome aboard the USS Yorktown aircraft carrier and hear stories of the American Heroes who lived, died and are still rumored to be there today. Exclusive night time access to area of the ship closed to the public.

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Cypress Gardens reopened this spring after severe ﬂooding damage. Visit this attraction for swamp boat rides and walking trails.

SEE + DO

TASTE OF THE SOUTH: BOILED PEANUTS Want to get a true Southern experience while visiting Charleston? Pick up a bag of boiled peanuts for a quintessential summer snack. Boiled peanuts were most likely brought here by African slaves. During the summer months, the slaves would harvest peanut crops and the surplus peanuts would be boiled – an opportunity for families and neighbors to gather and socialize. Boiled peanuts became mainstream in the South in the early 1900s. Boiled peanuts are made using green peanuts that are recently harvested and haven’t been dried. You can also use raw peanuts, which are uncooked but dried. Soak them in water overnight before boiling. Salt the boiling water and add the peanuts. You can add a little Cajun seasoning for a spicy kick. On May 1, 2006, boiled peanuts became the official snack food of South Carolina. Read more about the history of boiled peanuts at nationalpeanutboard.org.

Where to ﬁnd boiled peanuts: Peanut Dude at peanutdude.com • Timbo’s Peanuts at facebook.com/Timbos-Peanuts310457123524 • Mike’s Peanuts in Summerville at mikespeanuts.net

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Fill your beach bag with these Southern summer reads Compiled by Holly Fisher If your idea of a perfect summer day involves a beach chair, sweet tea and a deliciously good book, you’re in luck. Some of our favorite Southern authors have new books you’ll want to toss in your beach bag because there’s nothing better than losing yourself in a good summertime story.

QUEEN BEE BY DOROTHEA BENTON FRANK

THE SOUTHERN SIDE OF PARADISE BY KRISTY WOODSON HARVEY

Beekeeper Holly McNee Kensen quietly lives in a world of her own on Sullivan's Island, tending her hives and working at the local island library. Holly calls her mother The Queen Bee because she's a demanding hulk of a woman. Her mother, a devoted hypochondriac, might be unaware that she's quite ill but that doesn't stop her from tormenting Holly. To escape the drama, Holly's sister Leslie married and moved away, wanting little to do with island life. Holly's escape is to submerge herself in the lives of the two young boys next door and their widowed father, Archie. Her world is upended when the more flamboyant Leslie returns and both sisters – polar opposites – fixate on what's happening in their neighbor's home. Restless Leslie is desperate for validation after her imploded marriage, and their mother ups her game in an uproarious and theatrical downward spiral. This is Dorothea Benton Frank’s 20th novel. She divides her time between New Jersey and Sullivan’s Island. dotfrank.com

North Carolina author Kristy Woodson Harvey has written the third novel in her Peachtree Bluff series. In “The Southern Side of Paradise,” a secret threatens the tight-knit bond between a trio of sisters and their mother. With the man of her dreams back in her life and all three of her daughters happy, Ansley Murphy should be content. But she can’t help but feel like it’s all a little too good to be true. Meanwhile, youngest daughter and actress Emerson, who is recently engaged and has just landed the role of a lifetime, seemingly has the world by the tail. Only, something she can’t quite put her finger on is worrying her. When two new women arrive in Peachtree Bluff — one who has the potential to wreck Ansley’s happiness and one who could tear Emerson’s world apart — everything is put in perspective. And after secrets that were never meant to be told come to light, the powerful bond between the Murphy sisters and their mother comes crumbling down, testing their devotion to each other and forcing them to evaluate the meaning of family. kristywoodsonharvey.com

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THE SUMMER GUESTS BY MARY ALICE MONROE

THE FAVORITE DAUGHTER BY PATTI CALLAHAN HENRY

Once again best-selling Lowcountry author Mary Alice Monroe has penned a heart-warming story filled with relatable and endearing characters. When a sudden storm threatens the coasts of Florida and South Carolina, an eclectic group of evacuees flee for the farm of their friends Grace and Charles Phillips in North Carolina: the Phillips’s daughter Moira and her rescue dogs, famed equestrian Javier Angel de la Cruz, makeup artist Hannah McLain, horse breeder Gerda Klug and her daughter Elise. They bring with them only the few treasured possessions they can carry. Strangers to all but the Phillips, they must ride out the storm together. Plus, fans of Monroe’s other novels will be delighted to see Cara Rutledge from “The Beach House” series appears in this book. During this challenging time, relationships are put to the test as the evacuees are forced to confront the unresolved issues they have with themselves and with each other. But as the storm passes, they realize that what really matters wasn’t what they brought with them to the mountains: but what they’ll take with them once they leave. maryalicemonroe.com

Ten years ago, Lena Donohue experienced a wedding-day betrayal so painful that she fled the small town of Watersend, S.C., and reinvented herself in New York City. Though now a freelance travel writer, the one place she rarely goes is home — until she learns of her dad’s failing health. Returning to Watersend means seeing the sister she has avoided for a decade and the brother who runs the family’s Irish pub and has borne the burden of his sisters’ rift. While Alzheimer’s slowly steals their father’s memories, the siblings rush to preserve his life in stories and in photographs. As his secret past brings Lena’s own childhood into focus, it sends her on a journey to discover the true meaning of home. Patti Callahan Henry – who divides her time between Alabama and Bluffton, S.C. – is also the author of USA Today bestseller “Becoming Mrs. Lewis.” patticallahanhenry.com

PICK UP YOUR SUMMER READ AT THESE DOWNTOWN CHARLESTON SHOPS Blue Bicycle Books: 420 King St. near Marion Square. Packed with used books, first editions, books by Charleston authors, children’s books and more, this is a must-visit bookstore for any reader. bluebicyclebooks.com Buxton Books: 160 King St. Visit this regionally focused independent bookstore for a great selection of local authors plus signings and events. buxtonbooks.com Preservation Society of Charleston: 147 King St. History buffs will love this bookstore and shop filled with Charleston culture and charm. preservation.myshopify.com

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Shop + Savor Charleston was founded in the late 1600s as a port city, and it has remained a thriving place to buy goods ever since. Buy local and enjoy the rewards.

Shop King Street On the second Sunday of each month, the street is closed so visitors and locals can enjoy shopping, dining and entertainment.

WHETHER YOU’RE SHOPPING FOR SOUVENIRS, A DRESS FOR DINNER OR A BOX OF BENNE WAFERS, YOU’LL FIND JUST WHAT YOU WANT IN THE CITY’S MANY RETAIL OUTLETS. The Charleston peninsula has boutiques, national retailers and a market full of Southern charm.

SHOP + SAVOR

SHOPPING Dacuba’s Fine Jewelry 84 N. Market St. • Charleston • (Map: H:7/8) 843-853-0103 • dacubasjewelry.citymax.com Nestled in the heart of Charleston, Dacuba’s is a unique fine jewelry store with a wonderful selection of sterling silver and 14kt gold jewelry. Its classic Charleston “Southern Gate” collection is fashioned after the wrought-iron work seen throughout this historical city.

Terrace Oaks Antique Mall 2037 Maybank Highway • James Island (area map) • 843-795-9689 • Mon-Sat. 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m. • terraceoaksantiques.com A leader in the Charleston area for multidealer antique shops since 1988. The 10,000-squarefoot, climate-controlled shop houses 90+ booths with all different tastes and styles. When it comes to antiques, they have just about anything your heart desires.

Sweetgrass baskets are found throughout the City Market in downtown Charleston and along U.S. Highway 17 North in Mount Pleasant. The baskets – brought to the area by West African slaves more than 300 years ago – are a piece of treasured art and Lowcountry culture. Pick one up for a souvenir or as a gift.

TRAVELER Tidbit Join the Charleston Gallery Association for a free evening Art Walk on the ﬁrst Friday of each month. Stroll through some 40 galleries admiring paintings, sculpture and photography. Or visit charlestongalleryassociation.com to download a free map of area galleries and plan your own art walk.

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Shop your way around Charleston DOWNTOWN CHARLESTON ■ King Street is a shopper’s paradise lined with national retailers, locally owned boutiques with clothing, housewares and handmade items. If you’re in the market for rare finds, make your way down Lower King Street (south of Market Street), the city’s antique district. ■ On the second Sunday of each month, several blocks of King Street are closed off to vehicles, and people (and pets) flood the streets for open-air dining, music, shopping and entertainment. ■ The City Market stretches from Meeting Street to East Bay Street and is home to more than 300 vendors selling everything from art and jewelry to T-shirts and sweetgrass baskets. ■ Visit the Night Market from 6:3010:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday for live music and local arts and crafts. SUMMERVILLE Take the main Summerville exit off Interstate 26 and follow the signs to the charming historic district and town square. There you’ll find loads of local boutiques and shops, including 12 antique stores, coffee shops and restaurants, a community theater and one of the top quilt shops in the country. From 5:30-8:30 p.m. on the third Thursday of each month, businesses stay open later and the town square is filled with entertainment.

MOUNT PLEASANT ■ Mount Pleasant Towne Centre on Highway 17 North is home to national retailers, local boutiques and restaurants. Shop at Belk and Belk Men’s Store, Copper Penny, Palmetto Moon, Hairy Winston Pet Boutique, Athleta and more. mtpleasanttownecentre.com ■ Belle Hall Shopping Center is located on Long Point Road ( just off Interstate 526). Stop by Wonder Works for a large selection of children's toys or pick up something new to wear at II Brunettes. Shop for accessories, furniture and gifts at Lavender Hill Designs.. The Coastal Cupboard has a selection of specialty food items and cookware. shopbellehall.com NORTH CHARLESTON Tanger Outlets has dozens of nationally known retailers offering apparel for adults and children, shoes, accessories, housewares and jewelry. The area also has several restaurants and is easily accessible from both Interstates 526 and 26. tangeroutlet.com/charleston

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Eat + Drink Charleston’s diverse culinary scene is amazing. Innovative chefs and their dishes will dazzle the taste buds and warm the heart. Charleston has great taste!

From shrimp and grits and crab cakes to local craft beer and spirits, you’ll discover why Charleston food is fabulous.

TRUST US, YOU WON’T LEAVE CHARLESTON HUNGRY. In fact you might spend half your vacation simply deciding which delectable restaurant to try next. Our city has world-class chefs cooking up plates filled with Southern goodness. Our desserts are claiming national recognition.

EAT + DRINK

FINE DINING Cru Cafe´ 18 Pinckney St. • Charleston • (Map: H:7) 843-534-2434 • crucafe.com • In an 18th-century home on Pinckney Street, Charlestonians sip mint julep tea on the porch and dine on upscale comfort food at John Zucker’s Cru Cafe. “Do it right and use the best possible ingredients” is his mantra. Lunch and dinner.

Middleton Place Restaurant 4300 Ashley River Road • Charleston (area map) • 843-556-6020 • middletonplace.org Savor Lowcountry cuisine while taking in views of America’s oldest landscaped gardens. For lunch, visitors enjoy a three-course, prix fixe menu. Lunch served daily. Dinner guests pay no admission after 5 p.m. and can stroll through the gardens prior to dinner service, which begins at 6 p.m.

SpiritLine Dinner Cruise Departs from 40 Patriots Point Road Mount Pleasant • (Map: O:2) • 843-722-2628 spiritlinecruises.com • The SpiritLine Dinner Cruise aboard the Spirit of Carolina features fine cuisine prepared to order onboard, entertainment, dancing, fully stocked bar and a magnificent cruise on Charleston Harbor. Call for reservations.

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NEW TOUR INVITES VISITORS TO EXPLORE ONE OF CHARLESTON’S HIDDEN GEMS By Mary Hirsch Photos provided by Bulldog Tours

hen it was announced tours were being offered for the first time at historic Magnolia Cemetery, I knew I had to go. Magnolia Cemetery is a 153-acre Charleston treasure comprising of beautiful architecture, greenery and of course, burials. The cemetery’s history began in 1849, founded by Edward C. Jones on the banks of the Cooper River. It was originally named Magnolia Umbra plantation. In fact, the plantation house is still on the grounds and now serves as an office space for the cemetery. Today, there are over 35,000 people buried in Magnolia Cemetery, and while all of the graves have stories to tell, there are a few notable people who have been laid to rest, including past governors of South Carolina Thomas Bennet and William Aiken. Members of powerful Charleston families are also buried there, such as James Shoolbred Gibbes who donated $100,000 to build the Gibbes Museum of Art. You’ll also find grave sites for more than a thousand confederate soldiers, including the eight-member crew of the H.L. Hunley, the Confederate submarine sunk by Union forces in 1864. This, though, is only the beginning of the story behind Magnolia Cemetery. Bulldog Tours is responsible for this new tour and the company is the first to offer an official walking tour of the cemetery. Bulldog

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Tours COO Catherine Wilhoit was elated to be a part of this new tour. “Magnolia Cemetery is one of the most beautiful places in Charleston and not many people know about it,” Wilhoit said. “It’s kind of like a hidden secret.” A hidden gem it is indeed, as I was able to attend the tour and find out for myself just how amazing this cemetery really is. Our tour started by walking past the main house at the front of the cemetery. Andrew explained that in the past it was the plantation owner’s house in what was once called the “city of the silent.” He then took a second to describe what we were about to experience on this 90-minute tour – mostly individual’s stories. This was the perfect precursor to the tour because it really set the tone for the rest of the night as we were reminded that every single person had lived a life worth telling, even if we couldn’t learn about each one in a single tour. We stopped to learn more about a gorgeous Victorian-style, four-sided gravestone with angels sculpted on each side. Andrew explained this gravestone was intended for a whole family, but the daughter felt no relation to the father who was originally buried there, so she was buried elsewhere. This is only the beginning of some of the scandalous and surprising stories

behind many of these graves. Along the tour, we visited the receiving tomb where gravediggers would keep the body or bodies while preparing their graves. Andrew explained that while some were only in there for hours, others could be there for days, weeks, months, and sometimes years. As we moved along, Andrew directed our attention to the main house that now sits across a body of water from where we stood. During one of Bulldog Tour’s first tours, it appeared the house was on fire, but as he ran toward it, the fire disappeared, Andrew explained. Confused, he returned to his tourists who said the fire evaporated out of thin air. With even more curiosity, anticipation and little chill down our spine, we continued the tour. We stopped at a tomb-like structure, amazed at the size and detail. Surprisingly, it was purchased by a wealthy Charleston businessman named William B. Smith who wanted to replicate the style of Egyptian pyramids for his gravesite. Now, the Smith Pyramid Mausoleum holds him and his family in an extravagant display. Finally, we stopped at the graves of the eight-member crew of the H.L. Hunley. Andrew described their trek across the waters of the Charleston Harbor in a history-making mission as they were behind the first successful combat submarine. Their graves sit side-by-side along with confederate flags next to each one in a beautiful display. And after what seemed like no time, the informative and memorable tour had come to an end. Be sure to put this tour on your mustdo list, so you too can discover Charleston’s hidden treasure and learn more about the history of this amazing city. Book a tour at bulldogtours.com or call 843-722-8687.

Experience the haunted side of the USS Yorktown

f you love combining history with the haunted, book the Haunted Yorktown Tour. Come aboard the USS Yorktown in Mount Pleasant to hear the stories of the American Heroes who lived and died aboard this ship – some of them are rumored to still be onboard today. Commissioned in 1943, the USS Yorktown – dubbed “Fighting Lady” – was once manned by more than 3,000 people and designed to fight off enemies all over the globe during World War II. Hear stories of their ultimate sacrifice and heroism as the people that once inhabited this ship dedicated their lives to the service of our country and to this great ship. With the Haunted Yorktown Tour, visitors get exclusive nighttime access to areas of the ship that are closed to the public, including touring the flight deck after dark. Hear tales of maritime superstitions, the ship’s unusual christening and a sailor’s mysterious disappearance. Book the Haunted Yorktown Tour at bulldogtours.com or call 843-722-8687.

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EAT + DRINK

CASUAL DINING Charleston Crab House Downtown: 41 S. Market St. • (Map I:7) 843-795-1963. James Island: 145 Wappoo Creek Dr. • (Area Map) • 843-853-2900 charlestoncrabhouse.com • Serving Fresh Lowcountry seafood everyday! Indoor/patio, casual and family friendly. Visit James Island for waterfront dining or Market Street for rooftop dining. Reservations recommended.

East Bay Deli 334 East Bay St. • Charleston • (Map: I:5) 843-216-5473 • 1120 Oakland Market Road Mount Pleasant • (Map: L:5) • 843-216-5473 9135 University Blvd. • North Charleston 843-553-7374 • 4405 Dorchester Road North Charleston • (Map: W:4) • 843-747-1235 New York-style deli using only quality products like Certified Angus Beef. The varied menu menu comes with many options: soups, chili, both hearty and heart-healthy sandwiches, wraps, giant spuds and desserts.

Oyster House on Market 35 S. Market St. • Charleston • (Map H:7) 843-723-1151 • oysterhouse.menu • Come get fresh with us! Oyster House on Market is the newest restaurant in downtown Charleston! We are a causal fine dining establishment with a focus on oysters and seafood. Open for lunch and dinner daily.

The Shelter Kitchen + Bar 202 Coleman Blvd. • Mount Pleasant • (Map O:2) 843-388-3625 • theshelterkitchenandbar.com One of Mount Pleasant's favorite restaurants and bars located by the hotspot known as Shem Creek. Locally sourced menu serving amazing brunch, lunch, dinner and a great place for a cocktail any time of day on their dog friendly patio.

DRINK + NIGHTLIFE Deep Water Vineyard 6775 Bears Bluff Rd. • Wadmalaw Island (Area Map) • 843-559-6867 deepwatervineyard.com Open: Tue - Sat 10 am - 5 pm • After indulging in a tasting at Charleston's only winery, stay and relax with us - we have many animals, a garden, outdoor games, and 50 acres to explore. It’s a full day of fun for the whole family.

TRAVELER Tidbit Benne Wafers are a uniquely Lowcountry snack. Dating back to Colonial times, the wafers came to America from East Africa during the slave trade era. “Benne” is the Bantu word for “sesame.” Sesame – with its mild, nutty taste – was wildly planted throughout the South. 54 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com july-september 2019

Love these Landmarks Soak up Charleston history at these key attractions

earn the history of Charleston and see some of the city’s most beautiful public spaces by visiting these area landmarks. These attractions are free or low cost. Be sure to download the free Traveler of Charleston mobile app for information and directions to all of these landmarks and more. (travelerofcharleston.com/download-the-app) Angel Oak Estimated to be 300-400 years old, the majestic Angel Oak is worth a visit. The oak tree towers 65 feet high and has a circumference of 25.5 feet. Its area of shade is 17,000 square feet and its largest limb has a circumference of 11.5 feet, and a length of 89 feet. No admission to visit the park and take photos, plus there’s a gift shop and picnic area. Address: 3688 Angel Oak Road, Johns Island

Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge Opened in July 2005, this cable-stayed bridge spanning the Cooper River has become an iconic symbol of Charleston. This architectural marvel has a 2-mile bike/pedestrian lane called Wonders’ Way. Free parking is available on East Bay Street in downtown Charleston and also on the Mount Pleasant side at Memorial Waterfront Park so you can walk the bridge for a bird’s eye view of the Charleston harbor.

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Fort Moultrie Visit Fort Moultrie on Sullivan’s Island for a greater understanding of history from the American Revolution through World War II. Insider tip: Walk the beach there for stunning views of Fort Sumter and the Charleston skyline from a distance. Address: 1214 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island

Fort Sumter Calling all history buffs! Visit the spot where the first shots of the Civil War were fired. Located in the Charleston harbor, Fort Sumter also played key roles in the Revolutionary War against the British and was Charleston’s main defense from seaside attacks. In 1966, the site was listed on the National Register of Historic Places. You can visit the fort via ferry operated by Fort Sumter Tours. Tours depart from the Aquarium Wharf downtown or at Patriots Point in Mount Pleasant. july-september 2019 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 57

Marion Square Spanning more than 6 acres in the heart of downtown Charleston, Marion Square was established as a parade ground for the state arsenal under construction on the north side of the square. It is best known as the former Citadel Green because The Citadel occupied the arsenal from 1843 until 1922, when the military college moved to Charleston’s west side. The name was then changed to Marion Square, in honor of Francis Marion. This city park hosts a number of events and festivals throughout the year. Address: 329 Meeting St., Charleston

Pitt Street Bridge Once a trolley bridge that connected Sullivan’s Island and Mount Pleasant, the Pitt Street Bridge in Mount Pleasant’s Old Village is a beautiful spot for walking and jogging. Fish from the pier or kayak in the Charleston harbor. The park is also a spectacular spot for catching the sunset with the Ravenel Bridge in the background.

Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon The Old Exchange is a must-see for all Charleston visitors. During your visit, you will discover this building’s integral role in our country’s quest for independence and its important service to our young nation. The Old Exchange began its existence as a public building and remains so today. Take a tour (admission: $5-$10) to see various aspects of Charleston history during the Colonial and Revolutionary eras and put into context the people and events of the period. Address: 122 East Bay St., Charleston

Rainbow Row Rainbow Row is the name for a series of colorful historic houses located north of Tradd Street and south of Elliot Street on East Bay Street. It is referred to as Rainbow Row for the pastel colors used to paint the houses. It is a common tourist attraction and is one of the most photographed areas of Charleston. You may hear a number of tales as to why the houses are painted so colorfully. One is so intoxicated sailors coming in from the port could remember which house to bunk in.

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The Battery The Battery is a landmark defensive seawall and promenade in Charleston, famous for its stately antebellum homes. Named for a Civil War coastal defense artillery battery at the site, it stretches along the lower shores of the Charleston peninsula, bordered by the Ashley and Cooper rivers. Address: 2 Murray Blvd., Charleston

St. Michaels Church & Graveyard St. Michael’s Church is the oldest church edifice in the City of Charleston, standing on the site of the first Anglican Church built south of Virginia. In the 1680s, a small wooden church – the first in the new town of Charles Town – was built on this spot for the families of the Church of England and named St. Philip’s. John Rutledge, the first governor of South Carolina and signer of the Declaration of Independence and U.S. Constitution is buried in the graveyard here. Address: 80 Meeting St., Charleston

Riley Waterfront Park Riley Waterfront Park is a 12-acre park along a one-half mile stretch of the Cooper River in Charleston. The public park has a pier with swings and it’s a great place to see some dolphins and snap some photos of the harbor. Be sure to dip your toes in the Pineapple Fountain – another iconic Charleston symbol. Address: 1 Vendue Range, Charleston

Charles Pinckney National Historic Site Visitor Center Charles Pinckney was a principal author and a signer of the U.S. Constitution. This historic site is a 28-acre remnant of Pinckney's Snee Farm, a rice and indigo plantation. Located on site is an 1828 coastal cottage that serves as a museum and visitor center. Exhibits tell the story of Pinckney and his contributions to the United States as a young and emerging nation as well as detailing 18th-century plantation life for free and enslaved people at Snee Farm. Address: 1254 Long Point Road, Mount Pleasant

St. Philips Church & Graveyard Building and graveyard are open to the public Monday to Friday. Established in 1681, St. Philip’s is the oldest religious congregation in South Carolina. The first St. Philip’s Church, a wooden building, was built between 1680 and 1681 at the corner of Broad and Meeting streets on the present day site of St. Michael’s Episcopal Church. It was damaged in a hurricane in 1710 and a new St. Phillip’s Church was begun a few blocks away on Church Street. Address: 146 Church St., Charleston july-september 2019 TRAVELER ofCharleston.com 59

Charleston Area Events july – september 2019 Patriots Point Fireworks Blast JULY 4

Independence Day at Middleton Place – Spend the holiday at the home of a signer of the Declaration of Independence. Readings and interactive demonstrations will take place throughout the day. middletonplace.org

City of North Charleston Celebration – Spend the day at Riverfront Park enjoying music, children’s activities, food trucks, craft vendors and an evening fireworks show. northcharleston.org

Summerville’s Red, White & Blue on the Green – Head to Gahagan Park for music, games, children’s activities and patriotic newspaper hats. Fireworks at dusk. summervilledream.org

Patriots Point Fireworks Blast – Enjoy a professional fireworks display and party with food, drinks and music. Tickets to party on the flight deck of the USS Yorktown will be sold in a limited quantity; no admission charge to watch the fireworks from the lawn (fee for parking). 843-884-2727 | patriotspoint.org

July 4th Fireworks Cruise on the Carolina Queen – Join Charleston Harbor Tours for an evening of live music with Ben Fagan and his band and the best view of the fire works display at Patriots Point. Light snacks and cash bar available. charlestonharbortours.com

Uncle Sam Jam – Enjoy the cool harbor breeze and dance to live beach music on the Mount Pleasant Pier before watching the fireworks show. ccprc.com

History Fair at Magnolia Plantation – Dozens of organizations that promote history in the Lowcountry will participate in this annual event; free with basic admission ticket. magnoliaplantation.com

Sweetgrass Festival – This annual event highlights the contributions of the Gullah people’s history, culture, traditions and their sweetgrass basket art form that originated in Mount Pleasant and continues today. experiencemountpleasant.com

Reggae Nights Summer Concert Series – Enjoy old school roots reggae with Well Charged at James Island County Park. ccprc.com

Ladybug Release – Head to Magnolia Plantation & Gardens when 200,000 ladybugs will be released in the gardens to help control other small, more harmful insects, such as aphids and scale insects. Families and children are invited to help release the ladybugs. magnoliaplantation.com

20-21

Charleston Variety Show – Some of the country’s most talented performers join former Broadway stars and Charleston producers Brad and Jennifer Moranz for this summertime show featuring the best of rock, pop and country. bradandjennifermoranz.com

Moonlight Mixer – Shag the night away under the stars at the Folly Beach Edwin S. Taylor Fishing Pier, where DJ Jim Bowers will be spinning the hottest oldies and beach music all night long. ccprc.com

Charleston Margarita Festival – Sample some of the city’s best margaritas and vote on your favorite at this annual cocktail festival at Brittlebank Park (21+ only). charlestonmargaritafest.com

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AUGUST 2

Reggae Nights Summer Concert Series – Enjoy old school roots reggae with Mystic Vibrations at James Island County Park. ccprc.com

Hot Nights in the Holy City Dinner – Say farewell to summer as the Middleton Place Restaurant presents a menu of sustainably caught seafood dishes paired with local brews in the Pavilion courtyard.

30-9/1

Lowcountry Jazz Festival – Award-winning jazz, soul, R&B and pop artists take the stage at the Gaillard Center. lowcountryjazzfest.com

SEPTEMBER 4-15

Charleston Restaurant Week – Enjoy the world-renowned cuisine of the Lowcountry as participating restaurants offer prix fixe lunch and dinner menus. charlestonrestaurantassociation.com

7-14

Charleston Beer Week – Charleston Beer Week celebrates Charleston's growing beer community, from brewer to bartender, from keg to glass. Join in multiple events involving Charleston’s more than 20 local breweries. charlestonbeerweek.com

Sweet Tea Festival – Head to historic Summerville to enjoy local music, vendors and plenty of sweet tea. summervilledream.org

26-10/6 MOJA Arts Festival – This is a 10-day celebration highlighting the many AfricanAmerican and Caribbean contributions to western world cultures. Named for the Swahili word meaning "one,” this festival includes dance, music, theater and literary arts performances at venues all around Charleston. mojafestival.com

Photo provided by Summerville Journal Scene

Sweet Tea Festival

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

brewery/distillery article. For even more Charleston area events, check our online calendar at travelerofcharleston.com/events.

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

brewery/distillery article. area events, check our online calendar at travelerofcharleston.com/events. For even more Charleston

ONGOING EVENTS Through 8/21 – Enjoy a movie on Folly Beach each Wednesday at sunset (wind and weather permitting). Free and open to the public. Schedule: tidesfollybeach.com Through 9/2 Charleston RiverDogs baseball games – Enjoy a night at Joseph P. Riley Jr. Park with the family. Check the schedule for special events and fireworks after select games. riverdogs.com | 843-577-3647 Through 9/7 “Simply Irresistible” – The faculty of Arden High return for a new year of love and detention. But does Cathy hear wedding bells? It’s an 80’s musical-comedy at Thirty-Four West Theatre Co. 34west.org | 843-901-9343 Through 10/18 – Each Friday, join Fort Sumter Tours for Sunset – at Fort Sumter for a visit to the historic attraction with barbecue dinner on the return trip. fortsumtertours.com Charles Towne Landing special events – Check the website for a complete schedule that includes educational programming, musket and cannon demonstrations. charlestownelanding.travel 2nd Sunday on King Street – On the second Sunday of each month. Street is closed to vehicular traffic from Queen Street North to Calhoun Street. 2ndsundayonkingstreet.com Third Thursdays – Head to historic downtown Summerville from 5-8:30 p.m. every third Thursday as shops stay open later and entertainment fills the historic downtown square. summervilledream.org Charleston Night Market – On Friday and Saturday evenings, enjoy local artists, food vendors and designers in the historic Charleston City Market. thecharlestoncitymarket.com Blues & BBQ Harbor Cruise – Every Thursday night through 11/7 and first Fridays through 11/1; enjoy a barbecue buffet, live blues music and a cruise around the Charleston harbor. charlestonharbortours.com | 843-722-1112 “Black Fedora Comedy Mystery Theatre” – Audience-interactive comic mysteries run most evenings. charlestonmysteries.com | 843-937-6453 Charleston Farmers Market – Each Saturday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. in Marion Square, downtown Charleston. charlestonfarmersmarket.com Mount Pleasant Farmers Market – Each Tuesday from 3:30-7 p.m. at the Market Pavilion on Coleman Boulevard. experiencemountpleasant.com Garden Strolls & Wine Tastings – Wednesdays from Sept. 18-Oct. 30 at Middleton Place. middletonplace.org Sounds of Charleston – Experience the sounds that define Charleston and her unique southern charm as jazz, gospel, Gershwin, Gullah, spirituals and Civil War songs come to life in a concert at the historic Circular Congregational Church. soundofcharleston.com * Event details are subject to change. Please call ahead or check the listed website for confirmation.

For even more Charleston area events, check our online calendar at travelerofcharleston.com/events

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MAPS

Famous Landmarks · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Arthur Ravenel Jr. Bridge, J:1 Battery, G:10 Charleston Museum, G:4 Charleston Place, G:7 Children’s Museum, G:4 Citadel Military College, B:1 College of Charleston, F:6 Dock Street Theatre, G:8 Four Corners of Law, G:8 Gaillard Municipal Auditorium, H:6 Gibbes Museum, G:H King Street Shopping District, G-6:7 Marion Square, G:5 Market Hall & City Market, H:7 Old Exchange & Provost Dungeon, H:9 Old Slave Mart Museum, H:8 Rainbow Row, H:9 South Carolina Aquarium, J:5 St. Philip’s Church, H:8 St. Michael’s Church, G:9 The Powder Magazine, G:8 Visitor Center, G:4 Waterfront Park/Pineapple Fountain, I:8

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K MAPS

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Getting Around Some transportation options for getting around downtown Charleston and the surrounding areas. ■ WATER TAXI: Transports visitors from downtown Charleston (Aquarium Wharf or Waterfront Park) to Mount Pleasant (Patriots Point or Charleston Harbor Resort and Marina). Taxi runs each hour; $12 for allday passes, 3 and under are free. No reservations needed. Call 843-330-2989 for pickup. charlestonwatertaxi.com ■ BUS: The CARTA bus system has regular routes that travel to major destinations. The DASH trolley service is available free of charge if you’re traveling around downtown Charleston. ridecarta.com | 843-724-7420 ■ RICKSHAWS AND PEDICABS: Available in downtown Charleston as are taxi cabs for transportation around the Lowcountry.

■ UBER AND LYFT Ride services are available in the area.

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MAPS

Charleston Area Map

MAPS

Charleston Metro Area Maps 1

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SEE + DO Adventure Sightseeing Bus Tours Audubon Center at Beidler Forest Barrier Island Eco Tours Boone Hall Plantation Bulldog Walking Tours Carriage & Harbor Tour Combo Charleston County Parks Charleston Food Tours Charleston Harbor Tours Charleston Speed Boat Adventures Charleston Strolls Walking Tour Charleston Waterfront Pass Charleston Zipline Adventures Edmondston-Alston House Fort Sumter Tours Ghost & Harbor Combo Tour GrayLine City Bus Tours Harbor Tour by SpiritLine Haunted Yorktown Ghost Tours Isle of Palms Marina Middleton Place Nature Adventures North Charleston Fire Museum Palmetto Carriage Patriots Point Naval Maritime Museum Plantation & Harbor Tour Combo Reel Deal Fishing Charters Sandlapper Water Tours Schooner Pride Sailing Tour Sound of Charleston Spirits of Magnolia Cemetery Tidalwave Water Sports Tour Pass Charleston Water Taxi

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SHOP + SAVOR Dacuba's Fine Jewelry Terrace Oaks Antique Mall

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EAT + DRINK Charleston Crab House Cru Cafe Deep Water Vineyard East Bay Deli Middleton Place Restaurant Oyster House Raw Bar SpiritLine Dinner Cruise The Shelter Kitchen + Bar

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TRAVELER

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of Charleston

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